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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canal Reminiscences, by George W. Bagby
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Canal Reminiscences
- Recollections of Travel in the Old Days on the James River
- & Kanawha Canal
-
-Author: George W. Bagby
-
-Release Date: July 20, 2020 [EBook #62708]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANAL REMINISCENCES ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by David E. Brown and The Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- CANAL
- REMINISCENCES:
-
- Recollections of Travel in the Old Days
- ON THE
- James River & Kanawha Canal.
-
- BY
- GEORGE W. BAGBY.
-
-
- RICHMOND:
- WEST, JOHNSTON & CO., PUBLISHERS.
- 1879.
-
-
-
-
- _Copyright Secured._
-
-
- _Printed by
- Whittet & Shepperson,
- Richmond, Va._
-
-
-
-
-Preface.
-
-
-My first thought was to print these reminiscences in a newspaper. But
-our papers are unable to pay for contributions. It was not so in the
-former days. Well do I remember when the _Dispatch_ cheerfully gave
-me its dollars, not merely for stories and sketches, but for trifles
-like the “_Weekly Rekord uv amewsments_,” which I then kept, and which
-seemed to please our good people of Richmond, who were then doing so
-well in business that they were easily pleased. And truly in those
-times they were a liberal, open-hearted set. So would they be now were
-they able.
-
-Will we ever see good times and plenty of money again? I think so.
-And yet often I get very blue, apprehending still greater business
-troubles, culminating in I know not what of civil disaster. It is
-touching to me, going around, as I have had to do a great deal of
-late, among our business men, to see their sad faces, and yet their
-evident anxiety in the midst of worries and cares, to help one who
-is even worse off than themselves. We have good stock here--men who
-would honor any city in the land, and who make up a community in
-which it is a pleasure to live. Here and there you find one, two, or
-three close-fisted fellows, who dodge you for fear you will ask them
-for something. That is to their credit, for it shows that they have
-feeling and a sense of shame. And again you meet positive brutes, who
-are not merely stingy and mean, but ill-mannered and under-bred to
-boot. But these serve as foils to set off their better brethren to more
-advantage; and I, for one, am not the man to abuse stingy people. They
-have one magnificent trait to counterpoise their littleness--they pay
-their debts, and pay them promptly. So, take it all in all, Richmond is
-about as good a place to live in as a man will find on this globe, as
-I have learned by playing book-canvasser,--an excellent school for the
-study of men.
-
-But shall we see better times? Why, yes, surely. They have begun
-already in Troy, N. Y., the papers say. And I verily believe the
-railway, which is to take the place of the canal, will do more than
-all things else to bring back work for all and money for all of us
-in our fair city of Richmond. Let us at least hope so. And with that
-hope in view, I trust that these reminiscences of an obsolescent
-mode of travel--which may have been delightful, but certainly was
-not rapid--will give a few moments of pleasure to the friends of the
-publishers and of the writer.
-
- G. W. B.
-
-
-
-
-Canal Reminiscences.
-
-
-Among my earliest recollections is a trip from Cumberland County to
-Lynchburg, in 1835, or thereabouts. As the stage approached Glover’s
-tavern in Appomattox county, sounds as of a cannonade aroused my
-childish curiosity to a high pitch. I had been reading Parley’s History
-of America, and this must be the noise of actual battle. Yes; the war
-against the hateful Britishers must have broken out again. Would the
-stage carry us within range of the cannon balls? Yes, and presently
-the red-coats would come swarming out of the woods. And--and--Gen.
-Washington was dead; I was certain of that; what would become of us?
-I was terribly excited, but afraid to ask questions. Perhaps I was
-scared. Would they kill an unarmed boy, sitting peaceably in a stage
-coach? Of course they would; Britishers will do anything! Then they
-will have to shoot a couple of men first;--and I squeezed still closer
-between them.
-
-My relief and my disappointment were equally great, when a casual
-remark unfolded the fact that the noise which so excited me was only
-the “blasting of rock on the Jeems and Kanawha Canell.” What was
-“blasting of rock?”
-
-What was a “canell?” and, above all, what manner of thing was a “Jeems
-and Kanawha Canell?” Was it alive?
-
-I think it was; more alive than it has ever been since, except for the
-first few years after it was opened.
-
-Those were the “good old days” of batteaux,--picturesque craft that
-charmed my young eyes more than all the gondolas of Venice would do
-now. True, they consumed a week in getting from Lynchburg to Richmond,
-and ten days in returning against the stream, but what of that? Time
-was abundant in those days. It was made for slaves, and we had the
-slaves. A batteau on the water was more than a match for the best four
-or six horse bell-team that ever rolled over the red clay of Bedford,
-brindle dog and tar-bucket included.
-
-Fleets of these batteaux used to be moored on the river bank near where
-the depot of the Virginia and Tennessee Railroad now stands; and many
-years after the “Jeems and Kanawha” was finished, one of them used to
-haunt the mouth of Blackwater creek above the toll-bridge, a relic of
-departed glory. For if ever man gloried in his calling,--the negro
-batteau-man was that man. His was a hardy calling, demanding skill,
-courage and strength in a high degree. I can see him now striding
-the plank that ran along the gunwale to afford him footing, his long
-iron-shod pole trailing in the water behind him. Now he turns, and
-after one or two ineffectual efforts to get his pole fixed in the rocky
-bottom of the river, secures his purchase, adjusts the upper part of
-the pole to the pad at his shoulder, bends to his task, and the long,
-but not ungraceful bark mounts the rapids like a sea-bird breasting the
-storm. His companion on the other side plies the pole with equal ardor,
-and between the two the boat bravely surmounts every obstacle, be it
-rocks, rapids, quicksands, hammocks, what not. A third negro at the
-stern held the mighty oar that served as a rudder. A stalwart, jolly,
-courageous set they were, plying the pole all day, hauling in to shore
-at night under the friendly shade of a mighty sycamore, to rest, to
-eat, to play the banjo, and to snatch a few hours of profound, blissful
-sleep.
-
-The up-cargo, consisting of sacks of salt, bags of coffee, barrels
-of sugar, molasses and whiskey, afforded good pickings. These sturdy
-fellows lived well, I promise you, and if they stole a little, why,
-what was their petty thieving compared to the enormous pillage of the
-modern sugar refiner and the crooked-whiskey distiller? They lived
-well. Their cook’s galley was a little dirt thrown between the ribs
-of the boat at the stern, with an awning on occasion to keep off the
-rain, and what they didn’t eat wasn’t worth eating. Fish of the very
-best, both salt and fresh, chickens, eggs, milk and the invincible,
-never-satisfying ash-cake and fried bacon. I see the frying-pan, I
-smell the meat, the fish, the Rio coffee!--I want the batteau back
-again, aye! and the brave, light-hearted slave to boot. What did
-he know about the State debt? There was no State debt to speak of.
-Greenbacks? Bless, you! the Farmers Bank of Virginia was living and
-breathing, and its money was good enough for a king. Readjustment,
-funding bill, tax-receivable coupons--where were all these worries
-then? I think if we had known they were coming, we would have stuck
-to the batteaux and never dammed the river. Why, shad used to run to
-Lynchburg! The world was merry, butter-milk was abundant; Lynchburg a
-lad, Richmond a mere youth, and the great “Jeems and Kanawha canell”
-was going to--oh! it was going to do everything.
-
-This was forty years ago and more, mark you.
-
-In 1838, I made my first trip to Richmond. What visions of grandeur
-filled my youthful imagination! That eventually I should get to be a
-man seemed probable, but that I should ever be big enough to live,
-actually live, in the vast metropolis, was beyond my dreams. For I
-believed fully that men were proportioned to the size of the cities
-they lived in. I had seen a man named Hatcher from Cartersville,
-who was near about the size of the average man in Lynchburg, but as
-I had never seen Cartersville, I concluded, naturally enough, that
-Cartersville must be equal in population. Which may be the fact, for I
-have never yet seen Cartersville, though I have been to Warminster, and
-once came near passing through Bent-Creek.
-
-I went by stage.
-
-It took two days to make the trip, yet no one complained, although
-there were many Methodist ministers aboard. Bro. Lafferty had not
-been born. I thought it simply glorious. There was an unnatural
-preponderance of preacher to boy,--nine of preacher to one of boy. That
-boy did not take a leading part in the conversation. He looked out
-of the window, and thought much about Richmond. And what a wonderful
-world it was! So many trees, such nice rocks, and pretty ruts in the
-red clay; such glorious taverns, and men with red noses; such splendid
-horses, a fresh team every ten miles, and an elegant smell of leather,
-proceeding from the coach, prevailing everywhere as we bowled merrily
-along. And then the stage horn. Let me not speak of it, lest Thomas and
-his orchestra hang their heads for very shame. I wish somebody would
-tell me where we stopped the first night, for I have quite forgotten.
-Any how, it was on the left-hand side coming down, and I rather think
-on the brow of a little hill. I know we got up mighty soon the next
-morning.
-
-We drew up at the Eagle hotel in Richmond. Here again words, and time
-too, fail me. All the cities on earth packed into one wouldn’t look as
-big and fine to me now as Main street did then. If things shrink so in
-the brief space of a life-time, what would be the general appearance,
-say of Petersburg, if one should live a million or so of years? This
-is an interesting question, which you may discuss with yourself, dear
-reader.
-
-Going northward, I remained a year or two, and on my return the
-“canell” was finished. I had seen bigger places than Richmond, but had
-yet to have my first experience of canal travelling. The packet-landing
-at the foot of Eighth street presented a scene of great activity.
-Passengers on foot and in vehicles continued to arrive up to the moment
-of starting. I took a peep at the cabin, wondering much how all the
-passengers were to be accommodated for the night, saw how nicely the
-baggage was stored away on deck, admired the smart waiters, and picked
-up a deal of information generally. I became acquainted with the names
-of Edmond & Davenport in Richmond, and Boyd, Edmond & Davenport in
-Lynchburg, the owners of the packet-line, and thought to myself, “What
-immensely rich men they must be! Why, these boats cost ten times as
-much as a stage-coach, and I am told they have them by the dozen.”
-
-At last we were off, slowly pushed along under the bridge on Seventh
-street; then the horses were hitched; then slowly along till we passed
-the crowd of boats near the city, until at length, with a lively jerk
-as the horses fell into a trot, away we went, the cut-water throwing
-up the spray as we rounded the Penitentiary hill, and the passengers
-lingering on deck to get a last look at the fair city of Richmond,
-lighted by the pale rays of the setting sun.
-
-As the shadows deepened, everybody went below. There was always a
-crowd in those days, but it was a crowd for the most part of our best
-people, and no one minded it. I was little, and it took little room
-to accommodate me. Everything seemed as cozy and comfortable as heart
-could wish. I brought to the table,--an excellent one it was,--a school
-boy’s appetite, sharpened by travel, and thought it was “just splendid.”
-
-Supper over, the men went on deck to smoke, while the ladies busied
-themselves with draughts or backgammon, with conversation or with
-books. But not for long. The curtains which separated the female from
-the male department were soon drawn, in order that the steward and
-his aids might make ready the berths. These were three deep, “lower,”
-“middle” and “upper;” and great was the desire on the part of the men
-not to be consigned to the “upper.” Being light as a cork, I rose
-naturally to the top, clambering thither by the leathern straps with
-the agility of a monkey, and enjoying as best I might the trampling
-overhead whenever we approached a lock. I didn’t mind this much, but
-when the fellow who had snubbed the boat jumped down about four feet,
-right on my head as it were, it was pretty severe. Still I slept the
-sleep of youth. We all went to bed early. A few lingered, talking in
-low tones; and way-passengers, in case there was a crowd, were dumped
-upon mattresses, placed on the dining tables.
-
-The lamp shed a dim light over the sleepers, and all went well
-till some one--and there always was some one--began to snore.
-_Sn-a-a-aw!_--_aw-aw-poof!_ They would turn uneasily and try to compose
-themselves to slumber again. No use. _Sn-a-a-aw_--_poof!_ “D---- that
-fellow! Chunk him in the ribs, somebody, and make him turn over. Is
-this thing to go on forever? Gentlemen, are you going to stand this all
-night? If you are, I am not. I am going to get up and dress. Who is he
-anyhow? No gentleman would or could snore in that way.”
-
-After a while silence would be restored, and all would drop off to
-sleep again, except the little fellow in the upper berth, who lying
-there would listen to the _trahn-ahn-ahn-ahn_ of the packet-horn as
-we drew nigh the locks. How mournfully it sounded in the night! what
-a doleful thing it is at best, and how different from the stage-horn
-with its cheery, ringing notes! The difference in the horns marks the
-difference in the two eras of travel; not that the canal period is
-doleful--I would not say that, but it is less bright than the period of
-the stage-coach.
-
-To this day you have only to say within my hearing _trahn-ahn-ahn_,
-to bring back the canal epoch. I can see the whole thing down to the
-snubbing post with its deep grooves which the heavy rope had worn.
-Indeed, I think I could snub a boat myself with very little practice,
-if the man on deck would say “_hup!_” to the horses at the proper time.
-
-We turned out early in the morning, and had precious little room for
-dressing. But that was no hardship to me, who had just emerged from a
-big boarding school dormitory. Still, I must say, being now a grown
-and oldish man, that I would not like to live and sleep and dress for
-twenty or thirty years in the cabin of a canal-packet. The ceremony
-of ablution was performed in a primitive fashion. There were the tin
-basins, the big tin dipper with the long wooden handle. I feel it
-vibrating in the water now, and the water a little muddy generally;
-and there were the towels, a big one on a roller, and the little ones
-in a pile, and all of them wet. These were discomforts, it is true,
-but, pshaw! one good, big, long, deep draught of pure, fresh morning
-air--one glimpse of the roseate flush above the wooded hills of the
-James, one look at the dew besprent bushes and vines along the canal
-bank--one sweet caress of dear mother nature in her morning robes, made
-ample compensation for them all. Breakfast was soon served, and all the
-more enjoyed in consequence of an hour’s fasting on deck; the sun came
-out in all his splendor; the day was fairly set in, and with it there
-was abundant leisure to enjoy the scenery, that grew more and more
-captivating as we rose, lock after lock, into the rock-bound eminences
-of the upper James. This scenery I will not attempt to describe,
-for time has sadly, dimmed it in my recollection. The wealth of the
-lowlands, and the upland beauty must be seen as I have seen them, in
-the day of their prime, to be enjoyed.
-
-The perfect cultivation, the abundance, the elegance, the ducal
-splendor, one might almost say, of the great estates that lay along
-the canal in the old days have passed away in a great measure. Here
-were gentlemen, not merely refined and educated, fitted to display a
-royal hospitality and to devote their leisure to the study of the art
-and practice of government, but they were great and greatly successful
-farmers as well. The land teemed with all manner of products, cereals,
-fruits, what not! negroes by the hundreds and the thousands, under wise
-direction, gentle but firm control, plied the hoe to good purpose.
-There was enough and to spare for all--to spare? aye! to bestow with
-glad and lavish hospitality. A mighty change has been wrought. What
-that change is in all of its effects mine eyes have happily been spared
-the seeing; but well I remember--I can never forget--how from time to
-time the boat would stop at one of these estates, and the planter, his
-wife, his daughters, and the guests that were going home with him,
-would be met by those who had remained behind, and how joyous the
-greetings were! It was a bright and happy scene, and it continually
-repeated itself as we went onward.
-
-In fine summer weather, the passengers, male and female, stayed most of
-the time on deck, where there was a great deal to interest, and naught
-to mar the happiness, except the oft-repeated warning, “_braidge!_”
-“_low braidge!_” No well-regulated packet-hand was ever allowed to say
-plain “bridge;” that was an etymological crime in canal ethics. For the
-men, this on-deck existence was especially delightful; it is _such_
-a comfort to spit plump into the water without the trouble of feeling
-around with your head, in the midst of a political discussion, for the
-spittoon.
-
-As for me, I often went below, to devour Dickens’s earlier novels,
-which were then appearing in rapid succession. But, drawn by the charm
-of the scenery, I would often drop my book and go back on deck again.
-There was an islet in the river--where, exactly, I cannot tell--which
-had a beauty of its own for me, because from the moment I first saw it,
-my purpose was to make it the scene of a romance, when I got to be a
-great big man, old enough to write for the papers. There is a point at
-which the passengers would get off, and taking a near cut across the
-hills, would stretch their legs with a mile or two of walking. It was
-unmanly, I held, to miss that. Apropos of scenery, I must not forget
-the haunted house near Manchester, which was pointed out soon after we
-left Richmond, and filled me with awe; for though I said I did not
-believe in ghosts, I did. The ruined mill, a mile or two further on,
-was always an object of melancholy interest to me; and of all the locks
-from Lynchburg down, the Three-Mile Locks pleased me most. It is a
-pretty place, as every one will own on seeing it. It was so clean and
-green, and white and thrifty-looking. To me it was simply beautiful.
-I wanted to live there; I ought to have lived there. I was built for
-a lock-keeper--have that exact moral and mental shape. Ah! to own
-your own negro, who would do all the drudgery of opening the gates.
-Occasionally you would go through the form of putting your shoulder
-to the huge wooden levers, if that is what they call them, by which
-the gates are opened; to own your own negro and live and die calmly
-at a lock! What more could the soul ask? I do think that the finest
-picture extant of peace and contentment--a little abnormal, perhaps,
-in the position of the animal--is that of a sick mule looking out of
-the window of a canal freight-boat. And that you could see every day
-from the porch of your cottage, if you lived at a lock, owned your own
-negro, and there was no great rush of business on the canal, (and there
-seldom was) on the “Jeems and Kanawhy,” as old Capt. Sam Wyatt always
-called it, leaving out the word “canal,” for that was understood. Yes,
-one ought to live as a pure and resigned lock-keeper, if one would be
-blest, really blest.
-
-Now that I am on the back track, let me add that, however bold and
-picturesque the cliffs and bluffs near Lynchburg and beyond, there was
-nothing from one end the canal to the other to compare with the first
-sight of Richmond, when, rounding a corner not far from Hollywood, it
-burst full upon the vision, its capitol, its spires, its happy homes,
-flushed with the red glow of evening. And what it looked to be, it was.
-Its interior, far from belieing its exterior, surpassed it. The world
-over, there is no lovelier site for a city; and the world over there
-was no city that quite equalled it in the charm of its hospitality,
-its refinement, its intelligence, its cordial welcome to strangers. Few
-of its inhabitants were very rich, fewer still were very poor. But I
-must not dwell on this. Beautiful city! beautiful city! you may grow to
-be as populous as London, and sure no one wishes you greater prosperity
-than I, but grow as you may, you can never be happier than you were in
-the days whereof I speak. How your picture comes back to me, softened
-by time, glorified by all the tender, glowing tints of memory. Around
-you now is the added glory of history, a defence almost unrivalled in
-the annals of warfare; but for me there is something even brighter
-than historic fame, a hue derived only from the heaven of memory. In
-my childhood, when all things were beautified by the unclouded light
-of “the young soul wandering here in nature,” I saw you in your youth,
-full of hope, full of promise, full of all those gracious influences
-which made your State greatest among all her sisters, and which seemed
-concentrated in yourself. Be your maturity what it may, it can never be
-brighter than this.
-
-To return to the boat. All the scenery in the world--rocks that
-Salvator would love to paint, and skies that Claude could never
-limn--all the facilities for spitting that earth affords, avail not to
-keep a Virginian away from a julep on a hot summer day. From time to
-time he would descend from the deck of the packet and refresh himself.
-The bar was small, but vigorous and healthy. I was then in the lemonade
-stage of boyhood, and it was not until many years afterwards that I
-rose through porterees and claret-punches to the sublimity of the
-sherry cobbler, and discovered that the packet bar supplied genuine
-Havana cigars at fourpence-ha’penny. Why, eggs were but sixpence a
-dozen on the canal bank, and the national debt wouldn’t have filled
-a tea-cup. Internal revenue was unknown; the coupons receivable for
-taxes inconceivable, and forcible readjustment a thing undreamt of in
-Virginian philosophy. Mr. Mallock’s pregnant question, “Is life worth
-living?” was answered very satisfactorily, methought, as I watched
-the Virginians at their juleps: “Gentlemen, your very good health;”
-“Colonel, my respects to you;” “My regards, Judge. When shall I see you
-again at my house? Can’t you stop now and stay a little while, if it
-is only a week or two?” “Sam,” (to the bar-keeper,) “duplicate these
-drinks.”
-
-How they smacked their lips; how hot the talk on politics became; and
-how pernicious this example of drinking in public was to the boy who
-looked on! Oh! yes; and if you expect your son to go through life
-without bad examples set him by his elders in a thousand ways, you must
-take him to another sphere. Still, the fewer bad examples the better,
-and you, at least, need not set them.
-
-Travelling always with my father, who was a merchant, it was natural
-that I should become acquainted with merchants. But I remember very few
-of them. Mr. Daniel H. London, who was a character, and Mr. Fleming
-James, who often visited his estate in Roanoke, and was more of a
-character than London, I recall quite vividly. I remember, too, Mr.
-Francis B. Deane, who was always talking about Mobjack Bay, and who
-was yet to build the Langhorne Foundry in Lynchburg. I thought if I
-could just see Mobjack Bay, I would be happy. According to Mr. Deane,
-and I agreed with him, there ought by this time to have been a great
-city on Mobjack Bay. I saw Mobjack Bay last summer, and was happy.
-Any man who goes to Gloucester will be happy. More marked than all of
-these characters was Major Yancey, of Buckingham, “the wheel-horse of
-Democracy,” he was called; Tim. Rives, of Prince George, whose face,
-some said, resembled the inside of a gunlock, being the war-horse.
-Major Y.’s stout figure, florid face, and animated, forcible manner,
-come back with some distinctness; and there are other forms, but they
-are merely outlines barely discernible. So pass away men who, in their
-day, were names and powers--shadows gone into shadow-land, leaving but
-a dim print upon a few brains, which in time will soon flit away.
-
-Arrived in Lynchburg, the effect of the canal was soon seen in the
-array of freight boats, the activity and bustle at the packet landing.
-New names and new faces, from the canal region of New York, most
-likely, were seen and heard. I became acquainted with the family of
-Capt. Huntley, who commanded one of the boats, and was for some years
-quite intimate with his pretty daughters, Lizzie, Harriet and Emma.
-Capt. H. lived on Church street, next door to the Reformed, or as it
-was then called, the Radical Methodist Church, and nearly opposite to
-Mr. Peleg Seabury. He was for a time connected in some way with the
-Exchange hotel, but removed with his family to Cincinnati, since when
-I have never but once heard of them. Where are they all, I wonder?
-Then, there was a Mr. Watson, who lived with Boyd, Edmond & Davenport,
-married first a Miss ----, and afterwards, Mrs. Christian, went into
-the tobacco business in Brooklyn, then disappeared, leaving no trace,
-not the slightest. Then there was a rare fellow, Charles Buckley, who
-lived in the same store with Watson, had a fine voice, and without a
-particle of religion in the ordinary sense, loved dearly to sing at
-revivals. I went with him; we took back seats, and sang with great
-fervor. This was at night. Besides Captain Huntley, I remember among
-the captains of a later date, Captain Jack Yeatman; and at a date
-still later his brother, Captain C. E. Yeatman, both of whom are
-still living. There was still another captain whose name was Love----
-something, a very handsome man; and these are all.
-
-In 1849, having graduated in Philadelphia, I made one of my last
-through-trips on the canal, the happy owner of a diploma in a green
-tin case, and the utterly miserable possessor of a dyspepsia which
-threatened my life. I enjoyed the night on deck, sick as I was. The
-owl’s “long hoot,” the “plaintive cry of the whippoorwill;” the
-melody--for it is by association a melody, which the Greeks have but
-travestied with their _brek-ke-ex_, _ko-ex_--of the frogs, the mingled
-hum of insect life, the “stilly sound” of inanimate nature, the soft
-respiration of sleeping earth, and above all, the ineffable glory of
-the stars. Oh! heaven of heavens, into which the sick boy, lying alone
-on deck, then looked, has thy charm fled, too, with so many other
-charms? Have thirty years of suffering, of thought, of book-reading,
-brought only the unconsoling knowledge, that yonder twinkling sparks
-of far-off fire are not lamps that light the portals of the palace of
-the King and Father, but suns like our sun, surrounded by earths full
-of woe and doubt like our own; and that heaven, if heaven there be,
-is not in the sky; not in space, vast as it is; not in time, endless
-though it be--where then? “Near thee, in thy heart!” Who feels this,
-who will say this of himself? Away thou gray-haired, sunken-cheeked
-sceptic, away! Come back to me, come back to me, wan youth; there
-on that deck, with the treasure of thy faith, thy trust in men, thy
-worship of womankind, thy hope, that sickness could not chill, in the
-sweet possibilities of life. Come back to me!--’Tis a vain cry. The
-youth lies there on the packet’s deck, looking upward to the stars, and
-he will not return.
-
-The trip in 1849 was a dreary one until there came aboard a dear lady
-friend of mine who had recently been married. I had not had a good
-honest talk with a girl for eighteen solid--I think I had better
-say long, (we always say long when speaking of the war)--“fo’ long
-years!”--I have heard it a thousand times--for eighteen long months,
-and you may imagine how I enjoyed the conversation with my friend. She
-wasn’t very pretty, and her husband was a Louisa man; but her talk,
-full of good heart and good sense, put new life into me. One other
-through trip, the very last, I made in 1851. On my return in 1853, I
-went by rail as far as Farmville, and thence by stage to Lynchburg; so
-that, for purposes of through travel, the canal lasted, one may say,
-only ten or a dozen years. And now the canal, after a fair and costly
-trial, is to give place to the rail, and I, in common with the great
-body of Virginians, am heartily glad of it. It has served its purpose
-well enough, perhaps, for its day and generation. The world has passed
-by it, as it has passed by slavery. Henceforth Virginia must prove her
-metal in the front of steam, electricity, and possibly mightier forces
-still. If she can’t hold her own in their presence, she must go under.
-I believe she will hold her own; these very forces will help her.
-The dream of the great canal to the Ohio, with its-nine mile tunnel,
-costing fifty or more millions, furnished by the general government,
-and revolutionizing the commerce of the United States, much as the
-discovery of America and opening of the Suez canal revolutionized the
-commerce of the world, must be abandoned along with other dreams.
-
-One cannot withhold admiration from President Johnston and other
-officers of the canal, who made such a manful struggle to save it. But
-who can war against the elements? Nature herself, imitating man, seems
-to have taken special delight in kicking the canal after it was down.
-So it must go. Well, let it go. It knew Virginia in her palmiest days
-and it crushed the stage coach; isn’t that glory enough? I think it is.
-But I can’t help feeling sorry for the bull frogs; there must be a good
-many of them between here and Lexington. What will become of them, I
-wonder? They will follow their predecessors, the batteaux; and their
-pale, green ghosts, seated on the prows of shadowy barges, will be
-heard piping the roundelays of long-departed joys.
-
-Farewell canal, frogs, musk-rats, mules, packet-horns and all, a long
-farewell. Welcome the rail along the winding valleys of the James. Wake
-up, Fluvanna! Arise, old Buckingham! Exalt thyself, O Goochland! And
-thou, O Powhatan, be not afraid nor shame-faced any longer, but raise
-thy Ebenezer freely, for the day of thy redemption is at hand. Willis
-J. Dance shall rejoice; yea, Wm. Pope Dabney shall be exceeding glad.
-And all hail our long lost brother! come to these empty, aching, arms,
-dear Lynch’s Ferry!
-
-I have always thought that the unnatural separation between Lynchburg
-and Richmond was the source of all our troubles. In some way, not
-entirely clear to me, it brought on the late war, and it will bring on
-another, if a reunion between the two cities does not soon take place.
-Baltimore, that pretty and attractive, but meddlesome vixen, is at the
-bottom of it all. Richmond will not fear Baltimore after the rails are
-laid. Her prosperity will date anew from the time of her iron wedding
-with Lynchburg. We shall see her merchants on our streets again, and
-see them often. That will be a better day.
-
-Alas! there are many we shall not see. John G. Meem, Sam’l McCorkle,
-John Robin McDaniel, John Hollins, Chas. Phelps, Jno. R. D. Payne, Jehu
-Williams, Ambrose Rucker, Wilson P. Bryant, (who died the other day,)
-and many, many others will not come to Richmond any more. They are
-gone. And if they came, they would not meet the men they used to meet;
-very few of them at least. Jacquelin P. Taylor, John N. Gordon, Thos.
-R. Price, Lewis D. Crenshaw, James Dunlop--why add to the list? They
-too are gone.
-
-But the sons of the old-time merchants of Lynchburg will meet here the
-sons of the old-time merchants of Richmond, and the meeting of the
-two, the mingling of the waters--Blackwater creek with Bacon Quarter
-branch--deuce take it! I have gone off on the water line again--the
-admixture, I should say, of the sills of Campbell with the spikes of
-Henrico, the readjustment, so to speak, of the ties (R. R. ties) that
-bind us, will more than atone for the obsolete canal, and draw us all
-the closer by reason of our long separation and estrangement. Richmond
-and Lynchburg united will go onward and upward in a common career
-of glory and prosperity. And is there, can there be, a Virginian,
-deserving the name, who would envy that glory, or for a moment retard
-that prosperity? Not one, I am sure.
-
-Allow me, now that my reminiscences are ended, allow me, as an old
-stager and packet-horn reverer, one last Parthian shot. It is this: If
-the James river does not behave better hereafter than it has done of
-late, the railroad will have to be suspended in mid-heaven by means
-of a series of stationary balloons; travelling then may be a little
-wabbly, but at all events, it won’t be wet.
-
- G. W. BAGBY.
-
-
-
-
-TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:
-
-
- Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_.
-
- Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
-
- Archaic or alternate spelling has been retained from the original.
-
-
-
-
-
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