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diff --git a/old/62795-0.txt b/old/62795-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 620801e..0000000 --- a/old/62795-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7624 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through -Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, -by Ann Ward Radcliffe - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine - To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland - - -Author: Ann Ward Radcliffe - - - -Release Date: July 31, 2020 [eBook #62795] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY MADE IN THE SUMMER OF -1794, THROUGH HOLLAND AND THE WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY, WITH A RETURN -DOWN THE RHINE*** - - -E-text prepared by Delphine Lettau and the Distributed Proofreaders Canada -team (http://www.pgdpcanada.net) from page images generously made -available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/journeymadeinsum01radcuoft - and - https://archive.org/details/journeymadeinsum02radcuoft - - Project Gutenberg has Volume II of this work: - see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64218 - - - - - - A JOURNEY - - MADE IN THE SUMMER OF 1794, - - THROUGH HOLLAND AND THE - - WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY, - - WITH A RETURN DOWN THE RHINE: - - TO WHICH ARE ADDED - - OBSERVATIONS DURING A TOUR TO - - THE LAKES OF - - LANCASHIRE, WESTMORELAND, AND CUMBERLAND. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. I. - - SECOND EDITION. - - BY ANN RADCLIFFE. - - - _LONDON_: - PRINTED FOR G. G. AND J. ROBINSON, PATERNOSTER-ROW. - MDCCXCV. - - - - -The Author begs leave to observe, in explanation of the use made of -the plural term in the following pages, that, her journey having been -performed in the company of her nearest relative and friend, the -account of it has been written so much from their mutual observation, -that there would be a deception in permitting the book to appear, -without some acknowledgement, which may distinguish it from works -entirely her own. The title page would, therefore, have contained the -joint names of her husband and herself, if this mode of appearing -before the Public, besides being thought by that relative a greater -acknowledgement than was due to his share of the work, had not -seemed liable to the imputation of a design to attract attention -by extraordinary novelty. It is, however, necessary to her own -satisfaction, that some notice should be taken of this assistance. She -may, therefore, be permitted to intrude a few more words, as to this -subject, by saying, that where the œconomical and political conditions -of countries are touched upon in the following work, the remarks are -less her own than elsewhere. - -With respect to the book itself, it is, of course, impossible, and -would be degrading if it were not so, to prevent just censure by -apologies; and unjust censure she has no reason, from her experience, -to fear;--but she will venture to defend a practice adopted in the -following pages, that has been sometimes blamed for its apparent -nationality, by writers of the most respectable authority. The -references to England, which frequently occur during the foreign part -of the tour, are made because it has seemed that one of the best modes -of describing to any class of readers what they may not know, is by -comparing it with what they do. - - May 20, 1795. - - - - -HELVOETSLUYS. - - -About twenty hours after our embarkation, at Harwich, and six after our -first sight of the low-spread and barren coast of _Goree_, we reached -this place, which is seated on one of many inlets, that carry the -waters of the German Ocean through the southern part of the province of -Holland. _Goree_, rendered an island by these encroachments of the -sea, is always the first land expected by the seamen; or rather they -look out for the lofty tower of its church, which, though several miles -more distant than the shore, is visible when that cannot be discerned. -The entrance of the water between the land, in a channel probably three -leagues wide, soon after commences; and Helvoetsluys is then presently -seen, with the masts of vessels rising above its low houses, amidst -green embankments and pastures, that there begin to reward the care of -excluding the sea. - -The names of Dutch towns are in themselves expressive of the objects -most interesting to a people, who, for opportunities of commerce, have -increased their original and natural dangers, by admitting the water in -some parts, while, for their homes and their lives, they must prevent -it from encroaching upon others. _Dam_, _Sluice_, or _Dyke_ occur in -almost all their compounded titles. The sluice, which gives this -town part of its name, is also its harbour; affording, perhaps, an -outlet to the overflowings of the country behind, but filled at the -entrance to the depth of more than eighty feet by the sea, with which -it communicates. - -Upon the banks of this sluice, which are partly artificial, the town -is built in one short street of small houses, inhabited chiefly by -tradesmen and innkeepers. The dockyard bounds the sluice and the town, -communicating with the former by gates, over which a small pivot -bridge connects the two sides of the street. Each head of the pier, -or harbour, has been extended beyond the land, for several yards by -pile work, filled with earth and large stones, over which there is no -pavement, that its condition may be constantly known. We stepped from -the packet upon one of these, and, walking along the beams, that pass -between the immense piles, saw how closely the _interstices_ were -filled, and how the earth and stones were again compacted by a strong -kind of basket-work. - -The arrival of a packet is the chief incident known at Helvoetsluys, -and, as ours entered the harbour about noon, and in fine weather, -perhaps, a fourth part of the inhabitants were collected as spectators. -Their appearance did not surprise us with all the novelty, which we -had expected from the first sight of a foreign people. The Dutch -seamen every where retain the national dress; but the other men of -Helvoetsluys differ from Englishmen in their appearance chiefly by -wearing coarser clothes, and by bringing their pipes with them into the -street. Further on, several women were collected about their baskets -of herbs, and their dress had some of the novelty, for which we were -looking; they had hats of the size of a small chinese umbrella, and -almost as gaudily lined within; close, white jackets, with long -flaps; short, coloured petticoats, in the shape of a diving bell; -yellow slippers, without quarters at the heel; and caps, that exactly -fitted the head and concealed the hair, but which were ornamented at -the temples by gold filagree clasps, twirling, like vine tendrils, over -the cheeks of the wearer. - -Our inn was kept by English people, but the furniture was entirely -Dutch. Two beds, like cribs in a ship, were let into the wainscot; and -we were told, that, in all the inns on our journey, we should seldom, -or never, be shewn into a room, which had not a bed. - -Helvoetsluys, it sufficiently appears, is a very inconsiderable place, -as to its size and inhabitants. But it is not so in naval, or military -estimation. It is distant about ten or twelve miles from the open sea, -yet is nearly secure from attack on this side, because that part of -the approach, which is deep enough for large vessels, is commanded by -batteries on shore. It stands in the middle of an immense bay, large -enough to contain all the navy of Holland, and has a dockyard and -arsenal in the centre of the fortifications. When we passed through -it, six ships of the line and two frigates were lying in the dockyard, -and two ships of the line and three frigates, under the command of an -Admiral, in the bay. - -The fortifications, we were assured upon good military authority, were -in such repair, that not a sod was out of its place, and are strong -enough to be defended by five thousand men against an hundred thousand, -for five weeks. The sea water rises to a considerable height in a wide -ditch, which surrounds them. We omitted to copy an inscription, placed -on one of the walls, which told the date of their completion; but this -was probably about the year 1696, when the harbour was perfected. -Though the dockyard can be only one of the dependencies upon that of -Rotterdam, the largest ships of that jurisdiction are preserved here, -on account of the convenient communication between the port and the -sea. - -Near this place may be observed, what we examined with more leisure -upon our return, the ingenuity, utility and vastness of the -embankments, opposed by the Dutch to the sea. From Helvoetsluys -eastward, for many miles, the land is preserved from the sea only by an -artificial mound of earth, against which the water heavily and often -impetuously strives for admission into the sheltered plains below. The -sea, at high water, is so much above the level of the ground, from -which it is thus boldly separated, that one who stands on the land -side of the embankment hears the water foaming, as if over his head. -Yet the mound itself, which has stood for two centuries, at least, -without repair, though with many renewals of the means, that protect -it, is still unhurt and undiminished, and may yet see generations of -those, whom it defends, rising and passing away, on one side, like the -fluctuations of the tides, which assail and retire from it, on the -other. - -It is better, however, to describe than to praise. The mound, which -appears to be throughout of the same height, as to the sea, is -sometimes more and sometimes less raised above the fields; for, where -the natural level of the land assists in resistance to the water, the -Hollanders have, of course, availed themselves of it, to exert the -less of their art and their labour. It is, perhaps, for the most part, -thirty feet above the adjoining land. The width at top is enough to -permit the passage of two carriages, and there is a sort of imperfect -road along it. In its descent, the breadth increases so much, that it -is not very difficult to walk down either side. We could not measure -it, and may therefore be excused for relating how its size may be -guessed. - -On the land side, it is said to be strengthened by stone and timber, -which we did not see, but which may be there, covered by earth -and grass. Towards the sea, somewhat above and considerably below -high-water mark, a strong matting of flags prevents the surge from -carrying away the surface of the mound; and this is the defence which -has so long preserved it. The matting is held to the shore by bandages -of twisted flags, running horizontally, at the distance of three -or four yards from each other, and staked to the ground by strong -wooden pins. As this matting is worn by every tide, a survey of it is -frequently made, and many parts appear to have been just repaired. -Further in the sea, it is held down by stones; above, there are posts -at every forty yards, which are numbered, that the spot may be exactly -described where repairs are necessary. The impost for the maintenance -of these banks amounts to nearly as much as the land-tax; and, as the -land could not be possessed without it, this tax has the valuable -character of being occasioned by no mismanagement, and of producing no -discontent. - - - - -ROTTERDAM. - - -From Helvoetsluys to this place the usual way is by the Brill and -Maesland sluice, with several changes of carriages and boats; but, on -the days of the arrival of mails, a Rotterdam skipper, whose vessel has -been left at a hamlet on the Maese, takes his party in carriages across -the island of Voorn, on which Helvoetsluys stands, to his schuyt, and -from thence by the Maese to Rotterdam. We paid two ducats, or about -seventeen shillings, for the whole, and found this the highest price -given for travelling in Holland. Our carriage was a sort of small coach -of the fashion, exhibited in paintings of the sixteenth century, but -open before, and so ill-furnished with springs, that the Dutch name, -"a covered waggon," was not an improper description of it. A bad road -led us through some meadows of meagre grass, and through fields in -which corn was higher, though thinner, than in England. The prospect -was over an entire level to the horizon, except that the spires of -distant villages, some small clusters of trees, and now and then a -wind-mill, varied it. As we approached any of these clusters, we found -usually a neat farm-house sheltered within, and included, together -with its garden and orchard, in a perfect green fence: the fields -were elsewhere separated from each other and from the road, neither -by hedges or walls, but by deep ditches filled with water, over which -are laid small bridges, that may be opened in the middle by a sort of -trap-door, raised and locked to a post, to prevent the intrusion of -strangers. - -On the way we passed now and then a waggon filled with large brass -jugs, bright as new gold. In these vessels, which have short narrow -necks, covered with a wooden stopper, milk is brought from the field -throughout Holland. It is always carried to the towns in light waggons, -or carts, drawn frequently by horses as sleek and well-conditioned as -those in our best coaches. - -The hamlet, at which we were to embark, was busied in celebrating -some holiday. At the only cottage, that had a sign, we applied for -refreshment, partly for the purpose of seeing its inside, by which -we were not a little gratified. Thirty or forty peasants were seated -upon benches, about a circle, in which children were dancing to the -scraping of a French fiddler. The women wore their large hats, set -up in the air like a spread fan, and lined with damask, or flowered -linen. Children of seven years old, as well as women of seventy, were -in this preposterous disguise. All had necklaces, ear-rings, and -ornamental clasps for the temples, of solid gold: some wore large black -patches of the size of a shilling. The old woman of the house had a -valuable necklace and head-dress. Among the group were many of Teniers' -beauties; and over the countenances of the whole assemblage was an air -of modesty, decorum, and tranquillity. The children left their dancing, -to see us; and we had almost lost our tide to Rotterdam, by staying to -see them. - -Our sail up the Maese was very delightful. The river flows here with -great dignity, and is animated with vessels of all countries passing -to and from Rotterdam. The huge Archangelman, the lighter American, -the smart, swift Englishman, and the bulky Dutchman, exhibit a various -scene of shipping, upon a noble surface of water, winding between -green pastures and rich villages, spread along the low shores, where -pointed roofs, trees, and masts of fishing-boats, are seen mingled -in striking confusion. Small trading schuyts, as stout and as round -as their masters, glided by us, with crews reposing under their deep -orange sails, and frequently exchanging some salute with our captain. -On our left, we passed the little town of Flaarding, celebrated for -its share of the herring-fishery on our coasts; and Schiedam, a larger -port, where what is called the Rotterdam geneva is made, and where -several English vessels were visible in the chief street of the place. -After a sail of two hours we distinguished Rotterdam, surrounded by -more wood than had yet appeared, and overtopped by the heavy round -tower of the great church of St. Lawrence. The flatness of its -situation did not allow us here to judge of its extent; but we soon -perceived the grandeur of an ample city, extending along the north -shore of the Maese, that, now spreading into a noble bay, along the -margin of which Rotterdam rises, sweeps towards the south-east. - -The part of the city first seen, from the river, is said to be among -the finest in Europe for magnificence and convenience of situation. It -is called the _Boom Quay_, _i. e._ the quay with trees, having rows of -lofty elms upon the broad terrace, that supports many noble houses, but -which is called a quay, because ships of considerable burthen may moor -against it, and deliver their cargoes. The merchants accordingly, who -have residences here, have their warehouses adjoining their houses, -and frequently build them in the form of domestic offices. The quay is -said to be a mile in length, but appears to be somewhat less. There -are houses upon it, as handsome as any in the squares of London. - -At the top of the _Boom Quay_ is one of the _Heads_, or entrances by -water into the city, through which the greater part of its numerous -canals receive their supplies. On the approach to it, the view further -up the Maese detains attention to the bank of this noble river. A vast -building, erected for the Admiralty, is made, by a bend of the Maese, -almost to face you; and the interval, of more than a quarter of a -mile, is filled by a line of houses, that open directly, and without -a terrace, upon the water. The fronts of these are in another street; -but they all exhibit, even on this side, what is the distinction of -Dutch houses and towns, a nicety and a perfectness of preservation, -which give them an air of gaiety without, and present you with an -idea of comfort within. What in England would be thought a symptom of -extraordinary wealth, or extravagance, is here universal. The outside -of every house, however old or humble, is as clean as water and -paint can make it. The window-shutters are usually coloured green; and -whatever wood appears, whether in cornices or worse ornaments, is so -frequently cleaned, as well as painted, that it has always the gloss -of newness. Grotesque ornaments are sometimes by these means rendered -conspicuous; and a street acquires the air of a town in a toyshop; but -in general there is not in this respect such a want of taste as can -much diminish the value of their care. - -Our skipper reached his birth, which is constantly in the same place, -soon after passing the _Head_, and entering by a canal into one of -the principal streets of the city. Between the broad terraces of this -street, which are edged with thick elms, the innumerable masts of Dutch -schuyts, with gay pendants and gilded tops; the hulls of larger vessels -from all parts of the world; the white drawbridges, covered with -passengers; the boats, continually moving, without noise or apparent -difficulty; all this did somewhat surprise us, who had supposed that -a city so familiarly known, and yet so little mentioned as Rotterdam, -could have nothing so remarkable as its wealth and trade. - -In our way from the boat to the inn, other fine canals opened upon us -on each side, and we looked at them till we had lost the man, whom we -should have followed with our baggage. We had no fear that it would be -stolen, knowing the infrequency of robberies in Holland; and the first -person, of whom we could enquire our way in broken Dutch, acknowledged -his country people by answering in very good English. There are many -hundreds of British residents in this place, and our language and -commerce have greatly the sway here over those of all other foreign -nations. The Dutch inscriptions over warehouses and shops have -frequently English translations underneath them. Of large vessels, -there are nearly as many English as Dutch in the harbour; and, if you -speak to any Dutchman in the street, it is more probable that he can -answer in English than in French. On a Sunday, the English fill two -churches, one of which we attended on our return. It is an oblong brick -building, permitted by the States to be within the jurisdiction of the -Bishop of London, Parliament having given 2500l. towards its completion -in the beginning of the present century. There are also many Protestant -dissenters here, who are said to have their offices of worship -performed with the ability, simplicity, and zeal, which are usually to -be observed in the devotions of that class of Christians. - -Rotterdam is the second city for size, and perhaps the first for -beauty, in the United Provinces; yet, when we walked through it the -next day, and expected to find the magnificence of the approach -equalled in its interior, we were compelled to withdraw a little -of the premature admiration, that had begun to extend to the whole -place. The street, where there is most trade and the greatest passage, -the _Hoogstraat_, is little wider, though it is abundantly cleaner, -than a London lane. The Stadthouse is in this street, and is an old -brick building, with a peaked roof, not entirely free from fantastic -ornament. It has been built too early to have the advantages of modern -elegance, and too late for the sanction of ancient dignity. The -market-place has only one wide access; and the communication between -the street, from the principal _Head_, and that in which the Exchange -is placed, is partly through a very narrow, though a short passage. -The Exchange itself is a plain stone building, well designed for its -purpose, and completed about fifty years ago. The happiest circumstance -relating to it is, that the merchants are numerous enough to fill the -colonnades on the four sides of its interior. Commerce, which cannot -now be long discouraged in any part of Europe, because without it the -interest of public debts cannot be paid, is the permanent defender of -freedom and knowledge against military glory and politics. - -From the Exchange there is an excellent walk to the market-place, where -the well-known statue of ERASMUS is raised. Being represented in his -doctor's dress, the figure can display little of the artist's skill; -but the countenance has strong lines, and a physiognomist would not -deny them to be expressive of the discernment and shrewdness of the -original. - -The market-place is really a large bridge, for a canal passes under it; -but its size, and the easiness of ascent from the sides, prevent this -from being immediately observed. Some of the surrounding houses have -their dates marked upon glazed tiles. They were built during the long -war, that rescued the provinces from the Spanish dominion; a time when -it might be supposed that nothing would have been attended to, except -the business of providing daily food, and the duty of resisting the -enemy; but in which the Dutch enlarged and beautified their cities, -prepared their country to become a medium of commerce, and began nearly -all the measures, which have led to their present extensive prosperity. - -Near this place is the great church of St. LAWRENCE, which we -entered, but did not find to be remarkable, except for a magnificent -brass balustrade that crosses it at the upper end. A profusion of -_achievements_, which cover the walls almost to the top, contribute -to its solemnity. In addition to the arms of the deceased, they -contain the dates of their birth and death, and are used instead of -inscriptions, though no names are expressed upon them. Under the pulpit -was an hour-glass, which limits the discourse of the preacher: on -one side a wand, having at the end a velvet bag and a small bell; this -is carried about, during an interval in the service, and every body -puts something into it for the poor. The old beadle, who shewed us -the church, laid his hands upon us with pleasure, when he heard that -we were English, and Protestants. There are three ministers to this -church, with salaries of nearly two hundred pounds sterling each. - -We went to our inn through the _Hoogstraat_, which was filled with -people and carriages, but has no raised pavement to separate the -one from the other. In all the towns which we saw, the footpath is -distinguished from the road only by being paved with a sort of light -coloured brick. The Dutch shops are in the shape, which those of London -are described to have had fifty years since, with small high windows, -and blocks between them and the street. Silversmiths expose their -goods in small glass cupboards upon the blocks, and nearly all the -trades make upon them what little shew is customary. Almost every tenth -house displays the inscription _Tabak te koop_, "Tobacco to be sold." -This street, having no canal, is occupied entirely by retail traders. -We bought in it the Antwerp Gazette for two doights, or one farthing; -strawberries, large and well coloured, at a lower price than they -could be had six weeks later in England, but without flavour; and went -into several booksellers' shops, expecting to have found something in -Latin, or French, but could see only Dutch books. In another street a -bookseller had several English volumes, and there are no doubt well -filled shops, but not so numerous as that we could find any. - -Over the canals, that flow through almost every street of Rotterdam, -are great numbers of large drawbridges, which contribute much to -the neat and gay appearance of the city; but, when these are raised, -the obstruction to the passage occasions crowds on each side; and, -therefore, in some of the most frequented parts, the bridges are entire -and permanent, except for the breadth of three feet in the centre, -where there is a plank, which opens upon hinges almost as easily as -the lid of a trunk. Through this opening the masts of the small Dutch -schuyts are easily conducted, but ships can pass only where there are -drawbridges. The number of the former is immense; for, throughout the -provinces, every village, if it is near a canal, has several schuyts, -which carry away the superfluous produce of the country, and return -with the manufactures, or stores of the towns. But neither their -number, nor their neatness, is so remarkable as the ease and stillness, -with which they traverse the city; and indeed ease and stillness are -much the characteristics of all the efforts of Dutch industry. The -noise and agitation, usual whenever many persons are employed together -in other countries, are unknown here. Ships are brought to their -moorings, schuyts pass each other in crowded canals, heavy burthens are -raised and cargoes removed, almost without a word, that can be heard at -twenty yards distance. - -Another circumstance, rendering Dutch towns freer from noise than -others of equal traffic, is the little use which is made of waggons -and carts, even where some sort of land carriage must be employed. -Heavy commodities are usually carried about the streets on sledges; -and almost the greatest noise is, when the driver of one of these, -after having delivered his load, meaning to render himself a prodigy of -frolicsomeness, stands upon the hinder edges of his sledge, and then, -preventing himself from falling backward by his hold of the reins, is -drawn rapidly through the admiring crowd. - -We were long enough at Rotterdam, during three visits, to see how well -it is provided with avenues towards the country and along the banks of -the Maese. To one of these the way is over the two _Heads_, or chief -canals, each of which you cross for a doight, or half a farthing, in -boats that are continually passing between the two sides. This little -voyage saves a walk of about three hundred yards to the nearest bridge. -The boats will hold twenty or thirty persons, and the profit of them is -very considerable to the City government, which applies the money to -public purposes. Each boat is worked by one man, who pulls it over by a -rope in about two minutes. - -Many of the inhabitants have what they call garden-houses upon these -walks, and upon a semi-circular road, which passes on the land side -of the city; but the most wealthy have seats at greater distances, -where they can be surrounded with grounds, and make the display of -independent residences. - -Upon the whole, Rotterdam has from its situation many conveniences and -delights, and from its structure some magnificence, together with a -general neatness; but is, for the most part, deficient in elegance, -and its beauties have too much the air of prettinesses. The canals are -indisputably fine, crowned with lofty terraces, and deep enough to -carry large vessels into the centre of the city. - - - - -DELFT. - - -Between Rotterdam and this place we commenced our travelling in -trechtschuyts, which are too well known to need description. The fare -is at the rate of about a penny per mile, and a trifle more hires the -_roof_, which is a small separate chamber, nearest to the stern of the -vessel, lighted by windows on each side. In engaging this, you have an -instance of the accuracy of the Dutch in their minutest transactions; a -formal printed receipt, or ticket, is given for the few pence which it -costs, by a commissary, who has no other business than to regulate the -affairs of the trechtschuyts at his gate of the city. We could never -learn what proportion of the fare is paid as a tax to the State, but -it is said to be a considerable part; and not only these schuyts, but -the ferries, the post waggons, and the pilotage throughout the United -States, are made contributory to the public funds. - -The punctuality of the departure and arrival of the trechtschuyts is -well known, and justifies the Dutch method of reckoning distances, -which is by hours, and not by leagues or miles. The canals being -generally full to the brim, the top of the vessel is above the level -of the adjoining country, and the view over it is of course extensive; -but the houses and gardens, which are best worth seeing, are almost -always upon the banks of the canal. We passed several such in the way -to Delft, towards which the Rotterdam merchants have their favourite -seats; but Dutch gardens are rather to be noticed by an Englishman as -curiosities, than as luxuries. It is not only by the known ill taste -of their ornaments, but by the effects of climate and the soil, that -gardens are deprived of value, in a country, where the moisture is so -disproportioned to the heat, that the verdure, though bright, has no -fragrance, and the fruit, at its utmost size, scarcely any flavour. - -A passage of two hours brought us to Delft, which we had expected to -find a small and ill-inhabited place, knowing it to be not now occupied -by any considerable trade. Our inn, we supposed, must be within a few -minutes walk. We proceeded, however, through one street for half a -mile, and, after some turnings, did not reach our inn, though we were -led by the nearest way, in less than twenty minutes. During all this -time we were upon the terraces of clear canals, amongst excellent -houses, with a small intermixture of shops and some public buildings. -The mingled admiration and weariness, which we felt here, for the first -time, have been, however, often repeated; for if there is a necessity -for saying what is the next distinction of Dutch towns, after their -neatness, their size must be insisted upon. There are Dutch villages, -scarcely marked in a map, which exceed in size some of the county -towns in England. _Maesland Sluice_, a place opposite to the Brill, -is one. And here is Delft, a place with scarcely any other trade than -consists in the circulation of commodities from Rotterdam through some -neighbouring villages; which is not the seat of any considerable part -of the national government, and is inferior, in point of situation, to -all the surrounding towns. Delft, thus undistinguished, fills a large -circumference, with streets so intricately thick, that we never went -from our inn without losing our way. - -The _Doolen_, one of the best inns in Holland, is a large building of -the sixteenth century, raised by the Spaniards, and first intended -to be a convent; but, having been used by the burghers of Delft for -public purposes, during the struggle of the Province against Spain, -it is now venerable as the scene of their councils and preparations. -In the suite of large apartments, which were used by them, some of the -city business is still transacted, and in these strangers are never -entertained. Behind, is a bowling-green, in which the burghers to this -day perform their military exercises; they were so employed when we -came in; and it was pleasing to consider, that their inferiority to -their ancestors, in point of martial appearance, was the result of the -long internal peace secured by the exertions of the latter. - -Over two arches of the building is the date of its erection, 1565, -the year in which the destruction of all families, professing the -Protestant religion either in France or Spain, is supposed to have been -agreed upon at Bayonne between the sovereigns of the two countries, -and one year preceding the first measures of confederate resistance -in the Low Countries, which that and other efforts of persecution -produced. One of these arches communicates with the rooms so long used -by the burghers; and our hostess, an intelligent woman, accompanied -us through them. The first is ornamented with three large pictures, -representing several of the early burghers of the Commonwealth, either -in arms or council. A portrait of BARNEVELDT is marked with the date -and the painter's name, "MICHAEL MIEREVELD _delineavit ac perfunctoriè -pinxit, 1617_," one year before the flagitious arrest of BARNEVELDT, in -defiance of the constitution of the provinces, by MAURICE of ORANGE. A -piece, exhibiting some of the burghers in arms, men of an handsome and -heroic appearance, is also dated, by having 1648 painted on a drum; -that, which shews them in council, has a portrait of GROTIUS, painted -when he was seventeen. His face is the seventh from the right hand in -the second row. - -Beyond this room are others containing several score of small -cupboards, on the doors of each of which are two or three blazonries -of arms. Here are deposited some parts of the dress and arms of an -association of Arquesbusiers, usual in all the Dutch towns; the members -of which society assemble annually in October, to shoot at a target -placed in a pavilion of the old convent garden. The marksman takes his -aim from the farthest room; and between him and the mark are two walls, -perforated two feet and a half in length, and eight inches in breadth, -to permit the passage of the shot. A man stands in the pavilion, to -tell where the ball has struck; and every marksman, before he shoots, -rings a bell, to warn this person out of the way. He that first hits -a white spot in the target, has his liquor, for the ensuing year, -free of excise duty; but, to render this more difficult, a stork is -suspended by the legs from a string, which, passing down the whole -length of the target, is kept in continual motion by the agitation of -the bird. It did not appear whether the stork has any other share in -this ancient ceremony, which is represented in prints of considerable -date. It is held near the ground, out of the way of the shot, and is -certainly not intended to be hurt, for the Dutch have no taste for -cruelty in their amusements. The stork, it is also known, is esteemed -by them a sort of tutelary bird; as it once was in Rome, where ASELLUS -SEMPRONIUS RUFUS, who first had them served at an entertainment, is -said to have lost the Prætorship for his sacrilegious gluttony. In -these trivial enquiries we passed our first evening at Delft. - -Early the next morning, a battalion of regular troops was reviewed upon -a small plain within the walls of the town. The uniform is blue and -red, in which the Dutch officers have not quite the smart appearance -of ours. One of these, who gave the word to a company, was a boy, -certainly not more than fifteen, whose shrill voice was ludicrously -heard between the earnest shouts of the others. The firing was very -exact, which is all that we can tell of the qualities of a review. - -Delft was a place of early importance in the United Provinces, being -one of the six original cities, that sent Deputies to the States of -the province; a privilege, which, at the instance of their glorious -WILLIAM the First of ORANGE, was afterwards properly extended to twelve -others, including Rotterdam and the Brill. Yet it is little celebrated -for military events, being unfortified, and having probably always -obeyed the fortune of the neighbouring places. The circumstance which -gives it a melancholy place in history, is the murder of the wife and -beneficent Prince who founded the republic. His palace, a plain brick -building, is still in good repair, where strangers are always shewn the -staircase on which he fell, and the holes made in the wall by the shot -that killed him. The old man, who keeps the house, told the story with -as much agitation and interest as if it had happened yesterday. "The -Prince and Princess came out of that chamber--there stood the Prince, -here stood the murderer; when the Prince stepped here to speak to him -about the passport, the villain fired, and the Prince fell all along -here and died. Yes, so it was--there are the holes the balls made." -Over one of these, which is large enough to admit two fingers, is this -inscription: - -"_Hier onder staen de Teykenen der Kooglen daar meede Prins Willem van -Orange is doorschootten op_ 10 July, A. 1584." - -To this detestable action the assassin acknowledged himself to have -been instigated by the proclamation of Philip the Second, offering a -reward for its perpetration. The Princess, who had the wretchedness to -witness it, had lost her father and her former husband in the massacre -of St. Bartholomew in France, which, though contrived by Catherine -and Charles the Ninth of that country, is believed to have been the -consequence of their interview at Bayonne, with Isabella, the wife of -the same Philip. - -The melancholy excited on this spot is continued by passing from it to -the tomb of WILLIAM, in the great church, called the _Nieuwe Kerk_. -There the gloomy pageantry of the black escutcheons, above a choir, -silent, empty and vast, and the withering remains of colours, won by -hands long since gone to their decay, prolong the consideration of the -transientness of human worth and happiness, which can so easily be -destroyed by the command, or the hand of human villainy. - -This tomb is thought to be not exceeded by any piece of sepulchral -grandeur in Europe. Standing alone, in a wide choir, it is much more -conspicuous and striking than a monumental fabric raised against a -wall, at the same time that its sides are so varied as to present each -a new spectacle. It was begun in 1609, by order of the States General, -and completed in 1621; the artist, HENDRIK DE KEYZER, receiving 28,000 -florins as its price, and 2000 more as a present. The length is 20 -feet, the breadth 15, and height 27. A bronze statue of the Prince, -sitting in full armour, with his sword, scarf, and commander's staff, -renders one side the chief; on the other is his effigy in white marble, -lying at full length; and at his feet, in the same marble, the figure -of the dog, which is said to have refused food from the moment of its -master's death. Round the tomb, twenty-two columns of veined or black -Italian marble, of the Doric order, and, with bases and capitals of -white marble, support a roof or canopy, ornamented with many emblems, -and with the _achievements_ of the Prince. - -At the corners, are the statues of Religion, Liberty, Justice, and -Fortitude, of which the first rests upon a piece of black marble, on -which is inscribed in golden letters the name of CHRIST; and the second -holds a cap, with the inscription _Aurea Libertas_. On the four sides -of the canopy are the devices of the Prince, with the inscriptions -JEHOVAH.--_Je maintiendrai Piété et Justice._--_Te Vindice, tuta -Libertas._--And, _Sævis tranquillus in Undis_. - -There are many other ornaments, which give dignity or elegance to the -structure, but cannot be described without tediousness. The well-known -Epitaph is certainly worth transcribing: - -D. O. M. et eternæ memoriæ Gulielmi Nassoviæ, supremi Auransionensium -Principis, Patr. patriæ, qui Belgii fortunis suas posthabuit et -suorum; validissimos exercitus ære plurimum privato bis conscripsit, -bis induxit; ordinum auspiciis Hispaniæ tyrannidem propulit; veræ -religionis cultum, avitas patriæ leges revocavit, restituit; ipsam -denique libertatem tantum non assertam, Mauritio Principi, paternæ -virtutis hæredi filio, stabiliendam reliquit. Herois vere pii, -prudentis, invicti, quem Philip. II. Hisp. R. Europæ timor, timuit; -non domuit, non terruit; sed empto percussore fraude nefanda sustulit; -Fœderat. Belgii provinc. perenni memor. monum. fec. - -"To GOD the best and highest, and to the eternal memory of William of -Nassau, Sovereign Prince of Orange, the father of his country, whose -welfare he preferred to that of himself and his family; who, chiefly -at his own expence, twice levied and introduced a powerful army; under -the sanction of the States repelled the tyranny of Spain; recovered -and restored the service of true religion and the ancient laws of the -country; and finally left the liberty, which he had himself asserted, -to be established by his son, Prince Maurice, the heir of his father's -virtues. The Confederated Belgic Provinces have erected this monument, -in perpetual memory of this truly pious, prudent and unconquered Hero, -whom Philip II. King of Spain, the dread of Europe, dreaded; never -overcame, never terrified; but, with wicked treachery, carried off by -means of an hired assassin." - -The tomb of GROTIUS is in the same church, which is a stately building -of brick and stone, but has nothing of the "dim religious light," that -sooths the mind in Gothic structures. Upon the steeple are many small -bells, the chimes rung upon which are particularly esteemed, both for -tone and tune. - -On the opposite side of a very large market-place is the Town-house, -an old building, but so fresh and so fantastic with paint, as to have -some resemblance to a Chinese temple. The body is coloured with a -light, or yellowish brown, and is two stories high to the roof, in -which there are two tier of peaked windows, each under its ornament of -gilded wood, carved into an awkward resemblance of shells. Upon the -front is inscribed, "_Delphensium Curia Reparata_," and immediately -over the door "_Reparata 1761_." - -The _Oude Kerk_, or Old Church, is in another part of the town, and is -not remarkable, except for the tombs of LEUWENHOEK, PETER HEINE and -VAN TROMP. That of LEUWENHOEK has a short inscription, in Latin almost -as bad as that of a verse epitaph upon GROTIUS, in the other church. -He was born, it appears, in October 1632, and died in August 1723. -The tombs of HEINE and VAN TROMP are very handsome. There are the -effigies of both in white marble, and one of the victories gained by -the latter is represented in _alto relievo_. On account of the tombs, -both churches are open, during certain hours in the day; and a beadle, -or, perhaps, an almsman, is placed in each, who presents a padlocked -box, into which money may be put for the poor. - -In this town is the chief arsenal of the province of Holland, except -that the magazine of powder is at the distance of about a mile from -it, near the canal to Rotterdam. In 1787, when the dissensions between -the STATES GENERAL and the PRINCE of ORANGE were at their height, a -provincial free corps seized this arsenal, and held it for the States -till the return of the PRINCE of ORANGE to the Hague, a few weeks -afterwards. - -Having seen what was pointed out to our notice, at Delft, and learned -that its extensiveness was owing to the residence of a great number -of retired merchants from Rotterdam, we left it in a _trechtschuyt_ -for the Hague, having little other notion of it in our minds, than -that it is very dull and very rich, and of a size, for which there is -no recompense to a stranger, except in considering, that its dullness -is the rest of those, who have once been busy, and that its riches -are at least not employed in aggravating the miseries of poverty by -ostentation. - - - - -THE HAGUE. - - -A voyage of an hour and a half brought us here over a canal well -bordered by country houses and gardens, all of which, as in other parts -of Holland, have some inscription upon their gates, to say, that they -are pleasant, or are intended for pleasure. _Fine Sight_, _Pleasant -Rest_, _High Delight_, or some similar inscription, is to be seen over -the door of every country house, in gold letters. On our way, we looked -for Ryswick, where the treaty of 1697 was signed, and saw the village, -but not the palace, which, being of free stone, is mentioned as a -sort of curiosity in the country. It is this palace, which is said to -contain proofs of an extraordinary dispute upon questions of ceremony. -The Ambassadors, sent to prepare the treaty, are related to have -contended so long, concerning their rights of precedence, that the only -mode of reconciling them was to make separate entrances, and to allow -the Mediating Minister alone admission by the principal gate. - -From the _trechtschuyt_ we had a long walk to our inn, an handsome -house, standing almost in the midst of palaces, and looking over a -noble sheet of water, called the _Vyver_, which extends behind the -_Court_, for its whole length, flowing nearly to the level of the -lower windows. The _Court_ itself, a large brick building, irregular, -but light and pleasant, was entirely within our view, on the left; on -the right, a row of magnificent houses, separated from the _Vyver_ by a -large mall; and, in front, beyond the _Vyver_, a broad place, bordered -by several public buildings. In this Court all the superior colleges -of government have their chambers, and the PRINCE of ORANGE his suite -of apartments. The fossé, which surrounds it, three drawbridges and -as many gates are the only fortifications of the Hague, which has -been several times threatened with the entrance of an enemy, but has -not been taken since 1595, when the magistrates of the then infant -republic, and all the superior inhabitants, retired to _Delft_, leaving -the streets to be overrun with grass, and the place to become a desert -under the eyes of its oppressors. During the invasion of LOUIS the -FOURTEENTH, it escaped the ravages of the DUKE of LUXEMBOURG'S -column, by the sudden dissolution of the ice, on which he had placed -9000 foot and 2000 cavalry. Yet the advice of WILLIAM the THIRD, who -probably thought money better expended in strengthening the frontier -than the interior of the country, counteracted a plan of fortification, -which was then proposed, for the third or fourth time. - -The Court consists of two squares; in the inner of which are the -apartments of the STADTHOLDER, and none but himself and his family can -enter this in carriages, or on horseback. On the northern side, in the -first floor, are the apartments of the STATES GENERAL, which we saw. -The principal one is spacious, as a room, but has not the air of a -hall of debate. Twenty-six chairs for the Deputies are placed on two -sides of a long table: the President, whose chair is in the centre, has -on his right hand, first, a Deputy of his own province, then three -Deputies of Friesland, and two of Groningen; on his left, six Deputies -of Holland; opposite to him, nearest to the head of the table, six -Deputies of Guelderland, then three of Zealand, then two of Utrecht, -and two of Overyssel. The STADTHOLDER, who has a place, but not a -vote, has a raised chair at the upper end of the table; the Secretary -is seated opposite to him, and is allowed to wear his hat, like the -Deputies, during their deliberations, but must stand uncovered, behind -the President, when he reads letters, or other papers. The number of -Deputies is known to be indefinite; about fifty are generally returned; -and those, who are present from each province, more than the number -allowed at the table, place themselves below it. The walls of this room -are covered with tapestry, not representing historical events, but -rural scenery; the backs and seats of the chairs are of green velvet; -and all the furniture, though stately and in the best condition, is -without the least approach to show. These apartments, and the whole of -this side of the Court, were the residence of CHARLES the FIFTH, when -he visited the Hague, and of the EARL of LEICESTER, when he commanded -the troops lent to the Republic by ELIZABETH. - -The government of the United Provinces is too well known to permit a -detailed description here, but some notice may reasonably be expected -of it. - -The chief depositaries of the sovereignty are not the States General, -but the Provincial States, of whose Deputies the former body is -composed, and without whose consent they never vote upon important -measures. In the States General each Province has one vote; which, -with the reasons for it, may be delivered by an unlimited number of -Deputies; and the first Deputy of each province presides in the States -by rotation for a week. In questions relative to peace or war, -alliances, taxes, coinages, and to the privileges of provinces, no -measures can be taken but by unanimous consent; upon other occasions, -a majority is sufficient. No persons holding military offices can -be Deputies to the States General, which appoints and receives all -ambassadors, declares war, makes peace, and names the Greffier, or -Secretary of State, and all Staff Officers. - -The Provincial States are variously composed, and the interior -governments of the provinces variously formed. In the province of -Holland, which contains the most prosperous part of the Republic, there -are eighteen Deputies to the Provincial States, for as many towns, and -one for the nobility. The Grand Pensionary presides in this assembly, -and is always one of the Deputies from it to the States General. - -The Council of Deputies is composed of ten members: nine from the -towns, and one from the nobility. This Council, in which the Grand -Pensionary also presides, regulates the finances of the province, and -takes cognizance of the distribution of troops within it. - -The Council, called the Council of State, is composed, like the States -General, of Deputies returned from the provinces, and appears to be to -that body, in a great measure, what the Council of Deputies is to the -Provincial States, having the direction of the army and the finances. - -As provincial affairs are directed by the Provincial States, so the -affairs of each town are governed by its own Senate, which also returns -the members, if the town is entitled to send one, to the States of -the Province, and directs the vote, which that member shall give. -The Burgomasters in each town are the magistrates charged with the -police and the finances, and are usually elected annually by the old -Council, that is, by those who have been Burgomasters, or _Echevins_. -These latter officers have the administration of civil and criminal -affairs, and are, in some places, appointed by the Stadtholder from -a double number nominated to him; in others, are accepted from the -recommendation of the Stadtholder. The Bailiffs preside in the Council -of Burgomasters and Echevins; and in their name prosecutions are -instituted. - -Of the Deputies to the States General, some are for life, and some for -one or more years. - -Such is the nicely complicated frame of this government, in which the -Senates of the Towns elect the Provincial States, and the Provincial -States the States General; the latter body being incapable of deciding -in certain cases, except with unanimity and with the express consent -of their constituents, the Provincial States; who again cannot give -that consent, except with unanimity and with the consent of their -constituents, the Senates. - -The Stadtholder, it is seen, has not directly, and in consequence of -that office, any share of the legislative power; but, being a Noble -of four provinces, he, of course, participates in that part of the -sovereignty, which the Nobility enjoy when they send Deputies to the -Provincial States. Of Zealand he is the only Noble, all the other -titled families having been destroyed in the original contest with -Spain; and there are no renewals or creations of titles in the United -Provinces. In Guelderland, Holland, and Utrecht, he is President of -the Nobles. He is Commander of all the Forces of the Republic by sea -and land; and the Council of State, of which he is a member, is, in -military affairs, almost entirely under his direction; he names all -subaltern officers, and recommends those for higher appointments to -the States General. In Guelderland, Utrecht, and Overyssel, which -are called _Provinces aux Reglemens_, because, having submitted to -LOUIS the FOURTEENTH, in 1672, they were not re-admitted to the Union, -but with some sacrifice of their privileges, he appoints to offices, -without the nomination of the cities; he is Governor General of the -East and West Indian Companies, and names all the Directors from a -treble number of candidates offered by the Proprietors. His name -presides in all the courts of law; and his heart, it may be hoped, -dictates in the noble right of pardoning. - -This is the essential form of a government, which, for two centuries, -has protected as great a share of civil and religious liberty as has -been enjoyed in any other part of Europe, resisting equally the chances -of dissolution, contained within itself; and the less dangerous schemes -for its destruction, dictated by the jealousy of arbitrary interests -without. - -Its intricacy and delicacy are easily seen; yet, of the objections made -to it on this account, more are founded on some maxims, assumed to be -universal, than upon the separate considerations due to the condition -of a separate people. How much the means of political happiness depend, -for their effect, upon the civil characters of those for whom they are -designed, has been very little seen, or insisted upon. It has been -unnoticed, because such enquiries have not the brilliancy, or the -facility, of general speculations, nor can command equal attention, -nor equally reward systems with those parts of their importance, that -consist in the immensity of the sphere, to which they pretend. To -extend their arms is the flagitious ambition of warriors; to enlarge -their systems is the ambition of writers, especially of political -writers. A juster effort of understanding would aim at rendering the -application of principles more exact, rather than more extensive, and -would produce enquiries into the circumstances of national character -and condition, that should regulate that application. A more modest -estimate of human means of doing good would shew the gradations, -through which all human advances must be made. A more severe integrity -of views would stipulate, that the means should be as honest as the -end, and would strive to ascertain, from the moral and intellectual -character of a people, the degree of political happiness, of which -they are capable; a process, without which projected advances become -obstructions; and the philosopher begins his experiment, for the -amelioration of society, as prematurely as the sculptor would polish -his statue before he had delineated the features. - -Whether the constitution of the United Provinces is exactly as good -an one as the people are capable of enjoying, can be determined only -after a much longer and abler enquiry than we could make; but it seemed -proper to observe, that, in judging this question, it is not enough to -discover better forms of government, without finding also some reason -to believe, that the intellectual and moral condition of the people -would secure the existence of those better forms. In the mean time, -they, who make the enquiry, may be assured, that, under the present[1] -government, there is a considerable degree of political liberty, though -political happiness is not permitted by the present circumstances of -Europe; that the general adoption of the Stadtholder's measures by -the States has been unduly mentioned to shew an immoderate influence, -for that, in point of fact, his measures are often rejected; that -this rejection produces no public agitation, nor can those, who -differ from him in opinion, be successfully represented as enemies to -their country; that there are very few offices, which enable private -persons to become rich, at the expence of the public, so as to have a -different interest from them; that the sober industry and plain manners -of the people prevent them from looking to political conduct of any -sort as a means of improving their fortunes; that, for these reasons, -the intricate connections between the parts of their government are -less inconvenient than may be supposed, since good measures will not -be obstructed, or bad ones supported, for corrupt purposes, though -misconceptions may sometimes produce nearly the same effect; that -conversation is perfectly free; and that the habit of watching the -strength of parties, for the purpose of joining the strongest and -persecuting the weakest, does not occupy the minds of any numerous -classes amongst them. - -[1] June 1794. - -We saw no other apartments than those of the States General, the -PRINCE of ORANGE being then in his own. The Princess was at a seat -in Guelderland, with her daughter-in-law, the wife of the Hereditary -Prince, who had been indisposed since the surprise of the Dutch troops -at Menin, on the 12th of September 1793, in which affair her husband -was engaged. When the officer, who brought the first accounts, which -were not written, to the Hague, had related that the younger prince -was wounded, the Hereditary Princess enquired, with great eagerness, -concerning his brother. The officer indiscreetly replied, that he knew -nothing of him; which the Princess supposed to imply, that he was dead; -and she has since been somewhat an invalid. - -Though the salaries enjoyed by the Prince of Orange, in consequence -of his offices, are by no means considerable, he is enabled, by -his patrimonial estates, to maintain some modest splendour. The -Court is composed of a grand master, a marshal, a grand equerry, ten -chamberlains, five ladies of honour, and six gentlemen of the chamber. -Ten young men, with the title of pages, are educated at the expence of -the Prince, in a house adjoining his _manege_. As Captain-General, he -is allowed eight adjutants, and, as Admiral, three. - -We could not learn the amount of the income enjoyed by the PRINCE of -ORANGE, which must, indeed, be very variable, arising chiefly from -his own estates. The greater part of these are in the province of -Zealand, where seventeen villages and part of the town of Breda are his -property. The fortifications of several places there are said to have -been chiefly erected at the expence of the Orange family. His farms in -that neighbourhood suffered greatly in the campaign of 1792, and this -part of his income has since been much diminished. The management of -his revenues, derived from possessions in Germany, affords employment -to four or five persons, at an Office, separate from his ordinary -Treasury; and he had estates in the Low Countries. All this is but -the wreck of a fortune, honourably diminished by William the First -of Orange, in the contest with Spain; the remembrance of whom may, -perhaps, involuntarily influence one's opinion of his successors. - -During May, the western gate of the palace is ornamented, according to -ancient custom, with garlands for each person of the Orange family. -Chaplets, with the initials of each, in flowers, are placed under large -coronets, upon green flag-staffs. We passed by when they were taking -these down, and perceived that all the ornaments could scarcely have -cost five shillings. So humble are the Dutch notions of pageantry. - -Among the offices included within the walls of the court is a -printing-house, in which the STATES GENERAL and the States of Holland -employ only persons sworn to secrecy as to the papers committed to -them. It may seem strange to require secrecy from those, whose art is -chiefly useful in conferring publicity; but the truth is, that many -papers are printed here, which are never communicated to the public, -the States employing the press for the sake of its cheapness, and -considering that any of their members, who would shew a printed paper, -would do the same with a written one. - -In a large square, near the court, is the cabinet of natural history, -of which we have not the knowledge necessary for giving a description. -It is arranged in small rooms, which are opened, at twelve o'clock, -to those, who have applied the day before. One article, said to be -very rare, and certainly very beautiful, was an animal of the Deer -species, about fourteen inches high, exquisitely shaped and marked, and -believed to be at its full growth. It was brought from the coast of -Africa. - -The Stadtholder's library was accidentally shut, owing to the illness -of the librarian. The picture gallery was open, but of paintings we -have resolved to exempt our readers from any mention. The former is -said to contain eight thousand volumes, and fourteen thousand prints -in portfolios. Among the illuminated MSS. in vellum is one, used by -the sanguinary Catherine De Medicis and her children; and another, -which belonged to Isabella of Castille, the grandmother of Charles -the Fifth. What must be oddly placed in a library is a suit of armour -of Francis the First, which was once in the cabinet of Christina of -Sweden. Though this collection is the private property of the Prince, -the librarian is permitted to lend books to persons, known to him and -likely to use them advantageously for science. - -We passed a long morning in walking through the streets of this place, -which contain probably more magnificent houses than can be found in -the same space in any city of Northern Europe. The Grand _Voorbout_ -is rather, indeed, two series of palaces than a street. Between two -broad carriage-ways, which pass immediately along the sides, are -several alleys of tall lime trees, canopying walks, first laid out by -Charles the Fifth, in 1536, and ordered to be carefully preserved, -the _placard_ being still extant, which directs the punishment of -offenders against them. It would be tedious to mention the many -splendid buildings in this and the neighbouring streets. Among the most -conspicuous is the present residence of the British Ambassadors, built -by HUGUETAN, the celebrated banker of LOUIS the FOURTEENTH, and that of -the Russian Minister, which was erected by the Pensionary BARNEVELDT. -But the building, which was intended to exceed all others at the -Hague, is the Hotel of the Prince of NASSAU WEILBOURG; who, having -married the sister of the PRINCE of ORANGE, bought, at an immense -expence, eight good houses, facing the _Voorbout_, in order to erect -upon their scite a magnificent palace. What has been already built of -this is extremely fine, in the crescent form; but a German, arriving -to the expenditure of a Dutch fortune, probably did not estimate it -by Dutch prices. It was begun eighteen years since, and, for the last -twelve, has not proceeded. - -Superb public buildings occur at almost every step through the Hague. -At one end of the terrace, on which we were lodged, is the _Doelen_, -a spacious mansion, opening partly upon the _Tournois Veld_, or Place -of Tournaments. The burgesses here keep their colours, and, what is -remarkable, still preserve the _insignia_ of the _Toison d'Or_, given -to them by CHARLES the FIFTH. Our WILLIAM the THIRD being admitted, -at ten years of age, to the right of a burgess here, was invested with -this order by the Burgomaster. At the other end of the terrace is the -palace, built for Prince MAURICE of NASSAU, upon his return from the -government of Brazil, by KAMPFEN, Lord of Rambroek, architect of the -Stadthouse at Amsterdam. The interior of this building was destroyed -by fire, in the commencement of the present century; but, the stately -walls of stone and brick being uninjured, the rooms were restored -by the proprietors, assisted by a lottery. It is an instance of the -abundance of buildings here, that this palace is now chiefly used as a -place of meeting, for the œconomical branch of the society of Haerlem, -and for a society, instituted here, for the encouragement of Dutch -poetry. - -The number of public buildings is much increased by the houses, which -the eighteen towns provide for their Deputies, sent to the States of -the Province. These are called the _Logements_ of the several towns; -and there has been a great deal of emulation, as to their magnificence. -Amsterdam and Rotterdam have the finest. - -The churches are not remarkable for antiquity, or grandeur. A -congregation of English Protestants have their worship performed, in -the manner of the Dissenters, in a small chapel near the _Vyver_, where -we had the satisfaction to hear their venerable pastor, the Rev. Dr. -M'CLEAN. - -The residence of a Court at the Hague renders the appearance of the -inhabitants less national and characteristic than elsewhere. There are -few persons in the streets, who, without their orange cockades, might -not be mistaken for English; but ribbons of this colour are almost -universal, which some wear in their hats, and some upon a button-hole -of the coat. The poorest persons, and there are more poor here than -elsewhere, find something orange-coloured to shew. Children have it -placed upon their caps; so that the practice is carried to an extent -as ridiculous, as the prohibition was in 1785, when the magistrates -ordered, that _nothing orange-coloured should be worn, or shewn, not -even fruits, or flowers, and that carrots should not be exposed to sale -with the ends outwards_. - -The distinctions between political classes are very strongly marked and -preserved in Holland. We were informed, that there are some villages, -in which the wearing of a cockade, and others, in which the want of -one, would expose a passenger, especially a native, to insults. In the -cities, where those of both parties must transact business together, -the distinction is not much observed. In Amsterdam, the friends of -the Stadtholder do not wear cockades. For the most part, the seamen, -farmers and labouring classes in the towns are attached to the Orange -family, whose opponents are chiefly composed of the opulent merchants -and tradesmen. - -A history, or even a description of the two parties, if we were enabled -to give it, would occupy too much space here; but it may be shortly -mentioned, that the original, or chief cause of the dissension was, -as might be expected, entirely of a commercial nature. The English -interest had an unanimous popularity in Holland, about the year 1750. -In the war of 1756, the French, having sustained a great loss of -shipping, employed Dutch vessels to bring the produce of their American -islands to Europe, and thus established a considerable connection with -the merchants of Amsterdam and Rotterdam. The Court of Versailles took -care, that the stream of French wealth, which they saw setting into the -United Provinces, should carry with it some French politics; while the -wealth itself effected more than all their contrivance, and gradually -produced a kindness for France, especially in the province of Holland, -through which it chiefly circulated. The English Ministers took all -Dutch ships, having French property on board; and the popularity of -England was for a time destroyed. Several maritime towns, probably -with some instigation from France, demanded a war against England. -The friends of the Stadtholder prevented this; and from that time the -Prince began to share whatever unpopularity the measures of the English -Ministers, or the industry of the English traders, could excite in a -rival and a commercial country. - -The capture of the French West India islands soon after removed the -cause of the dispute; but the effects of it survived in the jealousy -of the great cities towards the Stadtholder, and were much aggravated -by the losses of their merchants, at the commencement of hostilities -between England and the United Provinces, in 1780. The Dutch fleet -being then unprepared to sail, and every thing, which could float, -having been sent out of the harbours of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire to -intercept their trading ships, the fortunes of many of the most opulent -houses in Holland were severely shook, and all their members became the -enemies of the Stadtholder. - -If to these circumstances it is added, that the province of Holland, -which pays fifty-eight parts of every hundred, levied by taxes, has an -ambition for acquiring greater influence in the general government, -than is bestowed by its single vote, we have probably all the original -causes of the party distinctions in Holland, though others may have -been incorporated with others, during a long series of events and many -violent struggles of the passions. - -The Stadtholder, who has had the misfortune to attract so much -attention by his difficulties, is said to be a man of plain manners -and sound understanding, neither capable of political intrigue, nor -inclined to it. His office requires, especially during a war, a great -deal of substantial, personal labour, to which he devotes himself -earnestly and continually, but which he has not the vigour to bear, -without an evident oppression of spirits. We saw him at a parade of the -Guards, and it is not necessary to be told of his labours to perceive -how much he is affected by them. It is scarcely possible to conceive -a countenance more expressive of a mind, always urged, always pressed -upon, and not often receiving the relief of complete confidence in -its efforts. His person is short and extremely corpulent; his air -in conversation modest and mild. This attendance upon the parade is -his chief exercise, or relaxation at the Hague, where he frequently -passes ten of the hours between five in a morning and nine at night in -his cabinet. He comes, accompanied by one or two officers, and his -presence produces no crowd. When we had viewed the parade and returned -home, we saw him walking under our windows towards the _Voorbout_, -accompanied by an officer, but not followed by a single person. - -Conversation does not turn so much upon the family of the Stadtholder, -as that we could acquire any distinct opinions of the other parts of -it. Of his humanity and temper, there was sufficient proof, in 1787, -when he returned to the Hague and was master of the persons of those, -who had lately banished him. Indeed, the conduct of both parties, with -respect to the personal safety of their adversaries, was honourable -to the character of the nation. The States of Holland, during the -prevalence of their authority, did not pretend, according to the -injustice of similar cases, to any right of destroying the friends of -the Stadtholder, who were in their hands; the Stadtholder, when he -returned, and when the public detestation of his adversaries was at an -height, which would have permitted any measures against them, demanded -no other retribution, than that seventeen, named in a list, should be -declared incapable of holding offices under the Republic. - -One of the best excursions from the Hague is made to the _Maison -du Bois_, a small palace of the Prince of ORANGE, in a wood, which -commences almost at the northern gate of the town. This wood is called -a park, but it is open to the public roads from Leyden, Haerlem and -Amsterdam, which pass through its noble alleys of oak and beech. It -is remarkable for having so much attracted the regard of Philip the -Second, that, in the campaign of 1574, he ordered his officers not to -destroy it; and is probably the only thing, not destined for himself, -of which this ample destroyer of human kind and of his own family -ever directed the preservation. LOUIS the FOURTEENTH, probably having -heard the praises of this care, left the mall of Utrecht to be a -monument of similar tenderness, during an unprovoked invasion, which -cost ten thousand lives. - -The apartments of the _Maison du Bois_ are very variously furnished. -The best are fitted up with a light grey sattin, imbossed with Chinese -birds and plants, in silk and feathers of the most beautiful tints; the -window curtains, screens and coverings of the sophas and chairs are the -same, and the frames of the latter are also of Chinese workmanship. -Nothing more delicate and tasteful can be conceived; but, that you may -not be quite distracted with admiration, the carpets are such as an -English merchant would scarcely receive into a parlour. The furniture -of the state bed-chamber is valuable, and has once been splendid; a -light balustrade of curious Japan work, about three feet high, runs -across the room, and divides that part, in which the bed stands, from -the remainder. The Princess's drawing-room, in which card parties -are sometimes held, is well embellished with paintings, and may be -called a superb apartment; but here again there is an instance of the -incompleteness, said to be observable in the furniture of all rooms, -out of England. Of four card tables two are odd ones, and literally -would be despised in a broker's shop in London. The great glory of -the house is the _Salle d'Orange_, an oblong saloon of noble height, -with pannels, painted by nine celebrated painters of the Flemish and -Dutch schools, among whom VAN TULDEN, a pupil of RUBENS, has observed -his manner so much in a workshop of Vulcan and in a figure of Venus -forming a trophy, that they have been usually attributed to his -master. The subjects on the pannels and ceiling are all allegorical, -and complimentary, for the most part, to the Princes of the House -of Orange, especially to FREDERIC HENRY, the son of the first WILLIAM -and the grandson of the Admiral COLIGNY. It was at the expence of his -widow, that the house was built and the saloon thus ornamented. - -Almost all the rooms are decorated with family portraits, of which some -have just been contributed by the pencil of the Hereditary Princess. A -large piece represents herself, taking a likeness of the Princess her -mother-in-law, and includes what is said to be an admirable portrait -of her husband. On the six doors of the grand cabinet are six whole -lengths of ladies of the House of Orange, exhibited in allegorical -characters. The doors being covered by the paintings, when that, by -which you have entered, is shut, you cannot tell the way back again. -A portrait of LOUISA DE COLIGNY, the widow of William the First, is -enriched with a painter's pun; she is presented by _Hope_ with a -branch of an _orange_ tree, containing only _one_ orange; from which -the spectator is to learn, that her _son_ was her _only hope_. - -The most delightful outlet from the Hague is towards Schevening, a -village on the sea-shore, nearly two miles distant, the road to which -has been often and properly celebrated as a noble monument of tasteful -grandeur. Commencing at the canal, which surrounds the Hague, it -proceeds to the village through a vista so exactly straight, that the -steeple of Schevening, the central object at the end of it, is visible -at the first entrance. Four rows of lofty elms are planted along -the road, of which the two central lines form this perfect and most -picturesque vista; the others shelter paths on each side of it, for -foot passengers. - -The village itself, containing two or three hundred houses of fishermen -and peasants, would be a spectacle, for its neatness, any where but -in Holland. There is no square, or street of the most magnificent -houses in London, that can equal it for an universal appearance of -freshness. It is positively bright with cleanliness; though its only -street opens upon the sea, and is the resort of hundreds of fishermen. -We passed a most delightful day at a little inn upon the beach, -sometimes looking into the history of the village, which is very -ancient; then enquiring into its present condition; and then enjoying -the prospect of the ocean, boundless to our view, on one side, and -appearing to be but feebly restrained by a long tract of low white -coast on the other. - -The sea beats furiously upon the beach here, which has no doubt been -much raised by art for the defence of the village. There is at least -no other way of accounting for its security, since 1574, between which -year and the latter end of the preceding century, it sustained -six inundations. The first, in 1470, demolished a church; the last -washed away an hundred and twenty houses; notwithstanding which, the -inhabitants built again upon their stormy shore; and their industry, -that, at length, protected them from the sea, enabled them to endure -also the more inveterate ravages of the Spaniards. On this beach lie -occasionally great numbers of herring busses, too stoutly built to -be injured by touching it. We suspect our information to have been -exaggerated; but we heard on the spot, that no less than one hundred -and five belong to this village of little more than two hundred houses, -or are managed by agents in it. About forty were set on float by the -tide in the afternoon, and, being hauled by means of anchors beyond a -very heavy surf, were out of sight, before we left the place. - -It was amusing to see the persevering, effectual, but not very active -exertions of the seamen in this business, which could not often be more -difficult than it then was, when a strong wind blew directly upon the -shore. We here first perceived, what we had many other opportunities -of observing, that, notwithstanding the general admiration of Dutch -industry, it is of a nature which would scarcely acquire that name in -England. A Dutchman of the labouring class is, indeed, seldom seen -unemployed; but we never observed one man working hard, according -to the English notion of the term. Perseverance, carefulness, and -steadiness are theirs, beyond any rivalship; the vehemence, force, -activity and impatience of an English sailor, or workman, are unknown -to them. You will never see a Dutchman enduring the fatigue, or -enjoying the rest, of a London porter. Heavy burthens, indeed, they do -not carry. At Amsterdam, where carriages are even somewhat obnoxious, -a cask, holding four or five gallons of liquor, is removed by a horse -and a sledge. - -On our way from Schevening, where a dinner costs more than at an hotel -in the Hague, we turned a little to the right to see Portland Gardens, -once the favourite resort of William and Mary; and said to be laid -out in the English taste. They are now a bad specimen even of Dutch -gardens. The situation is unusually low, having on one hand the raised -bank of the Schevening road, and, on another, the sand hills of the -coast. Between these, the moisture of the sea air is held for a long -time, and finally drawn down upon the earth. The artificial ornaments -are stained and decaying; and the grass and weeds of the neglected -plots are capable only of a putrid green. Over walks of a black mould -you are led to the orangery, where there is more decay, and may look -through the windows of the green-house, to perceive how every thing is -declining there. Some pavilions, provided with water spouts, are then -to be seen; and, if you have the patience to wait the conclusion of -an operation, intended to surprise you, you may count how many of the -pipes refuse to perform their office. - -Nearer to the Hague, we were stopped to pay a toll of a few doights; -a circumstance which was attended with this proof of civility. Having -passed in the morning, without the demand, we enquired why it should be -made now. The gatherer replied, that he had seen us pass, but, knowing -that we must return by the same way, had avoided giving more trouble -than was necessary. This tax is paid for the support of the bank, or -digue, over which the road passes; a work, begun on the 1st of May -1664, and finished on the 5th of December 1665, by the assistance of a -loan granted for the enterprise. The breadth of the road is thirty-two -yards. - -The next day, after seeing the relief of the Stadtholder's _garde -du corps_, the privates of which wear feathered hats, with uniforms -of scarlet and gold, we left the Hague, with much admiration of -its pleasantness and quiet grandeur, and took the _roof_ of the -trechtschuyt for Leyden. - - - - -LEYDEN. - - -Three hours pleasant floating along a canal, adorned with frequent -country houses, gardens, summer-houses and square balconies, or rather -platforms, projecting over the water, within an hand's breadth of -its level, brought us to this city, which was esteemed the second -in Holland, before Rotterdam gained its present extent. Leyden is, -however, so large, that a traveller is likely to have a walk of half -a league to his inn; and those who arrive, as we did, at the time of -the fair, may find the procession not very pleasant. We increased our -difficulties by turning away from the dirt and incivility of what was -called the best inn, and did not afterwards find a better, though such, -it seems, might have been had. - -Having, at length, become contented with the worst, we went towards the -fair, of which we had as yet seen only the crowd. The booths, being -disposed under trees and along the borders of canals, made the whole -appearance differ from that of an English fair, though not quite so -much as we had expected. The stock of the shopkeepers makes a greater -distinction. There were several booths filled with silversmiths' and -jewellers' wares, to the amount of, probably, some thousand pounds -each. Large French clocks in _or moulu_ and porcelain were among their -stores. All the trades displayed the most valuable articles, that could -be asked for in similar shops in large cities. We had the pleasure -to see great quantities of English goods, and there were English names -over three, or four of the booths. - -The Dutch dresses were now become so familiar to us, that the crowd -seemed as remarkable for the number of other persons in it, as for the -abundance of peasants in their holiday finery, which, it is pleasant to -know, displays the ornamental relics of several generations, fashion -having very little influence in Holland. The fair occupied about a -fourth part of the town, which we soon left to see the remainder. Two -streets, parallel to each other, run through its whole length, and -include the few public halls of an University, which would scarcely -be known to exist, if it had no more conspicuous objects than its -buildings. The Dutch universities contain no endowed foundations; so -that the professors, who have their salaries from the States, live in -private houses, and the students in lodgings. The academical dress is -worn only in the schools, and by the professors. The library, to which -Joseph Scaliger was a benefactor, is open only once in a week, and then -for no more than two hours. It is the constant policy of the Dutch -government, to make strangers leave as much money as possible behind -them; and Leyden was once so greatly the resort of foreigners, that it -was thought important not to let them read for nothing what they must -otherwise be obliged to buy. The University is, of course, declining -much, under this commercial wisdom of the magistrates. - -There are students, however, of many nations and religions, no -oaths being imposed, except upon the professors. Physic and botany -especially are said to be cultivated here with much success; and -there is a garden, to which not only individuals, but the East India -Company, industriously contribute foreign plants. The salaries of -the professors, who receive, besides, fees from the students, are -nearly two hundred pounds a-year. The government of the University -is in the Rector, who is chosen out of three persons returned by the -Senate to the States; the Senate consists of the professors; and, -on extraordinary occasions, the Senate and Rector are directed by -Curators, who are the agents for the States. - -The chief street in the town is of the crescent form, so that, -with more public buildings, it would be a miniature resemblance of -High-street, Oxford. The town-house is built with many spires, and -with almost Chinese lightness. We did not see the interior of this, -or, indeed, of any other public buildings; for, in the morning, when -curiosity was to be indulged, our fastidiousness as to the inns -returned, and induced us to take a passage for Haerlem. The MSS. of the -Dutch version of the Bible, which are known to be deposited here, could -not have been shewn, being opened only once in three years, when the -Deputies of the Synod and States attend; but we might have seen, in the -town-house, some curious testimonies of the hardships and perseverance -of the inhabitants, during the celebrated blockade of five months, in -1574, in consideration of which the University was founded. - -After viewing some well-filled booksellers' shops, and one wide street -of magnificent houses, we again made half the circuit of this extensive -city, in the way to the trechtschuyt for - - - - -HAERLEM. - - -The canal between Leyden and this place is nearly the pleasantest of -the great number, which connect all the towns of the province with each -other, and render them to the traveller a series of spectacles, almost -as easily visited as the amusements of one large metropolis. Though -this is said to be one of the lowest parts of Holland, the country -does not appear to have suffered more than the rest by water. The many -country seats, which border the canals, are also proofs that it is -thought to be well secured; yet this is the district, which has been -proved, by indisputable observations, to be lower than the neighbouring -sea, even in the profoundest calm. During the voyage, which was of four -hours, we passed under several bridges, and saw numbers of smaller -canals, crossing the country in various directions; but the passage of -a trechtschuyt is not delayed for an instant by a bridge, the tow-rope -being loosened from the boat, on one side, and immediately caught -again, on the other, if it should not be delivered by some person, -purposely stationed on the arch. It is not often that a canal makes -any bend in its course; when it does so, there are small, high posts -at the point, round which the tow-rope is drawn; and, that the cord -may not be destroyed by the friction, the posts support perpendicular -rollers, which are turned by its motion. Such posts and rollers might -be advantageously brought into use in England. On most of the canals -are half-way villages, where passengers may stop, about five minutes, -for refreshment; but they will be left behind, without any ceremony, if -they exceed the limited time, which the boatman employs in exchanging -letters for such of the neighbouring country houses as have not packet -boxes placed on the banks. - -Haerlem, like Leyden, is fortified by brick walls, but both seem to be -without the solid earthen works, that constitute the strength of modern -fortresses. A few pieces of cannon are planted near the gate, in order -to command the bridge of a wide _fossé_; and the gate-house itself is a -stout building, deep enough to render the passage underneath somewhat -dark. There is otherwise very little appearance of the strength, that -resisted the Duke of Alva, for twelve months, and exasperated his -desire of vengeance so far, that the murder of the inhabitants, who at -last surrendered to his promises of protection, could alone appease it. - -A narrow street leads from the gate to the market-place, where two -pieces of cannon are planted before the guard-house; the first -precaution against internal commotion, which we had seen in the -country. Haerlem had a great share in the disputes of 1787, and is said -to adhere more fully than any other city to the Anti-Stadtholderian -politics of that period. - -The market-place is very spacious, and surrounds the great church, -perhaps, the largest sacred building in the province of Holland. The -lofty oak roof is marked with dates of the early part of the sixteenth -century. The organ, sometimes said to be the best in Europe, is of -unusual size, but has more power of sound than sweetness. The pipes -are silvered, and the body carefully painted; for organs are the only -objects in Dutch churches, which are permitted to be shewy. They -are now building, in the great church at Rotterdam, a rival to this -instrument, and need not despair of surpassing it. - -A great part of the congregation sit upon chairs in the large aisle, -which does not seem to be thought a much inferior place to the other -parts. During an evening service, at which we were present, this was -nearly filled; and while every person took a separate seat, women -carried _chauffepieds_, or little wooden boxes, with pans of burning -peat in them, to the ladies. This was on the 4th of June. The men enter -the church with their hats on, and some wear them, during the whole -service, with the most disgusting and arrogant hardihood. - -We passed a night at Haerlem, which is scarcely worth so long a stay, -though one street, formed upon the banks of a canal, consists of -houses more uniformly grand, than any out of the Hague, and surprises -you with its extensive magnificence at a place, where there is little -other appearance of wealth and none of splendour. But the quietness -of the Great in Holland is daily astonishing to a stranger, who -sometimes passes through rows of palaces, without meeting a carriage, -or a servant. The inhabitants of those palaces have, however, not less -earnest views, than they who are more agitated; the difference between -them is, that the views of the former are only such as their situation -enables them to gratify, without the agitation of the latter. They can -sit still and wait for the conclusion of every year, at which they -are to be richer, or rather are to have much more money, than in the -preceding one. They know, that, every day the silent progress of -interest adds so much to their principal; and they are content to watch -the course of time, for it is time alone that varies their wealth, -the single object of their attention. There can be no motive, but its -truth, for repeating the trite opinion of the influence of avarice -in Holland: we expected, perhaps, with some vanity, to have found an -opportunity for contradicting it; but are able only to add another -testimony of its truth. The infatuation of loving money not as a means, -but as an end, is paramount in the mind of almost every Dutchman, -whatever may be his other dispositions and qualities; the addiction to -it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, and universal from youth to the -feeblest old age. - -Haerlem has little trade, its communication with the sea being through -Amsterdam, which latter place has always been able to obstruct the -reasonable scheme of cutting a canal through the four miles of land, -that separate the former from the ocean. Its manufactures of silk -and thread are much less prosperous than formerly. Yet there are no -symptoms of decay, or poverty, and the environs are well covered -with gardens especially on the banks of the _Sparen_, of which one -branch flows through the town and the other passes under the walls. -Some charitable institutions, for the instruction and employment of -children, should be mentioned also, to assuage the general censure of a -too great fondness for money. - -The house of LAURANCE COSTER, who is opposed to FAUST, GOTTENBURGH -and SCHEFFER, for the honour of having invented the art of printing, -is near the great church and is still inhabited by a bookseller. An -inscription, not worth copying, asserts him to be the inventor. The -house, which is small and stands in a row with others, must have -received its present brick front in some time subsequent to that of -COSTER. - - - - -AMSTERDAM. - - -The voyage between Haerlem and this place is less pleasant, with -respect to the country, than many of the other trips, but more -gratifying to curiosity. For great part of the way, the canal passes -between the lake, called _Haerlemer Maer_, and a large branch of the -_Zuyder Zee_, called the River Y. In one place, the neck of land, -which separates these two waters, is so thin, that a canal cannot be -drawn through it; and, near this, there is a village, where passengers -leave their first boat, another waiting for them at the renewal of -the canal, within a quarter of a mile. Here, as upon other occasions -of the same sort, nearly as much is paid for the carriage of two or -three trunks between the boats, as for the whole voyage; and there -is an _Ordonnatie_ to authorize the price; for the Magistrates have -considered, that those, who have much baggage, are probably foreigners, -and may be thus made to support many of the natives. The Dutch -themselves put their linen into a velvet bag, called a _Rysack_, and -for this accordingly no charge is made. - -The _Half Wegen Sluice_ is the name of this separation between two vast -waters, both of which have gained considerably upon their shores, and, -if united, would be irresistible. At the narrowest part, it consists -pile-work and masonry, to the thickness of probably forty feet. On this -spot the spectator has, on his left hand, the Y, which, though called a -river, is an immense inundation of the Zuyder Zee, and would probably -carry a small vessel, without interruption, into the German ocean. On -the other hand, is the Haerlem lake, about twelve miles long and nine -broad, on which, during the siege of Haerlem, the Dutch and Spaniards -maintained fleets, and fought battles. Extending as far as Leyden, -there is a passage upon it from that city to Amsterdam, much shorter -than by the canal, but held to be dangerous. Before the year 1657, -there was, however, no other way, and it was probably the loss of the -Prince of Bohemia and the danger of his dethroned father upon the lake, -that instigated the making of the canal. - -This sluice is one of several valuable posts, by which Amsterdam may be -defended against a powerful army, and was an important station, during -the approach of the Duke of BRUNSWICK in 1787, when this city was the -last, which surrendered. All the roads being formed upon dikes, or -embankments, may be defended by batteries, which can be attacked only -by narrow columns and in front. The Half Wegen Sluice was, however, -easily taken by the Duke of BRUNSWICK, his opponents having neglected -to place gun-boats on the Haerlem lake, over which he carried eight -hundred men in thirty boats, and surprised the Dutch before day-break, -on the morning of the first of October. This was one of his real -assaults, but there were all together eleven made on that day, and, on -the next, the city proposed to surrender. - -Beyond the sluice, the canal passes several breaches, made by -inundations of the Y, and not capable of being drained, or repaired. -In these places the canal is separated from the inundations either by -piles, or floating planks. None of the breaches were made within the -memory of the present generation, yet the boatmen have learned to speak -of them with horror. - -There is nothing magnificent, or grand, in the approach to Amsterdam, -or the prospect of the city. The sails of above an hundred windmills, -moving on all sides, seem more conspicuous than the public buildings of -this celebrated capital. - -The trechtschuyt having stopped on the outside of the gate, we waited -for one of the public coaches, which are always to be had by sending -to a livery stable, but do not stand in the street for fares. It -cost half-a-crown for a drive of about two miles into the city; the -regulated price is a guilder, or twenty-pence. Our direction was to the -_Doolen_; but the driver chose to take us to another inn, in the same -street, which we did not discover to be otherwise called, till we had -become satisfied with it. - -Nearly all the chief thorough-fares of Amsterdam are narrow, but the -carriages are neither so numerous as in other places of the same size, -nor suffered to be driven with the same speed; so that, though there is -no raised pavement, foot passengers are as safe as elsewhere. There -are broad terraces to the streets over the two chief canals, but these -are sometimes encumbered by workshops, placed immediately over the -water, between which and the houses the owners maintain an intercourse -of packages and planks, with very little care about the freedom of the -passage. This, indeed, may be constantly observed of the Dutch: they -will never, either in their societies, or their business, employ their -time, for a moment, in gratifying the little malice, or shewing the -little envy, or assuming the little triumphs, which fill so much of -life with unnecessary miseries; but they will seldom step one inch out -of their way, or surrender one moment of their time, to save those, -whom they do not know, from any inconvenience. A Dutchman, throwing -cheeses into his warehouse, or drawing iron along the path-way, -will not stop, while a lady, or an infirm person passes, unless he -perceives somebody inclined to protect them; a warehouseman trundling -a cask, or a woman in the favourite occupation of throwing water upon -her windows, will leave it entirely to the passengers to take care of -their limbs, or their clothes. - -The canals themselves, which are the ornaments of other Dutch cities, -are, for the most part, the nuisances of Amsterdam. Many of them are -entirely stagnant, and, though deep, are so laden with filth, that, -on a hot day, the feculence seems pestilential. Our windows opened -upon two, but the scent very soon made us willing to relinquish the -prospect. The bottoms are so muddy, that a boat-hook, drawn up, -perhaps, through twelve feet of water, leaves a circle of slime at -the top, which is not lost for many minutes. It is not unusual to see -boats, laden with this mud, passing during mid-day, under the windows -of the most opulent traders; and the fetid cargoes never disturb the -intense studies of the counting-houses within. - -After this distaste of the streets and canals of Amsterdam, it was a -sort of duty to see, what is the glory of the city, the interior of the -Stadthouse; but we lost this spectacle, by a negligence of that severe -punctuality, in which the Dutch might be usefully imitated throughout -the world. Our friends had obtained for us a ticket of admission at -ten; we called upon them about half an hour afterwards; but, as the -ride from their house would have required ten minutes more, the time -of this ticket was thought to be elapsed. We would not accept one, -which was offered to be obtained for another day, being unwilling to -render it possible, that those, who were loading us with the sincerest -civilities, should witness another apparent instance of inattention. - -The Stadthouse, as to its exterior, is a plain stone building, -attracting attention chiefly from its length, solidity and height. -The front is an hundred and eight paces long. It has no large gate, but -several small ones, and few statues, that would be observed, except -one of Atlas on the top. The tales, as to the expence of the building, -are inexhaustible. The foundation alone, which is entirely of piles, -is said to have cost a million of guilders, or nearly ninety thousand -pounds, and the whole edifice treble that sum. Its contents, the stock -of the celebrated Bank, are estimated at various amounts, of which we -will not repeat the lowest. - -The Exchange is an humble building, and not convenient of access. -The Post Office is well situated, upon a broad terrace, near the -Stadthouse, and seems to be properly laid out for its use. - -None of the churches are conspicuous for their structure; but the -regulation, with respect to their ministers, should be more known. -Two are assigned to each, and all throughout the city have equal and -respectable salaries. - -At a distance from the Exchange are some magnificent streets, raised -on the banks of canals, nearly equalling those of the Hague for the -grandeur of houses, and much exceeding in length the best of Leyden and -Haerlem. These are the streets, which must give a stranger an opinion -of the wealth of the city, while the Port, and that alone, can display -the extensiveness of its commerce. The shops and the preparations for -traffic in the interior have a mean appearance to those, who try them -by the standard of London conveniences and elegance. - -The best method of seeing the Port is to pass down it in a boat to some -of the many towns, that skirt the Zuyder Zee. One convenience, easy -to be had every where, is immediately visible from the quays. Small -platforms of planks supported by piles project from the shore between -the vessels, which are disposed with their heads towards the sides of -these little bridges; the furthest has thus a communication with the -quay, and, if the cargo is not of very heavy articles, may be unladen -at the same time with the others. The port is so wide, that, though -both sides are thronged with shipping, the channel in the middle is, at -least, as broad as the Thames at London Bridge; but the harbour does -not extend to more than half the length of the _Pool_ at London, and -seems to contain about half the number of vessels. The form of the port -is, however, much more advantageous for a display of shipping, which -may be here seen nearly at one glance in a fine bay of the _Zuyder_. - -After a sail of about an hour, we landed at Saardam, a village -celebrated for the Dockyards, which supply Amsterdam with nearly all -its fleets. A short channel carries vessels of the greatest burthen -from Saardam to the Zuyder Zee, which the founders of the place took -care not to approach too nearly; and the terrace at the end of this -channel is prepared for the reception of cannon, that must easily -defend it from any attack by sea. Though the neighbourhood of a -dockyard might be supposed a sufficient antidote to cleanliness, the -neatness of this little town renders it a spectacle even to the Dutch -themselves. The streets are so carefully swept, that a piece of orange -peel would be noticed upon the pavement, and the houses are washed -and painted to the highest polish of nicety. Those, who are here in a -morning, or at night, may probably see how many dirty operations are -endured for the sake of this excessive cleanliness. - -We were shewn nearly round the place, and, of course, to the cottage, -in which the indefatigable Peter the First of Russia resided, when he -was a workman in the dockyard. It is a tenement of two rooms, standing -in a part of the village, so very mean, that the alleys near it are -not cleaner, than those of other places. An old woman lives in the -cottage, and subsists chiefly by shewing it to visitors, amongst whom -have been the present Grand Duke and Duchess of Russia; for the Court -of Petersburgh acknowledge it to have been the residence of Peter, -and have struck a medal in commemoration of so truly honourable a -palace. The old woman has received one of these medals from the present -Empress, together with a grant of a small annuity to encourage her care -of the cottage. - -We passed an agreeable afternoon, at an inn on the terrace, from whence -pleasure vessels and passage boats were continually departing for -Amsterdam, and had a smart sail, on our return, during a cloudy and -somewhat a stormy sunset. The approach to Amsterdam, on this side, is -as grand as that from Haerlem is mean, half the circuit of the city, -and all its spires, being visible at once over the crowded harbour. -The great church of Haerlem is also seen at a small distance, on the -right. The Amstel, a wide river, which flows through the city into -the harbour, fills nearly all the canals, and is itself capable of -receiving ships of considerable burthen: one of the bridges over it, -and a terrace beyond, are among the few pleasant walks enjoyed by the -inhabitants. The Admiralty, an immense building, in the interior of -which is the dockyard, stands on this terrace, or quay; and the East -India Company have their magazine here, instead of the interior of the -city, where it would be benevolence to let its perfume counteract the -noxiousness of the canals. - -The government of Amsterdam is said to collect by taxes, rents and dues -of various sorts, more than an English million and a half annually; -and, though a great part of this sum is afterwards paid to the use of -the whole Republic, the power of collecting and distributing it must -give considerable consequence to the magistrates. The Senate, which -has this power, consists of thirty-six members, who retain their seats -during life, and were formerly chosen by the whole body of burghers; -but, about two centuries ago, this privilege was surrendered to the -Senate itself, who have ever since filled up the vacancies in their -number by a majority of their own voices. The _Echevins_, who form -the court of justice, are here chosen by the burghers out of a double -number, nominated by the Senate: in the other cities, the Stadtholder, -and not the burghers, makes this choice. - -It is obvious, that when the City Senates, which return the Provincial -States, and, through them, the States General, were themselves -elected by the burghers, the legislature of the United Provinces had -a character entirely representative; and, at present, a respect for -public opinion is said to have considerable influence in directing the -choice of the Senates. - -The province of Holland, of which this city is the most important part, -is supposed to contain 800,000 persons, who pay taxes to the amount of -twenty-four millions of guilders, or two millions sterling, forming -an average of two pounds ten shillings per person. In estimating the -real taxation of a people, it is, however, necessary to consider the -proportion of their consumption to their imports; for the duties, -advanced upon imported articles, are not ultimately and finally -paid till these are consumed. The frugal habits of the Dutch permit -them to retain but a small part of the expensive commodities, which -they collect; and the foreigners, to whom they are resold, pay, -therefore, a large share of the taxation, which would be so enormous, -if it was confined to the inhabitants. Among the taxes, really paid by -themselves, are the following;--a land-tax of about four shillings and -nine pence per acre; a sale-tax of eight per cent. upon horses, one and -a quarter per cent. upon other moveables, and two and an half per cent. -upon land and buildings; a tax upon inheritances out of the direct -line, varying from two and an half to eleven per cent.; two per cent. -upon every man's income; an excise of three pounds per hogshead upon -wine, and a charge of two per cent. upon all public offices. The latter -tax is not quite so popular here as in other countries, because many -of these offices are actually purchased, the holders being compelled -to buy stock to a certain amount, and to destroy the obligations. The -excise upon coffee, tea and salt is paid annually by each family, -according to the number of their servants. - -The inhabitants of Amsterdam, and some other cities, pay also a tax, -in proportion to their property, for the maintenance of companies of -city-guards, which are under the orders of their own magistrates. In -Amsterdam, indeed, taxation is somewhat higher than in other places. -Sir William Temple was assured, that no less than thirty duties might -be reckoned to have been paid there, before a certain dish could be -placed upon a table at a tavern. - -The exact sums, paid by the several provinces towards every hundred -thousand guilders, raised for the general use, have been often printed. -The share of Holland is 58,309 guilders and a fraction; that of -Overyssel, which is the smallest, 3571 guilders and a fraction. - -Of five colleges of Admiralty, established within the United -Provinces, three are in Holland, and contribute of course to point out -the pre-eminence of that province. It is remarkable, that neither of -these supply their ships with provisions: They allow the captains to -deduct about four-pence halfpenny per day from the pay of each sailor -for that purpose; a regulation, which is never made injurious to the -seamen by any improper parsimony, and is sometimes useful to the -public, in a country where pressing is not permitted. A captain, who -has acquired a character for generosity amongst the sailors, can muster -crew in a few days, which, without such a temptation, could not be -raised in as many weeks. - -We cannot speak with exactness of the prices of provisions in this -province, but they are generally said to be as high as in England. The -charges at inns are the same as on the roads within an hundred miles of -London, or, perhaps, something more. Port wine is not so common as a -wine which they call Claret, but which is compounded of a strong red -wine from Valencia, mixed with some from Bourdeaux. The general price -for this is twenty pence English a bottle; three and four pence is the -price for a much better sort. About half-a-crown per day is charged for -each apartment; and _logement_ is always the first article in a bill. - -Private families buy good claret at the rate of about eighteen pence -per bottle, and chocolate for two shillings per pound. Beef is sold -for much less than in England, but is so poor that the Dutch use it -chiefly for soup, and salt even that which they roast. Good white -sugar is eighteen pence per pound. Bread is dearer than in England; -and there is a sort, called milk bread, of uncommon whiteness, which -costs nearly twice as much as our ordinary loaves. Herbs and fruits are -much lower priced, and worse in flavour; but their colour and size -are not inferior. Fish is cheaper than in our maritime counties, those -excepted which are at a great distance from the metropolis. Coffee is -very cheap, and is more used than tea. No kind of meat is so good as -in England; but veal is not much inferior, and is often dressed as -plainly and as well as with us. The innkeepers have a notion of mutton -and lamb chops; but then it is _à la Maintenon_; and the rank oil of -the paper is not a very delightful sauce. Butter is usually brought to -table _clarified_, that is, purposely melted into an _oil_; and it is -difficult to make them understand that it may be otherwise. - -The Dutch have much more respect for English than for other travellers; -but there is a jealousy, with respect to our commerce, which is -avowed by those, who have been tutored to calm discussion, and may be -perceived in the conversation of others, whenever the state of the -two countries is noticed. This jealousy is greater in the maritime than -in the other provinces, and in Amsterdam than in some of the other -cities. Rotterdam has so much direct intercourse with England, as to -feel, in some degree, a share in its interests. - -Some of our excursions round Amsterdam were made in a curious vehicle; -the body of a coach placed upon a sledge, and drawn by one horse. The -driver walks by the side, with the reins in one hand, and in the other -a wetted rope, which he sometimes throws under the sledge to prevent it -from taking fire, and to fill up the little gaps in the pavement. The -appearance of these things was so whimsical, that curiosity tempted us -to embark in one; and, finding them laughed at by none but ourselves, -the convenience of being upon a level with the shops, and with the -faces that seemed to contain the history of the shops, induced us to -use them again. There are great numbers of them, being encouraged by -the magistrates, in preference to wheel carriages, and, as is said, -in tenderness to the piled foundations of the city, the only one in -Holland in which they are used. The price is eight pence for any -distance within the city, and eight pence an hour for attendance. - -Near Amsterdam is the small village of Ouderkirk, a place of some -importance in the short campaign of 1787, being accessible by four -roads, all of which were then fortified. It consists chiefly of the -country houses of Amsterdam merchants, at one of which we passed a -pleasant day. Having been but slightly defended, after the loss of the -posts of _Half Wegen_ and _Amstelveen_, it was not much injured by the -Prussians; but there are many traces of balls thrown into it. The ride -to it from Amsterdam is upon the chearful banks of the Amstel, which -is bordered, for more than five miles, with gardens of better verdure -and richer groves than had hitherto appeared. The village was spread -with booths for a fair, though it was Sunday; and we were somewhat -surprised to observe, that a people in general so gravely decorous -as the Dutch, should not pay a stricter deference to the Sabbath. We -here took leave of some friends, whose frank manners and obliging -dispositions are remembered with much more delight than any other -circumstances, relative to Amsterdam. - - - - -UTRECHT. - - -The passage from Amsterdam hither is of eight hours; and, -notwithstanding the pleasantness of trechtschuyt conveyance, seemed -somewhat tedious, after the habit of passing from city to city in half -that time. The canal is, however, justly preferred to others, on -account of the richness of its surrounding scenery; and it is pleasing -to observe how gradually the country improves, as the distance from -the province of Holland and from the sea increases. Towards Utrecht, -the gardens rise from the banks of the canal, instead of spreading -below its level, and the grounds maintain avenues and plantations of -lofty trees. Vegetation is stronger and more copious; shrubs rise to a -greater height; meadows display a livelier green; and the lattice-work -of the bowery avenues, which occur so frequently, ceases to be more -conspicuous than the foliage. - -It was Whitsuntide, and the banks of the canal were gay with holiday -people, riding in waggons and carts; the latter frequently carrying a -woman wearing a painted hat as large as an umbrella, and a man with -one in whimsical contrast clipped nearly close to the crown. The lady -sometimes refreshed herself with a fan, and the gentleman, meanwhile, -with a pipe of tobacco. Every village we passed resounded with hoarse -music and the clatter of wooden shoes: among these the prettiest -was _Nieuversluys_, bordering each side of the canal, with a white -drawbridge picturesquely shadowed with high trees, and green banks -sloping to the water's brim. Pleasure-boats and trechtschuyts lined the -shores; and the windows of every house were thronged with broad faces. -On the little terraces below were groups of smokers, and of girls in -the neat trim Dutch dress, with the fair complexion and air of decorous -modesty, by which their country-women are distinguished. - -About half way from Amsterdam stands a small modern fortification; and -it is an instance of Dutch carefulness, that grass had just been mowed -even from the parapets of the batteries, and was made up in heaps -within the works. Not far from it is an ancient castle of one tower, -left in the state to which it was reduced during the contest with the -Spaniards. - -Near Utrecht, the ground has improved so much, that nothing but -its evenness distinguishes it from other countries; and, at some -distance eastward, the hills of Guelderland rise to destroy this last -difference. The entrance into the city is between high terraces, from -which steps descend to the canal; but the street is not wide enough -to have its appearance improved by this sort of approach. Warehouses, -formed under the terraces, shew also that the latter have been raised -more for convenience than splendour. - -The steeple of the great church, formerly a cathedral, excites, in -the mean time, an expectation of dignity in the interior, where some -considerable streets and another canal complete the air of an opulent -city. It is not immediately seen, that a great part of the body of -this cathedral has been destroyed, and that the canals, being subject -to tides, have dirty walls during the ebb. The splendour, which might -be expected in the capital of a province much inhabited by nobility, -does not appear; nor is there, perhaps, any street equal to the best -of Leyden and Haerlem; yet, in general beauty, the city is superior to -either of these. - -We arrived just before nine, at which hour a bell rings to denote -the shutting of the larger gates; for the rules of a walled town are -observed here, though the fortifications could be of little other use -than to prevent a surprise by horse. The _Chateau d'Anvers_, at which -we lodged, is an excellent inn, with a landlord, who tells, that he has -walked sixty years in his own passage, and that he had the honour of -entertaining the Marquis of Granby thirteen times, during the war of -1756. Though the Dutch inns are generally unobjectionable, there is -an air of English completeness about this which the others do not reach. - -Utrecht is an university, but with as little appearance of such an -institution as Leyden. The students have no academical dress; and their -halls, which are used only for lectures and exercises, are formed -in the cloisters of the ancient cathedral. The chief sign of their -residence in the place is, that the householders, who have lodgings to -let, write upon a board, as is done at Leyden, _Cubicula locanda_. We -were shewn round the town by a member of the university, who carefully -avoided the halls; and we did not press to see them. - -There are still some traces remaining of the Bishopric, which was -once so powerful, as to excite the jealousy, or rather, perhaps, to -tempt the avarice of Charles the Fifth, who seized upon many of its -possessions. The use made of the remainder by the States General, -is scarcely more justifiable; for the prebends still subsist, and are -disposed of by sale to Lay Canons, who send delegates to the Provincial -States, as if they had ecclesiastical characters. - -The substantial remains of the Cathedral are one aisle, in which divine -service is performed, and a lofty, magnificent Gothic tower, that -stands apart from it. The ascent of this tower is one of the tasks -prescribed to strangers, and, laborious as it is, the view from the -summit sufficiently rewards them. A stone staircase, steep, narrow, and -winding, after passing several grated doors, leads into a floor, which -you hope is at the top, but which is little more than half way up. Here -the family of the belfryman fill several decently furnished apartments, -and shew the great bell, with several others, the noise of which, it -might be supposed, no human ears could bear, as they must, at the -distance of only three, or four yards. After resting a few minutes in -a room, the windows of which command, perhaps, a more extensive land -view than any other inhabited apartment in Europe, you begin the second -ascent by a staircase still narrower and steeper, and, when you seem -to be so weary as to be incapable of another step, half the horizon -suddenly bursts upon the view, and all your meditated complaints are -overborne by expressions of admiration. - -Towards the west, the prospect, after including the rich plain of -gardens near Utrecht, extends over the province of Holland, intersected -with water, speckled with towns, and finally bounded by the sea, the -mists of which hide the low shores from the sight. To the northward, -the Zuyder Zee spreads its haziness over Amsterdam and Naerden; but -from thence to the east, the spires of Amersfoort, Rhenen, Arnheim, -Nimeguen and many intermediate towns, are seen amongst the woods and -hills, that gradually rise towards Germany. South-ward, the more -mountainous district of Cleves and then the level parts of Guelderland -and Holland, with the windings of the Waal and the Leck, in which the -Rhine loses itself, complete a circle of probably more than sixty -miles diameter, that strains the sight from this tremendous steeple. -The almost perpendicular view into the streets of Utrecht affords -afterwards some relief to the eye, but increases any notions of danger, -you may have had from observing, that the open work Gothic parapet, -which alone prevents you from falling with dizziness, has suffered -something in the general decay of the church. - -While we were at the top, the bells struck; and, between the giddiness -communicated by the eye, and the stunning effect of a sound that seemed -to shake the steeple, we were compelled to conclude sooner than had -been intended this comprehensive and farewell prospect of Holland. - -The Mall, which is esteemed the chief ornament of Utrecht, is, perhaps, -the only avenue of the sort in Europe, still fit to be used for the -game that gives its name to them all. The several rows of noble trees -include, at the sides, roads and walks; but the centre is laid out -for the game of _Mall_, and, though not often used, is in perfect -preservation. It is divided so as to admit of two parties of players -at once, and the side-boards sufficiently restrain spectators. The -Mall in St. James's Park was kept in the same state, till 1752, when -the present great walk was formed over the part, which was separated -by similar side-boards. The length of that at Utrecht is nearly three -quarters of a mile. The luxuriance and loftiness of the trees preserve -a perspective much superior to that of St. James's, but in the -latter the whole breadth of the walks is greater, and the view is more -extensive, as well as more ornamented. - -This city, being a sort of capital to the neighbouring nobility, is -called the politest in the United Provinces, and certainly abounds, -more than the others, with the professions and trades, which are -subservient to splendour. One practice, observed in some degree, in all -the cities, is most frequent here; that of bows paid to all parties, -in which there are ladies, by every gentleman who passes. There are, -however, no plays, or other public amusements; and the festivities, -or ceremonies, by which other nations commemorate the happier events -in their history, are as unusual here as in the other parts of the -United Provinces, where there are more occasions to celebrate and fewer -celebrations than in most European countries. Music is very little -cultivated in any of the cities, and plays are to be seen only at -Amsterdam and the Hague, where German and Dutch pieces are acted upon -alternate nights. At Amsterdam, a French Opera-house has been shut up, -and, at the Hague, a _Comédie_, and the actors ordered to leave the -country. - -The ramparts of the city, which are high and command extensive -prospects, are rather emblems of the peacefulness, which it has long -enjoyed, than signs of any effectual resistance, prepared for an enemy. -They are in many places regularly planted with trees, which must be -old enough to have been spared, together with the Mall, by Louis the -Fourteenth; in others, pleasure houses, instead of batteries, have -been raised upon them. A few pieces of old cannon are planted for the -purpose of saluting the Prince of ORANGE, when he passes the city. - -Trechtschuyts go no further eastward than this place, so that we hired -a voiturier's carriage, a sort of curricle with a driver's box in -front, for the journey to Nimeguen. The price for thirty-eight, or -thirty-nine miles, was something more than a guinea and a half; the -horses were worth probably sixty pounds upon the spot, and were as able -as they were showy, or they could not have drawn us through the deep -sands, that cover one third of the road. - -We were now speedily quitting almost every thing, that is generally -characteristic of Dutch land. The pastures were intermixed with fields -of prosperous corn; the best houses were surrounded by high woods, and -the grounds were separated by hedges, instead of water, where any sort -of partition was used. Windmills were seldom seen, and those only for -corn. But these improvements in the appearance of the country were -accompanied by many symptoms of a diminished prosperity among the -people. In eight-and-thirty miles there was not one considerable -town; a space, which, in the province of Holland, would probably have -included three opulent cities, several extensive villages, and ranges -of mansions, erected by merchants and manufacturers. - -_Wyk de Duerstede_, the first town in the road, is distinguishable at -some distance, by the shattered tower of its church, a monument of -the desolation, spread by the Spaniards. The inhabitants, probably -intending, that it should remain as a lesson to posterity, have not -attempted to restore it, further than to place some stones over the -part filled by the clock. The body of the church and the remainder of -the tower are not deficient of Gothic dignity. The town itself consists -of one, or two wide streets, not well filled either with inhabitants, -or houses. - -The road here turns to the eastward and is led along the right bank of -the Leck, one of the branches of the Rhine, upon a raised mound, or -dique, sometimes twenty, or thirty feet, above the river on the one -side, and the plains, on the other. Small posts, each numbered, are -placed along this road, at unequal distances, for no other use, which -we could discover, than to enable the surveyors to report exactly -where the mound may want repairs. The carriage way is formed of a deep -sand, which we were very glad to leave, by crossing the river at a -ferry; though this road had given us a fine view of its course and of -some stately vessels, pressing against the stream, on their voyage to -Germany. - -On the other side, the road went further from the river, though we -continued to skirt it occasionally as far as a small ferry-house, -opposite to Rhenen, at which we dined, while the horses rested under a -shed, built over the road, as weigh-houses are at our turnpikes. Rhenen -is a walled town, built upon an ascent from the water, and appears to -have two, or three neat streets. - -Having dined in a room, where a table, large enough for twenty persons, -was placed, on one side, and a line of four, or five beds, covered -by one long curtain, was formed against the wainscot, on the other, -the voiturier clamoured, that the gates of Nimeguen would be shut -before we could get to them, and we soon began to cross the country -between the Leck and the Waal, another branch of the Rhine, which, in -Guelderland, divides itself into so many channels, that none can be -allowed the pre-eminence of retaining its name. Soon after reaching the -right bank of the Waal, the road affords a view of the distant towers -of Nimeguen, which appear there to be very important, standing upon a -brow, that seems to front the whole stream of the river. In the way, we -passed several noble estates, with mansions, built in the castellated -form, which James the First introduced into England, instead of the -more fortified residences; and there was a sufficient grandeur of -woods and avenues, to shew, that there might be parks, if the owners -had the taste to form them. Between the avenues, the gilded ornaments -of the roof, and the peaked coverings, placed, in summer, over the -chimneys, glittered to the light, and shewed the fantastic style of the -architecture, so exactly copied in Flemish landscapes of the sixteenth -and seventeenth centuries. - -As the sun declined and we drew near Nimeguen, the various colouring -of a scene more rich than extensive rendered its effect highly -interesting. The wide Waal on our left, reflecting the evening blush, -and a vessel whose full sails caught a yellow gleam from the west; the -ramparts and pointed roofs of Nimeguen rising over each other, just -tinted by the vapour that ascended from the bay below; the faint -and fainter blue of two ridges of hills in Germany retiring in the -distance, with the mellow green of nearer woods and meadows, formed a -combination of hues surprisingly gay and beautiful. But Nimeguen lost -much of its dignity on a nearer approach; for many of the towers, which -the treachery of fancy had painted at distance, changed into forms -less picturesque; and its situation, which a bold sweep of the Waal -had represented to be on a rising peninsula crowning the flood, was -found to be only on a steep beside it. The ramparts, however, the high -old tower of the citadel, the Belvidere, with the southern gate of the -town beneath, composed part of an interesting picture on the opposite -margin of the river. But there was very little time to observe it: the -driver saw the flying bridge, making its last voyage, for the night, -towards our shore, and likely to return in about twenty minutes; he, -therefore, drove furiously along the high bank of the river, and, -turning the angle of the two roads with a velocity, which would have -done honour to a Brentford postillion, entered that adjoining the first -half of the bridge, and shewed the directors of the other half, that we -were to be part of their cargo. - -This bridge, which is partly laid over boats and partly over two -barges, that float from the boats to the shore, is so divided, because -the stream is occasionally too rapid to permit an entire range of boats -between the two banks. It is thus, for one half, a bridge of boats, -and, for the other, a flying bridge; which last part is capable of -containing several carriages, and joins to the other so exactly as not -to occasion the least interruption. It is also railed for the safety -of foot passengers, of whom there are commonly twenty, or thirty. The -price for a carriage is something about twenty-pence, which the -tollmen carefully collect as soon as the demi-bridge has begun its -voyage. - - - - -NIMEGUEN - - -Has, towards the water, little other fortification than an ancient -brick wall, and a gate. Though it is a garrison town, and certainly -no trifling object, we were not detained at the gate by troublesome -ceremonies. The commander, affecting no unnecessary carefulness, is -satisfied with a copy of the report, which the innkeepers, in all the -towns, send to the Magistrates, of the names and conditions of their -guests. A printed paper is usually brought up, after supper, in which -you are asked to write your name, addition, residence, how long you -intend to stay, and to whom you are known in the province. We did not -shew a passport in Holland. - -The town has an abrupt but short elevation from the river, which -you ascend by a narrow but clean street, opening into a spacious -market-place. The great church and the guard-house are on one side of -this; from the other, a street runs to the eastern gate of the town, -formed in the old wall, beyond which commence the modern and strong -fortifications, that defend it, on the land side. At the eastern -extremity of the place, a small mall leads to the house, in which the -Prince of Orange resided, during the troubles of 1786; and, beyond -it, on a sudden promontory towards the river, stands a prospect -house, called the Belvidere, which, from its eastern and southern -windows, commands a long view into Germany, and to the north looks -over Guelderland. From this place all the fortifications, which are -very extensive, are plainly seen, and a military person might estimate -their strength. There are several forts and outworks, and, though -the ditch is pallisadoed instead of filled, the place must be capable -of a considerable defence, unless the besieging army should be masters -of the river and the opposite bank. There was formerly a fortress upon -this bank, which was often won and lost, during the sieges of Nimeguen, -but no remains of it are visible now. - -The town is classic ground to those, who venerate the efforts, by which -the provinces were rescued from the dominion of the Spaniards. It was -first attempted by SENGIUS, a Commander in the Earl of LEICESTER'S -army, who proposed to enter it, at night, from the river, through a -house, which was to be opened to him; but his troops by mistake entered -another, where a large company was collected, on occasion of a wedding, -and, being thus discovered to the garrison, great numbers of those, -already landed upon the beach, were put to the sword, or drowned in the -confusion of the retreat. An attempt by Prince Maurice to surprise it -was defeated by the failure of a _petard_, applied to one of the gates; -but it was soon after taken by a regular siege, carried on chiefly -from the other side of the river. This and the neighbouring fortress -of Grave were among the places, first taken by Louis the Fourteenth, -during his invasion, having been left without sufficient garrisons. - -The citadel, a remnant of the antient fortifications, is near the -eastern gate, which appears to be thought stronger than the others, -for, on this side, also is the arsenal. - -Nimeguen has been compared to Nottingham, which it resembles more in -situation than in structure, though many of the streets are steep, and -the windows of one range of houses sometimes overlook the chimnies of -another; the views also, as from some parts of Nottingham, are over a -green and extensive level, rising into distant hills; and here the -comparison ends. The houses are built entirely in the Dutch fashion, -with many coloured, painted fronts, terminating in peaked roofs; but -some decline of neatness may be observed by those who arrive here -from the province of Holland. The market-place, though gay and large, -cannot be compared with that of Nottingham, in extent, nor is the town -more than half the size of the latter, though it is said to contain -nearly fifty thousand inhabitants. From almost every part of it you -have, however, a glimpse of the surrounding landscape, which is more -extensive than that seen from Nottingham, and is adorned by the sweeps -of a river of much greater dignity than the Trent. - -We left Nimeguen, in the afternoon, with a voiturier, whose price, -according to the _ordonnatie_, was higher than if we had set out half -an hour sooner, upon the supposition that he could not return that -night. The road lies through part of the fortifications, concerning -which there can, of course, be no secrecy. It then enters an extensive -plain, and runs almost parallel to a range of heights, at the extremity -of which Nimeguen stands, and presents an appearance of still greater -strength and importance than when seen from the westward. - - * * * * * - -After a few miles, this road leaves the territories of the United -Provinces, and enters the Prussian duchy of Cleves, at a spot where -a mill is in one country, and the miller's house in the other. An -instance of difference between the conditions of the people in the two -countries was observable even at this passage of their boundary. Our -postillion bought, at the miller's, a loaf of black bread, such as is -not made in the Dutch provinces, and carried it away for the food of -his horses, which were thus initiated into some of the blessings of the -German peasantry. After another quarter of a mile you have more proofs -that you have entered the country of the King of Prussia. From almost -every cluster of huts barefooted children run out to beg, and ten or a -dozen stand at every gate, nearly throwing themselves under the wheels -to catch your money, which, every now and then, the bigger seize from -the less. - -Yet the land is not ill-cultivated. The distinction between the -culture of land in free and arbitrary countries, was, indeed, never -very apparent to us, who should have been ready enough to perceive it. -The great landholders know what should be done, and the peasantry are -directed to do it. The latter are, perhaps, supplied with stock, and -the grounds produce as much as elsewhere, though you may read, in the -looks and manners of the people, that very little of its productions is -for them. - -Approaching nearer to Cleves, we travelled on a ridge of heights, and -were once more cheared with the "pomp of groves." Between the branches -were delightful catches of extensive landscapes, varied with hills -clothed to their summits with wood, where frequently the distant spires -of a town peeped out most picturesquely. The open vales between were -chiefly spread with corn; and such a prospect of undulating ground, -and of hills tufted with the grandeur of forests, was inexpressibly -chearing to eyes fatigued by the long view of level countries. - -At a few miles from Cleves the road enters the Park and a close avenue -of noble plane-trees, when these prospects are, for a while, excluded. -The first opening is where, on one hand, a second avenue commences, -and, on the other, a sort of broad bay in the woods, which were -planted by Prince Maurice, includes an handsome house now converted -into an inn, which, owing to the pleasantness of the situation, and its -vicinity to a mineral spring, is much frequented in summer. A statue of -General Martin Schenck, of dark bronze, in complete armour, and with -the beaver down, is raised upon a lofty Ionic column, in the centre of -the avenue, before the house. Resting upon a lance, the figure seems -to look down upon the passenger, and to watch over the scene, with the -sternness of an ancient knight. It appears to be formed with remarkable -skill, and has an air more striking and grand than can be readily -described. - -The _orangerie_ of the palace is still preserved, together with a -semi-circular pavilion, in a recess of the woods, through which an -avenue of two miles leads you to - - - - -CLEVES. - - -This place, which, being the capital of a duchy, is entitled a City, -consists of some irregular streets, built upon the brow of a steep -hill. It is walled, but cannot be mentioned as fortified, having no -solid works. The houses are chiefly built of stone, and there is a -little of Dutch cleanliness; but the marks of decay are strongly -impressed upon them, and on the ancient walls. What little trade there -is, exists in retailing goods sent from Holland. The Dutch language and -coins are in circulation here, almost as much as the German. - -The established religion of the town is Protestant; but here is an -almost universal toleration, and the Catholics have several churches -and monasteries. Cleves has suffered a various fate in the sport of -war during many centuries, but has now little to distinguish it -except the beauty of its prospects, which extend into Guelderland and -the province of Holland, over a country enriched with woody hills and -vallies of corn and pasturage. - -Being convinced, in two or three hours, that there was nothing to -require a longer stay, we set out for Xanten, a town in the same -duchy, distant about eighteen miles. For nearly the whole of this -length the road lay through a broad avenue, which frequently entered a -forest of oak, fir, elm, and majestic plane-trees, and emerged from it -only to wind along its skirts. The views then opened over a country, -diversified with gentle hills, and ornamented by numberless spires -upon the heights, every small town having several convents. The castle -of Eltenberg, on the summit of a wooded mountain, was visible during -the whole of this stage and part of the next day's journey. Yet the -fewness, or the poverty, of the inhabitants appeared from our meeting -only one chaise, and two or three small carts, for eighteen miles of -the only high-road in the country. - -It was a fine evening in June, and the rich lights, thrown among -the forest glades, with the solitary calmness of the scene, and -the sereneness of the air, filled with scents from the woods, were -circumstances which persuaded to such tranquil rapture as Collins must -have felt when he had the happiness to address to Evening-- - - For when thy folding star, arising, shews - His paly circlet, at his warning lamp, - The fragrant hours and elves - Who slept in buds the day: - - And many a nymph, who wreaths her brows with sedge, - And sheds the fresh'ning dew, and, lovelier still, - The pensive pleasures sweet - Prepare thy shadowy car. - -A small half-way village, a stately convent, with its gardens, called -Marienbaum, founded in the 15th century by Maria, Duchess of Cleves, -and a few mud cottages of the woodcutters, were the only buildings -on the road: the foot passengers were two Prussian soldiers. It was -moonlight, and we became impatient to reach Xanten, long before our -driver could say, in a mixture of German and Dutch, that we were near -it. At length from the woods, that had concealed the town, a few lights -appeared over the walls, and dissipated some gloomy fancies about a -night to be passed in a forest. - - - - -XANTEN. - - -This is a small town, near the Rhine, without much appearance of -prosperity, but neater than most of the others around it. Several -narrow streets open into a wide and pleasant market-place, in the -centre of which an old but flourishing elm has its branches carefully -extended by a circular railing, to form an arbour over benches. A -cathedral, that proves the town to have been once more considerable, -is on the north side of this place; a fine building, which, shewn by -the moon of a summer midnight, when only the bell of the adjoining -convent calling the monks to prayers, and the waving of the aged tree, -were to be heard, presented a scene before the windows of our inn, that -fully recompensed for its want of accommodation. - -There were also humbler reasons towards contentment; for the people of -the house were extremely desirous to afford it; and the landlord was an -orator in French, of which and his address he was pleasantly vain. He -received us with an air of humour, mingled with his complaisance, and -hoped, that, "as _Monsieur_ was _Anglois_, he should surprise him with -his _vin extraordinaire_, all the Rhenish wine being adulterated by the -Dutch, before they sent it to England. His house could not be fine, -because he had little money; but he had an excellent cook, otherwise it -could not be expected that the prebendaries of the cathedral would dine -at it, every day, and become, as they were, _vraiment, Monsieur, gros -comme vous me voyez!_" - -There are in this small town several monasteries and one convent of -noble canonesses, of which last the members are few, and the revenues -very great. The interior of the cathedral is nearly as grand as the -outside; and mass is performed in it with more solemnity than in many, -which have larger institutions. - -We left Xanten, the next morning, in high spirits, expecting to reach -Cologne, which was little more than fifty miles distant, before night, -though the landlord and the postmaster hinted, that we should go no -further than Neuss. This was our first use of the German post, the -slowness of which, though it has been so often described, we had not -estimated. The day was intensely hot, and the road, unsheltered by -trees, lay over deep sands, that reflected the rays. The refreshing -forests of yesterday we now severely regretted, and watched impatiently -to catch a freer air from the summit of every hill on the way. The -postillion would permit his horses to do little more than walk, and -every step threw up heaps of dust into the chaise. It had been so -often said by travellers, that money has as little effect in such -cases as intreaties, or threats, that we supposed this slowness -irremediable, which was really intended only to produce an offer of -what we would willingly have given. - - - - -RHEINBERG. - - -In something more than three hours, we reached Rheinberg, distant about -nine miles; a place often mentioned in the military history of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and which we had supposed would -at least gratify us by the shew of magnificent ruins, together with -some remains of its former importance. It is a wretched place of one -dirty street, and three or four hundred mean houses, surrounded by a -decayed wall that never was grand, and half filled by inhabitants, -whose indolence, while it is probably more to be pitied than blamed, -accounts for the sullenness and wretchedness of their appearance. Not -one symptom of labour, or comfort, was to be perceived in the whole -town. The men seemed, for the most part, to be standing at their doors, -in unbuckled shoes and woollen caps. What few women we saw were brown, -without the appearance of health, which their leanness and dirtiness -prevented. Some small shops of hucksters' wares were the only signs of -trade. - -The inn, that seemed to be the best, was such as might be expected in a -remote village, in a cross road in England. The landlord was standing -before the door in his cap, and remained there some time after we -had found the way into a sitting room, and from thence, for want of -attendance, into a kitchen; where two women, without stockings, were -watching over some sort of cookery in earthen jugs. We were supplied, -at length, with bread, butter and sour wine, and did not suffer -ourselves to consider this as any specimen of German towns, because -Rheinberg was not a station of the post; a delusion, the spirit of -which continued through several weeks, for we were always finding -reasons to believe, that the wretchedness of present places and persons -was produced by some circumstances, which would not operate in other -districts. - -This is the condition of a town, which, in the sixteenth and -seventeenth centuries, was thought important enough to be five times -attacked by large armies. FARNESE, the Spanish commander, was diverted -from his attempt upon it, by the necessity of relieving Zutphen, then -besieged by the Earl of Leicester: in 1589, the Marquis of Varambon -invested it, for the Spaniards, by order of the Prince of Parma; -but it was relieved by our Colonel Vere, who, after a long battle, -completely defeated the Spanish army. In 1599, when it was attacked -by Mendoza, a magazine caught fire. The governor, his family, and a -part of the garrison were buried in the ruins of a tower, and the -explosion sunk several vessels in the Rhine; after which, the remainder -of the garrison surrendered the place. The Prince of Orange retook it -in 1633. Four years afterwards, the Spaniards attempted to surprise it -in the night; but the Deputy Governor and others, who perceived that -the garrison could not be immediately collected, passed the walls, -and, pretending to be deserters, mingled with the enemy, whom they -persuaded to delay the attack for a few minutes. The troops within -were in the mean time prepared for their defence, and succeeded in -it; but the Governor, with two officers and fifteen soldiers who had -accompanied him, being discovered, were killed. All these contests were -for a place not belonging to either party, being in the electorate of -Cologne, but which was valuable to both, for its neighbourhood to their -frontiers. - -Beyond Rheinberg, our prospects were extensive, but not so woody, or -so rich as those of the day before, and few villages enlivened the -landscape. Open corn lands, intermixed with fields of turnips, spread -to a considerable distance, on both sides; on the east, the high ridges -of the Westphalian mountains shut up the scene. The Rhine, which -frequently swept near the road, shewed a broad surface, though shrunk -within its sandy shores by the dryness of the season. Not a single -vessel animated its current, which was here tame and smooth, though -often interrupted by sands, that rose above its level. - - - - -HOOGSTRASS. - - -The next town was Hoogstrass, a post station, fifteen miles from -Xanten, of which we saw little more than the inn, the other part of -this small place being out of the road. A large house, which might -have been easily made convenient, and was really not without plenty, -confirmed our notion, that, at the post stages, there would always -be some accommodation. We dined here, and were well attended. The -landlord, a young man who had served in the army of the country, -and appeared by his dress to have gained some promotion, was very -industrious in the house, during this interval of his other employments. - -The next stage was of eighteen miles, which make a German post and an -half; and, during this space, we passed by only one town, Ordingen, -or Urdingen, the greatest part of which spread between the road and the -Rhine. - -Towards evening, the country became more woody, and the slender -spires of convents frequently appeared, sheltered in their groves and -surrounded by corn lands of their own domain. One of these, nearer -to the road, was a noble mansion, and, with its courts, offices and -gardens, spread over a considerable space. A summer-house, built over -the garden wall, had no windows towards the road, but there were -several small apertures, which looked upon it and beyond to a large -tract of inclosed wood, the property of the convent. - - - - -NEUSS. - - -Soon after sun-set, we came to Neuss, which, as it is a post town, and -was mentioned as far off as Xanten, we had been sure would afford a -comfortable lodging, whether there were any vestiges, or not, of its -ancient and modern history. The view of it, at some little distance, -did not altogether contradict this notion, for it stands upon a gentle -ascent, and the spires of several convents might justly give ideas of -a considerable town to those, who had not learned how slightly such -symptoms are to be attended to in Germany. - -On each side of the gate, cannon balls of various sizes remain in the -walls. Within, you enter immediately into a close street of high, -but dirty stone houses, from which you expect to escape presently, -supposing it to be only some wretched quarter, appropriated to -disease and misfortune. You see no passengers, but, at the door of -every house, an haggard group of men and women stare upon you with -looks of hungry rage, rather than curiosity, and their gaunt figures -excite, at first, more fear than pity. Continuing to look for the -better quarter, and to pass between houses, that seem to have been left -after a siege and never entered since, the other gate of the town at -length appears, which you would rather pass at midnight than stop at -any place yet perceived. Within a small distance of the gate, there -is, however, a house with a wider front, and windows of unshattered -glass and walls not quite as black as the others, which is known to -be the inn only because the driver stops there, for, according to the -etiquette of sullenness in Germany, the people of the house make no -shew of receiving you. - -If it had not already appeared, that there was no other inn, you might -learn it from the manners of the two hostesses and their servants. -Some sort of accommodation is, however, to be had; and those, who have -been longer from the civilities and assiduities of similar places in -England, may, by more submission and more patience, obtain it sooner -than we did. By these means they may reduce all their difficulties into -one, that of determining whether the windows shall be open or shut; -whether they will endure the closeness of the rooms, or will admit air, -loaded with the feculence of putrid kennels, that stagnate along the -whole town. - -This is the _Novesium_ of Tacitus, the entrance of the thirteenth -legion into which he relates, at a time when the Rhine, _incognita illi -cœlo siccitate_, became _vix navium patiens_, and which VOCULA was soon -after compelled to surrender by the treachery of other leaders and -the corruption of his army, whom he addressed, just before his murder, -in the fine speech, beginning, "_Nunquam apud vos verba feci, aut pro -vobis solicitior, aut pro me securior_"; a passage so near to the -_cunctisque timentem, securumque sui_, by which LUCAN describes CATO, -that it must be supposed to have been inspired by it. - -This place stood a siege, for twelve months, against 60,000 men, -commanded by CHARLES the BOLD, Duke of Burgundy, and succeeded in its -resistance. But, in 1586, when it held out for GEBHERT DE TRUSCHES, an -Elector of Cologne, expelled by his Chapter, for having married, it -was the scene of a dreadful calamity. FARNESE, the Spanish General, -who had just taken Venlo, marched against it with an army, enraged -at having lost the plunder of that place by a capitulation. When the -inhabitants of Neuss were upon the point of surrendering it, upon -similar terms, the army, resolving not to lose another prey of blood -and gold, rushed to the assault, set fire to the place, and murdered -all the inhabitants, except a few women and children, who took refuge -in two churches, which alone were saved from the flames. - -When the first shock of the surprise, indignation and pity, excited -by the mention of such events, is overcome, we are, of course, -anxious to ascertain whether the perpetrators of them were previously -distinguished by a voluntary entrance into situations, that could be -supposed to mark their characters. This was the army of Philip the -Second. The soldiers were probably, for the most part, forced into the -service. The officers, of whom only two are related to have opposed the -massacre, could not have been so. - -What was then the previous distinction of the officers of Philip the -Second? But it is not proper to enter into a discussion here of the -nature of their employment. - -Neuss was rebuilt, on the same spot; the situation being convenient for -an intercourse with the eastern shore of the Rhine, especially with -Dusseldorff, to which it is nearly opposite. The ancient walls were -partly restored by the French, in 1602. One of the churches, spared by -the Spaniards, was founded by a daughter of CHARLEMAGNE, in the ninth -century, and is now attached to the Chapter of Noble Ladies of St. -Quirin; besides which there are a Chapter of Canons, and five or six -convents in the place. - - - - -COLOGNE. - - -From Neuss hither we passed through a deep, sandy road, that sometimes -wound near the Rhine, the shores of which were yet low and the water -tame and shallow. There were no vessels upon it, to give one ideas -either of the commerce, or the population of its banks. - -The country, for the greater part of twenty miles, was a flat of corn -lands; but, within a short distance of Cologne, a gentle rise affords a -view of the whole city, whose numerous towers and steeples had before -appeared, and of the extensive plains, that spread round it. In the -southern perspective of these, at the distance of about eight leagues, -rise the fantastic forms of what are called the Seven Mountains; -westward, are the cultivated hills, that extend towards Flanders; and, -eastward, over the Rhine, the distant mountains, that run through -several countries of interior Germany. Over the wild and gigantic -features of the Seven Mountains dark thunder mists soon spread an awful -obscurity, and heightened the expectation, which this glimpse of them -had awakened, concerning the scenery we were approaching. - -The appearance of Cologne, at the distance of one, or two miles, is not -inferior to the conception, which a traveller may have already formed -of one of the capitals of Germany, should his mind have obeyed that -almost universal illusion of fancy, which dresses up the images of -places unseen, as soon as much expectation, or attention is directed -towards them. The air above is crowded with the towers and spires -of churches and convents, among which the cathedral, with its huge, -unfinished mass, has a striking appearance. The walls are also high -enough to be observed, and their whole inclosure seems, at a distance, -to be thickly filled with buildings. - -We should have known ourselves to be in the neighbourhood of some -place larger than usual, from the sight of two, or three carriages, at -once, on the road; nearly the first we had seen in Germany. There is -besides some shew of labour in the adjoining villages; but the sallow -countenances and miserable air of the people prove, that it is not a -labour beneficial to them. The houses are only the desolated homes of -these villagers; for there is not one that can be supposed to belong -to any prosperous inhabitant of the city, or to afford the coveted -stillness, in which the active find an occasional reward, and the idle -a perpetual misery. - -A bridge over a dry fossé leads to the northern gate, on each side -of which a small modern battery defends the ancient walls. The city -is not fortified, according to any present sense of the term, but is -surrounded by these walls and by a ditch, of which the latter, near the -northern gate, serves as a sort of kitchen garden to the inhabitants. - -Before passing the inner gate, a soldier demanded our names, and we -shewed our passport, for the first time; but, as the inquisitor did -not understand French, in which language passports from England are -written, it was handed to his comrades, who formed a circle about our -chaise, and began, with leaden looks, to spell over the paper. Some -talked, in the mean time, of examining the baggage; and the money, -which we gave to prevent this, being in various pieces and in Prussian -coin, which is not perfectly understood here, the whole party turned -from the passport, counting and estimating the money in the hand of -their collector, as openly as if it had been a legal tribute. When this -was done and they had heard, with surprise, that we had not determined -where to lodge, being inclined to take the pleasantest inn, we wrote -our names in the corporal's dirty book, and were allowed to drive, -under a dark tower, into the city. - -Instantly, the narrow street, gloomy houses, stagnant kennels and -wretchedly looking people reminded us of the horrors of Neuss. The -lower windows of these prison-like houses are so strongly barricadoed, -that we had supposed the first two, or three, to be really parts of -a gaol; but it soon appeared, that this profusion of heavy iron work -was intended to exclude, not to confine, robbers. A succession of -narrow streets, in which the largest houses were not less disgusting -than the others for the filthiness of their windows, doorways and -massy walls, continued through half the city. In one of these streets, -or lanes, the postillion stopped at the door of an inn, which he -said was the best; but the suffocating air of the street rendered it -unnecessary to enquire, whether, contrary to appearances, there could -be any accommodation within, and, as we had read of many squares, -or market-places, he was desired to stop at an inn, situated in one -of these. Thus we came to the Hotel de Prague, a large straggling -building, said to be not worse than the others, for wanting half its -furniture, and probably superior to them, by having a landlord of -better than German civility. - -Having counted from our windows the spires of ten, or twelve churches, -or convents, we were at leisure to walk farther into the city, and to -look for the spacious squares, neat streets, noble public buildings -and handsome houses, which there could be no doubt must be found in an -Imperial and Electoral city, seated on the Rhine, at a point where the -chief roads from Holland and Flanders join those of Germany, treated -by all writers as a considerable place, and evidently by its situation -capable of becoming a sort of _emporium_ for the three countries. The -spot, into which our inn opened, though a parallelogram of considerable -extent, bordered by lime trees, we passed quickly through, perceiving, -that the houses on all its sides were mean buildings, and therefore -such as could not deserve the attention in the Imperial and Electoral -city of Cologne. There are streets from each angle of this place, and -we pursued them all in their turn, narrow, winding and dirty as they -are, pestilent with kennels, gloomy from the height and blackness of -the houses, unadorned by any public buildings, except the churches, -that were grand, or by one private dwelling, that appeared to be -clean, with little shew of traffic and less of passengers, either -busy, or gay, till we saw them ending in other streets still worse, or -concluded by the gates of the city. One of them, indeed, led through -a market-place, in which the air is free from the feculence of the -streets, but which is inferior to the other opening in space, and not -better surrounded by buildings. - -"These diminutive observations seem to take away something from the -dignity of writing, and therefore are never communicated, but with -hesitation, and a little fear of abasement and contempt."[2] And it -is not only because they take away something from the dignity of -writing, that such observations are withheld. To be thought capable -of commanding more pleasures and preventing more inconveniences than -others is a too general passport to respect; and, in the ordinary -affairs of life, for one, that will shew somewhat less prosperity than -he has, in order to try who will really respect him, thousands exert -themselves to assume an appearance of more, which they might know can -procure only the mockery of esteem for themselves, and the reality of -it for their supposed conditions. Authors are not always free from a -willingness to receive the fallacious sort of respect, that attaches -to accidental circumstances, for the real sort, of which it would be -more reasonable to be proud. A man, relating part of the history of -his life, which is always necessarily done by a writer of travels, -does not choose to shew that his course could lie through any scenes -deficient of delights; or that, if it did, he was not enough elevated -by his friends, importance, fortune, fame, or business, to be incapable -of observing them minutely. The curiosities of cabinets and of courts -are, therefore, exactly described, and as much of every occurrence as -does not shew the relater moving in any of the plainer walks of life; -but the difference between the stock of physical comforts in different -countries, the character of conditions, if the phrase may be used, such -as it appears in the ordinary circumstances of residence, dress, food, -cleanliness, opportunities of relaxation; in short, the information, -which all may gain, is sometimes left to be gained by all, not from the -book, but from travel. A writer, issuing into the world, makes up -what he mistakes for his best appearance, and is continually telling -his happiness, or shewing his good-humour, as people in a promenade -always smile, and always look round to observe whether they are seen -smiling. The politest salutation of the Chinese, when they meet, is, -"Sir, prosperity is painted on your countenance;" or, "your whole air -announces your felicity;" and the writers of travels, especially since -the censure thrown upon SMOLLET, seem to provide, that their prosperity -shall be painted on their volumes, and all their observations announce -their felicity. - -[2] Dr. Samuel Johnson. - -Cologne, though it bears the name of the Electorate, by which it is -surrounded, is an imperial city; and the Elector, as to temporal -affairs, has very little jurisdiction within it. The government has an -affectation of being formed upon the model of Republican Rome; a form -certainly not worthy of imitation, but which is as much disgraced -by this burlesque of it, as ancient statues are by the gilding and -the wigs, with which they are said to be sometimes arrayed by modern -hands. There is a senate of forty-nine persons, who, being returned -at different times of the year, are partly nominated by the remaining -members, and partly chosen by twenty-two tribes of burgesses, or -rather by so many companies of traders. Of six burgomasters, two are -in office every third year, and, when these appear in public, they -are preceded by LICTORS, bearing _fasces_, sur-mounted by their _own -arms_! Each of the tribes, or companies, has a President, and the -twenty-two Presidents form a Council, which is authorised to enquire -into the conduct of the Senate: but the humbleness of the burgesses -in their individual condition has virtually abolished all this scheme -of a political constitution. Without some of the intelligence and -personal independence, which are but little consistent with the general -poverty and indolence of German traders, nothing but the forms of any -constitution can be preserved, long after the virtual destruction of it -has been meditated by those in a better condition. The greater part of -these companies of traders having, in fact, no trade which can place -them much above the rank of menial servants to their rich customers, -the design, that their Council shall check the Senate, and the Senate -direct the Burgomasters, has now, of course, little effect. And this, -or a still humbler condition, is that of several cities in Germany, -called free and independent, in which the neighbouring sovereigns have -scarcely less authority, though with something more of circumstance, -than in their own dominions. - -The constitution of Cologne permits, indeed, some direct interference -of the Elector; for the Tribunal of Appeal, which is the supreme -court of law, is nominated by him: he has otherwise no direct power -within the city; and, being forbidden to reside there more than three -days successively, he does not even retain a palace, but is contented -with a suite of apartments, reserved for his use at an inn. That this -exclusion is no punishment, those, who have ever passed two days -at Cologne, will admit; and it can tend very little to lessen his -influence, for the greatest part of his personal expenditure must -reach the merchants of the place; and the officers of several of his -territorial jurisdictions make part of the inhabitants. His residences, -with which he is remarkably well provided, are at Bonn; at Bruhl, a -palace between Cologne and that place; at Poppelsdorff, which is beyond -it; at Herzogs Freud, an hunting seat; and in Munster, of which he is -the Bishop. - -The duties of customs and excise are imposed by the magistrates of -the city, and these enable them to pay their contributions to the -Germanic fund; for, though such cities are formally independent of the -neighbouring princes and nobility, they are not so of the general laws -or expences of the empire, in the Diet of which they have some small -share, forty-nine cities being allowed to send two representatives, -and thus to have two votes out of an hundred and thirty-six. These -duties, of both sorts, are very high at Cologne; and the first form -a considerable part of the interruptions, which all the States upon -the Rhine give to the commerce of that river. Here also commodities, -intended to be carried beyond the city by water, must be re-shipped; -for, in order to provide cargoes for the boatmen of the place, vessels -from the lower parts of the Rhine are not allowed to ascend beyond -Cologne, and those from the higher parts cannot descend it farther. -They may, indeed, reload with other cargoes for their return; and, -as they constantly do so, the Cologne boatmen are not much benefited -by the regulation; but the transfer of the goods employs some hands, -subjects them better to the inspection of the customhouse officers, -and makes it necessary for the merchants of places, on both sides, -trading with each other, to have intermediate correspondents here. -Yet, notwithstanding all this aggression upon the freedom of trade, -Cologne is less considerable as a port, than some Dutch towns, never -mentioned in a book, and is inferior, perhaps, to half the minor -seaports in England. We could not find more than thirty vessels of -burthen against the quay, all mean and ill-built, except the Dutch, -which are very large, and, being constructed purposely for a tedious -navigation, contain apartments upon the deck for the family of the -skipper, well furnished, and so commodious as to have four or five -sashed windows on each side, generally gay with flower-pots. Little -flower-gardens, too, sometimes formed upon the roof of the cabin, -increase the domestic comforts of the skipper; and the neatness of his -vessel can, perhaps, be equalled only by that of a Dutch house. In a -time of perfect peace, there is no doubt more traffic; but, from what -we saw of the general means and occasions of commerce in Germany, we -cannot suppose it to be much reduced by war. Wealthy and commercial -countries may be injured immensely by making war either for Germany -or against it; by too much friendship or too much enmity; but Germany -itself cannot be proportionately injured with them, except when it is -the scene of actual violence. Englishmen, who feel, as they always -must, the love of their own country much increased by the view of -others, should be induced, at every step, to wish, that there may be -as little political intercourse as possible, either of friendship or -enmity, between the blessings of their Island and the wretchedness of -the Continent. - -Our inn had formerly been a convent, and was in a part of the town -where such societies are more numerous than elsewhere. At five -o'clock, on the Sunday after our arrival, the bells of churches -and convents began to sound on all sides, and there was scarcely -any entire intermission of them till evening. The places of public -amusement, chiefly a sort of tea-gardens, were then set open, and, -in many streets, the sound of music and dancing was heard almost as -plainly as that of the bells had been before; a disgusting excess of -licentiousness, which appeared in other instances, for we heard, at the -same time, the voices of a choir on one side of the street, and the -noise of a billiard table on the other. Near the inn, this contrast -was more observable. While the strains of revelry arose from an -adjoining garden, into which our windows opened, a pause in the music -allowed us to catch some notes of the vesper service, performing in a -convent of the order of Clarisse, only three or four doors beyond. Of -the severe rules of this society we had been told in the morning. The -members take a vow, not only to renounce the world, but their dearest -friends, and are never after permitted to see even their fathers or -mothers, though they may sometimes converse with the latter from behind -a curtain. And, lest some lingering remains of filial affection should -tempt an unhappy nun to lift the veil of separation between herself -and her mother, she is not allowed to speak even with her, but in the -presence of the abbess. Accounts of such horrible perversions of human -reason make the blood thrill and the teeth chatter. Their fathers they -can never speak to, for no man is suffered to be in any part of -the convent used by the sisterhood, nor, indeed, is admitted beyond -the gate, except when there is a necessity for repairs, when all the -votaries of the order are previously secluded. It is not easily, that -a cautious mind becomes convinced of the existence of such severe -orders; when it does, astonishment at the artificial miseries, which -the ingenuity of human beings forms for themselves by seclusion, is as -boundless as at the other miseries, with which the most trivial vanity -and envy so frequently pollute the intercourses of social life. The -poor nuns, thus nearly entombed during their lives, are, after death, -tied upon a board, in the clothes they die in, and, with only their -veils thrown over the face, are buried in the garden of the convent. - -During this day, Trinity Sunday, processions were passing on all -sides, most of them attended by some sort of martial music. Many -of the parishes, of which there are nineteen, paraded with their -officers; and the burgesses, who are distributed into eight corps, -under a supposition that they could and would defend the city, if -it was attacked, presented their captains at the churches. The host -accompanied all these processions. A party of the city guards followed, -and forty or fifty persons out of uniform, the representatives probably -of the burgesses, who are about six thousand, succeeded. Besides the -guards, there was only one man in uniform, who, in the burlesque dress -of a drum-major, entertained the populace by a kind of extravagant -marching dance, in the middle of the procession. Our companion would -not tell us that this was the captain. - -The cathedral, though unfinished, is conspicuous, amongst a great -number of churches, for the dignity of some detached features, that -shew part of the vast design formed for the whole. It was begun, -in 1248, by the Elector Conrad, who is related, in an hexameter -inscription over a gate, to have laid the first stone himself. In -1320, the choir was finished, and the workmen continued to be employed -upon the other parts in 1499, when of two towers, destined to be 580 -feet above the roof, one had risen 21 feet, and the other 150 feet, -according to the measurement mentioned in a printed description. We -did not learn at what period the design of completing the edifice was -abandoned; but the original founder lived to see all the treasures -expended, which he had collected for the purpose. In its present state, -the inequality of its vast towers renders it a striking object at a -considerable distance; and, from the large unfilled area around it, -the magnificence of its Gothic architecture, especially of some parts, -which have not been joined to the rest, and appear to be the ruined -remains, rather than the commencement of a work, is viewed with awful -delight. - -In the interior of the cathedral, a fine choir leads to an altar of -black marble, raised above several steps, which, being free from the -incongruous ornaments usual in Romish churches, is left to impress -the mind by its majestic plainness. The tall painted windows above, -of which there are six, are superior in richness of colouring and -design to any we ever saw; beyond even those in the Chapter-house -at York, and most resembling the very fine ones in the cathedral of -Canterbury. The nave is deformed by a low wooden roof, which appears to -have been intended only as a temporary covering, and should certainly -be succeeded by one of equal dignity to the vast columns placed for -its support, whether the other parts of the original design can ever -be completed or not. - -By some accident we did not see the tomb of the three kings of -Jerusalem, whose bodies are affirmed to have been brought here from -Milan in 1162, when the latter city was destroyed by the Emperor -Frederic Barbarossa. Their boasted treasures of golden crowns and -diamonds pass, of course, without our estimation. - -A description of the churches in Cologne, set out with good antiquarian -minuteness, would fill volumes. The whole number of churches, chapters -and chapels, which last are by far the most numerous, is not less than -eighty, and none are without an history of two or three centuries. -They are all opened on Sundays; and we can believe, that the city may -contain, as is asserted, 40,000 souls, for nearly all that we saw were -well attended. In one, indeed, the congregation consisted only of two -or three females, kneeling at a great distance from the altar, with an -appearance of the utmost intentness upon the service, and abstraction -from the noise of the processions, that could be easily heard within. -They were entirely covered with a loose black drapery; whether for -penance, or not, we did not hear. In the cathedral, a figure in the -same attitude was rendered more interesting by her situation beneath -the broken arches and shattered fret-work of a painted window, through -which the rays of the sun scarcely penetrated to break the shade she -had chosen. - -Several of the chapels are not much larger than an ordinary apartment, -but they are higher, that the nuns of some adjoining convent may have a -gallery, where, veiled from observation by a lawn curtain, their voices -often mingle sweetly with the choir. There are thirty-nine convents of -women and nineteen of men, which are supposed to contain about fifteen -hundred persons. The chapters, of which some are noble and extremely -opulent, support nearly four hundred more; and there are said to be, -upon the whole, between two and three thousand persons, under religious -denominations, in Cologne. Walls of convents and their gardens appear -in every street, but do not attract notice, unless, as frequently -happens, their bell sounds while you are passing. Some of their female -inhabitants may be seen in various parts of the city, for there is an -order, the members of which are employed, by rotation, in teaching -children and attending the sick. Those of the noble chapters are -little more confined than if they were with their own families, being -permitted to visit their friends, to appear at balls and promenades, -to wear what dresses they please, except when they chaunt in the -choir, and to quit the chapter, if the offer of an acceptable marriage -induces their families to authorise it; but their own admission into -the chapter proves them to be noble by sixteen quarterings, or four -generations, and the offer must be from a person of equal rank, or -their descendants could not be received into similar chapters; an -important circumstance in the affairs of the German noblesse. - -Some of these ladies we saw in the church of their convent. Their -habits were remarkably graceful; robes of lawn and black silk flowed -from the shoulder, whence a quilled ruff, somewhat resembling that -of Queen Elizabeth's time, spread round the neck. The hair was in -curls, without powder, and in the English fashion. Their voices were -peculiarly sweet, and they sung the responses with a kind of plaintive -tenderness, that was extremely interesting. - -The Jesuits' church is one of the grandest in Cologne, and has the -greatest display of paintings over its numerous altars, as well as of -marble pillars. The churches of the chapters are, for the most part, -very large, and endowed with the richest ornaments, which are, -however, not shewn to the public, except upon days of fête. We do not -remember to have seen that of the chapter of St. Ursula, where heads -and other relics are said to be handed to you from shelves, like books -in a library; nor that of the convent of Jacobins, where some MSS. and -other effects of Albert the Great, bishop of Ratisbon, are among the -treasures of the monks. - -Opposite to the Jesuits' church was an hospital for wounded soldiers, -several of whom were walking in the court yard before it, half-clothed -in dirty woollen, through which the bare arms of many appeared. -Sickness and neglect had subdued all the symptoms of a soldier; and -it was impossible to distinguish the wounded French from the others, -though we were assured that several of that nation were in the crowd. -The windows of the hospital were filled with figures still more -wretched. There was a large assemblage of spectators, who looked as if -they were astonished to see, that war is compounded of something else, -besides the glories, of which it is so easy to be informed. - -The soldiery of Cologne are under the command of the magistrates, and -are employed only within the gates of the city. The whole body does not -exceed an hundred and fifty, whom we saw reviewed by their colonel, in -the place before the Hotel de Prague. The uniform is red, faced with -white. The men wear whiskers, and affect an air of ferocity, but appear -to be mostly invalids, who have grown old in their guard-houses. - -Protestants, though protected in their persons, are not allowed the -exercise of their religion within the walls of the city, but have a -chapel in a village on the other side of the Rhine. As some of the -chief merchants, and those who are most useful to the inhabitants, -are of the reformed church, they ventured lately to request that they -might have a place of worship within the city; but they received the -common answer, which opposes all sort of improvement, religious or -civil, that, though the privilege in itself might be justly required, -it could not be granted, because they would then think of asking -something more. - -The government of Cologne in ecclesiastical affairs is with the -Elector, as archbishop, and the Chapter as his council. In civil -matters, though the city constitution is of little effect, the real -power is not so constantly with him as might be supposed; those, who -have influence, being sometimes out of his interest. Conversation, -as we were told, was scarcely less free than in Holland, where there -is justly no opposition to any opinion, however improper, or absurd, -except from the reason of those, who hear it. On that account, and -because of its easy intercourse with Brussels and Spa, this city -is somewhat the resort of strangers, by whom such conversation is, -perhaps, chiefly carried on; but those must come from very wretched -countries who can find pleasure in a residence at Cologne. - -Amongst the public buildings must be reckoned the Theatre, of which we -did not see the inside, there being no performance, during our stay, -except on Sunday. This, it seems, may be opened, without offence to -the Magistrates, though a protestant church may not. It stands in a -row of small houses, from which it is distinguished only by a painted -front, once tawdry and now dirty, with the inscription, "_Musis -Gratiisque decentibus_." The Town-house is an awkward and irregular -stone building. The arsenal, which is in one of the narrowest streets, -we should have passed, without notice, if it had not been pointed out -to us. As a building, it is nothing more than such as might be formed -out of four or five of the plainest houses laid into one. Its contents -are said to be chiefly antient arms, of various fashions and sizes, not -very proper for modern use. - - - - -BONN. - - -After a stay of nearly three tedious days, we left Cologne for Bonn, -passing through an avenue of limes, which extends from one place -to the other, without interruption, except where there is a small -half way village. The distance is not less than eighteen miles, and -the diversified culture of the plains, through which it passes, is -unusually grateful to the eye, after the dirty buildings of Cologne -and the long uniformity of corn lands in the approach to it. Vines -cover a great part of these plains, and are here first seen in -Germany, except, indeed, within the walls of Cologne itself, which -contain many large inclosures, converted from gardens and orchards -into well sheltered vineyards. The vines reminded us of English hop -plants, being set, like them, in rows, and led round poles to various -heights, though all less than that of hops. Corn, fruit or herbs were -frequently growing between the rows, whose light green foliage mingled -beautifully with yellow wheat and larger patches of garden plantations, -that spread, without any inclosures, to the sweeping Rhine, on the -left. Beyond, appeared the blue ridges of Westphalian mountains. On the -right, the plains extend to a chain of lower and less distant hills, -whose skirts are covered with vines and summits darkened with thick -woods. - -The Elector's palace of Bruhl is on the right hand of the road, at -no great distance, but we were not told, till afterwards, of the -magnificent architecture and furniture, which ought to have attracted -our curiosity. - -On a green and circular hill, near the Rhine, stands the Benedictine -abbey of Siegbourg, one of the first picturesque objects of the rich -approach to Bonn; and, further on, the castle-like towers of a convent -of noble ladies; both societies celebrated for their wealth and the -pleasantness of their situations, which command extensive prospects -over the country, on each side of the river. As we drew near Bonn, we -frequently caught, between the trees of the avenue, imperfect, but -awakening glimpses of the pointed mountains beyond; contrasted with -the solemn grandeur of which was the beauty of a round woody hill, -apparently separated from them only by the Rhine and crowned with the -spire of a comely convent. Bonn, with tall slender steeples and the -trees of its ramparts, thus backed by sublime mountains, looks well, -as you approach it from Cologne, though neither its noble palace, nor -the Rhine, which washes its walls, are seen from hence. We were asked -our names at the gate, but had no trouble about passports, or baggage. -A long and narrow street leads from thence to the market-place, not -disgusting you either with the gloom, or the dirt of Cologne, though -mean houses are abundantly intermixed with the others, and the best are -far from admirable. The _physiognomy of the place_, if one may use the -expression, is wholesome, though humble. By the recommendation of a -Dutch merchant, we went to an inn in another street, branching from the -market-place; and found it the cleanest, since we had left Holland. - -Bonn may be called the political capital of the country, the Elector's -Court being held only there; and, what would not be expected, this has -importance enough to command the residence of an agent from almost -every Power in Europe. The present Elector being the uncle of the -Emperor, this attention is, perhaps, partly paid, with the view, that -it may be felt at the Court of Vienna. Even Russia is not unrepresented -in this miniature State. - -The Elector's palace is, in point of grandeur, much better fitted to -be the scene of diplomatic ceremonies, than those of many greater -Sovereigns; and it is fitted also for better than diplomatic purposes, -being placed before some of the most striking of nature's features, -of which it is nearly as worthy an ornament as art can make. It is -seated on the western bank of the Rhine, the general course of which it -fronts, though it forms a considerable angle with the part immediately -nearest. The first emotion, on perceiving it, being that of admiration, -at its vastness, the wonder is, of course, equal, with which you -discover, that it is only part of a greater design. It consists of a -centre and an eastern wing, which are completed, and of a western wing, -of which not half is yet raised. The extent from east to west is so -great, that, if we had enquired the measurement, we should have been -but little assisted in giving an idea of the spectacle, exhibited by so -immense a building. - -It is of stone, of an architecture, perhaps, not adequate to the -grandeur of its extent, but which fills no part with unsuitable, or -inelegant ornaments. Along the whole garden front, which is the chief, -a broad terrace supports a promenade and an orangery of noble trees, -occasionally refreshed by fountains, that, ornamented with statues, -rise from marble basons. An arcade through the centre of the palace -leads to this terrace, from whence the prospect is strikingly beautiful -and sublime. The eye passes over the green lawn of the garden and a -tract of level country to the groupe, called the Seven Mountains, -broken, rocky and abrupt towards their summits, yet sweeping finely -near their bases, and uniting with the plains by long and gradual -descents, that spread round many miles. The nearest is about a league -and a half off. We saw them under the cloudless sky of June, invested -with the mistiness of heat, which softening their rocky points, and -half veiling their recesses, left much for the imagination to supply, -and gave them an aërial appearance, a faint tint of silvery grey, that -was inexpressibly interesting. The Rhine, that winds at their feet, was -concealed from us by the garden groves, but from the upper windows of -the palace it is seen in all its majesty. - -On the right from this terrace, the smaller palace of Poppelsdorff -terminates a long avenue of limes and chesnut trees, that communicates -with both buildings, and above are the hill and the convent _Sanctæ -Crucis_, the latter looking out from among firs and shrubby steeps. -From thence the western horizon is bounded by a range of hills, clothed -to their summits with wood. The plain, that extends between these and -the Rhine, is cultivated with vines and corn, and the middle distance -is marked by a pyramidal mountain, darkened by wood and crowned with -the tower and walls of a ruined castle. - -The gardens of the palace are formally laid out in straight walks and -alleys of cut trees; but the spacious lawn between these gives fine -effect to the perspective of the distant mountains; and the bowery -walks, while they afford refreshing shelter from a summer sun, allow -partial views of the palace and the romantic landscape. - -It was the Elector Joseph Clement, the same who repaired the city, left -in a ruinous state by the siege of 1703, under the Duke of Marlborough, -that built this magnificent residence. There are in it many suites -of state rooms and every sort of apartment usual in the mansions of -Sovereigns; saloons of audience and ceremony, a library, a cabinet -of natural history and a theatre. Though these are readily opened to -strangers, we are to confess, that we did not see them, being prevented -by the attentions of those, whose civilities gave them a right to -command us, while their situations enabled them to point out the best -occupation of our time. The hall of the Grand Master of the Teutonic -Order, ornamented with portraits of all the grand masters, we are, -however, sorry to have neglected even for the delights of Poppelsdorff, -which we were presently shewn. - -Leaving the palace, we passed through the garden, on the right, to a -fine avenue of turf, nearly a mile long, bordered by alleys of tall -trees, and so wide, that the late Elector had designed to form a -canal in the middle of it, for an opportunity of passing between -his palaces, by land, or water, as he might wish. The palace of -Poppelsdorff terminates the perspective of this avenue. It is a small -building, surrounded by its gardens, in a taste not very good, and -remarkable chiefly for the pleasantness of its situation. An arcade, -encompassing a court in the interior, communicates with all the -apartments on the ground floor, which is the principal, and with the -gardens, on the eastern side of the chateau. The entrance is through a -small hall, decorated with the ensigns of hunting, and round nearly the -whole arcade stags' heads are placed, at equal distances. These have -remained here, since the reign of Clement Augustus, the founder of the -palace, who died in 1761; and they exhibit some part of the history of -his life; for, under each, is an inscription, relating the events and -date of the hunt, by which he killed it. There are twenty-three such -ornaments. - -The greatest part of the furniture had been removed, during the -approach of the French, in 1792; and the Archduchess Maria Christina, -to whom the Elector, her brother, had lent the chateau, was now very -far from sumptuously accommodated. On this account, she passed much of -her time, at Goodesberg, a small watering place in the neighbourhood. -After her retreat from Brussels, in consequence of the advances of the -French in the same year, she had accompanied her husband, the Duke of -Saxe Teschen, into Saxony; but, since his appointment to the command -of the Emperor's army of the Upper Rhine, her residence had been -established in the dominions of her brother. - -We were shewn through her apartments, which she had left for -Goodesberg, a few hours before. On the table of her sitting room -lay the fragments of a painted cross, composed of small pieces, like -our dissected maps, the putting of which together exercises ingenuity -and passes, perhaps, for a sort of piety. The attendant said, that -it served to pass the time; but it cannot be supposed, that rank -and fortune have so little power to bestow happiness, as that their -possessors should have recourse to such means of lightening the hours -of life. - -On another table, was spread a map of all the countries, then included -in the Theatre of War, and on it a box, filled with small pieces of -various coloured wax, intended to mark the positions of the different -armies. These were of many shades; for the Archduchess, who is said -to be conversant with military affairs and to have descended to the -firing of bombs at the siege of Lisle, was able to distinguish the -several corps of the allied armies, that were acting separately from -each other. The positions were marked up to the latest accounts then -public. The course of her thoughts was visible from this chart, and -they were interesting to curiosity, being those of the sister of the -late unfortunate Queen of France. - -The walls of an adjoining cabinet were ornamented with drawings from -the antique by the Archduchess, disposed upon a light ground and -serving instead of tapestry. - -The chapel is a rotunda, rising into a dome, and, though small, is -splendid with painting and gilding. In the centre are four altars, -formed on the four sides of a square pedestal, that supports a figure -of our Saviour; but the beauty of this design is marred by the vanity -of placing near each altar the statue of a founder of the Teutonic -order. The furniture of the Elector's gallery is of crimson velvet and -gold. - -On another side of the chateau, we were shewn an apartment entirely -covered with grotto work, and called the hall of shells; a curious -instance of patient industry, having been completed by one man, during -a labour of many years. Its situation in the middle of an inhabited -mansion is unsuitable to the character of a grotto: but its coolness -must render it a very convenient retreat; and the likenesses of -animals, as well as the other forms, into which the shells are thrown, -though not very elegant, are fanciful enough, especially as the -ornaments of fountains, which play into several parts of the room. - -Leaving the palace by the bridge of a moat, that nearly surrounds it, -we passed through the pleasant village of Poppelsdorff, and ascended -the hill SANCTÆ CRUCIS, called so from the convent of the same name, -which occupies its summit. The road wound between thick woods; but we -soon left it for a path, that led more immediately to the summit, -among shrubs and plantations of larch and fir, and which opened into -easy avenues of turf, that sometimes allowed momentary views of other -woody points and of the plains around. The turf was uncommonly fragrant -and fine, abounding with plants, which made us regret the want of a -Botanist's knowledge and pleasures. During the ascent, the peaked tops -of the mountains of the Rhine, so often admired below, began to appear -above a ridge of dark woods, very near us, in a contrast of hues, which -was exquisitely fine. It was now near evening; the mistiness of heat -was gone from the surface of these mountains, and they had assumed a -blue tint so peculiar and clear, that they appeared upon the sky, like -supernatural transparencies. - -We had heard, at Bonn, of the Capuchins' courtesy, and had no -hesitation to knock at their gate, after taking some rest in the -portico of the church, from whence we looked down another side of the -mountain, over the long plains between Bonn and Cologne. Having waited -some time at the gate, during which many steps fled along the passage -and the head of a monk appeared peeping through a window above, a -servant admitted us into a parlour, adjoining the refectory, which -appeared to have been just left. This was the first convent we had -entered, and we could not help expecting to see more than others had -described; an involuntary habit, from which few are free, and which -need not be imputed to vanity, so long as the love of surprise shall -be so visible in human pursuits. When the lay-brother had quitted us, -to inform the superior of our request, not a footstep, or a voice -approached, for near a quarter of an hour, and the place seemed as -if uninhabited. Our curiosity had no indulgence within the room, -which was of the utmost plainness, and that plainness free from any -thing, that the most tractable imagination could suppose peculiar to -a convent. At length, a monk appeared, who received us with infinite -good humour, and with the ease which must have been acquired in more -general society. His shaven head and black garments formed a whimsical -contrast to the character of his person and countenance, which bore no -symptoms of sorrow, or penance, and were, indeed, animated by an air -of cheerfulness and intelligence, that would have become the happiest -inhabitant of the gayest city. - -Through some silent passages, in which he did not shew us a cell and -we did not perceive another monk, we passed to the church, where the -favour of several Electors has assisted the display of paintings, -marble, sculpture, gold and silver, mingled and arranged with -magnificent effect. Among these was the marble statue, brought from -England, at a great expence, and here called a representation of St. -Anne, who is said to have found the Cross. Our conductor seemed to -be a man of good understanding and desirous of being thought so; a -disposition, which gave an awkwardness to his manner, when, in noticing -a relic, he was obliged to touch upon some unproved and unimportant -tradition, peculiar to his church and not essential to the least -article of our faith. His sense of decorum as a member of the convent -seemed then to be struggling with his vanity, as a man. - -But there are relics here, pretending to a connection with some parts -of christian history, which it is shocking to see introduced to -consideration by any means so trivial and so liable to ridicule. It -is, indeed, wonderful, that the absurd exhibitions, made in Romish -churches, should so often be minutely described, and dwelt upon in -terms of ludicrous exultation by those, who do not intend that most -malignant of offences against human nature, the endeavour to excite a -wretched vanity by sarcasm and jest, and to employ it in eradicating -the comforts of religion. To such writers, the probable mischief of -uniting with the mention of the most important divine doctrines the -most ridiculous of human impositions ought to be apparent; and, as the -risk is unnecessary in a Protestant country, why is it encountered? -That persons otherwise inclined should adopt these topics is not -surprising; the easiest pretences to wit are found to be made by means -of familiar allusions to sacred subjects, because their necessary -incongruity accomplishes the greatest part of what, in other cases, -must be done by wit itself; there will, therefore, never be an end of -such allusions, till it is generally seen, that they are the resources -and symptoms of mean understandings, urged by the feverish desire of -an eminence, to which they feel themselves inadequate. - -From the chapel we ascended to a tower of the convent, whence all -the scattered scenes, of whose beauty, or sublimity, we had caught -partial glimpses between the woods below, were collected into one vast -landscape, and exhibited almost to a single glance. The point, on which -the convent stands, commands the whole horizon. To the north, spread -the wide plains, before seen, covered with corn, then just embrowned, -and with vines and gardens, whose alternate colours formed a gay -checker work with villages, convents and castles. The grandeur of this -level was unbroken by any inclosures, that could seem to diminish its -vastness. The range of woody heights, that bound it on the west, extend -to the southward, many leagues beyond the hill _Sanctæ Crucis_; but -the uniform and unbroken ridges of distant mountains, on the east, -cease before the Seven Mountains rise above the Rhine in all their -awful majesty. The bases of the latter were yet concealed by the woody -ridge near the convent, which gives such enchanting effect to their -aërial points. The sky above them was clear and glowing, unstained -by the lightest vapour; and these mountains still appeared upon it, -like unsubstantial visions. On the two highest pinnacles we could -just distinguish the ruins of castles, and, on a lower precipice, a -building, which our reverend guide pointed out as a convent, dedicated -to St. Bernard, giving us new occasion to admire the fine taste of the -monks in their choice of situations. - -Opposite to the Seven Mountains, the plains of Goodesberg are -screened by the chain of hills already mentioned, which begin in the -neighbourhood of Cologne, and whose woods, spreading into France, -there assume the name of the Forest of Ardennes. Within the recesses -of these woods the Elector has a hunting-seat, almost every window of -which opens upon a different alley, and not a stag can cross these -without being seen from the chateau. It is melancholy to consider, -that the most frequent motives of man's retirement among the beautiful -recesses of nature, are only those of destroying the innocent animals -that inhabit her shades. Strange! that her lovely scenes cannot soften -his heart to milder pleasures, or elevate his fancy to nobler pursuits, -and that he must still seek his amusement in scattering death among the -harmless and the happy. - -As we afterwards walked in the garden of the convent, the greater part -of which was planted with vines, the monk further exhibited his good -humour and liberality. He enquired concerning the events of the war, of -which he appeared to know the latest; spoke of his friends in Cologne -and other places; drew a ludicrous picture of the effect which would -be produced by the appearance of a capuchin in London, and laughed -immoderately at it. "There," said he, "it would be supposed, that some -harlequin was walking in a capuchin's dress to attract spectators for -a pantomime; here nobody will follow him, lest he should lead them to -church. Every nation has its way, and laughs at the ways of others. -Considering the effects, which differences sometimes have, there are -few things more innocent than that sort of laughter." - -The garden was stored with fruits and the vegetable luxuries of the -table, but was laid out with no attention to beauty, its inimitable -prospects having, as the good monk said, rendered the society careless -of less advantages. After exchanging our thanks for his civilities -against his thanks for the visit, we descended to Poppelsdorff by a -steep road, bordered with firs and fragrant shrubs, which frequently -opened to corn lands and vineyards, where peasants were busied in -dressing the vines. - -About a mile from Bonn is a garden, or rather nursery, to which they -have given the name of _Vauxhall_. It is much more rural than that -of London, being planted with thick and lofty groves, which, in this -climate, are gratefully refreshing, during the summer-day, but are very -pernicious in the evening, when the vapour, arising from the ground, -cannot escape through the thick foliage. The garden is lighted up only -on great festivals, or when the Elector or his courtiers give a ball in -a large room built for the purpose. On some days, half the inhabitants -of Bonn are to be seen in this garden, mingling in the promenade with -the Elector and his nobility; but there were few visitors when we saw -it. Count GIMNICH, the commander, who had surrendered Mentz to the -French, was the only person pointed out to us. - -The road from hence to Bonn was laid out and planted with poplars -at the expence of the Elector, who has a taste for works of public -advantage and ornament. His Grandmastership of the Teutonic -Order renders his Court more frequented than those of the other -ecclesiastical Princes, the possessions of that Order being still -considerable enough to support many younger brothers of noble families. -Having passed his youth in the army, or at the courts of Vienna or -Brussels, he is also environed by friends, made before the vacancy of -an ecclesiastical electorate induced him to change his profession; and -the union of his three incomes, as Bishop of Munster, Grand Master and -Elector, enables him to spend something more than two hundred thousand -pounds annually. His experience and revenues are, in many respects, -very usefully employed. To the nobility he affords an example of -so much personal dignity, as to be able to reject many ostentatious -customs, and to remove some of the ceremonial barriers, which men -do not constantly place between themselves and their fellow-beings, -except from some consciousness of personal weakness. All sovereigns, -who have had any sense of their individual liberty and power, have -shewn a readiness to remove such barriers; but not many have been able -to effect so much as the Elector of Cologne against the chamberlains, -pages, and other footmanry of their courts, who are always upon the -_alerte_ to defend the false magnificence that makes their offices seem -necessary. He now enjoys many of the blessings, usual only in private -stations; among others, that of conversing with great numbers of -persons, not forced into his society by their rank, and of dispensing -with much of that attendance, which would render his menial servants -part of his company. - -His secretary, Mr. Floret, whom we had the pleasure to see, gave us -some accounts of the industry and carefulness of his private life, -which he judiciously thought were better than any other panegyrics -upon his master. His attention to the relief, employment and education -of the poor, to the state of manufactures and the encouragement of -talents, appears to be continual; and his country would soon have -elapsed from the general wretchedness of Germany, if the exertions -of three campaigns had not destroyed what thirty years of care and -improvement cannot restore. - -His residence at Bonn occasions expenditure enough to keep the people -busy, but he has not been able to divert to it any part of the -commerce, which, though it is of so little use at Cologne, is here -spoken of with some envy, and seems to be estimated above its amount. -The town, which is much neater than the others in the electorate, and -so pleasantly situated, that its name has been supposed to be formed -from the Latin synonym for good, is ornamented by few public buildings, -except the palace. What is called the University is a small brick -building, used more as a school than a college, except that the masters -are called professors. The principal church of four, which are within -the walls, is a large building, distinguished by several spires, but -not remarkable for its antiquity or beauty. - -Many of the German powers retain some shew of a representative -government, as to affairs of finance, and have States, by which taxes -are voted. Those of the electorate of Cologne consist of four colleges, -representing the clergy, nobility, knights and cities; the votes are -given by colleges, so that the inhabitants of the cities, if they -elect their representatives fairly, have one vote in four. These States -assemble at Bonn. - -One of the privileges, which it is surprising that the present Elector -should retain, is that of grinding corn for the consumption of the -whole town. His mill, like those of all the towns on the Rhine, is a -floating one, moored in the river, which turns its wheel. Bread is -bad at Bonn; but this oppressive privilege is not entirely answerable -for it, there being little better throughout the whole country. It -generally appears in rolls, with glazed crusts, half hollow; the crumb -not brown, but a sort of dirty white. - -There are few cities in Germany without walls, which, when the dreadful -science of war was less advanced than at present, frequently protected -them against large armies. These are now so useless, that such cannon -as are employed against batteries could probably not be fired from -them without shaking their foundations. The fortifications of Bonn are -of this sort; and, though they were doubtless better, when the Duke -of Marlborough arrived before them, it is wonderful that they should -have sustained a regular siege, during which great part of the town was -demolished. The electorate of Cologne is, indeed, so ill prepared for -war, that it has not one town, which could resist ten thousand men for -three days. - -The inhabitants of Bonn, whenever they regret the loss of their -fortifications, should be reminded of the three sieges, which, in the -course of thirty years, nearly destroyed their city. Of these the -first was in 1673, when the Elector had received a French garrison -into it; but the resistance did not then continue many days. It was -in this siege that the Prince of Orange, afterwards our honoured -William the Third, had one of his few military successes. In 1689, -the French, who had lately defended it, returned to attack it; and, -before they could subdue the strong garrison left in it by the Elector -of Brandenburg, the palace and several public buildings were destroyed. -The third siege was commanded by the Duke of Marlborough, and continued -from the 24th of April to the 16th of May, the French being then the -defenders, and the celebrated Cohorn one of the assailants. It was not -till fifteen years afterwards, that all the houses, demolished in this -siege, could be restored by the efforts of the Elector Joseph. - -The present Elector maintains, in time of peace, about eight hundred -soldiers, which is the number of his contingent to the army of the -Empire: in the present war he has supplied somewhat more than this -allotment; and, when we were at Bonn, two thousand recruits were in -training. His troops wear the general uniform of the Empire, blue -faced with red, which many of the Germanic sovereigns give only to -their contingent troops, while those of their separate establishments -are distinguished by other colours. The Austrian regiments are chiefly -in white; faced with light blue, grey, or red; but the artillery are -dressed, with very little shew, in a cloak speckled with light brown. - -Bonn was one of the very few places in Germany, which we left with -regret. It is endeared to the votaries of landscape by its situation -in the midst of fruitful plains, in the presence of stupendous -mountains, and on the bank of a river, that, in summer, is impelled -by the dissolved snows of Switzerland, and, in winter, rolls with the -accumulation of a thousand torrents from the rocks on its shores. -It contained many inhabitants, who had the independence to aim at a -just taste in morals and letters, in spite of the ill examples with -which such countries supply them; and, having the vices of the form -of government, established in it, corrected by the moderation and -immediate attention of the governor, it might be considered as a happy -region in the midst of ignorance, injustice and misery, and remembered -like the green spot, that, in an Arabian desert, cheers the senses and -sustains the hopes of the weary traveller. - - - - -GOODESBERG. - - -The ride from Bonn to this delightful village is only one league over -a narrow plain, covered with corn and vineyards. On our right was the -range of hills, before seen from the mountain SANCTÆ CRUCIS, sweeping -into frequent recesses, and starting forward into promontories, with -inequalities, which gave exquisite richness to the forest, that -mantled from their bases to their utmost summits. Many a lurking -village, with its slender grey steeple, peeped from among the woody -skirts of these hills. On our left, the tremendous mountains, that bind -the eastern shore of the Rhine, gradually lost their aërial complexion, -as we approached them, and displayed new features and new enchantments; -an ever-varying illusion, to which the transient circumstance of -thunder clouds contributed. The sun-beams, streaming among these -clouds, threw partial gleams upon the precipices, and, followed by dark -shadows, gave surprising and inimitable effect to the natural colouring -of the mountains, whose pointed tops we now discerned to be covered -with dark heath, extended down their rocky sides, and mingled with the -reddish and light yellow tints of other vegetation and the soil. It -was delightful to watch the shadows sweeping over these steeps, now -involving them in deep obscurity, and then leaving them to the sun's -rays, which brought out all their hues into vivid contrast. - -Near Goodesberg, a small mountain, insulated, abrupt and pyramidal, -rises from the plain, which it seems to terminate, and conceals the -village, that lies along its southern skirt. This mountain, covered -with vineyards and thick dwarf wood to its summit, where one high tower -and some shattered walls appear, is a very interesting object. - -At the entrance of the village, the road was obstructed by a great -number of small carts, filled with soldiers apparently wounded. The -line of their procession had been broken by some carriages, hastening -with company to the ridotto at Goodesberg, and was not easily restored. -Misery and festivity could scarcely be brought into closer contrast. -We thought of Johnson's "many-coloured life," and of his picture, in -the preface to Shakespeare, of cotemporary wretchedness and joy, when -"the reveller is hastening to his wine, and the mourner is burying his -friend." This was a procession of wounded French prisoners, chiefly -boys, whose appearance had, indeed, led us to suspect their nation, -before we saw the stamp of the _fasces_, and the words "_Republique -Françoise_" upon the buttons of some, whom our driver had nearly -overset. The few, that could raise themselves above the floor of their -carts, shewed countenances yellow, or livid with sickness. They did not -talk to their guards, nor did the latter shew any signs of exultation -over them. - -In a plain, beyond the village, a row of large houses, built upon one -plan, and almost resembling a palace, form the little watering place -of Goodesberg, which has been founded partly at the expence of the -Elector, and partly by individuals under his patronage. One of the -houses was occupied by the Archduchess, his sister, and is often used -by the Elector, who is extremely solicitous for the prosperity of the -place. A large building at the end contains the public rooms, and is -fitted up as an hotel. - -The situation of this house is beautiful beyond any hope or power -of description; for description, though it may tell that there are -mountains and rocks, cannot paint the grandeur, or the elegance of -outline, cannot give the effect of precipices, or draw the minute -features, that reward the actual observer by continual changes of -colour, and by varying their forms at every new choice of his position. -Delightful Goodesberg! the sublime and beautiful of landscape, the -charms of music, and the pleasures of gay and elegant society, were -thine! The immediate unhappiness of war has now fallen upon thee; but, -though the graces may have fled thee, thy terrible majesty remains, -beyond the sphere of human contention. - -The plain, that contains the village and the spa, is about five miles -in length and of half that breadth. It is covered by uninclosed corn, -and nearly surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of mountains. In front of -the inn, at the distance of half a league, extend, along the opposite -shore of the Rhine, the Seven Mountains, so long seen and admired, -which here assume a new attitude. The three tallest points are now -nearest to the eye, and the lower mountains are seen either in the -perspective between them, or sinking, with less abrupt declivities, -into the plains, on the north. The whole mass exhibits a grandeur of -outline, such as the pencil only can describe; but fancy may paint -the stupendous precipices of rock, that rise over the Rhine, the rich -tuftings of wood, that emboss the cliffs or lurk within the recesses, -the spiry summits and the ruined castles, faintly discerned, that crown -them. Yet the appearance of these mountains, though more grand, from -Goodesberg, is less sublime than from Bonn; for the nearness, which -increases their grandeur, diminishes their sublimity by removing the -obscurity that had veiled them. To the south of this plain, the long -perspective is crossed by further ranges of mountains, which open to -glimpses of others still beyond; an endless succession of summits, that -lead on the imagination to unknown vallies and regions of solitary -obscurity. - -Amidst so many attractions of nature, art cannot do much. The little, -which it attempts, at Goodesberg, is the disposition of some walks -from the houses to a spring, which is said to resemble that at Spa, -and through the woods above it. Twice a week there are some musical -performances and a ball given by the Elector, who frequently -appears, and with the ease and plainness of a private gentleman. At -these entertainments the company, visiting the spring, are joined by -neighbouring families, so as to be in number sixty, or a hundred. The -balls, agreeably to the earliness of German hours, begin at six; and -that, which we meant to see, was nearly concluded before our arrival. -The company then retired to a public game, at which large sums of gold -were risked, and a severe anxiety defied the influence of Mozart's -music, that continued to be played by an excellent orchestra. The -dresses of the company were in the English taste, and, as we were glad -to believe, chiefly of English manufacture; the wearing of countenances -by play appears to be also according to our manners; and the German -ladies, with features scarcely less elegant, have complexions, -perhaps, finer than are general in England. - -Meditating censures against the Elector's policy, or carelessness, -in this respect, we took advantage of the last gleams of evening, to -ascend the slender and spiry mountain, which bears the name of the -village, and appears ready to precipitate the ruins of its antient -castle upon it. A steep road, winding among vineyards and dwarf wood, -enters, at the summit of the mountain, the broken walls, which surround -the antient citadel of the castle; an almost solid building, that has -existed for more than five centuries. From the area of these ruins -we saw the sun set over the whole line of plains, that extend to the -westward of Cologne, whose spires were distinctly visible. Bonn, and -the hill SANCTÆ CRUCIS, appeared at a league's distance, and the -windings of the Rhine gleamed here and there amidst the rich scene, -like distant lakes. It was a still and beautiful evening, in which no -shade remained of the thunder clouds, that passed in the day. To the -west, under the glow of sun-set, the landscape melted into the horizon -in tints so soft, so clear, so delicately roseate as Claude only could -have painted. Viewed, as we then saw it, beyond a deep and dark arch of -the ruin, its effect was enchanting; it was to the eye, what the finest -strains of Paisiello are to the heart, or the poetry of Collins is to -the fancy--all tender, sweet, elegant and glowing. - -From the other side of the hill the character of the view is entirely -different, and, instead of a long prospect over an open and level -country, the little plain of Goodesberg appears reposing amidst wild -and awful mountains. These were now melancholy and silent; the last -rays were fading from their many points, and the obscurity of twilight -began to spread over them. We seemed to have found the spot, for which -Collins wished: - - "Now let me rove some wild and heathy scene, - Or find some ruin 'midst its dreary dells, - Whose walls more awful nod - By thy religious gleams." - ODE TO EVENING. - -And this is a place almost as renowned in the history of the country, -as it is worthy to exercise the powers of poetry and painting. The same -Ernest, in the cause of whose sovereignty the massacre of Neuss was -perpetrated, besieged here the same Gerard de Trusches, the Elector, -who had embraced the Protestant religion, and for whom Neuss held out. -The castle of Goodesberg was impregnable, except by famine, but was -very liable to that from its insulated situation, and the ease, with -which the whole base of the mountain could be surrounded. Gerard's -defence was rendered the more obstinate by his belief, that nothing -less than his life, and that of a beautiful woman, the marrying -of whom had constituted one of the offences against his Chapter, -would appease his ferocious enemies. He was personally beloved by -his garrison, and they adhered to him with the affection of friends, -as well as with the enthusiasm of soldiers. When, therefore, they -perceived, that their surrender could not be much longer protracted, -they resolved to employ their remaining time and strength in enabling -him to separate his fortunes from theirs. They laboured incessantly -in forming a subterraneous passage, which should open beyond the -besiegers' lines; and, though their distress became extreme before this -was completed, they made no overtures for a surrender, till Gerard and -his wife had escaped by it. The fugitives arrived safely in Holland, -and the vengeance of their adversaries was never gratified further than -by hearing, many years after, that they died poor. - -The fortress, rendered interesting by these traits of fidelity and -misfortune, is not so far decayed, but that its remains exhibit much -of its original form. It covered the whole summit of the hill, and -was valuable as a residence, as well as a fortification. What seem -to have been the walls of the great hall, in which probably the horn -of two quarts was often emptied to welcome the guest, or reward the -soldier, are still perfect enough to preserve the arches of its -capacious windows, and the doorways, that admitted its festive trains. -The vast strength of the citadel has been unsubdued by war, or time. -Though the battlements, that crown it, are broken, and of a gallery, -that once encircled it half way from the ground, the corbells alone -remain, the solid walls of the building itself are unimpaired. At the -narrow doorway, by which only it could be entered, we measured their -thickness, and found it to be more than ten feet, nearly half the -diameter of its area. There has never been a fixed staircase, though -these walls would so well have contained one; and the hole is still -perfect in the floor above, through which the garrison ascended, and -drew up their ladder after them. Behind the loopholes, the wall has -been hollowed, and would permit a soldier, half bent, to stand within -them and use his bow. It was twilight without and night within the -edifice; which fancy might have easily filled with the stern and silent -forms of warriors, waiting for their prey, with the patience of safety -and sure superiority. - -We wandered long among these vestiges of ancient story, rendered still -more interesting by the shadowy hour and the vesper bell of a chapel -on a cliff below. The village, to which this belongs, straggles half -way up the mountain, and there are several little shrines above it, -which the cottagers, on festivals, decorate with flowers. The Priest -is the schoolmaster of the parish, and almost all the children, within -several miles of the hill, walk to it, every day, to prayers and -lessons. Whether it is from this care of their minds, or that they are -under the authority of milder landlords than elsewhere, the manners -of the inhabitants in this plain differ much from those, usual in -Germany. Instead of an inveterate sullenness, approaching frequently -to malignity, they shew a civility and gentleness in their intercourse -with strangers, which leave the enjoyments derived from inanimate -nature, unalloyed by the remembrances of human deformity, that mingle -with them in other districts. Even the children's begging is in a -manner, which shews a different character. They here kiss their little -hands, and silently hold them out to you, almost as much in salute, as -in entreaty; in many parts of Germany their manner is so offensive, -not only for its intrusion, but as a symptom of their disposition, -that nothing but the remembrance of the oppression, that produces it, -can prevent you from denying the little they are compelled to require. - -The music had not ceased, when we returned to the inn; and the -mellowness of French horns, mingled with the tenderness of hautboys, -gave a kind of enchantment to the scenery, which we continued to watch -from our windows. The opposite mountains of the Rhine were gradually -vanishing in twilight and then as gradually re-appearing, as the rising -moon threw her light upon their broken surfaces. The perspective in the -east received a silvery softness, which made its heights appear like -shadowy illusions, while the nearer mountains were distinguished by -their colouring, as much as by their forms. The broad Rhine, at their -feet, rolled a stream of light for their boundary, on this side. But -the first exquisite tint of beauty soon began to fade; the mountains -became misty underneath the moon, and, as she ascended, these mists -thickened, till they veiled the landscape from our view. - -The spring, which is supposed to have some medicinal qualities, is -about a quarter of a mile from the rooms, in a woody valley, in which -the Elector has laid out several roads and walks. It rises in a stone -bason, to which the company, if they wish to drink it on the spot, -descend by an handsome flight of steps. We were not told its qualities, -but there is a ferrugineous tint upon all the stones, which it touches. -The taste is slightly unpleasant. - -The three superior points of the Seven Mountains, which contribute -so much to the distinction of Goodesberg, are called Drakenfels, -Wolkenbourg and Lowenbourg, and have each been crowned by its castle, -of which two are still visible in ruins. There is a story faintly -recorded, concerning them. Three brothers, resolving to found three -distinguished families, took the method, which was anciently in use -for such a purpose, that of establishing themselves in fortresses, -from whence they could issue out, and take what they wanted from their -industrious neighbours. The pinnacles of Drakenfels, Wolkenbourg and -Lowenbourg, which, with all assistance, cannot be ascended now, without -the utmost fatigue, were inaccessible, when guarded by the castles, -built by the three brothers. Their depredations, which they called -successes in war, enriched their families, and placed them amongst the -most distinguished in the Empire. - -They had a sister, named Adelaide, famed to have been very beautiful; -and, their parents being dead, the care of her had descended to them. -Roland, a young knight, whose castle was on the opposite bank of -the Rhine, became her suitor, and gained her affections. Whether the -brothers had expected, by her means, to form a more splendid alliance, -or that they remembered the ancient enmity between their family and -that of Roland, they secretly resolved to deny the hand of Adelaide, -but did not choose to provoke him by a direct refusal. They stipulated, -that he should serve, a certain number of years, in the war of -Palestine, and, on his return, should be permitted to renew his suit. - -Roland took a reluctant farewell of Adelaide, and went to the war, -where he was soon distinguished for an impetuous career. Adelaide -remained in the castle of Drakenfels, waiting, in solitary fidelity, -for his return. But the brothers had determined, that he should not -return for her. They clothed one of their dependents in the disguise of -a pilgrim, and introduced him into the castle, where he related that he -was arrived from the holy wars, and had been desired by Roland in his -latest moments to assure Adelaide of his having loved her till death. - -The unhappy Adelaide believed the tale, and, from that time, devoted -herself to the memory of Roland and to the nourishment of her sorrow. -She rejected all the suitors, introduced by her brothers, and accepted -no society, but that of some neighbouring nuns. At length, the gloom of -a cloister became so necessary to the melancholy of her imagination, -that she resolved to found a convent and take the veil; a design, which -her brothers assisted, with the view of placing her effectually beyond -the reach of her lover. She chose an island in the Rhine between her -brother's castle and the seat of Roland, both of which she could see -from the windows of her convent; and here she passed some years in the -placid performance of her new duties. - -At length, Roland returned, and they both discovered the cruel device, -by which they had been separated for ever. Adelaide remained in her -convent, and soon after died; but Roland, emulating the fidelity of -her retirement, built, at the extreme point of his domains towards the -Rhine, a small castle, that overlooked the island, where he wasted -his days in melancholy regret, and in watching over the walls, that -shrouded his Adelaide. - -This is the story, on which the wild and vivid imagination of Ariosto -is said to have founded his Orlando. - - - - -THE VALLEY OF ANDERNACH. - - -After spending part of two days at Goodesberg, we set out, in a sultry -afternoon, for the town of Andernach, distant about five-and-twenty -English miles. The road wound among corn-lands towards the Rhine, and -approached almost as near to the Seven Mountains, as the river would -permit. Opposite to the last, and nearly the tallest of these, called -Drakenfels, the open plain terminates, and the narrower valley begins. - -This mountain towers, the majestic sentinel of the river over which -it aspires, in vast masses of rock, varied with rich tuftings of -dwarf-wood, and bearing on its narrow peak the remains of a castle, -whose walls seem to rise in a line with the perpendicular precipice, -on which they stand, and, when viewed from the opposite bank, appear -little more than a rugged cabin. The eye aches in attempting to scale -this rock; but the sublimity of its height and the grandeur of its -intermingled cliffs and woods gratify the warmest wish of fancy. - -The road led us along the western bank of the Rhine among vineyards, -and corn, and thick trees, that allowed only transient catches of the -water between their branches; but the gigantic form of Drakenfels was -always seen, its superior features, perhaps, appearing more wild, from -the partial concealment of its base, and assuming new attitudes as -we passed away from it. Lowenberg, whose upper region only had been -seen from Goodesberg, soon unfolded itself from behind Drakenfels, and -displayed all its pomp of wood, sweeping from the spreading base in -one uninterrupted line of grandeur to the spiry top, on which one high -tower of the castle appears enthroned among the forests. This is the -loftiest of the Seven Mountains; and its dark sides, where no rock is -visible, form a fine contrast with the broken cliffs of Drakenfels. A -multitude of spiry summits appeared beyond Lowenberg, seen and lost -again, as the nearer rocks of the shore opened to the distance, or -re-united. About a mile further, lies the pleasant island, on which -Adelaide raised her convent. As it was well endowed, it has been -rebuilt, and is now a large and handsome quadrangle of white stone, -surrounded with trees, and corn, and vineyards, and still allotted to -the society, which she established. An abrupt, but not lofty rock, on -the western shore of the Rhine, called Rolands Eck, or Roland's Corner, -is the site of her lover's castle, of which one arch, picturesquely -shadowed with wood, is all that remains of this monument to faithful -love. The road winds beneath it, and nearly overhangs the narrow -channel, that separates Adelaide's island from the shore. Concerning -this rock there is an antient rhyme in the country, amounting to -something like the following: - - Was not Roland, the knight, a strange silly wight, - For the love of a nun, to live on this height? - -After passing the island, the valley contracts, and the river is soon -shut up between fruitful and abrupt hills, which rise immediately -over it, on one side, and a series of rocky heights on the other. In -the small space, left between these heights and the Rhine, the road -is formed. For the greater part of the way, it has been hollowed in -the solid rock, which ascends almost perpendicularly above it, on one -hand, and sinks as abruptly below it, to the river, on the other; a -work worthy of Roman perseverance and design, and well known to be -a monument of both. It was made during the reign of Marcus Aurelius -and Lucius Verus; and as the inscription, whose antiquity has not -been doubted, dates its completion in the year 162, it must have been -finished in one year, or little more, Marcus Aurelius having been -raised to the purple in 161. The Elector Palatine having repaired -this road, which the Electors of Cologne had neglected, in 1768, has -caused his name to be joined with those of the Roman Emperors, in the -following inscription upon an obelisk: - - VIAM - SUB M. - AURELIO - ET L. VERO - I. M. P. P. - ANNO CHR. - CLXII - MUNITAM - CAROLUS - THEODORUS - ELECTOR PAL. - DUX BAV. JUL. CL. M. - REFECIT - ET AMPLIAVIT - AN. M.DCCLXVIII - CURANTE JO. LUD. COMITE - DE GOLDSTEIN - PRO PRINCIPE. - -We did not sufficiently observe the commencement and conclusion of -this road, to be certain of its exact length; but it is probably -about twelve miles. The rock above is, for the most part, naked to -the summit, where it is thinly covered with earth; but sometimes it -slopes so much as to permit patches of soil on its side, and these are -carefully planted with vines. This shore of the Rhine may be said to be -bounded, for many miles, by an immense wall of rock, through which the -openings into the country behind are few; and these breaks shew only -deep glens, seen and lost again so quickly, that a woody mountain, or a -castle, or a convent, were the only objects we could ascertain. - -This rock lies in oblique _strata_, and resembles marble in its brown -and reddish tints, marked with veins of deeper red; but we are unable -to mention it under its proper and scientific denomination. The -colouring of the cliffs is beautiful, when mingled with the verdure of -shrubs, that sometimes hang in rich drapery from their points, and -with the mosses, and creeping vegetables of bright crimson, yellow, and -purple, that emboss their fractured sides. - -The road, which the Elector mentions himself to have widened, is now -and then very narrow, and approaches near enough to the river, over -which it has no parapet, to make a traveller anxious for the sobriety -and skill of his postillion. It is sometimes elevated forty feet above -the level of the Rhine, and seldom less than thirty; an elevation from -whence the water and its scenery are viewed to great advantage; but to -the variety and grandeur of these shores, and the ever-changing form of -the river, description cannot do justice. - -Sometimes, as we approached a rocky point, we seemed going to plunge -into the expanse of water beyond; when, turning the sharp angle of -the promontory, the road swept along an ample bay, where the rocks, -receding, formed an amphitheatre, covered with _ilex_ and dwarf-wood, -round a narrow, but cultivated level stripe: then, winding the furthest -angle of this crescent, under huge cliffs, we saw the river beyond, -shut in by the folding bases of more distant promontories, assume the -form of a lake, amidst wild and romantic landscapes. Having doubled one -of these capes, the prospect opened in long perspective, and the green -waters of the Rhine appeared in all their majesty, flowing rapidly -between ranges of marbled rocks, and a succession of woody steeps, and -overlooked by a multitude of spiry summits, which distance had sweetly -coloured with the blue and purple tints of air. - -The retrospect of the river, too, was often enchanting, and the Seven -Mountains long maintained their dignity in the scene, superior to many -intervening heights; the dark summit of Lowenbourg, in particular, -appeared, for several leagues, overlooking the whole valley of the -Rhine. - -The eastern margin of the river sometimes exhibited as extensive a -range of steep rocks as the western, and frequently the fitness of -the salient angles on one side, to the recipient ones on the other, -seemed to justify the speculation, that they had been divided by an -earthquake, which let the river in between them. The general state of -the eastern bank, though steep, is that of the thickest cultivation. -The rock frequently peeps, in rugged projections, through the thin -soil, which is scattered over its declivity, and every where appears -at top; but the sides are covered with vines so abundantly, that the -labour of cultivating them, and of expressing the wine, supports a -village at least at every half mile. The green rows are led up the -steeps to an height, which cannot be ascended without the help of -steps cut in the rock: the soil itself is there supported by walls of -loose stones, or it would fall either by its own weight, or with the -first pressure of rain; and sometimes even this scanty mould appears -to have been placed there by art, being in such small patches, that, -perhaps, only twenty vines can be planted in each. But such excessive -labour has been necessary only towards the summits, for, lower down, -the soil is sufficiently deep to support the most luxuriant vegetation. - -It might be supposed from so much produce and exertion, that this -bank of the Rhine is the residence of an opulent, or, at least, a -well-conditioned peasantry, and that the villages, of which seven -or eight are frequently in sight at once, are as superior to the -neighbouring towns by the state of their inhabitants, as they are by -their picturesque situation. On the contrary, the inhabitants of the -wine country are said to be amongst the poorest in Germany. The -value of every hill is exactly watched by the landlords, so that the -tenants are very seldom benefited by any improvement of its produce. -If the rent is paid in money, it leaves only so much in the hands of -the farmer as will enable him to live, and pay his workmen; while the -attention of a great number of stewards is supposed to supply what -might be expected from his attention, had he a common interest with -his landlord in the welfare of the estate. But the rent is frequently -paid in kind, amounting to a settled proportion of the produce; and -this proportion is so fixed, that, though the farmer is immoderately -distressed by a bad vintage, the best will not afford him any means -of approaching to independence. In other countries it might be asked, -"But, though we can suppose the ingenuity of the landlord to be -greater than that of the tenant, at the commencement of a bargain, -how happens it, that, since the result must be felt, the tenant will -remain under his burthens, or can be succeeded by any other, on such -terms?" Here, however, these questions are not applicable; they -presume a choice of situations, which the country does not afford. The -severity of the agricultural system continues itself by continuing the -poverty, upon which it acts; and those who would escape from it find -few manufactures and little trade to employ them, had they the capital -and the education necessary for either. The choice of such persons is -between the being a master of day-labourers for their landlord, or a -labourer under other masters. - -Many of these estates belong immediately to Princes, or Chapters, -whose stewards superintend the cultivation, and are themselves instead -of the farmers, so that all other persons employed in such vineyards -are ordinary servants. By one or other of these means it happens, -that the bounteousness of nature to the country is very little felt by -the body of the inhabitants. The payment of rents in kind is usual, -wherever the vineyards are most celebrated; and, at such places, there -is this sure proof of the wretchedness of the inhabitants, that, in -a month after the wine is made, you cannot obtain one bottle of the -true produce, except by favour of the proprietors, or their stewards. -How much is the delight of looking upon plenteousness lessened by the -belief, that it supplies the means of excess to a few, but denies those -of competence to many! - -Between this pass of cultivated steeps on one side of the river, -and of romantic rocks on the other, the road continues for several -miles. Being thus commanded on both sides, it must be one of the most -difficult passages in Europe to an enemy, if resolutely defended. The -Rhine, pent between these impenetrable boundaries, is considerably -narrower here than in other parts of the valley, and so rapid, that -a loaded vessel can seldom be drawn faster than at the rate of six -English miles a day, against the stream. The passage down the river -from Mentz to Cologne may be easily performed in two days; that from -Cologne to Mentz requires a fortnight. - -The view along this pass, though bounded, is various and changeful. -Villages, vineyards and rocks alternately ornament the borders of -the river, and every fifty yards enable the eye to double some massy -projection that concealed the fruitful bay behind. An object at -the end of the pass is presented singly to the sight as through an -inverted telescope. The surface of the water, or the whole stillness -of the scene, was very seldom interrupted by the passing of a boat; -carriages were still fewer; and, indeed, throughout Germany, you will -not meet more than one in twenty miles. Travelling is considered -by the natives, who know the fatigue of going in carriages nearly -without springs, and stopping at inns where there is little of -either accommodation or civility, as productive of no pleasure; and -they have seldom curiosity or business enough to recompense for its -inconveniences. - -We passed through two or three small towns, whose ruined gates and -walls told of their antiquity, and that they had once been held of some -consequence in the defence of the valley. Their present desolation -formed a melancholy contrast with the cheerful cultivation around them. -These, however, with every village in our way, were decorated with -green boughs, planted before the door of each cottage, for it was a day -of festival. The little chapels at the road-side, and the image, which, -every now and then, appeared under a spreading tree, were adorned with -wreaths of fresh flowers; and though one might smile at the emblems -of superstition, it was impossible not to reverence the sentiment of -pious affection, which had adjusted these simple ornaments. - -About half-way to Andernach, the western rocks suddenly recede from the -river, and, rising to greater height, form a grand sweep round a plain -cultivated with orchards, garden-fields, corn and vineyards. The valley -here spreads to a breadth of nearly a mile and an half, and exhibits -grandeur, beauty and barren sublimity, united in a singular manner. -The abrupt steeps, that rise over this plain, are entirely covered -with wood, except that here and there the ravage of a winter torrent -appeared, which could sometimes be traced from the very summit of the -acclivity to the base. Near the centre, this noble amphitheatre opens -to a glen, that shews only wooded mountains, point above point, in -long perspective; such sylvan pomp we had seldom seen! But though the -tuftings of the nearer woods were beautifully luxuriant, there seemed -to be few timber trees amongst them. The opposite shore exhibited only -a range of rocks, variegated like marble, of which purple was the -predominating tint, and uniformly disposed in vast, oblique strata. -But even here, little green patches of vines peeped among the cliffs, -and were led up crevices where it seemed as if no human foot could -rest. Along the base of this tremendous wall, and on the points above, -villages, with each its tall, grey steeple, were thickly strewn, thus -mingling in striking contrast the cheerfulness of populous inhabitation -with the horrors of untamed nature. A few monasteries, resembling -castles in their extent, and known from such only by their spires, were -distinguishable; and, in the widening perspective of the Rhine, an old -castle itself, now and then, appeared on the summit of a mountain -somewhat remote from the shore; an object rendered sweetly picturesque, -as the sun's rays lighted up its towers and fortified terraces, while -the shrubby steeps below were in shade. - -We saw this landscape under the happiest circumstances of season and -weather; the woods and plants were in their midsummer bloom, and the -mellow light of evening heightened the richness of their hues, and gave -exquisite effect to one half of the amphitheatre we were passing, while -the other half was in shadow. The air was scented by bean-blossoms, and -by lime-trees then in flower, that bordered the road. If this plain had -mingled pasture with its groves, it would have been truly Arcadian; -but neither here, nor through the whole of this delightful valley, did -we see a single pasture or meadow, except now and then in an island -on the Rhine; deficiencies which are here supplied, to the lover of -landscape, by the verdure of the woods and vines. In other parts of -Germany they are more to be regretted, where, frequently, only corn and -rock colour the land. - -Fatigued at length by such prodigality of beauty, we were glad to be -shrouded awhile from the view of it, among close boughs, and to see -only the wide rivulets, with their rustic bridges of faggots and earth, -that, descending from among the mountains, frequently crossed our way; -or the simple peasant-girl, leading her cows to feed on the narrow -stripe of grass that margined the road. The little bells, that jingled -at their necks, would not suffer them to stray beyond her hearing. If -we had not long since dismissed our surprise at the scarcity and bad -quality of cheese and butter in Germany, we should have done so now, -on perceiving this scanty method of pasturing the cattle, which -future observation convinced us was the frequent practice. - -About sun-set we reached the little village of Namedy, seated near -the foot of a rock, round which the Rhine makes a sudden sweep, and, -contracted by the bold precipices of Hammerstein on the opposite -shore, its green current passes with astonishing rapidity and sounding -strength. These circumstances of scenery, with the tall masts of -vessels lying below the shrubby bank, on which the village stands, -and seeming to heighten by comparison the stupendous rocks, that rose -around them; the moving figures of boatmen and horses employed in -towing a barge against the stream, in the bay beyond; and a group of -peasants on the high quay, in the fore ground, watching their progress; -the ancient castle of Hammerstein overlooking the whole--these were -a combination of images, that formed one of the most interesting -pictures we had seen. - -The valley again expanding, the walls and turrets of Andernach, with -its Roman tower rising independently at the foot of a mountain, and -the ruins of its castle above, appeared athwart the perspective of -the river, terminating the pass; for there the rocky boundary opened -to plains and remote mountains. The light vapour, that rose from the -water, and was tinged by the setting rays, spread a purple haze over -the town and the cliffs, which, at this distance, appeared to impend -over it; colouring extremely beautiful, contrasted as it was by the -clearer and deeper tints of rocks, wood and water nearer to the eye. - -As we approached Andernach, its situation seemed to be perpetually -changing, with the winding bank. Now it appeared seated on a low -peninsula, that nearly crossed the Rhine, overhung by romantic rocks; -but this vision vanished as we advanced, and we perceived the town -lying along a curving shore, near the foot of the cliffs, which were -finely fringed with wood, and at the entrance of extensive plains. Its -towers seen afar, would be signs of a considerable place, to those who -had not before been wearied of such symptoms by the towers of Neuss, -and other German towns. From a wooded precipice over the river we had -soon after a fine retrospective glimpse of the valley, its fantastic -shores, and long mountainous distance, over which evening had drawn -her sweetest colouring. As we pursued the pass, the heights on either -hand gradually softened; the country beyond shewed remote mountains -less wild and aspiring than those we had left, and the blooming tint, -which had invested the distance, deepened to a dusky purple, and then -vanished in the gloom of twilight. The progressive influence of the -hour upon the landscape was interesting; and the shade of evening, -under which we entered Andernach, harmonized with the desolation and -silence of its old walls and the broken ground around them. We passed -a drawbridge and a ruinous gateway, and were sufficiently fatigued -to be somewhat anxious as to our accommodation. The English habit of -considering, towards the end of the day's journey, that you are not far -from the cheerful reception, the ready attendance, and the conveniences -of a substantial inn, will soon be lost in Germany. There, instead of -being in good spirits, during the last stage, from such a prospect, -you have to consider, whether you shall find a room, not absolutely -disgusting, or a house with any eatable provision, or a landlady, -who will give it you, before the delay and the fatigue of an hundred -requests have rendered you almost incapable of receiving it. When your -carriage stops at the inn, you will perhaps perceive, instead of the -alacrity of an English waiter, or the civility of an English landlord, -a huge figure, wrapt in a great coat, with a red worsted cap on his -head, and a pipe in his mouth, stalking before the door. This is the -landlord. He makes no alteration in his pace on perceiving you, or, -if he stops, it is to eye you with curiosity; he seldom speaks, never -bows, or assists you to alight; and perhaps stands surrounded by a -troop of slovenly girls, his daughters, whom the sound of wheels has -brought to the door, and who, as they lean indolently against it, gaze -at you with rude curiosity and surprise. - -The drivers in Germany are all bribed by the innkeepers, and, either -by affecting to misunderstand you, or otherwise, will constantly stop -at the door, where they are best paid. That this money comes out -of your pocket the next morning is not the grievance; the evil is, -that the worst inns give them the most, and a traveller, unless he -exactly remembers his directions, is liable to be lodged in all the -vilest rooms of a country, where the best hotels have no lodging so -clean and no larder so wholesomely filled as those of every half-way -house between London and Canterbury. When you are within the inn, the -landlord, who is eager to keep, though not to accommodate you, will -affirm, that his is the inn you ask for, or that the other sign is -not in the place; and, as you soon learn to believe any thing of the -wretchedness of the country, you are unwilling to give up one lodging, -lest you should not find another. - -Our driver, after passing a desolate, half filled place, into which the -gate of Andernach opened, entered a narrow passage, which afterwards -appeared to be one of the chief streets of the place. Here he found a -miserable inn, and declared that there was no other; but, as we had -seen one of a much better appearance, we were at length brought to -that, and, though with some delay, were not ill accommodated, for the -night. - -Andernach is an antient town, and it is believed, that a tower, which -stands alone, at one end of the walls, was built by Drusus, of whom -there are many traces in walls and castles, intended to defend the -colonies, on this side of the Rhine, against the Germans, on the -other. The fortifications can now be of little other use than to -authorise the toll, which travellers pay, for entering a walled town; -a tax, on account of which many of the walls are supported, though it -is pretended, that the tax is to support the walls. By their means -also, the Elector of Cologne collects here the last of four payments, -which he demands for the privilege of passing the Rhine from Urdingen -to Andernach; and this is the most Southern frontier town of his -dominions on the western side of the Rhine, which soon after join -those of the Elector of Treves. Their length from hence to Rheinberg is -not less than ninety miles; the breadth probably never more than twenty. - -There is some trade, at Andernach, in tiles, timber, and mill-stones, -but the heaps of these commodities upon the beach are the only visible -symptoms of the traffick; for you will not see one person in the place -moving as if he had business to attract him, or one shop of a better -appearance, than an English huckster's, or one man in the dress of a -creditable trader, or one house, which can be supposed to belong to -persons in easy circumstances. The port contains, perhaps, half a dozen -vessels, clinker built, in shape between a barge and a sloop; on the -quay, you may see two or three fellows, harnessing half a dozen horses -to a tow line, while twenty more watch their lingering manœuvres, and -this may probably be the morning's business of the town. Those, who are -concerned in it, say that they are engaged in _commerce_. - -This, or something like it, is the condition, as to trade, of all the -towns we saw in Germany, one or two excepted. They are so far from -having well filled, or spacious repositories, that you can scarcely -tell at what houses there are any, till you are led within the door; -you may then wait long after you are heard, or seen, before the owner, -if he has any other engagement, thinks it necessary to approach you: -if he has what you ask for, which he probably has not, unless it is -something very ordinary, he tells the price and takes it, with as much -sullenness, as if you were forcing the goods from him: if he has not, -and can shew you only something very different, he then considers -your enquiry as an intrusion, and appears to think himself injured -by having had the trouble to answer you. What seems unaccountable -in the manners of a German trader, is, that, though he is so careless -in attending you, he looks as much distressed, as vexed, if you do -not leave some money with him; but he probably knows, that you can -be supplied no where else in the town, and, therefore, will not deny -himself the indulgence of his temper. Even when you are satisfied, his -manner is so ill, that he appears to consider you his dependent, by -wanting something which he can refuse. After perceiving, that this is -nearly general, the pain of making continual discoveries of idleness -and malignity becomes so much greater than the inconvenience of wanting -any thing short of necessaries, that you decline going into shops, and -wait for some easier opportunities of supplying whatever you may lose -upon the road. - - - - -COBLENTZ. - - -It is one post from Andernach hither, over a road, as good as any in -England. Beyond the dominions of the Elector of Cologne, the face of -the country, on this side of the Rhine, entirely changes its character. -The rocks cease, at Andernach, and a rich plain commences, along -which the road is led, at a greater distance from the Rhine, through -corn lands and uninclosed orchards. About a mile from Andernach, on -the other side of the river, the white town of Neuwiedt, the capital -of a small Protestant principality, is seen; and the general report, -that it is one of the most commercial places, on the Rhine, appeared -to be true from the cheerful neatness of the principal street, which -faces towards the water. There were also about twenty small vessels, -lying before it, and the quay seemed to be wide enough to serve as a -spacious terrace to the houses. The Prince's palace, an extensive stone -building, with a lofty orangery along the shore, is at the end of this -street, which, as well as the greatest part of the town, was built, or -improved under the auspices of his father; a wise prince, distinguished -by having negotiated, in 1735, a peace between the Empire and France, -when the continuance of the war had seemed to be inevitable. The -same benevolence led him to a voluntary surrender of many oppressive -privileges over his subjects, as well as to the most careful protection -of commerce and manufactures. Accordingly, the town of Neuwiedt has -been continually increasing in prosperity and size, for the last fifty -years, and the inhabitants of the whole principality are said to be as -much more qualified in their characters as they are happier in their -conditions than those of the neighbouring states. But then there is -the _wretchedness_ of a deficiency of game in the country, for the late -Prince was guilty of such an innovation as to mitigate the severity of -the laws respecting it. - -The forest hills, that rise behind Neuwiedt and over the rocky margin -of the river, extend themselves towards the more rugged mountains of -Wetteravia, which are seen, a shapeless multitude, in the east. - -The river is soon after lost to the view between high, sedgy banks; -but, near Coblentz, the broad bay, which it makes in conjunction -with the Moselle, is seen expanding between the walls of the city -and the huge pyramidal precipice, on which stands the fortress of -Ehrenbreitstein, or rather which is itself formed into that fortress. -The Moselle is here a noble river, by which the streams of a thousand -hills, covered with vines, pour themselves into the Rhine. The antient -stone bridge over it leads to the northern gate of Coblentz, and the -entrance into the city is ornamented by several large chateau-like -mansions, erected to command a view of the two rivers. A narrow street -of high, but antient houses then commences, and runs through the -place. Those, which branch from it, extend, on each side, towards the -walls, immediately within which there are others, that nearly follow -their course and encompass the city. Being built between two rivers, -its form is triangular, and only one side is entirely open to the -land; a situation so convenient both for the purposes of commerce and -war, that it could not be overlooked by the Romans, and was not much -neglected by the moderns, till the industry of maritime countries and -the complicated constitution of the Empire reduced Germany in the scale -of nations. This was accordingly the station of the first legion, -and the union of the two rivers gave it a name; _Confluentia_. At -the commencement of the modern division of nations, the successors -of Charlemagne frequently resided here, for the convenience of an -intercourse between the other parts of the Empire and France; but, -in the eleventh century, the whole territory of Treves regained the -distinction, as a separate country, which the Romans had given it, by -calling the inhabitants _Treveri_. - -Coblentz is a city of many spires, and has establishments of chapters -and monasteries, which make the great pride of German capitals, and -are sometimes the chief objects, that could distinguish them from the -neglected villages of other countries. The streets are not all narrow, -but few of them are straight; and the same pavement serves for the -horses of the Elector and the feet of his subjects. The port, or beach, -has the appearance of something more business than that of Andernach, -being the resort of passage-vessels between Mentz and Cologne; but -the broad quay, which has been raised above it, is chiefly useful as -a promenade to the visitors of a close and gloomy town. Beyond the -terrace stands the Elector's palace, an elegant and spacious stone -edifice, built to the height of three stories, and inclosing a court, -which is large enough to be light as well as magnificent. The front -towards the Rhine is simple, yet grand, the few ornaments being so well -proportioned to its size, as neither to debase it by minuteness, nor -encumber it by vastness. An entablature, displaying some allegorical -figures in bas relief, is supported by six Doric columns, which -contribute much to the majestic simplicity of the edifice. The palace -was built, about ten years since, by the reigning Elector, who -mentions, in an inscription, his attention to the architectural art; -and a fountain, between the building and the town, is inscribed with a -few words, which seem to acknowledge his subjects as beings of the -same species with himself; CLEMENS WINCESLAUS VICINIS SUIS. - -But the most striking parts of the view from this quay are the rock -and fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, that present themselves immediately -before it, on the other side of the river; notwithstanding the breadth -of which they appear, to rise almost perpendicularly over Coblentz. At -the base of the rock stands a large building, formerly the palace of -the Electors, who chose to reside under the immediate protection of -the fortress, rather than in the midst of their capital. Adjoining it -is the village of Ehrenbreitstein, between which and Coblentz a flying -bridge is continually passing, and, with its train of subordinate -boats, forms a very picturesque object from the quay. The fortress -itself consists of several tier of low walls, built wherever there was -a projection in the rock capable of supporting them, or wherever -the rock could be hewn so as to afford room for cannon and soldiers. -The stone, taken out of the mass, served for the formation of the -walls, which, in some places, can scarcely be distinguished from the -living rock. Above these tier, which are divided into several small -parts, according to the conveniences afforded by the cliff, is built -the castle, or citadel, covering its summit, and surrounded by walls -more regularly continued, as well as higher. Small towers, somewhat in -the antient form, defend the castle, which would be of little value, -except for its height, and for the gradations of batteries between it -and the river. Thus protected, it seems impregnable on that side, and -is said to be not much weaker on the other; so that the garrison, if -they should be willing to fire upon Coblentz, might make it impossible -for an enemy to remain within it, except under the cover of very high -entrenchments. This is the real defence of the city, for its walls -would presently fall before heavy artillery; and this, it is believed, -might be preserved as long as the garrison could be supplied with -stores. - -We crossed the river from the quay to the fortress, by means of the -very simple invention, a flying bridge. That, by which part of the -passage of the Waal is made at Nimeguen, has been already mentioned; -this is upon the same principle, but on a much larger scale. After -the barges, upon which the platform is laid, are clear of the bank, -the whole passage is effected with no other labour than that of the -rudder. A strong cable, which is fastened to an anchor at each side -of the river, is supported across it by a series of small boats; the -bridge has two low masts, one on each barge, and these are connected -at the top by a beam, over which the cable is passed, being confined -so as that it cannot slip beyond them. When the bridge is launched, -the rapidity of the current forces it down the Rhine as far as the -cable will permit: having reached that point, the force, received -from the current, gives it the only direction of which it is capable, -that across the river, with the cable which holds it. The steersman -manages two rudders, by which he assists in giving it this direction. -The voyage requires nine or ten minutes, and the bridge is continually -passing. The toll, which, for a foot passenger, is something less than -a penny, is paid, for the benefit of the Elector, at an office, on the -bank, and a sentinel always accompanies the bridge, to support his -government, during the voyage. - -The old palace of Ehrenbreitstein, deserted because of its dampness, -and from the fear of its being overwhelmed by the rock, that sometimes -scatters its fragments upon it, is now used as a barrack and hospital -for soldiers. It is a large building, even more pleasantly situated -than the new one, being opposite to the entrance of the Moselle into -the Rhine; and its structure, which has been once magnificent, denotes -scarcely any other decay, than all buildings will shew, after a few -years' neglect. The rock has allowed little room for a garden, but -there are some ridiculous ornaments upon a very narrow strip of ground, -which was probably intended for one. - -The only entrance into the fortress, on this side, is by a road, -cut in the solid rock, under four gateways. It is so steep, that we -were compelled to decline the honour of admission, but ascended it -far enough to judge of the view, commanded from the summit, and to -be behind the batteries, of which some were mounted with large brass -cannon. Coblentz lies beneath it, as open to inspection as a model upon -a table. The sweeps of the Rhine and the meanders of the Moselle, the -one binding the plain, the other intersecting it, lead the eye towards -distant hills, that encircle the capacious level. The quay of the city, -with the palace and the moving bridge, form an interesting picture -immediately below, and we were unwilling to leave the rock for the dull -and close streets of Coblentz. On our return, the extreme nakedness of -the new palace, which is not sheltered by trees, on any side, withdrew -our attention from the motley group of passengers, mingled with hay -carts and other carriages, on the flying bridge. - -The long residence of the emigrant princes and noblesse of France in -this city is to be accounted for not by its general accommodations, or -gaieties, of which it is nearly as deficient as the others of Germany; -but first by the great hospitality of the Elector towards them, and -then by the convenience of its situation for receiving intelligence -from France, and for communicating with other countries. The Elector -held frequent levies for the French nobility, and continued for them -part of the splendour which they had enjoyed in their own country. The -readiness for lending money upon property, or employments in France, -was also so great, that those, who had not brought cash with them, were -immediately supplied, and those, who had, were encouraged to continue -their usual expences. We know it from some of the best possible -authority, that, at the commencement of the march towards Longwy, -money, at four per cent. was even pressed upon many, and that large -sums were refused. - -Here, and in the neighbourhood, between sixty and seventy squadrons -of cavalry, consisting chiefly of those who had formerly enjoyed -military, or other rank, were formed; each person being mounted and -equipped chiefly at his own expence. We heard several anecdotes of -the confidence, entertained in this army, of a speedy arrival in Paris; -but, as the persons, to whom they relate, are now under the pressure of -misfortune, there would be as little pleasure as propriety in repeating -them. - -At Coblentz, we quitted, for a time, the left bank of the Rhine, in -order to take the watering place of Selters, in our way to Mentz. -Having crossed the river and ascended a steep road, near the fortress, -we had fine glimpses of its walls, bastions and out-towers, and the -heathy knolls, around them, with catches of distant country. The way -continued to lie through the dominions of the Elector of Treves, which -are here so distinguished for their wretchedness as to be named the -_Siberia of Germany_! It is paved, and called a _chaussée_; but those, -who have not experienced its ruggedness, can have no idea of it, -except by supposing the pavement of a street torn up by a plough, and -then suffered to fix itself, as it had fallen. Always steep, either -in ascent or descent, it is not only the roughness, that prevents -your exceeding the usual post-pace of three English miles an hour. -Sometimes it runs along edges of mountains, that might almost be called -precipices, and commands short views of other mountains and of vallies -entirely covered with thick, but not lofty forests; sometimes it buries -itself in the depths of such forests and glens; sometimes the turrets -of an old chateau peep above these, but rather confirm than contradict -the notion of their desolateness, having been evidently built for the -purposes of the chace; and sometimes a mud village surprises you with a -few inhabitants, emblems of the misery and savageness of the country. - -These are the mountains of Wetteravia, the boundaries of many a former -and far-seen prospect, then picturesque, sublime, or graceful, but -now desolate, shaggy, and almost hideous; as in life, that, which -is so grand as to charm at a distance, is often found to be forlorn, -disgustful and comfortless by those, who approach it. - - - - -MONTABAUR. - - -Six hours after leaving Coblentz, we reached Montabaur, the first -post-town on the road, and distant about eighteen miles. An ancient -chateau, not strong enough to be a castle, nor light enough to be a -good house, commands the town, and is probably the residence of the -lord. The walls and gates shew the antiquity of Montabaur, but the -ruggedness of its site should seem to prove, that there was no other -place in the neighbourhood, on which a town could be built. Though it -is situated in a valley, as to the nearer mountains, it is constructed -chiefly on two sides of a narrow rock, the abrupt summit of which is -in the centre of this very little place. - -The appearance of Montabaur is adequate in gloominess to that of -several before seen; but it would be endless to repeat, as often as -they should be true, the descriptions of the squalidness and decay, -that characterise German towns; nor should we have noticed these so -often, if the negligence of others, in this respect, had not left us -to form deceitful expectations, suitable to the supposed importance of -several very conspicuous, but really very wretched cities. - - - - -LIMBOURG. - - -Over a succession of forest mountains, similar to those just passed, -we came, in the afternoon, to Limbourg, another post-town, or, -perhaps, city, and another collection of houses, like tombs, or -forsaken hospitals. At an inn, called the Three Kings, we saw first the -sullenness and then the ferocious malignity of a German landlord and -his wife, exemplified much more fully than had before occurred. When we -afterwards expressed our surprise, that the magistrates should permit -persons of such conduct to keep an inn, especially where there was only -one, we learned, that this fellow was himself the chief magistrate, or -burgomaster of the place; and his authority appeared in the fearfulness -of his neighbours to afford any sort of refreshment to those, who had -left his inn. One of the Elector's ministers, with whom we had the -pleasure to be acquainted, informed us, that he knew this man, and that -he must have been intoxicated, for that, though civil when sober, he -was madly turbulent and abusive, if otherwise. It appeared, therefore, -that a person was permitted to be a magistrate, who, to the knowledge -of government, was exposed by his situation to be intoxicated, and -was outrageous, whenever he was so. So little is the order of society -estimated here, when it is not connected with the order of politics. - -Near Limbourg, the forest scenery, which had shut up the view, during -the day, disappeared, and the country lost, at least, an uniformity -of savageness. The hills continue, but they are partly cultivated. At -a small distance from the town, a steep ascent leads to a plain, on -which a battle was fought, during the short stay of the French in this -district, in the campaign of 1792. Four thousand French were advancing -towards Limbourg; a small Prussian corps drew up to oppose them, and -the engagement, though short, was vivid, for the Prussians did not -perceive the superiority of the French in numbers, till the latter -began to spread upon the plain, for the purpose of surrounding them. -Being then compelled to retreat, they left several of the Elector's -towns open to contribution, from which five-and-twenty thousand florins -were demanded, but the remonstrances of the magistrates reduced this -sum to 8000 florins, or about 700l. The French then entered Limbourg, -and extended themselves over the neighbouring country. At Weilbourg, -the residence of a Prince of the House of Nassau, they required 300,000 -florins, or 25,000l. which the Prince neither had, nor could collect, -in two days, through his whole country. All his plate, horses, coaches, -arms and six pieces of cannon, were brought together, for the purpose -of removal; but afterwards two individuals were accepted as hostages, -instead of the Prince himself, who had been at first demanded. The -action near Limbourg took place on the 9th of November, and, before -the conclusion of the month, the French had fallen back to Franckfort, -upon the re-approach of the Prussian and Austrian troops. - - - - -SELTERS. - - -We had a curiosity to see this place, which, under the name of Seltzer, -is so celebrated throughout Europe, for its medicinal water. Though it -is rather in the high road to Franckfort than to Mentz, there seemed -no probability of inconvenience in making this short departure from -our route, when it was to be joined again from a place of such public -access as Selters appeared likely to be found. - -About seven miles from Limbourg, a descent commences, at the bottom -of which stands this village. What a reproof to the expectation -of comfort, or convenience in Germany! Selters, a spot, to which a -valetudinarian might be directed, with the prospect of his finding not -only abundant accommodation, but many luxuries, Selters is literally -and positively nothing more than an assemblage of miserable cottages, -with one inn and two houses for officers of the Elector, stuck in a -dirty pass, which more resembles a ditch than a road. The village may -be said to be near half a mile long, because the huts, being mostly -separated from each other, continue as far; and this length would -increase its inconvenience to invalids, if such should ever stay there -longer than to see it, for there is nothing like a swept path-way, and -the road, in which they must walk, is probably always deeply covered -with mud, being so when we were there in the beginning of July. There -was then, however, not one stranger, besides ourselves, in the place, -and we found, that very rarely any aggravate the miseries of sickness -by a stay at Selters. - -The only lodgings to be had are at the inn, and fortunately for -travellers this is not such as might be expected from the appearance of -the village. Finding there the novelty of an obliging host and hostess, -we were very well contented to have reached it, at night, though we -were to stay there also the next day, being Sunday. The rooms are as -good as those in the inns of German cities, and three, which are called -Court Chambers, having been used by the Elector and lately by the King -of Prussia, are better. These are as open as the others to strangers. - -The spring is at the foot of one of several hills, which immediately -surround the village, and is separated from the road by a small court -yard. An oaken covering, at the height of ten or twelve feet, prevents -rain from falling into the wooden bason, in which the stream rises; -and two or three of the Elector's guards watch over it, that no -considerable quantity may be taken, without payment of the duty, which -forms a large part of his income. Many thousands of stone bottles are -piled round this court, and, for the reputation of the spring, care is -taken to fill them as immediately as possible, before their removal for -exportation. - -The policy of keeping this income intire is said to be a motive for -neglecting the condition of the village. A duty could not well be -demanded of those, who should drink at the spring, but is easily -collected before the water is bottled for removal; it is, therefore, -not wished, that there should be many visitors, at Selters. We did -not hear this reason upon the spot, but it is difficult otherwise -to account for a negligence, which prevents the inhabitants of the -neighbouring country from being enriched at the expence of wanderers -from others. - -Nor is it only a duty, but the whole profit of the traffick, till the -water leaves the place, which rewards the care of the Elector. His -office for the sale of it is established here, and his agents alone -transmit it into foreign countries. The business is sufficient to -employ several clerks, and the number of bottles annually filled is so -immense, that, having omitted to write it down, we will not venture to -mention it from memory. The water is brought to table constantly and -at an easy price in all the towns near the Rhine. Mixed with Rhenish -wine and sugar it forms a delightful, but not always a safe beverage, -in hot weather. The acid of the wine, expelling the fixed air of other -ingredients, occasions an effervescence, like that of Champagne, but -the liquor has not a fourth part of the obnoxious strength of the -latter. The danger of drinking it is, that the acid may be too powerful -for some constitutions. - -After being surprised by the desolateness of the village, we were not -less so to find amongst its few inhabitants one, whose manners and -information, so far from bearing the character of the dreariness around -him, were worthy of the best society in the most intelligent cities. -This was the Commissary and Privy Counsellor of the Elector for the -district, who, having heard, that there were some English visitors at -the well, very frankly introduced himself to us by his civilities, and -favoured us with his company in the afternoon. He had been in England, -with many valuable introductions, and had formed from the talents and -accomplishments of a distinguished Marquis an high opinion of the -national character; a circumstance, which probably united with his -natural disposition, in inducing him to emulate towards us the general -politeness of that truly honourable person. - -When we enquired how the journey of the next day was to be performed, -it appeared, that no other carriage could be hired in the place than -a sort of one-horse chair, which would take us to the next post town, -from whence we might proceed with the usual chaises. The driver walked -at the side of this uncouth carriage, which had shafts and wheels -strong enough for a waggon; and, either by the mistake or intention of -his master in directing him, we were led, not to the post town, for a -chaise, if it could be had, but entirely through a forest country to -Mentz, by roads made only for the woodcutters, and, as it afterwards -proved, known to few others, except to our ingenious voiturier. We did -not pass a town, or village, at which it was possible to change the -carriage, and had, therefore, no other alternative, when the mistake -was discovered, than to return to Selters, or to proceed to Mentz, in -this inconvenient and ludicrous vehicle. We chose to proceed, and had -some reward for fatigue, by passing nearly an whole day under the shade -of deep and delightful forests, little tamed by the hand of man, and -appearing to acknowledge only "the season's difference." - -Between Selters and these forests, the country is well cultivated, and -frequently laid out in garden-fields, in which there was the first -appearance of cheerful labour we had seen in Germany. After passing a -small town, on the summit of a hill to the left, still surrounded by -its antient fortifications, we entered a large plain, skirted, on one -side, by villages; another town, at the end of which, was almost the -last sign of an inhabited country, that appeared for several hours. -The forest then commenced, and, with the exception of one hamlet, -enveloped near the middle, we saw nothing but lofty oaks, elms and -chesnuts, till we emerged from it in the afternoon, and came to a town -of the Landgrave of Hesse Darmstadt. Roebucks are said to be numerous, -and wild boars not very scarce, in this forest; but we saw none either -here, or in those near Limbourg, which are much inferior to this in -beauty. Upon the whole, it was a scene of perfect novelty; without -which it now seems that we should have wanted many ideas of sylvan life -and much of the delight, excited by Shakespeare's exquisite description -of it. - -The country afterwards opens towards - - - - -MENTZ, - - -Which stands in a spacious plain, on the opposite edge of the Rhine, -and is visible, at a considerable distance, with its massy towers and -numerous spires. Within two or three miles of the city, the symptoms -of ruin, occasioned by the siege in 1793, began to appear. A village, -on the left, had scarcely one house entire; and the tower of the -church was a mere wreck, blackened by flames, and with large chasms, -that admitted the light. The road did not pass nearer to it than two -miles, but the broken walls and roofs were distinguishable even at that -distance, and sometimes a part, which had been repaired, contrasted its -colour with the black and smoky hues of the remainder. This was the -village of Kostheim, so often contended for in the course of the siege, -being on the opposite bank of the Rhine to the city, and capable of -obstructing the intercourse with it by water. - -The country on the eastern side of the river was otherwise but little -damaged, if we except the destruction of numerous orchards; for the -allies were not strong enough to besiege the city on all sides at -once, and contented themselves with occupying some posts in this -quarter, capable of holding the garrison of Cassel in awe. - -This Cassel is a small village exactly opposite to Mentz, and -communicating with it by a bridge of boats. It was unfortified before -the invasion of the French; but these had no sooner entered the city, -than they perceived the importance of such a place, and prepared -themselves to render it a regular fortress. In about two months they -completely surrounded it with earthen works and outworks, ditched and -pallisadoed. Some of the nearest orchards were cut down to be used in -these fortifications. The fruit trees still remain with their branches -upwards from the ditch, and serve instead of _chevaux de frise_. - -The village of Hockheim, which is also on this side of the Rhine, is -further to the left than Kostheim, and remains uninjured, at the top -of the round and easy hill, the vines of which are so much celebrated -for their flavour, as to give a name to great quantities of wine, -produced in other districts. After the siege, the merchants of the -neighbourhood enhanced the price of their stocks by reporting, that all -the vineyards had been destroyed; but the truth is, that Hockheim was -not much contended for, and that little damage was done even to the -crops then in bloom. The village is advantageously situated about the -confluence of the Rhine and the Maine, and, if it had been nearer the -city, would probably have been so important, as to have been contested, -till it was destroyed. - -This is the home ground of the scene, which spreads before the -traveller, who approaches Mentz from the eastern shore of the Rhine. -Furthest to the left is Hockheim, then the devastated village of -Kostheim, then the fortifications of Cassel, which, with the river, -are between him and the city. Beyond, the horizon is bounded on all -sides by gradual hills, distant and apparently fruitful; but those to -the north are pre-eminent, with gentle slopes at their feet, coloured -sweetly by corn, dark wood and gleams of reddish earth. - -The works of Cassel render the approach to the city very tedious, for -they have been so contrived as that the road nearly follows them, in -all their angles, for the purpose of being commanded by many points -at once. The village was now garrisoned by Prussians, of whom, some -were lying under the sheds of their guard-house near the bridge, and -others were riding over it, with just speed enough to give one an idea -of military earnestness. Their horses shook the floor of the bridge of -boats, which here crosses the Rhine, at its breadth of nearly eight -hundred feet, and disturbed the promenade, for which it is usually -frequented in an evening. We followed them, admiring the expanse, -and rapidity of the river more than the appearance of the city, where -gloominess is too much mingled with grandeur; till, at the end of the -bridge, we were stopped at another guard-house, to answer the usual -enquiries. A soldier accompanied us thence to a large square filled -with cannon and mortars, where the captain of the guard examined our -passport. We were then very glad to pass the evening at an inn without -further researches; but there were some symptoms of the late condition -of the city to attract attention in the way. - -The Elector's palace, which forms one side of this square, having been -converted into an hospital by the French, is still used as such, or -as a barrack, by the Prussians; and the windows were crowded with the -figures of half-dressed soldiers. Many of the cannon in the square -remained with the fractures, made by the balls of the besiegers. This -place communicates with a broad street, in which were many buildings, -filled with soldiers, and an handsome house, that, having belonged to -one of the Clubbists, was destroyed immediately after the expulsion of -the French. The walls still remain bare and open. Some greater ruins, -occasioned by fire, during the siege, were visible at a distance; and, -upon the whole, we had interest enough excited, as to the immediate -history of the place, to take little notice of the narrow and difficult -passages, through which we wound for half an hour, after leaving the -principal street. - -The next morning, the friends, to whom we had letters, began to conduct -us through the melancholy curiosities, left in the city by the siege. -These are chiefly in the southern quarter, against which the direct -attack of the allies was made, and their approaches most advanced. Some -entire streets have been destroyed here, and were still in ruins. -A magnificent church, attached to a convent of Franciscan monks, is -among the most lamentable spectacles; what was the roof now lies in -heaps over the pavement; not a vestige of furniture, or decoration, -has escaped the flames, and there are chasms in the walls larger than -the noble windows, that once illuminated them. This church and convent -were set on fire by a bomb; and of the sick soldiers, who were lodged -in the latter, it is feared that but few were removed before the -destruction of the building. We next saw the remains of a palace, built -by the present Provost of the Chapter of Nobles; an institution, which -is so rich, that their Superior had a more elegant residence than the -Elector. It was of stone, and the principal front was in the Corinthian -order, six columns of which supported a spacious open gallery, -ornamented with statues, for its whole length. The wings formed -two sides of a square, which separated the palace from the street. -A profusion of the richest furniture and a valuable collection of -paintings filled the interior. Of the whole edifice little now remains -but the shattered walls of the centre, which have been so scorched as -to lose all appearance of having belonged to a splendid structure. -It was burnt the night before the fire of the Franciscan church, and -two nights after the French had removed their head quarters and their -municipality from it. On the day before the removal, a bomb had fallen -upon the French General Blou, destroying him on the spot, and mortally -wounding an officer, with whom he was conversing. The ruins are now so -accumulated over the court-yard, that we could not discern it to have -ever had that appendage of a distinguished residence. - -But the church of Notre Dame was the most conspicuous of many ruined -objects. The steeple of this had been one of the grandest ornaments -of the city; a shower of bombs set fire to it; and, while it was thus -rendered an easy mark for the besiegers, their cannon played upon -and beat a great part of it to the ground. By its fall the roof of -the church was shattered, but the body did not otherwise suffer any -material injury. Wooden galleries have been raised round the remainder -of the steeple, not for the purpose of repairing, but for that of -entirely removing it; and, to save the trouble of letting down the -stones on the outside, a wooden pipe, or channel has been made, through -which they are lowered into the church. The appearance of this steeple, -which was once very large and lofty, is rendered striking by these -preparations for its total destruction. - -The whole church is built of a stone, dug from the neighbouring hills, -the colour of which is so delicate a pink, that it might be supposed -to be given by art. The Elector's palace and several other public -buildings in the city are formed of this stone. - -Passing through the gates on this side of Mentz, we came to a slope -near the river, and beyond the glacis of the place, which was then -partly covered with huge masses of stone scattered among the roots -of broken trees and shrubs, that had begun again to shoot their -verdure over the amputated trunks. This was the site of a palace of -the Elector, called, both from the beauty of its situation, and the -splendour of its structure, La Favorita. The apartments of the palace -and the terraces of the garden commanded extensive views of the Rhine -and the surrounding country ascending from its banks; and the gardens -themselves were so beautifully disposed as to be thought worthy of -the name of English. They were ornamented with pavilions, which had -each its distinct prospect, and with one music room in the thickest -part of the shrubbery. Of the building nothing is now visible but some -disjointed stones; and of the garden, only the broken trunks of trees. -The palace was burned and the gardens levelled by the French, that they -might not afford shelter to the Prussians, during the siege. - -From this spot we were shewn the positions of the allied forces, -the course of their approaches and the chief outworks of the city. -Hockheim, Kostheim and Cassel lay before us, on the other side of the -river; a gentle rise on this side, at the distance of nearly a mile, -was the first station of the allies, part of whose force was covered -behind it; their last batteries were within two hundred and fifty paces -of the city. The ground had been since levelled, and was now covered -with standing corn, but the track of the trenches was, in some places, -visible. On the other hand, the forts, in which the strength of the -whole so much consists, were completely repaired, and had no appearance -of having been so lately attacked. They are five in number, and, being -raised at a considerable distance from the walls of the city, no -near approaches can be made, till some of them are either taken, or -destroyed; for they are said to be regular and strong fortifications, -capable of containing numerous garrisons, and communicating with the -city itself by passages, cut in the ground, through which they may be -constantly reinforced. - -Only one of these five forts, that nearest to the river, was destroyed -in the late siege, which would have been much more tedious, but for -the want of provisions and medicines, that began to be felt in the -garrison. The walls of the city were almost uninjured, so that it has -not been thought necessary to repair them in the few places, where -balls may be perceived to have struck. The bombardment was the chief -annoyance of the garrison, who were not sheltered in caserns, and whose -magazines, both of ammunition and provision, were frequently destroyed -by it. Their numbers were also greatly reduced by sallies and by -engagements, on the other side of the Rhine, in defence of Cassel, or -in attack of part of an island, called the Bleiau. - -We walked round the city upon what is termed the _glacis_, that is upon -the slope, which ascends from the plain towards the top of the ditch, -and which is the furthest of the defensive works, being very gradually -raised, that those, who are upon it, may be exposed, at every step, to -the fire from the walls. The forts, which are formed of solid earthen -works, covered with turf, would scarcely attract the notice of an -unmilitary eye, if the channelled passages to them did not issue from -this slope, and if the sentinels, stalking upon the parapets, did not -seem of a gigantic size, by having their whole figures raised against -the light. - -Mentz was at this time the depôt of stores for the Prussian army on the -Rhine, and there were persons employed upon the _glacis_, in counting -heaps of cannon balls, which had been delivered from some neighbouring -foundery. On the bank of the river, others were throwing waggon-loads -of hay into large barges, on which it was piled to such an height, that -small passages were cut through it for the rowers to work in. There -were nine or ten barges so filled; and in these labours more activity -was apparent than in any other transactions we saw at Mentz. - -Having passed round the city, between the walls and the forts, which -protect them, to the north, west and south, we came, at this latter -side, to some other signals of a theatre of war. Here had been a -noble alley of at least a mile and a half long, formed of poplars as -large and high as elms, and surrounded, on each side, by plantations, -intersected by small and irregular walks. Being led along the banks -of the Rhine, this alley, with its adjoining groves, afforded a most -delightful promenade, and was classed amongst the best ornaments, given -to the river, in its whole course. This also was destroyed upon the -approach of the besiegers, that it might not afford them shelter. The -trunks of the sturdy trees, cut at the height of one or two feet from -the ground, shew, by their solidity and the abundance of their vigorous -shoots, how long they might have flourished, but for this disaster. - -An Englishman, walking amidst the ensigns of such artificial and -premature desolation, cannot help considering the natural security of -his country, and rejoicing, that, even if the strong and plain policy -of neglecting all foreign consequence, and avoiding all foreign -interests, except the commercial ones, which may be maintained by a -navy, should for ever be rejected, still his home cannot be invaded; -and, though the expence of wars should make poverty general, the -immediate horrors of them cannot enter the cities, or the cottages of -an island. - -Great part of our time at Mentz was occupied by enquiries concerning -the siege, which was not so much a topic as we had expected to find -it. We probably heard, however, all that was to be told, and had a -German pamphlet recommended, containing the history of the place from -the first invasion of the French to their departure. The authenticity -of this was assured to us; and it is partly from it, partly from the -accounts given by our friends, that the following short narrative has -been extracted. - - - - -OF MENTZ IN 1792 AND 1793. - - -The entrance of a French army into Worms, in the beginning of October -1792, had excited a considerable alarm in Mentz, before the inhabitants -of the latter city received the accounts, which were not long wanting, -of express and avowed preparations for a march towards them. Great -numbers of French emigrants had been drawn to the city by the meeting -of the Emperor and the King of Prussia there, a few months before; -many had arrived since the dissolution of their army in Champagne; -and, during the approach of the Republican troops to Spires and Worms, -families were continually passing through the city, joining those, who -began to take their flight from it. The narrow streets were filled -with carriages, and the distressful haste of the travellers served to -depress the spirits of the inhabitants, who saw how little their -city was thought capable of defence. On the 15th of October, Baron -d'Albini, a counsellor of the Court, called the Burgesses together, -and admonished them to make preparations for their security; he also -enquired, whether they thought it prudent, that the Elector should -remain in the city with them? and, it being readily answered, that they -did not, the Elector set out for Wurtzburg, a town about 100 miles -distant, and was followed by the members of the government. At the same -time, a considerable emigration of the other inhabitants took place. - -The approach of the French had been so little foreseen, till within -the few last weeks, that the garrison did not amount to a tenth part -of the war complement. The inhabitants, however, having happily had -little experience of sieges, did not know what this complement should -be, and, after the first alarm, began to think the deficiency might -be easily remedied. The Electoral troops, having sent some useless -detachments to Spires, amounted to only 968 men, to whom an hundred -were added, obtained from Nassau, Oranien, Weilburg, Bieberich and Fuld -by the Elector's demands of assistance from his neighbours. Two hundred -and seven Austrian hussars of Esterhazy had also arrived, on the 13th, -and all the inhabitants of the Rheingau, a populous district, bordering -upon the Rhine, were summoned to the assistance of the capital. The -antient society of Archers of the city laid down their bows for -musquets; the Academicians formed themselves into a corps, and were -placed, together with the Archers, at several outposts. The traders, -though exempt from personal service, and unwilling to surrender that -privilege, resolved to pay double watch-money for substitutes. It began -to be thought, that the threatened progress of the French had been -untruly reported; that the siege could not be commenced at that late -season of the year; and lastly, that some promised reinforcements of -Austrian troops could not be far off. - -But, on the 19th of October, the French, in four columns, began to -surround the place. They wore, at first, white cockades, expecting to -be mistaken for the army of M. de Condé; they were, however, known, -and fired upon. Though some days had been passed in preparation, it -was now found, that there was little readiness for defence. The best -artillerymen had been lost at Spires; there were, at first, no horses -to draw the cannon, so that oxen were used for that purpose; the -nearest balls to the batteries of twenty-four pound cannon were cast -for twelve-pounders; and many of the musquet cartridges could not -be fired. In a few hours, however, several of the artisans applied -themselves to the making of cartridges; horses were supplied by the -servants of the Court and the Nobility, and all hands were, in some -way or other, employed. It was then reported, that a corps of Austrian -troops was in the neighbourhood, and, on the 19th, 1800 men entered the -city. These were recruits without ammunition, and, for the most part, -without arms, being on their march to join the army of the Emperor. -They were then under the command of two or three subalterns; but some -other Imperial officers came in from the neighbourhood, and arms were -obtained from the Elector's arsenal. After this reinforcement there -were probably about four thousand men in arms in the city. - -With this force, it is allowed, that a much longer defence than was -made might have been expected; and, unless there was some failure of -the commander's attention, the treachery of an engineer, to whom the -surrender is imputed, could certainly not have been so effectual. -EIKENMAYER, this engineer, had, it seems, made known to the French -the commander's preparations for defence; intelligence, which, if the -preparations had been greater, could have been but little serviceable -to the assailants. His chief assistance was afforded to them by much -more conspicuous means; for, as the inhabitants went frequently to a -building called St. Stephen's Tower, to observe the progress of the -besiegers, he assured them, that the army, which really amounted only -to eleven thousand men, consisted of forty thousand; that they had -with them two-and-twenty waggons, laden with scaling ladders, and that -the city would presently be taken by storm. The same representations -of the besiegers' force were also made by him to the Council of War; -and these, it is said, determined them to the surrender, before the -French had raised a battery against the works. - -Many of the citizens, however, were surprised and enraged at this -resolution; and the captain of the Austrian reinforcements expressed -his displeasure, at the Council House, where he declared, that he would -continue to defend the place, even without permission. In the mean -time, the capitulation was signed, and he was induced to submit to it -by the solicitations even of the citizens, by whom it was blamed, and -by their representations, that, in the present agitated temper of the -inhabitants, all attempts at defence must be useless. - -Baron d'ALBINI carried news of the surrender to the Elector, at -Wurtzburg, and, about five o'clock, on the 21st of October, two French -officers came to the Council House, followed by two companies of -grenadiers. On the 22d, eight thousand French entered the city, the -other three thousand having marched, the preceding day, to Franckfort; -the inhabitants, astonished to find themselves taken by so small a -force, now saw, to their still greater surprise, that their conquerors -had scarcely any heavy cannon. This day was passed in assigning -quarters to the troops, and, on the next, Custine, the commander of the -French, called the members of the City Council together, to whom, in -a short speech, he promised the protection of persons and properties, -inviting them, at the same time, to promote the fraternization of the -inhabitants with the French nation. Professor BOHMER, who had accepted -the office of his Secretary, translated this address into German, and -it was circulated through the city. - -It is remarkable, that the French had no sooner taken possession of -this sudden prize, than they began to foresee the probability of -being reduced to defensive measures, and to prepare for them. They -immediately collected contributions of forage and corn from the -neighbouring villages; the streets were rendered almost impassable by -the loads brought in; and, as the magazines were soon filled, great -quantities were wasted by being exposed to the rain in gardens, and -trodden under the feet of horses in the streets. The garrison was soon -increased to 20,000 men, of whom sometimes three hundred sometimes -five hundred were lodged in each convent. The French soldiery having -committed some excesses, Custine reproved their licentiousness, and -began to habituate them to discipline by ordering a retirement to their -quarters, at certain hours, by beat of drum. - -The inhabitants soon began to suspect the contrivance and the persons, -that had produced the surrender; for Eikenmayer lived in intimacy with -Custine; Professor Metternich, of the Academy of Mentz, mounted the -French cockade; and the Elector's physician, having left the city, -upon a promise of assisting some peasants, whom he asserted to be -seized with an infectious fever, had carried on a correspondence with -the French, as had PATOKI, a merchant, born at Colmar, who had lately -received the right of citizenship. - -The palaces of the Elector and the Provost were now ransacked; and, -though it had been published as a rule, that the property of private -individuals should not be touched, the houses of the nobility were -treated, as if they had belonged to the Prince. The profligacy and -pride of Custine became every day more conspicuous, and were oppressive -upon the garrison, as well as the inhabitants, though in a less degree. -Johannesberg, a village upon the Rhine, at the distance of a few miles, -is celebrated for its wines, which sell for three times the price of -those of Hockheim. Custine sent a part of the garrison solely to bring -him the wines from the cellars of the Prince of Fuld, who has a palace -there; but, a compromise being proposed, the negotiation was protracted -so long, that a Prussian corps, for which the Prince had sent, carried -Johannesberg, before the terms were concluded. The Prince saved his -money, and lost only eighteen barrels of wine, of which part was sent -to Paris, and the rest supplied the entertainments given by Custine. - -Those of the Germans, who attached themselves to Custine, supplied him -with information of the state of the whole country. His Secretary, -Professor Bohmer, had begun the institution of a Club so early as -the 22d of October; but this society is thought to have become -inconvenient, and they soon after began to prepare for a National -Convention in Mentz. - -In the mean time, Cassel was surveyed, and the fortifications, for -which Eikenmayer is said to have furnished the design, were commenced. -The neighbouring peasants were summoned to work at these, at the price -of fifteen French sous, or about seven pence halfpenny a day; and -intrenchments were thrown round Kostheim. - -On the 17th of December, Custine published a proclamation, in which he -stated, that, whereas some persons had supposed the King of Prussia -to have so little respect for his character as to have invited him to -a surrender, none should presume, on pain of death, to speak of such -a measure, in future. This proclamation gave the inhabitants of Mentz -information, that the Prussians were approaching. Some German troops -had, indeed, begun by degrees to occupy the ground about Coblentz, but -in a condition, which did not promise active measures, being weakened -by a long march and by sickness; the Hessians posted themselves -between Hanau and Franckfort; and the Prussians advanced so near to the -latter city, that the scattered parties of the French retired to, and -at length lost it. - -About this time, an Electoral Professor of Philosophy and a Canon of -Mentz, named Dorsel, who had left his posts, in the preceding year, to -be naturalized, at Strasbourg, returned with a design for an union of -Spires, Worms and Mentz into one territory, under the protection of the -French. He procured the substitution of a Municipality for the City -Council. He obtained considerable influence in the city; and, on the -1st of January 1793, when the three Commissioners of the Convention, -Reubell, Merlin and Haussman, entered Mentz, and were received by -Custine with military honours, they shewed more attention to the -Professor than to the General. - -The Prussian head quarters had been established within a short -distance of Mentz; but, during all December, there had been only -affairs of advanced posts, so that some tranquillity prevailed in the -city. On the 6th of January, Hockheim was assailed by six thousand -Prussians; the French, however, had been informed of the preparations -for attack, and had time to retire to Kostheim and Cassel, leaving 112 -prisoners and twelve pieces of cannon. Some French, who had concealed -themselves in the church tower, were thrown headlong from it, for -having shouted, or thrown stones at the King of Prussia, as he passed. - -After this, another month passed, without hostile attempts on either -side. The Prussian troops were refreshed by rest; the French passed -the same time, partly in balls, to which all the ladies of Mentz -were invited, and partly in preparations for defence. On the 17th of -January, a small tree of liberty, which had been planted in November, -was removed, and a fir, seventy feet high, placed in its stead, with -much ceremony. All the inhabitants were pressingly invited, upon this -occasion; Messrs. Reubell, Merlin, Haussman and Custine attended; the -Mayor, Municipality, and the Members of the Clubs followed; the ensigns -of the former government were burned; Custine called upon the music of -the garrison for French airs, which occupied the rest of the day; and -the evening concluded with entertainments and dancing. Soon after, the -Commissioners left the city, and proceeded on a journey to the Moselle. - -On the 16th of February, Custine published a proclamation, and two -new Commissioners, who had just arrived, issued another, founded upon -a decree of the French Convention, relative to the union of other -countries with France. The Council House was full from morning till -night; the assembled traders declared their adherence to the Germanic -system; and the new Commissioners seemed inclined to listen to their -remonstrances. But, when the three former Commissioners returned, they -treated the Deputies of the trades with great haughtiness, and refused -them permission to send agents to Paris. A second deputation, on the -22d of February, was no better received, and they were informed, that -the 24th was the day for the commencement of the new form. The traders -are described to have been much affected, at the return of their -Deputies. On the 23d of February, early in the morning, the author of a -remonstrance, which had been presented, was arrested and carried into -banishment, being accompanied by guards to the advanced posts of the -Prussians, at Hockheim. - -The inhabitants now began to leave the city by passports, which -were, however, not easily procured, or used. A proclamation by the -Municipality divided Mentz into sections, and directed the manner, in -which each section should elect a representative, on the 24th. On that -day, the streets were unusually silent, all the former burgesses having -resolved to remain in their houses, except one, and only 266 persons -met to take the new oath and to make the new elections. On the 25th, -another proclamation came out, and several banishments succeeded; but -the burgesses still adhered to their resolution. The Municipality, on -the 1st of March, again invited them to take the new oaths, and gave -notice of an order of the Commissioners to the Mayor, to publish a -list of the sworn and unsworn, on the Monday or Tuesday following. -Notwithstanding this, the number of sworn did not equal 350. - -Some of the neighbouring villages, which were visited by the French -Commissioners, accepted their terms; the greater part refused them. - -At Worms, where clubs, similar to those at Mentz, had been formed, 1051 -persons took the oaths. The inhabitants of Bingen refused them. - -In the mean time, some expeditions were made into the Palatinate, and -corn, to the amount of sixty thousand florins, was taken away, before -the reiterated remonstrances of the Palatine Resident at Mentz, upon -the subject of his master's neutrality, could restrain them. In the -first days of February, the French had also entered Deux Ponts, where -the Duke relied so much upon his having supplied only his contingent -to the treasure of the Empire, that he had not left his palace, though -he knew of their approaches to his country. On the 9th, at eleven at -night, the Duke and Duchess fled, with the utmost precipitation, to -Manheim, having left the palace only one hour before the French -entered it. Great quantities of forage were swept away from this -country, and brought to Mentz, which the allies now approached so -nearly, that the garrison hastily completed the fortifications of -Cassel, and filled the magazines with stores, lest the communication -should be cut off by the destruction of the bridge. - -On the 15th of February, they had begun to destroy the palace of _La -Favorita_, and to erect a battery upon its ruins. Though the carriage -of provisions now occupied so much of their attention, a great number -of large and small cannon were brought from Landau; fresh troops -arrived, and General Wimpfen, who had defended Thionville against the -King of Prussia, was declared the first in command. By banishments -and emigration, the number of persons in the city was reduced fifteen -thousand. - -The new National Assembly met in Mentz, on the 10th of March, that -city having chosen six deputies, Spires two, Worms two, and some other -places one each. On the 17th, they had their first sitting, and, on -the 18th, declared all the country between Landau and Bingen, which -places were then the limits of the French posts near the Rhine, united -in one independent state. On the 19th, was agitated the great question -relative to the connections of this state, and it was not till the -21st, that they declared their incorporation with the French. Three -deputies, FORSTER, PATOKI and LUCKS were appointed, the next day, to -carry this resolution to Paris; and several decrees, relative to the -interior administration of this state, were passed, in consequence of -which many persons were conducted over the bridge into banishment, on -the 30th. - -Accounts now arrived, that the siege would shortly commence, and -orders were issued, relative to the prevention of fires, to the -collection of stores of provisions by each family, and to several -other domestic particulars. All the inhabitants, those especially in -the neighbourhood of the granaries, were directed to preserve large -quantities of water; and the proprietors of gardens within the city -were ordered to plant them with herbs. Officers were sent round to -examine these gardens. Already each family had been admonished to -provide subsistence for seven months; and the richer class were now -directed to furnish a loan to the burgesses, that the latter might be -enabled to provide for the poor. In consequence of this order, 38,646 -florins 10 creitzers, or about 3200l. were collected, and expended for -provisions. The gardens and walks round the city were now dismantled of -their trees, of which those in the _Rheinallee_, before mentioned, were -an hundred years old. All the summer-houses and villas, within cannon -shot of the city, were destroyed. - -On the 8th of March, the French garrison in the fortress of Konigstein, -which the Prussians had blockaded for some months, surrendered. In this -month also other advances were made towards Mentz. The Prussian General -Schonfield brought 12,000 men into the neighbourhood of Hockheim, near -which the Saxons were posted; the King of Prussia, his son and the Duke -of Brunswick, who had passed part of the winter at Franckfort, left -it, on the 23d of March; a bridge was laid, at St. Goar, over which -numerous bodies of Prussian troops passed the Rhine; the French fell -back towards Bingen, and the Prussians occupied a hill, not far from -it. On the 28th, they were closer pressed, and left all the villages in -the neighbourhood of Bingen, from which place they were driven, the -next day, by a bombardment. - -At the same time, a similar retreat towards Mentz also took place from -the southward. At Worms, during the abandonment, great quantities of -hay and straw were burned, and the burgesses kept watch, all night, -dreading the conflagration of the whole city by the flames, rising from -the magazines. Immense masses of hay and straw were also burned at -Frankenthal, where there had been a garrison, during the whole winter; -but the corn was carried away. At Spires, early on the 31st of March, -the burgesses and troops were employed in throwing the hay and straw -from the magazines into the ditch; but it appeared that even this mode -would not be expeditious enough, and fire was at length set to the -whole store at once. - -In the retreat from Oppenheim, though the French were under -considerable difficulties, they were upon the point of obtaining what -they would have thought an abundant reward for them. It was on the -30th of March, that their cavalry and flying artillery took the road -by Alsheim. As this was a place capable of making some defence, and -there were Prussian troops visible at the gates, they began the attack -by planting cannon, and directing a vigorous fire upon it. The King -of Prussia, who was at dinner in the town, and had not an hundred men -with him, received his first intelligence of their approach from this -fire. He immediately rode out, on the opposite side, and, sending some -hussars to the spot, the French did not continue the contest, but made -their retreat by another road. If they had known how few troops were -in the town, they would, of course, have entered it without commencing -this fire; and the Prussian officers agree, that, if they had done -so, there would have been little chance of saving their monarch. Had -they been aware also, that his Prussian Majesty was there, they might -have reduced this slight chance to an impossibility; for they were -sufficiently numerous to have surrounded the town, and had approached -so quietly, that they were not known to be near it. The Prussians had -no cannon, and the French were otherwise greatly superior; though, -having no other purpose for entering the town, than to continue their -retreat, they did not wait to contest it, but retired by another road. -That a circumstance, which would have had such an effect upon the -affairs of Europe, should have depended upon so slight a chance as -this, we could not have believed, if the story had not been confirmed -to us by ample authority. - -The garrison of Mentz was increased by these retreats to 23,000 men; -General Kalkreuth, who commanded the blockade from Laubenheim to -Budenheim, a distance of twelve miles, had only 16,000 men. General -Schonfield, with his corps of observation, was at Hockheim. The -besiegers, however, presently amounted to 30,000 men. It is remarkable, -that, though the French retreated from several quarters, at once, and -in many small columns, not one of these was effectually interrupted by -the Prussian commander. - -Upon intelligence of these advances, the Elector of Mentz paid a visit -to the King of Prussia, at his head quarters, and left his minister, -the Baron d'ALBINI, to attend to the affairs of the recovered places. - -In the beginning of April, the blockade was more closely pressed, and -the preparations for the siege seriously commenced. General d'OYRÉ was -made commander in the city, with a Council of sixteen persons, to -assist him in restoring the means of its defence. A person was placed -at the top of an high building, called Stephen's Tower, with glasses, -which enabled him to overlook the country for nine miles round. He -had a secretary with him, that his view might never be unnecessarily -diverted, and was obliged to make a daily report of his observations. -The beating of drums and ringing of bells were forbidden throughout -the whole city, that the besiegers might not know in what quarters the -corps de garde were placed, or what churches were left without the -military. All prospect houses and trees within the walls, which could -serve as marks to the fire without, were ordered to be demolished. Many -days were passed in bringing further stores of provisions into the -city; after which an account of the stock was taken, and there were -found to be - - 24,090 sacks of wheat. - 1,465 of other corn. - 996 of mixed grain. - ------ - - -Of which 26,551 sacks, it was stated, that 23,070 sacks of meal could -be made. To this was to be added in sifted meal of wheat 109 sacks, of -other corn 45 sacks, of mixed grain 10,076 sacks; making in all 33,300 -sacks of meal. There were besides - - 43,960 rations of biscuit. - 7,275 pounds of rice. - 13,045 of dried herbs. - Of forage, 10,820 quintals of hay. - 54,270 of straw. - 1,518 sacks of oats. - 2,503 of barley. - -The Council estimated, that the garrison had corn enough for nine -months, rice for seven, and herbs for six. There were fifteen hundred -horses, and it was reckoned, that the straw was enough for ten -months, the oats for four-and-twenty days, and the barley for eighty -days. The garrison was numbered, and found to consist of 22,653 -persons; of whom to each soldier was allotted, for the future, 24 -ounces of bread, per day, in lieu of 28, and 4 ounces of fresh meat, or -3 ounces of salt, in lieu of 8 ounces of fresh. The allowance of the -sick in the hospitals was changed from twelve to eight ounces. - -During these preparations for a long siege, the diminution of the -number of inhabitants, by means of the clubs, was pursued. On the 8th -of April, all persons, not useful to the army, were ordered to leave -the city, unless they would take the new oath; at the same time, it -was said, that on account of the foreseen want of money, the soldiers, -employed on the works, would be no longer paid, but the other workmen -would continue to receive their salaries. - -The garrison made their first sortie, on the night of the 10th and -11th, proceeding towards the Rhine. Kostheim was immediately taken, and -the attack upon the Hessians succeeded, at first, but a reinforcement -compelled the French to retire. About this time, the Commissioner -Reubell went to Oppenheim, where he delivered a proposal for peace to -the King of Prussia. - -The village of Weissenau was contended for, on the 15th, 16th and 17th, -and finally destroyed, the French soldiers, who remained upon the spot, -subscribing 460 livres for the inhabitants. - -On the 18th, nearly the whole of a French convoy of 90 waggons was -taken by the Prussians. On the 20th the Imperialists erected a small -fort on a point of land, near the Main, and the French, on the other -hand, perfected a battery, at Kostheim, with which they set on fire -some stables. - -The price of provisions was already so much increased in the city, that -salt butter cost 48 creitzers, or 16d. pence per pound. - -In the night of the 28th and 29th, the French landed in three vessels, -and destroyed a battery, erected near the Main. On the 1st of May, -at one in the morning, they attacked the Prussians, at Hockheim, and -set the village of Kostheim on fire. The Prussians repulsed them with -loss, but they remained in Kostheim, notwithstanding the fire, which -continued for three days; they were then expelled by the Prussians, -but soon returned with reinforcements, and a sanguinary contest -commenced, at the end of which they continued to be masters of the -village. A numerous garrison was placed in it, which, on the 8th, was -again attacked by the Prussians, but without effect. Thus the greatest -part of May was spent in contests for villages and posts, in which the -French were generally the assailants. In the night of the 30th, they -beat up, in three columns, the Prussian head quarters, at Marienborn. -Having marched barefooted and with such exact information, that they -passed all the batteries unperceived, they entered the village itself, -without resistance, and, it is supposed, would have surprised the -commander, if they had not fired at his windows, beat their drums, -and begun to shout _Vive la Nation!_ Three balls, which entered the -apartment of General KALKREUTH, admonished him to quit it, and a -sentinel stepped up just in time to shoot a French soldier, who had -seized him. Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia immediately arrived with -some troops, and the French began to retire, leaving thirty prisoners -and twenty killed of 6000, engaged in the enterprise. The loss of the -Prussians was considerable; amongst the rest Captain Voss, a relative -of Mademoiselle Voss, well known in the Court of Prussia. - -On the 4th of June, the allowance to the garrison was ordered to be two -pounds of bread and one bottle of wine for each soldier, per day. - -In the night of the 6th and 7th, the cannonade was very fierce, on both -sides; in Mentz a powder magazine was fired by a bomb, and blew up with -a dreadful explosion. - -The scarceness of provisions increased, so that a pound of fresh butter -cost six shillings. Horseflesh began to be consumed in many families. - -On the night of the 9th and 10th of June, the garrison made four -sorties, which ended in considerable loss, on both sides, and in the -retirement of the French into the city. On the 10th, they attacked, at -eight in the morning, a post near Gonsenheim, retreating without loss, -after killing an officer and several men. This was their first sally -in open day-light. - -General Meusnier, who had been wounded near Cassel, on the 7th, died on -the 13th, and was buried the next day, within the new fortifications, -all the officers of the garrison, with the members of the convention -and clubs, attending. - -Some fire ships were now completed, which a Dutch engineer had -conducted from Holland, to be employed by the besiegers in burning the -bridge of boats over the Rhine. It was thought, however, that their -explosion would damage the city unnecessarily, and they were rejected. -In the night of the 15th, one of these floated down the river, whether -by accident, or by the connivance of the inventor, is not known; the -inhabitants were in the utmost terror, but it struck against the quay, -and, being immediately boarded, did no damage. - -The trenches were opened, in the night of the 16th and 17th, but, the -workmen having been ill conducted, were not covered in, at day-light, -and were compelled to retire, leaving their implements behind them. Two -nights afterwards, the work was renewed in good order and without loss, -the King of Prussia, his sons and the Duke of Brunswick surveying them -from a neighbouring height. The first balls fell in a street near one -of the gates, and all that part of the town was presently deserted. - -The 24th was a distressful day for the inhabitants. Four days before, -the King of Prussia had sent a general passport for such as chose to -come out, and 1500 persons, chiefly women and children, had accepted -his offer. A short time after the gate had been opened, dismay was -spread through the whole city by an account, that the Prussians would -suffer no more to pass and the French none to return. The bridge was -covered with these unhappy fugitives, who had no food, or shelter, -and who thought themselves within reach of the Hockheim batteries, that -played furiously upon the city. Two children lost their senses through -fright. At length, the French soldiers took compassion upon them; they -carried several persons into the city under their cloaks, and, the -next day, their remonstrances against the inhumanity of the German -clubbists, who had shut the gates against this defenceless crowd, -obliged them to permit the return of the whole number. - -For several succeeding nights, the garrison made sorties, with various -effect, interrupting, but not preventing the completion of the parallel. - -At sunset, on the 27th, the besiegers began a dreadful cannonade and -bombardment. On this night, the steeple of the church of Notre Dame -caught fire; and during the alarm, excited by an immense volume of -flame, arising in the midst of the city, the Austrians completely -carried the French posts, near Weissenau. The next night was equally -terrible to the inhabitants; the flames caught several parts of the -city, amongst others the cathedral; some of the magazines took fire, -and eleven hundred sacks of corn were burned. The church, formerly -belonging to the Jesuits, was much injured. The French, intending to -retaliate their last surprise upon the Austrians, made a fruitless -attack upon the Weissenau redoubt. - -On the 29th of June, at mid-day, the French were driven from a point -of land, near the Main, called the Bleiau. In this affair, a vessel, -with 78 Prussians on board, drove from her anchor, owing to the -unskilfulness of the crew, and, during a fire, by which eight men were -killed, made towards the city. The Prussians were taken prisoners, and -exchanged the next day. At night, the bombardment was renewed; the -_Domprobstei_, or palace of the Provost, was burned and several of the -neighbouring residences; in other parts of the city, some houses were -reduced to ashes. - -The next night, the church of the Franciscans and several other public -buildings were destroyed. A dreadful fire, on the night of the 2d -and 4th of June, consumed the chapel of St. Alban. Families in the -southern part of the city now constantly passed the night in their -cellars; in the day-time, they ventured into their usual apartments; -for the batteries of the besiegers were by far the most terrible, at -night, when the whole city was a sufficient mark for them, though their -works could scarcely be discerned by the garrison. In the day-time, -the exactness of the French gunners frequently did great injury to the -batteries, which, at night, were repaired and used with equal effect -against the city. - -St. Alban's fort was now demolished, so that the besieged withdrew -their cannon from it. Elizabeth fort was also much damaged. A strong -work, which the French had raised, in prolongation of the _glacis_, -divided the opinions of the Prussian engineers. Some thought it should -be preserved, when taken, because it would command part of the town; -others, that it should be demolished. The latter opinion prevailed, -and, in the night of the 5th and 6th, General MANSTEIN was ordered -to make the attack with three battalions. He perfectly succeeded, as -to the nearest part of the work; but the other, on account of its -solid foundation, could not be entirely destroyed. In the mean time, -two battalions were sent, under cover of the darkness, to attack -the Zahlbach fort, a part of which they carried by storm; but the -reinforcements, immediately supplied by the garrison, obliged them to -retire. Two Prussian officers were killed; one wounded, and another, -with one-and-thirty men, taken. The Prussians lost in all 183 men; the -French had twelve killed and forty-seven wounded. - -On the 6th of July, the French repaired the damaged fort, the distance -of it from the Prussians preventing the latter from hindering them. - -At night, General Kleist carried the fort, at Zahlbach, by a second -attack, and demolished it; at the same time, some batteries of the -second parallel were perfected. The French could not support the -loss of this fort; on the 7th, they attacked the scite; carried it, -after a severe contest; and rebuilt it. At night, they were driven -back again and the fort entirely destroyed. In the same night they -were driven from Kostheim, after a furious battle, by the Prussian -General Schonfield. During this engagement, the rapid succession of -flashes and explosion of bombs seemed to fill the air with flame. -A Prussian detachment having been posted on the road to Cassel, in -order to prevent the garrison of that place from sending succour to -Kostheim, this road was so strongly bombarded by the French, that seven -bombs were frequently seen in the air at once. The loss was great, on -both sides, in this engagement, after which the Council in the city -resolved, to make no more attempts upon Kostheim, on account of the -distance. - -The following night, the fire was less than usual, but a few bombs and -grenades fell in the city, where the inhabitants had now learned to -extinguish such as grounded, before their _fusees_ were consumed. They -also formed themselves into parties for the ready suppression of fires. -The next morning, the garrison saw the works of the besiegers brought -to within two hundred and fifty paces of the walls. - -About this time, the sickliness of the garrison became apparent, and -General D'Oyré informed the Council, that, on account of this and of -the fatiguing service of the works, he feared the defence could not be -much longer continued. He lamented, that the troops of the line were so -few, and the others so inexperienced. - -For several nights, the works of the besiegers were eagerly pushed, -but still they were not so forward, as had been expected. Some of the -besieging corps began to be sickly; the King of Prussia having resolved -to employ no more labourers, it was reckoned, that the soldiers, for -eight-and-forty hours of work, had only eighteen of rest. On the other -hand, they were assured, that the garrison must be equally fatigued, -since, in such an extensive fortification, none could be left long -unemployed. - -The French had been, for some time, busied in forming what is called -a Fleche at the head of one of their forts, and this was thought -necessary to be destroyed. It was attacked in the night of the 12th and -13th by the Austrians; but so much time was passed in their operations, -that the French fell upon them, in great force, about two in the -morning, and beat them away, with loss. The Austrians were as little -employed as possible in services of this fort. - -On the 13th of July, another battery was stormed by the Prussians; but, -as the officer, unlike the Austrians, advanced with too little caution, -his party was much hurt by some pieces of concealed cannon, and the -enterprise failed. - -The night of the 13th and 14th was passed in much agitation by the -garrison and inhabitants. Several of the public buildings were set -fire to and burned by grenades. The works of the besiegers were now -greatly advanced. The garrison made five sorties in this night, and -were repulsed in all, losing an hundred men, while the besiegers lost -eight killed and one-and-thirty wounded. - -On the 14th of July, a cessation of arms took place from seven o'clock -in the morning till one. In the city, the French celebrated their -annual fête; General d'OYRÉ and the troops took the oath, and MERLIN -delivered an address to them. In the Austrian camp, the Prince de CONDÉ -was received with a _feu de joye_. During this cessation, the soldiers -upon the different outposts entered into conversation with each other, -and the French boasted of the difficulties they laboured under from the -length of the siege. - -At night, an affair at the Fleche cost the allies, who succeeded in -part, ninety men; the French confessed, that this work cost them in all -three hundred. The inhabitants of the city were again greatly alarmed, -their streets being covered with a shower of grenades. The laboratory -and a part of the Benedictine abbey were burned, and two explosions -took place at the former. The whole city shook with each report, and, -in the nearer parts, all the windows were broken and the doors burst -open. The remainder of the hay and straw was consumed in this fire; the -whole stock of other forage was reduced to a sufficiency for four days; -and the surgeon's stores were much damaged. - -Still the Fleche prevented the besiegers from completing their second -parallel. It was, therefore, again attacked, on the night of the 16th -and 17th, Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia commanding at the assault, -in which he was one of twelve officers wounded. The Fleche was then -completely carried. - -The next night was very industriously spent by the besiegers in forming -new batteries, and those of the second parallel were raised, before -there were cannon enough at hand to place upon them. The French -took advantage of this, and brought a part of theirs to bear, so as -to enfilade the parallel, with great effect; the Prussians almost -immediately losing an officer and forty men. - -In the city, the sick had now increased so much, that six hundred men -were brought from Cassel, on the 17th, to re-inforce the garrison. On -the 18th, the commandant informed the Council, that there was a want -of fodder and such a loss of horses, by desertion, that there were not -cavalry enough left for service. The soldiers, who knew the deficiency -of medicines and other means of relief for the wounded, were unwilling -to be led to sorties. Though corn had not failed, flour, it appeared, -soon would, for some of the mills had been rendered unserviceable, for -the present, by shot, and others were deserted by the millers. - -At night, after an unsuccessful attempt upon the Fleche, it was -resolved, that the garrison, which had hitherto scarcely suffered a -night to pass, without making some sorties, should, for the future, -adhere solely to defensive measures. Some engineers proposed to abandon -the whole line of forts, and others, that two of the largest should -be blown up. The General and Council, at length, confessed, that they -could not continue the defence, and assured the inhabitants, who -had declared themselves in their favour, that a longer delay of the -surrender would produce a more severe disposition of the besiegers -towards them, without increasing the chance of escaping it. - -A negotiation, relative to the surrender, was now begun by D'OYRÉ, -in a letter, which partly replied to one from the Prussian commander -KALKREUTH, upon the subject of the departure of aged persons and -children from the city. Their correspondence continued till the 20th, -and several letters were exchanged, chiefly upon the question of the -removal, or detention of the inhabitants, who had attached themselves -to the French; it was then broken off, upon a disagreement, as to this -and some other points. The firing, on both sides, had in the mean time -continued, and the besiegers carried on the trenches, though these were -now such an easy mark for the garrison, that they lost an officer and -five-and-twenty men, in the night of the 19th and 20th. The next night, -the Dominicans' church in the city took fire, and six French soldiers -were buried under its ruins. - -Upon a renewal of the intercourse, the fire slackened, on the -21st; but, on some delays in the negotiation, was threatened to be -recommenced. At length, the conditions of the surrender were settled, -and the negotiation signed, on the 22d of July, by the two Generals -Kalkreuth and D'Oyré; the former having rendered the capitulation -somewhat easier than was expected for the garrison, because the -Duke of Brunswick had only nineteen thousand men to cover the siege, -and Custine had forty thousand, which were near enough to attack -him. General KALKREUTH's orders are supposed to have been to obtain -possession of the place, upon any terms, that would give it him quickly. - -At this time, the garrison, which, at the commencement of the siege, -had consisted of 22,653 men, was reduced to 17,038, having had 1959 -killed, 3334 wounded, or rendered unserviceable by sickness, and having -lost 322 by desertion. - -The loss of the besiegers is stated at about 3000 men. - -The consumption of ammunition, on the part of the French, was found to -have been - - 681,850 pounds of powder, - 106,152 cannon balls, - 10,278 bombs, - 6,592 grenades, - 44,500 pounds of iron, - 300,340 musquet cartridges; - -and, during the siege, 107 cannon either burst, or were rendered -unserviceable by the besiegers' shot. Towards the conclusion, sixty -cannon also became useless by the failure of balls of the proper -calibre. - -On the 24th and 25th, the garrison marched out, MERLIN leading the -first column of 7500 men. The members of the Clubs, who would have -gone out with the troops, were pointed out by the other inhabitants -and detained; but the Elector had the magnanimity to think of no other -retaliation, than their imprisonment in a tower, near the Rhine, where -they have since remained. - -There was now leisure to examine the city, and it was found, that six -churches were in ruins; that seven mansions of the nobility had been -burned, and that very few houses had escaped, without some damage. -The surrounding grounds were torn up by balls and batteries. The -works of Cassel were surrendered entire to the conquerors, and are an -important addition to the strength of Mentz, already reckoned one of -the strongest and largest fortifications in Europe. Between Cassel and -the ruins of Kostheim not a tree was to be seen. All the neighbouring -villages were more, or less, injured, being contended for, as posts, at -the commencement of the siege; and the country was so much disfigured, -that the proprietors of lands had some difficulty to ascertain their -boundaries. - - - - -MENTZ. - - -Something has been already said of the present condition of this city: -upon a review it appears, that from the mention of churches, palaces, -burgesses, quays and streets, we might be supposed to represent it -as a considerable place, either for splendour, or commerce, or for -having its middle classes numerously filled. Any such opinion of Mentz -will be very incorrect. After two broad and somewhat handsome streets, -all the other passages in the city are narrow lanes, and into these -many of the best houses open, having, for the most part, their lower -windows barricadoed, like those of Cologne. The disadvantage, with -which any buildings must appear in such situations, is increased by -the neglected condition of these; for a German has no notion, that the -outside of his house should be clean, even if the inside is so. An -Englishman, who spends a few hundred pounds in a year, has his house in -better condition, as to neatness, than any German nobleman's we saw; a -Dutchman, with fifty pounds a year, exceeds both. - -The Elector's palace is a large turreted building of reddish stone, -with one front towards the Rhine, which it commands in a delightful -point of view; but we did not hear, that it was so much altered, by -being now used as a barrack, as that its appearance can formerly have -been much less suitable than at present to such a purpose. - -On the quay there is some appearance of traffic, but not much in -the city; so that the transfer of commodities from vessels of other -districts to those of the Electorate may be supposed to contribute -great part of the show near the river. The commerce is not sufficient -to encourage the building of warehouses over the quay. The vessels are -ill rigged, and the hulls are entirely covered with pitch, without -paint. About thirty of these, apparently from forty to seventy tons -burthen, were lying near the quay; and the war could scarcely have -diminished their usual number, so many being employed in carrying -stores for the armies. - -The burgesses are numerous, and have some privileges, which render -their political condition enviable to the other inhabitants of the -Electorate. But, though these have invited manufacturers, and somewhat -encouraged commerce, there is not wealth enough in the neighbouring -country, to make such a consumption, as shall render many traders -prosperous. In point of wealth, activity and address, the burgesses of -Mentz are much below the opinion, which must be formed, while German -cities are described and estimated by their importance in their own -country, rather than by a comparison of their condition with that of -others. A trader, it will be allowed, is at least as likely to appear -to advantage in his business as in any other state. His intelligence -may surely be, in some degree, judged of by those, who deal with him; -and that we might know something of those of Mentz, we passed some of -the little time we were left to ourselves in endeavouring to buy -trifles at their shops. - -The idleness and inadvertence we generally saw are difficult to be -conceived; perhaps, the trouble, experienced in purchasing a book, -may give an idea of them. We wanted the German pamphlet, from which -most of the above-mentioned particulars of the siege are extracted; -and, as it related to a topic so general within the place, we smiled, -when our friends said they would _assist_ us to procure it, during a -walk. Two booksellers, to whom we applied, knew nothing of it; and one -supposed, that an engraved view of the works would do quite as well. -Passing another shop, a young German gentleman enquired for it of the -master, who was at the door, and heard, that we might have it, upon our -return, in half an hour. The door, when we came back, was shut, and no -knocking could procure it to be opened; so that we were obliged to -send into the dwelling-house. When the shopman came, he knew nothing -of the book; but, being assured that his master had promised it, went -away, and returned with a copy in sheets. We paid for this, and left it -to be sewed, which was agreed to be done, in three hours. At that time, -it was not finished, but might be had in another hour; and, after that -hour, it was again promised, within two. Finally, it could not be had, -that night, but would be ready in the morning, and, in the morning, it -was still unfinished; we then went to Franckfort without it, and it was -sent after us by a friend. This was the most aggravated instance we saw -of a German trader's manners; but something like it may be almost every -where met with. - -From such symptoms and from the infrequency of wealth among the middle -classes it is apparent, that Mentz could not have been important, as -to commerce, even if there had been no siege, which is here mentioned -as the cause of all deficiencies, and certainly is so of many. The -destruction of property, occasioned by it, will not be soon remedied. -The nobility have almost forsaken a place, where their palaces have -been either destroyed, or ransacked; the Prince has no residence there; -some of the Germans, who emigrated on account of the last siege, fled -into France; the war-taxes, as well as the partial maintenance of the -garrison, diminish what property remains; and all expenditure is upon a -reduced footing. - -The contribution of the inhabitants towards a support of the garrison -is made by the very irksome means of affording them lodging. At the -best houses, the doors are chalked over with the names of officers, -lodged in them; which the servants dare not efface, for the soldiers -must know where to find their officers. In a family, whom we visited, -four officers and their servants were quartered; but it must be -acknowledged, that the former, so far from adding to this inconvenience -by any negligent conduct, were constantly and carefully polite. We, -indeed, never saw Prussian officers otherwise; and can testify, -that they are as much superior to those Austrians in manners and -intelligence, as they are usually said to be in military qualities. - -Another obstruction, which the siege has given to the prosperity of -Mentz, consists in the absence of many members of the Noble Chapter; -an institution, which, however useless, or injurious to the country, -occasions the expenditure of considerable sums in the capital. That -of Mentz is said to be one of the richest of many similar Chapters -in Germany. From such foundations the younger sons of noble families -derive sometimes very ample incomes, and are but little restricted -by their regulations from any enjoyment of temporal splendour. Their -carriages and liveries vie with those of the other attendants at -Court; they are not prohibited from wearing the ornaments of orders -of knighthood; are very little enjoined to residence; are received -in the environs of the Court with military honours, and allowed to -reside in their separate houses. They may wear embroidery of gold, and -cloths of any colours, except scarlet, or green, which, as well as -silver lace, are thought too gay. Being thus permitted and enabled to -become examples of luxury, their residence in any city diffuses some -appearance of prosperity over it. - -One of the largest buildings in Mentz is the arsenal, which fronts -towards the river, and attracts the attention of those, who walk upon -the quay, by having armed heads placed at the windows of the first -floor, which seem to frown, with Roman sternness, upon the passenger. -In one of the principal rooms within, a party of figures in similar -armour are placed at a council-board. We did not hear who contrived -them; but the heads in the windows may be mistaken for real ones, at -the distance of fifty yards. - -The Elector of Mentz, who is chosen by a Chapter of twenty-four Canons, -and is usually one of their number, is the first ecclesiastical Prince -in the empire, of which he is also the Arch-chancellor and Director -of the Electoral College. In the Diet, he sits on the right hand of -the Emperor, affixes the seal of the Empire to its decrees, and has -afterwards the custody of them among the archives. His revenues, in a -time of peace, are nearly 200,000l. annually; but, during a war, they -are much less, a third part of them arising from tolls, imposed upon -the navigation of the Rhine. The vineyards supply another large part; -and his subjects, not interested in them, are but little taxed, -except when military preparations are to be made; the taxes are then as -direct as possible, that money may be immediately collected. - -The fortifications of his chief city are as much a misfortune to his -country as they are an advantage to the rest of the Empire. Being -always one of the first objects, on this side of the Rhine, since an -enemy cannot cross the river, while so considerable a fortress and so -large a garrison as it may contain, might, perhaps, check their return, -the Electorate has been often the scene of a tedious warfare. From the -first raising of the works by Louis the Fourteenth, their strength has -never been fully tried. The surrender in 1792 was partly for the want -of a proper garrison, and partly by contrivance; even in 1793, when the -defence was so furious and long, the garrison, it is thought, might -have held out further, if their stores had been secured in bomb-proof -buildings. A German garrison, supported by an army, which should occupy -the opposite bank of the Rhine, might be continually reinforced and -supplied, so as to be conquered by nothing but the absolute demolition -of the walls. - -The bridge of boats over the Rhine, which, both in peace and war, is so -important to the city, is now in a much better state than the French -found it, being guarded, at the eastern end, by the fortifications of -Cassel. Notwithstanding its great length and the rapidity of the river, -it is so well constructed, as to be much less liable to injury, than -might be supposed, and would probably sustain batteries, which might -defeat every attempt at destroying it by fireships. It is 766 feet -long, and wide enough for the passage of two carriages at once. Various -repairs, and the care of a daily survey, have continued it, since -1661, when it was thrown over the river. - -The practice of modifying the names of towns so as to incorporate them -separately with every language, is no where more remarkable than with -respect to those of Germany, where a stranger, unless he is aware of -them, might find the variations very inconvenient. The German name -for what we call Mentz, is _Maynz_; the French, which is most used, -_Mayence_; and the Italian _Magontio_, by descent from the Roman -_Magontiacum_. The German synonym for Liege is _Luttich_; for Aix la -Chapelle, _Achen_; for Bois le Duc, _Herzogenbusch_; and for Cologne, -_Cöln_, which is pronounced _Keln_. The name borne by every town in the -nation to which it belongs, should surely be its name, wherever it is -mentioned; for the same reason, that words, derived into one language -from another, are pronounced according to the authority of their -roots, because the use of the primary term is already established, -and there can never be a decision between subsequent varieties, which -are cotemporary among themselves, and are each produced by the same -arrogance of invention. - - - - -FRANCKFORT. - - -We came hither by means of a passage boat, which we were told would -shew something of the German populace, but which displayed nothing so -much as the unskilfulness of the German sailors. Though they make this -voyage, every day, they went aground in the even stream of the Maine, -and during the calmest weather; fixing the vessel so fast by their -ill-directed struggle to get off, that they were compelled to bring the -towing horses to the side and tug backward with the stream. There -were an hundred people in the boat; but the expedient of desiring them -to remove from the part, which was aground, was never used. We heard, -that they seldom make the voyage, without a similar stoppage, not -against any shifting sand, but upon the permanent shelves of the river. - -The distance is about four-and-twenty miles, but we were nine hours in -reaching Franckfort, the environs of which afford some symptoms of a -commercial and opulent city, the banks of the Maine being covered for -nearly the last mile with country seats, separated from each other by -small pleasure grounds. - -There are gates and walls to Franckfort, but the magistrates do not -oppress travellers by a military examination at their entrance. -Having seen the worthlessness of many places, which bear ostentatious -characters either for splendour or trade, we were surprised to find -in this as much of both as had been reported. The quays were well -covered with goods and labourers; the streets nearest to the water are -lined with shops, and those in the middle of the city with the houses -of merchants, of which nearly all are spacious, and many magnificent. -Some, indeed, might be called palaces, if they had nobility for their -tenants; but, though the independence, which commerce spreads among -the middle classes, does not entirely deter the German nobility from a -residence here, the finest houses are the property of merchants. - -In our way to the _Cigne Blanc_, which is one of the best inns, we -passed many of so good an appearance, that it was difficult to believe -there could be better in a German city. But Franckfort, which is the -pride of Germany, in this respect, has probably a greater number of -large inns than any other place of equal extent in Europe. The fairs -fill these, twice in a year, for three weeks, at each time; and the -order, which is indispensible then, continues at other periods, to the -surprise and comfort of strangers. - -This city has been justly described by many travellers; and Doctor -MOORE has treated of its inhabitants with the ease and elegant -animation of his peculiar manner. We shall not assume the disadvantage -of entering upon the same subject after him. The inhabitants of -Franckfort are very distinct, as to manners and information, from the -other Germans; but they are so far like to those of our own commercial -cities, that one able account leaves scarcely any thing new to be seen, -or told, concerning them. - -All their blessings of liberty, intelligence, and wealth are observed -with the more attention, because they cannot be approached, except -through countries afflicted by arbitrary power, ignorance and poverty. -The existence of such a city, in such a situation, is little less -than a _phenomenon_; the causes of which are so various and minute -as to make the effect, at first sight, appear almost accidental. The -jealousy of the neighbouring Princes towards each other, is the known, -and, certainly, the chief cause of its exterior protection against -each; the continuance of its interior liberties is probably owing -to the circumstance, which, but for that jealousy, would expose it -to subjection from without,--the smallness of its territory. Where -the departments of government must be very few, very difficult to be -rendered expensive to the public, and very near to their inspection, -the ambition of individuals can be but little tempted to contrive -encroachments upon the community. So complexly are the chief causes of -its exterior and interior independence connected with each other. - -As to the first of these, it may, perhaps, be replied, that a -similar jealousy has not always been sufficient to protect similar -cities; and Dantzick is the recent instance of its insufficiency. But -the jealousy, as to Dantzick, though similar, was not equal to this, -and the temptation to oppose it was considerably greater. What would -the most capable of the neighbouring Princes gain by the seizure of -Franckfort? A place of strength? No. A place capable of paying taxes? -Yes; but taxes, which would be re-imposed upon commodities, consumed -partly by his own subjects, whose property is his own already, and -partly by those of his neighbours, to whose jealousy they would afford -an additional and an unappeasable provocation. Dantzick, on the -contrary, being a seaport, was, if not strong, capable of supplying -strength, and might pay taxes, which should not fall entirely upon its -neighbours, but upon the distant countries, that traffick with it. And -even to these considerations it is unnecessary to resort, unless -we can suppose, that despotism would have no effect upon commerce; a -supposition which does not require to be refuted. If a severe taxation -was introduced here, and, in so small a district, taxation must be -severe to be productive; if such a taxation was to be introduced, -and if the other advantage of conquest, that of a forcible levy of -soldiers, was attempted, commerce would vanish in silence before -the oppressor, and the Prince, that should seize the liberties of -Franckfort, would find nothing but those liberties in his grasp. - -On the other hand, what are the advantages of permitting the -independence of such a city to the sovereigns, who have the power of -violating it? Those of a neutral barrier are well known, but apply only -to military, or political circumstances. The others are the market, -which Franckfort affords, for the produce and manufactures of all the -neighbouring states; its value as a banking _depôt_ and _emporium_, -in which Princes may place their money, without rendering it liable -to the orders of each other, or from which they may derive loans, -by negotiating solely and directly with the lenders; its incapacity -for offensive measures; and its usefulness as a place of meeting to -themselves, or their ministers, when political connections are to be -discussed. - -That the inhabitants do enjoy this independence without and freedom -within, we believe, not because they are asserted by treaties, or -political forms; of which the former might not have survived the -temporary interests, that concluded them, and the latter might be -subdued by corruption, if there were the means of it; but because they -were acknowledged to us by many temperate and discerning persons, -as much aloof from faction, as they were from the affectation, or -servility, that sometimes makes men boast themselves free, only because -they have, or would be thought to have, a little share in oppressing -others. Many such persons declared to us, that they had a substantial, -practical freedom; and we thought a testimony to their actual -enjoyments more valuable than any formal acknowledgments of their -rights. As to these latter securities, indeed, Franckfort is no better -provided than other imperial cities, which have proved their inutility. -It stands in the same list with Cologne, but is as superior to it in -government as in wealth. - -The inhabitants having had the good sense to foresee, that -fortifications might render them a more desirable prize to their -neighbours, at the same time that their real protection must depend -upon other means, have done little more than sustain their antient -walls, which are sufficient to defend them against a surprise by -small parties. They maintain no troops, except a few companies of -city-guards, and make their contributions to the army of the Empire in -specie. These companies are filled chiefly with middle-aged men, whose -appearance bespeaks the plenty and peacefulness of the city. Their -uniforms, blue and white, are of the cut of those in the prints of -MARLBOROUGH'S days; and their grenadiers' caps are of the same peaked -sort, with tin facings, impressed with the city arms. - -In wars with France, the fate of Franckfort has usually depended upon -that of Mentz, which is properly called the key of Germany, on the -western frontier. In the campaign of 1792, Custine detached 3000 troops -of the 11,000, with which he had besieged Mentz, and these reached -Franckfort, early in the morning of the 22d of October. NEUWINGER, -their commander, sent a letter to the magistrates from Custine, -demanding a contribution of two millions of florins, which, by a -negotiation at Mentz, was reduced to a million and a half, for the -present. Notice was accordingly given in the city, that the magistrates -would receive money at four per cent. interest, and, on the 23d, -at break of day, it began to flow in to the Council-house from all -quarters. Part was immediately given to NEUWINGER, but payment of the -rest was delayed; so that Custine came himself on the 27th, and, by -throwing the hostages into prison, obtained, on the 31st of October, -the remainder of the first million. For the second, the magistrates -gave security to NEUWINGER, but it was never paid; the Convention -disavowed great part of the proceedings of Custine, and the money was -not again demanded. - -The French, during the whole of their stay, were very eager to spread -exaggerated accounts of their numbers. Troops were accordingly marched -out at one gate of the city, with very little parade, that they -might enter with much pomp and in a longer column, at the other. -The inhabitants, who were not expert at military numeration, easily -believed, that the first party had joined other troops, and that the -whole amounted to treble their real number. After the entry of the -Prussians, this contrivance was related by prisoners. - -The number of troops, left in the city by Custine, on his retirement -from the neighbouring posts, in the latter end of November, was -1800 men, with two pieces of cannon. On the 28th, when the Prussian -Lieutenant Pellet brought a summons to surrender, Helden, the -commander, having sent to Custine for reinforcements and cannon, was -answered, that no men could be spared; and that, as to cannon, he -might use the city artillery. Helden endeavoured to remove this from -the arsenal; but the populace, encouraged by the neighbourhood -of the Prussians, rose to prevent him; and there might have been a -considerable tumult, if Custine had not arrived, on the 29th, and -assured the magistrates, that the garrison should retire, rather -than expose the place to a siege. The city then became tranquil, and -remained so till the 2d of December, when the inhabitants, being in -church, first knew by the noise of cannon, that the place was attacked. - -General Helden would then have taken his two cannon to the gate, which -was contended for, but the inhabitants, remembering Custine's promise, -would permit no resistance; they cut the harness of the horses, broke -the cannon wheels, and themselves opened the gates to the Prussians, or -rather to the Hessians, for the advanced corps of the assailants was -chiefly formed of them. About 100 fell in this attack. Of the French -41 were killed; 139 wounded; and 800 taken prisoners. The remainder -of the 1800 reached Custine's army. A monument, erected without the -northern gate of the city, commemorates the loss of the 100 assailants, -on the spot, on which they fell. - -Thus Franckfort, having happily but few fortifications, was lost and -regained, without a siege; while Mentz, in a period of six more months, -had nearly all its best buildings destroyed, by a similar change of -masters. - -We stayed here almost a week, which was well occupied by visits, but -shewed nothing in addition to what is already known of the society -of the place. Manners, customs, the topics of conversation and even -dress, differ very slightly from those of London, in similar ranks; the -merchants of Franckfort have more generally the advantages of travel, -than those of England, but they have not that minute knowledge of -modern events and characters, which an attention to public transactions -renders common in our island. Those, who have been in England, or -who speak English, seem desirous to discuss the state of parliamentary -transactions and interests, and to remedy the thinness of their own -public topics, by introducing ours. In such discussions one error is -very general from their want of experience. The faculty of making a -speech is taken for the standard of intellectual power in every sort -of exertion; though there is nothing better known in countries, where -public speakers are numerous enough to be often observed, than that -persons may be educated to oratory, so as to have a facility, elegance -and force in it, distinct from the endowments of deliberative wisdom; -may be taught to speak in terms remote from common use, to combine -them with an unfailing dexterity of arrangement, and to invest every -thought with its portion of artificial dignity, who, through the -chaos of benefits and evils, which the agitation of difficult times -throws up before the eye of the politician, shall be able to see no -gleam of light, to describe no direct path, to discern no difference -between greater and lesser evils, nor to think one wholesome truth for -a confiding and an honest country. To estimate the general intellectual -powers of men, tutored to oratory, from their success in the practice -of it, is as absurd as to judge of corporeal strength from that of one -arm, which may have been rendered unusually strong by exercise and art. - -Of the society at Franckfort, Messrs. Bethman, the chief bankers, seem -able to collect a valuable part; and their politeness to strangers -induces them to do it often. A traveller, who misses their table, -loses, both as to conversation and elegant hospitality, a welcome proof -of what freedom and commerce can do against the mental and physical -desolation otherwise spread over the country. - -The assistance, which the mutual use of languages gives to a connection -between distant places, we were happy to see existing and increasing, -to the advantage of England, at Franckfort. At the Messrs. Bethmans', -one day, French was nearly excluded, the majority being able to -converse with nine or ten English, who were there, in their own -language. Of the merchants, who have not been in England, several speak -English, without difficulty, and the rising generation, it is said, -will be generally accomplished in it. - -One of the luxuries of Franckfort is a _Cabinet Literaire_, which -is open to strangers by the introduction of members. There the best -periodical publications of the Continent are received, and their titles -immediately entered in a book, so that the reading is not disturbed -by conversation with the librarian. It excited our shame to hear, that -some contrivance had, for several months, prevented the society from -receiving a very valuable English publication. - -After this, the Theatre may seem to require some notice. It is a -modern, but not an elegant building, standing in an area, that renders -it convenient of access, and nearly in the middle of the city. The -interior, which has been gaudily decorated, contains a pit, three rows -of boxes, that surround the audience part, and a gallery over them in -the centre. It is larger than the Little Theatre in the Haymarket, and, -in form, resembles that of Covent Garden, except that six or seven of -the central boxes, in each tier, encroach upon the oval figure by a -projection over the pit. The boxes are let by the year; the price of -admission for non-subscribers, is a florin, for which they may find -places in the box, engaged by their friends, or in the pit, which is -in the same proportion of esteem as that at an Opera-house. - -The performances are plays and operas alternately; both in German; -and the music of the latter chiefly by German composers. The players -are very far beneath mediocrity; but the orchestra, when we heard it, -accorded with the fame of German musicians, for spirit and precision. -In these qualities even the wandering parties, that play at inns, are -very seldom deficient. - -The stage was well lighted, but the other parts of the theatre were -left in duskiness, which scarcely permitted us to see the diamonds, -profusely worn by several ladies. Six o'clock is the hour of beginning, -and the performances conclude soon after nine. - -The Cabinet Literaire and the Theatre are the only permanent places -of public amusement at Franckfort, which is, however, in want of no -more, the inhabitants being accustomed to pass much of their time -in friendly parties, at their houses. Though wealth is, of course, -earnestly and universally sought for in a place purely mercantile, we -were assured, that the richest persons, and there are some, who have -above half a million sterling, find no more attention in these parties -than others. This was acknowledged and separately boasted of by some -of the very rich, and by those who were comparatively poor. We are so -far able to report it for true, as that we could never discern the -least traces of the officiousness, or subserviency that, in a corrupt -and debased state of society, frequently point to the wealthiest -individuals in every private party. - -These and many other circumstances would probably render Franckfort a -place of residence for foreigners, if the magistrates, either dreading -the increase of luxury, or the interference of strangers with their -commerce, did not prevent this by prohibiting them from being lodged -otherwise than at inns. It was with difficulty, that an English -officer, acting as Commissary to some of the German regiments, lately -raised upon our pay, could obtain an exemption from this rule, at the -request of the Hanoverian Minister. - -Round the city, are several well-disposed walks, as pleasant as the -flatness of the nearer country will permit; and, at intervals, along -these, are the country houses of the merchants, who do not choose -to go beyond the city territories, for a residence. Saxenhausen, a -small town, on the other side of the Maine, though incorporated with -Franckfort, as to jurisdiction, and connected with it by a bridge, is -chiefly inhabited by watermen and other labourers. - -We left Franckfort, after a stay of six days, fortified by a German -passport from M. de Swartzhoff, the Hanoverian Minister, who -obligingly advised us to be prepared with one in the native language -of the Austrian officers. At Mentz, the ceremonies of examination were -rendered much more troublesome than before, the Governor, General -Kalkreuth, happening to be in the great square, who chose to make -several travellers wait as if for a sort of review before him, though, -after all, nothing was to be said but "Go to the Commandant, who will -look at your passports." This Commandant was M. de Lucadou, a gentleman -of considerate and polite manners, who, knowing our friends in Mentz, -added to his confirmation of M. de Swartzhoff's passport an address to -M. de Wilde, the Intendant of some salt mines in Switzerland, which -he recommended to us to see. These circumstances are necessary to -be mentioned here, because they soon led to a disagreeable and very -contradictory event in our journey. - -The next morning, we set out from Mentz, and were conducted by our -voiturier over a summer road, on the left bank of the Rhine, then -flowing with the melted snows of Switzerland. - - - - -OPPENHEIM. - - -This is the first town of the Palatinate, on arriving from the north; -and it bears marks of the devastation, inflicted upon that country, in -the last century, more flagrant than could be expected, when the length -of the intervening time, and the complete recovery of other cities from -similar disasters, are considered. Louis the Fourteenth's fury has -converted it from a populous city into little more than a picturesque -ruin. It was burned in 1668; and the walls, which remain in double, or -sometimes in treble circles, are more visible, at a distance, than -the streets, which have been thinly erected within them. Above all, -is the _Landscroon_, or crown of the country, a castle erected on an -eminence, which commands the Rhine, and dignifies the view from it, for -several miles. The whole city, or rather ruin, stands on a brow, over -this majestic river. - -The gates do not now open directly into streets, but into lanes of -stone walls between vineyards and gardens, formed on the site of -houses, never restored, since the fire. The town itself has shrunk -from its antient limits into a few streets in the centre. In some of -the interstices, corn grows up to the walls of the present houses. In -others the ruins of former buildings remain, which the owners have not -been tempted to remove, for the sake of cultivating their sites. Of the -cathedral, said to have been once the finest on the Rhine, nearly all -the walls and the tower still exist; but these are the only remains -of grandeur in a city, which seems entirely incapable of overcoming in -this century the wretchedness it inherits from the last. - -Had the walls been as strong as they are extensive, this place might -not improbably have endured a siege in the present age, having been -several times lost and regained. It was surrendered to the French, -without a contest, in the campaign of 1792. After their retreat from -Worms, and during the siege of Mentz, it was occupied by the Prussians; -and, in December 1793, when the allies retired from Alsace, the Duke -of Brunswick established his head-quarters in it, for the purpose of -covering the fortress. His army ovens remained near the northern gate, -in July 1794, when we passed through it. In October of the same year it -fell again into the hands of the French. - -No city on the banks of the Rhine is so well seated for affording a -view of it as this, which, to the north, overlooks all its windings -as far as Mentz, and, southward, commands them towards Worms. The -river is also here of a noble breadth and force, beating so vehemently -against the watermills, moored near the side, that they seem likely to -be borne away with the current. A city might be built on the site of -Oppenheim, which should faintly rival the castle of Goodesberg, in the -richness, though not in the sublimity of its prospect. - -From hence the road leads through a fertile country of corn and -vines, but at a greater distance from the river, to Worms, five or -six miles from which it becomes broad, straight, and bordered with -regularly-planted trees, that form an avenue to the city. Soon after -leaving Oppenheim, we had the first symptom of an approach to the -immediate theatre of the war, meeting a waggon, loaded with wounded -soldiers. On this road, there was a long train of carriages, taking -stores to some military _depôt_. The defacement of the Elector's arms, -on posts near the road, shewed also, that the country had been lately -occupied by the French; as the delay in cutting the ripe corn did, that -there was little expectation of their return. - - - - -WORMS. - - -The condition of Worms is an aggravated repetition of the wretchedness -of Oppenheim. It suffered something in the war, which the unfortunate -Elector, son-in-law of our James the First, provoked by accepting the -kingdom of Bohemia. Louis the Fourteenth came upon it next, and, in -1669, burned every thing that could be consumed. Nothing was restored, -but on that part, which was the centre of the antient city; and the -walls include, as at Oppenheim, corn and vineyards upon the ground, -which was once covered with houses, and which plainly appears to have -been so, from the lanes that pass between, and doors that open into the -inclosures. A much larger space is so covered, than at Oppenheim, for -you are some time in driving from the northern gate of the old city to -the first street of the present one. - -On the right of the road stands the skeleton of the Electoral palace, -which the French burned in one of the late campaigns; and it is as -curious as melancholy to observe how the signs of antient and modern -desolation mingle with each other. On one hand is a palace, burned by -the present French; on the other, the walls of a church, laid open by -Louis the Fourteenth. - -The first and principal street of the place leads through these mingled -ruins, and through rows of dirty houses, miserably tenanted, to the -other end of the city. A few others branch from it, chiefly towards the -Rhine, including sometimes the ruins, and sometimes the repaired parts -of churches; of which streets, narrow, ill-paved and gloomy, consists -the city of Worms. The French General, that lately wrote to Paris, "We -entered the fair episcopal city of Worms," may be supposed to have -derived his terms from a geographical dictionary, rather than from a -view of his conquest. - -We were now in a place, occupied by part of the acting army of the -allies, which, if not immediately liable to be attacked, was to be -defended by the maintenance of posts, at a very short distance. Troops -passed through it daily, for the service of these posts. The noise -of every cannonade was audible, and the result of every engagement -was immediately known, for it might make an advance, or a retreat -necessary from Worms. The wounded men arrived, soon after the -intelligence, to the military hospitals of the Prussians. A city, so -circumstanced, seemed to differ but little from a camp; and we were -aware, for a few hours, of a departure from the security and order of -civil life. - -The inn, which was not otherwise a mean building, was nearly destitute -of furniture; so that the owner was prepared to receive any sort of -guests, or masters. The only provision which we could obtain was bread, -the commonest sort of wine, and one piece of cold veal; for the city -was under military jurisdiction, and no guests were allowed to have -more than one dish at their table. - -In the afternoon, we saw, for the first time, a crowd in a German city. -A narrow waggon, of which nearly all but the wheels was basket-work, -had arrived from the army, with a wounded officer, who lay upon the -floor, supported by his servant, but occasionally rose to return the -salutes of passengers. This was the Prince of Anhalt Plessis, who -had been wounded, in the morning, when the French attacked all the -neighbouring lines of the allies, and an indecisive engagement ensued, -the noise of which had been distinctly heard, at Worms. He was hurt in -the leg, and descended, with much difficulty, from the waggon; but did -not, for an instant, lose the elegance of his address, and continued -bowing through the passage to his apartment. No doubt was entertained -of his recovery, but there seemed to be a considerable degree of -sympathy, attending this young man. - -We had not time to look into the churches, or numerous monasteries, -that yet remain, at Worms; the war appeared to have depopulated the -latter, for not a monk was to be seen. The cathedral, or church of -St. Mary and St. Peter, is one of the most antient sacred buildings -in Germany, having been founded at least as early as the commencement -of the seventh century. One of the prebends was established in 1033, -another in 1058. The Dominicans, Carmelites, Capuchins and Augustines -have each a monastery, at Worms; as have the Cistercians and the -Augustines a nunnery. A Protestant church was also consecrated, on the -9th of June 1744; something more than two hundred years, after the -ineffectual conference held here of Protestant and Catholic divines, -which Charles the Fifth interrupted, when Melancthon, on one side, and -Echius, on the other, had engaged in it, ordering them to resume their -arguments, in his presence, at Ratisbon. This meeting was five years -previous to the celebrated diet of Worms, at which Charles, having then -estimated the temporal strength of the two parties, openly shewed his -animosity to the Protestants, as Maurice of Saxony did his intriguing -ambition, by referring the question to the Council of Trent. - -The Jews, at Worms, inhabit a separate street, and have a synagogue, of -great antiquity, their numbers having been once such as to endanger the -peace of the city; but, in 1689, when the French turned their synagogue -into a stable, they fled with the rest of the opulent inhabitants -to Holland. Those of the present day can have very few articles of -traffic, except money, the changing of which may have been frequent, on -account of the neighbourhood of France. - -Worms is somewhat connected with English history, having been occupied -by the troops, which James the First uselessly sent to the assistance -of the proscribed Elector Palatine, when his just abhorrence of -continental wars was once, though tardily, overcome by the entreaties -of his daughter. Here too George the Second held his head-quarters, -from the 7th to the 20th of September 1743; on the 14th of which month, -Lord Carteret concluded, in his name, an offensive and defensive treaty -with the Ministers of Hungary and Sardinia. - -This city, like Cologne, retains some affectation of the Roman form -of government, to which it was rendered subject by Cæsar, with the -title of _Augusta Vangionum_. The STADTMEISTER is sometimes called the -CONSUL, and the SCHULTHEIS, or Mayor, the PRÆTOR. But, in 1703, some -trivial tumult afforded a pretence for abolishing its little remains -of liberty, and the Elector Palatine was declared its protector. This -blow completed the desolation, which the disasters of the preceding -century had commenced; and a city, that was once called the market of -the Palatinate, as the Palatinate was reputed the market of Germany, -continues to exhibit nothing more than the ruins of its antient -prosperity. - -Few of the present inhabitants can be the descendants of those, who -witnessed its destruction in 1689; for we could not find, that the -particulars of that event were much known, or commemorated by them, -dreadful and impressive as they must have been. A column of Louis -the Fourteenth's army had entered the city, in September of the -preceding year, under the command of the Marquis de Bonfleur, who soon -distressed the inhabitants by preparations for blowing up the walls -with gunpowder. The mines were so numerous and large, as to threaten -nothing less than the entire overwhelming of the city; but, being fired -at different times, the walls of the houses were left standing, though -they shook with almost every explosion. The artillery and balls had -been previously carried away to Landau, or Mentz, then possessed by -Louis. At length, on the 12th of May 1689, the Intendant sent the -melancholy news to the magistracy, that he had received orders from -his monarch to burn the whole city. Six days were allowed for the -departure of the inhabitants and the removal of their property; which -period was prolonged by their entreaties to nineteen. At the expiration -of these, on Ascension Day, the 31st of May, the French grenadiers -were employed from twelve o'clock, till four, in placing combustibles -about the houses and public buildings, against several of which large -heaps of hay and straw were raised. The word being then given, fire -was set to almost every house at once, and, in a few hours, the city -was reduced to ashes; the conflagration being so general and strong as -to be visible in day-light at the distance of more than thirty English -miles. Such was one of the calamities of a city, so unfortunately -situated, that the chapter of the cathedral alone proved a loss by -wars, previous to the year 1743, amounting to 1,262,749 florins. - -The attention, due to so memorable a place, detained us at Worms, till -the voiturier talked of being unable to reach Manheim, before the gates -would be shut, and we let him drive vehemently towards - - - - -FRANCKENTHAL, - - -Another place, destroyed by Louis the Fourteenth, but restored upon a -plan so uniform and convenient, that nothing but a fuller population -is necessary to confirm its title of a flourishing city. The streets, -which intersect each other at right angles, are wide and exactly -straight; the houses are handsomely built, but the poverty or indolence -of the owners suffers them to partake of the air of neglect, which is -general in German habitations; and the streets, though spacious and -not ill-paved, had so few passengers, that the depopulation of the -place seemed to be rendered the more observable by its grandeur. - -Yet it would be unfair to estimate the general prosperity of -Franckenthal by its present circumstances, even had we stayed long -enough to know them more accurately. This place had been occupied but -a few weeks before by the French army, who had plundered it, as well -as several other towns of the Palatinate, after the retreat of the -allies from Alsace, at the latter end of 1793. The inhabitants had, for -the most part, returned to their houses; but their commerce, which is -said to have been not contemptible, could not be so easily restored. -The manufactures of porcelain, cloths, silks, spangles, vinegar and -soap, of which some were established and all are protected by the -wise liberality of the Elector, though far from being answerable, -either in their capitals, or produce, to the English idea of similar -enterprises, command some share with England and France in supplying -the rest of Germany. One method of facilitating the operations of -trade the Elector has advantageously adopted here; that of instituting -a court upon the spot for the decision of all causes, in which the -traders are interested; and at his expence a navigable canal has been -formed from the town to the Rhine. Artists and merchants have also some -privileges, at Franckenthal, of which that of being exempt from the -military press is not the least. - -This press, or levy, is the method, by which all the German Princes -return their contingents to the army of the Empire. The population of -every town and district in their dominions is known with sufficient -accuracy, and a settled number of recruits is supplied by each. When -these are wanted, notice is given, that the men of a certain age -must assemble and cast lots for the service. Those, who are drawn, may -find substitutes, but with this condition, that the deputy must be at -least as tall as his principal; a regulation, which makes the price -of substitutes depend upon their height, and frequently renders it -impossible for the principals to avail themselves of the permission. A -farmer in this neighbourhood, who was considerably above six feet in -height, could not obtain a substitute for less than a hundred louis -d'ors. - -Another unpleasant condition is attached to this exchange: if the -substitute is disabled, or deserts, another must be supplied; and, if -he carries his arm or accoutrements away, these must be paid for by the -person, who sent him. - -After a ride of a few miles, we reached - - - - -OGGERSHEIM, - - -A small town, on the west bank of the Rhine, rebuilt in uniform -streets, like Franckenthal, having been destroyed by the same exertion -of Louis the Fourteenth's cruelty. Here also the modern French had -very lately been, and some of the ruins, left near the road by Louis, -appeared to have served them for kitchens in their excursion. - -At the east end of the town, towards the Rhine, stands a chateau -of the Elector, built with modern, but not very admirable taste, -and commanding the distant river in several fine points of view. We -could not be admitted to see the inside, which is said to have been -splendidly decorated; for the French had just dismantled it of the -furniture. - -The road from hence to Manheim was bordered for its whole length, of -at least two miles, by rows of poplars, of which some still remain near -Oggersheim; but those within a mile and a half of Manheim have been -felled at one or two feet from the ground. This was done in December -1793, when the French began to advance from Landau, and were expected -to besiege Manheim, their operations against which might have been -covered, in some measure, by this noble alley. - -Near the Rhine, the road is now commanded by two forts, of which one -was thrown up during the approach of the French, and completed in the -middle of the summer, with great care. These contribute much to the -present security of the city, which might otherwise be bombarded from -the opposite bank of the river, even by an enemy, who should not be -able and should not propose to attempt the conquest of the place. They -are ditched and pallisadoed, but, being divided from the body of the -city, by the Rhine, are, of course, without the communication, which -renders such works capable of a long defence. Round one of these forts, -the road now winds, entering a part of the works, near the bridge, -where there is a guard-house for the troops of the Elector. - - - - -MANHEIM. - - -It was twilight, when we approached Manheim; and the palace, the -numerous turrets and the fortifications had their grandeur probably -increased by the obscurity. The bridge of boats is not so long as that -at Mentz; but we had time enough in passing it to observe the extent of -the city, on the left of which the Neckar pours itself into the Rhine, -so that two sides are entirely washed by their streams. At the next -guard-house, where we were detained by the usual enquiries, the troops -were more numerous; and surely no military figures ever accorded so -well with the gloomy gates, and walls they guarded. The uniform of the -Palatine light troops is a close jacket of motley brown, and pantaloons -of the same that reach to their half-boots. They have black helmets, -with crests and fronts of brass, large whiskers, and their faces, by -constant exposure to the sun, are of the deepest brown that can be, -without approaching to black. As they stood singly on the ramparts, or -in groups at the gates, their bronze faces and Roman helmets seemed of -a deeper hue, than the gloom, that partly concealed their figures. - -The entrance into Manheim, from the Rhine, is by a spacious street, -which leads directly into the centre of the city, and to a large -square, planted with limes, consisting, on one side, of public -buildings, and, on the other, of several noble houses, one of which -is the chief inn, called the _Cour Palatine_. This is the first city -in Germany, that can answer, by its appearance, the expectations of a -foreigner, who has formed them from books. Its aspect is truly that of -a capital and of the residence of a Court; except that in the day-time -a traveller may be somewhat surprised at the fewness of passengers and -the small shew of traffic, amidst such public buildings, and in streets -of such convenience and extent. The fairness, the grandeur and the -stateliness, which he may have seen attributed to other German cities, -till he is as much disgusted as deceived by every idea derived from -description, may be perceived in several parts of Manheim, and the -justness of disposition in all. - -Nor is the beauty of the present city solely owing to the destruction -of the antient one by Louis the Fourteenth, in 1689, the year of -general devastation in the Palatinate. It was laid out in right lines, -though to a less extent, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, -when Frederic the Fifth laid the foundation of the fortifications, -behind which a town was built, that adopted the antient name of -Manheim, from a neighbouring one then in decay. These were the -fortifications and the town destroyed by the French in 1689. The plan -of both was but extended, when the present works were formed upon the -system of Cohorn, and the city by degrees restored, with streets, -which, intersecting each other at right angles, divide it into an -hundred and seven square portions. The number of the inhabitants, -exclusive of the garrison, was, in 1784, 21,858. - -Some of the streets are planted with rows of trees, and there are -five or six open places, suitable for promenades, or markets. The -customhouse, which forms a side to one of these, is a noble stone -building, rather appearing to be a palace, than an office, except that -under the colonnades, which surround it, are shops for jewellery and -other commodities. - -The Electoral palace, which opens, on one side, to the city, and, on -the other, to the ramparts, was built by the Elector Charles-Philippe, -who, in the year 1721, removed his residence hither from Heidelberg, on -account of some difference with the magistrates, or, as is said, of the -prevalence of religious disputes in that city. He began to erect it in -1720; but the edifice was not completed, till the right wing was added -by the present Elector, not to be used as a residence, but to contain -a gallery of paintings, cabinets of antiquities and natural history, -a library, treasury and _manege_. We passed a morning in viewing the -apartments in the other wing, all the paintings and books having been -removed from this, as well as great part of the furniture from the -whole palace, in the dread of an approaching bombardment. The person, -who shewed them, took care to keep the credit of each room safe, by -assuring us at the door, that it was not in its usual condition. The -Elector had been, for some months, at Munich, but the Duke and Duchess -of Deux Ponts and their family have resided in this palace, since their -retirement from Deux Ponts, in the latter end of the campaign of 1792. - -The rooms are all lofty, and floored with inlaid work of oak and -chesnut; the ceilings, for the most part, painted; and the walls -covered with tapestry, finely wrought, both as to colour and design. -Some of this came from a manufactory, established by the Elector, at -Franckenthal. - -The furniture, left in several of the rooms, was grand and antient, but -could never have been so costly as those, who have seen the mansions -of wealthy individuals in England, would expect to find in a palace. -The Elector's state-bed was inclosed not only by a railing, but by a -glass case to the height of the ceiling, with windows, that could be -opened at pleasure, to permit a conversation with his courtiers, when -compliments were paid literally at a levee. In the court of France, -this practice continued even to very late years, and there were three -distinct privileges of entrée, denoting the time, at which persons of -different classes were permitted to enter the chamber. In the Earl of -Portland's embassy for King William to Louis the Fourteenth, it was -thought a signal mark of honour, that he was admitted to his audience, -not only in the chamber, but within the rails; and there the French -Monarch stood with the three young Princes, his grandsons, the Count de -Tholouse, the Duke d'Aumont and the Mareschal de Noailles. The Duke -made his speech covered, after which the King entered into conversation -with him, for several minutes. - -One room, at Manheim, was called the Silver Chamber, from the quantity -of solid silver, used about the furniture. Such articles as could be -carried away entire, had been removed, but the walls were disfigured by -the loss of the ornaments torn from them, on account of their value. In -several rooms, the furniture, that remained, was partly packed, to be -carried away upon the next alarm. The contents of the wardrobe were in -this state, and the interior of these now desolated apartments seemed -like the skeleton of grandeur. The beauty of the painted ceilings, -however, the richness of the various prospects, commanded by the -windows, and the great extent of the building sufficiently accounted -for the reputation, which this palace has, of being the finest in -Germany. - -It is built of stone, which has somewhat the reddish hue of that used -at Mentz, and, though several parts are positively disapproved by -persons of skill in architecture, the whole is certainly a grand and -sumptuous building. - -The situation of Manheim and the scenery around it are viewed to -great advantage from the tower of the Observatory, in which strangers -are politely received by the Professor of Astronomy, whose residence -is established in it. From this are seen the fruitful plains of the -Palatinate, spreading, on all sides, to bold mountains, of which those -of Lorrain, that extend on the west, lose in distance the variety of -their colouring, and, assuming a blue tint, retain only the dignity -of their form. Among these, the vast and round headland, called the -_Tonnesberg_, which is in sight, during the greatest part of the -journey from Mentz to Manheim, is pre-eminent. - -But the chain, that binds the horizon on the east, and is known by -the name of the _Bergstrasse_, or road of mountains, is near enough -to display all their wild irregularity of shape, the forest glens, -to which they open, and the various tints of rock and soil, of red -and purple, that mingle with the corn and wood on their lower steeps. -These mountains are seen in the north from their commencement near -Franckfort, and this line is never interrupted from thence southward -into Switzerland. The rivals to them, on the south west, are the -mountains of Alsace, which extend in long perspective, and at a -distance appear to unite with those of the Bergstrasse. Among the -numerous towns and villages that throng the Palatinate, the spires of -Oppenheim and Worms are distinctly visible to the north; almost beneath -the eye are those of Franckenthal, and Oggersheim, and to the southward -Spires shews its many towers. - -In the nearer scene the Neckar, after tumbling from among the forests -of the Bergstrasse, falls into the Rhine, a little below the walls of -Manheim; and the gardens of a summer chateau belonging to the Elector -occupy the angle between the two rivers. - -These gardens were now surrendered by the Prince to be the camp of -three thousand of his troops, detached from the garrison of the city, -which, at this time, consisted of nearly ten thousand men. In several -places, on the banks of the two rivers, batteries were thrown up, and, -near the camp, a regular fort, for the purpose of commanding both; -so that Manheim, by its natural and artificial means of defence, was -supposed to be rendered nearly unassailable, on two sides. On that of -Heidelberg, it was not so secure; nor could the others be defended by -a garrison of less than 15,000 men. It was on this account, that the -Elector detained ten thousand of his troops from actual service, -contrary, as is said, to the remonstrances of the Emperor, who offered, -but without success, to garrison his capital with Austrians. From the -observatory, the camp and the works were easily seen, and, by the help -of a Dollond telescope, the only optical instrument remaining, the -order of both was so exactly pointed out by our guide, that it was -not difficult to comprehend the uses of them. Military preparations, -indeed, occurred very frequently in Manheim. In the gardens of the -chief Electoral palace, extending to the ramparts over the Rhine, -cannon were planted, which were as regularly guarded by sentinels as in -the other parts of the fortifications. - -All the gates of Manheim appear to be defended by fortifications of -unusual strength. Besides two broad ditches, there are batteries, -which play directly upon the bridges, and might destroy them in a few -minutes. The gates are guarded, with the utmost strictness, and no -person is suffered to enter them, after ten at night, without the -express permission of the governor. When a courier arrives, who wishes -to use his privilege of passing, at all hours, he puts some token -of his office into a small tin box, which is kept on the outside of -the ditch, to be drawn across it by a cord, that runs upon a roller -on each bank. The officer of the guard carries this to the governor, -and obtains the keys; but so much time is passed in this sort of -application, that couriers, when the nights are short, usually wait the -opening of the gates, which is soon after day-light, in summer, and at -six, or seven, in winter. - -The absence of the Elector, we were assured, had much altered the -appearance of Manheim, where scarcely a carriage was now to be seen, -though there were traces enough of the gaiety and general splendour -of this little Court. Here are an Opera House, a German Comedy, an -Amateur Concert, an Electoral Lottery, an Academy of Sculpture and -Design, and an Academy of Sciences. The Opera performances are held -in a wing of the palace, and were established in 1742, but have not -attained much celebrity, being supported chiefly by performers from -the other Theatre. This last is called a national establishment, the -players being Germans, and the Theatre founded in 1779 at the expence -of the Elector. The Baron de Dahlberg, one of his Ministers, has the -superintendance of it. The Amateur Concert is held, every Friday, -during the winter, and is much frequented. - -The Electoral Lotteries, for there are two, are drawn in the presence -of the Minister of Finances, and one of them is less disadvantageous -for the gamesters than is usual with such undertakings. That, which -consists of chances determined in the customary way, gives the -Elector an advantage of only five to four over the subscribers. The -other, which is formed upon the more intricate model of that of Genoa, -entitles the subscribers to prizes, proportioned to the number of times -a certain ticket issues from the wheel, five numbers being drawn out of -ninety, or rather five drawings of one number each being successively -made out of ninety tickets. A ticket, which issues once in these five -drawings, wins fifteen times the value of the stake; one, that should -be drawn each of the five times, would entitle the owner to have his -original stake multiplied by sixty thousand, and the product would -be his prize. The undertaker of this latter Lottery has the chances -immensely in his favour. - -From the very large income, to which these Lotteries contribute a part, -the present Elector has certainly made considerable disbursements, -with useful purposes, if not to useful effects. Of his foundation are -the Academy of Sciences, which was opened in 1763, for weekly sittings, -and has proceeded to some correspondence with other Academies; the -German Society, established for the easy purpose of purifying and the -difficult one of fixing language; the Cabinet of Physics, or rather -of experimental philosophy, celebrated for the variety and magnitude -of its instruments, among which are two burning glasses of three feet -diameter, said to be capable of liquefying bodies, even bottles filled -with water, at 10 feet distance; the Observatory, of 108 feet high, in -which all the chief instruments were English; a Botanical Garden and -Directorship; an Academy of Sculpture, and a Cabinet of Engravings and -Drawings, formed under the direction of M. Krahe of Dusseldorff, in 400 -folio volumes. - -Of all these establishments, none of the ornaments, or materials, -that were portable, now remain at Manheim. The astronomical -instruments, the celebrated collection of statues, the paintings and -the prints have been removed, together with the Electoral treasure -of diamonds and jewels, some to Munich and some to other places of -security. But, though we missed a sight, which even its rarity would -have rendered welcome, it seems proper, after such frequent notice of -the barrenness of Germany, to mention what has been collected in one of -its chief cities. - -The expectation of an attack had dismantled other houses, besides -the Elector's, of their furniture; for, in the Cour Palatine, a very -spacious, and really a good inn, not a curtain and scarcely a spoon was -left. _A cause de la guerre_ was, indeed, the general excuse for every -deficiency, used by those, who had civility enough to offer one; but, -in truth, the war had not often incroached upon the ordinary stock of -conveniencies in Germany, which was previously too low to be capable -of much reduction. The places, which the French had actually entered, -are, of course, to be excepted; but it may otherwise be believed, that -Germany can lose little by a war, more than the unfortunate labourers, -whom it forces to become soldiers. The loss of wealth must come -chiefly from other countries. A rich nation may give present treasure; -a commercial nation may give both present treasure and the means of -future competence. - -The land near Manheim is chiefly planted with tobacco and madder, -and the landscape is enlivened with small, but neat countryhouses, -scattered along the margin of the Neckar. The neighbourhood abounds in -pleasant rides, and, whether you wind the high banks of the majestic -Rhine, or the borders of the more tranquil Neckar, the mountains of the -Bergstrasse, tumbled upon each other in wild confusion, generally -form the magnificent back ground of the scene. - -On returning from an excursion of this kind at the close of evening, -the soldiers at the gates are frequently heard chanting martial -songs in parts and chorus; a sonorous music in severe unison with -the solemnity of the hour and the imperfect forms, that meet the -eye, of sentinels keeping watch beneath the dusky gateways, while -their brethren, reposing on the benches without, mingle their voices -in the deep chorus. Rude and simple as are these strains, they are -often singularly impressive, and touch the imagination with something -approaching to horror, when the circumstances of the place are -remembered, and it is considered how soon these men, sent to inflict -death on others, may themselves be thrown into the unnumbered heap of -the military slain. - - - - -SCHWETZINGEN. - - -An excellent road, sheltered for nine English miles by rows of high -poplars, conducted us through richly cultivated plains from Manheim to -Schwetzingen, a small village, distinguished by an Electoral chateau -and gardens. This was one of the pleasantest rides we had found in -Germany, for the road, though it exhibited little of either the wild -or picturesque, frequently opened towards the mountains, bright with -a variety of colouring, and then again was shrouded among woods and -plantations, that bordered the neighbouring fields, and brought faintly -to remembrance the style and mingled verdure of our native landscape. - -Schwetzingen had been very lately the Austrian head-quarters, for the -army of the Upper Rhine, and some soldiers were still stationed near -the road to guard an immense magazine of wood; but there were otherwise -no military symptoms about the place. - -The chateau is an old and inelegant building, not large enough to -have been ever used as a formal residence. The present Elector has -added to it two wings, each of six hundred feet long, but so low, that -the apartments are all on the ground floor. Somewhat of that air of -neglect, which can sadden even the most delightful scenes, is visible -here; several of the windows are broken, and the theatre, music-room, -and ball-room, which have been laid out in one of the wings, are -abandoned to dust and lumber. - -The gardens, however, are preserved in better order. Before the palace, -a long vista of lawn and wood, with numerous and spacious fountains, -guarded by statues, display something of the old French manner; other -parts shew charming scenery, and deep sylvan recesses, where nature -is again at liberty; in a bay formed by the woods is an amphitheatre -of fragrant orange trees, placed in front of a light semi-circular -green-house, and crowned with lofty groves. Near this delicious spot, -extends a bending arcade of lattice-work, interwoven with vines and -many beautifully flowering plants; a sort of structure, the filagree -lightness of which it is impossible not to admire, against precept, and -perhaps, when general effect is considered, against necessary taste. In -another part, sheltered by the woods, is an edifice in the style of a -Turkish mosque, with its light cloistered courts, slender minarets, and -painted entrances, inscribed with Arabic mottos, which by the German -translations appear to express the pleasure of friendly conversation -and of indolence in summer. The gardens have this result of a judicious -arrangement, that they seem to extend much beyond their real limits, -which we discovered only by ascending one of the minarets. They are -open to the public, during great part of every day, under certain rules -for their preservation, of which copies are pasted up in several places. - - - - -CARLSRUHE. - - -At Schwetzingen the fine Electoral road concludes, and we began to -wind along the skirts of a forest on the left, having on the right -an open corn country, beyond which appeared the towers of Spires and -Philipsburg, of which the former was then the head-quarters of the -Austrian army, and the latter is memorable for having given birth to -Melancthon in 1491. Waghausel and Bruchsal are small posting places -in this route, at a village between which we had another instance of -the little attention paid to travellers in Germany. At a small inn, -noxious with some fumigation used against bugs, we were detained a -quarter of an hour, because the landlord, who had gone out after our -arrival, had not left word how much we should pay, and the poor old -woman, who, without shoes or stockings, attended us, was terrified when -we talked of leaving what was proper, and proceeding before his return. - -About a mile beyond Bruchsal our postillion quitted the chaussée, -and entered a summer road, through the deep and extensive forest of -Carlsruhe, preserved by the Margrave of Baden for the shelter of -game. Avenues cut through this forest for nine or ten miles in every -direction, converge at his palace and city of Carlsruhe, as at a point. -Other cruelties than those of the chase sometimes take place in these -delightful scenes, for an amphitheatre has been formed in the woods, -where imitations of a Spanish bull feast have been exhibited; to such -horrid means of preventing vacuity of mind has a prince had recourse, -who is otherwise distinguished for the elegance of his taste, and the -suavity of his manners! - -The scenery of this forest is very various. Sometimes we found our way -through groves of ancient pine and fir, so thickly planted that their -lower branches were withered for want of air, and it seemed as if the -carriage could not proceed between them; at others we passed under the -spreading shade of chesnuts, oak and walnut, and crossed many a cool -stream, green with the impending foliage, on whose sequestered bank one -almost expected to see the moralizing Jacques; so exactly did the scene -accord with Shakespeare's description. The woods again opening, we -found ourselves in a noble avenue, and saw the stag gracefully bounding -across it "to more profound repose;" while now and then a hut, formed -of rude green planks under some old oak, seemed, by its smoked sides, -to have often afforded a sheltered repast to hunting parties. - -Near Carlsruhe the gardens of the Prince and then the palace become -visible, the road winding along them, on the edge of the forest, till -it enters the northern gate of the city, the uniformity of which has -the same date as its completion, the ground plot having been entirely -laid out between January and June 1715, on the 17th of which month the -Margrave Charles William laid the foundation stone. - -The streets are accordingly spacious, light, and exactly straight; but -not so magnificent as those of Manheim, and still less enlivened with -passengers. Since the commencement of the war, the gaieties of the -Court, which afforded some occupation to the inhabitants, have ceased; -the nobility have left their houses; and the Margrave is contented -with the amusements of his library, in which English literature is -said to fill a considerable space. - -Carlsruhe has the advantage of not being fortified; so that the -inhabitants are not oppressed by a numerous garrison, and strangers -pass through it, though so near the seat of war, without interruption. -It is less than Manheim by at least half, and has no considerable -public building, except the palace, from the spacious area before -which, all the streets proceed as _radii_, till their furthest ends -fill up the figure of a semicircle. The houses in the area, which -immediately front the palace, are built over a piazza interrupted only -by the commencement of the streets. The palace has, of course, an -unexampled advantage in the mixture of town and rural scenery in its -prospects, looking on one side through all the streets of the city, and -on the other through thirty-two forest alleys, cut to various lengths -of from ten to fifteen English miles each; few, however, of the latter -prospects are now commanded except from the upper windows, the present -Elector having entirely changed the style of the intervening gardens, -and permitted them to be laid out in the English taste, without respect -to the thirty-two intersections, that rendered them conformable with -the forest. - -We passed part of two days at Carlsruhe, and were chiefly in these -gardens, which are of the most enchanting beauty and richness. The -warmth of the climate draws up colours for the shrubs and plants, -which we thought could not be equalled in more northern latitudes; two -thousand and seven hundred orange and lemon trees, loaded with fruit -and blossoms, perfumed the air; and choice shrubs, marked with the -Linnean distinctions, composed the thickets. The gardens, being limited -only by the forests, appear to unite with them; and the deep verdure -and luxuriance of the latter are contrasted sweetly with the tender -green of the lawns and plants, and with the variety of scarce and -majestic trees, mingled with the garden groves. - -The palace is a large and sumptuous, though not an elegant edifice, -built of stone like all the rest of the city, and at the same period. -The Margrave generally resides in it, and has rendered it a valuable -home, by adding greatly to the library, filling an observatory with -excellent instruments, and preserving the whole structure in a -condition not usual in Germany. The spot, compared with the surrounding -country, appeared like Milton's Eden--like Paradise opened in the wild. - -Beyond Carlsruhe the road begins to approach the Rhine, which we had -lost sight of near Manheim; and, though the river is never within view, -the country is considered as a military frontier, being constantly -patrolled by troops. Some of these were of the Prince of Condé's army -of emigrants, who have no uniform, and are distinguished only by the -white cockade, and by a bandage of white linen, impressed with black -_fleurs de lis_, upon the right arm. They were chiefly on foot, and -then wore only their swords, without fire-arms. - -Near the road, a small party of Austrians were guarding a magazine, -before a tent, marked, like their regimentals, with green upon white. -Soon afterwards, our postillion drew up on one side, to permit a train -of carriages to pass, and immediately announced the _Prinz von Condé_, -who was in an open landau, followed by two covered waggons for his -kitchen and laundry, and by a coach with attendants. - -He appeared to be between fifty and sixty; tall, not corpulent, and of -an air, which might have announced the French courtier, if his rank had -been unknown. A star was embroidered upon his military surtout, but -he had no guards, though travelling within the jurisdiction allotted -to him as a general officer. So little was the road frequented at this -period, that his was the second or third carriage we had met, except -military waggons, since leaving Mentz; a distance of more than eighty -English miles. - -The road for the whole stage between Carlsruhe and Rastadt, about -fifteen miles, is planted, as seems customary in Germany between -the palaces of sovereigns, with lofty trees, of which the shade was -extremely refreshing at this season; the clouds of sand, that rose from -the road, would otherwise have made the heat intolerable. - -The first house in Rastadt is the palace of the Margrave of Baden -Baden, brother of the Margrave of Baden Durlach, whose residence is at -Carlsruhe, a small and heavy building, that fronts the avenue, and is -surrounded with stone walls. The interior is said to be splendidly -decorated, and a chamber is preserved in the state, in which Prince -Eugene and Marshal Villars left it in 1714, after concluding the peace -between the Emperor and Louis the Fourteenth. The Prince of Baden, -being then a general in the service of the Emperor, had not been able -to escape the vengeance of Louis, whose troops in 1688 first plundered, -and then burnt, the palace and city, and in the war of the Succession -they had a camp on the adjoining plain. The Prince is therefore -supposed to have lent the palace, which he had rebuilt, with the more -readiness, that the Marshal might see how perfectly he could overcome -his loss. The plunder of the city in 1688 had continued for five days, -and it is mentioned in its history that the French carried away fifteen -waggon loads of wine of the vintage of 1572. - -Rastadt, like Carlsruhe, is built upon one plan, but is as inferior -to it in beauty, as in size. The chief street is, however, uncommonly -broad, so much so, that the upper end is used as a market-place, and -the statue of the founder, Prince Louis, in the centre, is seen with -all the advantages of space and perspective. There is, notwithstanding, -little appearance of traffic, and the inhabitants seemed to be much -less numerous than the emigrant corps, which was then stationed there, -the head quarters of the Prince of Condé being established in the city. -We passed an hour at an inn, which was nearly filled by part of this -corps, and were compelled to witness the distress and disappointment, -excited by intelligence just then received of the state of affairs in -the Low Countries. - -A small park of artillery was kept on the southern side of Rastadt, -where there is a handsome stone bridge over the river Murg, that falls -into the Rhine, at the distance of a league from the city. Soon after, -the road passes by the groves of the _Favorita_, a summer palace built -by a dowager Margravine. We now drew nearer to the mountains of the -Bergstrasse, which had disappeared near Schwetzingen, and had risen -again partially through the morning mists, soon after our quitting -Carlsruhe. They are here of more awful height, and abrupt steepness -than in the neighbourhood of Manheim, and, on their pointed brows, are -frequently the ruins of castles, placed sometimes where it seems as if -no human foot could climb. The nearer we approached these mountains the -more we had occasion to admire the various tints of their granites. -Sometimes the precipices were of a faint pink, then of a deep red, a -dull purple, or a blush approaching to lilac, and sometimes gleams -of a pale yellow mingled with the low shrubs, that grew upon their -sides. The day was cloudless and bright, and we were too near these -heights to be deceived by the illusions of aërial colouring; the real -hues of their features were as beautiful, as their magnitude was -sublime. The plains, that extend along their feet to the Rhine, are -richly cultivated with corn, and, beyond the river, others, which -appear to be equally fruitful, spread towards the mountains of Alsace, -a corresponding chain with the Bergstrasse, vast and now blue with -distance. - -The manners of the people from Manheim downwards, are more civilized -than in the upper parts of Germany; an improvement, which may with -great probability be imputed to the superior fruitfulness of the -country, that amends their condition, and with it the social qualities. -The farms are more numerous, the labourers less dejected, and the -women, who still work barefooted in the fields, have somewhat of a -ruddy brown in their complexion, instead of the sallowness, that -renders the ferocious, or sullen air of the others more striking. -They are also better dressed; for, though they retain the slouched -woollen hat, they have caps; and towards the borders of Switzerland -their appearance becomes picturesque. Here they frequently wear a blue -petticoat with a cherry-coloured boddice, full white sleeves fastened -above the elbow, and a muslin handkerchief thrown gracefully round the -neck in a sort of roll; the hair sometimes platted round the head, and -held on the crown with a large bodkin. On holidays, the girls have -often a flat straw hat, with bows of ribband hanging behind. Higher up, -the women wear their long black hair platted, but falling in a queue -down the back. - -The cottages are also somewhat better, and the sides entirely covered -with vines, on which, in the beginning of July, were grapes bigger -than capers, and in immense quantities. Sometimes Turkey corn is put -to dry under the projections of the first floor, and the gardens are -ornamented with a short alley of hops. Meat is however bad and scarce; -the appearance so disgusting before it is dressed, that those, who can -accommodate their palates to the cooking, must endeavour to forget what -they have seen. Butter is still more scarce, and the little cheese -that appears, is only a new white curd, made up in rolls, scarcely -bigger than an egg. A sort of beer is here made for servants, the -taste of which affords no symptom of either malt or hops; it is often -nearly white, and appears to have been brewed but a few hours; what is -somewhat browner is bottled, and sold at about threepence a quart. - -Our road, this day, was seldom more than two leagues distant from the -Rhine, and we expected to have heard the fire, which the Austrian and -French posts, who have their batteries on the two banks of the river, -frequently exchange with each other. The tranquillity was, however, -as sound as in any other country, and nothing but the continuance -of patroles and convoys reminded us of our nearness to the war. The -peasants were as leisurely cutting their harvest, and all the other -business of rural life was proceeding as uninterruptedly, as if there -was no possibility of an attack. Yet we afterwards learned, that the -French had, very early on the morning of this day, ineffectually -attempted the passage of the Rhine, about fifteen miles higher up; and -the firing had been distinctly heard at a little village where we dined. - -One road, as short as this, lies immediately upon the margin of the -river; and, as we were assured that none but military parties were -fired at, we wished to pass it, for the purpose of observing the -ingenious methods, by which a country so circumstanced is defended; -but our postillion, who dreaded, that he might be pressed by the -Austrians, for the intrusion, refused to venture upon it, and, instead -of proceeding to Kehl, which is directly opposite to Strasbourg, we -took the road for Offenburg, about three leagues from the Rhine. - -The country through which our route now lay, better as it is than more -northern parts, has suffered some positive injuries by the war. Before -this, all the little towns, from Carlsruhe downwards, maintained some -commerce with France, on their own account, and supplied carriage -for that of others. In return for provisions and coarse commodities -for manufacture, carried to Strasbourg, they received the silks and -woollens of France, to be dispersed at Franckfort, or Manheim. The -intercourse between the two countries was so frequent, that nearly -all the tradesmen, and many of the labouring persons in this part of -Germany speak a little French. The landlord of the house, where -we dined, assured us that, though his village was so small, he had -sufficient business before the war; now he was upon the point of -removing to Offenburg, being unable to pay his rent, during the -interruption of travelling. - -A little before sun-set, we came to Appenweyer, one of these towns, -from the entrance of which the spires of Strasbourg were so plainly -visible that we could see the fanes glittering against the light, and -even the forms of the fortifications near the water could be traced. -In the midst of the straggling town of Appenweyer the loud sounds -of martial music and then the appearance of troops, entering at the -opposite end, surprised us. This was the advanced guard of several -Austrian regiments, on their march to re-inforce the allied army in the -Low Countries. Our postillion had drawn up, to surrender as much of -the road as possible to them, but their march was so irregular, that -they frequently thronged round the carriage; affording us sufficient -opportunity to observe how far their air corresponded with what has -been so often said of the Austrian soldiery. - -Except as to their dress and arms, their appearance is not military, -according to any notion, which an Englishman is likely to have -formed; that is, there is nothing of activity, nothing of spirit, of -cheerfulness, of the correctness of discipline, or of the eagerness of -the youthful in it. There is much of ferocity, much of timid cruelty, -of sullenness, indolence and awkwardness. They dress up their faces -with mustachios, and seem extremely desirous to impress terror. How far -this may be effectual against other troops we cannot know; but they -certainly are, by their ferocious manners, and by the traits, which a -nearer view of them discloses, very terrible to the peaceful traveller. -Though now immediately under the eyes of their officers they could -scarcely refrain from petty insults, and from wishfully laying their -hands upon our baggage. - -About a thousand men passed in two divisions, which had commenced their -march a few hours before, for the purpose of avoiding the heat of the -day. As we proceeded, the trodden corn in the fields shewed where they -had rested. - -It was night before we reached Offenburg, where we were compelled to -lodge at a wretched inn called the Post-house, the master of the other -having that day removed to admit a new tenant; but the condition of the -lodging was of little importance, for, all night, the heavy trampling -of feet along the road below prevented sleep, and with the first dawn -the sound of martial music drew us to the windows. It seemed like a -dream, when the Austrian bands played _ça ira_, with double drums, and -cymbals thrown almost up to our casements, louder than any we had -ever heard before. This was the main body of the army, of which we had -met the advanced party. Each regiment was followed by a long train of -baggage carriages, of various and curious descriptions, some of the -cabriolets having a woman nearly in man's apparel in the front, and -behind, a large basket higher than the carriage, filled with hay. This -"tide of human existence" continued to pass for several hours. But the -whole army did not consist of more than three regiments of infantry, -among which were those of D'Arcy, and Pellegrini, and one of horse; -for each of the Austrian regiments of foot contains, when complete, -two thousand three hundred men. They had with them a small train of -artillery, and were to proceed to the Low Countries as quick as they -could march; but, so uniform are the expedients of the councils of -Vienna, that the opportunity of carrying these troops down the Rhine -in barges from Phillipsburg, where it was practicable, was not adopted, -though this method would have saved two weeks out of three, and have -landed the army unfatigued at its post. - -All their regimentals were white, faced either with light blue, or -pompadour, and seemed unsuitably delicate for figures so large and -heavy. The cavalry were loaded with many articles of baggage, but their -horses appeared to be of the strongest and most serviceable kind. This -was a grand military show, which it was impossible to see without many -reflections on human nature and human misery. - -Offenburg is a small town, in the Margraviate of Baden Baden, -pleasantly seated at the feet of the Bergstrasse, which the road again -approaches so near as to be somewhat obstructed by its acclivities. -Our way lay along the base of these steeps, during the whole day; -and as we drew nearer to Switzerland, their height became still more -stupendous, and the mountains of Alsace seemed advancing to meet them -in the long perspective; the plains between, through which the Rhine -gleamed in long sweeps, appeared to be entirely covered with corn, and -in the nearer scene joyous groups were loading the waggons with the -harvest. An harvest of another kind was ripening among the lower rocks -of the Bergstrasse, where the light green of the vines enlivened every -cliff, and sometimes overspread the ruinous walls of what had once been -fortresses. - -We passed many villages, shaded with noble trees, which had more -appearance of comfort than any we had seen, and which were enviable for -the pleasantness of their situation; their spacious street generally -opening to the grandeur of the mountain vista, that extended to the -south. In these landscapes the peasant girl, in the simple dress of -the country, and balancing on her large straw hat an harvest keg, was a -very picturesque figure. - -It was evening when we came within view of Friburg, the last city -of Germany on the borders of Switzerland, and found ourselves among -mountains, which partook of the immensity and sublimity of those of -that enchanting country. But what was our emotion, when, from an -eminence, we discovered the pointed summits of what we believed to be -the Swiss mountains themselves, a multitudinous assemblage rolled in -the far-distant prospect! This glimpse of a country of all others in -Europe the most astonishing and grand, awakened a thousand interesting -recollections and delightful expectations; while we watched with regret -even this partial vision vanishing from our eyes as we descended -towards Friburg. The mountains, that encompass this city, have so much -the character of the great, that we immediately recollect the line -of separation between Germany and Switzerland to be merely artificial, -not marked even by a river. Yet while we yield to the awful pleasure -which this eternal vastness inspires, we feel the insignificance of -our temporary nature, and, seeming more than ever conscious by what -a slender system our existence is upheld, somewhat of dejection and -anxiety mingle with our admiration. - - -END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -The book cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in -the public domain. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY MADE IN THE SUMMER OF -1794, THROUGH HOLLAND AND THE WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY, WITH A RETURN -DOWN THE RHINE*** - - -******* This file should be named 62795-0.txt or 62795-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/2/7/9/62795 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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