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diff --git a/old/62762-0.txt b/old/62762-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1a61a9b..0000000 --- a/old/62762-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3642 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's American Beer, by United States Brewers' Association - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: American Beer - Glimpses of Its History and Description of Its Manufacture - -Author: United States Brewers' Association - -Release Date: July 26, 2020 [EBook #62762] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICAN BEER *** - - - - -Produced by Nahum Maso i Carcases, Emmanuel Ackerman, and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes: - -The original spelling, hyphenation, and punctuation have been retained, -with the exception of apparent typographical errors which have been -corrected. - -Text in Italics is indicated between _underscores_. - -Text in small capitals has been replaced by regular uppercase text. - - - - - AMERICAN BEER - - Glimpses of Its History and Description of - Its Manufacture - - NEW YORK: - UNITED STATES BREWERS’ ASSOCIATION - 1909 - - - - - PREFACE - - -This book is composed mainly of selected parts of two separate essays -written by the undersigned and published many years ago on two -different occasions and for two widely dissimilar purposes. - -The reproduction of these sketches in the present form appears to be -warranted by a growing demand for information concerning the process -of brewing of which one of the two essays here referred to contains a -popular description, often quoted not only in magazines and newspapers, -but also in encyclopaedias. That booklet, copyrighted by Mr. George -Ehret, is now out of print; but with characteristic kindness Mr. Ehret -has authorized the United States Brewers’ Association to reprint -the whole or any part of it, as present needs may demand. We have, -accordingly, reproduced without abridgment everything relating to the -processes of brewing, malting, refrigeration, etc., and have only -changed or amplified the remainder of the text in such a manner as to -bring it up to date. - -As to the historical part, the sketches herein contained are not -intended to go beyond the narrow limit indicated by the sub-title. They -afford only random glimpses of the history of American brewing, but -enough, probably, to create in the mind of the reader a desire to read -those other books published by the Association, in which the subject is -treated fully and comprehensively from various points of view. - - G. THOMANN. - - NEW YORK, NOVEMBER, 1909. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - NEW ENGLAND - - -The writer of an historical essay dealing with the origin of the art -of brewing, even in countries of comparatively recent civilization, -cannot escape the necessity of taking into account a certain element -of mythical obscurity, calculated to throw a legendary glamour around -and about the introduction of a beverage, the invention of which has -been ascribed by the popular imagination of ancient times to certain -benevolent gods, either male or female, according to the mythological -systems of the different countries. - -Even the history of brewing in New England is not entirely free from -this legendary element, although there is, indeed, no dearth of -well-authenticated historical facts from the very moment when the new -communities emerged from the primitive conditions of the earliest -camp-life. There can be no doubt that on the soil of New England beer -was consumed by people of European origin long before the landing -of the Pilgrims. On their adventurous voyage of exploration, which -resulted in the discovery of Vineland, the Vikings, it may safely -be assumed, carried with them a supply of their favorite beverage; -and there is more than an ordinary degree of internal probability -in the assumption that Bartholomew Gosnold, who in 1602 landed at -the point which he named Cape Cod, brought with him from Falmouth an -ample supply of ale, which in those days was deemed an indispensable -commissary article of every ship destined for the New World. The fact -that Gosnold’s party—the first Englishmen who trod upon Massachusetts -soil—looked forward to a permanent settlement, lends additional force -to our view. It may also be safely assumed that malt liquor was brought -by all the exploring expeditions that touched the coast, or attempted -settlements thereon; and this certainly applies to the party of John -Smith, to whom we owe both the name and a printed description of New -England. - -[Sidenote: THE MAYFLOWER’S ALE] - -Concerning the Pilgrims of the “Mayflower,” history affords ample -evidence that they carried with them a supply of good old English -ale, the brewing of which they had continued in Holland, according -to their own method and formula. At this point, however, legendary -fiction appears to have invaded the sacred domain of Clio. It is -said that this supply of beer was exhausted somewhat earlier than -the organizers of the migration scheme had anticipated, and that, -therefore, a landing was effected at the rather uninviting spot since -then immortalized in song and story as Plymouth Rock. Whether conceived -in a facetious spirit, prompted by a knowledge of the Puritans’ -well-known appreciation of liquid cheer, or based, as it is claimed, -upon the semi-historical authority of a private diary, the story is -characteristic enough in all its bearings to be true; and, if it were -so, what a splendid illustration it would be of the old axiom, that -in history very insignificant causes sometimes produce most marvelous -effects! - -It is an historical fact that Robinson’s stout-hearted flock of -“Separatists,” while yet at their first place of refuge in Holland, -and considering, with all the seriousness of their character, the -advisability of migrating to the Western World, were long undecided -as to the course they should take; whether to accept the invitation -of the Dutch to settle in New Amsterdam, or to avail themselves of -the inducements held out by the Virginia Company, or finally, to -create an independent community in New England. Even after their -embarkation, it was not positively determined whether Virginia or New -England should be their destination. Now it may easily be conceived -that, in conjunction with the historically demonstrable causes of the -landing at Plymouth, the lack of beer helped to accelerate a final -resolution, and thus prevented a settlement in Virginia—a course which -might have turned the subsequent current of our national development -into a direction totally different from that which led us on to -political, moral and physical greatness. If we duly consider what all -historians are agreed upon, namely, that the people of that part of the -mother-country whence the New England colonists originally emigrated, -still represented, in a remarkable degree of purity, the old Teutonic -stock—German tinged with Northman’s blood—we may be all the more -inclined to accept this beer story seriously; at all events, we shall -understand perfectly what history tells us of the colonial brewer and -his place in the infant society. - -[Sidenote: THE FIRST BREWERY] - -The first authentic record of the existence of a public brewery dates -back to 1637, so far as Massachusetts Bay, and to 1638, so far as -Rhode Island is concerned; the former brewery was the result of the -personal enterprise of Captain Sedgwick, the latter a communal creation -of Roger Williams’ nascent colony, a combined brew-house and tavern, -placed under the supervision of Sergeant Baulston. These were not -the first brewers, however, for, some time before either of them was -mentioned, the licensed tavern-keepers had obtained permission to brew, -or rather, to speak more correctly, were _directed_ by the governing -authorities to brew beer, of which both the quality and the price -formed the subjects of early legislation and regulation. In addition -to these brewing tapsters, as we might style them, nearly every -well-to-do housewife brewed beer for her own household consumption. -While the domestic manufacture of distilled liquors, carried on in a -most primitive way, was not likely to be neglected by a people whose -drinking habits were quite as conspicuous as their piety, valor, -endurance, prowess and moral rectitude, the early local histories and -laws afford abundant proof that the best minds earnestly endeavored to -stem the growing predilection for ardent spirits by bestowing fostering -care upon brewing and malting. - -The first regulative measure of this kind, the very one which unwisely -gave to the afore-mentioned Captain Sedgwick a monopoly of brewing -strong beer, was conceived in this spirit, and a subsequent law (1639) -restoring to all tavern-keepers the right to brew all kinds of malt -liquors, without any restraint whatever, at the same time restricting -the sale of ardent spirits to one person in each town, such persons -to be appointed upon the recommendation of their respective town -authorities, reveals in a palpable manner the objects of the lawmakers. - -[Sidenote: SOME ILLUSTRIOUS BREWERS] - -The social standing both of the public brewer and the brewing -tavern-keeper must have been a very exalted one; and for this assertion -there is a strong and direct evidence, not only in the fact that only -voters and church members, men distinguished by their godliness and -exemplary deportment, could obtain the right to brew and dispense beer, -but also in the still more significant provision of the earlier laws -making the licensed persons responsible for the moral conduct of their -guests and admonishing them to discountenance upon their premises any -practices “not to be tolerated by such as are bound by solemn covenant -to walk by the rule of God’s word.” - -This established the character and standing of the business, which -in many instances derived additional lustre from the character and -standing of the men engaged in it, for it is an indisputable historical -fact that many brewers and taverners not only occupied prominent civil -and military positions, but became influential leaders, distinguished -alike by valor in the field and wisdom in council, and transmitting to -their off-springs (by heredity, perhaps, no less than by the formative -power of example) that spirit of patriotism which gave birth to our -Nation. - -In the course of this narrative, this subject will again be adverted -to; but for the present, in order to put our readers in a receptive -mood, the mere mention of a few historical names will doubtless -suffice. Such names, for instance, as that of Samuel Adams, one of -the foremost of our Revolutionary forefathers, the son of a brewer -and himself a brewer, as proud of his calling as doubtless were the -Revolutionary generals Putnam, Weedon and Sumner, who also brewed and -sold beer. General Putnam distinguished himself alike by the ardor of -his patriotism and his undaunted courage and masterly generalship. In -addition to tilling his own lands, he carried on the two-fold business -of brewing and tapping until, obeying his country’s call for brave -hearts and stout hands, he joined the Revolutionary army, in which he -won great honor and lasting fame. After the war he returned to his old -home in Brooklyn, Connecticut, resuming his old business and retaining -control of it to the end of his days. - -The average Vermonter of our times, who up to 1904 had lived under -a prohibitory law and become accustomed to look upon brewing and -tapping as callings to be shunned by decent people, may possibly find -it difficult to realize that the first Governor of the Green Mountain -Republic, Thomas Chittenden, the man who fills a larger place in -the history of Vermont, and who has done more for the independence -and civic welfare of his people than any other, was a brewing -tavern-keeper—a man whose unselfishness, patriotism, courage and wisdom -won for him unstinted praise at home and abroad. - -A modern historian (Rowland A. Robinson in “American Commonwealths”), -with a keen perception of the fitness of things, concludes his work -with these words: “The history of Vermont is one that her people may -well be proud of. Such shall it continue to be, if her sons depart not -from the wise and fatherly counsel of her first Governor (Chittenden) -to be ‘a faithful, industrious and moral people,’ and in all their -appointments ‘to have regard to none but those who maintain a good -moral character, men of integrity and distinguished for wisdom and -abilities.’” - -One cannot mention Chittenden without thinking of his friend, Captain -Stephen Fay, the landlord of the Catamount Tavern, who had five sons -in the Battle of Bennington, and left one of them dead upon the bloody -field. It was in the council chamber of this Catamount Tavern that the -leaders of the Green Mountain Boys, among them Ethan Allen, met after -the Battle of Lexington and determined to “unite with their countrymen” -against the common enemy. - -Nearly every liberty-pole in revolutionary and prerevolutionary days -stood before a tavern, the headquarters of the Sons of Liberty; and -not infrequently the tavern-keeper was the leader of the band. In her -“Stage Coach and Tavern Days,” Miss Alice Morse Earle has a chapter on -the “Tavern in War,” which opens with this paragraph: - - “The tavern has ever played an important part in social, political and - military life, has helped to make history. From the earliest days when - men gathered to talk over the terrors of Indian warfare; through the - renewal of these fears in the French and Indian Wars, before and after - the glories of Louisbourg and through all the anxious but steadfast - years preceding and during the Revolution, these gatherings were held - in taverns and ordinaries. What a scene took place in the Brookfield - tavern! The only ordinary, that of Goodman Ayers, was a garrison house - as well as a tavern and the sturdy landlord was commander of the train - band.” - -Miss Earle cites many such examples and we might readily add a score -of illustrious names borne by tavern-keepers and brewing tapsters who -distinguished themselves in the Revolution and whose deeds form some of -the most brilliant chapters of our history. - -If the British considered the taverns as the hot-beds of sedition, as -in fact they did, the Patriots with equal justice regarded them as -the nurseries of liberty; and it is not at all unlikely that in the -tavern of his father-in-law, where he so often made himself useful as -a tapster, Patrick Henry imbibed the ideas which culminated in his -soul-stirring utterance, “Give me liberty or give me death.” - -Enough has been said, we trust, to prove the truth of the assertion -that throughout the Colonial period, and up to the time of the -adoption of the Constitution, the trade was practiced by the very best -people—men whose names adorn the pages of our history, and remind us -of the fact that this industry has at all times given to the cause of -freedom and popular rights some of the most eminent champions; such men -as James Artevelde, to whom Hewlett, in his “Heroes of Europe,” accords -a prominent place, or Santerre, whom Dumas regarded as “the gigantic -personification of the popular will,” a man who sacrificed all he -possessed in order to alleviate the sufferings of his people.[1] - - [1] For the names of prominent brewers in New York, see Chap. II. - -[Sidenote: SPIRIT OF EARLY LEGISLATION] - -In all the laws and ordinances relating to brewing, erroneous economic -theories, fiscal considerations and a natural but often misguided -desire to foster home industries, seemed to be in continual conflict -with the avowed intention of encouraging the consumption of malt -liquors, not only for moral and hygienic reasons, but also because -the minds of the Puritans were imbued with the strong conviction that -beer was the salvation of the British nation; a sentiment to which in -the following century, the laurel-crowned poet, Warton, gave eloquent -poetic utterance in his “Ode to Oxford Ale.” This conviction arose -from an appreciation of the physical, moral and intellectual qualities -of a race addicted for many centuries to the use of beer, as compared -with the effects of spirits, just as in our own time the celebrated -Pasteur wrote a book designed to encourage brewing, because, as he -states in the preface, he attributed the superior physical qualities of -his country’s conquerors to the use of malt liquors. - -Unfortunately, every effort to accomplish the purpose here referred -to, was frustrated by countervailing circumstances, resulting from -the imperfect state of the art and the lack of proper materials, or -by unwise measures, usually of a fiscal or protective character, -adopted by the authorities under pressure of monetary needs or false -theories. For instance, at one time the importation of malt was -forbidden, in order to stimulate domestic malting; yet, within a short -time thereafter, the malting of domestic wheat, rye and barley was -prohibited on account of the scarcity of these cereals. At another -time, a desire to encourage the exportation of wheat led to the -enactment of a law imposing upon brewers a fine of ten shillings for -every bushel of wheat used in brewing. Ordinances encouraging brewing -by exempting beer from taxation were counteracted in their contemplated -effects by regulations prescribing the quality and fixing the price -of malt liquors without regard to the increased cost of materials and -production. And in later periods the requirements of commercial barter -with the West Indies and the competition with other American colonies -for this trade, dictated measures protecting home distilleries in such -a manner and to such an extent that the drinking habits of the people -could not but be changed for the worse and brewing doomed to decay. The -lawmakers realized that there was great need of discouraging the use of -strong drinks among a people who while “fighting and praying,” consumed -immense quantities of “fiery Holland,” which, as Holmes puts it, - - “All drank as t’were their mother’s milk and not a man afraid.” - -But the condition of things militated against the realization of -their object, as we have shown, and thus within less than one hundred -and fifty years, with the growing demand for rum as a medium of -barter, brewing gradually declined, and inebriety continued to spread -throughout the colonies with such alarming rapidity that again—too -late, unfortunately—the lawmakers of the different colonies vied with -each other in strenuous but fruitless attempts to revive the industry. -These efforts were continued in the New England States and elsewhere -after the Revolution; and as an illustration of them may be quoted -the Massachusetts Act of 1789, “to encourage the manufacture and -consumption of strong beer,” totally exempting from all taxation the -entire real and personal property of brewers. As one of the reasons -for this measure, the act sets forth the fact, “that the wholesome -qualities of malt liquors greatly recommend them to general use, as -an important means of preserving the health of the citizens of this -commonwealth, and of preventing the pernicious effect of spirituous -liquors.” - -That under more favorable circumstances the industry would doubtless -have progressed rapidly we may infer from the uncommon degree of -prosperity which both malting and brewing attained during the brief -intervals of the unhampered operations of fostering legislation. As -early as 1641, John Appleton, a representative to the General Court, -established a very fine malt-house, and engaged extensively in the -cultivation of hops. He and Samuel Livermore began very early to -experiment with maize as a substitute for wheat, oats or barley, and -Winthrop, the younger, of Connecticut, having devoted serious study to -this question, finally read a most interesting paper on the subject -before the Royal Society in London, presenting at the same time samples -of Indian corn beer of a very palatable nature and good quality. The -malt of New England soon acquired a wide-spread reputation for its -excellent quality, and relatively large quantities were exported to the -neighboring colonies, particularly to Pennsylvania. This historical -fact is of more than ordinary interest, for it shows that the use -of maize, a material which, in conjunction with malted barley, the -modern brewer uses for the improvement of the quality of his product, -is a thoroughly American practice, sanctioned by long experience, and -approved by the taste of the consumer. In a primitive way, however, -Indian corn was used for brewing very much earlier, if we may believe -Sir Richard Grenville, who, in his description of Virginia, relates -that he saw maize used in brewing by the English of that colony. - -[Sidenote: EFFECTS OF FREE RUM] - -Practically, brewing had ceased to exist as an industry before the -New England colonies had reached Statehood; it was revived for a -short space of time when Alexander Hamilton introduced his revenue -system, and many members of Congress, prompted by moral and hygienic -considerations, supported his efforts to encourage the manufacture. -The spirit of the times as to this question is clearly reflected in -the speeches of eminent statesmen and the writings of philosophers, -all of whom agreed, to quote the words of the “Digest of Manufactures” -and of Gallatin, that “the moralizing tendency and salubrious nature -of fermented liquors recommend them to serious consideration.” But -neither such sentiments nor the positive labors of Dr. Benjamin Rush, -who aimed at the popularization of beer through the total exclusion of -ardent spirits, could prevail against the firmly rooted predilection -for spirits, made universal by the general practice of rural distilling -in all grain-producing States as well as in those States in which the -trade with the West Indies made molasses a common article of barter. -In the entire country, excepting New York and Pennsylvania, the total -production of malt liquors in 1809-10 amounted to barely forty-five -thousand barrels, of which about twenty-three thousand barrels (31½ -gallons) were brewed in Massachusetts, while New York and Pennsylvania -produced 139,000 barrels. - -During the brief era of the first internal revenue system, with its -Whiskey Revolution and other open violations of the law, brewing did -indeed regain some of its lost ground, only to relapse again into its -former somnolent condition, however, as soon as the “free-whiskey” -policy was reintroduced. - -When, four decades after Hamilton’s régime, the temperance movement -began to make itself felt in New England, the brewing industry, the -very agency which all our great statesmen had sought to employ against -the whiskey habit, had to atone for the sins of the rural distillers, -to whose unlimited operations is due all the misery and degradation -that lent a justifying aspect to the demands of the reformers. Under -prohibitory rule in Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and other -eastern States, the general use of ardent spirits, manufactured outside -of, but freely sold within the borders of these States, tended to -confirm the rum habit, and this was all the more inevitable, because -for reasons well known to every one familiar with the question, malt -liquors cannot be sold surreptitiously without great expense and -imminent risk of detection. - -This explains why before the introduction of the internal revenue -system of 1861, which imparted a powerful impetus to brewing throughout -the country, the industry lagged behind in Massachusetts, Connecticut -and Rhode Island and was never able to gain a permanent foothold in -Maine. - -In 1863 the total production of malt liquors in all the New England -States, excepting Massachusetts, amounted to 49,607 barrels, a little -more than double the quantity produced in 1809-10 in Massachusetts -alone. Of these 49,607 barrels Connecticut produced 13,055; Maine, -2,207; New Hampshire, 25,945; Rhode Island, 7,029 and Vermont 1,371 -barrels. In the same year (1863) the total production of malt liquors -in Massachusetts amounted to 112,000 barrels. - -[Sidenote: THE COUNTER REFORMATION] - -At about this time a very strong current of public opinion, set in -motion by official reports as to the manifest healthfulness of malt -liquors as shown by sanitary inspections of the Union camps, began -to weaken the indiscriminate crusades of ultra-reformers against -all kinds of stimulants; and Massachusetts, then burdened by an -absurd prohibitory law, again, as so often before, took the lead in -this counter-reformation. Several years elapsed before the movement -culminated in the now celebrated report of the State Board of Health of -Massachusetts, in which Dr. Bowditch, under the title of “Intemperance -in the Light of Cosmic Laws,” summarized the experiences, convictions -and opinions of eminent scientists, philosophers, public officials -and philanthropists from all parts of the globe, and reached the -conclusion, based on this vast mass of testimony, that “light beer and -ale can be used even freely without any very apparent injury to the -individual or without causing intoxication, and that some writers even -think they do no harm, but real good, if used moderately.” - -The direct result of this agitation and of a comprehensive legislative -inquiry into the different phases of this question, under Governor John -A. Andrews in 1867, was the repeal of prohibition in Massachusetts -in 1868. Connecticut, after essentially modifying the prohibitory -law, totally repealed it in 1867, substituting a license law. In New -Hampshire the manufacture and sale of beer, cider and native wine had -not been forbidden by the so-called Prohibition Act of 1855. Rhode -Island also repealed her prohibitory law in 1863. Vermont was the only -New England State, excepting Maine, of course, in which the Maine law -of 1852 remained then in force. - -From the almost instantaneous effect of these measures, superadded -to the operation of the Federal tax-law, the brewing industry, and, -it is needless to say, the health and morality of the commonwealth, -derived inestimable advantages. Within three years, _i.e._, at the -end of the fiscal year 1866-67, the annual production of malt liquors -in the New England States had increased from 161,607 to 406,154 -barrels. Massachusetts, unfortunately, re-enacted prohibition in 1869, -permitting, however, the manufacture of liquors for exportation. In -the following year this law was so amended as to permit the sale of -malt liquors; and in 1871 cities and towns were authorized to decide -annually by popular vote whether the sale of malt liquors should be -permitted. Repealed in 1873, this act and a number of others were -replaced by a license law, enacted in 1874 and supplemented in 1881 by -local option. Constant changes subsequently tended to deprive the trade -of stability and particularly of that complete security which lies at -the bottom of every industrial success. - -Although a prohibitory amendment to the Constitution was defeated in -Massachusetts by a popular majority of forty-six thousand votes, in -1888, thus clearly demonstrating the will of the people, professional -reformers continued their unwise opposition not only in this direction -but also against any discrimination in favor of fermented drinks; and -as a result every year brought forth additional restraints designed -to harass a trade which Hamilton, Jefferson, Madison and many other -eminent Americans, including Dr. B. Rush, the real father of the -temperance movement, regarded as the most efficient temperance -agency—an opinion which the scientific inquiry conducted by Dr. -Bowditch proved to be almost universal. With slight differences as -to time and mode, the trade labored and still labors under similar -disadvantages in the other States. To this incessant legislative -intermeddling, which frequently produced the most incongruous -propositions copied from monarchical institutions or borrowed from -small and insignificant cities totally unlike the great metropolis of -New England in every respect, must be attributed the fact that these -States are not now in the front rank of the brewing centres of this -country. Even so, the progress of brewing there is not inconsiderable. - -Without entering into wearisome statistical details it may be stated, -in a general way, that but for adverse legislation of the nature -here referred to—which, by the way, always tends to increase very -considerably the home-consumption and surreptitious sale of ardent -liquors—beer would in all probability be to-day the common drink of -the whole people, and drunkenness, very much diminished since the more -general use of beer, would be as rare to-day as it is in Bavaria. - -If we compare the increase of production in the entire country with the -output of Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Rhode Island -during the decade ending in 1895—Maine and Vermont having dropped out -of the list of beer-producing States—we shall find in such comparison -ample reason for regretting that unwise legislation (which Dr. Bowditch -rightly regards as a fruitful source of intemperance) prevented popular -taste and inclination from making malt liquors what they are in many -German states noted for the sobriety of their people. That there is -a strong popular inclination to adopt the lighter beverages is very -evident from the development of brewing in spite of all impediments. -The following figures illustrate the growth of brewing and afford an -intimation of the progress that would have been attained in the absence -of adverse measures: - - 1885. 1895. - - United States 19,216,630 barrels 33,469,661 barrels - Connecticut 128,226 “ 301,872 “ - Massachusetts 878,779 “ 1,336,345 “ - New Hampshire 322,055 “ 368,628 “ - Rhode Island 54,363 “ 188,968 “ - -During the next twelve years (1896 to 1907) radical changes took place -in two of the New England States. New Hampshire and Vermont adopted -stringent license-systems coupled with local option; but this change -from prohibition to regulation does not appear to have redounded to -the benefit of brewing. Vermont is still without a brewery and the few -brewing establishments which have existed in New Hampshire, even under -the operation of the prohibitory law, retrograded steadily, in point of -annual production. - -In both States, it seems, the rural population still adheres to -drinking habits fostered by and under the old régime, and the -population of the industrial centers, where as a rule beer finds its -most favorite markets in other States, is composed to a large extent of -French Canadians who are not commonly beer-drinkers. - -In Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island, on the other hand, the -condition of things, considering the instability of holdings under the -fluctuations of the license votes in the first-named State, seems to be -somewhat encouraging. - -During the period named, the production of beer in New Hampshire -decreased from 384,333 to 323,363 barrels. As to the New England group -as a whole, compared with the United States, the following figures -require no comment: - - Production 1896 Production 1907 - - United States 35,826,098 barrels 58,546,111 barrels - New England States 2,719,083 “ 3,704,968 “ - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - BREWING IN NEW YORK. - - -While the exact date of the beginning of brewing as a distinct calling -cannot be ascertained, there is an abundance of historical evidence -that among the very earliest acts of the Colonial governments, those -tending to encourage the establishment of public breweries were deemed -of the greatest importance. It is no less certain that whenever such -encouragement did not sufficiently stimulate private enterprise to -bring about the desired end, or when other reasons (hereafter to be -explained) made it desirable, the rulers of some of the Colonial -settlements seized upon this source of income themselves or granted -monopolies to those private persons who intended to establish -breweries. Thus Van Twiller, Governor of New Netherland from 1633 -to 1638, erected a brewery on the West India Company’s farm, which -extended north from what is now Wall Street to Hudson Street, and the -Patroon of Rensselaerwyck (the present counties of Albany, Columbia and -Rensselaer) established a brewery at Beverwyck (the present Albany), -reserving to himself the exclusive privilege of supplying all licensed -retailers. - -As this Director Van Twiller, mentioned above, is reputed to have -been a hard drinker, ever intent on finding or creating a suitable -occasion for indulging in his weakness, it is not hazardous to surmise -that in erecting a brewery, he consulted his own tastes quite as much -as the needs of his little community. His example is said to have -influenced the drinking habits of the colonists to such an extent that -drunkenness became a very common occurrence in the community. Captain -De Vries narrates a number of incidents illustrating the weakness of -Van Twiller, and among them is one which appears to deserve a place -in this little sketch. Cornelius Van Voorst, the stem from which grew -a numerous family famous in Manhattan and Jersey annals, was the -superintendent of the colony of Pavonia, established by Pauwn. He was -a man of hospitable inclinations, and had just imported a hogshead of -Bordeaux wine. The rumor of its excellent quality reached the ears of -Director-General Van Twiller, who, in company with Dominie Bogardus -and Captain De Vries, paid the superintendent a visit by means of a -rowboat. Van Voorst received the representatives of Church, State and -Navy with a princely welcome. The cask was broached and the contents -approved. After some hard drinking, a furious dispute about a recent -murder arose between the host, the Governor and the Dominie. De Vries, -the man of war, in this instance proved to be a man of peace, for by -the exercise of his mediation and more claret, a truce was finally -effected and “they parted good friends.” This is not the dull ending, -but merely the prelude to something more brilliant. Just as his guests -were entering their boat to depart, Van Voorst, to show his good will, -caused a swivel, which was fixed on a pillar near the house, to be -fired. It was a fine salute, but a piece of wadding, falling on the Van -Voorst mansion, set fire to the roof. It was impossible to check the -flames and the house was burned to the ground, presumably destroying -the hogshead of wine. - -The business of the tapster necessarily preceded that of the brewer; -for before the colonists could raise a crop of the cereals necessary -for brewing—which they did, by the way, according to Isaac Jogues’ -description of Novum Belgium, in the very first year after their -settlement—they had to depend upon the supply of liquors shipped to -them from the mother country; and, from all accounts, we learn that the -quantities thus imported were very large and, to modern minds, entirely -out of proportion to the very scant population of the colony. In the -earliest times, the condition and surroundings of the colonists were -such that all available means of subsistence had to be treated very -much like common property. Thus the West India Company undertook, at -first, to furnish the settlers with what they absolutely needed for -their sustenance,—the understanding being that the value of goods so -furnished must be returned by the borrower as soon as the product of -his labor enabled him to do so. This accounts for the fact that the -first taproom on Manhattan Island was located in the first warehouse -erected by Minuet, then Governor of New Netherland (1626-1633). - -[Sidenote: GOVERNOR KIEFT’S CURFEW] - -The number of tapsters, under Van Twiller’s administration, increased -rapidly; but there is no evidence that brewing kept pace with this -growth—probably because the importation of wines and liquors from the -mother country still sufficed to satisfy the demand. When, however, -in the first year of his administration (1638), Governor Kieft -forbade the retailing of wines and spirits by the tapsters (virtually -restricting the liquor traffic to the selling of beer) the brewing -trade expanded to such an extent that a few years later an excise upon -its product yielded a considerable revenue. From this time onward, -brewing and retailing formed the subjects of frequent legislation -both in New Netherland and in the New England colonies. The lawmakers -not only regulated and taxed the manufacture and sale, but they also -prescribed minutely the quality and price of beer, the time when, and -circumstances under which, it could be sold; the duties of the tapster -and the obligations of the drinker. Kieft forbade the tapping of beer -during divine service and after a certain hour at night; and, in -order to remind the burghers and tapsters of the latter inhibition, he -caused the town bell to be rung—an imitation of the old European custom -of announcing the hour for retiring. His object in introducing the -curfew (the Norman _couvre feu_)[2] was probably not confined to these -things; it is quite likely that he intended thus to force upon the -honest Dutch burghers the conviction that a man of strong will had come -to assume the powers and functions which the licentious Van Twiller -had permitted to be disregarded. Doubtless Kieft honestly endeavored -to correct the evils which had grown up under his predecessor’s rule; -but his motives were probably not always of a purely moral character. -In forbidding the retailing of wine and confining its sale to the -Company’s warehouse—“where,” as he stated in his proclamation, “it -could be obtained in moderate quantities and at a fair price”—he -intended no doubt to create for himself a monopoly of this traffic; -and in establishing a distillery on Staten Island, the first in -New Netherland, he very likely sought to enlarge the scope of his -monopoly. Fortunately, brewing had by this time grown too strong as an -independent enterprise to be absorbed by the Company in this singularly -arbitrary manner. It had become a favorite occupation, as a local -historian justly says; and many of the best and most respected citizens -engaged in it. - - [2] The old German night-watchman’s hourly song began with the - announcement of the hour of the night and the admonition to guard - fire and light. - -[Sidenote: BREWERS REVOLT AGAINST A TAX] - -Naturally enough, the rapid growth of brewing suggested to Governor -Kieft the expediency of levying a tax upon beer, and he imposed this -all the more readily because, in consequence of the Indian War which -he had provoked by a “shocking massacre of savages,” the treasury was -totally depleted. In 1644, he levied a tax of three guilders upon -every tun of beer manufactured by a brewer, and of one florin upon -every tun brewed by private citizens for their own use. Aware that -the imposition of this or any other tax without the consent of the -“Eight Men”—a sort of assembly representing the people—would meet with -little favor, he endeavored to propitiate the brewers by permitting -them to sell beer to tapsters at twenty florins per tun, an increase -over the old price almost covering the amount of the tax. The brewers, -nevertheless, stoutly refused to pay the excise, and based their -refusal upon the ground that the tax was imposed against the will of -the representatives of the people and, therefore, contrary to what they -conceived to be an inalienable right of every burgher. While their -opposition to a government without the consent of the governed may -not have been very clearly defined, the stout burghers of the colony -fully understood that taxation without the consent of the taxed was an -absolute wrong. - -The best historians accord in the opinion that the attitude of the -brewers, at that stage of the political development of the Colonies, -deserves the utmost praise and reflects all the more credit upon them, -because the inducements held out to them by Kieft in the form of a -permission to increase the price of their product, might have prompted -them to yield, if they had valued their profits more than the political -rights of their fellow citizens. The historian O’Callaghan, in his -History of New Netherland, expresses this view in these words: “Kieft -had no idea of being thwarted by such constitutional scruples. Judgment -was given against the brewers, and thus another victory was achieved in -New Netherland over popular rights.” - -In all likelihood, the brewers expected that the protest which the -Eight Men had openly raised against the excise would enable them to -maintain their refusal to pay; but while this expectation may have -had the effect of inspiring them with a degree of temerity which -would otherwise not have been aroused so readily, it detracts not a -particle from the praiseworthiness of their action. At all events, -if they calculated upon any leniency on Kieft’s part, they reckoned -without their host; for that arbitrary ruler not only disregarded the -remonstrances of the Eight Men and insisted upon payment of the tax, -but he even confiscated the whole stock of beer in the cellars of the -recalcitrant brewers and gave it to the soldiers—partly as a prize and -partly, no doubt, as an incentive to effective execution, on their -part, in the event of a popular demonstration. The brewers lost their -beer and their case, but they were lauded and they made a memorable bit -of history as the champions of popular rights. - -[Sidenote: MEN OF WORTH AND SUBSTANCE] - -We may be permitted to digress a little (though such digression must -necessarily carry us beyond the period of Kieft’s administration) -in order to mention a few of the many Colonial brewers whose names -are familiar to every New Yorker, even to this day. William Beekman, -brewer, was successively schepen, burgomaster of New Amsterdam for -nine years, vice-director of the Colony on the Delaware, sheriff at -Esopus, alderman, and again sheriff under English dominion—holding -office, with some interruption for forty years. He continued the -brewery of George Holmes, built in 1654, and died in 1707 at the age -of 84. Beekman Street is named after him, and also (it is claimed) -William Street. Peter W. Couwenhoven, brewer, was schepen in 1653 and -1654, and again in 1658-59 and 1661-63. Nicholas and Balthazar Bayard, -brewers, held office between 1683 and 1687; former as alderman and -mayor, and the latter as alderman. Petrus Rutger, brewer, was assistant -alderman from 1730 to 1732. The Rutgers were a family of brewers. -Jean Rutgers, their forefather, had a brewery in 1653, built probably -earlier. Alice, daughter of Anthony Rutgers, married Leonard Lispenard, -and one of the latter’s sons (Anthony) owned extensive breweries. The -name of Lispenard, says a local historian, is merged in the families -of Stewart, Webb, Livingstone, Winthrop, etc. John DeForrest, brewer, -was schepen in 1658. Jacob Kip, brewer, was schepen from 1659 to 1665, -and again in 1673. His ancestors, the DeKypes, belonged to the oldest -nobility of the Bretagne. - -Oloff S. Van Cortlandt, brewer, was burgomaster from 1653 to 1663 -(thirteen years of continuous service), and alderman in 1666, 1667 and -1671. If certain genealogical charts (usually considered reliable) -may be trusted, Van Cortlandt was a descendant of the Dukes of -Courland, Russia. He had a brewery in Stone Street, which in Dutch -days was appropriately named Brouwer, _i.e._, Brewer Street. His -daughter, Maria, married Jeremiah Van Rensselaer—lord of the colony of -Rensselaerwyck who also was founder of a brewery, namely, the one at -Beverwyck, before adverted to. Aert Teunison, a most influential man in -his days, established the first brewery at Hoboken, and made beer for -his neighbors until 1648, when he was killed by the Indians. Michael -Janson, the progenitor of the large Vreeland family, was the first -brewer at Pavonia, in 1654. Jacob Van Vleck, brewer, was alderman in -1684, 1685 and 1686. Martin Cregier, captain of the military company—a -man of considerable importance, who commanded several exploring parties -and subsequently became burgomaster—was the proprietor of a tavern -opposite Bowling Green in 1653, and doubtless also practiced brewing. - -We may now close this very incomplete list of prominent Colonial -brewers with the mention of one whose name is, and always has been, of -uncommon interest to historians, seeing that he was the first white -male born in New Netherland. Jean Vigne held the office of schepen -during three terms. He followed the threefold occupation of brewer, -miller and farmer, and owned a tract of land, the site of his brewery, -near Watergate (present Wall Street). - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - EXCISE IN NEW NETHERLAND. - - -We will now return to our narrative. At the time of the brewers’ -protest against the excise, the number of tapsters in New Amsterdam -and the surrounding country was very large; but, singular as it may -appear, there was but one tavern for the entertainment of strangers, -and this a clumsy stone building which Kieft had caused to be erected -at the Company’s expense in 1642. In that patriarchal spirit which -characterized all his acts, he assumed a close supervision over this -primitive hotel, the patronage of which must have been all the more -profitable because the Governor, to prevent the influx of runaway -servants and culprits, had prohibited the entertainment of strangers -by private families for more than one night without his permission. -This stone tavern was subsequently enlarged and fitted up for use as a -Stadthuis (City Hall). During the remainder of his administration Kieft -gave no further trouble to the brewers; but the tax continued to be -collected. - -When Kieft was recalled, and succeeded by Governor Stuyvesant, the -abolition of the excise was asked for, but was peremptorily refused. -The hope that the excise would be abolished had been raised by Kieft -himself, who had promised the Eight Men that upon the arrival of his -successor a change would be effected. Stuyvesant, however, had no such -intentions; on the contrary, he at once imposed new taxes, inaugurated -a system of excises and licenses, and introduced a number of -innovations designed to bring the business under better control. Thus, -he ordered the complete separation of brewing and tapping, forbidding -brewers to retail and tapsters to brew beer. Unlike his predecessor, -he desired an improvement in the accommodations for travellers, and -therefore ordered that tapsters and tavern-keepers should build better -houses for the entertainment of guests. But as the number of tapsters -and spirit venders had already grown too large, he refused to license -new places. Stuyvesant’s own report shows that, in 1651 or thereabouts, -nearly the just fourth of the City of New Amsterdam consisted of -brandy-shops, tobacco or beer-houses. This was certainly an exaggerated -statement; yet from all other evidences it must be inferred that the -consumption of liquors was enormous. We find, at a fair calculation -based on the two essential factors, viz.: amount of excise and -population, that the tax paid for drink amounted to four guilders for -every man, woman and child of the community. - -[Sidenote: GOVERNOR STUYVESANT’S REGULATIONS] - -It will be readily understood that the law prohibiting brewing by -tapsters yielded additional advantages to the brewers proper, and that -the tapping of beer by brewers in violation of the ordinance, occurred -very rarely. Yet so anxious was Stuyvesant to prevent evasions of his -orders that he even forbade brewers to sell or give beer by the small -measure to anyone—even to their boarders, “who, they pretended, came -at meal times to eat with them.” By way of additional safeguard, he -required the brewers to obtain a permit from the Secretary of the -Colony whenever they wished to remove beer from their brew-houses. - -To enforce all these new laws and ordinances, promulgated for the -sole purpose of securing as nearly as possible the full amount of -taxes due the exchequer, Stuyvesant appointed inspectors, gaugers and -revenue supervisors. Nevertheless, either on account of his natural -distrustfulness or because he wished to set a good example to his -officers, he frequently visited and inspected the taverns himself to -make sure that his laws were obeyed. Money still being scarce, he -increased the excise again and again, without permitting the brewers -to raise the price of their product, until the beer-drinkers loudly -complained that with every increase of tax, the brewers made their beer -“thinner and poorer.” These complaints finally induced him to adjust -the prices of beer in accordance with the increased cost of production, -and to prescribe minutely the quality of the article. - -It may interest the reader to learn that beer, in those days, was made -either of malted barley, wheat or oats, and that whenever there was a -scarcity of any of these cereals, the lawmakers usually forbade the -malting of it. Here, as in the New England colonies, the law provided -for three grades of beer: the first grade requiring six bushels of malt -for every hogshead; the second, four bushels; the third, two bushels. -Complaints about the quality of beer were sometimes investigated by -a court composed of the schepens and burgomasters. In 1655, when one -of the burgomasters and two of the schepens were brewers, this court, -being engaged in the consideration of such a complaint, adjourned and -personally sampled the beer in dispute; whereupon they gave judgment in -accordance with their own evidence. - -[Sidenote: CONFLICT WITH THE PATROON] - -Before the administration of Stuyvesant, the Patroons regulated the -liquor traffic in their own way. In Rensselaerwyck, the condition of -affairs now became somewhat muddled, as will presently be shown, in -consequence of the conflict of authority between the Patroon and the -representatives of the Director of the Colony. The manner in which the -Patroon first regulated the traffic was simple enough. - -As we have already stated, he established a brewery with the exclusive -privilege of supplying all licensed retailers with beer; but he -permitted private individuals to brew whatever beer they needed -for their own families. Subsequently, however, other brewers were -licensed. In the dorp (village) of Beverwyck—the present Albany—which -had sprung up in the immediate neighborhood of Fort Orange, and, in -fact, throughout the colony, permission to build houses, establish -stores, factories, shops, beer-houses, etc., had to be obtained from -the Commissaries to whom the government was entrusted. This permission -had to be paid for in some instances, while in others it was given -gratuitously. - -As a rule, the license to brew beer for sale did not belong to the -latter category; on the other hand, the fee for such license seems -to have been very high. In 1647, Jean Labadie, formerly an assistant -commissary, applied for permission to build a brewery, which was -granted on his paying a yearly duty in the shape of beaver, amounting -in value to about eighty dollars. Many other licenses had been granted -since then, and the number of tapsters seems to have been very large; -good reasons why the Court at Fort Orange, representing the Stuyvesant -Government, should insist upon the payment of the tax. - -The Patroon, however, frustrated the first attempt to collect the -excise and issued a proclamation expressly forbidding the brewers -and tapsters to pay any duties. The tapsters, of course, readily -obeyed this order. Finally, Stuyvesant ordered the Court at Orange to -arrest one of the refractory tapsters, named Ariensen, and send him -to Manhattan. The clerk of this court, Johann De Decker, successfully -carried out this order by a ruse. He invited the unsuspecting -Ariensen to his house and detained him, in spite of the protests of -Van Rensselaer and the “schout” of the colony, and notwithstanding -the offer of the former to vouch for the appearance of the prisoner. -Ariensen, although compelled for security’s sake, to sleep in De -Decker’s bed and to be watched over by a servant, managed to escape -and took refuge in the house of Van Rensselaer. De Decker pursued the -fugitive with the intention of re-apprehending him, but was met by a -body of armed men who appeared determined to use force of arms, if -necessary, to prevent the officer from fulfilling his duty. Bloodshed -would inevitably have followed an attempt to recapture Ariensen, and, -to avoid this, the officer retired, reporting the failure of his -mission to the Director and asking that more soldiers be sent with him, -having “among them one or two who are not nice about taking hold of a -man.” - -As was to be expected, Stuyvesant resorted to measures which soon -rendered the Patroon amenable to law and order, and the revenues -derived from tapsters alone rose, within one year, from an -insignificant sum to 4,200 guilders, in 1657. Nothing noteworthy -occurred thereafter during Dutch dominion. - -Nicolls, the first English Governor of New Netherland, paid some -attention to brewing. Among the laws which he submitted to the Assembly -convened at Hempstead, and which are known as the Duke of York’s Laws, -was one providing that no person should be allowed to brew beer for -sale without having “sufficient skill and knowledge in the art and -mystery of brewing,”[3] and otherwise regulating the trade with a view -to securing wholesome beverages. He also introduced the fee-feature -into the license-system governing retailers. In his endeavor to -conciliate the conquered Dutch burghers, he, however, refrained for a -time from strictly enforcing this rule and other excise-regulations -contemplated by his principal. It was not until 1670 that he gave -peremptory orders for the collection of the excise. - - [3] The first regular brew-master (in the modern sense of the - word) was probably R.H. Vansoest, who came to Albany in 1635 to - take charge of the Patroon’s brewery. - -From the date of the recovery of the Colony by the Dutch up to the -second surrender to the English (1674), the liquor traffic received -but casual attention in New York; and for many years after the -re-establishment of English supremacy, the annals of the Colony contain -no indications of great progress in brewing. - -In the succeeding chapters the further development of brewing in New -York receives sufficient attention to justify our closing this chapter -at this point so as to avoid useless repetitions, and to prevent the -overtaxing of the reader’s patience. - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - BREWING IN PENNSYLVANIA. - - -In New Castle and Delaware River the Duke of York’s laws remained in -force until 1682, when they were superseded by the acts passed by -Penn’s Assembly. William Penn introduced brewing into Pennsylvania at -a very early date. He built a brewery near his house at Pennsbury, and -all his acts and ordinances indicate a decided preference for malt -liquors. It was under his fostering care that the “infant industry” -prospered for a time and made Quaker beer quite famous. - -To the excellent quality of this beer and the abundance of it may -be attributed the fact that brewing had not, at that time, gained a -foothold in West New Jersey, the colonists there drawing their supply -from the Quaker brewers in the adjoining Colony. Deputy-Governor Gowen -Laurie, one of the proprietors of West New Jersey, made an effort, -in 1683, to have a brewer sent to him from England. A malt-house had -already been established at Amboy, “but”, wrote Laurie, “we want a -brewer, and I wish thou wouldst send one to set up a brew-house.” The -Swedish settlements on the Delaware seem to have reaped a sufficient -harvest from the vines which they had planted to secure them an ample -supply of wine. - -It seems that all the colonists had conceived the idea that it would be -very easy to make their new home a wine-country, and it was but natural -that the German settlers, by far the greater number of whom came from -the Palatinate and the Rhine provinces famed for their wines, should -have thought so. The seal of Germantown bears a bunch of grapes, -among other symbolical devices, and the inscription _Vinum, Linum et -Textrinum_; but although the city became famous for its linen, its -wine never amounted to much. Here, however, as in Philadelphia and all -succeeding settlements, brewing prospered for a while. - -When Penn assumed control of his colony, he probably found but a single -tavern within his domain, _i.e._, _The Blue Anchor_, located at what -is now known as Dock Street. The records show that with increasing -population the number of taverns also increased, and early laws and -regulations seem to indicate an excess of supply over demand. A law -enacted in 1699 authorized the governor to license taverns and suppress -disorderly houses. Subsequently, other regulations, conceived in a -spirit of paternalism, aimed at the fixing of prices and of the quality -and quantity of food and drink to be served at taverns. From these -regulations it appears plainly that beer was considered a regular and -indispensable part of every meal, and this fact explains why brewing -flourished in the early part of the colony’s history. - -Not all beers, however, were of the kind referred to before. Neither -domestic malt nor hops could be procured in sufficient quantities to -supply so large a demand and as a consequence the colonists fell back -upon the manufacture of what might be styled a new kind of mead. We -have it on the assurance of Penn himself that “molasses when well -boiled with sassafras or pine infused into it” makes a very tolerable -drink. - -Beer-drinkers probably preferred hops and malt, and when the -short-sighted policy of the lawmakers imposed exorbitant duties upon -imported hops and malt before enough of these materials could be raised -at home, and at the same time fixed the price of domestic malt-beer and -its quality at a rate which made the business unprofitable, brewing -naturally declined, and in the logical course of things molasses was -then transformed into rum or the latter article imported in the place -of the former. - -The evil effects of this policy must have become manifest almost -instantaneously for as early as 1713 Governor Gordon deplores the -decadence of brewing and the almost total discontinuance of the -cultivation of hops and barley. After various futile experiments to -remedy the evil the lawmakers in 1722 imposed a duty upon molasses, -primarily to discourage the manufacture of rum, and enacted several -laws designed to encourage the brewing of beer made of grain (not -necessarily barley) and of hops. One of the principal inducements was -the entire separation of the sale of beer from the liquor traffic and -the exaction of a very low license-fee from the keepers of ale-houses. -The use in brewing of molasses, sugar or honey was absolutely -forbidden, and both the brewers and the brewing tavern-keepers were -compelled to give security ($500.00) for the faithful observance of the -provisions of the act relating to permissible materials. - -The law distinctly sets forth that one of its objects is to induce -“the brewers to take special care to bring their beer and ale to the -goodness and perfection which the same was formerly brought to, that -so the reputation which then was obtained and is since lost, may be -retrieved.” - -The same law directs that the proper officers in fixing the prices of -commodities “shall allow higher prices than common to be taken for -such beer and ale as shall excel in quality.” Economically considered, -the laws fixing the price as well as the quality of the commodity, -frequently without regard to cost of raw material and labor and almost -always without due consideration of the condition of crops and the -market, was a serious error and the very text of the quoted Act seems -to indicate that the lawmakers had begun to understand the far-reaching -effect of this blunder. - -One other object of the law, as stated therein, was to encourage the -cultivation of hops and of wheat and barley. We know that Pennsylvania -ultimately became an important grain-growing country, but we also know -that partly as a result of such unwise legislation as has already -been referred to, the surplus grain found its way into distilleries. -Subsequent legislation, such as the act forbidding the sale of liquors, -_excepting beer_, to iron-workers within two miles of a foundry, or the -one permitting only the sale of beer and cider on the muster-fields of -the militia, had little effect upon the drinking habits of the people, -in many parts of the colony. In 1733 the Pennsylvania _Gazette_, -dilating upon this condition of things, stated that Philadelphia women -“otherwise discreet, instead of contenting themselves with one good -draught of beer in the morning, take two or three drams, by which their -appetite for wholesome food is destroyed.” - -Between the rum or molasses imported from the West Indies in the -earlier periods and the subsequent spread of rural distillation, -brewing had scarcely any chance of a healthy development; nevertheless, -it continued to be practiced in the principal towns, particularly where -the German element preponderated. It was an economic fallacy of the age -that in grain-growing countries agriculture could not possibly prosper -without the distillery—a fallacy which prevailed in the northern -countries of Europe and could not but find universal approval during -the pioneer period of a new country where the means of transportation -were exceedingly scant. In the rural districts the number of stills -increased in proportion to their remoteness from the centers of -civilization and in some parts whiskey actually took the place of money -as a medium of barter, just as in a previous period rum had been the -main stay of foreign commerce. - -In 1790 there were no less than 5,000 stills in operation in the -State of Pennsylvania, that is to say, one still for every 86 of the -population. Long before this period public attention had been directed -by public writers and speakers to the temperate drinking-habits which -prevailed in most of the German settlements, and naturally enough, -on all such occasions, brewing was advocated as a means of promoting -temperance. - -In his “Account of the manners of the German inhabitants of -Pennsylvania,” Benjamin Rush dwells with particular emphasis upon the -fact that these people, whom he praises for their probity, frugality, -economy, love of liberty and country, commonly drink beer, wine and -cider, and he makes this fact one of the principal arguments in favor -of his famous temperance scheme. Many other writers then and thereafter -coincided with him in this view; among them Tench Coxe who “considered -it a fact strongly in favor of the industry, sobriety and tranquillity -of Philadelphia that its breweries (at the beginning of the nineteenth -century) exceeded, in the quantity of their manufactured liquors, those -of all the seaports of the United States.” - -This may seem all the more remarkable on account of the growth of the -distilleries after the abolition of the first Federal tax on spirits, -brought about in a measure by the Whiskey Rebellion; but it will not in -any way appear astonishing, if the character of the population of that -city be borne in mind. - -Philadelphia beer had retained its reputation for excellent quality -even during the era of free whiskey, when brewing throughout the -country seemed to be in the last stages of hopeless decline; but it -must not be supposed that in even this city of beer-drinkers the -production kept anything like an equal pace with the increase of -population. - -Enough has already been said on this subject in the chapters on brewing -in New England and more will be said in the two chapters on the decline -of brewing and on the rise of lager beer to render unnecessary a more -detailed account. - -In 1810 there were in operation in Pennsylvania 48 breweries with an -aggregate annual output amounting to 71,273 barrels; New York had only -42 breweries and an annual production of 66,896 barrels. The output -of all the other States of the Union amounted to but 44,521 barrels. -Pennsylvania remained in the lead during about 20 years, when it had to -yield first place to New York. The marvellous growth of brewing in the -West did not change the relative position of these two States in point -of production, but it changed completely the status of the industry, as -we shall presently show. - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - BREWING IN THE SOUTH. - - -In the Southern provinces, unfavorable soil and climate conspired with -other unpropitious circumstances to exclude brewing almost entirely. -Sporadic attempts to introduce it were quickly frustrated, no less by -reason of a lack of suitable raw material than on account of a want of -skilled brewers; and also, perhaps, because domestic spirits could be -had more cheaply. - -[Sidenote: VIRGINIA] - -In Virginia, as early as 1652, one George Fletcher had obtained the -exclusive right to “brew in wooden vessels, which none had experience -in but himself;” but his product evidently found little favor, for we -read no more of him or his wooden vessels. - -From the instructions given to the governors of Virginia by the London -Company and from other equally direct evidences, it is to be inferred -that the repression of excesses in drinking, and the creation of -agricultural conditions favoring the home-production of wine and beer -were the two principal objects of the government’s care. The latter -project, for reasons already indicated, failed of realization. - -The common beverages then used by the people were imported wines, -strong beer and ardent spirits, and domestic beer, of which latter an -inconsiderable quantity was brewed in the households of the colonists. -The former drinks were retailed not only by keepers of ordinaries -(taverns), but also by victuallers and merchants. Debts for wine -and ardent liquors were excluded from the obligations pleadable in -court. No mention is made of beer in this connection, and from the -exception thus made it is fair to conclude that a discrimination in -favor of malt liquors was intended. Without further corroboration this -inference might be exposed to the reproach of being far-fetched; but, -fortunately, such corroboration is not wanting. It is contained in -an act, passed in 1644, which provides, among other things, “that no -ordinary keeper or victualler _be permitted at all to sell or utter any -wine or strong liquor_ BUT STRONG BEER ONLY. And that, according to -order of the first of August, 1643, no debts made for wines and strong -waters, shall be pleadable or recoverable in any court of justice in -this Colony.” - -A double discrimination is here made in favor of malt liquors, viz., -one in explicit terms, permitting the sale of strong beer only, and an -implied one in the clause which excludes debts for wines and strong -waters (not for beer) from the list of obligations legally pleadable. -The fact is that beer was considered an indispensable part of every -regular meal. - -Among the “staple commodities” sought to be encouraged by law, in 1658, -we find hops and wine; the premium on the latter being ten thousands -pounds of tobacco for “two tunne of wine” raised in any colonial -vineyard. - -The importation of English malt and malt liquors increased rapidly, -because domestic brewing and malting remained in an unsatisfactory -condition. Roger Beverly gives the following interesting description of -the manufacture and use of drinks at about this time: - -“The richer sort generally brew their small beer with malt, which they -have from England, though they have as good barley of their own as -any in the world; but for want of the convenience of malt-houses, the -inhabitants take no care to sow it. The poorer sort brew their beer -with molasses and bran; with Indian corn malted by drying in a stove; -with persimmons dried in cakes, and baked; with potatoes; with the -green stalks of Indian corn cut small and bruised; with pompions; and -with the _batates canadenses_, or _jerusalem artichoke_, which some -people plant purposely for that use, but this is the least esteem’d of -all the sorts before mentioned. - -“Their strong drink is _Madeira_ wine, which is a noble strong wine; -and punch, made either of rum from the _Caribbee_ Island, or brandy -distilled from their apples, and peaches; besides _French brandy_, wine -and strong beer, which they have continually from England.” - -In 1748, the Sabbath question first entered into legislation on the -liquor traffic. No mention is made of the subject in any of the -preceding acts, not even in those passed during the Cromwellian reign, -when the Puritan idea, that the State should by legislative enactment -enforce complete inactivity and abandonment to spiritual contemplation -on Sunday, had gained popular favor. The act passed in that year -contained the following clauses referring to the Sabbath: - - ... “If any ordinary-keeper shall in his house permit unlawful gaming, - or suffer any person or persons to tipple in his house, or drink any - more than is necessary, on the Lord’s day, or any other day set apart - by public authority for religious worship, ... the court may disable - such offender from keeping ordinary thereafter, until they shall think - fit to grant him a new license, or may restore him to keep ordinary - upon his former license, as they shall see cause.” - -In 1769 the cause of temperance achieved two signal successes; one -consisting in the revocation of the import duty on beer, and the other -in the renewal of legislation encouraging viticulture. The idea of -fostering the manufacture of malt liquors found many advocates at this -time, and there can be no doubt that many of the best Americans strove, -by precept and example, to bring about a change of drinking habits, -in the manner indicated, long before the passage of the two acts just -cited. - -As to the encouragement of wine-making in Virginia, we have seen that -it dates back to the earliest periods of Colonial legislation, and -that then it was suggested by the abundance of grapes found everywhere -by the first settlers. Neither these early attempts nor subsequent -efforts led to any lasting results, because viticulture was not -understood by the English colonists, while the French vintners, who, on -uncommonly favorable terms, had been induced to emigrate to Virginia -on the condition that they plant vineyards and instruct the colonists -in viticulture, failed to do what was expected of them, finding the -planting of tobacco to be more profitable. - -The sporadic attempts to encourage the manufacture of malt liquors was -equally unsuccessful. The inducements offered to hop growers, even -if they had been sufficiently alluring to tempt farmers to abandon -the profitable cultivation of tobacco, could not have over-balanced -the many difficulties which climate and the absence of industrial -enterprise placed in the way of brewing. There was another drawback, -however,—the cheapness of domestic spirits, which were not burdened by -internal taxes. - -[Sidenote: MARYLAND] - -Under circumstances and conditions similar to those prevailing in -Virginia, the brewing trade in this Colony lagged far behind the -comparatively rapid progress achieved in other respects. Enterprising -Dutchmen from the settlements on the Delaware had intended years before -to emigrate to Maryland for the purpose of introducing the brewing -industry there; but a want of capital and other obstacles had deterred -them from carrying out their plans. In 1676 there were no malt-houses -in the province, and the planters, chiefly engaged in raising tobacco, -saw no inducement to plant barley or any other cereal, beyond what -they needed to make bread with. The poorer people brewed small beer -from Indian corn dried in common stoves, and from molasses mixed with -bran. As beer constituted an indispensable part of every meal, it is -reasonable to assume that tavern-keepers brewed a similar beer, unless -they could obtain malt either from England, or from one of the other -American colonies. - -There appears to have been no lack of orchards at this time, and many -planters made their own cider, and also brandy from apples. The fact -that the law against selling liquors on Sunday contained a separate -clause enjoining owners of orchards not to violate the said act, proves -that these persons made a practice of selling their products. - -Like their colleagues of Virginia, the lawmakers of this Colony -honestly strove to encourage the domestic manufacture of fermented -beverages, and, also like the Virginians, they believed that nothing -would serve this laudable aim better than to make the domestic product -cheaper than the imported article. - -Of curious interest is a resolution of the Assembly, embodied in -an act passed in 1674, declaring that “noe rates of prices of anie -accommodacons be set or ascertained, but such only as are of absolute -necessity for sustaining and refreshing travelers, that is to say, -man’s _meat, beer and lodging_.” - -[Sidenote: THE CAROLINAS] - -The great difference between liquor licenses and wine licenses, in -the matter of fees, in Carolina, shows how consistently the lawmakers -adhered to the policy of favoring domestic viticulture. Even before -the time when the immigration of the French refugees began to assume -considerable proportions, wine made in the Colony from native grapes -had been sent to England, where “the best palates well approved of it.” -It was then the general impression that if the planters continued to -“prosecute the propagation of vineyards as industriously as they had -begun it, Carolina would in a short time prove a magazine and staple -for wines to the whole West Indies.” The proprietors of the Colony had -sent to the planters choice European grape-vines for transplantation, -and encouraged wine-making in many ways. The only impediment in the -way of a rapid development of viticulture appeared at that time to -consist in the want of skilled vintners. The French refugees, it was -hoped, would supply this want, and Carolina would in the end rival -France and the Rhenish countries in the quality of her wines. These -expectations were revived when the first colony of Switzers was -planted in the province, and again, many years later, when the poor -Germans, whom Stumpel had allured from their homes on the banks of -the Rhine, were settled at Londonderry. Unfortunately for the cause -of temperance, these expectations were not realized, owing to the -cheapness of ardent spirits, which, before the end of the first half of -the eighteenth century, had completely changed the tastes and habits of -drinkers. That this was the real cause of the failure of every effort -to foster viticulture, appears not to have been understood at the -time. Indeed, as late as 1779 Alexander Hewitt, in his history of the -Colony, expressed the belief, that the repeated failures were mainly -attributable to the want of encouragement. “European grapes,” he wrote, -“have been transplanted, and several attempts made to raise wine; but -so overshaded are the vines planted in the woods, and so foggy is the -season of the year when they ripen, that they seldom come to maturity. -But as excellent grapes have been raised in gardens where they are -exposed to the sun, we are apt to believe that proper methods have not -been taken for encouraging that branch of agriculture, considering its -great importance in a national view.” - -No methods whatever could have made viticulture a favored occupation, -so long as cheap rum monopolized the drink market. Indeed, after the -rum habit was once firmly established, it would have been somewhat -difficult, even under the most favorable conditions, to introduce -either brewing or wine-making, because, owing to the change in the -taste of drinkers, there would have been no demand for either beer -or wine. If during the first century, or even half century, rum -had been as difficult to obtain and consequently as expensive as -European spirits, the colonists would in all probability have brought -viticulture or brewing to that stage of development which would -have answered the domestic demand. We have it on the authority of a -contemporaneous writer, that as early as 1680, Mr. Lynch, “an ingenious -planter,” had raised “barley of which he intended to make malt for -brewing English beer and ale.” He had all the necessary utensils for -that purpose, and would probably have succeeded himself and found -successful imitators, if it had not been for the rapid development of -the rum traffic. - -[Sidenote: GEORGIA] - -General Oglethorpe’s description of the effects of the rum habit in the -older settlements induced the trustees of this province to pass “an act -to prevent the importation and use of rum and brandies in the province -of Georgia, and any kinds of spirits or strong water whatsoever.” Far -from being identical with Prohibition in the modern sense of the term, -this act had for its object neither more nor less than a change of -drinking habits, to be effected by the substitution of wine and beer -for the drinks prohibited. The same trustees who passed the prohibitory -act, sent over large quantities of Madeira wine and strong beer; -and Oglethorpe exerted himself in furthering domestic brewing and -viticulture, which he conceived to be the only practicable means of -making the people temperate. In this, he merely reflected, as we have -seen, the opinions of the early lawmakers of nearly every Colony; but -he went further in carrying out this idea than they did—in fact, he -went too far, and thus overreached his object. - -At the present day, the experiment made in Georgia over one hundred -and sixty years ago, is highly interesting because it confirms the -conviction, entertained by all those who have studied the drink -question, that no temperance efforts can ever be successful unless they -are accompanied by all the conditions that favor abundant production -and consequent cheapness of good and palatable fermented drinks. Exert -himself as he would, Oglethorpe could not supply beer or wine in such -quantities and at such prices as to ensure the success of his measure. -In the settlements of the Salzburgers the taste of the people helped -to further his object; but even there, the drink called beer, which -was made of molasses, sassafras and the tops of fir trees, proved but -a poor substitute, scarcely calculated to satisfy a German palate. -Oglethorpe fully understood that a steady and abundant supply of cheap -beer was absolutely required to render the prohibitory act effective. -In a letter to the trustees written at Fredericia,[4] under date of -October 7, 1738, in which he urgently requested that fifty or sixty -tuns of beer from the brewery of Hucks at Southwark be sent him, he -said: “Cheap beer is the only means to keep rum out.” It is extremely -doubtful, whether under then existing circumstances cheap beer would -have sufficed to keep out rum. There were other considerations -which militated against Oglethorpe’s purpose. His own people were -dissatisfied with the law; they conceived it to be detrimental to their -material interests, inasmuch as it debarred them from trading with the -West Indies, “an excellent and convenient market for their lumber,” -as Hewitt has it. Besides, they were of the opinion, held by many -competent judges in our time, that the climate of the province rendered -the use of rum advisable from a sanitary point of view. The Carolinians -could not be prevented from bringing rum into the Colony, although -after the first altercation, which arose on account of this practice, -they promised to desist from it. Hence rum could easily be had; and it -is not difficult to understand that so long as good rum could be had -cheaply, men accustomed to ardent liquors would not at short notice -make poor beer their everyday beverage. Even Oglethorpe’s immediate -_entourage_ could not be induced to discard rum for the questionable -drink which he furnished them from his brewery at Jekyl. “Settlers -and officers,” says McCall, in his History of Georgia, “were known to -retire from the presence of the general into an adjoining apartment in -order to drink.” But, worse than all, the magistrates themselves, who -had the power to license ale-houses, and were instructed to prevent and -punish the sale of ardent spirits, engaged in the unlawful traffic, or -openly connived at it. - - [4] The following curious episode of Oglethorpe’s journey to - Fredericia is reproduced in C.C. Jones’ “Dead Towns of Georgia”: - “Mr. Ogelthorpe accompanied them in his scout-boat, keeping the - fleet together, and taking the hindermost craft in tow. As an - incentive to unity of movement, he placed all the strong beer on - board one boat. The rest labored diligently to keep up; for, if - they were not all at the place of rendezvous each night, the - tardy crew lost their rations.” - -No more need be said to show that the act was practically a dead -letter, long before its repeal in 1742. A modern historian, the -Rev. William B. Stevens, a sincere friend of true temperance, in -reviewing Oglethorpe’s efforts to substitute wine and beer for ardent -spirits, says that “Georgia was designed to be a temperance colony, -although no temperance movement had roused up the nations to the woe -of drunkenness.” And again: “Thus did temperance strive with charity -to lay pure foundations, and build up a spotless superstructure of -colonial virtue; but it was a movement too much in advance of the age, -and too much opposed to the already settled habits of the colonists, -to meet with the success it merited.” A temperance colony with pure -foundations and a spotless superstructure of virtue by means of the -substitution of fermented drinks for ardent liquors! - -The Salzburgers were not the only people of temperate drinking habits -whom Oglethorpe settled in his colony. Before them had come the -Moravians—mostly beer-drinking Germans—men and women of rare virtue -and sincere piety, who embarked for Georgia on the same ship with -the Governor and with John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, at -present the creed of nine million Americans. Wesley, to quote Robert -Southey’s words “was so deeply impressed with the piety, simplicity -and equanimity of these, his shipmates,” that he applied himself to -the study of the German language in order to be able to converse with -them more freely. He had seen them frequently during their tempestuous -voyage, facing the menace of death with the unflinching calm and -resignation of their absolute “Gottvertrauen,” and it was doubtless -on this voyage that he conceived the desires which, upon his return -to England, made him a disciple of Peter Boehler, then on the eve of -his departure for Georgia, and prompted him to visit the Moravians in -Germany. - -Neither the Moravians nor the Salzburgers of Georgia seem to have -received at the hands of modern historians their due measure of -appreciation. The somewhat indulgent contempt with which Jones in -his “Dead Towns of Georgia” occasionally refers to the Salzburgers -reveals a total lack of appreciation of these pious, upright and sturdy -people whom one is strongly tempted to style the German Huguenots. -Like their French co-religionists they were driven out of the land of -their birth by the intolerance of tyrannical rulers, and, sacrificing -all they possessed for the sake of their faith, they sought homes in -foreign lands. Both were welcomed and received with open arms by the -father of Frederick the Great, who colonized seventeen thousand of the -Salzburgers in his provinces and would gladly have sheltered them all; -but a part of the exodus was diverted to other lands and of that part -Oglethorpe secured a few communities with their pastors whom he settled -in Georgia. - -Goethe immortalized the Salzburgers in his beautiful epic poem -“Hermann and Dorothea,”—“the German’s pride and poesy’s pearl”—and in -his history of Frederick the Great, Carlyle devotes one of his most -interesting chapters to them; but what ought to bring them nearer to -the American heart is the fact that Whitefield and Wesley called them -colonists of the best description, dwelling together in perfect peace -and harmony, without courts of law, referring all little differences -to their ministers whom they loved as their fathers. Wesley said of -the Georgia Moravians (all beer-drinking Germans) that they were “the -only genuine Christians he had ever met.” Whitefield said of the -Salzburgers’ spiritual leaders that he had “not often seen such pious -men.” No greater praise can be conceived than that which Bancroft, -America’s master historian, bestows upon the Salzburgers in the second -volume of his History of the United States. Jones’ veiled slur about -these people’s eagerness to get their beer shows a petty bias which -seems to crop up regularly whenever American historians lose sight of -the close relationship that exists between the Anglo-Saxon and their -Germanic cousins of other lands. - -Unbiased minds will appreciate Oglethorpe’s profound regret at his -failure to carry out his plans, all the more so, if the present -condition of things in Georgia be considered. - -In the “dead towns” of that State a tombstone may here or there testify -to the mundane existence of the Salzburgers; more rarely, perhaps, a -German patronymic, corrupted or Anglicized, may remind one of these -people; but that is practically all that is left of them. In Prussia, -however, their brethren flourished, forming a most useful, prosperous -and happy part of the population, who, as Carlyle puts it, had all -reason on their annual thanksgiving days “piously to admit that -Heaven’s blessing had been upon that King and upon them.” - -From a general point of view, considering the South as a whole, it -may be said that brewing had gained no firm foothold there during the -Colonial period in spite of the fact that, besides the Salzburgers, -there were several considerable German and Swiss settlements on the -Neuse and Cape Fear Rivers in North Carolina, on the Edisto River in -South Carolina, and in many parts of Virginia. - -In the middle of the last century, and in a few isolated cases somewhat -earlier, brewing received a strong impetus through the influx of -German immigrants, but the climate and other countervailing influences -retarded its progress, as we shall presently see, until at a much later -period improvements in the art itself and the perfecting of artificial -refrigeration enabled the Southern brewer to carry on a profitable -business adapted to the peculiar conditions of his environment. - -In the chapter entitled “The Rise of Lager Beer,” it will be shown what -disasters have befallen Southern brewing under the operation of recent -laws. - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - DECLINE OF BREWING. - - -Up to the Revolution the decline of brewing in the Colonies continued -until scarcely a vague recollection of its former flourishing condition -lingered in the minds of the people. Here and there, widely scattered -over an immense extent of territory, a few brew-houses whose product -had acquired an uncommon reputation—like the porters and ales of -Philadelphia—remained in operation; but their output was infinitesimal -as compared with the quantities of other inebriating liquors produced -and consumed in the country. True, the lawmakers improved every -available opportunity to hold out inducements to brewers and never -failed on such occasions to lament the total decay of the industry; but -however alluring the exemption from duties and excises, premiums on -domestic hops, and the protection of malt and beer may have been, they -were insufficient to counterbalance other economic factors—such, for -example, as the cheapness and popularity of rum, which the legislator -could not neutralize. - -Hence, with the exceptions already adverted to, brewing relapsed -into the primitive state in which we found it at the beginning of -its Colonial career, again becoming a domestic industry wherever a -lingering taste for malt beverages induced the people to set up the -discarded kettles, and to brew their own beer, from time to time. In -like manner, tavern-keepers recommenced brewing in order to supply -those of their customers who still preserved a taste for beer; and -the quantities thus brewed for home consumption, in the narrowest -sense of the term, may not have been inconsiderable; but we have no -way of determining, even approximately, how large this production -was. Such beers were not, of course, of a very good quality; and this -explains the well-authenticated fact that the few regular brewers who -still continued to brew were overrun with orders from the tapsters. -Of a certain Quaker brewer it is reported that, toward the end of the -eighteenth century, he used to hold receptions in the old Rainbow Inn, -in Beekman Street, New York, whither came his customers, with hat in -hand, to pay their respects and solicit a supply of ale! - -During the war, when commercial intercourse with England was completely -shut off, and the importation of merchandise from other countries -hampered by many dangers, domestic brewing revived in a measure; but -the unsettled state of affairs prevented anything like a complete -resuscitation of the trade. From all we can learn it appears that the -increased activity in this field of labor was confined to an effort -to produce the quantities of malt liquors which before the war had -been imported from England; but even this object was not, in all -probability, fully accomplished, because other more pressing needs -confronted the struggling people. - -For a short time after the re-establishment of peace, the slight -impetus thus given to brewing derived an additional force from a pretty -general movement in favor of malt liquors, based alike upon moral -considerations and economic requirements. We refer to the movement -begun by Dr. Benjamin Rush and carried forward by a strong organization -for many years after its inauguration. It was during this period that -many small breweries were erected in the towns along the Hudson in -the State of New York, and in Pennsylvania. Philadelphia, where the -movement referred to originated, at once became the greatest brewing -city in America, the brew-houses there exceeding in number and the -quantity of manufactured beer, those of all the seaports of the United -States. - -[Sidenote: PROGRESS UNDER DIFFICULTIES] - -That the brewing industry progressed considerably in those localities -where it was introduced, shortly before and after the Revolution, is -evidenced by a number of circumstances. As early as 1807 the production -of malt liquors, according to Gallatin’s statement, was nearly equal -to the consumption, yet the importation of malt into Pennsylvania had -already ceased in 1793; thus showing that the adjuncts of brewing in -the large establishments were rapidly being perfected. In Philadelphia, -where the agitation in favor of the substitution of fermented liquors -for ardent spirits had found most favor, the use of beer had become -very general, and soon extended into the larger cities of adjoining -states. The state of the brewing industry in 1809-10 appears from the -following table, taken from the _Digest of Manufactures_: - - Beer, Ale - and Porter - States and Territories. Population. in Barrels - of 31½ - Gallons. - —————————————————————————————————————————————————————— - Massachusetts 700,745 22,400 - New York 959,049 66,896 - New Jersey 245,562 2,170 - Pennsylvania 810,091 71,273 - Delaware 72,674 476 - Maryland 380,546 9,330 - Virginia 979,622 4,251 - Ohio 230,760 1,116 - Georgia 252,433 1,878 - District of Columbia 24,023 2,900 - —————————————————————————————————————————————————————— - 4,655,505 182,609 - -The _per capita_ production of malt liquors in the States named (the -total amount produced being 5,754,737 gallons) amounted to almost one -and one-fourth gallons, or, to be precise, to 4.98 quarts. This does -not include what in the _Digest_ is styled ancient fermented liquors, -made of honey—the old German meth, here called metheglin and mead—of -which considerable quantities are said to have been produced and -consumed by private families. Surely, this is a gratifying development -of a new industry within so brief a period, and under difficulties of -which the present followers of the trade can scarcely form an adequate -idea. We quote the _Digest_: - -“The difficulty and expense of procuring a supply of strong bottles, -and a peculiar taste for lively or foaming beer, which our summers -do not favor, have been the principal causes of the inconsiderable -progress of the manufacture of malt liquors, compared with distilled -spirits. The absence, or the infrequency of malting, as a separate -trade, has also operated against brewing in a small way and in -families. The great facility of making and preserving distilled -spirits has occasioned them exceedingly to interfere with the brewery. -The liquor of peaches, hitherto deemed incapable of use without -distillation, greatly prevents the use of beer in a very extensive -region of our country, where the peach tree grows with the freedom of -a weed, and where its fruit is of the best quality. Cider, which is -abundantly produced in another very extensive region, rivals fermented -malt liquors as a common drink, and as a material for a customary -concoction (the cider royal) and for distillation.” - -The want of bottles was pointed out during the discussions in the -first Congress, as an impediment to brewing; but the brewer of the -present day will scarcely appreciate the stress laid upon this want, -unless a full account could be given him of the character of the malt -liquors brewed in those days. Unfortunately, no such account can be -obtained; yet a conclusion may be ventured from the statement that, -until a Philadelphia brewer of the name of Robert Hare, invented, in -1809, a peculiarly constructed cask and faucet, no method was known -of preserving beer, on tap, in partly filled vessels. What the word -_preserving_ means in this connection will appear from the following -passage of the _Digest_: - - “The want of a head, or top of foam, is now observable in the tap - beers of Europe, and it is presumable that this object of fancy or - taste will not, therefore, be in future deemed indispensable in - American tap houses and families. We have been used to consider the - want of this foam as an evidence of badness.” - -That the use of the liquor of peaches prevented the introduction of -the brewing industry into the Southern States, is an observation of -as much force to-day as it was nearly a hundred years ago; but later -experiences have demonstrated the fact, that the influence of climatic -conditions, coupled with the high price of ice, is quite as unfavorable -to the industry as the abundance of fruit and the tastes of the people. -In addition to a scarcity of bottles, there was also a want of cork -and wire for bottling purposes. Establishments for manufacturing these -three articles were just beginning to grow into some importance, and, -of course, demanded protection, which was granted at least to one of -them. By the Act of March 27, 1804, quart bottles, which, in order to -foster the brewing industry, had theretofore been exempt from the duty -upon glassware, were taxed sixty cents per gross; yet the home supply -remained behind the demand. - -All these impediments, however, would not so materially have retarded -the progress of brewing, if laws tending to restrict country -distilling could have been maintained; and, from the standpoint -of true temperance, nothing could have appeared so desirable as a -judicious restraint upon what might be styled rural distillation. All -authorities concur in the opinion—confirmed by the voluminous report -of the Statistical Bureau of Switzerland—that in Sweden unrestricted -distillation in the rural districts rendered intemperance a national -vice of consequences all the more pernicious as, owing to the -unavoidable deficiencies of a primitive mode of distillation, the -spirituous liquors produced were of an extremely ardent nature. But -it was precisely in respect to country distilling that our first -restrictive laws were only partially successful. Those persons who -distilled for the trade cheerfully obeyed the laws from the very -beginning; and had they not elected to do so, little difficulty could -have been experienced in controlling and coercing them. It was not -the trade distiller, if this term may be allowed, but the distilling -farmer from whom the opposition to excises emanated, and with him, the -question resolved itself into one of personal rights, on the one hand, -and of a limitation of the taxing power of the Federal Government on -the other. - -Insufficient, both as to time and mode, as had been the test to which -the excise system was subjected, it was, nevertheless, proved beyond -question that, coupled with a sufficiently high import duty, it -could have fully realized the ethical objects of its framers, if the -Government had been able to execute it rigorously, and the people had -been willing to live up to it. - -At the end of the first decade of the last century rural distilling -recommenced with renewed vigor in all grain-producing States. From this -time onward the brewing industry developed somewhat more rapidly in -Pennsylvania and New York on account of the great influx of immigrants -from beer countries; while in the other States it either remained -stationary or progressed very slowly, constantly struggling against -great difficulties and impediments. The extent of the progress of -brewing within forty years, _i.e._, from 1810 to 1850, is clearly -stated in these figures: - - 1810: 129 breweries producing 5,754,737 gals. beer - 1850: 431 “ “ 23,267,730 “ - 1850: Production of beer in Penn. & N.Y. 18,825,096 “ - 1850: “ “ “ all other States 4,442,634 “ - -During all this time, and up to 1842, or thereabout, the beers produced -in this country were of the kind known as ale and porter, and some -of these had acquired a reputation for palatableness and strength -which rendered them formidable competitors of English ales in foreign -markets. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - THE RISE OF LAGER BEER. - - -Lager-beer, as a product of American industry, although introduced, -as has been intimated, about the year 1842, did not gain popular -favor until the decade following its introduction; nevertheless, all -authorities agree that it tended even at that time to impart a strong -impetus to brewing. As to the exact date of its introduction, and the -person by whom it was first introduced, there still exists so much -uncertainty that no writer on the subject has ventured to go beyond -mere hypothetical assertions. Did we not live in an enlightened age, -the mystery in which the origin of American lager-beer is shrouded -might add another legend to the many mythical tales which, variously -colored by different nations, are current concerning the father of -real beer. We say _real_ beer, for, although the use of a wine-like -beverage, extracted from barley, extends far into the prehistoric -ages, _real_ beer (that is, the drink known to us by that name) is of -more recent origin; yet, as to place and date of the latter, nothing -definite can be known. - -While some attribute the invention of hopped malt beer to Jan Primus -(John I), a scion of the stock of Burgundy princes, who lived about the -year 1251, others ascribe it to Jean Sans Peur (1371-1419), otherwise -known as Ganbrivius. A corruption of either name may plausibly be -shown to have resulted in the present name of the King of Beer, viz., -Gambrinus, whom we are accustomed to see represented in the habit -of a knight of the middle ages, with the occasional addition of a -crown. Popular imagination, it seems, attached so much importance -to beer that in according the honor of its invention, it could not -be satisfied with anything less than a king; just as the Egyptians, -in remote antiquity, ascribed the invention of their barley-drink to -their benevolent god Osiris, while the ancient Germans conceived of a -brew-house in Walhalla, under the supervision of a presiding deity. -As a bit of amusing anachronism, it may be mentioned that there is a -poetical apotheosis of Gambrinus, which elevates that personage to the -dignity of a heathen god, alongside of Bacchus. - -This slight digression from our subject, although showing how much -mystery has at all times clouded the origin and the originator of -beer, may not be regarded by our readers as a sufficient excuse for -our inability to supply the needed information; but, much as we may -regret this, we cannot help it. According to the testimony of the late -Mr. Frederick Lauer, who himself brewed lager-beer in 1844, the honor -of having first brewed the famous drink of to-day, belongs to one -Wagner, of whom it is said, that, shortly after his arrival in America, -in 1842, he set up a lager-beer brewery in a small building situated -in the suburbs of Philadelphia. Lauer enjoyed the reputation of a -walking encyclopedia of American brewing; as a matter of fact, he took -a prominent part in organizing the National Brewers’ Association and -bringing about concerted action by the brewers in all matters relating -to their trade, and kept himself well posted in all that concerned his -colleagues. In 1885, a few years after his demise, the United States -Brewers’ Association erected a monument to his memory in a public -square of Reading, Pa., the city in which he had spent the greater part -of his life. If lager-beer had been introduced before the date here -given, Lauer certainly would have known it. - -We may take it for granted, then, on Lauer’s authority, that lager-beer -was introduced in 1842. Within six years from that date, German -immigration began to assume unprecedented proportions; the hospitable -shores of our country became the refuge of a great number of highly -educated men, of skilled artisans and comparatively well-to-do -tradesmen. The total foreign population increased from 1850 to 1860 -at the rate of ninety per cent., and we may infer from the following -figures to what extent this great influx of beer-drinkers accelerated -the growth of brewing, and helped to increase the production of hops -and barley: - - Production Production Number Value of - Population of Hops of Barley of Malt - Pounds Bushels Brewers Liquors - - 1850—23,191,876 3,497,029 5,167,015 431 $5,728,568 - 1860—31,443,321 10,991,996 15,825,890 1,269 21,310,933 - -Brewing had its earliest Western outposts on the Ohio and Mississippi -and along the shores of Lakes Erie and Michigan. Pittsburgh, -Cincinnati, Buffalo, Cleveland, Detroit, St. Louis, Chicago, -Milwaukee—this is probably the order in which brewing spread out -westward, closely following the German immigrants from about the middle -of the thirties. In the fifties Pittsburgh, St. Louis and Cincinnati -had already begun their shipping trade, extending their operations as -far South as New Orleans. Even thus early that polyglot city had a few -local breweries which supplied their customers with a kind of small -beer, a beverage that had to be consumed immediately, lest it spoil -between delivery and dinner-time. It is not to be wondered at then, -that the New Orleans Germans hailed with delight the first consignments -of lager beer that reached them in the year 1851 from Pittsburgh and -St. Louis. The late J. Hanno Deiler, for many years professor of the -Tulane University and a local historian of enviable reputation, refers -to this in his “History of the German Press of New Orleans” in these -words: - -“As this consignment proved to be the first movement towards a -great transformation, leading to a change in the habits of the -population, inasmuch as it affected extensive commercial interests, -abolishing numerous small businesses, and in their place calling -into existence great industrial undertakings, employing millions of -dollars as capital, the circumstance of its introduction, unimportant -in itself as it may appear, assumes the significance of an epoch in -the history of culture that brings the past into direct relation with -present conditions, and is consequently entitled to more exhaustive -consideration.” - -It was at about this time that the old praise of beer was again sounded -with great vigor by many reformers. The third American temperance -movement (the first being that of the early Colonials and the second -the great agitation inaugurated by Rush) had again brought out the old -arguments in favor of fermented drinks. Those who signed the pledge -between 1810 and 1840 vowed to drink beer and cider only,—and even -prohibition, which up to 1855 had been rashly adopted in seventeen -States, but as quickly revoked or annulled in all but four of -them—stopped short of cider and domestic wine and in many instances of -beer. Now that the sobriety of the great mass of German beer-drinkers -again challenged such comparisons as we have before quoted from Rush’s -and Coxe’s writings, brewing again found many able advocates in the -ranks of the foremost reformers. - -Great as must have been the moral effect of these temperance -preachments, they could not, nor did they, affect the consumption -of beer which was then and really remained confined to the Germans -until after the enactment of the revenue law. Even so, however, the -territorial expansion of brewing within the decade preceding the -Civil War was truly wonderful. In 1863 there were 2,004 breweries in -operation, distributed over 31 States and Territories, and producing -over two million barrels of beer; a great part of which quantity was -retailed by the brewers themselves. - -Then, as now, New York stood at the head of the list in point of -production, followed, in the order given, by Pennsylvania, Ohio, New -Jersey, Illinois, Missouri, Massachusetts, California, Maryland, -Wisconsin, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, New Hampshire, Iowa, -Connecticut, Virginia, Minnesota, Rhode Island, Kansas, District of -Columbia, etc. Brewing was then still carried on in Maine and Vermont, -and breweries existed even in Utah and New Mexico. - -During the next twenty-five years brewing developed without the least -hindrance and attained to an economic importance second to but few -American industries. True, prohibition loomed up again and had to be -met at the polls; but although it gained a firm footing in two States, -it was defeated in fourteen others. It killed brewing in these States, -but its immediate results only helped to accelerate the growth of -brewing throughout the country. In many States beer had by this time -become the common drink of the people and even in the Southern States -the people welcomed the establishment of local breweries, rendered -possible by artificial refrigeration and the great improvements in the -process of manufacture. - -Just about this time, however, the prohibitionists seemed to have -realized that in so far as the consumption of beer was recommended -by the best minds as a measure of temperance, calculated to decrease -the use of spirits, in just so far did it help to counteract their -movement. From this time onward their whole agitation actually became -a fight against beer. But a majority of the newspapers and of rational -reformers still continued to advocate the use of the fermented drinks. - -[Sidenote: GROWTH OF TRUE TEMPERANCE] - -In 1881, Dr. Thos. Dunn English, the famous literary man, scientist and -physician, published a remarkable pamphlet in which he advocated and -justified the moderate use of beer. The eminence of Dr. English as a -writer and his unchallenged integrity as a public man, procured the -widest hearing for his views. The book was universally discussed and, -of course, called forth a storm of adverse criticism. But it made a -deep impression and in the light of the progress since achieved along -the line of true temperance, this modest little treatise by Dr. English -has prophetic as well as historical value. The following paragraph has -never been surpassed for terse wisdom and philosophic truth, in all the -literature of the subject: - -“The assumption by extremists that beer represses the finer emotions, -retards intellectual activity, destroys the physical power of the race, -leads to crime and pauperism, and does many other terrible things, is -simply absurd. Nothing can be farther from the truth. Certainly the -Germans compare favorably on these points with the Mussulmans, who are -claimed as water-drinkers. The latter have sadly degenerated since -the days when their victorious hordes overran Europe, and threatened -to place the crescent in triumph over the cross. I am aware that the -followers of Mohammed are not the abstinents they are supposed to be. -The Turks not only indulge in opium and tobacco, but in brandy—brandy -is not wine—the Eastern tribes in lagmi, and the strictest believers -in various alcoholic stimulants not coming from the grape, and so -outside of the letter of the prophet’s prohibition. But the Mussulmans -do not drink beer, and the Germans certainly do. The Anglo-Saxon -race rose to greatness under the consumption of vast amounts of ale, -and with indulgence in that stimulant kept up the steady vigor and -intellectual power of a race that has imposed its ideas and language -over a larger share of earth than any other people. In this country, -where the consumption of malt liquors has risen in seventeen years -from less than a million and three-quarter barrels to over thirteen -and three-quarter millions, have we degenerated as a people? Last year -over fourteen millions. Have we not manifestly gained by the partial -substitution of a beverage containing a small portion of alcohol and a -larger portion of nutritive matter for one containing fourteen times as -much stimulation and no nutritive element at all? If you could create -man over again, and make him other than his Maker has made him, you -might constitute him without a craving for stimulants or for heat-food -in its most concentrated form. As it is, the best you can do is to -lead his instinct and direct his habits into the safest channel for -both, and keep him in that as in all other things, within the bounds of -moderation.” - -Time has but strengthened the force of Dr. English’s argument, -while the production of beer has risen to over fifty-eight million -barrels and the consumption of whiskey has markedly decreased. This -extraordinary increase of production has been accompanied by a -pronounced gain in temperance and general well-being on the part of the -working classes, the chief consumers of beer. - -Dr. English’s conclusions as to the comparative virtue of malt liquors, -so furiously disputed on the publication of his little book, would -challenge very little controversy to-day. We have been making progress -in the interval, as witness these figures of beer production in the -United States: - - Barrels Barrels - - 1880 13,347,111 1894 33,362,373 - 1881 14,311,028 1895 33,589,784 - 1882 16,952,085 1896 35,859,250 - 1883 17,757,892 1897 34,462,822 - 1884 18,998,619 1898 37,529,339 - 1885 19,185,953 1899 36,581,114 - 1886 20,710,933 1900 39,330,849 - 1887 23,121,526 1901 40,517,078 - 1888 24,683,119 1902 44,478,832 - 1889 25,119,853 1903 46,650,730 - 1890 27,561,944 1904 48,265,168 - 1891 30,021,079 1905 49,522,029 - 1892 31,855,626 1906 54,651,636 - 1893 34,591,179 1907 58,622,002 - 1908 58,814,033 - -[Sidenote: A REVOLUTION IN DRINKING HABITS] - -The lesson conveyed by these figures is irresistible and as such is -accepted by all impartial students of the drink question. Prof. Henry -W. Farnam says, in his preface to “Economic Aspects of the Liquor -Problem,” published under the auspices of the Committee of Fifty: - -“Since 1840 there has been a steady substitution of malt liquors for -distilled liquors in the consumption of the people. While there has -been an increase in the total quantity consumed, the substitution -of light drinks for strong drinks has brought about a diminution -in the amount of alcohol consumed per capita. Moreover, though the -_per capita_ consumption of malt liquors has been nearly stationary -since 1890, the consumption of distilled liquors has fallen by nearly -one-third in that time. How far modern methods of production have -influenced this change, how far it is due to German immigration or -other causes, cannot be stated with certainty. The fact remains that -our progress has been in the direction of moderation.” - -Although the statement that the per capita consumption of beer has been -nearly stationary since 1890 is no longer correct, we have nevertheless -quoted these words because they reflect the views of unbiased students -as to the rôle of beer. - -A comparison between the consumption of beer and spirits shows at a -glance that, as a nation, we have progressed in the direction of true -temperance at a rate and to an extent unequaled in history. Instead -of being at the head of the list of hard-drinking nations—as we -undoubtedly were fifty years ago—we now rank foremost among temperate -peoples. By a singular coincidence, our Department of Commerce -and Labor lately published comparative liquor statistics almost -simultaneously with several official and private publications of -foreign origin, dealing with the same question. In all these documents -one important fact stands out in bold relief, and that is, as the -Department of Commerce and Labor expresses it, that “this country is -well-nigh at the end of the list of spirit-drinking countries.” We may -be permitted to quote the official table: - - Countries Spirits Beer Wine - Gallons Gallons Gallons - - United Kingdom 1.38 35.42 0.39 - France 2.51 7.48 34.73 - Germany 2.11 30.77 1.93 - Italy .34 .20 31.86 - Russia 1.29 1.13 - Belgium 1.42 56.59 1.28 - Sweden 2.13 8.83 .18 - United States (1903) 1.33 18.04 .48 - -Leaving out Italy, our country should really stand at the very foot -of the list, for the Russian figures, notoriously incorrect, are not -ordinarily accepted at their face value. In fact, this is the only -official publication in which they appear without some explanatory note -casting doubt upon their correctness. The true significance of this -official table, so far as our country is concerned, will only be fully -appreciated, if it be borne in mind that the _per capita_ consumption -of beer in Bavaria, where distilled liquors are rarely used, amounts to -about fifty-nine gallons and that alcoholism is practically unknown in -that kingdom. - -Commenting on the marvelously increased consumption of beer in this -country and the coincident falling off in the quantity of spirituous -liquors consumed, the New York “Sun” in a striking editorial (August -22, 1905) reaches the conclusion that “BEER DRIVES OUT HARD DRINK.” The -“Sun” also notes the fact that public drunkenness is comparatively rare -in all the cities of America to-day, among all classes of society. - -Mr. James Dalrymple, Glasgow’s commissioner of municipal railways who -was recently in this country, was constantly struck by the same fact as -contrasted with conditions abroad. Drunken workingmen are rarely seen -in any American community. - -Yet the time is not so far back when a different state of affairs -prevailed in this country. Hardly a generation since, whiskey was the -common drink and drunkenness the national vice. The change has come -through the substitution of malt liquors for ardent stimulants. As the -“Sun” says, beer drives out hard drink. Moderation and temperance are -supplanting excess in the use of liquors. The American people owe their -sobriety to the brewing industry. - -[Sidenote: THE PERFECTED PRODUCT] - -Up to 1845 brewing was confined exclusively to ale and porter, and the -manipulations of the brewer were of the simplest and most primitive -kind, as compared with present-day methods. What would be regarded as a -very small establishment now was then looked upon as a large brewery. -Concurrently with the growing popularity of lager-beer came the almost -countless mechanical improvements in both brewing and malting; the -utilization of the scientific researches of a host of such eminent men -as Pasteur, Hansen, Delbrueck, Van Laer, Morris, Joergensen and many -others; the practical application of the many thorough investigations -into, and the works on, fermentation, yeast-culture, bacteriology, -etc., and finally, the employment of artificial refrigeration; and it -may be said that brewing entered upon a new era. These improvements did -not, of course, reach the climax of their perfection at once; decades -elapsed before the new methods became an indispensable requirement of -success, and only in recent years have they overcome the conservatism -of ale brewers, with the happy result of adding to the desirable -qualities of ale some of the best characteristics of lager-beer; among -others, a low alcohol-percentage, effervescence without deposit and -brightness under low temperature. Since then the American brew-house -has become a model of perfection not equaled in Bavaria, the “land -of beer,” as has readily been admitted by distinguished foreign -authorities, such as, for example, Professors Delbrueck and Van Laer, -who not long ago visited a number of eastern and western breweries. In -this respect the brewers of America stand in the front rank of the most -progressive manufacturers, their establishments being equipped with -the modern and costly appliances which have taxed and rewarded human -ingenuity in this particular field for years past. - -In the table of production last quoted the reader will notice -remarkable increases in the years 1906 and 1907, amounting, -respectively, to 5,129,607 and 3,970,362 barrels, and a very -insignificant increase of 192,031 in 1908. In the succeeding fiscal -ending June 30th, 1909, there was a decrease exceeding in the number -of barrels the average increase of the two first-named years. The -greater part of this loss is doubtless due to the panic, but it is -quite certain that a considerable proportion of the decrease was caused -directly by prohibition in one form or another. It is difficult to -localize these losses with mathematical accuracy, but there can be no -doubt that brewing has suffered in all parts of the country where the -Anti-Saloon movement has succeeded. From present indications it is -safe to infer that in the South the industry will in the end suffer -more than anywhere else; it is equally certain, however, that, unless -the adverse movement should develop greater strength than appears -probable at the present time, brewing throughout the country will -rapidly recover from its recent set-back and resume its former rate of -development, acquiring new markets and new customers as has been the -case during the fifty years. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - HOW BEER IS BREWED - - -We now proceed to give a description of the various processes of -brewing, which we trust will not be deemed too elaborate, in view of -the special character of this work; and to this end we shall beg leave -to conduct the reader through the several departments of one of the -largest breweries of our country. - -It is to John Barleycorn, immortalized by Robert Burns and innumerable -other poets of less renown, that we must first turn our attention; -but we need not follow his career from the beginning, as poetically -described by the Scotch bard, for he makes his entry into the brewery -after he has already undergone a great part of his sufferings. - - “They laid him out upon the floor, - To work him further woe, - And still, as signs of life appeared, - They tossed him to and fro. - They wasted o’er a scorching flame - The marrow of his bones.” * * * - -The entire poem is undoubtedly familiar to every lover of -drinking-songs. In it the poet describes all the manipulations -incidental to the cultivation of barley, from the planting of the grain -to the reaping of it; and also all the numerous and manifold operations -to which the ripe cereal is subjected after it has left the farm and -passed into the hands of the maltster. - -The concluding process of malting, described in the quoted lines, has -done its work, when John Barleycorn turns up in this brewery to begin a -new series of ups and downs, calculated and designed to still further -purify him and render him fit for the climax of his fate. Malt, as -every one knows, is obtained by a four-fold treatment of the barley. -The grain must be steeped in order to cause germination and produce -diastase, the agent necessary for the conversion of starch into that -saccharine matter which forms the primary essence of beer; it must be -next couched and floored, when it continues to grow and germinate; -and, lastly, it must be subjected to kiln-drying by which germination -is terminated. When this malt, loaded upon ponderous wagons, reaches -the brewery, it is at once conveyed, by means of most ingenious -contrivances, into malt-scales and weighed. On its way to the enormous -bins, four in number, which serve as store-houses, it is subjected -to repeated processes of sifting, screening and blowing—the latter -part being effected by means of air passing through flues or pipes, -connected at certain intervals with the shutes through which the malt -passes. The storage-bins occupy nearly the whole of one wing of the -main building. They form one vast shaft, divided into four chambers, -running through several stories up to the top-floor, and leaving on -each floor just room enough for a narrow gallery or corridor. The malt -is raised to the tower and thence distributed into these bins, which -together hold about fifty-six thousand bushels of barley, and are so -constructed as to facilitate the utmost cleanliness in every nook and -corner of them. - -The first operation of the brewer, when beginning to brew, is to grind -the malt. John Barleycorn’s sufferings here begin where Burns makes -them end; - - “But a miller us’d him worst of all, - For he crushed him between two stones.” - -[Sidenote: CRUSHING THE MALT] - -The same powerful machinery which raises the malt into the -store-houses, is now again set in motion to convey the quantity of -malt requisite for each brew, from the store-rooms through a series of -shutes, shakers, and magnet-studded slides, to and from the scales into -the malt mill. On its devious course to this point the malt is shaken -upon sieves, rocked to and fro, and constantly accompanied by currents -of air, all of which is intended to separate all germs and dust from -the malt, and to leave the latter as free as possible from useless and -harmful matter. Shutes covered with powerful magnets, serve to attract -and hold nails, bits of iron or other similar metallic substances, -which may be in the malt. After being weighed—an operation which one -man can perform by simply depressing any one of four levers attached to -the scales and communicating with the store-bins—the malt is ground, or -rather crushed between metal rollers. In its crushed state, it is again -conveyed, in the same mechanical fashion to the top-floor, where it is -deposited in smaller bins, three in number, each holding 500 bushels. -The malt-scales, two in number, one to weigh the malt when it is -received, and the other to weigh the quantity needed for each brew, are -placed immediately below the store-bins. The double weighing operation -enables the brewer not only to calculate, at any time, the quantity of -malt consumed and still on hand, but also to determine, with accuracy -and without much labor, the exact quantities which he requires from day -to day. The latter is very important, because everything depends upon a -proper proportion of ingredients. - -Simple as all these operations may appear from our description, they -are, nevertheless, effected by most complicated and costly machinery, -in the construction of which human ingenuity was put to a severe -test. The principal object of these machines is not, as might be -supposed, the saving of labor, but rather the elimination of chance -and accident from this preliminary work of the brewer. These most -modern improvements preclude almost entirely the many chances of -failure to which a less perfect method of sifting malt will always -expose the operation of brewing. The presence of any metallic substance -or of an excess of germ or dust, will inevitably spoil the wort. -The methods spoken of here not only preclude this, but also tend to -insure uniformity of quality, and offer, besides, a certain degree of -immunity from the danger of explosion, which is ever present in any -establishment where the elimination and collection of the malt-dust is -effected in a less perfect way. As we have seen, the floors of the west -wing of the main building serve the purposes of weighing, sifting and -storing malt. On the upper floors of the other parts of this building -we find, in separate rooms, the smaller bins before described; tuns for -preliminary mashing; the cooling tank, and a number of colossal vats -containing water of varying degrees of temperature, heated by exhaust -steam. - -[Sidenote: MASHING AND SPARGING] - -Having crushed his malt, the brewer now proceeds to mashing, a most -important part of his art. The crushed malt is conveyed from the -smaller bins to a “Vormaischbütte,” that is to say, a mash-tun in -which the malt is thoroughly mixed with water, preparatory to its -transfer to the regular mash-tuns. Neither manual labor nor physical -efforts of any kind are required in thus conveying the malt to the -mash-tuns; everything moves by steam-power. The object of mashing, -_i.e._, the process of infusion or mixing the malt with water at a -proper temperature, is two-fold, viz. 1, to extract from the malt -the saccharine substance and dextrine which are contained therein; -and secondly, to convert into maltose and dextrine the residue of -unconverted starch. The three immense iron tubs, in which the malt is -mashed, are set in wooden frames, rising about four to five feet above -the flooring. Here, too, the magnificent plant of steam engines, of -which we shall speak later on, is brought into application; it sets in -motion the mashing apparatus within the tun, which is composed of a -number of raking contrivances fastened upon two huge arms, revolving -in opposite directions around central pivots, in such manner as to mix -every particle of the grain, as it drops from the “Vormaischbütte” on -the floor above. - -Now is the time to realize the importance of the perfect cleaning and -grinding of the malt, for the result of mashing depends in part upon -these two preliminary processes. If the malt be insufficiently crushed, -much of the extract will be lost, or rather, to be more precise, much -of the starch will resist infusion and thus remain bound up in the -grain, which latter then passes out of the tun with a considerable -portion of its starch adhering to it. If, on the other hand, the malt -be crushed too fine, or if it be insufficiently cleaned, retaining -large proportions of dust, a part of the wort will become pasty and -absorb much of the “goodness,” thus impairing the quality of the beer. - -Before the invention of the modern appliances before referred to, the -very best raw material frequently failed to yield the results which -the brewer was justified in expecting from it, and such failures, -the true causes of which were rarely understood, gave rise to -trade-superstitions which the modern brewer laughs at, conscious of his -superior knowledge. - -While the process of mashing is going on, the brew-master must be -constantly on the alert; he must watch the temperature of the water, -with which he mixes his malt; gauge the effect of the heat upon the -quantity and quality of his mash; and determine, at a glance, almost, -when to open the valves of the mash-tun, in order to draw off the wort -into the copper or boiling kettle below. As in everything connected -with brewing, science furnishes him a reliable guide in the shape of -a saccharometer, which indicates the proportion of sugar in the wort, -and other instruments with which to test temperature, etc. When the -opportune moment has arrived for drawing off the sugar-laden liquid, -the brewer opens valves or doors in the bottom of the mash-tuns, -through which the wort runs into pipes, and through a filtering -apparatus into the boilers on the floor below. While this is going on, -and before half of the wort is run off, we witness another operation -called sparging, by which the useful substance still remaining in the -malt is washed out. By the sparging machine a continuous shower of -hot water is evenly thrown on every part of the grain; it issues from -hollow arms, perforated on their reverse sides, and horizontally fixed -to an upright pin. As soon as the water begins to force its way out of -the holes, in opposite directions, these arms revolve automatically; -the raking appliances, meanwhile, continue to whirl around, constantly -stirring up the mash, thus enhancing the effect of the water and -accelerating the operation. Insufficient or ineffective sparging means -a considerable loss to the brewer. - -When sparging is completed, the brew-master changes the scene of his -activity; he descends to the floor immediately below the one where -his mash-tuns are placed. These two floors are closely connected with -each other; in fact, through large openings in the ceiling, which -openings are surrounded by substantial guard rails, we gain an almost -unobstructed view of both rooms at one and the same time; and even if -we knew nothing at all of brewing, the sight of so many pipes, tubes, -funnels and shafts connecting the upper floor with the lower, would -convince us that the closest relation exists between the two rooms. -On this lower floor our attention is at once attracted by three huge -copper kettles, every part of which, as well as the many pipes which we -see here, at once impresses us with the truth of the saying, that when -a brewer is doing nothing, he cleans and polishes his utensils. Indeed, -the pride which every journeyman brewer takes in the cleanliness of -the establishment is made manifest at every step we take; but here, -in the kettle-room, where every object far and near is faithfully -reflected, as if in a mirror, upon the resplendent sides of the -brew-kettles, an extra effort seems to have been made to outshine every -other department. - -The liquid which now runs from the mash-tun into the boiling-copper -contains all the ingredients which constitute what we may call the -body of the beer; it is the extract of a highly nutritious grain, -gained in such a way as to justify the designation of liquid bread, -which an eminent chemist has assigned to malt liquors. But all the -nourishing qualities of the grain have not been extracted; a very large -proportion, comparatively speaking, remain in that part of it for which -the brewer has no further use. In the brewery under description these -grains are conveyed through large pipes from the mash-tuns to the -ground floor, or, rather, to an arch-way where wagons may be brought -to receive them. They are used as food for cattle and have proved to -be the best nutriment for milch-cows. According to the exhaustive -analysis made by the Agricultural Experiment Station of this State, -and many other investigations, brewers’ grains, even when no longer -perfectly fresh, are usually nourishing and, when fed to milch-cows, -tend to increase the quantity and enhance the quality of the milk. -It is estimated that no less than two-thirds of the bulk of brewers’ -grains, as they issue from the mash-tun, consist of water, and this -moisture not only militates against the transportation of the grain -to rural points, but also accelerates decomposition—two reasons which -have prevented a more general utilization of the grains by dairymen. A -number of grains-drying machines have been invented, and we learn of -others in course of construction, by which the grains may be profitably -dried and preserved. - -[Sidenote: BOILING THE WORT] - -The boiling of the wort in these three huge coppers is another one of -the essential phases of brewing. The heat required for the boiling is -furnished by boilers which send a continuous current of steam through -the coils fixed in the copper. These coppers have covers with small -sliding doors, which, during the process of boiling, are rarely opened -except to enable the brew-master to make his tests. Were it not for -these covers, the boiler-room would be enveloped in an impenetrable -cloud of steam, which would greatly hamper all manipulations. As it is, -the steam finds an outlet through a large pipe or flue fixed on top -of the copper. It is at this stage that the hop is added to the wort, -but not until after the latter has boiled a sufficient time. Usually, -the boiling requires four hours; at the expiration of the third hour, -or still later, perhaps, the brewer will empty the contents of several -large sacks full of aromatic hops into the copper, thus adding the -bitter principle to the saccharine. The proper treatment of the hops -at and during this stage always has been a matter concerning which few -brewers shared the same opinion; but of late scientific investigations -have removed many prejudices which arose from a misconception of -the nature, ingredients and functions of the plant. At present, the -average brewer fully understands that he can extract the essence of -the hops without excessive boiling. The object of the boiling is: 1. -To concentrate the wort; 2. To extract the essence of the hop; 3. To -coagulate the unchanged albuminous substances and cause them to settle, -together with the unconverted starch which, if allowed to remain -intact, would materially militate against the preservation of the -beer. But this does not do justice to the important function of hops; -at least it is to be feared that, to the average reader, it will not -convey a clear idea of the action of this tender plant upon the wort. -Without it, beer would be nothing more than fermented barley-juice, -which, as we have seen, was known to the most ancient nations. Without -it, beer could not be preserved for any length of time, and both -in appearance and flavor would be greatly inferior to the drink of -to-day. Hence, hops not only impart to beers their pleasantly bitter -and aromatic flavor, but they also assist in clarification and produce -the preservative qualities of the liquid. The two principal substances -which the hop-cone yields when boiled, are lupulin and tannin, and it -must be the brewer’s aim to extract these in just that proportion which -the condition and quality of his wort require. Injudicious handling of -the hops may result in an excess of tannin and a deficiency of lupulin, -and may otherwise work injury to the finished product. The diminutive -sparkling grains of the hop-flower, called lupulin, are closely wrapped -up in the center of the hop-cone, and should be laid bare before the -plant is placed in the copper. To this end most brewers break up the -hops, and the writer was shown a most ingenious and yet exceedingly -simple machine which performs this operation in a highly satisfactory -manner. - -Hops, as delivered at the brewery, are packed in large bales, each -weighing 180 pounds; the quantities required for immediate use are -taken out of these bales, broken on the machine above referred to, and -then placed loosely in large canvass bags, provided with hoop-like -handles. As a matter of course, these quantities are all carefully -weighed before being dumped into the copper. Scientific observation and -practical experience have taught the brewer not to boil the hop too -long. Formerly the plant was boiled “all to pieces,” the object being -to expedite the precipitation of the albuminous wort by means of the -extracted tannin. At present, the boiling time is reduced to a minimum, -and yet, by reason of the opening of the hop-cone, the effects and -essential functions of the hop are not in any manner impaired. - -In the purchase of hops, the brewer must use good judgment and great -care so as to secure an article rich in lupulin, fully mature, not too -old, cleanly picked and properly dried. If he obtains such hops, he may -still have room for complaint on account of the lack of that flavor -which is the result of long-continued cultivation and the natural -advantages of a favorable soil. The latter causes have made Bohemian -hops famous all over the world. Any brewer who strives to produce the -very highest grade of beer will always use a certain proportion of -these extra-aromatic hops in conjunction with the domestic product. For -all practical purposes, however, American hops are as good as, if not -better than, the average foreign article, with the exception of a few -varieties, the production of which is also confined to a rather narrow -territory. - -[Sidenote: COOLING THE BREW] - -When the boiling is completed, the brewer again descends to a still -lower floor, where we see, besides many engines, pumps and other -gear, a large black rectangular tank which is placed directly under, -and connected with the boiling-coppers. This is technically called a -hop-retainer or hop-back; the former term undoubtedly more intelligible -than the latter, and certainly more appropriate because the function -of this tank is to check or retain the hops, while the hopped wort, -flowing through open valves in the bottom of the coppers, is being -rapidly pumped back to the top floor, where an expansive iron -receptacle called the cooling-tank, stands ready to receive it. Poor -John Barleycorn! In different conditions he has now made this same -trip up and down for the fourth time, and yet the end of his journey -is still far off. The contrivance which effects the retention of the -hops consists of a perforated false bottom within the hop-back, or, in -other words, of a sieve equally as large as the iron tank into which it -is fitted, and so fixed as to leave between it and the real bottom of -the vessel a sufficient space for the reception of the wort. At this -stage, the head-brewer thinks of but two things, namely, to send his -wort to the cooling-tank as rapidly as possible and to have it reach -its destination clear and brilliant. For the latter purpose he allows -the wort to settle in the hop-back for about twenty minutes; this done, -he adjusts the pumps, sets them in motion, and then ascends to the top -floor to watch the steaming liquid, as it issues from the pipe and, -with a sound between a hiss and a roar, rushes into the tank. If we -wish to form an idea of the shape and dimensions of this cooling-tank, -we must do it now, for in a few moments, as the hot liquid accumulates, -a dense cloud of steam, fraught with the enlivening aroma of the hops, -begins to fill the immense room, rendering everything indistinct, -except when a particularly strong gust of wind rushes through the wide -openings in the lattice-work of the windows and for a moment lifts -the vaporous veil. The shape of this vessel is that of a gigantic -rectangular pan; its depth is three feet; its lateral dimensions -are 30 x 42 feet; its capacity equals that of two of the three -boiling-coppers, each one of which holds three hundred and seventy-five -barrels. - -Although he has the most perfect refrigerating apparatus at his -command, our brew-master now evinces considerable anxiety; he is pretty -sure of the usual result of his operations; but he knows “there’s -many a slip between the cup and the lip,” or, rather, between the -cooling-tank and the fermenting tun; and right here appears to be the -only loophole which human ingenuity left to chance. His object is to -reduce the temperature of the liquid and render the wort properly -amenable, in the desired measure, to the action of the yeast which -he will presently add to it, and thus place it in a fair way for the -beginning of fermentation. But unless this is done rapidly, the wort -may turn sour, and besides, many believe that other dangers usually -accompany a protracted exposure of the liquid to the open air. In many -breweries, particularly those situated on depressed ground, or hedged -in by other high buildings, artificial means are employed to accelerate -this first stage of the cooling process. - -Cooling is one of the most interesting, as it is one of the most -important, phases of brewing. The manner in which it is accomplished -in model breweries of to-day, impresses us with the greatness of -science and its illimitable resources when pressed into service of a -progressive industry. Formerly, the successful brewer of lager-beer -depended very much upon the climate, the supply of ice and the chances -of securing what the Germans style “Felsenkeller,” rock cellars; -that is, deep caverns hewn into the rocks. The refrigerators of -to-day completely emancipate the brewer from the thraldom of these -contingencies; he can now brew almost anywhere and everywhere, even in -Southern climates. Mild winters and consequent scarcity of ice have no -terrors for him; and if it were not for his second nature to utilize -every natural advantage offered him, he might get along without any -cellars, certainly without “Felsenkeller.” From the cooling-tank the -wort is conveyed through pipes into a pan, whence it trickles over two -refrigerators. These two refrigerators are on separate floors, one -above the other; the one over which the wort passes first is supplied -with water from an artesian well; the other derives its cooling -capacity from a refrigerating plant, of which we shall presently speak -at some length. Having now reached the temperature most suitable for -the beginning of fermentation, the wort passes directly into the -fermenting tuns. - -[Sidenote: FERMENTATION] - -Fermentation, artificially induced by the admixture of yeast, at the -rate of about one pound per barrel, sets in at once and gradually -converts the saccharine principle into alcohol and carbonic acid gas, -thus imparting to beer that quality which places malt liquors in the -category of intoxicating beverages. - -While fermentation continues, the same vigilance which prevails in -every part of the brewery, must be constantly exercised. The conversion -of sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid gas should be gradual, not -sudden; hence, when the fermenting process becomes too rapid, either by -reason of defective yeast or on account of the unsuitable temperature, -it must be restrained by means of attemperators, that is, coils which -are placed in the fermenting-tun and connected with the refrigerating -plant. - -As in all other operations thus far described, so here, too, the -prolific genius of our age of inventions has placed at the command of -the brewer machineries with which he can regulate the temperature of -these oceans of turbulent, foaming liquids, either by a light pressure -of his hand, by the turning of a small wheel, by pressing upon a knob, -or by such other equally simple manipulation. In this fermenting -room, as well as in the cellars, into which we shall pass presently, -everything assumes Titanic proportions, and the human beings who move -about these places appear like pigmies. When we see fermenting-tuns -holding from three hundred to four hundred barrels, and settling tuns -of the size of an ordinary house, extending through two stories, and -holding seven hundred barrels or twenty-one thousand seven hundred -gallons of beer; and when we consider that these monster casks, filled -with John Barleycorn’s blood, cover miles upon miles of cellar-room, we -begin to realize and appreciate the power of the engines which are at -work in this brewery. - -As fermentation progresses, workmen are constantly in attendance to -watch the process. On ladders, almost three times the size of their own -bodies, they climb to the top of the tuns to skim the beer with huge -ladles, testing at the same time, by taste and touch, the condition -of the liquid mass, in order to determine when to draw it off to the -resting-tuns. - -The transfer of the beer from the fermentation vats to the resting-tuns -and from these to the storage casks is accomplished by hydraulic and -air pressure, and in such a way as to require no other labor but that -of opening or closing valves or depressing levers. As we descend into -the cellars, three stories under the ground, the temperature becomes -more and more stinging, the walls and ceiling are covered with ice -to the depth of from three to five inches, and every vat and cask is -thickly encrusted with frost. In forming an idea of the capacity of -these cellars, we cannot simply depend upon the number of square feet -of ground occupied by them, because both vats and casks rise to a -height almost equal to that of the cellars, and they vary in capacity -from fifty to five hundred barrels. The beer contained in them would -float a fleet, since their aggregate minimum capacity amounts to -125,000 barrels. - -[Sidenote: FINAL OPERATIONS] - -The last operations to which the beer is subjected are those of -cleansing, fining and krausening. The beer passes from the settling -vats to the storage casks, in which it remains from three to four -months, when, after another winding journey through miles of pipes, it -emerges bright and clear and brilliant, only to be racked, that is to -say, filled into kegs which go to the retailers. - -The same continuity of operations which we have witnessed on the floors -above ground, is also observed in the three tiers of cellars, and the -relation between the latter is almost as close as that between the -former. We have already indicated the character of the connection which -exists between the different kinds of tuns, vats and casks into which -the beer is filled at different stages after the brew is completed. We -have seen that fermentation takes place in open vats, and is regulated -by attemperators, fed by the refrigerating plant and by means of -powerful pumps. Formerly, another means of restraining fermentation, -which was applied manually, was resorted to; it consisted of conical -cans, called swimmers, which the brewer filled with ice and placed -in the fermenting liquid, where they floated about and depressed the -temperature. - -When the desired results of fermentation are secured, then, and not -until then, is the wort transformed into beer but before it becomes fit -for consumption, it must rest for a considerable length of time, to be -then transferred to the storage casks, where the processes of fining -and krausening take place. For the former process, chips or shavings -are used, usually those gained from the beech-tree, by which the muddy -particles, resulting from fermentation and still remaining in the -beer, are attracted and held, leaving the bulk of the liquid clear and -translucent. While this is going on, large quantities of carbonic-acid -gas continually escape from the lager-casks, and, ultimately, in order -to re-enliven the liquid, a second fermentation must be produced by -adding one-fifth of a new beer to four-fifths of the old. This is -done by means of pipes which convey the new beer through two tiers of -cellars to the lager-casks. - -Mashed, sparged, boiled, cooled, doubly fermented, clarified and -thoroughly aged, the beer is now ready for racking. This is done by -several gangs of men at the same time. The quantity to be racked and -the capacity of the packages to be filled being known, the foreman is -enabled to determine how many kegs must be held in readiness. Each -“racker” has a given number of kegs before him. Above a wide board, -which runs along the wall, there is a long row of faucets through -which the beer, drawn from the lager-casks, flows into a detachable -hose and thence into the kegs. When one keg is full, the hose is -quickly inserted into another, and, while this is being filled up, -the first is being closed up with a wooden bung tightly hammered into -the bung-hole. In the lower end of the pipes, to which the faucets -are attached, glass tubes are inserted, which enable the “racker” to -discover immediately the slightest change in the color or clearness of -the beer. When such a change occurs, the stream of beer must be turned -off at once, because the presence of muddy particles indicates that the -sediment in the lager-cask has been reached and is being stirred up. - -The kegs are now ready for delivery to the retailer, and pass out of -the proper domain of the brewer, until they are returned empty and -are again conveyed to the wash-house, or, perhaps, if their condition -should require it, to the pitching-yard or to the cooper-shop—all of -which places we shall presently visit on our tour of inspection. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - WATER, ICE, STEAM, AND LIGHT - - -Having witnessed the process of brewing, from the grinding of the malt -to the racking of the beer, we now turn our attention to the extensive -and complicated plant which furnishes this brewery with water, ice, -steam and light. The first inquiry addressed to the brew-master -concerning the water brings on a highly interesting lecture on the -importance of this element in brewing, and the difficulty of obtaining -it in the state best suited for our purpose. True, the water which -gushes from the gneiss-rocks of Manhattan Island, as well as that which -is conveyed to us from afar through the aqueduct, is very good and -wholesome; but it will not bear a comparison with the water that the -Munich brewer receives from the river Isar, nor that which, ever since -the 13th century, has rendered famous the ales of Burton-on-Trent. -The reputation of the Munich beer is quite as old as that of this -English ale, and in both instances popular superstition attributed the -excellent qualities of these beers to secret recipes, possessed only -by the monks who operated the breweries. The real and only secret, -however, was the exceptionally favorable quality of the water. Our -water is not the worst by any means; quite the contrary, it is, as -we have said, good and suitable enough for brewing; but not a single -experienced brewer in our land would dare to deny that if we had Isar -water, our beers would be better than those of Munich; in fact, even -with this difference in the water operating against us, much American -beer is pronounced by connoisseurs to be superior to the average Munich -beer. - -In an establishment of the size of the brewery we are describing, water -plays an important part, not only as a component of beer, but also as -an essential agent of cleanliness, motive-power and temperature. For -all these purposes the ordinary supply of water does not suffice. To -cover the deficiency, this brewery has two sources from which copious -supplies are drawn. The one is an artesian well, which yields, daily, -50,000 gallons of water; the other, a pumping station on the East -River which, during the summer months, or whenever needed, supplies -daily 900,000 gallons of salt water, used for the condensers of the -refrigerating machine. The artesian well is seven hundred feet deep, -drilled through solid rock, and constructed in the best manner; it -is worked by a powerful duplex pump. The enormous quantities of -water flowing into the brewery, and used for purposes other than -brewing proper, supply eight steam boilers, furnishing steam for -fourteen engines of twelve hundred horse-power; a refrigerating plant, -consisting of three machines, of an aggregate ice-melting capacity of -330 tons; the different stables, and the wash-houses, where barrels, -chips, wagons, etc., are cleaned. - -In describing the different floors on which the processes of mashing, -boiling and cooling are carried on, we noticed the presence of many -large wooden vats full of water. The water in these vats, used -principally for mashing and boiling, receives a preliminary heating by -means of exhaust-steam, which proceeds from the brewery engines and -would be wasted, unless utilized in the manner indicated. An apparatus, -specially designed for this purpose, conducts the exhaust-steam into -coils fixed in the vats; in this manner the temperature of the water -is raised and less heat is required to bring it to the boiling-point. -Ordinarily, these vats are entirely covered with thickly padded -canvas, to the end that the heat may be more effectually retained. -When we consider that the annual consumption of fuel in this brewery -amounts to six thousand tons of coal, we can readily understand that -a waste of heat, in whatever form, must, in the long run, result in a -very considerable pecuniary loss. In its downward course, from floor -to floor, the water used for the purposes before mentioned, flows -through pipes which empty into the tubs and boilers, and are supplied, -at suitable points, with instruments for gauging quantities and -determining temperature. By means of powerful steam-pumps, the water -is pumped from the Croton main into the vats, where it is heated as -described. The vats on the floor next to the ground-floor furnish warm -water for cleaning the kegs. Thus, the water, too, passes through a -series of connected pipes, vats, tubes and tuns, up and down the entire -height of the building, serving a different purpose at every stage and -forming another circle within a circle. - -[Sidenote: REFRIGERATION] - -The refrigerating plant rests upon a massive foundation; it has three -floors, including the ground floor, and covers twelve thousand five -hundred square feet of the brewery premises. The system of cooling -rests upon the principles first applied to this purpose, in 1849, by -Gorrie, but has been improved upon during the successive stages of -its development to an extent far exceeding the progress of any other -scientific discovery. As applied in this brewery, the system performs -its functions by means of the _direct_ expansion of ammonia in iron -pipes, placed under the ceilings and on the walls of the cellars; a -far more effective and economical method than the system by which -the brine, after being cooled in large tanks, is forced through the -cooling pipes by means of steam pumps. The plant consists of four -De La Vergne machines, each of an ice-melting capacity of 310 tons; -these cool about forty cellars, or an aggregate space of 1,750,000 -cubic feet, and furnish, in addition to this, all the ice-cold water -required for the attemperators in the fermenting tuns, and for the -coolers over which the wort passes when it leaves the cooling-tank, as -explained. To describe the intricate process of cooling is a difficult -task, save on the assumption that the reader fully understands the -principles upon which the system is based. We must take it for granted -that the reader knows that the rapid expansion of a compressed gas, -as well as the volatilization of some liquids, is invariably followed -by a lowering of the temperature, and that by a proper utilization of -this change of temperature intense cold, to almost any degree below -the freezing point, may be produced at will. The machines invented -for this purpose vary considerably, both in effectiveness and cost, -and in almost every country a different system is in vogue. The best -American machines appear to be compounds of all the virtues and -advantages of the most approved systems now in use; and it is claimed -that the De La Vergne refrigerator yields to none in any respect. -The principal parts of this apparatus are the boilers, expansion -cocks, refrigerating coils, compressors, separating tank and ammonia -condensers. The boilers are placed on the ground-floor, the machines -on the next, and the condensers on the top-floor. Like every other -material or agent we have thus far described, the ammonia, too, passes -through a number of variously connected circuits, down into tiers upon -tiers of cellars, and up again through the three floors above ground, -only to recommence the same journey and repeat it again and again -for the self-same purpose. The ammonia first goes in a liquid state -into the cellar, where it is distributed by means of expansion cocks -into the refrigerating coils; thence the three machines draw it up -in a gaseous state and compress it. From the compressors, it passes -into a separating tank, and here the oil is eliminated and sent to -the oil-cooler, while the ammonia, still in a gaseous state, ascends -to the ammonia condensers on the top-floor of the building. By the -use of salt water on the outside of these condensers, the ammonia is -reliquified, and in this liquid state again descends to the cellars, -as before described. Still another circle within a greater circle! A -recapitulation of the functions of this refrigerating plant may not -be out of place. It cools 1,750,000 cubic feet of space in cellars; -supplies ice-cold water for the attemperators in fermenting tuns and -reduces the temperature of the wort, as it passes over the cooling -pipes, to 40° Fahrenheit. During the summer months the beer to be -cooled, in the latter manner, amounts on an average to two thousand -barrels, daily—the maximum daily brew being twenty-seven hundred -barrels.[5] - - [5] Multiplied by four, these figures give _present_ output. - -[Sidenote: THE STEAM PLANT] - -The steam required in this brewery for all the operations already -described, and others still to be spoken of, is generated by eight -colossal boilers, each five and a half feet in diameter, and containing -fifty-six four-inch tubes. They are of the horizontal return tubular -type, fitted with patent furnaces and water arches, and rated at -130 horse-power, each. This boiler plant is really of double the -capacity needed, and, hence, only one-half of the number of boilers -is alternately in use, the other half being provided as a reserve -in case of emergencies. The steam generated in these boilers drives -fourteen engines. Of these, one is used in the machine shop; three -serve the purposes of the refrigerating plant; two are used for the -electric-light plant; three, varying from 100 to 165 horse-power, -set in motion the mashing apparatus, the malt-mill, malt elevators, -keg-washing machines, rotary pumps in cellar, two Otis belt elevators -and four keg elevators. Two of the latter are used for lowering empty -kegs into the cellar, and the other two for raising filled kegs. In -addition to these, there are four more engines, one each for driving a -feed-grinder and fodder-cutter in the stables, a set of revolving and -suspended fans in the office, the cask-rollers in the pitch-yard and -the machine for washing chips. - -All these steam motors, as well as the refrigerating machines, are -connected with that system of steam condensation to which we referred -in describing the partial heating of brew-water by means of exhaust -steam. Previous to condensation the exhaust-steam passes from the -engine through an apparatus, called grease extractor, which eliminates -the oil; it is then conveyed to a Gannon surface condenser and thence -returned to the boilers. In this process of condensation a vacuum -of from twenty-five to twenty-six inches is produced by means of -an air-pump. The immense quantity of salt water used daily for the -condensers of ammonia is so profitably utilized in this manner, that -condensation is effected without an extra supply of water. - -[Sidenote: COOPERAGE] - -Cooperage is no longer a handicraft in America; the inventive genius -of our people, to which we owe the greater part of the progress -that has placed us at the head of civilized nations in point of -machine-building, has virtually wiped out the cooper’s handicraft, -and given us, in its stead, a half-dozen enormous manufacturing -establishments, in which nearly all the barrels required by brewers -and distillers are made by machine. There was a time when nearly -every brewer had at least a smattering of the cooper’s art, and when -the cellar men, employed in breweries, had to produce satisfactory -evidence of having passed through the regular course of training -prescribed for apprentices and journeymen by the ancient and honorable -guild of coopers. Although this is now all changed, yet in so large -an establishment as the one we are describing, the employment of a -considerable force of coopers is indispensable. The large casks and -vats, ranging in capacity from 50 to 800 barrels, which fill the -cellars of the brewery, number about 1,500, and there are about 100,000 -packages—_i.e._, barrels of thirty-one gallons, and half, quarter and -sixth barrels—in constant use; and a considerable reserve stored away -for emergencies. The coopers keep an accurate account of these packages -and vessels, examine them from time to time, and make such repairs as -their condition may require. - -The pitching of barrels, which serves the two-fold purpose of -facilitating the process of cleaning and preventing the beer from -acquiring a smell of the wood, is performed periodically, with such -methodical regularity that not a single package can escape this fiery -ordeal. The pitching yard, enclosed by a wall, is the scene of this -part of the cooper’s task; here, too, manual labor forms only an -adjunct to steam power. Four large cask-rollers, and many smaller ones, -all driven by a steam engine of ten-horse power, a pitch oven and a -pitch cauldron take the place of the single implements with which, in -former days, the cooper used to perform this work. After the liquid -pitch has been poured into the casks, the latter are placed upon the -moving rollers and continually rotated, by which process the pitch is -evenly spread over the inner surface of the barrels and kegs. - -The manufacture of brewers’ pitch yields a considerable income to an -important industry, and is of no small benefit to the producers of -the raw material. A number of substitutes for pitch have been offered -in the market, and some of them, especially one made of the residuary -substances obtained in the process of refining petroleum, possess -many qualities lacking in pitch; but here the conservative spirit of -the brewers prevails against innovation, for none of the substances -have that peculiar, although exceedingly faint, flavor for which the -ordinary pitch is so highly prized by both the brewer and the drinker. - -All kegs are washed as soon as they return from the retailer, and the -importance which the brewer attaches to this part of his business may -be inferred from the fact that no less than one hundred barrel-washing -machines have been invented—a sure sign of pressing demand. The -machines used for this purpose are of the very latest pattern, and -perform the work of washing and scrubbing with a thoroughness that -leaves nothing to be desired. The kegs are washed several times, and -always with hot water, supplied, as we have already stated, from one of -the vats on the floor above. They are washed both inside and outside. -The operation is entirely automatic. Although the cleaning of the -outside of the barrels is not essential, great care is, nevertheless, -bestowed upon this work, which is performed by scrubbing-machines. The -latter seem to give much satisfaction, and are, therefore, in general -use in all large breweries. - -It is one of the characteristics of the American brewers to disregard -expense, when the quality of their product is at stake, and can be -enhanced by the use of modern appliances; in that case they give no -thought to anything else, but when no such considerations prevail, -they show a remarkably conservative spirit, and prefer to adhere to -old methods, particularly when the use of modern inventions would -necessitate a reduction of the number of workmen. Cleanliness being -a principal condition of the keeping quality of the beer, the brewer -devotes to it all the modern appliances he can secure. The wash-room, -situated on the ground floor of the main building, has a cemented floor -and is bordered with open gutters, which empty into the sewers. The men -employed in it wear heavy boots, impervious to water, but are otherwise -clad in the usual dress of the “Brauburschen.” In the matter of dress, -by the way, the spirit of our age has wrought many innovations; -excepting the blue blouse, every article of dress that used to -distinguish the brewer’s guild from other handicrafts, has disappeared. - -Although but indirectly connected with the cooperage, the treatment -of chips or shavings may as well be disposed of under this heading. -As we have seen, beech shavings are used for the clarification of the -beer while in storage casks, where a second fermentation takes place. -Before being so used, the chips undergo a thorough process of boiling -and washing, which is accomplished by steam-driven machines of very -modern origin. Under favorable circumstances the chips serve this -purpose more than once; but, when this is the case, they must again be -subjected to boiling and cleaning. In this brewery, beech chips are -used exclusively. The stock on hand at the time of our visit was in -keeping with the enormous quantities of raw material which filled the -store-rooms. - -[Sidenote: A GREAT INDUSTRY] - -In concluding this sketch of a modern brewery, a few words must be -said concerning the position which the brewing industry occupies as -one of the great wealth-producing factors of our nation, and the -extent to which it contributes to the maintenance of other industries. -It is impossible, of course, to search out all those branches of -business which directly or indirectly depend upon brewing, but even an -incomplete statement will serve to dispel many errors which have been -fostered by the enemies of our product. We cannot even approximately -estimate the amount of money paid annually by the brewers of this -country to the masons, machine builders, pump manufacturers, coopers, -lumber dealers, and the manufacturers of the many instruments and -utensils used in brewing; nor can we fully determine the advantages -which agriculture derives from our industry. Much less can we state, -with any degree of accuracy, the help which other industries receive -from the trade generally. But there are a few items which we can -estimate roughly, at least. Thus, from statistical exhibits, officially -published, it appears, that the brewers of this country pay, annually, -for agricultural products about $180,000,000. The capital invested -in breweries, of which 80 per cent. represents cost of buildings and -machineries, is estimated at $800,000,000. These figures alone suffice -to demonstrate the economic short-sightedness of those persons who -advocate the annihilation of the brewing industry. - -The extent to which brewers contributed towards the payment of the -national debt, caused by the war of the rebellion, is eloquently -expressed by the annual reports of the Internal Revenue Department. -Since 1863 and up to 1908, no less than one thousand one hundred and -seventy-eight million dollars have been paid into the United States -Treasury by the brewers of this country. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - AMERICAN HOP CULTURE. - - -American hop-culture has a great future, in spite of the fact that -it is confined to but few States, as hops will not grow profitably -everywhere. - -The climate forbids the profitable growth of hops in all sections of -the United States south of the latitude of New York City, Cincinnati, -and St. Louis. In the Southern climate the hops run too much to vine, -and the fruit fails of its full development. The hop is a Northern -plant, and as far north as Manitoba grows wild and in great profusion. -On the other hand, not every soil will produce the hop in perfection. - -The rich prairie lands of Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and Minnesota are -not favorable to hops, although the climate is propitious. These -soils lack something that is essential to the full development of the -lupulin. The sections where both soil and climate favor the cultivation -of hops are the central and northern counties of New York; here we have -a cool climate and a rich soil, full of all the elements that go to -make fine hops; Washington and Oregon, with a cool climate, and a soil -so deep and rich and virginal that the yield of hops is exceptionally -good, both in quantity and quality; and, lastly, California, where the -hops are raised mostly in the valleys of the Sacramento and Russian -rivers. - -Forty years ago Wisconsin raised a crop of about 10,000 bales of hops, -but the hop-louse suddenly cut off the crop, and now not more than -2,000 bales are raised annually in that State. A few hops are raised -each year in the New England States, where the soil is generally too -poor to make the yield profitable, and a few in Michigan. - -A hop-yard is planted by means of cuttings or “sets,” taken from the -roots of old vines, and set in the ground about seven feet apart each -way, so that there are about 750 hills of hops to an acre. In New York -State the vines from these “sets” produce nothing in the first year of -growth, being allowed to spread on the ground; about half a crop in the -second year, and a full crop in the third year. In California, Oregon -and Washington the “sets” are furnished with poles the first year, and -produce that year about half a crop, and a full crop the second year. -In New York a fair average crop is about one pound of cured hops to -the hill, or 750 pounds to the acre; while on the Pacific coast two or -three, and, not infrequently, four times that weight is harvested. The -hop-yards are generally equipped with poles about fifteen feet high, -upon which the vines grow spirally upward; sometimes, however, the -hop-vines are trained upon wires, stretched horizontally between stout -posts over the rows of hills, with smaller wires or strings leading up -to the horizontal wires from each hill. - -Some hop-yards are furnished with a single pole to a hill, the poles -being from twelve to eighteen feet high, with strings running obliquely -upward from the middle of one pole to the top of its neighbor. The -prettiest hop-yard—that is the one most beautiful at the time of -harvest—is the “tent-yard,” where a straight pole, twenty feet high, is -set in the center of six or seven hills, into which stakes about five -feet high, are placed, and provided with strings leading to the top of -the tall central pole, thus forming a regular tent. These tent-yards -closely resemble a military camp, a fact which gave rise to the -designation, “Camps of King Gambrinus.” - -In California, in former years, the hops were largely picked by -Chinamen, but since the labor movement, which culminated in the -exclusion of Chinese immigration, has brought the employment of such -labor into disfavor, the majority of planters hire other help, and -Chinamen are now but rarely seen in the hop-yards. - -In Washington, and to some extent also in Oregon, the hops are -mostly picked by Indians from British Columbia. They cross Puget -Sound in their canoes, bringing all their women and children and all -their household goods along, and go into camp on the borders of the -hop-yards, about the 1st of September of every year. They board and -lodge themselves, and always work “by the piece,” that is to say, they -get a fixed compensation for every box of hops picked by them. All the -Indians have to do, is to pick the hops from the vine, and they “pick -for all they are worth,” most literally; for every cent they earn, for -the whole year in most cases, is earned in the three or four weeks of -the hop-harvest. Every squaw and papoose picks, from early morning -until night, into baskets or shawls, which are emptied into the box and -help to swell the family’s income for the year. Before the introduction -of hops into Washington, about twenty-five years ago, these Indians -did not earn a dollar in money in a year, but now, at the close of the -hop-harvest, a single Indian family composed of man, wife, and usually -several children, will carry home with them one hundred dollars in -cash. The difference to that poor family, in comfort and civilization, -can easily be understood. - -[Sidenote: HOP-PICKING IN NEW YORK] - -We now come to the hop-harvest in the State of New York, and here it -is in its glory. The great counties of Otsego, Schoharie, Montgomery, -Herkimer, Oneida, Madison, Onondaga, and Ontario lie along, and mostly -a little south of the Erie Canal and the New York Central Railroad, -between Albany and Rochester, a belt two hundred miles long and fifty -miles wide. Franklin and Lewis counties, along the Canadian frontier of -New York, have also a considerable hop interest, but for our present -purpose we shall confine ourselves to the region situated in the belt -we have mentioned, bounded by Albany on the East and Rochester on the -West, and dotted, along its whole length of two hundred miles, with -the cities of Albany, Schenectady, Amsterdam, Utica, Rome, Syracuse, -Auburn and Rochester. Towns and villages of from one to two and three -thousand inhabitants, many of them manufacturing towns, and all of them -full of women and children willing to work and eager to rusticate for a -time, are scattered all over the hop-belt; and from this long line of -populous cities, and these thickly settled towns and villages, come the -pickers for the hop-harvest. On or about the first day of September, -they come with a rush, and usually find a demand equal to the supply. -For weeks the hop-grower’s good wife has been preparing for them; beds, -rough, but comfortable and clean, are set up in every building on the -farm—in the house for the women and children, and in the out-buildings -(sometimes put up for the purpose), for the men and boys. Bread is -baked by the barrel; “doughnuts” are fried by the bushel. The farmer -has already engaged his pickers in the neighboring cities or villages, -and, on the appointed day, in they come, some by wagons, sent out -the day before to the city, often twenty miles away, some by special -railroad trains, chartered for the purpose, and some on foot. Whole -families are in the crowd, father, mother and all the children, from -the active boy or girl of fifteen years, who can pick two or three -boxes, and earn a dollar a day, down to the baby whom the mother takes -out into the field and watches while she picks her box, and earns its -clothing for the coming winter. - -These families are frequently those of hard-working mechanics in the -cities, who are glad to give their wives and children an outing in the -fresh air for three or four weeks, and find them all the richer and -happier by reason of the escape from the stony and dirty streets of -their urban home. It is a picnic for the children, and their pranks, -when they first arrive, are a sore trial to the steady farmer and his -wife. But after the first day’s work (from six in the morning until -twelve at noon, and from 12:30 P.M. until six at night) is over, -they are well sobered down for bed, and their surplus energies are -thereafter turned into the channel that leads to the hop-box in the -morning and to bed at night. Many a poor factory girl finds in the -hop-fields the only fresh country air she breathes in the whole year; -and while she is laying in the year’s stock of health, her nimble -fingers are bringing to her more money than the work in the stifling -mill. - -To the hop-grower, the harvest, by reason of high prices for hops, is -sometimes very profitable. Sometimes, by reason of low prices, it is -very unsatisfactory. But to the poor families in the surrounding towns -and villages it is always a blessing; for, no matter whether the price -of hops be high or low, the compensation for picking is always the -same. Let us see how it foots up. The hop-crop of the United States -amounts to about 200,000 bales, of 180 pounds each. It takes fifteen -boxes for a bale, and for each box the picker is paid about fifty cents -cash, or its equivalent in cash and board. Fifteen boxes at fifty cents -each makes $7.50; hence, for 200,000 bales the pickers receive about -fifteen hundred thousand dollars. - -We have taken a round number which does not accurately represent the -actual production for the year 1908, for in that year the American -hop-growers produced about 216,660 bales or 39,000,000 pounds of hops—a -comparatively very small quantity; in fact, 11,000,000 pounds less than -in the preceding year and 21,000,000 pounds less than in the year 1906. - -There are two reasons for this decrease, viz.: 1. because between 1901 -and 1907 the production of beer increased at an unusual rate and the -growers extended their operations accordingly, running perhaps a trifle -ahead of prospective demand; 2. because as a result of the panic the -production of beer has decreased. - -Up to 1899 New York produced the largest quantity of hops; thereafter -Oregon took and maintained first place and from 1902 to the present -time California wrested even second place from New York, so that in -point of production this State now holds the third place among the -four hop-producing States of our country, the fourth being Washington. -Less than one per centum of the total quantity of hops raised in the -United States is produced outside of these four States in each of which -hop-culture is confined to a few counties. This peculiar localization -obtains in all countries, Germany excepted. - -The United States, Germany, Austro-Hungary, Russia and New Zealand -are the only countries which produce more hops than they consume. -The quantity exported from Germany is largest, almost equal to the -exportation from the United States and Austro-Hungary combined. - -For the years 1895 to 1899 the average annual exportation from the -United States amounted to 15,827,630 pounds; and from 1900 to 1904 to -11,863,626 pounds; the average annual imports during the same periods -amounted to 2,414,966, and 3,704,411 pounds, respectively. In 1906 and -1907 the exportation amounted to 17,701,436 and 16,099,950 pounds, -respectively. - -The available but unused area of soil suitable for the cultivation -of hops, the fertility of such soil (in the Pacific States), and the -favorable climate secure to American brewing an abundance of material -for all future time, no matter how rapidly and extensively the industry -may develop hereafter. In all likelihood the insignificant importation -of Bohemian and German hops, noted for their superior quality, will -cease entirely within a few years when the laudable efforts of the -United States Agricultural Department to improve and perfect the -quality of the American product shall have accomplished its purpose. - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - AMERICAN BARLEY. - - -Although any cereal artificially germinated is termed malt, yet, -for various reasons malt made from barley is meant when no other -designation save this general term is given. In past ages, wheat, -corn and oats were used in brewing quite as frequently as barley, and -there are many statutory evidences, showing that the governments of -the various beer-producing countries forbade the malting of any grain -the production of which was insufficient to supply the necessary food -for the people. The very first beer brewed in New York by the Dutch -colonists, was made of oats, there being an abundance of that grain -on Manhattan Island. The Puritans of New England, on the other hand, -seem to have malted wheat in great quantities, as appears from an -order of the General Court of Massachusetts Bay, forbidding the use of -that grain, but permitting the malting of oats or other cereals. At -the present time the use of barley is pretty general. The quantity of -barley produced throughout the world eludes exact computation, however, -because this grain is grown in every zone and in many semi-barbarous -countries, where the collection of agricultural statistics is unknown. -In regard to hops, the case is different, for that plant is cultivated -exclusively for use in breweries, and its cultivation moves within -clearly defined geographical limits. Barley serves largely as food; in -some countries bread is made of it, to the almost entire exclusion of -other grain, and its use in cookery prevails in all countries. - -In view of these facts, we can only take into consideration the -consumption of barley in the form of malt. The data here offered will -be better understood, if it be borne in mind that all light beers of -that peculiarly vinous taste which has of late become somewhat popular, -are made of malt and rice or corn, as in the case of the excellent -Pilsen brands. The prevailing taste, however, still calls for a brewage -of a deep reddish-brown color, peculiar to heavily malted beers. This -question may as well be dropped, it being one of taste, about which, -according to an old proverb, there can be no conclusive arguments. - -The production of barley in the United States expands continually, -and the repeated increases of the protective duty on the foreign -product—pointedly aimed at the Canadian barley—have doubtless given -additional impetus to this growth. Necessarily, the business of -malting has kept pace with the rapid development of brewing, and one -of the inevitable results of the suddenly enlarged demands was the -establishment of many separate malt-houses, fitted up with all modern -improvements. This progress, in turn, led, in a very large measure, -to the discontinuance of malting by brewers. At the present time, a -comparatively small number of brewers malt their own barley, it being -more profitable and, usually, more satisfactory to draw on the maltster -for the requisite supplies. - -[Sidenote: SPECIES OF BARLEY] - -Concerning the manufacture of malt, we have already said what might -appear to be of interest to the reader. The successful pursuit of -it requires not only great skill in the handling of the grain while -undergoing the interesting process of artificial germination, but -also much experience and practice in the selection of the material. -There are many species of barley, distinguished from each other -by, and named according to, the number of rows which form the ear; -thus we have two-rowed, four-rowed and six-rowed barley. Of these -and other species a number of varieties exist, and the quality of -all varies very materially, according to the character of the soil. -In making his purchases the maltster must be able, of course, to -determine whether the grain is of the kind that will yield good beer. -Sight, touch and taste aid him in this, and enable him to make sure -that the grain is fully ripe, of the last harvest, not too hard and -smooth, nor excessively husky; but whether it contains the nitrogenous -compounds, starch, salts, etc., in the desirable proportions, he is -unable to determine, unless he knows the soil where the barley grew -and has tested its qualities before. Given good raw material, the -maltster’s success depends upon his care and vigilance in preparing -for, continuing and interrupting germination at the proper time, and in -judiciously handling the grain after these stages. The process begins -with steeping and ends with kiln-drying, and its object, as we have -already said, is the conversion of starch into sugar. Within the past -twenty-five years innumerable inventions have completely revolutionized -the old methods of the maltster and placed this manufacture among the -most advanced industries. From present indications it appears that the -future of malting belongs to the pneumatic process, which is already -employed in some of the largest establishments. - -Statistical exhibits show that the consumption of malt in our country -is proportionately as large as that of most beer-producing countries; -and, necessarily, the cultivation of barley in the United States is -in proportion thereto. We have this advantage over England, that we -need not draw upon foreign countries for any part of our supply of -barley, except when a particularly fine grade of grain is desired, -such, for instance, as our neighbors on the St. Lawrence raise. In -case of necessity, we might do without any foreign barley; England, -on the other hand, imports large quantities from Russia, Austria, and -the States on the North coast of Africa, and is dependent upon these -foreign supplies, added to what they obtain here. - -As in the case of hops, so also in regard to barley, the American -industry might rely entirely upon domestic production, and, in fact, -for all practical purposes it is wholly independent of foreign sources -of supply. It has become so from necessity, not from choice, for -many brewers still consider Canadian barley superior to our own, and -would, without a doubt, were it not for the prohibitive duty, import -considerable quantities of it and of malt. As matters stand, however, -the importation of malt has ceased almost entirely and the importation -of barley, bears to our exports the proportion of about one to one -hundred. The following figures state the case clearly: - - Exportation of Importation of - Ten Years. Barley. Barley. - - 1899 to 1908 101,226,243 bushels 1,012,941 bushels - -The aggregate quantities of malt imported during the same decade -amounted to 34,658 bushels. - -About three-fourths of the quantity of barley and an even larger -proportion of hops exported from our country find a ready market in -Great Britain and Ireland. - -[Sidenote: THE UNIVERSAL DRINK OF THE FUTURE] - -The phenomenal growth of brewing throughout the world during the past -fifty years has given rise to many speculations as to the future of -malt liquors, and many very able writers do not hesitate to call beer -the universal drink of the future. Formerly confined to about four -great States, the use of malt liquors is now known in every civilized -land; and even in Southern countries, where the grape-vine abounds, -beer is gradually superseding every other beverage. In France, a -wine-country without equal, the most eminent scientists advocate the -use of beer in preference to any other liquor. Spain, Italy, and even -China and Japan, are now being invaded by King Gambrinus, and it is, -indeed, only a question of time when beer shall be, as prophesied, -the universal drink. The literature, in languages other than English -and German, on the subject of beer, proves conclusively that the best -minds regard it as a worthy undertaking to write on a question which -materially affects the welfare of the people. A story is told of a -band of young heathens, whom the Japanese Government sent to Germany -to learn the art of brewing, which has since been introduced into -that country. When the young men returned, muscular, yet rotund, with -a healthy glow upon their cheeks, and elasticity and strength in all -their movements, the ministers were so strongly impressed with the -vitalizing effects of beer, that they ordered a merchantman to proceed -to Germany, load up with beer, and return poste-haste to Japan. The -result of this expedition is said to have accelerated the establishment -of the first brewery in the Mikado’s realm. - -The most remarkable part of this progress of brewing is, that in many -instances, as, for example, in France, it was effected in spite of the -popular clamor against the Teutonic drink; and still more remarkable -is it that those who began by opposing its use most bitterly, ended by -advocating it most fervently. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of American Beer, by -United States Brewers' Association - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICAN BEER *** - -***** This file should be named 62762-0.txt or 62762-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/7/6/62762/ - -Produced by Nahum Maso i Carcases, Emmanuel Ackerman, and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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