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diff --git a/old/62659-0.txt b/old/62659-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1ca4260..0000000 --- a/old/62659-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17570 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the -World. Vol. VII. Being the Third of the Thi, by James King - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the World. Vol. VII. Being the Third of the Third Voyage - -Author: James King - -Release Date: July 15, 2020 [EBook #62659] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE THREE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN *** - - - - -Produced by Sonya Schermann and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -When italics were used in the original book, the corresponding text has -been surrounded by _underscores_. Superscripted characters are preceded -by ^. - -Some corrections have been made to the printed text. These are listed in -a second transcriber’s note at the end of the text. - -[Illustration: _Summer and Winter Habitations, Kamtschatka._] - - - - - THE - - THREE - - VOYAGES - - OF - - CAPTAIN JAMES COOK - - ROUND THE WORLD. - - COMPLETE - - In Seven Volumes. - - _WITH MAP AND OTHER PLATES._ - - VOL. VII. - - BEING THE THIRD OF THE THIRD VOYAGE. - - - - - LONDON: - - PRINTED FOR - LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER-ROW. - - 1821. - - - - - CONTENTS - - OF - - _THE SEVENTH VOLUME_. - - - BOOK V. - - Captain King’s Journal of the Transactions on returning to the Sandwich - Islands. - - - CHAP. I. - - DESCRIPTION of Karakakooa Bay.—Vast Concourse of the - Natives.—Power of the Chiefs over the inferior - People.—Visit from Koah, a Priest and Warrior.—The - Morai at Kakooa described.—Ceremonies at the Landing - of Captain Cook.—Observatories erected.—Powerful - Operation of the Taboo.—Method of salting Pork in - tropical Climates.—Society of Priests discovered.— - Their Hospitality and Munificence.—Reception of - Captain Cook.—Artifice of Koah.—Arrival of - Terreeoboo, King of the Island.—Singular Ceremony.— - Visit from the King.—Returned by Captain Cook Page 3 - - - CHAP. II. - - Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives.—Their - Hospitality.—Propensity to Theft.—Description of a - Boxing Match.—Death of one of our Seamen.—Behaviour - of the Priests at his Funeral.—The Wood-work and - Images on the Morai purchased.—The Natives - inquisitive about our Departure.—Their Opinion about - the Design of our Voyage.—Magnificent Presents of - Terreeoboo to Captain Cook.—The Ships leave the - Island.—The Resolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged - to return 20 - - - CHAP. III. - - Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to - Karakakooa Bay.—Theft on board the Discovery, and its - Consequences.—The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew - obliged to quit her.—Captain Cook’s Observations on - the Occasion.—Attempt at the Observatory.—The Cutter - of the Discovery stolen.—Measures taken by Captain - Cook for its Recovery.—Goes on Shore, to invite the - King on board.—The King being stopped by his Wife, - and the Chiefs, a Contest arises.—News arrives of one - of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People.— - Ferment on this Occasion.—One of the Chiefs threatens - Captain Cook, and is shot by him.—General Attack by - the Natives.—Death of Captain Cook.—Account of the - Captain’s Services, and a Sketch of his Character 34 - - - CHAP. IV. - - Transactions at Owhyhee, subsequent to the Death of - Captain Cook.—Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of - Marines.—Dangerous Situation of the Party at the - Morai.—Bravery of one of the Natives.—Consultation - respecting future Measures.—Demand of the body of - Captain Cook.—Evasive and insidious Conduct of Koah, - and the Chiefs.—Insolent Behaviour of the Natives.— - Promotion of Officers.—Arrival of two Priests with - Part of the Body.—Extraordinary Behaviour of two - Boys.—Burning of the Village of Kakooa.—Unfortunate - Destruction of the Dwellings of the Priests.—Recovery - of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure from - Karakakooa Bay 51 - - - CHAP. V. - - Departure from Karakakooa in Search of an Harbour on - the south-east side of Mowee.—Driven to leeward by - the easterly Winds and Current.—Pass the Island of - Tahoorowa.—Description of the south-west side of - Mowee.—Run along the Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to - Woahoo.—Description of the north-east Coast of - Woahoo.—Unsuccessful Attempt to water.—Passage to - Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay.—Dangerous Situation of - the Watering Party on Shore.—Civil Dissensions in the - Islands.—Visit from the contending Chiefs.—Anchor off - Oneeheow.—Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands 78 - - - CHAP. VI. - - General Account of the Sandwich Islands.—Their Number, - Names, and Situation.—OWHYHEE.—Its Extent, and - Division into Districts.—Account of its Coasts, and - the adjacent Country.—Volcanic Appearances.—Snowy - Mountains.—Their Height determined.—Account of a - Journey into the interior Parts of the Country.— - MOWEE.—TAHOOROWA.—MOROTOI.—RANAI.—WOAHOO.—ATOOI.— - ONEEHEOW.—OREEHOUA.—TAHOORA.—Climate.—Winds.— - Currents.—Tides.—Animals and Vegetables.—Astronomical - Observations 93 - - - CHAP. VII. - - General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.—Of - the Inhabitants.—Their Origin.—Persons.—Pernicious - Effects of the Ava.—Numbers.—Disposition and - Manners.—Reasons for supposing them not Cannibals.— - Dress and Ornaments.—Villages and Houses.—Food.— - Occupations and Amusements.—Addicted to Gaming.—Their - extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.—Arts and - Manufactures.—Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.— - Kipparee, or Method of painting Cloth.—Mats.—Fishing - Hooks.—Cordage.—Salt Pans.—Warlike Instruments 115 - - - CHAP. VIII. - - General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.— - Government.—People divided into three Classes.—Power - of Eree-taboo.—Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and - Mowee.—Power of the Chiefs.—State of the inferior - Class.—Punishment of Crimes.—Religion.—Society of - Priests.—The Orono.—Their Idols.—Songs chanted by the - Chiefs, before they drink Ava.—Human Sacrifices.— - Custom of knocking out the fore Teeth.—Notions with - regard to a future State.—Marriages.—Remarkable - Instance of Jealousy.—Funeral Rites 141 - - - BOOK VI. - - Transactions during the Second Expedition to the North, by the Way of - Kamtschatka; and on the return Home, by the Way of Canton and the Cape - of Good Hope. - - - CHAP. I. - - Departure from Oneeheow.—Fruitless Attempt to discover - Modoopapappa.—Course steered for Awatska Bay.— - Occurrences during that Passage.—Sudden Change from - Heat to Cold.—Distress occasioned by the leaking of - the Resolution.—View of the Coast of Kamtschatka.— - Extreme rigour of the Climate.—Lose Sight of the - Discovery.—The Resolution enters the Bay of Awatska.— - Prospect of the Town of St. Peter and St. Paul.—Party - sent Ashore.—Their Reception by the Commanding - Officer of the Port.—Message dispatched to the - Commander at Bolcheretsk.—Arrival of the Discovery.— - Return of the Messengers, from the Commander.— - Extraordinary Mode of Travelling.—Visit from a - Merchant, and a German Servant belonging to the - Commander 156 - - - CHAP. II. - - Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of - Saint Peter and Saint Paul.—A Party set out to visit - the Commander at Bolcheretsk.—Passage up the River - Awatska.—Account of their Reception by the Toion of - Karatchin.—Description of a Kamtschadale Dress.— - Journey on Sledges.—Description of this Mode of - Travelling.—Arrival at Natcheekin.—Account of hot - Springs.—Embark on the Bolchoireka.—Reception at the - Capital.—Generous and hospitable Conduct of the - Commander and the Garrison.—Description of - Bolcheretsk.—Presents from the Commander.—Russian and - Kamtschadale Dancing.—Affecting Departure from - Bolcheretsk.—Return to Saint Peter and Saint Paul’s, - accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the Ships.— - Generosity of the Sailors.—Dispatches sent by Major - Behm to Petersburg.—His Departure and Character 179 - - - CHAP. III. - - Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St. - Peter and St. Paul.—Abundance of Fish.—Death of a - Seaman belonging to the Resolution.—The Russian - Hospital put under the Care of the Ship’s Surgeons.— - Supply of Flour and Cattle.—Celebration of the King’s - Birth-day.—Difficulties in sailing out of the Bay.— - Eruption of a Volcano.—Steer to the northward.— - Cheepoonskoi Noss.—Errors of the Russian Charts.— - Kamtschatskoi Noss.—Olutorskoi Noss.—Tschukotskoi - Noss.—Island of St. Laurence.—View from the same - Point, of the Coasts of Asia and America, and the - Islands of St. Diomede.—Various Attempts to get to - the north, between the two Continents.—Obstructed by - impenetrable Ice.—Sea-horses and white Bears killed.— - Captain Clerke’s Determination, and future Designs 208 - - - CHAP. IV. - - Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the - north-west.—Dangerous Situation of the Discovery.— - Sea-horses killed.—Fresh Obstructions from the Ice.— - Report of Damages received by the Discovery.—Captain - Clerke’s Determination to proceed to the Southward.— - Joy of the Ships’ Crews on that Occasion.—Pass Serdze - Kamen.—Return through Beering’s Straits.—Inquiry into - the Extent of the north-east Coast of Asia.—Reasons - for rejecting Muller’s Map of the Promontory of the - Tschutski.—Reasons for believing the Coast does not - reach a higher Latitude than 70-1/2° north.—General - Observations on the Impracticability of a north-east - or north-west Passage from the Atlantic into the - Pacific Ocean.—Comparative View of the Progress made - in the Years 1778 and 1779.—Remarks on the Sea, and - Sea-coasts, north of Beering’s Straits.—History of - the Voyage resumed.—Pass the Island of St. Laurence.— - The Island of Mednoi.—Death of Captain Clerke.—Short - Account of his Services 233 - - - CHAP. V. - - Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.— - Promotion of Officers.—Funeral of Captain Clerke.— - Damages of the Discovery repaired.—Various other - Occupations of the Ships’ Crews.—Letters from the - Commander.—Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a - Russian Galliot.—Account of an Exile.—Bear-hunting - and Fishing Parties.—Disgrace of the Serjeant.— - Celebration of the King’s Coronation-day, and Visit - from the Commander.—The Serjeant reinstated.—A - Russian Soldier promoted at our Request.—Remarks on - the Discipline of the Russian Army.—Church at - Paratounca.—Method of Bear-hunting.—Farther Account - of the Bears and Kamtschadales.—Inscription to the - Memory of Captain Clerke.—Supply of Cattle.— - Entertainments on the Empress’s Name Day.—Present - from the Commander.—Attempt of a Marine to desert.— - Work out of the Bay.—Nautical and Geographical - Description of Awatska Bay.—Astronomical Tables, and - Observations 258 - - - CHAP. VI. - - General Account of Kamtschatka.—Geographical - Description.—Rivers.—Soil.—Climate.—Volcanoes.—Hot - Springs.—Productions.—Vegetables.—Animals.—Birds.— - Fish 297 - - - CHAP. VII. - - General Account of Kamtschatka continued.—Of the - Inhabitants.—Origin of the Kamtschadales.—Discovered - by the Russians.—Abstract of their History.—Numbers.— - Present State.—Of the Russian Commerce in - Kamtschatka.—Of the Kamtschadale Habitations and - Dress.—Of the Kurile Islands.—The Koreki.—The - Tschutski 326 - - - CHAP. VIII. - - Plan of our future Proceedings.—Course to the - southward, along the Coast of Kamtschatka.—Cape - Lopatka.—Pass the Islands Shoomska and Paramousir.— - Driven to the eastward of the Kuriles.—Singular - Situation with respect to the pretended Discoveries - of former Navigators.—Fruitless Attempts to reach the - Islands north of Japan.—Geographical Conclusions.— - View of the Coast of Japan.—Run along the east side.— - Pass two Japanese Vessels.—Driven off the Coast by - contrary Winds.—Extraordinary Effect of Currents.— - Steer for the Bashees.—Pass large Quantities of - Pumice Stone.—Discover Sulphur Island.—Pass the - Pratas.—Isles of Lema, and Ladron Island.—Chinese - Pilot taken on Board the Resolution.—Journals of the - Officers and Men secured 348 - - - CHAP. IX. - - Working up to Macao.—A Chinese Comprador.—Sent on Shore - to visit the Portuguese Governor.—Effects of the - Intelligence we received from Europe.—Anchor in the - Typa.—Passage up to Canton.—Bocca Tygris.—Wampû.— - Description of a Sampane.—Reception at the English - Factory.—Instance of the suspicious Character of the - Chinese.—Of their Mode of Trading.—Of the City of - Canton.—Its Size.—Population.—Number of Sampanes.— - Military Force.—Of the Streets and Houses.—Visit to a - Chinese.—Return to Macao.—Great Demand for the - Sea-Otter Skins.—Plan of a Voyage for opening a fair - Trade on the Western Coast of America, and - prosecuting further Discoveries in the Neighbourhood - of Japan.—Departure from Macao.—Price of Provisions - in China 380 - - - CHAP. X. - - Leave the Typa.—Orders of the Court of France - respecting Captain Cook.—Resolutions in Consequence - thereof.—Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield Banks.— - Pass Pulo Sopata.—Steer for Pulo Condore.—Anchor at - Pulo Condore.—Transactions during our Stay.—Journey - to the principal Town.—Receive a Visit from a - Mandarin.—Examine his Letters.—Refreshments to be - procured.—Description, and present State of the - Island.—Its Produce.—An Assertion of M. Sonnerat - refuted.—Astronomical and Nautical Observations 405 - - - CHAP. XI. - - Departure from Pulo Condore.—Pass the Straits of - Banca.—View of the Island of Sumatra.—Straits of - Sunda.—Occurrences there.—Description of the Island - of Cracatoa.—Prince’s Island.—Effects of the Climate - of Java.—Run to the Cape of Good Hope.—Transactions - there.—Description of False Bay.—Passage to the - Orkneys.—General Reflections 421 - - - APPENDIX. - - - Vocabulary of the Languages of the Friendly Islands 445 - - Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George’s - Sound 453 - - Vocabulary of the Language of Atooi, one of the - Sandwich Islands 457 - - Table to show the Affinity between the Languages spoken - at Oonalashka and Norton Sound, and those of the - Greenlanders and Esquimaux 461 - - A comparative Table of Numerals, exhibiting the - Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to - prevail in all the Islands of the Eastern Sea, and - derived from that spoken on the Continent of Asia, in _To face_ p. - the Country of the Malayes 462 - - - - - A - - VOYAGE - - TO THE - - PACIFIC OCEAN, - - - TO DETERMINE - - - THE POSITION AND EXTENT OF THE WEST SIDE OF NORTH AMERICA; - ITS DISTANCE FROM ASIA; AND THE PRACTICABILITY - OF A NORTHERN PASSAGE TO EUROPE. - - - PERFORMED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF - - CAPTAINS COOK, CLERKE, AND GORE, - - IN HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY, - - IN THE YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. - - --------------------- - - VOL. III. - - WRITTEN BY CAPTAIN JAMES KING, LL. D. AND F. R. S. - -[Illustration: _Town & Harbour of S^t Peter & S^t Paul in Kamtschatka._] - - - - - A - - VOYAGE - - TO - - THE PACIFIC OCEAN. - - --------------------- - - - - - BOOK V. - -CAPTAIN KING’S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE SANDWICH - ISLANDS. - - - - - CHAP. I. - -DESCRIPTION OF KARAKAKOOA BAY.—VAST CONCOURSE OF THE NATIVES.—POWER OF - THE CHIEFS OVER THE INFERIOR PEOPLE.—VISIT FROM KOAH, A PRIEST AND - WARRIOR.—THE MORAI AT KAKOOA DESCRIBED.—CEREMONIES AT THE LANDING OF - CAPTAIN COOK.—OBSERVATORIES ERECTED.—POWERFUL OPERATION OF THE TABOO.— - METHOD OF SALTING PORK IN TROPICAL CLIMATES.—SOCIETY OF PRIESTS - DISCOVERED.—THEIR HOSPITALITY AND MUNIFICENCE.—RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN - COOK.—ARTIFICE OF KOAH.—ARRIVAL OF TERREEOBOO, KING OF THE ISLAND.— - SINGULAR CEREMONY.—VISIT FROM THE KING.—RETURNED BY CAPTAIN COOK. - - -Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island of Owhyhee, in -a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two -low points of land, at the distance of half a league, and bearing south -south-east and north north-west from each other. On the north point, -which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa; and in the -bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is -another village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa: between -them, runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea shore. On the -south side, the coast, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; -beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread -with cultivated inclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the -habitations of the natives are scattered in great numbers. The shore, -all around the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the -landing very dangerous in rough weather; except at the village of -Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, with a _Morai_, or -burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at the -other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the -ships, and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, we -moored on the north side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, -Kowrowa bearing north-west. - -As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the -bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed -their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and -extravagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships -were soon completely covered with them; and a multitude of women and -boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming round us in -shoals; many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day -playing in the water. - -Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young man, -called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person of great authority. -On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that he was -_Jakanee_[1] to the king of the island, who was at that time engaged on -a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three -or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to -our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to us in the management -of his countrymen, as we had soon occasion to experience. For we had not -been long at anchor, when it was observed that the Discovery had such a -number of people hanging on one side, as occasioned her to heel -considerably: and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds which -continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehensive that she -might suffer some injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who -immediately went to their assistance, cleared the ship of its -incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that surrounded her. - -The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared, from this -incident, to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance of it -happened the same day on board the Resolution; where the crowd being so -great, as to impede the necessary business of the ship, we were obliged -to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, -who had likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we -laboured under being made known, he immediately ordered his countrymen -to quit the vessel; and we were not a little surprized to see them jump -overboard, without a moment’s hesitation; all except one man, who -loitering behind, and showing some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took -him up in his arms, and threw him into the sea. - -Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, and -of countenances remarkably pleasing. Kaneena especially, whose portrait -Mr. Webber has drawn, was one of the finest men I ever saw. He was about -six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with lively, dark -eyes; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. - -It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruize off this -island, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairness and -honesty in their dealings, and had not shown the slightest propensity to -theft; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, because those with -whom we had hitherto held any intercourse, were of the lowest rank, -either servants or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly altered. -The immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every part of the -ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering without risk -of discovery, but our inferiority in number held forth a prospect of -escaping with impunity in case of detection. Another circumstance, to -which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the presence -and encouragement of their chiefs; for generally tracing the booty into -the possession of some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason -to suspect that these depredations were committed at their instigation. - -Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, -Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, we -were told, was a priest, and had been, in his youth, a distinguished -warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure; his eyes -exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous -scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the _ava_. Being led into the -cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over -his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him. -Then stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig, -which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse that lasted -for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently repeated during -our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many circumstances, to be -a sort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed with -red cloth, in the same manner as was done to Captain Cook; and a small -pig was their usual offering to the _Eatooas_. Their speeches, or -prayers, were uttered too with a readiness and volubility that indicated -them to be according to some formulary. - -When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating -plentifully of what was set before him; but, like the rest of the -inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed on -to taste a second time our wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain -Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myself, accompanied him on shore. We -landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands -tipt with dogs’ hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud -voice a short sentence, in which we could only distinguish the word -_Orono_.[2] The crowd, which had been collected on the shore, retired at -our approach; and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying -prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. - -Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Cook, -and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal -island, it will be necessary to describe the _Morai_, situated, as I -have already mentioned, at the south side of the beach at _Kakooa_. It -was a square solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, -and fourteen in height. The top was flat and well paved, and surrounded -by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the sculls of the captives, -sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area, -stood a ruinous old building of wood, connected with the rail on each -side, by a stone wall, which divided the whole space into two parts. On -the side next the country, were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, -supporting an irregular kind of scaffold; on the opposite side, toward -the sea, stood two small houses, with a covered communication. - -We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an easy ascent, -leading from the beach to the north-west corner of the area. At the -entrance, we saw two large wooden images, with features violently -distorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, -rising from the top of their heads; the rest was without form, and -wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with -a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to the images, and after -chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to -that end of the _Morai_, where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of -them were twelve images ranged in a semicircular form, and before the -middle figure, stood a high stand or table, exactly resembling the -_Whatta_[3] of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces -of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and sweet potatoes. -Koah having placed the Captain under this stand, took down the hog, and -held it toward him; and after having a second time addressed him in a -long speech, pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall -on the ground, and led him to the scaffolding, which they began to climb -together, not without great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming -in solemn procession, at the entrance of the top of the _Morai_, ten men -carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a -few paces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves; and Kaireekeea, the -young man above-mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, -carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the Captain, and afterward -offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with the same -ceremony. - -Whilst Captain Cook was aloft, in this awkward situation, swathed round -with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongst the pieces -of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting -sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately. This lasted a -considerable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the -Captain descended together. He then led him to the images before -mentioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, -snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in the -centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be in -greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he prostrated -himself, and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the same; who -suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this -ceremony. - -We were now led back into the other division of the _Morai_, where there -was a space, ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet below the -level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook was seated -between two wooden idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, whilst I was -desired to support the other. At this time, arrived a second procession -of natives, carrying a baked hog, and a pudding, some bread-fruit, -cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea -put himself at their head, and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in the -usual manner, began the same kind of chant as before, his companions -making regular responses. We observed, that after every response, their -parts became gradually shorter, till, toward the close, Kaireekeea’s -consisted of only two or three words, which the rest answered by the -word _Orono_. - -When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter of an hour, the -natives sat down, fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to -peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts; whilst others employed -themselves in brewing the _ava_; which is done, by chewing it in the -same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part of the -kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of -cloth, rubbed with it the Captain’s face, head, hands, arms, and -shoulders. The _ava_ was then handed round, and after we had tasted it, -Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put -it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who -was very cleanly in his person; but Captain Cook, who was served by -Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel; and his -reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the old man, -according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. - -When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an end to -as soon as he decently could, we quitted the _Morai_, after distributing -amongst the people some pieces of iron and other trifles, with which -they seemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the -boats, repeating the same words as before. The people again retired, and -the few that remained, prostrated themselves as we passed along the -shore. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what we had seen, -and extremely well satisfied with the good dispositions of our new -friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies, with which we had been -received, and which, on account of their novelty and singularity, have -been related at length, can only be the subject of conjectures, and -those uncertain and partial: they were, however, without doubt, -expressive of high respect on the part of the natives; and, as far as -related to the person of Captain Cook, they seemed approaching to -adoration. - -The next morning I went on shore with a guard of eight marines, -including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the -observatory in such a situation as might best enable me to superintend -and protect the waterers, and the other working parties that were to be -on shore. As we were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this -purpose, in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready to -show both his power and his good-will, offered to pull down some houses -that would have obstructed our observations. However, we thought it -proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet potatoes -adjoining to the _Morai_, which was readily granted us; and the priests, -to prevent the intrusion of the natives, immediately consecrated the -place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was inclosed. - -This sort of religious interdiction they call _taboo_; a word we heard -often repeated during our stay amongst these islanders, and found to be -of very powerful and extensive operation. A more particular explanation -of it will be given in the general account of these islands, under the -article of religion; at present it is only necessary to observe, that it -procured us even more privacy than we desired. No canoes ever presumed -to land near us; the natives sat on the wall, but none offered to come -within the _tabooed_ space, till he had obtained our permission. But -though the men, at our request, would come across the field with -provisions, yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to -approach us. Presents were tried, but without effect; Pareea and Koah -were tempted to bring them, but in vain; we were invariably answered, -that the _Eatooa_ and Terreeoboo (which was the name of their king) -would kill them. This circumstance afforded no small matter of amusement -to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of -women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them almost every hour -to clear the vessel, in order to have room to do the necessary duties of -the ship. On these occasions, two or three hundred women were frequently -made to jump into the water at once, where they continued swimming and -playing about, till they could again procure admittance. - -From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us to attend -Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of the island, nothing -very material happened on board. The caulkers were set to work on the -sides of the ships, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and -repaired. The salting of hogs for sea-store was also a constant, and one -of the principal objects of Captain Cook’s attention. As the success we -met with in this experiment, during our present voyage, was much more -complete than it had been in any former attempt of the same kind, it may -not be improper to give an account of the detail of the operation. - -It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flesh of animals -by salting, in tropical climates; the progress of putrefaction being so -rapid, as not to allow time for the salt to take (as they express it) -before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of the pickle. -We do not find that experiments relative to this subject have been made -by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In his first -trials, which were made in 1774, during his second voyage to the Pacific -Ocean, the success he met with, though very imperfect, was yet -sufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As the -voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a year -beyond the time for which the ships had been victualled, he was under -the necessity of providing, by some such means, for the subsistence of -the crews, or of relinquishing the further prosecution of his -discoveries. He therefore lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts, -and the event answered his most sanguine expectations. - -The hogs, which we made use of for this purpose, were of various sizes, -weighing from four to twelve stone.[4] The time of slaughtering was -always in the afternoon; and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and -the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight -pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out; and, in the -larger sort, the ribs also. Every piece then being carefully wiped and -examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were -handed to the salters, whilst the flesh remained still warm. After they -had been well rubbed with salt, they were placed in a heap, on a stage -raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with the -heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this situation they remained -till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and -the suspicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of strong -pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if -any piece had not taken the salt, which was readily discovered by the -smell of the pickle, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and -the sound pieces put to fresh pickle. This, however, after the -precautions before used, seldom happened. After six days, they were -taken out, examined for the last time, and being again slightly pressed, -they were packed in barrels, with a thin layer of salt between them. I -brought home with me some barrels of this pork, which was pickled at -Owhyhee in January 1779, and was tasted by several persons in England, -about Christmas 1780, and found perfectly sound and wholesome.[5] - -I shall now return to our transactions on shore at the observatory, -where we had not been long settled, before we discovered, in our -neighbourhood, the habitations of a society of priests, whose regular -attendance at the _Morai_ had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood -round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut -trees, which separated them from the beach and the rest of the village, -and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquainting -Captain Cook with these circumstances, he resolved to pay them a visit; -and as he expected to be received in the same manner as before, he -brought Mr. Webber with him to make a drawing of the ceremony. - -On his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a sacred building -called _Harre-no-Orono_, or the house of _Orono_, and seated before the -entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the same kind with those on -the _Morai_. I was here again made to support one of his arms, and after -wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, -made an offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. The pig was then -strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into the embers, and -after the hair was singed off, it was again presented, with a repetition -of the chanting, in the manner before described. The dead pig was then -held for a short time under the Captain’s nose; after which it was laid, -with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers sat down. The _ava_ -was then brewed, and handed round; a fat hog, ready dressed, was brought -in; and we were fed as before. - -During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain -Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of these priests, who went -before him, giving notice that the _Orono_ had landed, and ordering the -people to prostrate themselves. The same person also constantly -accompanied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a -wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who -were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay -down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the -observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their -appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and presented them -with the usual solemnities. It was on these occasions that some of the -inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an offering -to the _Orono_. When this was granted, they presented the hog -themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances; -whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomed hymns. - -The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to mere -ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received from them, every day, a -constant supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for our -subsistence; and several canoes loaded with provisions were sent to the -ships with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or even -hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents were made with a -regularity, more like the discharge of a religious duty, than the effect -of mere liberality; and when we enquired at whose charge all this -munificence was displayed, we were told, it was at the expence of a -great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and grandfather to -Kaireekeea, who was at that time absent attending the king of the -island. - -As every thing relating to the character and behaviour of this people -must be interesting to the reader, on account of the tragedy that was -afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we had -not always so much reason to be satisfied with the conduct of the -warrior chiefs, or _Earees_, as with that of the priests. In all our -dealings with the former, we found them sufficiently attentive to their -own interests; and besides their habit of stealing, which may admit of -some excuse, from the universality of the practice amongst the islanders -of these seas, they made use of other artifices equally dishonourable. I -shall only mention one instance, in which we discovered, with regret, -our friend Koah to be a party principally concerned. As the chiefs, who -brought us presents of hogs, were always sent back handsomely rewarded, -we had generally a greater supply than we could make use of. On these -occasions, Koah, who never failed in his attendance on us, used to beg -such as we did not want, and they were always given to him. It one day -happened, that a pig was presented us by a man whom Koah himself -introduced as a chief, who was desirous of paying his respects, and we -recollected the pig to be the same that had been given to Koah just -before. This leading us to suspect some trick, we found, on further -enquiry, the pretended chief to be an ordinary person; and on connecting -this with other circumstances, we had reason to suspect, that it was not -the first time we had been the dupes of the like imposition. - -Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we were a good deal -surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to put off from the -shore, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several -hours’ suspense, we learned that the bay was _tabooed_, and all -intercourse with us interdicted, on account of the arrival of -Terreeoboo. As we had not foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews -of both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual supply of -vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by -threats and promises, to induce the natives to come alongside; and as -some of them were at last venturing to put off, a chief was observed -attempting to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over his -head, to make him desist, which had the desired effect, and refreshments -were soon after purchased as usual. In the afternoon, Terreeoboo -arrived, and visited the ships in a private manner, attended only by one -canoe, in which were his wife and children. He staid on board till near -ten o’clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. - -The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by two -others, set out from the village, and paddled toward the ships in great -state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first canoe -was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks -and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers; in the second came -the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethren, with -their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic -size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small feathers of -various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their -eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the -centre; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, -and, together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. -The third canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. As -they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns with -great solemnity; and after paddling round the ships, instead of going on -board, as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach where we -were stationed. - -As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to -receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on -shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted -them into the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when the king -rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the Captain’s -shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, -and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six -other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His -attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, -cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceremony was concluded -by the king’s exchanging names with Captain Cook, which amongst all the -islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of -friendship. A procession of priests, with a venerable old personage at -their head, now appeared, followed by a long train of men leading large -hogs, and others carrying plantains, sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks -and gestures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the -chief of the priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so long -subsisted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped -round Captain Cook’s shoulders, and afterward presented him with a small -pig in the usual form. A seat was then made for him, next to the king, -after which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo -and the chiefs joining in the responses. - -I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the same infirm and -emaciated old man, that came on board the Resolution when we were off -the north-east side of the island of Mowee; and we soon discovered -amongst his attendants most of the persons who at that time had remained -with us all night. Of this number were the two younger sons of the king, -the eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and his nephew Maiha-Maiha, -whom at first we had some difficulty in recollecting, his hair being -plastered over with a dirty brown paste and powder, which was no mean -heightening to the most savage face I ever beheld. - -As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain Cook -carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on -board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect that -could be shown them; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered -cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him. -The ancient Kaoo, and about half a dozen more old chiefs, remained on -shore, and took up their abode at the priests’ houses. During all this -time, not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives either kept -within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. Before the king left -the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and -trade with the ships as usual; but the women, for what reason we could -not learn, still continued under the effects of the _taboo_; that is, -were forbidden to stir from home, or to have any communication with us. - - - - - CHAP. II. - -FARTHER ACCOUNT OF TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES.—THEIR HOSPITALITY.— - PROPENSITY TO THEFT.—DESCRIPTION OF A BOXING MATCH.—DEATH OF ONE OF - OUR SEAMEN.—BEHAVIOUR OF THE PRIESTS AT HIS FUNERAL.—THE WOOD WORK AND - IMAGES ON THE MORAI PURCHASED.—THE NATIVES INQUISITIVE ABOUT OUR - DEPARTURE.—THEIR OPINION ABOUT THE DESIGN OF OUR VOYAGE.—MAGNIFICENT - PRESENTS OF TERREEOBOO TO CAPTAIN COOK.—THE SHIPS LEAVE THE ISLAND.— - THE RESOLUTION DAMAGED IN A GALE, AND OBLIGED TO RETURN. - - -The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having taken away -every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate to trust ourselves -amongst them at all times, and in all situations. The officers of both -ships went daily up the country in small parties, or even singly, and -frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endless to recount -all the instances of kindness and civility which we received upon those -occasions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer -every assistance in their power, and highly gratified if their services -were accepted. Various little arts were practised to attract our notice, -or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before, as we walked -through their villages, and stopped us at every opening, where there was -room to form a group for dancing. At one time, we were invited to accept -a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some other refreshment, under the shade -of their huts; at another, we were seated within a circle of young -women, who exerted all their skill and agility to amuse us with songs -and dances. - -The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality, was, -however, frequently interrupted by that propensity to stealing, which -they have in common with all the other islanders of these seas. This -circumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged us to -have recourse to acts of severity, which we should willingly have -avoided, if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for -them. Some of their most expert swimmers were one day discovered under -the ships, drawing out the filling nails of the sheathing, which they -performed very dexterously by means of a short stick, with a flint stone -fixed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, which endangered -the very existence of the vessels, we at first fired small shot at the -offenders; but they easily got out of our reach by diving under the -ship’s bottom. It was therefore found necessary to make an example, by -flogging one of them on board the Discovery. - -About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both ships, set out on -an excursion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of -examining its natural productions. An account of this journey will be -given in a subsequent part of our narrative. It is, therefore, only -necessary at present to observe, that it afforded Kaoo a fresh -opportunity of showing his attention and generosity. For as soon as he -was informed of their departure, he sent a large supply of provisions -after them, together with orders, that the inhabitants of the country -through which they were to pass, should give them every assistance in -their power. And, to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of his -conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept -the smallest present. After remaining out six days, our officers -returned, without having been able to penetrate above twenty miles into -the island; partly from want of proper guides, and partly from the -impracticability of the country. - -The head of the Resolution’s rudder being found exceedingly shaken, and -most of the pintles either loose or broken, it was unhung, and sent on -shore, on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the -same time, the carpenters were sent into the country, under conduct of -some of Kaoo’s people, to cut planks for the head rail work, which was -also entirely decayed and rotten. - -On the 28th, Captain Clerke, whose ill health confined him, for the most -part, on board, paid Terreeoboo his first visit, at his hut on shore. He -was received with the same formalities as were observed with Captain -Cook; and, on his coming away, though the visit was quite unexpected, he -received a present of thirty large hogs, and as much fruit and roots as -his crew could consume in a week. - -As we had not yet seen any thing of their sports or athletic exercises, -the natives, at the request of some of our officers, entertained us this -evening with a boxing-match. Though these games were much inferior, as -well in point of solemnity and magnificence, as in the skill and powers -of the combatants, to what we had seen exhibited at the Friendly -Islands; yet, as they differed in some particulars, it may not be -improper to give a short account of them. We found a vast concourse of -people assembled on a level spot of ground, at a little distance from -our tents. A long space was left vacant in the midst of them, at the -upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from which -hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of two wild geese, a -few small birds, and bunches of feathers. When the sports were ready to -begin, the signal was given by the judges, and immediately two -combatants appeared. They came forward slowly, lifting up their feet -very high behind, and drawing their hands along the soles. As they -approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot, in a -contemptuous manner, casting several arch looks at the spectators, -straining their muscles, and using a variety of affected gestures. Being -advanced within reach of each other, they stood with both arms held out -straight before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. -They struck, in what appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full -swing of the arm; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary’s -attack by an inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was -quickly decided; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by -accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed his -triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was -intended, a loud laugh among the spectators. He then waited for a second -antagonist; and if again victorious, for a third, till he was, at last, -in his turn defeated. A singular rule observed in these combats is, that -whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person may step in, and -choose either of them for his antagonist, when the other is obliged to -withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each other in this manner, -before the match was settled. When the combat proved longer than usual, -or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally stepped in, and -ended it by putting a stick between the combatants. The same good humour -was preserved throughout, which we before so much admired in the -Friendly Islanders. As these games were given at our desire, we found it -was universally expected, that we should have borne our part in them; -but our people, though much pressed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to -their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the -Friendly Islands. - -This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner’s crew; an event -which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very -rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of his -attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine -twenty-one years; after which he entered as a seaman on board the -Resolution in 1772, and served with Captain Cook in his voyage toward -the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich -hospital, through the Captain’s interest, at the same time with himself; -and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, -he also quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the command -of the present expedition. During the voyage, he had frequently been -subject to slight fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the -bay, where, being sent on shore for a few days, he conceived himself -perfectly recovered, and, at his own desire, returned on board; but the -day following, he had a paralytic stroke, which in two days more carried -him off. - -At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on the _Morai_, -and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our situation -permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spectators, and preserved the -most profound silence and attention, whilst the service was reading. -When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with great -reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and plantains; and, for -three nights afterward, they surrounded it, sacrificing hogs, and -performing their usual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued -till day-break. - -At the head of the grave, we erected a post, and nailed upon it a square -piece of board, on which was inscribed the name of the deceased, his -age, and the day of his death. This they promised not to remove; and we -have no doubt, but that it will be suffered to remain, as long as the -frail materials of which it is made will permit. - -The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain desired me, on the 2d -of February, to treat with the priests, for the purchase of the rail -that surrounded the top of the _Morai_. I must confess I had, at first, -some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive, -that even the bare mention of it might be considered by them as a piece -of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself mistaken. Not the -smallest surprize was expressed at the application, and the wood was -readily given, even without stipulating for any thing in return. Whilst -the sailors were taking it away, I observed one of them carrying off a -carved image; and, on further inquiry, I found that they had conveyed to -the boats the whole[6] semicircle. Though this was done in the presence -of the natives, who had not shown any mark of resentment at it, but had -even assisted them in the removal, I thought it proper to speak to Kaoo -on the subject; who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only -desired that we would restore the centre image I have mentioned before, -which he carried into one of the priest’s houses. - -Terreeoboo, and his chiefs, had, for some days past, been very -inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circumstance had -excited in me a great curiosity to know what opinion this people had -formed of us, and what were their ideas respecting the cause and objects -of our voyage. I took some pains to satisfy myself on these points; but -could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came -from some country where provisions had failed; and that our visit to -them was merely for the purpose of filling our bellies. Indeed, the -meagre appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which -we sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase -and carry off as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to -such a conclusion. To these may be added, a circumstance which puzzled -them exceedingly, our having no women with us; together with our quiet -conduct, and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to see them -stroking the sides, and patting the bellies of the sailors (who were -certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks, during our -short stay in the island), and telling them, partly by signs, and partly -by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would come again -the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able to supply their -wants. We had now been sixteen days in the bay; and if our enormous -consumption of hogs and vegetables be considered, it need not be -wondered, that they should wish to see us take our leave. It is very -probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view in his inquiries, -at present, than a desire of making sufficient preparation for -dismissing us with presents, suitable to the respect and kindness with -which he had received us. For, on our telling him we should leave the -island on the next day but one, we observed, that a sort of proclamation -was immediately made through the villages, to require the people to -bring in their hogs, and vegetables, for the king to present to the -_Orono_ on his departure. - -We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of one -of the natives. He held in his hand an instrument of the sort described -in the last volume[7]; some bits of sea-weed were tied round his neck; -and round each leg, a piece of strong netting, about nine inches deep, -on which a great number of dog’s teeth were loosely fastened in rows. -His style of dancing was entirely burlesque, and accompanied with -strange grimaces, and pantomimical distortions of the face; which, -though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without -much meaning, or expression. Mr. Webber thought it worth his while to -make a drawing of this person, as exhibiting a tolerable specimen of the -natives; the manner in which the _maro_ is tied; the figure of the -instrument before mentioned, and of the ornaments round the legs, which, -at other times, we also saw used by their dancers. - -In the evening, we were again entertained with wrestling and boxing -matches; and we displayed, in return, the few fireworks we had left. -Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration of these -islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our great superiority, -than an exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already described the -extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaee; and though the -present was, in every respect, infinitely inferior, yet the astonishment -of the natives was not less. - -I have before mentioned, that the carpenters from both ships had been -sent up the country to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the -Resolution. This was the third day since their departure; and having -received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for -their safety. We were communicating our apprehensions to old Kaoo, who -appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures -with him for sending after them, when they arrived all safe. They had -been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, before -they met with trees fit for their purpose; and it was this circumstance, -together with the badness of the roads, and the difficulty of bringing -back the timber, which had detained them so long. They spoke in high -terms of their guides, who both supplied them with provisions, and -guarded their tools with the utmost fidelity. - -The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain -Cook and myself to attend him, on the 3d, to the place where Kaoo -resided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of -cloth; a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of -cocoa-nut husks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of -iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little distance -from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables, of every kind, and -near them was a large herd of hogs. At first, we imagined the whole to -be intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea informed me, that it -was a gift, or tribute, from the people of that district to the king; -and, accordingly, as soon as we were seated, they brought all the -bundles, and laid them severally at Terreeoboo’s feet; spreading out the -cloth, and displaying the feathers and iron-ware before him. The king -seemed much pleased with this mark of their duty; and having selected -about a third part of the iron-ware, the same proportion of feathers, -and a few pieces of cloth, these were set aside by themselves; and the -remainder of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were -afterward presented to Captain Cook, and myself. We were astonished at -the value and magnitude of this present, which far exceeded every thing -of the kind we had seen, either at the Friendly or Society Islands. -Boats were immediately sent, to carry them on board; the large hogs were -picked out, to be salted for sea-store; and upwards of thirty smaller -pigs, and the vegetables were divided between the two crews. - -The same day, we quitted the _Morai_, and got the tents and astronomical -instruments on board. The charm of the _taboo_ was now removed; and we -had no sooner left the place, than the natives rushed in and searched -eagerly about, in expectation of finding something of value that we -might have left behind. As I happened to remain the last on shore, and -waited for the return of the boat, several came crowding about me, and -having made me sit down by them, began to lament our separation. It was, -indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit them. And here, I -hope, I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in which I was -principally concerned. Having had the command of the party on shore, -during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of -becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known -to them, than those whose duty required them to be generally on board. -As I had every reason to be satisfied with their kindness in general, so -I cannot too often, nor too particularly, mention the unbounded and -constant friendship of their priests. - -On my part, I spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and -gain their esteem; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, that, -when the time of our departure was made known, I was strongly solicited -to remain behind, not without offers of the most flattering kind. When I -excused myself, by saying that Captain Cook would not give his consent, -they proposed, that I should retire into the mountains; where, they -said, they would conceal me, till after the departure of the ships; and, -on my farther assuring them, that the Captain would not leave the bay -without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they -supposed I was, with a formal request, that I might be left behind. The -Captain, to avoid giving a positive refusal to an offer so kindly -intended, told them, that he could not part with me at that time, but -that he should return to the island next year, and would then endeavour -to settle the matter to their satisfaction. - -Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and sailed out of the bay, -with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of -canoes. Captain Cook’s design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee, -before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with a road -better sheltered than the bay we had just left; and in case of not -succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the south-east part of -Mowee, where the natives informed us we should find an excellent -harbour. - -We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our -progress to the northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great -number of the natives in their canoes; and Terreeoboo gave a fresh proof -of his friendship to Captain Cook, by a large present of hogs and -vegetables, that was sent after him. - -In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, we made -some way to the northward; and in the morning of the 6th, having passed -the westernmost point of the island, we found ourselves abreast of a -deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes that -this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious harbour, as we saw, -to the north-east, several fine streams of water; and the whole had the -appearance of being well sheltered. These observations agreeing with the -accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain Cook, and had changed -his name, out of compliment to us, into Britannee, the pinnace was -hoisted out, and the master, with Britannee for his guide, was sent to -examine the bay, whilst the ships worked up after them. - -In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind that -blew off the land were so violent, as to make it necessary to take in -all the sails, and bring to, under the mizen stay-sail. All the canoes -left us at the beginning of the gale; and Mr. Bligh, on his return, had -the satisfaction of saving an old woman, and two men, whose canoe had -been overset by the violence of the wind, as they were endeavouring to -gain the shore. Besides these distressed people, we had a great many -women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in their hurry, to -shift for themselves. - -The master reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only -village he saw on the north side of the bay, where he was directed to -some wells of water, but found they would by no means answer our -purpose; that he afterward proceeded farther into the bay, which runs -inland to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a very -conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end of the island; -but that instead of meeting with safe anchorage, as Britannee had taught -him to expect, he found the shores low and rocky, and a flat bed of -coral rocks running along the coast, and extending upward of a mile from -the land; on the outside of which, the depth of water was twenty -fathoms, over a sandy bottom; and that, in the mean time, Britannee had -contrived to slip away, being afraid of returning, as we imagined, -because his information had not proved true and successful. - -In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made sail; but -about midnight it blew so violently, as to split both the fore and -main-topsails. On the morning of the 7th, we bent fresh sails, and had -fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by observation, -was 20° 1ʹ north, the west point of the island bearing south, 7° east, -and the north-west point north, 38° east. As we were, at this time, four -or five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, none of -the canoes would venture out, so that our guests were obliged to remain -with us, much indeed to their dissatisfaction; for they were all -sea-sick, and many of them had left young children behind them. - -In the afternoon, though the weather was still squally, we stood in for -the land, and being about three leagues from it, we saw a canoe, with -two men paddling toward us, which we immediately conjectured had been -driven off the shore by the late boisterous weather; and therefore -stopped the ship’s way, in order to take them in. These poor wretches -were so entirely exhausted with fatigue, that had not one of the natives -on board, observing their weakness, jumped into the canoe to their -assistance, they would scarcely have been able to fasten it to the rope -we had thrown out for that purpose. It was with difficulty we got them -up the ship’s side, together with a child, about four years old, which -they had lashed under the thwarts of the canoe, where it had lain with -only its head above water. They told us, they had left the shore the -morning before, and had been, from that time, without food or water. The -usual precautions were taken in giving them victuals, and the child -being committed to the care of one of the women, we found them all next -morning perfectly recovered. - -At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to double reef the -topsails, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at day-break, -we found, that the foremast had again given way, the fishes which were -put on the head, in King George’s or Nootka Sound, on the coast of -America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, as to make it -absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to unstep the -mast. In this difficulty, Captain Cook was for some time in doubt, -whether he should run the chance of meeting with a harbour in the -islands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not so -remarkably commodious, in any respect, but that a better might probably -be expected, both for the purpose of repairing the masts, and for -procuring refreshments, of which, it was imagined, that the -neighbourhood of Karakakooa had been already pretty well drained. On the -other hand, it was considered as too great a risk to leave a place that -was tolerably sheltered, and which, once left, could not be regained, -for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the failure of which might -perhaps have left us without resource. - -We therefore continued standing on toward the land, in order to give the -natives an opportunity of releasing their friends on board from their -confinement; and, at noon, being within a mile of the shore, a few -canoes came off to us, but so crowded with people, that there was not -room in them for any of our guests; we therefore hoisted out the pinnace -to carry them on shore; and the master, who went with them, had -directions to examine the south coasts of the bay for water; but -returned without finding any. - -The winds being variable, and a current setting strong to the northward, -we made but little progress in our return; and at eight o’clock in the -evening of the 9th, it began to blow very hard from the south-east, -which obliged us to close reef the topsails; and at two in the morning -of the 10th, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close in with the -breakers, that lie to the northward of the west point of Owhyhee. We had -just room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired several guns to apprize -the Discovery of the danger. - -In the forenoon, the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came -off to us, from which we learnt, that the late storms had done much -mischief; and that several large canoes had been lost. During the -remainder of the day we kept beating to windward, and, before night, we -were within a mile of the bay; but not choosing to run on, while it was -dark, we stood off and on till day-light next morning, when we dropt -anchor nearly in the same place as before. - - - - - CHAP. III. - -SUSPICIOUS BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES, ON OUR RETURN TO KARAKAKOOA BAY.— - THEFT ON BOARD THE DISCOVERY, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.—THE PINNACE - ATTACKED, AND THE CREW OBLIGED TO QUIT HER.—CAPTAIN COOK’S - OBSERVATIONS ON THE OCCASION.—ATTEMPT AT THE OBSERVATORY.—THE CUTTER - OF THE DISCOVERY STOLEN.—MEASURES TAKEN BY CAPTAIN COOK FOR ITS - RECOVERY.—GOES ON SHORE, TO INVITE THE KING ON BOARD.—THE KING, BEING - STOPPED BY HIS WIFE AND THE CHIEFS, A CONTEST ARISES.—NEWS ARRIVE OF - ONE OF THE CHIEFS BEING KILLED BY ONE OF OUR PEOPLE.—FERMENT ON THIS - OCCASION.—ONE OF THE CHIEFS THREATENS CAPTAIN COOK, AND IS SHOT BY - HIM.—GENERAL ATTACK BY THE NATIVES.—DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK.—ACCOUNT OF - THE CAPTAIN’S SERVICES, AND A SKETCH OF HIS CHARACTER. - - -We were employed the whole of the 11th and part of the 12th, in getting -out the foremast, and sending it with the carpenters, on shore. Besides -the damage which the head of the mast had sustained, we found the heel -exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it, capable of -holding four or five cocoa-nuts. It was not, however, thought necessary -to shorten it; and fortunately, the logs of red toa-wood, which had been -cut at Eimeo, for anchor-stocks, were found fit to replace the sprung -parts of the fishes. As these repairs were likely to take up several -days, Mr. Bayly and myself got the astronomical apparatus on shore, and -pitched our tents on the _Morai_; having with us a guard of a corporal -and six marines. We renewed our friendly correspondence with the -priests, who, for the greater security of the workmen, and their tools, -_tabooed_ the place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it, -as before. The sail-makers were also sent on shore, to repair the -damages which had taken place in their department during the late gales. -They were lodged in a house adjoining to the _Morai_, that was lent us -by the priests. Such were our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed -to the account of those other transactions with the natives, which led, -by degrees, to the fatal catastrophe of the 14th. - -Upon coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our reception very -different from what it had been on our first arrival; no shouts, no -bustle, no confusion; but a solitary bay, with only here and there a -canoe stealing close along the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which -had before operated to so great a degree, might now indeed be supposed -to have ceased; but the hospitable treatment we had invariably met with, -and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us some reason to -expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy, on -our return. - -We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this -extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by the -return of a boat, which had been sent on shore, and brought us word, -that Terreeoboo was absent, and had left the bay under the _taboo_. -Though this account appeared very satisfactory to most of us; yet others -were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by subsequent -events, to imagine, that there was something at this time very -suspicious in the behaviour of the natives; and that the interdiction of -all intercourse with us, on pretence of the king’s absence, was only to -give him time to consult with his chiefs in what manner it might be -proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions were well founded, or the -account given by the natives was the truth, we were never able to -ascertain. For though it is not improbable that our sudden return, for -which they could see no apparent cause, and the necessity of which we -afterward found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might -occasion some alarm; yet the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on -his supposed arrival, the next morning, came immediately to visit -Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the natives to their former -friendly intercourse with us, are strong proofs that they neither meant -nor apprehended any change of conduct. - -In support of this opinion, I may add the account of another accident, -precisely of the same kind, which happened to us on our first visit, the -day before the arrival of the king. A native had sold a hog on board the -Resolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea passing by, -advised the man not to part with the hog without an advanced price. For -this he was sharply spoken to, and pushed away; and the _taboo_ being -soon after laid on the bay, we had at first no doubt, but that it was in -consequence of the offence given to the chief. Both these accidents -serve to show how very difficult it is to draw any certain conclusion -from the actions of people, with whose customs, as well as language, we -are so imperfectly acquainted; at the same time, some idea may be formed -from them of the difficulties, at the first view, perhaps, not very -apparent, which those have to encounter, who, in all their transactions -with these strangers, have to steer their course amidst so much -uncertainty, where a trifling error may be attended with even the most -fatal consequences. However true or false our conjectures may be, things -went on in their usual quiet course, till the afternoon of the 13th. - -Toward the evening of that day, the officer who commanded the -watering-party of the Discovery came to inform me, that several chiefs -had assembled at the well near the beach, driving away the natives whom -he had hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the casks to the -shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought their behaviour -extremely suspicious, and that they meant to give him some farther -disturbance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine along with him, -but suffered him to take only his side-arms. In a short time the officer -returned, and, on his acquainting me that the islanders had armed -themselves with stones and were growing very tumultuous, I went myself -to the spot, attended by a marine, with his musket. Seeing us approach, -they threw away their stones, and, on my speaking to some of the chiefs, -the mob were driven away, and those who chose it, were suffered to -assist in filling the casks. Having left things quiet here, I went to -meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming on shore, in the pinnace. I related -to him what had just passed; and he ordered me, in case of their -beginning to throw stones, or behave insolently, immediately to fire a -ball at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal, to -have the pieces of the sentinels loaded with ball, instead of small -shot. - -Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued fire -of muskets from the Discovery, which we observed to be directed at a -canoe, that we saw paddling toward the shore in great haste, pursued by -one of our small boats. We immediately concluded, that the firing was in -consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him -with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the people as they came -on shore. Accordingly we ran toward the place where we supposed the -canoe would land, but were too late; the people having quitted it, and -made their escape into the country before our arrival. - -We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already restored; -and as we thought it probable, from the circumstances we had at first -observed, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to relinquish -our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of the natives, -which way the people had fled, we followed them till it was near dark, -when judging ourselves to be about three miles from the tents, and -suspecting that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in the -pursuit, were amusing us with false information, we thought it in vain -to continue our search any longer, and returned to the beach. - -During our absence, a difference of a more serious and unpleasant nature -had happened. The officer, who had been sent in the small boat, and was -returning on board with the goods which had been restored, observing -Captain Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, thought it -his duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the shore. -Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving, at the same -moment, from on board the Discovery, claimed his property, with many -protestations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it up, and -being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for Captain -Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea was knocked down by a violent -blow on the head with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the -spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately attacked -our people with such a shower of stones as forced them to retreat with -great precipitation, and swim off to a rock, at some distance from the -shore. The pinnace was immediately ransacked by the islanders; and, but -for the timely interposition of Pareea, who seemed to have recovered -from the blow, and forgot it at the same instant, would soon have been -entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our -people, that they might come and take possession of the pinnace, and -that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out -of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a -midshipman’s cap, and some other trifling articles of the plunder, and, -with much apparent concern at what had happened, asked, if the _Orono_ -would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the -next day? On being assured that he should be well received, he joined -noses (as their custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship, -and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. - -When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he expressed much -uneasiness at it, and as we were returning on board, “I am afraid,” said -he, “that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures; -for,” he added, “they must not be left to imagine that they have gained -an advantage over us.” However, as it was too late to take any steps -this evening, he contented himself with giving orders, that every man -and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the ship. As soon -as this order was executed I returned on shore; and our former -confidence in the natives being now much abated, by the events of the -day, I posted a double guard on the _Morai_, with orders to call me, if -they saw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven o’clock, five -islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of the _Morai_; they -seemed very cautious in approaching us, and, at last, finding themselves -discovered, retired out of sight. About midnight, one of them venturing -up close to the observatory, the sentinel fired over him; on which the -men fled, and we passed the remainder of the night without farther -disturbance. - -Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Resolution for the -time-keeper, and, in my way, was hailed by the Discovery, and informed -that their cutter had been stolen during the night from the buoy where -it was moored. - -When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook -loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I was relating to him what had -happened to us in the night, he interrupted me with some eagerness, and -acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery’s cutter, and with the -preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his usual -practice, whenever any thing of consequence was lost at any of the -islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the principal -_Erees_, on board, and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. -This method, which had been always attended with success, he meant to -pursue on the present occasion; and, at the same time, had given orders -to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, with an -intention of seizing and destroying them, if he could not recover the -cutter by peaceable means. - -Accordingly the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, were -stationed across the bay; and, before I left the ship, some great guns -had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempting to make their -escape. - -It was between seven and eight o’clock when we quitted the ship -together; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips and nine -marines with him; and myself in the small boat. The last orders I -received from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our side -of the bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt; to keep my people -together; and to be on my guard. We then parted; the captain went toward -Kowrowa, where the king resided; and I proceeded to the beach. My first -care, on going ashore, was to give strict orders to the marines to -remain within their tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to -quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo, and -the priests, and explained to them, as well as I could, the object of -the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, -that they had already heard of the cutter’s being stolen, and I assured -them, that though Captain Cook was resolved to recover it, and to punish -the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village -on our side, need not be under the smallest apprehension of suffering -any evil from us. I desired the priests to explain this to the people, -and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. -Kaoo asked me, with great earnestness, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt? I -assured him, he was not; and both he and the rest of his brethren seemed -much satisfied with this assurance. - -In the mean time, Captain Cook having called off the launch, which was -stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, -proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. -He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the -usual marks of respect; the people prostrating themselves before him, -and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that -there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was to inquire for -Terreeoboo and the two boys, his sons, who had been his constant guests -on board the Resolution. In a short time, the boys returned along with -the natives, who had been sent in search of them, and immediately led -Captain Cook to the house where the king had slept. They found the old -man just awoke from sleep; and after a short conversation about the loss -of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in no -wise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and spend the -day on board the Resolution. To this proposal the king readily -consented, and immediately got up to accompany him. - -Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already in the -pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the water-side, -when an elderly woman called Kaneekabareea, the mother of the boys, and -one of the king’s favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears -and entreaties, besought him not to go on board. At the same time, two -chiefs who came along with her, laid hold of him, and insisting that he -should go no farther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who were -collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably been -alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the appearances of -hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. -In this situation, the lieutenant of marines observing that his men were -huddled close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their -arms, if any occasion should require it, proposed to the captain to draw -them up along the rocks, close to the water’s edge; and the crowd -readily making way for them to pass, they were drawn up in a line, at -the distance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was -sitting. - -All this time the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest -marks of terror and dejection in his countenance. Captain Cook, not -willing to abandon the object for which he had come on shore, continuing -to urge him, in the most pressing manner, to proceed; whilst, on the -other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him, the -chiefs, who stood round him, interposed at first with prayers and -entreaties, but afterward, having recourse to force and violence, -insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Cook, therefore, finding -that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to -think any longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave up -the point; observing to Mr. Phillips, that it would be impossible to -compel him to go on board, without the risk of killing a great number of -the inhabitants. - -Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore had now -failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in -the least danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to -the affair. The boats which had been stationed across the bay, having -fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had -killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the -village where Captain Cook was, just as he had left the king, and was -walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very -conspicuous; the women and children were immediately sent off; and the -men put on their war-mats, and armed themselves with spears and stones. -One of the natives, having in his hands a stone, and a long iron spike -(which they call a _pahooa_), came up to the Captain, flourishing his -weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The -Captain desired him to desist; but the man persisting in his insolence, -he was at length provoked to fire a load of small-shot. The man having -his mat on, which the shot were not able to penetrate, this had no other -effect than to irritate and encourage them. Several stones were thrown -at the marines; and one of the _Erees_ attempted to stab Mr. Phillips -with his _pahooa_, but failed in the attempt, and received from him a -blow with the butt end of his musket. Captain Cook now fired his second -barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. -A general attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered by -a discharge of musketry from the marines, and the people in the boats. -The islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire -with great firmness; and before the marines had time to re-load, they -broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a -scene of the utmost horror and confusion. - -Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their retreat, and -fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy; three more were dangerously -wounded; and the Lieutenant, who had received a stab between the -shoulders with a _pahooa_, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot -the man who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his blow. Our -unfortunate Commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was -standing at the water’s edge, and calling out to the boats to cease -firing, and to pull in. If it be true, as some of those who were present -have imagined, that the marines and boat-men had fired without his -orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any further bloodshed, it -is not improbable that his humanity, on this occasion, proved fatal to -him. For it was remarked, that whilst he faced the natives, none of them -had offered him any violence, but that having turned about, to give his -orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face -into the water. On seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, -and his body was immediately dragged on shore, and surrounded by the -enemy, who snatching the daggers out of each other’s hands, shewed a -savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. - -Thus fell our great and excellent Commander! After a life of so much -distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards -himself, cannot be reckoned premature; since he lived to finish the -great work for which he seems to have been designed; and was rather -removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquisition of glory. -How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long -found their general security in his skill and conduct, and every -consolation, under their hardships, in his tenderness and humanity, it -is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe; much less shall I -attempt to paint the horror with which we were struck, and the universal -dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful and unexpected a -calamity. The reader will not be displeased to turn from so sad a scene, -to the contemplation of his character and virtues, whilst I am paying my -last tribute to the memory of a dear and honoured friend, in a short -history of his life, and public services. - -Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkshire, in the year 1727; -and, at an early age, was put apprentice to a shopkeeper in a -neighbouring village. His natural inclination not having been consulted -on this occasion, he soon quitted the counter from disgust, and bound -himself, for nine years, to the master of a vessel in the coal trade. At -the breaking out of the war in 1755, he entered into the king’s service -on board the Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and -afterward by Sir Hugh Palliser, who soon discovered his merit, and -introduced him on the quarter-deck. - -In the year 1758, we find him master of the Northumberland, the -flag-ship of Lord Colville, who had then the command of the squadron -stationed on the coast of America. It was here, as I have often heard -him say, that, during a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied -himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any other -assistance, than what a few books and his own industry afforded him. At -the same time that he thus found means to cultivate and improve his mind -and to supply the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in -most of the busy and active scenes of the war in America. At the siege -of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of -services of the first importance in the naval department. He piloted the -boats to the attack of Montmorency; conducted the embarkation to the -Heights of Abraham; examined the passage, and laid buoys for the -security of the large ships in proceeding up the river. The courage and -address with which he acquitted himself in these services, gained him -the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who -continued to patronize him during the rest of their lives with the -greatest zeal and affection. At the conclusion of the war, he was -appointed, through the recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh -Palliser, to survey the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coasts of -Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till the year 1767, when -he was fixed on by Sir Edward Hawke, to command an expedition to the -South Seas; for the purpose of observing the transit of _Venus_, and -prosecuting discoveries in that part of the globe. - -From this period, as his services are too well known to require a -recital here, so his reputation has proportionably advanced to a height -too great to be affected by my panegyric. Indeed, he appears to have -been most eminently and peculiarly qualified for this species of -enterprize. The earliest habits of his life, the course of his services, -and the constant application of his mind, all conspired to fit him for -it, and gave him a degree of professional knowledge, which can fall to -the lot of very few. - -The constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable -of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without -difficulty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance in -him was scarcely a virtue; so great was the indifference with which he -submitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind were -of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His -understanding was strong and perspicacious. His judgment, in whatever -related to the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs -were bold and manly; and both in the conception, and in the mode of -execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage -was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable presence of -mind in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. His -temper might perhaps have been justly blamed as subject to hastiness and -passion had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most benevolent -and humane. - -Such were the outlines of Captain Cook’s character; but its most -distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance in the pursuit -of his object, which was not only superior to the opposition of dangers, -and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the want of ordinary -relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, -his eagerness and activity were never in the least abated. No incidental -temptation could detain him for a moment; even those intervals of -recreation, which sometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by -us with a longing, that persons who have experienced the fatigues of -service will readily excuse, were submitted to by him with a certain -impatience, whenever they could not be employed in making further -provision for the more effectual prosecution of his designs. - -It is not necessary, here, to enumerate the instances in which these -qualities were displayed, during the great and important enterprizes in -which he was engaged. I shall content myself with stating the result of -those services, under the two principal heads to which they may be -referred, those of geography and navigation, placing each in a separate -and distinct point of view. - -Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from the labour of a -single man, than geography has done from those of Captain Cook. In his -first voyage to the South Seas, he discovered the Society Islands; -determined the insularity of New Zealand; discovered the straits which -separate the two islands, and are called after his name; and made a -complete survey of both. He afterward explored the eastern coast of New -Holland, hitherto unknown; an extent of twenty-seven degrees of -latitude, or upward of two thousand miles. - -In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem of a southern -continent; having traversed that hemisphere between the latitudes of 40° -and 70°, in such a manner as not to leave a possibility of its -existence, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. -During this voyage he discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in -the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand; the island of Georgia; and an -unknown coast, which he named Sandwich Land, the _thule_ of the Southern -hemisphere; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the -situations of the old, and made several new discoveries. - -But the voyage we are now relating is distinguished above all the rest -by the extent and importance of its discoveries. Besides several smaller -islands in the Southern Pacific, he discovered, to the north of the -equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Islands; which, from -their situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object of -consequence, in the system of European navigation, than any other -discovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had hitherto -remained unknown of the western coast of America, from the latitude of -43° to 70° north, containing an extent of three thousand five hundred -miles; ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of Asia and -America; passed the straits between them, and surveyed the coast, on -each side, to such a height of northern latitude, as to demonstrate the -impracticability of a passage in that hemisphere, from the Atlantic into -the Pacific Ocean, either by an eastern or a western course. In short, -if we except the sea of Amur, and the Japanese Archipelago, which still -remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has completed the hydrography -of the habitable globe. - -As a navigator, his services were not perhaps less splendid; certainly -not less important and meritorious. The method which he discovered, and -so successfully pursued of preserving the health of seamen, forms a new -æra in navigation, and will transmit his name to future ages amongst the -friends and benefactors of mankind. - -Those who are conversant in naval history need not be told at how dear a -rate the advantages which have been sought through the medium of long -voyages at sea have always been purchased. That dreadful disorder which -is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages have marked the tracks of -discoverers with circumstances almost too shocking to relate, must, -without exercising an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of our -seamen, have proved an insuperable obstacle to the prosecution of such -enterprizes. It was reserved for Captain Cook to show the world, by -repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the unusual length -of three or even four years, in unknown regions, and under every change -and rigour of climate, not only without affecting the health, but even -without diminishing the probability of life in the smallest degree. The -method he pursued has been fully explained by himself in a paper which -was read before the Royal Society, in the year 1776[8]; and whatever -improvements the experience of the present voyage has suggested, are -mentioned in their proper places. - -With respect to his professional abilities, I shall leave them to the -judgment of those who are best acquainted with the nature of the -services in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge, that to -have conducted three expeditions of so much danger and difficulty, of so -unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation, with uniform and -invariable success, must have required not only a thorough and accurate -knowledge of his business, but a powerful and comprehensive genius, -fruitful in resources, and equally ready in the application of whatever -the higher and inferior calls of the service required. - -Having given the most faithful account I have been able to collect, both -from my own observation, and the relations of others, of the death of my -ever-honoured friend, and also of his character and services; I shall -now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration of posterity; -accepting, with a melancholy satisfaction, the honour, which the loss of -him hath procured me, of seeing my name joined with his; and of -testifying that affection and respect for his memory, which, whilst he -lived, it was no less my inclination, than my constant study, to show -him. - - - - - CHAP. IV. - -TRANSACTIONS AT OWHYHEE SUBSEQUENT TO THE DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK.—GALLANT - BEHAVIOUR OF THE LIEUTENANT OF MARINES.—DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE - PARTY AT THE MORAI.—BRAVERY OF ONE OF THE NATIVES.—CONSULTATION - RESPECTING FUTURE MEASURES.—DEMAND OF THE BODY OF CAPTAIN COOK.— - EVASIVE AND INSIDIOUS CONDUCT OF KOAH, AND THE CHIEFS.—INSOLENT - BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES.—PROMOTION OF OFFICERS.—ARRIVAL OF TWO - PRIESTS WITH PART OF THE BODY.—EXTRAORDINARY BEHAVIOUR OF TWO BOYS.— - BURNING OF THE VILLAGE OF KAKOOA.—UNFORTUNATE DESTRUCTION OF THE - DWELLINGS OF THE PRIESTS.—RECOVERY OF THE BONES OF CAPTAIN COOK.— - DEPARTURE FROM KARAKAKOOA BAY. - - -It has been already related that four of the marines who attended -Captain Cook were killed by the islanders on the spot. The rest, with -Mr. Philips, their lieutenant, threw themselves into the water, and -escaped, under cover of a smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, a -remarkable instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, -was shown by that officer. For he had scarcely got into the boat, when, -seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in the -water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped -into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself; and after -receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly sent him to -the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him safe off. - -Our people continued for some time to keep up a constant fire from the -boats (which, during the whole transaction, were not more than twenty -yards from the land), in order to afford their unfortunate companions, -if any of them should still remain alive, an opportunity of escaping. -These efforts, seconded by a few guns, that were fired at the same time, -from the Resolution, having forced the natives at last to retire, a -small boat, manned by five of our young midshipmen, pulled toward the -shore, where they saw the bodies, without any signs of life, lying on -the ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, with -so small a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, they -returned to the ships, leaving them in possession of the islanders, -together with ten stands of arms. - -As soon as the general consternation, which the news of this calamity -occasioned throughout both crews, had a little subsided, their attention -was called to our party at the _Morai_, where the mast and sails were on -shore, with a guard of only six marines. It is impossible for me to -describe the emotions of my own mind, during the time these transactions -had been carrying on at the other side of the bay. Being at the distance -only of a short mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could see -distinctly an immense crowd collected on the spot where Captain Cook had -just before landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could -perceive some extraordinary bustle and agitation in the multitude. We -afterward saw the natives flying, the boats retire from the shore, and -passing and repassing, in great stillness, between the ships. I must -confess that my heart soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable -was concerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed, by appearances both -new and threatening. But, besides this, I knew that a long and -uninterrupted course of success, in his transactions with the natives of -these seas, had given the Captain a degree of confidence, that I was -always fearful might, at some unlucky moment, put him too much off his -guard; and I now saw all the dangers to which that confidence might -lead, without receiving much consolation from considering the experience -that had given rise to it. - -My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was, to assure the people, -who were assembled in considerable numbers round the wall of our -consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how to -account for what they had seen and heard, that they should not be -molested; and that, at all events, I was desirous of continuing on -peaceable terms with them. We remained in this posture, till the boats -had returned on board, when Captain Clerke, observing, through his -telescope, that we were surrounded by the natives, and apprehending they -meant to attack us, ordered two four pounders to be fired at them. -Fortunately these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave -the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls broke a -cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party of them were sitting; -and the other shivered a rock, that stood in an exact line with them. As -I had, just before, given them the strongest assurances of their safety, -I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hostility; and, to prevent a -repetition of it, immediately dispatched a boat to acquaint Captain -Clerke, that, at present, I was on the most friendly terms with the -natives; and that, if occasion should hereafter arise for altering my -conduct toward them, I would hoist a jack, as a signal for him to afford -us all the assistance in his power. - -We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience; and after -remaining a quarter of an hour under the most torturing anxiety and -suspense, our fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. -Bligh, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as possible, and to -send the sails, that were repairing, on board. Just at the same moment, -our friend Kaireekeea having also received intelligence of the death of -Captain Cook from a native, who had arrived from the other side of the -bay, came to me with great sorrow and dejection in his countenance, to -inquire if it was true? - -Our situation was, at this time, extremely critical and important. Not -only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of -at least one of the ships, being involved in the same common danger. We -had the mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, on -shore, under the protection of only six marines: their loss would have -been irreparable; and though the natives had not as yet shown the -smallest disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer for -the alteration which the news of the transaction at Kowrowa might -produce. I therefore thought it prudent to dissemble my belief of the -death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage the -report; lest either the fear of our resentment, or the successful -example of their countrymen, might lead them to seize the favourable -opportunity, which at this time offered itself of giving us a second -blow. At the same time I advised him to bring old Kaoo, and the rest of -the priests, into a large house that was close to the _Morai_; partly -out of regard to their safety, in case it should have been found -necessary to proceed to extremities; and partly to have him near us, in -order to make use of his authority with the people, if it could be -instrumental in preserving peace. - -Having placed the marines on the top of the _Morai_, which formed a -strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr. Bligh, -giving him the most positive directions to act entirely on the -defensive, I went on board the Discovery, in order to represent to -Captain Clerke the dangerous situation of our affairs. As soon as I -quitted the spot, the natives began to annoy our people with stones; and -I had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of the -marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where I found things -growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and putting -on their mats; and their numbers increased very fast. I could also -perceive several large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff which -separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, where -the village of Kowrowa is situated. - -They began, at first, to attack us with stones from behind the walls of -their inclosures, and finding no resistance on our part, they soon grew -more daring. A few resolute fellows, having crept along the beach, under -cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the -_Morai_, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the side next -the sea, which was its only accessible part; and were not dislodged, -till after they had stood a considerable number of shot, and seen one of -their party fall. - -The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be particularly -mentioned; for having returned to carry off his companion, amidst the -fire of our whole party, a wound which he received made him quit the -body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being -again wounded, he was obliged a second time to retreat. At this moment I -arrived at the _Morai_, and saw him return the third time, bleeding and -faint; and being informed of what had happened, I forbade the soldiers -to fire, and he was suffered to carry off his friend; which he was just -able to perform, and then fell down himself and expired. - -About this time, a strong reinforcement from both ships having landed, -the natives retreated behind their walls; which giving me access to our -friendly priests, I sent one of them to endeavour to bring their -countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would -desist from throwing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. This -truce was agreed to, and we were suffered to launch the mast, and carry -off the sails, and our astronomical apparatus, unmolested. As soon as we -had quitted the _Morai_, they took possession of it, and some of them -threw a few stones; but without doing us any mischief. - -It was half an hour past eleven o’clock when I got on board the -Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our -future proceedings. The restitution of the boat, and the recovery of the -body of Captain Cook, were the objects which, on all hands, we agreed to -insist on; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps should be -taken, in case the demand of them was not immediately complied with. - -Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured friend, may -be suspected to have had some share in this opinion, yet there were -certainly other reasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had -considerable weight with me. The confidence which their success in -killing our chief, and forcing us to quit the shore, must naturally have -inspired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had obtained -over us the preceding day; would, I had no doubt, encourage them to make -some further dangerous attempts; and the more especially, as they had -little reason, from what they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of -our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this -sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in them. On our side, -such was the condition of the ships, and the state of discipline amongst -us, that, had a vigorous attack been made on us in the night, it would -have been impossible to answer for the consequences. - -In these apprehensions, I was supported by the opinion of most of the -officers on board; and nothing seemed to me so likely to encourage the -natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined to -an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weakness or fear. - -In favour of more conciliatory measures, it was justly urged, that the -mischief was done, and irreparable; that the natives had a strong claim -to our regard, on account of their former friendship and kindness; and -the more especially, as the late melancholy accident did not appear to -have arisen from any premeditated design; that, on the part of -Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to accompany -Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his two sons into -the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of suspicion; that the -conduct of his women and the _Erees_ might easily be accounted for, from -the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook -came on shore, and the hostile preparations in the bay; appearances so -different from the terms of friendship and confidence, in which both -parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently -with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some reason to -imagine would be made, to carry off their king by force, and was -naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and attachment -to their chiefs. - -To these motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were added; -that we were in want of water, and other refreshments; that our foremast -would require six or eight days’ work before it could be stepped; that -the spring was advancing apace; and that the speedy prosecution of our -next northern expedition ought now to be our sole object; that therefore -to engage in a vindictive contest with the inhabitants, might not only -lay us under the imputation of unnecessary cruelty, but would occasion -an unavoidable delay in the equipment of the ships. - -In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and though I was -convinced, that an early display of vigorous resentment would more -effectually have answered every object both of prudence and humanity, I -was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. For -though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their subsequent -opposition to our necessary operations on shore, arising, I have no -doubt, from a misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at last to -have recourse to violence in our own defence; yet I am not so sure that -the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of the world, have -justified the use of force on our part in the first instance. Cautionary -rigour is at all times invidious, and has this additional objection to -it, that the severity of a preventive course, when it best succeeds, -leaves its expediency the least apparent. - -During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting some plan for our -future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept possession -of the shore; and some of them came off in canoes, and had the boldness -to approach within pistol-shot of the ships, and to insult us by various -marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could -restrain the sailors from the use of their arms on these occasions; but -as pacific measures had been resolved on, the canoes were suffered to -return unmolested. - -In pursuance of this plan, it was determined that I should proceed -toward the shore, with the boats of both ships well manned and armed, -with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if possible, to -obtain a conference with some of the chiefs. - -If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and -particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them with our vengeance -in case of a refusal; but, by no means, to fire unless attacked; and not -to land on any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me -before the whole party, and in the most positive manner. - -I left the ships about four o’clock in the afternoon; and, as we -approached the shore, I perceived every indication of a hostile -reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion; the women and -children retiring; the men putting on their war mats, and arming -themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed, that, since -the morning, they had thrown up stone breast-works along the beach, -where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at -that place; and, as soon as we were within reach, they began to throw -stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding, -therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain, -unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence; I ordered -the armed boats to stop, and went on, in the small boat, alone, with a -white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, -I had the satisfaction to find was instantly understood. The women -immediately returned from the side of the hill, whither they had -retired; the men threw off their mats; and all sat down together by the -water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on shore. - -Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, yet -I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. But when -I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether unaccountable, -swimming off toward the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought -it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore received -him into the boat, though armed; a circumstance which did not tend to -lessen my suspicions. I must confess, I had long harboured an -unfavourable opinion of this man. The priests had always told us, that -he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of ours; and the -repeated detections of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the -truth of their representations. Add to all this, the shocking -transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a principal -part, made me feel the utmost horror at finding myself so near him; and -as he came up to me with feigned tears, and embraced me, I was so -distrustful of his intentions, that I could not help taking hold of the -point of the _pahooah_, which he held in his hand, and turning it from -me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook; and -to declare war against them, unless it was instantly restored. He -assured me this should be done as soon as possible; and that he would go -himself for that purpose; and, after begging of me a piece of iron, with -much assurance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped into -the sea, and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were -all friends again. - -We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his return; during which -time, the rest of the boats had approached so near the shore, as to -enter into conversation with a party of the natives, at some distance -from us; by whom they were plainly given to understand, that the body -had been cut to pieces and carried up the country; but of this -circumstance I was not informed till our return to the ships. - -I began now to express some impatience at Koah’s delay; upon which the -chiefs pressed me exceedingly to come on shore; assuring me, that if I -would go myself to Terreeoboo, the body would certainly be restored to -me. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they -attempted, under a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to -decoy our boat among some rocks, where they would have had it in their -power to cut us off from the rest. It was no difficult matter to see -through these artifices; and I was, therefore, strongly inclined to -break off all further communication with them, when a chief came to us, -who was the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of -the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed, when we last left the -bay, intending to take his passage to _Mowee_. He told us, he came from -Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country; but -that it should be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great -deal of sincerity in his manner; and being asked, if he told a -falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is understood -amongst these islanders as the sign of truth; in the use of which they -are very scrupulous. - -As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent Mr. Vancouver -to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had passed; that my opinion -was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were so far from -being sorry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full -of spirits and confidence on account of their late success, and sought -only to gain time, till they could contrive some scheme for getting us -into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return -on board; having first given the natives to understand, that if the body -was not brought the next morning, the town should be destroyed. - -When they saw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us by -the most insulting and contemptuous gestures. Some of our people said, -they could distinguish several of the natives parading about in the -clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and, among them, a chief -brandishing Captain Cook’s hanger, and a woman holding the scabbard. -Indeed, there can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a -mean opinion of our courage; for they could have but little notion of -the motives of humanity that directed it. - -In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I -conceived to be the present temper and disposition of the islanders, the -most effectual measures were taken to guard against any attack they -might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; -additional sentinels were posted on both ships; and guard-boats were -stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from -cutting the cables. During the night we observed a prodigious number of -lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they were removing -their effects back into the country, in consequence of our threats. But -I rather believed them to have been the sacrifices that were performing -on account of the war, in which they imagined themselves about to be -engaged; and most probably the bodies of our slain countrymen were at -that time burning. We afterward saw fires of the same kind, as we passed -the island of Morotoi; and which, we were told by some natives then on -board, were made on account of the war they had declared against a -neighbouring island. And this agrees with what we learned amongst the -Friendly and Society Isles, that, previous to any expedition against an -enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage -of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the night. - -We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by the howlings and -lamentations which were heard on shore: and early the next morning, Koah -came along-side the Resolution, with a present of cloth, and a small -pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before, -that I was supposed by the natives to be the son of Captain Cook; and as -he, in his life-time, had always suffered them to believe it, I was -probably considered as the chief, after his death. As soon as I came on -deck, I questioned him about the body; and, on his returning me nothing -but evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents; and was going to -dismiss him, with some expressions of anger and resentment, had not -Captain Clerke, judging it best, at all events, to keep up the -appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that he should be -treated with the usual respect. - -This treacherous fellow came frequently to us during the course of the -forenoon, with some trifling present or other; and as I always observed -him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I took care he -should see we were well prepared for our defence. - -He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myself, to go on -shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other -chiefs; and assuring us, that every thing might be settled to our -satisfaction, by a personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his -conduct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this -request; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which proved -the entire falsehood of his pretensions. For we were told, that -immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old -king had retired to a cave in the steep part of the mountain, that hangs -over the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, and where -he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords. - -When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his -countrymen, who had been collected by break of day in vast crowds on the -shore, thronged about him with great eagerness, as if to learn the -intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequence of -it. It is very probable, that they expected we should attempt to put our -threats in execution; and they seemed fully resolved to stand their -ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in different -parts of the coast; large parties were seen marching over the hills; -and, in short, appearances were so alarming, that we carried out a -stream anchor, to enable us to haul the ship abreast of the town, in -case of an attack; and stationed boats off the north point of the bay, -to prevent a surprise from that quarter. - -The breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, and -the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned -fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. It -was at last determined, that nothing should be suffered to interfere -with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our departure; but -that we should, nevertheless, continue our negociations for the recovery -of the bodies. - -The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast into -a proper situation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; and in -making the necessary alterations in the commissions of the officers. The -command of the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed -on board the Resolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain of the -Discovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had been with -Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the vacant lieutenancy. During -the whole day, we met with no interruption from the natives; and, at -night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain; and guard-boats -stationed round both ships as before. - -About eight o’clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling -toward the ship; and as soon as it was seen, both the sentinels on deck -fired into it. There were two persons in the canoe, and they immediately -roared out “_Tinnee_” (which was the way in which they pronounced my -name), and said they were friends, and had something for me belonging to -Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at our -feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was -hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the -canoe. One of them was the person, whom I have before mentioned under -the name of the _Taboo_ man, who constantly attended Captain Cook with -the circumstances of ceremony I have already described; and who, though -a man of rank in the island, could scarcely be hindered from performing -for him the lowest offices of a menial servant. After lamenting, with -abundance of tears, the loss of the _Orono_, he told us that he had -brought us a part of his body. He then presented to us a small bundle, -wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm; and it is -impossible to describe the horror which seized us, on finding in it a -piece of human flesh, about nine or ten pounds’ weight. This, he said, -was all that remained of the body; that the rest was cut to pieces, and -burnt; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the -trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo, and the other _Erees_: that -what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, to be -made use of in some religious ceremony; and that he had sent it as a -proof of his innocence and attachment to us. - -This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves, whether they were -cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We first tried, by many indirect -questions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest -of the bodies had been disposed of; and finding them very constant in -one story, that, after the flesh had been cut off, it was all burnt; we -at last put the direct question, Whether they had not ate some of it? -They immediately showed as much horror at the idea, as any European -would have done; and asked, very naturally, if that was the custom -amongst us? They afterward asked us, with great earnestness and apparent -apprehension, “When the _Orono_ would come again? and what he would do -to them on his return?” The same inquiry was frequently made afterward -by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenor of their conduct -toward him, which showed that they considered him as a being of a -superior nature. - -We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning, -but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction should come to the -knowledge of the king, or chiefs, it might be attended with the most -fatal consequences to their whole society; in order to prevent which, -they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the same -precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. They informed us -farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their -countrymen: and, particularly, cautioned us against trusting Koah, who -they said was our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing more -ardently, than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing of -the conchs we had heard in the morning was meant as a challenge. - -We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were -killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were chiefs; and -that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were -unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the -observatory; three of whom were also of the first rank. - -About eleven o’clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution -to desire that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had passed -the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which might alarm -their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the danger of being -discovered. This request was complied with; and we had the satisfaction -to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to land. - -During the remainder of this night, we heard the same loud howling and -lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, we received -another visit from Koah. I must confess, I was a little piqued to find, -that, notwithstanding the most evident marks of treachery in his -conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends the priests, he -should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and to make us at -least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. Indeed our situation was -become extremely awkward and unpromising; none of the purposes for which -this pacific course of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been -in the least forwarded by it. No satisfactory answer whatever had been -given to our demands; we did not seem to be at all advanced toward a -reconciliation with the islanders; they still kept in force on the -shore, as if determined to resist any attempts we might make to land; -and yet the attempt was become absolutely necessary, as the completing -our supply of water would not admit of any longer delay. - -However it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain -Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the -natives, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, an -attack could not have been made without some danger; and that the loss -of a very few men might have been severely felt by us, during the -remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of -our threats, though, on the one hand, it lessened their opinion of our -prowess, had the effect of causing them to disperse, on the other. For -this day about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies -of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of defiance, -marched off over the hills and never appeared afterward. Those, however, -who remained, were not the less daring and insolent. One man had the -audacity to come within musket-shot, a-head of the ship; and, after -slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook’s hat over his -head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting, and encouraging his -boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a -body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put -up with these repeated provocations; and requested me to obtain -permission for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves of the -first fair occasion of revenging the death of their commander. On my -acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for some great -guns to be fired at the natives on shore; and promised the crew, that if -they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next -day, they should then be left at liberty to chastise them. - -It is somewhat remarkable, that, before we could bring our guns to bear, -the islanders had suspected our intentions, from the stir they saw in -the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were -therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random; notwithstanding -which, our shot produced all the effects that could have been desired. -For, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, with extreme haste, -and, on his arrival, we learned that some people had been killed, and -amongst the rest Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, and a near relation of -the king.[9] - -Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from the _Morai_ -toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand; and after they -had approached pretty near, they began to chant a song, in a very solemn -manner: the subject of which, from their often mentioning the word -_Orono_, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we -concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive -strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which -time they remained in the water, they went on board the Discovery, and -delivered their spears; and, after making a short stay, returned on -shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were -never able to learn. - -At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the -ships; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had visited us -the night before, came off again. They assured us, that though the -effects of our great guns this afternoon had terrified the chiefs -exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile intentions, -and advised us to be on our guard. - -The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water; -and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover that -service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests had sent -us was not without foundation; and that the natives were resolved to -take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without -much risk. - -Throughout all this group of islands, the villages for the most part are -situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is inclosed with stone -walls about three feet high. These, we at first imagined, were intended -for the division of property; but we now discovered, that they served, -and probably were principally designed, for a defence against invasion. -They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in -shifting them, with great quickness, to such situations, as the -direction of the attack may require. In the sides of the mountain, which -hangs over the bay, they have also little holes, or caves, of -considerable depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the -same kind. From behind both these defences the natives kept perpetually -harassing our waterers with stones; nor could the small force we had on -shore, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to retreat. - -In this exposed situation our people were so taken up in attending to -their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only -one ton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this -service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the -Discovery was ordered to dislodge them, with her great guns; which being -effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molestation. -However, the natives soon after made their appearance again, in their -usual mode of attack; and it was now found absolutely necessary to burn -down some straggling houses, near the wall, behind which they had taken -shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to add, that our people -were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. Something -ought certainly to be allowed to their resentment of the repeated -insults, and contemptuous behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural -desire of revenging the loss of their commander. But, at the same time, -their conduct served strongly to convince me, that the utmost precaution -is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, the discretionary use -of arms, in the hands of private seamen, or soldiers, on such occasions. -The rigour of discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their -force is kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough -to conceive, that whatever they have the power, they have also the right -to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they -are accustomed to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the -only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that -what they can do with impunity, they may do with justice and honour. So -that the feelings of humanity, which are inseparable from us all, and -that generosity toward an unresisting enemy, which, at other times, is -the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints to the -exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire they naturally have of -showing their own independence and power. - -I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to burn only a few -straggling huts, which afforded shelter to the natives. We were -therefore a good deal surprized to see the whole village on fire; and -before a boat that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief could -reach the shore, the houses of our old and constant friends the priests -were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me -on board this day. The priests had always been under my protection; and, -unluckily, the officers who were then on duty, having been seldom on -shore at the _Morai_, were not much acquainted with the circumstances of -the place. Had I been present myself, I might probably have been the -means of saving their little society from destruction. - -Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape from the -flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought -them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us -all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was shot at by one of -the marines. The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw -from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before -described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage -and fierceness; till at last, after having kept two of our people at bay -for a considerable time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this -accident, that first brought us acquainted with the use of these -caverns. - -At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on -board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never saw -horror so strongly pictured as in the face of this man, nor so violent a -transition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told he might -go away in safety. He showed us he did not want gratitude, as he -frequently afterward returned with presents of provisions; and also did -us other services. - -Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down the hill, a -man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, -green boughs, plantains, &c. in their hands. I knew not how it happened, -that this peaceful embassy, as soon as they were within reach, received -the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not stop them. They -continued their procession; and the officer on duty came up in time to -prevent a second discharge. As they approached nearer, it was found to -be our much-esteemed friend Kaireekeea, who had fled on our first -setting fire to the village, and had now returned, and desired to be -sent on board the Resolution. - -When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We -endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of -setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his -brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with -us on our want of friendship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it -was not till now that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had -done them. He told us, that, relying on the promises I had made them, -and on the assurances they had afterward received from the men, who had -brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their -effects back into the country, with the rest of the inhabitants, but had -put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had -collected from us, into a house close to the _Morai_, where they had the -mortification to see it all set on fire by ourselves. - -On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on the -deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great -earnestness, that they might be thrown overboard. This request Captain -Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with. - -In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no -farther interruption. We passed a gloomy night; the cries and -lamentations we heard on shore being far more dreadful than ever. Our -only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occasion in future -for a repetition of such severities. - -It is very extraordinary, that, amidst all these disturbances, the women -of the island, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor -discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their -friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of -them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire the -sight, and frequently cried out, that it was _maitai_, or very fine. - -The next morning Koah came off as usual to the ships. As there existed -no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to -have my own way. When he approached toward the side of the ship, singing -his song, and offering me a hog, and some plantains, I ordered him to -keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook’s -bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of -promise. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went -immediately on shore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were -pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the young man, who had -been killed the day before, was found this morning, lying at the -entrance of the cave; and some of our people went and threw a mat over -it. Soon after which they saw some men carrying him off on their -shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, a mournful -song. - -The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the want of ability -to punish them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, -desisted from giving us any farther molestation; and, in the evening, a -chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a -man of the very first consequence, came with presents from Terreeoboo to -sue for peace. These presents were received, and he was dismissed with -the same answer which had before been given, that, until the remains of -Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would be granted. We learned -from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies of our people, -together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt; that the limb -bones of the marines had been divided amongst the inferior chiefs; and -that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of in the following manner: -the head to a great chief, called Kahoo-opeon; the hair to Maia-maia; -and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of -the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables; and we also -received two large presents of the same articles from Kaireekeea. - -The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages -which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very -pressing, that one of our officers should go on shore; and, in the mean -time, offered to remain as an hostage on board. This request, however, -it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a promise -of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach, the waterers did not -meet with the least opposition from the natives; who, notwithstanding -our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again, without the smallest -appearance of diffidence or apprehension. - -Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction of getting the -fore-mast stepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty, -and some danger; our ropes being so exceedingly rotten, that the -purchase gave way several times. - -Between ten and eleven o’clock, we saw a great number of people -descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession, -each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, -_taro_, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers -who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and -began to beat their drums, while those who had followed them, advanced -one by one; and, having deposited the presents they had brought, retired -in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long -feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his hands; -and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent -him. - -Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain -Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace, to -receive them; and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we -arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the -captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and -covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward -attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go on -board; probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at -the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook -entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them, -that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the -metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and -the bones that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair upon it -cut short, and the ears adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the -skin of the fore-arms hanging to them; the thigh and leg-bones joined -together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire; -and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the -hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several -places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of -preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the -skull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were -wanting, Eappo told us, had been seized by different chiefs, and that -Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them. - -The next morning, Eappo, and the king’s son, came on board, and brought -with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook; the barrels of his gun, -his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great -pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself were -most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the most -convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been prevented -from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our -enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs -we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The -cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea’s people; very probably in -revenge for the blow that had been given him; and that it had broken up -the next day. The arms of the marines, which we had also demanded, he -assured us, had been carried off by the common people, and were -irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone having been preserved, as -belonging to Terreeoboo and the _Erees_. - -Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and -unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to _taboo_ all -the bay; and, in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, -and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the -usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion, I leave -the world to conceive; those who were present know, that it is not in my -power to express them. - -During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the -bay; the _taboo_, which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our -request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We -assured him, that we were now entirely satisfied; and that, as the -_Orono_ was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with -him. We afterward desired him to take off the _taboo_, and to make it -known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The ships -were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, -expressing great sorrow at what happened, and their satisfaction at our -reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not visit us, sent -presents of large hogs, and other provisions. Amongst the rest came the -old treacherous Koah, but was refused admittance. - -As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke imagining that -if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward -before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About -eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives; and Eappo, and the -friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately -weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the -shore in great numbers; and, as we passed along, received our last -farewells with every mark of affection and good-will. - - - - - CHAP. V. - -DEPARTURE FROM KARAKAKOOA IN SEARCH OF AN HARBOUR ON THE SOUTH-EAST SIDE - OF MOWEE.—DRIVEN TO LEEWARD BY THE EASTERLY WINDS AND CURRENT.—PASS - THE ISLAND OF TAHOOROWA—DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF MOWEE.— - RUN ALONG THE COASTS OF RANAI AND MOROTOI TO WOAHOO.—DESCRIPTION OF - THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF WOAHOO.—UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO WATER.—PASSAGE - TO ATOOI.—ANCHOR IN WYMOA BAY.—DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE WATERING - PARTY ON SHORE.—CIVIL DISSENSIONS IN THE ISLANDS.—VISIT FROM THE - CONTENDING CHIEFS.—ANCHOR OFF ONEEHEOW.—FINAL DEPARTURE FROM THE - SANDWICH ISLANDS. - - -We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood to -the northward, with an intention of searching for an harbour on the -south-east side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the -natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to the leeward by a -heavy swell from the north-east; and a fresh gale springing up from the -same quarter carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we -tacked, and stood to the south for four hours, in order to keep clear of -the land; and, at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small -barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to the -south-west of Mowee. - -All prospect of examining more nearly the south-east parts of Mowee -being now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the south-east side of -Tahoorowa. As we were steering close round its western extremity, with -an intention of fetching the west side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our -water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks, almost -right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we -again steered to the northward; and, after passing over a bank, with -nineteen fathoms’ water, stood for a passage between Mowee and an island -called Ranai. At noon, the latitude was, by observation, 20° 42ʹ north, -and the longitude 203° 22ʹ east; the southern extremity of Mowee bearing -east south-east, quarter east; the southern extremity of Ranai west -north-west, quarter west; Morotoi, north-west and by north; and the -western extremity of Tahoorowa, south by east, seven miles distant. Our -longitude was accurately deduced from observations made by the -time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by -a great many distances of the moon from the sun and stars, which were -also observed the same day. - -In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the west, -we stood on to the north north-west; but, at sun-set, observing a shoal, -which appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the west point -of Mowee, toward the middle of the passage, and the weather being -unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the south. - -The south-west side of this island, which we now had passed without -being able to get near the shore, forms the same distant view with the -north-east, as seen on our return from the north, in November 1778; the -mountainous parts, which are connected by a low, flat isthmus, appearing -at first like two separate islands. This deception continued on the -south-west side, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the -coast, which, bending inward, to a great depth, formed a fine capacious -bay. The westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned -runs, is made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which -there is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number -of cocoa-nut trees growing about them. - -During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the natives, -who came off to sell provisions; and we soon found, that they had heard -of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were very curious -to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed herself on board -the Resolution, in order to take her passage to Atooi; inquiring eagerly -after Pareea, and some other chiefs, and appearing much shocked at the -death of Kaneena, and his brother. We had, however, the satisfaction to -find, that in whatever light the woman might have represented this -business, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably -civil and submissive. - -The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning of -the 25th, having the wind at east, we ran along the south side of Ranai, -till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till -evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the west -part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from the -time we left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the north-east, changed its -direction to the south-east. - -During the night the wind was again variable; but early next morning, it -settled at east, and blew so fresh as to oblige us to double-reef the -topsails. At seven, on hauling round the west point of Morotoi, we -opened a small bay, at the distance of about two leagues, with a fine -sandy beach; but seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to the -north, in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we had -seen at our first visit, in January 1778. - -At two in the afternoon, we saw the land, bearing west by north, eight -leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it was dark, we again bore -away at day-light on the 27th; and at half past ten, were within a -league of the shore, near the middle of the north-east side of the -island. - -The coast, to the northward, is formed of detached hills, rising -perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken summits; the sides -covered with wood, and the valleys between them of a fertile and well -cultivated appearance. To the southward, we saw an extensive bay, -bounded by a low point of land to the south-east which was covered with -cocoa-nut trees; and off it stood a high insulated rock, about a mile -from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented our seeing -distinctly the land to the southward of the point; we could only -perceive that it was high and broken. - -As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it dangerous to -entangle ourselves with a lee-shore; and therefore did not attempt to -examine the bay, but hauled up, and steered to the northward, in the -direction of the coast. At noon, we were abreast of the north point of -the island, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and -has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and a half. -The latitude, by observation, 21° 50ʹ north, longitude 202° 15ʹ east; -the extreme parts of the island in sight, bearing south south-east, -quarter east, and south-west by south, three-quarters west. - -Between the north point and a distant headland, which we saw to the -south-west, the land bends inward considerably, and appeared likely to -afford a good road. We therefore directed our course along the shore, at -the distance of about a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to -thirteen fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river, -running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in -thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the extreme points of the -bay bearing south-west by west half west, and north-east by east -three-quarters east; and the mouth of the river south-east half east, -one mile distant. In the afternoon, I attended the two captains on -shore, where we found but few of the natives, and those mostly women; -the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree; but -that their chief Perreeoranee, who had stayed behind, would certainly -visit us, as soon as he heard of our arrival. - -We were much disappointed to find the water had a brackish taste for two -hundred yards up the river, owing to the marshy ground through which it -empties itself into the sea. Beyond this, it was perfectly fresh, and -formed a fine running stream, along the side of which I walked, till I -came to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched off to the -right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic mountain. The banks of -this river, and indeed the whole we saw of the north-west part of -Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of the -country is uncommonly beautiful and picturesque. - -As the watering at this place would have been attended with great -labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; but not being able -to land, on account of a reef of coral, which stretched along the shore -to the distance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without -farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we -weighed, and stood to the northward, till day-light on the 28th, when we -bore away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon; and about -sunset, were off its eastern extremity, which shews itself in a fine, -green, flat point. - -It being too late to run for the road, on the south-west side of the -island, where we had been the last year, we passed the night in plying -on and off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in -twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the best bower in -thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head, on the west side of the village, -bearing north-east by north three-quarters east, two miles distant; the -extremes of the island, north-west by west three-quarters west, and -south-east by east half east; the island of Oneheow west by south half -west. In running down to the road, from the south-east point of the -island, we saw the appearance of shoal water, in several places, at a -considerable distance from the land; and when we were about two miles to -the eastward of the anchoring-place and two or three miles from the -shore, we got into four and half fathoms water, although our soundings -had usually been seven and eight fathoms. - -We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several canoes came -along side of us; but we could observe, that they did not welcome us -with the same cordiality in their manner, and satisfaction in their -countenances, as when we were here before. As soon as they got on board, -one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder amongst -their women, of which several persons of both sexes had died. He was -himself afflicted with the venereal disease, and gave a very full and -minute account of the various symptoms with which it had been attended. -As there was not the slightest appearance of that disorder amongst them -on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied, that we were -the authors of this irreparable mischief. - -Our principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost -expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, with the -pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner of the Resolution -accompanied me to trade for provisions; and we had a guard of five -marines. We found a considerable number of people collected upon the -beach, who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as we -had got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former -experience having taught me how difficult it was to repress this -disposition, without having recourse to the authority of their chiefs, I -was very sorry to find, that they were all at another part of the -island. Indeed we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was -with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our -usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading party; -and had no sooner done it, and posted guards to keep off the crowd, than -I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldiers’ muskets, -and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On -my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired; but -returned in a moment with a spear in one hand, and dagger in the other; -and his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying his prowess -with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by the latter’s having given -the man a slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep -without the line. - -I now perceived, that our situation required great circumspection and -management; and accordingly gave the strictest orders, that no one -should fire, nor have recourse to any other act of violence, without -positive commands. As soon as I had given these directions, I was called -to the assistance of the watering party, where I found the natives -equally inclined to mischief. They had demanded from our people a large -hatchet for every cask of water; and this not being complied with, they -would not suffer the sailors to roll them down to the boats. - -I had no sooner joined them, than one of the natives advanced up to me, -with great insolence, and made the same claim. I told him, that, as a -friend, I was very willing to present him with a hatchet, but that I -should certainly carry off the water without paying any thing for it; -and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their business, -and called three marines from the traders to protect them. - -Though this shew of spirit succeeded so far as to make the natives -desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, they still continued to -behave in the most teasing and provoking manner. Whilst some of them, -under pretence of assisting the men in rolling down the casks, turned -them out of their course, and gave them a wrong direction, others were -stealing the hats from off the sailors’ heads, pulling them backward by -their clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd all this time -shouting and laughing, with a strange mixture of childishness and -malice. They afterward found means to steal the cooper’s bucket, and -took away his bag by force; but the objects they were most eager to -possess themselves of, were the muskets of the marines, who were every -instant complaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands. -Though they continued, for the most part, to pay great deference and -respect to me, yet they did not suffer me to escape without contributing -my share to their stock of plunder. One of them came up to me with a -familiar air, and with great management diverted my attention, whilst -another, wrenching the hanger which I held carelessly in my hand, from -me, ran off with it like lightning. - -It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by force; guarding -therefore against its effects, in the best manner we were able, we had -nothing to do but to submit patiently to it. My apprehensions were, -however, a little alarmed, by the information I soon after received from -the serjeant of marines, who told me, that, turning suddenly round, he -saw a man behind me holding a dagger in the position of striking. In -this he might possibly be mistaken; yet our situation was certainly -alarming and critical, and the smallest error on our side might have -been fatal to us. As our people were separated into three small parties, -one at the lake, filling casks, another rolling them down to the shore, -and the third, at some distance, purchasing provisions, it had once -occurred to me, that it might be proper to collect them all together, -and to execute and protect one duty at a time. But on second thoughts, I -judged it more advisable to let them continue as they were. In case of a -real attack, our whole force, however advantageously disposed, could -have made but a poor resistance. On the other hand, I thought it of some -consequence to shew the natives, that we were under no fears; and, what -was still more material, the crowd was, by this means, kept divided, and -a considerable part of them fully employed in bartering provisions. - -It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms, was the -principal cause of their backwardness in attacking us; and indeed the -confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by opposing only five -marines to their whole force, must have raised in them a very high idea -of our superiority. It was our business to keep up this opinion as much -as possible; and in justice to the whole party, I must observe, that no -men could possibly behave better, for the purpose of strengthening these -impressions. Whatever could be taken in jest, they bore with the utmost -temper and patience; and whenever any serious attempt was made to -interrupt them, they opposed it with bold looks and menaces. By this -management, we succeeded so far, as to get all the casks down to the -water side, without any material accident. - -While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving the -opportunity of plundering would soon be over, became every moment more -daring and insolent. On this occasion, I was indebted to the serjeant of -marines for suggesting to me, the advantage that would arise from -sending off his party first into the boats; by which means, the muskets -of the soldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were the objects -the islanders had principally in view, would be removed out of their -reach; and in case of an attack, the marines themselves might be -employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were on shore. - -We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr. Anderson the -gunner, a seaman of the boat’s crew, and myself, remained on shore. As -the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which we were obliged to swim, -I told them to make the best of their way to it, and that I should -follow them. - -With this order I was surprised to find them both refuse to comply; and -the consequence was a contest amongst us who should be the last on -shore. It seems, that some hasty words I had just before used to the -sailor, which he thought reflected on his courage, was the cause of this -odd fancy in him; and the old gunner, finding a point of honour started, -thought he could not well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous -situation we might have remained some time, had not our dispute been -soon settled by the stones that began to fly about us, and by the cries -of the people from the boats, to make haste, as the natives were -following us into the water with clubs and spears. I reached the side of -the pinnace first, and finding Mr. Anderson was at some distance behind, -and not yet entirely out of danger, I called out to the marines to fire -one musket. In the hurry of executing my orders, they fired two; and -when I got into the boat, I saw the natives running away, and one man, -with a woman sitting by him, left behind on the beach. The man made -several attempts to rise, without being able; and it was with much -regret, I perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives soon -after returned, and surrounded the wounded man, brandishing their spears -and daggers at us, with an air of threatening and defiance; but before -we reached the ships, we saw some persons, whom we supposed to be the -chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the shore. - -During our absence, Captain Clerke had been under the greatest anxiety -for our safety. And these apprehensions were considerably increased, -from his having entirely mistaken the drift of the conversation he had -held with some natives who had been on board. The frequent mention of -the name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial -descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude, that the -knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and -that these were what they alluded to; whereas all they had in view was, -to make known to him the wars that had arisen, in consequence of the -goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the slaughter of the -poor goats themselves, during the struggle for the property of them. -Captain Clerke, applying this earnestness of conversation, and these -terrible representations, to our calamitous transactions at Owhyhee, and -to an indication of revenge, kept his telescope fixed upon us, and the -moment he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the boats to be manned -and armed, and to put off to our assistance. - -The next morning I was again ordered on shore with the watering party. -The risk we had run the preceding day, determined Captain Clerke to send -a considerable force from both ships for our guard, amounting in all to -forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now unnecessary; for -we found the beach left entirely to ourselves, and the ground between -the landing place and the lake, _tabooed_, with small white flags. We -concluded, from this appearance, that some of the chiefs had certainly -visited this quarter; and that, not being able to stay, they had kindly -and considerately taken this step, for our greater security and -convenience. We saw several men armed with long spears and daggers on -the other side of the river, on our right; but they did not offer to -give us the least molestation. Their women came over, and sat down on -the banks close by us, and at noon we prevailed on some of the men to -bring hogs and roots for our people, and to dress them for us. As soon -as we had left the beach, they came down to the sea side, and one of -them threw a stone at us; but his conduct seeming to be highly -disapproved of by all the rest, we did not think it proper to show any -resentment. - -The next day we completed our watering without meeting with any material -difficulty. On our return to the ships, we found that several chiefs had -been on board, and had made excuses for the behaviour of their -countrymen, attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels which -subsisted at that time amongst the principal people of the island, and -which had occasioned a general want of order and subordination amongst -them. The government of Atooi was in dispute between Toneoneo, who had -the supreme power when we were here last year, and a boy named Teavee. -They are both, by different fathers, the grandsons of Pereeorannee, king -of Woahoo, who had given the government of Atooi to the former, and that -of Oneeheow to the latter. The quarrel had arisen about the goats we had -left at Oneeheow the last year: the right of property in which was -claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence of that island’s being a dependency -of his. The friends of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both -parties prepared to maintain their pretensions by force; and a few days -before our arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been -worsted. The consequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo -in a much deeper manner than by the mere loss of the objects in dispute; -for the mother of Teavee, having married a second husband, who was a -chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he thought -that the present opportunity was not to be neglected of driving Toneoneo -entirely out of the island, and of advancing his son-in-law to the -government. I have already had occasion to mention that the goats, which -had increased to the number of six, and would probably in a few years -have stocked all these islands, were destroyed in the contest. - -On the 4th, the mother and sister of the young prince and his -father-in-law, with many other chiefs of that party, came on board the -Resolution, and made several curious and valuable presents to Captain -Clerke. Amongst the former, were some fish-hooks, which they assured us -were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo’s father, who had -been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon the island of Woahoo; and a -fly flap, presented to him by the prince’s sister, the handle of which -was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her -father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as we -were told, in performing some religious ceremonies, in consequence of -the victory he had obtained, which were to last twenty days. - -This and the two following days were employed on shore in completing the -Discovery’s water; and the carpenters were busy on board, in caulking -the ships, and in making other preparations for our next cruise. The -natives desisted from giving us any further disturbance; and we procured -from them a plentiful supply of pork and vegetables. - -At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the Discovery, -to be fashioned into the shape of _pahooa_. It was carefully examined -both by the officers and men, and appeared to be the bolt of some large -ship timbers. They were not able to discover to what nation it belonged; -but from the pale colour[10] of the iron, and its not corresponding in -shape to our bolts, they concluded that it certainly was not English. -This led them to make a strict inquiry of the native, when and where he -got it; and if they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a -piece of timber, larger than the cable bit, to which he pointed. This -piece of wood, they farther understood from him, to have been driven -upon their island, since we were here in January 1778. - -On the 7th, we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. When he heard -the dowager princess was in the ship, it was with great difficulty we -could prevail on him to come on board, not from any apprehension that he -appeared to entertain of his safety, but from an unwillingness to see -her. Their meeting was with sulky and lowering looks on both sides. He -staid but a short time, and seemed much dejected; but we remarked, with -some surprise, that the women, both at his coming and going away, -prostrated themselves before him; and that he was treated by all the -natives on board with the respect usually paid to those of his rank. -Indeed, it must appear somewhat extraordinary, that a person, who was at -this time in a state of actual hostility with Teavee’s party, and was -even prepared for another battle, should trust himself almost alone -within the power of his enemies. It is therefore to be observed, that -the civil dissentions, which are very frequent throughout all the South -Sea Islands, seem to be carried on without much acrimony or bloodshed; -and that the deposed governor still continues to enjoy the rank of an -_Eree_, and is left to make use of such means as may arise for the -regaining his lost consequence. But I shall have occasion to speak more -particularly on this subject in the next chapter; in which the best -account will be given, which we were able to collect, of the political -state of those countries. - -On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and sailed toward -Oneeheow; and at three in the afternoon, anchored in twenty fathoms -water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. We moored with the -other anchor in twenty-six fathoms’ water. The high bluff, on the south -end of the island, bore east south-east; the north point of the road, -north half east; and a bluff head to the south of it, north-east by -north. During the night we had a strong gale from the eastward; and, in -the morning of the 9th, found the ship had driven a whole cable’s -length, and brought both anchors almost ahead. We shortened in the best -bower cable; but the wind blowing too fresh to unmoor, we were obliged -to remain this and the two following days, with the anchors still ahead. - -On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was sent to the -north-west side of the island to look for a more convenient place for -anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, close round the -west point of the road where we now lay, which is also the westernmost -point of the island, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen -fathoms’ water, a clear sandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on -which the surf beats, but not so as to hinder landing. The direction of -the points of the bay were north by east, and south by west; and, in -that line, the soundings seven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the north -side of the bay was a small village; and a quarter of a mile to the -eastward, were four small wells of good water; the road to them level, -and fit for rolling casks. Mr. Bligh went afterward so far to the north -as to satisfy himself, that Oreehoua was a separate island from -Oneeheow; and that there was a passage between them; which, before, we -only conjectured to exist. - -In the afternoon we hoisted in all the boats, and made ready for going -to sea in the morning. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.—THEIR NUMBER, NAMES, AND - SITUATION.—OWHYHEE.—ITS EXTENT AND DIVISION INTO DISTRICTS.—ACCOUNT OF - ITS COASTS, AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY.—VOLCANIC APPEARANCES.—SNOWY - MOUNTAINS.—THEIR HEIGHT DETERMINED.—ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY INTO THE - INTERIOR PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.—MOWEE.—TAHOOROWA.—MOROTOI.—RANAI.— - WOAHOO.—ATOOI.—ONEEHEOW.—OREEHOUA.—TAHOORA.—CLIMATE.—WINDS—CURRENTS— - TIDES.—ANIMALS AND VEGETABLES.—ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. - - -As we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, it -will not be improper to introduce here some general account of their -situation and natural history, and of the manners and customs of the -inhabitants. - -This subject has indeed been, in some measure, pre-occupied by persons -far more capable of doing it justice, than I can pretend to be. Had -Captain Cook and Mr. Anderson lived to avail themselves of the -advantages which we enjoyed by a return to these islands, it cannot be -questioned, that the public would have derived much additional -information from the skill and diligence of two such accurate observers. -The reader will therefore lament with me our common misfortune, which -hath deprived him of the labours of such superior abilities, and imposed -on me the task of presenting him with the best supplementary account the -various duties of my station permitted me to furnish. - -This group consists of eleven islands, extending in latitude from 18° -54ʹ to 22° 15ʹ north; and in longitude from 199° 36ʹ to 205° 06ʹ east. -They are called by the natives; 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or -Oranai. 4. Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6. -Morotoi, or Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and -sometimes Kowi.[11] 9. Neeheehow, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehoua, or Reehoua; -and, 11. Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and -Tahoora. Besides the islands above enumerated, we were told by the -Indians, that there is another called Modoopapapa[12], or Komodoopapapa, -lying to the west south-west of Tahoora, which is low and sandy, and -visited only for the purpose of catching turtle and sea-fowl; and, as I -could never learn that they knew of any others, it is probable that none -exist in their neighbourhood. - -They were named by Captain Cook the _Sandwich Islands_, in honour of the -EARL of SANDWICH, under whose administration he had enriched geography -with so many splendid and important discoveries; a tribute justly due to -that noble person for the liberal support these voyages derived from his -power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their success; -for the zeal with which he seconded the views of that great navigator; -and if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the -generous protection, which, since the death of their unfortunate -commander, he has afforded all the officers that served under him. - -Owhyhee, the easternmost, and by much the largest, of these islands, is -of a triangular shape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make -the north, east, and south extremities, of which the northern is in -latitude 20° 17ʹ north, longitude 204° 02ʹ east: the eastern in latitude -19° 34ʹ north, longitude 205° 06ʹ east: and the southern extremity in -latitude 18° 54ʹ north, longitude 204° 15ʹ east. Its greatest length, -which lies in a direction nearly north and south, is 28-1/2 leagues; its -breadth is 24 leagues; and it is about 255 geographical, or 293 English -miles, in circumference. The whole island is divided into six large -districts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie on the north-east side; Apoona -and Kaoo on the south-east; Akona and Kooarra on the west. - -The districts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are separated by a mountain, called -Mouna Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rises in three peaks, -perpetually covered with snow, and may be clearly seen at 40 leagues’ -distance. - -To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt -cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We were once -flattered with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, -in latitude 20° 10ʹ north, and longitude 204° 26ʹ east; but, on doubling -the point, and standing close in, we found it connected by a low valley -with another high head to the north-west. The country rises inland with -a gentle ascent, is intersected by deep narrow glens, or rather chasms, -and appeared to be well cultivated and sprinkled over with a number of -villages. The snowy mountain is very steep and the lower part of it -covered with wood. - -The coast of Aheedoo, which lies to the south of Mouna Kaah, is of a -moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the -country to the north-west, and less broken by ravines. Off these two -districts we cruized for almost a month; and, whenever our distance from -shore would permit it, were sure of being surrounded by canoes laden -with all kinds of refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy sea, and -great swell on this side of the island, and as we had no soundings, and -could observe much foul ground off the shore, we never approached nearer -the land than two or three leagues, excepting on the occasion already -mentioned. - -The coast to the north-east of Apoona, which forms the eastern extremity -of the island, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is -very gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and -bread-fruit trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the finest part of -the island, and we were afterward told that the king had a place of -residence here. At the south-west extremity the hills rise abruptly from -the sea side, leaving but a narrow border of low ground toward the -beach. We were pretty near the shore at this part of the island, and -found the sides of the hills covered with a fine verdure; but the -country seemed to be very thinly inhabited. On doubling the east point -of the island, we came in sight of another snowy mountain, called Mouna -Roa (or the extensive mountain), which continued to be a very -conspicuous object all the while we were sailing along the south-east -side. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners -table-land: the summit was constantly buried in snow, and we once saw -its sides also slightly covered for a considerable way down; but the -greatest part of this disappeared again in a few days. - -According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Mr. Condamine, -from observations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain must be at -least 16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, -or Peak of Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden’s -computation, or 3680, according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The -peaks of Mouna Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they -are entirely covered with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be -less than 18,400 feet. But it is probable that both these mountains may -be considerably higher. For, in insular situations, the effects of the -warm sea air must necessarily remove the line of snow, in equal -latitudes, to a greater height than where the atmosphere is chilled on -all sides by an immense tract of perpetual snow. - -The coast of Kaoo presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary -kind: the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from -the effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is every where -covered with cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, -which seem to mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages -back, from the mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks -like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is composed -of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and -terminating in sharp points. - -Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, there are -many villages scattered over it; and it certainly is much more populous -than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumstance hard to -be accounted for. As these islanders have no cattle, they have -consequently no use for pasturage, and therefore naturally prefer such -ground, as either lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to -the cultivation of yams and plantains. Now, amidst these ruins, there -are many patches of rich soil, which are carefully laid out in -plantations, and the neighbouring sea abounds with a variety of most -excellent fish, with which, as well as with other provisions, we were -always plentifully supplied. Off this part of the coast, we could find -no ground at less than a cable’s length from the shore, with a hundred -and sixty fathoms of line, excepting in a small bight to the eastward of -the south point, where we had regular soundings of fifty and fifty-eight -fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. Before we proceed to the western -districts, it may be necessary to remark, that the whole coast side of -the island, from the northern to the southern extremity, does not afford -the smallest harbour, or shelter for shipping. - -The south-west parts of Akona are in the same state with the adjoining -district of Kaoo; but farther to the north, the country has been -cultivated with great pains, and is extremely populous. - -In this part of the island is situated Karakakooa Bay, which has been -already described. Along the coast nothing is seen but large masses of -slag, and the fragments of black scorched rocks; behind which, the -ground rises gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to -have been formerly covered with loose burnt stones. These the natives -have taken the pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three -feet and upward; which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the soil -amply repays. Here, in a rich ashy mould, they cultivate sweet potatoes, -and the cloth-plant. The fields are inclosed with stone-fences, and are -interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees. On the rising ground beyond -these, the bread-fruit trees are planted, and flourish with the greatest -luxuriance. - -Koaara extends from the westernmost point to the northern extremity of -the island; the whole coast between them forming an extensive bay, -called Toe-yah-yah, which is bounded to the north by two very -conspicuous hills. Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul, corally -ground, extending upward of a mile from the shore, without which the -soundings are regular, with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The -country, as far as the eye could reach, seemed fruitful and well -inhabited, the soil being in appearance of the same kind with the -district of Kaoo; but no fresh water is to be got here. - -I have hitherto confined myself to the coasts of this island, and the -adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being -acquainted with from my own observation. The only account I can give of -the interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party who -set out on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the -country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and -principally of reaching, if possible, the snowy mountains. - -Having procured two natives to serve them as guides, they left the -village about four o’clock in the afternoon, directing their course a -little to the southward of the east. To the distance of three or four -miles from the bay, they found the country as before described; the -hills afterward rose with a more sudden ascent, which brought them to -the extensive plantations, that terminate the view of the country, as -seen from the ships. - -These plantations consist of the[13] tarrow or eddy root, and the sweet -potatoe, with plants of the cloth-tree, neatly set out in rows. The -walls that separate them are made of the loose burnt stones, which are -got in clearing the ground; and, being entirely concealed by -sugar-canes, planted close on each side, make the most beautiful fences -that can be conceived. The party stopped for the night at the second hut -they found amongst the plantations, where they judged themselves to be -about six or seven miles from the ships. They described the prospect -from this spot as very delightful; they saw the ships in the bay before -them; to the left, a continued range of villages, interspersed with -groves of cocoa-nut trees spreading along the sea-shore; a thick wood -stretching out of sight behind them; and to the right, an extent of -ground laid out in regular and well cultivated plantations, as far as -the eye could reach. - -Near this spot, at a distance from any other dwelling, the natives -pointed out to them the residence of an hermit, who, they said, had -formerly been a great chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the -shores of the island, and now never stirred from his cottage. They -prostrated themselves as they approached him, and afterward presented to -him a part of such provisions as they had brought with them. His -behaviour was easy and cheerful; he scarce shewed any marks of -astonishment at the sight of our people, and though pressed to accept -some of our curiosities, he declined the offer, and soon withdrew to his -cottage. He was described as by far the oldest person any of the party -had ever seen, and judged to be, by those who computed his age at the -lowest, upward of 100 years old. - -As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or -twelve miles from the bay, and consequently, that they should reach it -with ease early the next morning, an error into which its great height -had probably led them, they were now much surprised to find the distance -scarce perceptibly diminished. This circumstance, together with the -uninhabited state of the country they were going to enter, made it -necessary to procure a supply of provisions; and for that purpose they -dispatched one of their guides back to the village. Whilst they were -waiting his return, they were joined by some of Kaoo’s servants, whom -that benevolent old man had sent after them, as soon as he heard of -their journey, laden with refreshments, and authorized, as their route -lay through his grounds, to demand and take away whatever they might -have occasion for. - -Our travellers were much astonished to find the cold here so intense; -but having no thermometer with them, could judge of it only by their -feelings; which, from the warm atmosphere they had left, must have been -a very fallacious measure. They found it, however, so cold that they -could get but little sleep, and the natives none at all; both parties -being disturbed the whole night by continued coughing. As they could not -at this time be at any very considerable height, the distance from the -sea being only six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very -moderate ascent, this extraordinary degree of cold must be ascribed to -the easterly wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains. - -Early on the 27th they set out again, and filled their calibashes at an -excellent well, about half a mile from their hut. Having passed the -plantations, they came to a thick wood, which they entered by a path -made for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the -wild or horse plantain, and to catch birds. Their progress now became -very slow, and attended with much labour; the ground being either -swampy, or covered with large stones; the path narrow, and frequently -interrupted by trees lying across it, which it was necessary to climb -over, the thickness of the under-wood on both sides making it impossible -to pass round them. In these woods they observed, at small distances, -pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, which they supposed to be -landmarks for the division of property, as they only met with them where -the wild plantains grew. The trees, which are of the same kind with -those we called the spice-tree at New Holland, were lofty and straight, -and from two to four feet in circumference. - -After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the -mortification to find themselves on a sudden within sight of the sea, -and at no great distance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly -to the southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which -it was their object to reach. Their disappointment was greatly increased -by the uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, since they -could not, at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highest -trees. They, therefore, found themselves obliged to walk back six or -seven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the -natives, and two of their own people, with the small stock that remained -of their provisions. Here they spent the second night; and the air was -so very sharp and so little to the liking of their guides, that, by the -morning, they had all taken themselves off, except one. - -The want of provisions now making it necessary to return to some of the -cultivated parts of the island, they quitted the wood by the same path -they had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were -surrounded by the natives, of whom they purchased a fresh stock of -necessaries; and prevailed upon two of them to supply the place of the -guides that were gone away. Having obtained the best information in -their power, with regard to the direction of their road, the party being -now nine in number, marched along the skirts of the wood for six or -seven miles, and then entered it again by a path that bore to the -eastward. For the first three miles they passed through a forest of -lofty spice-trees, growing on a strong rich loam; at the back of which -they found an equal extent of low shrubby trees, with much thick -underwood, on a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them to a second -forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brown soil, which was again -succeeded by a barren ridge of the same nature with the former. This -alternate succession may, perhaps, afford matter of curious speculation -to naturalists. The only additional circumstance I could learn relating -to it, was, that these ridges appeared, as far as they could be seen, to -run in directions parallel to the sea shore, and to have Mouna Roa for -their centre. - -In passing through the woods, they found many canoes half finished, and -here and there a hut; but saw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated -near three miles into the second wood, they came to two huts, where they -stopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day’s journey, having walked not -less than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had -met with no springs from the time they left the plantation-ground, and -began to suffer much from the violence of their thirst, they were -obliged, before the night came on, to separate into parties, and go in -search of water; and at last found some left by rain in the bottom of an -unfinished canoe; which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them -no unwelcome discovery. In the night, the cold was still more intense -than they had found it before; and, though they had wrapped themselves -up in mats and cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the -two huts, they could yet sleep but very little; and were obliged to walk -about the greatest part of the night. - -Their elevation was now probably pretty considerable, as the ground on -which they had travelled, had been generally on the ascent. - -On the 29th, at day break, they set out, intending to make their last -and utmost effort to reach the snowy mountain; but their spirits were -much depressed, when they found they had expended the miserable pittance -of water, they had found the night before. The path, which extended no -farther than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they -were therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every -now and then climbing up into the highest trees to explore the country -round. At eleven o’clock, they came to a ridge of burnt stones, from the -top of which they saw the snowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve -or fourteen miles from them. - -It was here deliberated whether they should proceed any further, or rest -satisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Roa. The road, ever since -the path ceased, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every moment they -advanced, was growing still more so. The deep chinks, with which the -ground was every where broken, being slightly covered with moss, made -them stumble at almost every step; and the intermediate space was a -surface of loose burnt stones, which broke under their feet like -potsherds. They threw stones into several of these chinks; which, by the -noise they made, seemed to fall to a considerable depth, and the ground -sounded hollow under their feet. Besides these discouraging -circumstances, they found their guides so averse to going on, that they -believed, whatever their own determinations might have been, they could -not have prevailed on them to remain out another night. They, therefore, -at last agreed to return to the ships, after taking a view of the -country from the highest trees which the place afforded. From this -elevation they saw themselves surrounded on all sides with wood toward -the sea; they could not distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the -water; and between them and the snowy mountain, was a valley about seven -or eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill -of a moderate size. - -They rested this night at a hut in the second wood, and on the 30th, -before noon, they had got clear of the first, and found themselves about -nine miles to the north-east of the ships, toward which they directed -their march through the plantations. As they passed along, they did not -observe a single spot of ground that was capable of improvement, left -unplanted; and, indeed, it appeared, from their account, hardly possible -for the country to be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes -of the inhabitants, or made to yield them a larger supply of necessaries -for their subsistence. They were surprised to meet with several fields -of hay; and on inquiring to what uses it was applied, were told it was -designed to cover the young tarrow grounds, in order to preserve them -from being scorched by the sun. They saw a few scattered huts amongst -the plantations, which served for occasional shelter to the labourers; -but no villages at a greater distance than four or five miles from the -sea. Near one of them, about four miles from the bay, they found a cave -forty fathoms long, three broad, and of the same height. It was open at -both ends; the sides were fluted, as if wrought with a chissel, and the -surface glazed over, probably by the action of fire. - -Having given this account of the most material circumstances that -occurred on the expedition to the snowy mountain, I shall now return to -the other islands that remain to be described. - -The island next in size, and nearest in situation, to Owhyhee, is MOWEE; -which lies at the distance of eight leagues north north-west from the -former, and is 140 geographical miles in circumference. A low isthmus -divides it into two circular peninsulas, of which that to the east is -called Whamadooa, and is double the size of the western peninsula, -called Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rise to an exceeding great -height, having been seen by us at the distance of upward of thirty -leagues. The northern shores, like those of Owhyhee, afford no -soundings; and the country presents the same appearance of verdure and -fertility. To the south-east, between this and the adjacent isles, we -had regular depths, with a hundred and fifty fathoms, with a sandy -bottom. From the west point, which is low, runs a shoal, stretching out -toward Ranai, to a considerable distance; and to the southward of this -is a fine spacious bay, with a sandy beach, shaded with cocoa-nut trees. -It is probable that good anchorage might be found here, with shelter -from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a convenient place -for landing. The country behind presents a most romantic appearance. The -hills rise almost perpendicularly, in a great variety of peaked forms; -and their steep sides, and the deep chasms between them, are covered -with trees, amongst which those of the bread-fruit were observed -particularly to abound. The tops of these hills are entirely bare, and -of a reddish brown colour. We were informed by the natives, that there -is an harbour to the southward of the east point, which they affirmed to -be superior to that of Karakakooa; and we were also told, that, on the -north-west side, there was another harbour, called Keepoo-keepoo. - -Tahoorowa is a small island lying off the south-west part of Mowee, from -which it is distant three leagues. This island is destitute of wood, and -the soil seems to be sandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee, lies -the small uninhabited island Morrotinnee. - -Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the west -north-west. The south-western coast, which was the only part near which -we approached, is very low; but the land rises backward to a -considerable height; and, at the distance from which we saw it, appeared -to be entirely without wood. Its produce, we were told, consists chiefly -of yams. It may, probably, have fresh water; and, on the south and west -sides, the coast forms several bays, that promise good shelter from the -trade winds. - -Ranai is about three leagues distant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to -the south-west of the passage between these islands. The country to the -south is high and craggy; but the other parts of the island had a better -aspect, and appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that it produces -very few plantains and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, -such as yams, sweet potatoes, and tarrow. - -Woahoo lies to the north-west of Morotoi, at the distance of about seven -leagues. As far as we could judge, from the appearance of the north-east -and north-west parts (for we saw nothing of the southern side), it is by -far the finest island of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure -of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated valleys, -which the whole face of the country displayed. Having already given a -description of the bay, formed by the north and west extremities, in -which we came to anchor, I have only to observe, that in the bight of -the bay, to the south of the anchoring-place, we found rocky foul -ground, two miles from the shore. Should the ground tackling of a ship -be weak, and the wind blow strong from the north, to which quarter the -road is entirely open, this circumstance might be attended with some -danger; but with good cables there would be little risk, as the ground -from the anchoring-place, which is opposite to the valley through which -the river runs to the north point, is a fine sand. - -Atooi lies to the north-west of Woahoo, and is distant from it about -twenty-five leagues. The face of the country to the north-east and -north-west is broken and ragged; but to the south it is more even; the -hills rise with a gentle slope from the sea side, and, at some distance -back, are covered with wood. Its productions are the same with those of -the other islands; but the inhabitants far surpass all the neighbouring -islanders in the management of their plantations. In the low grounds, -adjoining to the bay where we lay at anchor, these plantations were -divided by deep and regular ditches; the fences were made with a -neatness approaching to elegance, and the roads through them were thrown -up and finished, in a manner that would have done credit to any European -engineer. - -Oneeheow lies five leagues to the westward of Atooi. The eastern coast -is high, and rises abruptly from the sea, but the rest of the island -consists of low ground; excepting a round bluff head on the south-east -point. It produces abundance of yams, and of the sweet root called -_Tee_; but we got from it no other sort of provisions. - -Oreehoua and Tahoora are two small islands in the neighbourhood of -Oneeheow. The former is a single high hummock, joined by a reef of coral -rocks, to the northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the -south-east, and is uninhabited. - -The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from that of the -West India Islands, which lie in the same latitude. Upon the whole, -perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer on shore in -Karakakooa Bay never rose higher than 88°, and that but one day; its -mean height, at noon, was 83°. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was -76°, and when out at sea, 75°. The mean height of the thermometer at -noon, in Jamaica, is about 86°, at sea 80°. - -Whether they be subject to the same violent winds and hurricanes, we -could not discover, as we were not there in any of the stormy months. -However, as the natives gave us no positive testimony of the fact, and -no traces of their effects were any where visible, it is probable that, -in this respect, they resemble the Society and Friendly Islands, which -are in a great measure free from these dreadful visitations. - -During the four winter months that we remained amongst these islands, -there was more rain, especially in the interior parts, than usually fall -during the dry season, in the islands of the West Indies. We generally -saw clouds collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to -leeward; but after they are separated from the land by the wind, they -disperse, and are lost, and others succeed in their place. This happened -daily at Owhyhee: the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a -cloud; successive showers falling in the inland country; with fine -weather, and a clear sky at the sea shore. - -The winds in general were, from east south-east to north-east; though -this sometimes varied a few points each way to the north and south; but -these were light, and of short duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa, -we had a constant land and sea breeze every day and night. - -The currents seemed very uncertain, sometimes setting to windward, and -at other times to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear -to be governed by the winds, nor any other cause that I can assign: they -frequently set to windward against a fresh breeze. - -The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood -comes from the eastward; and it is high water at the full and change of -the moon, forty-five minutes past three, apparent time. Their greatest -rise is two feet seven inches: and we always observed the water to be -four inches higher when the moon was above the horizon than when it was -below. - -The quadrupeds in these, as in all the other islands that have been -discovered in the South Sea, are confined to three sorts, dogs, hogs, -and rats. The dogs are of the same species with those of Otaheite, -having short crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not -observe any variety in them, except in their skins; some having long and -rough hair, and others being quite smooth. They are about the size of a -common turnspit; exceedingly sluggish in their nature; though perhaps -this may be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to -any natural disposition in them. They are, in general, fed and left to -herd with the hogs; and I do not recollect one instance in which a dog -was made a companion, in the manner we do in Europe. Indeed, the custom -of eating them is an insuperable bar to their admission into society; -and, as there are neither beasts of prey in the island, nor objects of -chace, it is probable, that the social qualities of the dog, its -fidelity, attachment, and sagacity, will remain unknown to the natives. - -The number of dogs in these islands did not appear to be nearly equal, -in proportion, to those in Otaheite. But, on the other hand, they abound -much more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The -supply of provisions of this kind, which we got from them, was really -astonishing. We were near four months, either cruising off the coast, or -in harbour at Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of fresh -pork was constantly served to both crews; so that our consumption was -computed at about sixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Besides -this, and the incredible waste which, in the midst of such plenty, was -not to be guarded against, sixty puncheons more were salted for sea -store. The greatest part of this supply was drawn from the island of -Owhyhee alone, and yet we could not perceive that it was at all drained, -or even that the abundance had any way decreased. - -The birds of these islands are as beautiful as any we have seen during -the voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There are four, which -seem to belong to the _trochili_, or honeysuckers of Linnæus; one of -which is something larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a fine glossy -black, the rump-vent and thighs a deep yellow. It is called by the -natives _hoohoo_. Another is of an exceeding bright scarlet colour; the -wings black, and edged with white, and the tail black; its native name -is _eeeeve_. A third, which seems to be either a young bird, or a -variety of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The -fourth is entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called -_akaiearooa_. There is a species of thrush, with a grey breast; and a -small bird of the flycatcher kind; a rail, with very short wings and no -tail, which on that account, we named _rallus ecaudotus_. Ravens are -found here, but they are very scarce; their colour is dark brown, -inclining to black; and their note is different from the European. Here -are two small birds, both of one _genus_, that are very common; one is -red, and generally seen about the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when -they are in flower, from whence it seems to derive great part of its -subsistence; the other is green; the tongues of both are long and -ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a yellow head, which, from -the structure of its beak, we called a perroquet, is likewise very -common. It, however, by no means belongs to that tribe, but greatly -resembles the _lexia flavicans_, or yellowish cross-bill of Linnæus. - -Here are also owls, plovers of two sorts, one very like the whistling -plover of Europe; a large white pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whose -colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much -longer than is usually seen in the generality of birds, except the birds -of paradise) are yellow; and the common water or darker hen. - -Their vegetable productions are nearly the same with the rest of the -South Sea islands. I have before mentioned, that the _tarrow_ root is -much superior to any we had before tasted, and that we attributed this -excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees -thrive here, not in such abundance, but produce double the quantity of -fruit, they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of -the same height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk -much lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their sugar-canes are also of a -very unusual size. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, measuring -eleven inches and a quarter in circumference, and having fourteen feet -eatable. - -At Oneeheow, they brought us several large roots of a brown colour, -shaped like a yam, and from six to ten pounds in weight. The juice, -which it yields in great abundance, is very sweet, and of a pleasant -taste, and was found to be an excellent substitute for sugar. The -natives are very fond of it, and use it as an article of their common -diet; and our people also found it very palatable and wholesome. We -could not learn to what species of plant it belonged, having never been -able to procure the leaves; but it was supposed by our botanists to be -the root of some kind of fern. - -Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I shall subjoin an abstract -of the astronomical observations which were made at the observatory in -Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for -finding the rate and error of the time-keeper. To these are subjoined -the mean variation of the compass, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a -table of the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Islands. - - The latitude of the observatory, - deduced from meridian zenith - distances of the sun, eleven - stars to the south, and four - stars to the north of the zenith 19° 28ʹ 0ʺ north. - - The longitude of the observatory, - deduced from 253 sets of - lunar observations; each set - consisting of six observed distances - of the sun from the moon, or stars; - fourteen of the above sets were only - taken at the observatory, 105 sets - being taken whilst cruizing off - Owhyhee; and 134 sets, when - at Atooi and Oneeheow; all - these being reduced to the observatory, - by means of the time-keeper 204° 0ʹ 0ʺ east. - - The longitude of the observatory, - by the time-keeper, on the - 19th January, 1779, according - to its rate, as found at - Greenwich 214° 7ʹ 15ʺ east. - - The longitude of the observatory, - by the time-keeper, on - the 19th January, 1779, according - to its rate, corrected - at different places, and last at - Samganoodha Harbour, in - Oonalaschka 203° 37ʹ 22ʺ east. - - The daily rate of the time-keeper - losing on mean time, - was 9ʺ, 6; and on the 2d - February, 1779, it was 14^h - 41ʹ 1ʺ slow for mean time. - - The variation of the compass, by - azimuths observed on shore, - with four different compasses 8° 6ʹ 0ʺ east. - - The variation of the compass, by - azimuths, observed on board - the Resolution, with four different - compasses 7° 32ʹ 0ʺ east. - - Dip of the north } Balanced needle 40° 22ʹ 30ʺ - pole of the magnetic } Unbalanced } - needle on } or plain } 40° 41ʹ 15ʺ - shore, with } needle } - - Dip of the north } - pole of the magnetic } Balanced needle 41° 50ʹ 0ʺ - needle on } Unbalanced } - board, with } needle } 40° 30ʹ 45ʺ - - - _A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Islands._ - - Latitude. Longitude. - {The North point 20° 17ʹ 204° 2ʹ - {South point 18° 54ʹ 204° 15ʹ - Owhyhee {East point 19° 34ʹ 205° 6ʹ - {Karakakooa Bay 19° 28ʹ 204° 0ʹ - - {East point 20° 50ʹ 204° 4ʹ - Mowee {South point 20° 34ʹ 203° 48ʹ - {West point 20° 54ʹ 203° 24ʹ - Morokinnee 20° 39ʹ 203° 33ʹ - Tahoorowa 20° 38ʹ 203° 27ʹ - Ranai. South point 20° 46ʹ 203° 8ʹ - Morotoi. West point 21° 10ʹ 202° 46ʹ - Woahoo. Anchoring-place 21° 43ʹ 202° 9ʹ - Atooi. Wymoa Bay 21° 57ʹ 200° 20ʹ - Oneeheow. Anchoring-place 21° 50ʹ 199° 45ʹ - Oreehoua 22° 2ʹ 199° 52ʹ - Tahoora 21° 43ʹ 199° 36ʹ - - - - - CHAP. VII. - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS CONTINUED.—OF THE INHABITANTS.— - THEIR ORIGIN.—PERSONS.—PERNICIOUS EFFECTS OF THE AVA.—NUMBERS.— - DISPOSITION AND MANNERS.—REASONS FOR SUPPOSING THEM NOT CANNIBALS.— - DRESS AND ORNAMENTS.—VILLAGES AND HOUSES.—FOOD.—OCCUPATIONS AND - AMUSEMENTS.—ADDICTED TO GAMING.—THEIR EXTRAORDINARY DEXTERITY IN - SWIMMING.—ARTS AND MANUFACTURES.—CURIOUS SPECIMENS OF THEIR - SCULPTURE.—KIPPAREE, OR METHOD OF PAINTING CLOTH.—MATS.— - FISHING-HOOKS.—CORDAGE.—SALT-PANS.—WARLIKE INSTRUMENTS. - - -The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly of the same race -with those of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Islands, Easter -Island, and the Marquesas; a race that possesses, without any -intermixture, all the known lands between the latitudes of 47° south, -and 20° north, and between the longitudes of 184° and 260 east. This -fact, which, extraordinary as it is, might be thought sufficiently -proved by the striking similarity of their manners and customs, and the -general resemblance of their persons, is established, beyond all -controversy, by the absolute identity of their language. - -From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what steps they -have spread through so vast a space, those who are curious in -disquisitions of this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to -conjecture. It has been already observed, that they bear strong marks of -affinity to some of the Indian tribes, that inhabit the Ladrones and -Caroline Islands; and the same affinity may again be traced amongst the -Battas and the Malays. When these events happened, is not so easy to -ascertain; it was probably not very lately, as they are extremely -populous, and have no tradition of their own origin, but what is -perfectly fabulous; whilst, on the other hand, the unadulterated state -of their general language, and the simplicity which still prevails in -their customs and manners, seem to indicate, that it could not have been -at any very distant period. - -The natives of these islands are, in general, above the middle size, and -well made; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of -bearing great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are somewhat -inferior, in point of strength and activity, to the Friendly Islanders, -and the women less delicately limbed than those of Otaheite. Their -complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheiteans, and they are -not altogether so handsome a people. However, many of both sexes had -fine open countenances; and the women, in particular, had good eyes and -teeth, and a sweetness and sensibility of look, which rendered them very -engaging. Their hair is of a brownish black, and neither uniformly -straight, like that of the Indians of America, nor uniformly curling, as -amongst the African negroes, but varying, in this respect, like the hair -of Europeans. One striking peculiarity, in the features of every part of -this great nation, I do not remember to have seen any where mentioned; -which is, that, even in the handsomest faces, there is always a fulness -of the nostril, without any flatness or spreading of the nose, that -distinguishes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be -the effect of their usual mode of salutation, which is performed by -pressing the ends of their noses together. - -The same superiority that is observable in the persons of the _Erees_, -through all the other islands, is found also here. Those whom we saw -were, without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower sort, -besides their general inferiority, are subject to all the variety of -make and figure that is seen in the populace of other countries. -Instances of deformity are more frequent here, than in any of the other -islands. Whilst we were cruising off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, -one an old man, four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and -the other a woman, nearly of the same height. We afterward saw three -natives, who were hump-backed, and a young man, born without hands or -feet. Squinting is also very common amongst them; and a man, who, they -said, had been born blind, was brought to us to be cured. Besides these -particular imperfections, they are, in general, very subject to boils -and ulcers, which we attributed to the great quantity of salt they eat -with their flesh and fish. The _Erees_ are very free from these -complaints; but many of them suffer still more dreadful effects from the -immoderate use of the _ava_. Those who were the most affected by it, had -their bodies covered with a white scurf, their eyes red and inflamed, -their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and paralytic, -accompanied with a disability to raise the head. Though this drug does -not appear universally to shorten life, as was evident from the cases of -Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and some other chiefs, who were very old men; yet it -invariably brings on an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate, -that the use of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the chiefs. -The young son of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, used to -boast of his being admitted to drink ava, and showed us, with great -triumph, a small spot in his side that was growing scaly. - -There is something very singular in the history of this pernicious drug. -When Captain Cook first visited the Society Islands, it was very little -known among them. On his second voyage, he found the use of it very -prevalent at Ulietea; but it had still gained very little ground at -Otaheite. When we were last there, the dreadful havock it had made was -beyond belief, insomuch that the Captain scarce knew many of his old -acquaintances. At the Friendly Islands, it is also constantly drunk by -the chiefs, but so much diluted with water, that it does not appear to -produce any bad effects. At Atooi, also, it is used with great -moderation, and the chiefs are, in consequence, a much finer set of men -there, than in any of the neighbouring islands. We remarked, that, by -discontinuing the use of this root, the noxious effects of it soon wore -off. Our good friends, Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were persuaded by us to -refrain from it; and they recovered amazingly during the short time we -afterward remained in the island. - -It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures -respecting the population of islands, with many parts of which we are -but imperfectly acquainted. There are, however, two circumstances, that -take away much of this objection; the first is, that the interior parts -of the country are entirely uninhabited; so that, if the number of the -inhabitants along the coast be known, the whole will be pretty -accurately determined. The other is, that there are no towns of any -considerable size, the habitations of the natives being pretty equally -dispersed in small villages, round all their coasts. It is on this -ground, that I shall venture at a rough calculation of the number of -persons in this group of islands. - -The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and -contains four villages of about eighty houses each; upon an average, in -all three hundred and twenty; besides a number of straggling houses; -which may make the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the -frequent opportunities I had of informing myself on this head, I am -convinced, that six persons to a house is a very moderate allowance; so -that, on this calculation, the country about the bay contains two -thousand one hundred souls. To these may be added, fifty families, or -three hundred persons, which I conceive to be nearly the number employed -in the interior parts of the country, amongst their plantations; making -in all two thousand four hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied -to the whole extent of coast round the island, deducting a quarter for -the uninhabited parts, it will be found to contain one hundred and fifty -thousand. By the same mode of calculation, the rest of the islands will -be found to contain the following numbers: - - Owhyhee, 150,000 - Mowee, 65,400 - Woahoo, 60,200 - Atooi, 54,000 - Morotoi, 36,000 - Oneeheow, 10,000 - Ranai, 20,400 - Oreehoua, 4,000 - ------- - Total of inhabitants, 400,000 - -I am pretty confident, that, in this calculation, I have not exceeded -the truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers supposed to be -in Owhyhee, with the population of Otaheite, as settled by Dr. Foster, -this computation will be found very low. The proportion of coast, in the -latter island, is, to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three: the number -of inhabitants in Otaheite, he states to be one hundred and twenty-one -thousand five hundred; though, according to his own principles, it -should be double that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium -population of the countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour -of the latter nearly as two to one. - -Notwithstanding the irreparable loss we suffered from the sudden -resentment and violence of these people, yet, in justice to their -general conduct, it must be acknowledged, that they are of the most mild -and affectionate disposition; equally remote from the extreme levity and -fickleness of the Otaheiteans, and the distant gravity and reserve of -the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands. They appear to live in the -utmost harmony and friendship with one another. The women, who had -children, were remarkable for their tender and constant attention to -them; and the men would often lend their assistance in those domestic -offices, with a willingness that does credit to their feelings. - -It must, however, be observed, that they fall very short of the other -islanders, in that best test of civilization, the respect paid to the -women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with -the men, but the best sorts of food are _tabooed_, or forbidden them. -They are not allowed to eat pork, turtle, several kinds of fish, and -some species of the plantains; and we were told that a poor girl got a -terrible beating, for having eaten, on board our ship, one of these -interdicted articles. In their domestic life, they appear to live almost -entirely by themselves, and though we did not observe any instances of -personal ill-treatment, yet it was evident they had little regard or -attention paid them. - -The great hospitality and kindness with which we were received by them, -have been already frequently remarked; and indeed they make the -principal part of our transactions with them. Whenever we came on shore, -there was a constant struggle who should be most forward in making us -little presents, bringing refreshments, or showing some other mark of -their respect. The whole people never failed of receiving us with tears -of joy; seemed highly gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were -constantly making comparisons between themselves and us, with the -strongest marks of humility. The young women were not less kind and -engaging, and, till they found, notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to -prevent it, that they had reason to repent of our acquaintance, attached -themselves to us without the least reserve. - -In justice, however, to the sex, it must be observed, that these ladies -were probably all of the lower class of the people; for I am strongly -inclined to believe, that, excepting the few, whose names are mentioned -in the course of our narrative, we did not see any woman of rank, during -our stay amongst them. - -Their natural capacity seems, in no respect, below the common standard -of mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of -their manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumstances of their -situation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiosity -with which they attended the armourer’s forge, and the many expedients -they had invented, even before we left the islands, for working the iron -they had procured from us, into such forms as were best adapted to their -purposes, were strong proofs of docility and ingenuity. - -Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, possessed a degree of judicious -curiosity, and a quickness of conception, which was rarely met with -amongst these people. He was very inquisitive after our customs and -manners; asked after our king; the nature of our government; our -numbers; the method of building our ships; our houses; the produce of -our country; whether we had wars; with whom; and on what occasions; and -in what manner they were carried on; who was our God; and many other -questions of the same nature, which indicated an understanding of great -comprehension. - -We met with two instances of persons disordered in their minds, the one -a man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the -particular attention and respect paid to them, that the opinion of their -being inspired by the Divinity, which obtains among most of the nations -of the east, is also received here. - -Though the custom of eating the bodies of their enemies be not known, by -positive evidence, to exist in any of the South Sea Islands, except New -Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent -in them all. The sacrificing human victims, which seems evidently to be -a relic of this horrid practice, still obtains universally amongst these -islanders; and it is easy to conceive, why the New Zealanders should -retain the repast, which was probably the last act of these shocking -rites, longer than the rest of their tribe, who were situated in more -mild and fruitful climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands -certainly bear a nearer resemblance to those of New Zealand, both in -their persons and dispositions than to any other people of this family, -so it was strongly suspected, by Mr. Anderson, that, like them, they -still continue to feast on human flesh. The evidence on which he founds -this opinion, has been stated very fully in the tenth chapter of the -third book[14]; but, as I always entertained great doubts of the justice -of his conclusions, it may not be improper to take this occasion of -mentioning the grounds on which I venture to differ from him. With -respect to the information derived from the natives themselves, I shall -only observe, that great pains were taken, by almost every officer on -board, to come at the knowledge of so curious a circumstance; and that, -except in the two instances mentioned by Mr. Anderson, we found them -invariably denying the existence of any such custom amongst them. It -must be allowed, that Mr. Anderson’s knowledge of their language, which -was superior to that of any other person in either ship, ought certainly -to give his opinion great weight; at the same time, I must beg leave to -remark, that, being present when he examined the man who had the small -piece of salted flesh wrapped in cloth, it struck me very forcibly, that -the signs he made use of meant nothing more, than that it was intended -to be ate, and that it was very pleasant or wholesome to the stomach. In -this opinion, I was confirmed by a circumstance which came to our -knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious friend, _viz._ -that almost every native of these islands carried about with him, either -in his calibash, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his -waist, a small piece of raw pork, highly salted, which they considered -as a great delicacy, and used now and then to taste of. With respect to -the confusion the young lad was in (for he was not more than sixteen or -eighteen years of age), no one could have been surprized at it who had -seen the eager and earnest manner in which Mr. Anderson questioned him. - -The argument drawn from the instrument made with shark’s teeth, and -which is nearly of the same form with those used at New Zealand for -cutting up the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to -controvert. I believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it -may be so called, is never used by them in cutting the flesh of other -animals. However, as the custom of offering human sacrifices, and of -burning the bodies of the slain, is still prevalent here, it is not -improbable, that the use of this instrument is retained in those -ceremonies. Upon the whole, I am strongly inclined to think, and -particularly from this last circumstance, that the horrid practice in -question has but lately ceased amongst these and other islands of the -South Sea. Omai, when pressed on this subject, confessed, that, in the -rage and fury of revenge, they would sometimes tear the flesh of their -enemies, that were slain, with their teeth; but positively denied that -they ever eat it. This was certainly approaching as near the fact as -could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a strong proof that the -practice has actually ceased; since in New Zealand, where it still -exists, the inhabitants never made the smallest scruple of confessing -it. - -The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of the Friendly -Isles, in suffering, almost universally, their beards to grow. There -were, indeed, a few, amongst whom was the old king, that cut it off -entirely; and others that wore it only upon the upper lip. The same -variety in the manner of wearing the hair is also observable here, as -among the other islanders of the South Sea; besides which, they have a -fashion, as far as we know, peculiar to themselves. They cut it close on -each side the head, down to the ears, leaving a ridge, of about a small -hand’s breadth, running from the forehead to the neck; which, when the -hair is thick and curling, has the form of the crest of the ancient -helmet. Others wear large quantities of false hair, flowing down their -backs in long ringlets, like the figure of the inhabitants of Horn -Island, as seen in Dalrymple’s Voyages; and others, again, tie it into a -single round bunch on the top of the head, almost as large as the head -itself; and some into five or six distinct bunches. They daub their hair -with a grey clay, mixed with powdered shells, which they keep in balls, -and chew into a kind of soft paste, when they have occasion to make use -of it. This keeps the hair smooth; and, in time, changes it to a pale -yellow colour. - -Both sexes wear necklaces, made of strings of small variegated shells; -and an ornament, in the form of the handle of a cup, about two inches -long, and half an inch broad, made of wood, stone, or ivory, finely -polished, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads of twisted hair, -doubled sometimes an hundred fold. Instead of this ornament, some of -them wear, on their breast, a small human figure, made of bone, -suspended in the same manner. - -The fan, or fly-flap, is also an ornament used by both sexes. The most -ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loose, in -bunches, to the top of a smooth polished handle. The tail-feathers of -the cock, and of the tropic-bird, are also used in the same manner; but -the most valuable are those which have the handle made of the arm or leg -bones of an enemy slain in battle, and which are preserved with great -care, and handed down, from father to son, as trophies of inestimable -value. - -The custom of _tattowing_ the body, they have in common with the rest of -the natives of the South Sea Islands; but it is only at New Zealand and -the Sandwich Islands that they _tattow_ the face. There is also this -difference between the two last, that, in the former, it is done in -elegant spiral volutes, and in the latter, in straight lines, crossing -each other at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are also -very neatly marked, and they have a singular custom amongst them, the -meaning of which we could never learn, that of _tattowing_ the tip of -the tongues of the females. - -From some information we received, relative to the custom of -_tattowing_, we were inclined to think that it is frequently intended as -a sign of mourning on the death of a chief, or any other calamitous -event. For we were often told, that such a particular mark was in memory -of such a chief; and so of the rest. It may be here, too, observed, that -the lowest class are often _tattowed_ with a mark that distinguishes -them as the property of the several chiefs to whom they belong. - -The dress of the men generally consists only of a piece of thick cloth -called the _maro_, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pass -between the legs, and tie round the waist. This is the common dress of -all ranks of people. Their mats, some of which are beautifully -manufactured, are of various sizes, but mostly about five feet long, and -four broad. These they throw over their shoulders, and bring forward -before; but they are seldom used, except in time of war, for which -purpose they seem better adapted than for ordinary use, being of a thick -and cumbersome texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a stone, or -any blunt weapon. Their feet are generally bare, except when they have -occasion to travel over the burnt stones, when they secure them with a -sort of sandal, made of cords, twisted from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. -Such is the ordinary dress of these islanders; but they have another, -appropriated to their chiefs, and used on ceremonious occasions, -consisting of a feathered cloak and helmet, which, in point of beauty -and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any nation in the -world. As this dress has been already described with great accuracy and -minuteness, I have only to add, that these cloaks are made of different -lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, some of them reaching -no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The inferior -chiefs have also a short cloak, resembling the former, made of the long -tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man-of-war birds, with a broad -border of the small red and yellow feathers, and a collar of the same. -Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated -borders. The helmet has a strong lining of wicker-work, capable of -breaking the blow of any warlike instrument, and seems evidently -designed for that purpose. - -These feathered dresses seemed to be exceedingly scarce, appropriated to -persons of the highest rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole -time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never saw them used but on three -occasions: in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo’s first visit to the -ships; by some chiefs who were seen among the crowd on shore when -Captain Cook was killed; and afterward when Eappo brought his bones to -us. - -The exact resemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet -formerly worn by the Spaniards, was too striking not to excite our -curiosity to inquire whether there were any probable grounds for -supposing it to have been borrowed from them. After exerting every means -in our power of obtaining information on this subject, we found that -they had no immediate knowledge of any other nation whatever; nor any -tradition remaining among them of these islands having been ever visited -before by such ships as ours. But notwithstanding the result of these -inquiries, the uncommon form of this habit appears to me a sufficient -proof of its European origin; especially when added to another -circumstance, that it is a singular deviation from the general -resemblance in dress which prevails amongst all the branches of this -tribe, dispersed through the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by this -conclusion, to a supposition of the shipwreck of some Buccaneer, or -Spanish ship in the neighbourhood of these islands. But when it is -recollected, that the course of the Spanish trade from Acapulco to the -Manillas is but a few degrees to the southward of the Sandwich Islands, -in their passage out, and to the northward, on their return, this -supposition will not appear in the least improbable. - -The common dress of the women bears a close resemblance to that of the -men. They wrap round the waist a piece of cloth, that reaches half way -down the thighs; and sometimes, in the cool of the evening, they -appeared with loose pieces of fine cloth thrown over their shoulders, -like the women of Otaheite. The _pau_ is another dress very frequently -worn by the younger part of the sex. It is made of the thinnest and -finest sort of cloth, wrapt several times round the waist, and -descending to the leg; so as to have exactly the appearance of a full -short petticoat. Their hair is cut short behind, and turned up before, -as is the fashion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealanders; all of whom -differ, in this respect, from the women of the Friendly Islands, who -wear their hair long. We saw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whose -hair was arranged in a very singular manner; it was turned up behind, -and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, so as to form a -sort of shade to the face, like a small bonnet. - -Their necklaces are made of shells, or of a hard, shining red berry. -Besides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow; -and another beautiful ornament called _eraie_, which is generally put -about the neck, but is sometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and -sometimes worn in both these ways at once. It is a ruff of the thickness -of a finger, made, in a curious manner, of exceedingly small feathers, -woven so close together as to form a surface as smooth as that of the -richest velvet. The ground was generally of a red colour, with alternate -circles of green, yellow, and black. Their bracelets, which were also of -great variety, and very peculiar kinds, have been already described. - -At Atooi, some of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly -formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear -rings. Why this animal is thus particularly distinguished, I leave to -the conjectures of the curious. There is also an ornament made of -shells, fastened in rows on a ground of strong netting, so as to strike -each other, when in motion; which both men and women, when they dance, -tie either round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Instead of -shells, they sometimes make use of dogs’ teeth, and a hard red berry, -resembling that of the holly. - -There remains to be mentioned another ornament, if such it may be -called. It is a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in -it for the eyes and nose. The top was stuck full of small green twigs, -which, at a distance, had the appearance of an elegant waving plume: and -from the lower part hung narrow stripes of cloth, resembling a beard. We -never saw these masks worn but twice, and both times by a number of -people together in a canoe, who came to the side of the ship laughing -and drolling, with an air of masquerading. Whether they may not likewise -be used as a defence for the head against stones, for which they seem -best designed, or in some of their public games, or be merely intended -for the purposes of mummery, we could never inform ourselves. - -It has already been remarked, in a few instances, that the natives of -the Sandwich Islands approach nearer to the New Zealanders, in their -manners and customs, than to either of their less distant neighbours of -the Society or Friendly Islands. This is in nothing more observable, -than in their method of living together in small towns or villages, -containing from about one hundred to two hundred houses, built pretty -close together, without any order, and having a winding path leading -through them. They are generally flanked, toward the sea, with loose -detached walls, which probably are meant both for the purposes of -shelter and defence. The figure of their houses has been already -described. They are of different sizes, from eighteen feet by twelve, to -forty-five by twenty-four. There are some of a larger kind; being fifty -feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one end. These, they told -us, were designed for travellers or strangers, who were only making a -short stay. - -In addition to the furniture of their houses, which has been accurately -described by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats -on which they sleep, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, exactly -like those of the Chinese. Some of the better sort of houses have a -court-yard before them, neatly railed in, with smaller houses built -round it, for their servants. In this _area_ they generally eat, and sit -during the day-time. In the sides of the hills, and among the steep -rocks, we also observed several holes or caves, which appeared to be -inhabited; but as the entrance was defended with wicker work, and we -also found, in the only one that was visited, a stone fence running -across it within, we imagine they are principally designed for places of -retreat, in case of an attack from an enemy. - -The food of the lower class of people consists principally of fish, and -vegetables; such as yams, sweet potatoes, tarrow, plantains, -sugar-canes, and bread-fruit. To these, the people of a higher rank add -the flesh of hogs and dogs, dressed in the same manner as at the Society -Islands. They also eat fowls of the same domestic kind with ours; but -they are neither plentiful, nor much esteemed by them. It is remarked by -Captain Cook, that the bread-fruit and yams appeared scarce amongst -them, and were reckoned great rarities. We found this not to be the case -on our second visit; and it is therefore most probable, that, as these -vegetables were generally planted in the interior parts of the country, -the natives had not had time to bring them down to us, during the short -stay we made in Wymoa Bay. Their fish they salt, and preserve in -gourd-shells; not, as we at first imagined, for the purpose of providing -against any temporary scarcity, but from the preference they give to -salted meats. For we also found, that the _Erees_ used to pickle pieces -of pork in the same manner, and esteemed it a great delicacy. - -Their cookery is exactly of the same sort with that already described, -in the accounts that have been published of the other South Sea islands: -and though Captain Cook complains of the sourness of their tarrow -puddings, yet, in justice to the many excellent meals they afforded us -in Karakakooa Bay, I must be permitted to rescue them from this general -censure, and to declare, that I never eat better, even in the Friendly -Islands. It is however remarkable, that they had not got the art of -preserving the bread-fruit, and making the sour paste of it called -_Maihee_, as at the Society Islands; and it was some satisfaction to us, -in return for their great kindness and hospitality, to have it in our -power to teach them this useful secret. They are exceedingly cleanly at -their meals; and their mode of dressing both their animal and vegetable -food, was universally allowed to be greatly superior to ours. The chiefs -constantly begin their meal with a doze of the extract of pepper-root, -brewed after the usual manner. The women eat apart from the men, and are -_tabooed_, or forbidden, as has been already mentioned, the use of pork, -turtle, and particular kinds of plantains. However, they would eat pork -with us in private; but we could never prevail upon them to touch the -two last articles. - -The way of spending their time appears to be very simple, and to admit -of little variety. - -They rise with the sun; and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, -retire to rest a few hours after sun-set. The making of canoes and mats -forms the occupations of the _Erees_; the women are employed in -manufacturing cloth; and the _Towtows_ are principally engaged in the -plantations and fishing. Their idle hours are filled up with various -amusements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing; and, on more -solemn occasions, they have boxing and wrestling matches, after the -manner of the Friendly Islands; though, in all these respects, they are -much inferior to the latter. - -Their dances have a much nearer resemblance to those of the New -Zealanders, than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Islanders. They are -prefaced with a slow, solemn song, in which all the party join, moving -their legs, and gently striking their breasts, in a manner, and with -attitudes, that are perfectly easy and graceful; and so far they are the -same with the dances of the Society Islands. When this has lasted about -ten minutes, both the tune and the motions gradually quicken, and end -only by their inability to support their fatigue; which part of the -performance is the exact counterpart of that of the New Zealanders; and -(as it is among them) the person who uses the most violent action, and -holds out the longest, is applauded as the best dancer. It is to be -observed, that, in this dance, the women only take a part, and that the -dancing of the men is nearly of the same kind with what we saw of the -small parties at the Friendly Islands; and which may, perhaps, with more -propriety, be called the accompaniment of songs, with corresponding and -graceful motions of the whole body. Yet as we were spectators of boxing -exhibitions, of the same kind with those we were entertained with at the -Friendly Islands, it is probable that they had likewise their grand -ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both sexes assisted. - -Their music is also of a ruder kind, having neither flutes or reeds, nor -instruments of any other sort, that we saw, except drums of various -sizes. But their songs, which they sung in parts[15], and accompany with -a gentle motion of the arms, in the same manner as the Friendly -Islanders, had a very pleasing effect. - -It is very remarkable, that the people of these islands are great -gamblers. They have a game very much like our draughts; but, if one may -judge from the number of squares, it is much more intricate. The board -is about two feet long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight -squares, of which there are fourteen in a row, and they make use of -black and white pebbles, which they move from square to square. - -There is another game, which consists in hiding a stone under a piece of -cloth, which one of the parties spreads out, and rumples in such a -manner, that the place where the stone lies is difficult to be -distinguished. The antagonist, with a stick, then strikes the part of -the cloth where he imagines the stone to be; and as the chances are, -upon the whole, considerably against his hitting it, odds, of all -degrees, varying with the opinion of the skill of the parties, are laid -on the side of him who hides. - -Besides these games, they frequently amuse themselves with -racing-matches between the boys and girls; and here again they wager -with great spirit. I saw a man in a most violent rage, tearing his hair, -and beating his breast, after losing three hatchets at one of these -races which he had just before purchased from us with half his -substance. - -Swimming is not only a necessary art, in which both their men and women -are more expert than any people we had hitherto seen, but a favourite -diversion amongst them. One particular mode, in which they sometimes -amused themselves with this exercise in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us -most perilous and extraordinary, and well deserving a distinct relation. - -The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the -distance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, within -which space, the surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallowness of -the water, are dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. -Whenever, from stormy weather, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the -impetuosity of the surf is increased to its utmost height, they choose -that time for this amusement, which is performed in the following -manner: twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow -board, rounded at the ends, set out together from the shore. The first -wave they meet, they plunge under, and suffering it to roll over them, -rise again beyond it, and make the best of their way, by swimming, out -into the sea. The second wave is encountered in the same manner with the -first; the great difficulty consisting in seizing the proper moment of -diving under it, which, if missed, the person is caught by the surf and -driven back again with great violence; and all his dexterity is then -required to prevent himself from being dashed against the rocks. As soon -as they have gained, by these repeated efforts, the smooth water beyond -the surf, they lay themselves at length on their board, and prepare for -their return. As the surf consists of a number of waves, of which every -third is remarked to be always much larger than the others, and to flow -higher on the shore, the rest breaking in the intermediate space, their -first object is to place themselves on the summit of the largest surge, -by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity toward the shore. -If by mistake they should place themselves on one of the smaller waves, -which breaks before they reach the land, or should not be able to keep -their plank in a proper direction on the top of the swell, they are left -exposed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are obliged again to -dive and regain the place from which they set out. Those who succeed in -their object of reaching the shore, have still the greatest danger to -encounter. The coast being guarded by a chain of rocks, with, here and -there, a small opening between them, they are obliged to steer their -board through one of these, or, in case of failure, to quit it, before -they reach the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the best of -their way back again. This is reckoned very disgraceful, and is also -attended with the loss of the board, which I have often seen, with great -terror, dashed to pieces, at the very moment the islander quitted it. -The boldness and address with which we saw them perform these difficult -and dangerous manœuvres, was altogether astonishing, and is scarcely to -be credited.[16] - -An accident, of which I was a near spectator, shews at how early a -period they are so far familiarized to the water, as both to lose all -fears of it, and to set its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overset, -in which was a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am -convinced, was not more than four years old, seemed highly delighted -with what had happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a -hundred tricks, till the canoe was put to rights again. - -Besides the amusements I have already mentioned, the young children have -one which was much played at, and shewed no small degree of dexterity. -They take a short stick, with a peg sharpened at both ends, running -through one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each side; -and throwing up a ball made of green leaves moulded together, and -secured with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg; and -immediately throwing it up again from the peg, they turn the stick -round, and thus keep catching it on each peg alternately, without -missing it, for a considerable time. They are not less expert at another -game of the same nature, tossing up in the air and catching in their -turns a number of these balls; so that we frequently saw little children -thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter play the young -people likewise divert themselves at the Friendly Islands. - -The great resemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and -navigation amongst all the inhabitants of the South Sea islands, leaves -me very little to add on those heads. Captain Cook has already described -the figure of the canoes we saw at Atooi. Those of the other islands -were precisely the same; and the largest we saw was a double canoe -belonging to Terreeoboo, which measured seventy feet in length, three -and half in depth, and twelve in breadth; and each was hollowed out of -one tree. - -The progress they have made in sculpture, their skill in painting cloth -and the manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly described. The -most curious specimens of the former which we saw during our second -visit, are the bowls in which the chiefs drink _ava_. These are usually -about eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully -polished. They are supported by three, and sometimes four small human -figures, in various attitudes. Some of them rest on the hands of their -supporters, extended over the head, others on the head and hands, and -some on the shoulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately -proportioned and neatly finished, and even the anatomy of the muscles in -supporting the weight well expressed. - -Their cloth is made of the same materials and in the same manner as at -the Friendly and Society Islands. That which is designed to be painted -is of a thick and strong texture, several folds being beat and -incorporated together; after which it is cut in breadths about two or -three feet wide, and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a -comprehensiveness and regularity of design that bespeaks infinite taste -and fancy. The exactness with which the most intricate patterns are -continued is the more surprising, when we consider that they have no -stamps, and that the whole is done by the eye with pieces of bamboo cane -dipped in paint, the hand being supported by another piece of the cane, -in the manner practised by our painters. Their colours are extracted -from the same berries and other vegetable substances as at Otaheite, -which have been already described by former voyagers. - -The business of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called -_kipparee_; and it is remarkable, that they always gave the same name to -our writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, -and show us that they knew the use of it as well as we did; at the same -time telling us that our pens were not so good as theirs. They looked -upon a sheet of written paper, as a piece of cloth striped after the -fashion of our country; and it was not without the utmost difficulty, -that we could make them understand, that our figures had a meaning in -them which theirs had not. - -Their mats are made of the leaves of the _pandanus_; and, as well as -their cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and -stained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, spotted -with squares, or rhomboids of red; others are of a straw colour, spotted -with green; and others are worked with beautiful stripes, either in -straight or waving lines of red and brown. In this article of -manufacture, whether we regard the strength, fineness, or beauty, they -certainly excel the whole world. - -Their fishing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, bone, or wood, pointed -and barbed with small bones, or tortoise-shell. They are of various -sizes and forms; but the most common are about two or three inches long, -and made in the shape of a small fish, which serves as a bait, having a -bunch of feathers tied to the head or tail. Those with which they fish -for sharks, are of a very large size, being generally six or eight -inches long. Considering the materials of which these hooks are made, -their strength and neatness are really astonishing; and in fact we found -them upon trial much superior to our own. - -The line which they use for fishing, for making nets, and for other -domestic purposes, is of different degrees of fineness, and is made of -the bark of the _touta_, or cloth tree, neatly and evenly twisted, in -the same manner as our common twine; and may be continued to any length. -They have a finer sort, made of the bark of a small shrub called -_areemah_; and the finest is made of human hair; but this last is -chiefly used for things of ornament. They also make cordage of a -stronger kind, for the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous -coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we purchased for our own use, -and found it well adapted to the smaller kinds of running rigging. They -likewise make another sort of cordage, which is flat, and exceedingly -strong, and used principally in lashing the roofing of their houses, or -whatever they wish to fasten tight together. This last is not twisted -like the former sorts, but is made of the fibrous strings of the -cocoa-nut’s coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner our sailors -make their points for the reefing of sails. - -The gourds, which grow to so enormous a size, that some of them are -capable of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all -manner of domestic purposes; and in order to fit them the better to -their respective uses, they have the ingenuity to give them different -forms, by tying bandages round them during their growth. Thus, some of -them are of a long, cylindrical form, as best adapted to contain their -fishing-tackle; others are of a dish form, and these serve to hold their -salt, and salted provisions, their puddings, vegetables, &c.; which two -sorts have neat close covers, made likewise of the gourd; others again -are exactly the shape of a bottle with a long neck, and in these they -keep their water. They have likewise a method of scoring them with a -heated instrument, so as to give them the appearance of being painted, -in a variety of neat and elegant designs. - -Amongst their arts, we must not forget that of making salt, with which -we were amply supplied, during our stay at these islands, and which was -perfectly good of its kind. Their salt pans are made of earth, lined -with clay; being generally six or eight feet square, and about eight -inches deep. They are raised upon a bank of stones near the high water -mark, from whence the salt water is conducted to the foot of them, in -small trenches, out of which they are filled, and the sun quickly -performs the necessary process of evaporation. The salt we procured at -Atooi and Oneeheow, on our first visit, was of a brown and dirty sort; -but that which we afterward got in Karakakooa Bay, was white, and of a -most excellent quality, and in great abundance. Besides the quantity we -used in salting pork, we filled all our empty casks, amounting to -sixteen puncheons, in the Resolution only. - -Their instruments of war are spears; daggers, called _pahooas_; clubs, -and slings. The spears are of two sorts, and made of a hard solid wood, -which has much the appearance of mahogany. One sort is from six to eight -feet in length, finely polished, and gradually increasing in thickness -from the extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which -tapers suddenly, and is furnished with four or six rows of barbs. It is -not improbable, that these might be used in the way of darts. The other -sort, with which we saw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi mostly armed, -are twelve or fifteen feet long, and instead of being barbed, terminate -toward the point, like their daggers. - -The dagger, or _pahooa_, is made of heavy black wood, resembling ebony. -Its length is from one to two feet, with a string passing through the -handle, for the purpose of suspending it to the arm. - -The clubs are made indifferently of several sorts of wood. They are of -rude workmanship, and of a variety of shapes and sizes. - -The slings have nothing singular about them; and in no respect differ -from our common slings, except that the stone is lodged on a piece of -matting instead of leather. - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS CONTINUED.—GOVERNMENT.—PEOPLE - DIVIDED INTO THREE CLASSES.—POWER OF EREE-TABOO.—GENEALOGY OF THE - KINGS OF OWHYHEE AND MOWEE.—POWER OF THE CHIEFS.—STATE OF THE INFERIOR - CLASS.—PUNISHMENT OF CRIMES.—RELIGION.—SOCIETY OF PRIESTS.—THE ORONO.— - THEIR IDOLS.—SONGS CHANTED BY THE CHIEFS, BEFORE THEY DRINK AVA.—HUMAN - SACRIFICES.—CUSTOM OF KNOCKING OUT THE FORE-TEETH.—NOTIONS WITH REGARD - TO A FUTURE STATE.—MARRIAGES.—REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF JEALOUSY.—FUNERAL - RITES. - - -The people of these islands are manifestly divided into three classes. -The first are the _Erees_, or chiefs, of each district; one of whom is -superior to the rest, and is called at Owhyhee _Eree-taboo_, and _Eree -Moee_. By the first of these words they express his absolute authority; -and by the latter, that all are obliged to prostrate themselves (or put -themselves to sleep, as the word signifies) in his presence. The second -class are those who appear to enjoy a right of property, without -authority. The third are the _towtows_, or servants, who have neither -rank nor property. - -It is not possible to give any thing like a systematical account of the -subordination of these classes to each other, without departing from -that strict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more -satisfactory than conjectures, however ingenious. I will therefore -content myself with relating such facts, as we were witnesses to -ourselves, and such accounts as we thought could be depended upon; and -shall leave the reader to form, from them, his own ideas of the nature -of their government. - -The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the _Eree-taboo_ of -Owhyhee, was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at -Karakakooa on his first arrival. All the natives were seen prostrated at -the entrance of their houses; and the canoes, for two days before, were -_tabooed_, or forbidden to go out till he took off the restraint. He -was, at this time, just returned from Mowee, for the possession of which -he was contending in favor of his son Teewarro, who had married the -daughter and only child of the late king of that island, against -Taheeterree, his surviving brother. He was attended in this expedition -by many of his warriors; but whether their service was voluntary, or the -condition on which they hold their rank and property, we could not -learn. - -That he collects tribute from the subordinate chiefs, we had a very -striking proof in the instance of Kaoo, which has been already related -in our transactions of the 2d and 3d of February. - -I have before mentioned, that the two most powerful chiefs of these -islands are Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeorannee of Woahoo; the rest -of the smaller isles being subject to one or other of these; Mowee, and -its dependencies, being, at this time, claimed, as we have just -observed, by Terreeoboo for Teewarro his son and intended successor; -Atooi and Oneeheow being governed by the grandsons of Perreeorannee. - -The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which I -collected from the priests, during our residence at the _Morai_ in -Karakakooa Bay, contains all the information I could procure relative to -the political history of these islands. - -This account reaches to four chiefs, predecessors of the present; all of -whom they represent to have lived to an old age. Their names and -successions are as follow: - -First, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only son, -called Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea; who had -also an only son, named Papikaneeou. - -Secondly, Neerooagooa had three sons, the eldest named Kahavee; and -Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only son, named Kaowreeka. - -Thirdly, Kahavee had an only son, Kayenewee a mummow; and Kaowreeka, the -Mowee king, had two sons, Maiha-maiha, and Taheeterree; the latter of -whom is now, by one party, acknowledged Chief of Mowee. - -Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two sons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa; and -Maiha-maiha, king of Mowee, had no son, but left a daughter, called -Roaho. - -Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the present king of Owhyhee, had a son named -Teewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha-maiha, late king of Mowee; -and this son has married Roaho, his half sister, in whose right he -claims Mowee and its appendages. - -Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, supported by a considerable -party, who were not willing that the possessions should go into another -family, took up arms, and opposed the rights of his niece. - -When we were first off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors to -support the claims of his wife, his son, and daughter-in-law, and had -fought a battle with the opposite party, in which Taheeterree was -worsted. We afterward understood, that matters had been compromised, and -that Taheeterree is to have the possession of the three neighbouring -islands during his life; that Teewarro is acknowledged the chief of -Mowee, and will also succeed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of -Terreeoboo; and also to the sovereignty of the three islands, contiguous -to Mowee, on the death of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married -to his half sister; and should he die without issue, the government of -these islands descends to Maiha-maiha, whom we have often had occasion -to mention, he being the son of Kaihooa, the deceased brother of -Terreeoboo. Should he also die without issue, they could not tell who -would succeed; for the two youngest sons of Terreeoboo, one of whom he -appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of a woman of no rank, -would, from this circumstance, be debarred all right of succession. We -had not an opportunity of seeing queen Rora-rora, whom Terreeoboo had -left behind at Mowee; but we have already had occasion to take notice, -that he was accompanied by Kanee Kaberaia, the mother of the two youths, -to whom he was very much attached. - -From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it -is pretty clear that the government is hereditary; which also makes it -very probable, that the inferior titles, and property itself, descend in -the same course. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn, that -he is an _Eree-taboo_; that he was invading the possession of -Taheeterree, but on what pretence we were not informed; and that his -grandsons governed the islands to leeward. - -The power of the _Erees_ over the inferior classes of people appears to -be very absolute. Many instances of this occurred daily during our stay -amongst them, and have been already related. The people, on the other -hand, pay them the most implicit obedience; and this state of servility -has manifestly had a great effect in debasing both their minds and -bodies. It is, however, remarkable, that the chiefs were never guilty, -as far at least as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or -injustice, or even of insolent behaviour toward them; though, at the -same time, they exercised their power over one another in the most -haughty and oppressive manner. Of this I shall give two instances. A -chief of the lower order had behaved with great civility to the master -of the ship, when he went to examine Karakakooa bay, the day before the -ship first arrived there; and, in return, I afterward carried him on -board, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to dine with -us. While we were at table, Pareea entered, whose face but too plainly -manifested his indignation, at seeing our guest in so honourable a -situation. He immediately seized him by the hair of the head, and was -proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the captain interfered; -and, after a great deal of altercation, all the indulgence we could -obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was, that our guest -should be suffered to remain, being seated upon the floor, whilst Pareea -filled his place at the table. At another time, when Terreeoboo first -came on board the Resolution, Maiha-maiha, who attended him, finding -Pareea on deck, turned him out of the ship in the most ignominious -manner; and yet Pareea, we certainly knew, to be a man of the first -consequence. - -How far the property of the lower class is secured against the rapacity -and despotism of the great chiefs, I cannot say; but it should seem, -that it is sufficiently protected against private theft, or mutual -depredation. For not only their plantations, which are spread over the -whole country, but also their houses, their hogs, and their cloth, were -left unguarded, without the smallest apprehensions. I have already -remarked, that they not only separate their possessions by walls in the -plain country, but that, in the woods likewise, wherever the -horse-plantains grow, they make use of small white flags, in the same -manner, and for the same purpose of discriminating property, as they do -bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All which circumstances, if they do not -amount to proofs, are strong indications that the power of the chiefs, -where property is concerned, is not arbitrary; but, at least, so far -circumscribed and ascertained, as to make it worth the while for the -inferior orders to cultivate the soil, and to occupy their possessions -distinct from each other. - -With respect to the administration of justice, all the information we -could collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the -lowest class of people had a quarrel amongst themselves, the matter in -dispute was referred to the decision of some chief, probably the chief -of the district, or the person to whom they appertained. If an inferior -chief had given cause of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings -of the latter at the moment seemed the only measure of his punishment. -If he had the good fortune to escape the first transports of his -superior’s rage, he generally found means, through the mediation of some -third person, to compound for his crime by a part or the whole of his -property and effects. These were the only facts that came to our -knowledge on this head. - -The religion of these people resembles, in most of its principal -features, that of the Society and Friendly Islands. Their _Morais_, -their _Whattas_, their idols, their sacrifices, and their sacred songs, -all of which they have in common with each other, are convincing proofs, -that their religious notions are derived from the same source. In the -length and number of their ceremonies, this branch indeed far exceeds -the rest; and, though in all these countries, there is a certain class -of men, to whose care the performance of their religious rights is -committed; yet we had never met with a regular society of priests, till -we discovered the cloisters of Kakooa in Karakakooa Bay. The head of -this order was called _Orono_; a title which we imagined to imply -something highly sacred, and which, in the person of Omeeah, was -honoured almost to adoration. It is probable, that the privilege of -entering into this order (at least as to the principal offices in it), -is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the _Orono_, was the son of -Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea; which last presided, during the -absence of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the _Morai_. -It was also remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only son, about five -years old, was never suffered to appear without a number of attendants, -and such other marks of care and solicitude, as we saw no other like -instance of. This seemed to indicate, that his life was an object of the -greatest moment, and that he was destined to succeed to the high rank of -his father. - -It has been mentioned, that the title of _Orono_, with all its honours, -was given to Captain Cook; and it is also certain, that they regarded -us, generally, as a race of people superior to themselves; and used -often to say, that great _Eatooa_ dwelled in our country. The little -image, which we have before described, as the favourite idol on the -_Morai_ in Karakakooa Bay, they call _Koonooraekaiee_, and said it was -Terreeoboo’s god; and that he also resided amongst us. - -There are found an infinite variety of these images, both on the -_Morais_, and within and without their houses, to which they gave -different names; but it soon became obvious to us in how little -estimation they were held, from their frequent expressions of contempt -of them, and from their even offering them to sale for trifles. At the -same time, there seldom failed to be some one particular figure in -favour, to which, whilst this performance lasted, all their adoration -was addressed. This consisted in arraying it in red cloth; beating their -drums, and singing hymns before it; laying bunches of red feathers, and -different sorts of vegetables, at its feet; and exposing a pig, or a -dog, to rot on the _whatta_ that stood near it. - -In a bay to the southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were -conducted to a large house, in which they found the black figure of a -man, resting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward; -the limbs well formed and exactly proportioned, and the whole -beautifully polished. This figure the natives called _Maee_; and round -it were placed thirteen others of rude and distorted shapes, which they -said were the _Eatooas_ of several deceased chiefs, whose names they -recounted. The place was full of _whattas_, on which lay the remains of -their offerings. They likewise give a place in their houses to many -ludicrous and some obscene idols, like the Priapus of the ancients. - -It hath been remarked, by former voyagers, that both among the Society -and Friendly Islanders, an adoration is paid to particular birds; and I -am led to believe, that the same custom prevails here; and that, -probably, the raven is the object of it, from seeing two of these birds -tame at the village of Kakooa, which they told me were _Eatooas_; and, -refusing every thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the same time, -not to hurt or offend them. - -Amongst their religious ceremonies may be reckoned the prayers and -offerings made by the priests before their meals. Whilst the _ava_ is -chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repast, the -person of the highest rank takes the lead in a sort of hymn, in which he -is presently joined by one, two, or more of the company; the rest moving -their bodies, and striking their hands gently together, in concert with -the singers. When the _ava_ is ready, cups of it are handed about to -those who do not join in the song, which they keep in their hands till -it is ended; when, uniting in one loud response, they drink off their -cup. The performers of the hymn are then served with _ava_, who drink it -after a repetition of the same ceremony; and, if there be present one of -a very superior rank, a cup is, last of all, presented to him, which, -after chanting some time alone, and being answered by the rest, and -pouring a little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the flesh -that is dressed is next cut off, without any selection of the part of -the animal; which, together with some of the vegetables, being deposited -at the foot of the image of the _Eatooa_, and a hymn chanted, their meal -commences. A ceremony of much the same kind is also performed by the -chiefs, whenever they drink _ava_, between their meals. - -Human sacrifices are more frequent here, according to the account of the -natives themselves, than in any other islands we visited. These horrid -rites are not only had recourse to upon the commencement of war and -preceding great battles, and other signal enterprizes; but the death of -any considerable chief calls for a sacrifice of one or more _Towtows_, -according to his rank; and we were told, that ten men were destined to -suffer on the death of Terreeoboo. What may (if any thing possibly can) -lessen, in some small degree, the horror of this practice, is, that the -unhappy victims have not the most distant intimation of their fate. -Those who are fixed upon to fall, are set upon with clubs wherever they -happen to be; and, after being dispatched, are brought dead to the place -where the remainder of the rites are completed. The reader will here -call to his remembrance the skulls of the captives, that had been -sacrificed at the death of some great chief, and which were fixed on the -rails round the top of the _Morai_ at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of -intelligence upon this subject at the village of Kowrowa; where, on our -inquiring into the use of a small piece of ground, inclosed with a stone -fence, we were told that it was an _Here-eere_, or burying-ground of a -chief; and there, added our informer, pointing to one of the corners, -lie the _tangata_ and _waheene taboo_, or the man and woman who were -sacrificed at his funeral. - -To this class of their customs may also be referred that of knocking out -their fore-teeth. Scarce any of the lower people, and very few of the -chiefs, were seen, who had not lost one or more of them; and we always -understood, that this voluntary punishment, like the cutting off the -joints of the finger at the Friendly Islands, was not inflicted on -themselves from the violence of grief, on the death of their friends, -but was designed as a propitiatory sacrifice to the _Eatooa_, to avert -any danger or mischief to which they might be exposed. - -We were able to learn but little of their notions with regard to a -future state. Whenever we asked them, whither the dead were gone? we -were always answered, that the breath, which they appeared to consider -as the soul, or immortal part, was gone to the _Eatooa_; and, on pushing -our inquiries farther, they seemed to describe some particular place, -where they imagined the abode of the deceased to be; but we could not -perceive, that they thought, in this state, either rewards or -punishments awaited them. - -Having promised the reader, in the first chapter, an explanation of what -was meant by the word _taboo_, I shall, in this place, lay before him -the particular instances that fell under our observation, of its -application and effects. On our inquiring into the reasons of the -interdiction of all intercourse between us and the natives, the day -preceding the arrival of Terreeoboo, we were told, that the bay was -_tabooed_. The same restriction took place at our request, the day we -interred the bones of Captain Cook. In these two instances the natives -paid the most implicit and scrupulous obedience; but whether on any -religious principle, or merely in deference to the civil authority of -their chiefs, I cannot determine. When the ground near our -observatories, and the place where our masts lay, were _tabooed_, by -sticking small wands round them, this operated in a manner not less -efficacious. But though this mode of consecration was performed by the -priests only, yet still, as the men ventured to come within the space, -when invited by us, it should seem, that they were under no religious -apprehensions; and that their obedience was limited to our refusal only. -The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us; but this was -probably on account of the _Morai_ adjoining; which they are prohibited, -at all times, and in all the islands of those seas, from approaching. -Mention hath been already made, that women are always _tabooed_, or -forbidden to eat certain kind of meats. We also frequently saw several -at their meals, who had the meat put into their mouths by others; and, -on our asking the reason of this singularity, were told that they were -_tabooed_ or forbidden to feed themselves. This prohibition, we -understood, was always laid on them, after they had assisted at any -funeral, or touched a dead body, and also on other occasions. It is -necessary to observe, that, on these occasions, they apply the word -_taboo_ indifferently both to persons and things. Thus they say, the -natives were _tabooed_, or the bay was _tabooed_, and so of the rest. -This word is also used to express any thing sacred, or eminent, or -devoted. Thus the king of Owhyhee was called _Eree-taboo_; a human -victim _tangata-taboo_; and, in the same manner, among the Friendly -Islanders, Tonga, the island where the king resides, is named -_Tonga-taboo_. - -Concerning their marriages, I can afford the reader little farther -satisfaction than informing him that such a relation or compact exists -amongst them. I have already had occasion to mention, that at the time -Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora-rora at Mowee, he was attended by -another woman, by whom he had children, and to whom he was very much -attached; but how far polygamy, properly speaking, is allowed, or how -far it is mixed with concubinage, either with respect to the king, the -chiefs, or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to our -knowledge to justify any conclusions. It hath also been observed, that, -except Kainee Kabareea, and the wife of the Orono, with three women whom -I shall have occasion hereafter to mention, we never saw any female of -high rank. - -From what I had an opportunity of observing of the domestic concerns of -the lowest class, the house seemed to be under the direction of one man -and woman, and the children in the like state of subordination as in -civilized countries. - -It will not be improper in this place to take notice, that we were -eye-witnesses of a fact, which, as it was the only instance we saw of -any thing like jealousy among them, shows at the same time that not only -fidelity but a degree of reserve is required from the married women of -consequence. At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeeah was observed -to rise from his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with -strong marks of displeasure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his -manner, to withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handsome he thought -she drew too much of our attention; or without being able to determine -what other reason he might have for his conduct, it is but justice to -say that there existed no real cause of jealousy. However, she kept her -place; and when the entertainment was over joined our party, and -soliciting some trifling presents, was given to understand that we had -none about us, but that if she would accompany us toward our tent she -should return with such as she liked best. She was accordingly walking -along with us, which Omeeah observing, followed in a violent rage, and -seizing her by the hair began to inflict with his fists a severe -corporal punishment. This sight, especially as we had innocently been -the cause of it, gave us much concern, and yet we were told that it -would be highly improper to interfere between man and wife of such high -rank. We were, however, not left without the consolation of seeing the -natives at last interpose; and had the farther satisfaction of meeting -them together the next day, in perfect good humour with each other; and -what is still more singular, the lady would not suffer us to remonstrate -with her husband on his treatment of her, which we were much inclined to -do, and plainly told us that he had done no more than he ought. - -Whilst I was ashore at the observatory at Karakakooa Bay, I had twice an -opportunity of seeing a considerable part of their funeral rites. -Intelligence was brought me of the death of an old chief in a house near -our observatories, soon after the event happened. On going to the place, -I found a number of people assembled and seated round a square _area_, -fronting the house in which the deceased lay, whilst a man in a -red-feathered cap advanced from an interior part of the house to the -door, and putting out his head, at almost every moment uttered a most -lamentable howl, accompanied with the most singular grimaces and violent -distortions of his face that can be conceived. After this had passed a -short time, a large mat was spread upon the _area_, and two men and -thirteen women came out of the house and seated themselves down upon it, -in three equal rows, the two men and three of the women being in front. -The necks and hands of the women were decorated with feathered ruffs, -and broad green leaves, curiously scolloped, were spread over their -shoulders. At one corner of this _area_, near a small hut, were half a -dozen boys waving small white banners, and the tufted wands or _taboo_ -sticks which have been often mentioned in the former chapters, who would -not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine that the dead -body might be deposited in this little hut; but I afterward understood -that it was in the house where the man in the red cap opened the rites, -by playing his tricks at the door. The company just mentioned being -seated on the mat, began to sing a melancholy tune, accompanied with a -slow and gentle motion of the body and arms. When this had continued -some time, they raised themselves on their knees, and in a posture -between kneeling and sitting, began by degrees to move their arms and -their bodies with great rapidity, the tune always keeping pace with -their motions. As these last exertions were too violent to continue -long, they resumed at intervals their slower movements; and after this -performance had lasted an hour, more mats were brought and spread upon -the _area_, and four or five elderly women, amongst whom I was told was -the dead chief’s wife, advanced slowly out of the house, and seating -themselves in the front of the first company, began to cry and wail most -bitterly, the women in the three rows behind joining them, whilst the -two men inclined their heads over them in a very melancholy and pensive -attitude. At this period of the rites, I was obliged to leave them to -attend at the observatory, but returning within half an hour found them -in the same situation. I continued with them till late in the evening, -and left them proceeding with little variation, as just described, -resolving, however, to attend early in the morning to see the remainder -of the ceremony. On my arrival at the house, as soon as it was day, I -found to my mortification the crowd dispersed and every thing quiet, and -was given to understand that the corpse was removed, nor could I learn -in what manner it was disposed of. I was interrupted in making farther -inquiries for this purpose by the approach of three women of rank, who, -whilst their attendants stood near them with their fly-flaps, sat down -by us, and entering into conversation soon made me comprehend that our -presence was a hindrance to the performance of some necessary rites. I -had hardly got out of sight before I heard their cries and lamentations; -and meeting them a few hours afterward, I found they had painted the -lower part of their faces perfect black. - -The other opportunity I had of observing these ceremonies was in the -case of an ordinary person, when, on hearing some mournful female cries -issue from a miserable-looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old -woman with her daughter weeping over the body of an elderly man who had -but just expired, being still warm. The first step they took was to -cover the body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the -cloth over themselves, and then began a mournful kind of song, -frequently repeating, _Aweh medoaah!_ _Aweh tanee!_ Oh my father! Oh my -husband! A younger daughter was also at the same time lying prostrate in -a corner of the house, covered over with black cloth, repeating the same -words. On leaving this melancholy scene, I found at the door a number of -their neighbours collected together, and listening to their cries with -profound silence. I was resolved not to miss this opportunity of seeing -in what manner they dispose of the body; and therefore, after satisfying -myself before I went to bed that it was not then removed, I gave orders -that the sentries should walk backward and forward before the house, and -in case they suspected any measures were taking for the removal of the -body, to give me immediate notice. However, the sentries had not kept a -good look-out, for in the morning I found the body was gone. On -inquiring what they had done with it? they pointed toward the sea, -indicating most probably thereby that it had been committed to the deep, -or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the bay, to some -burying-ground in another part of the country. The chiefs are interred -in the _Morais_, or _Heree-erees_, with the men sacrificed on the -occasion by the side of them; and we observed that the _Morai_ where the -chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in -the cave after so stout a resistance, was hung round with red cloth. - - - - - BOOK VI. - -TRANSACTIONS DURING THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH, BY THE WAY OF - KAMTSCHATKA; AND ON THE RETURN HOME, BY THE WAY OF CANTON AND THE CAPE - OF GOOD HOPE. - - - - - CHAP. I. - -DEPARTURE FROM ONEEHEOW.—FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO DISCOVER MODOOPAPAPPA.— - COURSE STEERED FOR AWATSKA BAY.—OCCURRENCES DURING THAT PASSAGE.— - SUDDEN CHANGE FROM HEAT TO COLD.—DISTRESS OCCASIONED BY THE LEAKING OF - THE RESOLUTION.—VIEW OF THE COAST OF KAMTSCHATKA.—EXTREME RIGOUR OF - THE CLIMATE.—LOSE SIGHT OF THE DISCOVERY.—THE RESOLUTION ENTERS THE - BAY OF AWATSK.—PROSPECT OF THE TOWN OF SAINT PETER AND SAINT PAUL.— - PARTY SENT ASHORE.—THEIR RECEPTION BY THE COMMANDING OFFICER OF THE - PORT.—MESSAGE DISPATCHED TO THE COMMANDER AT BOLCHERETSK.—ARRIVAL OF - THE DISCOVERY.—RETURN OF THE MESSENGERS FROM THE COMMANDER.— - EXTRAORDINARY MODE OF TRAVELLING.—VISIT FROM A MERCHANT, AND A GERMAN - SERVANT BELONGING TO THE COMMANDER. - - -On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and -passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to the south-west, in hopes of -falling in with the island of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the -natives, lay in that direction, about five hours sail from Tahoora. At -four in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a stout canoe, with ten men, -who were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war -birds, with which that place was said to abound. It has been mentioned -before, that the feathers of these birds are in great request, being -much used in making their cloaks, and other ornamental parts of their -dress. - -At eight, having seen nothing of the island, we hauled the wind to the -northward, till midnight, and then tacked, and stood on a wind to the -south-east, till day-light next morning, at which time Tahoora bore east -north-east, five or six leagues distant. We afterward steered west -south-west, and made the Discovery’s signal to spread four miles upon -our starboard beam. At noon, our latitude was 21° 27ʹ, and our longitude -198° 42ʹ; and having stood on till five in the same direction, we made -the Discovery’s signal to come under our stern, and gave over all hopes -of seeing Modoopapappa. We conceived, that it might probably lie in a -more southerly direction from Tahoora, than that in which we had -steered; though, after all, it is possible, that we might have passed it -in the night, as the islanders described it to be very small, and almost -even with the surface of the sea. - -The next day, we steered west; it being Captain Clerke’s intention to -keep as near as possible in the same parallel of latitude, till we -should make the longitude of Awatska Bay, and afterward to steer due -north for the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay; which -was also appointed for our rendezvous, in case of separation. This track -was chosen on account of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored; and -we were not without hopes of falling in with some new islands on our -passage. - -We had scarcely seen a bird, since our losing sight of Tahoora, till the -18th in the afternoon, when, being in the latitude of 21° 12ʹ, and the -longitude of 194° 45ʹ, the appearance of a great many boobies, and some -man-of-war birds, made us keep a sharp look-out for land. Toward -evening, the wind lessened, and the north-east swell, which, on the 16th -and 17th, had been so heavy as to make the ships labour exceedingly, was -much abated. The next day, we saw no appearance of land; and at noon, we -steered a point more to the southward, viz. west by south, in the hopes -of finding the trade-winds (which blew almost invariably from the east -by north) fresher as we advanced within the tropic. It is somewhat -singular, that though we saw no birds in the forenoon, yet toward -evening we had again a number of boobies and man-of-war birds about us. -This seemed to indicate, that we had passed the land from whence the -former flights had come, and that we were approaching some other low -island. - -The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when -it freshened from the north-east by east, and increased to a strong -gale, which split some of our old sails, and made the running rigging -very frequently give way. This gale lasted twelve hours; it then became -more moderate, and continued so, till the 25th at noon, when we entirely -lost it, and had only a very light air. - -On the 26th in the morning, we thought we saw land to the west -south-west, but, after running about sixteen leagues in that direction, -we found our mistake; and night coming on, we again steered west. Our -latitude, at this time, was 19° 45ʹ, which was the greatest southing we -made in this run; our longitude was 183°, and variation 12° 45ʹ E. We -continued in this course, with little alteration in the wind, till the -29th, when it shifted to the south-east and south south-east, and, for a -few hours in the night, it was in the west; the weather being dark and -cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for some days past, several turtles, -one of which was the smallest I ever saw, not exceeding three inches in -length. We were also accompanied by man-of-war birds, and boobies of an -unusual kind, being quite white (except the tip of the wing, which was -black), and easily mistaken, at first sight, for gannets. - -The light winds which we had met with for some time past, with the -present unsettled state of the weather, and the little appearance of any -change for the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of -keeping within the tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at six this -evening, we began to steer north-west by north, at which time our -latitude was 20° 23ʹ, and our longitude 180° 40ʹ. During the continuance -of the light winds, which prevailed almost constantly ever since our -departure from the Sandwich Islands, the weather was very close, and the -air hot and sultry; the thermometer being generally at 80°, and -sometimes at 83°. All this time, we had a considerable swell from the -north-east; and in no period of the voyage did the ships roll and strain -so violently. - -In the morning of the 1st of April, the wind changed from the south-east -to the north-east by east, and blew a fresh breeze, till the morning of -the 4th, when it altered two points more to the east, and by noon -increased to a strong gale, which lasted till the afternoon of the 5th, -attended with hazy weather. It then again altered its direction to the -south-east, became more moderate, and was accompanied by heavy showers -of rain. During all this time, we kept steering to the north-west, -against a slow but regular current from that quarter, which caused a -constant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen miles a -day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 26° 17ʹ, and longitude 173° -30ʹ, we passed prodigious quantities of what sailors call Portuguese -men-of-war (_holothuria physalis_), and were also accompanied with a -great number of sea birds, amongst which we observed, for the first -time, the albatross and sheerwater. - -On the 6th, at noon, we lost the trade-wind, and were suddenly taken -a-back, with the wind from the north north-west. At this time, our -latitude was 29° 50ʹ, and our longitude 170° 1ʹ. As the old -running-ropes were constantly breaking in the late gales, we reeved what -new ones we had left, and made such other preparations, as were -necessary for the very different climate with which we were now shortly -to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the tropics, had not -been idly spent. The carpenters found sufficient employment in repairing -the boats. The best bower-cable had been so much damaged by the foul -ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilst we were at anchor off Oneeheow, -that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it; in converting of -which, with other old cordage, into spun-yarn, and applying it to -different uses, a considerable part of the people were kept constantly -employed by the boatswain. The airing of sails and other stores, which, -from the leakiness of the decks and sides of the ships, were perpetually -subject to be wet, had now become a frequent as well as a laborious and -troublesome part of our duty. - -Besides these cares, which had regard only to the ships themselves, -there were others, which had for their object the preservation of the -health of the crews, that furnished a constant occupation to a great -number of our hands. The standing orders, established by Captain Cook, -of airing the bedding, placing fires between decks, washing them with -vinegar, and smoking them with gunpowder, were observed without any -intermission. For some time past, even the operation of mending the -sailors’ old jackets had risen into a duty both of difficulty and -importance. It may be necessary to inform those who are unacquainted -with the disposition and habits of seamen, that they are so accustomed -in ships of war to be directed in the care of themselves by their -officers, that they lose the very idea of foresight, and contract the -thoughtlessness of infants. I am sure, that if our people had been left -to their own discretion alone, we should have had the whole crew naked, -before the voyage had been half finished. It was natural to expect that -their experience, during our voyage to the north last year, would have -made them sensible of the necessity of paying some attention to these -matters; but if such reflections ever occurred to them, their impression -was so transitory, that, upon our return to the tropical climates, their -fur jackets, and the rest of their cold country clothes, were kicked -about the decks as things of no value; though it was generally known, in -both ships, that we were to make another voyage toward the pole. They -were, of course, picked up by the officers; and, being put into casks, -restored about this time to the owners. - -In the afternoon, we observed some of the sheathing floating by the -ship; and, on examination, found that twelve or fourteen feet had been -washed off from under the larboard-bow, where we supposed the leak to -have been, which, ever since our leaving Sandwich Islands, had kept the -people almost constantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an -hour. This day we saw a number of small crabs, of a pale blue colour; -and had again, in company, a few albatrosses and sheerwaters. The -thermometer, in the night-time, sunk eleven degrees; and although it -still remained as high as 59°, yet we suffered much from the cold; our -feelings being, as yet, by no means reconciled to that degree of -temperature. - -The wind continued blowing fresh from the north, till the eighth, in the -morning, when it became more moderate, with fair weather, and gradually -changed its direction to the east, and afterward to the south. - -On the ninth, at noon, our latitude was 32° 16ʹ; our longitude 166° 40ʹ; -and the variation 8° 30ʹ E. And on the tenth, having crossed the track -of the Spanish galleons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to -have fallen in with the Island of Rica de Plata, which, according to De -Lisle’s chart, in which the route of those ships is laid down, ought to -have been in sight; its latitude, as there given, being 33° 30ʹ N., and -its longitude 166° E. Notwithstanding we were so far advanced to the -northward, we saw this day a tropic bird, and also several other kinds -of sea-birds; such as puffins, sea-parrots, sheerwaters, and -albatrosses. - -On the eleventh, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 30ʹ, longitude 165° -45ʹ; and during the course of the day, had sea-birds, as before, and -passed several bunches of sea-weed. About the same time, the Discovery -passed a log of wood; but no other signs of land were seen. - -The next day the wind came gradually round to the east, and increased to -so strong a gale, as obliged us to strike our top-gallant yards, and -brought us under the lower sails, and the main top-sail close reefed. -Unfortunately we were upon that tack, which was the most disadvantageous -for our leak. But, as we had always been able to keep it under with the -hand-pumps, it gave us no great uneasiness, till the 13th, about six in -the afternoon, when we were greatly alarmed by a sudden inundation, that -deluged the whole space between decks. The water, which had lodged in -the coal-hole, not finding a sufficient vent into the well, had forced -up the platforms over it, and in a moment set every thing afloat. Our -situation was indeed exceedingly distressing; nor did we immediately see -any means of relieving ourselves. A pump, through the upper decks into -the coal-hole, could answer no end, as it would very soon have been -choked up by the small coals; and, to bale the water out with buckets, -was become impracticable, from the number of bulky materials that were -washed out of the gunner’s store-room into it, and which, by the ship’s -motion, were tossed violently from side to side. No other method was -therefore left, but to cut a hole through the bulk-head (or partition) -that separated the coal hole from the fore-hold, and by that means to -make a passage for the body of water into the well. However, before that -it could be done, it was necessary to get the casks of dry provisions -out of the fore-hold, which kept us employed the greatest part of the -night; so that the carpenters could not get at the partition till the -next morning. As soon as a passage was made, the greatest part of the -water emptied itself into the well, and enabled us to get out the rest -with buckets. But the leak was now so much increased, that we were -obliged to keep one half of the people constantly pumping and baleing, -till the noon of the 15th. Our men bore, with great cheerfulness, this -excessive fatigue, which was much increased by their having no dry place -to sleep in; and, on this account, we began to serve their full -allowance of grog. - -The weather now becoming more moderate, and the swell less heavy, we -were enabled to clear away the rest of the casks from the fore-hold, and -to open a sufficient passage for the water to the pumps. This day we saw -a greenish piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we -sounded, but got no bottom with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line. Our -latitude, at noon this day, was 41° 52ʹ, longitude 161° 15ʹ; variation -6° 30ʹ east; and the wind soon after veering to the northward, we -altered our course three points to the west. - -On the 16th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 42° 12ʹ, and in the -longitude of 160° 5ʹ; and as we were now approaching the place where a -great extent of land is said to have been seen by De Gama, we were glad -of the opportunity which the course we were steering gave, of -contributing to remove the doubts, if any should be still entertained, -respecting the falsehood of this pretended discovery. For it is to be -observed, that no one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama -was, when he lived, or what year this pretended discovery was made. - -According to Mr. Muller, the first account of it given to the public was -in a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649, who -places it in ten or twelve degrees to the north-east of Japan, between -the latitudes of 44° and 45°; and announces it to be _land seen by John -de Gama, the Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain_. On what -grounds the French geographers have since removed it five degrees to the -eastward, does not appear; except we suppose it to have been in order to -make room for another discovery of the same kind made by the Dutch, -called _Company’s Land_; of which we shall have occasion to speak -hereafter. - -During the whole day, the wind was exceedingly unsettled, being seldom -steady to two or three points; and blowing in fresh gusts, which were -succeeded by dead calms. These were not unpromising appearances; but, -after standing off and on, the whole of this day, without seeing any -thing of the land, we again steered to the northward, not thinking it -worth our while to lose time in search of an object, the opinion of -whose existence had been already pretty generally exploded. Our people -were employed the whole of the 16th, in getting their wet things to dry, -and in airing the ship below. - -We now began to feel very sharply the increasing inclemency of the -northern climate. In the morning of the 18th, our latitude being 45° -40ʹ, and our longitude 160° 25ʹ, we had snow and sleet, accompanied with -strong gales from the south-west. This circumstance will appear very -remarkable, if we consider the season of the year, and the quarter from -which the wind blew. On the 19th, the thermometer, in the day-time, -remained at the freezing point, and at four in the morning fell to 29°. -If the reader will take the trouble to compare the degree of heat, -during the hot sultry weather we had at the beginning of this month, -with the extreme cold which we now endured, he will conceive how -severely so rapid a change must have been felt by us. - -In the gale of the 18th, we had split almost all the sails we had bent, -which being our second best suit, we were now reduced to make use of our -last and best set. To add to Captain Clerke’s difficulties, the sea was -in general so rough, and the ships so leaky, that the sail-makers had no -place to repair the sails in, except his apartments, which, in his -declining state of health, was a serious inconvenience to him. - -On the 20th, at noon, being in latitude 49° 45ʹ N. and longitude 161° -15ʹ E.; and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coast of Asia, the -wind shifted suddenly to the north, and continued in the same quarter -the following day. However, although it retarded our progress, yet the -fair weather it brought was no small refreshment to us. In the forenoon -of the 21st, we saw a whale, and a land-bird; and, in the afternoon, the -water looking muddy, we sounded, but got no ground with an hundred and -forty fathoms of line. During the three preceding days, we saw large -flocks of wild-fowl, of a species resembling ducks. This is usually -considered as a proof of the vicinity of land; but we had no other signs -of it, since the 16th; in which time we had run upward of an hundred and -fifty leagues. - -On the 22d, the wind shifted to the north-east, attended with misty -weather. The cold was exceedingly severe, and the ropes were so frozen, -that it was with difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At -noon, the latitude, by account, was 51° 38ʹ, longitude 160° 7ʹ; and on -comparing our present position with that given to the southern parts of -Kamtschatka, in the Russian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it -prudent to run on toward the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten; -and, having sounded, had ground agreeably to our conjectures, with -seventy fathoms of line. - -On the 23d, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52° 09ʹ, and -longitude 160° 07ʹ, on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in -mountains covered with snow; and extending from north three quarters -east, to south-west, a high conical rock, bearing south-west, three -quarters west, at three or four leagues distance. We had no sooner taken -this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog. Being -now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of -Awatska Bay, as soon as the weather cleared up, we stood in to take a -nearer view of the land; and a more dismal and dreary prospect I never -beheld. The coast appears straight and uniform, having no inlets or -bays; the ground, from the shore, rises in hills of a moderate -elevation, behind which are ranges of mountains, whose summits were lost -in the clouds. The whole scene was entirely covered with snow, except -the sides of some of the cliffs, which rose too abruptly from the sea -for the snow to lie upon them. - -The wind continued blowing very strong from the north-east, with thick -hazy weather and sleet, from the 24th till the 28th. During the whole -time, the thermometer was never higher than 30-1/2°. The ship appeared -to be a complete mass of ice; the shrowds were so incrusted with it, as -to measure in circumference more than double their usual size; and, in -short, the experience of the oldest seaman among us, had never met with -any thing like the continued showers of sleet, and the extreme cold, -which we now encountered. Indeed, the severity of the weather, added to -the great difficulty of working the ships, and the labour of keeping the -pumps constantly going, rendered the service too hard for many of the -crew, some of whom were frost-bitten, and others laid up with bad colds. -We continued all this time standing four hours on each tack, having -generally soundings of sixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the -land; but none at twice that distance. On the 25th, we had a transient -view of the entrance of Awatska Bay; but, in the present state of the -weather, we were afraid of venturing into it. Upon our standing off -again, we lost sight of the Discovery; but, as we were now so near the -place of rendezvous, this gave us no great uneasiness. - -On the 28th, in the morning, the weather at last cleared, and the wind -fell to a light breeze from the same quarter as before. We had a fine -warm day, and as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in -breaking the ice from off the rigging, masts, and sails, in order to -prevent its falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 52° -44ʹ, and the longitude of 159°, the entrance of Awatska Bay bore -north-west, distant three or four leagues; and about three in the -afternoon a fair wind sprung up from the southward, with which we stood -in, having regular soundings from twenty-two to seven fathoms. - -The mouth of the bay opens in a north-north-west direction. The land on -the south side is of a moderate height; to the northward it rises into a -bluff head, which is the highest part of the coast. In the channel -between them, near the north-east side, lie three remarkable rocks; and -farther in, near the opposite coast, a single detached rock of a -considerable size. On the north head there is a look-out house, which, -when the Russians expect any of their ships upon the coast, is used as a -light-house. There was a flag-staff on it, but we saw no sign of any -person being there. - -Having passed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we -opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference, and -at half past four came to an anchor in six fathoms’ water, being afraid -of running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said by -Muller[17] to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. -Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the -tide, but the shores were still entirely blocked up with it. Great -flocks of wild-fowl were seen of various species; likewise ravens, -eagles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. We examined every corner -of the bay with our glasses, in search of the town of St. Peter and St. -Paul, which, according to the accounts given us at Oonalashka, we had -conceived to be a place of some strength and consideration. At length we -discovered on a narrow point of land to the north-north-east a few -miserable log-houses and some conical huts, raised on poles, amounting -in all to about thirty, which from their situation, notwithstanding all -the respect we wished to entertain for a Russian _ostrog_, we were under -the necessity of concluding to be Petropaulowska. However, in justice to -the generous and hospitable treatment we found here, I shall beg leave -to anticipate the reader’s curiosity, by assuring him that our -disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious nature. -For in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond every thing -that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and as it were -out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice and covered -with summer snow, in a poor miserable port far inferior to the meanest -of our fishing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a -greatness of mind and elevation of sentiment, which would have done -honour to any nation or climate. - -[Illustration: _View of Karakakooa in Owhyhee._] - -During the night, much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light -I was sent with the boats to examine the bay, and deliver the letters we -had brought from Oonalashka to the Russian commander. We directed our -course toward the village I have just mentioned; and having proceeded as -far as we were able, with the boats, we got upon the ice, which extended -near half a mile from the shore. Mr. Webber and two of the seamen -accompanied me, whilst the master took the pinnace and cutter to finish -the survey, leaving the jolly-boat behind to carry us back. - -I believe the inhabitants had not yet seen either the ship or the boats, -for even after we had got on the ice we could not perceive any signs of -a living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way -on the ice, we observed a few men hurrying backward and forward, and -presently after a sledge drawn by dogs, with one of the inhabitants in -it, came down to the sea-side, opposite to us. Whilst we were gazing at -this unusual sight, and admiring the great civility of this stranger -which we imagined had brought him to our assistance, the man, after -viewing us for some time very attentively, turned short round and went -off with great speed toward the _ostrog_. We were not less chagrined -than disappointed at this abrupt departure, as we began to find our -journey over the ice attended not only with great difficulty but even -with danger. We sunk at every step almost knee-deep in the snow, and -though we found tolerable footing at the bottom, yet the weak parts of -the ice not being discoverable, we were constantly exposed to the risk -of breaking through it. This accident at last actually happened to -myself; for stepping on quickly over a suspicious spot, in order to -press with less weight upon it, I came upon a second before I could stop -myself, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily I rose clear of the -ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook throwing it -to me, I laid it across some loose pieces near me, and by that means was -enabled to get upon firm ice again. - -As we approached the shore we found the ice, contrary to our -expectations, more broken than it had been before. We were, however, -again comforted by the sight of another sledge coming toward us, but -instead of proceeding to our relief the driver stopt short, and began to -call out to us. I immediately held up to him Ismyloff’s letters; upon -which he turned about and set off back again full speed, followed, I -believe, not with the prayers of any of our party. Being at a great loss -what conclusions to draw from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued -our march toward the _ostrog_ with great circumspection, and when we had -arrived within a quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body of armed -men marching toward us. That we might give them as little alarm and have -as peaceable an appearance as possible, the two men who had boat-hooks -in their hands were ordered into the rear, and Mr. Webber and myself -marched in front. The Russian party, consisting of about thirty -soldiers, was headed by a decent-looking person, with a cane in his -hand. He halted within a few yards of us, and drew up his men in a -martial and good order. I delivered to him Ismyloff’s letters, and -endeavoured to make him understand, as well as I could (though I -afterward found in vain), that we were English, and had brought them -papers from Oonalashka. After having examined us attentively, he began -to conduct us toward the village in great silence and solemnity, -frequently halting his men to form them in different manners, and making -them perform several parts of their manual exercise, probably with a -view to show us that if we had the temerity to offer any violence, we -should have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their business. - -Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, shivering with cold and -sufficiently inclined to the most unconditional submission, without -having my fears violently alarmed, yet it was impossible not to be -diverted with this military parade, notwithstanding it was attended with -the most unseasonable delay. At length we arrived at the house of the -commanding officer of the party, into which we were ushered, and after -no small stir in giving orders, and disposing of the military without -doors, our host made his appearance, accompanied by another person, whom -we understood to be the secretary of the port. One of Ismyloff’s letters -was now opened, and the other sent off by a special messenger to -Bolcheretsk, a town on the west side of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, -where the Russian commander of this province usually resides. - -It is very remarkable that they had not seen the ship the preceding day, -when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning till our -boats were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the discovery had -struck them we found had been very considerable. The garrison was -immediately put under arms. Two small field-pieces were placed at the -entrance of the commander’s house, and pointed toward our boats, and -shot, powder, and lighted matches were all ready at hand. - -The officer in whose house we were at present entertained was a -serjeant, and the commander of the _ostrog_. Nothing could exceed the -kindness and hospitality of his behaviour, after he had recovered from -the alarm occasioned by our arrival. We found the house insufferably -hot, but exceedingly neat and clean. After I had changed my clothes, -which the serjeant’s civility enabled me to do by furnishing me with a -complete suit of his own, we were invited to sit down to dinner, which I -have no doubt was the best he could procure, and considering the -shortness of time he had to provide it, was managed with some ingenuity. -As there was not time to prepare soup and _bouilli_, we had in their -stead some cold beef sliced, with hot water poured over it. We had next -a large bird roasted, of a species with which I was unacquainted, but of -a very excellent taste. After having eaten a part of this it was taken -off, and we were served with fish dressed two different ways, and soon -after the bird again made its appearance, in savoury and sweet _pâtés_. -Our liquor, of which I shall have to speak hereafter, was of the kind -called by the Russians _quass_, and was much the worse part of the -entertainment. The serjeant’s wife brought in several of the dishes -herself, and was not permitted to sit down at table. Having finished our -repast, during which it is hardly necessary to remark that our -conversation was confined to a few bows, and other signs of mutual -respect, we endeavoured to open to our host the cause and objects of our -visit to this port. As Ismyloff had probably written to them on the same -subject in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily -to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the -place that could talk any other language except Russian or -Kamtschatdale, we found the utmost difficulty in comprehending the -information he meant to convey to us. After some time spent in these -endeavours to understand one another, we conceived the sum of the -intelligence we had procured to be, that though no supply either of -provisions or naval stores were to be had at this place, yet that these -articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretsk. That the commander would -most probably be very willing to give us what we wanted; but that till -the serjeant had received orders from him, neither he nor his people, -nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the ship. - -It was now time for us to take our leave, and as my clothes were still -too wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourse again to the -serjeant’s benevolence, for his leave to carry those I had borrowed of -him on board. This request was complied with very cheerfully, and a -sledge drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for -each of our party. The sailors were highly delighted with this mode of -conveyance; and what diverted them still more was, that the two -boat-hooks had also a sledge appropriated to themselves. These sledges -are so light, and their construction so well adapted to the purposes for -which they are intended, that they went with great expedition and -perfect safety over the ice, which it would have been impossible for us -with all our caution to have passed on foot. - -On our return we found the boats towing the ship toward the village, and -at seven we got close to the ice, and moored with the small bower to the -north-east and best bower to the south-west, the entrance of the bay -bearing south by east and south three quarters east, and the _ostrog_ -north one quarter east, distant one mile and a half. The next morning -the casks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in order to lighten -the ship forward, and the carpenters were set to work to stop the leak, -which had given us so much trouble during our last run. It was found to -have been occasioned by the falling of some sheathing from the -larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been washed out. -The warm weather we had in the middle of the day began to make the ice -break away very fast, which drifting with the tide had almost filled up -the entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their visits to -the serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility; and -Captain Clerke sent him two bottles of rum, which he understood would be -the most acceptable present he could make him, and received in return -some fine fowls of the grouse kind, and twenty trouts. Our sportsmen met -with but bad success; for though the bay swarmed with flocks of ducks of -various kinds and Greenland pigeons, yet they were so shy that they -could not come within shot of them. - -In the morning of the 1st of May, seeing the Discovery standing into the -bay, a boat was immediately sent to her assistance, and in the afternoon -she moored close by us. They told us that after the weather cleared up -on the 28th, the day on which she had parted company, they found -themselves to leeward of the bay, and that when they got abreast of it -the following day and saw the entrance choked up with ice, they stood -off after firing guns, concluding we could not be here; but finding -afterward it was only loose drift-ice, they had ventured in. The next -day the weather was so very unsettled, attended with heavy showers of -snow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The -thermometer stood at 28° in the evening, and the frost was exceedingly -severe in the night. - -The following morning, on our observing two sledges drive into the -village, Captain Clerke sent me on shore to inquire whether any message -was arrived from the commander of Kamtschatka, which, according to the -serjeant’s account, might now be expected, in consequence of the -intelligence that had been sent of our arrival. Bolcheretsk by the usual -route is about one hundred and thirty-five English miles from St. Peter -and St. Paul’s. Our dispatches were sent off in a sledge drawn by dogs, -on the 29th about noon. And the answer arrived, as we afterward found, -early this morning, so that they were only a little more than three days -and a half in performing a journey of two hundred and seventy miles. - -The return of the commander’s answer was, however, concealed from us for -the present, and I was told on my arrival at the serjeant’s, that we -should hear from him the next day. Whilst I was on shore the boat which -had brought me, together with another belonging to the Discovery, were -set fast in the ice, which a southerly wind had driven from the other -side of the bay. On seeing them entangled, the Discovery’s launch had -been sent to their assistance, but soon shared the same fate, and in a -short time the ice had surrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. -This obliged us to stay on shore till evening, when finding no prospect -of getting the boats off, some of us went in sledges to the edge of the -ice, and were taken off by boats sent from the ship, and the rest staid -on shore all night. - -It continued to freeze hard during the night, but before morning on the -4th a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and set the boats at -liberty, without their having sustained the smallest damage. - -About ten o’clock in the forenoon, we saw several sledges driving down -the edge of the ice, and sent a boat to conduct the persons who were in -them on board. One of these was a Russian merchant from Bolcheretsk -named Fedositsch, and the other a German called Port, who had brought a -letter from Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, to Captain Clerke. -When they got to the edge of the ice, and saw distinctly the size of the -ships which lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared -to be exceedingly alarmed, and before they would venture to embark, -desired two of our boat’s crew might be left on shore as hostages for -their safety. We afterward found that Ismyloff, in his letter to the -commander, had misrepresented us, for what reasons we could not -conceive, as two small trading boats; and that the serjeant, who had -only seen the ships at a distance, had not in his dispatches rectified -the mistake. - -When they arrived on board, we still found, from their cautious and -timorous behaviour, that they were under some unaccountable -apprehensions; and an uncommon degree of satisfaction was visible in -their countenances, on the German’s finding a person amongst us, with -whom he could converse. This was Mr. Webber, who spoke that language -perfectly well; and at last, though with some difficulty, convinced -them, that we were Englishmen, and friends. M. Port being introduced to -Captain Clerke, delivered to him the Commander’s letter, which was -written in German, and was merely complimental, inviting him and his -officers to Bolcheretsk, to which place the people, who brought it, were -to conduct us. M. Port at the same time, acquainted him, that the Major -had conceived a very wrong idea of the size of the ships, and of the -service we were engaged in; Ismyloff in his letter, having represented -us as two small English packet-boats, and cautioned him to be on his -guard; insinuating, that he suspected us to be no better than pirates. -In consequence of this letter, he said there had been various -conjectures formed about us at Bolcheretsk: that the Major thought it -most probable we were on a trading scheme, and for that reason had sent -down a merchant to us; but that the officer, who was second in command, -was of opinion we were French, and come with some hostile intention, and -were for taking measures accordingly. It had required, he added, all the -Major’s authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the town, and -retiring up into the country; to so extraordinary a pitch had their -fears risen, from their persuasion that we were French. - -Their extreme apprehensions of that nation were principally occasioned, -by some circumstances attending an insurrection that had happened at -Bolcheretsk a few years before, in which the commander had lost his -life. We were informed, that an exiled Polish officer, named Beniowski, -taking advantage of the confusion into which the town was thrown, had -seized upon a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolchoireka, -and had forced on board a number of Russian sailors, sufficient to -navigate her: that he had put on shore a part of the crew at the Kourile -Islands; and, among the rest, Ismyloff, who, as the reader will -recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly at Oonalashka, with the history of -this transaction; though, for want of understanding his language, we -could not then make out all the circumstances attending it: that he -passed in sight of Japan; made Luconia; and was there directed how to -steer to Canton; that arriving there, he had applied to the French, and -had got a passage in one of their India ships to France: and that most -of the Russians had likewise returned to Europe in French ships; and had -afterward found their way to Petersburg. We met with three of -Beniowski’s crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and from -them we learnt the circumstances of the above story. - -On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration of the -facts, from the gentlemen of the English factory, who told us, that a -person had arrived there in a Russian galliot, who said he came from -Kamtschatka; and that he had been furnished by the French factory with a -passage to Europe.[18] - -We could not help being much diverted with the fears and apprehensions -of these good people, and particularly with the account M. Port gave us -of the serjeant’s wary proceedings the day before. On seeing me come on -shore, in company with some other gentlemen, he had made him and the -merchant, who arrived in the sledges we had seen come in the morning, -hide themselves in his kitchen, and listen to our conversation with one -another, in hopes that, by this means, they might discover whether we -were really English or not. - -As we concluded, from the commission and dress of M. Port, that he might -probably be the commander’s secretary, he was received as such, and -invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke: -and though we soon began to suspect, from the behaviour of the latter -toward him, that he was only a common servant, yet this being no time to -sacrifice our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, -by not suffering the question to be put to him; and, in return for the -satisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguist, we continued to -let him live on a footing of equality with us. - - - - - CHAP. II. - -SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS AND STORES AT THE HARBOUR OF SAINT PETER AND - SAINT PAUL.—A PARTY SET OUT TO VISIT THE COMMANDER AT BOLCHERETSK.— - PASSAGE UP THE RIVER AWATSKA.—ACCOUNT OF THEIR RECEPTION BY THE TOION - OF KARATCHIN.—DESCRIPTION OF A KAMTSCHADALE DRESS.—JOURNEY ON - SLEDGES.—DESCRIPTION OF THIS MODE OF TRAVELLING.—ARRIVAL AT - NATCHEEKIN.—ACCOUNT OF HOT SPRINGS.—EMBARK ON THE BOLCHOIREKA.— - RECEPTION AT THE CAPITAL.—GENEROUS AND HOSPITABLE CONDUCT OF THE - COMMANDER AND THE GARRISON.—DESCRIPTION OF BOLCHERETSK.—PRESENTS FROM - THE COMMANDER.—RUSSIAN AND KAMTSCHADALE DANCING.—AFFECTING DEPARTURE - FROM BOLCHERETSK.—RETURN TO SAINT PETER AND SAINT PAUL’S, ACCOMPANIED - BY MAJOR BEHM, WHO VISITS THE SHIPS.—GENEROSITY OF THE SAILORS.— - DISPATCHES SENT BY MAJOR BEHM TO PETERSBURG.—HIS DEPARTURE AND - CHARACTER. - - -Being now enabled to converse with the Russians, by the aid of our -interpreter, with tolerable facility, our first inquires were directed -to the means of procuring a supply of fresh provisions, and naval -stores; from the want of which latter article, in particular, we had -been for some time in great distress. On inquiry, it appeared, that the -whole stock of live cattle, which the country about the bay could -furnish, amounted only to two heifers; and these the serjeant very -readily promised to procure us. Our applications were next made to the -merchant, but we found the terms upon which he offered to serve us, so -exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it necessary to send an officer -to visit the commander at Bolcheretsk, and to inquire into the price of -stores at that place. As soon as this determination was communicated to -M. Port, he dispatched an express to the commander, to inform him of our -intentions, and at the same time, to clear us from the suspicions that -were entertained with respect to the designation and purposes of our -voyage. - -Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this service, I -received orders, together with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany me as -interpreter, to be ready to set out the next day. It proved, however, -too stormy, as did also the 6th, for beginning a journey through so wild -and desolate a country; but, on the 7th, the weather appearing more -favourable, we set out early in the morning in the ship’s boats, with a -view to reach the entrance of the Awatska at high water, on account of -the shoals with which the mouth of that river abounds: here the country -boats were to meet us, and carry us up the stream. - -Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Messrs. -Port and Fedositsch, with two Cossacks, and were provided, by our -conductors, with warm furred clothing; a precaution which we soon found -very necessary, as it began to snow briskly just after we set out. At -eight o’clock, being stopped by shoal water, about a mile from the mouth -of the river, some small canoes, belonging to the Kamtschadales, took up -us and our baggage, and carried us over a spit of sand, which is thrown -up by the rapidity of the river, and which, they told us, was -continually shifting. When we had crossed this shoal, the water again -deepened; and here we found a commodious boat, built and shaped like a -Norway yawl, ready to convey us up the river, together with canoes for -our baggage. - -The mouth of the Awatska is about a quarter of a mile broad; and as we -advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few -miles, we passed several branches, which we were told emptied themselves -into other parts of the bay; and that some of those on the left hand -flowed into the Paratounca river. Its general direction from the bay, -for the first ten miles, is to the north, after which it turns to the -westward: this bend excepted, it preserves, for the most part, a -straight course; and the country through which it flows, to the distance -of near thirty miles from the sea, is low and flat, and subject to -frequent inundations. We were pushed forward by six men, with long -poles, three at each end of the boat; two of whom were Cossacks, the -others Kamtschadales; and advanced against a strong stream, at the rate, -as well as I could judge, of about three miles an hour. Our -Kamtschadales bore this severe labour, with great stoutness, for ten -hours; during which we stopped only once, and that for a short time, -whilst they took some little refreshment. As we had been told, at our -first setting out in the morning, that we should easily reach an -_ostrog_, called Karatchin, the same night, we were much disappointed to -find ourselves, at sun-set, fifteen miles from that place. This we -attributed to the delay occasioned in passing the shoals we had met -with, both at the entrance of the river, and in several other places, as -we proceeded up it; for our boat being the first that had passed up the -river, the guides were not acquainted with the situation of the shifting -sand-banks, and unfortunately the snow not having yet begun to melt, the -shallowness of the river was at its extreme. - -The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of -navigating the river, which would have been much increased by the -darkness of the night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing -our journey that evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably -sheltered, and cleared it of the snow, we erected a small _marquée_, -which we had brought with us; and, by the assistance of a brisk fire, -and some good punch, passed the night not very unpleasantly. The only -inconvenience we laboured under was, the being obliged to make the fire -at some distance from us. For, although the ground was, to all -appearance, dry enough before, yet when the fire was lighted, it soon -thawed all the parts round it into an absolute puddle. We admired much -the alertness and expedition with which the Kamtschadales erected our -_marquée_, and cooked our provisions; but what was most unexpected, we -found they had brought with them their tea-kettles, considering it as -the greatest of hardships not to drink tea two or three times a day. - -We set out as soon as it was light in the morning, and had not advanced -far, before we were met by the _Toion_, or chief of Karatchin, who had -been apprized of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, -and better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A -commodious vessel, consisting of two canoes, lashed close together with -cross spars, lined with bear-skins, and furnished with fur cloaks, was -also provided for us. We now went on very rapidly, the _Toion’s_ people -being both stout and fresh, and remarkable for their expertness in this -business. At ten we got to the _ostrog_, the seat of his command, where -we were received at the water-side by the Kamtschadale men and women, -and some Russian servants belonging to Fedositsch, who were employed in -making canoes. They were all drest out in their best clothes. Those of -the women were pretty and gay, consisting of a full loose robe of white -nankeen, gathered close round the neck, and fastened with a collar of -coloured silk. Over this they wore a short jacket, without sleeves, made -of different coloured nankeens, and petticoats of a slight Chinese silk. -Their shifts, which had sleeves down to the wrists, were also of silk; -and coloured silk handkerchiefs were bound round their heads, concealing -entirely the hair of the married women, whilst those who were unmarried, -brought the handkerchief under the hair, and suffered it to flow loose -behind. - -This _ostrog_ was pleasantly situated by the side of the river; and -consisted of three log-houses; three _jourts_, or houses made under -ground; and nineteen _balagans_, or summer habitations. We were -conducted to the dwelling of the _Toion_, who was a plain decent man, -born of a Russian woman, by a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all -the rest in this country, was divided into two apartments. A long narrow -table, with a bench round it, was all the furniture we saw in the outer; -and the household stuff of the inner, which was the kitchen, was not -less simple and scanty. But the kind attention of our host, and the -hearty welcome we received, more than compensated for the poverty of his -lodgings. - -His wife proved an excellent cook; and served us with fish and game of -different sorts, and various kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept -since the last year. Whilst we were at dinner in this miserable hut, the -guests of a people, with whose existence we had before been scarce -acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a solitary, -half-worn pewter spoon, whose shape was familiar to us, attracted our -attention; and, on examination, we found it stamped on the back with the -word _London_. I cannot pass over this circumstance in silence, out of -gratitude for the many pleasant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender -remembrances it excited in us. Those who have experienced the effects -that long absence and extreme distance from their native country produce -on the mind, will readily conceive the pleasure such trifling incidents -can give. To the philosopher and the politician they may perhaps suggest -reflections of a different nature. - -We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey -on sledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time, to allow -us to set out till the cold of the evening had again made the surface of -the snow hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the -village, which was the only place we had yet seen free from snow, since -we landed in this country. It stood upon a well wooded flat, of about a -mile and a half in circumference. The leaves were just budding, and the -verdure of the whole scene was strongly contrasted with the sides of the -surrounding hills, which were still covered with snow. As the soil -appeared to me very capable of producing all the common sorts of garden -vegetables, I was greatly surprized not to find the smallest spot any -where cultivated. If to this, we add that none of the inhabitants were -possessed of cattle of any sort, nothing can be well conceived more -wretched than their situation must be during the winter months. They -were at this time removing from their _jourts_ into their _balagans_, -which afforded us an opportunity of examining both these sorts of -habitations; and they will be hereafter more particularly described. The -people invited us into their houses with great good humour; a general -air of cheerfulness and content was every where visible, to which the -approaching change of season might probably not a little contribute. - -On our return to the _Toion’s_, we found supper prepared for us, which -differed in nothing from our former repast; and concluded with our -treating the _Toion_ and his wife with some of the spirits we had -brought with us, made into punch. Captain Gore, who had great generosity -on all occasions, having afterward made them some valuable presents, -they retired to the kitchen, leaving us in possession of the outward -room, where spreading our bear-skins on the benches, we were glad to get -a little repose; having settled with our conductors to resume our -journey as soon as the ground should be judged fit for travelling. - -About nine o’clock the same evening, we were awakened by the melancholy -howlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was -lashing upon the sledges; but, as soon as they were yoked, and we were -all prepared to set out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, -which entirely ceased the instant they marched off. But, before we set -out, the reader may expect to be made more particularly acquainted with -this curious mode of travelling. - -I brought over with me one of these sledges, which is now in the -possession of Sir Ashton Lever. The body is about four feet and a half -long, and a foot wide, made in the form of a crescent, of light tough -wood, strongly bound together with wicker work; which in those belonging -to the better sort of people is elegantly stained of a red and blue -colour, and the seat covered with bear-skins, or other furs. It is -supported by four legs about two feet high, which rest on two long flat -pieces of wood, five or six inches broad, extending a foot at each end -beyond the body of the sledge. These are turned up before in the manner -of a skate, and shod with the bone of some sea animal. The fore-part of -the carriage is ornamented with thongs of leather and tassels of -coloured cloth; and from the cross bar, to which the harness is joined, -are hung links of iron, or small bells, the jingling of which they -conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are seldom used to carry -more than one person at a time, who sits aside, resting his feet on the -lower part of the sledge, and carrying his provisions and other -necessaries, wrapped up in a bundle behind him. The dogs are usually -five in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins not being -fastened to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power -over them, and are therefore generally hung upon the sledge, whilst the -driver depends entirely on their obedience to his voice for the -direction of them. With this view, the leader is always trained up with -a particular degree of care and attention, some of them rising to a most -extraordinary value on account of their docility and steadiness; -insomuch, that for one of these, I am well assured, forty roubles (or -ten pounds) was no unusual price. The driver is also provided with a -crooked stick, which answers the purpose both of whip and reins; as by -striking it into the snow, he is enabled to moderate the speed of the -dogs, or even to stop them entirely; and when they are lazy, or -otherwise inattentive to his voice, he chastizes them by throwing it at -them. Upon these occasions, their dexterity in picking it up again is -very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it -is indeed not surprising, that they should labour to be skilful in a -practice upon which their safety so materially depends. For they say, -that if the driver should happen to lose his stick, the dogs will -instantly perceive it; and unless their leader be of the most sober and -resolute kind, they will immediately run ahead full speed, and never -stop till they are quite spent. But as that will not be the case soon, -it generally happens that either the carriage is overturned, and dashed -to pieces against the trees; or they hurry down some precipice, and all -are buried in the snow. The accounts that were given us of the speed of -these dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, -were scarcely credible, if they had not been supported by the best -authority. We were indeed ourselves witnesses of the great expedition -with which the messenger who had been dispatched to Bolcheretsk with the -news of our arrival, returned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, -though the snow was at this time exceedingly soft. But I was informed by -the commander of Kamtschatka, that this journey was generally performed -in two days and a half; and that he had once received an express from -the latter place in twenty-three hours. - -The dogs are fed during the winter on the offals of dried and stinking -fish; but are always deprived of this miserable food a day before they -set out on a journey, and never suffered to eat before they reach the -end of it. We were also told, that it was not unusual for them to -continue thus fasting two entire days, in which time they would perform -a journey of one hundred and twenty miles.[19] These dogs are in shape -somewhat like the Pomeranian breed, but considerably larger. - -As we did not choose to trust to our own skill, we had each of us a man -to drive and guide the sledge, which, from the state the roads were now -in, proved a very laborious business. For, as the thaw had advanced very -considerably in the valleys through which our road lay, we were under -the necessity of keeping along the sides of the hills; and this obliged -our guides, who were provided with snow-shoes for that purpose, to -support the sledges, on the lower side, with their shoulders, for -several miles together. I had a very good-humoured Cossack to attend me, -who was, however, so very unskilful in his business, that we were -overturned almost every minute, to the great entertainment of the rest -of the company. Our party consisted, in all, of ten sledges; that in -which Captain Gore was carried, was made of two lashed together, and -abundantly provided with furs and bear-skins; it had ten dogs, yoked -four abreast; as had also some of those that were heavy laden with -baggage. - -When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to rain; which, added -to the darkness of the night, threw us all into confusion. It was at -last agreed, that we should remain where we were till day-light; and -accordingly we came to anchor in the snow (for I cannot better express -the manner in which the sledges were secured), and wrapping ourselves up -in our furs, waited patiently for the morning. About three o’clock we -were called on to set out, our guides being apprehensive, that if we -waited longer, we might be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to -proceed, nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were -principally occasioned by the bad condition of the road, at two in the -afternoon, we got safe to an _ostrog_, called Natcheekin, situated on -the side of a small stream, which falls into the Bolchoireka, a little -way below the town. The distance between Karatchin and Natcheekin is -thirty-eight wersts (or twenty-five miles); and had the hard frost -continued, we should not, by their account, have been more than four -hours in performing it; but the snow was so soft, that the dogs, almost -at every step, sunk up to their bellies; and I was indeed much surprised -at their being at all able to overcome the difficulties of so fatiguing -a journey. - -Natcheekin is a very inconsiderable _ostrog_, having only one log-house, -the residence of the _Toion_; five _balagans_, and one _jourt_. We were -received here with the same formalities, and in the same hospitable -manner, as at Karatchin; and in the afternoon we went to visit a -remarkable hot spring, which is near this village. We saw, at some -distance, the steam rising from it, as from a boiling caldron; and as we -approached, perceived the air had a strong sulphureous smell. The main -spring forms a bason of about three feet in diameter; besides which, -there are a number of lesser springs, of the same degree of heat, in the -adjacent ground; so that the whole spot, to the extent of near an acre, -was so hot, that we could not stand two minutes in the same place. The -water flowing from these springs is collected in a small bathing pond, -and afterward forms a little rivulet; which, at the distance of about an -hundred and fifty yards, falls into the river. The bath, they told us, -had wrought great cures in several disorders, such as rheumatisms, -swelled and contracted joints, and scorbutic ulcers. In the -bathing-place the thermometer stood at 100°, or blood heat; but in the -spring, after being immersed two minutes, it was 1° above boiling -spirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time, was 34°; in the river -40°; and in the _Toion’s_ house 64°. The ground where these springs -break out, is on a gentle ascent; behind which there is a green hill of -a moderate size. I am sorry I was not sufficiently skilled in botany to -examine the plants, which seemed to thrive here with great luxuriance; -the wild garlic, indeed, forced itself on our notice, and was at this -time springing up very vigorously. - -The next morning, we embarked on the Bolchoireka in canoes; and, having -the stream with us, expected to be at our journey’s end the day -following. The town of Bolcheretsk is about eighty miles from -Natcheekin; and we were informed, that, in the summer season, when the -river has been full and rapid, from the melting of snow on the -mountains, the canoes had often gone down in a single day; but that, in -its present state, we should probably be much longer, as the ice had -broken up only three days before we arrived; and that our’s would be the -first boat that had attempted to pass. This intelligence proved but too -true. We found ourselves greatly impeded by the shallows; and though the -stream in many places ran with great rapidity, yet every half mile, we -had ripplings and shoals, over which we were obliged to haul the boats. -The country on each side was very romantic, but unvaried; the river -running between mountains of the most craggy and barren aspect, where -there was nothing to diversify the scene; but now and then the sight of -a bear, and the flights of wild-fowl. So uninteresting a passage leaves -me nothing farther to say, than that this and the following night we -slept on the banks of the river, under our _marquée_; and suffered very -much from the severity of the weather, and the snow which still remained -on the ground. - -At day-light on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, -and were entering a low extensive plain, covered with shrubby trees. -About nine in the forenoon, we arrived at an _ostrog_, called Opatchin, -which is computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of -the same size as Karatchin. We found here a serjeant with four Russian -soldiers, who had been two days waiting for our arrival; and who -immediately dispatched a light boat to Bolcheretsk, with intelligence of -our approach. We were now put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, -furnished with skins and furs, and equipped in a magnificent manner, was -prepared for our reception, in which we were accommodated much at our -ease, but to the exclusion of the rest of our fellow-travellers. It was -with much regret we found ourselves obliged to separate from our old -companion Monsieur Port, whom we had observed to grow every day more shy -and distant, as we drew nearer the end of our journey. Indeed, he had -himself told us, before we set out, that we paid him a respect he had no -title to; but as we found him a very modest and discreet man, we had -insisted on his living with us during the whole of our journey. The -remainder of our passage was performed with great facility and -expedition, the river growing more rapid as we descended, and less -obstructed by shoals. - -As we approached the capital, we were sorry to observe, from an -appearance of much stir and bustle, that we were to be received in form. -Decent clothes had been, for some time, a scarce commodity amongst us; -and our travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of -European, Indian, and Kamtschatdale fashions. We therefore thought it -would be too ridiculous to make a parade in this trim through the -metropolis of Kamtschatka; and as we saw a crowd collected on the banks -of the river, and were told the commander would be at the water-side to -receive us, we stopped short at a soldier’s house, about a quarter of a -mile from the town, from whence we sent Port with a message to his -Excellency, acquainting him, that the moment we had put off our -travelling dresses, we would pay our respects to him at his own house; -and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct us. Finding, -however, that he persisted in his intentions of paying us this -compliment, we lost no farther time in attiring ourselves, but made all -the haste in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I -observed my companions to be as awkward as I felt myself, in making our -first salutations; bowing and scraping being marks of good-breeding that -we had now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccustomed to. The -manner in which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging -that could be conceived, and increased my mortification, at finding, -that he had almost entirely forgot the French language; so that the -satisfaction of conversing with him was wholly confined to Mr. Webber, -who spoke the German, his native tongue. - -In company with Major Behm, was Captain Shmaleff; the second in command, -and another officer with the whole body of the merchants of the place. -They conducted us to the commander’s house, where we were received by -his lady with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments -prepared for us. After the first compliments were over, Mr. Webber was -desired to acquaint the Major with the object of our journey, with our -want of naval stores, flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries -for the ships’ crews; and at the same time to assure him, that we were -sensible, from what we had already seen of the condition of the country -about Awatska Bay, we could not expect much assistance from him in that -quarter; that the impossibility of sending heavy stores across the -peninsula, during the present season of the year, was but too apparent, -from the difficulties we had met with in our journey; and that, long -before any material change could take place, we should be under the -necessity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here interrupted by the -commander, who observed, that we did not yet know what they were capable -of doing; that at least it was not his business to think of the -difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what were the -articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow him -for procuring them. After expressing our sense of his obliging -disposition, we gave him a list of the naval stores, the number of -cattle, and the quantity of flour, we were directed to purchase, and -told him, that we purposed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of -June. - -Our conversation afterward turned upon different subjects; and it will -naturally be supposed, that our inquiries were principally directed to -the obtaining some information respecting our own country. Having now -been absent three years, we had flattered ourselves with the certainty -of receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being -interesting; and I cannot express the disappointment we felt, on -finding, that he had no news to communicate of a much later date than -that of our departure from England. - -About seven o’clock, the commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with -our journey, and desirous of taking some repose, begged he might conduct -us to our lodgings. It was in vain that we protested against a -compliment which we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being -strangers; a circumstance which seemed, in the opinion of this generous -Livonian, to counterbalance every other consideration. In our way, we -passed by two guard-houses, where the men were turned out under arms, in -compliment to Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat -and decent house, which the major gave us to understand was to be our -residence, during our stay. Two sentinels were posted at the door; and -in a house adjoining, there was a serjeant’s guard. Having shown us into -our apartments, the major took his leave, with a promise to see us the -next day; and we were left to find out, at our leisure, all the -conveniences that he had most amply provided for us. A soldier, called a -_putpropersckack_, whose rank is between that of a serjeant and -corporal, along with our fellow-traveller Port, were appointed to be our -male domestics; besides whom, there was a housekeeper and a cook, who -had orders to obey Port’s directions in dressing us a supper, according -to our own mode of cookery. We received many civil messages, in the -course of the evening, from the principal people of the town, -purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues, by paying their -respects to us at that time, but would wait on us in the morning. Such -well-supported politeness and attention in a country so desolate and -uncultivated, formed a contrast exceedingly favourable to its -inhabitants; and to finish the piece as it began, at sun-set the -serjeant came with the report of his guard to Captain Gore. - -Early in the morning, we received the compliments of the commander, of -Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all -honoured us with visits soon after. The two first having sent for Port, -after we were gone to rest, and inquired of him, what articles we seemed -to be most in want of on board the ships; we found them prepared to -insist on our sharing with the garrison under their command, in what -little stock of provisions they had remaining. At the same time they -lamented, that we had arrived at a season of the year, when there was -always the greatest scarcity of every thing amongst them; the sloops not -being yet arrived, with their annual supply, from Okotsk. - -We agreed to accept the liberality of these hospitable strangers, with -the best grace we could; but on condition, that we might be made -acquainted with the price of the articles we were to be supplied with; -and that Captain Clerke should give bills to the amount, upon the -Victualling-Office in London. This the major positively refused; and -whenever it was afterward urged, stopped us short, by telling us, he was -certain, that he could not oblige his mistress more, than in giving -every assistance in his power to her good friends and allies the -English; and that it would be a particular satisfaction to her, to hear, -that in so remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any -relief to ships engaged in such services as ours; that he could not -therefore act so contrary to the character of his empress, as to accept -of any bills; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare -attestation of the particulars, with which we might be furnished; and -that this he should transmit to his court, as a certificate of having -performed his duty. I shall leave (he continued) to the two courts, all -farther acknowledgments; but cannot consent to accept any thing of the -kind alluded to. - -When this matter was adjusted, he began to inquire about our private -wants, saying he should consider himself as ill-used if we had any -dealings with the merchants, or applied to any other person except -himself. - -In return for such singular generosity, we had little to bestow but our -admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had sent -by me a set of prints and maps belonging to the last voyage of Captain -Cook, which he desired me to present in his name to the commander, who -being an enthusiast in every thing relating to discoveries, received it -with a satisfaction which showed that, though a trifle, nothing could -have been more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewise entrusted me with -a discretionary power of showing him a chart of the discoveries made in -the present voyage; and as I judged that a person in his situation and -of his turn of mind would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of -this sort, though out of delicacy he had forborne to ask more than a few -general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a -confidence of which his whole conduct showed him to be deserving. - -I had the pleasure to find that he felt this compliment as I hoped he -would, and was much struck at seeing in one view the whole of that -coast, as well on the side of Asia as on that of America, of which his -countrymen had been so many years employed in acquiring a partial and -imperfect knowledge.[20] - -Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints I have already -mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the least worth -his acceptance; for it scarce deserves noticing that I prevailed on his -son, a young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about -me, and I made his little daughter very happy with two pair of -ear-rings, of French paste. Besides these trifles, I left with Captain -Shmaleff the thermometer I had used on my journey, and he promised me to -keep an exact register of the temperature of the air for one year, and -to transmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the pleasure of being -acquainted. - -We dined this day at the commander’s, who, studious on every occasion to -gratify our curiosity, had, besides a number of dishes dressed in our -own way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Russian and -Kamtschadale manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the -town and the adjacent country. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy -plain, that extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about forty miles long, -and of a considerable breadth. It lies on the north side of the -Bolchoi-reka (or great river), between the mouth of the Gottsofka and -the Bistraia, which here empty themselves into this river; and the -peninsula on which it stands has been separated from the continent by a -large canal, the work of the present commander, which has not only added -much to its strength as a fortress, but has made it much less liable -than it was before to inundations. Below the town the river is from six -to eight feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties -itself into the sea of Okotsk, at the distance of twenty-two miles, -where, according to Krasheninicoff, it is capable of admitting vessels -of a considerable size. There is no corn of any species cultivated in -this part of the country, and Major Behm informed me, that his was the -only garden that had yet been planted. The ground was for the most part -covered with snow; that which was free from it appeared full of small -hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I saw about twenty or thirty cows, -and the major had six stout horses. These and their dogs are the only -tame animals they possess; the necessity they are under in the present -state of the country of keeping great numbers of the latter, making it -impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size and strength a -match for them. For during the summer season their dogs are entirely let -loose, and left to provide for themselves, which makes them so -exceedingly ravenous that they will sometimes even attack the bullocks. - -The houses in Bolcheretsk are all of one fashion, being built of logs -and thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, -consisting of three rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered, and -which might have been reckoned handsome if the _talc_ with which the -windows were covered had not given them a poor and disagreeable -appearance. The town consists of several rows of low buildings, each -consisting of five or six dwellings connected together, with a long -common passage running the length of them, on one side of which is the -kitchen and store-house, and on the other the dwelling apartments. -Besides these are barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, a -well-looking church, and a court-room; and at the end of the town a -great number of _balagans_, belonging to the Kamtschadales. The -inhabitants taken altogether amount to between five and six hundred. In -the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the -principal people of the town of both sexes were invited. - -The next morning we applied privately to the merchant Fedositsch, to -purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a -twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However this, like all our -other transactions of the same kind, came immediately to the major’s -knowledge, and we were soon after surprised to find in our house four -bags of tobacco, weighing upward of a hundred pounds each, which he -begged might be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under -his command, to our sailors. At the same time they had sent us twenty -loaves of fine sugar, and as many pounds of tea, being articles they -understood we were in great want of, which they begged to be indulged in -presenting to the officers. Along with these, Madame Behm had also sent -a present for Captain Clerke, consisting of fresh butter, honey, figs, -rice, and some other little things of the same kind, attended with many -wishes that, in his infirm state of health, they might be of service to -him. It was in vain we tried to oppose this profusion of bounty, which I -was really anxious to restrain, being convinced that they were giving -away not a share but almost the whole stock of the garrison. The -constant answer the major returned us on those occasions was, that we -had suffered a great deal, and that we must needs be in distress. -Indeed, the length of time we had been out since we touched at any known -port, appeared to them so very incredible, that it required the -testimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumstances, to gain -their belief. Amongst the latter was a very curious fact which Major -Behm related to us this morning, and which he said but for our arrival -he should have been totally at a loss to account for. - -It is well known, that the Tschutski are the only people of the north of -Asia, who have maintained their independence, and resisted all the -attempts that have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The last -expedition against them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, -after various success, in the retreat of the Russian forces, and the -loss of the commanding officer. Since that time, the Russians had -removed their frontier fortress from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river -that empties itself into the northern extremity of the sea of Okotsk, -and gives its name to a gulf, situated to the west of that of Penshinsk. -From this fort, Major Behm had received dispatches the day of our -arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing intelligence, that a tribe, or party, -of the Tschutski, had arrived at that place with propositions of -friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute; that on enquiring into the -cause of this unexpected alteration in their sentiments, they had -informed his people, that toward the latter end of the last summer, they -had been visited by two very large Russian boats; that they had been -treated by the people who were in them with the greatest kindness, and -had entered into a league of friendship and amity with them; and that -relying on this friendly disposition, they were now come to the Russian -fort, in order to settle a treaty, on such terms as might be acceptable -to both nations. This extraordinary history had occasioned much -speculation, both at Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and had we not furnished -them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible. We -felt no small satisfaction in having, though accidentally, shown the -Russians, in this instance, the only true way of collecting tribute, and -extending their dominions; and in the hopes that the good understanding -which this event hath given rise to, may rescue a brave people from the -future invasions of such powerful neighbours. - -We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order -to vary our amusements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Russian -and Kamtschadale dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of -this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Russian dance was -much like those of our hornpipes, and was danced either single, or by -two or four persons at a time. Their steps were short and quick, with -the feet scarce raised from the ground; the arms were fixed close to the -sides; the body being all the while kept upright and immoveable, -excepting when the parties passed each other, at which time the hand was -raised with a quick and awkward motion. But if the Russian dance was at -the same time both unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtschadale joined to -the latter quality the most whimsical idea that ever entered into any -people’s heads. It is intended to represent the awkward and clumsy -gestures of the bear, which these people have frequent opportunities of -observing in a great variety of situations. It will scarcely be expected -that I should give a minute description of all the strange postures -which were exhibited on these occasions; and I shall therefore only -mention, that the body was always bowed, and the knees bent, whilst the -arms were used in imitating the tricks and attitudes of that animal. - -As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time than we expected, -and we were told that our return might prove still more difficult and -tedious, we were under the necessity of acquainting the commander, this -evening, with our intention of setting out the next day. It was not -without the utmost regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance; -and were therefore most agreeably surprised, when the Major told us, -that if we could stay one day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he -said, made up his dispatches, and resigned the command of Kamtschatka to -his successor Captain Shmaleff, and had prepared every thing for his -departure to Okotsk, which was to take place in a few days; but that he -should feel great pleasure in putting off his journey a little longer, -and returning with us to Saint Peter and Saint Paul’s, that he might -himself be a witness of every thing being done for us, that it was in -their power to do. - -In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, -I was next morning, the 15th, presented by his little boy, with a most -magnificent Kamtschadale dress, which shall be described in its proper -place. It was of the kind worn by the principal _Toions_ of the country, -on occasions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterwards told by -Fedositsch, could not have been purchased for one hundred and twenty -roubles. At the same time, I had a present from his daughter of a -handsome sable muff. - -We afterward dined with the commander, who, in order to let us see as -much of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the customs of the -country as our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort -of people in the village, to his house this evening. All the women -appeared very splendidly dressed after the Kamtschadale fashion. The -wives of Captain Shmaleff, and the other officers of the garrison, were -prettily dressed, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode; -and Madame Behm, in order to make the stronger contrast, had unpacked -part of her baggage, and put on a rich European dress. I was much struck -with the richness and variety of the silks which the women wore, and the -singularity of their habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene, in -the midst of the wildest and most dreary country in the world. Our -entertainment again consisted of dancing and singing. - -The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our -lodgings, where the first things we saw were three travelling dresses, -made after the fashion of the country, which the major had provided for -us, who came himself to our house soon after, to see all our things -packed up, and properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal -presents, and the kindness of Captain Shmaleff, and many other -individuals, who all begged to throw in their mite, together with the -ample stock of provisions he had sent us for our journey, we had amassed -no inconsiderable load of baggage. - -Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were -invited to call on Madame Behm, in our way to the boats, and take our -leave of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentiments of the -warmest gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment -we had met with at Bolcheretsk, they were greatly heightened, by the -affecting scene which presented itself to us, on leaving our lodgings. -All the soldiers and Cossacks belonging to the garrison, were drawn up -on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the town, dressed out in their -best clothes, on the other; and, as soon as we came out of the house, -the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy song, which, the -major told us, it was usual, in that country, to sing on taking leave of -their friends. In this manner we marched down to the commander’s house, -preceded by the drums and music of the garrison, where we were received -by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies, who were dressed in long silk -cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of different colours, which made a -most magnificent appearance. After partaking of some refreshment, that -was prepared for us, we went down to the water side, accompanied by the -ladies, who now joined the song with the rest of the inhabitants; and as -soon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm, and assured her of the -grateful sense we should ever retain of the hospitality of Bolcheretsk, -we found ourselves too much affected, not to hasten into the boats with -all the expedition we could. When we put off, the whole company gave us -three cheers, which we returned from the boat; and, as we were doubling -a point, where for the last time we saw our friendly entertainers, they -took their farewell in another cheer. - -We found the stream, on our return, so exceedingly rapid that -notwithstanding the Cossacks and Kamtschadales used their utmost -exertions, we did not reach the first village, Opatchin, till the -evening of the 17th, which was at the rate of about twenty miles a-day. -We got to Natcheekin on the 19th; and on the 20th, we crossed the plain -to Karatchin. We found the road much better than when we had passed it -before, there having been a smart frost on the night of the 19th. On the -21st, we proceeded down the Awatska River; and, before it was dark, got -over the shoals which lie at the entrance of the bay. During the whole -course of our journey, we were much pleased with the great good-will -with which the _Toions_, and their Kamtschadales, afforded us their -assistance, at the different _ostrogs_ through which we passed; and I -could not but observe the pleasure that appeared in their countenances, -on seeing the major, and their strong expressions of sorrow, on hearing -he was so soon going to leave them. - -We had dispatched a messenger to Captain Clerke, from Bolcheretsk, with -an account of our reception, and of the major’s intention of returning -with us; at the same time, apprizing him of the day he might probably -expect to see us. We were therefore very well pleased to observe, as we -approached the harbour, all the boats of the two ships coming toward us, -the men clean, and the officers as well dressed as the scarcity of our -clothing would permit. The major was much struck at the robust and -healthy appearance of the boats’ crews, and still more at seeing most of -them without any other covering than a shirt and trowsers, although at -the very moment it actually snowed. - -As Major Behm had expressed his intentions of visiting the ships before -he landed, as soon as we arrived off the town, I desired to receive his -commands; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very -bad state of Captain Clerke’s health, it might be imprudent to disturb -him at so late an hour (it being now past nine o’clock), he thought it, -he said, most adviseable to remain that night on shore. Accordingly, -after attending him to the serjeant’s house, I took my leave for the -present, and went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my -proceedings at Bolcheretsk. It was with the utmost concern I found, that -in the fortnight we had been absent, this excellent officer was much -altered for the worse, instead of reaping that advantage we flattered -ourselves he might, from the repose of the harbour, and the milk and -vegetable diet with which he was supplied. - -As soon as I had dispatched this business, I returned to the major, and -the next morning conducted him to the ships; where, on his arrival, he -was saluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of -distinction that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the -commander of one of the Russian galliots, the master of a sloop that lay -in the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretsk, and the priest of the -neighbouring village of Paratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain -the highest respect, and whom I shall hereafter have occasion to -mention, on account of his great kindness to Captain Clerke. - -After visiting the captain, and taking a view of both the ships, he -returned to dinner on board the Resolution; and, in the afternoon, the -various curiosities we had collected in the course of our voyage, were -shown him, and a complete assortment of every article presented to him -by Captain Clerke. On this occasion I must not pass over an instance of -great generosity and gratitude in the sailors of both ships; who, when -they were told of the handsome present of tobacco that was made them by -the major, desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might -be stopped, and their allowance of spirits presented, on their part, to -the garrison of Bolcheretsk, as they said they had reason to conclude -that brandy was scarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to -them, since the soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for -it. We, who knew how much the sailors always felt, whenever their -allowance of grog was stopped, which was generally done in warm weather, -that they might have it in a greater proportion in cold, and that this -offer would deprive them of it during the inclement season we had to -expect in our next expedition to the north, could not but admire so -extraordinary a sacrifice; and that they might not suffer by it, Captain -Clerke, and the rest of the officers, substituted in the room of the -very small quantity the major could be prevailed on to accept the same -quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame -Behm, and such other little presents as were in our power to bestow, -were accepted in the most obliging manner. The next morning the tobacco -was divided between the crews of the two ships, three pounds being -allotted to every man that chewed or smoked tobacco, and one pound to -those that did not. - -I have before mentioned, that Major Behm had resigned the command of -Kamtschatka, and intended to set out in a short time for Petersburg; and -he now offered to charge himself with any dispatches we might trust to -his care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected; and accordingly -Captain Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of sending -by him some papers relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our -ambassador at the Russian court. Our first intentions were to send only -a small journal of our proceedings; but afterward Captain Clerke being -persuaded that the whole account of our discoveries might safely be -trusted to a person who had given such striking proofs both of his -public and private virtues; and considering that we had a very hazardous -part of the voyage still to undertake, determined to send, by him, the -whole of the journal of our late commander, with that part of his own, -which completed the period from Captain Cook’s death, till our arrival -at Kamtschatka; together with a chart of all our discoveries. Mr. Bayly -and myself, thought it also proper to send a general account of our -proceedings to the board of longitude; by which precautions, if any -misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admiralty would have been in -possession of a complete history of the principal facts of our voyage. -It was also determined, that a smaller packet should be sent by an -express from Okotsk, which, the major said, if he was fortunate in his -passage to that port, would reach Petersburg by December, and that he -himself should be there in February or March. - -During the three following days, the major was entertained alternately -in the two ships, in the best manner we were able. On the 25th, he took -his leave, and was saluted with thirteen guns; and the sailors, at their -own desire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr. Webber and -myself attended him a few miles up the Awatska River, where we met the -Russian priest, his wife and children, who were waiting to take the last -farewell of their commander. - -It was hard to say, whether the good priest and his family, or -ourselves, were most affected on taking our leave of Major Behm. Short -as our acquaintance had been, his noble and disinterested conduct had -inspired us with the highest respect and esteem for him; and we could -not part with a person to whom we were under such obligations, and whom -we had little prospect of ever seeing again, without feeling the most -tender concern. The intrinsic value of the private presents we received -from him, exclusive of the stores which might be carried to a public -account, must have amounted, according to the current price of articles -in that country, to upward of two hundred pounds. But this generosity, -extraordinary as it must appear in itself, was exceeded by the delicacy -with which all his favours were conferred, and the artful manner in -which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of obligations, -which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a step further, and -consider him as supporting a public character, and maintaining the -honour of a great sovereign, we shall find a still higher subject of -admiration, in the just and enlarged sentiments by which he was -actuated. “The service in which you are employed,” he would often say, -“is for the general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives you a -right, not merely to the offices of humanity, but to the privileges of -citizens, in whatever country you may be thrown. I am sure I am acting -agreeably to the wishes of my mistress, in affording you all the relief -in our power; and I cannot forget either her character, or my own -honour, so much, as to barter for the performance of a duty.” At other -times, he would tell us, that he was particularly desirous of setting a -good example to the Kamtschadales, who, he said, were but just emerging -from a state of barbarism; that they looked up to the Russians as their -patterns in every thing; and that he had hopes they might in future look -upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to assist strangers to the utmost -of their power, and believe, that such was the universal practice of -civilized nations. To all this must be added, that, after having -relieved, to the utmost of his abilities, all our present distresses, he -showed himself not much less mindful of our future wants; and, as he -supposed it more than probable we should not discover the passage we -were in search of, and therefore should return to Kamschatka in the fall -of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a list of what cordage and -flour we should want, and promised they should be sent from Okotsk, and -wait our arrival. For the same purpose, he gave Captain Clerke a paper, -enjoining all the subjects of the empress, whom we might happen to meet, -to give us every assistance in their power. - - - - - CHAP. III. - -CONTINUATION OF TRANSACTIONS IN THE HARBOUR OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL.— - ABUNDANCE OF FISH.—DEATH OF A SEAMAN BELONGING TO THE RESOLUTION.—THE - RUSSIAN HOSPITAL PUT UNDER THE CARE OF THE SHIPS’ SURGEONS.—SUPPLY OF - FLOUR AND CATTLE.—CELEBRATION OF THE KING’S BIRTH-DAY.—DIFFICULTIES IN - SAILING OUT OF THE BAY.—ERUPTION OF A VOLCANO.—STEER TO THE - NORTHWARD.—CHEEPOONSKOI NOSS.—ERRORS OF THE RUSSIAN CHARTS.— - KAMTSCHATSKOI NOSS.—OLUTORSKOI NOSS.—TSCHUKOTSKOI NOSS.—ISLAND OF ST. - LAURENCE.—VIEW, FROM THE SAME POINT, OF THE COASTS OF ASIA AND - AMERICA, AND THE ISLANDS OF ST. DIOMEDE.—VARIOUS ATTEMPTS TO GET TO - THE NORTH, BETWEEN THE TWO CONTINENTS.—OBSTRUCTED BY IMPENETRABLE - ICE.—SEA-HORSES AND WHITE BEARS KILLED.—CAPTAIN CLERKE’S - DETERMINATION, AND FUTURE DESIGNS. - - -Having concluded the last chapter with an account of our return from -Bolcheretsk, accompanied by Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtschatka, -and of his departure; I shall proceed to relate the transactions that -passed in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul during our absence. On -the 7th of May, soon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice -drove across the cut-water of the Resolution, and brought home the small -bower anchor. This obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor -again. The carpenters, who were employed in stopping the leak, were -obliged to take off a great part of the sheathing from the bows, and -found many of the trunnels so very loose and rotten, as to be easily -drawn out with the fingers. - -On the 11th they had heavy gales from the north-east, which obliged both -the ships to strike yards and topmasts; but in the afternoon, the -weather being more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as -the mouth of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, they warped close to -the shore for the greater convenience of watering and wooding, and again -moored as before, the town bearing north half west, half a mile distant, -and the mouth of the bay shut in by the southernmost point of Rakowina -harbour, south. - -The next day, a party was sent on shore to cut wood, but made little -progress on account of the snow, which still covered the ground. A -convenient spot was cleared away abreast of the ships, where there was a -fine run of water, and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty -casks were landed, and the sail-makers sent on shore. - -On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were sent to haul -the seine, and caught an abundant supply of fine flat fish for both the -ships’ companies. Indeed from this time, during the whole of our stay in -the harbour, we were absolutely overpowered with the quantities of fish -which came in from every quarter. The _Toions_ both of this town and of -Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from -Major Behm to employ all the Kamtschadales in our service, so that we -frequently could not take into the ships the presents that were sent us. -They consisted in general of flat fish, cod, trout, and herring. These -last, which were in their full perfection, and of a delicious flavour, -were exceedingly abundant in this bay. The Discovery’s people surrounded -at one time so great a quantity in their seine, that they were obliged -to throw a vast number out, lest the net should be broken to pieces; and -the cargo they landed was afterward so plentiful, that besides a -sufficient store for immediate use, they filled as many casks as they -could spare for salting; and after sending to the Resolution a -sufficient quantity for the same purpose, they left several bushels -behind on the beach. - -The snow now began to disappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild -garlic, celery, and nettle-tops were gathered for the use of the crews, -which being boiled with wheat and portable soup, made them a wholesome -and comfortable breakfast, and with this they were supplied every -morning. The birch trees were also tapped, and the sweet juice, which -they yielded in great quantities, was constantly mixed with the men’s -allowance of brandy. - -The next day, a small bullock, which had been procured for the ships’ -companies by the serjeant, was killed, and weighed two hundred and -seventy-two pounds. It was served out to both crews for their Sunday’s -dinner, being the first piece of fresh beef they had tasted since our -departure from the Cape of Good Hope in December, 1776, a period of near -two years and a half. - -This evening died John Macintosh, the carpenter’s mate, after having -laboured under a dysentery ever since our departure from the Sandwich -Islands: he was a very hard-working quiet man, and much regretted by his -mess-mates. He was the fourth person we lost by sickness during the -voyage, but the first who could be said, from his age and the -constitutional habits of his body, to have had on our setting out an -equal chance with the rest of his comrades: Watman we supposed to be -about sixty years of age; and Roberts and Mr. Anderson, from the decay -which had evidently commenced before we left England, could not, in all -probability, under any circumstances, have lived a greater length of -time than they did. - -I have already mentioned that Captain Clerke’s health continued daily to -decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which the country -of Kamtschatka afforded him. The priest of Paratounca, as soon as he -heard of the infirm state he was in, supplied him every day with bread, -milk, fresh butter, and fowls, though his house was sixteen miles from -the harbour where we lay. - -On our first arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the -town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the -soldiers were, more or less, affected by the scurvy, and a great many in -the last stage of that disorder. The rest of the Russian inhabitants -were also in the same condition; and we particularly remarked that our -friend the serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, -had brought on himself in the course of a few days, some of the most -alarming symptoms of that malady. In this lamentable state, Captain -Clerke put them all under the care of our surgeons, and ordered a supply -of sour krout, and malt for wort, to be furnished for their use. It was -astonishing to observe the alteration in the figures of almost every -person we met on our return from Bolcheretsk; and I was informed by our -surgeons that they attributed their speedy recovery principally to the -effects of the sweet wort. - -On the 1st of June we got on board two hundred and fifty poods, or nine -thousand pounds’ weight of rye flour, with which we were supplied from -the stores of St. Peter and St. Paul’s, and the Discovery had a -proportional quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of -bread, which they had not been indulged in since our leaving the Cape of -Good Hope. The same day our watering was completed, having got on board -sixty-five tons. - -On the 4th we had fresh breezes and hard rain, which disappointed us in -our design of dressing the ships, and obliged us to content ourselves -with firing twenty-one guns in honour of the day, and celebrating it in -other respects in the best manner we were able. Port, who was left with -us on account of his skill in languages, behaved himself with so much -modesty and discretion, that as soon as his master was gone he was no -longer Jean Port, but Monsieur Port, the interpreter, and partook, as -well as the serjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the -entertainment of the day. Our worthy friend the priest of Paratounca -having got intelligence of its being our king’s birth-day, gave also a -sumptuous feast, at which some of our gentlemen were present, who seemed -highly delighted with their entertainment, which consisted of abundance -of good eating and drinking, together with dancing. - -On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were sent us by the commander’s orders -from the Verchnei _ostrog_, which is situated on the river Kamtschatka, -at the distance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct -line. They were of a moderate size; and, notwithstanding the -Kamtschadales had been seventeen days in driving them down to the -harbour, arrived in good condition. The four following days were -employed in making ready for sea, and on the 11th, at two in the -morning, we began to unmoor; but before we had got one anchor up, it -blew so strong a gale from the north-east, that we kept fast, and moored -again, conjecturing, from the position of the entrance of the bay, that -the current of wind would set up the channel. Accordingly, the pinnace -being sent out to examine the passage, returned with an account that the -wind blew strong from the south-east, with a great swell, setting into -the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to sea very hazardous. - -Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box -with our journals, which was to go by the major, and the packet that was -to be sent express. On the 12th, the weather being moderate, we began to -unmoor again; but, after breaking the messenger, and reeving a running -purchase with a six-inch hawser, which also broke three times, we were -obliged at last, to heave a strain at low water, and wait for the -flowing of the tide to raise the anchor. This project succeeded; but not -without damaging the cable in the wake of the hawse. At three, we -weighed the best bower, and set sail; and, at eight, having little wind, -and the tide making against us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, -off the mouth of Rakowina harbour; the _ostrog_ bearing north by east -half east, two miles and a half distant; the needle rocks on the east -side of the passage south south-east half east, and the high rock, on -the west side of the passage, south. - -On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under weigh with the ebb -tide; and, there being a dead calm, the boats were sent ahead to tow the -ships. At ten, the wind springing up from the south-east by south, and -the tide having turned, we were again obliged to drop anchor in seven -fathoms; the Three Needle Rocks bearing south half east; and the -_ostrog_ north half east, at the distance of one mile from the nearest -land. After dinner, I went with Captain Gore on shore, on the east side -of the passage, where we saw, in two different places, the remains of -extensive villages; and on the side of the hill, an old ruined parapet, -with four or five embrasures. It commanded the passage up the mouth of -the bay; and, in Beering’s time, as he himself mentions, had guns -mounted on it. Near this place, were the ruins of some caverns under -ground, which we supposed to have been magazines. - -At six in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to -windward; but at eight, a thick fog arising, we were obliged to -bring-to, as our soundings could not afford us a sufficient direction -for steering between several sunk rocks, which lie on each side of the -passage we had to make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing -away, we weighed as soon as the tide began to ebb; and, having little -wind, sent the boats ahead to tow; but, at ten o’clock, both the wind -and tide set in so strong from the sea, that we were again obliged to -drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the high rock bearing west one quarter -south, distant three quarters of a mile. We remained fast for the rest -of the day, the wind blowing fresh into the mouth of the bay; and, -toward evening, the weather had a very unusual appearance, being -exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unsettled shifting wind. - -Before day-light on the 15th, we were surprised with a rumbling noise, -resembling distant hollow thunder; and when the day broke, we found the -decks and sides of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near -an inch thick. The air, at the same time, continued loaded and darkened -with this substance; and, toward the _volcano_ mountain, situated to the -north of the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could not -distinguish the body of the hill. About twelve o’clock, and, during the -afternoon, the explosions became louder, and were followed by showers of -cinders, which were, in general, about the size of peas; though many -were picked up from the deck larger than a hazel-nut. Along with the -cinders fell several small stones, which had undergone no change from -the action of fire. In the evening we had dreadful thunder and -lightning, which, with the darkness of the atmosphere, and the -sulphureous smell of the air, produced altogether a most awful and -terrifying effect. We were, at this time, about eight leagues from the -foot of the mountain. - -On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and stood out of the -bay; but the ebb-tide setting across the passage upon the eastern shore, -and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks, -which lie on that side of the entrance, and obliged to hoist out the -boats, in order to tow the ships clear of them. At noon we were two -leagues from the land, and had soundings with forty-three fathoms of -line, over a bottom of small stones, of the same kind with those which -fell on our decks, after the eruption of the _volcano_; but whether they -had been left there by the last, or by some former eruptions, we were -not able to determine. - -The aspect of the country was now very different from what it had been -on our first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the tops of -some very high mountains, had disappeared; and the sides of the hills, -which, in many parts, were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful -verdure. - -As it was Captain Clerke’s intention to keep as much in sight of the -coast of Kamtschatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine -its position, we continued steering to the north north-east, with light -and variable winds, till the 18th. The _volcano_ was still seen throwing -up immense volumes of smoke; and we had no soundings with one hundred -and fifty fathoms, at the distance of four leagues from the shore. - -On the 18th, the wind freshening from the south, the weather became so -thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in -sight of the land. But that we might be ready to resume our survey, -whenever the fogs should disperse, we ran on in the direction of the -coast, as laid down in the Russian charts, and fired signal guns for the -Discovery to steer the same course. At eleven o’clock, just before we -lost sight of the land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so called by the Russians (a -description of which, as well as the coast between it and Awatska Bay, -will be given hereafter), bore north north-east, distant seven or eight -leagues. - -On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we -stood in toward the land; and in an hour’s time saw it ahead, extending -from north-west to north north-east, distant about five leagues. The -north part we took to be Kronotskoi Noss; its position in the Russian -charts agreeing nearly with our reckoning as to its latitude, which was -54° 42ʹ; but in longitude we differed from them considerably, they -placing it 1° 48ʹ E. of Awatska; whereas, our reckoning, corrected by -the time-keepers and lunar observations, makes it 3° 34ʹ E. of that -place, or 162° 17ʹ E. from Greenwich. The land about this cape is very -high, and the inland mountains were still covered with snow. The shore -breaks off in steep cliffs, and the coast is without any appearance of -inlets or bays. We had not been long gratified with this sight of the -land, when the wind freshened from the south-west, and brought on a -thick fog, which obliged us to stand off to the north-east by east. The -weather clearing up again at noon, we steered toward the land, expecting -to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and had sight of it at day-break of -the 21st. - -The southerly wind was soon after succeeded by a light breeze blowing -off the land, which prevented our approaching the coast sufficiently -near to describe its aspect, or ascertain with accuracy, its direction. -At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 55° 52ʹ, and longitude -(deduced from a comparison of many lunar observations, taken near this -time, with the time-keepers), 163° 50ʹ; the extremities of the land -bearing N. W. by W. three quarters W., and N. by W. three quarters W., -the nearest part about eight leagues distant. At nine o’clock in the -evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the coast, we found -it formed a projecting peninsula, extending about twelve leagues in a -direction nearly N. and S. It is level and of a moderate height, the -southern extremity terminating in a low sloping point; that to the north -forming a steep bluff head; and between them, about four leagues to the -southward of the northern cape, there is a considerable break in the -land. On each side of this break the land is quite low; beyond the -opening rises a remarkable saddle-like hill; and a chain of high -mountains covered with snow, ranges along the back of the whole -peninsula. - -As the coast runs in an even direction, we were at a great loss where to -place Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting -point about the middle of the peninsula, and which certainly does not -exist; but I have since found, that in the general map published by the -Academy of Petersburgh in 1776, that name is given to the southern cape. -This was found by several accurate observations, to be in latitude 56° -3ʹ, longitude 163° 20ʹ; the difference in longitude from the Russian -charts, being the same as at Kronotskoi Noss. The variation of the -compass at this time was 10° E. To the southward of this peninsula the -great river Kamtschatka falls into the sea. - -As the season was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate -survey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was Captain Clerke’s plan, in our -run to Beering’s Straits, to determine principally the positions of the -projecting points of the coast. We therefore directed our course across -an extensive bay, laid down between Kamtschatskoi Noss and Olutorskoi -Noss, intending to make the latter; which, according to the Russian -geographers, terminates the peninsula called Kamtschatka, and becomes -the southern boundary of the Koriaki country. - -On the 22d, we passed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid stench, -perceivable at upward of a league’s distance; it was covered with a -great number of sea-birds, that were feasting on it. - -On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compass, the three -preceding days, fixed at S. W. and brought clear weather, with which we -continued our course to the N. E. by N., across the bay, without any -land in sight. - -This day we saw a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the -disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which, has procured it -the name of the parasite, and which, if the reader is not already -acquainted with it, he will find in the note below.[21] - -On the 25th, at one o’clock in the afternoon, being in latitude 59° 12ʹ, -longitude 168° 35ʹ, the wind freshening from the same quarter, a thick -fog succeeded; and this unfortunately just at the time we expected to -see Olutorskoi Noss; which, if Muller places it right in latitude 59° -30ʹ, and in longitude 167° 36ʹ, could only have then been twelve leagues -from us; at which distance land of a moderate height might easily have -been seen. But if the same error in longitude prevails here, which we -have hitherto invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even -before the fog came on; and as we saw no appearance of land at that -time, it must either have been very low, or there must be some mistake -of latitude in Muller’s account. We tried soundings, but had no ground -with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line. - -The weather still thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the -land, at five we steered E. by N., which is somewhat more easterly than -the Russian charts lay down the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi -Noss. The next day we had a fresh gale from the S. W., which lasted till -the 27th at noon, when the fogs clearing away, we stood to the -northward, in order to make the land. The latitude at noon, by -observation, was 59° 49ʹ, longitude 175° 43ʹ. Notwithstanding we saw -shags in the forenoon, which are supposed never to go far from land, yet -there was no appearance of it this day; but on the 28th, at six in the -morning, we got sight of it to the N. W. The coast shows itself in hills -of a moderate height; but inland, others are seen to rise considerably. -We could observe no wood, and the snow lying upon them in patches, gave -the whole a very barren appearance. At nine, we were about ten miles -from the shore, the southern extremity bearing W. by S., six leagues -distant, beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the westward. This -point being in latitude 61° 48ʹ, longitude 174° 48ʹ, lies, according to -the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the same time, -the northern extreme bore N. by W.; between which and a hill bearing N. -W. by W. a quarter W., and at this distance appearing to us like an -island, the coast seemed to bend to the westward, and form a deep bay. - -About eight miles from land, we perceived ourselves in a strong -rippling; and being apprehensive of foul ground, we bore away to the N. -E., along the shore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found -regular soundings of twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom; from -whence we concluded, that this appearance was occasioned by a tide, at -that time running to the southward. At noon, the extremes of the land -bearing W. S. W. three quarters W., and N. N. E. three quarters E., -distant from the nearest shore four leagues, we were abreast of the low -land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we had before -expected to find a deep bay. The coast bends a little to the westward, -and has a small inlet, which may probably be the mouth of some trifling -stream. Our latitude, by observation, was 61° 56ʹ, and longitude 175° -43ʹ, and the variation of the compass 17° 30ʹ E. - -We continued during the afternoon to run along the shore, at the -distance of four or five leagues, with a moderate westerly breeze, -carrying regular soundings from twenty-eight to thirty-six fathoms. The -coast presented the same barren aspect as to the southward, the hills -rising considerably inland, but to what height the clouds on their tops -put it out of our power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was -thought to have been seen to the east by north, on which we steered to -the southward of east, but it turned out to be only a fog-bank. At -midnight, the extreme point bearing north-east a quarter east, we -supposed it to be Saint Thadeus’s Noss; to the southward of which the -land trends to the westward, and forms a deep bight, wherein, according -to the Russian charts, lies the river Katirka. - -On the 29th the weather was unsettled and variable, with the wind from -the north-east. At noon of the 30th, our latitude by observation was 61° -48ʹ, and longitude 180° 0ʹ, at which time Saint Thadeus’s Noss bore -north-north-west, twenty-three leagues distant, and beyond it we -observed the coast stretching almost directly north. The most easterly -point of the Noss is in latitude 62° 50ʹ, and longitude 179° 0ʹ, being -3-1/2° more to the east than what the Russians make it. The land about -it must be of a considerable height, from its being seen at so great a -distance. During the two last days, we saw numbers of whales, large -seals, and sea-horses; also gulls, sea-parrots, and albatrosses. We took -the advantage of a little calm weather to try for fish, and caught -abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from sixty-five to -seventy-five fathoms. - -On the 1st of July at noon, Mr. Bligh having moored a small keg with the -deep-sea lead in seventy-five fathoms, found the ship made a course -north by east half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a -long southerly swell, and not to that of any current. The wind -freshening from the south-east toward evening, we shaped our course to -the north-east by east for the point called in Beering’s chart -Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on the 4th of September last -year, at the same time that we saw to the south-east the island of Saint -Laurence. This Cape and Saint Thadeus’s Noss form the north-east and -south-west extremities of the large and deep Gulf of Anadir, into the -bottom of which the river of that name empties itself, dividing as it -passes, the country of the Koriacs from that of Tschutski. - -On the 3d at noon the latitude, by observation, was 63° 33ʹ, and the -longitude 186° 45ʹ; half an hour after which we got sight of the -Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing north half west, thirteen or fourteen leagues -distant, and at five in the afternoon saw the island of St. Laurence, -bearing east three quarters north; and another island a little to the -eastward of it, which we supposed to be between Saint Laurence and -Anderson’s Island, about six leagues east-south-east of the former. As -we had no certain account of this island, Captain Clerke was desirous of -a nearer prospect, and immediately hauled the wind toward it; but -unfortunately we were not able to weather the island of Saint Laurence, -and were therefore under the necessity of bearing up again, and passing -them all to the leeward. - -We had a better opportunity of settling the longitude of the island -Saint Laurence when we last saw it, than now. But seeing it at that time -but once, and to the southward, we could only determine its latitude so -far as we could judge of distances, whereas now the noon observations -enabled us to ascertain it correctly, which is 63° 47ʹ. Its longitude -was found to be 188° 15ʹ, as before. This island, if its boundaries were -at this time within our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The -north part may be seen at the distance of ten or twelve leagues; but as -it falls in low land to the south-east, the extent of which we could not -see, some of us conjectured that it might probably be joined to the land -to the eastward of it; this, however, the haziness of the weather -prevented our ascertaining. These islands, as well as the land about the -Tschukotskoi Noss, were covered with snow, and presented us with a most -dreary picture. At midnight, Saint Laurence bore south-south-east, five -or six miles distant, and our depth of water was eighteen fathoms. We -were accompanied by various kinds of sea fowl, and saw several small -crested hawks. - -The weather still continuing to thicken, we lost all sight of land till -the 5th, when it appeared both to the north-east and north-west. Our -latitude, by account, was at this time 65° 24ʹ, longitude 189° 14ʹ. As -the islands of Saint Diomede, which lie between the two continents in -Beering’s Strait, were determined by us last year to be in latitude 65° -48ʹ, we could not reconcile the land to the north-east with the -situation of those islands. We therefore stood toward the land till -three in the afternoon, when we were within four miles of it, and -finding it to be two islands, were pretty well satisfied of their being -the same; but the weather still continuing hazy, to make sure of our -situation, we stood over to the coast of Asia till seven in the evening, -at which time we were within two or three leagues of the east cape of -that continent. - -This cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles -from north to south, forming a peninsula, and connected with the -continent by a narrow neck of low land. Its shore is bold, and off its -north part are three high detached spiral rocks. At this time it was -covered with snow, and the beach surrounded with ice. We were now -convinced that we had been under the influence of a strong current -setting to the north, that had caused an error in our latitude at noon -of twenty miles. In passing this strait the last year, we had -experienced the same effect. - -Being at length sure of our position, we held on to the north by east. -At ten at night the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of -seeing at the same moment the remarkable peaked hill near Cape Prince of -Wales, on the coast of America, and the east Cape of Asia, with the two -connecting islands of Saint Diomede between them. - -At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67° N., and the -longitude 191° 6ʹ E. Having already passed a considerable number of -large masses of ice, and observed that it still adhered in several -places to the shore on the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised -to fall in, at three in the afternoon, with an extensive body of it, -stretching away to the westward. This sight gave great discouragement to -our hopes of advancing much farther northward this year than we had done -the preceding. - -Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoisted out the boats in pursuit -of the sea-horses, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of -ice; but they soon returned without success; these animals being -exceedingly shy, and before they could come within gun-shot, always -making their retreat into the water. - -At seven in the evening, we hoisted in the boats, and the wind -freshening from the southward, we stood on to the N. E., with a view of -exploring the continent of America, between the latitudes of 68° and -69°, which, owing to the foggy weather last year, we had not been able -to examine. In this attempt we were again in part disappointed. For on -the 7th, at six in the morning, we were stopped by a large field of ice -stretching from N. W. to S. E., but soon after the horizon becoming -clear, we had sight of the coast of America at about ten leagues -distance, extending from north-east by east to east, and lying, by -observation, between the 68° and 68° 20ʹ of latitude. As the weather was -clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to see over a great extent -of it. The whole presented a solid and compact surface not in the -smallest degree thawed, and appeared to us likewise to adhere to the -land. - -The weather soon after changing to hazy, we saw no more of the land; and -there not remaining a possibility of approaching nearer to it, we stood -to the north north-west, keeping the ice close on board, and got round -its western extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly north. -Our latitude at this time was, by account, 68° 22ʹ, and longitude 192° -34ʹ. We continued our course to the north north-east, along the edge of -the ice, during the remaining part of the day, passing through many -loose pieces that had been broken off from the main body, and against -which, notwithstanding all our caution, the ships were driven with great -violence. At eight o’clock in the evening we passed some drift wood, and -at midnight the wind shifted to the north-west; the thermometer fell -from 38° to 31°, and we had continued showers of snow and sleet. - -On the 8th, at five in the morning, the wind coming still more to the -northward, we could no longer keep on the same tack, on account of the -ice, but were obliged to stand to the westward. At this time our -soundings had decreased to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it -with our observations on the depth of water last year, we concluded that -we were not at a greater distance from the American shore than six or -seven leagues; but our view was confined within a much shorter compass -by a violent fall of snow. At noon, the latitude by account was 69° 21ʹ, -longitude 192° 42ʹ. At two in the afternoon the weather cleared up, and -we found ourselves close to an expanse of what appeared from the deck -solid ice; but from the mast head it was discovered to be composed of -huge compact bodies, close and united toward the outer edge, but in the -interior parts several pieces were seen floating in vacant spaces of the -water. It extended from north-east by the north to west south-west. We -bore away by the edge of it to the southward, that we might get into -clearer water; for the strong northerly winds had drifted down such -quantities of loose pieces, that we had been for some time surrounded by -them, and could not avoid striking against several, notwithstanding we -reefed the topsails and stood under an easy sail. - -On the 9th we had a fresh gale from the north north-west, with heavy -showers of snow and sleet. The thermometer was in the night-time 28°, -and at noon 30°. We continued to steer west south-west as before, -keeping as near the large body of ice as we could, and had the -misfortune to rub off some of the sheathing from the bows against the -drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed the shocks we could not -avoid receiving, were frequently so severe as to be attended with -considerable danger. At noon, the latitude by account was 69° 12ʹ, and -longitude 188° 5ʹ. The variation in the afternoon was found to be 29° -30ʹ E. - -As we had now sailed near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge -of the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the northward -beyond it, and had therefore no prospect of advancing farther north for -the present, Captain Clerke resolved to bear away to the south by east, -(the only quarter that was clear) and to wait till the season was more -advanced, before he made any farther efforts to penetrate through the -ice. The intermediate time he proposed to spend in examining the bay of -St. Laurence, and the coast to the southward of it; as a harbour so -near, in case of future damage from the ice, would be very desirable. We -also wished to pay another visit to our Tschutski friends; and -particularly since the accounts we had heard of them from the commander -of Kamtschatka. - -We therefore stood on to the southward till the noon of the 10th, at -which time we passed great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to -a perfect calm. The latitude by observation was 68° 1ʹ, longitude 188° -30ʹ. We passed several whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon -hoisted out the boats, and sent them in pursuit of the sea-horses, which -were in great numbers on the pieces of ice that surrounded us. Our -people were more successful than they had been before, returning with -three large ones and a young one; besides killing and wounding several -others. The gentlemen who went on this party were witnesses of several -remarkable instances of parental affection in those animals. On the -approach of our boats toward the ice, they all took their cubs under -their fins, and endeavoured to escape with them into the sea. Several, -whose young were killed or wounded and left floating on the surface, -rose again and carried them down, sometimes just as our people were -going to take them up into the boat; and might be traced bearing them to -a great distance through the water, which was coloured with their blood: -we afterward observed them bringing them at times above the surface, as -if for air, and again diving under it with a dreadful bellowing. The -female in particular whose young had been destroyed and taken into the -boat, became so enraged that she attacked the cutter, and struck her two -tusks through the bottom of it. - -At eight in the evening a breeze sprung up to the eastward, with which -we still continued our course to the southward, and at twelve fell in -with numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to push through them -with an easy sail, for fear of damaging the ship; and having got a -little farther to the southward, nothing was to be seen but one compact -field of ice, stretching to the south-west south-east and north-east, as -far as the eye could reach. This unexpected and formidable obstacle put -an end to Captain Clerke’s plan of visiting the Tschutski; for no space -remained open but back again to the northward. Accordingly at three in -the morning of the 11th, we tacked and stood to that quarter. At noon -the latitude, by observation, was 67° 49ʹ, and longitude 188° 47ʹ. - -On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy weather; and, on trying -the current, we found it set to the north-west, at the rate of half a -knot an hour. We continued to steer northward, with a moderate southerly -breeze, and fair weather, till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we -again found ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, to which we -could see no limits from the mast head. This at once dashed all our -hopes of penetrating farther; which had been considerably raised, by -having now advanced near ten leagues through a space, which, on the 9th, -we had found occupied by impenetrable ice. Our latitude, at this time, -was 69° 37ʹ; our position nearly in the mid channel between the two -continents; and the field of ice extending from east north-east, to west -south-west. - -As there did not remain the smallest prospect of getting farther north -in the part of the sea where we now were, Captain Clerke resolved to -make one more and final attempt on the American coast, for Baffin’s Bay, -since we had been able to advance the farthest on this side last year. -Accordingly, we kept working the remaining part of the day, to the -windward, with a fresh easterly breeze. We saw several fulmars and -arctic gulls, and passed two trees, both appearing to have lain in the -water a long time. The larger was about ten feet in length, and three in -circumference, without either bark or branches, but with the roots -remaining attached. - -On the 14th, we stood on to the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, -our course being nearly parallel to that we steered the 8th and 9th, but -six leagues more to the northward. On the 15th, the wind freshened from -the westward, and having in a great measure, dispersed the fog, we -immediately stood to the northward, that we might take a nearer view of -the ice; and in an hour were close in with it extending from north -north-west, to north-east. We found it to be compact and solid; the -outer parts were ragged, and of different heights; the interior surface -was even; and, we judged, from eight to ten feet above the level of the -sea. The weather becoming moderate for the remaining part of the day, we -directed our course according to the trending of the ice, which in many -parts formed deep bays. - -In the morning of the 16th, the wind freshened, and was attended with -thick and frequent showers of snow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a -strong gale from the west south-west, and brought us under double-reefed -top-sails; when, the weather clearing a little, we found ourselves -embayed; the ice having taken a sudden turn to the south-east, and in -one compact body surrounding us on all sides, except on the south -quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the southward, being at this -time in latitude 70° 8ʹ N. and in twenty-six fathoms’ water; and, as we -supposed, about twenty-five leagues from the coast of America. The gale -increasing, at four in the afternoon we close reefed the fore and -main-top-sails, furled the mizen-top-sail, and got the top-gallant-yards -down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had decreased to -twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as a proof of our near approach -to the American coast, we tacked and stood to the north. We had blowing -weather, accompanied with snow, through the night; but next morning, it -became clear and moderate; and, at eight in the forenoon, we got the -top-gallant-yards across, and made sail with the wind still at west -south-west. At noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 69° 55ʹ, -longitude 194° 80ʹ. Toward evening, the wind slackened, and at midnight -it was a calm. - -On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze sprung up from the -east north-east, with which we continued our course to the north, in -order to regain the ice as soon as possible. We passed some small logs -of drift-wood, and saw abundance of sea-parrots, and the small -ice-birds, and likewise a number of whales. At noon, the latitude, by -observation, was 70° 26ʹ, and longitude 194° 54ʹ; the depth of water -twenty-three fathoms; the ice stretched from north to east north-east, -and was distant about three miles. At one in the afternoon, finding that -we were close in with a firm united field of it, extending from west -north-west to east, we tacked, and the wind coming round to the -westward, stood on to the eastward, along its edge, till eleven at -night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water shoaling -to nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the south. The variation -observed this day was 31° 20ʹ E. It is remarkable, that though we saw no -sea-horses on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in -greater numbers on the detached fragments, than we had ever observed -before. About nine in the evening, a white bear was seen swimming close -by the Discovery; it afterward made to the ice, on which were also two -others. - -On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing up, we again -steered to the north-east, till two, when we were a second time so -completely embayed, that there was no opening left, but to the south; to -which quarter we accordingly directed our course, returning through a -remarkably smooth water, and with very favourable weather, by the same -way we had come in. We were never able to penetrate farther north than -at this time, when our latitude was 70° 33ʹ; and this was five leagues -short of the point to which we advanced last season. We held on to the -south south-west, with light winds from the north-west, by the edge of -the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and stretched between us and -the continent of America. Our latitude, by observation at noon, was 70° -11ʹ, our longitude 196° 15ʹ and the depth of water sixteen fathoms. From -this circumstance, we judged that the Icy Cape was now only at seven or -eight leagues’ distance; but, though the weather was in general clear, -it was at the same time hazy in the horizon; so that we could not expect -to see it. - -In the afternoon, we saw two white bears in the water, to which we -immediately gave chase in the jolly boat, and had the good fortune to -kill them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, -being shot first, the other would not quit it, though it might easily -have escaped on the ice, whilst the men were reloading, but remained -swimming about, till, after being fired upon several times, it was shot -dead. - -The dimensions of the larger were as follow: - - Feet. Inches. - From the snout to the end of the tail 7 2 - From the snout to the shoulder-bone 2 3 - Height of the shoulder 4 3 - Circumference near the fore-legs 4 10 - Breadth of the fore-paw 0 10 - - lb. - Weight of the four quarters 436 - Weight of the four quarters of the smallest 256 - -On comparing the dimensions of this with Lord Mulgrave’s white bear, -they were found almost exactly the same, except in the circumference, -where our’s fell exceedingly short. - -These animals afforded us a few excellent meals of fresh meat. The flesh -had indeed a strong fishy taste, but was, in every respect, infinitely -superior to that of the sea-horse; which, nevertheless, our people were -again persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their salted -provisions. - -At six in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on, we lost sight -of the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we saw the main body -again to the south south-east, when we hauled our wind, which was -easterly, toward it, in the expectation of making the American coast to -the south-east, and which we effected at half past ten. At noon, the -latitude, by account, was 69° 33ʹ, and longitude 194° 53ʹ, and the depth -of water nineteen fathoms. The land extended from south by east, to -south south-west half west, distant eight or ten leagues, being the same -we had seen last year; but it was now much more covered with snow than -at that time; and, to all appearance, the ice adhered to the shore. We -continued, in the afternoon, sailing through a sea of loose ice, and -standing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was east -south-east, would admit. At eight, the wind lessening, there came on a -thick fog; and, on perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the -current, which we found to set to the east north-east, at the rate of a -mile an hour, and therefore determined to steer, during the night, -before the wind, in order to stem it, and to oppose the large fragments -of loose ice, that were setting us on toward the land. The depth of the -water, at midnight, was twenty fathoms. - -At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening, and the fog -clearing away, we saw the American coast to the south-east, at the -distance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped -again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the -edge of it. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 34ʹ and longitude -193°, and the depth of water twenty-four fathoms. - -Thus, a connected, solid field of ice, rendering every effort we could -make to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, and joining, as we -judged, to it, we took a last farewell of a north-east passage to Old -England. I shall beg leave to give, in Captain Clerke’s own words, the -reasons of this his final determination, as well as of his future plans; -and this the rather, as it is the last transaction his health permitted -him to write down. - -“It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the northward upon -this coast (America); and it is equally as improbable that this amazing -mass of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining summer-weeks which -will terminate this season; but it will continue, it is to be believed, -as it now is, an insurmountable barrier to every attempt we can possibly -make. I, therefore, think it the best step that can be taken, for the -good of the service, to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to -try if I can find any opening, that will admit me farther north; if not, -to see what more is to be done upon that coast; where I hope, yet cannot -much flatter myself, to meet with better success; for the sea is now so -choked with ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the -question.” - - - - - CHAP. IV. - -FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO PENETRATE THROUGH THE ICE TO THE NORTH-WEST.— - DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DISCOVERY.—SEA-HORSES KILLED.—FRESH - OBSTRUCTIONS FROM THE ICE.—REPORT OF DAMAGES RECEIVED BY THE - DISCOVERY.—CAPTAIN CLERKE’S DETERMINATION TO PROCEED TO THE - SOUTHWARD.—JOY OF THE SHIPS’ CREWS ON THAT OCCASION.—PASS SERDZE - KAMEN.—RETURN THROUGH BEERING’S STRAITS.—INQUIRY INTO THE EXTENT OF - THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF ASIA.—REASONS FOR REJECTING MULLER’S MAP OF - THE PROMONTORY OF THE TSCHUTSKI.—REASONS FOR BELIEVING THE COAST DOES - NOT REACH A HIGHER LATITUDE THAN 70-1/2° NORTH.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS - ON THE IMPRACTICABILITY OF A NORTH-EAST, OR NORTH-WEST PASSAGE FROM - THE ATLANTIC INTO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.—COMPARATIVE VIEW OF THE PROGRESS - MADE IN THE YEARS 1778 AND 1779.—REMARKS ON THE SEA, AND SEA COASTS, - NORTH OF BEERING’S STRAITS.—HISTORY OF THE VOYAGE RESUMED.—PASS THE - ISLAND OF SAINT LAURENCE.—THE ISLAND OF MEDNOI.—DEATH OF CAPTAIN - CLERKE.—SHORT ACCOUNT OF HIS SERVICES. - - -Captain Clerke having determined, for the reasons assigned at the -conclusion of the last chapter, to give up all farther attempts on the -coast of America, and to make his last efforts in search of a passage on -the coast of the opposite continent, we continued, during the afternoon -of the 21st of July, to steer to the west north-west, through much loose -ice. At ten at night, discovering the main body of it through the fog, -right ahead, and almost close to us, and being unwilling to take a -southerly course, so long as we could possibly avoid it, we hauled our -wind, which was easterly, and stood to the northward; but, in an hour -after, the weather clearing up, and finding ourselves surrounded by a -compact field of ice, on every side, except to the south south-west, we -tacked, and stood on in that direction, in order to get clear of it. - -At noon of the 22d, our latitude, by observation, was 69° 30ʹ, and -longitude 187° 30ʹ. In the afternoon, we again came up with the ice, -which extended to the north-west and south-west, and obliged us to -continue our course to the southward, in order to weather it. - -It may be remarked, that since the 8th of this month, we had twice -traversed this sea, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had just -now made; that in the first of those traverses, we were not able to -penetrate so far north, by eight or ten leagues, as in the second; and -that in the last we had again found an united body of ice, generally -about five leagues to the southward of its position in the preceding -run. As this proves that the large compact fields of ice which we saw -were moveable, or diminishing, at the same time, it does not leave any -well-founded expectation of advancing much farther in the most -favourable seasons. - -At seven in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice in sight, we -bore away to the westward; but, at half past eight the fog dispersing, -we found ourselves in the midst of loose ice, and close in with the main -body; we therefore stood upon a wind, which was still easterly, and kept -beating to windward during the night, in hopes of weathering the loose -pieces, which the freshness of the wind kept driving down upon us in -such quantities, that we were in manifest danger of being blocked up by -them. - -In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we continued to -stand to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was every -instant lessening. At length, after using our utmost endeavours to clear -the loose ice, we were driven to the necessity of forcing a passage to -the southward, which at half past seven, we accomplished, but not -without subjecting the ship to some very severe shocks. The Discovery -was less successful. For, at eleven, when, they had nigh got clear out, -she became so entangled by several large pieces, that her way was -stopped, and immediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell, broadside -foremost, on the edge of a considerable body of ice; and having, at the -same time, an open sea to windward, the surf caused her to strike -violently upon it. This mass at length either so far broke, or moved, as -to set them at liberty to make another trial to escape; but, -unfortunately, before the ship gathered way enough to be under command, -she again fell to leeward on another fragment; and the swell making it -unsafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of getting clear, they -pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and made fast with -ice-hooks. - -In this dangerous situation we saw them at noon, about three miles from -us, bearing north-west, a fresh gale from the south-east driving more -ice to the north-west, and increasing the body that lay between us. Our -latitude, by account, was 69° 8ʹ, the longitude 187°, and the depth of -water twenty-eight fathoms. To add to the gloomy apprehensions which -began to force themselves on us, at half past four in the afternoon, the -weather becoming thick and hazy, we lost sight of the Discovery; but, -that we might be in a situation to afford her every assistance in our -power, we kept standing on close by the edge of the ice. At six, the -wind happily coming round to the north, gave us some hopes, that the ice -might drift away and release her; and in that case, as it was uncertain -in what condition she might come out, we kept firing a gun every half -hour, in order to prevent a separation. Our apprehensions for her safety -did not cease till nine, when we heard her guns in answers to ours; and -soon after, being hailed by her, were informed, that upon the change of -the wind the ice began to separate; and that, setting all their sails, -they forced a passage through it. We learned farther, that whilst they -were encompassed by it, they found the ship drift, with the main body, -to the north-east, at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were sorry to -find, that the Discovery had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing -from the bows, and was become very leaky, from the strokes she had -received when she fell upon the edge of the ice. - -On the 24th, we had fresh breezes from south-west, with hazy weather, -and kept running to the south-east till eleven in the forenoon, when a -large body of loose ice, extending from north north-east, round by the -east, to south south-east, and to which (though the weather was -tolerably clear) we could see no end, again obstructed our course. We -therefore kept working to windward, and at noon, our latitude, by -observation, was 68° 53ʹ, longitude 188°; the variation of the compass -22° 30ʹ E. At four in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoisted out -the boats in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in prodigious herds -on every side of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we -could make use of for eating, or for converting into lamp oil. We kept -on with the wind, from the south-west, along the edge of the ice, which -extended in a direction almost due east and west, till four in the -morning of the 25th, when observing a clear sea beyond it, to the -south-east, we made sail that way, with a view of forcing through it. By -six we had cleared it, and continued the remainder of the day running to -the south-east, without any ice in sight. At noon, our latitude, by -observation, was 68° 38ʹ, longitude 189° 9ʹ, and the depth of water -thirty fathoms. At midnight, we tacked, and stood to the westward, with -a fresh gale from the south; and at ten in the forenoon of the 26th, the -ice again showed itself, extending from north-west to south. It appeared -loose, and drifting, by the force of the wind, to the northward. At -noon, our latitude, by observation, was 68° N., longitude 188° 10ʹ E.; -and we had soundings with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part -of the day and till noon of the 27th, we kept standing backward and -forward, in order to clear ourselves of different bodies of ice. At -noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 67° 47ʹ, longitude 188°. At -two in the afternoon, we saw the continent to the south by east; and at -four, having run, since noon, with a south south-east wind to the -south-west, we were surrounded by loose masses of ice, with the firm -body of it in sight, stretching in a north by west, and a south by east -direction, as far as the eye could reach; beyond which we saw the coast -of Asia, bearing south, and south by east. - -As it was now necessary to come to some determination with respect to -the course we were next to steer, Captain Clerke sent a boat, with the -carpenters, on board the Discovery, to inquire into the particulars of -the damage she had sustained. They returned, in the evening, with the -report of Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both ships, that the -damages they had received were of a kind that would require three weeks -to repair; and that it would be necessary, for that purpose, to go into -some port. - -Thus, finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer -approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, -we judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering the safety of -the ships, as well as fruitless, with respect to the design of our -voyage, to make any farther attempts toward a passage. This, therefore, -added to the representations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke -not to lose more time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, -but to sail for Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there; and, before -the winter should set in, and render all other efforts toward discovery -impracticable, to explore the coast of Japan. - -I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance -of every individual, as soon as Captain Clerke’s resolutions were made -known. We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in -which the utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest -probability of success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after -an absence of three years, with a delight and satisfaction, which, -notwithstanding the tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense -distance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully -enjoyed, as if we had been already in sight of the Land’s-end. - -On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a fresh breeze from the -south-east, having the coast of Asia still in sight. At four in the -morning, the cape, which, on the authority of Muller, we have called -Serdze Kamen, bore south south-west, distant six or seven leagues. We -saw, in different places, upon the tops of the hills, which rise inland -on both sides of the cape, protuberances of a considerable height, which -had the appearance of huge rocks, or pillars of stone. - -On the 29th, the wind still continuing contrary, we made but slow -progress to the southward. At midnight, we had thick foggy weather, -accompanied with a breeze from the north north-west, with which we -directed our course to the south south-east, through the straits, and -had no land in sight till seven in the evening of the 30th; when the fog -clearing away, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing south by east, -distant about six leagues; and the island St. Diomede south-west by -west. We now altered our course to the west, and at eight made the east -cape, which, at midnight, bore west by north, distant four leagues. In -the night we steered to the south south-west, with a fresh west -north-westerly breeze; and, at four in the morning of the 31st, the east -cape bore north north-east, and the north-east part of the bay of St. -Laurence (where we anchored the last year) west by south, its distance -being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a -greater waste of time, than the object appeared to deserve, we ran -across the bay, regretting much, as we passed along, the loss of this -opportunity of paying a second visit to the Tschutski. At noon our -latitude, by observation, was 65° 6ʹ, and longitude 189°. The south -point of the bay of St. Laurence bore north by west one quarter west, -and was distant seven or eight leagues. In the afternoon the variation -was found to be 22° 50ʹ east. - -Having now passed Beering’s Straits, and taken our final leave of the -north-east coast of Asia, it may not be improper, on this occasion, to -state the grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general -conclusions respecting its extent, in opposition to the opinions of Mr. -Muller. The first, that the promontory named East Cape is actually the -easternmost point of that quarter of the globe; or, in other words, that -no part of the continent extends in longitude beyond 190° 22ʹ E.: the -second, that the latitude of the north-easternmost extremity falls to -the southward of 70° N. With respect to the former, if such land exist, -it must necessarily be to the north of latitude 69°, where the -discoveries made in the present voyage terminate; and, therefore, the -probable direction of the coast, beyond this point, is the question I -shall endeavour, in the first place, to investigate. - -As the Russian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated these -seas, all our information respecting the situation of the coast to the -northward of Cape North, must necessarily be derived from the charts and -journals of the persons who have been employed at various times, in -ascertaining the limits of that empire; and these are, for the most -part, so imperfect, so confused and contradictory, that it is not easy -to form any distinct idea of their pretended, much less to collect the -amount of their real discoveries. It is on this account, that the extent -and form of the peninsula, inhabited by the Tschutski, still remains a -point, on which the Russian geographers are much divided. Mr. Muller, in -his map, published in the year 1754, supposes this country to extend -toward the north-east, to the 75° of latitude, and in longitude 190° -east of Greenwich, and to terminate in a round cape, which he calls -Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of this cape he conceives the coast -to form a bay to the westward, bounded in latitude 67° 18ʹ, by Serdze -Kamen, the northernmost point seen by Beering in his expedition in the -year 1728. The map published by the Academy of St. Petersburg, in the -year 1776, gives the whole peninsula entirely a new form, placing its -north easternmost extremity in the latitude 73°, longitude 178° 30ʹ. The -easternmost point in latitude 65° 30ʹ, longitude 189° 30ʹ. All the other -maps we saw, both printed and in manuscript, vary between these two, -apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler, than on any -grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which there is a -general coincidence, without any considerable variation, is in the -position of the east Cape, in latitude 66°. The form of the coast, both -to the south and north of this cape, in the map of the academy, is -exceedingly erroneous, and may be totally disregarded. In that of Mr. -Muller, the coast to the northward bears a considerable resemblance to -our survey, as far as the latter extends, except that it does not trend -sufficiently to the westward; receding only about 5° of longitude, -between the latitude of 66° and 69°; whereas, in reality, it recedes -near ten. Between the latitude 69° and 74°, he makes the coast bend -round to the north and north-east, and to form a considerable -promontory. On what authority, now remains to be examined. - -Mr. Coxe, whose accurate researches into this subject, give his opinion -great weight, is persuaded that the extremity of the _Noss_ in question -was never passed but by Deshneff and his party, who sailed from the -river Kovyma in the year 1648, and are supposed to have got round it -into the Anadyr. As the account of this expedition, the substance of -which the reader will find in Mr. Coxe’s account of Russian discoveries, -contains no geographical delineation of the coast along which they -sailed, its position must be conjectured from incidental circumstances; -and from these it appears very manifest, that the Tschukotskoi Noss of -Deshneff is no other than the promontory called by Captain Cook the East -Cape. Speaking of the _Noss_, he says, “One might sail from the isthmus -to the river Anadyr, with a fair wind, in three days and three nights.” -This exactly coincides with the situation of the East Cape, which is -about one hundred and twenty leagues from the mouth of the Anadyr; and -as there is no other isthmus to the northward between that and the -latitude of 69°, it is obvious, that, by this description, he must -intend either the cape in question, or some other to the southward of -it. In another place he says, “Over against the isthmus there are two -islands in the sea, upon which were seen people of the Tschutski nation -through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the sea-horse.” This -again perfectly agrees with the two islands situated to the south-east -of the East Cape. We saw indeed no inhabitants on them; but it is not at -all improbable, that a party of the Americans, from the opposite -continent, whom this description accurately suits, might, at that time, -have been accidentally there: and whom it was natural enough for him to -mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski.[22] - -These two circumstances are of so striking and unequivocal a nature, -that they appear to me conclusive on the point of the Tschukotskoi Noss, -notwithstanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have -from the same authority, and which now remain to be considered. “To go,” -says Deshneff in another account, “from the Kovyma to the Anadyr, a -great promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea; -and afterward, this promontory stretches between north and north-east.” -It was probably from the expressions contained in these passages, that -Mr. Muller was induced to give the country of the Tschutski the form we -find in his map; but had he been acquainted with the situation of the -East Cape, as ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable -coincidence between it and their promontory or isthmus (for it must be -observed that Deshneff appears to be all along speaking of the same -thing), in the circumstances already mentioned, I am confident he would -not have thought those expressions merely by themselves, of sufficient -weight to warrant him in extending the north-eastern extremity of Asia -either so far to the north or to the eastward. For after all these -expressions are not irreconcileable with the opinion we have adopted, if -we suppose Deshneff to have taken these bearings from the small bight -which lies to the westward of the cape. - -The deposition of the Cossac Popoff, taken at the Anadirskoi _ostrog_ in -the year 1711, seems to have been the next authority on which Mr. Muller -has proceeded; and beside these two I am not acquainted with any other. -This Cossac, together with several others, was sent by land to demand -tribute from the independent Tschutski tribes, who lived about the Noss. -The first circumstance in the account of this journey that can lead to -the situation of Tschukotskoi Noss is its distance from Anadirsk; and -this is stated to be ten weeks’ journey with loaded rein-deer; on which -account, it is added, their day’s journey was but very small. It is -impossible to conclude much from so vague an account; but as the -distance between the east cape and the _ostrog_ is upward of two hundred -leagues in a straight line, and therefore may be supposed to allow -twelve or fifteen miles a day; its situation cannot be reckoned -incompatible with Popoff’s calculation. The next circumstance mentioned -in this deposition is, that their route lay by the foot of a rock called -Matkol, situated at the bottom of a great gulf. This gulf Muller -supposes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude 66° and 72°; -and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it; but it -appears equally probable, even if we had not so many reasons to doubt -the existence of that bay, that it might be some part of the gulf of -Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the -_ostrog_ to the East Cape. - -But what seems to put this matter beyond all dispute, and to prove that -the cape visited by Popoff cannot be to the northward of 69° latitude, -is that part of his deposition which I have already quoted, relative to -the island lying off the Noss, from whence the opposite continent might -be seen. For as the two continents in latitude 69°, have diverged so far -as to be more than three hundred miles distant, it is highly improbable -that the Asiatic coast should again trend in such a manner to the -eastward, as to come nearly within sight of the coast of America. - -If these arguments should be deemed conclusive against the existence of -the peninsula of the Tschutski, as laid down by Muller, it will follow -that the East Cape of the Tschukotskoi Noss of the[23] more early -Russian navigators, and consequently that the undescribed coast from the -latitude of 69° to the mouth of the river Kovyma, must uniformly trend -more or less to the westward. As an additional proof of this, it may be -remarked that the Tschukotskoi Noss is always represented as dividing -the sea of Kovyma from that of Anadir, which could not be the case if -any considerable cape had projected to the north-east in the higher -latitudes. - -Thus, in the depositions taken at Anadirsk, it is related “that opposite -the Noss, on both sides, as well in the sea of Kovyma as in that of -Anadir, an island is said to be seen at a great distance, which the -Tschutski call a large country; and say that people dwell there who have -large teeth put in their mouths that project through their cheeks.” Then -follows a description of these people and their country, exactly -corresponding with our accounts of the opposite continent. - -The last question that arises is, to what degree of northern latitude -this coast extends, before it trends more directly to the westward. If -the situation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with respect to its -latitude and longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not -be very difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain -Cook was always strongly of opinion that the northern coast of Asia from -the Indigirka eastward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than -two degrees to the northward of its true position; and he has therefore, -on the authority of a map that was in his possession, and on the -information he received at Oonalashka, placed the mouth of the river -Kovyma, in his chart of the north-west coast of America and the -north-east coast of Asia, in the latitude of 68°. Should he be right in -this conjecture, it is probable, for the reasons that have been already -stated, that the Asiatic coast does not any where exceed 70° before it -trends to the westward; and consequently that we were within 1° of its -north-eastern extremity. For if the continent be supposed to stretch any -where to the northward of Shelatskoi Noss, it is scarcely possible that -so extraordinary a circumstance should not have been mentioned by the -Russian navigators; and we have already shown that they make mention of -no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma and the Anadir, except the -East Cape. Another circumstance related by Deshneff, may perhaps be -thought a further confirmation of this opinion, namely, that he met with -no impediment from ice in navigating round the north-east extremity of -Asia; though he adds that this sea is not always so free from it; as -indeed is manifest from the failure of his first expedition, and since -that, from the unsuccessful attempts of Shalauroff, and the obstacles we -met with, in two different years, in our present voyage. - -The continent left undetermined in our chart, between Cape North and the -mouth of the Kovyma, is in longitudinal extent one hundred and -twenty-five leagues. One third or about forty leagues of this distance, -from the Kovyma eastward, was explored in the year 1723 by a -_Sinbojarskoi_ of Jakutz, whose name was Fedot Amossoff, by whom Mr. -Muller was informed that its direction was to the eastward. It is said -to have been since accurately surveyed by Shalauroff, whose chart makes -it trend to the north-east by east as far as the Shelatskoi Noss, which -he places about forty-three leagues to the eastward of the Kovyma. The -space between this Noss and Cape North, about eighty-two leagues, is -therefore the only part of the Russian empire that now remains -unascertained. - -But if the river Kovyma be erroneously situated with respect to its -longitude as well as in its latitude, a supposition for which probable -grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coast will become -proportionably diminished. The reasons which incline me to believe that -the mouth of this river is placed in the Russian charts much too far to -the westward, are as follow: First, because the accounts that are given -of the navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river round the north-east -point of Asia to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the supposed -distance between those places. Secondly, because the distance over land -from the Kovyma to the Anadir, is represented by the early Russian -travellers as a journey easily performed, and of no very extraordinary -length. Thirdly, because the coast from the Shelatskoi Noss of -Shalauroff[24] seems to trend directly south-east to the East Cape. If -this be so, it will follow, that as we were probably not more than 1° to -the southward of Shelatskoi Noss, only sixty miles of the Asiatic coast -remained unascertained. - -Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in -a second attempt, the impracticability of a north-east or north-west -passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtless have -laid before the public, in one connected view, an account of the -obstacles which defeated this, the primary object of our expedition, -together with his observations on a subject of such magnitude, and which -had engaged the attention and divided the opinions of philosophers and -navigators for upward of two hundred years. I am very sensible how -unequal I am to the task of supplying this deficiency; but that the -expectations of the reader may not be wholly disappointed, I must beg -his candid acceptance of the following observations, as well as of those -I have already ventured to offer him, relative to the extent of the -north-east coast of Asia. - -The evidence that has been so fully and judiciously stated in the -introduction, amounts to the highest degree of probability that a -north-west passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot -exist to the southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exists a -passage, it must be either through Baffin’s Bay, or round by the north -of Greenland, in the western hemisphere; or else through the Frozen -Ocean, to the northward of Siberia, in the eastern; and on which ever -side it lies, the navigator must necessarily pass through Beering’s -Straits. The impracticability of penetrating into the Atlantic on either -side, through this strait, is therefore all that remains to be submitted -to the consideration of the public. - -As far as our experience went, it appears, that the sea to the north of -Beering’s Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps -in a part of September it may be still more free. But after the equinox, -the days shorten so fast, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we -cannot rationally allow so great an effect to the warm weather in the -first half of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice -from the most northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this -to be possible, it must at least be granted, that it would be madness to -attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin’s Bay (a -distance of four hundred and twenty leagues), in so short a time as that -passage can be supposed to continue open. - -Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success, -both from what came to our own knowledge with respect to the state of -the sea to the southward of Cape North, and also from what we learn from -the experience of the[25] lieutenants under Beering’s direction, and the -journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the north of Siberia. - -The voyage of Deshneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the -possibility of passing round the north-east point of Asia; but when the -reader reflects, that near a century and a half has elapsed since the -time of that navigator, during which, in an age of great curiosity and -enterprise, no man has yet been able to follow him, he will not -entertain very sanguine expectations of the public advantages that can -be derived from it. But let us even suppose, that in some singularly -favourable season a ship has found a clear passage round the coast of -Siberia, and is safely arrived at the mouth of the Lena, still there -remains the Cape of Taimura, stretching to the 78° of latitude, which -the good fortune of no single voyager has hitherto doubled. - -It is, however, contended, that there are strong reasons for believing -that the sea is more free from ice the nearer we approach to the pole; -and that all the ice we saw in the lower latitudes was formed in the -great rivers of Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled -the intermediate sea. But even if that supposition be true, it is -equally so that there can be no access to those open seas, unless this -great mass of ice is so far dissolved in the summer, as to admit of a -ship’s getting through it. If this be the fact, we have taken a wrong -time of the year for attempting to find this passage, which should have -been explored in April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But -how many reasons may be given against such a supposition? Our experience -at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to judge what might be expected -farther north; and upon that ground we had reason to doubt, whether the -continents might not in winter be even joined by the ice; and this -agreed with the stories we heard in Kamtschatka, that on the Siberian -coast they go out from the shore in winter, upon the ice, to greater -distances than the breadth of the sea is, in some parts, from one -continent to the other. - -In the depositions referred to above, the following remarkable -circumstance is related. Speaking of the land seen from the Tschukotskoi -Noss, it is said, “that in summer time they sail in one day to the land -in baidares, a sort of vessel constructed of whalebone, and covered with -seal-skins; and in winter time, going swift with rein-deer, the journey -may likewise be made in a day.” A sufficient proof that the two -countries were usually joined together by the ice. - -The account given by Mr. Muller of one of the expeditions undertaken to -discover a supposed island in the Frozen Sea, is still more remarkable. -“In the year 1714, a new expedition was prepared from Jakutzk for the -same place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was to sail from -the mouth of the Jana; and if the _Schitiki_ were not fit for -sea-voyages, he was to construct, at a proper place, vessels fit for -prosecuting the discoveries without danger. - -“On his arrival at Ust-janskoe Simovie, the port at which he was to -embark, he sent an account dated February 2. 1715, to the chancery of -Jakutzk, mentioning that it was impossible to navigate the sea, as it -was continually frozen both in summer and winter; and that consequently -the intended expedition was no otherwise to be carried on but with -sledges drawn by dogs. In this manner he accordingly set out with nine -persons on the 10th of March the same year, and returned on the 3d of -April to Ust-janskoe Simovie. The account of his journey is as follows: -that he went seven days as fast as his dogs could draw him, (which in -good ways and weather is eighty or a hundred wersts in a day,) directly -toward the north upon the ice, without discovering any island: that it -had not been possible for him to proceed any farther, the ice rising -there in the sea like mountains; that he had climbed to the top of some -of them, whence he was able to see to a great distance round about him, -but could discern no appearance of land; and that at last wanting food -for his dogs, many of them died, which obliged them to return.” - -Beside these arguments, which proceed upon an admission of the -hypothesis that the ice in those seas comes from the rivers, there are -others which give great room to suspect the truth of the hypothesis -itself. Captain Cook, whose opinion respecting the formation of ice had -formerly coincided with that of the theorists we are now controverting, -found abundant reason in the present voyage for changing his sentiments. -We found the coast of each continent to be low, the soundings gradually -decreasing toward them, and a striking resemblance between the two; -which, together with the description Mr. Hearne gives of the Coppermine -river, afford reason to conjecture that whatever rivers may empty -themselves into the Frozen Sea from the American continent, are of the -same nature with those on the Asiatic side; which are represented to be -so shallow at the entrance as to admit only small vessels; whereas the -ice we have seen, rises above the level of the sea to a height equal to -the depth of those rivers; so that its entire height must be at least -ten times greater. - -The curious reader will also in this place be led naturally to reflect -on another circumstance, which appears very incompatible with the -opinion of those who imagine land to be necessary for the formation of -ice; I mean the different state of the sea about Spitzbergen, and to the -north of Beering’s Straits. It is incumbent on them to explain how it -comes to pass that in the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much -known land, the navigator annually penetrates to near 80° north -latitude; whereas, on the other side, his utmost efforts have not been -able to carry him beyond 71°; where, moreover, the continents diverge -nearly east and west, and where there is no land yet known to exist near -the pole. For the farther satisfaction of the reader on this point, I -shall beg leave to refer him to _Observations made during a Voyage round -the World_, by Dr. Forster, where he will find the question of the -formation of ice fully and satisfactorily discussed, and the probability -of open polar seas disproved by a variety of powerful arguments. - -I shall conclude these remarks with a short comparative view of the -progress we made to the northward, at the two different seasons we were -engaged in that pursuit, together with a few general observations -relative to the sea, and the coast of the two continents which lie to -the north of Beering’s Straits. - -It may be observed, that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice -till we advanced to the latitude of 70°, on August 17th; and that then -we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, -and of which a part or the whole was moveable, since, by its drifting -down upon us, we narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the -land. After experiencing both how fruitless and dangerous it would be to -attempt to penetrate farther north, between the ice and the land, we -stood over toward the Asiatic side, between the latitude of 69° and 70°, -frequently encountering in this tract large and extensive fields of ice; -and though, by reason of the fogs and thickness of the weather, we were -not able absolutely and entirely to trace a connected line of it across, -yet we were sure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of 70°, -whenever we attempted to stand to the northward. On the 26th of August, -in latitude 69-3/4°, and longitude 184°, we were obstructed by it in -such quantities, as made it impossible for us to pass either to the -north or west, and obliged us to run along the edge of it to the south -south-west till we saw land, which we afterward found to be the coast of -Asia. With the season thus far advanced, the weather setting in with -snow and sleet, and other signs of approaching winter, we abandoned our -enterprize for that time. - -In this second attempt we could do little more than confirm the -observations we had made in the first; for we were never able to -approach the continent of Asia higher than the latitude of 67°, nor that -of America in any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of -68° and 68° 20ʹ, that were not seen the last year. We were now -obstructed by ice 3° lower, and our endeavours to push farther to the -northward were principally confined to the mid-space between the two -coasts. We penetrated near 3° farther on the American side than on the -Asiatic, meeting with the ice both years sooner, and in greater -quantities on the latter coast. As we advanced north, we still found the -ice more compact and solid; yet as in our different traverses from side -to side, we passed over spaces which had before been covered with it, we -conjectured that most of what we saw was moveable. - -Its height on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that -of the highest to have been sixteen or eighteen. We again tried the -currents twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an -hour. By comparing the reckoning with the observations, we also found -the current to set different ways, yet more from the south-west than any -other quarter; but whatever their direction might be, their effect was -so trifling that no conclusions respecting the existence of any passage -to the northward, could be drawn from them. We found the month of July -to be infinitely colder than that of August. The thermometer in July was -once at 28°, and very commonly at 30°; whereas the last year, in August, -it was very rare to have it so low as the freezing point. - -In both seasons we had some high winds, all of which came from the -south-west. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was moderate, from -whatever quarter, but they attended southerly winds more constantly than -contrary ones. - -The straits between the two continents, at their nearest approach, in -latitude 66°, were ascertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they -diverge to N. E. by E. and W. N. W.; and in latitude 69°, they become -14° of longitude or about one hundred leagues asunder. A great -similarity is observable in the appearance of the two countries to the -northward of the straits. Both are destitute of wood. The shores are -low, with mountains rising to a great height farther up the country. The -depth of water in the mid-way between them was twenty-nine and thirty -fathoms, decreasing gradually as we approached either continent, with -the difference of being somewhat shoaler on the American than on the -Asiatic coast, at the same distance from land. The bottom in the middle -was a soft slimy mud; and on drawing near to either shore, a brown sand, -intermixed with small fragments of bones, and a few shells. We observed -but little tide or current; what there was came from the westward. - -But it is now time to resume the narrative of our voyage, which was -broken off on the 31st of July, on which day at noon we had advanced -eighteen leagues to the southward of the East Cape. - -We had light airs from the south-west till noon of the 1st of August, at -which time our latitude, by observation, was 64° 23ʹ, longitude 189° -15ʹ, the coast of Asia, extended from north-west by west to west half -south, distant about twelve leagues; and the land to the eastward of St. -Laurence bore south half west. On the 2d, the weather becoming clear, we -saw the same land at noon, bearing from west-south-west half west to -south-east, making in a number of high hummocks, which had the -appearance of separate islands; the latitude, by observation, was 64° 3ʹ -longitude 189° 28ʹ, and depth of water seventeen fathoms. We did not -approach this land sufficiently near to determine whether it was one -island, or composed of a cluster together. Its westernmost part we -passed July 3d, in the evening, and then supposed to be the island of -Saint Laurence; the easternmost we ran close by in September last year, -and this we named Clerke’s Island, and found it to consist of a number -of high cliffs, joined together by very low land. Though we mistook, the -last year, those cliffs for separate islands, till we approached very -near the shore, I should still conjecture that the island Saint Laurence -was distinct from Clerke’s island, since there appeared a considerable -space between them, where we could not perceive the smallest rising of -ground. In the afternoon, we also saw what bore the appearance of a -small island, to the north-east of the land, which was seen at noon, and -which from the haziness of the weather we had only sight of once. We -estimated its distance to be nineteen leagues from the island of Saint -Laurence, in a north-east by east half east direction. On the 3d, we had -light variable winds, and directed our course round the north-west point -of the island of Saint Laurence. On the 4th at noon, our latitude, by -account, was 64° 8ʹ, longitude 188°; the island Saint Laurence bearing -south one quarter east, distant seven leagues. In the afternoon, a fresh -breeze springing up from the east, we steered to the south-south-west, -and soon lost sight of Saint Laurence. On the 7th, at noon, the -latitude, by observation, was 59° 38ʹ, longitude 183°. In the afternoon -it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in seventy-eight fathoms -of water. The variation was found to be 19° E. From this time to the -17th, we were making the best of our way to the south, without any -occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind, coming from the -western quarter, forced us farther to the eastward than we wished, as it -was our intention to make Beering’s Island. - -On the 17th, at half past four in the morning, we saw land to the -north-west, which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that -quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 53° 49ʹ, longitude -168° 5ʹ, and variation 10° E. The land in sight bore north by west, -twelve or fourteen leagues distant. This land we take to be the island -Mednoi, laid down in the Russian charts to the south-east of Beering’s -Island. It is high land, and appeared clear of snow. We place it in the -latitude 54° 28ʹ, longitude 167° 52ʹ. We got no soundings with one -hundred and fifty fathoms of line. - -Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed; he -therefore desired that the officers would receive their orders from me, -and directed that we should proceed with all speed to Awatska Bay. The -wind continuing westerly, we stood on to the south till early on the -morning of the 19th, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the -eastward, and freshened to a strong gale. We accordingly made the most -of it whilst it lasted, by standing to the westward under all the sail -we could carry. On the 20th, the wind shifting to the south-west, our -course was to the west-north-west. At noon, the latitude by observation -was 53° 7ʹ, longitude 162° 49ʹ. On the 21st, at half past five in the -morning, we saw a very high-peaked mountain on the coast of Kamtschatka, -called Cheepoonskoi Mountain, from its lying behind the Noss, bearing -north-west by north, twenty-five or thirty leagues distant. At noon, the -coast extended from north by east to west, with a very great haziness -upon it, and distant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the -remaining part of this and the following day, and got no soundings with -one hundred and forty fathoms of line. - -On the 22d of August, 1779, at nine o’clock in the morning, departed -this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. -He died of a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left -England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very -gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet -the equanimity with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits, -which continued to the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his -fate, afforded them some consolation. It was impossible not to feel a -more than common degree of compassion for a person whose life had been a -continued scene of those difficulties and hardships to which a seaman’s -occupation is subject, and under which he at last sunk. He was brought -up to the navy from his earliest youth, and had been in several actions -during the war which began in 1756, particularly in that between the -Bellona and Courageux, where, being stationed in the mizen-top, he was -carried overboard with the mast, but was taken up without having -received any hurt. He was midshipman in the Dolphin, commanded by -Commodore Byron, on her first voyage round the world, and afterward -served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second voyage round -the world, in the Endeavour, as master’s mate, and by the promotion -which took place during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant. His -third voyage round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was -appointed the second lieutenant: and soon after his return, in 1775, he -was promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present -expedition was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the -Discovery, to accompany Captain Cook; and by the death of the latter -succeeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. - -It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during -the short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most -zealous and anxious for its success. His health, about the time the -principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and -was every way unequal to encounter the rigours of a high northern -climate. But the vigour and activity of his mind had in no shape -suffered by the decay of his body: and though he knew, that by delaying -his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that -remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the last degree -that a regard to his own situation should never bias his judgment to the -prejudice of the service, he persevered in the search of a passage till -it was the opinion of every officer in both ships that it was -impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruitless -but dangerous. - - - - - CHAP. V. - -RETURN TO THE HARBOUR OF SAINT PETER AND SAINT PAUL.—PROMOTION OF - OFFICERS.—FUNERAL OF CAPTAIN CLERKE.—DAMAGES OF THE DISCOVERY - REPAIRED.—VARIOUS OTHER OCCUPATIONS OF THE SHIPS’ CREWS.—LETTERS FROM - THE COMMANDER.—SUPPLY OF FLOUR AND NAVAL STORES FROM A RUSSIAN - GALLIOT.—ACCOUNT OF AN EXILE.—BEAR-HUNTING AND FISHING PARTIES.— - DISGRACE OF THE SERJEANT.—CELEBRATION OF THE KING’S CORONATION-DAY, - AND VISIT FROM THE COMMANDER.—THE SERJEANT REINSTATED.—A RUSSIAN - SOLDIER PROMOTED AT OUR REQUEST.—REMARKS ON THE DISCIPLINE OF THE - RUSSIAN ARMY.—CHURCH AT PARATOUNCA.—METHOD OF BEAR-HUNTING.—FARTHER - ACCOUNT OF THE BEARS AND KAMTSCHADALES.—INSCRIPTION TO THE MEMORY OF - CAPTAIN CLERKE.—SUPPLY OF CATTLE.—ENTERTAINMENTS ON THE EMPRESS’S - NAME-DAY.—PRESENT FROM THE COMMANDER.—ATTEMPT OF A MARINE TO DESERT.— - WORK OUT OF THE BAY.—NAUTICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF AWATSKA - BAY.—ASTRONOMICAL TABLES, AND OBSERVATIONS. - - -I sent Mr. Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain -Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my -endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a -separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of St. Peter and -St. Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8ʹ N., longitude 160° 40ʹ E., -with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing west. We had light airs in the afternoon, -which lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze -springing up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska -Bay; and at six in the evening, saw it bearing west-north-west half -west, distant five leagues. At eight, the light-house, in which we now -found a good light, bore north-west by west, three miles distant. The -wind about this time died away; but the tide being in our favour, we -sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow parts of the entrance; -and at one o’clock in the morning of the 24th, the ebb-tide setting -against us, we dropped anchor. At nine, we weighed, and turned up the -bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one; when, by the -help of a fresh breeze, we anchored, before three in the afternoon, in -the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign half-staff -up, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain; and were -soon after followed by the Discovery. - -We had no sooner anchored, than our old friend, the serjeant, who was -still the commander of the place, came on board with a present of -berries, intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly -affected when we told him of his death, and showed him the coffin that -contained his body. And as it was Captain Clerke’s particular request to -be buried on shore, and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we -took the present opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant, -and consulting with him about the proper steps to be taken on the -occasion. In the course of our conversation, which, for want of an -interpreter, was carried on but imperfectly, we learned that professor -de L’Isle, and several Russian gentlemen, who died here, had been buried -in the ground near the barracks, at the _ostrog_ of St. Peter and St. -Paul; and that this place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the -church was to be removed thither the next year. It was therefore -determined, that we should wait for the arrival of the priest of -Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the only person -that could satisfy our inquiries on this subject. The serjeant having, -at the same time, signified his intentions of sending off an express to -the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain -Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which -he requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all -possible expedition; and because the commander did not understand any -language except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the -serjeant, who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an -explanation of its contents. - -We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much -improved in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked, -if possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they -observed, that this was also the case with us; and as neither party -seemed to like to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual -consolation in throwing the blame upon the country, whose green and -lively complexion, we agreed, cast a deadness and sallowness upon our -own. - -The irruption of the volcano, which was so violent when we sailed out of -the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had -fallen at the _ostrog_, of the size of a goose’s egg. This was all the -news we had to inquire after, and all they had to tell; excepting that -of the arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the -packet Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us -much satisfaction to find, had been forwarded. - -In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, -in consequence of Captain Clerke’s death; appointing himself to the -command of the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and -Mr. Lanyan, master’s mate of the Resolution, who had served in that -capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to -the vacant lieutenancy. These promotions produced the following farther -arrangements; Lieutenants Burney and Rickman were removed from the -Discovery, to be first and second lieutenants of the Resolution; and -Lieutenant Williamson was appointed first lieutenant of the Discovery, -Captain Gore also permitted me to take into the Discovery four -midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in astronomical -calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly necessary, as we -had no _ephemeris_ for the present year. And, that astronomical -observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr. Bayley took my -place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the Pope -Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his -sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his -feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant, respecting -the intended removal of the church to the harbour; adding, that the -timber was actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place -entirely to Captain Gore. - -The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the -ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having, ever since, been -exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started. -Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist -our own in repairing her; and accordingly, the forehold being cleared, -to lighten her forward, they were set to work to rip the damaged -sheathing from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three -feet of the third strake, under the wale, were staved, and the timbers -within started. A tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of -our people as were employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into -the country, to the northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The -observatories were erected at the west end of the village, near a tent, -in which Captain Gore and myself took up our abode. - -The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we -discovered of the decayed state of the ship’s hull. The next morning, -eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly -rotten, as to make it necessary to shift it. This left us for some time -at a stand, as nothing was to be found, in either ship, wherewith to -replace it, unless we chose to cut up a top-mast; an expedient not to be -had recourse to, till all others failed. The carpenters were therefore -sent on shore in the afternoon in search of a tree big enough for the -purpose. Luckily they found a birch, which I believe was the only one of -sufficient size in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which had -been sawed down by us when we were last here; so that it had the -advantage of having lain some time to season. This was shaped on the -spot, and brought on board the next morning. - -As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or -hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore’s farther views of -discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be -ripped off, than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages -sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting -with more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in -that state, than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that -such was to be had. All hands were at present, busily employed in -separate duties, that every thing might be in readiness for sea, against -the time our carpenters should have finished their work. We set apart -four men to haul the seine for salmon, which were caught in great -abundance, and found to be of an excellent quality. After supplying the -immediate wants of both ships, we salted down near a hogshead a-day. The -invalids, who were four in number, were employed in gathering greens, -and in cooking for the parties on shore. Our powder was also landed, in -order to be dried; and the sea-horse blubber, with which both ships, in -our passage to the north (as has been before related), had stored -themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was become a necessary -article, our candles having long since been expended. The cooper was -fully engaged in his department: and in this manner were both ships’ -companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday -afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for -the purpose of washing their linen and getting their clothes in some -little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday. - -In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain -Clerke. The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the -grave, whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended, -the marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree, which -stands on rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, -where the hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having -judged this situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, -for the reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having -pointed out a spot for his grave, which, he said, would be as near as he -could guess, in the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor -walked in the procession, along with the gentleman who read the service; -and all the Russians in the garrison were assembled, and attended with -great respect and solemnity. - -On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective -employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and on -the 2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and -damaged planks, and repaired and calked the sheathing of the larboard -bow, proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the -ice, from the starboard side. Here, again, they discovered four feet of -a plank, in the third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it -necessary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing -repaired on the 3d. In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board -some ballast, unhung the rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the -pintles being found entirely worn away, and a great part of the -sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters of the Resolution were not yet -wanted, we got this set to rights the next day, but finding the rudder -out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than that of the Resolution, -we let it remain on shore, in order to dry and lighten. - -The same day, an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the -commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant’s hands, and, -by his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given -about the cattle; and that they might be expected here in a few days; -and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would -himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was -daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer, who brought the letter, -was the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition -on discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at -this time at Okotzk.[26] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our -directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our -service might require; and that he should remain with us, till the -commander was himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to -return, that the garrison there might not be left without an officer. - -On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were -employed in scrubbing the ship’s bottom, and getting in eight tons of -shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns, that had been stowed in -the fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit -nations, our receptions amongst whom might a good deal depend on the -respectability of our appearance. - -The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damages, which -she had also received among the ice, in her cutwater; and our -carpenters, in their turn, were sent to her assistance. - -About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of -dwarf-pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might -hereafter be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able -to procure sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all -events, I was sure it would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy; -and was more particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of -it as I could procure, because most of the preventives we had brought -out, were either used or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared -a hogshead of it, the ship’s copper was discovered to be very thin, and -cracked in many places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders, -that it should be used as sparingly, for the future as possible. It -might, perhaps, be an useful precaution for those who may hereafter be -engaged in long voyages of this kind, either to provide themselves with -a spare copper, or to see that the copper usually furnished be of the -strongest kind. The various extra-services, in which it will be found -necessary to employ them, and especially the important one of making -anti-scorbutic decoctions, seem absolutely to require some such -provision; and I should rather recommend the former on account of the -additional quantity of fuel that would be consumed in heating thick -coppers. - -In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow -into the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five -days on her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight -ago, beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time, the crew had -sent their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be -in great want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return; -and the galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered -exceedingly. - -There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children; and -several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of -twenty-five; so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board; a -great number for a vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden -with stores and provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here -in May, are built like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to -anchor, we received a visit from a _Put-parouchick_, or sub-lieutenant, -who was passenger in the galliot, and sent to take the command of this -place. Part of the soldiers, we understood, were also designed to -reinforce the garrison; and two pieces of small cannon were landed, as -an additional defence to the town. It should seem, from these -circumstances, that our visit here had drawn the attention of the -Russian commanders in Siberia to the defenceless situation of the place; -and I was told by the honest serjeant, with many significant shrugs, -that, as we had found our way into it, other nations might do the same, -some of whom might not be altogether so welcome. - -Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired -the damages she had sustained by the ice; and in the course of the day, -we got from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and -twine; canvas was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty -store did not put it into their power to supply us. We also received -from her an hundred and forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds -English, after deducting five pounds for the weight of each bag. - -We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came -on a heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged -us to strike our yards and top-masts. - -The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather -unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage -from it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great -quantities and varieties on the coast; and taking other pastime on -shore. The same day, Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with -the remainder of the soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our -constant guest during his stay. Indeed, we could not but consider him, -on his father’s account, as in some measure belonging to us, and -entitled, as one of the family of discoverers, to a share in our -affections. - -We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of -his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick -sensible man, and comprehended better than any other the few Russian -words we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to -enjoy the same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the -new commander from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which -we could not learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to -sit down in the company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of -making any attempt to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have -been highly agreeable to us, was doubtless incompatible with their -discipline. - -On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds; got on board all -our wood and water; and were ready to put to sea at a day’s notice. It -is however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this -degree of readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from -Verchnei; and as fresh provisions were the most important article of our -wants, and in a great measure necessary for the health of the men, we -could not think of taking our departure without them. We, therefore, -thought this a favourable opportunity (especially as there was an -appearance of fine weather) of taking some amusement on shore, and -acquiring a little knowledge of the country. Accordingly, Captain Gore -proposed a party of bear-hunting, which we all very readily came into. - -We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to -give a day’s rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was -to be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman, -who, we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by -Major Behm to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our -interpreter; and the accounts we had heard of him, before his arrival, -had excited in us a great curiosity to see him. - -He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in -the empress’s service; and he himself, after having received his -education partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the -Empress Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he -was _knowted_, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia and -afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He -was a very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep -wrinkles; and bore, in his whole figure, the strongest marks of old age, -though he had scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year. - -To our very great disappointment, he had so totally forgotten both his -German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to -understand what was said to him, in either of these languages. We found -ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves -would have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther -information relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves -much pleasure from the history of this extraordinary man, which he -probably would have been induced to relate to strangers, who might -perhaps be of some little service to him, but who could have no -inducement to take advantage, from any thing he might say, to do him an -injury. No one here knew the cause of his banishment; but they took it -for granted, that it must have been for something very atrocious; -particularly, as two or three commanders of Kamtschatka have endeavoured -to get him recalled, since the present empress’s reign; but far from -succeeding in this, they have not been even able to get the place of his -banishment changed. He told us that, for twenty years, he had not tasted -bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind whatsoever; but -that, during this period, he had lived among the Kamtschadales, on what -his own activity and toil in the chace had furnished. That afterward he -had a small pension granted; and that since Major Behm came to the -command, his situation had been infinitely mended. The notice that -worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to become -his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example; -besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to -one hundred roubles a-year; which is the common pay of an ensign in all -parts of the empress’s dominions, except in this province, where the pay -of all the officers is double. Major Behm told us, that he had obtained -permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his -residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the -present, on an idea, that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful -to us as an interpreter. - -Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the -rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores, we had lately -received, would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the -direction of the corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we -began to look for our game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm’s -Harbour. It is an inlet on the west side of the bay (which we had named -after that officer, from its being a favourite place of his, and having -been surveyed by himself), and is called by the natives Tareinska. - -In our way toward this harbour, we met the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and -Saint Paul, in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another -Kamtschadale. He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in -the entrance of the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries -that he had gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to -the south-west, we now changed our route, by his advice; and instead of -going up the harbour, directed our course to the northward, toward a -pool of water that lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and -which was a known haunt of the bears. We had scarce landed, when -unfortunately the wind changed to the eastward, and a second time -destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game; for the Kamtschadales -assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet with bears, whilst we -were to the windward; owing to their being possessed of an uncommon -acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them, under such -circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very great -distance. We returned, therefore, to the boat, and passed the night on -the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose; and the next -day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head -of Rakoweena Harbour. - -Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on -foot, and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea side, a -league to the northward of the Light-house Head. From hence, as far as -we could see toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow -border of low level ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with -heath, and produces great abundance of berries, particularly those -called partridge and crow-berries. We were told, we should not fail to -meet with a number of bears, feeding upon these berries; but that the -weather being showery, was unfavourable for us. - -Accordingly, we directed our course along this plain; and though we saw -several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management, -contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed -to spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing, in great numbers, through -the surf into a small river. I could not help observing, how much -inferior our Kamtschadales were at this method of fishing, to the people -at Oonalashka; nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron, -near so good for the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of -the Americans, though pointed only with bone. On inquiring into the -reason of this inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had -lived many years amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales -made use of the same kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed -and barbed with bone, and were not less dexterous in the management of -them than the latter. We could not understand one another sufficiently -for me to learn the cause of this change; probably it was one of the not -unusual effects of a forced and imperfect state of improvement. It fell -out very opportunely, that the water afforded us a little prey; for -besides our ill success in the chase by land, we had also been -disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild fowl, on a supply of -which we had in some measure depended for our subsistence; and on its -failure, began to think that we had been full long absent from -head-quarters. - -Our Kamtschadales now discovered, that the want of success, in not -meeting with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the -unavoidable noise that was the consequence of it. We, therefore, agreed -to separate; Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party; -Captain Gore and the rest of the company, the other. - -Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the -morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit -round the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to -which I belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we -had fished for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the -heavy rains that fell all the morning, we came about three in the -afternoon to some old _balagans_, where a Kamtschadale village had been -formerly situated, without meeting with a single bear during the whole -of a long and tedious walk. It was our first intention to have remained -here all night, in order to have resumed our chace early the next -morning; but the weather clearing, and at the same time a fresh breeze -springing up from a quarter unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin, -whom former sufferings had made very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who -seemed at present more particularly distressed from having emptied his -snuff-box, began to be very importunate with us to return home. It was -some time before the old corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a -great distance from the harbour; and that, on account of the badness of -the way, the night would probably overtake us before we reached the end -of our journey. At length, however, he yielded to Ivaskin’s entreaties, -and conducted us along the side of a number of small lakes, with which -the flat part of this country seems much to abound. These lakes are from -half a mile to two miles in length, and about half a mile broad; the -water is fresh and clear, and they are full of a red-coloured fish, -resembling, both in shape and size, a small salmon; of which a more -particular description will be given hereafter. The banks of these lakes -were covered with the fragments of fish that the bears had half eaten, -and which caused an intolerable stench. We often came upon the spots -which the bears had just left, but were never able even to come within -sight of them. - -It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve -hours upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired, and -overcome with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it, for want of -a supply of snuff; for every step he took, his hand dived mechanically -into his pocket, and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got -into the tent, when the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We -congratulated ourselves that we had not stayed out another day, the -Hospodin’s box was replenished, and we forgot the fatigues and ill -success of our expedition over a good supper. - -I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the -serjeant had undergone corporal punishment, during our absence, by -command of the old _Put-parouchick_. None of our people had been able to -learn what was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have -arisen from some little jealousy subsisting between them on account of -the civility which we had shown to the former. However, having every -reason to believe that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call -for so disgraceful a chastisement, we could not help being both sorry -and much provoked at it, as the terms on which we had lived with him, -and the interest we were known to take in his affairs, made the affront -in some measure personal to ourselves. For it has not yet been -mentioned, that we had consulted with the late worthy commander, Major -Behm, who was also his friend, by what means we might be most likely to -succeed in doing him some service, for the good order he had kept in the -_ostrog_ during our stay, and for his readiness, on all occasions, to -oblige us. The major advised a letter of recommendation to the -governor-general, which Captain Clerke had accordingly given him, and -which, backed with his own representations, he had no doubt would get -the serjeant advanced a step higher in his profession. - -We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject, till the -arrival of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of -language, to enter into any discussion of the business, made it -advisable to come to this determination. However, when the -_Put-parouchick_ paid us his next visit, we could not help testifying -our chagrin, by receiving him very coolly. - -The 22d, being the anniversary of his Majesty’s coronation, twenty-one -guns were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of -was prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner, -the arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable -surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to -partake of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the -next, because, in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand, -that the effects of a severe illness had made him unequal to the -journey. We were glad to find this had been merely an excuse; that, in -fact, he was ashamed of coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great -want of tea, sugar, &c. &c.; and that, therefore, he had deferred his -setting out, in daily expectation of the sloop from Okotsk; but having -no tidings of her, and dreading lest we should sail without his having -paid us a visit, he was determined to set out, though with nothing -better to present to us than apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk. -At the same time he acquainted us, that our not having received the -sixteen head of black cattle, we had desired might be sent down, was -owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei, which had prevented their -setting out. We made the best answer we were able, to so much politeness -and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board the Resolution, he -was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our curiosities were -presented to him; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch and a -fowling-piece. - -The next day, he was entertained on board the Discovery; and on the -25th, he took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be -prevailed on to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told -us, that the sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour -through all the provinces of the governor-general of Jakutsk, might -arrive in the sloop that was daily expected from Okotsk. Before his -departure, and without any interference of ours, he reinstated the -serjeant in the command of this place, having determined to take the -_Put-parouchick_ along with him; at the same time, we understood that he -was highly displeased with him, on account of the punishment that had -been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which there did not appear to be -the slightest grounds. - -Captain Shmaleff’s great readiness to give us every possible proof of -his desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour, for -another of our Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier, -whose house had been, at all times, open to the inferior officers, and -who had done both them, and all the crew, a thousand good offices. The -captain most obligingly complied with our request, and dubbed him (which -was all he wished for) a corporal upon the spot; and ordered him to -thank the English officers for his great promotion. It may not here be -improper to observe, that, in the Russian army, the inferior class of -officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence above the private men, with -which we, in our service, are in a great measure unacquainted. It was no -small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant keep up all the state, and -exact all the respect, from all beneath him, belonging to a -field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are many more -gradations of rank amongst them, than are to be met with in other -countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than -four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages -arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary -effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service, cannot be -questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers -are enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a -reward proportioned to it. - -Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add -but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian -army, though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the -strictest and severest kind; from which even the commissioned officers -are not exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is -imprisonment, and a bread-and-water diet. An ensign, a good friend of -ours at this place, told us, that for having been concerned in a drunken -riot, he was confined in the black-hole for three months, and fed upon -bread and water, which, he said, so shattered his nerves, that he had -never since had spirits for a common convivial meeting. - -I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska river, and, -having bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the -priest of Paratounca. On Sunday the 26th, I attended him to church. The -congregation consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and -three boys, who assisted in singing part of the service, the whole of -which was performed in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is -of wood, and by far the best building either in this town, or in that of -Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It is ornamented with many paintings, -particularly with two pictures of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, presented -by Beering; and which, in the real richness of their drapery, would -carry off the prize from the first of our European performances; for all -the principal parts of it are made of thick plate of solid silver, -fastened to the canvass, and fashioned into the various foldings of the -robes with which the figures were clothed. - -The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under -the direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated -bear-hunter. We arrived, by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger -lakes. The next step was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and -this we were able to do very effectually, among some long grass and -brush-wood, that grew close to the water’s edge. We had not lain long in -ambush, before we had the pleasure to hear the growlings of bears in -different parts round about us; and our expectations were soon gratified -by the sight of one of them in the water, which seemed to be swimming -directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon, at this time, gave a -considerable light; and when the animal had advanced about fifteen -yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the same time. The -beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a noise, which -could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor yelling, but was -a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description. We plainly saw -that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it gained the -bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance. It still -continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the -Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no -farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for -the present. It was at this time past nine o’clock, and the night -becoming overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it -most prudent to return home, and defer the gratification of our -curiosity till morning, when we returned to the spot, and found the bear -dead in the place to which it had been watched. It proved to be a -female, and beyond the common size. - -As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader -a wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it -may not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am -the better able to do since this last expedition. - -When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they -contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their -tracks, to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a -view to concealment, and taking aim at the beast, either as he is -passing by or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are -found in the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, -and among the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The -place of ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the -ground the crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest, -pointing them in the direction they mean to make their shot. This done, -they kneel or lie down, as the circumstances of the cover require, and, -with their bear-spears by their side, wait for their game. These -precautions, which are chiefly taken in order to make sure of their -mark, are, on several accounts, highly expedient. For, in the first -place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka, that the price of a bear -will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to load a musket four or -five times; and what is more material, if the bear be not rendered -incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences are often -fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the noise and -smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is -impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than -twelve or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at: so that, if he -does not fall, they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive -him upon their spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving -him a mortal stab, as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust -(which, by the extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they -are often enabled to do), and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, -the conflict becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of -the party alone suffice to pay the forfeit. - -There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation as -it may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous: in the spring, -when the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is -universally asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and -especially if the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be -broken up in the lake at that time, by which means they are deprived of -their ordinary and expected food. Under these circumstances they soon -become exceedingly famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They -will pursue the natives by the scent; and, as they now prowl about out -of their usual tracks, frequently come upon them unawares; and when this -happens, as the Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting -flying, nor even at an animal running, or in any way except with their -piece on a rest, the bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their -hunger. The other season in which it is dangerous to come in their way, -is at the time of their copulation, which is generally about this time -of the year. - -An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals hath -been already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature, -and not less affecting; many of which were related to me. The -Kamtschadales derive great advantage in hunting, from this circumstance. -They never venture to fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near: -for, if the cub drop, she becomes enraged to a degree little short of -madness; and if she get sight of the enemy, will only quit her revenge -with her life. On the contrary, if the dam be shot, the cubs will not -leave her side, even after she has been dead a long time; but continue -about her, showing, by a variety of affecting actions and gestures, -marks of the deepest affliction, and thus become an easy prey to the -hunters. - -Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be -credited, less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their -natural affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I -shall content myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives -speak of as a well-known fact; and that is, the stratagem they have -recourse to, in order to catch the bareins, which are considerably too -swift of foot for them. These animals keep together in large herds; they -frequent mostly the low grounds, and love to browse at the feet of rocks -and precipices. The bear hunts them by scent till he come in sight, when -he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing himself amongst -the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over -them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He then begins to push down, with -his paws, pieces of the rock amongst the herd below. This manœuvre is -not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he find he has maimed one -of the flock, upon which a course immediately ensues, that proves -successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the barein has received. - -I cannot conclude this digression without observing, that the -Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears -for what little advancement they have hitherto made, either in the -sciences or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their -skill both in physic and surgery; that by remarking with what herbs -these animals rub the wounds they have received, and what they have -recourse to when sick and languid, they have become acquainted with most -of the simples in use among them, either in the way of internal -medicine, or external application. But what will appear somewhat more -singular is, they acknowledge the bears likewise for their -dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one’s senses puts this out of -dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an exact counterpart -of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal, through its -various functions; and this is the foundation and ground-work of all -their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon. - -I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my -excursion, as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more -of the country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the -Kamtschadales, when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie -under in the company of the Russians. - -No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain -Gore went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon, -prepared by Mr. Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth -Captain Clerke’s age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which -he was engaged at the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree -under which he was buried a board, with an inscription upon it to the -same effect. - -Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships -out of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were -prevented from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the -whole day of the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped -out of the harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in -seven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the _ostrog_. - -The day before we went out of the harbour, the cattle arrived from -Verchnei; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this -capital and much-longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore -came to a determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this -time idly employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships, -thereby received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some -molasses, and the use of the Resolution’s copper, I was enabled to brew -a fortnight’s beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten -puncheons of strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more -acceptable, as our last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in -reserve for cases of necessity, was now serving out. - -The 3d was the name-day of the empress, and we could want no inducement -to show it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the -priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an -entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the -garrison, for the two _Toions_ of Paratounca, and Saint Peter and Saint -Paul, and for the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The -rest of the natives, of every description, were invited to partake with -the ships’ companies, who had a pound of good fat beef served out to -each man; and what remained of our spirits was made into grog, and -divided amongst them. A salute of twenty-one guns was fired at the usual -hour; and the whole was conducted (considering the part of her dominions -it was in,) in a manner not unworthy so renowned and magnificent an -empress. - -On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar, -and tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and -was accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the -sloop from Okotsk had arrived during his absence, and that Madame -Shmaleff, who was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in -dispatching a courier, with the few presents, of which our acceptance -was requested. - -The appearance of foul weather, on the 6th and 7th, prevented our -unmooring; but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth -of the bay, and hoisted in all the boats; when the wind, veering to the -southward, stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor -in ten fathoms; the _ostrog_ bearing due north, half a league distant. - -The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the -forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the -afternoon, we again unmoored; but whilst we were, with great difficulty, -weighing our last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had -left the boat, which had just returned from the village, and that he was -last seen with a Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had -been much attached, and who had often been observed persuading him to -stay behind. Though this man had been long useless to us, from a -swelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, yet this made me the more -unwilling he should be left behind, to become a miserable burthen, both -to the Russians and himself. I therefore got the serjeant to send -parties of soldiers in different directions, in search of him, whilst -some of our sailors went to a well-known haunt of his in the -neighbourhood, where they found him with his woman. On the return of -this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and followed the Resolution -out of the bay. - -Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall -conclude this chapter with a particular description of Awatska bay, and -the coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it -constitutes perhaps the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet -been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the -world, capable of admitting ships of any considerable burthen. The term -bay, indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so -well sheltered as Awatska; but then it must be observed, that from the -loose, undistinguishing manner, in which navigators have denominated -certain situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays, -roads, sounds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate ideas -affixed to these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular -name, for one that may appear more proper. - -The entrance into this bay, is in 52° 51ʹ N. latitude, and 158° 48ʹ E. -longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by -Cheepoonskoi Noss, to the north, and Cape Gavareea to the south. The -former of these head-lands bears from the latter north-east by north, -three quarters east, and is distant thirty-two leagues. The coast, from -Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska Bay, takes a direction nearly -north, and is eleven leagues in extent. It consists of a chain of high, -ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently lying off them. This -coast, at a distance, presents in many parts, an appearance of bays or -inlets, but on a nearer approach, the head-lands were found connected by -low ground. - -Cheepoonskoi Noss bears from the entrance of the bay, east north-east a -quarter east, and is seventeen leagues distant. On this side, the shore -is low and flat, with hills rising behind, to a considerable height. In -the latitude of Cape Gavareea, there is an error of twenty-one miles in -the Russian charts; its true latitude being 52° 21ʹ. - -This striking difference of the land on each side of Awatska Bay, with -their different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it, in coming -from the southward: and, in approaching it from the northward, -Cheepoonskoi Noss will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high -projecting head-land, with a considerable extent of level ground, lower -than the Noss, uniting it to the continent. It presents the same -appearance, whether viewed from the north or south, and will warn the -mariner not to be deceived, in imagining Awatska Bay to lie in the -bight, which the coast forms to the northward of this Noss, and which -might be the case, from the striking resemblance there is between a -conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of Awatska -Bay. - -I have been thus particular, in giving a minute description of this -coast, from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been -furnished with a tolerable account of the form of the coast, on each -side of Awatska Bay, we should on our first arrival upon it, have got -safely within the bay two days before we did, and thereby have avoided -part of the stormy weather, which came on when we were plying off the -mouth of the harbour. Besides, from the prevalence of fogs in these -seas, it must frequently happen, that an observation for ascertaining -the latitude cannot be got; to which we may add, that the deceptive -appearances land makes, when covered with snow, and when viewed through -an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail here, during the -greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a variety of -discriminating objects the more necessary. - -Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the -mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point -out the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to -the south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest the bay, -is shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does -not appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are -three very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the -highest; the next is the _volcano_ mountain, which may be known from the -smoke that issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills -connected with it, and stretching to the northward: these two are -somewhat peaked. The third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be -more properly called a cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight -several flat tops. - -When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a -perpendicular head-land, with a light-house erected upon it, will point -out the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward -of this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the -distance of two or three miles; and which will show themselves, if there -be but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance -lies a small round island, very distinguishable from being principally -composed of high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable, -as being much larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest. - -It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of -the bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can -give the mariner so perfect an idea of it, as the annexed plan. From -this it will appear, that the entrance is at first near three miles -wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles -long, in a north north-west direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason -of twenty-five miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tarcinska -to the west, of Rakoweena to the east, and the small one of Saint Peter -and Saint Paul, where we lay, to the north. - -Tarcinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; -it stretches to the east-south-east, and is separated from the sea, at -the bottom, by a narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is -perfectly free from rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven -fathoms’ water, as far as our survey extended; for we were not able to -get to the bottom of the harbour on account of the ice. - -The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other -two, if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of -the channel, which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in, -unless there be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in -width, and three miles long, running at first in a south-east, and -afterward in an easterly direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three -fathoms. - -Saint Peter and Saint Paul’s is one of the most convenient little -harbours I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships, -moored head and stern, and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. -The south side is formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on -which the _ostrog_ is built, and whose point may almost be touched by -ships going in, having three fathoms’ water close in with it. In the -mid-channel, which is no more than two hundred and seventy-eight feet -across, there are six fathoms and a half; the deepest water within is -seven fathoms; and in every part over a muddy bottom. We found some -inconvenience from the toughness of the ground, which constantly broke -the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble in getting up the -anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour. - -The plan will likewise point out the shoal that is to be avoided, lying -off the eastern harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance, -stretching from the south-west shore, and over which there is only three -fathoms’ water. In order to steer clear of the latter, a small island, -or perhaps it may rather be called a large detached rock, lying on the -west shore of the entrance, is to be shut in with the land to the south -of it; and, to steer clear of the former, the Three Needle Rocks, which -lie on the east shore of the entrance near the light-house head, are to -be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff heads) that rise to the -northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable on the east -side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north head-land -of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past. - -In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and -approaching the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern -shore, in order to avoid a spit, which runs from the head-land to the -south-west of the town. - -Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical -observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader, -that the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact -copy of that invented by Mr. Harrison, and executed by Mr. Kendal, -stopped on the 27th of April, a few days before we first came into -Awatska Bay. It had been always kept with the most scrupulous care -during the voyage, having never been trusted for a moment into any other -hands than those of Captain Cook and mine. No accident could, therefore, -have happened to it, to which we could attribute its stopping; nor could -it have arisen from the effects of intense cold, as the thermometer was -very little below the freezing point. As soon as the discovery was made, -I consulted with Captain Clerke what course it was best to pursue; -whether to let it remain as it was, entirely useless to us, for the -purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it was sure of being -examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected by a seaman on -board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a watchmaker in -London; and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business, from his -success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had been out. -The advantages we had derived from its accuracy made us extremely -unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of the -voyage; and that object appeared to us of much greater importance than -the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that could -be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its -mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it -should be remembered, that the watch had already had a sufficient trial, -both in the former voyage, and during the three years we had now had it -on board, to ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the -opportunity of the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of -opening the watch, which was done in the captain’s cabin, and in our -presence. The watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being -able to set it agoing, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, -and cleaned both the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest -of the work rather dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between -two teeth of the wheel that carries the second-hand, found a piece of -dirt, which he imagined to be the principal cause of its stopping. -Having afterward put the work together, and oiled it as sparingly as -possible, the watch appeared to go free and well. - -Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the -time-keeper was left in the care of Mr. Bayly, to compare it with his -watch and clock, in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it -had gone for some days with tolerable regularity, losing only from -fifteen to seventeen seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It -was again opened, and the cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to -the man having put some part of the work badly together when he first -opened it. Being again adjusted, it was found to gain above a minute -a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the regulator and balance-spring, he -broke the latter. He afterward made a new spring; but the watch now went -so irregularly, that we made no farther use of it. The poor fellow was -not less chagrined than we were, at our bad success; which, however, I -am convinced was more owing to the miserable tools he was obliged to -work with, and the stiffness his hands had contracted from his ordinary -occupation, than to his want of skill. - -For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its -rate of going, I have added the following table. - -The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of -the places where, its rate was observed. The third column contains the -daily error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has -the longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is, -calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate -from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of -ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, -the fifth column has the longitude, according to its last rate, -calculated from the true longitude of the place last departed from. The -sixth is the true longitude of the place, deduced from astronomical -observations made by ourselves, and compared with those made by others, -whenever such could be obtained. The seventh column shows the difference -between the fourth column and the sixth in space; and the eighth the -same difference in time. The ninth shows the number of months and days -in which the error, thus determined, had been accumulating. The -difference between the fifth and sixth columns is found in the tenth, -and shows the error of the time-keeper, according to its rate last found -in space; and the eleventh, the same error in time. The twelfth contains -the time elapsed in sailing from the place where the rate was last -taken, to the place whose longitude is last determined. The thirteenth -and fourteenth contain the state of the air at the time of each -observation. - -As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some -difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following -instances will more clearly explain it. - -Thus, on the 24th October, 1776 (first column), at the Cape of Good Hope -(second column), we found the daily error in the rate of its going, to -be 2ʺ,26 (third column). The longitude of that place calculated on a -supposition, that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same -from the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily -error of 1ʺ,21, is found to be 18° 26ʹ 30ʺ E. (fourth column). And as -its rate at Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the -longitude thus found is the same (fifth column). The true longitude of -the place is 18° 23ʹ 15ʺ (sixth column). From whence it appears, that, -in our run from Greenwich to the Cape, the watch would have led us into -an error only of 3ʹ 15ʺ (seventh column), or three miles one quarter; or -had varied 13ʺ of time (eighth column), in four months twenty-three days -(ninth column), the period between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival -at the Cape. As the Greenwich is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh, -and twelfth columns will be the same with the seventh and ninth. - -But, on the 22d of February, 1777 (first column), at Queen Charlotte’s -Sound, New Zealand (second column), the daily error of its rate was -found to be 2ʺ,91 (third column). The longitude of this place, according -to the Greenwich rate, is 175° 25ʹ (fourth column). But having found, at -the Cape, that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1ʹ,21 to -2ʹ,26, the longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174° 54ʹ -23ʺ (fifth column). The true longitude of the place being 174° 23ʹ 31ʺ -(sixth column); it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to New -Zealand, the error would have been only 1° 1ʹ 29ʺ (seventh column), or -sixty-one miles and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of -correcting its daily error; or, in other words, that the watch had -varied 4ʹ 6ʺ (eighth column), in eight months eleven days (ninth -column). But the longitude, as given by its new rate, leaves an error of -only 30ʹ 54ʺ (tenth column), near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2ʹ 3ʺ,6 -(eleventh column), which has been accumulating during our run from the -Cape to New Zealand, or in three months, 28° (twelfth column). The -thirteenth and fourteenth columns require no explanation. - - - TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr. Kendal’s Watch, on board the - Resolution. - - +---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------------+----------+ - | I. | II. | III. | IV. | V. | VI. | VII. | VIII. | IX. | X. | XI. | XII. | XIII. | XIV. | - +---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------------+----------+ - | TIME. | PLACE. | Error |Longitude | Longitude| True | Accumulated Error |Length| Error by new |Length| Thermometer.|Barometer.| - | | | of | by | by | Longitude| By Greenwich Rate. | of | Rate. | of | | | - | | | daily |Greenwich | new Rate.| +---------+----------+ Time.+---------+---------+ Time |-------+-----+ | - | | | Rate. | Rate. | | | in | in | | in | in | | great.|least| | - | | | | | | | Space. | Time. | | Space. | Time. | | Height | | - +---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+ - | | | ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | ° ʹ ʺ | H. ʹ ʺ | M. D.| ° ʹ ʺ | H. ʹ ʺ | M. D.| | | | - | 1776. | +-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+ - |June 11. | Greenwich. | -1,21 | 0 0 0E. | 0 0 0E. | 0 0 0E.| | | | | | | | | | - |Oct. 24. | Cape of Good} | -2,26 | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15| +0 3 15| 0 0 13,0| 4 23| +0 3 15 | 0 0 13,0| 4 23| 84 | 63 | 30, 0 | - | | Hope } | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 1777. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |Feb. 22. | Queen Charlotte’s}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | | Sound, }| -2,91 | 175 25 0 | 174 54 25| 174 23 31| 1 1 29| 0 4 5,3| 9 4| +0 30 54| 0 2 3,6| 4 9| 73 | 53 | 30, 0 | - | | New Zealand }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |May 7. | Annamooka | +0,52 | 186 13 26| 186 13 15| 185 11 18| 1 2 8| 0 4 8,5| 11 22| +1 1 57| 0 4 7,8| 2 18| 83 | 74 | 30, 1 | - |June 7. | Annamooka | -0,54 | 186 8 28| 186 12 43| 185 11 18| 0 57 10| 0 3 48,6| 12 25| +1 1 25| 0 4 5,6| 1 3| 79 | 73 | 30, 15 | - |July 1. | Tongataboo | -1,78 | 185 48 50| 184 53 0 | 184 55 18| 0 53 32| 0 3 34,1| 13 21| -0 2 18| 0 0 9,2| 0 24| 85 | 69 | 30, 15 | - |Sept. 1. |Otaheite | -1,54 | 211 41 26| 210 39 8 | 210 22 28| 1 18 58| 0 5 15,8| 15 27| +0 16 40| 0 1 6,6| 2 6| 90 | 70 | 30, 1 | - |Oct. 17. | Huaheine | -2,30 | 210 14 52| 208 50 24| 208 52 24| 1 22 28| 0 5 29,8| 17 17| -0 2 0| 0 0 8,0| 1 18| 90-1/2| 72 | 29, 9 | - |Nov. 7. | Ulietea | -1,52 | 209 42 54| 208 25 22| 208 25 22| 1 17 32| 0 5 10,1| 18 10| 0 0 0| 0 0 0,0| 0 21| 92 | 70 | 29, 7 | - | 1778. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |April 16.| Nootka | -7, 0 | 235 32 45| 233 56 0 | 233 17 8 | 2 15 27| 0 9 1,8| 24 2| +0 28 42| 0 2 34,8| 5 20| 65 | 41 | 30, 0 | - |Oct. 14. | Samganoodha | -8, 8 | 197 44 15| 193 12 35| 193 31 20| 4 12 55| 0 16 51,6| 30 15| -0 18 45| 0 1 15,0| 6 13| 57 | 36 | 30, 15 | - | 1779. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |Feb. 2. | Owhyhee | -9, 6 | 214 7 35 | 203 37 22| 204 0 0| 10 7 35| 0 40 30,3| 34 14| -0 22 38| 0 1 30,5| 3 27| 88 | 70 | 29, 8 | - |May 1. | Saint Peter and} | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | | Saint Paul, } | T. K. | 173 36 0 | 159 20 0| 158 43 16| 14 52 44| 0 59 30,9| 37 18| -0 36 44| 0 2 16,9| 3 4| | | | - | | Kamtschatka } | stopt.| | | | | | | | | | | | | - +---------+-------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+---------+----------+------+---------+---------+------+-------+-----+----------+ - -From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that, for near two years, -it altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore, that its error, -according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of -correcting it, would have amounted only to 2-1/4°. That afterward, at -King George’s Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; -of course, the longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming -considerably erroneous. About this time, it should be remarked, the -thermometer was varying from 65° to 41°. The greatest alteration we ever -observed in the watch was, during the three weeks we were cruizing to -the north; in which interval, it gave the longitude of the East Cape -with a difference of twenty-eight miles. I have marked the longitude of -Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given by the time-keeper, notwithstanding -it stopped a few days before we arrived there; this I was enabled to do, -from comparing the longitude it gave the day before it stopped, with -that given by Mr. Bayley’s watch, and allowing for the error of the -latter. - -The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from -its furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at -sea, as may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were -enabled, by the same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar -observations, which they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same -time, by reducing a number of those observations to one time, obtain -results approaching still nearer the truth. In surveying coasts, and -ascertaining the true position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the -utmost degree of practical exactness. On the other hand, it is to be -observed, that lunar observations, in their turn, are absolutely -necessary, in order to reap the greatest possible advantages from the -time-keeper; since, by ascertaining the true longitude of places, they -discover the error of its rate. The original observations, that were -made in the course of this voyage, have been published by order of the -board of longitude; and to those I must refer the reader, for his -further information on this subject. - - -_N. B._—The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of -Saint Peter and Saint Paul. - - Latitude deduced from meridian zenith distances of - the sun, and of five stars to the south, and - five to the north of the zenith 53° 0ʹ 38ʺ north. - - Longitude deduced from one hundred and forty-six - sets of lunar observations 158° 43ʹ 16ʺ east. - - Longitude by time-keeper, according to its - Greenwich rate 173° 36ʹ 0ʺ - - Longitude by time-keeper, according to its rate - found at Owhyhee 159° 20ʹ 0ʺ - - Variation of the compass, by azimuths taken with - three compasses, made by Knight, Gregory, and - Martin 6° 18ʹ 40ʺ east. - - Dip of the north pole of the magnetic needle, - being a mean of the observations taken in June - and September 63° 5ʹ 0ʺ - -It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six -minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The -tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay, -the flood came from the south, and the time of high-water was near two -hours sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF KAMTSCHATKA.—GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION.—RIVERS.—SOIL.— - CLIMATE.—VOLCANOES.—HOT SPRINGS.—PRODUCTIONS.—VEGETABLES.—ANIMALS.— - BIRDS.—FISH. - - -Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of -Asia, running nearly north and south, from 52° to 61° north latitude; -the longitude of its southern extremity being 156° 45ʹ E. The isthmus, -which joins it to the continent on the north, lies between the gulf of -Olutorsk and the gulf of Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape -Lopatka, a word signifying the blade-bone of a man, and is so called -from its supposed resemblance to it. The shape of the whole peninsula is -not unlike that of a shoe, widening from the toe (which we may suppose -to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle, and narrowing again toward the -heel, the neck of land above-mentioned connecting it with the continent. -Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of -Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred and thirty-six miles, -from whence it narrows very gradually toward each extremity. - -It is bounded on the north by the country of the Koriacks; to the south -and east, by the north Pacific Ocean; and to the west, by the sea of -Okotsk. A chain of high mountains stretches the whole length of the -country, from north to south, dividing it nearly into two equal parts, -from whence a great number of rivers take their rise, and empty -themselves, on each side, into the Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotsk. - -There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the -Bolchoireka, or Great River, so called from _bolchoia_, which signifies -great, and _reka_, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The -first empties itself into the sea of Okotsk, and is navigable for the -Russian galliots upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine -miles of Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka -and the Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The -Bistraia itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from -the same mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct -contrary course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting -their goods by water, in small canoes, almost across the whole -peninsula. The river Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near -three hundred miles from south to north, winds round to the eastward, in -which direction it empties itself into the ocean, a little to the -southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the mouth of the Kamtschatka, to -the north-west, lies the great lake called Nerpitsch, from _nerpi_, a -Kamtschadale word signifying a seal, with which this lake abounds. About -twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a -fort called Nishnei Kamtschatska _ostrog_, where the Russians have built -an hospital and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the -principal mart in this country. - -The river Awatska arises from the mountains situated between the -Bolchoireka and the Bistraia, and running, from north-west to -south-east, a course of one hundred miles, falls into the bay of -Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of considerable size, rising -amidst some very high mountains, which lie under the same parallel with -Kamtschatkoi Noss, and, running in an even course from south-east to -north-west, falls into the sea of Okotsk. All the other rivers of this -peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to deserve -a particular enumeration. - -If I may judge of the soil from what I saw of its vegetable productions, -I should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither -in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my -journey to Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I -ever meet with the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in -England is called a good green turf, or that seemed as if it could be -turned to any advantage, either in the way of pasturage, or other mode -of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered -with stunted trees, having a bottom of moss, mixed with low weak heath. -The whole bore a more striking resemblance to Newfoundland than to any -other part of the world I had ever seen. - -It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four -stacks of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, -that many parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river -Kamtschatka and the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and -strength, which they cut twice in the summer and that the hay is of a -succulent quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of -cattle. Indeed it should appear, from the size and fatness of the -thirty-six head that were sent down to us from the Verchnei _ostrog_, -and which we were told were bred and fattened in the neighbourhood, that -they must have had the advantage of both good pastures and meadows. For -it is worth our notice, that the first supply we received, consisting of -twenty, came to us just at the close of the winter, and before the snow -was off the ground, and therefore probably had tasted nothing but hay -for the seven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by -Krascheninicoff, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility -to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka; and that to the north -and south it is much inferior, both in point of soil and climate. He -relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of -oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river, which have -generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging to the -convent of Jakutsk, who had settled in that part of the country, had -sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he -has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source -of the Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality -of countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior -fertility of the country here spoken of may, in a great measure, be -accounted for, from its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by -much the widest, and consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each -side. The moist chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail -almost perpetually along the coast, must necessarily render the parts -adjacent very unfit for all the purposes of agriculture. - -It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in -due proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is -probably the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the -beginning of May, 1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, -from six to eight feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from -the north-east. On the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at -32°; and the same day, some of our men were sent on shore to try to cut -wood; but the snow was still so deep on the ground, as to render all -their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in -this necessary business, with all the efforts of a very stout party, -till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance gradually. The -sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow; and by the -beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the -15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer had -never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04ʹ. The winds -blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the -south-east was more prevalent than any other. - -On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all -other sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of -perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the -weather was very changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds, at the -beginning of the month, were for the most part easterly, after which -they got round to the west. The greatest height of the thermometer was -65°, the lowest 40°. The barometer’s greatest height 30°, its lowest 29° -3ʹ. So that upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate -degree of temperature prevailed. But at the beginning of October, the -tops of the hills were again covered with new-fallen snow, the wind -continuing westerly. - -In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken -into the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September may -be properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as -an autumnal month; from thence till the middle of June it is perfect -winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between -Bolcheretsk and Awatska, over the snow in sledges. - -It is said that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river -Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate than in many parts of -Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably -owing to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in -those parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility -of the ground alone that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable -temperature of their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season -sometimes prevents their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for -their winter’s provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to -breed in them, which not unfrequently destroy the greatest part. - -I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our -stay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the _volcano_; and, from -the account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with -storms of this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general -severity of the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and -snow that season brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the -subterraneous habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring -to, for warmth and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and -inclemency of the winter of 1779 was such, that, for several weeks, all -intercourse between the inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one -being afraid to stir, even from one house to another, for fear of being -frost-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in so low a -latitude, may be accounted for, from its being situated to the east of -an immense uncultivated tract of country, and from the prevalence of the -westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and cold a continent. The -extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds, is attributed to -the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and the general -volcanic disposition of the country. - -This peninsula abounds in _volcanos_, of which only three have, for some -past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is -situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others -not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by -Krascheninicoff. - -The _volcano_ of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the -river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of -which the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminates -in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from -it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the -neighbouring mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which -spread over and darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a -shower of cinders, that covered the ground to the distance of thirty -miles. M. Krascheninicoff, who was at this time on a journey from -Bolchoireka to the Kamtschatka _ostrog_, at no great distance from the -mountain, relates, that the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound -in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or -hurricane, till three shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute’s -interval each, convinced him of its real cause; but that he was hindered -from approaching nearer the mountain by the cinders that fell, and -prevented him from proceeding on his journey. - -The third _volcano_ is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which -is mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never -ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions of the -most violent and dreadful kind, some of which were much talked of, and -seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales. - -The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. -The only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natchikin -_ostrog_, and hath been already described. Krascheninicoff makes mention -of several others, and also of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at -the bottom of which the water is seen to boil as in a caldron, with -prodigious force and impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise -issues out of them, and so thick a vapour, that a man cannot be seen -through it. - -Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, -the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they stain their leather), -many species of the willow, but all small; and two sorts of dwarfish -pines or cedars.[27] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along -the ground, and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort -we made our essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. -The other grows on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small -nut or apple. We were told by the old _Toion_ at Saint Peter and Saint -Paul, that Beering, during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught -them the use of the decoction of these pines, and that it had proved a -most excellent remedy for the scurvy; but, whether from the great -scarcity of sugar, or from what other cause we could not learn, we were -sorry to find that it was no longer in use amongst them. - -The birch was by far the most common tree we saw, and of this we -remarked three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in -the texture and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This -tree is applied to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The -liquor, which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink -without mixture, or any preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of -observing, upon our journey to Bolcheretsk, and found it ourselves -pleasant and refreshing, but somewhat purgative. The bark they convert -into vessels, for almost all their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it -is of the wood of this tree the sledges and canoes are also made.[28] - -The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay, -were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into -the country for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the -principal timbers of their _balagans_, and the like uses. - -Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninicoff relates, that the -larch grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that -fall into it, but no where else, and that there are firs in the -neighbourhood of the river Berezowa; that there is likewise the -service-tree (_padus foliis annuis_); and two species of the -white-thorn, one bearing a red, the other a black berry. - -Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and -raspberry-bushes, the country produces great abundance, together with a -variety of berries; blue-berries of two sorts, round and oval; -partridge-berries, cran-berries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These -the natives gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into -a thick jam, without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their -winter provisions, and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish, -of which kind of food they are unquestionably excellent correctives. -They likewise eat them by themselves, in puddings and various other -ways, and make decoctions of them for their ordinary liquor. - -We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great -quantities, such as wild celery, _angelica_, chervil, garlic, and -onions. Upon some few patches of ground in the valleys, we found -excellent turnips, and turnip-radishes. The garden cultivation went no -farther; yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy -sorts of vegetables (such at least as push their roots downward,) like -carrots, parsnips, and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive -tolerably well. Major Behm told me, that some other sorts of kitchen -vegetables had been tried, but did not answer; that neither any of the -cabbage or lettuce kind would ever head; and that peas and beans shot up -very vigorous stalks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He -likewise told me, that in the experiments made by himself at -Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of farinaceous grain, there generally -came up a very high and strong blade, which eared, but that the ears -never yielded flour. - -This short account of the vegetable productions reaches to such parts of -the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the -Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and -climate is by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is -attended to, and probably with great success, as appears from our having -received at the same time, with a second drove of cattle from Verchnei, -a present of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some -other garden-stuff, of which I do not recollect the kinds. - -There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a -particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives -the _sarana_; and by botanists, _Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro -rubente_.[29] The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and -grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the -bottom, and green higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves -of an oval figure, the lower consisting of three leaves, the uppermost -of four, in the form of a cross: from the top of the stalk grows a -single flower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling -the flower of the narcissus, only much smaller: from the centre of the -flower rises a style of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which -is surrounded by six white _stamina_, whose extremities are yellow. The -root is of the bulbous kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, -being much of the same size, but rounder, and having, like that, four or -five cloves hanging together. The plant grows wild, and in considerable -abundance: the women are employed in collecting the roots at the -beginning of August, which are afterward dried in the sun, and then laid -up for use. On our second arrival, this harvest was just over, and had -fallen much short of its usual produce. It is a common observation -amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of Providence never fails -them; for that such seasons as are most hurtful to the _sarana_, are -always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the contrary, a bad -fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the _sarana_ -harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in embers, -it supplies the place of bread, better than any thing the country -affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an -excellent substitute for flour and meal of every sort, and in this form -is mixed in all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is -esteemed extremely nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be -eaten every day without cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat -them as potatoes, either alone or with our meat, and found them very -wholesome and pleasant. It has been already mentioned, that this useful -plant grows also at Oonalashka, where the roots of it are used, and -constitute a considerable part of their food, in like manner as in -Kamtschatka. - -The other plant alluded to is called the _sweet grass_; the botanical -description is, _Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis, -intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus_. Hort. Upsal. 65. The -time I took particular notice of it was in May, when it was about a foot -and a half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with -a white down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar-frost -hanging upon it, and might be rubbed off: it tasted as sweet as sugar, -but was hot and pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or -four joints, from each of which arise large leaves, and, when at its -full growth, is six feet high. - -This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of -the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the -country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of -distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and -afterward distilled, is as follows: having cut such stalks as have -leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal stem, by the time -the plant has attained its full growth, having become too dry for their -purpose), and scraped off with shells the downy substance on their -surface, they are laid in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and -smell. On growing dry again, they put them into sacks made of matting; -where, after remaining a few days, they are gradually covered with a -sweet saccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From -thirty-six pounds of the plant, in this state, they obtain no more than -a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whose province it is to -collect and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands -with gloves whilst they are scraping the stalks, the rind they remove -being of so acrid a quality, as to blister and even ulcerate whatever it -touches. - -The _spirit_ is drawn from the plant in this state by the following -process. After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its -fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the -_gimolost_[30], or of the _golubitsa_[31], being careful to close up -well the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the -fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a -considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained. -After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and -make a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs -into a copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The -liquor, thus obtained, is of the strength of brandy; and is called by -the natives _raka_. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield -generally one _vedro_ (twenty-five pints) of _raka_. - -Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is -exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and -terrible nervous effects. - -Besides these, Krascheninicoff mentions a variety of other plants, from -whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being -mixed with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the -_kipri_[32], with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by -boiling this plant and the _sweet herb_ together, in the proportion of -one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary -way, is obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are -used instead of tea; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their -dishes; the _morkovai_[33] which is very like _angelica_; the -_kotkorica_[34], the root of which they eat indifferently, green or -dried; the _ikoum_[35]; the _utchichlei_[36], which is much eaten with -fish; with many others. - -It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with -fire-arms), poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root -of the _zgate_[37]; and that wounds inflicted by them are equally -destructive to land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to -use the same drug for this purpose at present. - -I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an -account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the -materials of all their manufactures. The first is the _triticum radice -perenni spiculis binis lanuginosis_[38], which grows in abundance along -the coast. Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of -matting, which they use not only for their floors, but for sacks, -bed-clothes, curtains, and a variety of other domestic purposes. Of the -same materials, they also make very neat little bags and baskets, of -different forms, and for various uses. - -The plant called _bolotnaia_, which grows in the marshes, and resembles -_cyperoides_, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a -comb made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen -and woollen clothes, they swath their new-born infants, and use it for a -covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a -kind of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to -various parts of their clothing. - -There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it -contributes more effectually to their subsistence than all the rest put -together, must not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle; which, -as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of -which are made their fishing-nets; and without which they could not -possibly subsist. For this purpose they cut it down in August, and, -after hanging it up in bundles in the shade, under their _balagans_, the -remainder of the summer, treat it like hemp. They then spin it into -thread with their fingers, and twist it round a spindle; after which -they twine several threads together, according to the different purposes -for which it may be designed. - -Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would -admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the -comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in -the number of wild animals it produces; and no labour can ever be turned -to so good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The -animals, therefore, which supply these, come next to be considered: and -these are, the common fox; the stoat or _ermine_; the _zibeline_ or -sable; the _isatis_ or arctic fox; the varying hare; the mountain rat or -earless marmot; the weasel; the glutton or _wolverene_; the _argali_ or -wild sheep; rein-deer, bears, wolves, dogs. - -The fox[39] is the most general object of the chace; and they are found -in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same -in species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are -more bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped -with dark-coloured bars; others have the belly black, and the rest of -the body of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some -black, others of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white; but -these last are very scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and -of a quality much superior to those either of Siberia or America. A -variety of artifices are made use of by the hunters to catch this -animal, which, in all climates, seems to preserve the same character of -craftiness and cunning. Traps of different sorts, some calculated to -fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head, -are amongst the most common; to which may be added, several ingenious -contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned baits are likewise in -use; and the _nux vomica_ is the drug principally employed for this -purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which they became -acquainted with fire arms, they also carried bows and arrows to the -chace. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided with -a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of -it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to -acknowledge. - -The sables[40] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than -those of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of -so good a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the -Vitime[41], a circumstance which depreciates their value much more than -their superiority in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil -and Ouka are counted the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these -sometimes sell for thirty roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are -those of the southern extremity. The _apparatus_ of the sable hunters -consist of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a -few bricks: with the first they shoot them when they see them on the -trees; the net is to surround the hollow trees in which, when pursued, -they take refuge; and the bricks are heated and put into the cavities, -in order to smoke them out. - -I must refer the reader for an account of the _isatis_[42] or arctic -fox, to Mr. Pennant’s Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal -or the skin, which I understand they set no value upon. The varying -hare[43] is also neglected on the same account. They are in great -abundance; and, as is always the case with this species, turn quite -white during the winter. Our shooting parties saw several of this colour -the beginning of May, but found them so shy, that they were not able to -get within gun-shot. - -The mountain-rat or earless marmot[44], is a beautiful little animal, -considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots, -berries, the cedar apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, -and holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued -by the Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining -colour, forming like the plumage of some birds, various colours when -viewed in different lights. - -The stoat or _ermine_[45] is here held in no estimation, and, -consequently never engages the attention of the hunters, because, as I -have heard, its fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little -animals running about; and we bought several of their skins, which were -of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common -weasel[46] is also neglected, and for the same reason. - -On the contrary, the skin of the glutton or _wolverene_[47], is here in -the highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as -most richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. -The women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and -considered as an extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a -superstitious opinion that the angels are clad with the skins of those -animals. It is said, that this creature is easily tamed, and taught a -number of pleasant tricks.[48] - -Having already had occasion to speak as fully as my own knowledge -enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only -here observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they -are generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time -they are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their -principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that -they are seldom visible in the winter months.[49] - -Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm -mattrasses, and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and -gloves, and good collars for the dogs’ harness. Their flesh, and -particularly the fat, is considered as great delicacies. - -The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl -about, as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey. - -There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the -peninsula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat -singular, that this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the -purposes of carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to -the north and the eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient -for all the demands of the natives in their present state; and the breed -of Russian horses will, probably, increase with the future necessities -of the country. But when it is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a -great measure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing up any -other domestic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary that they -should not have adopted the services of an animal so much more gentle as -well as powerful. - -The _argali_, or wild mountain sheep[50], an animal, I believe, unknown -in Europe (except in Corsica and Sardinia), is here in great plenty. Its -skin is like the deer’s, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes -more of the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, -when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in -running, it rests upon its back. These creatures are exceedingly nimble -and swift, haunt only the most craggy and mountainous parts, and make -their way among the steepest rocks with an agility that is astonishing. -The natives work their horns into spoons and small cups and platters; -and have frequently one of a smaller size hanging to a belt, which -serves them to drink out of in their hunting expeditions. This animal is -gregarious. I frequently tasted the flesh of them, and thought it had a -very sweet and delicate flavour; but never had an opportunity of seeing -one alive. I must, therefore, refer the reader for a particular -description of this beautiful animal (for such it is said to be), to the -Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab. xiii. - -I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and -mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they -are a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a -variety of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream -colour. Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to -provide for themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their -respective homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food in the winter -consists entirely of the head, entrails, and back bones of salmon, which -are put aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are -fed but sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since -five are yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so -that, on our journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an -hundred and thirty-nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natchikin. -It is also to be remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the -draft, nor dogs but those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this -business, by being tied to stakes with light leathern thongs, which are -made to stretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper distance -out of their reach; so that, by constantly pulling and labouring, in -order to come at their food, they acquire both the strength of limbs and -the habit of drawing, that are necessary for their future destination. - -The coast and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind -of northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, -as at Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge -from what I saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk), are stored with numerous -flocks of wild-ducks, of various species, one kind of which, in -particular, has a most beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives -_a-an-gitche_, a word intended to express its cry, which is not less -singular than agreeable, consisting of three distinct notes, rising at -equal intervals above each other.[51] - -There is another species called the mountain-duck[52], which, Steller -says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of -extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other -water-fowl, which from their size seemed to be of the wild-goose kind. - -In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a -prodigious size, but of what species they were I cannot pretend to -determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black -eagle, with a white head, tail, and legs[53], of which the eaglets are -as white as snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a -light grey; and the lead, or stone-coloured eagle[54], which is the most -common; and probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, -and bustard kind, there are great numbers. - -This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of -grouse, or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in -their entertainments generally to make a part of the repast, though I do -not remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of -wild-fowl with which the country is stored, was manifest from the -numerous presents we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint -Paul, and which sometimes consisted of twenty brace. - -We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with -which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were, at this time, in pursuit -of the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the -rivers. Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, -and to be found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea. - -The sea-otters[55] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka -Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in -great plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal -abundance here; but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their -skins to China, where they are sold at a price much beyond that of any -other kind of fur, they have been hunted almost entirely out of the -country. Amongst the Kurile islands they are still caught, though in no -great numbers; but are of a superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or -the American coast. - -We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering’s Island, scarce a sea-otter -is now to be found; though it appears from Muller[56], that in his time -they were exceedingly plentiful. - -The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious -sea-animals, which are said to frequent these coasts: the reason why we -saw no other kinds might be, that this was the season of their -migration. - -Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude -them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr. Pennant has a work, -almost ready for publication, entitled, _Arctic Zoology_; in which the -learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this -peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his -Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with references to his work, and permission -to insert it. It will be found at the end of this chapter; and I feel -myself extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby -presenting him with what could have been furnished from no other -quarter, one entire view of Kamtschadale zoology. - -Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which -Providence hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula, who in -general must never expect to draw any considerable part of their -sustenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has -been remarked, affords some good and nourishing roots, and every part of -the country abounds in berries; but though these alone would be -insufficient for the support of the people, yet, at the same time, they -are necessary correctives of the putrescent quality of their dried fish. -In short, fish may, with much greater justice, be here called the staff -of life, than bread is in other countries; since it appears, that -neither the inhabitants, nor the only domestic animal they have, the -dog, could exist without it. - -Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotsk and on the side of -the eastern ocean, and when caught are turned to a variety of uses. Of -the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for -various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat, is carefully -stored, both for kitchen use and for their lamps. The whiskers are found -to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes; -they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and, with -the under jaw-bones, their sledges are shod. They likewise work the -bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are -tied were made of that material, though at present iron ones are -generally used. The intestines they clean, then blow and dry like -bladders, and it is in these their oil and grease is stored; and of the -nerves and veins, which are both strong and slip readily, they make -excellent snares; so that there is no part of the whale which here does -not find its use. - -From the middle of May till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught -great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of -three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged -out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm, -and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, -like turbot, and streaked with dark brown lines, running from the head -toward the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. -They approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They -had entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but -were beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already -mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we -filled a great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June, -large quantities of excellent cod were taken, a part of which were -likewise salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small -fish, much resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish. - -Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on -the salmon fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter -provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found -on this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and -which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in -which they ascend the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of -different sorts are seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they -never mix with each other; that they always return to the same river in -which they were bred, but not till the third summer; that neither the -male nor female live to regain the sea; that certain species frequent -certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty -themselves nearly at the same place. - -The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about -the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales -_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally -about three feet and a half: they are very deep in proportion, and their -average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, -but straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other -respects they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river -with extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly -agitated by their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the -watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach -by this circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. -We were presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to -understand that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. -Krascheninicoff relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of -eating the first fish they took, with great rejoicings, and a variety of -superstitious ceremonies; and that after the Russians became their -masters, it was for a long time a constant subject of quarrel between -them, to whom the first should belong. The season for fishing, for this -species, lasts from the middle of May till the end of June. - -The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen -pounds; they are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to -collect in the bays, and at the mouths of the rivers, the beginning of -June; from which time, till the end of September, they are caught in -great quantities both upon the eastern and western coast, where any -fresh water falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the -rivers, to their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets -within the bay of Awatska, is as follows: they tie one end of the net to -a large stone at the water’s edge, they then push off in a canoe about -twenty yards in a right line, dropping their net as they advance, after -which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel -to the shore; in this position they wait, concealing themselves very -carefully in the boat, and keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which -always direct their course close in with the shore, and whose approach -is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the shoal -has advanced beyond the boat, when they shoot the canoe to shore in a -direct line, and never fail of enclosing their prey. Seldom more than -two men are employed to a net, who hawl with facility, in this manner, -seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a dozen. We at first met -with very poor success in our own method of hawling; but after the -Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not less -successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across, -and hawl another down the stream to it. - -The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of -all those that I saw, abound with fish, that have very much the -resemblance of small salmon, and are from four to six pounds’ weight. I -could not understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while -to fish for them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey -to the bears and dogs during the summer; and if I might judge from the -quantity of bones to be seen upon the banks, they devour vast numbers of -them. - -The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very -little of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being -first taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. -The former of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part -of the fish, and sold, when we were at Saint Peter’s and Saint Paul’s, -at the rate of one hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the -air, and either eaten whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which -they make paste and cakes, that are not unpleasant to the taste. The -head, tail, and bones, are hung up and dried for winter provision for -the dogs. - - - _List of the Animals found in Kamtschatka, communicated by Mr._ - PENNANT.[57] - - ** Argali, wild sheep, Arct. _Capra ammon_, Lyn. - Zool. Sist. 97 - vol. i. - p. 12 - - Ibex, _or_ wild goat 16 _Capra ibex_ 90 - - ** Rein 22 _Cervus tarandus_ 93 - - ** Wolf 38 _Canis lupus_ 58 - - ** Dog 40 - - ** Arctic fox 42 _Canis lagopus_ 59 - - ** European fox 45 _Canis vulpes_ _ib._ - - a. black 46 - - b. cross _ib._ - - ** Polar bear, in the frozen sea 55 _Ursus arctos_ 69 - only - - ** Bear 57 _Ursus arctos._ - - ** Wolverene 66 _Ursus luscus_ 71 - - ** Common weasel 75 _Mustela nivalis_ 69 - - ** Stoat, _or_ ermine _ib._ _Mustela erminea_ 68 - - ** Sable 79 _Mustela zibellina_ _ib._ - - Common otter 86 _Mustela lutra_ 66 - - ** Sea otter 88 _Mustela lutris_ _ib._ - - ** Varying hare 94 _Lepus timidus._ - - Alpine hare 97 - - ** Earless marmot 113 _Mus citellus_ 113 - - Bobak marmot 115 - - Water rat 130 _Mus amphibius_ 82 - - Common mouse 131 _Mus musculus_ 83 - - Oeconomic mouse 134 - - Red mouse 136 - - Ichelag mouse 138 - - Fœtid shrew 139 _Sorex araneus_ 74 - - ** Walrus. Icy sea 144 _Trichechus rosmarus_ 49 - - ** Common seal 151 _Phoca vitulina_ 56 - - Great seal 159 - - Leporine seal 161 - - Harp seal 163 - - Rubbon seal. Kurile isles 165 - - Ursine seal _ib._ _Phoca ursina_ 58 - - Leonine seal 172 - - ** Whale-tailed manati 177 - -There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka, till they were introduced -by the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are -aboriginal. - - - _Birds._ - - _LAND BIRDS._ - - I. Sea eagle. Vol. II. _Falco ossifragus_ 124 - p. 194 - - ** Cinereous eagle 214 _Vultur albiulla_ 123 - - ** White-headed eagle 196 _Falco leucocephalus_ _ib._ - - Crying eagle 215 - - Osprey 199 _Falco haliætus_ 129 - - Peregrine falcon 202 [58]73 - - Goshawk 204 _Falco palumbarius_ 130 - - II. Eagle owl 228 _Strix bubo_ 131 - - Snowy owl 233 _Strix nyctea_ 132 - - III. Raven 246 _Corvus corax_ 155 - - Magpie 147 _Corvus pica_ 157 - - Nutcracker 252 _Corvus caryocatactes_ _ib._ - - IV. Cuckoo 266 _Cuculus canorus_ 168 - - V. Wryneck 267 _Jynx Torquilla_ 172 - - VI. Nuthatch 281 _Sitta Europea_ 177 - - VII. White grous 308 _Tetrao lagopus_ 274 - - Wood grous 312 _Tetrao urogallus_ 273 - - VIII. Water ouzel 332 _Sturnus cinclus._ - - IX. Fieldfare 340 _Turdus pilaris_ 291 - - Redwing thrush 341 _Turdus iliacus_ 292 - - Kamtschatkan 343 (Latham, iii. 28.) - - X. Greenfinch 353 _Loxia chloris_ 304 - - XI. Golden bunting 367 (Latham, ii. 201.) - - XII. Lesser red-headed linnet 379 (Latham, ii. 305.) - - XIII. Dun fly-catcher 390 (Latham, ii. 351.) - - XIV. Sky-lark 394 A. _Alauda arvensis_ 287 - - Wood lark 395 B. _Alauda arborea_ _ib._ - - XV. White wagtail 396 E. _Motacilla alba_ 331 - - Yellow wagtail _ib._ F. _Motacilla flava_ _ib._ - - Tschutski wagtail 397 H. - - XVI. Yellow wren 413 _Motacilla trochilus_ 338 - - Redstart 416 _Motacilla phœnicurus_ 335 - - Longbilled 420 - - Stapazina 421 _Motacilla stapazina_ 331 - - Awatska 422 - - XVII. Marsh titmouse 427 _Parus palustris_ 341 - - XVIII. Chimney swallow 429 _Hirundo rustica_ 343 - - Martin 430 _Hirundo urbica_ 344 - - Sand martin _ib._ _Hirundo riparia_ _ib._ - - XIX. European goatsucker 437 _Caprimulgus Europeus_ 346 - - - _Water Fowl._ - - _CLOVEN-FOOTED WATER FOWL._ - - Great tern No. 448 _Sterna hirundo._ - - Kamtschatkan P. 525 - A. - - Black-headed gull No. 455 _Larus ridibundus_ 225 - - Kittiwake gull No. 456 _Larus rissa_ 224 - - Ivory gull No. 457 - - Arctic gull No. 459 - - Tarrock P. 533 _Larus tridactylus_ 224 - D. - - Red-legged No. - _ib_. E. - - Fulmar petrel No. 464 _Procellaria glacialis_ 213 - - Stormy petrel No. _Procellaria pelagica_ 212 - _ib._ - - Kurile petrel P. 536 - A. - - Blue petrel.[59] Preface. - - Goosander merganser No. 465 _Mergus merganser_ 208 - - Smew No. 468 _Mergus albellus_ 209 - - Whistling swan No. 469 _Anas Cygnus ferus_ 194 A. - - Great goose P. 570 - - Chinese goose P. 571 _Anas cygnoides_ _ib._ B. - - Snow goose No. 477 - - Brent goose No. 478 _Anas bernicla_ 198 - - Eider duck No. 480 _Anas mollissima_ _ib._ - - Black duck No. 483 _Anas spectabilis_ 195 - - Velvet duck No. 481 _Anas fusca_ 196 - - Shoveler No. 485 _Anas clypeata_ 200 - - Golden eye No. 486 _Anas clangula_ 201 - - Harlequin No. 490 _Anas histrionica_ 204 - - Mallard No. 494 _Anas boschas_ 205 - - ** Western No. 497 - - Pintail No. 500 _Anas acuta_ 202 - - ** Longtailed No. 501 _Anas glacialis_ 203 - - Mouillon P. 573 _Anas glaucion_ 201 - F. - - Shieldrake P. 572 _Anas tadorna_ 195 - D. - - Tufted P. 573 _Anas fuligula_ 207 - G. - - Falcated P. 574 - I. - - Gargany P. 576 _Anas querquedula_ 263 - O. - - Teal P. 577 _Anas crecia_ 204 - P. - - Corvorant No. 509 _Pelecanus carvo_ 216 - - Violet corvorant P. 584 - B. - - Red-faced corvorant _ib._ - C. - - Crane P. 453 _Ardea grus_ 334 - A. - - Curlew P. 462 _Scolopax arquata_ 242 - A. - - Whimbrel P. 462 _Scolopax phœopus_ 243 - B. - - Common sandpiper No. 388 _Tringa hypoleucos_ 250 - - Gambet No. 394 _Tringa gambetta_ 248 - - Golden plover No. 399 _Charadrius pluvialis_ 254 - - Pied oyster-catcher No. _Hæmatopus ostralegus_ 257 - - _WITH PINNATED FEET._ - - Plain phalarope - - _WITH WEBBED FEET._ - - Wandering albatross No. 423 _Diomedea exulans_ 214 - Razor-bill auk. No. 425 _Alca torda_ 210 - Puffin No. 427 _Alca arctica_ 211 - Antient No. 430 - Pygmy No. 431 - Tufted No. 432 - Parroquet No. 433 - Crested No. 434 - Dusky No. 435 - Foolish guillemot No. 436 _Colymbus troille_ 220 - Black guillemot No. 437 _Colymbus grylle_ _ib._ - Marbled guillemot No. 438 - Imber diver No. 440 _Colymbus immer_ 222 - Speckled diver No. 441 - Red-throated diver No. 443 _Colymbus septentrionalis_ 220 - - - - - CHAP. VII. - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF KAMTSCHATKA CONTINUED.—OF THE INHABITANTS.—ORIGIN OF - THE KAMTSCHADALES.—DISCOVERED BY THE RUSSIANS.—ABSTRACT OF THEIR - HISTORY.—NUMBERS.—PRESENT STATE.—OF THE RUSSIAN COMMERCE IN - KAMTSCHATKA.—OF THE KAMTSCHADALE HABITATIONS AND DRESS.—OF THE KURILE - ISLANDS.—THE KOREKI.—THE TSCHUTSKI. - - -The present inhabitants of Kamtschatka are of three sorts. The natives, -or Kamtschadales; the Russians and Cossacks; and a mixture of these two -by marriage. - -Mr. Steller, who resided some time in this country, and seems to have -taken great pains to gain information on this subject, is persuaded, -that the true Kamtschadales are a people of great antiquity, and have -for many ages inhabited this peninsula; and that they are originally -descended from the Mungalians, and not either from the Tongusian -Tartars, as some, or the Japanese, as others, have imagined. - -The principal arguments, by which he supports these opinions, are; that -there exists not among them the trace of a tradition of their having -migrated from any other country; that they believe themselves to have -been created and placed in this very spot by their god Koutkou; that -they are the most favoured of his creatures; the most fortunate and -happy of beings; and that their country is superior to all others, -affording means of gratification far beyond what are any where else to -be met with; that they have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of the -country, their virtues and uses, which could not be acquired in a short -time; that their instruments and household utensils differ greatly from -those of any other nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of -neatness and dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own -invention, and have been long in arriving at so great perfection; that -antecedently to the arrival of the Russians and Cossacks among them, -they had not the smallest knowledge of any people except the Koreki; -that it is but of late they had an intercourse with the Kuriles, and -still later (and happened by means of a vessel being shipwrecked on -their coast) that they knew any thing of the Japanese; and, lastly, that -the country was very populous, at the time the Russians first got -footing in it. - -The reasons he alleges for supposing them to be originally descended -from the Mungalians are; that many words in their language have -terminations similar to those of the Mungalian Chinese, such as, _ong_, -_ing_, _oing_, _tching_, _tcha_, _tchoing_, _ksi_, _ksung_, &c.; and -moreover, that the same principle of inflexion or derivation obtains in -both languages; that they are in general under-sized, as are the -Mungalians; that their complexion, like theirs, is swarthy; that they -have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nose short and flat, -the eyes small and sunk, the eye-brows thin, the belly pendant, the legs -small; all which are peculiarities that are to be found among the -Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclusion, that they -fled for safety to this peninsula, from the rapid advances of the -eastern conquerors; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &c. were compelled -to retreat to the extremities of the north, by the Europeans. - -The Russians having extended their conquests, and established posts and -colonies along that immense extent of coast of the frozen sea, from the -Jenesei to the Anadir, appointed commissaries for the purpose of -exploring and subjecting the countries still farther eastward. They soon -became acquainted with the wandering Koriacs inhabiting the north and -north-east coast of the sea of Okotsk, and without difficulty made them -tributary. These being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtschadales, -and likewise in the habit of bartering with them, a knowledge of -Kamtschatka followed of course. - -The honour of the first discovery is given to Feodot Alexeieff, a -merchant, who is said to have sailed from the river Kovyma round the -peninsula of the Tschutski, in company with seven other vessels, about -the year 1648. The tradition goes, that being separated from the rest by -a storm, near the Tschukotskoi Noss, he was driven upon the coast of -Kamtschatka, where he wintered; and the summer following coasted round -the promontory of Lopatka, into the sea of Okotsk, and entered the mouth -of the Tigil; but that he and his companions were cut off by the -Koriacs, in endeavouring to pass from thence by land to the Anadirsk. -This in part is corroborated by the accounts of Simeon Deshneff, who -commanded one of the seven vessels, and was thrown on shore at the mouth -of the Anadir. Be this as it may, since these discoveries, if such they -were, he did not live to make any report of what they had done. -Volodimir Atlassoff, a Cossack, stands for the first acknowledged -discoverer of Kamtschatka.[60] - -This person was sent, in the year 1697, from the fort Jakutsk to the -Anadirsk, in the quality of commissary, with instructions to call in the -assistance of the Koriacs, with a view to the discovery of countries -beyond theirs, and to the subjecting them to a tribute. In 1699, he -penetrated, with about sixty Russian soldiers, and the same number of -Cossacks, into the heart of the peninsula, gained the Tigil, and from -thence, levying a tribute in furs, in his progress crossed over to the -river Kamtschatka, on which he built the higher Kamtschatka _ostrog_, -called Verchnei, where he left a garrison of sixteen Cossacks, and -returned to Jakutsk in 1700, with an immense quantity of rare and -valuable tributary furs. These he had the good sense and policy to -accompany to Moscow, and, in recompence for his services, was appointed -commander of the fort of Jakutsk, with farther orders to repair again to -Kamtschatka, having first drawn from the garrison at Tolbolsk a -reinforcement of a hundred Cossacks, with ammunition, and whatever else -could give efficacy to the completion and settlement of his late -discoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirsk, he fell in -with a bark on the river[61] Tunguska, laden with Chinese merchandize, -which he pillaged; and, in consequence of a remonstrance from the -sufferers to the Russian court, he was seized upon at Jakutsk, and -thrown into prison. - -In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlassoff, kept -peaceable possession of the garrison of Verchnei; and though he had not -a sufficient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, -yet, by his management and conciliating disposition, he continued to -carry on an advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return -to the Anadirsk, with the general good-will of the natives of -Kamtschatka, himself and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and -unfortunately all cut off. This happened about 1703; and several other -successive commissaries were sent into Kamtschatka, with various -success, during the disgrace and trial of Atlassoff. - -In 1706, Atlassoff was reinstated in his command, and appointed to -conduct a second expedition into Kamtschatka, with instructions to gain -upon the natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have -recourse to force and compulsion; but, instead of attending to his -orders, he not only, by repeated acts of cruelty and injustice, made the -natives exceedingly hostile and averse to their new governors, but -likewise so far alienated the affections of his own people, that it -ended in a mutiny of the Cossacks, and their demand of another -commander. The Cossacks having carried their point in displacing -Atlassoff, seized upon his effects; and after once tasting the sweets of -plunder, and of living without discipline or control, in vain did his -successors attempt to reduce them to military discipline and subjection. -Three successive commanders were assassinated in their turn; and the -Cossacks, being thus in open rebellion to the Russian government, and -with arms in their hands, were let loose upon the natives. The history -of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the -Kamtschadales in 1731, presents one unvaried detail of massacres, -revolts, and savage and sanguinary rencounters between small parties, -from one end of the peninsula to the other. - -What led to this revolt, was the discovery of a passage from Okotsk to -the Bolchoireka, which was first made by Cosmo Sokoloff, in the year -1715. Hitherto the Russians had no entrance into the country, but on the -side of Anadirsk; so that the natives had frequent opportunities of both -plundering the tribute, as it was carried by so long a journey out of -the peninsula, and harassing the troops in their march into it. But, by -the discovery of this communication, there existed a safe and speedy -means, as well of exporting the tribute, as of importing troops and -military stores into the very heart of the country; which the natives -easily saw gave the Russians so great an advantage, as must soon confirm -their dominion, and therefore determined them to make one grand and -immediate struggle for their liberty. The moment resolved upon for -carrying their designs into execution, was when Beering should have set -sail, who was at this time on the coast with a small squadron, and had -dispatched all the troops that could well be spared from the country, to -join Powloutski, in an expedition against the Tschutski. The opportunity -was well chosen; and it is altogether surprising that this conspiracy, -which was so general, that every native in the peninsula is said to have -had his share in it, was at the same time conducted with such secrecy, -that the Russians had not the smallest suspicion that any thing hostile -to their interests was in agitation. Their other measures were equally -well taken. They had a strong body in readiness to cut off all -communication with the fort Anadirsk; and the eastern coast was likewise -lined with detached parties, with a view of seizing on any Russians that -might by accident arrive from Okotsk. Things were in this state, when -the commissary Cheekaerdin marched from Verchnei with his tribute, -escorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the Kamtschatka -river, where a vessel was lying to convey them to the Anadir. Besides -waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be suspended -till this vessel should be out at sea, notice of which was to be given -to the different chiefs. Accordingly, the moment she was out of sight, -they began to massacre every Russian and Cossack that came in their way, -and to set fire to their houses. A large body ascended the river -Kamtschatka, made themselves masters of the fort and _ostrog_ the -commissary had just quitted, put to death all that were in it, and, -except the church and fort, reduced the whole to ashes. Here it was that -they first learned that the Russian vessel, in which the commissary had -embarked, was still on the coast, which determined them to defend -themselves in the fort. The wind fortunately soon brought the vessel -back to the harbour; for had she proceeded in her voyage, nothing -probably could have prevented the utter extirpation of the Russians. The -Cossacks finding, on their landing, that their houses had been burnt to -the ground, and their wives and children either massacred or carried off -prisoners, were enraged to madness. They marched directly to the fort, -which they attacked with great fury, and the natives as resolutely -defended, till at length, the powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was -blown up, together with most of those that were in it. Various -rencounters succeeded to this event, in which much blood was spilled on -both sides. At length, two of the principal leaders being slain, and the -third (after dispatching his wife and children, to prevent their falling -into the enemy’s hand) having put an end to himself, peace was -established. - -From that period every thing went on very peaceably, till the year 1740, -when a few Russians lost their lives in a tumult which was attended with -no farther consequences; and, except the insurrection at Bolcheretsk in -1770, (which hath been already noticed), there has been no disturbance -since. - -Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the loss of -a great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed, that the country had -recovered itself, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the -year 1767, the small-pox, brought by a soldier from Okotsk, broke out -among them for the first time, marking its progress with ravages not -less dreadful than the plague, and seeming to threaten their entire -extirpation. They compute, that near twenty thousand died of this -disorder in Kamtschatka, the Koreki country, and the Kurile Islands. The -inhabitants of whole villages were swept away. Of this we had sufficient -proofs before our eyes. There are no less than eight _ostrogs_ scattered -about the bay of Awatska, all which, we were informed, had been fully -inhabited, but are now entirely desolate, except Saint Peter and Saint -Paul, and even that contains no more than seven Kamtschadales, who are -tributary. At Paratounca _ostrog_ there are but thirty-six native -inhabitants, men, women, and children, which, before it was visited by -the small-pox, we were told, contained three hundred and sixty. In our -road to Bolcheretsk, we passed four extensive _ostrogs_, with not an -inhabitant in them. In the present diminished state of the natives, with -fresh supplies of Russians and Cossacks perpetually pouring in, and who -intermix with them by marriage, it is probable that in less than half a -century there will be very few of them left. By Major Behm’s account, -there are not now more than three thousand who pay tribute, the Kurile -islanders included. - -I understood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five -forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretsk, and Saint Peter and -Saint Paul, about four hundred Russians and Cossacks, and near the same -number at Ingiga, which, though to the north of the peninsula, is, I -learned, at present under the commander of Kamtschatka. To these may be -added the Russian traders and emigrants, whose numbers are not very -considerable. - -The Russian government established over this country is mild and -equitable, considered as a military one, in a very high degree. The -natives are permitted to choose their own magistrates from among -themselves, in the way and with the same powers they had ever been used. -One of these, under the title of _Toion_, presides over each _ostrog_; -is the referee in all differences; imposes fines, and inflicts -punishments for all crimes and misdemeanors; referring to the governor -of Kamtschatka such only as he does not choose, from their intricacy or -heinousness, to decide upon himself. The _Toion_ has likewise the -appointment of a civil officer, called a corporal, who assists him in -the execution of his office, and in his absence acts as his deputy. - -By an edict of the present empress, no crime whatsoever can be punished -with death. But we were informed, that in cases of murder (of which -there are very few), the punishment of the _knout_ is administered with -such severity, that the offender for the most part dies under it. - -The only tribute exacted (which can be considered as little more than an -acknowledgment of the Russian dominion over them) consists, in some -districts, of a fox’s skin; in others of a sable’s; and in the Kurile -isles of a sea-otter’s; but as this is much the most valuable, one skin -serves to pay the tribute of several persons. The _Toions_ collect the -tribute in their respective districts. Besides the mildness of their -government, the Russians have a claim to every praise for the pains they -have bestowed, and which have been attended with great success, in -converting them to Christianity, there remaining, at present, very few -idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other missionaries, from -the hospitable and benevolent pastor of Paratounca (who is a native on -the mother’s side), more suitable persons could not be set over this -business. It is needless to add, that the religion taught is that of the -Greek church. Schools are likewise established in many of the _ostrogs_, -where the children of both the natives and Cossacks are gratuitously -instructed in the Russian language. - -The commerce of this country, as far as concerns the exports, is -entirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a company of -merchants, instituted by the present empress. This company originally -consisted of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are -indulged with certain privileges, and distinguished by wearing a golden -medal, as a mark of the empress’s encouragement and protection of the -fur trade. Besides these, there are many inferior traders (particularly -of the Cossacks) scattered through the country. The principal merchants, -for the time they are here, reside at Bolcheretsk, or the Nishnei -_ostrog_, in which two places the trade almost wholly centres. Formerly -this commerce was altogether carried on in the way of barter; but of -late years every article is bought and sold for ready money only; and we -were surprized at the quantity of specie in circulation in so poor a -country. The furs sell at a high price, and the situation and habits of -life of the natives call for few articles in return. Our sailors brought -a great number of furs with them from the coast of America, and were not -less astonished than delighted with the quantity of silver the merchants -paid down for them; but on finding neither gin-shops to resort to, nor -tobacco, or any thing else that they cared for, to be had for money, the -roubles soon became troublesome companions, and I often observed them -kicking them about the deck. The merchant I have already had occasion to -mention, gave our men at first thirty roubles for a sea-otter’s skin, -and for others in proportion; but finding that they had considerable -quantities to dispose of, and that he had men to deal with who did not -know how to keep up the market, he afterward bought them for much less. - -The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined -to Russian manufactures; many are English and Dutch; several likewise -come from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucs, and China. They consist of -coarse woollen and linen cloths, yarn stockings, bonnets, and gloves; -thin Persian silks, cottons, and pieces of nankeen, silk and cotton -handkerchiefs; brass coppers and pans, iron stoves, files, guns, powder -and shot; hardware, such as hatchets, bills, knives, scissars, needles, -looking-glasses, flour, sugar, tanned hides, boots, &c. - -We had an opportunity of seeing a great many of these articles in the -hands of a merchant, who came in the empress’s galliot from Okotsk; and -I shall only observe generally, that they sold for treble the price they -might have been purchased for in England. And though the merchants have -so large a profit upon these imported goods, they have still a larger -upon the furs at Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the -great market for them. The best sea-otter skins sell generally in -Kamtschatka for about thirty roubles a-piece. The Chinese merchant at -Kiachta purchases them at more than double that price, and sells them -again at Pekin at a great advance, where a farther profitable trade is -made with some of them to Japan. If, therefore, a skin is worth thirty -roubles in Kamtschatka, to be transported first to Okotsk, thence to be -conveyed by land to Kiachta, a distance of one thousand three hundred -and sixty-four miles, thence on to Pekin, seven hundred and sixty miles -more, and after this to be transported to Japan, what a prodigiously -advantageous trade might be carried on between this place and Japan, -which is but about a fortnight’s, at most three weeks’ sail from it? - -All furs exported from hence across the sea of Okotsk, pay a duty of ten -_per cent._, and sables a duty of twelve. And all sorts of merchandize, -of whatever denomination, imported from Okotsk, pay half a rouble for -every pood.[62] - -The duties arising from the exports and imports, of which I could not -learn the amount, are paid at Okotsk: but the tribute is collected at -Bolcheretsk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten -thousand roubles annually. - -There are six vessels (of forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by the -empress between Okotsk and Bolcheretsk, five of which are appropriated -to the transporting of stores and provisions from Okotsk to Bolcheretsk; -except that once in two or three years, some of them go round to -Awatska, and the Kamtschatka river; the sixth is only used as a -packet-boat, and always kept in readiness, and properly equipped for -conveying dispatches. Besides these, there are about fourteen vessels -employed by the merchants in the fur trade, amongst the islands to the -eastward. One of these we found frozen up in the harbour of Saint Peter -and Saint Paul, which was to sail on a trading voyage to Oonalashka, as -soon as the season would permit. - -It is here to be observed, that the most considerable and valuable part -of the fur-trade is carried on with the islands that lie between -Kamtschatka and America. These were first discovered by Beering, in -1741, and being found to abound with sea-otters, the Russian merchants -became exceedingly eager in searching for the other islands seen by that -navigator, to the south-east of Kamtschatka, called, in Muller’s map, -the Islands of Seduction, St. Abraham, &c. In these expeditions they -fell in with three groups of islands. The first, about fifteen degrees -to the east of Kamtschatka, in 53° N. latitude; the second, about twelve -degrees to the eastward of the former; and the third, Oonalashka, and -the islands in its neighbourhood. These trading adventurers advanced -also as far east as Shumagin’s Islands (so called by Beering), the -largest of which is named Kodlak. But here, as well as on the continent -at Alaska, they met with so warm a reception, in their attempts to -compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward ventured so -far. However, they conquered and made tributary the three groups before -mentioned. - -In the Russian charts, the whole sea between Kamtschatka and America is -covered with islands; for the adventurers in these expeditions -frequently falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with -the situation of other laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately -concluded it must be a new discovery, and reported it as such on their -return; and since the vessels employed in these expeditions were usually -out three or four years, and oftentimes longer, these mistakes were not -in the way of being soon rectified. It is, however, now pretty certain, -that the islands already enumerated are all that have yet been -discovered by the Russians in that sea to the southward of 60° of -latitude. - -It is from these islands that the sea-otter skins, the most valuable -article of the fur trade, are for the most part drawn; and as they are -brought completely under the Russian dominion, the merchants have -settlements upon them where their factors reside, for the purpose of -bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increase -and extension of this trade, that the admiralty of Okotsk fitted out an -expedition for the purpose of making discoveries to the north and -north-east of the islands above mentioned, and gave the command of it, -as I have already observed, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having -directed his course too far to the northward, failed in the object of -his voyage; for, as we never saw the sea-otter to the northward of -Bristol Bay, it seems probable that they shun those latitudes where the -larger kind of amphibious sea animals abound. This was the last -expedition undertaken by the Russians for prosecuting discoveries to the -eastward; but they will undoubtedly make a proper use of the advantages -we have opened to them, by the discovery of Cook’s river. - -Notwithstanding the general intercourse that, for the last forty years, -hath taken place between the natives, the Russians, and Cossacks, the -former are not more distinguished from the latter by their features and -general figure, than by their habits and cast of mind. Of the persons of -the natives, a description hath been already given, and I shall only -add, that their stature is much below the common size. This Major Behm -attributes, in a great measure, to their marrying so early; both sexes -generally entering into the conjugal state at the age of thirteen or -fourteen. Their industry is abundantly conspicuous, without being -contrasted with the laziness of their Russian and Cossack inmates, who -are fond of intermarrying with them, and, as it should seem, for no -other reason but that they may be supported in sloth and inactivity. To -this want of bodily exertion may be attributed those dreadful scorbutic -complaints which none of them escape; whilst the natives, by constant -exercise and toil in the open air, are entirely free from them. - -Referring the reader for an account of the manners, customs, and -superstitions of the Kamtschadales at the time the Russians became first -acquainted with this country to Krascheninicoff, I shall proceed to a -description of their habitations and dress. - -The houses (if they may be allowed that name) are of three distinct -sorts, _jourts_, _balagans_, and _log-houses_, called here _isbas_. The -first are their winter; the second their summer habitations; the third -are altogether of Russian introduction, and inhabited only by the better -and wealthier sort. - -The _jourts_, or winter habitations, are constructed in the following -manner: An oblong square of dimensions proportioned to the number of -persons for whom it is intended, (for it is proper to observe, that -several families live together in the same _jourt_,) is dug in the earth -to the depth of about six feet. Within this space strong posts, or -wooden pillars, are fastened in the ground, at proper distances from -each other, on which are extended the beams for the support of the roof, -which is formed by joists, resting on the ground with one end, and on -the beams with the other. The interstices between the joists are filled -up with a strong wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; so that a -_jourt_ has externally the appearance of a round squat hillock. A hole -is left in the centre, which serves for chimney, window, and entrance, -and the inhabitants pass in and out by means of a strong pole (instead -of a ladder), notched just deep enough to afford a little holding to the -toe. There is likewise another entrance in the side, even with the -ground, for the convenience of the women; but if a man makes use of it, -he subjects himself to the same disgrace and derision as a sailor would, -who descends through lubbers’ hole. The _jourt_ consists of one -apartment of the form of an oblong square. Along the sides are extended -broad platforms, made of boards, and raised about six inches from the -ground, which they use as seats, and on which they go to rest, after -strewing them with mats and skins. On one side is the fire-place, and -the side opposite is entirely set apart for the stowage of provisions -and kitchen utensils. At their feasts and ceremonious entertainments, -the hotter the _jourts_ are made for the reception of the guests the -greater the compliment. We found them at all times so hot, as to make -any length of stay in them to us intolerable. They betake themselves to -the _jourts_ the middle of October; and, for the most part, continue in -them till the middle of May. - -The _balagans_ are raised upon nine posts, fixed into the earth in three -rows, at equal distances from one another, and about thirteen feet high -from the surface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters -are passed from post to post, and firmly secured by strong ropes. On -these rafters are laid the joists, and the whole being covered with -turf, constitutes the platform or floor of the _balagan_. On this is -raised a roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, fastened down -to the rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, -and thatched over with strong coarse grass. The _balagans_ have two -doors placed opposite each other, and they ascend to them by the same -sort of ladders they use in the _jourts_. The lower part is left -entirely open; and within it they dry their fish, roots, vegetables, and -other articles of winter consumption. The proportion of _jourts_ to -_balagans_ is as one to six; so that six families generally live -together in one _jourt_. - -The loghouses (_isbas_) are raised with long timbers piled horizontally, -the ends being let into one another, and the seams calked with moss. The -roof is sloping like that of our common cottage houses, and thatched -with coarse grass or rushes. The inside consists of three apartments. At -one end is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and -height of the house, and is the receptacle of their sledges, harness, -and other more bulky gears and household stuff. This communicates with -the middle and best apartment, furnished with broad benches for the -purpose, as hath been above mentioned, of both eating and sleeping upon. -Out of this is a door into the kitchen, one half of which is taken up by -the oven or fire-place, so contrived, by being let into the wall that -separates the kitchen and the middle apartment, as to warm both at the -same time. Over the middle apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which -they ascend by a ladder placed in the entry. There are two small windows -in each apartment made of _talc_, and, in the houses of the poorer sort, -of fish-skin. The beams and boards of the ceiling are dubbed smooth with -a hatchet (for they are unacquainted with the plane); and, from the -effects of the smoke, are as black and shining as jet. - -A town of Kamtschatka is called an _ostrog_, and consists of several of -the three sorts of houses above described; but of which _balagans_ are -much the most numerous; and I must observe, that I never met with a -house of any kind detached from an _ostrog_. Saint Peter and Saint Paul -consists of seven log-houses, or _isbas_, nineteen _balagans_, and three -_jourts_. Paratounca is of about the same size. Karatchin and Natchekin -contain fewer log-houses, but full as many _jourts_ and _balagans_ as -the former; from whence I conclude, that such is the usual size of the -_ostrogs_. - -Having already had occasion to mention the dress of the Kamtschadale -women, I shall here confine myself to a description of that of the men. - -The outermost garment is of the shape of a carter’s frock. Those worn in -summer are of nankeen; in winter they are made of skins, most commonly -of the deer or dog, tanned on one side, the hair being left on the -other, which is worn innermost. Under this is a close jacket of nankeen, -or other cotton stuffs; and beneath that a shirt of thin Persian silk, -of a blue, red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their dress -consists of a pair of tight trowsers, or long breeches, of leather, -reaching down to the calf of the leg; of a pair of dog or deer-skin -boots, with the hair innermost; and of a fur cap, with two flaps, which -are generally tied up close to the head, but in bad weather are let to -fall round the shoulders. - -The fur dress presented to me by a son of Major Behm (as already -mentioned) is one of those worn by the _Toions_, on ceremonious -occasions. The form exactly resembles that of the common exterior -garment just described. It is made of small triangular pieces of fur, -chequered brown and white, and joined so neatly as to appear to be one -skin. A border of six inches breadth, wrought with threads of different -coloured leather, and producing a rich effect, surrounds the bottom, to -which is suspended a broad edging of the sea-otter skin. The sleeves are -turned up with the same materials; and there is likewise an edging of it -round the neck, and down the opening at the breast. The lining is of a -smooth white skin. A cap, a pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the -utmost degree of neatness, and made of the same materials, constitute -the remainder of this suit. The Russians in Kamtschatka wear the -European dress; and the uniform of the troops quartered here is of a -dark green, faced with red. - -As the people situated to the north and south of this country are yet -imperfectly known, I shall conclude the account of Kamtschatka with such -information concerning the Kurile islands, and the Koreki and Tschutski, -as I have been able to acquire. - -The chain of islands, running in a south-west direction from the -southern promontory of Kamtschatka to Japan, extending from latitude 51° -to 45°, are called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the -inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themselves called -Kuriles, gave their own name to these islands, on first becoming -acquainted with them. They are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in -number, without reckoning the very small ones. The northernmost, called -Shoomska, is not more than three leagues from the promontory Lopatka, -and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamtschadales. The next -to the south, called Paramousir, is much larger than Shoomska, and -inhabited by the true natives; their ancestors, according to a tradition -among them, having come from an island a little farther to the south, -called Onecutan. Those two islands were first visited by the Russians in -1713, and at the same time brought under their dominion. - -The others in order, are at present made tributary down to Ooshesheer -inclusive, as I am informed by the worthy pastor of Paratounca, who is -their missionary, and visits them once in three years, and speaks of the -islanders in terms of the highest commendation, representing them as a -friendly, hospitable, generous, humane race of people, and excelling -their Kamtschadale neighbours, not less in the formation of their -bodies, than in docility and quickness of understanding. Though -Ooshesheer is the southernmost island that the Russians have yet brought -under their dominion, yet I understand that they trade to Ooroop, which -is the eighteenth; and, according to their accounts, the only one where -there is a good harbour for ships of burthen. Beyond this, to the south, -lies Nadeegsda, which was represented to us by the Russians as inhabited -by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like those of Ooroop, live -in a state of entire independence.[63] - -In the same direction, but inclining somewhat more to the westward, lie -a group of islands, which the Japanese call Jeso; a name which they also -give to the whole chain of islands between Kamtschatka and Japan. The -southernmost, called Matmai, hath been long subject to the Japanese, and -is fortified and garrisoned on the side toward the continent. The two -islands to the north-east of Matmai, Kunashir, and Zellany, and likewise -the three still farther to the north-east, called the Three Sisters, are -perfectly independent. - -A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the islands -last-mentioned; and between those again and the Kuriles, to the -northward; in which, for furs, dried fish, and oil, the latter get silk, -cotton, iron, and Japanese articles of furniture.[64] - -The inhabitants of as many of the islands as are brought under the -Russian dominion, are at present converted to Christianity. And probably -the time is not very distant, when a friendly and profitable intercourse -will be brought about between Kamtschatka and the whole of this chain of -islands; and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itself. -This may eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumstance related to -me by Major Behm, that several Russians, who had been taught the -Japanese language by two men belonging to a vessel of that nation, which -had been[65] shipwrecked on the coast of Kamtschatka, had been sent -among those islands. - -The advantages that would accrue to the Russians by an immediate trade -to Japan, have been already adverted to, and are too many, and too -obvious, to need insisting upon. - -The Koreki country includes two distinct nations, called the Wandering -and Fixed Koriacs. - -The former inhabit the northern part of the isthmus of Kamtschatka, and -the whole coast of the Eastern Ocean, from thence to the Anadir. - -The country of the Wandering Koriacs stretches along the north-east of -the sea of Okotsk to the river Penskina, and westward toward the river -Kovyma. - -The Fixed Koriacs have a strong resemblance to the Kamtschadales, and, -like them, depend altogether on fishing for subsistence. Their dress and -habitations are of the same kind. They are tributary to the Russians, -and under the district of the Ingiga. - -The Wandering Koriacs occupy themselves entirely in breeding and -pasturing deer, of which they are said to possess immense numbers; and -that it is no unusual thing for an individual chief to have a herd of -four or five thousand. They despise fish, and live entirely on deer. -They have no _balagans_; and their only habitations are like the -Kamtschadale _jourts_, with this difference, that they are covered with -raw deer-skins in winter, and tanned ones in summer. Their sledges are -drawn by deer, and never by dogs; which, like the latter, are likewise -always spayed, in order to be trained to this business. The draft-deer -pasture in company with the others; and when they are wanted, the -herdsmen make use of a certain cry, which they instantly obey, by coming -out of the herd. - -The priest of Paratounca informed me, that the two nations of the -Koriacs, and the Tschutski speak different dialects of the same -language; and that it bears not the smallest resemblance to the -Kamtschadale. - -The country of the Tschutski is bounded on the south by the Anadir, and -extends along the coast to the Tschutskoi Noss. Like the Wandering -Koriacs, their attention is principally confined to their deer, of which -their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a -stout, well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours -to both nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their -depredatory incursions. The Russians have, for many years, been using -their endeavours to bring them under their dominion; and, after losing a -great many men in their different expeditions for this purpose, have not -been able to effect it. - -I shall here conclude this article; since all we can say of this people, -on our own knowledge, hath been laid before the reader in the preceding -volume. - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - -PLAN OF OUR FUTURE PROCEEDINGS.—COURSE TO THE SOUTHWARD, ALONG THE COAST - OF KAMTSCHATKA.—CAPE LOPATKA.—PASS THE ISLANDS SHOOMSKA AND - PARAMOUSIR.—DRIVEN TO THE EASTWARD OF THE KURILES.—SINGULAR SITUATION - WITH RESPECT TO THE PRETENDED DISCOVERIES OF FORMER NAVIGATORS.— - FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO REACH THE ISLANDS NORTH OF JAPAN.—GEOGRAPHICAL - CONCLUSIONS.—VIEW OF THE COAST OF JAPAN.—RUN ALONG THE EAST SIDE.—PASS - TWO JAPANESE VESSELS.—DRIVEN OFF THE COAST BY CONTRARY WINDS.— - EXTRAORDINARY EFFECT OF CURRENTS.—STEER FOR THE BASHEES.—PASS LARGE - QUANTITIES OF PUMICE STONE.—DISCOVER SULPHUR ISLAND.—PASS THE PRATAS.— - ISLES OF LEMA, AND LADRON ISLAND.—CHINESE PILOT TAKEN ON BOARD THE - RESOLUTION.—JOURNALS OF THE OFFICERS AND MEN SECURED. - - -Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a discretionary -power with the commanding officer of the expedition, in case of failure -in the search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to -return to England, by whatever route he should think best for the -farther improvement of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal -officers their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which -these orders might most effectually be obeyed. The result of our -opinions, which he had the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely -coinciding with his own, that the condition of the ships, of the sails -and cordage, made it unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the -year, to navigate the sea between Japan and Asia, which would otherwise -have afforded the largest field for discovery; that it was therefore -adviseable to keep to the eastward of that island, and in our way -thither to run along the Kuriles, and examine more particularly the -islands that lie nearest the northern coast of Japan, which are -represented as of a considerable size, and independent of the Russian -and Japanese governments. Should we be so fortunate as to find in these -any safe and commodious harbours, we conceived they might be of -importance, either as places of shelter for any future navigators, who -may be employed in exploring the seas, or as the means of opening a -commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions of the two -empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese -Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, as far to the -northward as we were able, and run along it to Macao. - -This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in case of -separation, to proceed immediately to Macao; and at six o’clock in the -evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska -Bay, we steered to the south-east, with the wind north-west and by west. -At midnight, we had a dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; -the light-house, at this time, bearing north half west, distant five -leagues, and Cape Gavareea south by west half west. Being luckily in -soundings of sixty and seventy fathoms’ water, we employed our time very -profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly fine and plentiful; -and at three in the afternoon a breeze sprung up from the west, with -which we stood along the coast to the southward. A head-land bearing -south by west, now opened, with Cape Gavareea, lying about seven leagues -beyond it. Between them are two narrow but deep inlets, which may -probably unite behind what appears to be an high island. The coast of -these inlets is steep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form -chasms and deep valleys, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea -(which lies in latitude 52° 21ʹ, longitude 158° 38ʹ) and Awatska Bay, -there are appearances of several inlets, which at first sight may -flatter the mariner with hopes of finding shelter and safe anchorage: -but the Russian pilots assured us, that there are none capable of -admitting vessels of the smallest size, as the low land fills up the -spaces that appear vacant between the high projecting head-lands. Toward -evening, it again became calm; but at midnight we had a light breeze -from the north, which increased gradually to a strong gale; and at noon -the next day, we found ourselves in latitude 52° 4ʹ, longitude 158° 31ʹ, -when Cape Gavareea bore north by west one quarter west; the south -extreme south-west half west. We were at this time distant from the -nearest shore about three leagues, and saw the whole country inland -covered with snow. A point of land to the southward, which we place in -latitude 51° 54ʹ, formed the north side of a deep bay, called -Achachinskoi, in the distant bottom of which we supposed a large river -to empty itself, from the land behind being so unusually low. South of -Achachinskoi Bay, the land is not so rugged and barren as that part of -the country which we had before passed. - -During the night, we had variable winds and rain; but at four in the -morning of the 12th, it began to blow so strong from the north-east, as -to oblige us to double-reef the top-sails, and make it prudent to stand -more off the shore. At six, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, -we again made sail, and stood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was -51° 0ʹ, longitude 157° 25ʹ. The northernmost land in sight, being the -point we have mentioned as first opening with Cape Gavareea, bore north -north-east. A head-land with a flat top, which is in latitude 51° 27ʹ, -and makes the south point of an inlet, called Girowara, bore north one -quarter east, and the southernmost land in sight west three quarters -north, distant six leagues. At this time we could just perceive low land -stretching from the southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the -north-west, we could not get a nearer view of it. At six in the -afternoon, we saw from the mast-head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost -extremity of Kamtschatka. It is a very low flat cape, sloping gradually -from the high level land that we saw at noon, and bore west half north, -about five leagues distant; and the high land north-west by west half -west. As this point of land forms so marked an object in the geography -of the eastern coast of Asia, we were glad to be able, by an accurate -observation, and several good angles, to determine its precise -situation, which is in latitude 51° 0ʹ, longitude 156° 45ʹ. To the -north-west of it we saw a remarkable high mountain, the top of which -loses itself in the clouds; and, at the same time, the first of the -Kurile Islands, called Shoomska, appeared in sight, bearing west half -south. The passage between this island and Cape Lopatka, the Russians -describe as being three miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of -the rapidity of the tides, and the sunk rocks that are off the Cape. -From Cape Gavareea to Lopatka, the coast trends south-east, south of -Achachinskoi, the land is not so high and broken as between that bay and -the mouth of Awatska, being only of a moderate elevation toward the sea, -with hills gradually rising farther back in the country. The coast is -steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. - -At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity -of catching some fine cod. We were at this time, in forty fathoms’ -water, and about five or six leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore -and afternoon, we had observations, with different compasses, for the -variation, and found it to be 5° 20ʹ E. - -We stood on all night, under an easy sail, to the south south-west, -having the wind westerly. At midnight we sounded, and had sixty fathoms; -and at day-break of the 13th, we saw the second of the Kurile Islands -(called by the Russians Paramousir), extending from north-west by west, -to west half south. This land is very high, and almost entirely covered -with snow. At noon, the extremes bore from north north-west half west, -to west north-west half west; and a high-peaked mountain, from which -some thought they saw smoke issuing, north-west by west half west, about -twelve or fourteen leagues distant. At this time our latitude, by -observation, was 49° 49ʹ, and our longitude 157° 0ʹ. In the course of -the day we saw many gulls and albatrosses, and several whales. - -Paramousir is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of Russia, -and well deserves a more accurate survey, than we were at this time -allowed to take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increasing from the -west, we were never able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon; -and were, therefore, obliged to be contented with endeavouring to -ascertain its situation at that distance. We place the south end of the -island in latitude 49° 58ʹ; the north end in latitude 50° 46ʹ, and in -longitude 10ʹW. of Lopatka; and as this position is found not to differ -materially from that given by the Russians, it is probably very near the -truth. Whilst we were abreast of this island, we had a very heavy swell -from the north-east, though the wind had, for some time, been from the -westward; a circumstance which we have already remarked more than once -during the course of our voyage. In the night we tried for soundings, -but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line. - -On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the -westward, we were obliged to stand to the southward; and consequently -hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile islands. At noon of the -16th, the latitude, by observation, was 45° 27ʹ; the longitude, deduced -from a number of lunar observations taken during the three days past, -155° 30ʹ. The variation 4° 30ʹE. In this situation, we were almost -surrounded by the supposed discoveries of former navigators, and -uncertain to which we should turn ourselves. To the southward and the -south-west were placed, in the French charts, a group of five islands, -called the Three Sisters, Zellany and Kunashir. We were about ten -leagues, according to the same maps, to the westward of the land of De -Gama, which we had passed to the eastward in April last, at a distance -rather less than this, without seeing any appearance of it; from which -circumstance we may now conclude, that, if such land exist at all, it -must be an island of a very inconsiderable size.[66] On the other hand, -if we give credit to the original position of this land, fixed by -Texiera[67], it lay to the west by south; and as the Company’s Land[68], -Staten Island[69], and the famous land of Jeso[70], were also supposed -to lie nearly in the same direction, together with the group first -mentioned, according to the Russian charts, we thought this coast -deserved the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the westward, -the wind having shifted in the afternoon to the northward. During this -day, we saw large flocks of gulls, several albatrosses, fulmars, and a -number of fish, which our sailors called grampuses; but, as far as we -could judge, from the appearance of those that passed close by the -ships, we imagined them to be the _kasatka_, or sword-fish, described by -Krascheninicoff, to whom I refer the reader, for a curious account of -the manner in which they attack the whales. In the evening, a visit from -a small land bird, about the size of a goldfinch, and resembling that -bird in shape and plumage, made us keep a good look out for land. -However, at midnight, on trying for soundings, we found no ground with -forty-five fathoms of line. - -On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 45° 7ʹ, by observation, -longitude 154° 0ʹ. The wind now again coming to the westward, obliged us -to steer a more southerly course; and, at midnight, it blew from that -quarter a fresh gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we -saw another land bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending -their course to the south-west. The heavy north-east swell, with which -we had constantly laboured since our departure from Lopatka, now ceased, -and changed suddenly to the south-east. In the forenoon of the 18th, we -passed great quantities of rock-weed, from which, and the flights of -birds above mentioned, we conjectured we were at no great distance from -the southernmost of the Kuriles; and, at the same time, the wind coming -round to the south, enabled us to stand in for it. At two, we set -studding-sails, and steered west; but the wind increasing to a gale, -soon obliged us to double reef the top-sails; and, at midnight, we -judged it necessary to try for soundings. Accordingly we hove to; but -finding no bottom at seventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to -persevere, and again bore away west, with the wind at south-east. This -course we kept till two in the morning, when the weather becoming thick, -we hauled our wind and steered to the south-west till five, when a -violent storm reduced us to our courses. - -Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather left us little -prospect of making the land, we still kept this object anxiously in -view; and at day-light, ventured to steer west by south, and continued -to stand on in this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind -suddenly shifting to the south-west, brought with it clear weather. Of -this we had scarcely taken advantage, by setting the top-sails, and -letting out the reefs, when it began to blow so strong from this -quarter, that we were forced to close reef again; and at noon, the wind -shifting two points to the west, rendered it vain to keep any longer on -this tack. We, therefore, put about, and steered to the southward. At -this time, our latitude, by observation, was 44° 12ʹ, and longitude 150° -40ʹ; so that, after all our efforts, we had the mortification to find -ourselves, according to the Russian charts, upon a meridian with -Nadeegsda, which they make the southernmost of the Kurile islands, and -about twenty leagues to the southward. - -But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the -last six days, prevented our getting in with these islands, yet the -course we had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical -advantages. For the group of Islands, consisting of the Three Sisters, -Kunashir, and Zellany, which, in D’Anville’s maps, are placed in the -track we had just crossed; being, by this means, demonstratively removed -from that situation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to -the westward, where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude -142° and 147°. But as this space is occupied in the French charts by -part of the supposed land of Jeso and Staten Island, Mr. Muller’s -opinion becomes extremely probable, that they are all the same lands; -and as no reasons appear for doubting Spanberg’s accuracy, we have -ventured, in our general map, to reinstate the Three Sisters, Zellany, -and Kunashir, in their proper situation, and have entirely omitted the -rest. When the reader recollects the manner in which the Russians have -multiplied the islands of the Northern Archipelago, from the want of -accuracy in determining their real situation, and the desire men -naturally feel of propagating new discoveries, he will not be surprised, -that the same causes should produce the same effects. It is thus that -the Jesoian lands, which appear, both from the accounts of the Japanese, -and the earliest Russian traditions, to be no other than the southern -Kurile islands, have been supposed distinct from the latter. The land of -De Gama is next on record, and was originally placed nearly in the same -situation with those just mentioned; but was removed, as has been -already suggested, to make room for Staten Island, and the Company’s -Land; and as Jeso, and the southernmost of the Kuriles, had also -possession of this space, that nothing might be lost, they were provided -for, the former a little to the westward, and the latter to the -eastward. - -As the islands of Zellany and Kunashir, according to the Russian charts, -were still to the southward, we were not without hopes of being able to -make them, and therefore kept our head as much to the westward as the -wind would permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 43° 47ʹ, -and longitude 150° 30ʹ; and steering west by south, with a moderate -breeze from south-east, and probably not more than twenty-four leagues -to the eastward of Zellany, when our good fortune again deserted us. -For, at three o’clock in the afternoon, the wind veering round to the -north-west, began to blow so strong, that we were brought under our -foresail and mizen stay-sail. We had very heavy squalls, and hard rain -during the next twenty-four hours; after which, the horizon clearing a -little, and the weather growing moderate, we were enabled to set the -topsails; but the wind still continuing to blow from the north-west, -baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us at last to -give up all further thoughts of discovery to the north of Japan. We -submitted to this disappointment with the greater reluctance, as the -accounts that are given of the inhabitants of these islands mentioned at -the end of the last chapter, had excited in us the greater curiosity to -visit them. - -In the afternoon the leach-rope of the Resolution’s fore-top-sail gave -way, and split the sail. As this accident had often happened to us in -Captain Cook’s life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the -top-sails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their stead; and as these -also proved unequal to the strain that was on them, it is evident that -the proper proportion of strength between those ropes and the sail, is -exceedingly miscalculated in our service. This day a land-bird perched -on the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a sparrow, but in -other respects very like one. - -The gale now abated gradually, so that in the morning of the 22d, we let -out the reefs of the top-sails, and made more sail. At noon, we were in -latitude 40° 58ʹ, and longitude 148° 17ʹ; the variation 3° E. In the -afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the ship, -and was so worn out with fatigue, that it suffered itself to be taken -immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a -wren, had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the rest of its -plumage like that of the linnet. The sparrow, being stronger, lived a -long time. These birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any -great distance from the land, and the wind, after varying a little, -fixing in the evening at north, our hopes of making the land, again -revived, and we hauled up to the west north-west, in which direction, -the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and said to be inhabited by -hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty leagues. But the wind not -keeping pace with our wishes, blew in such light airs, that we made -little way, till eight the next morning, when we had a fresh breeze from -the south south-west, with which we continued to steer west north-west -till the evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40° 35ʹ, longitude 146° -45ʹ; the latter deduced from several lunar observations taken during the -night. The variation of the needle we found to be 17ʹ E. In the evening, -we had strong squally gales attended with rain, and having passed in the -course of the day, several patches of green grass, and seen a shag, many -small land birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with -all these signs of the vicinity of land, to stand on during the whole -night. We therefore tacked at midnight, and steered a few hours to the -south-east, and at four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our -course to the west north-west, and carried a press of sail till seven in -the evening, when the wind shifted from south south-west to north, and -blew a fresh gale. At this time we were in the latitude of 40° 57ʹ, and -the longitude of 145° 20ʹ. - -This second disappointment, in our endeavours to get to the north-west, -together with the boisterous weather we had met with, and the little -likelihood, at this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to -our views, were Captain Gore’s motives for now finally giving up all -farther search for the islands to the north of Japan, and for shaping a -course west south-west, for the north part of that island. In the night, -the wind shifted to the north-east, and blew a fresh gale, with hard -rain and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th, brought us to the -latitude of 40° 18ʹ, in the longitude 144° 0ʹ. To-day we saw flights of -wild ducks; a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds like linnets -flew about us with a degree of vigour that seemed to prove they had not -been long upon the wing. We also passed patches of long grass, and a -piece either of sugar-cane or bamboo. These signs, that land was at no -great distance, induced us to try for soundings, but we found no ground -with ninety fathoms of line. Toward evening, the wind by degrees shifted -round to the south, with which we still kept on to the west south-west; -and at day-break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying high land -to the westward, which proved to be Japan. At eight it extended from -north-west to south by west, distant three or four leagues. A low flat -cape bore north-west three-quarters west, and seemed to make the south -part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the south extreme, a conical -shaped hill bore south by west three-quarters west. To the northward of -this hill there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the north side of the -entrance into which is formed by a low point of land; and, as well as we -could judge by our glasses, has a small island near it to the southward. - -We stood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, -bearing west three quarters south, and had soundings of fifty-eight -fathoms, with a bottom of very fine sand. We now tacked and stood off; -but the wind dying away, at noon we had got no farther than three -leagues from the coast, which extended from north-west by north three -quarters west, to south half east, and was, for the most part, bold and -cliffy. The low cape to the northward bore north-west by west, six -leagues distant; and the north point of the inlet south, three-quarters -west. The latitude, by observation, was 40° 5ʹ, and longitude 142° 28ʹ. -The northernmost land in sight we judged to be the northern extremity of -Japan.[71] It is lower than any other part; and, from the range of the -high lands that were seen over it from the mast-head, the coast appeared -evidently to incline round to the westward. The north point of the inlet -we supposed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be situated in a break of -the high land, toward which the inlet seemed to direct itself.[72] The -country is of a moderate height, consists of a double range of -mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleasing variety of hills and -dales. We saw the smoke of several towns or villages, and many houses -near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations. - -During the calm, being willing to make the best use of our time, we put -our fishing lines overboard in ten fathoms’ water, but without any -success. As this was the only amusement our circumstances admitted, the -disappointment was always very sensibly felt, and made us look back with -regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had -supplied us with so many wholesome meals, and, by the diversion they -afforded, had given a variety to the wearisome succession of gales and -calms, and the tedious repetition of the same nautical observations. At -two in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the southward, and by -four had brought us under close-reefed topsails, and obliged us to stand -off to the south-east. In consequence of this course, and the haziness -of the weather, the land soon disappeared. We kept on all night, and -till eight the next morning, when the wind coming round to the north, -and growing moderate, we made sail, and steered west south-west, toward -the land; but did not make it till three in the afternoon, when it -extended from north-west half west to west. The northernmost extreme -being a continuation of the high land, which was the southernmost we had -seen the day before; the land to the west we conceived to be the Hofe -Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Jansen. Between the two extremes, -the coast was low and scarcely perceptible, except from the mast-head. -We stood on toward the coast till eight, when we were about five leagues -distant; and having shortened sail for the night, steered to the -southward, sounding every four hours; but never found ground with one -hundred and sixty fathoms of line. - -On the 28th, at six in the morning, we again saw land twelve leagues to -the southward of that seen the preceding day, extending from west -south-west to west by north. We steered south-west obliquely with the -shore; and, at ten, saw more land open to the south-west. To the -westward of this land, which is low and flat, are two islands, as we -judged, though some doubts were entertained whether they might not be -connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather, joined to our -distance, prevented us also from determining whether there are any -inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which seem here to -promise good shelter. At noon, the north extreme bore north-west by -north, and a high-peaked hill, over a steep head-land, west by north, -distant five leagues. Our latitude at this time, by observation, was 38° -16ʹ, longitude 142° 9ʹ. The mean of the variation, from observations -taken both in the fore and afternoon, was 1° 20ʹ E. - -At half past three in the afternoon, we lost sight of the land; and, -from its breaking off so suddenly, conjectured that what we had seen -this day is an island, or perhaps a cluster of islands, lying off the -main land of Japan; but as the islands, called by Jansen the Schildpads, -and by Mr. D’Anville Matsima, though laid down nearly in the same -situation, are not equal in extent to the land seen by us, we must leave -this point undecided. Having kept a south-west course during the -remaining part of the day, we found ourselves, at midnight, in seventy -fathoms’ water, over a bottom of fine dark brown sand. We therefore -hauled up to the eastward till morning, when we saw the land again, -about eleven leagues to the southward of that which we had seen the day -before; and at eight we were within six or seven miles of the shore, -having carried in regular soundings from sixty-five to twenty fathoms, -over coarse sand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze over the land, -which hindered our distinguishing small objects on it. The coast is -straight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a north and south direction. -Toward the sea the ground is low, but rises gradually into hills of a -moderate height, whose tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood. - -At nine o’clock, the wind shifting to the southward, and the sky -lowering, we tacked and stood off to the east, and soon after we saw a -vessel close in with the land, standing along the shore to the -northward, and another in the offing, coming down on us before the wind. -Objects of any kind belonging to a country so famous, and yet so little -known, it will be easily conceived, must have excited a general -curiosity; and, accordingly, every soul on board was upon deck in an -instant to gaze at them. As the vessel to windward approached us, she -hauled farther off shore; upon which, fearing that we should alarm them -by the appearance of a pursuit, we brought the ships to, and she passed -ahead of us, at the distance of about half a mile. It would have been -easy for us to have spoken with them; but perceiving, by their -manœuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain Gore was not willing -to augment their terrors; and, thinking that we should have many better -opportunities of communication with this people, suffered them to go off -without interruption. Our distance did not permit us to remark any -particulars regarding the men on board, who seemed to be about six in -number, especially as the haziness of the weather precluded the use of -our glasses. According to the best conjectures we were able to form, the -vessel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mast, on which was -hoisted a square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which -worked forward. Half way down the sail came three pieces of black cloth -at equal distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end -than in the midship; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that -it was impossible for her to sail any otherwise than large. - -At noon the wind freshened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by -three it had increased so much, that we were reduced to our courses; at -the same time, the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered -to have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Kæmpfer describes them, -open in the stern, it would not have been possible for those we saw to -have survived the fury of this storm; but as the appearance of the -weather all the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one -of the sloops had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, we may safely -conclude that they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. -Spanberg indeed describes two kinds of Japanese vessels; one answering -to the above description of Kæmpfer; the other, which he calls busses, -and in which he says they make their voyages to the neighbouring -islands, exactly corresponds with those we saw.[73] - -At eight in the evening, the gale shifted to the west without abating -the least in violence, and by raising a sudden swell in a contrary -direction to that which prevailed before, occasioned the ships to strain -and labour exceedingly. During the storm several of the sails were split -on board the Resolution. Indeed they had been so long bent, and were -worn so thin, that this accident had of late happened to us almost daily -in both ships; especially, when being stiff and heavy with the rain, -they became less able to bear the shocks of the violent and variable -winds we at this time experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, -and settling to the west, we kept upon a wind to the southward; and at -nine in the morning of the 30th we saw the land at the distance of about -fifteen leagues, bearing from west by north to north-west one quarter -west. It appeared in detached parts; but whether they were small islands -or parts of Japan, our distance did not enable us to determine. At noon -it extended from north-west to west, the nearest land being about -thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to run in a -westerly direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36° 41ʹ, longitude -142° 6ʹ. The point to the northward, which was supposed to be near the -southernmost land seen the day before, we conjectured to be Cape de -Kennis, and the break to the southward of this point, to be the mouth of -the river on which the town of Gissima is said to be situated. The next -cape is probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje’s Point, and -the southernmost, off which we were abreast at noon, we suppose to be -near Low Point[74], and that we were at too great a distance to see the -low land, in which it probably terminates, to the eastward. - -In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the north-east, we stood to -the southward, at the distance of about eighteen leagues from the shore, -trying for soundings, as we went along, but finding none with one -hundred and fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning it shifted -to west, attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy squalls. -During the course of the day, we had several small birds of a brown -plumage, resembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off -the land by the strong westerly gales; but toward the evening, the wind -coming to the north-west, we shaped our course, along with them, to west -south-west, in order to regain the coast. In the morning of the 1st of -November, the wind again shifted to south-east, and bringing with it -fair weather, we got forty-two sets of distances of the moon from the -sun and stars, with four different quadrants, each set consisting of six -observations. These agreeing pretty nearly with each other, fix our -situation at noon the same day, with great accuracy, in longitude 141° -32ʹ, the latitude, by observation, was 35° 17ʹ. We found an error of -latitude in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles, and in -this day’s of seventeen, from whence, and from our being much more to -the eastward than we expected, we concluded that there had been a strong -current from the south-west. - -At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the westward, at the -distant of about twelve leagues; the southernmost land in sight, which -we supposed to be White Point[75], bore west south-west half west; a -hummock to the northward, which had the appearance of being an island, -bore north north-west half west, within which we saw from the mast-head -low land, which we took to be Sand-down Point.[76] We stood in toward -the land, till half past five, when we hauled our wind to the southward. -At this time we saw a number of Japanese vessels, close in with the -land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and others standing along -shore. We now discovered to the westward a remarkably high mountain, -with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high ground near it, -the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could judge, -from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets. But to -the southward of the hummock island before mentioned, there appeared, at -a great distance, within the country, a ridge of hills, stretching in a -direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is -the most remarkable hill on the coast, we could have wished to have -settled its situation exactly; but having only had this single view, -were obliged to be contented with such accuracy as our circumstances -would allow. Its latitude, therefore, we conceive to be 35° 20ʹ; its -longitude, estimated by its distance from the ships, at this time -fifteen leagues, 140° 26ʹ. - -As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to -the south-west of White Point, at eight we tacked, and stood off to the -eastward, in order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to -the south-west, expecting to fall in with the coast to the southward, -but were surprized, in the morning at eight to see the hummock, at the -distance only of three leagues, bearing west north-west. We began at -first to doubt the evidence of our senses, and afterward to suspect some -deception from a similarity of land; but, at noon, we found ourselves, -by observation, to be actually in latitude 35° 43ʹ, at a time when our -reckonings gave us 34° 48ʹ. So that, during the eight hours in which we -supposed we had made a course of nine leagues to the south-west, we had -in reality been carried eight leagues from the position we left, in a -direction diametrically opposite; which made, on the whole, in that -short space of time, a difference, in our reckoning, of seventeen -leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had set to the -north-east by north, at the rate of at least five miles an hour. Our -longitude at this time was 141° 16ʹ. - -The weather having now the same threatening appearance as on the 29th of -October, which was followed by so sudden and severe a gale, and the wind -continuing at south south-east, it was thought prudent to leave the -shore, and stand off to the eastward, to prevent our being entangled -with the land. Nor were we wrong in our prognostications; for it soon -afterward began, and continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, -accompanied with hazy and rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we -found ourselves, by our reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the -land; which circumstance, together with the very extraordinary effect of -currents we had before experienced, the late season of the year, the -unsettled state of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change -for the better, made Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and -prosecute our voyage to China; hoping, that as the track he meant to -pursue had never yet been explored, he should be able to make amends, by -some new discovery, for the disappointments we had met with on this -coast. - -If the reader should be of opinion that we quitted this object too -hastily, in addition to the facts already stated, it ought to be -remarked, Kæmpfer describes the coast of Japan as the most dangerous in -the whole world[77]; that it would have been equally dangerous, in case -of distress, to run into any of their harbours, where we know, from the -best authorities, that the aversion of the inhabitants to any -intercourse with strangers has led them to commit the most atrocious -barbarities; that our ships were in a leaky condition; that our sails -were worn out, and unable to withstand a gale of wind; and that the -rigging was so rotten as to require constant and perpetual repairs. - -As the strong currents which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may -be of dangerous consequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their -extraordinary rapidity, I shall take leave of this island, with a -summary account of their force and direction, as observed by us from the -1st to the 8th of November. On the 1st, at which time we were about -eighteen leagues to the eastward of White Point, the current set -north-east and by north, at the rate of three miles an hour; on the 2d, -as we approached the shore, we found it continuing in the same -direction, but increased in its rapidity to five miles an hour; as we -left the shore, it again became more moderate and inclined to the -eastward; on the 3d, at the distance of sixty leagues, it set to the -east north-east, three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to -the southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its -direction was south-east, and its rate not more than a mile and a half -an hour: on the 6th and 7th, it again shifted round to the north-east, -its force gradually diminishing till the 8th; when we could no longer -perceive any at all. - -During the 4th and 5th, we continued our course to the south-east, -having very unsettled weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On -both days we passed great quantities of pumice-stone, several pieces of -which we took up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We -conjectured that these stones had been thrown into the sea, by eruptions -of various dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and -others quite bare. At the same time, we saw two wild ducks, and several -small land birds, and had many porpusses playing round us. - -On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our course to the south-south-west; -but at eight in the evening we were taken back, and obliged to steer to -the south-east. On the 7th, at noon, we saw a small land bird, our -latitude, by observation at this time, being 33° 52ʹ and longitude 148° -42ʹ. On the 9th, we were in latitude 31° 46ʹ, longitude 146° 20ʹ, when -we again saw a small land bird, a tropic bird, porpusses, flying-fishes, -and had a great swell from the east-south-east. We continued our course -to the south-west, having the winds from the northward, without any -remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when we had a most violent gale of -wind from the same quarter, which reduced us to the fore-sail, and -mizen-stay-sail; and, as the weather was so hazy that we were not able -to see a cable’s length before us, and many shoals and small islands are -laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we brought-to, with -our heads to the south-west. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 27° -36ʹ, longitude 144° 25ʹ. In the morning of the 13th, the wind shifting -round to the north-west, brought with it fair weather; but though we -were at this time nearly in the situation given to the island of St. -Juan, we saw no appearance of land. We now bore away to the south-west, -and set the top-sails, the gale still continuing with great violence. At -noon, the latitude, by observation, was 26° 0ʹ, longitude 143° 40ʹ, and -variation 3° 50ʹ E. In the afternoon, we saw flying-fish and dolphins, -also tropic birds and albatrosses. We still continued to pass much -pumice-stone; indeed, the prodigious quantities of this substance which -float in the sea, between Japan and the Bashee Islands, seem to -indicate, that some great volcanic convulsion must have happened in this -part of the Pacific Ocean; and, consequently, give some degree of -probability to the opinion of Mr. Muller, which I have already had -occasion to mention, respecting the separation of the continent of Jeso, -and the disappearance of Company’s Land, and Staten Island. - -At six in the afternoon we altered our course to the west-south-west, -Captain Gore judging it useless to steer any longer to the -south-south-west, as we were near the meridian of the Ladrones, or -Marianne Islands, and at no great distance from the track of the Manilla -ships. In the morning of the 14th, the weather became fine, and the -wind, which was moderate, gradually shifted to the north-east, and -proved to be the trade-wind. At ten, Mr. Trevenen, one of the young -gentlemen who came along with me into the Discovery, saw land, appearing -like a peaked mountain, and bearing south-west. At noon, the latitude, -by observation, was 24° 37ʹ, longitude 142° 2ʹ. The land, which we now -discovered to be an island, bore south-west half west, distant eight or -ten leagues; and at two in the afternoon, we saw another to the -west-north-west. This second island, when seen at a distance, has the -appearance of two; the south point consisting of a high conical hill, -joined by a narrow neck to the northern land, which is of a moderate -height. As this was evidently of greater extent than the island to the -south, we altered our course toward it. At four, it bore north-west by -west; but, not having day-light sufficient to examine the coast, we -stood upon our tacks during the night. - -On the 15th, at six in the morning, we bore away for the south point of -the larger island, at which time we discovered another high island, -bearing north three-quarters west, the south island being on the same -rhomb line, and the south point of the island ahead, west by north. At -nine, we were abreast, and within a mile of the middle island, but -Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without some danger -from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on his course to the -westward. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 24° 50ʹ, longitude -140° 56ʹ E. - -This island is about five miles long, in a north-north-east and -south-south-west direction. The south point is a high barren hill, -flattish at the top, and when seen from the west-south-west, presents an -evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or sand, for it was not easy -to distinguish of which its surface is composed, exhibited various -colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be sulphur, both from -its appearance to the eye, and the strong sulphureous smell which we -perceived, as we approached the point. Some of the officers on board the -Resolution, which passed nearer the land, thought they saw steams rising -from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain Gore gave it -the name of _Sulphur Island_. A low, narrow, neck of land connects this -hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into a -circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The -part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and has a green appearance; -but those to the north-east are very barren, and full of large detached -rocks, many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers -extend two miles and a half to the east, and two miles to the west, off -the middle part of the island, on which the sea broke with great -violence. - -The north and south islands appeared to us as single mountains, of a -considerable height; the former peaked, and of a conical shape; the -latter more square, and flat at the top. Sulphur Island we place in -latitude 24° 48ʹ, longitude 141° 12ʹ. The north island in latitude 25° -14ʹ, longitude 141° 10ʹ. The south island in latitude 24° 22ʹ, and -longitude 141° 20ʹ. The variation observed was 3° 30ʹ E. - -Captain Gore now directed his course to the west-south-west, for the -Bashee Islands, hoping to procure at them such a supply of refreshments -as would help to shorten his stay in Macao. These islands were visited -by Dampier, who gives a very favourable account, both of the civility of -the inhabitants, and of the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with which -the country abounds; they were afterward seen by Byron and Wallis, who -passed them without landing. - -In order to extend our view in the day-time, the ships spread between -two and three leagues from each other, and during the night we went -under an easy sail; so that it was scarcely possible to pass any land -that lay in the neighbourhood of our course. In this manner we -proceeded, without any occurrence worth remarking, with a fresh breeze -from the north-east, till the 22d, when it increased to a strong gale, -with violent squalls of wind and rain, which brought us under -close-reefed top-sails. - -At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 21° 5ʹ, and longitude -123° 20ʹ; at six in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from -the Bashee islands, according to the situation in Mr. Dalrymple’s map, -and the weather squally, attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind -to the north north-west, and handed the fore top-sail. - -During the whole of the 24th it rained incessantly, and the wind still -blew a storm; a heavy sea rolled down on us from the north, and in the -afternoon we had violent flashes of lightning from the same quarter. We -continued upon a wind to the north north-west till nine o’clock, when we -tacked and stood to the south south-east till four in the morning of the -25th, and then wore. During the night there was an eclipse of the moon, -but the rain prevented our making any observation; unfortunately, at the -time of the greatest darkness, a seaman, in stowing the main top-mast -stay-sail, fell over board, but laying hold of a rope which -providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains into the water, and -the ship being quickly brought in the wind, he was got on board without -any other hurt than a slight bruise on his shoulder. At eight, the -weather clearing, we bore away, but the wind blew still so strong, that -we carried no other sail than the fore-sail, and the main top-sail close -reefed. About this time we saw a land bird resembling a thrush, and a -sugar cane; at noon the latitude, by observation, was 21° 35ʹ, and -longitude 121° 35ʹ. - -As our situation in longitude was now to the west of the Bashee, -according to Mr. Dalrymple’s maps, I perceived that Captain Gore was -governed, in the course he was steering, by the opinions of Commodore -Byron and Captain Wallis, with whom he sailed when they passed these -islands. The former placing it near four degrees to the westward, or in -longitude 118° 14ʹ. In consequence of this opinion, at two we stood to -the southward, with a view of getting into the same parallel of latitude -with the islands before we ran down our longitude. At six we were nearly -in that situation, and consequently ought to have been in sight of land, -according to Mr. Wallis’s account, who places the Bashees near three -degrees more to the eastward than Mr. Byron. The gale at this time had -not in the least abated; and Captain Gore, still conceiving that the -islands must undoubtedly lie to the westward, brought the ships to, with -their heads to the north-west, under the fore-sail and balanced mizen. - -At six in the morning of the 26th, the wind having considerably abated, -we bore away west, set the topsails, and let out the reefs. At noon the -latitude, by observation, was 21° 12ʹ, and longitude 120° 25ʹ. We saw, -this day, a flock of ducks and many tropic birds, also dolphins and -porpusses, and still continued to pass several pumice-stones. We spent -the night upon our tacks; and at six in the morning of the 27th again -bore away west in search of the Bashees. - -I now began to be a little apprehensive, lest, in searching for those -islands, we should get so much to the southward as to be obliged to pass -to leeward of the Pratas. In this case it might have been exceedingly -difficult for such bad sailing ships as ours to fetch Macao, -particularly should the wind continue to blow as it now did, from the -north north-east and north. As I had some doubts whether Mr. Dalrymple’s -charts were on board the Resolution, I made sail and hailed her; and -having acquainted Captain Gore with the position of these shoals, and my -apprehensions of being driven to the southward, he informed me that he -should continue on his course for the day, as he was still in hopes of -finding Admiral Byron’s longitude right; and, therefore, ordered me to -spread a few miles to the south. - -At noon the weather became hazy; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21° 2ʹ, -and longitude 118° 30ʹ; and at six, having got to the westward of the -Bashees, by Mr. Byron’s account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the -north-west under an easy sail, the wind blowing very strong, and there -being every appearance of a dirty boisterous night. At four in the -morning of the 28th, we saw the Resolution, then half a mile ahead of -us, wear, and immediately perceived breakers close under our lee. At -day-light we saw the island of Prata; and at half past six we wore -again, and stood toward the shoal, and finding we could not weather it, -bore away and ran to leeward. As we passed the south side, within a mile -of the reef, we observed two remarkable patches on the edges of the -breakers that looked like wrecks. At noon, the latitude found by double -altitudes was 20° 39ʹ, longitude 116° 45ʹ. The island bore north three -quarters east, distant three or four leagues. On the south-west side of -the reef, and near the south end of the island, we thought we saw from -the mast-head openings in the reef, which promised safe anchorage. - -The Prata shoal is of a considerable extent, being six leagues from -north to south, and stretching three or four leagues to the eastward of -the island; its limit to the westward we were not in a situation to -determine. The north-east extremity we place in latitude 20° 58ʹ, and -longitude 117°; and the south-west in latitude 20° 45ʹ, and longitude -116° 44ʹ. - -For the remaining part of the day we carried a press of sail, and kept -the wind, which was north-east by north, in order to secure our passage -to Macao. It was fortunate that, toward evening, the wind favoured us by -changing two points more to the east; for, had the wind and weather -continued, the same as during the preceding week, I doubt whether we -could have fetched that port, in which case we must have borne away for -Batavia; a place we all dreaded exceedingly, from the sad havoc the -unhealthiness of the climate had made in the crews of the former ships -that had been out on discovery, and had touched there. - -In the forenoon of the 29th, we passed several Chinese fishing-boats, -who eyed us with great indifference. They fish with a large dredge-net, -shaped like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower -part of its mouth. The net is made fast with cords to the head and stern -of the boat, which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net -after it, with the iron part dragging along the bottom. We were sorry to -find the sea covered with the wrecks of boats that had been lost, as we -conjectured, in the late boisterous weather. At noon we were in -latitude, by observation, 22° 1ʹ, having run one hundred and ten miles -upon a north-west course since the preceding noon. Being now nearly in -the latitude of the Lema Islands, we bore away west by north, and, after -running twenty-two miles, saw one of them nine or ten leagues to the -westward. At six, the extremes of the islands in sight bore north -north-west half west, and west north-west half west; distant from the -nearest four or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, -over a soft muddy bottom. We now shortened sail, and kept upon our tacks -for the night. By Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the -Prata Island north 60° W. one hundred and fifty-three miles; and by our -run, north 57° W. one hundred and forty-six miles. - -In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Isles, which, like all -the other islands on this coast, are without wood, and, as far as we -could observe, without cultivation. At seven o’clock, we had precisely -the same view of these islands, as is represented in a plate of Lord -Anson’s voyage. At nine o’clock, a Chinese boat, which had been before -with the Resolution, came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a -pilot, which however we declined, as it was our business to follow our -consort. We soon after passed the rock marked R, in Lord Anson’s plate; -but, instead of hauling up to the northward of the grand Ladrone Island, -as was done in the Centurion, we proceeded to leeward. - -It is hardly necessary to caution the mariner not to take this course, -as the danger is sufficiently obvious; for, should the wind blow strong, -and the current set with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch -Macao. Indeed we might, with great safety, by the direction of Mr. -Dalrymple’s map, have gone either entirely to the north of the Lema -Isles, or between them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of -missing this port, and being forced to Batavia, added to the strong and -eager desires of hearing news from Europe, made us rejoice to see the -Resolution soon after fire a gun, and hoist her colours as a signal for -a pilot. On repeating the signal, we saw an excellent race between four -Chinese boats; and Captain Gore having engaged with the man who arrived -first, to carry the ship to the Typa for thirty dollars, sent me word, -that, as we could easily follow, that expence might be saved to us. Soon -after, a second pilot getting on board the Resolution, insisted on -conducting the ship, and, without further ceremony, laid hold of the -wheel, and began to order the sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a -violent dispute, which at last was compromised, by their agreeing to go -shares in the money. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 21° 57ʹ -N., and longitude 114° 2ʹ E.; the grand Ladrone Island extending from -north-west half north, to north half west, distant four miles. The land -of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be one island; but -afterward found the western part to be the island marked _z_ in Mr. -Dalrymple’s chart of part of the coast of China, &c. which, at that -time, we unfortunately had not on board. - -In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of -Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men -their journals, and what other papers they might have in their -possession, relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of -these orders seemed to require some delicacy, as well as firmness. I -could not be ignorant, that the greatest part of our officers, and -several of the seaman, had amused themselves with writing accounts of -our proceedings for their own private satisfaction, or that of their -friends, which they might be unwilling, in their present form, to have -submitted to the inspection of strangers. On the other hand, I could -not, consistently with the instructions we had received, leave in their -custody papers, which, either from carelessness or design, might fall -into the hands of printers, and give rise to spurious and imperfect -accounts of the voyage, to the discredit of our labours, and perhaps to -the prejudice of officers, who, though innocent, might be suspected of -having been the authors of such publications. As soon, therefore, as I -had assembled the ship’s company on deck, I acquainted them with the -orders we had received, and the reasons which I thought ought to induce -them to yield a ready obedience. At the same time, I told them, that any -papers which they were desirous not to have sent to the Admiralty, -should be sealed up in their presence, and kept in my own custody, till -the intentions of the Board, with regard to the publication of the -history of the voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they should -faithfully be restored back to them. - -It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate, that my proposals met -with the approbation and the cheerful compliance both of the officers -and men; and I am persuaded, that every scrap of paper, containing any -transactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed it is doing -bare justice to the seaman of this ship to declare, that they were the -most obedient, and the best disposed men I ever knew, though almost all -of them were very young, and had never before served in a ship of war. - - - - - CHAP. IX. - -WORKING UP TO MACAO.—A CHINESE COMPRADOR.—SENT ON SHORE TO VISIT THE - PORTUGUEZE GOVERNOR.—EFFECTS OF THE INTELLIGENCE WE RECEIVED FROM - EUROPE.—ANCHOR IN THE TYPA.—PASSAGE UP TO CANTON.—BOCCA TYGRIS.— - WAMPÛ.—DESCRIPTION OF A SAMPANE.—RECEPTION AT THE ENGLISH FACTORY.— - INSTANCE OF THE SUSPICIOUS CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE.—OF THEIR MODE OF - TRADING.—OF THE CITY OF CANTON.—ITS SIZE.—POPULATION.—NUMBER OF - SAMPANES.—MILITARY FORCE.—OF THE STREETS AND HOUSES.—VISIT TO A - CHINESE.—RETURN TO MACAO.—GREAT DEMAND FOR THE SEA-OTTER SKINS.—PLAN - OF A VOYAGE FOR OPENING A FUR TRADE ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AMERICA, - AND PROSECUTING FURTHER DISCOVERIES IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JAPAN.— - DEPARTURE FROM MACAO.—PRICE OF PROVISIONS IN CHINA. - - -We kept working to windward till six in the evening, when we came to -anchor, by the direction of the Chinese pilot on board the Resolution, -who imagined the tide was setting against us. In this, however, he was -much deceived; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it set to -the northward till ten o’clock. The next morning he fell into a similar -mistake; for, at five, on the appearance of slack water, he gave orders -to get under weigh; but the ignorance he had discovered, having put us -on our guard, we chose to be convinced, by our own observations, before -we weighed; and, on trying the tide, we found a strong under-tow, which -obliged us to keep fast till eleven o’clock. From these circumstances it -appears, that the tide had run down twelve hours. - -During the afternoon, we kept standing on our tacks, between the island -of Potoe, and the grand Ladrone, having passed to the eastward of the -former. At nine o’clock the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to -anchor in six fathoms’ water; the town of Macao bearing north west, -three leagues distant, and the island of Potoe south half-west, two -leagues distant. This island lies two leagues to the north north-west of -the island marked Z in Mr. Dalrymple’s chart, which we at first took to -be part of the grand Ladrone. It is small and rocky; and off the west -end there is said to be foul ground, though we passed near it without -perceiving any. - -In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinese contractors, who are -called _Compradors_, went on board the Resolution, and sold to Captain -Gore two hundred pounds’ weight of beef, together with a considerable -quantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable share of these -articles was sent to the Discovery; and an agreement made with the man -to furnish us with a daily supply, for which, however, he insisted on -being paid beforehand. - -Our pilot pretending he could carry the ships no farther, Captain Gore -was obliged to discharge him, and we were left to our own guidance. - -At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to -windward; and at seven anchored in three and a half fathoms of water, -Macao bearing west, three miles distant. This situation was, indeed, -very ineligible, being exposed to the north-east, and having shoal -water, not more than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward; but as no -nautical description is given in Lord Anson’s voyage of the harbour in -which the Centurion anchored, and Mr. Dalrymple’s general map, which was -the only one on board, was on too small a scale to serve for our -direction, the ships were obliged to remain there all night. - -In the evening, Captain Gore sent me on shore to visit the Portugueze -governor, and to request his assistance in procuring refreshments for -our crews, which he thought might be done on more reasonable terms than -the _Comprador_ would undertake to furnish them. At the same time I took -a list of the naval stores, of which both vessels were greatly in want, -with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to -the servants of the East India Company, who were at that time, resident -there. On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me that the -governor was sick, and not able to see company; but that we might be -assured of receiving every assistance in their power. This, however, I -understood would be very inconsiderable, as they were entirely dependent -on the Chinese, even for their daily subsistence. Indeed, the answer -returned to the first request I made, gave me a sufficient proof of the -fallen state of the Portugueze power; for, on my acquainting the Major -with my desire of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that -they could not venture to furnish me with a boat, till leave was -obtained from the _Hoppo_, or officer of the customs; and that the -application for this purpose must be made to the Chinese government at -Canton. - -The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could -only be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had so long -waited for an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It -often happens, that, in the eager pursuit of an object, we overlook the -easiest and most obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my -case at present; for I was returning under great dejection to the ship, -when the Portugueze officer, who attended me asked me, if I did not mean -to visit the English gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what -transport I received the information this question conveyed to me; nor -the anxious hopes and fears, the conflict between curiosity and -apprehension which passed in my mind, as we walked toward the house of -one of our countrymen. - -In this state of agitation, it was not surprising, that our reception, -though no way deficient in civility or kindness, should appear cold and -formal. In our inquiries, as far as they related to objects of private -concern, we met, as was indeed to be expected, with little or no -satisfaction; but the events of a public nature, which had happened -since our departure, and now, for the first time, burst all at once upon -us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us for some time, almost -without the power of reflection. For several days we continued -questioning each other about the truth of what we had heard, as if -desirous of seeking, in doubt and suspense, for that relief and -consolation, which the reality of our calamities appeared totally to -exclude. These sensations were succeeded by the most poignant regret at -finding ourselves cut off at such a distance from the scene, where, we -imagined, the fate of fleets and armies was every moment deciding. - -The intelligence we had just received of the state of affairs in Europe, -made us the more exceedingly anxious to hasten our departure as much as -possible; and I therefore renewed my attempt to procure a passage to -Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arising from the established -policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increased -by an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain -Panton, in the Seahorse, a ship of war of twenty-five guns, had been -sent from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinese -merchants of Canton to private British subjects in the East Indies and -Europe, which, including the principal and compound interest, amounted, -I understood, to near a million sterling. For this purpose, he had -orders to insist on an audience with the viceroy of Canton, which, after -some delay, and not without recourse being had to threats, was at length -obtained. The answer he received on the subject of his mission, was fair -and satisfactory; but, immediately after his departure, an edict was -stuck up on the houses of the Europeans, and in the public places of the -city, forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the -subjects of the emperor. - -This measure had occasioned very serious alarms at Canton. The Chinese -merchants, who had incurred the debt, contrary to the commercial laws of -their own country, and denied, in part, the justice of the demand, were -afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pekin, and that the -emperor, who has the character of a just and rigid prince, might punish -them with the loss of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the -other hand, the Select Committee, to whom the cause of the claimants was -strongly recommended by the Presidency of Madras, were extremely -apprehensive lest they should embroil themselves with the Chinese -government at Canton; and by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable -mischief on the Company’s affairs in China. For I was further informed, -that the _Mandarines_ were always ready to take occasion, even on the -slightest grounds, to put a stop to their trading; and that it was often -with great difficulty, and never without certain expence, that they -could get such restraints taken off. These impositions were daily -increasing; and, indeed, I found it a prevailing opinion, in all the -European factories, that they should soon be reduced either to quit the -commerce of that country, or to bear the same indignities to which the -Dutch are subjected in Japan. - -The arrival of the Resolution and Discovery at such a time, could not -fail of occasioning fresh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no -probability of my proceeding to Canton, I dispatched a letter to the -English supercargoes, to acquaint them with the cause of our putting -into the Tygris, to request their assistance in procuring me a passport, -and in forwarding the stores we wanted, of which I sent them a list, as -expeditiously as possible. - -The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who -pointing out to us the situation of the Typa, we weighed at half past -six, and stood toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in -three and a half fathoms’ water; Macao, bearing west north-west, three -miles distant; the Grand Ladrone south-east by south. The Resolution -here saluted the Portugueze fort with eleven guns, which were returned -by the same number. Early on the 4th, we again weighed, and stood into -the Typa, and moored with the stream anchor and cable to the westward. - -The _Comprador_ whom we at first engaged with, having disappeared with a -small sum of money, which had been given him to purchase provisions, we -contracted with another, who continued to supply both ships, during our -whole stay. This was done secretly, and in the night time, under -pretence that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we -suspected all this caution to have been used with a view either of -enhancing the price of the articles he furnished, or of securing to -himself the profits of his employment, without being obliged to share -them with the _Mandarines_. - -On the 9th Captain Gore received an answer from the Committee of the -English supercargoes at Canton, in which they assured him that their -best endeavours should be used to procure the supplies we stood in need -of, as expeditiously as possible; and that a passport should be sent for -one of his officers, hoping at the same time, that we were sufficiently -acquainted with the character of the Chinese government, to attribute -any delays, that might unavoidably happen, to their true cause. - -The day following, an English merchant, from one of our settlements in -the East Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the assistance of a few -hands to navigate a vessel he had purchased at Macao, up to Canton. -Captain Gore, judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that -place, gave orders that I should take along with me my second -lieutenant, the lieutenant of marines, and ten seamen. Though this was -not precisely the mode in which I could have wished to visit Canton, yet -as it was very uncertain when the passport might arrive, and my presence -might contribute materially to the expediting of our supplies, I did not -hesitate to put myself on board, having left orders with Mr. Williamson -to get the Discovery ready for sea as soon as possible, and to make such -additions and alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to -make her more defensible. That the series of our astronomical -observations might suffer no interruption by my absence, I entrusted the -care of continuing them to Mr. Trevenen, in whose abilities and -diligence I could repose an entire confidence. - -We left the harbour of Macao on the 11th of December, and sailing round -the south-eastern extremity of the island, we steered to the northward, -leaving as we passed along, Lantao Lintin, and several smaller islands, -to the right. All these islands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to -the left, are entirely without wood; the land is high and barren, and -uninhabited, except occasionally by fishermen. As we approached the -Bocca Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinese coast -appears to the eastward in steep white cliffs; the two forts commanding -the mouth of the river, are exactly in the same state as when Lord Anson -was here; that on the left is a fine old castle, surrounded by a grove -of trees, and has an agreeable romantic appearance. - -We were here visited by an officer of the customs; on which occasion the -owner of the vessel, being apprehensive that, if we were discovered on -board, it would occasion some alarm, and might be attended with -disagreeable consequences, begged us to retire into the cabin below. - -The breadth of the river above these forts is variable, the banks being -low and flat, and subject to be overflowed by the tide to a great -extent. The ground on each side is level, and laid out in rice fields; -but, as we advanced, it rose gradually into hills of considerable -declivity, the sides of which are cut into terraces, and planted with -sweet potatoes, sugar-canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We -saw many lofty _pagodas_, scattered over the country, and several towns -at a distance, some of which appeared to be of a considerable size. - -We did not arrive at Wampû, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca -Tygris, till the 18th, our progress having been retarded by contrary -winds and the lightness of the vessel. Wampû is a small Chinese town, -off which the ships of the different nations who trade here lie, in -order to take in their lading. The river, higher up, is said by M. -Sonnerat not to be deep enough to admit heavy laden vessels, even if the -policy of the Chinese had suffered the Europeans to navigate them up to -Canton; but this circumstance I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no -stranger I believe has been permitted to inform himself with certainty -of the truth. The small islands that lie opposite to the town, are -allotted to the several factories who have built warehouses for the -reception of the merchandise that is brought down from Canton. - -From Wampû I immediately proceeded in a _sampane_, or Chinese boat, to -Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. These -boats are the neatest and most convenient for passengers I ever saw. -They are of various sizes, almost flat at the bottom, very broad upon -the beam, and narrow at the head and stern, which are raised and -ornamented; the middle, where we sat, was arched over with a roof of -bamboo, which may be raised or lowered at pleasure; in the sides were -small windows with shutters, and the apartment was furnished with -handsome mats, chairs, and tables. In the stern was placed a small waxen -idol, in a case of gilt leather, before which stood a pot containing -lighted tapers made of dry chips or matches, and gum. The hire of this -boat was a Spanish dollar. - -I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the English -factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received -with every mark of attention and civility. The select committee, at this -time, consisted of Mr. Fitzhugh the president, Mr. Bevan, and Mr. -Rapier. They immediately gave me an account of such stores as the India -ships were able to afford us; and though I have not the smallest doubt -that the commanders were desirous of assisting us with every thing they -could spare, consistently with a regard to their own safety, and the -interest of their employers, yet it was a great disappointment to me to -find in their list scarcely any articles of cordage or canvass, of both -which we stood principally in need. It was, however, some consolation to -understand that the stores were in readiness for shipping, and that the -provisions we required might be had at a day’s notice. Wishing therefore -to make my stay here as short as possible, I requested the gentlemen to -procure junks or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving -Canton the following one; but I was soon informed that a business of -that kind was not to be transacted so rapidly in this country; that -leave must be first procured from the viceroy; that the _Hoppo_, or -principal officer of the customs must be applied to for _chops_ or -permits; and that these favours were not granted without mature -deliberation; in short, that patience was an indispensable virtue in -China; and that they hoped to have the pleasure of making the factory -agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I seemed willing to favour -them with my company. - -Though I was not much disposed to relish this compliment, yet I could -not help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely -to convince me of the truth of their representations, and of the -suspicious character of the Chinese. The reader will recollect that it -was now about fifteen days since Captain Gore had written to the -factory, to desire their assistance in procuring leave for one of his -officers to pass to Canton. In consequence of this application, they had -engaged one of the principal Chinese merchants of the place, to interest -himself in our favour, and to solicit the business with the viceroy. -This person came to visit the president whilst we were talking on the -subject, and with great satisfaction and complacency in his countenance -acquainted him, that he had at last succeeded in his applications, and -that a passport for one of the officers of the Ladrone ship (or pirate) -would be ready in a few days. The president immediately told him not to -give himself any farther trouble, as the officer, pointing to me, was -already arrived. It is impossible to describe the terror which seized -the old man on hearing this intelligence. His head sunk upon his breast, -and the sofa on which he was sitting shook from the violence of his -agitation. Whether the Ladrone ship was the object of his apprehensions, -or his own government, I could not discover; but after continuing in -this deplorable state a few minutes, Mr. Bevan bade him not despair, and -recounted to him the manner in which I had passed from Macao, the -reasons of my journey to Canton, and my wishes to leave it as soon as -possible. This last circumstance seemed particularly agreeable to him, -and gave me hopes that I should find him equally disposed to hasten my -departure; and yet, as soon as he had recovered the courage to speak, he -began to recount the unavoidable delays that would occur in my business, -the difficulty of gaining admittance to the viceroy, the jealousies and -suspicions of the _Mandarines_ respecting our real designs, which had -risen, he said, to an extraordinary height, from the strange account we -had given of ourselves. - -After waiting several days with great impatience for the event of our -application, without understanding that the matter was at all advanced -toward a conclusion, I applied to the commander of an English country -ship, who was to sail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and -stores on board, and to lie to if the weather should permit, off Macao, -till we could send boats to take them out of his ship. At the same time -he apprized me of the danger there might be of his being driven with -them out to sea. Whilst I was doubting what measures to pursue, the -commander of another country ship brought me a letter from Captain Gore, -in which he acquainted me that he had engaged him to bring us down from -Canton, and to deliver the stores we had procured, at his own risk, in -the Typa. All our difficulties being thus removed, I had leisure to -attend to the purchase of our provisions and stores, which was completed -on the 26th; and the day following the whole stock was sent on board. - -As Canton was likely to be the most advantageous market for furs, I was -desired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty sea-otter skins, -chiefly the property of our deceased commanders, and to dispose of them -at the best price I could procure; a commission which gave me an -opportunity of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the -Chinese for trade. Having acquainted some of the English supercargoes -with these circumstances, I desired them to recommend me to some Chinese -merchant of credit and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and -reasonable price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the _Hong_, -a society of the principal merchants of the place, who being fully -informed of the nature of the business, appeared sensible of the -delicacy of my situation; assured me I might depend on his integrity; -and that, in a case of this sort, he should consider himself merely as -an agent, without looking for any profit to himself. Having laid my -goods before him, he examined them with great care over and over again, -and at last told me that he could not venture to offer more than three -hundred dollars for them. As I knew from the price our skins had sold -for in Kamtschatka that he had not offered me one half their value, I -found myself under the necessity of driving a bargain, in my turn I -therefore demanded one thousand; my Chinese then advanced to five -hundred; then offered me a private present of tea and porcelain, -amounting to one hundred more; then the same sum in money; and, lastly, -rose to seven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine hundred. Here, -each side declaring he would not recede, we parted; but the Chinese soon -returned with a list of India goods, which he now proposed I should take -in exchange, and which, I was afterward told, would have amounted in -value, if honestly delivered, to double the sum he had before offered. -Finding I did not choose to deal in this mode, he proposed as his -_ultimatum_, that we should divide the difference, which, being tired of -the contest, I consented to, and received the eight hundred dollars. - -The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little -reason to lament the very narrow limits, within which the policy of the -Chinese obliges every European at Canton to confine his curiosity. I -should otherwise have felt exceedingly tantalized with living under the -walls of so great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able -to enter it. The account given of this place by Pères le Comte and Du -Halde, are in every one’s hand. The authors have lately been accused of -great exaggeration by M. Sonnerat; for which reason the following -observations, collected from the information with which I have been -obligingly furnished by several English gentlemen, who were a long time -resident at Canton, may not be unacceptable to the public. - -Canton, including the old and new town, and the suburbs, is about ten -miles in circuit. With respect to its population, if one may judge of -the whole, from what is seen in the suburbs, I should conceive it to -fall considerably short of an European town of the same magnitude. Le -Comte estimated the number of inhabitants at one million five hundred -thousand; Du Halde at one million; and M. Sonnerat says he has -ascertained them to be no more than seventy-five thousand[78]: but, as -this gentleman has not favoured us with the grounds on which his -calculation was founded; and, besides, appears as desirous of -depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinese, as the Jesuits may -be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of some doubt. The -following circumstances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment -with tolerable accuracy on this subject. - -A Chinese house undoubtedly occupies more space than is usually taken up -by houses in Europe; but the proportion suggested by M. Sonnerat, of -four or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this -should be added, that a great many houses in the suburbs of Canton, are -occupied for commercial purposes only, by merchants and rich tradesmen, -whose families live entirely within the city. On the other hand, a -Chinese family appears to consist, on an average, of more persons than -an European. A _Mandarine_, according to his rank and substance, has -from five to twenty wives. A merchant, from three to five. One of this -class at Canton, had indeed, twenty-five wives, and thirty-six children; -but this was mentioned to me as a very extraordinary instance. An -opulent tradesman has usually two; and the lower class of people very -rarely more than one. Their servants are at least double in number to -those employed by persons of the same condition in Europe. If, then, we -suppose a Chinese family one-third larger, and an European house -two-thirds less, than each other, a Chinese city will contain only half -the number of inhabitants contained in an European town of the same -size. According to these _data_, the city and suburbs of Canton may -probably contain about one hundred and fifty thousand. - -With respect to the number of inhabited _sampanes_, I found different -opinions were entertained; but none placing them lower than forty -thousand. They are moored in rows close to each other, with a narrow -passage, at intervals, for the boats to pass up and down the river. As -the Tygris at Canton is somewhat wider than the Thames at London, and -the whole river is covered in this manner for the extent of at least a -mile, this account of their number does not appear to me, in the least, -exaggerated; and, if it be allowed, the number of inhabitants in the -sampanes alone (for each of them contains one family), must amount to -nearly three times the number supposed by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole -city. - -The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, -amounts to fifty thousand men. It is said that twenty thousand are -stationed in and about the city; and, as a proof of this, I was assured, -that, on the occasion of some disturbance that had happened at Canton, -thirty thousand men were drawn together within the space of a few hours. - -The streets are long, and most of them narrow and irregular; but well -paved with large stones; and, for the most part, kept exceedingly clean. -The houses are built of brick, one story high, having generally two or -three courts backward, in which are the warehouses for merchandize, and, -in the houses within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few -of the meanest sort are built of wood. - -The houses belonging to the European factors, are built on a handsome -quay, with a regular façade of two stories toward the river, and -disposed, within, partly after the European and partly after the Chinese -manner. Adjoining to these are a number of houses, belonging to the -Chinese, and hired out to the commanders of ships, and merchants, who -make an occasional stay. As no European is allowed to bring his wife to -Canton, the English supercargoes live together, at a common table, which -is kept by the company, and have each a separate apartment, consisting -of three or four rooms. The time of their residence seldom exceeds eight -months annually; and as they are pretty constantly employed, during that -time, in the service of the Company, they may submit, with the less -regret, to the restraints they are kept under. They very rarely pay any -visits within the walls of Canton, except on public occasions. Indeed, -nothing gave me so unfavourable an idea of the character of the Chinese, -as to find, that amongst so many persons of liberal minds and amiable -manners, some of whom have resided in that country for near fifteen -years together, they have never formed any friendship or social -connection. As soon as the last ship quits Wampû, they are all obliged -to retire to Macao; but as a proof of the excellent police of the -country, they leave all the money they possess in _specie_ behind them, -which, I was told, sometimes amounted to one hundred thousand pounds -sterling, and for which they had no other security than the seals of the -merchants of the _Hong_, the viceroy, and _Mandarines_. - -During my stay at Canton, I was carried by one of the English gentlemen, -to visit a person of the first consequence in the place. We were -received in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which stood a -table, with a large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from -it on each side down the room. Being previously instructed, that the -point of civility consisted in remaining as long unseated as possible, I -readily acquitted myself of this piece of _etiquette_; after which we -were entertained with tea, and some preserved and fresh fruits. Our host -was very fat, with a heavy dull countenance, and of great gravity in his -deportment. He spoke a little broken English and Portugueze; and, after -we had taken our refreshment, he carried us about his house and garden; -and having shown us all the improvements he was making, we took our -leave. - -Having procured an account of the price of provisions at Canton, as -settled for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this -chapter, I have only to observe, that the different articles are -supposed to be the best of the kind; and that the natives purchase the -same for nearly one-third less than the price, which in the list is -fixed only for strangers. - -I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of -applying for passports, as to save the unnecessary expence of hiring a -_sampane_, which I understood amounted at least to twelve pounds -sterling, to go along with the stores to Macao, in the country -merchant’s ship I have before mentioned; but having received an -invitation from two English gentlemen, who had obtained passports for -four, I accepted, along with Mr. Philips, their offer of places in a -Chinese boat, and left Mr. Lannyon to take care of the men and stores, -which were to sail the next day. In the evening of the 26th, I took my -leave of the supercargoes, having thanked them for their many obliging -favours; amongst which I must not forget to mention an handsome present -of tea, for the use of the ships’ companies, and a large collection of -English periodical publications. The latter we found a valuable -acquisition, as they both served to amuse our impatience, during our -tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total strangers to -what had been transacting in our native country. At one o’clock the next -morning we left Canton, and arrived at Macao about the same hour the day -following, having passed down a channel which lies to the westward of -that by which we had come up. - -During our absence, a brisk trade had been carrying on with the Chinese -for the sea-otter skins, which had every day been rising in their value. -One of our seamen sold his stock alone for eight hundred dollars; and a -few prime skins, which were clean, and had been well preserved, were -sold for one hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in -_specie_ and goods, that was got for the furs, in both ships, I am -confident did not fall short of two thousand pounds sterling; and it was -generally supposed, that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had -originally got from the Americans, were spoiled and worn out, or had -been given away, and otherwise disposed of, in Kamtschatka. When, in -addition to these facts, it is remembered, that the furs were at first -collected without our having any idea of their real value; that the -greatest part had been worn by the Indians, from whom we purchased them; -that they were afterward preserved with little care, and frequently used -for bed-clothes, and other purposes, during our cruize to the north; and -that, probably, we had never got the full value for them in China; the -advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the -American coast, undertaken with commercial views, appear to me of a -degree of importance sufficient to call for the attention of the public. - -The rage with which our seamen were possessed to return to Cook’s River, -and, by another cargo of skins, to make their fortunes at one time, was -not far short of mutiny; and I must own, I could not help indulging -myself in a project, which the disappointment we had suffered, in being -obliged to leave the Japanese Archipelago, and the northern coast of -China unexplored, first suggested; and, by what I conceived, that object -might still be happily accomplished, through means of the East-India -Company, not only without expense, but even with the prospect of very -considerable advantages. Though the situation of affairs at home, or -perhaps greater difficulties in the execution of my scheme than I had -foreseen, have hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as -I find the plan in my journal, and still retain my partiality for it, I -hope it will not be entirely foreign to the nature of this work, if I -beg leave to insert it here. - -I proposed then, that the Company’s China ships should carry an -additional complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two -vessels, one of two hundred and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, -might, I was told, with proper notice, be readily purchased at Canton; -and, as victualling is not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate that -they might be completely fitted out for sea, with a year’s pay and -provision, for six thousand pounds, including the purchase. The expense -of the necessary articles for barter is scarcely worth mentioning. I -would, by all means recommend, that each ship should have five ton of -unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert smith, with a journeyman and -apprentice, who might be ready to forge such tools, as it should appear -the Indians were most desirous of. For, though six of the finest skins -purchased by us were got for a dozen large green glass beads, yet it is -well known, that the fancy of these people for articles of ornament, is -exceedingly capricious; and that iron is the only sure commodity for -their market. To this might be added, a few gross of large pointed -case-knives, some bales of coarse woollen cloth (linen they would not -accept of from us), and a barrel or two of copper and glass trinkets. - -I have here proposed two ships, not only for the greater security of the -expedition, but because I think single ships ought never to be sent out -on discoveries. For where risks are to be run, and doubtful and -hazardous experiments tried, it cannot be expected that single ships -should venture so far, as where there is some security provided against -an untoward accident. - -The vessels being now ready for sea, will sail with the first -south-westerly monsoon, which generally sets in about the beginning of -April. With this wind they will steer to the northward, along the coast -of China, beginning a more accurate survey from the mouth of the river -Kayana, or the Nankin River, in latitude 30°, which I believe is the -utmost limit of this coast hitherto visited by European ships. As the -extent of that deep gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at -present unknown, it must be left to the discretion of the commander, to -proceed up it as far as he may judge prudent; but he must be cautious -not to entangle himself too far in it, lest he should want time for the -prosecution of the remaining part of his enterprize. The same discretion -must be used, when he arrives in the straits of Tessoi, with respect to -the islands of Jeso, which, if the wind and weather be favourable, he -will not lose the opportunity of exploring. - -Having proceeded to the latitude of 51° 40ʹ, where he will make the -southernmost point of the island of Sagaleen, beyond which the sea of -Okotsk is sufficiently known, he will steer to the southward, probably -in the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the southernmost -of the Kurile Islands. Ouroop or Nadeschda, according to the accounts of -the Russians, will furnish the ships with a good harbour, where they may -wood and water, and take in such other refreshments as the place may -afford. Toward the end of June, they will shape their course for the -Shummagins, and from thence to Cook’s River, purchasing, as they -proceed, as many skins as they are able, without losing too much time, -since they ought to steer again to the southward, and trace the coast -with great accuracy from the latitude of 56° to 50°, the space from -which we were driven out of sight of land by contrary winds. It should -here be remarked, that I consider the purchase of skins, in this -expedition, merely as a secondary object, for defraying the expence; and -it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the present voyage, that -two hundred and fifty skins, worth one hundred dollars each, may be -procured without any loss of time; especially as it is probable they -will be met with along the coast to the southward of Cook’s River. - -Having spent three months on the coast of America, they will set out on -their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding in their -route, as much as possible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now -only to add, that if the fur trade should become a fixed object of -Indian commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing -whatever may be left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here -ventured to delineate the outlines. - -The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for our sea-otter -skins, had produced a very whimsical change in the dress of all our -crew. On our arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged -appearance both of the younger officers and seamen; for, as our voyage -had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at first -imagined we should remain at sea, almost the whole of our original stock -of European clothes had been long worn out, or patched up with skins, -and the various manufactures we had met with in the course of our -discoveries. These were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiest -silks and cottons of China. - -On the 30th, Mr. Lannyon arrived with the stores and provisions, which -were immediately stowed in due proportion on board the two ships. The -next day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I sent our sheet -anchor to the country ship, and received in return the guns, which she -before rode by. - -Whilst we lay in the Typa, I was shown a garden belonging to an English -gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, -the poet Camoens used to sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, -of one solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the -rising ground behind it. The rock is overshaded by large spreading -trees, and commands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and -the interspersed islands. - -On the 11th of January, two seamen belonging to the Resolution found -means to run off with a six-oared cutter, and notwithstanding diligent -search was made, both that and the following day, we were never able to -learn any tidings of her. It was supposed, that these people had been -seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to -the fur islands. - -As we heard nothing, during our stay in the Typa, of the measurement of -the ships, it may be concluded, that the point so strongly contested by -the Chinese, in Lord Anson’s time, has, in consequence of his firmness -and resolution, never since been insisted on. - -The following nautical observations were made while we lay here: - - Harbour of Macao, { Lat. 22° 12ʹ 0ʺ N. - { Long. 113 47 0 E. - - Anchoring-place in the { Lat. 22 9 20 N. - Typa, { Long. 113 48 34 E. - - Mean dip of the north pole } 21 1 0 - of the magnetic needle } - - Variation of the compass, 0 19 0 W. - -On the full and change days, it was high water in the Typa at 5^h 15^m, -and in Macao harbour at 5^h 50^m. The greatest rise was six feet one -inch. The flood appeared to come from the south eastward; but we could -not determine this point with certainty, on account of the great number -of islands which lie off the mouth of the river of Canton. - - - _Price of Provisions at Canton, 1780._ - - £ _s._ _d._ - Ananas 0 4 0 a score. - Arrack 0 0 8 _per_ bottle. - Butter 0 2 4-4/5 _per_ catty.[79] - Beef, Canton 0 0 2-3/4 - Ditto, Macao 0 0 5-1/5 - Birds-nests 3 6 8 - Biscuit 0 0 4 - Beache de Mar 0 2 0-4/5 - Calf 1 6 9-3/5 each. - Caravances, dried 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ catty. - Cabbage, Nankeen 0 0 4-4/5 - Curry stuff 0 1 4 - Coffee 0 1 4 - Cocoa-nuts 0 0 4 each. - Charcoal 0 3 4 _per_ pecul. - Coxice 0 1 4 _per_ catty. - Canton nuts 0 0 4 - Chesnuts 0 0 2-2/5 - Cockles 0 0 3-1/5 - Ducks 0 0 5-1/5 - Ditto, wild 0 1 0-4/5 each. - Deers’ sinews 0 2 1-3/5 _per_ catty. - Eels 0 0 6-2/5 - Eggs 0 2 0 _per_ hundred. - Fish, common 0 0 3-1/5 _per_ catty. - Ditto, best 0 0 6-2/5 - Ditto salted, Nankeen 0 0 9-3/5 - Fruit 0 0 1-3/5 - Ditto, Nankeen 0 2 0 - Frogs 0 0 6-2/5 - Flour 0 0 1-76/100 - Fowls, capons, &c. 0 0 7-1/5 - Fish maws 0 2 1-3/5 - Geese 0 0 6-2/5 - Greens 0 0 1-3/4 - Grass 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ bundle. - Grapes 0 1 0-4/5 _per_ catty. - Ham 0 1 2-2/5 - Hartshorn 0 1 4 - Hogs’ Lard 0 0 7-2/5 - Hog, alive 0 0 4-3/4 - Kid, alive 0 0 4-3/4 - Limes 0 0 0-4/5 - Litchis, dried 0 0 2-2/5 - Locksoy 0 0 6-2/5 - Lobchocks 0 0 5-3/5 _per_ catty. - Lamp oil 0 0 5-3/5 - Lamp wick 0 0 8 - Melons 0 0 4-4/5 each. - Milk 0 0 1-1/4 _per_ catty. - Ditto, Macao 0 0 3-1/5 - Mustard seed 0 0 6-2/5 - Mushrooms, pickled 0 2 8 - Ditto, fresh 0 1 4 - Oysters 0 3 4 _per_ pecul. - Onions, dried 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ catty. - Pork 0 0 7-1/7 - Pig 0 0 5-3/5 - Paddy 0 0 0-4/5 - Pepper 0 1 0-4/5 - Pheasants 0 5 4 each. - Partridges 0 0 9-3/5 - Pigeons 0 0 5-1/5 - Pomegranates 0 0 2-2/5 - Quails 0 0 1-3/5 - Rabbits 0 1 4 - Rice 0 0 2 _per_ catty. - Ditto, red 0 0 2-2/5 - Ditto, coarse 0 0 1-1/5 - Ditto, Japan 0 0 8 - Raisins 0 2 0 - Sheep 3 6 8 each. - Snipes 0 0 1-1/2 _per_ catty. - Sturgeon 0 4 9-3/5 - Ditto, small 0 2 4-4/5 - Sugar 0 0 3-1/5 - Salt 0 0 1-3/5 - Saltpetre 0 2 1-3/5 - Soy 0 0 1-3/5 - Spices 0 16 8 - Sweet-meats 0 0 6-2/5 _per_ catty. - Sago 0 0 3-1/5 - Sallad 0 0 2-2/5 - Sharks’ fins 0 2 1-3/5 - Samsui soy 0 0 2-2/5 - Teal 0 0 6-2/5 each. - Turtle 0 0 9-3/5 _per_ catty. - Tea 0 2 0 - Turmeric 0 0 2-2/5 - Tamarinds 0 0 8 - Vinegar 0 0 1-3/5 - Vermicelli 0 0 3-1/5 - Wax candles 0 3 0 - Walnuts 0 0 4-4/5 - Wood 0 1 4 _per_ pecul. - Water 0 6 8 _per_ 100 B^s. - - £ _s._ _d._ - Rent of Poho Factory 400 0 0 _per annum._ - ---- of Lunsoon 316 13 4 - Servants’ rice 0 8 0 _per_ month. - Ditto, wages 0 19 2-2/5 { _per_ month - { for resiants. - _Doll._ - Servants’ wages for the season 20 - Stewards’ wages 80 _per annum._ - Butlers’ ditto 80 - - - _Prices of Labour._ - - £ _s._ _d._ - A coolee, or porter 0 0 8 _per_ day. - A taylor 0 0 5 and rice. - A handicraftsman 0 0 8 - A common labourer, from 0 0 3_d._ to 5_d._ - A woman’s labour considerably cheaper. - - - - - CHAP. X. - -LEAVE THE TYPA.—ORDERS OF THE COURT OF FRANCE RESPECTING CAPTAIN COOK.— - RESOLUTIONS IN CONSEQUENCE THEREOF.—STRIKE SOUNDINGS ON THE - MACCLESFIELD BANKS.—PASS PULO SAPATA.—STEER FOR PULO CONDORE.—ANCHOR - AT PULO CONDORE.—TRANSACTIONS DURING OUR STAY.—JOURNEY TO THE - PRINCIPAL TOWN.—RECEIVE A VISIT FROM A MANDARIN.—EXAMINE HIS LETTERS.— - REFRESHMENTS TO BE PROCURED.—DESCRIPTION AND PRESENT STATE OF THE - ISLAND.—ITS PRODUCE.—AN ASSERTION OF M. SONNERAT REFUTED.—ASTRONOMICAL - AND NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS. - - -On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, and scaled the guns, -which, on board my ship, now amounted to ten; so that, by means of four -additional ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side. -In like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of her guns from -twelve to sixteen; and, in both ships, a stout barricade was carried -round their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our -small force as respectable an appearance as possible. - -We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means of defence, -though we had some reason to believe, that the generosity of our enemies -had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. We were informed at -Canton, that the public prints, which had arrived last from England, -made mention of instructions having been found on board all the French -ships of war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of -falling in with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook, -to suffer them to proceed on their voyage without molestation. The same -orders were also said to have been given by the American Congress to the -vessels employed in their service. As this intelligence was farther -confirmed by private letters of several of the supercargoes, Captain -Gore thought himself bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in -our favour, to refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of -capture, which these might afford, and to preserve, throughout his -voyage, the strictest neutrality. - -At two in the afternoon, having got under sail, the Resolution saluted -the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the same -number. At five, the wind dropping, the ship missed stays, and drove -into shallow water; but, by carrying out an anchor, she was hauled off -without receiving the smallest damage. The weather continuing calm, we -were obliged to warp out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained -by eight o’clock, and lay there till nine the next morning; when by the -help of a fresh breeze from the east, we stood to the southward between -Potoe and Wungboo. - -At noon, we were saluted by a Swedish ship as she passed us on her way -to Europe. At four, the Ladrone bore east, distant two leagues. We now -steered south half-east, with a fresh breeze from the east-north-east, -without any occurrence worth remarking, till noon of the 15th; when, -being in latitude 18° 57ʹ, and longitude 114° 13ʹ, the wind veering to -the north, we directed our course half a point more to the eastward, in -order to strike soundings over the Macclesfield Bank. This we effected -at eight in the evening of the 16th, and found the depth of water to be -fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white sand and shells. This part of the -Macclesfield shoals we placed in latitude 15° 51ʹ, and longitude 114° -20ʹ; which agrees very exactly with the position given in Mr. -Dalrymple’s map, whose general accuracy, if it stood in need of any -support, was confirmed, in this instance, by a great number of lunar -observations, which we had an opportunity of making every day since we -left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, 0° 39ʹ W. - -On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the east by north, with a rough -tumbling sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. On the 18th, the -wind still continued to blow strong, and the sea to run high, we altered -our course to south-west, by south; and, at noon, being in latitude 12° -34ʹ, longitude 132°, we began to steer a point more to the westward for -Pulo Sapata, which we saw on the 19th, at four in the afternoon, bearing -north-west by west, about four leagues distant. This small, high, barren -island is called _Sapata_, from its resemblance of a shoe. Our -observations, compared with Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, place it in -latitude 10° 4ʹ N., longitude 109° 10ʹ E. The gale had, at this time, -increased with such violence, and the sea ran so high, as to oblige us -to close-reef the top-sails. During the last three days, the ships had -outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a-day; and as we -could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following sea, -we imputed it in part to a current, which, according to my own -calculations, had set forty-two miles to the south south-west, between -the noon of the 19th and the noon of the 20th; and is taken into the -account in determining the situation of the island. - -After passing Sapata, we steered to the westward; and at midnight -sounded, and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine sandy -bottom. In the morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we -let out the reefs, and steered west by south for Pulo Condore. At noon -the latitude was 8° 46ʹ N., longitude 106° 45ʹ E.; and, at half-past -twelve, we got sight of the island, bearing west. At four, the extremes -of Pulo Condore, and the islands that lie off it, bore south-east and -south-west by west; our distance from the nearest islands being two -miles. We kept to the north of the islands, and stood for the harbour on -the south-west end of Condore, which having its entrance from the -north-west, is the best sheltered during the north-east monsoon. At six -we anchored, with the best bower, in six fathoms, veered away two-thirds -of the cable, and kept the ship steady with a stream anchor and cable to -the south-east. When moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour -bore north by west, and west north-west one quarter west; the opening at -the upper end south-east by east, three quarters east; our distance from -the nearest shore a quarter of a mile. - -As soon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view -of apprising the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the -shore, but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, parties -were sent to cut wood, which was Captain Gore’s principal motive for -coming hither. In the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind broke the -stream-cable, by which the Discovery was riding, and obliged us to moor -with the bower anchors. - -None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithstanding a -second gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it advisable to land and -go in search of them, that no time might be lost in opening a trade for -such provisions as the place could afford. With this view he appointed -me to accompany him in the morning of the 22d; and, as the wind at this -time blew strong from the east, we did not think it prudent to coast in -our boats to the town, which is situated in the east side of the island, -but rowed round the north point of the harbour. We had proceeded about -two miles along the shore, when observing a road that led into a wood, -we landed. Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a midshipman and -four armed sailors, and pursued the path which seemed to point directly -across the island. We proceeded through a thick wood up a steep hill, to -the distance of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the -same extent, on the other side, we came out into a flat, open, sandy -country, interspersed with cultivated spots of rice and tobacco, and -groves of cabbage palm-trees, and cocoa-nut trees. We here spied two -huts situated on the edge of the wood, to which we directed our course; -and before we came up to them were descried by two men, who immediately -ran away from us, notwithstanding all the peaceable and supplicating -gestures we could devise. - -On reaching the huts I ordered the party to stay without, lest the sight -of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered -and reconnoitred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly man who -was in a great fright, and preparing to make off with the most valuable -of his effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough, in -a very little time, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out -and called to the two men who were running away to return. The old man -and I now soon came to a perfect understanding. A few signs, -particularly that most significant one of holding out a handful of -dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that -were running about the huts in great numbers, left him without any -doubts as to the real objects of our visit. He pointed toward a place -where the town stood, and made us comprehend that, by going thither, all -our wants would be supplied. By this time the young men who had fled -were returned, and the old man ordered one of them to conduct us to the -town as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of which we were not -aware. On our first coming out of the wood, a herd of buffaloes, to the -number of twenty at least, came running toward us, tossing up their -heads, snuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner. They had -followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body at a little -distance; and the old man made us understand that it would be -exceedingly dangerous for us to move till they were driven into the -woods; but so enraged were the animals grown at the sight of us, that -this was not effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The -men not being able to accomplish it, we were surprized to see them call -to their assistance a few little boys who soon drove them out of sight. -Afterward we had occasion to observe, that in driving these animals and -securing them, which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is -made in their nostrils, little boys were always employed, who could -stroke and handle them with impunity at times when the men durst not -approach them. Having got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the -town, which was at a mile’s distance, the road to it lying through a -deep white sand. It is situated near the sea-side, at the bottom of a -retired bay, which must afford a safe road-stead during the prevalence -of the south-west monsoons. - -This town consists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close -together; besides six or seven others that are scattered about the -beach. The roof, the two ends, and the side fronting the country, are -neatly constructed of reeds; the opposite side, facing the sea, is -entirely open; but, by means of a sort of bamboo screens, they can -exclude or let in as much of the sun and air as they please. We observed -likewise other large screens or partitions for the purpose of dividing, -as occasion required, the single room of which the house, properly -speaking, consists, into separate apartments. - -We were conducted to the largest house in the town belonging to their -chief, or, as they called him, their captain. This house had a room at -each end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which -was open on both sides, and provided with partition-screens like the -others. It had, besides, a penthouse projecting four or five feet beyond -the roof, and running the whole length on each side. At each end of the -middle room were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and women -in ludicrous attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly desired to -seat ourselves on mats, and _betel_ was presented to us. - -By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, I had -no difficulty in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of -the company, comprehend the main business of our errand; and I as -readily understood from him that the chief or captain was absent, but -would soon return, and that, without his consent, no purchases of any -kind could be made. We availed ourselves of the opportunity which this -circumstance afforded us to walk about the town; and did not forget to -search, though in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built -by our countrymen near the spot we were now upon in 1702.[80] - -On returning to the captain’s house, we were sorry to find that he was -not yet arrived, and the more so, as the time was almost elapsed which -Captain Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were -desirous we should lengthen our stay; they even proposed our passing the -night there, and offered to accommodate us in the best manner in their -power. I had observed when we were in the house before, and now remarked -it the more, that the man I have mentioned above, frequently retired -into one of the end rooms, and staid there some little time before he -answered the questions that were put to him; which led me to suspect -that the captain was all the time there, though, for reasons best known -to himself, he did not choose to appear; and I was confirmed in this -opinion by being stopped as I was attempting to go into the room. At -length, it clearly appeared that my suspicions were well founded; for, -on our preparing to depart, the person who had so often passed in and -out, came from the room with a paper in his hand, and gave it to me to -read; and I was not a little surprised to find it a sort of certificate -in French as follows: - - PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Evêque d’Adran, Vicaire Apost. de Cochin China, - &c. &c. - -Le petit _Mandarin_, porteur de cet écrit, est véritablement envoyé de -la cour à Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau -Européen qui auroit sa destination d’approcher ici. Le capitaine, en -consequence, pourroit se fier ou pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou -pour faire passer les nouvelles qu’il pourroit croire nécessaire. - - PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, - Evêque d’Adran. - - A SAI-GON, - 10 d’Août, 1779. - -We returned the paper, with many protestations of our being the -_Mandarin’s_ good friends; begging he might be informed that we hoped he -would do us the favour to visit the ships, that we might convince him of -it. We now took our leave, well satisfied, on the whole, with what had -passed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper. -Three of the natives offered their services to accompany us back, which -we readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt -peculiar satisfaction at seeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time -near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our safety, and was preparing -to march after us. He and his party had, during our absence, been -profitably employed in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which -abounds in this bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our -presenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intrusting to -their care a bottle of rum for the _Mandarin_. One of them chose to -accompany us on board. - -At two in the afternoon we joined the ships, and several of our shooting -parties returned about the same time from the woods, having had little -success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals, some of -which will be hereafter noticed. - -At five, a _proa_ with six men rowed up to the ship, from the upper end -of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage introduced himself to -Captain Gore with an ease and good breeding, which convinced us his time -had been spent in other company than what this island afforded. He -brought with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the -_Mandarin_ mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portugueze words, but as none -of us were acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have -recourse to a black man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is -the general language of these islanders, and was understood by the -_Mandarin_. After a little previous conversation, he declared to us, -that he was a Christian, and had been baptized by the name of Luco; that -he had been sent hither in August last, from Sai-gon, the capital of -Cochin China, and had since waited in expectation of some French ships, -which he was to pilot to a safe port, not more than a day’s sail hence, -upon the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted him, that we were not -French, but English, and asked him whether he did not know that these -two nations were now at war with one another? He made answer in the -affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it was -indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait -for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of -Cochin China. He here produced another paper, which he desired us to -read. This was a letter sealed and directed, “To the captains of any -European vessels that may touch at Condore.” Although we apprehended -that this letter was designed for French ships in particular, yet as the -direction included all European captains, and as Luco was desirous of -our perusing it, we broke the seal, and found it to be written by the -bishop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were as follows: “That -having reason to expect, by some late intelligence from Europe, that a -vessel would soon come to Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this -news, got the court to send a _Mandarin_ (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, -to wait its arrival; that if the vessel should put in there, the -commander might either send by the bearer an account to him of his -arrival, or trust himself to the _Mandarin_, who would pilot him into a -well-sheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a day’s sail from -Condore; that should he choose to remain in Condore, till the return of -the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and any other -assistance, which a letter should point out, be furnished; that it was -unnecessary to be more particular, of which the captain himself must be -sensible.” This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was -returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken. - -From this letter, and the whole of Luco’s conversation, there remained -little doubt that it was a French ship he was to expect. At the same -time, we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no -objection to become our pilot. We could not discover from the -_Mandarin_, the exact object and business which the vessel he was -waiting for intended to prosecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our -interpreter, the black, was extremely dull and stupid; and I should, -therefore, be sorry, with such imperfect means of information, to run -the risk of misleading the reader by any conjectures of my own, -respecting the object of Luco’s visit to this island. I shall only add, -that he told us the French ships might perhaps have put into Tirnon, and -from thence sail to Cochin China; and, as he had received no -intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been the case. - -Captain Gore’s inquiries were next directed to find out what supplies -could be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes -of his own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the -island, which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but -finding that Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and -would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterwards -raised upon us to seven and eight dollars. - -Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to -the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be -purchased; but they were obliged to wait, till it was high-water, as -they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the -harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking -on the beach with such force, that it was with the utmost difficulty -each launch brought a buffalo on board in the evening, and the officers, -who were sent on this service, gave it as their opinion, that between -the violence of the surf, and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would -be extremely imprudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way. We -had purchased eight, and were now at a loss in what manner to proceed to -get them on board. We could kill no more than was just necessary for the -consumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the -next. After consulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the remainder -should be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay, -where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being -sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This plan was -accordingly put in execution, but the untractableness and prodigious -strength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult -operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through -their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at -the sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke -the trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them; -sometimes they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which -the ropes ran, and got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of -our men to recover them, would have been ineffectual, without the -assistance of some young boys, whom these animals would permit to -approach them, and by whose little managements their rage was soon -appeased. And, when at length they were got down to the beach, it was by -their aid, in twisting ropes round their legs, in the manner they were -directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to -get them into the boats. A circumstance, respecting these animals, which -I thought no less singular than this gentleness toward, and, as it -should seem, affection for little children, was, that they had not been -twenty-four hours on board, before they became the tamest of all -creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a considerable -time, which became great favourites with the sailors; and thinking that -a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them weighing, -when dressed, seven hundred pounds’ weight, would be a valuable -acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but -my intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them -received at sea. - -It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board; -however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this -service, since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been -discovered, of which, as also of wood, part of the ships’ companies had -been employed in laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would -be necessary for replenishing our stock of these articles, in the Strait -of Sunda. A party had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine at the -head of the harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another -party in cutting down the cabbage-palm, which was boiled, and served out -with the meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty -supply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an -object of constant attention, and demanded all our spare time. - -Pulo Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller -islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. -It takes its name from two Malay words, _Pulo_, signifying an island, -and _Condore_, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is -of the form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the -southernmost point, in a north-east direction; but its breadth no where -exceeds two miles. From the westernmost extremity, the land trends to -the south-east for about four miles; and opposite to this part of the -coast there is an island, called by Monsieur D’Après[81] _Little -Condore_, which runs two miles in the same direction. This position of -the two islands affords a safe and commodious harbour, the entrance into -which is from the north-west. The distance between the two opposite -coasts is three-quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of coral rock, -which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred yards from -the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fathoms’ -water, but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great -difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour -there is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two -islands approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high -water for boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on -the eastern side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with -fourteen or fifteen tons of water a-day. - -This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is -considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither -that writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, make mention -of any other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce, -lizards, and the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur -Dedier, a French engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720, -says, that none of the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the -other parts of India, are to be found here, except water-melons, a few -potatoes, small gourds, _chibbols_ (a small species of onion), and -little black beans. At present, besides the buffaloes, of which we -understood there were several large herds, we purchased from the natives -some remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinese breed. They brought us -three or four of a wild sort; and our sportsmen reported, that they -frequently met with their tracks in the woods, which also abound with -monkeys and squirrels, but so shy, that it was difficult to shoot them. -One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful shining black colour, and -another species striped brown and white. This is called the -flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, resembling a -bat’s wing, extending on each side the belly, from the neck to the -thighs, which, on stretching out their legs, spreads, and enables them -to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in -great abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and -another animal, described by Dampier[82] as resembling the guano, only -much larger. - -Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields -of rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, -cocoa-nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with; -though, except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance. - -It is probable, from what has been already said relative to the bishop -of Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements, into the -island, for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing -station for any of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin -China. Should they have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those -countries, it is certainly well situated for that purpose, or for -annoying the trade of their enemies, in case of war. - -Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered -game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had -the good fortune to shoot a wild hen; and all the shooting parties -agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which -they described to be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that -they saw several of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly -shy. The hen that was shot was of a speckled colour, and of the same -shape, though not quite so large, as a full grown pullet of this -country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into a long dissertation, to -prove that he was the first person who determined the country to which -this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and denies that Dampier met -with it here. - -The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill, -richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the -water’s edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the -tar-tree[83]; but observed none that were tapped in the manner he -describes. - -The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are -not numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a -weak and unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle -disposition. - -We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the -_Mandarin_, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of -recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in -here; to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a -letter for the bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he -begged might be presented to him as a compliment for the services he had -received through his means at Condore. - - The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude 8° 40ʹ 00ʺ N. - - Longitude, deduced from a great number of - lunar observations, 106 18 46 E. - - Dip of the north pole of the magnetic needle, 2 1 0 - - Variation of the compass, 0 14 0 W. - - High water at the full and change of the moon, 4^h 16^m apparent - time. - -From this time, the water continued for twelve hours without any visible -alteration, viz. till 16^h 15^m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and -at 22^h 15^m apparent time, it was low water. The change from ebbing to -flowing was very quick, or in less than 5^m. The water rose and fell -seven feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we -continued there. - - - - - CHAP. XI. - -DEPARTURE FROM PULO CONDORE.—PASS THE STRAITS OF BANCA.—VIEW OF THE - ISLAND OF SUMATRA.—STRAITS OF SUNDA.—OCCURRENCES THERE.—DESCRIPTION OF - THE ISLAND OF CRACATOA.—PRINCE’S ISLAND.—EFFECTS OF THE CLIMATE OF - JAVA.—RUN TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.—TRANSACTIONS THERE.—DESCRIPTION OF - FALSE BAY.—PASSAGE TO THE ORKNEYS.—GENERAL REFLECTIONS. - - -On the 28th day of January 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were -clear of the harbour, steered south south-west for Pulo Timoan. On the -30th, at noon, the latitude, by observation, being 5° 0ʹ N., and -longitude 104° 45ʹ E. we altered our course to south three quarters -west, having a moderate breeze from the north-east, accompanied by fair -weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had soundings of -forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which time our -latitude was 4° 4ʹ N., longitude 104° 29ʹ E., and the variation of the -compass 0° 31ʹ E. - -At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore -south south-west, three quarters west, distant ten miles. This island is -high and woody, and has several small ones lying off to the westward. At -five, Pulo Puisang was seen bearing south by east three quarters east; -and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy, and having out-run our -reckoning from the effect of some current, we were close upon Pulo Aor, -in latitude 2° 46ʹ N., longitude 104° 37ʹ E., before we were well aware -of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the east south-east. We kept -this course till midnight, and then bore away south south-east for the -Straits of Banca. - -On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 1° -20ʹ N., and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar -observations taken in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105° E. -At the same time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, corrected, -was 105° 15ʹ E. We now steered south by east; and, at sun-set, having -fine clear weather, saw Pulo Panjang; the body of the island bearing -west north-west, and the small islands, lying on the south-east of it, -west half south, seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at this time, was -0° 53ʹ N. - -On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continuing -to do the same every hour, till we had passed the Straits of Sunda, and -found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in -latitude, by observation, 0° 22ʹ S., longitude 105° 14ʹ E., and our -soundings twenty fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called -Dominis, which lie off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from -north 62° W., to north 80° W., five leagues distant. At this time we -passed a great deal of wood, drifting on the sea; and, at one o’clock, -we saw Pulo Taya, bearing south-west by west, distant seven leagues. It -is a small high island, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks -lying off it to the northward. When abreast of this island, we had -soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we saw -great quantities of a reddish coloured scum or spawn, floating on the -water, in a southerly direction. - -At day-light, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and, -soon after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill, -which forms the north-east point of the entrance of the Straits, bore -south-east half south, distant six leagues; our latitude, by -observation, being 1° 48ʹ S., and longitude 105° 3ʹ E., the soundings -seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable variation in the compass. - -Having got to the westward of the shoal, called Frederick Endric, at -half past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward; -and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due east, we determined its -latitude to be 2° 3ʹ S., the same as in Mons. D’Après’ map, and its -longitude 105° 18ʹ E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and -having rowed round the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the -Malay tongue to come on board, but received no answer. At midnight, -finding a strong tide against us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin -Hill bearing north 29° W. - -On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in -weighing our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the -ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we -had from the northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there -being a perfect calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our -anchor in thirteen fathoms’ water, about three miles from what is called -the Third Point, on the Sumatra, shore; Monopin Hill bearing N. 54° W. -The latitude, by observation, was 2° 22ʹ S., longitude 105° 38ʹ E. At -three, in the afternoon, we weighed and stood on through the Straits -with a light breeze; and, at eight, were abreast of the second point, -and passed it within two miles, in seventeen fathoms’ water, a -sufficient proof, that this point may be bordered upon with safety. At -midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen -fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca, bearing N. 7° E., and -the First Point S. 54° E., distant about three leagues. - -In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the south-east; -and, at ten, passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the -First Point, at the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the -island of Lusepara, bearing S. 57-1/2° E., four miles distant, we -determined its latitude to be 3° 10-1/2ʹ S., and longitude 106° 15ʹ E. -The difference of longitude between the island Lusepara, which lies in -the south entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which -forms one side of the entrance from the north, we found to be 55ʹ, which -is only two miles less than what is given in D’Après’ chart. - -In passing these Straits, the coast of Sumatra may be approached -somewhat closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three -miles from the shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen -fathoms, free from rocks or shoals; however, the lead is the surest -guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water’s edge, and -the shores are so low, that the sea overflows the land, and washes the -trunks of the trees. To this flat and marshy situation of the shore, we -may attribute those thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived every -morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the island, till -they were dispersed by the rays of the sun. The shores of Banca are much -bolder, and the country inland rises to a moderate height, and appears -to be well wooded throughout. We often saw fires on this island during -the night time; but none on the opposite shore. The tide runs through -the Straits at the rate of between two and three knots an hour. - -In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the -distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five and -six fathoms’ water, and never less than four. We afterward steered south -by east; and having brought Lusepara to bear due north, and deepened our -water to seven fathoms, we altered our course to south by west, keeping -the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water. -The soundings on the Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and -gradually shoaling, as we approached the shore. At five in the afternoon -we saw the Three Sisters, bearing south by west half west; and, at -seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, about eight miles to the -north of the islands. The weather was close and sultry, with light -winds, generally from the north-west; but sometimes varying round as far -as the north-east; and, during the night, we observed much lightning -over Sumatra. - -We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the -Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying -in latitude 5° 0-1/2ʹ S., longitude 106° 12ʹ E., nearly north and south -from each other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole -circumference of which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight -of the island of Java to the southward; the north-west extremity of -which (Cape St. Nicholas) bore south; North Island, on the Sumatra -shore, S. 27° W., and the Sisters north, 27° E., distant four leagues; -our latitude was 5° 21ʹ S., longitude 105° 57ʹ E. - -At four in the afternoon, we saw two sail in the Straits of Sundy; one -lying at anchor near the Mid-channel Island; the other nearer the Java -shore. Not knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our -ships for action; and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, -four miles east by south from North Island. Here we lay all night, and -had very heavy thunder and lightning to the north-west; from which -quarter the wind blew in light breezes, accompanied with hard rain. - -At eight o’clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded through the -Straits, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night; -but about ten the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five -fathoms; a high island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing -south by east. We were, at this time, not more than two miles from the -ships, which now hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on -board for intelligence. The rain still continued with thunder and -lightning. - -Early in the afternoon, the boat returned with an account that the large -ship was a Dutch East-Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet -from Batavia, with orders for the several ships lying in the Straits. It -is the custom for the Dutch ships, as soon as their lading is nearly -completed, to leave Batavia, on account of its extreme unwholesomeness, -and proceed to some of the more healthy islands in the Straits, where -they wait for the remainder of their cargo, and their dispatches. -Notwithstanding this precaution, the Indiaman had lost, since her -departure from Batavia, four men, and had as many more whose recovery -was despaired of. She had lain here a fortnight, and was now about to -proceed to water at Cracatoa, having just received final orders by the -packet. - -At seven in the morning of the 9th, we weighed, and stood on through the -Straits to the south-west, keeping pretty close in with the islands on -the Sumatra shore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Island, -which lay on our left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain -Gore to make sail toward a Dutch ship which now hove in sight to the -southward, and which we supposed to be from Europe; and, according to -the nature of the intelligence we could procure from her, either to join -him at Cracatoa, where he intended to stop, for the purpose of supplying -the ships with arrack, or to proceed to the south-east end of Prince’s -Island, and there take in our water, and wait for him. - -I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch ship, which, soon after, came -to an anchor to the eastward; when the wind slackening, and the current -still setting very strong through the strait to the south-west, we found -it impossible to fetch her, and having, therefore, got as near her as -the tide would permit, we also dropped anchor. I immediately dispatched -Mr. Williamson, in the cutter, with orders to get on board her if -possible; but as she lay near a mile off, and the tide ran with great -rapidity, we soon perceived, that the boat was dropping fast astern. We -therefore made the signal to return, and immediately began to veer away -the cable, and sent out a buoy astern, in order to assist him in getting -on board again. Our poverty, in the article of cordage, was here very -conspicuous; for we had not a single coil of rope, in the store-room, to -fix to the buoy, but were obliged to set about unreeving the -studding-sail gear, the top-sail-halliards, and tackle-falls, for that -purpose; and the boat was at this time driving to the southward so fast, -that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almost all our -running rigging, that she could fetch the buoy. - -I was now under the necessity of waiting till the strength of the tide -should abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr. -Williamson got on board the ship, and learnt, that she had been seven -months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that before -she sailed, France and Spain had declared war against Great Britain; and -that she left Sir Edward Hughes, with a squadron of men-of-war, and a -fleet of East-India ships, at the Cape. Mr. Williamson having, at the -same time, been informed, that the water at Cracatoa was very good, and -always preferred, by the Dutch ships, to that of Prince’s Island, I -resolved to rejoin the Resolution at the former place; and a fair breeze -springing up, we weighed and stood over toward the island, where we soon -after saw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and the tide setting -strong against us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the distance of -about five miles from the Resolution, and immediately sent a boat on -board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had received. - -As soon as the Resolution saw us preparing to come to, she fired her -guns, and hoisted an English jack at the ensign staff, the signal at sea -to lead ahead. This we afterward understood was intended to prevent our -anchoring, on account of the foul ground, which the maps she had on -board placed here. However, as we found none, having a muddy bottom, and -good holding ground, in sixty fathoms water, we kept fast till the -return of the boat, which brought orders to proceed the next morning to -Prince’s Island. We were at this time two miles distant from the shore; -the peak of Cracatoa bore north-west by north; Bantam Point east -north-east half east; Prince’s Island south-west by west. - -The island of Cracatoa is the southernmost of a group situated in the -entrance of the Straits of Sunda. It has a high-peaked hill on the south -end[84], which lies in latitude 6° 9ʹ S., and longitude 105° 15ʹ E.; the -whole circuit of the island is not more than three leagues. Off the -north-east end lies a small island, which forms the road where the -Resolution anchored; and within a reef that runs off the south end of -the latter, there is good shelter against all northerly winds, with -eighteen fathoms water near the reef, and twenty-seven in the -mid-channel. To the north-west, there is a narrow pass for boats between -the two islands. - -The shore, which forms the western side of the road, is in a north-west -direction, and has a bank of coral stretching into the sea, about one -third of a cable’s length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, -except at high water; but the anchoring ground is very good, and free -from rocks. The place where the Resolution watered is a small spring, -situated abreast of the south end of the small island, at a short -distance from the water-side. A little to the southward, there is a very -hot spring, which is used by the natives as a bath. Whilst we were lying -off the south end of this island, we sent a boat with the Master on -shore, to look for water; but after having landed with some difficulty, -he returned unsuccessful. - -Cracatoa is esteemed very healthy, in comparison of the neighbouring -countries. It consists of high land, rising gradually on all sides from -the sea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few spots which -the natives have cleared for rice fields. The number of people on the -island is very inconsiderable. Their chief, as are those of all the -other islands in the Straits, is subject to the king of Bantam. The -coral reefs afford plenty of small turtles; but other refreshments are -very scarce, and sold at an enormous price. - - Latitude of the road where the Resolution - anchored, 8° 6ʹ south. - - Longitude, by Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, 104 48 east. - - Ditto, by observation 105 36 east. - - Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle 26 3 - - Variation of the compass, 1 0 west. - -On the full and change days, it is high-water at 7^h in the morning. The -water rises three feet two inches perpendicular. - -At eight o’clock in the evening, it began to blow fresh from the -westward, with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; and at three the -next morning, we weighed and stood over for Prince’s Island, but the -westerly wind dying away, was succeeded by a breeze from the south-east, -and, at the same time, a strong tide setting to the south-west prevented -our fetching the island, and obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to -drop anchor in sixty-five fathoms, over a muddy bottom, at three leagues -distance from it; the high hill bearing south-west by south, and the -peak on Cracatoa north by east. We had light airs and calms till six -next morning, when we weighed and made sail, having, in our endeavours -to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old messenger, -and afterward a new one, cut out of our best hawser. This, however, was -entirely owing to the wretched state of our cordage, as the strain was -not very considerable, and we had besides assisted the cable in coming -in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at noon -we came to an anchor off the south-east end of Prince’s Island, in -twenty-six fathoms, over a sandy bottom; the east end of the island -bearing north north-east, the southernmost point in sight south-west by -south, the high peak north-west half west, distant from the nearest -shore half a mile. - -As soon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here -before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770 was sent along with the -master, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according -to the best of his recollection, the Endeavour had been supplied, was -found quite salt. Further inland, they saw a dry bed, where the water -seemed to have lodged in rainy seasons; and, about a cable’s length -below, another run, supplied from an extensive pool, the bottom of -which, as well as the surface, was covered with dead leaves. This, -though a little brackish, being much preferable to the other, we began -watering here early the next morning, and finished the same day. - -The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful -supply of large fowls, and some turtles; but the last were for the most -part very small. In the course of the night we had heavy rain; and on -the 14th, at day-light, we saw the Resolution to the northward, standing -toward the island, and at two in the afternoon, she dropt anchor close -to us. In the course of the day, we heeled the ship, and scrubbed and -hogged her bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for sea. - -The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his stock of water at -Cracatoa, sent his men on shore, who now found the brook that was first -mentioned, rendered perfectly sweet by the rain, and flowing in great -abundance. This being too valuable a treasure to be neglected, I gave -orders, that all the casks we had filled before should be started, and -replenished with the fresh water, which was accordingly done before noon -the next day; and in the evening, we cleared the decks, and both ships -were ready for sea. - -In the forenoon of the 18th, we had heavy rains, and variable winds, -which prevented our getting under weigh till two in the afternoon, when -a light wind sprung up from the northward; but this soon after leaving -us, we were obliged to drop our anchor again at eight o’clock that -night, in fifty fathoms’ water, and wait till the same hour the next -morning. At that time, being favoured by a breeze from the north-west, -we broke ground, to our inexpressible satisfaction, for the last time in -the Straits of Sunda, and, the next day, had entirely lost sight of -Prince’s Island. - -This island having been already described by Captain Cook, in the -history of a former voyage, I shall only add, that we were exceedingly -struck with the great general resemblance of the natives, both in -figure, colour, manners, and even language, to the nations we had been -so much conversant with, in the South Seas. The effects of the Javanese -climate, and I did not escape without my full share of it, made me -incapable of pursuing the comparison so minutely as I could have wished. - -The country abounds with wood to such a degree, that notwithstanding the -quantity cut down every year by the ships which put into the road, there -is no appearance of its diminution. We were well supplied with small -turtle and fowls of a moderate size; the last were sold at the rate of -ten for a Spanish dollar. The natives also brought us many hog-deer, and -a prodigious number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as most of our -sailors provided themselves with one, if not two of these troublesome -animals. - -As we should have met with some difficulty in finding the -watering-place, if Mr. Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth -while, for the use of future navigators, to describe its situation more -particularly. The peaked hill on the island bears from it north-west by -north; a remarkable tree growing upon a coral reef, and quite detached -from the neighbouring shrubs, stands just to the northward; and, close -by it, there is a small plot of reedy grass, the only piece of the kind -that can be seen hereabout. These marks will show the place where the -pool empties itself into the sea; but the water here is generally salt -as well as that which is in the pool. The casks must, therefore, be -filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry seasons, the fresh -water that comes down from the hills is lost among the leaves, and must -be searched for by clearing them away. - - The latitude of the anchoring-place } 6° 36ʹ 15ʺ S. - at Prince’s Island was, } - Longitude, 105 17 30 E. - - Dip of the south pole of the } 28 15 0 - magnetic needle, } - - Variation of the compass, 0 54 0 W. - - Mean of the thermometer, 83 0-1/2 0 - -From the time of our entering the Straits of Banca, we began to -experience the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of our -people fell dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers; which, however, -we prevented from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the -rest, in the most airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs; -others complained of violent pains in the head; and even the healthiest -among us felt a sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an -insufferable languor, and a total loss of appetite. But though our -situation was, for a time, thus uneasy and alarming, we had, at last, -the singular satisfaction of escaping from these fatal seas without the -loss of a single life; a circumstance which was probably owing in part -to the vigorous health of the crews when we first arrived here, as well -as to the strict attention now become habitual in our men, to the -salutary regulations introduced amongst us by Captain Cook. - -On our leaving Prince’s Island, and during the whole time of our run -from thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in -a much more sickly state than that of the Discovery; for, though many of -us continued for some time complaining of the effects of the noxious -climate we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. Of the two -who had been ill of fevers, one, after being seized with violent -convulsions on the 12th of February, which made us despair of his life, -was relieved by the application of blisters, and was soon after out of -danger. The other recovered, but more slowly. On board the Resolution, -besides the obstinate coughs and fevers under which they very generally -laboured, a great many were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom, -contrary to our expectations, continued increasing till our arrival at -the Cape. - -Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with some -reason, to the Discovery having her fire-place between decks; the heat -and smoke of which he conceived might help to mitigate the bad effects -of the damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe that we -escaped the flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our -catching it from others. For if some kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend -there is no doubt they are, contagious, it is not improbable that the -Resolution caught this disorder from the Dutch ships at Cracatoa. In -order to avoid this danger, when Mr. Williamson was sent to the Indiaman -in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda, he had the strictest orders not -to suffer any of our people, on any account whatever, to go on board; -and whenever we had afterward occasion to have any communication with -the Resolution, the same caution was constantly observed. - -We were no sooner clear of Prince’s Island, than we had a gentle breeze -from the west north-west; but this did not last long; for the following -day the wind became again variable, and continued so till the noon of -the 25th, when it blew squally, and blew fresh from the north. - -On the 22d at noon, being in latitude 10° 28ʹ S., and longitude 104° -14ʹ, we saw great quantities of boobies and other fowls that seldom go -far from land; from which, we conjectured that we were near some small -unknown island. - -In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed suddenly to the southward, -accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence. -During the night, almost every sail we had bent gave way, and most of -them were split to rags; our rigging also suffered materially, and we -were, the next day, obliged to bend our last suit of sails, and to knot -and splice the rigging, our cordage being all expended. This sudden -storm we attributed to the change from the monsoon to the regular -trade-wind; our latitude was about 13° 10ʹ S. and we had made by our -reckoning about 4-1/2° of longitude west from Java head. - -From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular -trade-wind from the south-east to east by south, with fine weather; and, -being in an old beaten track, met no occurrence that deserved the -smallest notice. - -In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31° 42ʹ S., and -longitude 35° 26ʹ E., the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder-storm. -From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35° 1ʹ S., and -longitude 26° 3ʹ E. the winds were moderate, and generally from the -south quarter. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the eastward, which -continued till the afternoon of the 4th; after which, we had a calm that -lasted the two following days. - -It had hitherto been Captain Gore’s intention to proceed directly to St. -Helena, without stopping at the Cape; but the rudder of the Resolution -having been for some time complaining, and, on being examined, reported -to be in a dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the -Cape, as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of his sick, and -for procuring a new main-piece to the rudder. - -From the 21st of March, when we were in latitude 27° 22ʹ S., longitude -52° 25ʹ E., to the 5th of April, when we had got into latitude 36° 12ʹ -S., longitude 22° 7ʹ E., we were strongly affected by the currents, -which set to the south south-west, and south-west by west, sometimes at -the rate of eighty knots a day. On the 6th, having got under the lee of -the African coast, we lost them entirely. - -In the morning of the 6th, a sail was seen to the south-west standing -toward us; and, as the wind soon after rose from the same quarter, we -cleared our ships for action. We now discovered, from the mast-head, -five sail more on our lee-bow, standing to the eastward; but the weather -coming on hazy, we lost sight of them all in an hour’s time. Our -latitude at noon was 35° 49ʹ S., longitude 21° 32ʹ E. At seven o’clock -the next morning (the seventh), we made the land to the northward at a -considerable distance. - -On the 8th, the weather was squally, and blew fresh from the north-west; -the following day it settled to the west, and we passed pretty close to -the sail seen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumsy in -figure, and, to appearance, unskilfully managed; yet she out-sailed us -exceedingly. The colours which she hoisted were different from any we -had seen; some supposed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial. - -At day-light the next morning, the land again appeared to the north -north-west, and, in the forenoon, a snow was seen bearing down to us, -which proved to be an English East-India packet, that had left Table Bay -three days before, and was cruizing with orders for the China fleet, and -other India ships. She told us, that about three weeks before, Mons. -Trongoller’s squadron, consisting of six ships, had sailed from the -Cape, and was gone to cruize off St. Helena, for our East-India fleet. -This intelligence made us conjecture, that the five sail we had seen -standing to the eastward must have been the French squadron, who, in -that case, had given over their cruize, and were probably proceeding to -the Mauritius. Having informed the packet of our conjectures, and also -of the time we understood the China ships were to sail from Canton, we -left them, and proceeded toward the Cape. - -In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner’s Quoin bore north by east, and -False Cape east north-east; but the wind being at south-west, and -variable, prevented our getting into False Bay, till the evening of the -12th, when we dropt anchor abreast of Simon’s Bay. We found a strong -current setting to the westward, round the Cape, which, for some time, -we could but just stem, with a breeze that would have carried us four -knots an hour. The next morning, we stood into Simon’s Bay; and at eight -came to anchor, and moored a cable each way; the best bower to the east -south-east, and small bower west north-west; the south-east point of the -bay bearing south by east, Table Mountain north-east half north; distant -from the nearest shore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the -Nassau and Southampton East-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The -Resolution saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was -returned. - -Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us, as soon as we -had anchored. This gentleman had conceived a great affection for Captain -Cook, who had been his constant guest, the many times he had visited the -Cape; and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some -time before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our ships -returning without their old commander. He appeared much surprized to see -our crew in so stout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had -left Macao on our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some time -before, reported, that we were in a most wretched state, having only -fourteen hands left on board the Resolution, and seven on board the -Discovery. It is not easy to conceive the motive these people could have -had for propagating so wanton and malicious a falsehood. - -On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town; and the next -morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, by whom we were -received with every possible attention and civility. He had also -conceived a great personal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the -highest admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his -misfortune, with many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the -principal apartments of the governor’s house, he shewed us two pictures, -of Van Tromp and De Ruyter, with a vacant space left between them, which -he said he meant to fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and for -that purpose, he requested our assistance when we should arrive in -England, in purchasing one for him, at any price. - -We were afterward informed by the governor, that all the powers at this -time at war with England had given orders to their cruizers to let us -pass unmolested. This, as far as related to the French, we had -sufficient reason to think true; as Mr. Brandt had already delivered to -Captain Gore, a letter from Mr. Stephens, inclosing a copy of Mons. de -Sartine’s orders, taken on board the Licorne. With respect to the -Americans, the matter still rested on report; but Baron Plettenberg -assured us, that he had been expressly told, by the commander of a -Spanish ship, which had touched at the Cape, that he, and all the -officers of his nation, had received orders to the same effect. These -assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he had taken, of -maintaining on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly, when, on -the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India ships home, it was -proposed to him to accompany them on their passage, he thought proper to -decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in case we had fallen -in with any of the enemies’ ships, have brought him into a very -difficult and embarrassing situation. - -During our stay at the Cape, we met with every proof of the most -friendly disposition toward us, both in the governor and principal -persons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our first -arrival, Colonel Gordon, the commander of the Dutch forces, with whom, -on our former visit here, I had the happiness of being on a footing of -intimacy and friendship, was absent on a journey into the interior parts -of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on this occasion, -penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller had done -before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of -natural curiosities with which he has enriched the Museum of the Prince -of Orange. Indeed, a long residence at the Cape, and the powerful -assistance he has derived from his rank and situation there, joined to -an active and indefatigable spirit, and an eager thirst after knowledge, -have enabled him to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of -this part of Africa than could have fallen to the lot of any other -person; and it is with great pleasure I can congratulate the public on -the information I have received of his intentions to give the world, -from his own hand, a history of his travels. - -False Bay, situated to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, is -frequented by shipping during the prevalence of the north-west winds, -which begin to blow in May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay. -It is terminated on the west by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the -eastward by False Cape. - -The entrance of the bay is six leagues wide, the two capes bearing from -each other due east and west. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good -Hope, on the west side, is situated Simon’s Bay, the only convenient -station for ships to lie in; for although the road without it affords -good anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumstanced for procuring -necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from -Cape Town, which is about twenty-four miles distant. To the north -north-east of Simon’s Bay there are several others, from which it may be -easily distinguished, by a remarkable sandy way to the northward of the -town, which makes a striking object. In steering for the harbour, along -the west shore, there is a small flat rock, called Noah’s Ark; and, -about a mile to the north-east of it, several others, called the Roman -Rocks. These lie one mile and a half from the anchoring place; and -either between them, or to the northward of the Roman Rocks, there is a -safe passage into the bay. When the north-west gales are set in, the -following bearings will direct the mariner to a safe and commodious -birth; Noah’s Ark, S. 51° E., and the centre of the hospital S. 53° W. -in seven fathoms. But if the south-east winds have not done blowing, it -is better to stay further out in eight or nine fathoms. The bottom is -sandy, and the anchors settle considerably before they get hold. All the -north part of the bay is low sandy land, but the east side is very high. -About six miles east of Noah’s Ark lies Seal Island, the south part of -which is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with safety, -nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope, are many -sunk rocks, some of which appear at low water; and others have breakers -constantly on them. - - The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon’s - Bay, by observation, 34° 20ʹ S. - - The longitude, 18 29 E. - - Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle, 46 47 - - Variation of the compass, 22 16 W. - -On the full and change days, it was high-water at 5^h 55^m apparent -time; the tide rose and fell five feet five inches; at the neap tides, -it rose four feet one inch. - -From the observations taken by Mr. Bayly and myself, on the 11th of this -month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, we found its latitude -to be 34° 23ʹ S., which is 4ʹ to the northward of its position, as -determined by the Abbé de la Caille. - -Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves with the -necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the bay on the 9th of -May, and on the 14th we got into the south-east trade-wind, and steered -to the westward of the islands of St. Helena and Ascension. On the 31st, -being in latitude 12° 48ʹ S., longitude 15° 40ʹ W., the magnetic needle -was found to have no dip. - -On the 12th of June, we passed the equator for the fourth time during -this voyage, in longitude 26° 16ʹ W. We now began to perceive the -effects of a current setting north by east, half a knot an hour. It -continued in this direction till the middle of July, when it began to -set a little to the southward of the west. - -On the 12th of August, we made the western coast of Ireland, and, after -a fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it was Captain -Gore’s intention to have sent the journals and maps of our voyage to -London, we were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the -northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind -continuing in the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis -Island; and on the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships -came to an anchor at Stromness. From hence, I was dispatched by Captain -Gore, to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and on the -4th day of October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence -of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. - -On quitting the Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of -leaving the whole crew in perfect health; and at the same time, the -number of convalescents on board the Resolution, did not exceed two or -three, of whom only one was incapable of service. In the course of our -voyage, the Resolution lost but five men by sickness, three of whom were -in a precarious state of health at our departure from England; the -Discovery did not lose a man. An unremitting attention to the -regulations established by Captain Cook, with which the world is already -acquainted, may be justly considered as the principal cause, under the -blessing of Divine Providence, of this singular success. But the baneful -effects of salt provisions might perhaps, in the end, have been felt, -notwithstanding these salutary precautions, if we had not assisted them, -by availing ourselves of every substitute, our situation at various -times afforded. These frequently consisting of articles which our people -had not been used to consider as food for men, and being sometimes -exceedingly nauseous, it required the joint aid of persuasion, -authority, and example to conquer their prejudices and disgusts. - -The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and portable -soup. As to the anti-scorbutic remedies, with which we were amply -supplied, we had no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did -not appear the slightest symptoms of the scurvy, in either ship, during -the whole voyage. Our malt and hops had also been kept as a resource, in -case of actual sickness, and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, -were found entirely spoiled. About the same time, were opened some casks -of biscuit, flour, malt, peas, oatmeal, and grots, which, by way of -experiment, had been put up in small casks, lined with tinfrail, and -found all, except the peas, in a much better state than could have been -expected, in the usual manner of package. - -I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration -of government, the necessity of allowing a sufficient quantity of -Peruvian bark, to such of his majesty’s ships as may be exposed to the -influence of unwholesome climates. It happened very fortunately in the -Discovery, that only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of -Sunda, stood in need of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole -quantity usually carried out by surgeons, in such vessels as ours. Had -more been affected in the same manner, they would probably all have -perished, from the want of the only remedy capable of affording them -effectual relief. - -Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we consider its -duration, and the nature of the service in which we were engaged, will -appear scarcely less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the -crews, was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day -together, except twice; which was owing, the first time, to an accident -that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhee; and the second, -to the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof -cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to -whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs. - - - - - APPENDIX. - - - VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, MAY, &C. 1777. - - _Friendly Isles._ English. - - Ve faine, _A woman_. - - Maiee, _Bread-fruit_. - - Fukkatou, _Barter_. - - Woa, _Admiration_. - - My, fogge, _Good_. - - Attahoa, _A bead_; _a necklace_. - - Koehaa, _or_ Kohaeea? _What is that_? or _what is the - name of it_? - - Magoo, _Give me_. - - Le laiee, _Good_. - - Hou, _Come here_. - - Moree, _A shaddock_. - - Omee, _Give me_. - - Hobba, _A sort of plantain_. - - Koajee, _or_ Kaoojee, _Done_; _finished_. - - Koeea, _Yes_; _it is so_. - - Amou, _Got_; _to hold fast_. - - Horo, horo, _A handkerchief_ or _wiper_. - - Ongofooroo, _Ten_. - - Gehai, _or_ geefai, _There_; and _that_. - - Kato, _A basket_. - - Egeeai, _A mat they wear round them_. - - Fooroo, _or_ fooloo, _Hair_. - - Fooee vy, _The leg_. - - Tooa vy, _Upper part of the foot_. - - Fooloo, fooloo, matta, _The eye-brow_. - - Emamae, _Pointed plantains_. - - Evatta vatta, _The breast_. - - Eboore, Ditto. - - Etooa, _The back_. - - Erongootoo, _The lips_. - - Elelo, _The tongue_. - - Edainga, _The thigh_. - - Eraimoo, _The hips_. - - Evae, veene, _The arm-pit_. - - Too, _The finger_ - - Vakka, vakka, _The side_. - - Hekaite, _The belly_. - - Tareenga, _The ear_. - - Horo, _To wipe_. - - Kouta, _Beating with two sticks_. - - Fangoo, fangoo, _A flute_. - - Motoo, _To break_. - - Koooma, _Burnt circular marks_. - - Taffa, _Raised marks burnt_. - - Kowy, _The cheeks_. - - Koomoo, koomoo, _The beard_. - - Peeto, _The navel_. - - Eoo, _The nipple_. - - Etarre, _To cough_. - - Hengatoe, _Cloth_. - - Efangoo, _To sneeze_. - - Eanoo, _To spit_. - - Etoogee, _To beat_ or _strike_. - - Etooee, _The elbow_. - - Efeelo, _A small rope_, or _thread_. - - Haro, _or_ halo, _Go_; _begone_. - - Egeea, _The throat_. - - Eky, _To eat_, or _chew_. - - Evagoo, _To scratch_. - - Ma matta, _Let me look_, or _see_. - - Egeea, _The neck_. - - Enofoa, haioo, _A seat._ - - Etoo, _To rise up_. - - Mamao, _To yawn_. - - Ehappe, _A box_, or _chest_. - - Moe, _or_ mohe, _Sleep_. - - Tangooroo, _To snore_. - - Ekatta, _To laugh_. - - Akka, _To kick_, or _stamp_. - - Feedjee, _A fillup_. - - Ekakava, _Sweat_. - - Eeoho, _To hollow_, or _cry_. - - Epooo, _A post_, or _staunchion_. - - Etolle, _A hatchet_. - - Maalava, _To breathe_. - - Haila, _To pant_. - - Oooo, _To bite_. - - Taffa, _To cut_. - - Moevae, _The heel_. - - Eeegoo, _The tail of a dog_. - - Mapoo, _To whistle_. - - Aipa, _A fishing-hook_. - - Ainga, _A sort of paint_. - - Evaika, _A rail_. - - Kooroo kooroo, _A green dove_. - - Ekoopamea, cheelee, _A net_. - - Efooo, _A gimlet_, or _shark’s tooth, used - for that purpose_. - - Aiee, _A fan_. - - Emaimeea, _or_ meemeea, _A reed_, or _small organ_. - - Eneeoo, _A cocoa-nut_. - - Eoono, _Tortoise shell_. - - Enoo, _A belt_. - - Afooneema, _The palm of the hand_. - - Moemoeea, _A ceremony of putting the foot of - one on the head, and turning the - hand several times, &c._ - - Pooa, tareenga, _A sort of plantains_. - - Kahoo hoonga, _An arrow_, or _reed_. - - Atoe farre, _The roof of a house_. - - Etovee, _A club_. - - Emamma, _A ring_. - - Eao, _A hat_. - - Tehou, _A hundred_. - - Keeroo, _A thousand_. - - Laoo varee, _Ten thousand_. - - Laoo noa, _A hundred thousand_, or _the - greatest number they can reckon_. - - Poooree, _Night_; _darkness_. - - Maheena, _A month_. - - Fukkatanne, _To sit cross-legged_. - - Kaffa, _A rope_, or _cord of cocoa-nut - core_. - - Heegee, _To lift up_. - - Togoo, _To set down_. - - Fetooa, tagee, _To tie_. - - Vevaite, _To untie_. - - Tollo tolla, _Cocoa-nut skin_. - - Eooma, _The shoulder_. - - Fooo, _A nail_ (of iron). - - Atoo, _To give_. - - Epallo, _A rat_. - - Elafo, _To throw away_. - - Haaile, _To go_. - - Haaile atoo, _To go away_. - - Haaile my, _To come_. - - Elooa, _To puke_. - - Matangee, _Wind_. - - Mamma, _or_ mamma, reeva, _Light_. - - Tahee, _The sea_. - - Paho paho, _To paddle_. - - Hakaoo, _or_ toree, _Wood_; _a tree_. - - Ehoreeoo, _To scoop water out of a boat_. - - Booloo booloo, _A sail_. - - Fanna, _or_ fanna tooeeoroongo, _A mast_. - - Toula, _A hook_. - - Tamadje, _A child_. - - Tangee, _To weep_. - - Elango, _A fly_. - - Haingoo, toolaiee, _A tropic bird_ - - Epalla, _A bird’s tail_. - - Kapukou, _A wing_. - - Hepoona, _To fly_. - - Togotto, _To lie down_. - - Feenakka, _A bird-cage_. - - Eallo, _The rolling of a ship_. - - Etooee, _A needle_. - - Epeepeege, _A girl that is a maid_. - - Efonno, _A turtle._ - - Maia, _A thing_. - - Mahee maia, _Give me something_. - - Koeea, _Yes, it is_. - - Geelee, _A file_. - - Owo, _Wait a little_. - - Temadoo? _Shall I come_? - - Kaee, _or_ Eekaee, _No_. - - Kalae, _A blue coat_. - - Oloonga, _A stool_. - - Takkabou, _A coarse mat to sleep upon_. - - Kakulla, _A sweet smell_; _sweet smelled_. - - Namooa, _To smell_; _smell it_. - - Koe, _It is_; _as_ Koe maa, _it is - food_; Koe maiee, _it is fruitful_. - - Koatoooo, _A king fisher_. - - Mogo, _A lizard_. - - Toutou, _A cord_. - - Matte laiva, _Dead_. - - Moeha, _More_. - - Veenaga, _Fine_, _charming_, _wonderful_. - - Tougge my, _Bring it here_. - - Ai, (_long_) _angrily_, _No_. - - Tamma, _Boy_, _man_, _friend_, _calling to - one_. - - Eeekoou, _Here am I_; _answering one who - calls_. - - Halloo, _Go_; _to go_. - - Hengalo, _At a distance_, _a great way off_. - - Eafee, or Eafoi, _Hire_. - - Yehaeea?(_inquisitively_) _What is that_? - - Kohaee koa, _or_ Kowykoa? _What is your name_? - - Kovee, _or_ Koveeeea, _Bad_. - - Bongee, bongee, _To-morrow_. - - Peepee, _A pair of scissars_. - - Chenna, _Friend, I say_; _hark ye_. - - Geelee, _or_ geeree, _The skin_. - - Etchee, _To peel a cocoa nut_. - - Taha pai, _One thing_, _as a day_, &c. - - Totto, _Blood_. - - Roatoo? _Shall I go_? - - Whakae, _Look_, _see_. - - Whakae my, _Let me see it_. - - Arooweevo, _Below_; _to let down a rope_, or - _to go down over the ship’s side to - trade_. - - Aingy, _Large clams or cockles_. - - Eeegee, _A chief_. - - Eatooa, _God_. - - A bo, _To-night_; _at night_. - - Any, _Presently_; _by and by_. - - Elangee, _The sky_. - - Elaa, _The sun_. - - Ao, _Clouds_. - - Jeela, _A canoe’s yard_. - - Laa, _A sail_. - - Falle wakaeea, _The hut in a large canoe_. - - Faee, _To play_. - - Tallafoo, _The fire-place in a large boat_. - - Goolee, _A sort of windlass_, or _belaying - place for the rope of their sail_. - - Tataa, _A scoop for bailing out a boat_. - - Taia, _White_. - - Oolee, _Black_. - - Goola, _Red_. - - Ohooafee, _Smoke_. - - Geeai, _A close kind of mat_. - - Fafooa, _Pimples_. - - Maaloonga, _High_, _mountainous_. - - Mai, _Motions with the hands in - dancing_. - - Touvaa, _A cap_ or _bonnet they wear to - shade them from the sun_. - - Majeela, _A large bamboo fishing-rod_. - - Pai, _A thing_. - - Mamahee, _Pain_. - - Echee, _or_ Eeke, _Small_, _little_. - - Cheeatta, _A looking-glass_. - - Tangameeme, _A bladder_. - - Goobainga, _A fishing-net_. - - Elillo, _Below_, _underneath_. - - Faee, _To shave_. - - Motooa, A Moumy, _To paddle_, or _row_. - - Avy, ava, _or_ govy, _A harbour_, or _anchoring-place_. - - Po, taha, pai, _In one day_. - - Ebaika, _A large bat_. - - Kakaa, _A parrot_. - - Togee, _Marks on the cheek, made by - beating_. - - Nono, _To hide a thing_. - - Fonooa, _or_ Kaeenga, _Land_. - - Beeoo, _A palm which bears clusters of - very small nuts_. - - Haoomoo, _A large blunt sort of plantains_. - - Goolo, _A globular earthen pot_, or - _vessel_. - - Manga, mangatei, _A large blue star-fish_. - - Hainga, _A parroquet_. - - Maagonna, _Full_; _satisfied with eating_. - - Maheena, _The moon_. - - Teeleeamoo, _A secret_. - - Fonoa bou, _A land of plenty_. - - Oobai, _A song_. - - Foolehaioo, _The green wattle bird_. - - Pailoo, _A spoon_. - - Kulle, velaive, _A large white spider, with brown - and white legs_. - - Fageeta, _A ceremony of kissing, &c. on a - new acquaintance_. - - Goomaa, _A rat_. - - Agoota, oomoo, _To put a thing in an oven_. - - Oomoo, _An oven_. - - Eadda, _A path_. - - Mattabaa, _A door_. - - Togga, _A large stick used as a bar behind - the door_. - - Koheeabo, _The paper mulberry plant_. - - Faa, _Palm_, called _Pandanus_. - - Tangata, _or_ tangatta, _A man_. - - Taheina, _A child_. - - Onne, onne, _White sand_. - - Pai, _Ripe_; _old_. - - Ea, _A fence made of bamboo, &c._ - - Toee, _The wood which they make their - canoes of_. - - Mafaee, _Wasps nests built in the pod of a - plant_. - - Kappe, _A large cylindrical edible root_. - - Ongo, Ongo, _A small palm growing to the height - of eight feet_. - - Gooholla, _It is gone_, or _flown_. - - Mai, kawaia, _To take away a thing_. - - Mai, Evaheeoo, _To let a thing remain_. - - Kaeenga, _Land_, or _properly the shore_. - - Fyatooka, _A burying-place_. - - Woee, _Admiration_. - - Koeee, _A fan_. - - Waggee hou, _Let it alone_. - - Bai, _Great_. - - Laika, laika, _Good_. - - Ooo, _A cray fish_. - - Feengafee, _A black and white mat_. - - Aingatooeea, _Stained red rushes, which they - wear round the waist_. - - An, any, _A little while ago_. - - Hengatoo, _Glazed cloth which they wear_. - - Falla, _A thick strong mat_. - - Mahagee, _A sort of ulcer, that leaves large - laced scars_. - - Akkaree, _A stool to lay the head on when - asleep_. - - Naffa, _A large cylindrical piece of wood, - hollowed with a slit, which serves - as a drum_. - - Toa, _A spear_. - - Etanno, _To bury under ground_. - - Afai, _When_. - - Otoogoo, _Finished_. - - Maree, _or_ mareeai, _Well done_; _an acclamation_. - - Fafa, _To carry one on the back_. - - Mamao, _A great way_; _distant_. - - Meedje, meedje, _To drink out of a cocoa-nut_. - - Matta, _The face_. - - Ty, _or_ Etae, _Excrement_. - - Faitannoo, _A sort of pepper-tree, the juice - of which is very acrid_. - - Nafee, nafee, _A fine white sort of mat_. - - Abee, _A house to sleep in_. - - Touaa, _A square bonnet_. - - Fukke, fety, _To give a thing gratis_, or _for - friendship’s sake_. - - Tooa, _or_ Tooaeea, _A servant_, or _person of inferior - rank_. - - Fukkatooa, _A challenging motion, made by - striking the hand on the bend of - the opposite arm_. - - Kaeehya, _or_ kaeehaa, _A thief_. - - Fooloo, _A quill_. - - Moojeekakka, _A basket made of cocoa-nut core, - and white beads_. - - Mahanga, _A brother_. - - Maeele, _An odoriferous shrub, planted near - the Fyatooka_. - - Fofolla, _To unfold a piece of cloth_. - - Kotjee, _None_. - - Taboone, _To close_, or _shut_; _a partition - or skreen_. - - Too, _To draw back a curtain or skreen_. - - Ava, _A window_; _hole_. - - Fonooa, foohoo, _A land of warriors_. - - Taboo, _Not to touch a thing_. - - Goomoo, goomoo, _A species of lichen, that grows - plentifully on some trees_. - - Laiva, _For good and all_; _certainly_. - - Bagooee, _A prickly star fish_. - - Bedjeeloa, _A crab, with black claws_. - - Fae, _A sister_. - - Makka fatoo, _Coral rock_. - - Gailee, gailee, _Dirt_. - - Maa, _Clean_. - - Ma, tagge tagge, _Let me look at it_. - - Konna, _Poison_. - - Fekaee, _or_ smatte, fekaee, _Hunger_. - - Matte, fee aeenoo, _Thirst_. - - Aieenoo, _To drink_. - - Awhainne, _Near at hand_. - - Monoo, _An expression of thanks_. - - Mattahoa, _Very good_. - - Toooa, _Both_; _we_; _both of us_. - - Fooa, _repeated_, _A great number_. - - Boola, _Small white shells_. - - Anoo, anoo, _To swim_. - - Anga, _A man_. - - Haile, _A knife_. - - Haile, fofoo, _A knife that shuts_. - - Adoo, _Give it_; _to give_. - - Geehea, _Which_, or _what_. - - Tohagge, _Let me look at_, or _see it_. - - Namoogoo, _A stink_, or _bad smell_. - - Namoo, kakulla, _A sweet smell_. - - Boobooa, tahee, _Salt_. - - Meeme, _Urine_. - - Owo, owo, owo. _No, no, no_. - - Fohee, _To peel a plantain_. - - Ajeeneu, _A vessel to put drink in_. - - Tangee, fe toogee, _Striking the cheeks on the death - of their relations_. - - Mamaha, _Coral rock under water_. - - Oohee, _A species of diosma_. - - Mawhaha, _An excellent root like a potatoe_. - - Baa, _A crackling noise_; _to crack_, or - _snap_. - - Boogo, _The largest sort of tree in the - islands_. - - Taifo, _A mullet_. - - Amou, _Whole_; _sound_; _true_; _valid_. - - Faigeeaika, _Iambos_. - - Kakou, _A shoal_, or _reef, on which the - sea breaks_. - - Shainga (_in the language of _No_; _there is none_. - Feejee_), - - Fangoo, _A small calibash shell_. - - Oore, oore, _Black_. - - Looloo, _An owl_. - - Murroo, _Soft_. - - Faifaika, _Hard_. - - Feengotta, _A sort of shell_. - - Wouainee, _I am here_; i.e. _when called - upon_. - - Mahagge, fatoo, _A dropsy_. - - Goee enee, _Near at hand_. - - Fukka, ma fooa, _An arbour in which they catch - pigeons, &c._ - - Fatooree, _Thunder_. - - A faa, _A storm_; _lightning_. - - Toufarre, _A besom_. - - Tongo, _A wood, of which bows are made_. - - Ooha, _Rain_. - - Tooboo, _To grow_. - - Tawagge, totto, _The red-tailed tropic bird_. - - Kadjee, _There is no more_; or _none_. - - Fanna, fanna, _To wash the hands before meals_. - - Mooonga, _Mountains_; _a mountain_. - - Keeneeo, _Low land_. - - Laoo allee, _A great many_; _an endless - number_. - - Ogookaee, _No_; _there is none_. - - Laia, _or_ koelaia, _Speech_; _words_. - - Kaho, _An arrow_. - - Aieeboo, _A vessel or dish_. - - Tooee, _A club_. - - Feila, _To pull a rope_. - - Eevee, aai, _A cheer in pulling a rope_. - - Feilaa too, _A word given by one, on pulling a - rope, and the rest repeat_ Woa, _as - a response_. - - Engago, _Fat_, or _lard of a hog_. - - Kanno, matte, _The lean part of meat_. - - Kofooa, _A kidney_. - - Kollofeea, _The name of the volcano on - Tofooa_. - - Moggocheea, _Cold_. - - Hooa, _The going about_, or _tacking of a - ship_. - - Ongonna, _To understand_. - - Kaee ongonna, _I do not understand you_. - - Mafanna, _Warm_. - - Anapo, _Last night_. - - Fakkahooa, _The Southerly wind_; or _a foul - wind_. - - Looloo, _To roll, as a ship_. - - Matangee, _The wind_. - - Matangee anga, _or_ matangee leeoo. _The East and North wind_, or _a - fair wind_. - - Amooee, _or_ tamooree, _From behind_. - - Amooa, _or_ tamooa, _From before_. - - Ahaa, _or_ koehaa? _For what reason_? - - Mohe fai? _Where shall I sleep_? - - Koo mafoore, _To lie along_, or _yield, as a - ship close hauled_. - - Palla, _Rotten_. - - Elooa, _A hole_. - - Molle, _or_ molle molle, _Smooth_. - - Keeai, _A plant they make mats of; the - cultivated Pandanus_. - - Tongo laiee, _Mangrove_. - - Reemoo, _Seaweed_. - - Fety, _A term of friendship_. - - Jeejee, _Esculent dracæna_ - - Taboo laia, _Don’t speak_; _hold your tongue_. - - Toonoa, _Dressed_, _cooked_. - - Tohke, _A measure_. - - Toohagge, _Let me see it_. - - Taheine, _A young girl_; _a daughter_. - - Haine, _Here_. - - Baiahou, _Swell of the sea_. - - Maea, _A rope_. - - Otta, _Raw_; _as raw meat_. - - Moho, _Meat well dressed_. - - Maoo lillo, _Low land_. - - Moanna, _Deep water_; _sea_. - - Kae haia? _Which is it you want_? - - Vava tahee, _Red coral_. - - Feefy, _A species of mimosa_. - - Fatoo, _The belly_. - - Mee mee. _To suck bones_. - - Meedje meedjee, _To suck as a child_. - - Ooree, _A rudder_. - - Tainga, _A seed of a plant_. - - Oolel teffee, _Incisions in the foreskin, which, - contracting, prevent its covering - the glans_. - - Vefoo, _To hide a thing_. - - Laifa, _A silver fish_. - - Heenaheena, _White_; _yellow_. - - Feeoo, _Acrid_; _bitter_. - - Goomo, _To look for a thing that is lost_. - - Eeta, _Angry_. - - Aneafee, _Yesterday_. - - Gefai, _Unknown_; _strange_; _as a strange - man_. - - Fono, _To eat_. - - Kailee tokee, _A Panama shell_. - - Toffe, _A sort of hammer oyster_. - - Toogoo, _Let it lie_, or _remain_. - - Koehaa, hono, hengoa, _What is the name of it_. - - Loee, _To understand_. - - Booga, _To hold fast_. - - Loloa, _Long_. - - Kotjee, _To cut_. - - Fatjee, _To break_. - - Fohenna, _A son_; _a brother_. - - Matee, _A fig-tree_. - - Lohee, _A lie_. - - Mato, _Steep_; _high_. - - Patoo, _A stroke_; _to strike_. - - Hooho, _The breasts_. - - Momoggo, _Cold_. - - Saiouhai, _Admiration_. - - Noo, _Mine_; _of me_. - - Valla, _A piece of Cloth worn round the - waist_. - - Doooyoo, a matoo, eeoee, _A song in favour of a victor_. - - Mulloo, _Serene_; _settled_; _smooth_. - - Vaitte, _To untie a thing_. - - Moheefo, _Come down below_. - - Fetagee; malowhee, _To fight_. - - Tao, _A spear_. - - Eenee, _Now_; _immediately_. - - Mamanna; au manna manna _Engaged_; _contracted to_. - - Fukka booakka, _An epithet of abuse_; _contempt_. - - Aloalo, _To fan_, or _cool_. - - Tammaha, _Certain great chiefs_. - - Tamolao, _Chief_. - - Mahae, _A torn hole_. - - Goefai, _What is_. - - Laoo, _To count_, or _reckon_. - - Manakko, _To give_. - - Fooo, _New_; _lately made_. - - Modooa, _Old_; _worn_. - - Maa, _A sour plantain, by being put - under ground_. - - Kaifoo, _A brownish yellow_. - - Eafee, _To play on the flute_. - - Mou afai? _When do you go_? - - Afaia? _How many_? - - Cheefa, _A pearl oyster_. - - Goee, goee, _A saw shell_. - - Fotoohoa, _A rock oyster_. - - Ogoo, _Of me_; _belonging to me_. - - Lelange, _To make_. - - Behange, _Let me see it_. - - Foo, _To box_. - - Heeva, _A song, with many women singing - different keys_. - - Ooloo pokko, _The head_. - - Koukou, _To bathe_. - - Mabba, _A three kernelled nut_. - - Eelo, _To know_. - - Fotte, fotta, _To squeeze gently with the hands_. - - Fangootooa, _Wrestling_. - - Momoho, _Ripe_. - - Koffe, _Bamboo which they beat with on the - ground_. - - Alla, _I say_. - - Waila, _Hot_. - - Pango, _Bad_. - - Orlongaa, _Thread of which they make their - nets_, or _the plant_. - - Monee, _Truth_. - - Anga, _A shark_. - - Laffa, _Ring-worm_. - - Fooa, _Fruit_; _flower_. - - Kokka, _A tree they stain their cloth - brown with_, i.e. _the bark_. - - Moooee, _Alive_; _life_; _soul_; _God_; or - _divine spirit_. - - Tooo, _A tree with the berries of which - they stain their cloth_. - - Ogoohaika, _Who shall I give this to? Who - shall I help?_ - - Maha, _Finished_; _empty_. - - Pagge, _A little paddle they exercise - with_. - - Faio, _Small branched coral_. - - Cheeagge, _To throw a thing away_. - - Faiee tamma, _Pregnancy_. - - Lalanga, _To make_. - - Vao, _A wild uncultivated country_. - - Neeoo goola, _Cabbage tree_. - - Routte, _Hibiscus_; _rosa sinensis_. - - Foa, _A custom of beating the head with - a tooth till it bleeds_. - - Cheelee neefoo, _A custom of beating the teeth on - the same occasion_. - - Hogga tainga, _A custom of thrusting a spear into - their thighs_; _also a mourning - ceremony_. - - Toofatao, _Thrusting a spear into the sides - under the arm-pits on these - occasions_. - - Tooengootoo, _Doing the same through the cheeks - into the mouth_. - - Kafoo, _The garment they commonly wear_. - - Offa, _A term of friendship_; as, - - Taio offa, _My friend, I am glad to see you_. - - Toofa, _To divide or share out food_. - - Maeneene, _To tickle_. - - Hailulla, _Sarcosma_. - - Hooo, _A wooden instrument with which - they clear away grass from their - fences_. - - Aho, _The dawn_, or _day-break_. - - Gooaa, _Who is it_? - - Avo, _To go_, or _take away_. - - Valle, _Mad_. - - Lelaiee a bee kovee, _Is it good_, or _bad_. - - Taboonee, _To shut_, or _close_. - - Taae, _To beat_, or _strike_. - - Ahae, _Who_, or _where_. - - Mamaa, _Light_. - - Mamaffa, _Heavy_. - - Faike, _A cuttle fish_. - - Vai veegoo, _Wet_; _moist_. - - - VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NOOTKA, OR KING GEORGE’S SOUND, APRIL, - 1778. - - _Nootka._ English. - - Opulszthl, _The sun_. - - Onulszthl, _The moon_. - - Nas, _or_ eenaeehl nas, _The sky_. - - Noohchai, _A mountain_, or _hill_. - - Mooksee, _Rocks_, or _the shore_. - - Tanass, _or_ tanas, _A man_. - - Oonook, _A song_. - - Eeneek, _or_ eleek, _Fire_. - - Nuhchee, _or_ nookchee, _The land_; _a country_. - - Koassama, _The ground_. - - Mahtai, _A house_. - - Neit, _or_ neet, _A candle_, or _lamplight_. - - Neetopok, _The smoke of a lamp_. - - Tassyai, _A door_. - - Ai, _and_ aio, _Yes_. - - Wook, _or_ Wik, _No_. - - Wik ait, _None_, _not any_. - - Macook, _To barter_. - - Kaeeemai, _or_ kyomai, _Give me some more for it_. - - Kootche, _or_ kotche, _To paddle_. - - Aook, _or_ chiamis, _To eat_, _to chew_. - - Topalszthl, _or_ toopilszthl, _The sea_. - - Oowhabbe, _A paddle_. - - Shapats, _or_ shapitz, _or_ chapas, _A canoe_. - - Tawailuck, _White bugle beads_. - - Seekemaile, _Iron_, or _metal of any sort_. - - Ahkoo, _or_ ahko, _This_. - - Kaa, _or_ kaa chelle, _Give it me_, _let me look at it_, - or _examine it_. - - Wook hak, _Will he not do it_? - - Ma, _or_ maa, _Take it_. - - Chakeuk, _A hatchet_, or _hacking tool_. - - Eetche, _or_ abeesh, _Displeasure_. - - Haoome, _or_ haooma, _Food_. - - Takho, _Bad_. _This iron is bad_, takho, - seekemaile. - - Chelle, _I_, _me_. - - Kaeeo, _Broken_. - - Alle, _or_ alla, (Speaking to one) _Friend_; _hark - ye_. - - Klao appe, _or_ klao, _Keep it_; _I’ll not have it_. - - Asko, _Long_, or _large_. - - Iakooeshmaish, _Clothing in general._ - - Tahquoe, _or_ toohquoe, _A metal-button_, or _ear-ring_. - - Wae, (Calling to one, perhaps) _you_! - - Weekeetateesh, _Sparkling sand, which they - sprinkle on their faces_. - - Chauk, _Water_. - - Pacheetl, _or_ pachatl, _To give_; _give me_. - - Haweelsth, _or_ hawalth, _Friendship_, _friend_. - - Kleeseetl, _To paint_, or _mark with a - pencil_. - - Abeetszle, _To go away_, or _depart_ - - Sheesookto, _To remain_, or _abide_. - - Seeaik, _A stone weapon, with a square - point_. - - Suhyaik, _A spear, pointed with bone_. - - Taak, _The wood of the depending pine_. - - Luksheet, _or_ luksheetl, _To drink_. - - Soochis, _A tree_, _a wood_. - - Haieeaipt, _A broad leaf_, _shrub_, or - _underwood_. - - Tohumbeet, _Variegated pine_; _silver pine_. - - Atlieu, _The depending pine_, or _cypress_. - - Koeeklipt, _The Canadian pine_. - - Cho, _Go_. - - Sateu, _A pine top_. - - Kleeteenek, _The little cloak that they wear_. - - Kleethak, _A bear’s skin_. - - Klochimme, _Muscles_. - - Ohkullik, _A wooden box they hold things in_. - - H’slaiakasl, _or_ slaikalszth, _Coarse mats of bark_. - - Eesee, _An instrument of bone to beat - bark_. - - Chapitz koole, _The model of a canoe_. - - Klapatuketeel, _A bag made of mat_. - - Tahmis, _To spit_; _spittle_. - - Wasuksheet, _To cough_. - - Poop, _Common moss_. - - Okumha, _The wind_. - - Chutzquabeelsl, _A bag made of seal skin_. - - Konneeemis, _A kind of sea weed_. - - Quaookl, _or_ tookpeetl, _To sit down_. - - Klukeeszthl, _or_ quoeelszthl, _To rise up_. - - Tsookeeats, _To walk_. - - Kummutchchutl, _To run_. - - Klutsklaee, _To strike or beat_. - - Teeshcheetl, _To throw a stone_. - - Teelszthtee, _To rub, or sharpen metal_. - - Tsook, _To cleave, or strike hard_. - - Mahkatte, _A small liliaceous root which they - eat_. - - Eumahtame, _Fur of a sea otter_. - - Cheemaine, _Their largest fishing hooks_. - - Moostatte, _A bow_. - - Kahsheetl, _Dead_. - - Kleeshsheetl, _To shoot with a bow_. - - Tseehatte, _An arrow_. - - Katshak, _A flaxen garment, worn as their - common dress_. - - Heshcheene, _A plain_ Venus _shell_. - - Koohminne, _A bag rattle_. - - Akeeuk, _A plain bone point for striking - seals with_. - - Kaheita, _A barbed bone point for ditto_. - - Cheetakulheiwha, _Bracelets of white bugle beads_. - - Mittemulszsth, _Thongs of skin worn about the - wrist and neck_. - - Iaiopox, _Pieces of copper worn in the ear_. - - Neesksheetl, _To sneeze_. - - Suchkas, _A comb_. - - Seehl, _Small feathers which they strew on - their heads_. - - Wamuhte, _Twisted thongs and sinews, worn - about their ankles_. - - Kutseeoataia, _Veins under the skin_. - - Tookquuk, _The skin_. - - Muszthsle, _Pain_. - - Waeetch, _To sleep_. - - Siksaimaha, _To breathe_, or _pant_. - - Tuhsheetl, _To weep_. - - Matskoot, _A fly_. - - Matook, _To fly_. - - Kooees, _or_ quoees, _Snow_, or _hail_. - - Aopk, _To whistle_. - - Asheeaiksheetl, _To yawn_. - - Elsthltleek, _An instrument of two sticks - standing from each other with - barbs_. - - Cheeeeakis, _A scar of a wound_. - - Tchoo, _Throw it down_, or _to me_. - - Cheetkoohekai, _or_ Cheetkoaik, _A wooden instrument with many bone - teeth, to catch small fish with_. - - Kaenne, _or_ Koenai, _A crow_, _a bird_. - - Keesapa, _A fish_; _a white bream_. - - Klaamoo, _A bream striped with blue and gold - colours_. - - Taaweesh, _or_ Tsuskeeah, _A stone weapon_, or _tomahawk, - with a wooden handle_. - - Kamaisthlik, _A kind of snare, to catch fish or - other animals with_. - - Klahma, _Wing feathers of a red bird_. - - Seetsaennuk, _Anger_; _scolding_. - - Heeeai, _or_ Heeeee, _A brown streaked snake_. - - Klapissime, _A racoon_. - - Owatinne, _A white-headed eagle_. - - Kluhmiss, _Train oil_; _a bladder filled with - it_. - - Oukkooma, _Large carved wooden faces_. - - Kotyook, _or_ hotyok, _A knife_. - - See-eema, _A fishing net_. - - Weena, _A stranger_. - - Quahmiss, _Fish roe strewed upon pine - branches and sea weed_. - - Kaatl, _Give me_. - - Hooksquaboolsthl, _A whale harpoon and rope_. - - Komook, _Chimæra monstrosa_. - - Quotluk, _or_ quotlukac, _A sea otter’s skin_. - - Maasenulsthl, _An oblong wooden weapon, two feet - long_. - - Hookooma, _A wooden mask of the human face_. - - Tooquacumilsthl, _A seal skin_. - - Cha, _Let me see it_. - - Sooma, _A kind of haddock, of a reddish - brown colour_. - - Aeea, _A sardine_. - - Koeetsak, _A wolf-skin dress_. - - Keepsleetokszl, _A woollen garment_. - - Isseu, _Pine bark_. - - Wanshee, _Wild cat skin_ (lynx brunneus). - - Chastimmetz, _A common, and also pine martin_. - - Ookoomillszthl, _A little, round, wooden cup_. - - Kooomitz, _A human skull_. - - Keehlwahmoot, _A skin bladder used in fishing_. - - Tseeapoox, _A conic cap made of mat, worn on - the head_. - - Summeto, _A squirrel_; _they also called a - rat by this name_. - - Maalszthl, _A deer’s horn_. - - Jakops, _A man_, or _male_. - - Kolsheetl, _or_ Kolsheat, _To sup with a spoon_. - - Achatla, _or_ Achaklak, _What is your name_? - - Achatlaha, _What is his name_? - - Akassheha, _or_ akassche, _What is the name of that_? - - Haismussik, _A wooden sabre_. - - Maeetsalulsthl, _A bone weapon like the_ Patoo. - - Kookelixo, _A fish fin_; _the hand_. - - Natcha. _A fish tail_. - - Klihkleek, _The hoof of an animal_. - - Klaklasm, _A bracelet._ - - Ko, _An article, to give strength of - expression to another word_. - - Nahei, _or_ naheis, _Friendship_. - - Teelsthoop, _A large cuttle fish_. - - Pachas, _He gave it me_. - - Quaeeaitsaak, _A yellow_, or _red fox_. - - Atchakoe, _A limpet_. - - Aheita, _A sweet fern root they eat_. - - Kishkilltup, _The strawberry plant_. - - Akhmupt, _A narrow grass that grows on the - rocks_. - - Klaiwahmiss, _A cloud_. - - Mollsthapait, _A feather_. - - Taeetcha, _Full_, _satisfied with eating_. - - Kaaitz, _A necklace of small_ volute - _shells_. - - Tahooquossim, _A carved human head of wood, - decorated with hair_. - - Moowatche, _A carved wooden vizor, like the - head of a Quebrenta-huessos_. - - Mamat, _A black linnet, with a white - bill_. - - Klaokotl, _Give me something_. - - Pallszthpatl, _Glimmer_ (_sheet_). - - Eineetl, _The name they apply to a goat_; - _probably of a deer_. - - Seeta, _The tail of an animal_. - - Seehsheetl, _To kill_. - - Ooolszth, _A sand piper_. - - Saeemitz, _Chequered straw baskets_. - - Chookwak, _To go up_, or _away_. - - Kloosasht, _Smoked herrings_. - - Keetsma, _Puncturation_. - - Mikeellzyth, _To fasten_, or _tie a thing_. - - Cheeteeakamilzsth, _White beads_. - - Kakkumipt, _A sea weed_, or _grass on which - they strew fish roe_. - - Eissuk, _A sort of leek_; allium - triquetrum. - - Kutskushilzsth, _To tear a thing_. - - Mitzsleo, _A knot_. - - Mamakeeo, _To tie a knot_. - - Kluksilzsth, _To loosen, or untie_. - - Klakaikom, _The leaf of a plant_. - - Sasinne, _or_ sasin, _A hummingbird_. - - Koohquoppa, _A granulated lily root they eat_. - - Seeweebt, _Alder tree_. - - Kaweebt, _Raspberry bush_. - - Kleehseep, _The flower of a plant_. - - Klumma, _Large wooden images placed at one - end of their houses_. - - Aiahtoop, _or_ aiahtoopsh, _A porpoise_. - - Toshko, _A small brown spotted cod_. - - Aszlimupt, _or_ ulszthimipt, _Flaxen stuff, of which they make - their garments_. - - Wakash, _An expression of approbation_, or - _friendship_. - - Kullekeea, _Troughs out of which they eat_. - - Kaots, _A twig basket_. - - Sllook, _The roof of a house_; _boards_. - - Eilszthmukt, _Nettles_. - - Koeeklass, _A wooden stage_, or _frame, on - which the fish roe is dried_. - - Matlieu, _A withe of bark for fastening - planks_. - - Nahass, _A circular hole that serves as a - window._ - - Neetsoanimme, _Large planks, of which their - houses are built_. - - Chaipma, _Straw_. - - Haquanuk, _A chest_, or _large box_. - - Chahkots, _A square wooden bucket, to hold - water_. - - Chahquanna, _A square wooden drinking cup_. - - Klennut, _A wooden wedge_. - - Kolkolsainum, _A large chest_. - - Klieutsunnim, _A board to kneel on when they - paddle_. - - Tseelszthook, _A frame of square poles_. - - Aminulszth, _A fish_. - - Natchkoa _and_ Matseeta, _The particular names of two of the - monstrous images called Klumma_. - - Houa, _To go that way_. - - Achichil, _What does he say_? - - Aeek, _The oval part of a whale dart_. - - Aptsheetl, _To steal_. - - Quoeeup, _To break_. - - Uhshsapai, _To pull_. - - Tseehka, _A general song_. - - Apte, _or_ appe, _You_. - - Kai, _Thanks_. - - Kotl, _Me_; _I_. - - Punihpunih, _A black beating stone_. - - Nootka, _The name of the bay_ or _sound_. - - Yatseenequoppe, Kakallakeeheelook, _The names of three men_. - Nololokum, - - Satsuhcheek, _The name of a woman_. - - NAMES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE BODY. - - Oooomitz, _The head_. - - Apsoop, _The hair of the head_. - - Uhpeukel, _or_ upuppea, _The forehead_. - - Cheecheetsh, _The teeth_. - - Choop, _The tongue_. - - Kussee, _or_ kassee, _The eye_. - - Neets, _The nose_. - - Papai, _The ear_. - - Aanuss, _The cheek_. - - Eehthlux, _The chin_. - - Apuxim, _The beard_. - - Tseekoomitz, _The neck_. - - Seekutz, _The throat_. - - Eslulszth, _The face_. - - Eethluxooth, _The lips_. - - Klooshkooah, klah, tamai, _The nostrils_. - - Aeetchse, _The eye-brow_. - - Aapso, _The arm_. - - Aapsoonilk, _The arm-pit_. - - Eneema, _The nipple_. - - Kooquainux, _or_ Kooquainuxoo, _The fingers_. - - Chushchuh, _Nail of the finger_. - - Kleashklinne, _The thighs and legs_. - - Klahtimme, _The foot_. - - Aiahkomeetz, _The thumb_. - - Kopeeak, _The fore finger_. - - Taeeai, _The middle finger_. - - Oatso, _or_ akkukluc, _The ring finger_. - - Kasleka, _The little finger_. - - - VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF ATOOI, ONE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, - JANUARY, 1778. - - _Atooi._ English. - - Tehaia, _Where_. - - Mahaia, _Ditto_. - - Aorre, _or_ Aoe, _No_. - - He oho, _The hair_. - - E poo, _The head_. - - Papaiee aoo, _The ear_. - - Heraee, _The forehead_. - - Matta, _The eye_. - - Pappareenga, _The cheek_. - - Haieea, _Fish_. - - Eeeheu, _The nose_. - - Oome oome, _The beard_. - - Haire, _To go_. - - Erawha, _Tears of joy_. - - Aee, _The neck_. - - Poheeve, _The arm_. - - Ooma ooma, _The breast_. - - Heoo, _The nipple_. - - Peeto, _The navel_. - - Hoohaa, _The thigh_. - - He, wawy, _The leg_. - - Eroui, _Wait a little_. - - Areea, _Wait a little_. - - Myao, _Finger and toe nails_. - - Eeno, _Bad_. - - Hootee, hootee, _To pluck up_, or _out_. - - Tooanna, _A brother_. - - Teina, _A younger brother_. - - Otooma heeva, _A man’s name_. - - Nanna, _Let me see it_. - - Noho, _To sit_. - - Hoe, _To go_. - - Hooarra, _Sweet potatoes_. - - E Taeeai, _Calling to one_. - - Waheine, _A woman_. - - Teeorre, _To throw away a thing_. - - He, aieeree, _The skin_. - - Ma, ty ty, _To look at_, or _survey a thing_. - - Tommomy, _Come here_. - - Erooi, _To retch_, _to puke_. - - Too, _Sugar cane_. - - Maa mona, _Sweet_ or _savoury food_. - - Tooharre, _To spit_. - - Matou, _I_, first person singular. - - My, ty, _Good_. - - Otaeaio, Terurotoa, _Names of two chiefs_. - - Oome, _A great number_. - - Poe, _Taro pudding_. - - Oohe, _Yams_. - - Booa, _A hog_. - - Eeneeoo, _Cocoa nuts_. - - Ono, _To understand_. - - Eetee, _To understand_, or _know_. - - Otae, _A man’s name_. - - Maonna, _Full_, _satisfied with eating_. - - Owytooehainoa, _What is your name_? - - Tanata, _A man_. - - Tangata, _Ditto_. - - Pahoo, _A drum_. - - Ehoora, _A kind of dance_. - - Maro, _A narrow stripe of cloth they - wear_. - - Hoemy; harremy, _To come_. - - Eroemy, _Fetch it here_. - - Taooa, _We_, first person plural. - - Toura, _A rope_. - - Ooroo, _Bread fruit_. - - Etee, _Dracæna_. - - Appe, _Virginian Arum_. - - Matte, _Dead_. - - Aoonai, _In a short time_; _presently_. - - Paha, _Perhaps_. - - Ai, _Yes_. - - Ateera, _Done_; _at an end_. - - Hevaite, _To unfold_. - - Noona, _Above_. - - Tapaia, _To abide_; _to keep_ or _restrain - from going_. - - Poore, _A prayer_. - - Tahouna, _A priest_. - - Atee, _To fetch_, or _bring_. - - Meeme, _To make water_. - - Ehaia, _Where_. - - Poota, _A hole_. - - Mao, _That way_. - - Mareira, _This place_. - - Eeo, _There_. - - Evaa, _A canoe_. - - Touroonoa, _A man’s name_. - - My ty, _Let me look_. - - Aieeboo, _A vessel of gourd shell_. - - Ahewaite, _Mullus cretaceus_. - - Opoore, _Sparus parvus puctatus_. - - Taee, _The sea_. - - Evy, _Fresh water_. - - Aiva, _A harbour_. - - Eerotto, _Within_, _into_. - - Owyte eree, _What is the chief’s name_? - - Toneoneo, _A chief’s name_. - - Motoo, _To tear_, or _break_. - - Toe, _A stone adze_. - - Vaheeo, _Let it lie_, or _remain_. - - Haieehe, _A barbed dart_. - - Hooroo manoo, _Birds’ feathers_. - - Motoo, _An island_. - - Hamoea, _A ceremony of clapping the hands - to the head, and prostrating - themselves to the chief_. - - Worero, _Lost_; _stole_. - - Aeenoo, _To drink_. - - Tehaia, orooa, _Where are you_? - - Ou, _I_, first person singular. - - Eunai, _Here_; _at this place_. - - Pororee, _Hunger_; _hungry_. - - Hereema, _A species of Sida_. - - Meere, meere, _To look at_, or _behold_. - - Moa, _A fowl_. - - Manoo, _A bird_. - - Dirro, _Below_. - - Modooa, tanne, _Father_. - - Modooa, waheine, _Mother_. - - Naiwe, nawie, _Pleasant_; _agreeable_. - - Hai, raa, _The sun_. - - Hairanee, _The sky_. - - Abobo, _To-morrow_. - - Heaho, _A small rope_. - - Tereira, _There_; _that way_. - - Pymy, _Throw it here_. - - Ewououtte, _Morus Papyrif_. - - Moe, _To sleep_. - - Nooe, _Large_. - - Poowha, _To yawn_. - - Ahaia, _When_; _at what time_. - - Wehai, _To uncover and undo a thing_. - - Tooto, _A small straw rope_. - - Eaha, nai, _What is this_? - - Maeea, _Plantains_. - - Parra, _Ripe_; as _ripe fruit_. - - Toe, toe, _Cold_. - - Matanee, _The wind_. - - Etoo, _To rise up_. - - Hairetoo, _To go there_. - - Hoatoo, _To give_. - - Eeapo, _Night_. - - Eahoiahoi, _Evening_. - - Oora, _Red feathers_. - - Teehe, _A present of cloth_. - - Herairemy, _A place on which fruit is laid as - an offering to God_. - - Henananoo, _A square pile of wicker work_, or - _religious obelisk_. - - Hereeere, _A burying-ground_. - - Eteepappa, _The inside of a burying ground_. - - Harre, _A house_. - - Harre pahoo, _A drum house in a burying-ground_. - - Heneene, _A wall_, _the wall of a - burying-ground_. - - Heho, _A stone set up in a burying ground - consecrated to the Deity_. - - Eatooa, _A god_. - - Tangaroa, _The name of the god of the place - we were at_. - - None, _Morinda citrifolia_. - - Hereanee, _Small twig things in a - burying-ground_. - - Hemanaa, _A house_, or _hut, where they bury - their dead_. - - Herooanoo, _Wooden images in a burying-house_. - - Tooraipe, _A kind of head-dress_, or _helmet - on an image_. - - Eahoi, _Hire_. - - Pohootoo noa, _A cream-coloured whet-stone_. - - Poota paire, _A district at the western part of - the isle_. - - Eonnotaine, _A short cloak of black and white - feathers_. - - Ottahoinoo, _One article_, or _thing_. - - Epappa, _A board used to swim upon_. - - Oneete, _A kind of cloth_. - - Heorro taire, _A small scarlet bird_, or _merops - scarlatina_. - - Taa, _An interjection of admiration_. - - Epoo, _A bracelet of a single shell_. - - Eou, _To swim_. - - Tearre, _Gardenia_, or _Cape Jasmine_. - - Heoudoo, _A refusal_; _I will not do it_, or - _take that for this_. - - Eeorre, _A rat_. - - Ehooo, _A gimblet_, or _any instrument to - bore with_. - - Epaoo, _or_ ooapa, _There is no more_; _it is done_, - or _finished_. - - Matou, _A particular sort of fish-hook_. - - Erahoi, dehoi, _Thin_; as, _thin cloth, board, - &c._ - - Pattahaee, _or_ heroui, _A sort of musical instrument or - rattle, ornamented with red - feathers_. - - Eappanai, _A plume of feathers they wear_. - - Etooo, _The Cordia sebestina_. - - Whatte, _To break_. - - Oeea, _Yes_; _it is so_. - - Heoreeoree, _A song_. - - Paraoo, _A wooden bowl_. - - Apooava, _A shallow wooden dish they drink - ava out of_. - - Etoohe, toohee, _A particular sort of cloth_. - - Ootee, _or_ otee, otee, _To cut_. - - Pappaneeheomano, _A wooden instrument beset with - shark’s teeth, used to cut up those - they kill_. - - Maheine, _A wife_. - - Homy, _Give me_. - - Moena, _or_ moenga, _A mat to sleep on_. - - Eeno, _An adjunct, when they express any - thing good, though by itself it - signifies bad. Thus they say_, - Erawha eeno, _good greeting, as the - Otaheiteans say_, Ehoa eeno, _or my - good friend_. - - Taboo, _or_ tafoo, _Any thing not to be touched, as - being forbid. This is an example - that shows the transmutation of the - H, F, and B into each other. Thus - at Otaheite yams are_ oohe, _at - Tonga_ oofe, _at New Caledonia_ - oobe, _and here_ taboo _is_ tafoo. - - Maooa, _I_, first person singular. - - Heno, _Little rods, about five feet long, - with a tuft of hair on the small - end_. - - Patae, _Salt_. - - Aheia, _A round pearl shell_. - - Teanoo, _The cold arising from being in the - water_. - - Tammata, _The sense of taste_. - - Ootoo, _A louse_. - - Ehone, _To salute by applying one nose to - the other_. Ehogge _at New - Zealand, and_ Ehoe _at Otaheite_. - - My, _A sore of any kind_. - - Oura, _or_ ouraa, _Cured_; _recovered_; _alive_; - _well_. - - Mango, _A shark_. - - Te _and_ he, _The_. - - Heneeoohe, _An instrument made of a shark’s - tooth fixed on a wooden handle, to - cut with_. - - Eea, _An adjunct, as at Otaheite, to - give strength to an expression_. - - Paoo roa, _Quite done_; _finished_. - - Ee, _At_. - - Taira, _That_; _the other_. - - Ahoo aura, _Red cloth_. - - Henaro, _A fly_. - - Ehateinoa, _What is the name of that?_ - - Heweereweere, _An outrigger of a canoe_. - - Mawaihe, _The sail of a canoe_. - - Eheou, _The mast of a canoe_. - - Hetoa, _The yard of a sail_. - - Ooamou, _Fast_; _secure_; _sound_; _whole_. - - Hono, _To go_; _to move_. - - Matou, _Fear_. - - Pooa, _An arrow_. - - Teeto, _A bow_. - - Epaee, _Wooden bowls made from the Etooo_. - - Ohe, _Bamboo_. - - Henaroo, _The swell of the sea_. - - Motoo, _Land_. - - Ehetoo, _A star_. - - Marama, _The moon_. - - Ouameeta, _A man’s name_. - - _Numerals to Ten, as at_ Otaheite. - - - TABLE to show the affinity between the LANGUAGES spoken at OONALASHKA - and NORTON SOUND, and those of the GREENLANDERS and ESQUIMAUX. - - English. _Ooonalashka._ _Norton Sound._ _Greenland from _Esquimaux._ - Crantz._ - - _A man_, Chengan ---- Angut - - _A woman_, Anagogenach - - _The head_, Kameak ---- ---- Ne-aw-cock - - _The hair_, Emelach Nooit ---- New-rock - - _The eye brow_, Kamlik Kameluk ---- Coup-loot - - _The eye_, Dhac Enga ---- Ehich - - _The nose_, Anosche Ngha ---- Cring-yauk - - _The cheek_, Oolooeik Oollooak ---- Ou-lu-uck-cur - - _The ear_, Tootoosh Shudeka ---- Se-u-teck - - _The lip_, Adhee Hashlaw - - _The teeth_, Agaloo - - _The tongue_, Agonoc - - _The beard_, Engelagoong Oongai - - _The chin_, Ismaloch Tamluk ---- Taplou - - _The neck_, Ooioc ---- ---- Coon-e-soke - - _The breast_, Shimsen ---- ---- Suck-ke-uck - - _The arm_, Toolak Dallek ---- Telluck - - _The hand_, Kedhachoonge Aishet ---- Alguit - - _The finger_, Atooch - - _The nails_, Cagelch Shetooe - - _The thigh_, Cachemac Kookdoshac - - _The leg_, Ketac Kanaiak ---- Ki-naw-auk - - _The foot_, Ooleac Etscheak ---- E-te-ket - - _The sun_, Agadac Maje ---- Suck-ki-nuch - - _The moon_, Toogedha ---- ---- Tac-cock - - _The sky_, Enacac - - _A cloud_, Aiengich - - _The wind_, Caitchee - - _The sea_, Alaooch Emai ---- Ut-koo-tuk-lea - - _Water_, Tangch Mooe - - _Fire_, Keiganach ---- ---- E-ko-ma - - _Wood_, Hearach - - _A knife_, Kamelac - - _A house_, Oolac ---- Iglo Tope-uck - - _A canoe_, Eakeac Caiac Kaiak Kirock - - _A paddle_, Chasec Pangehon Pautik Pow - - _Iron_, Comeleuch Shawik ---- Shaveck - - _A bow_, Seiech ---- ---- Petick sic - - _Arrows_, Agadhok ---- ---- Caukjuck - - _Darts_, Ogwalook ---- Aglikak - - _A fish-hook_, Oochtac - - _No_, Net Ena Nag - - _Yes_, or Ah Eh Illisve - _yea_, - - _One_, Taradac Adowjak Attousek Attouset - - _Two_, Alac Aiba Arlak Mardluk - - _Three_, Canoogh Pingashook Pingajuah Pingasut - - _Four_, Sechn Shetamik Sissamat Sissamat - - _Five_, Chang Dallamik Tellimat Tellimat - - _Six_, Atoo _In counting ---- Arbanget - more than five - they repeat - the same words - over again._ - - _Seven_, Ooloo ---- Arbanget - Attausek - - _Eight_, Kamching ---- ---- Arbanget - mardlik - - _Nine_, Seching ---- ---- Kollin illoet - - _Ten_, Hasc ---- ---- Kollit. - - - - - THE END. - - - LONDON: - Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, - New-Street-Square. - - - [_To face the last page of_ VOL. VII.] - - - A Comparative TABLE of NUMERALS, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of - Language, which is found to prevail in all the Islands of the Eastern - Sea, and derived from that spoken on the Continent of Asia, in the - Country of the Malayes. - - [N. B. The Malaye being considered as the root, three specimens of its - Numerals stand separate, at the top of the Table. The derivative - branches are ranged and numbered, according to the longitudinal - situation of the several places, proceeding from Madagascar, the most - Western boundary, Eastward to Easter Island. In the instances marked - with a Star, liberty has been taken to separate the Article from the - Numeral.] - - _Malay._ _Malay at _Malay._ - Sumatra._ - - _One_, Satu, Satoo, Sa. - - _Two_, Dua, Duo, Dua. - - _Three_, Tiga, Teego, Teega. - - _Four_, Enpa, Ampat, Ampat. - - _Five_, Lyma, Leemo, Leema. - - _Six_, Nam, Anam, Nam _and_ Anam. - - _Seven_, Toufou, Toojoo, Toojoo. - - _Eight_, De-lappan, Slappan, Delapan. - - _Nine_, Sambalan, Sambilan, Sambelan. - - _Ten_, Sapola, Sapooloo, Sapooloo. - - _Herbert_, p. _Marsden_, p. _Forster’s - 368. 168. Observations_, - p. 284. - - - I. II. III. IV. - - _Madagascar._ _Madagascar._ _Madagascar._ _Madagascar._ - - _One_, Issee, _or_ Eser Isso Isse - Essa - - _Two_, Rooe Rooa Tone Rica - - _Three_, Tulloo, _or_ Talu Tello Tellou - Tailloo - - _Four_, Efax, _or_ Efar Effutchi Effad Effats - - _Five_, Lime, _or_ Deeme Fruto Limi - Leman - - _Six_, One, _or_ Aine Eanning Woubla Ene - - _Seven_, Heitoo, _or_ Feeto Sidda Titou - Petoo - - _Eight_, Balloo Varlo Foulo Walou - - _Nine_, Seeva Seve Malo Sivi - - _Ten_, Foroo, _and_ Folo Nel Tourou - Fooloo - - _Sir Joseph - _Parkinson_, p. _Drury_, p. _Herbert_, p. Banks_, _Cook’s - 205. 457. 22. Voyages_, Vol. - ii. p. 348. - - V. VI. VII. VIII. - - _Acheen, in _Lampoon, in _Batta, in _Rejang, in - Sumatra._ Sumatra._ Sumatra._ Sumatra._ - - _One_, Sah Sye Sadah Do - - _Two_, Dua Rowah Duo Dooy - - _Three_, Tloo Tulloo Toloo Tellou - - _Four_, Paat Ampah Opat M pat - - _Five_, Leemung Leemah Leemah Lema - - _Six_, Nam Annam Onam Noom - - _Seven_, Too-joo Peetoo Paitoo Toojooa - - _Eight_, D’Lappan Ooalloo Ooalloa De-lapoon - - _Nine_, Sakoorang Seewah Seeah Sembilan - - _Ten_, Saploo Pooloo Sapooloo De Pooloo - - _Marsden_, p. _Marsden_, p. _Marsden_, p. _Marsden_, p. - 168. 168. 168. 168. - - IX. X. XI. XII. - - _Princes _Tagales of _Pampangos_, or - Island._ _Java._ Leuconia_, or _Philippine_. - _Manilla_. - - _One_, Hegie Sigi Ysa Isa, Metong - - _Two_, Dua Lorou Dalava, _or_ Ad-dua - Dalova - - _Three_, Tollu Tullu Tatl, _or_ Ytlo At-lo - - _Four_, Opat Pappat Apat Apat - - _Five_, Limah Limo Lima Lima - - _Six_, Gunnap Nunnam Anim Anam - - _Seven_, Tudju Petu Pito Pitu - - _Eight_, Delapan Wolo Valo Valo - - _Nine_, Salapan Songo Siyam Siam - - _Ten_, Sapoulo Sapoulo Polo _and_ Pobo Apalo - - _Sir Joseph _Sir Joseph _Forster’s _Forster’s - Banks_, _Cook’s Banks_, _Cook’s Observations_, Observations_, - Voyages_, Vol. Voyages_, Vol. p. 284. p. 284. - ii. p. 348. ii. p. 348. - - XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. - - _Island of _Isle of - _Mindanao._ _Isle of Savu._ Savu_, or Ceram._ - _Savoo_. - - _One_, Isa Isse, _or_ Usse Usse O Eeuta - - _Two_, Daua Rooe Lhua O Looa - - _Three_, Tulu Tulloa Tullu O Toloo - - _Four_, Apat Uppa Uppa O Patoo - - _Five_, Lima Lumee Lumme O Leema - - _Six_, Anom Unna Unna O Loma - - _Seven_, Petoo Petoo Pedu O Peeto - - _Eight_, Walu Aroo Arru O Aloo - - _Nine_, Seaow Saio Saou O Teeo - - _Ten_, Sanpoolu Singooroo Singooroo O Pooloo - - _Forest’s _Parkinson_, p. _Lieut. Cook_, _Parkinson_, p. - Voyage_, p. 170. Vol. ii. p. 200. - 399. 278. - - XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. - - _Isle of _New Guinea. _Pappua of New _Terra del - Moses._ 1616. Anno 1616._ Guinea._ Espiritu - Santo._ - - They - named numerals - _One_, Kaou Tika Oser as far as five - or six, the - same as at - Annamooka. - - _Two_, Roa Roa Serou - - _Three_, Tolou Tola Kior - - _Four_, Wati Fatta Tiak - - _Five_, Rima Lima, _or_ Rim - Liman - - _Six_, Eno Wamma Onim - - _Seven_, Lvijtfou Fita Tik - - _Eight_, Eialou Wala War - - _Nine_, Siwa Siwa Siou - - _Ten_, Sanga Poulo Sanga Foula Samfoor - - _Herrera, from _Herrera, Le from _Forest’s _Cook_, Vol. - Le Maire_, p. Maire_, p. 81. Voyage_, p. iv. p. 83. - 82. 402. - - XXI. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. - - _New _New _Malicolo._ _Tanna._ - Caledonia._ Caledonia._ - - _One_, *Wag Eeaing *Par Ai *Tsee Kaee *Ret Tee - - _Two_, Wa Roo Par Roo E-Ry Car Roo - - _Three_, Wat Eeen Par Ghen E-Rei Ka Har - - _Four_, Wat Baeek Par Bai E-Bats Ka Fa - - _Five_, Wan Nim Pa Nim E-Reem Ka Rirrom - - _Six_, - - _Seven_, - - _Eight_, - - _Nine_, - - _Ten_, - - _Cook_, end of _Forster_, p. _Cook_, end of _Forster_, p. - Vol. iv. 284. Vol. iv. 284. - - XXV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. - - _Tanna._ _New Zealand._ _New Zealand._ _New Zealand._ - - _One_, *Ree Dee Tahai Ka Tahe Tahai - - _Two_, Ka Roo Rua Ka Rooa Rooa - - _Three_, Ka Har Torou Ka Tarroa Toroa - - _Four_, Kai Phar Ha Ka Wha T’Fa - - _Five_, K’Reerum Rema Ka Reema Reema - - _Six_, Ono Ka Onoo Honnoo - - _Seven_, Etu Ka Wheetoo Widdoo - - _Eight_, Warou Ka Warroo Warroo - - _Nine_, Iva Ka Eeva Heeva - - _Ten_, Anga Hourou Kaca Haowroo Anga Horro - - _Cook_, end of _Lieut. Cook_, _Parkinson_, p. _Forster_, p. - Vol. iv. 1770. Vol. ii. 128. 284. - p. 61. - - XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. - - _Horn Islands._ _Isle of Cocos. _Friendly _Island of - 1616. Anno 1616._ Islands._ Amsterdam._ - - _One_, Tacij, _or_ Taci A Tahaw Tahae - Taci - - _Two_, Loua, _or_ Loa Loua Looa Eooa - - _Three_, Tolou Tolou Toloo Tooroa - - _Four_, Fa, _and_ D’Fa Fa T’Fa A Faa - - _Five_, Lima Lima Neema Neema - - _Six_, Houw Houno Vano - - _Seven_, Fitou Fidda - - _Eight_, Walou Varoo - - _Nine_, Ywou Heeva - - _Ten_, Onge Foula Onge Foula Ongofooroo - - _Herrera, from _Herrera, from _Forster’s _Cook_, end of - Le Maire_, p. Le Maire_, p. Observat._ p. Vol. iv. - 81. 81. 284. - - XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. - - _Sandwich _Otaheite._ _Otaheite._ _Marquisas._ - Islands._ - - Their - _One_, numerals to Tohe *A Tahay *A Tahaee - ten, the same - as at Otaheite. - - _Two_, Rooa E Rooa A Ooa - - _Three_, Torhoa Toreo A Toroa - - _Four_, Ha A Haa A Faa - - _Five_, Il Lemi E Reema A Aeema - - _Six_, Whaine A Ono A Ono - - _Seven_, Hitoo A Heitoo A Wheetoo - - _Eight_, Wallhea A Waroo A Waoo - - _Nine_, Iva A Eeva A Eeva - - Whannahoo, - _Ten_, Hoolhoa A Hooroo _and_ - Whannahooee - - _Anderson’s _Parkinson_, p. _Cook_, end of _Cook_, end of - Vocabulary, in 64. Vol. iv. Vol. iv. - this Appendix._ - - XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. - - _Marquisas._ _Easter _Easter - Island._ Island._ - - _One_, Bo Dahai Kat Tahaee Ko Tahai - - _Two_, Bo Hooa Rooa Rooa - - _Three_, Bo Dooo Toroo Toroo - - _Four_, Bo Ha Haa, _and_ Fa Haa - - _Five_, Bo Heema Reema Reema - - _Six_, Bo Na Honoo Hono - - _Seven_, Bo Hiddoo Heedoo Hiddoo - - _Eight_, Bo Wahoo Varoo Varoo - - _Nine_, Bo Heeva Heeva Heeva - - _Ten_, Bo Nahoo Atta Hooroo Ana Hooroo - Anna Hooroo - - _Forster’s _Cook_, end of _Forster’s - Observations_, Vol. iv. Observations_, - p. 284. p. 284. - - - - - Footnotes - -Footnote 1: - - We afterward met with several others of the same denomination; but - whether it be an office, or some degree of affinity, we could never - learn with certainty. - -Footnote 2: - - Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the natives of - Owhyhee; but we could never learn its precise meaning. Sometimes they - applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived in the - heavens. We also found that it was a title belonging to a personage of - great rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty much the - Delai Lama of the Tartars, and the ecclesiastical emperor of Japan. - -Footnote 3: - - See Captain Cook’s former Voyage. - -Footnote 4: - - 14 lb. - -Footnote 5: - - Since these papers were prepared for the press, I have been informed - by Mr. Vancouver, who was one of my Midshipmen in the Discovery, and - was afterwards appointed Lieutenant of the _Martin_ sloop of war, that - he tried the method here recommended, both with English and Spanish - pork, during a cruize on the Spanish Main, in the year 1782, and - succeeded to the utmost of his expectations. He also made the - experiment at Jamaica with the beef served by the victualling office - to the ships, but not with the same success, which he attributes to - the want of the necessary precautions in killing and handling the - beasts; to their being hung up and opened before they had sufficient - time to bleed, by which means the blood-vessels were exposed to the - air, and the blood condensed before it had time to empty itself; and - to their being hard driven and bruised. He adds, that having himself - attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken on board - the _Martin_, he salted a part of it, which at the end of the week was - found to have taken the salt completely, and he has no doubt would - have kept for any length of time; but the experiment was not tried. - -Footnote 6: - - See description of the _Morai_, in the preceding Chapter. - -Footnote 7: - - See Vol. vi. book iii. chap. 12. - -Footnote 8: - - Sir Godfrey Copley’s gold medal was adjudged to him, on that occasion. - -Footnote 9: - - The word _matee_, is commonly used, in the language of these islands, - to express either killing or wounding; and we were afterward told, - that this chief had only received a slight blow on the face from a - stone, which had been struck by one of the balls. - -Footnote 10: - - It was evident, that the iron we found in possession of the natives at - Nootka Sound, and which was mostly made into knives, was of a much - paler sort than ours. - -Footnote 11: - - It is to be observed, that, among the windward Islands, the _k_ is - used instead of the _t_, as _Morokoi_ instead of _Morotoi_, &c. - -Footnote 12: - - _Modoo_ signifies island; _papapa_, flat. This island is called - _Tammatapappa_, by Captain Cook, vol. II. p. 222. - -Footnote 13: - - Both the sweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four feet - from each other; the former was earthed up almost to the top of the - stalk, with about half a bushel of light mould; the latter is left - bare to the root, and the mould round it is made in the form of a - bason, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a - certain degree of moisture. It has been before observed, that the - tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Islands, was always planted in low - and moist situations, and generally, where there was the conveniency - of a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture - was absolutely necessary; but we now found, that, with the precaution - above mentioned, it succeeds equally well in a drier situation: - indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Islands is - the best we had ever tasted. The plantains are not admitted in these - plantations, but grow amongst the bread-fruit trees. - -Footnote 14: - - See Vol. VI. - -Footnote 15: - - As this circumstance, of their _singing in parts_, has been much - doubted by persons eminently skilled in music, and would be - exceedingly curious, if it was clearly ascertained, it is to be - lamented that it cannot be more positively authenticated. - - Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips of the Marines, who both have a - tolerable knowledge of music, have given it as their opinion, that - they did sing in parts; that is to say, that they sung together in - different notes, which formed a pleasing harmony. - - These gentlemen have fully testified, that the Friendly Islanders - undoubtedly studied their performances before they were exhibited in - public; that they had an idea of different notes being useful in - harmony; and also, that they rehearsed their compositions in private; - and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear - before those who were supposed to be judges of their skill in music. - - In their regular concerts, each man had a bamboo, which was of a - different length, and gave a different tone: these they beat against - the ground, and each performer, assisted by the note given by this - instrument, repeated the same note, accompanying it by words, by which - means it was rendered sometimes short, and sometimes long. In this - manner they sung in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each - other, according to their different species of voice, but fell on - concords, such as were not disagreeable to the ear. - - Now, to overturn this fact by the reasoning of persons who did not - hear those performances, is rather an arduous task. And yet there is - great improbability that any uncivilized people should, by accident, - arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of music, which we - imagine can only be attained by dint of study, and knowledge of the - system and theory upon which musical composition is founded. Such - miserable jargon as our country psalm-singers practise, which may be - justly deemed the lowest class of counterpoint, or singing in several - parts, cannot be acquired in the coarse manner in which it is - performed in the churches, without considerable time and practice. It - is, therefore, scarcely credible, that a people, semi-barbarous, - should naturally arrive at any perfection in that art which it is much - doubted whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in - music, ever attained, and which the Chinese, who have been longer - civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out. - - If Captain Burney (who, by the testimony of his father, perhaps the - greatest musical theorist of this or any other age, was able to have - done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that these - people sung; and if these concords had been such as European ears - could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact: - but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rash judgment to venture - to affirm that they did or did not understand counterpoint; and - therefore I fear that this curious matter must be considered as still - remaining undecided. - -Footnote 16: - - An amusement somewhat similar to this, at Otaheite, has been - described, Vol. VI. p. 139. - -Footnote 17: - - Voyages made by the Russians from Asia to America, &c. Translated from - the German, by T. Jefferys, p. 37. - -Footnote 18: - - It hath since appeared, from the account of Kerguelen’s voyage, that - this extraordinary person, who had entered into the French service, - was commander of a new settlement at Madagascar, when Kerguelen - touched there in 1774. - -Footnote 19: - - Extraordinary as this may appear, Kraschininikoff, whose account of - Kamtschatka, from every thing that I saw, and had an opportunity of - comparing it with, seems to me to deserve entire credit; and whose - authority _I shall_ therefore frequently have recourse to, relates - instances of this kind that are much more surprising. “Travelling - parties,” says he, “are often overtaken with dreadful storms of snow, - on the approach of which, they drive _with the utmost precipitation - into the nearest wood_, and there are obliged to stay, till the - tempest, which frequently lasts six or seven days, is over; the dogs - remaining all this while quiet and inoffensive; except that sometimes, - when prest by hunger, they will devour their reins, and the other - leathern parts of the harness.” - - _History and Description of Kamschatka, by Kraschininikoff._ - -Footnote 20: - - On this occasion, Major Behm permitted us to examine all the maps and - charts that were in his possession. Those relating to the peninsula of - the Tschutski were made in conformity to the information collected by - Plenisher, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of Plenisher - were afterward made use of, according to Mr. Coxe, in the compilation - of the General Map of Russia, published by the Academy in 1776, it may - be necessary to observe, that we found them exceedingly erroneous, and - that the compilers of the General Map seem to have been led into some - mistakes on his authority. Those in which the islands on the coast of - America were laid down we found to contain nothing new, and to be much - less accurate than those we saw at Oonalashka. - -Footnote 21: - - This bird, which is somewhat larger than the common gull, pursues the - latter kind whenever it meets them; the gull, after flying for some - time, with loud screams and evident marks of great terror, drops its - dung; which its pursuer immediately darts at, and catches before it - falls into the sea. - -Footnote 22: - - From the circumstance, related in the last volume, that gave name to - Sledge Island, it appears, that the inhabitants of the adjacent - continents visit occasionally the small islands lying between them, - probably for the conveniency of fishing, or in pursuit of furs. - - It appears also from Popoff’s deposition, which I shall have occasion - to speak of more particularly hereafter, that the general resemblance - between the people, who are seen in these islands, and the Tschutski, - was sufficient to lead Deshneff into the error of imagining them to be - the same. “Opposite to the Noss,” he says, “is an island of moderate - size, without trees, whose inhabitants _resemble, in their exterior, - the Tschutski, although they are quite another nation_; not numerous - indeed, yet speaking their own particular language.” Again, “One may - go in a baidare from the Noss to the island in half a day; beyond is a - great continent, which can be discovered from the island in serene - weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the island to the - continent in a day. _The inhabitants of the continent are similar to - the Tschutski, excepting that they speak another language._” - -Footnote 23: - - I mention the more early Russian navigators, because Beering, whom we - have also followed, and after him all the late Russian geographers, - have given this name to the south-east cape of the peninsula of the - Tschutski, which was formerly called the Anadirskoi Noss. - -Footnote 24: - - See Chart in Coxe’s Account of Russian Discoveries. - -Footnote 25: - - See Gmelin, pages 369, 374. - -Footnote 26: - - See all that is known of his voyage, and a chart of his discoveries, - in Mr. Coxe’s _Account of Russian Discoveries between Asia and - America_. We were not able to learn from the Russians in Kamtschatka, - a more perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr. Coxe; - and yet they seemed disposed to communicate all that they really knew. - Major Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had - miscarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under - much blame. It appeared evidently, that he had been on the coast of - America to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the latitude - of 64° and 65°; and it is most probable, that his having got too far - to the northward to meet with sea-otters, which the Russians, in all - their attempts at discoveries, seem to have principally in view, and - his returning without having made any that promised commercial - advantages, was the cause of his disgrace, and of the great contempt - with which the Russians always spoke of this officer’s voyage. - - The cluster of islands, placed in Synd’s chart, between the latitude - of 61° and 65°, is undoubtedly the same with the island called, by - Beering, St. Laurence’s, and those we named Clerke’s, Anderson’s, and - King’s Islands; but their proportionate size, and relative situation, - are exceedingly erroneous. - -Footnote 27: - - Krascheninicoff says, that the tree here spoken of is a dwarf cedar, - for that there is not a pine in the peninsula. - -Footnote 28: - - Krascheninicoff says, that the natives likewise convert the bark into - a pleasant wholesome food, by stripping it off whilst it is young and - green, and cutting it into long narrow stripes, like _vermicelli_, - drying it, and stewing it afterward along with their _caviar_. - -Footnote 29: - - Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different species of this - plant. - -Footnote 30: - - _Lonicera pedunculis bifloris, floribus infundibili formis, baccâ - solitariâ, oblongâ, angulosâ._ Gmel. Flor. Sib. - -Footnote 31: - - _Myrtillus grandis cæruleus._ - -Footnote 32: - - _Epilobium._ - -Footnote 33: - - _Chœrophyllum seminibus levibus._ - -Footnote 34: - - _Tradescantia fructu molli edulo._ - -Footnote 35: - - _Bistorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, accuminatis._ - -Footnote 36: - - _Jacobea foliis cannabis._ Steller. - -Footnote 37: - - _Anemonoides et ranunculus._ - -Footnote 38: - - Gmel. Sib. tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV. - -Footnote 39: - - _Canis vulpes._ - -Footnote 40: - - _Mustela zibellina._ - -Footnote 41: - - Rivers emptying themselves into the Lena, near its source. - -Footnote 42: - - _Canis casopus._ - -Footnote 43: - - _Lepus timidus._ - -Footnote 44: - - _Mus citellus._ - -Footnote 45: - - _Mustela erminia._ - -Footnote 46: - - _Mustela nivalis._ - -Footnote 47: - - _Ursus luseus._ - -Footnote 48: - - Krascheninicoff relates, that this small animal frequently destroys - deer, and the wild mountain sheep, in the following way: they scatter - at the bottom of trees bark and moss, which those animals are fond of: - and whilst they are picking it up, drop suddenly upon them, and - fastening behind the head, suck out their eyes. - -Footnote 49: - - The Koriacks make use of a very simple method of catching bears. They - suspend, between the forks of a tree, a running noose, within which - they fasten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is - caught sometimes by the neck, and sometimes by the paw. - -Footnote 50: - - _Crapra amon._ - -Footnote 51: - - Mr. Steller has made the following scale of its cry: - -[Illustration: a-an-gitche a-an-gitche] - - For a further account of this bird, I must refer the reader to - Krascheninicoff, vol. ii. part 4. - -Footnote 52: - - _Anas picta, capite pulchrè fasciato._ Steller. - -Footnote 53: - - _Falco leucocephalus._ - -Footnote 54: - - _Vultur albiulla._ - -Footnote 55: - - _Mustela lutris._ - -Footnote 56: - - English Translation, p. 59. - -Footnote 57: - - The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in this part of the voyage are - marked in this list with a double asterisk. - -Footnote 58: - - The birds which are not described by Linnæus, are referred to the - History of Birds, now publishing by Mr. Latham, surgeon, in Dartford - Kent. - -Footnote 59: - - I never saw this; but it is mentioned by Mr. Ellis. I had omitted it - in my zoologic part. - -Footnote 60: - - It is proper to remark, that Atlassoff sent an advanced party, under - the command of a subaltern, called Lucas Moloskoff, who certainly - penetrated into Kamtschatka, and returned with an account of his - success before Atlassoff set out, and is therefore not unjustly - mentioned as the discoverer of Kamtschatka. - -Footnote 61: - - This river empties itself into the Jenesei. - -Footnote 62: - - Thirty-six pounds English. - -Footnote 63: - - Spanberg places the island here spoken of, in 43° 50ʹ north latitude, - and mentions his having watered upon it; and that this watering party - brought off eight of the natives, of whom he relates the following - circumstances: That their bodies were covered all over with hair; that - they wore a loose striped silk gown, reaching as low as their ankles; - and that some of them had silver rings pendant from the ears: that, on - spying a live cock on deck, they fell on their knees before it; and - likewise before the presents that were brought out to them, closing - and stretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads at the same - time down to the ground; that, except the peculiarity of their - hairiness, they resembled the other Kurile islanders in their features - and figure, and spoke the same language. The journal of the ship - Castricom also mentions this circumstance of the inhabitants of the - country discovered by them, and called Jeso, being hairy all over the - body. - -Footnote 64: - - This accounts for what Krascheninicoff says, that he got from - Paramousir a japanned table and vase, a scimetar, and a silver ring, - which he sent to the cabinet of her imperial majesty at Petersburg. - And if what M. Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was - interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited, - that nearly the same language is spoken at Kunashir and Paramousir, it - cannot be questioned that some intercourse has always subsisted - between the inhabitants of this extensive chain of islands. - -Footnote 65: - - The vessel here spoken of was from Satsma, a port in Japan, bound for - another Japanese port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and - silks. She sailed with a favourable wind; but, before she reached her - destination, was driven out to sea by a violent storm, which carried - away her masts and rudder. - - On the storm’s abating, not one of the crew, which consisted of - seventeen (having probably never made other than coasting voyages), - knew where they were, or what course to steer. After remaining in this - situation six months, they were driven on shore near the promontory - Lopatka; and having cast out an anchor, began to carry on shore such - articles as were necessary to their existence. They next erected a - tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days, without seeing a human - being, when chance conducted a Cossack officer, called Andrew - Chinnicoff, with a few Kamtschadales to their habitation. The poor - unfortunate Japanese, overwhelmed with joy at the sight of - fellow-creatures, made the most significant tenders they were able, of - friendship and affection; and presented their visitors with silks, - sabres, and a part of whatever else they had brought from the ship. - The treacherous Chinnicoff made reciprocal returns of kindness and - good-will; and, after remaining with them long enough to make such - observations as suited his designs, withdrew from them in the night. - The Japanese, finding that their visitors did not return, knew not - what course to take. In despair they manned their boat, and were - rowing along the coast in search of a habitation, when they came up - with their vessel which had been driven ashore, and found Chinnicoff - and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the - sake of the iron. This sight determined them to continue their course, - which Chinnicoff perceiving, ordered his men to pursue and massacre - them. The unfortunate Japanese, seeing a canoe in pursuit, and which - they could not escape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them - leaped into the sea; others, in vain, had recourse to prayer and - intreaties. They were all massacred but two, by the very sabres they - had presented to their supposed friends a few days before. One of the - two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied - his father, the ship’s pilot, to learn navigation; the other was a - middle-aged man, the supercargo, and called Sosa. - - Chinnicoff soon met with the punishment due to his crimes. The two - strangers were conducted to Petersburg, where they were sent to the - academy, with proper instructors and attendants; and several young men - were, at the same time, put about them for the purpose of learning the - Japanese language. - - They were thrown on the coast of Kamtschatka in 1730. The younger - survived the absence from his country five, the other six years. Their - portraits are to be seen in the cabinet of the empress at Petersburg. - - _Vid. Krascheninicoff_, vol. ii. part 4. _Fr. Ed._ - -Footnote 66: - - From Muller’s account of the course steered by Captain Spanberg, in - his route from Kamtschatka to Japan, it appears that he must also - undoubtedly have seen De Gama’s Land, if it really has the extent - given it in Mr. D’Anville’s maps. Walton, who commanded a vessel in - the same expedition, seems also to have looked in vain for this land - on his return from Japan; and three years afterward, on account of - some doubts that had arisen respecting Spanberg’s course, Beering went - directly in search of it as low as the latitude of 46°.—_See Voyages - et Découvertes_, &c. p. 210, _et seq._ - -Footnote 67: - - See Book vi. chap. i. p. 149. - -Footnote 68: - - This land was seen by the Dutchmen who sailed in the Castricom and - Breskes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America. - There now remains scarce any doubt of its being the islands of Ooroop - and Nadeegsda. See the Journals of the Castricom and Breskes, - published by Wetzer. - -Footnote 69: - - This land was also discovered by the Castricom; and, from its - situation, as described in the journal of that vessel, it appears to - be the islands of the Three Sisters. - -Footnote 70: - - The country of Jeso, which has so long been a stumbling-block to our - modern geographers, was first brought to the knowledge of Europeans by - the Dutch vessels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears, - from the earliest accounts, to have been well known, both to the - Japanese and the Kamtschadales; and used by them indiscriminately, for - all the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Japan. It has since been - applied to a large imaginary island, or continent, supposed to have - been discovered by the Castricom and Breskes; and it may not, - therefore, be improper to consider the grounds of this mistake, as far - as can be collected from the journals of this expedition. The object - of the voyage in which those ships were engaged, was to explore the - eastern shore of Tartary; but, being separated by a storm off the - south-east point of Japan, they sailed in different tracks along the - east side of that island; and, having passed its northern extremity, - proceeded singly on their intended expedition. - - The Castricom, commanded by De Vries, steering northward, fell in with - land on the third day, in latitude 42°. He sailed along the south-east - coast about sixty leagues in a _constant fog_; and having anchored in - various places, held a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Thus - far the journal. Now, as the islands of Matimai, Kunashir, and Zellany - appear, from Captain Spanberg’s discoveries, to lie exactly in this - situation, there can be no doubt of their being the same land; and the - circumstance of the fog sufficiently accounts for the error of De - Vries, in imagining them to be one continent, without having recourse - to the supposition of an earthquake, by which Mr. Muller, from his - desire to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the latter - Russian discoveries, conceives the several parts to have been - separated. The journal then proceeds to give an account of the - discovery of Staten Island and Company’s Land, of which I have already - given my opinion, and shall have occasion to speak hereafter. Having - passed through the Straits of De Vries, says the journal, they entered - a vast, wild, and tempestuous sea, in which they steered, through - mists and darkness, to the 48° latitude north; after which they were - driven by contrary winds to the southward, and again fell in with land - to the westward, in latitude 45°, which they unaccountably still - imagined to be part of the continent of Jeso; whereas, whoever - examines Jansen’s map of their discoveries (which appears to be - exceedingly accurate, as far as his information went), will, I - believe, have no doubt, that they were, at this time, on the coast of - Tartary. Having traced this land four degrees to the northward, they - returned to the southward through the straits they had passed before. - - It is not necessary to trouble the reader with the journal of the - Breskes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already - republished, and very satisfactorily animadverted upon by Mr. Muller.— - _Voyages from Asia to America_, &c. English Translation, p. 78. - -Footnote 71: - - The only authentic survey of the eastern coast of Japan with which I - am acquainted, is that published by Jansen in his Atlas, and compiled - with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Castricom and - Breskes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the - situations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to - the corresponding points and head lands seen by us along the coast. - - Jansen places the northern extremity of Japan in latitude 40° 15ʹ The - point seen by us was in latitude 40° 27ʹ. - -Footnote 72: - - This town is called by Jansen, Nabo. - -Footnote 73: - - Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215. - -Footnote 74: - - _Lage Hoeck_, or Low Point, is placed by Jansen in latitude 36° 40ʹ. - -Footnote 75: - - _Witte Hoeck_, placed by Jansen in latitude 35° 24ʹ. - -Footnote 76: - - _Sanduynege Hoeck_, in latitude 35° 55ʹ. Jansen. - -Footnote 77: - - See Kæmpfer’s Hist. of Japan, vol. i. p. 92, 93, 94, and 102. - -Footnote 78: - - “J’ai _vérifié_ moi-même, avec plusieurs Chinois, la population de - Canton, de la ville de Tartare, et de celle de Battaux,” &c. _Voyage - aux Indes, &c._ par M. Sonnerat, tom. ii. p. 14. - -Footnote 79: - - A catty is 18 oz.—a pecul 100 catty. - -Footnote 80: - - The English settled here in the year 1702, when the factory of Chusan, - on the coast of China, was broken up, and brought with them some - Macassar soldiers, who were hired to assist in building a fort; but - the president not fulfilling his engagement with them, they watched an - opportunity, and one night murdered all the English in the fort. Those - without the fort hearing a noise, took the alarm and ran to their - boats, very narrowly escaping with their lives, but not without much - fatigue, hunger, and thirst, to the Johore dominions, where they were - treated with great humanity. Some of these afterward went to form a - settlement at Benjar-Massean, on the island of Borneo. _East India - Directory_, p. 86. - -Footnote 81: - - Neptune Oriental. - -Footnote 82: - - _Vide_ Dampier, vol. i. p. 392. - -Footnote 83: - - Dampier, vol. i. p. 390. - -Footnote 84: - - The island of Tamarin, or Sambouricou, which lies about four leagues - to the north of Cracatoa, may be easily mistaken for the latter, - having a hill of nearly the same size and form, situated also near its - southern extremity. - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -This book uses inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, which were -retained in the ebook version. Some corrections have been made to the -text, including normalizing punctuation. Further corrections are noted -below: - - p. vii: by the Way of Kamptschatka -> by the Way of Kamtschatka - p. v: Description of Carakakooa Bay -> Description of Karakakooa Bay - p. 20: Missing chapter heading inserted per table of contents - Footnote 7: See Vol. ii. book iii. chap. 12. -> See Vol. vi. book iii. - chap. 12. - p. 47: in which these qualites were displayed -> in which these - qualities were displayed - p. 87: I was suprised -> I was surprised - p. 96: which countinued to be -> which continued to be - p. 97: more populous that the verdant mountains -> more populous than - the verdant mountains - p. 97: the neigbouring sea abounds -> the neighbouring sea abounds - p. 101: and and the natives -> and the natives - p. 104: the ground was every were broken -> the ground was every where - broken - p. 105: Having giving this account -> Having given this account - p. 108: in the same lattitude -> in the same latitude - p. 130: used to pickled pieces of pork -> used to pickle pieces of pork - p. 149: What may (if anything possibly can) lesson -> What may (if - anything possibly can) lessen - p. 151: Concerning their mariages -> Concerning their marriages - p. 171: exceeedingly neat and clean -> exceedingly neat and clean - p. 172: still to wet to put on -> still too wet to put on - p. 176: Ismoloff in his letter -> Ismyloff in his letter - p. 176 had siezed upon a galliot -> had seized upon a galliot - p. 183 This gave us an opportuntiy -> This gave us an opportunity - p. 186 run a head full speed -> run ahead full speed - p. 269: nor readily to undertand -> nor readily to understand - p. 278: these tracts are found in the greatest numbers -> these tracks - are found in the greatest numbers - p. 280: if the Kantschadales are to be credited -> if the Kamtschadales - are to be credited - p. 283: a particular desscription of Awatska bay -> a particular - description of Awatska bay - p. 284: the land on each side Awatska Bay -> the land on each side of - Awatska Bay - p. 285: objects the more necesary -> objects the more necessary - p. 314: none in the neighboorhood of Awatska -> none in the - neighbourhood of Awatska - p. 327: an extraordinay degree of neatness -> an extraordinary degree of - neatness - p. 328: a knowledge of Kamtschata followed -> a knowledge of Kamtschatka - followed - p. 341: boards of the cieling -> boards of the ceiling - p. 344: Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany -> Matmai, Kunashir, and Zellany - Footnote 65: The were all massacred but two -> They were all massacred - but two - p. 400: with the stores and provisons -> with the stores and provisions - p. 438: a very difficult and embarrasing situation -> a very difficult - and embarrassing situation - p. 448: leaves larged laced scars -> leaves large laced scars - p. 460: by itself signinies bad -> by itself signifies bad - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook -Round the World. 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