diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/62685-8.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/62685-8.txt | 2341 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 2341 deletions
diff --git a/old/62685-8.txt b/old/62685-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1f60e83..0000000 --- a/old/62685-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2341 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's USDA Farmers’ Bulletin No. 64, by George E. Howard - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: USDA Farmers’ Bulletin No. 64 - Ducks and Geese: Standard Breeds and Management - -Author: George E. Howard - -Release Date: July 17, 2020 [EBook #62685] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS’ BULLETIN NO. 64 *** - - - - -Produced by Tom Cosmas - - - - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Text emphasis is dentoed as _Italic_ and =Bold=. - - - - - U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. - - FARMERS' BULLETIN No. 64. - - - DUCKS AND GEESE: - - STANDARD BREEDS AND MANAGEMENT. - - - BY - - - GEORGE E. HOWARD, - - _Secretary of National Poultry and Pigeon Association_. - - - [Illustration] - - - WASHINGTON: - - GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. - - 1897. - - -LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. - - - U. S. Department of Agriculture, - Bureau of Animal Industry, - _Washington, D. C., September 24, 1897_. - -Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith, for publication as a -Farmers' Bulletin, an article on Ducks and Geese, prepared by Mr George -E. Howard, secretary of the National Poultry and Pigeon Association. -It comprises an enumeration of the standard breeds of ducks and -geese, and contains suggestions for their management. The practical -information contained in this bulletin will undoubtedly prove of value -to persons engaged in raising ducks and geese, and its publication and -widespread distribution are respectfully recommended. The illustrations -were drawn by the author from original sketches and photographs, with -the exception of three of the cross-bred geese, which are after the -illustrations published by the Rhode Island Experiment Station, and -the wild goose, which is after the illustration in Wright's Book of -Poultry. The author has received generous assistance in treating of the -practical details from James Rankin, A. J. Hallock, George H. Pollard, -and others who are largely engaged an the raising of water fowls for -market. - - Respectfully, - - D. E. Salmon, _Chief of Bureau_. - - Hon. James Wilson, _Secretary_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - DUCKS. Page. - - Standard breeds of ducks 3 - - White Pekin ducks (illustrated) 4 - - White Aylesbury ducks (illustrated) 5 - - Colored Rouen ducks (illustrated) 8 - - Black Cayuga ducks (illustrated) 10 - - Colored and White Muscovy ducks (illustrated) 12 - - Gray and White Call ducks (illustrated) 14 - - Black East Indian ducks 15 - - Crested White ducks (illustrated) 17 - - Management of ducks 18 - - Starting a plant (illustrated) 19 - - Buildings for breeding ducks (illustrated) 20 - - Brooding houses (illustrated) 22 - - Supplying water (illustrated) 29 - - Feeding 30 - - Mixing feed 32 - - How much to feed 32 - - Oyster shells and grit 33 - - Killing and dressing for market (illustrated) 33 - - Development of the duckling in the egg 34 - - Natural incubation 36 - - Artificial incubation 36 - - - Geese - - Standard breeds of geese 38 - - Gray Toulouse geese (illustrated) 38 - - White Embden geese (illustrated) 39 - - Gray African geese (illustrated) 40 - - Brown and White Chinese geese (illustrated) 41 - - Gray Wild geese (illustrated) 43 - - Colored Egyptian geese (illustrated) 43 - - Management of geese 44 - - Mating and setting 45 - - Feeding and dressing for market 47 - - Cross breeding (illustrated) 48 - - - - -DUCKS AND GEESE. - - - - -DUCKS. - - -STANDARD BREEDS OF DUCKS. - -=Introduction.=--There are ten standard breeds of ducks raised in this -country, as follows: The White Pekin, White Aylesbury, Colored Rouen, -Black Cayuga, Colored Muscovy, White Muscovy, Gray Call, White Call, -Black East Indian, and the Crested White. Of these breeds, the first -six are considered profitable to raise; the two breeds of Calls and the -Black East Indian are bantams, and are bred more for the showroom; the -Crested White may be considered as almost purely ornamental. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.--White Pekin duck.] - - -WHITE PEKIN DUCKS. - -=History.=--Of all ducks for farm and practical purposes none stand -higher in popular esteem than the White Pekin (fig. 1). It is valuable -for raising on a large scale, and is the most easily raised of any. -It is a very timid bird and must be handled quite carefully. It was -imported from China in the early seventies, and has steadily grown in -popularity since its introduction into this country. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Group of White Pekin ducks.] - -=Description.=--The Pekin duck has a distinct type of its own, and -differs from all others in the shape and carriage of its body. By some -it is credited with having a shape much like an Indian canoe, owing to -the full growth of feathers under the rump and the singular turned-up -carriage of the tail. The legs are set far back, which causes the bird -to walk in an upright position. In size these ducks are very large, -some reaching as high as 20 pounds to the pair. Their flesh is very -delicate and free from grossness, and they are considered among the -best of table fowls. They are excellent layers, averaging from 100 to -130 eggs each in a season. They are nonsetters, hardy, easily raised, -and the earliest in maturing of any ducks. The method given in this -bulletin for raising ducks is based on the Pekin as a standard, and the -treatment, food, housing, etc., is given as used by the largest and -most successful raisers of Pekins. Other ducks are judged for practical -qualities by the Pekin. Fig. 2 shows a group of White Pekin ducks. - -The standard-bred Pekin has a long finely formed head, a bill of medium -size, of a deep yellow color, that is perfectly free from any mark or -color other than yellow. The color of the bill is very important for -exhibition birds, and it is not infrequent that one of the best ducks -in a showroom is disqualified for having a faint tracing of black in -the bill. The eyes are of deep leaden-blue color. The neck of a Pekin -should be neatly curved; in the drake it should be large and rather -long, while that of the duck is of medium length. The back is long and -broad; breast is round, full, and very prominent. The body is long -and deep, and the standard gives for adult birds a body approaching -the outlines of a parallelogram. The wings are short, carried closely -and smoothly against the body. The birds can not sustain flight, a -2-foot fencing being ample to restrain them in an inclosure. The tail -is erect, more so than in any other specimen. The curled feathers in -the tail of the drake are hard and stiff. The thighs are short and -large; shanks short and strong, and in color are a reddish orange; toes -straight, connected by a web, and reddish orange in color. The plumage -is downy, and of a faint creamy white throughout. Recently it has been -noticed that preference in the showroom is being given to birds of -whiter plumage. The breeders are selecting as their show birds those -that have the snow-white plumage instead of the creamy white, as given -in the standard. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 8 pounds; adult -duck, 7 pounds; young drake, 7 pounds, and young duck, 6 pounds. - - -WHITE AYLESBURY DUCKS. - -=History.=--The White Aylesbury ducks (fig. 3.) are second to the -popular Pekins for market purposes, and are bred in large numbers in -England and Europe. In this country they are not so extensively bred -as the Pekin, neither have they been found so good as the latter. -These ducks receive their name from Aylesbury, the county town of -Buckinghamshire, England. They are of large size, pairs occasionally -reaching the weight of 18 pounds, the male birds weighing 9 or 10 -pounds, and the female 7 or 8. Birds weighing 15 to 16 pounds to the -pair are the average. - -=Description.=--The head of the Aylesbury duck is long and neatly -formed; the eyes of a deep leaden-blue color; the long, wide bill is of -a pale flesh color or pinkish hue, and should be free from dark spots, -bills marked with black being a disqualification; the neck is slender, -long, and gracefully curved; the body is long and oval; the breast is -full and round; the strong shanks are of brilliant light-orange color; -the wings are strong and nicely folded; the back is both long and -broad, and the tail formed of stiff, hard feathers. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Group of White Aylesbury ducks.] - -The soft white plumage is one of the chief attractions of the Aylesbury -breed, and like most white plumage has a tendency to assume a yellow -hue if exposed to the sun. The beak will also lose its delicate pink -hue and become yellow if exposed to too much sunlight in summer. The -bill of the Pekin should be yellow, but the bill of the Aylesbury -should be a delicate pink or flesh color, and birds intended for -exhibition must possess this quality or they will suffer at the hands -of the judge. Birds raised for exhibition purposes must be guarded -against too much exposure to the sunlight in the summer. Of course, -these delicate points are of no consequence to the market poulterer -other than to show the true type of the breed. - -For farm purposes the Aylesbury is to be recommended, second only to -the Pekin; it possesses the many good qualities of the Pekin, and -can be bred with almost the same success. The advantages claimed for -Aylesbury are the ease with which it is acclimated, thriving in every -country and climate; its early maturity; its great hardiness; its large -size; its great prolificacy, and the real beauty which it possesses. -Raisers recommend for raising exhibition birds one drake to two ducks, -or two drakes to five ducks, all being allowed to run together. Duck -raisers who raise large numbers for market breed them as they do -Pekins, using from four to eight females to one male, according to the -season of the year. Fresh blood is introduced every year to keep up the -size, and breeding stock is seldom kept longer than the second or third -year. - -The Aylesbury being an English duck, it will be of interest to note the -methods employed in their native place for raising them, as given by an -English writer in the following statements: - - In and about the town of Aylesbury very many of the cottagers - maintain, each of them, a set of ducks, about 4 ducks to a drake. - These they keep in any outbuilding attached to their dwellings and, - failing such a place, in the cottage itself. - - From them the "duckers" (dealers peculiar to the trade) collect the - eggs, and generally bargain with the owners for their whole supply at - a given rate for the season. They begin their collection in October, - and the contract is often made for the whole produce up to June. - The breeding stock of a "ducker" who does an average trade consists - of six drakes and twenty ducks; these all run together, and the - brooks and ponds are looked upon almost as common property. They are - separated at night, driven up to their respective homes, well fed - and warmly housed. The eggs which were laid during the nighttime are - set, as soon as possible, under large and attentive hens, for which - purpose good Dorkings and Cochins are considered best. The ducks - themselves are never allowed to sit, though they may desire to do so, - as the result would be almost certain failure. - - Thirteen eggs comprise a setting, and these are easily covered by - a large hen. Hens are set either in fish pads, small hampers, or, - in what we have found most serviceable, the round boxes in which - cheeses are packed. In the bottom of these is placed some lime or - wood ashes, and then a nest of hay or some soft straw; there the hens - must be kept as quiet as possible. Special care must be taken to - guard against the intrusion of rats or other vermin by which the hen - mother may be disturbed and, as is often the case, the whole setting - be destroyed thereby. The period of incubation is twenty-eight days, - and during the last week of that time care must be taken to sprinkle - the eggs daily with lukewarm water, which softens the shells, so that - when the time comes for the duckling to make its appearance it has - not much difficulty in breaking through its covering. When the young - are hatched they should be left with the hen until well nestled, well - dried, and strong enough to stand. Many scores of ducklings are lost - by inexperienced persons through their impatience to remove them from - the nest. The little duckling is at first clad with soft, yellow - down, which gradually disappears as the feathers grow. After a few - days, three or four broods are put together with one hen, which is - quite able to take care of them all. - - For market purposes the treatment of the ducklings is as follows: - They are not allowed to go into any water, but are kept in hovels - or the rooms of cottages, each lot of thirty or forty separated by - low boards. It is no uncommon thing to see 2,000 or 3,000, all in - one establishment. They are kept very clean and dry on barley straw; - their food consists of hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine and mixed with - boiled rice and bullock's liver, cut Tip small. This is given to - them several times in the day for about a fortnight or more. When - they are capable of consuming more they are fed on barley meal and - tallow greaves (cracklings), mixed together with the water in which - the greaves previously have been boiled. Some poultrymen also use - horseflesh to mix with their other food. The above constitutes all - that is necessary to produce early ducklings for the table. - -In plumage the Aylesburys are a pure, spotless white, and feathers -of any other color will disqualify them. Drake and duck vary only in -the ordinary respect of the male bird, showing a very handsome curled -feather in the tail and being of a larger size than his mate. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 9 pounds; adult -duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. - - -COLORED ROUEN DUCKS. - -=History.=--The Colored Rouen duck (fig. 4) is deservedly popular -throughout this country, and is considered one of the most profitable -breeds to keep. These ducks are said to have come originally from -the city of Rouen, in Normandy. It is known that large quantities of -poultry are raised in Normandy, and while there may be no positive -proof that these ducks came originally from that city, large numbers -of birds closely resembling them are to be found in the market places -there. Some writers contend that the name should be "Roan," owing to -their color, but the color itself does not support this contention. The -correct name is Rouen, and "Roan" is undoubtedly a corruption. - -=Description.=--The Rouen duck is a fine market bird, but does not -mature as early as does the Pekin or the Aylesbury. The flesh is -considered very delicate, and the breed is acknowledged to be superior -for table purposes, being easily fattened. The Rouen will be found a -profitable bird to raise on the farm, being hardy, prolific, quiet in -disposition, and of beautiful plumage. Their eggs are not as large as -those of the Pekin, and are diverse in color. - -The Rouen is undoubtedly closely related to the Mallard duck; its -plumage alone would make good this belief. But the shape of the -domestic Rouen duck has been greatly modified from that of the wild -Mallard; the body is grown longer and heavier, with a tendency to drop -down in the rear; the wings have lost the power of flight which the -wild ancestor possessed. The plumage, however, remains almost the same. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Trio of Colored Rouen ducks.] - -The standard-bred Rouen drake has a long, finely-formed head, with -rich, lustrous green plumage; bill long and broad, wider at the -extremity, of greenish-yellow color, with a black bead at the tip; -the neck is long, slender, and neatly curved, covered with the same -lustrous green plumage as the head, which is interrupted by a distinct -white ring, not quite complete behind, on the lower part of neck. The -back is long, the upper part being ashy gray, mixed with green, and -running into a rich, lustrous green on the lower part and rump; the -shoulder coverts are gray, striped with fine, wavy lines of brown. The -breast is broad and deep and purplish brown or claret color, perfectly -free from gray feathers; the claret color should extend down as far -as possible toward the legs. The body is long, deep, and broad, the -under part and sides being a beautiful gray, which grows lighter near -the vent, ending in solid black just beneath the tail. The wings are -short and carried closely and smoothly against the sides; in color the -wings are of a brownish gray, interspersed with green, and marked with -a band of rich purple, with metallic reflections of green and blue -lights, and edged with distinct white bands; the primary feathers are -of a dark, dusky brown. The tail feathers are hard and stiff, and of a -dark ashy-brown color; the outer edge in old birds is edged with white; -the curled feathers are well curled and hard. The thighs are short and -stout and of ashy-gray plumage; the shanks are short and strong, and -in color orange with brownish tinge; the toes and webs are of the same -color as the shanks. - -The head of the Rouen duck, like that of the drake, is long and finely -formed, but with a deep-brown plumage and two stripes of lighter brown -extending from the beak to behind the eyes; bill, long, broad, and -somewhat flat, brownish orange in color, blotched with darker shade -upon the upper part and ending in a black beam at the tip. The neck -is neatly curved, long and slender, light brown in plumage, penciled -with a darker shade of the same color; unlike the drake, there is no -white ring on the neck. The back is long, of a light-brown color richly -marked with green; breast, full and round and of dark-brown plumage, -penciled with lighter brown; body, long, deep, and broad, the under -part and sides of plumage being grayish brown, each feather penciled -with rich dark brown to the point of the tail. The wings are short for -the size of the bird and are carried closely against the sides; the -color of the plumage is grayish brown, intermingled with green, with -bars of purple edged with white, the colors being distinct; primaries -are brown. The tail feathers are stiff and of a light-brown color, -distinctly marked with pencilings of dark greenish brown; tail coverts -are brown, penciled with the same dark brown, or greenish brown, as the -tail. The thighs are dark brown, penciled; and shanks, toes, and webs -are orange or orange brown. - -Both the Rouen drake and duck, clothed in plumage attractive and -pleasing to the eye, are as much fanciers' fowls as any of the -varieties of chickens, yet they are of much value as market birds. -The only objection to them, aside from their slow maturing qualities, -is that of the dark pinfeathers. This should not stand against them -any more than it does against the many valuable varieties of chickens -that have dark plumage and dark pinfeathers. To the farmer who intends -raising ducks for market purposes they are to be recommended. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 9 pounds; adult -duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. - - -BLACK CAYUGA DUCKS. - -=History.=--The black Cayuga (fig. 5) is distinctly an American duck, -having been bred so long in this country that all trace of its origin -is lost. It is said that it was first found in the central part of New -York, on Cayuga Lake. It was sometimes called the "Big Black duck," and -again the "Lake duck," but is now known only as the Black Cayuga duck. -By some it is supposed to have originally come from the wild Black -duck, and another story has it that it was first found in Dutchess -County, in the State of New York, where a miller was raising a flock of -thirty, which, he said, were bred from a pair he had captured several -years previous in a mill pond. They were kept in the poultry yard, -easily tamed, and built their nests on the edges of the pond and raised -large broods. For many years the Cayuga has been raised in this country -and has been considered by those who have bred it to be a profitable -duck to keep. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Pair of Black Cayuga ducks.] - -=Description.=--By some raisers the Cayuga is considered to be as good -as the Pekin for early markets, and the claim is made that it can be -grown as cheaply. This assertion is not verified by any practical -demonstration, as these ducks are rarely, if ever, seen on any farm -where ducks are raised exclusively. Though raisers generally speak of -their merits as making them profitable, and place them next to the -Pekin for early markets, they prefer the latter for exclusive duck -raising where early maturity and plump carcasses are wanted. Their -black plumage is against them also, and many assign this as the reason -why they are not more extensively bred. The farmer who desires a good, -practical duck to raise on his farm in conjunction with other poultry -will find this a valuable bird to keep. More time can be spent in -dressing it for market than is generally given to the dressing of the -white-plumage birds, and the profits will be proportionately as great. -Duck raisers, like broiler raisers, are partial to white feathers for -market fowls, but those who do not look with this partiality on the -white varieties will find an excellent choice in the Cayuga duck. - -Cayugas are splendid birds for a restricted range and breed well in -confinement; they are quiet, docile, and form a strong attachment for -their home, evincing no inclination or desire to stray far away from -the place where they were bred. They are hardy and prolific, producing -from 80 to 90 eggs in the spring, and sometimes they also lay again -in the autumn. They are easily kept in good condition, but if fed -too liberally they will fatten too quickly and will become too heavy -behind. The ducklings are hardy and easy to raise, and attain good size -and weight at an early age. - -The head of the Cayuga is small, with glossy black plumage; bill rather -short and broad, of dark color, black being preferred; the eyes dark -hazel. The neck is medium, gracefully curved, clad in black feathers -with a greenish luster; the back is broad, and the body long, well -rounded, and very plump, the feathers being of a glossy black hue. The -wings are long and are carried smoothly against the body, and are black -in color, excepting those of the duck, which are sometimes of a dark -brown. The coverts of the drake are a very lustrous green black; the -tail feathers are black, as are the thighs. Black shanks, toes, and -webs are preferred, though dark slate color is permissible according to -the standard requirements. The color of the plumage must be lustrous -black throughout, and feathers of any other color will disqualify a -bird in the showroom. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 8 pounds; adult -duck, 7 pounds; young drake, 7 pounds, and young duck, 6 pounds. - - -COLORED AND WHITE MUSCOVY DUCKS. - -=History.=--Muscovy ducks (fig. 6) form a distinct genus, having -several peculiarities or characteristics which make them different from -others. They are sometimes called the Musk duck, owing to the odor of -musk which pervades the skin, but which is not noticeable when cooked. -These ducks are found wild in the warmer regions of South America. In -Brazil they are extensively domesticated and are prized very highly -for eating. In this country and Europe, particularly in Germany, they -are bred in large numbers. Wild Muscovies are easily frightened and -very good flyers; they fly into trees when alarmed and remain there for -long periods of time before leaving their place of concealment. They -sometimes build their nests in branches of trees, and also in hollows -near water. - -=Description.=--Muscovy ducks are very unsatisfactory birds to keep -on the farm with other poultry, owing to their quarrelsome and -pugnacious natures. In the wild state, before pairing, the males -tight desperately, doing great harm to each other; and this fighting, -quarrelsome disposition is inherited by the domestic duck. The temper -of the drake is spoken of as abominable; his persecution of other -poultry is never ceasing, and he is credited with having attacked -even children when his "dander was up." The flesh of the Muscovy is -considered very good when eaten young, and compares favorably with that -of any other duck. They do not lay nearly so many eggs as the common -kinds. When bred they must be kept in yards by themselves, and their -wings must be clipped to keep them from flying. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Pair of White Muscovy ducks.] - -The head of the Muscovy duck is rather long, and in the drake it is -large, the top being covered with long crest-like feathers, which rise -and fall when the bird is alarmed. The bill is of medium length and -very stout. The face is the most distinctive part of these ducks, the -cheeks being naked, with a scarlet, fleshy space around the eyes, and -the base of the bill carunculated also with scarlet folds. This large, -red face gives them a savage appearance, and to some it is hideous. The -neck is well curved and of medium length; back broad and flat, breast -full and broad, and body long and broad. The wings are very long and -stout, and the tail is rather long, with abundance of stiff feathering. -The drake does not have the curled feathers in the tail, as do other -ducks. - -There are two varieties of Muscovy ducks, the colored and the white. -The head of the Colored Muscovy is glossy black and white; the bill -is dark horn in color; eyes, brown; the back in color of plumage is -lustrous blue black, which is sometimes broken with white; the color -of the breast and body is the same as that of the back. The wing -coverts are rich, lustrous green black, and the tail feathers may be -either black or white, the latter being preferred. The thighs, like the -tail feathers, may be either black or white, white being preferred; -the shanks, toes, and webs vary in color from yellow to dark lead or -black. The White Muscovy in color of plumage is pure white throughout; -feathers of any other color will disqualify the bird for show purposes. -The eyes in the white variety are of a leaden-blue or gray color, while -those of the colored are brown. The shanks, toes, and webs are of a -pale-orange or yellow color. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 10 pounds; adult -duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. - - -GRAY AND WHITE CALL DUCKS. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Pair of White Call ducks.] - -=History.=--Call ducks are bantams, and are bred more for the fancy -than for the profit there is in them for market. There are two kinds -of Call ducks, the Gray Call and the White Call (fig. 7), and it is -only a choice of plumage as to which is the better of the two. They are -both of one character as to size, shape, and habits, and differ only -as regards color. The Gray Call is very similar in color of plumage -to the Rouen, and is indeed called by many the Bantam Rouen, and the -White is generally called the Bantam Pekin. Their uses are only for -the showroom, or as decoy ducks for wild-duck shooting. For the latter -purpose they are sometimes crossed with the common "puddle duck" or -with the wild Mallard. This latter cross is considered excellent, the -progeny being distinguished for tameness and domesticity. - -=Description.=--When breeding Call ducks, smallness of size is the -first consideration; the smaller they are bred the better. The arts -of skillful breeding for the showroom are being used in keeping down -the size of these ducks. Inbreeding has been resorted to, while late -hatching, scanty feeding, and nonbone-making food have been the means -that have retarded their natural development. - -The head of the Call duck is full and round; bill, short and broad; -neck of medium length, and back comparatively short; the breast is -round and full, and body short, round, and compact, with medium-sized -wings; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks short. - -The Gray Call drake is a beautiful little bird, with a rich, lustrous -green head, dark-hazel or brown eyes, lustrous green neck, with a -white ring on the lower part of neck, as in the Rouen. The back is of -ashy-gray plumage mixed with green on the upper part, while the lower -part and rump are a rich, lustrous green. The under part of the body on -the sides is a beautiful gray, which grows lighter toward the vent, and -ends in solid black under the tail. The wings are grayish brown, mixed -with green, and have the broad ribbon-like mark of rich purple with -metallic reflections of green and blue, distinctly edged with white. -The primaries are a dark, dusky brown. The tail feathers are of a dark, -ashy brown, the outer web in old birds being edged with white; the -tail coverts are black, with very rich purple reflections. The bill is -greenish yellow in color, while the shanks, toes, and webs are orange, -with a brownish tinge. - -The duck's head is deep brown, and has two pale-brown stripes on each -side, like the head of the Rouen duck, running from the bill to a -point behind the eyes. Her bill is of a brownish-orange color, and her -eyes are dark hazel or brown. The neck is light brown, penciled with -darker brown; breast, dark brown, penciled with lighter brown; back, -light brown, marked with green, and the under parts and sides of body -are grayish brown, each feather distinctly penciled with rich dark -brown. The plumage of wing is grayish brown, mixed with green, and is -crossed by a broad bar of rich purple edged with white; the primaries -are brown. The tail feathers are of a light-brown color, with distinct, -broad, wavy penciling of dark greenish brown; tail coverts are brown, -with broad penciling of dark brown or greenish brown; thighs are dark -brown; shanks, toes, and webs are orange brown. - -The White Gall is pure white in plumage throughout, and feathers of any -other color will disqualify it. It is in every respect like the Gray -Call except in plumage, in the color of the eyes, which are a gray or -blue, and the color of the shanks, which are a bright orange. - -=Weight.=--No standard weight is given for Call ducks. - - -BLACK EAST INDIAN DUCKS. - -=History.=--Another standard breed of ducks which is hardly considered -a rival of the Pekin, Aylesbury, Cayuga, or Rouen, is the Black East -Indian. This duck bears the same relation to those just named as does -the bantam to the larger varieties of chickens. The Black East Indian -and the Call ducks are the bantam breeds of ducks, being bred more for -their smallness of size than for their profitableness. The same devices -are resorted to in breeding them as were mentioned for breeding the -Call ducks. - -=Description.=--The East Indian duck is hardy, and would, if carefully -bred from the largest and best specimens, grow to a fairly good size, -and be profitable to keep. In weight they seldom grow larger than 2 -to 2˝, pounds each. The close inbreeding to which they have been -subjected has been detrimental to their egg production, while those -strains which have not been so closely bred have proved very prolific. -It may be said in favor of these ducks, that if allowed to increase in -size, which they will readily do under favorable circumstances, they -would prove very profitable to those who prefer keeping small-sized -birds to the larger ones. - -The East Indian duck is very shy in its habits, and is given to long -flights, but if attention is shown them in feeding they become attached -to their home surroundings. They can not be successfully bred in -confinement; their natures are roaming and they like freedom of life. -The first eggs of a litter laid by these ducks are sooty or nearly -black in color, but they gradually grow lighter until they assume the -color common to the eggs of most varieties. They are splendid sitters, -and will invariably steal their nests if permitted to do so, but the -duck and brood when hatched should be confined for a couple of weeks, -that the young may not be exposed until they have gained some strength -and size. - -The head of the black East Indian duck is short and small; eyes dark -hazel; bill rather short. The head of the drake is of a dark yellowish -green, free from all spots or blemishes, and the duck's head is very -dark, almost black. The exact coloring of the bill of the drake is -considered of the utmost importance. It is described by an enthusiast -as being a sort of pale yellow, washed over with blackish green, -the color being laid on thinly, as it were, so as to give an almost -transparent effect, and shaded off at the tip into a kind of slate -color. By another raiser the color of the bill is described as an olive -green. The neck is neatly curved and short; back, of good length and -medium width. The breast is full, round, and plump. The body is long -and comparatively small; wings of medium length and nicely folded; tail -short, and in the drake has the curled feathers. The thighs are short -and stout, and shanks are short and rather small. - -The plumage is a rich black, with a brilliant greenish tint throughout. -The color of the plumage is of much worth to the beauty of these -ducks; it must be intensely black, rich in greenish' reflections, -and perfectly free from white. The plumage upon the neck, back, and -shoulder coverts will show more of the green than will the underparts, -the coloring of the drake surpassing that of the duck. - -It is seemingly a difficult matter to breed specimens of the required -color of plumage; more especially is it so with the duck, whose plumage -is likely to be of a brownish tint. These ducks are quite likely to -show more or less white in plumage. The white feathers usually appear -about the eyes and also upon the breast. Birds that have been free -from white as ducklings have been known to molt almost pure white. The -ducklings when first hatched are black, with a shade of yellow on the -breast, and with jet-black feet, shanks, and bill. - -When breeding these ducks use two females to one male, and the eggs -will prove very fertile. The young will be very hardy after five or six -weeks of age, and there should be no trouble in rearing them after that -time. Give the youngsters free range and they will find nearly their -whole living in grasses, insects, etc. - -=Weight.=--There is no standard weight given for Black East Indians; -the smaller their size the higher they rank for exhibition purposes. - - -CRESTED WHITE DUCKS. - -_History._--The Crested White duck (fig. 8) is what may be called an -ornamental duck, much the same as Polish chickens. They are not bred -to any great extent in this country, and they are very seldom seen in -the showrooms. They have no especial value to the farmer, as better and -more easily-bred birds are to be found in the Pekin and Aylesbury. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Pair of Crested White ducks.] - -=Description.=--These ducks have a medium-sized head; medium-sized -bill; a large, well-balanced crest upon the crown of the head; a rather -long neck; a medium-length back; breast, round and full; body, round -and of medium length; medium-length wings that smoothly fold; hard, -stiff tail feathers, with well-curled feathers in the tail of drake; -and short and stout thighs and shanks. Their eyes are large and bright -and of a deep leaden blue or gray color. The shanks, toes, and webs are -of a light-orange color. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult drake is 7 pounds; adult -duck, 6 pounds; young drake, 6 pounds, and young duck, 5 pounds. - - - - -MANAGEMENT OF DUCKS. - - -Duck raising has been developed within the last ten years into a -flourishing industry. Prior to that time the duck was not considered -a profitable fowl to raise; its flesh was never prized very highly -by the masses. Ducks were raised without constraint in waterways, -feeding mostly on fish and water insects. This food gave the flesh a -strong fishy flavor; hence it was not particularly sought after, save -by the few who were partial to that class of diet. The duck centers -of Long Island and New England were then producing a limited number -each season, and it was with difficulty that these were sold with any -profit. In fact, one of the most prominent duck raisers may be quoted -as saying that he was obliged to visit the city markets personally and -tease the dealers to purchase his birds, in order to secure anything -like satisfactory prices. - -Artificial incubation and brooding, combined with judicious feeding, -have been instrumental in the development of the industry. Machinery -has enabled the duck raiser to accomplish his ambition of having his -stock in the markets when prices are the best, and also of raising -large numbers of birds in a limited space of time. The season for -raising ducks is about six months--from February to July. The methods -employed by the most successful raisers will be given in this bulletin, -and the most approved buildings, appliances, feeding, and care will be -treated in detail. - -Duck raising is to be recommended to farmers as a profitable source of -revenue; and by careful attention to the work, as knowledge increases, -the scope of the industry may be extended. There are numbers of farms -in this country to-day that are devoted exclusively to raising ducks, -averaging from 5,000 to 20,000 ducks as an annual output. An idea of -the proportions of the business may be had from the fact that as high -as three tons of feed are used daily by a single raiser during the -busy season. The profits are the very best, and good incomes may be -made when once the business is thoroughly mastered. But the reader -should not jump imprudently to the conclusion that these results can be -easily obtained. Duck raising is an arduous task; one that requires an -apprenticeship and absolute knowledge of the business before success is -reached. Those who have been successful in raising ducks have learned -the business much as one does any other vocation. The beginner should -start modestly, and increase his plant as his knowledge of the work -increases. The average farmer has all the facilities for raising a -goodly number of ducks, and may with a little outlay add considerably -to his income. - -It is not at all necessary that ducks should have access to water to -be raised successfully; they grow and thrive as readily without. There -are successful plants where thousands of ducks are raised that have no -water, save that which is given them as drink. It has been a matter of -much dispute which is the better way. Some duck raisers use water and -allow their breeders the freedom of it; some allow their growing stock -intended for market free access to water until they are eight weeks -old, when they are penned and fattened for market. On the other hand, -there are raisers who have no water on their farms, excepting wells, -who are just as successful and raise as many birds as those who have -the water. The only noticeable difference between "upland" and "water" -ducks is that the latter are of prettier and cleaner plumage than the -former. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Plans for a duck plant.] - - -STARTING A PLANT. - -A duck plant should be located on a line of railroad in direct -communication with the city markets, and not too far from the station. -Almost any location will do for the plant, and worn-out land, that -can be had cheap, will do as well as the richer and more fertile land -costing several times as much. Sandy sod is to be preferred. The -buildings should be arranged to secure good drainage and be convenient -to each other, that labor may be reduced to a minimum. The labor -attached to raising poultry is an item that is overlooked by many, and -the cost of it often reduces very notably the earnings of the plant. - -Every department of the plant should be so located as to economize the -time of the attendants. The incubator cellar should be convenient to -the brooder house, the brooder house to the growing house and pens, -and these to the killing house. The feed house should be located -conveniently to the brooder and growing houses and the breeding pens. -The task of feeding the growing stock four times a day and the breeding -stock twice a day is no small one. Watering is also to be thought about. - -The exact arrangement of a plant suited to all locations can not be -given, as each locality differs from others in some respect, and -what may be suitable for one will hardly do for the other. The plans -of no two of the largest plants are alike. They differ in location -of the buildings to suit the lay of the land; but they all have the -same general idea of the convenience of each building to the others. -Illustration of this will be seen in fig. 9. When laying out a plant, -make provisions for future enlargement; allow plenty of room on all -sides to extend the buildings without rendering inconvenient the work -that will be necessary to attend to the additional stock. - - -BUILDINGS FOR BREEDING DUCKS. - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.--House for breeding ducks.] - -Houses for ducks are single affairs. They are built plain and -comfortable, and have no furnishings whatever. A duck is differently -constituted from a hen, and must be cared for under different -conditions. The hen needs warmer houses and drier surroundings than -does the duck. A duck does not mind the cold, if she can keep her -feet warm; cold feet will affect a duck as a frozen comb does a hen, -retarding laying and inducing ailments. The feathers of a duck are -almost impenetrable and will withstand almost any degree of cold. -Again, a duck can not stand the amount of confinement in a house that a -hen can; she is more restless in disposition and is given to exercise -in a greater degree than is a hen. Indigestion is not so prevalent with -ducks as with chickens; the duck's ceaseless motion aids the digestive -organs and keeps her generally in good health. - -In fig. 10 is shown a simple house that may be built at small expense. -It is plain and has a shed roof. Such a house should be built of rough -boards, 12 inches by 1 inch, and joints covered by 3-inch by 1-inch -strips. The roof should be made water-tight and covered with tarred -paper, shingles, or tin. The outside should be well drained around the -bottom, that it may not be damp. Some advocate board floors, raised -from 6 to 8 inches from the ground and covered from 4 to 6 inches -with dry earth, straw, or leaves. The writer favors the using of -board floors in all houses for chickens, but thinks it not essential -for ducks. If the house is well drained on the outside and the earth -floor is covered with hay, straw, or leaves, it will be perfectly -satisfactory. There must not be dampness in the house, as the birds -will not do so well; while they are given to water on the outside they -must have comfortable quarters in which to "warm up," or "dry out." - -The building shown in fig. 10 may be constructed of any dimensions -desired, according to the size of flock to be kept. A house 12 by 14 -feet will accommodate nicely a flock of a dozen. There are no interior -arrangements whatever, simply the floor surface of the building. It is -better not to use nests. Some raisers use a plain nest, as shown in -fig. 11. These nests are made of 1-inch boards, 12 inches high and 16 -inches long, set 14 inches apart, and held together in front with a -3-inch strip. The nests are nailed to the back of the house. But more -than half the eggs are laid on the floor of the house or in the yard, -and, if permitted, a duck will build herself a nest to her liking. -Again, a duck is liable to injure herself by falling over the strips in -front of nests or other obstructions that may be in the house. In fig. -12 is shown the nest of a wild duck. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Nests for ducks.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Nest of wild duck.] - -When two or more breeding pens are to be kept, the plan of the house -shown in fig. 10 may be extended to any length desired, as shown in -fig. 13. In figs. 14 and 15 are shown two more designs of duck houses, -which are practical and cheap, and may be built singly or in rows for -a number of pens. Either of these houses, and also that shown in fig. -10, make excellent breeding houses for the farmer to keep ducks in. -An inclosure should be given the breeding ducks, as they do better -confined than when at liberty. Give plenty of room and inclose the run -with 2-inch wire mesh 2 feet wide. If water is accessible, it should be -inclosed by the mesh-wire fencing of the same width as for the run. In -fig. 16 is shown a duck house with water runs, and also the arrangement -of wire runs in the water. This is an admirable plan for farmers who -have running water on their farms. - - -BROODING HOUSES. - -The general construction of a brooder house is similar to that of the -breeding house, and differs only in interior arrangements. The latter -has no interior arrangements whatever, while the former has the system -of heating and covers necessary for giving warmth to the young stock. -In fig. 17 is shown a design of single-brooder house and ground plan -that is generally used by duck raisers. This house should be built -upon a good foundation and be entirely proof against rats. A good plan -is to sink half-inch wire mesh about 2 feet in the ground and around -the entire inside of the building; this will make it perfectly secure -against rats and mice. - -The accepted plan of a brooder house makes it 15 feet wide and as long -as desired. The building is 4 feet high in front and 5 feet in rear. - - -GROUND PLAN. - -[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Plan and ground plan of five-pen breeding -house for ducks.] - - -It is divided into pens 12 feet long and 6 feet wide, and has a 3 foot -passageway extending the entire length of the building. The ground plan -(fig. 17) shows the general arrangement of the interior and location of -the brooders. - -The brooder box is next to the passageway, or walk, and runs the entire -length of the building. This box is 30 inches wide and 8 inches high; -the sides are 7 inches high and nailed securely; the top of the cover -is nailed across with cleats to make it substantial, and the cover -has an inch strip nailed underneath in front and back to keep it in -position. These strips rest against the 7-inch sides and make the -brooder snug and tight when closed. The heating pipes are directly -beneath the cover and are 2-inch pipes, flow and return. Some prefer -1-inch pipes, using two flows and two returns. When three pipes are -used they should be about 8 inches apart from center to center. These -pipes rest on the partition boards of the pens. The front of the -brooder, leading into the pens, is cut out in the center about 4 inches -deep and 4 feet long (fig. 18, _A_), while the ends and the other side -are solid, being 7 inches high. The construction of the brooder is -clearly shown in fig. 18, _B_, with cover removed, while fig. 18, _C_, -shows cover. The heater is located at the end of building. - -[Illustration: Fig. 14.--House for breeding ducks.] - -Another plan of brooder house is that shown in fig. 19. This house -is known as a double brooder house, with walk in the center and pens -on either side, and with heater at the end. Many prefer this plan to -the single brooder house, as the care and attention required for the -youngsters is much less and the cost of heating is reduced, one heater -being sufficient for both lines of pipes. Then, again, this latter plan -shortens the length of the building by one-half and makes the work more -concentrated. The arrangement of the interior is the same as that of -the single brooder house. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15.--House for breeding and growing ducks.] - -The plans of brooder houses, as given above, are for ducklings from -the time they are taken from the machines until they are ready for the -cold brooder, or growing house. The young ducklings, when taken from -the nest or incubator, are very delicate and susceptible to the changes -of the atmosphere; they must be kept very warm and free from chilling. -The first three weeks of a duckling's life is the most critical period, -and after that time the liabilities of loss are reduced to a very low -rate--hardly five to the hundred. The front of brooders for young -ducklings should be hung with strips of woolen cloth to keep in the -warmth of the brooder. The greatest care should be given them at this -period; the duck raisers really consider it the most important part of -their work, and after a bird has passed the "critical age" they may be -counted on for the market. - -[Illustration: Fig. 16.--House for breeding ducks, showing water runs.] - -Usually the care of the ducklings at this age is given to the women. -They are more careful of the wants of the youngsters and attend to the -detail work religiously. A case is known of a single attendant living, -as it were, in the brooder house with the ducklings. She began her -work with the morning feed at 6 a. m., and until sundown, when the -night's meal was given, she was with her charges. The cleanliness of -the brooder and pen was carefully attended to and everything was done -to promote the health and comfort of the youngsters. At night they were -all in their brooders and as snug as it was possible for them to be. -A single neglect in the starting of a duckling will result in loss to -the raisers. System is the key to the situation, and there should be no -deviation from it whatever. - -[Illustration: Fig. 17.--Single brooder houses and ground plan.] - -The duckling goes from the warm brooder house to the cold brooder -house. The latter house is planned in a way similar to the former, with -the exception of the 30-inch brooders. When the birds are taken from -the warm brooder house they are three weeks old and of sufficient age -to withstand a cooler temperature. They do not need the extra heat of -the warm house, and in it would not grow nearly so well. The size of -pens in the growing house is larger, and the ducklings are not crowded -so many in a pen. If the birds are to be raised in colonies of one -hundred each, the accommodations should be ample for them. It has never -been proved to be good policy to crowd the growing stock; it retards -their growth and encourages disease. - -The cold brooder house should have a system of heating if birds are to -be raised for an early market. The same system of pipes used in the -warm brooders should be run around the sides of the building, about 2 -or 3 feet from the floor. This will give sufficient heat for the house -and keep the birds comfortable. These pipes may be connected with the -same heater used for running the warm brooder pipes. In the Northern -States, in extremely cold weather, raisers also use the heating pipes -in the warm brooder house in addition to the cold brooder pipes. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18.--Plans of brooder.] - -An excellent plan is shown in fig. 20 for the arrangement of the heater -for connecting the pipes in the warm and cold double brooder house. It -will be seen that the heater is placed in the center of the building; -the warm brooder house is shown on the right and the cold brooder house -with runs attached is shown on the left, and pipes, indicated by dotted -lines, run in both directions. This is the most economical house to -build and lessens the work in attending the stock. The room in the -center of the building will be found very useful and is generally used -as the feed room. The heater is in the cellar beneath this room. This -plan is used by one of the largest and most successful raisers of ducks -on Long Island, and it has his highest indorsement. - -The building may be of any size, the plan being as successfully carried -out on a large scale as on a small one. If a small building is used at -first, it may be enlarged on either end to suit the growing business, -and extended upward of 100 feet in either direction, thus making the -building more than 200 feet in length. The heater must be considered, -when put in, with this object in view. A heater capable of heating the -200-foot house can easily be regulated to heat one of 50 feet, but a -heater that will heat properly only a 50-foot or 100-foot house would -be insufficient to heat the larger one. - -Another difference between the cold brooder house and the warm brooder -house is that the former has outside runs attached. These runs are -used for feeding and watering when the weather permits, instead of -the feeding troughs inside the house. The ducks should be allowed the -freedom of the outside runs as soon as the weather is suitable. Ducks -like a life in the outer world, and they will grow more rapidly there -than when they are confined to the house. - -[Illustration: Fig. 19.--Plans of a double brooder house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 20.--Plan of a double brooder house, showing -arrangement of beating pipes.] - -Ducklings are kept in the cold brooder house until they are six or -seven weeks old, when they are transferred to large quarters known as -growing houses. It is here that they are pushed for the market until -they are 10 weeks old, when they are salable. There is no heat in the -growing houses, which are used only as a means of shelter during the -early spring months. When the weather is well advanced, the ducks -seldom take to the houses at night; they prefer the outside and spend -their nights on the ground. The growing houses should be abundantly -ventilated, as too close an atmosphere will do more harm in a single -night than if they had not been housed at all. - -[Illustration: Fig. 21.--House for growing Ducks.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 22.--Two-pen house for growing ducks.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 23.--Three-pen house for growing ducks.] - -A Pekin duck at 10 weeks is quite large, weighing close to 4 pounds. -It is quite as large as a full-grown duck of some of the other breeds. -In the space of two or three weeks from the time the ducklings are -placed in the growing houses they will be marketed at the weight of 4 -to 5˝ pounds each. This weight is easily obtained, and when reached -the profitable time to sell has arrived, as they then command the best -prices. Often a bird kept after this time loses in weight and becomes -unprofitable. The growing houses are built after the plan of the -breeding houses, only much smaller. They need not be more than 4 or 5 -feet high in rear and 1 or 2 feet high in front. Such a house is shown -in fig. 21. This and other houses shown in figs. 22 and 23 may be built -singly or in rows, with 12-inch boards separating the runs. - - -SUPPLYING WATER. - -[Illustration: Fig. 24.--Gutter water trough.] - -As has been previously stated, water for bathing is not at all -necessary for growing ducks, but a liberal supply for drinking is -absolutely essential to their growth. The food of the duck is such as -to require drink when eating, as it is comparatively dry and can not be -eaten hurriedly as grain is. When feeding, always replenish the water -troughs or fountains with pure, fresh water. - -A duck when feeding will eat a small quantity and go to the water -troughs, for drink, repeating this performance several times during the -meal. Conveniences for supplying drinking water to breeding and growing -ducks are varied, and almost any contrivance will answer the purpose. -When small numbers of ducks are kept, the simplest method of supplying -water is in wooden troughs. These may be built V-shape or with square -bottoms. They are shown in figs. 24 and 25. - -[Illustration: Fig. 25.--Flat water trough.] - -For smaller ducks, those kept in the warm brooder house, the fountain -plan is to be preferred, as the youngsters can not get into the water -and become wet or chilled. These fountains may be made of air-tight -cans for the reservoir and a tin plate 2 inches larger in diameter than -the can. A tomato can and an ordinary tin pie plate make an excellent -fountain. Remove the top of the can and punch a small hole in the side -about a quarter of an inch from the free top edge; fill the can with -water and place it inverted on the plate. The water will run out until -it reaches in the plate the level of the hole in the can. The plate -will not overflow and water will be supplied automatically. - -[Illustration: Fig. 26.--Plan for supplying water by pipes.] - -Some raisers use a pan--a pie plate, for instance--and place a stone -several inches smaller in diameter than the pan in the center, leaving -a margin for water around the edge. - -When large numbers of birds are kept, it is of course necessary that a -system for watering be adopted for saving labor. A practical system in -use is where the water is supplied by 1-inch pipes and having a cock -in each pen directly over the water trough. Fig. 26 shows a diagram -drawing of this plan. The flow of the cocks is regulated by having -the one in the first pen run very slowly and gradually increasing the -flow of the water in each pen. Thus all the troughs will be full at -the same time. The pipe should rest on top of the fencing about 2 feet -high which divides the runs. This plan of watering can also be used in -brooder houses to good advantage. - - -FEEDING. - -The food of the duck is both vegetable and animal in nature. In the -wild state it gathers its food from brooks and marshes, consisting -of flag, grasses, small fishes, water insects, etc. When the birds -are raised in confinement this diet must, in a measure, be imitated -to get the most satisfactory results. The duck has no crop, the food -passing directly from the throat to the gizzard, and as a consequence -the food must be in a soft mushy state. Too much hard food, such as -grain, does not agree with these birds and they can not thrive on it. -While some raisers use a small allowance of grain others do not, and -it has not been proved to be of any advantage to feed it. Soft food -is their natural diet, together with grasses, vegetables, and animal -food. The proper selection of the food is extremely important to secure -the rapid growth of the duck, and the ingredients of the food must -be such as will afford a well-balanced and substantial ration. As a -whole, it may be said that the rations used by the largest duck raisers -are essentially the same, differing only in the quantities used in -the mixing. Investigations show the real values of the food to be the -same for producing rapid growth and early development. The duckling -grows twice as rapidly and is a much heavier eater than the chick, and -to produce the best results its food must be such as will be easily -assimilated. The various methods of feeding given in this bulletin are -recommended for raising ducks successfully. - -It costs from 6 to 12 cents a pound to raise a duck for market at ten -weeks of age. The cost of feed is from 4˝ to 5 cents a pound, and -that of labor, etc., is from 4 to 8 cents a pound. It costs from $1.75 -to $2.50 each to keep breeding ducks a year. - -The three different methods of feeding ducks are as follows: (1) -Feeding ducks for market (ten weeks old); (2) feeding young ducks to -be kept as breeders; (3) feeding old ducks. The first method, for the -sake of convenience and to explain more fully the composition of the -rations, is subdivided into four parts, as follows. - -(1) From time of hatching to five days old provide the following -mixture: Cracker or bread crumbs and corn meal, equal parts by measure; -hard boiled eggs, 15 per cent of the total bulk of crackers and meal; -sand, 5 per cent of the total of crackers and meal. Mix with water or -milk, and feed four times a day. - -(2) From five to twenty days old, the following mixture: Wheat bran, -two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; rolled oats, 50 per cent of -this bulk; beef scraps, 5 per cent; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 -per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a -day. - -(3) From twenty to forty-two days old, the following mixture: Wheat -bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; beef scraps, 5 per -cent of this bulk; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with -water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. - -(4) From forty-two to seventy days old, the following mixture: Corn -meal, two parts by measure; wheat bran, one part; beef scraps, 10 per -cent of this bulk; coarse sand or grit, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per -cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. - -The hours for feeding are 6 a. m., 10 a. m., 2 p. m., and 6 p. m. - -Below is given another system of feeding ducks for marketing at ten -weeks of age. This system is practically the same as the one given -above, differing only in the ingredients used for the first two parts -or until the duckling is twenty days old. The method given below is -used successfully by one of the largest duck raisers on Long Island. It -is divided into three parts, as follows: - -(1) From time of hatching to seven days old, feed equal parts by -measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour, and 10 per cent -of this bulk coarse sand. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and -feed four times a day. - -(2) From seven to fifty-six days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn -meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour; 10 per cent of this bulk beef -scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand, and 12˝ per cent green foods (green -rye, oats, clover, etc.). Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and -feed four times a day. - -(3) From fifty-six to seventy days old, feed two parts by measure. Corn -meal; one part wheat bran; one part No. 2 grade flour; 12˝ per cent -of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand; 12˝ percent green -food. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed three times a -day--morning, noon, and night. Give last feed an hour before sundown. - -When ducks are raised for breeders they are fed differently from those -intended for market. They are not forced so much as are the latter, -and less fattening food is given them. The corn meal and beef scraps -are reduced to one-half the quantity used in the above rations. The -following is an excellent ration: Equal parts corn meal, wheat bran, -green food, 5 per cent beef scraps, and 5 per cent coarse sand or grit. - -A ration for breeding (laying) ducks is recommended as follows: Fifty -per cent, by measure, corn meal; 15 per cent wheat bran; 15 per cent -green foods (cooked vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, etc.); 12 -per cent beef scraps, and 8 per cent coarse sand or grit. Mix with -water to a dry crumbly state and feed twice a day, morning and night. -After the breeding season is over and the ducks have stopped laying -they are changed from this to the equal-parts ration, as given above -for ducklings from seven to fifty-six days old. - - -MIXING FEED. - -The feeding stuffs should be mixed in a trough sufficiently large to -hold the quantity without wasting over the edges. First mix the corn -meal and bran together while dry; after these have mixed thoroughly, -making an evenly colored mixture, it should be moistened with water -and mixed to a dry, crumbly state. It should not be too wet or sloppy, -as it is then not so good for the fowls, neither can it be handled and -fed properly. Warm water should be used when the weather is excessively -cold. In a second trough place the green foods, such as cut rye, oats, -etc., and dampen with water; then mix the allowance of the No. 2 grade -flour with it. Thoroughly mix, so that the flour will completely cover -the green stuff. After this has been done mix the flour and green -mixture with the corn meal and bran mixture and add the allowance of -beef scraps and sand. When vegetables are used, they should be well -cooked before mixing in the rations. - -The duck raisers on Long Island use large quantities of fish for their -breeding stock. This is known as the "fish diet," and is considered -as being very valuable to induce egg production. Where fish are cheap -they form an excellent substitute for beef scraps in the rations -for breeding ducks or ducks not intended for market, but under no -circumstances should fish be fed to stock that will be marketed. Fish -makes the flavor of the flesh strong and ducks fed on fish will not -have ready sales in the market. The fish are cooked by boiling in iron -camp kettles until well done, and then mixed, bones and all, in the -rations as given above for breeding ducks. When fish is used the beef -scraps are omitted. - - -HOW MUCH TO FEED. - -The amount of feed needed each day for young ducks varies as much as -does their growth. Their growth averages a half pound a week, and to -make this increase of weight each week requires an additional quantity -of food over the preceding one. The rule is, feed each meal what they -will eat up clean with a relish, and do not allow them to linger over -the feed trough. It is better they should have not enough than too -much, as they will be in a much better condition to relish the next -meal. One thing is considered to be of as much importance as the feed, -and that is removing the feed left over and thoroughly cleaning the -troughs after each meal. This is scrupulously attended to by successful -duck raisers. - -One raiser gives, as a generous allowance for one day's ration for one -hundred laying ducks, the following: For the morning meal, 35 quarts -of the mash, and for the evening meal 40 quarts, making a total of 75 -quarts for the day's portion, or three-fourths of a quart to each duck -a day. Another raiser allows 400 quarts, fed in halves, twice a day, to -six hundred breeding or laying ducks, averaging two-thirds of a quart -to each duck a day. - -There are many patterns of feed troughs in use, hardly any two being -alike. They are simple affairs, the simpler the better, as they are -more easily kept clean. The designs given for water troughs are equally -as good for feed troughs and answer the purpose very well. Each pen of -birds should have two troughs, one for water and the other for feed, -built proportionately to suit the age and size of the birds they are -intended for. Make them of sufficient length to avoid crowding, so that -all the birds in each pen will have ample room to eat at the same time. - - -OYSTER SHELLS AND GRIT. - -Grit in some form is essential to ducks and should be kept before them -at all times. Many overlook this fact and do not seem to understand -that it is of as much value to them as it is to chickens. The sand used -in the mashes tends to supply a certain amount of grinding material or -grit to them, but does not fully satisfy them for digesting their food. -On a farm where more than ten thousand birds are raised annually, and -where disease is practically unknown, it was noted that in every pen -there was a box of grit and a box of crushed oyster shells. This raiser -states that he considers grit and oyster shells an absolute necessity -for ducks, and he attributes the healthy appearance of his stock to it. -His birds eat it freely and the supply is never allowed to run out. - - -KILLING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET. - -There are two methods of dressing ducks for market, by dry picking and -by scalding. Both of these methods are good and are being successfully -employed by the largest raisers. Some have a preference for dry picking -and others for scalding, and it becomes only a matter of taste which -method is used. When birds are dressed by scalding they should be -dipped several times, or until the feathers come out easily. The back -should be dipped in the water first. After scalding, wipe them as dry -as possible with a sponge and pick the breast feathers first. A bird -when dressed for market has left on it the feathers on the wing, the -tail feathers, and the feathers on head and neck, as shown in fig. 27. -The legs are left on, and the birds are not drawn. - -The process of dry picking is considered the simpler of the two -methods, and one who is accustomed to the work can readily dress 3 -dozen birds in a day. The picker's outfit consists of a chair, a box -for the feathers, and a couple of knives, one knife being dull and the -other being sharp pointed and double edged, for bleeding. The bird -is taken between the knees, the bill held open with the left hand, -and a cut made across the roof of the mouth just below the eyes. The -bird is then stunned by striking its head against a post or some hard -substance. The picker seats himself in the chair with the bird in his -lap (fig. 28), its head held firmly between one knee and the box. The -feathers arc carefully sorted while picking; the pins are thrown away -and the body feathers with the down are thrown into the box. Care -should be taken about this, as the feathers from each bird will weigh -about 2 ounces, and will quite pay for the picking. - -[Illustration: Fig. 27.--Pair dressed ducks (10 weeks old).] - -The dull knife and the thumb are used to remove the long pinfeathers, -and this should be done without tearing the skin. The down can usually -be rubbed off by slightly moistening the hand and holding the skin -tight. Often some of the pins can not be taken out without tearing and -disfiguring the skin; when such is the case they should be shaved off. -Seven or eight minutes is all the time necessary to dress a bird. After -the birds are picked they should be carefully washed, and plumped by -placing in a tank or barrel of ice water. They are hardened in this ice -water and given a rounded and full appearance. They are then packed -in barrels or boxes and shipped to market. The first or bottom layer -is packed with backs down; a layer of ice is then placed over them, -and all other layers are packed with the breasts down, a layer of ice -being between each layer of ducks. The top of the box or barrel is then -rounded off with ice and covered with burlaps. A flour barrel will hold -about three dozen birds. Some raisers use boxes for shipping and have -the empties returned free. - - -DEVELOPMENT OF THE DUCKLING IN THE EGG. - -Eggs to hatch must have good, strong germs and must be laid by healthy -stock. Debilitated, degenerated stock will not produce healthy and -vigorous young. The health of the breeding stock must be promoted and -everything done that will assist to increase the fertility of the egg. -Comfortable houses, cleanliness, pure water, and above all wholesome -and nutritious food, are the best promoters of health. The best stock -to be had is none too good, and it is erroneous to send the earliest -and best stock to market for the small increase in price, and save the -later and inferior stock for breeding purposes. A continuation of this -practice for a few years means degenerate stock, infertile eggs, weak -germs, and large mortality among the newly-hatched birds. - -[Illustration: Fig. 28.--Duck picker.] - -After an egg has been under incubation for thirty six hours, it will, -if fertile, when held to the light, show a small dark spot a trifle -larger than a pin's head. This little spot is the life germ and shows -the egg to be fertile. From this time the development of the germ into -the duckling can be plainly seen if the egg be held to a strong light. -On the sixth or seventh day the first testing of the eggs should be -made and all infertile ones taken out. The germ is very distinct at -this time, and there has been a gradual change going on in the interior -of the egg. The little spot has been constantly enlarging and becoming -more dense, and little veins are seen running in divers directions. - -This is the appearance of an egg with a strong, live germ, which under -favorable circumstances will produce a duck. - -An egg that is not fertile on the sixth or seventh day will be -perfectly clear and transparent; all such should be removed at -once, as it is useless to allow them to remain. Another kind of egg -often seen is a weak or imperfectly fertilized egg, and shows an -irregularly-shaped blood vessel, which had started but lacked vitality -enough to continue. Such an egg will not hatch and should also be -removed from the nest or incubator. Frequently the germ in an egg -will show life when tested on the seventh day, but lacks the vitality -to carry it through, and when tested later will show dark, irregular -blotches over the surface of the egg. These will not hatch, and should -be taken out when noticed. - -On the fourteenth day the little creature inside the egg begins to -assume shape and show considerable life. It has increased many times in -size since it was seen on the seventh day; the red veins have become -more numerous and have spread over the entire surface, while the yolk -is scarcely distinguishable from the other portions. The pupil of -the eye has now become distinct, and the projection of the wings is -clearly perceived. The absorption of the yolk has also commenced, and -this will continue until the twenty-fourth day, when it will be nearly -completed. The egg from this time on will rapidly grow opaque, and at -the eighteenth or twentieth day is entirely so. On the twenty-fourth -day the duckling is ready to make its way out of the shell, and in -forty-eight hours after pipping the shell it will be entirely out. - - -NATURAL INCUBATION. - -Hatching under the sitting hen (generally used for hatching ducks) is -what is termed the natural process of incubation. The hatching of eggs -by this means has always been followed, and no special skill is needed -for success, provided the eggs are well fertilized with healthy germs. -Many who raise ducks in large numbers, however, use almost exclusively -artificial means; some use both the natural and the artificial, while -others use the natural entirely. - -Of the natural method we shall treat first: Hens of medium size of the -American class, barred Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes, are considered -the best for sitting. Nine duck eggs are about the right number to -place under a hen in early spring weather, but when the season is far -advanced as many as thirteen are used. The hens should be provided with -large, roomy nests, and slatted fronts that can be removed and replaced -easily when the hens are fed and watered. The nesting material should -be of hay or straw, and the nest should be slightly concaved; in the -bottom place a little finely cut hay. - -Before the hen is put on the eggs she should be thoroughly dusted -with insecticides; the nest also should have a good dusting of the -same. Both hen and nest should undergo a thorough dusting several -times during the process of hatching as a safeguard against lice. When -the ducklings are hatched they should also have their share of the -insecticides before they are given to the hen. When a large number of -sitting hens are used for hatching, as many as possible should be set -at one time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. Hatching with hens -may be done on a large scale and the young brooded artificially. As -many as five hundred sitting hens are used on some farms for hatching -ducks. They are set in small houses or rooms with the nests around the -sides in tiers, each nest having its own lattice door. Each day, in the -morning, the hens are taken from their nests and fed and watered on the -floor of the room. They are taken down in limited numbers, sections, -as it were, at a time, and after they have had the food, drink, and a -little exercise they are placed back on the nests and another section -is fed and watered. - - -ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. - -The subject of artificial incubation has engaged the attention of the -civilized world for generations past; the method has done wonders for -the poultry industry and has opened up the pathways to fortunes that -might otherwise never have been made. The science of incubation and -brooding has been developed wonderfully in this country during the last -quarter of a century, and what seemed almost an impossibility then has -indeed become a certainty now. There are many thousands of chicks and -ducklings hatched by artificial means each year, and the numbers of -good machines now being manufactured in this country at low prices make -poultry raising a business that almost anyone with a limited capital -may profitably engage in. The mission of an incubator is to supplant -the sitting hen, and make it possible to hatch a large number of chicks -at a minimum amount of cost and labor. That this can be done is proved -each day. - -For artificial incubation, have a room with a temperature as nearly -uniform as possible. Balance the beat in the machines, or in other -words, see that the heat is uniform at both ends, and, in fact, all -over them. See that each is running steadily before placing the eggs in -it, as there is a great deal in starting right. The machines should be -run at a temperature of 102° for the first three weeks, and 103° the -last week. The eggs should be turned twice each day at regular periods. -Introduce a pan of water from the fifteenth to the twenty-second day, -no matter what the location of the machine, whether in a damp cellar -or in a dry room overhead, in a moist atmosphere near the seashore or -in a dry one at an altitude in the country. The temperature may go as -high as 101° just previous to and while hatching without injury. Place -the glass on a live egg after the animal heat rises, which will be -when the circulation begins. This will be perceptible in good eggs the -fourteenth and fifteenth days. - -Considerable weight has been put upon the ventilation question in -incubators by manufacturers and operators, but it has been found that -when the egg chamber is roomy, and the eggs are taken out and cooled -twice each day, it is not of so much consequence. There is no doubt -but that there must be some ventilation in the egg chamber, but from -the experience and observation of the writer the value of the subject -has been overestimated by many. Some machines have top ventilation, -some bottom, and others both top and bottom, and there is seemingly no -marked difference in the hatching. - -When the ducklings are hatching, the broken egg shells should be -removed once in every six or eight hours, so that they will not slip -over the pipped eggs, as it would be sure death to the imprisoned ones. -Occasionally a little bird is unable to free itself from the shell -and needs help; the expert can readily detect when this is necessary. -The one point to note in this connection is this: The egg just before -hatching radiates a great deal of heat, while the duckling, when first -out, being not unlike a little sponge, absorbs it, or in other words, -the rapid evaporation which takes place generates cold; so that when -the ducklings are out the machine should be gauged one degree higher. - -When the ducklings are all out and dried off, the machine will run -at least two degrees lower than when they were in the egg. Plenty -of ventilation is needed in the machines while hatching. Keep the -ducklings in the machine at least twenty-four hours after hatching, -when they will be strong enough to be removed to the brooder. The heat -in the brooder should be started twenty-four hours previous to use, so -that it will be perfectly heated and ready for the ducklings when they -are taken from the machine. - - - - -GEESE. - - - - -STANDARD BREEDS OF GEESE. - - -=Introduction.=--There are seven standard breeds of geese, as follows: -Gray Toulouse, White Embden, Gray African, Brown Chinese, White -Chinese, Gray Wild, and Colored Egyptian. - - -GRAY TOULOUSE GEESE. - -=History.=--Gray Toulouse geese (fig. 29) are named for the city in -France of that name, where they are extensively bred. In this country -they are bred in large numbers by farmers and are fairly well thought -of for market purposes. Their flesh is a trifle too coarse and flabby, -when compared with some other geese, to be prized very highly for table -purposes. They are termed a Christmas goose, as being later in maturing -than the others they are just about right at the holiday time. They are -fairly good layers, averaging about 40 eggs in a season. - -[Illustration: Fig. 29.--Pair of Gray Toulouse geese.] - -=Description.=--Toulouse geese are more compact in shape than other -geese, and are preferred by many for this reason. The head is rather -large and short, and they have a comparatively short bill that is stout -at the base; the neck is carried well up and is of medium length. -They have a broad back of moderate length, which curves slightly from -the neck to the tail; their breasts are broad and deep. The body of -the Toulouse goose is moderate in length, broad, and very deep and -compact, the more compact the better; and in birds in good condition -the belly almost touches the ground. Their wings are large, strong, -and fold nicely against the sides, and they have comparatively short -tails, and stout thighs and shanks. In color of plumage they are a dull -gray, without penciling. The head is dark gray and the neck of the same -color, which shades to a lighter gray as it approaches the back; the -back is of dark gray, while the breast is light gray. The body plumage -is light gray, which grows lighter and becomes white on the belly; the -white extends back .to and around the tail, covering the fluffy parts. -The primaries of the wings are dark gray or brown; the secondaries are -a shade darker than the primaries and the coverts are dark gray. The -tail feathers are gray and white, the ends tipped with white. Their -eyes are dark brown or hazel in color; their bills, shanks, toes, and -webs are of deep reddish-orange color. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult -goose, 20 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose, 15 pounds. - - -WHITE EMBDEN GEESE. - -=History.=--White Embden geese (fig. 30) are considered very practical -birds for farmers, and pay well for their keeping. They are nice -looking, of large size, tall and erect carriage,, and snow-white -plumage. They originally came from Embden, in Westphalia, and have been -bred in this country for many years. - -=Description.=--The Embdens are not so prolific as the Brown Chinese or -Toulouse, 20 eggs in a season being a good average for them. Their eggs -are very large, white, and have a very thick, rough shell. In carriage -they are very tall and erect, and have fine square bodies. They have -rather large heads, medium-sized bill, and a long neck that is carried -upright. Their backs are of medium length, and arch slightly from the -neck to the tail; the breast is round and full, and the body is large, -square, and very deep, and, like the Toulouse, almost touches the -ground The wings are large and strong; tail short; thighs and shanks -short and stout. Their eyes are bright blue; bills flesh color; and -their shanks, toes, and webs are deep orange. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult -goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose 10 pounds. - - -GRAY AFRICAN GEESE. - -=History.=--Gray African geese (fig. 31) are by many raisers considered -the most profitable of all geese to keep. They grow the heaviest in the -shortest space of time, and are ready for market in ten weeks, weighing -at that age between 8 and 10 pounds. They are very much like the Pekin -duck in this respect, and as compared with other geese give the most -satisfactory returns for the least labor and time spent in growing -them. They are, according to standard weights, as heavy as the Toulouse -and Embden, but specimens are not uncommon that exceed these weights -by several pounds. They are first-class layers and average about 40 -eggs in a season. This is considered as a low estimate for their egg -production. For table purposes they are esteemed very highly, their -flesh being fine and nicely flavored. - -[Illustration: Fig. 30.--Pair of White Embden geese.] - -=Description.=--These geese have a large head, with a large knob, -and a heavy dewlap under the throat. These and the Chinese geese are -different from the others in the head, and are the only two breeds that -have the knob on the head. The bill of the African is rather large and -stout at the base, and their necks are long. Their backs are long and -flat, breasts round and moderately full, and they have large, long, and -upright bodies. The wings are large and strong, and are folded well -against the body; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks of medium -length. The knob is black and the dewlap of a gray color, while the -plumage of the neck is light gray with a dark stripe running from the -head to the body. The back is dark gray, the plumage of the breast is -gray, and the underpart of body is light gray. The wings and tail are -dark gray, and the thighs are light gray. The eyes are hazel or brown; -bill, black; shanks, toes, and web are of dark-orange color. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult -goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 14 pounds. - -[Illustration: Fig. 31.--Pair of Gray African geese.] - - -BROWN AND WHITE CHINESE GEESE. - -=History.=--The smallest of the breeds of geese are the Chinese, -averaging in weight from 6 to 7 pounds lighter than those previously -named. Apparently their want of size has prevented them from becoming -favorites with those who raise large numbers annually, but with those -who keep a limited number they are found to be very practical. What -they lack in size they gain in egg production, being the most prolific -of all breeds of geese, averaging from 50 to 60 eggs a year. In size, -aptitude to fatten, and ease of management they appear in no respect -inferior to other geese, while the quality of flesh is decidedly -superior. - -=Description.=--They are exceedingly graceful in appearance, quite -hardy, and the young mature early. There are two varieties of Chinese -geese--the Brown (fig. 32) and the White. They have large heads, with -large knob at base of a medium-length bill, and long, gracefully arched -necks. The backs are medium in length, and the breast is round and -full; body of medium size, round and plump; wings, large and strong; -thighs, short and stout, and shanks of medium length. - -[Illustration: Fig. 32.--Pair of Brown Chinese geese (young).] - -The color of head of the Brown Chinese geese is brown; knob dark brown -or black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from -the head down to the body. The body is dark brown, breast grayish -brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. The wings and -tail are brown, and the thighs are grayish brown. The eyes are hazel or -brown; bill dark brown or black; and shanks, toes, and webs are a dusky -orange color. - -The color of plumage of the White Chinese geese is pure white -throughout, perfectly free from feathers of any other color. The knob -and bill are orange color, as are also the shanks, toes, and web. The -eyes are a deep leaden blue. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 14 pounds; adult -goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 8 pounds. - - -GRAY WILD GEESE. - -=History.=--Gray Wild geese (fig. 33) are among the best known of -domestic geese, and are very generally bred throughout the entire -country. They are among the most valuable and practical birds for goose -raising, and are prized very highly for table purposes, besides being -good layers, hardy, and easy to rear. - -[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Gray wild goose.] - -=Description.=--These geese have a rather small head, small bill, sharp -at the point, and long, slender neck, snaky in appearance. The back -is long and rather narrow, and is arched from neck to tail; breast, -full and deep, and body long and somewhat slender. The wings are long, -large, and powerful, and the thighs are rather short. The head of the -Wild goose is black, with a white stripe nearly covering the side of -the face; bill, black; neck, black; and back, dark gray. - -The breast is light gray, which grows darker as it approaches the legs; -the plumage of the underparts of the body from the legs to the tail is -white. - -The wings are dark gray; primaries dusky black, showing only a -dark-gray color when the wing is folded; secondaries are brown, but of -a lighter shade than the primaries. The tail feathers are glossy black, -and the thighs are gray. The shanks, toes, and webs are black. The eyes -are black. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 16 pounds; adult -goose, 14 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 10 pounds. - - -COLORED EGYPTIAN GEESE. - -=History.=--The most beautiful of the breeds of geese are the colored -Egyptians (fig. 34); they are purely ornamental, not having been -bred in this country for any other purpose than the showroom. They -are sometimes called the Nile Goose. This goose is tall and somewhat -slender, which gives it an elegance of appearance not possessed by any -other breed. It can generally be bred in confinement, but is of a most -quarrelsome nature, and the male will fight to the death other males -of the same species. The males must each be given a separate pen, and -mated with the females; it is seldom that any two males can be kept in -the same pen. - -=Description.=--These geese have a medium-sized and rather long head, a -bill of medium length, and a rather small neck. The back is narrow and -slightly arched from the neck to the tail; breast, round; body, long, -but somewhat small and slender. Their wings are large, and have instead -of the ordinary hard knobs horny spurs about five-eighths of an inch -long; the thighs are of medium length, and the shanks rather long. The -color of the head is black and gray; the bill is purple or bluish red, -and the eyes orange. - -[Illustration: Fig. 34.--Pair of Colored Egyptian geese.] - -The neck and back are gray and black; the center of the breast is -chestnut, and the balance is gray. The upper parts of the plumage of -the body are gray and black, and the under parts are a pale yellow, -penciled with black. The shoulders of the wings are white, with a -narrow black stripe or bar. The tail feathers are glossy black; thighs, -pale buff; shanks, toes, and webs, reddish yellow. The eyes are orange. - -=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 15 pounds; adult -goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 9 pounds. - - - - -MANAGEMENT OF GEESE. - - -Goose raising is not so extensively engaged in as duck raising, the -conditions under which they can be successfully raised being almost -entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising. -The duck, being smaller, can be raised in a more limited space than can -the goose, the latter needing free range and water, while the former -has been proved to do equally as well without water. - -While the goose can not profitably be raised in as large numbers as -the duck, still it can not justly be termed unprofitable. There are -many places on a farm that are worthless for cultivation that could -be utilized with excellent results for goose raising. Fields that -have streams, branches, or unused springs on them could be turned to -good advantage by making them into goose pastures. Many farmers are -profiting by this and adding to their incomes annually. The care and -attention necessary for raising geese are very small when compared -with the returns, and the cost of food is also proportionately small -in comparison with the cost of food used for other birds bred for -market. A goose on range will gather the largest portion of its food, -consisting of grasses, insects, and other animal and vegetable matter -to be found in the fields and brooks. - -The simplest kinds of houses are used for shelter; these should -be built after the plans of those given for ducks, but should be -proportionately of larger size to accommodate comfortably the number -of birds to be kept. Geese are long-lived birds, some having been -known to attain the age of 40 years, while birds of 15 and 20 years of -age are not uncommon. They retain their laying and hatching qualities -through life. Ganders should not be kept for breeding after 3 years of -age; young ganders are more active and insure greater fertility of the -eggs than old ones do; besides, ganders become more quarrelsome as age -advances. - -The feathers of geese are an important source of revenue and find -a ready sale in the markets. A goose will average about 1 pound of -feathers a year. The feathers should be plucked when there is no blood -in the ends of the quills; this can be readily ascertained, as they -will then leave the flesh without hard pulling. Almost all breeds of -geese are good sitters and attentive mothers, and if left to themselves -will make their nests, much as when wild, and hatch a large percentage -of their eggs. But hens are now more frequently used for hatching goose -eggs; as by taking the eggs from the goose when laid and giving them to -hens to hatch, the goose will lay a greater number of eggs than if she -were permitted to sit. - -All breeds of geese, except perhaps the Egyptian, are to be recommended -to farmers who keep a limited number in addition to other poultry and -allow them the freedom of the farm, but when goose raising is to be -more extensively engaged in, the African goose is to be especially -commended. It is the quickest to mature, most prolific, and the easiest -to handle of any of the varieties. - - -MATING AND SETTING. - -In breeding African geese, mate two geese to one gander, and it will -be still better if pairs are used to secure better fertility of the -eggs. Those who contemplate raising geese should secure their stock in -the fall, so that the birds may become accustomed to the place before -the breeding season begins. The breeding stock should be at least 2 -years old, and fully matured birds. When stock is purchased in the -fall they should be turned out in a pasture, and no other food than -what they gather themselves will be needed until the grass goes down. -Their rations should then consist of equal parts by measure, bran, -middlings, and corn meal, with 5 per cent of this bulk of beef scraps. -They should be given a light feed of this ration in the morning, and -at night they should be fed cracked corn. Ten per cent of the bulk of -the daily ration should be green foods, steamed clover, and cooked -vegetables. - -[Illustration: Fig. 35.--Wild and African cross.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Embden and Toulouse cross.] - - -The breeding season begins about February 1, though some geese will -begin laying as early as December, then stop, and begin again the first -of February. They make their own nests from the straw and litter on the -floor of their houses, and will lay from 12 to 20 eggs before becoming -broody. As soon as the goose shows an inclination to sit, remove her -and place her in a dark box or small coop, and keep her there for two -or three days with water for drink, but no food. Then she may be placed -back in the yards and she will begin another laying of eggs. The first -and second layings of eggs should be set under hens. After the goose -lays the second laying she should be confined again, when she will -lay a third laying. When she has laid the third laying she should be -permitted to sit on them, instead of giving them to hens. A goose will -lay from 10 to 15 eggs in each of the second and third layings. - -It is recommended that after the eggs have been sat upon for -twenty-five days, that they be taken from the nest and placed for about -one minute in water heated to a temperature of 104°. Thirty days are -required for incubation. After the eggs have hatched leave the hen and -goslings in the nest for twenty-four hours; after the young have become -thoroughly dry remove hen and brood and pen them in a large, roomy coop -for four or five days. When the goslings have reached this age--four or -five days--they are perfectly able to take care of themselves. The hen -should then be taken from the goslings, which should be allowed freedom -to roam at will, but they should always be cooped up at night. - - -FEEDING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET. - -[Illustration: Fig. 37.--Embden and African cross.] - -The first feed for goslings is grass, fed on sod; a small allowance of -corn meal, slightly moistened, is also given them. Sand and charcoal -are sometimes mixed with the corn meal. They are fed on the above food -three times a day for a couple of days, when they are given a ration -composed of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and steamed cut -clover or cooked vegetables. This feed is given them morning, noon, and -night, until they are 8 weeks old, when they are penned to be fattened -for market at 10 weeks old. - -To fatten young geese, place them in a pen, not too large, so that they -will not exercise too much, and feed three times a day all they will -eat up clean of the following: Corn meal mixed to a dry crumbly state, -and beef scraps amounting to 20 per cent of the bulk of the corn meal. -While fattening young geese they should be kept as quiet as possible; -no excitement whatever should disturb them. When feeding approach them -quietly, and do not irritate them in the least or they will not fatten, -but will "throw out" or grow another crop of feathers. At 10 weeks of -age, or when the tips of the wings reach the tail, they are ready for -market and should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds. - -When young goslings are to be dressed for market they are killed by -cutting them in the roof of the mouth, severing the artery, or by -stunning them by hitting them a sharp, quick blow on the head. The -picker uses a box in front of him about the height of the knees, -holding the bird with the left hand and clasping the feet and wings -together; he places the head of the bird against the box and holds it -in place with the knee. Pick the feathers from the body of the bird, -then dampen the right hand and brush the body to remove the down. Leave -about 2 inches of feathers on the neck, and also leave feathers on the -wings at the first joint. Lay the wings against the body of the birds -and tie a string around to hold in position. I lace the birds, when -picked, in cold water for an hour or so to plump them; if they are in -the water too long they are liable to bleach and become water-soaked. -They are then iced up in barrels already to ship to market. - -Young geese should be marketed in October. It is best to market all -possible before cold weather sets in. It is much harder to dress a -gosling in cold weather. The feathers set tighter, and in picking them -the flesh is torn. - - -CROSS BREEDING. - -The most satisfactory results are to be had by breeding pure -standard-bred stock without crossing. But to those who are partial to -crosses the following are considered the best to make: (1) Wild gander -on African goose (fig. 35); (2) Embden gander on Toulouse goose (fig. -36); (3) Embden gander on African goose (fig. 37), and (4) Embden -gander on White China goose. These crosses will give good growth and -the young birds will dress well for market. Crosses should only be made -for market purposes, and should always be bred from original stock. - - - * * * * * - - -FARMERS' BULLETINS. - -These bulletins are sent free of charge to any address upon application -to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Only the following -are available: - - No. 15.--Some Destructive Potato Diseases: What They Are and How - to Prevent Them. No. 16.--Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring - and for Feeding. No. 18.--Forage Plants for the South. No. - 19.--Important Insecticides: Directions for their Preparation and - Use. No. 21.--Barnyard Manure. No. 22.--Feeding Farm Animals. No. - 23.--Foods: Nutritive Value and Cost. No. 24.--Hog Cholera and - Swine Plague. No. 25.--Peanuts: Culture and Uses. No. 26.--Sweet - Potatoes: Culture and Uses. No. 27.--Flax for Seed and Fiber. No. - 28.--Weeds; and How to Kill Them. No. 29.--Souring of Milk and Other - Changes in Milk Products. No. 30.--Grape Diseases on the Pacific - Coast. No. 31.--Alfalfa, or Lucern. No. 32.--Silos and Silage. No. - 33.--Peach Growing for Market. No. 34.--Meats: Composition and - Cooking. No. 35.--Potato Culture. No. 36.--Cotton Seed and Its - Products. No. 37.--Kafir Corn: Characteristics, Culture, and Uses. - No. 38.--Spraying for Fruit Diseases. No. 39.--Onion Culture. No. - 40.--Farm Drainage. No. 41.--Fowls: Care and Feeding. No. 42.--Facts - About Milk. No. 43.--Sewage Disposal on the Farm. No. 44.--Commercial - Fertilizers. No. 45.--Some Insects Injurious to Stored Grain. No. - 46.--Irrigation in Humid Climates. No. 47.--Insects Affecting - the Cotton Plant. No. 48.--The Manuring of Cotton. No. 49.--Sheep - Feeding. No. 50.--Sorghum as a Forage Crop. No. 51.--Standard - Varieties of Chickens. No. 52.--The Sugar Beet. No. 53.--How to - Grow Mushrooms. No. 54.--Some Common Birds in Their Relation to - Agriculture. No. 55.--The Dairy Herd: Its Formation and Management. - No. 56.--Experiment Station Work--I. No. 57.--Butter Making on the - Farm. No. 58.--The Soy Bean as a Forage Crop. No. 59.--Bee Keeping. - No. 60.--Methods of Curing Tobacco. No. 61.--Asparagus Culture. No. - 62.--Marketing Farm Produce. No. 63.--Care of Milk on the Farm. - No. 64.--Ducks and Geese. No. 65.--Experiment Station Work--II. - No. 66.--Meadows and Pastures. No. 67.--Forestry for Farmers. No. - 68.--The Black Rot of the Cabbage. No. 69.--Experiment Station - Work--III. No. 70.--The Principal Insect Enemies of the Grape. No. - 71.--Some Essentials of Beef Production. No. 72.--Cattle Ranges of - the Southwest. No. 73.--Experiment Station Work--IV. No. 74.--Milk - as Food. No. 75.--The Grain Smuts. No. 76.--Tomato Growing. No. - 77.--The Liming of Soils. No. 78.--Experiment Station Work--V. No. - 79.--Experiment Station Work--VI. No. 80.--The Peach Twig-borer--an - Important Enemy of Stone Fruits. No. 81.--Corn Culture in the - South. No. 82.--The Culture of Tobacco. No. 83.--Tobacco Soils. - No. 84.--Experiment Station Work--VII. No. 85.--Fish as Food. No. - 86.--Thirty Poisonous Plants. No. 87.--Experiment Station Work--VIII. - No. 88.--Alkali Lands. No. 89.--Cowpeas. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber Note - -Minor typos may have been corrected. Illustrations were repositioned to -avoid splitting paragraphs. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's USDA Farmers’ Bulletin No. 64, by George E. Howard - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS’ BULLETIN NO. 64 *** - -***** This file should be named 62685-8.txt or 62685-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/6/8/62685/ - -Produced by Tom Cosmas -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - |