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diff --git a/old/62795-h/62795-h.htm b/old/62795-h/62795-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 7751582..0000000 --- a/old/62795-h/62795-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11621 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> -<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, by Ann Ward Radcliffe</title> -<style type="text/css"> - body {background:#fdfdfd; - color:black; - font-size: large; - margin-top:0px; - margin-left:15%; - margin-right:15%; - text-align:justify; } - h1 {text-align: center; margin-top: 3em; } - h2 {text-align: center; margin-top: 2em; } - h3 {text-align: center; margin-top: 1em; } - hr.tiny { width: 10%; - text-align: center; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; } - hr { width: 100%; } - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 3px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - table {font-size: large; margin: 0 auto } - p {text-indent: 3%; } - p.noindent { text-indent: 0%; } - .center { text-align: center; } - img { border: 0; } - #coverpage { border: 1px solid black; } - .image-center { text-align: center; margin: 2em auto; } - ins { text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} - .poem { margin-left: 2em; } - .right { text-align: right; } - .small { font-size: 75%; } - .smallcaps { font-variant: small-caps; } - .space-above { margin-top: 3em; } - - - h1.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 190%; - margin-top: 0em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h2.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 135%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - page-break-before: avoid; - line-height: 1; } - h3.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 110%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h4.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 100%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - hr.pgx { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } -</style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pgx" title="">The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through -Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. I (of 2), -by Ann Ward Radcliffe</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. I (of 2)</p> -<p> To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland</p> -<p>Author: Ann Ward Radcliffe</p> -<p>Release Date: July 31, 2020 [eBook #62795]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY MADE IN THE SUMMER OF 1794, THROUGH HOLLAND AND THE WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY, WITH A RETURN DOWN THE RHINE, VOL. I (OF 2)***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4 class="pgx" title="">E-text prepared by Delphine Lettau<br /> - and the Distributed Proofreaders Canada team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdpcanada.net">http://www.pgdpcanada.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - https://archive.org</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See<br /> - https://archive.org/details/journeymadeinsum01radcuoft<br /> - and<br /> - https://archive.org/details/journeymadeinsum02radcuoft<br /> - <br /> - Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work.<br /> - <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/64218/64218-h/64218-h.htm">Volume II</a>: see http://www.gutenberg.org/files/64218/64218-h/64218-h.htm<br /> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" width="411" height="600" alt="Book cover" /> -</div> -<hr class="full" /> - -<h1>A JOURNEY MADE<br /> -<br /> -IN THE SUMMER OF 1794,</h1> -<div class="center"> -<p class="noindent"><span class="small">THROUGH</span><br /> -<br /> -<strong>HOLLAND</strong><br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">AND THE</span><br /> -<br /> -<strong>WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY,</strong><br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">WITH A</span><br /> -<br /> -RETURN DOWN THE RHINE:<br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">TO WHICH ARE ADDED</span><br /> -<br /> -OBSERVATIONS DURING A TOUR<br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">TO</span><br /> -<br /> -<strong>THE LAKES</strong><br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">OF</span><br /> -<br /> -LANCASHIRE, WESTMORELAND, <span class="smallcaps">and</span> CUMBERLAND.<br /> -<br /> -IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /> -<br /> -VOL. I.<br /> -<br /> -SECOND EDITION.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">BY</span> -</p> -</div> - -<h2>ANN RADCLIFFE.</h2> -<div class="center"> -<p class="noindent"><i>LONDON</i>: -PRINTED FOR G. G. AND J. ROBINSON, PATERNOSTER-ROW.<br /> -MDCCXCV. -</p> -</div> -<hr class="tiny space-above" /> - -<div class="center"> -<p class="noindent"> -<a href="#HELVOETSLUYS">HELVOETSLUYS.</a><br /> -<a href="#X-ROTTERDAM">ROTTERDAM.</a><br /> -<a href="#DELFT">DELFT.</a><br /> -<a href="#THE_HAGUE">THE HAGUE.</a><br /> -<a href="#LEYDEN">LEYDEN.</a><br /> -<a href="#HAERLEM">HAERLEM.</a><br /> -<a href="#AMSTERDAM">AMSTERDAM.</a><br /> -<a href="#UTRECHT">UTRECHT.</a><br /> -<a href="#NIMEGUEN">NIMEGUEN.</a><br /> -<a href="#X-CLEVES">CLEVES.</a><br /> -<a href="#XANTEN">XANTEN.</a><br /> -<a href="#RHEINBERG">RHEINBERG.</a><br /> -<a href="#HOOGSTRASS">HOOGSTRASS.</a><br /> -<a href="#NEUSS">NEUSS.</a><br /> -<a href="#COLOGNE">COLOGNE.</a><br /> -<a href="#BONN">BONN.</a><br /> -<a href="#GOODESBERG">GOODESBERG.</a><br /> -<a href="#THE_VALLEY_OF_ANDERNACH">THE VALLEY OF ANDERNACH.</a><br /> -<a href="#X-COBLENTZ">COBLENTZ.</a><br /> -<a href="#MONTABAUR">MONTABAUR.</a><br /> -<a href="#LIMBOURG">LIMBOURG.</a><br /> -<a href="#SELTERS">SELTERS.</a><br /> -<a href="#MENTZ">MENTZ,</a><br /> -<a href="#X-OF_MENTZ_IN_1792_AND_1793">OF MENTZ IN 1792 AND 1793.</a><br /> -<a href="#MENTZ_2">MENTZ.</a><br /> -<a href="#FRANCKFORT">FRANCKFORT.</a><br /> -<a href="#OPPENHEIM">OPPENHEIM.</a><br /> -<a href="#WORMS">WORMS.</a><br /> -<a href="#FRANCKENTHAL">FRANCKENTHAL,</a><br /> -<a href="#OGGERSHEIM">OGGERSHEIM,</a><br /> -<a href="#MANHEIM">MANHEIM.</a><br /> -<a href="#X-SCHWETZINGEN">SCHWETZINGEN.</a><br /> -<a href="#CARLSRUHE">CARLSRUHE.</a> -</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<p>The Author begs leave to observe, in -explanation of the use made of the plural -term in the following pages, that, her journey -having been performed in the company -of her nearest relative and friend, the account -of it has been written so much from -their mutual observation, that there would -be a deception in permitting the book to -appear, without some acknowledgement, -which may distinguish it from works entirely -her own. The title page would, -therefore, have contained the joint names -of her husband and herself, if this mode of -appearing before the Public, besides being -thought by that relative a greater acknowledgement -than was due to his share of the -work, had not seemed liable to the imputation -of a design to attract attention by -extraordinary novelty. It is, however, necessary -to her own satisfaction, that some -notice should be taken of this assistance. -She may, therefore, be permitted to intrude -a few more words, as to this subject, by -saying, that where the œconomical and political -conditions of countries are touched -upon in the following work, the remarks -are less her own than elsewhere.</p> - -<p>With respect to the book itself, it is, of -course, impossible, and would be degrading -if it were not so, to prevent just censure -by apologies; and unjust censure she has -no reason, from her experience, to fear;—but -she will venture to defend a practice -adopted in the following pages, that has -been sometimes blamed for its apparent nationality, -by writers of the most respectable -authority. The references to England, -which frequently occur during the foreign -part of the tour, are made because it has -seemed that one of the best modes of describing -to any class of readers what they -may not know, is by comparing it with -what they do.</p> - -<p class="right">May 20, 1795.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="HELVOETSLUYS" id="HELVOETSLUYS">HELVOETSLUYS.</a></h3> - -<p>About twenty hours after our embarkation, -at Harwich, and six after our -first sight of the low-spread and barren -coast of <i><ins title="modern spelling is Goeree">Goree</ins></i>, we reached this place, -which is seated on one of many inlets, that -carry the waters of the German Ocean -through the southern part of the province -of Holland. <i>Goree</i>, rendered an island by -these encroachments of the sea, is always -the first land expected by the seamen; or -rather they look out for the lofty tower of -its church, which, though several miles -more distant than the shore, is visible when -that cannot be discerned. The entrance of -the water between the land, in a channel -probably three leagues wide, soon after -commences; and Helvoetsluys is then presently -seen, with the masts of vessels rising -above its low houses, amidst green embankments -and pastures, that there begin to -reward the care of excluding the sea.</p> - -<p>The names of Dutch towns are in themselves -expressive of the objects most interesting -to a people, who, for opportunities of -commerce, have increased their original and -natural dangers, by admitting the water in -some parts, while, for their homes and their -lives, they must prevent it from encroaching -upon others. <i>Dam</i>, <i>Sluice</i>, or <i>Dyke</i> occur -in almost all their compounded titles. The -sluice, which gives this town part of its name, -is also its harbour; affording, perhaps, an -outlet to the overflowings of the country -behind, but filled at the entrance to the depth -of more than eighty feet by the sea, with -which it communicates.</p> - -<p>Upon the banks of this sluice, which are -partly artificial, the town is built in one short -street of small houses, inhabited chiefly by -tradesmen and innkeepers. The dockyard -bounds the sluice and the town, communicating -with the former by gates, over which -a small pivot bridge connects the two sides -of the street. Each head of the pier, or harbour, -has been extended beyond the land, for -several yards by pile work, filled with earth -and large stones, over which there is no -pavement, that its condition may be constantly -known. We stepped from the packet -upon one of these, and, walking along the -beams, that pass between the immense piles, -saw how closely the <i>interstices</i> were filled, -and how the earth and stones were again -compacted by a strong kind of basket-work.</p> - -<p>The arrival of a packet is the chief incident -known at Helvoetsluys, and, as ours -entered the harbour about noon, and in fine -weather, perhaps, a fourth part of the inhabitants -were collected as spectators. Their -appearance did not surprise us with all the -novelty, which we had expected from the -first sight of a foreign people. The Dutch -seamen every where retain the national dress; -but the other men of Helvoetsluys differ -from Englishmen in their appearance chiefly -by wearing coarser clothes, and by bringing -their pipes with them into the street. Further -on, several women were collected about -their baskets of herbs, and their dress had -some of the novelty, for which we were -looking; they had hats of the size of a small -chinese umbrella, and almost as gaudily lined -within; close, white jackets, with long flaps; -short, coloured petticoats, in the shape of a -diving bell; yellow slippers, without quarters -at the heel; and caps, that exactly fitted -the head and concealed the hair, but which -were ornamented at the temples by gold -filagree clasps, twirling, like vine tendrils, -over the cheeks of the wearer.</p> - -<p>Our inn was kept by English people, but -the furniture was entirely Dutch. Two -beds, like cribs in a ship, were let into the -wainscot; and we were told, that, in all the -inns on our journey, we should seldom, or -never, be shewn into a room, which had not -a bed.</p> - -<p>Helvoetsluys, it sufficiently appears, is a -very inconsiderable place, as to its size and -inhabitants. But it is not so in naval, or military -estimation. It is distant about ten or -twelve miles from the open sea, yet is nearly -secure from attack on this side, because that -part of the approach, which is deep enough -for large vessels, is commanded by batteries -on shore. It stands in the middle of an immense -bay, large enough to contain all the -navy of Holland, and has a dockyard and -arsenal in the centre of the fortifications. -When we passed through it, six ships of -the line and two frigates were lying in -the dockyard, and two ships of the line and -three frigates, under the command of an -Admiral, in the bay.</p> - -<p>The fortifications, we were assured upon -good military authority, were in such repair, -that not a sod was out of its place, -and are strong enough to be defended by five -thousand men against an hundred thousand, -for five weeks. The sea water rises to a considerable -height in a wide ditch, which surrounds -them. We omitted to copy an inscription, -placed on one of the walls, which -told the date of their completion; but this -was probably about the year 1696, when -the harbour was perfected. Though the -dockyard can be only one of the dependencies -upon that of Rotterdam, the largest ships -of that jurisdiction are preserved here, on account -of the convenient communication between -the port and the sea.</p> - -<p>Near this place may be observed, what -we examined with more leisure upon our -return, the ingenuity, utility and vastness of -the embankments, opposed by the Dutch to -the sea. From Helvoetsluys eastward, for -many miles, the land is preserved from the -sea only by an artificial mound of earth, -against which the water heavily and often -impetuously strives for admission into the -sheltered plains below. The sea, at high -water, is so much above the level of the -ground, from which it is thus boldly separated, -that one who stands on the land side -of the embankment hears the water foaming, -as if over his head. Yet the mound -itself, which has stood for two centuries, at -least, without repair, though with many renewals -of the means, that protect it, is still -unhurt and undiminished, and may yet see -generations of those, whom it defends, rising -and passing away, on one side, like the fluctuations -of the tides, which assail and retire -from it, on the other.</p> - -<p>It is better, however, to describe than -to praise. The mound, which appears to -be throughout of the same height, as to the -sea, is sometimes more and sometimes less -raised above the fields; for, where the natural -level of the land assists in resistance to -the water, the Hollanders have, of course, -availed themselves of it, to exert the less of -their art and their labour. It is, perhaps, -for the most part, thirty feet above the adjoining -land. The width at top is enough to -permit the passage of two carriages, and -there is a sort of imperfect road along it. -In its descent, the breadth increases so much, -that it is not very difficult to walk down -either side. We could not measure it, and -may therefore be excused for relating how -its size may be guessed.</p> - -<p>On the land side, it is said to be strengthened -by stone and timber, which we did not -see, but which may be there, covered by -earth and grass. Towards the sea, somewhat -above and considerably below high-water -mark, a strong matting of flags prevents the -surge from carrying away the surface of the -mound; and this is the defence which has -so long preserved it. The matting is held to -the shore by bandages of twisted flags, running -horizontally, at the distance of three -or four yards from each other, and staked -to the ground by strong wooden pins. As -this matting is worn by every tide, a survey -of it is frequently made, and many parts -appear to have been just repaired. Further -in the sea, it is held down by stones; above, -there are posts at every forty yards, which -are numbered, that the spot may be exactly -described where repairs are necessary. The -impost for the maintenance of these banks -amounts to nearly as much as the land-tax; -and, as the land could not be possessed without -it, this tax has the valuable character of -being occasioned by no mismanagement, and -of producing no discontent.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> -<h3><a name="X-ROTTERDAM" id="X-ROTTERDAM">ROTTERDAM.</a></h3> - -<p>From Helvoetsluys to this place the -usual way is by the Brill and Maesland sluice, -with several changes of carriages and boats; -but, on the days of the arrival of mails, a -Rotterdam skipper, whose vessel has been -left at a hamlet on the Maese, takes his party -in carriages across the island of Voorn, on -which Helvoetsluys stands, to his schuyt, -and from thence by the Maese to Rotterdam. -We paid two ducats, or about seventeen -shillings, for the whole, and found this -the highest price given for travelling in Holland. -Our carriage was a sort of small coach -of the fashion, exhibited in paintings of the -sixteenth century, but open before, and so -ill-furnished with springs, that the Dutch -name, "a covered waggon," was not an improper -description of it. A bad road led us -through some meadows of meagre grass, and -through fields in which corn was higher, -though thinner, than in England. The -prospect was over an entire level to the horizon, -except that the spires of distant villages, -some small clusters of trees, and now -and then a wind-mill, varied it. As we approached -any of these clusters, we found -usually a neat farm-house sheltered within, -and included, together with its garden and -orchard, in a perfect green fence: the fields -were elsewhere separated from each other -and from the road, neither by hedges or -walls, but by deep ditches filled with water, -over which are laid small bridges, that may -be opened in the middle by a sort of trap-door, -raised and locked to a post, to prevent -the intrusion of strangers.</p> - -<p>On the way we passed now and then a -waggon filled with large brass jugs, bright -as new gold. In these vessels, which have -short narrow necks, covered with a wooden -stopper, milk is brought from the field -throughout Holland. It is always carried -to the towns in light waggons, or carts, -drawn frequently by horses as sleek and -well-conditioned as those in our best coaches.</p> - -<p>The hamlet, at which we were to embark, -was busied in celebrating some holiday. At -the only cottage, that had a sign, we applied -for refreshment, partly for the purpose of -seeing its inside, by which we were not a -little gratified. Thirty or forty peasants were -seated upon benches, about a circle, in which -children were dancing to the scraping of a -French fiddler. The women wore their -large hats, set up in the air like a spread -fan, and lined with damask, or flowered -linen. Children of seven years old, as well -as women of seventy, were in this preposterous -disguise. All had necklaces, ear-rings, -and ornamental clasps for the temples, of -solid gold: some wore large black patches -of the size of a shilling. The old woman of -the house had a valuable necklace and head-dress. -Among the group were many of -Teniers' beauties; and over the countenances -of the whole assemblage was an air of modesty, -decorum, and tranquillity. The children -left their dancing, to see us; and we -had almost lost our tide to Rotterdam, by -staying to see them.</p> - -<p>Our sail up the Maese was very delightful. -The river flows here with great dignity, -and is animated with vessels of all countries -passing to and from Rotterdam. The -huge Archangelman, the lighter American, -the smart, swift Englishman, and the bulky -Dutchman, exhibit a various scene of shipping, -upon a noble surface of water, winding -between green pastures and rich villages, -spread along the low shores, where pointed -roofs, trees, and masts of fishing-boats, are -seen mingled in striking confusion. Small -trading schuyts, as stout and as round as -their masters, glided by us, with crews reposing -under their deep orange sails, and frequently -exchanging some salute with our -captain. On our left, we passed the little -town of Flaarding, celebrated for its share -of the herring-fishery on our coasts; and -Schiedam, a larger port, where what is called -the Rotterdam geneva is made, and where -several English vessels were visible in the -chief street of the place. After a sail of -two hours we distinguished Rotterdam, surrounded -by more wood than had yet appeared, -and overtopped by the heavy round -tower of the great church of St. Lawrence. -The flatness of its situation did not allow us -here to judge of its extent; but we soon -perceived the grandeur of an ample city, -extending along the north shore of the Maese, -that, now spreading into a noble bay, along -the margin of which Rotterdam rises, sweeps -towards the south-east.</p> - -<p>The part of the city first seen, from the -river, is said to be among the finest in Europe -for magnificence and convenience of -situation. It is called the <i>Boom Quay</i>, <i>i. e.</i> -the quay with trees, having rows of lofty -elms upon the broad terrace, that supports -many noble houses, but which is called a -quay, because ships of considerable burthen -may moor against it, and deliver their cargoes. -The merchants accordingly, who have -residences here, have their warehouses adjoining -their houses, and frequently build -them in the form of domestic offices. The -quay is said to be a mile in length, but appears -to be somewhat less. There are houses -upon it, as handsome as any in the squares -of London.</p> - -<p>At the top of the <i>Boom Quay</i> is one of -the <i>Heads</i>, or entrances by water into the -city, through which the greater part of its -numerous canals receive their supplies. On -the approach to it, the view further up the -Maese detains attention to the bank of this -noble river. A vast building, erected for -the Admiralty, is made, by a bend of the -Maese, almost to face you; and the interval, -of more than a quarter of a mile, is -filled by a line of houses, that open directly, -and without a terrace, upon the water. -The fronts of these are in another street; -but they all exhibit, even on this side, what -is the distinction of Dutch houses and towns, -a nicety and a perfectness of preservation, -which give them an air of gaiety without, and -present you with an idea of comfort within. -What in England would be thought a symptom -of extraordinary wealth, or extravagance, -is here universal. The outside of -every house, however old or humble, is as -clean as water and paint can make it. The -window-shutters are usually coloured green; -and whatever wood appears, whether in cornices -or worse ornaments, is so frequently -cleaned, as well as painted, that it has always -the gloss of newness. Grotesque ornaments -are sometimes by these means rendered -conspicuous; and a street acquires the -air of a town in a toyshop; but in general -there is not in this respect such a want of -taste as can much diminish the value of their -care.</p> - -<p>Our skipper reached his birth, which is -constantly in the same place, soon after passing -the <i>Head</i>, and entering by a canal into -one of the principal streets of the city. Between -the broad terraces of this street, which -are edged with thick elms, the innumerable -masts of Dutch schuyts, with gay pendants -and gilded tops; the hulls of larger vessels -from all parts of the world; the white drawbridges, -covered with passengers; the boats, -continually moving, without noise or apparent -difficulty; all this did somewhat surprise -us, who had supposed that a city so -familiarly known, and yet so little mentioned -as Rotterdam, could have nothing so remarkable -as its wealth and trade.</p> - -<p>In our way from the boat to the inn, other -fine canals opened upon us on each side, and -we looked at them till we had lost the man, -whom we should have followed with our -baggage. We had no fear that it would be -stolen, knowing the infrequency of robberies -in Holland; and the first person, of -whom we could enquire our way in broken -Dutch, acknowledged his country people by -answering in very good English. There are -many hundreds of British residents in this -place, and our language and commerce have -greatly the sway here over those of all other -foreign nations. The Dutch inscriptions -over warehouses and shops have frequently -English translations underneath them. Of -large vessels, there are nearly as many -English as Dutch in the harbour; and, if -you speak to any Dutchman in the street, -it is more probable that he can answer in -English than in French. On a Sunday, the -English fill two churches, one of which -we attended on our return. It is an oblong -brick building, permitted by the States -to be within the jurisdiction of the Bishop of -London, Parliament having given 2500l. towards -its completion in the beginning of the -present century. There are also many Protestant -dissenters here, who are said to have -their offices of worship performed with the -ability, simplicity, and zeal, which are usually -to be observed in the devotions of that -class of Christians.</p> - -<p>Rotterdam is the second city for size, and -perhaps the first for beauty, in the United -Provinces; yet, when we walked through -it the next day, and expected to find the -magnificence of the approach equalled in its -interior, we were compelled to withdraw a -little of the premature admiration, that had -begun to extend to the whole place. The -street, where there is most trade and the -greatest passage, the <i>Hoogstraat</i>, is little -wider, though it is abundantly cleaner, than -a London lane. The Stadthouse is in this -street, and is an old brick building, with a -peaked roof, not entirely free from fantastic -ornament. It has been built too early to -have the advantages of modern elegance, -and too late for the sanction of ancient dignity. -The market-place has only one wide -access; and the communication between the -street, from the principal <i>Head</i>, and that in -which the Exchange is placed, is partly -through a very narrow, though a short passage. -The Exchange itself is a plain stone -building, well designed for its purpose, and -completed about fifty years ago. The happiest -circumstance relating to it is, that the -merchants are numerous enough to fill the -colonnades on the four sides of its interior. -Commerce, which cannot now be long discouraged -in any part of Europe, because -without it the interest of public debts cannot -be paid, is the permanent defender of -freedom and knowledge against military -glory and politics.</p> - -<p>From the Exchange there is an excellent -walk to the market-place, where the well-known -statue of <span class="smallcaps">Erasmus</span> is raised. Being -represented in his doctor's dress, the -figure can display little of the artist's skill; -but the countenance has strong lines, and a -physiognomist would not deny them to be -expressive of the discernment and shrewdness -of the original.</p> - -<p>The market-place is really a large bridge, -for a canal passes under it; but its size, and -the easiness of ascent from the sides, prevent -this from being immediately observed. Some -of the surrounding houses have their dates -marked upon glazed tiles. They were built -during the long war, that rescued the provinces -from the Spanish dominion; a time -when it might be supposed that nothing -would have been attended to, except the -business of providing daily food, and the -duty of resisting the enemy; but in which -the Dutch enlarged and beautified their -cities, prepared their country to become a -medium of commerce, and began nearly all -the measures, which have led to their present -extensive prosperity.</p> - -<p>Near this place is the great church of St. -<span class="smallcaps">Lawrence</span>, which we entered, but did not -find to be remarkable, except for a magnificent -brass balustrade that crosses it at the -upper end. A profusion of <i>achievements</i>, -which cover the walls almost to the top, -contribute to its solemnity. In addition to -the arms of the deceased, they contain the -dates of their birth and death, and are used -instead of inscriptions, though no names are -expressed upon them. Under the pulpit was -an hour-glass, which limits the discourse of -the preacher: on one side a wand, having -at the end a velvet bag and a small bell; -this is carried about, during an interval in -the service, and every body puts something -into it for the poor. The old beadle, who -shewed us the church, laid his hands upon -us with pleasure, when he heard that we -were English, and Protestants. There are -three ministers to this church, with salaries -of nearly two hundred pounds sterling -each.</p> - -<p>We went to our inn through the <i>Hoogstraat</i>, -which was filled with people and carriages, -but has no raised pavement to separate -the one from the other. In all the -towns which we saw, the footpath is distinguished -from the road only by being paved -with a sort of light coloured brick. The -Dutch shops are in the shape, which those -of London are described to have had fifty -years since, with small high windows, and -blocks between them and the street. Silversmiths -expose their goods in small glass -cupboards upon the blocks, and nearly all -the trades make upon them what little shew -is customary. Almost every tenth house -displays the inscription <i>Tabak te koop</i>, "Tobacco -to be sold." This street, having no -canal, is occupied entirely by retail traders. -We bought in it the Antwerp Gazette for -two doights, or one farthing; strawberries, -large and well coloured, at a lower price -than they could be had six weeks later in -England, but without flavour; and went -into several booksellers' shops, expecting to -have found something in Latin, or French, -but could see only Dutch books. In another -street a bookseller had several English volumes, -and there are no doubt well filled -shops, but not so numerous as that we could -find any.</p> - -<p>Over the canals, that flow through almost -every street of Rotterdam, are great -numbers of large drawbridges, which contribute -much to the neat and gay appearance -of the city; but, when these are raised, the -obstruction to the passage occasions crowds -on each side; and, therefore, in some of the -most frequented parts, the bridges are entire -and permanent, except for the breadth of -three feet in the centre, where there is a -plank, which opens upon hinges almost as -easily as the lid of a trunk. Through this -opening the masts of the small Dutch schuyts -are easily conducted, but ships can pass -only where there are drawbridges. The -number of the former is immense; for, -throughout the provinces, every village, if -it is near a canal, has several schuyts, which -carry away the superfluous produce of the -country, and return with the manufactures, -or stores of the towns. But neither their -number, nor their neatness, is so remarkable -as the ease and stillness, with which they -traverse the city; and indeed ease and stillness -are much the characteristics of all the -efforts of Dutch industry. The noise and -agitation, usual whenever many persons are -employed together in other countries, are -unknown here. Ships are brought to their -moorings, schuyts pass each other in crowded -canals, heavy burthens are raised and -cargoes removed, almost without a word, -that can be heard at twenty yards distance.</p> - -<p>Another circumstance, rendering Dutch -towns freer from noise than others of equal -traffic, is the little use which is made of -waggons and carts, even where some sort -of land carriage must be employed. Heavy -commodities are usually carried about the -streets on sledges; and almost the greatest -noise is, when the driver of one of these, -after having delivered his load, meaning to -render himself a prodigy of frolicsomeness, -stands upon the hinder edges of his sledge, -and then, preventing himself from falling -backward by his hold of the reins, is drawn -rapidly through the admiring crowd.</p> - -<p>We were long enough at Rotterdam, -during three visits, to see how well it is -provided with avenues towards the country -and along the banks of the Maese. To -one of these the way is over the two <i>Heads</i>, -or chief canals, each of which you cross -for a doight, or half a farthing, in boats -that are continually passing between the two -sides. This little voyage saves a walk of -about three hundred yards to the nearest -bridge. The boats will hold twenty or -thirty persons, and the profit of them is -very considerable to the City government, -which applies the money to public purposes. -Each boat is worked by one man, -who pulls it over by a rope in about two -minutes.</p> - -<p>Many of the inhabitants have what they -call garden-houses upon these walks, and -upon a semi-circular road, which passes on -the land side of the city; but the most -wealthy have seats at greater distances, -where they can be surrounded with grounds, -and make the display of independent residences.</p> - -<p>Upon the whole, Rotterdam has from -its situation many conveniences and delights, -and from its structure some magnificence, -together with a general neatness; but is, for -the most part, deficient in elegance, and its -beauties have too much the air of prettinesses. -The canals are indisputably fine, -crowned with lofty terraces, and deep -enough to carry large vessels into the centre -of the city.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="DELFT" id="DELFT">DELFT.</a></h3> - -<p>Between Rotterdam and this place -we commenced our travelling in trechtschuyts, -which are too well known to need -description. The fare is at the rate of about -a penny per mile, and a trifle more hires the -<i>roof</i>, which is a small separate chamber, nearest -to the stern of the vessel, lighted by windows -on each side. In engaging this, you -have an instance of the accuracy of the -Dutch in their minutest transactions; a formal -printed receipt, or ticket, is given for -the few pence which it costs, by a commissary, -who has no other business than to regulate -the affairs of the trechtschuyts at his -gate of the city. We could never learn -what proportion of the fare is paid as a tax -to the State, but it is said to be a considerable -part; and not only these schuyts, but -the ferries, the post waggons, and the pilotage -throughout the United States, are made -contributory to the public funds.</p> - -<p>The punctuality of the departure and -arrival of the trechtschuyts is well known, -and justifies the Dutch method of reckoning -distances, which is by hours, and not by -leagues or miles. The canals being generally -full to the brim, the top of the vessel is -above the level of the adjoining country, -and the view over it is of course extensive; -but the houses and gardens, which are best -worth seeing, are almost always upon the -banks of the canal. We passed several such -in the way to Delft, towards which the Rotterdam -merchants have their favourite seats; -but Dutch gardens are rather to be noticed -by an Englishman as curiosities, than as -luxuries. It is not only by the known ill -taste of their ornaments, but by the effects -of climate and the soil, that gardens are -deprived of value, in a country, where the -moisture is so disproportioned to the heat, -that the verdure, though bright, has no -fragrance, and the fruit, at its utmost size, -scarcely any flavour.</p> - -<p>A passage of two hours brought us to -Delft, which we had expected to find a small -and ill-inhabited place, knowing it to be not -now occupied by any considerable trade. -Our inn, we supposed, must be within a -few minutes walk. We proceeded, however, -through one street for half a mile, and, -after some turnings, did not reach our inn, -though we were led by the nearest way, in -less than twenty minutes. During all this -time we were upon the terraces of clear -canals, amongst excellent houses, with a -small intermixture of shops and some public -buildings. The mingled admiration and -weariness, which we felt here, for the first -time, have been, however, often repeated; -for if there is a necessity for saying what -is the next distinction of Dutch towns, after -their neatness, their size must be insisted -upon. There are Dutch villages, scarcely -marked in a map, which exceed in size -some of the county towns in England. -<i>Maesland Sluice</i>, a place opposite to the -Brill, is one. And here is Delft, a place -with scarcely any other trade than consists in -the circulation of commodities from Rotterdam -through some neighbouring villages; -which is not the seat of any considerable -part of the national government, and is inferior, -in point of situation, to all the surrounding -towns. Delft, thus undistinguished, -fills a large circumference, with streets so -intricately thick, that we never went from -our inn without losing our way.</p> - -<p>The <i>Doolen</i>, one of the best inns in Holland, -is a large building of the sixteenth -century, raised by the Spaniards, and first -intended to be a convent; but, having been -used by the burghers of Delft for public -purposes, during the struggle of the Province -against Spain, it is now venerable as the -scene of their councils and preparations. In -the suite of large apartments, which were -used by them, some of the city business is still -transacted, and in these strangers are never -entertained. Behind, is a bowling-green, in -which the burghers to this day perform -their military exercises; they were so employed -when we came in; and it was pleasing -to consider, that their inferiority to their -ancestors, in point of martial appearance, -was the result of the long internal peace secured -by the exertions of the latter.</p> - -<p>Over two arches of the building is the -date of its erection, 1565, the year in which -the destruction of all families, professing the -Protestant religion either in France or Spain, -is supposed to have been agreed upon at -Bayonne between the sovereigns of the two -countries, and one year preceding the first -measures of confederate resistance in the -Low Countries, which that and other efforts -of persecution produced. One of these -arches communicates with the rooms so long -used by the burghers; and our hostess, an -intelligent woman, accompanied us through -them. The first is ornamented with three -large pictures, representing several of the -early burghers of the Commonwealth, either -in arms or council. A portrait of <span class="smallcaps">Barneveldt</span> -is marked with the date and the painter's -name, "<span class="smallcaps">Michael Miereveld</span> -<i>delineavit ac perfunctoriè pinxit, 1617</i>," -one year before the flagitious arrest of -<span class="smallcaps">Barneveldt</span>, in defiance of the constitution -of the provinces, by <span class="smallcaps">Maurice</span> of -<span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>. A piece, exhibiting some of the -burghers in arms, men of an handsome and -heroic appearance, is also dated, by having -1648 painted on a drum; that, which shews -them in council, has a portrait of <span class="smallcaps">Grotius</span>, -painted when he was seventeen. His face -is the seventh from the right hand in the -second row.</p> - -<p>Beyond this room are others containing -several score of small cupboards, on the -doors of each of which are two or three -blazonries of arms. Here are deposited some -parts of the dress and arms of an association -of Arquesbusiers, usual in all the Dutch -towns; the members of which society assemble -annually in October, to shoot at a target -placed in a pavilion of the old convent garden. -The marksman takes his aim from the -farthest room; and between him and the -mark are two walls, perforated two feet and -a half in length, and eight inches in breadth, -to permit the passage of the shot. A man -stands in the pavilion, to tell where the ball -has struck; and every marksman, before he -shoots, rings a bell, to warn this person out -of the way. He that first hits a white spot -in the target, has his liquor, for the ensuing -year, free of excise duty; but, to render -this more difficult, a stork is suspended by -the legs from a string, which, passing down -the whole length of the target, is kept in -continual motion by the agitation of the -bird. It did not appear whether the stork -has any other share in this ancient ceremony, -which is represented in prints of considerable -date. It is held near the ground, out -of the way of the shot, and is certainly not -intended to be hurt, for the Dutch have no -taste for cruelty in their amusements. The -stork, it is also known, is esteemed by them -a sort of tutelary bird; as it once was in -Rome, where <span class="smallcaps">Asellus Sempronius Rufus</span>, -who first had them served at an entertainment, -is said to have lost the Prætorship -for his sacrilegious gluttony. In -these trivial enquiries we passed our first -evening at Delft.</p> - -<p>Early the next morning, a battalion of regular -troops was reviewed upon a small plain -within the walls of the town. The uniform -is blue and red, in which the Dutch officers -have not quite the smart appearance of ours. -One of these, who gave the word to a company, -was a boy, certainly not more than fifteen, -whose shrill voice was ludicrously heard -between the earnest shouts of the others. -The firing was very exact, which is all that -we can tell of the qualities of a review.</p> - -<p>Delft was a place of early importance in -the United Provinces, being one of the six -original cities, that sent Deputies to the States -of the province; a privilege, which, at the -instance of their glorious <span class="smallcaps">William</span> the -First of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>, was afterwards properly -extended to twelve others, including Rotterdam -and the Brill. Yet it is little celebrated -for military events, being unfortified, and -having probably always obeyed the fortune -of the neighbouring places. The circumstance -which gives it a melancholy place in -history, is the murder of the wife and -beneficent Prince who founded the republic. His -palace, a plain brick building, is still in good -repair, where strangers are always shewn the -staircase on which he fell, and the holes -made in the wall by the shot that killed -him. The old man, who keeps the house, -told the story with as much agitation and -interest as if it had happened yesterday. -"The Prince and Princess came out of that -chamber—there stood the Prince, here stood -the murderer; when the Prince stepped here -to speak to him about the passport, the villain -fired, and the Prince fell all along here -and died. Yes, so it was—there are the -holes the balls made." Over one of these, -which is large enough to admit two fingers, -is this inscription:</p> - -<p>"<i>Hier onder staen de Teykenen der Kooglen -daar meede Prins Willem van Orange is -doorschootten op</i> 10 July, A. 1584."</p> - -<p>To this detestable action the assassin acknowledged -himself to have been instigated -by the proclamation of Philip the Second, -offering a reward for its perpetration. The -Princess, who had the wretchedness to witness -it, had lost her father and her former -husband in the massacre of St. Bartholomew -in France, which, though contrived by Catherine -and Charles the Ninth of that country, -is believed to have been the consequence -of their interview at Bayonne, with -Isabella, the wife of the same Philip.</p> - -<p>The melancholy excited on this spot is -continued by passing from it to the tomb of -<span class="smallcaps">William</span>, in the great church, called the -<i>Nieuwe Kerk</i>. There the gloomy pageantry -of the black escutcheons, above a choir, -silent, empty and vast, and the withering -remains of colours, won by hands long since -gone to their decay, prolong the consideration -of the transientness of human worth -and happiness, which can so easily be destroyed -by the command, or the hand of -human villainy.</p> - -<p>This tomb is thought to be not exceeded -by any piece of sepulchral grandeur in Europe. -Standing alone, in a wide choir, it is -much more conspicuous and striking than -a monumental fabric raised against a wall, -at the same time that its sides are so varied as -to present each a new spectacle. It was begun -in 1609, by order of the States General, -and completed in 1621; the artist, <span class="smallcaps">Hendrik -de Keyzer</span>, receiving 28,000 florins -as its price, and 2000 more as a present. -The length is 20 feet, the breadth 15, and -height 27. A bronze statue of the Prince, -sitting in full armour, with his sword, scarf, -and commander's staff, renders one side the -chief; on the other is his effigy in white -marble, lying at full length; and at his feet, -in the same marble, the figure of the dog, -which is said to have refused food from the -moment of its master's death. Round the -tomb, twenty-two columns of veined or -black Italian marble, of the Doric order, and, -with bases and capitals of white marble, support -a roof or canopy, ornamented with -many emblems, and with the <i>achievements</i> -of the Prince.</p> - -<p>At the corners, are the statues of Religion, -Liberty, Justice, and Fortitude, of which the -first rests upon a piece of black marble, on -which is inscribed in golden letters the name -of <span class="smallcaps">Christ</span>; and the second holds a cap, -with the inscription <i>Aurea Libertas</i>. On -the four sides of the canopy are the devices -of the Prince, with the inscriptions <span class="smallcaps">Jehovah</span>.—<i>Je -maintiendrai Piété et Justice.</i>—<i>Te -Vindice, tuta Libertas.</i>—And, <i>Sævis -tranquillus in Undis</i>.</p> - -<p>There are many other ornaments, which -give dignity or elegance to the structure, -but cannot be described without tediousness. -The well-known Epitaph is certainly worth -transcribing:</p> - -<p>D. O. M. et eternæ memoriæ Gulielmi -Nassoviæ, supremi Auransionensium Principis, -Patr. patriæ, qui Belgii fortunis suas posthabuit -et suorum; validissimos exercitus ære -plurimum privato bis conscripsit, bis induxit; -ordinum auspiciis Hispaniæ tyrannidem -propulit; veræ religionis cultum, avitas -patriæ leges revocavit, restituit; ipsam -denique libertatem tantum non assertam, -Mauritio Principi, paternæ virtutis hæredi -filio, stabiliendam reliquit. Herois vere pii, -prudentis, invicti, quem Philip. II. Hisp. R. -Europæ timor, timuit; non domuit, non -terruit; sed empto percussore fraude nefanda -sustulit; Fœderat. Belgii provinc. -perenni memor. monum. fec.</p> - -<p>"To <span class="smallcaps">God</span> the best and highest, and to -the eternal memory of William of Nassau, -Sovereign Prince of Orange, the father of -his country, whose welfare he preferred to -that of himself and his family; who, chiefly -at his own expence, twice levied and introduced -a powerful army; under the sanction -of the States repelled the tyranny of Spain; -recovered and restored the service of true -religion and the ancient laws of the country; -and finally left the liberty, which he -had himself asserted, to be established by his -son, Prince Maurice, the heir of his father's -virtues. The Confederated Belgic Provinces -have erected this monument, in perpetual -memory of this truly pious, prudent and unconquered -Hero, whom Philip II. King of -Spain, the dread of Europe, dreaded; never -overcame, never terrified; but, with wicked -treachery, carried off by means of an hired -assassin."</p> - -<p>The tomb of <span class="smallcaps">Grotius</span> is in the same -church, which is a stately building of brick -and stone, but has nothing of the "dim -religious light," that sooths the mind in -Gothic structures. Upon the steeple are -many small bells, the chimes rung upon -which are particularly esteemed, both for -tone and tune.</p> - -<p>On the opposite side of a very large -market-place is the Town-house, an old -building, but so fresh and so fantastic with -paint, as to have some resemblance to a -Chinese temple. The body is coloured -with a light, or yellowish brown, and is two -stories high to the roof, in which there are -two tier of peaked windows, each under its -ornament of gilded wood, carved into an -awkward resemblance of shells. Upon the -front is inscribed, "<i>Delphensium Curia Reparata</i>," -and immediately over the door -"<i>Reparata 1761</i>."</p> - -<p>The <i>Oude Kerk</i>, or Old Church, is in another -part of the town, and is not remarkable, -except for the tombs of <span class="smallcaps">Leuwenhoek</span>, -<span class="smallcaps">Peter Heine</span> and <span class="smallcaps">Van Tromp</span>. That -of <span class="smallcaps">Leuwenhoek</span> has a short inscription, in -Latin almost as bad as that of a verse epitaph -upon <span class="smallcaps">Grotius</span>, in the other church. -He was born, it appears, in October 1632, -and died in August 1723. The tombs of -<span class="smallcaps">Heine</span> and <span class="smallcaps">Van Tromp</span> are very handsome. -There are the effigies of both in -white marble, and one of the victories gained -by the latter is represented in <i>alto relievo</i>. -On account of the tombs, both churches -are open, during certain hours in the day; -and a beadle, or, perhaps, an almsman, is -placed in each, who presents a padlocked -box, into which money may be put for -the poor.</p> - -<p>In this town is the chief arsenal of the -province of Holland, except that the magazine -of powder is at the distance of about -a mile from it, near the canal to Rotterdam. -In 1787, when the dissensions between -the <span class="smallcaps">States General</span> and the -<span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span> were at their height, -a provincial free corps seized this arsenal, and -held it for the States till the return of the -<span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span> to the Hague, a few -weeks afterwards.</p> - -<p>Having seen what was pointed out to our -notice, at Delft, and learned that its -extensiveness was owing to the residence of a -great number of retired merchants from -Rotterdam, we left it in a <i>trechtschuyt</i> for -the Hague, having little other notion of it -in our minds, than that it is very dull and -very rich, and of a size, for which there is -no recompense to a stranger, except in considering, -that its dullness is the rest of those, -who have once been busy, and that its -riches are at least not employed in aggravating -the miseries of poverty by ostentation.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="THE_HAGUE" id="THE_HAGUE">THE HAGUE.</a></h3> - -<p>A voyage of an hour and a half -brought us here over a canal well bordered -by country houses and gardens, all of which, -as in other parts of Holland, have some inscription -upon their gates, to say, that they -are pleasant, or are intended for pleasure. -<i>Fine Sight</i>, <i>Pleasant Rest</i>, <i>High Delight</i>, or -some similar inscription, is to be seen over -the door of every country house, in gold letters. -On our way, we looked for Ryswick, -where the treaty of 1697 was signed, and -saw the village, but not the palace, which, -being of free stone, is mentioned as a sort of -curiosity in the country. It is this palace, -which is said to contain proofs of an extraordinary -dispute upon questions of ceremony. -The Ambassadors, sent to prepare -the treaty, are related to have contended so -long, concerning their rights of precedence, -that the only mode of reconciling them was -to make separate entrances, and to allow the -Mediating Minister alone admission by the -principal gate.</p> - -<p>From the <i>trechtschuyt</i> we had a long walk -to our inn, an handsome house, standing -almost in the midst of palaces, and looking -over a noble sheet of water, called the <i>Vyver</i>, -which extends behind the <i>Court</i>, for its -whole length, flowing nearly to the level of -the lower windows. The <i>Court</i> itself, a -large brick building, irregular, but light and -pleasant, was entirely within our view, on -the left; on the right, a row of magnificent -houses, separated from the <i>Vyver</i> by a large -mall; and, in front, beyond the <i>Vyver</i>, a -broad place, bordered by several public buildings. -In this Court all the superior colleges -of government have their chambers, and the -<span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span> his suite of apartments. -The fossé, which surrounds it, three drawbridges -and as many gates are the only fortifications -of the Hague, which has been several -times threatened with the entrance of -an enemy, but has not been taken since 1595, -when the magistrates of the then infant republic, -and all the superior inhabitants, retired -to <i>Delft</i>, leaving the streets to be overrun -with grass, and the place to become a -desert under the eyes of its oppressors. -During the invasion of <span class="smallcaps">Louis</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Fourteenth</span>, -it escaped the ravages of the -<span class="smallcaps">Duke</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Luxembourg's</span> column, by the -sudden dissolution of the ice, on which he -had placed 9000 foot and 2000 cavalry. -Yet the advice of <span class="smallcaps">William</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Third</span>, -who probably thought money better expended -in strengthening the frontier than -the interior of the country, counteracted a -plan of fortification, which was then proposed, -for the third or fourth time.</p> - -<p>The Court consists of two squares; in -the inner of which are the apartments of the -<span class="smallcaps">Stadtholder</span>, and none but himself and -his family can enter this in carriages, or on -horseback. On the northern side, in the first -floor, are the apartments of the <span class="smallcaps">States -General</span>, which we saw. The principal -one is spacious, as a room, but has not the -air of a hall of debate. Twenty-six chairs -for the Deputies are placed on two sides of -a long table: the President, whose chair is -in the centre, has on his right hand, first, -a Deputy of his own province, then three -Deputies of Friesland, and two of Groningen; -on his left, six Deputies of Holland; -opposite to him, nearest to the head of the -table, six Deputies of Guelderland, then -three of Zealand, then two of Utrecht, and -two of Overyssel. The <span class="smallcaps">Stadtholder</span>, -who has a place, but not a vote, has a raised -chair at the upper end of the table; the Secretary -is seated opposite to him, and is allowed -to wear his hat, like the Deputies, -during their deliberations, but must stand -uncovered, behind the President, when he -reads letters, or other papers. The number -of Deputies is known to be indefinite; -about fifty are generally returned; and those, -who are present from each province, more -than the number allowed at the table, place -themselves below it. The walls of this room -are covered with tapestry, not representing -historical events, but rural scenery; the backs -and seats of the chairs are of green velvet; -and all the furniture, though stately and in -the best condition, is without the least approach -to show. These apartments, and -the whole of this side of the Court, were the -residence of <span class="smallcaps">Charles</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Fifth</span>, when he -visited the Hague, and of the <span class="smallcaps">Earl</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Leicester</span>, -when he commanded the troops -lent to the Republic by <span class="smallcaps">Elizabeth</span>.</p> - -<p>The government of the United Provinces -is too well known to permit a detailed description -here, but some notice may reasonably -be expected of it.</p> - -<p>The chief depositaries of the sovereignty -are not the States General, but the Provincial -States, of whose Deputies the former -body is composed, and without whose consent -they never vote upon important measures. -In the States General each Province -has one vote; which, with the reasons for -it, may be delivered by an unlimited number -of Deputies; and the first Deputy of each -province presides in the States by rotation -for a week. In questions relative to peace -or war, alliances, taxes, coinages, and to the -privileges of provinces, no measures can be -taken but by unanimous consent; upon -other occasions, a majority is sufficient. No -persons holding military offices can be Deputies -to the States General, which appoints -and receives all ambassadors, declares war, -makes peace, and names the Greffier, or Secretary -of State, and all Staff Officers.</p> - -<p>The Provincial States are variously composed, -and the interior governments of the -provinces variously formed. In the province -of Holland, which contains the most -prosperous part of the Republic, there are -eighteen Deputies to the Provincial States, -for as many towns, and one for the nobility. -The Grand Pensionary presides in this assembly, -and is always one of the Deputies -from it to the States General.</p> - -<p>The Council of Deputies is composed of -ten members: nine from the towns, and one -from the nobility. This Council, in which -the Grand Pensionary also presides, regulates -the finances of the province, and takes -cognizance of the distribution of troops -within it.</p> - -<p>The Council, called the Council of State, -is composed, like the States General, of -Deputies returned from the provinces, and -appears to be to that body, in a great measure, -what the Council of Deputies is to -the Provincial States, having the direction -of the army and the finances.</p> - -<p>As provincial affairs are directed by the -Provincial States, so the affairs of each town -are governed by its own Senate, which also -returns the members, if the town is entitled -to send one, to the States of the Province, -and directs the vote, which that member -shall give. The Burgomasters in each town -are the magistrates charged with the police -and the finances, and are usually elected -annually by the old Council, that is, by those -who have been Burgomasters, or <i>Echevins</i>. -These latter officers have the administration -of civil and criminal affairs, and are, in -some places, appointed by the Stadtholder -from a double number nominated to him; -in others, are accepted from the recommendation -of the Stadtholder. The Bailiffs preside -in the Council of Burgomasters and -Echevins; and in their name prosecutions -are instituted.</p> - -<p>Of the Deputies to the States General, -some are for life, and some for one or more -years.</p> - -<p>Such is the nicely complicated frame of -this government, in which the Senates of the -Towns elect the Provincial States, and the -Provincial States the States General; the -latter body being incapable of deciding in -certain cases, except with unanimity and -with the express consent of their constituents, -the Provincial States; who again cannot -give that consent, except with -unanimity and with the consent of their constituents, -the Senates.</p> - -<p>The Stadtholder, it is seen, has not directly, -and in consequence of that office, any -share of the legislative power; but, being a -Noble of four provinces, he, of course, participates -in that part of the sovereignty, -which the Nobility enjoy when they send -Deputies to the Provincial States. Of Zealand -he is the only Noble, all the other -titled families having been destroyed in the -original contest with Spain; and there are -no renewals or creations of titles in the -United Provinces. In Guelderland, Holland, -and Utrecht, he is President of the -Nobles. He is Commander of all the -Forces of the Republic by sea and land; -and the Council of State, of which he is a -member, is, in military affairs, almost entirely -under his direction; he names all -subaltern officers, and recommends those -for higher appointments to the States -General. In Guelderland, Utrecht, and Overyssel, -which are called <i>Provinces aux Reglemens</i>, -because, having submitted to <span class="smallcaps">Louis</span> -the <span class="smallcaps">Fourteenth</span>, in 1672, they were not -re-admitted to the Union, but with some sacrifice -of their privileges, he appoints to offices, -without the nomination of the cities; -he is Governor General of the East and West -Indian Companies, and names all the Directors -from a treble number of candidates -offered by the Proprietors. His name presides -in all the courts of law; and his heart, -it may be hoped, dictates in the noble right -of pardoning.</p> - -<p>This is the essential form of a government, -which, for two centuries, has protected -as great a share of civil and religious -liberty as has been enjoyed in any other -part of Europe, resisting equally the chances -of dissolution, contained within itself; and -the less dangerous schemes for its destruction, -dictated by the jealousy of arbitrary -interests without.</p> - -<p>Its intricacy and delicacy are easily seen; -yet, of the objections made to it on this account, -more are founded on some maxims, -assumed to be universal, than upon the separate -considerations due to the condition -of a separate people. How much the means -of political happiness depend, for their effect, -upon the civil characters of those for -whom they are designed, has been very little -seen, or insisted upon. It has been unnoticed, -because such enquiries have not the -brilliancy, or the facility, of general speculations, -nor can command equal attention, -nor equally reward systems with those parts -of their importance, that consist in the immensity -of the sphere, to which they pretend. -To extend their arms is the flagitious ambition -of warriors; to enlarge their systems is -the ambition of writers, especially of political -writers. A juster effort of understanding -would aim at rendering the application -of principles more exact, rather than more -extensive, and would produce enquiries into -the circumstances of national character and -condition, that should regulate that application. -A more modest estimate of human -means of doing good would shew the gradations, -through which all human advances -must be made. A more severe integrity of -views would stipulate, that the means should -be as honest as the end, and would strive to -ascertain, from the moral and intellectual -character of a people, the degree of political -happiness, of which they are capable; a process, -without which projected advances become -obstructions; and the philosopher begins -his experiment, for the amelioration of -society, as prematurely as the sculptor would -polish his statue before he had delineated -the features.</p> - -<p>Whether the constitution of the United -Provinces is exactly as good an one as the -people are capable of enjoying, can be determined -only after a much longer and abler -enquiry than we could make; but it seemed -proper to observe, that, in judging this -question, it is not enough to discover better -forms of government, without finding also -some reason to believe, that the intellectual -and moral condition of the people would secure -the existence of those better forms. In -the mean time, they, who make the enquiry, -may be assured, that, under the present <span class="small"><sup><a href="#fn1">1</a></sup></span><a name="fn1r" id="fn1r"></a> government, -there is a considerable degree of -political liberty, though political happiness is -not permitted by the present circumstances -of Europe; that the general adoption of -the Stadtholder's measures by the States has -been unduly mentioned to shew an immoderate -influence, for that, in point of fact, -his measures are often rejected; that this rejection -produces no public agitation, nor can -those, who differ from him in opinion, be -successfully represented as enemies to their -country; that there are very few offices, -which enable private persons to become -rich, at the expence of the public, so as to -have a different interest from them; that the -sober industry and plain manners of the -people prevent them from looking to political -conduct of any sort as a means of improving -their fortunes; that, for these reasons, -the intricate connections between the -parts of their government are less inconvenient -than may be supposed, since good measures -will not be obstructed, or bad ones -supported, for corrupt purposes, though misconceptions -may sometimes produce nearly -the same effect; that conversation is perfectly -free; and that the habit of watching -the strength of parties, for the purpose of -joining the strongest and persecuting the -weakest, does not occupy the minds of any -numerous classes amongst them.</p> - -<p><a href="#fn1r">1</a><a name="fn1" id="fn1"> </a>June 1794.</p> - -<p>We saw no other apartments than those of -the States General, the <span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span> -being then in his own. The Princess was -at a seat in Guelderland, with her daughter-in-law, -the wife of the Hereditary Prince, -who had been indisposed since the surprise -of the Dutch troops at Menin, on the 12th -of September 1793, in which affair her -husband was engaged. When the officer, -who brought the first accounts, which were -not written, to the Hague, had related that -the younger prince was wounded, the Hereditary -Princess enquired, with great eagerness, -concerning his brother. The officer -indiscreetly replied, that he knew nothing of -him; which the Princess supposed to imply, -that he was dead; and she has since been -somewhat an invalid.</p> - -<p>Though the salaries enjoyed by the Prince -of Orange, in consequence of his offices, -are by no means considerable, he is enabled, -by his patrimonial estates, to maintain some -modest splendour. The Court is composed -of a grand master, a marshal, a grand equerry, -ten chamberlains, five ladies of honour, -and six gentlemen of the chamber. Ten -young men, with the title of pages, are -educated at the expence of the Prince, in -a house adjoining his <i>manege</i>. As Captain-General, -he is allowed eight adjutants, and, -as Admiral, three.</p> - -<p>We could not learn the amount of the -income enjoyed by the <span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>, -which must, indeed, be very variable, arising -chiefly from his own estates. The greater -part of these are in the province of Zealand, -where seventeen villages and part of the -town of Breda are his property. The fortifications -of several places there are said to -have been chiefly erected at the expence of -the Orange family. His farms in that neighbourhood -suffered greatly in the campaign -of 1792, and this part of his income has -since been much diminished. The management -of his revenues, derived from possessions -in Germany, affords employment to -four or five persons, at an Office, separate -from his ordinary Treasury; and he had -estates in the Low Countries. All this is -but the wreck of a fortune, honourably diminished -by William the First of Orange, -in the contest with Spain; the remembrance -of whom may, perhaps, involuntarily influence -one's opinion of his successors.</p> - -<p>During May, the western gate of the -palace is ornamented, according to ancient -custom, with garlands for each person of the -Orange family. Chaplets, with the initials -of each, in flowers, are placed under large -coronets, upon green flag-staffs. We passed -by when they were taking these down, and -perceived that all the ornaments could scarcely -have cost five shillings. So humble are the -Dutch notions of pageantry.</p> - -<p>Among the offices included within the -walls of the court is a printing-house, in -which the <span class="smallcaps">States General</span> and the States -of Holland employ only persons sworn to -secrecy as to the papers committed to them. -It may seem strange to require secrecy from -those, whose art is chiefly useful in conferring -publicity; but the truth is, that many -papers are printed here, which are never -communicated to the public, the States employing -the press for the sake of its cheapness, -and considering that any of their -members, who would shew a printed paper, -would do the same with a written one.</p> - -<p>In a large square, near the court, is the -cabinet of natural history, of which we have -not the knowledge necessary for giving a -description. It is arranged in small rooms, -which are opened, at twelve o'clock, to -those, who have applied the day before. -One article, said to be very rare, and certainly -very beautiful, was an animal of the -Deer species, about fourteen inches high, -exquisitely shaped and marked, and believed -to be at its full growth. It was brought -from the coast of Africa.</p> - -<p>The Stadtholder's library was accidentally -shut, owing to the illness of the librarian. -The picture gallery was open, but of -paintings we have resolved to exempt our -readers from any mention. The former is -said to contain eight thousand volumes, -and fourteen thousand prints in portfolios. -Among the illuminated MSS. in vellum is -one, used by the sanguinary Catherine De -Medicis and her children; and another, -which belonged to Isabella of Castille, the -grandmother of Charles the Fifth. What -must be oddly placed in a library is a suit -of armour of Francis the First, which was -once in the cabinet of Christina of Sweden. -Though this collection is the private property -of the Prince, the librarian is permitted -to lend books to persons, known to him -and likely to use them advantageously for -science.</p> - -<p>We passed a long morning in walking -through the streets of this place, which contain -probably more magnificent houses than -can be found in the same space in any city -of Northern Europe. The Grand <i>Voorbout</i> -is rather, indeed, two series of palaces than -a street. Between two broad carriage-ways, -which pass immediately along the sides, are -several alleys of tall lime trees, canopying -walks, first laid out by Charles the Fifth, -in 1536, and ordered to be carefully preserved, -the <i>placard</i> being still extant, which -directs the punishment of offenders against -them. It would be tedious to mention the -many splendid buildings in this and the -neighbouring streets. Among the most conspicuous -is the present residence of the British -Ambassadors, built by <span class="smallcaps">Huguetan</span>, the -celebrated banker of <span class="smallcaps">Louis</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Fourteenth</span>, -and that of the Russian Minister, -which was erected by the Pensionary <span class="smallcaps">Barneveldt</span>. -But the building, which was -intended to exceed all others at the Hague, -is the Hotel of the Prince of <span class="smallcaps">Nassau -Weilbourg</span>; who, having married the -sister of the <span class="smallcaps">Prince</span> of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>, bought, -at an immense expence, eight good houses, -facing the <i>Voorbout</i>, in order to erect upon -their scite a magnificent palace. What has -been already built of this is extremely fine, -in the crescent form; but a German, arriving -to the expenditure of a Dutch fortune, -probably did not estimate it by Dutch prices. -It was begun eighteen years since, and, for -the last twelve, has not proceeded.</p> - -<p>Superb public buildings occur at almost -every step through the Hague. At one end -of the terrace, on which we were lodged, -is the <i>Doelen</i>, a spacious mansion, opening -partly upon the <i>Tournois Veld</i>, or Place of -Tournaments. The burgesses here keep -their colours, and, what is remarkable, still -preserve the <i>insignia</i> of the <i>Toison d'Or</i>, -given to them by <span class="smallcaps">Charles</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Fifth</span>. -Our <span class="smallcaps">William</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Third</span> being admitted, -at ten years of age, to the right of a burgess -here, was invested with this order by the -Burgomaster. At the other end of the terrace -is the palace, built for Prince <span class="smallcaps">Maurice</span> -of <span class="smallcaps">Nassau</span>, upon his return from the government -of Brazil, by <span class="smallcaps">Kampfen</span>, Lord -of Rambroek, architect of the Stadthouse at -Amsterdam. The interior of this building -was destroyed by fire, in the commencement -of the present century; but, the stately -walls of stone and brick being uninjured, the -rooms were restored by the proprietors, assisted -by a lottery. It is an instance of the -abundance of buildings here, that this palace -is now chiefly used as a place of meeting, -for the œconomical branch of the society of -Haerlem, and for a society, instituted here, -for the encouragement of Dutch poetry.</p> - -<p>The number of public buildings is much -increased by the houses, which the eighteen -towns provide for their Deputies, sent to the -States of the Province. These are called the -<i>Logements</i> of the several towns; and there -has been a great deal of emulation, as to -their magnificence. Amsterdam and Rotterdam -have the finest.</p> - -<p>The churches are not remarkable for antiquity, -or grandeur. A congregation of -English Protestants have their worship performed, -in the manner of the Dissenters, in -a small chapel near the <i>Vyver</i>, where we had -the satisfaction to hear their venerable pastor, -the Rev. Dr. <span class="smallcaps">M'Clean</span>.</p> - -<p>The residence of a Court at the Hague -renders the appearance of the inhabitants -less national and characteristic than elsewhere. -There are few persons in the streets, -who, without their orange cockades, might -not be mistaken for English; but ribbons -of this colour are almost universal, which -some wear in their hats, and some upon a -button-hole of the coat. The poorest persons, -and there are more poor here than -elsewhere, find something orange-coloured -to shew. Children have it placed upon their -caps; so that the practice is carried to an -extent as ridiculous, as the prohibition was -in 1785, when the magistrates ordered, that -<i>nothing orange-coloured should be worn, or -shewn, not even fruits, or flowers, and that -carrots should not be exposed to sale with the -ends outwards</i>.</p> - -<p>The distinctions between political classes -are very strongly marked and preserved in -Holland. We were informed, that there are -some villages, in which the wearing of a -cockade, and others, in which the want of -one, would expose a passenger, especially -a native, to insults. In the cities, where -those of both parties must transact business -together, the distinction is not much observed. -In Amsterdam, the friends of the -Stadtholder do not wear cockades. For the -most part, the seamen, farmers and labouring -classes in the towns are attached to the -Orange family, whose opponents are chiefly -composed of the opulent merchants and -tradesmen.</p> - -<p>A history, or even a description of the -two parties, if we were enabled to give it, -would occupy too much space here; but it -may be shortly mentioned, that the original, -or chief cause of the dissension was, as might -be expected, entirely of a commercial nature. -The English interest had an unanimous popularity -in Holland, about the year 1750. -In the war of 1756, the French, having sustained -a great loss of shipping, employed -Dutch vessels to bring the produce of their -American islands to Europe, and thus established -a considerable connection with the -merchants of Amsterdam and Rotterdam. -The Court of Versailles took care, that the -stream of French wealth, which they saw -setting into the United Provinces, should -carry with it some French politics; while -the wealth itself effected more than all their -contrivance, and gradually produced a kindness -for France, especially in the province -of Holland, through which it chiefly circulated. -The English Ministers took all -Dutch ships, having French property on -board; and the popularity of England was -for a time destroyed. Several maritime -towns, probably with some instigation from -France, demanded a war against England. -The friends of the Stadtholder prevented -this; and from that time the Prince began -to share whatever unpopularity the measures -of the English Ministers, or the industry -of the English traders, could excite in -a rival and a commercial country.</p> - -<p>The capture of the French West India -islands soon after removed the cause of the -dispute; but the effects of it survived in the -jealousy of the great cities towards the Stadtholder, -and were much aggravated by the -losses of their merchants, at the commencement -of hostilities between England and the -United Provinces, in 1780. The Dutch -fleet being then unprepared to sail, and -every thing, which could float, having been -sent out of the harbours of Yorkshire and -Lincolnshire to intercept their trading ships, -the fortunes of many of the most opulent -houses in Holland were severely shook, and -all their members became the enemies of the -Stadtholder.</p> - -<p>If to these circumstances it is added, that -the province of Holland, which pays fifty-eight -parts of every hundred, levied by taxes, -has an ambition for acquiring greater influence -in the general government, than is bestowed -by its single vote, we have probably -all the original causes of the party distinctions -in Holland, though others may have -been incorporated with others, during a long -series of events and many violent struggles -of the passions.</p> - -<p>The Stadtholder, who has had the misfortune -to attract so much attention by his -difficulties, is said to be a man of plain manners -and sound understanding, neither capable -of political intrigue, nor inclined to it. -His office requires, especially during a war, -a great deal of substantial, personal labour, -to which he devotes himself earnestly and -continually, but which he has not the vigour -to bear, without an evident oppression of -spirits. We saw him at a parade of the -Guards, and it is not necessary to be told of -his labours to perceive how much he is -affected by them. It is scarcely possible to -conceive a countenance more expressive of -a mind, always urged, always pressed upon, -and not often receiving the relief of complete -confidence in its efforts. His person -is short and extremely corpulent; his air -in conversation modest and mild. This attendance -upon the parade is his chief exercise, -or relaxation at the Hague, where he -frequently passes ten of the hours between -five in a morning and nine at night in his -cabinet. He comes, accompanied by one -or two officers, and his presence produces -no crowd. When we had viewed the parade -and returned home, we saw him walking -under our windows towards the <i>Voorbout</i>, -accompanied by an officer, but not followed -by a single person.</p> - -<p>Conversation does not turn so much upon -the family of the Stadtholder, as that we -could acquire any distinct opinions of the -other parts of it. Of his humanity and -temper, there was sufficient proof, in 1787, -when he returned to the Hague and was -master of the persons of those, who had -lately banished him. Indeed, the conduct -of both parties, with respect to the personal -safety of their adversaries, was honourable -to the character of the nation. The States -of Holland, during the prevalence of their -authority, did not pretend, according to the -injustice of similar cases, to any right of -destroying the friends of the Stadtholder, -who were in their hands; the Stadtholder, -when he returned, and when the public detestation -of his adversaries was at an height, -which would have permitted any measures -against them, demanded no other retribution, -than that seventeen, named in a list, -should be declared incapable of holding -offices under the Republic.</p> - -<p>One of the best excursions from the -Hague is made to the <i>Maison du Bois</i>, a -small palace of the Prince of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>, in a -wood, which commences almost at the northern -gate of the town. This wood is called -a park, but it is open to the public roads -from Leyden, Haerlem and Amsterdam, -which pass through its noble alleys of oak -and beech. It is remarkable for having -so much attracted the regard of Philip the -Second, that, in the campaign of 1574, he -ordered his officers not to destroy it; and -is probably the only thing, not destined for -himself, of which this ample destroyer of -human kind and of his own family ever -directed the preservation. <span class="smallcaps">Louis</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Fourteenth</span>, -probably having heard the praises -of this care, left the mall of Utrecht to be -a monument of similar tenderness, during -an unprovoked invasion, which cost ten -thousand lives.</p> - -<p>The apartments of the <i>Maison du Bois</i> are -very variously furnished. The best are fitted -up with a light grey sattin, imbossed with -Chinese birds and plants, in silk and feathers -of the most beautiful tints; the window curtains, -screens and coverings of the sophas -and chairs are the same, and the frames of -the latter are also of Chinese workmanship. -Nothing more delicate and tasteful can be -conceived; but, that you may not be quite -distracted with admiration, the carpets are -such as an English merchant would scarcely -receive into a parlour. The furniture of the -state bed-chamber is valuable, and has once -been splendid; a light balustrade of curious -Japan work, about three feet high, runs -across the room, and divides that part, in -which the bed stands, from the remainder. -The Princess's drawing-room, in which card -parties are sometimes held, is well embellished -with paintings, and may be called a -superb apartment; but here again there is -an instance of the incompleteness, said to -be observable in the furniture of all rooms, -out of England. Of four card tables two -are odd ones, and literally would be despised -in a broker's shop in London. The great -glory of the house is the <i>Salle d'Orange</i>, an -oblong saloon of noble height, with pannels, -painted by nine celebrated painters of the -Flemish and Dutch schools, among whom -<span class="smallcaps">Van Tulden</span>, a pupil of <span class="smallcaps">Rubens</span>, has -observed his manner so much in a workshop -of Vulcan and in a figure of Venus forming -a trophy, that they have been usually attributed -to his master. The subjects on the -pannels and ceiling are all allegorical, and -complimentary, for the most part, to the -Princes of the House of Orange, especially -to <span class="smallcaps">Frederic Henry</span>, the son of the first -<span class="smallcaps">William</span> and the grandson of the Admiral -<span class="smallcaps">Coligny</span>. It was at the expence of -his widow, that the house was built and the -saloon thus ornamented.</p> - -<p>Almost all the rooms are decorated with -family portraits, of which some have just -been contributed by the pencil of the Hereditary -Princess. A large piece represents -herself, taking a likeness of the Princess her -mother-in-law, and includes what is said to -be an admirable portrait of her husband. -On the six doors of the grand cabinet are -six whole lengths of ladies of the House of -Orange, exhibited in allegorical characters. -The doors being covered by the paintings, -when that, by which you have entered, is -shut, you cannot tell the way back again. -A portrait of <span class="smallcaps">Louisa de Coligny</span>, the -widow of William the First, is enriched -with a painter's pun; she is presented by -<i>Hope</i> with a branch of an <i>orange</i> tree, containing -only <i>one</i> orange; from which the -spectator is to learn, that her <i>son</i> was her -<i>only hope</i>.</p> - -<p>The most delightful outlet from the Hague -is towards Schevening, a village on the -sea-shore, nearly two miles distant, the road -to which has been often and properly celebrated -as a noble monument of tasteful -grandeur. Commencing at the canal, which -surrounds the Hague, it proceeds to the village -through a vista so exactly straight, that -the steeple of Schevening, the central object -at the end of it, is visible at the first entrance. -Four rows of lofty elms are planted -along the road, of which the two central -lines form this perfect and most picturesque -vista; the others shelter paths on each side -of it, for foot passengers.</p> - -<p>The village itself, containing two or three -hundred houses of fishermen and peasants, -would be a spectacle, for its neatness, any -where but in Holland. There is no square, -or street of the most magnificent houses in -London, that can equal it for an universal -appearance of freshness. It is positively -bright with cleanliness; though its only -street opens upon the sea, and is the resort -of hundreds of fishermen. We passed a most -delightful day at a little inn upon the beach, -sometimes looking into the history of the -village, which is very ancient; then enquiring -into its present condition; and then enjoying -the prospect of the ocean, boundless -to our view, on one side, and appearing to -be but feebly restrained by a long tract of -low white coast on the other.</p> - -<p>The sea beats furiously upon the beach -here, which has no doubt been much raised -by art for the defence of the village. There -is at least no other way of accounting for -its security, since 1574, between which year -and the latter end of the preceding century, -it sustained six inundations. The first, in -1470, demolished a church; the last washed -away an hundred and twenty houses; notwithstanding -which, the inhabitants built -again upon their stormy shore; and their industry, -that, at length, protected them from -the sea, enabled them to endure also the -more inveterate ravages of the Spaniards. -On this beach lie occasionally great numbers -of herring busses, too stoutly built to be injured -by touching it. We suspect our information -to have been exaggerated; but -we heard on the spot, that no less than one -hundred and five belong to this village of -little more than two hundred houses, or are -managed by agents in it. About forty were -set on float by the tide in the afternoon, and, -being hauled by means of anchors beyond a -very heavy surf, were out of sight, before -we left the place.</p> - -<p>It was amusing to see the persevering, -effectual, but not very active exertions of -the seamen in this business, which could not -often be more difficult than it then was, -when a strong wind blew directly upon the -shore. We here first perceived, what we -had many other opportunities of observing, -that, notwithstanding the general admiration -of Dutch industry, it is of a nature which -would scarcely acquire that name in England. -A Dutchman of the labouring class is, indeed, -seldom seen unemployed; but we -never observed one man working hard, according -to the English notion of the term. -Perseverance, carefulness, and steadiness are -theirs, beyond any rivalship; the vehemence, -force, activity and impatience of an English -sailor, or workman, are unknown to them. -You will never see a Dutchman enduring -the fatigue, or enjoying the rest, of a London -porter. Heavy burthens, indeed, they -do not carry. At Amsterdam, where -carriages are even somewhat obnoxious, a cask, -holding four or five gallons of liquor, is removed -by a horse and a sledge.</p> - -<p>On our way from Schevening, where a -dinner costs more than at an hotel in the -Hague, we turned a little to the right to see -Portland Gardens, once the favourite resort -of William and Mary; and said to be laid -out in the English taste. They are now a -bad specimen even of Dutch gardens. The -situation is unusually low, having on one -hand the raised bank of the Schevening -road, and, on another, the sand hills of the -coast. Between these, the moisture of the -sea air is held for a long time, and finally -drawn down upon the earth. The artificial -ornaments are stained and decaying; and -the grass and weeds of the neglected plots -are capable only of a putrid green. Over -walks of a black mould you are led to the -orangery, where there is more decay, and -may look through the windows of the green-house, -to perceive how every thing is declining -there. Some pavilions, provided with -water spouts, are then to be seen; and, if -you have the patience to wait the conclusion -of an operation, intended to surprise you, -you may count how many of the pipes refuse -to perform their office.</p> - -<p>Nearer to the Hague, we were stopped to -pay a toll of a few doights; a circumstance -which was attended with this proof of civility. -Having passed in the morning, without -the demand, we enquired why it should -be made now. The gatherer replied, that he -had seen us pass, but, knowing that we must -return by the same way, had avoided giving -more trouble than was necessary. This tax -is paid for the support of the bank, or digue, -over which the road passes; a work, begun -on the 1st of May 1664, and finished on the -5th of December 1665, by the assistance of -a loan granted for the enterprise. The -breadth of the road is thirty-two yards.</p> - -<p>The next day, after seeing the relief of -the Stadtholder's <i>garde du corps</i>, the privates -of which wear feathered hats, with uniforms -of scarlet and gold, we left the Hague, -with much admiration of its pleasantness and -quiet grandeur, and took the <i>roof</i> of the -trechtschuyt for Leyden.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="LEYDEN" id="LEYDEN">LEYDEN.</a></h3> - -<p>Three hours pleasant floating along -a canal, adorned with frequent country -houses, gardens, summer-houses and square -balconies, or rather platforms, projecting -over the water, within an hand's breadth of -its level, brought us to this city, which was -esteemed the second in Holland, before Rotterdam -gained its present extent. Leyden is, -however, so large, that a traveller is likely to -have a walk of half a league to his inn; and -those who arrive, as we did, at the time of -the fair, may find the procession not very -pleasant. We increased our difficulties by -turning away from the dirt and incivility of -what was called the best inn, and did not -afterwards find a better, though such, it -seems, might have been had.</p> - -<p>Having, at length, become contented with -the worst, we went towards the fair, of -which we had as yet seen only the crowd. -The booths, being disposed under trees and -along the borders of canals, made the whole -appearance differ from that of an English -fair, though not quite so much as we had -expected. The stock of the shopkeepers -makes a greater distinction. There were several -booths filled with silversmiths' and -jewellers' wares, to the amount of, probably, -some thousand pounds each. Large -French clocks in <i>or moulu</i> and porcelain -were among their stores. All the trades displayed -the most valuable articles, that could -be asked for in similar shops in large cities. -We had the pleasure to see great quantities -of English goods, and there were English -names over three, or four of the booths.</p> - -<p>The Dutch dresses were now become so -familiar to us, that the crowd seemed as remarkable -for the number of other persons in -it, as for the abundance of peasants in their -holiday finery, which, it is pleasant to know, -displays the ornamental relics of several generations, -fashion having very little influence -in Holland. The fair occupied about -a fourth part of the town, which we soon -left to see the remainder. Two streets, parallel -to each other, run through its whole -length, and include the few public halls of -an University, which would scarcely be -known to exist, if it had no more conspicuous -objects than its buildings. The Dutch -universities contain no endowed foundations; -so that the professors, who have their -salaries from the States, live in private houses, -and the students in lodgings. The academical -dress is worn only in the schools, and -by the professors. The library, to which -Joseph Scaliger was a benefactor, is open -only once in a week, and then for no more -than two hours. It is the constant policy -of the Dutch government, to make strangers -leave as much money as possible behind -them; and Leyden was once so greatly the -resort of foreigners, that it was thought important -not to let them read for nothing -what they must otherwise be obliged to buy. -The University is, of course, declining much, -under this commercial wisdom of the magistrates.</p> - -<p>There are students, however, of many -nations and religions, no oaths being imposed, -except upon the professors. Physic -and botany especially are said to be cultivated -here with much success; and there is -a garden, to which not only individuals, but -the East India Company, industriously contribute -foreign plants. The salaries of the -professors, who receive, besides, fees from -the students, are nearly two hundred pounds -a-year. The government of the University -is in the Rector, who is chosen out of three -persons returned by the Senate to the States; -the Senate consists of the professors; and, -on extraordinary occasions, the Senate and -Rector are directed by Curators, who are the -agents for the States.</p> - -<p>The chief street in the town is of the -crescent form, so that, with more public -buildings, it would be a miniature resemblance -of High-street, Oxford. The town-house -is built with many spires, and with -almost Chinese lightness. We did not see -the interior of this, or, indeed, of any other -public buildings; for, in the morning, when -curiosity was to be indulged, our fastidiousness -as to the inns returned, and induced us -to take a passage for Haerlem. The MSS. -of the Dutch version of the Bible, which are -known to be deposited here, could not have -been shewn, being opened only once in -three years, when the Deputies of the Synod -and States attend; but we might have seen, -in the town-house, some curious testimonies -of the hardships and perseverance of the inhabitants, -during the celebrated blockade of -five months, in 1574, in consideration of -which the University was founded.</p> - -<p>After viewing some well-filled booksellers' -shops, and one wide street of magnificent -houses, we again made half the circuit of -this extensive city, in the way to the trechtschuyt -for</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="HAERLEM" id="HAERLEM">HAERLEM.</a></h3> - -<p>The canal between Leyden and this -place is nearly the pleasantest of the great -number, which connect all the towns of the -province with each other, and render them -to the traveller a series of spectacles, almost -as easily visited as the amusements of one -large metropolis. Though this is said to be -one of the lowest parts of Holland, the -country does not appear to have suffered -more than the rest by water. The many -country seats, which border the canals, are -also proofs that it is thought to be well secured; -yet this is the district, which has -been proved, by indisputable observations, -to be lower than the neighbouring sea, even -in the profoundest calm. During the voyage, -which was of four hours, we passed -under several bridges, and saw numbers of -smaller canals, crossing the country in various -directions; but the passage of a trechtschuyt -is not delayed for an instant by a -bridge, the tow-rope being loosened from -the boat, on one side, and immediately -caught again, on the other, if it should not -be delivered by some person, purposely stationed -on the arch. It is not often that a -canal makes any bend in its course; when -it does so, there are small, high posts at the -point, round which the tow-rope is drawn; -and, that the cord may not be destroyed by -the friction, the posts support perpendicular -rollers, which are turned by its motion. -Such posts and rollers might be advantageously -brought into use in England. On -most of the canals are half-way villages, -where passengers may stop, about five minutes, -for refreshment; but they will be left -behind, without any ceremony, if they exceed -the limited time, which the boatman -employs in exchanging letters for such of -the neighbouring country houses as have not -packet boxes placed on the banks.</p> - -<p>Haerlem, like Leyden, is fortified by brick -walls, but both seem to be without the solid -earthen works, that constitute the strength -of modern fortresses. A few pieces of cannon -are planted near the gate, in order to -command the bridge of a wide <i>fossé</i>; and -the gate-house itself is a stout building, deep -enough to render the passage underneath -somewhat dark. There is otherwise very -little appearance of the strength, that resisted -the Duke of Alva, for twelve months, -and exasperated his desire of vengeance so -far, that the murder of the inhabitants, who -at last surrendered to his promises of protection, -could alone appease it.</p> - -<p>A narrow street leads from the gate to -the market-place, where two pieces of cannon -are planted before the guard-house; -the first precaution against internal commotion, -which we had seen in the country. -Haerlem had a great share in the disputes -of 1787, and is said to adhere more fully -than any other city to the Anti-Stadtholderian -politics of that period.</p> - -<p>The market-place is very spacious, and -surrounds the great church, perhaps, the -largest sacred building in the province of -Holland. The lofty oak roof is marked with -dates of the early part of the sixteenth -century. The organ, sometimes said to be the -best in Europe, is of unusual size, but has -more power of sound than sweetness. The -pipes are silvered, and the body carefully -painted; for organs are the only objects in -Dutch churches, which are permitted to be -shewy. They are now building, in the great -church at Rotterdam, a rival to this instrument, -and need not despair of surpassing it.</p> - -<p>A great part of the congregation sit upon -chairs in the large aisle, which does not seem -to be thought a much inferior place to the -other parts. During an evening service, at -which we were present, this was nearly -filled; and while every person took a separate -seat, women carried <i>chauffepieds</i>, or little -wooden boxes, with pans of burning -peat in them, to the ladies. This was on -the 4th of June. The men enter the church -with their hats on, and some wear them, -during the whole service, with the most disgusting -and arrogant hardihood.</p> - -<p>We passed a night at Haerlem, which is -scarcely worth so long a stay, though one -street, formed upon the banks of a canal, -consists of houses more uniformly grand, -than any out of the Hague, and surprises -you with its extensive magnificence at a -place, where there is little other appearance -of wealth and none of splendour. But the -quietness of the Great in Holland is daily -astonishing to a stranger, who sometimes -passes through rows of palaces, without -meeting a carriage, or a servant. The inhabitants -of those palaces have, however, -not less earnest views, than they who are -more agitated; the difference between them -is, that the views of the former are only -such as their situation enables them to gratify, -without the agitation of the latter. They -can sit still and wait for the conclusion of -every year, at which they are to be richer, -or rather are to have much more money, -than in the preceding one. They know, -that, every day the silent progress of interest -adds so much to their principal; and they -are content to watch the course of time, for -it is time alone that varies their wealth, the -single object of their attention. There can -be no motive, but its truth, for repeating the -trite opinion of the influence of avarice in -Holland: we expected, perhaps, with some -vanity, to have found an opportunity for -contradicting it; but are able only to add -another testimony of its truth. The infatuation -of loving money not as a means, -but as an end, is paramount in the mind of -almost every Dutchman, whatever may be -his other dispositions and qualities; the addiction -to it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, -and universal from youth to the feeblest -old age.</p> - -<p>Haerlem has little trade, its communication -with the sea being through Amsterdam, -which latter place has always been able to -obstruct the reasonable scheme of cutting a -canal through the four miles of land, that -separate the former from the ocean. Its -manufactures of silk and thread are much -less prosperous than formerly. Yet there -are no symptoms of decay, or poverty, and -the environs are well covered with gardens -especially on the banks of the <i>Sparen</i>, of -which one branch flows through the town -and the other passes under the walls. Some -charitable institutions, for the instruction -and employment of children, should be -mentioned also, to assuage the general censure -of a too great fondness for money.</p> - -<p>The house of <span class="smallcaps">Laurance Coster</span>, who -is opposed to <span class="smallcaps">Faust</span>, <span class="smallcaps">Gottenburgh</span> and -<span class="smallcaps">Scheffer</span>, for the honour of having invented -the art of printing, is near the great -church and is still inhabited by a bookseller. -An inscription, not worth copying, asserts -him to be the inventor. The house, which -is small and stands in a row with others, -must have received its present brick front in -some time subsequent to that of <span class="smallcaps">Coster</span>.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="AMSTERDAM" id="AMSTERDAM">AMSTERDAM.</a></h3> - -<p>The voyage between Haerlem and -this place is less pleasant, with respect to -the country, than many of the other trips, -but more gratifying to curiosity. For great -part of the way, the canal passes between -the lake, called <i>Haerlemer Maer</i>, and a large -branch of the <i>Zuyder Zee</i>, called the River -Y. In one place, the neck of land, which -separates these two waters, is so thin, that a -canal cannot be drawn through it; and, -near this, there is a village, where passengers -leave their first boat, another waiting for -them at the renewal of the canal, within a -quarter of a mile. Here, as upon other -occasions of the same sort, nearly as much is -paid for the carriage of two or three trunks -between the boats, as for the whole voyage; -and there is an <i>Ordonnatie</i> to authorize the -price; for the Magistrates have considered, -that those, who have much baggage, are -probably foreigners, and may be thus made -to support many of the natives. The -Dutch themselves put their linen into a velvet -bag, called a <i>Rysack</i>, and for this accordingly -no charge is made.</p> - -<p>The <i>Half Wegen Sluice</i> is the name of -this separation between two vast waters, -both of which have gained considerably -upon their shores, and, if united, would be -irresistible. At the narrowest part, it consists -pile-work and masonry, to the thickness -of probably forty feet. On this spot the -spectator has, on his left hand, the Y, -which, though called a river, is an immense -inundation of the Zuyder Zee, and would -probably carry a small vessel, without interruption, -into the German ocean. On the -other hand, is the Haerlem lake, about -twelve miles long and nine broad, on -which, during the siege of Haerlem, the -Dutch and Spaniards maintained fleets, and -fought battles. Extending as far as Leyden, -there is a passage upon it from that -city to Amsterdam, much shorter than by -the canal, but held to be dangerous. Before -the year 1657, there was, however, no -other way, and it was probably the loss of -the Prince of Bohemia and the danger of -his dethroned father upon the lake, that instigated -the making of the canal.</p> - -<p>This sluice is one of several valuable -posts, by which Amsterdam may be defended -against a powerful army, and was an -important station, during the approach of -the Duke of <span class="smallcaps">Brunswick</span> in 1787, when -this city was the last, which surrendered. -All the roads being formed upon dikes, or -embankments, may be defended by batteries, -which can be attacked only by narrow -columns and in front. The Half Wegen -Sluice was, however, easily taken by the -Duke of <span class="smallcaps">Brunswick</span>, his opponents having -neglected to place gun-boats on the Haerlem -lake, over which he carried eight hundred -men in thirty boats, and surprised the -Dutch before day-break, on the morning of -the first of October. This was one of his -real assaults, but there were all together eleven -made on that day, and, on the next, -the city proposed to surrender.</p> - -<p>Beyond the sluice, the canal passes several -breaches, made by inundations of the Y, -and not capable of being drained, or repaired. -In these places the canal is separated -from the inundations either by piles, or -floating planks. None of the breaches were -made within the memory of the present -generation, yet the boatmen have learned to -speak of them with horror.</p> - -<p>There is nothing magnificent, or grand, -in the approach to Amsterdam, or the -prospect of the city. The sails of above an hundred -windmills, moving on all sides, seem -more conspicuous than the public buildings -of this celebrated capital.</p> - -<p>The trechtschuyt having stopped on the -outside of the gate, we waited for one of -the public coaches, which are always to be -had by sending to a livery stable, but do not -stand in the street for fares. It cost half-a-crown -for a drive of about two miles into -the city; the regulated price is a guilder, -or twenty-pence. Our direction was to the -<i>Doolen</i>; but the driver chose to take us to -another inn, in the same street, which we -did not discover to be otherwise called, till -we had become satisfied with it.</p> - -<p>Nearly all the chief thorough-fares of -Amsterdam are narrow, but the carriages are -neither so numerous as in other places of -the same size, nor suffered to be driven with -the same speed; so that, though there is no -raised pavement, foot passengers are as safe -as elsewhere. There are broad terraces to -the streets over the two chief canals, but -these are sometimes encumbered by workshops, -placed immediately over the water, -between which and the houses the owners -maintain an intercourse of packages and -planks, with very little care about the freedom -of the passage. This, indeed, may be -constantly observed of the Dutch: they will -never, either in their societies, or their business, -employ their time, for a moment, in -gratifying the little malice, or shewing the -little envy, or assuming the little triumphs, -which fill so much of life with unnecessary -miseries; but they will seldom step one -inch out of their way, or surrender one moment -of their time, to save those, whom -they do not know, from any inconvenience. -A Dutchman, throwing cheeses into his -warehouse, or drawing iron along the path-way, -will not stop, while a lady, or an infirm -person passes, unless he perceives -somebody inclined to protect them; a warehouseman -trundling a cask, or a woman in -the favourite occupation of throwing water -upon her windows, will leave it entirely -to the passengers to take care of their limbs, -or their clothes.</p> - -<p>The canals themselves, which are the ornaments -of other Dutch cities, are, for the -most part, the nuisances of Amsterdam. -Many of them are entirely stagnant, and, -though deep, are so laden with filth, that, -on a hot day, the feculence seems pestilential. -Our windows opened upon two, but -the scent very soon made us willing to relinquish -the prospect. The bottoms are so -muddy, that a boat-hook, drawn up, perhaps, -through twelve feet of water, leaves a -circle of slime at the top, which is not lost -for many minutes. It is not unusual to see -boats, laden with this mud, passing during -mid-day, under the windows of the most -opulent traders; and the fetid cargoes never -disturb the intense studies of the counting-houses -within.</p> - -<p>After this distaste of the streets and canals -of Amsterdam, it was a sort of duty to see, -what is the glory of the city, the interior -of the Stadthouse; but we lost this spectacle, -by a negligence of that severe punctuality, -in which the Dutch might be usefully -imitated throughout the world. Our -friends had obtained for us a ticket of admission -at ten; we called upon them about -half an hour afterwards; but, as the ride -from their house would have required ten -minutes more, the time of this ticket was -thought to be elapsed. We would not accept -one, which was offered to be obtained -for another day, being unwilling to render -it possible, that those, who were loading us -with the sincerest civilities, should witness -another apparent instance of inattention.</p> - -<p>The Stadthouse, as to its exterior, is a -plain stone building, attracting attention -chiefly from its length, solidity and height. -The front is an hundred and eight paces -long. It has no large gate, but several small -ones, and few statues, that would be observed, -except one of Atlas on the top. -The tales, as to the expence of the building, -are inexhaustible. The foundation alone, -which is entirely of piles, is said to -have cost a million of guilders, or nearly -ninety thousand pounds, and the whole edifice -treble that sum. Its contents, the stock -of the celebrated Bank, are estimated at -various amounts, of which we will not repeat -the lowest.</p> - -<p>The Exchange is an humble building, -and not convenient of access. The Post -Office is well situated, upon a broad terrace, -near the Stadthouse, and seems to be properly -laid out for its use.</p> - -<p>None of the churches are conspicuous for -their structure; but the regulation, with -respect to their ministers, should be more -known. Two are assigned to each, and -all throughout the city have equal and respectable -salaries.</p> - -<p>At a distance from the Exchange are -some magnificent streets, raised on the banks -of canals, nearly equalling those of the -Hague for the grandeur of houses, and -much exceeding in length the best of Leyden -and Haerlem. These are the streets, -which must give a stranger an opinion of -the wealth of the city, while the Port, and -that alone, can display the extensiveness of -its commerce. The shops and the preparations -for traffic in the interior have a -mean appearance to those, who try them -by the standard of London conveniences -and elegance.</p> - -<p>The best method of seeing the Port is to -pass down it in a boat to some of the -many towns, that skirt the Zuyder Zee. -One convenience, easy to be had every -where, is immediately visible from the -quays. Small platforms of planks supported -by piles project from the shore between the -vessels, which are disposed with their heads -towards the sides of these little bridges; -the furthest has thus a communication with -the quay, and, if the cargo is not of very -heavy articles, may be unladen at the same -time with the others. The port is so wide, -that, though both sides are thronged with -shipping, the channel in the middle is, at -least, as broad as the Thames at London -Bridge; but the harbour does not extend to -more than half the length of the <i>Pool</i> at -London, and seems to contain about half -the number of vessels. The form of the -port is, however, much more advantageous -for a display of shipping, which may be -here seen nearly at one glance in a fine bay -of the <i>Zuyder</i>.</p> - -<p>After a sail of about an hour, we landed -at Saardam, a village celebrated for the -Dockyards, which supply Amsterdam with -nearly all its fleets. A short channel carries -vessels of the greatest burthen from Saardam -to the Zuyder Zee, which the founders of -the place took care not to approach too -nearly; and the terrace at the end of this -channel is prepared for the reception of -cannon, that must easily defend it from any -attack by sea. Though the neighbourhood -of a dockyard might be supposed a sufficient -antidote to cleanliness, the neatness of -this little town renders it a spectacle even -to the Dutch themselves. The streets are -so carefully swept, that a piece of orange -peel would be noticed upon the pavement, -and the houses are washed and painted to -the highest polish of nicety. Those, who -are here in a morning, or at night, may -probably see how many dirty operations are -endured for the sake of this excessive cleanliness.</p> - -<p>We were shewn nearly round the place, -and, of course, to the cottage, in which the -indefatigable Peter the First of Russia resided, -when he was a workman in the dockyard. -It is a tenement of two rooms, -standing in a part of the village, so very -mean, that the alleys near it are not cleaner, -than those of other places. An old woman -lives in the cottage, and subsists chiefly by -shewing it to visitors, amongst whom have -been the present Grand Duke and Duchess -of Russia; for the Court of Petersburgh -acknowledge it to have been the residence -of Peter, and have struck a medal in commemoration -of so truly honourable a palace. -The old woman has received one of these -medals from the present Empress, together -with a grant of a small annuity to encourage -her care of the cottage.</p> - -<p>We passed an agreeable afternoon, at an -inn on the terrace, from whence pleasure -vessels and passage boats were continually -departing for Amsterdam, and had a smart -sail, on our return, during a cloudy and -somewhat a stormy sunset. The approach -to Amsterdam, on this side, is as grand as -that from Haerlem is mean, half the circuit -of the city, and all its spires, being visible at -once over the crowded harbour. The great -church of Haerlem is also seen at a small -distance, on the right. The Amstel, a wide -river, which flows through the city into the -harbour, fills nearly all the canals, and is -itself capable of receiving ships of considerable -burthen: one of the bridges over it, and -a terrace beyond, are among the few pleasant -walks enjoyed by the inhabitants. The -Admiralty, an immense building, in the interior -of which is the dockyard, stands on -this terrace, or quay; and the East India -Company have their magazine here, instead -of the interior of the city, where it would -be benevolence to let its perfume counteract -the noxiousness of the canals.</p> - -<p>The government of Amsterdam is said to -collect by taxes, rents and dues of various -sorts, more than an English million and a -half annually; and, though a great part of -this sum is afterwards paid to the use of the -whole Republic, the power of collecting -and distributing it must give considerable -consequence to the magistrates. The Senate, -which has this power, consists of -thirty-six members, who retain their seats -during life, and were formerly chosen by -the whole body of burghers; but, about -two centuries ago, this privilege was surrendered -to the Senate itself, who have ever -since filled up the vacancies in their number -by a majority of their own voices. The -<i>Echevins</i>, who form the court of justice, -are here chosen by the burghers out of a -double number, nominated by the Senate: -in the other cities, the Stadtholder, and not -the burghers, makes this choice.</p> - -<p>It is obvious, that when the City Senates, -which return the Provincial States, and, -through them, the States General, were -themselves elected by the burghers, the -legislature of the United Provinces had a -character entirely representative; and, at -present, a respect for public opinion is said -to have considerable influence in directing -the choice of the Senates.</p> - -<p>The province of Holland, of which this -city is the most important part, is supposed -to contain 800,000 persons, who pay taxes -to the amount of twenty-four millions of -guilders, or two millions sterling, forming -an average of two pounds ten shillings per -person. In estimating the real taxation of -a people, it is, however, necessary to consider -the proportion of their consumption to -their imports; for the duties, advanced upon -imported articles, are not ultimately and -finally paid till these are consumed. The -frugal habits of the Dutch permit them to -retain but a small part of the expensive -commodities, which they collect; and the -foreigners, to whom they are resold, pay, -therefore, a large share of the taxation, -which would be so enormous, if it was confined -to the inhabitants. Among the taxes, -really paid by themselves, are the following;—a land-tax -of about four shillings and nine -pence per acre; a sale-tax of eight per cent. -upon horses, one and a quarter per cent. -upon other moveables, and two and an half -per cent. upon land and buildings; a tax -upon inheritances out of the direct line, -varying from two and an half to eleven per -cent.; two per cent. upon every man's income; -an excise of three pounds per hogshead -upon wine, and a charge of two per -cent. upon all public offices. The latter -tax is not quite so popular here as in other -countries, because many of these offices are -actually purchased, the holders being compelled -to buy stock to a certain amount, and -to destroy the obligations. The excise upon -coffee, tea and salt is paid annually by -each family, according to the number of -their servants.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Amsterdam, and some -other cities, pay also a tax, in proportion to -their property, for the maintenance of companies -of city-guards, which are under the -orders of their own magistrates. In Amsterdam, -indeed, taxation is somewhat higher -than in other places. Sir William Temple -was assured, that no less than thirty -duties might be reckoned to have been paid -there, before a certain dish could be placed -upon a table at a tavern.</p> - -<p>The exact sums, paid by the several -provinces towards every hundred thousand -guilders, raised for the general use, have -been often printed. The share of Holland -is 58,309 guilders and a fraction; that of -Overyssel, which is the smallest, 3571 guilders -and a fraction.</p> - -<p>Of five colleges of Admiralty, established -within the United Provinces, three are in -Holland, and contribute of course to point -out the pre-eminence of that province. It -is remarkable, that neither of these supply -their ships with provisions: They allow the -captains to deduct about four-pence halfpenny -per day from the pay of each sailor -for that purpose; a regulation, which is -never made injurious to the seamen by any -improper parsimony, and is sometimes useful -to the public, in a country where pressing -is not permitted. A captain, who has -acquired a character for generosity amongst -the sailors, can muster crew in a few days, -which, without such a temptation, could -not be raised in as many weeks.</p> - -<p>We cannot speak with exactness of the -prices of provisions in this province, but -they are generally said to be as high as in -England. The charges at inns are the same -as on the roads within an hundred miles of -London, or, perhaps, something more. Port -wine is not so common as a wine which -they call Claret, but which is compounded -of a strong red wine from Valencia, mixed -with some from Bourdeaux. The general -price for this is twenty pence English a -bottle; three and four pence is the price -for a much better sort. About half-a-crown -per day is charged for each apartment; -and <i>logement</i> is always the first article in -a bill.</p> - -<p>Private families buy good claret at the -rate of about eighteen pence per bottle, -and chocolate for two shillings per pound. -Beef is sold for much less than in England, -but is so poor that the Dutch use it chiefly -for soup, and salt even that which they -roast. Good white sugar is eighteen pence -per pound. Bread is dearer than in England; -and there is a sort, called milk bread, -of uncommon whiteness, which costs nearly -twice as much as our ordinary loaves. -Herbs and fruits are much lower priced, -and worse in flavour; but their colour and -size are not inferior. Fish is cheaper than -in our maritime counties, those excepted -which are at a great distance from the metropolis. -Coffee is very cheap, and is more -used than tea. No kind of meat is so good -as in England; but veal is not much inferior, -and is often dressed as plainly and as -well as with us. The innkeepers have a -notion of mutton and lamb chops; but -then it is <i>à la Maintenon</i>; and the rank oil -of the paper is not a very delightful sauce. -Butter is usually brought to table <i>clarified</i>, -that is, purposely melted into an <i>oil</i>; and -it is difficult to make them understand that -it may be otherwise.</p> - -<p>The Dutch have much more respect for -English than for other travellers; but there -is a jealousy, with respect to our commerce, -which is avowed by those, who have -been tutored to calm discussion, and may -be perceived in the conversation of others, -whenever the state of the two countries is -noticed. This jealousy is greater in the -maritime than in the other provinces, and -in Amsterdam than in some of the other cities. -Rotterdam has so much direct intercourse -with England, as to feel, in some -degree, a share in its interests.</p> - -<p>Some of our excursions round Amsterdam -were made in a curious vehicle; the -body of a coach placed upon a sledge, and -drawn by one horse. The driver walks by -the side, with the reins in one hand, and -in the other a wetted rope, which he sometimes -throws under the sledge to prevent it -from taking fire, and to fill up the little -gaps in the pavement. The appearance of -these things was so whimsical, that curiosity -tempted us to embark in one; and, finding -them laughed at by none but ourselves, the -convenience of being upon a level with the -shops, and with the faces that seemed to -contain the history of the shops, induced us -to use them again. There are great numbers -of them, being encouraged by the magistrates, -in preference to wheel carriages, -and, as is said, in tenderness to the piled -foundations of the city, the only one in -Holland in which they are used. The price -is eight pence for any distance within the -city, and eight pence an hour for attendance.</p> - -<p>Near Amsterdam is the small village of -Ouderkirk, a place of some importance in -the short campaign of 1787, being accessible -by four roads, all of which were then fortified. -It consists chiefly of the country -houses of Amsterdam merchants, at one of -which we passed a pleasant day. Having -been but slightly defended, after the loss of -the posts of <i>Half Wegen</i> and <i>Amstelveen</i>, it -was not much injured by the Prussians; but -there are many traces of balls thrown into -it. The ride to it from Amsterdam is upon -the chearful banks of the Amstel, which is -bordered, for more than five miles, with -gardens of better verdure and richer groves -than had hitherto appeared. The village -was spread with booths for a fair, though -it was Sunday; and we were somewhat -surprised to observe, that a people in general -so gravely decorous as the Dutch, should -not pay a stricter deference to the Sabbath. -We here took leave of some friends, whose -frank manners and obliging dispositions are -remembered with much more delight than -any other circumstances, relative to Amsterdam.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="UTRECHT" id="UTRECHT">UTRECHT.</a></h3> - -<p>The passage from Amsterdam hither -is of eight hours; and, notwithstanding the -pleasantness of trechtschuyt conveyance, -seemed somewhat tedious, after the habit of -passing from city to city in half that time. -The canal is, however, justly preferred to -others, on account of the richness of its -surrounding scenery; and it is pleasing to -observe how gradually the country improves, -as the distance from the province of Holland -and from the sea increases. Towards -Utrecht, the gardens rise from the banks of -the canal, instead of spreading below its -level, and the grounds maintain avenues and -plantations of lofty trees. Vegetation is -stronger and more copious; shrubs rise to a -greater height; meadows display a livelier -green; and the lattice-work of the bowery -avenues, which occur so frequently, ceases -to be more conspicuous than the foliage.</p> - -<p>It was Whitsuntide, and the banks of -the canal were gay with holiday people, -riding in waggons and carts; the latter frequently -carrying a woman wearing a painted -hat as large as an umbrella, and a man -with one in whimsical contrast clipped nearly -close to the crown. The lady -sometimes refreshed herself with a fan, and the -gentleman, meanwhile, with a pipe of tobacco. -Every village we passed resounded -with hoarse music and the clatter of wooden -shoes: among these the prettiest was <i>Nieuversluys</i>, -bordering each side of the canal, -with a white drawbridge picturesquely -shadowed with high trees, and green banks -sloping to the water's brim. Pleasure-boats -and trechtschuyts lined the shores; and the -windows of every house were thronged with -broad faces. On the little terraces below -were groups of smokers, and of girls in the -neat trim Dutch dress, with the fair complexion -and air of decorous modesty, by -which their country-women are distinguished.</p> - -<p>About half way from Amsterdam stands -a small modern fortification; and it is an -instance of Dutch carefulness, that grass had -just been mowed even from the parapets of -the batteries, and was made up in heaps -within the works. Not far from it is an -ancient castle of one tower, left in the state -to which it was reduced during the contest -with the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>Near Utrecht, the ground has improved -so much, that nothing but its evenness distinguishes -it from other countries; and, at -some distance eastward, the hills of Guelderland -rise to destroy this last difference. -The entrance into the city is between high -terraces, from which steps descend to the -canal; but the street is not wide enough to -have its appearance improved by this sort -of approach. Warehouses, formed under -the terraces, shew also that the latter have -been raised more for convenience than -splendour.</p> - -<p>The steeple of the great church, formerly -a cathedral, excites, in the mean time, an -expectation of dignity in the interior, where -some considerable streets and another canal -complete the air of an opulent city. It is -not immediately seen, that a great part of the -body of this cathedral has been destroyed, -and that the canals, being subject to tides, -have dirty walls during the ebb. The -splendour, which might be expected in the -capital of a province much inhabited by nobility, -does not appear; nor is there, perhaps, -any street equal to the best of Leyden -and Haerlem; yet, in general beauty, the -city is superior to either of these.</p> - -<p>We arrived just before nine, at which -hour a bell rings to denote the shutting of -the larger gates; for the rules of a walled -town are observed here, though the fortifications -could be of little other use than to -prevent a surprise by horse. The <i>Chateau -d'Anvers</i>, at which we lodged, is an excellent -inn, with a landlord, who tells, that he -has walked sixty years in his own passage, -and that he had the honour of entertaining -the Marquis of Granby thirteen times, -during the war of 1756. Though the Dutch -inns are generally unobjectionable, there is -an air of English completeness about this -which the others do not reach.</p> - -<p>Utrecht is an university, but with as little -appearance of such an institution as Leyden. -The students have no academical dress; -and their halls, which are used only for lectures -and exercises, are formed in the cloisters -of the ancient cathedral. The chief -sign of their residence in the place is, that -the householders, who have lodgings to let, -write upon a board, as is done at Leyden, -<i>Cubicula locanda</i>. We were shewn round -the town by a member of the university, -who carefully avoided the halls; and we did -not press to see them.</p> - -<p>There are still some traces remaining of -the Bishopric, which was once so powerful, -as to excite the jealousy, or rather, perhaps, -to tempt the avarice of Charles the Fifth, -who seized upon many of its possessions. -The use made of the remainder by the -States General, is scarcely more justifiable; -for the prebends still subsist, and are disposed -of by sale to Lay Canons, who send -delegates to the Provincial States, as if they -had ecclesiastical characters.</p> - -<p>The substantial remains of the Cathedral -are one aisle, in which divine service is -performed, and a lofty, magnificent Gothic -tower, that stands apart from it. The ascent -of this tower is one of the tasks prescribed -to strangers, and, laborious as it is, the view -from the summit sufficiently rewards them. -A stone staircase, steep, narrow, and winding, -after passing several grated doors, leads -into a floor, which you hope is at the top, -but which is little more than half way up. -Here the family of the belfryman fill several -decently furnished apartments, and shew the -great bell, with several others, the noise of -which, it might be supposed, no human ears -could bear, as they must, at the distance of -only three, or four yards. After resting a -few minutes in a room, the windows of -which command, perhaps, a more extensive -land view than any other inhabited apartment -in Europe, you begin the second ascent -by a staircase still narrower and steeper, -and, when you seem to be so weary as to -be incapable of another step, half the horizon -suddenly bursts upon the view, and all -your meditated complaints are overborne by -expressions of admiration.</p> - -<p>Towards the west, the prospect, after including -the rich plain of gardens near -Utrecht, extends over the province of Holland, -intersected with water, speckled with -towns, and finally bounded by the sea, the -mists of which hide the low shores from the -sight. To the northward, the Zuyder Zee -spreads its haziness over Amsterdam and -Naerden; but from thence to the east, the -spires of Amersfoort, Rhenen, Arnheim, -Nimeguen and many intermediate towns, -are seen amongst the woods and hills, that -gradually rise towards Germany. South-ward, -the more mountainous district of -Cleves and then the level parts of Guelderland -and Holland, with the windings of the -Waal and the Leck, in which the Rhine -loses itself, complete a circle of probably -more than sixty miles diameter, that strains -the sight from this tremendous steeple. The -almost perpendicular view into the streets -of Utrecht affords afterwards some relief to -the eye, but increases any notions of danger, -you may have had from observing, -that the open work Gothic parapet, which -alone prevents you from falling with dizziness, -has suffered something in the general -decay of the church.</p> - -<p>While we were at the top, the bells -struck; and, between the giddiness communicated -by the eye, and the stunning effect -of a sound that seemed to shake the steeple, -we were compelled to conclude sooner than -had been intended this comprehensive and -farewell prospect of Holland.</p> - -<p>The Mall, which is esteemed the chief -ornament of Utrecht, is, perhaps, the only -avenue of the sort in Europe, still fit to be -used for the game that gives its name to -them all. The several rows of noble trees -include, at the sides, roads and walks; but -the centre is laid out for the game of <i>Mall</i>, -and, though not often used, is in perfect -preservation. It is divided so as to admit -of two parties of players at once, and the -side-boards sufficiently restrain spectators. -The Mall in St. James's Park was kept in -the same state, till 1752, when the present -great walk was formed over the part, which -was separated by similar side-boards. The -length of that at Utrecht is nearly three -quarters of a mile. The luxuriance and -loftiness of the trees preserve a perspective -much superior to that of St. James's, but in -the latter the whole breadth of the walks is -greater, and the view is more extensive, as -well as more ornamented.</p> - -<p>This city, being a sort of capital to the -neighbouring nobility, is called the politest -in the United Provinces, and certainly abounds, -more than the others, with the professions -and trades, which are subservient to -splendour. One practice, observed in some -degree, in all the cities, is most frequent -here; that of bows paid to all parties, in -which there are ladies, by every gentleman -who passes. There are, however, no plays, -or other public amusements; and the festivities, -or ceremonies, by which other nations -commemorate the happier events in their -history, are as unusual here as in the other -parts of the United Provinces, where there -are more occasions to celebrate and fewer -celebrations than in most European countries. -Music is very little cultivated in any -of the cities, and plays are to be seen only -at Amsterdam and the Hague, where German -and Dutch pieces are acted upon alternate -nights. At Amsterdam, a French -Opera-house has been shut up, and, at the -Hague, a <i>Comédie</i>, and the actors ordered -to leave the country.</p> - -<p>The ramparts of the city, which are high -and command extensive prospects, are rather -emblems of the peacefulness, which it -has long enjoyed, than signs of any effectual -resistance, prepared for an enemy. -They are in many places regularly planted -with trees, which must be old enough to -have been spared, together with the Mall, -by Louis the Fourteenth; in others, pleasure -houses, instead of batteries, have been -raised upon them. A few pieces of old -cannon are planted for the purpose of saluting -the Prince of <span class="smallcaps">Orange</span>, when he passes -the city.</p> - -<p>Trechtschuyts go no further eastward -than this place, so that we hired a -voiturier's carriage, a sort of curricle with a driver's -box in front, for the journey to Nimeguen. -The price for thirty-eight, or -thirty-nine miles, was something more than -a guinea and a half; the horses were worth -probably sixty pounds upon the spot, and -were as able as they were showy, or they -could not have drawn us through the deep -sands, that cover one third of the road.</p> - -<p>We were now speedily quitting almost -every thing, that is generally characteristic -of Dutch land. The pastures were intermixed -with fields of prosperous corn; the -best houses were surrounded by high woods, -and the grounds were separated by hedges, -instead of water, where any sort of partition -was used. Windmills were seldom seen, and -those only for corn. But these improvements -in the appearance of the country -were accompanied by many symptoms of -a diminished prosperity among the people. -In eight-and-thirty miles there was not one -considerable town; a space, which, in the -province of Holland, would probably have -included three opulent cities, several extensive -villages, and ranges of mansions, erected -by merchants and manufacturers.</p> - -<p><i>Wyk de Duerstede</i>, the first town in the -road, is distinguishable at some distance, by -the shattered tower of its church, a monument -of the desolation, spread by the -Spaniards. The inhabitants, probably intending, -that it should remain as a lesson -to posterity, have not attempted to restore -it, further than to place some stones over -the part filled by the clock. The body of -the church and the remainder of the tower -are not deficient of Gothic dignity. The -town itself consists of one, or two wide -streets, not well filled either with inhabitants, -or houses.</p> - -<p>The road here turns to the eastward and -is led along the right bank of the Leck, -one of the branches of the Rhine, upon a -raised mound, or dique, sometimes twenty, -or thirty feet, above the river on the one -side, and the plains, on the other. Small -posts, each numbered, are placed along this -road, at unequal distances, for no other use, -which we could discover, than to enable -the surveyors to report exactly where the -mound may want repairs. The carriage -way is formed of a deep sand, which we -were very glad to leave, by crossing the river -at a ferry; though this road had given us a -fine view of its course and of some stately -vessels, pressing against the stream, on their -voyage to Germany.</p> - -<p>On the other side, the road went further -from the river, though we continued to skirt -it occasionally as far as a small ferry-house, -opposite to Rhenen, at which we dined, -while the horses rested under a shed, built -over the road, as weigh-houses are at our -turnpikes. Rhenen is a walled town, built -upon an ascent from the water, and appears -to have two, or three neat streets.</p> - -<p>Having dined in a room, where a table, -large enough for twenty persons, was placed, -on one side, and a line of four, or five beds, -covered by one long curtain, was formed -against the wainscot, on the other, the -voiturier clamoured, that the gates of Nimeguen -would be shut before we could get to -them, and we soon began to cross the country -between the Leck and the Waal, another -branch of the Rhine, which, in Guelderland, -divides itself into so many channels, -that none can be allowed the pre-eminence -of retaining its name. Soon after reaching -the right bank of the Waal, the road affords -a view of the distant towers of Nimeguen, -which appear there to be very important, -standing upon a brow, that seems to front -the whole stream of the river. In the way, -we passed several noble estates, with -mansions, built in the castellated form, which -James the First introduced into England, -instead of the more fortified residences; and -there was a sufficient grandeur of woods -and avenues, to shew, that there might be -parks, if the owners had the taste to form -them. Between the avenues, the gilded ornaments -of the roof, and the peaked coverings, -placed, in summer, over the chimneys, -glittered to the light, and shewed the fantastic -style of the architecture, so exactly -copied in Flemish landscapes of the sixteenth -and seventeenth centuries.</p> - -<p>As the sun declined and we drew near -Nimeguen, the various colouring of a scene -more rich than extensive rendered its effect -highly interesting. The wide Waal on our -left, reflecting the evening blush, and a vessel -whose full sails caught a yellow gleam -from the west; the ramparts and pointed -roofs of Nimeguen rising over each other, -just tinted by the vapour that ascended from -the bay below; the faint and fainter blue of -two ridges of hills in Germany retiring in -the distance, with the mellow green of -nearer woods and meadows, formed a combination -of hues surprisingly gay and beautiful. -But Nimeguen lost much of its dignity -on a nearer approach; for many of -the towers, which the treachery of fancy -had painted at distance, changed into forms -less picturesque; and its situation, which a -bold sweep of the Waal had represented to -be on a rising peninsula crowning the flood, -was found to be only on a steep beside it. -The ramparts, however, the high old tower -of the citadel, the Belvidere, with the southern -gate of the town beneath, composed -part of an interesting picture on the opposite -margin of the river. But there was -very little time to observe it: the driver saw -the flying bridge, making its last voyage, -for the night, towards our shore, and likely -to return in about twenty minutes; he, -therefore, drove furiously along the high -bank of the river, and, turning the angle -of the two roads with a velocity, which -would have done honour to a Brentford -postillion, entered that adjoining the first -half of the bridge, and shewed the directors -of the other half, that we were to be -part of their cargo.</p> - -<p>This bridge, which is partly laid over -boats and partly over two barges, that float -from the boats to the shore, is so divided, -because the stream is occasionally too rapid -to permit an entire range of boats between -the two banks. It is thus, for one half, a -bridge of boats, and, for the other, a flying -bridge; which last part is capable of containing -several carriages, and joins to the -other so exactly as not to occasion the least -interruption. It is also railed for the safety -of foot passengers, of whom there are commonly -twenty, or thirty. The price for a -carriage is something about twenty-pence, -which the tollmen carefully collect as soon -as the demi-bridge has begun its voyage.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="NIMEGUEN" id="NIMEGUEN">NIMEGUEN</a></h3> - -<p>Has, towards the water, little other -fortification than an ancient brick wall, and -a gate. Though it is a garrison town, and -certainly no trifling object, we were not -detained at the gate by troublesome ceremonies. -The commander, affecting no unnecessary -carefulness, is satisfied with a copy -of the report, which the innkeepers, in all -the towns, send to the Magistrates, of the -names and conditions of their guests. A -printed paper is usually brought up, after -supper, in which you are asked to write -your name, addition, residence, how long -you intend to stay, and to whom you are -known in the province. We did not shew -a passport in Holland.</p> - -<p>The town has an abrupt but short elevation -from the river, which you ascend by a -narrow but clean street, opening into a spacious -market-place. The great church and -the guard-house are on one side of this; -from the other, a street runs to the eastern -gate of the town, formed in the old wall, -beyond which commence the modern and -strong fortifications, that defend it, on the -land side. At the eastern extremity of the -place, a small mall leads to the house, in -which the Prince of Orange resided, during -the troubles of 1786; and, beyond it, on a -sudden promontory towards the river, stands -a prospect house, called the Belvidere, -which, from its eastern and southern windows, -commands a long view into Germany, -and to the north looks over Guelderland. -From this place all the fortifications, -which are very extensive, are plainly seen, -and a military person might estimate their -strength. There are several forts and -outworks, and, though the ditch is pallisadoed -instead of filled, the place must be capable -of a considerable defence, unless the besieging -army should be masters of the river and -the opposite bank. There was formerly a -fortress upon this bank, which was often -won and lost, during the sieges of Nimeguen, -but no remains of it are visible now.</p> - -<p>The town is classic ground to those, who -venerate the efforts, by which the provinces -were rescued from the dominion of the -Spaniards. It was first attempted by <span class="smallcaps">Sengius</span>, -a Commander in the Earl of <span class="smallcaps">Leicester's</span> -army, who proposed to enter it, -at night, from the river, through a house, -which was to be opened to him; but his -troops by mistake entered another, where a -large company was collected, on occasion -of a wedding, and, being thus discovered to -the garrison, great numbers of those, already -landed upon the beach, were put to -the sword, or drowned in the confusion of -the retreat. An attempt by Prince Maurice -to surprise it was defeated by the failure of -a <i>petard</i>, applied to one of the gates; but it -was soon after taken by a regular siege, carried -on chiefly from the other side of the -river. This and the neighbouring fortress -of Grave were among the places, first taken -by Louis the Fourteenth, during his invasion, -having been left without sufficient -garrisons.</p> - -<p>The citadel, a remnant of the antient -fortifications, is near the eastern gate, which -appears to be thought stronger than the -others, for, on this side, also is the arsenal.</p> - -<p>Nimeguen has been compared to Nottingham, -which it resembles more in situation -than in structure, though many of the -streets are steep, and the windows of one -range of houses sometimes overlook the -chimnies of another; the views also, as from -some parts of Nottingham, are over a green -and extensive level, rising into distant hills; -and here the comparison ends. The houses -are built entirely in the Dutch fashion, with -many coloured, painted fronts, terminating -in peaked roofs; but some decline of neatness -may be observed by those who arrive -here from the province of Holland. The -market-place, though gay and large, cannot -be compared with that of Nottingham, in -extent, nor is the town more than half the -size of the latter, though it is said to contain -nearly fifty thousand inhabitants. From -almost every part of it you have, however, -a glimpse of the surrounding landscape, -which is more extensive than that seen from -Nottingham, and is adorned by the sweeps -of a river of much greater dignity than the -Trent.</p> - -<p>We left Nimeguen, in the afternoon, -with a voiturier, whose price, according -to the <i>ordonnatie</i>, was higher than if we -had set out half an hour sooner, upon the -supposition that he could not return that -night. The road lies through part of the -fortifications, concerning which there can, -of course, be no secrecy. It then enters an -extensive plain, and runs almost parallel to -a range of heights, at the extremity of -which Nimeguen stands, and presents an -appearance of still greater strength and importance -than when seen from the westward.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<p>After a few miles, this road leaves the -territories of the United Provinces, and -enters the Prussian duchy of Cleves, at a -spot where a mill is in one country, and -the miller's house in the other. An instance -of difference between the conditions -of the people in the two countries was observable -even at this passage of their boundary. -Our postillion bought, at the miller's, -a loaf of black bread, such as is not -made in the Dutch provinces, and carried -it away for the food of his horses, which -were thus initiated into some of the blessings -of the German peasantry. After another -quarter of a mile you have more proofs that -you have entered the country of the King -of Prussia. From almost every cluster of huts -barefooted children run out to beg, and ten -or a dozen stand at every gate, nearly throwing -themselves under the wheels to catch -your money, which, every now and then, -the bigger seize from the less.</p> - -<p>Yet the land is not ill-cultivated. The -distinction between the culture of land in -free and arbitrary countries, was, indeed, -never very apparent to us, who should have -been ready enough to perceive it. The -great landholders know what should be -done, and the peasantry are directed to do -it. The latter are, perhaps, supplied with -stock, and the grounds produce as much as -elsewhere, though you may read, in the -looks and manners of the people, that very -little of its productions is for them.</p> - -<p>Approaching nearer to Cleves, we travelled -on a ridge of heights, and were once -more cheared with the "pomp of groves." -Between the branches were delightful catches -of extensive landscapes, varied with hills -clothed to their summits with wood, where -frequently the distant spires of a town peeped -out most picturesquely. The open vales -between were chiefly spread with corn; -and such a prospect of undulating ground, -and of hills tufted with the grandeur of -forests, was inexpressibly chearing to eyes -fatigued by the long view of level countries.</p> - -<p>At a few miles from Cleves the road enters -the Park and a close avenue of noble -plane-trees, when these prospects are, for a -while, excluded. The first opening is -where, on one hand, a second avenue commences, -and, on the other, a sort of broad -bay in the woods, which were planted by -Prince Maurice, includes an handsome house -now converted into an inn, which, owing -to the pleasantness of the situation, and its -vicinity to a mineral spring, is much frequented -in summer. A statue of General -Martin Schenck, of dark bronze, in complete -armour, and with the beaver down, -is raised upon a lofty Ionic column, in the -centre of the avenue, before the house. -Resting upon a lance, the figure seems to -look down upon the passenger, and to -watch over the scene, with the sternness of -an ancient knight. It appears to be formed -with remarkable skill, and has an air more -striking and grand than can be readily described.</p> - -<p>The <i>orangerie</i> of the palace is still preserved, -together with a semi-circular pavilion, -in a recess of the woods, through -which an avenue of two miles leads you to</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="X-CLEVES" id="X-CLEVES">CLEVES.</a></h3> - -<p>This place, which, being the capital -of a duchy, is entitled a City, consists of -some irregular streets, built upon the brow -of a steep hill. It is walled, but cannot be -mentioned as fortified, having no solid -works. The houses are chiefly built of -stone, and there is a little of Dutch cleanliness; -but the marks of decay are strongly -impressed upon them, and on the ancient -walls. What little trade there is, exists in -retailing goods sent from Holland. The -Dutch language and coins are in circulation -here, almost as much as the German.</p> - -<p>The established religion of the town is -Protestant; but here is an almost universal -toleration, and the Catholics have several -churches and monasteries. Cleves has suffered -a various fate in the sport of war -during many centuries, but has now little -to distinguish it except the beauty of its -prospects, which extend into Guelderland -and the province of Holland, over a country -enriched with woody hills and vallies of -corn and pasturage.</p> - -<p>Being convinced, in two or three hours, -that there was nothing to require a longer -stay, we set out for Xanten, a town in the -same duchy, distant about eighteen miles. -For nearly the whole of this length the -road lay through a broad avenue, which -frequently entered a forest of oak, fir, elm, -and majestic plane-trees, and emerged from -it only to wind along its skirts. The views -then opened over a country, diversified with -gentle hills, and ornamented by numberless -spires upon the heights, every small -town having several convents. The castle -of Eltenberg, on the summit of a wooded -mountain, was visible during the whole of -this stage and part of the next day's -journey. Yet the fewness, or the poverty, of -the inhabitants appeared from our meeting -only one chaise, and two or three small carts, -for eighteen miles of the only high-road -in the country.</p> - -<p>It was a fine evening in June, and the -rich lights, thrown among the forest glades, -with the solitary calmness of the scene, and -the sereneness of the air, filled with scents -from the woods, were circumstances which -persuaded to such tranquil rapture as Collins -must have felt when he had the happiness -to address to Evening—</p> - -<div class="poem"> -<p class="noindent"> -For when thy folding star, arising, shews<br /> -His paly circlet, at his warning lamp,<br /> -The fragrant hours and elves<br /> -Who slept in buds the day:<br /> -<br /> -And many a nymph, who wreaths her brows with sedge,<br /> -And sheds the fresh'ning dew, and, lovelier still,<br /> -The pensive pleasures sweet<br /> -Prepare thy shadowy car.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<p>A small half-way village, a stately convent, -with its gardens, called Marienbaum, -founded in the 15th century by Maria, -Duchess of Cleves, and a few mud cottages -of the woodcutters, were the only -buildings on the road: the foot passengers -were two Prussian soldiers. It was moonlight, -and we became impatient to reach -Xanten, long before our driver could say, -in a mixture of German and Dutch, that -we were near it. At length from the -woods, that had concealed the town, a few -lights appeared over the walls, and dissipated -some gloomy fancies about a night to -be passed in a forest.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="XANTEN" id="XANTEN">XANTEN.</a></h3> - -<p>This is a small town, near the -Rhine, without much appearance of prosperity, -but neater than most of the others -around it. Several narrow streets open into -a wide and pleasant market-place, in the -centre of which an old but flourishing elm -has its branches carefully extended by a -circular railing, to form an arbour over -benches. A cathedral, that proves the town -to have been once more considerable, is on -the north side of this place; a fine building, -which, shewn by the moon of a summer -midnight, when only the bell of the adjoining -convent calling the monks to prayers, -and the waving of the aged tree, were -to be heard, presented a scene before the -windows of our inn, that fully recompensed -for its want of accommodation.</p> - -<p>There were also humbler reasons towards -contentment; for the people of the house -were extremely desirous to afford it; and -the landlord was an orator in French, of -which and his address he was pleasantly -vain. He received us with an air of humour, -mingled with his complaisance, and -hoped, that, "as <i>Monsieur</i> was <i>Anglois</i>, he -should surprise him with his <i>vin extraordinaire</i>, -all the Rhenish wine being adulterated -by the Dutch, before they sent it to -England. His house could not be fine, because -he had little money; but he had an -excellent cook, otherwise it could not be -expected that the prebendaries of the cathedral -would dine at it, every day, and become, -as they were, <i>vraiment, Monsieur, -gros comme vous me voyez!</i>"</p> - -<p>There are in this small town several monasteries -and one convent of noble canonesses, -of which last the members are few, -and the revenues very great. The interior -of the cathedral is nearly as grand as the -outside; and mass is performed in it with -more solemnity than in many, which have -larger institutions.</p> - -<p>We left Xanten, the next morning, in -high spirits, expecting to reach Cologne, -which was little more than fifty miles distant, -before night, though the landlord and -the postmaster hinted, that we should go no -further than Neuss. This was our first use -of the German post, the slowness of which, -though it has been so often described, we -had not estimated. The day was intensely -hot, and the road, unsheltered by trees, lay -over deep sands, that reflected the rays. -The refreshing forests of yesterday we now -severely regretted, and watched impatiently -to catch a freer air from the summit of -every hill on the way. The postillion -would permit his horses to do little more -than walk, and every step threw up heaps -of dust into the chaise. It had been so often -said by travellers, that money has as little -effect in such cases as intreaties, or threats, -that we supposed this slowness irremediable, -which was really intended only to produce -an offer of what we would willingly have -given.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="RHEINBERG" id="RHEINBERG">RHEINBERG.</a></h3> - -<p>In something more than three hours, -we reached Rheinberg, distant about nine -miles; a place often mentioned in the military -history of the sixteenth and seventeenth -centuries, and which we had supposed would -at least gratify us by the shew of magnificent -ruins, together with some remains of -its former importance. It is a wretched -place of one dirty street, and three or four -hundred mean houses, surrounded by a decayed -wall that never was grand, and half -filled by inhabitants, whose indolence, while -it is probably more to be pitied than blamed, -accounts for the sullenness and wretchedness -of their appearance. Not one symptom -of labour, or comfort, was to be perceived -in the whole town. The men seemed, -for the most part, to be standing at their -doors, in unbuckled shoes and woollen caps. -What few women we saw were brown, -without the appearance of health, which -their leanness and dirtiness prevented. Some -small shops of hucksters' wares were the -only signs of trade.</p> - -<p>The inn, that seemed to be the best, was -such as might be expected in a remote village, -in a cross road in England. The landlord -was standing before the door in his -cap, and remained there some time after we -had found the way into a sitting room, and -from thence, for want of attendance, into -a kitchen; where two women, without -stockings, were watching over some sort of -cookery in earthen jugs. We were supplied, -at length, with bread, butter and sour wine, -and did not suffer ourselves to consider this -as any specimen of German towns, because -Rheinberg was not a station of the post; -a delusion, the spirit of which continued -through several weeks, for we were always -finding reasons to believe, that the wretchedness -of present places and persons was -produced by some circumstances, which -would not operate in other districts.</p> - -<p>This is the condition of a town, which, -in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, -was thought important enough to be five -times attacked by large armies. <span class="smallcaps">Farnese</span>, -the Spanish commander, was diverted from -his attempt upon it, by the necessity of relieving -Zutphen, then besieged by the Earl -of Leicester: in 1589, the Marquis of Varambon -invested it, for the Spaniards, by -order of the Prince of Parma; but it was -relieved by our Colonel Vere, who, after a -long battle, completely defeated the Spanish -army. In 1599, when it was attacked by -Mendoza, a magazine caught fire. The -governor, his family, and a part of the garrison -were buried in the ruins of a tower, -and the explosion sunk several vessels in the -Rhine; after which, the remainder of the -garrison surrendered the place. The Prince -of Orange retook it in 1633. Four years -afterwards, the Spaniards attempted to surprise -it in the night; but the Deputy -Governor and others, who perceived that -the garrison could not be immediately collected, -passed the walls, and, pretending to -be deserters, mingled with the enemy, whom -they persuaded to delay the attack for a few -minutes. The troops within were in the -mean time prepared for their defence, and -succeeded in it; but the Governor, with -two officers and fifteen soldiers who had -accompanied him, being discovered, were -killed. All these contests were for a place -not belonging to either party, being in the -electorate of Cologne, but which was valuable -to both, for its neighbourhood to -their frontiers.</p> - -<p>Beyond Rheinberg, our prospects were -extensive, but not so woody, or so rich as -those of the day before, and few villages -enlivened the landscape. Open corn lands, -intermixed with fields of turnips, spread to -a considerable distance, on both sides; on -the east, the high ridges of the Westphalian -mountains shut up the scene. The Rhine, -which frequently swept near the road, -shewed a broad surface, though shrunk -within its sandy shores by the dryness of -the season. Not a single vessel animated its -current, which was here tame and smooth, -though often interrupted by sands, that rose -above its level.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="HOOGSTRASS" id="HOOGSTRASS">HOOGSTRASS.</a></h3> - -<p>The next town was Hoogstrass, a -post station, fifteen miles from Xanten, of -which we saw little more than the inn, the -other part of this small place being out of -the road. A large house, which might -have been easily made convenient, and was -really not without plenty, confirmed our -notion, that, at the post stages, there would -always be some accommodation. We dined -here, and were well attended. The landlord, -a young man who had served in the -army of the country, and appeared by his -dress to have gained some promotion, was -very industrious in the house, during this -interval of his other employments.</p> - -<p>The next stage was of eighteen miles, -which make a German post and an half; -and, during this space, we passed by only -one town, Ordingen, or Urdingen, the -greatest part of which spread between the -road and the Rhine.</p> - -<p>Towards evening, the country became -more woody, and the slender spires of convents -frequently appeared, sheltered in their -groves and surrounded by corn lands of -their own domain. One of these, nearer to -the road, was a noble mansion, and, with -its courts, offices and gardens, spread over -a considerable space. A summer-house, built -over the garden wall, had no windows towards -the road, but there were several small -apertures, which looked upon it and beyond -to a large tract of inclosed wood, the property -of the convent.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="NEUSS" id="NEUSS">NEUSS.</a></h3> - -<p>Soon after sun-set, we came to Neuss, -which, as it is a post town, and was mentioned -as far off as Xanten, we had been -sure would afford a comfortable lodging, -whether there were any vestiges, or not, of -its ancient and modern history. The view -of it, at some little distance, did not altogether -contradict this notion, for it stands upon -a gentle ascent, and the spires of several -convents might justly give ideas of a considerable -town to those, who had not learned -how slightly such symptoms are to be attended -to in Germany.</p> - -<p>On each side of the gate, cannon balls -of various sizes remain in the walls. Within, -you enter immediately into a close street -of high, but dirty stone houses, from which -you expect to escape presently, supposing it -to be only some wretched quarter, appropriated -to disease and misfortune. You see -no passengers, but, at the door of every -house, an haggard group of men and women -stare upon you with looks of hungry -rage, rather than curiosity, and their gaunt -figures excite, at first, more fear than pity. -Continuing to look for the better quarter, -and to pass between houses, that seem to -have been left after a siege and never entered -since, the other gate of the town at -length appears, which you would rather -pass at midnight than stop at any place yet -perceived. Within a small distance of the -gate, there is, however, a house with a wider -front, and windows of unshattered glass and -walls not quite as black as the others, which -is known to be the inn only because the -driver stops there, for, according to the -etiquette of sullenness in Germany, the people -of the house make no shew of receiving -you.</p> - -<p>If it had not already appeared, that there -was no other inn, you might learn it from -the manners of the two hostesses and their -servants. Some sort of accommodation is, -however, to be had; and those, who have -been longer from the civilities and assiduities -of similar places in England, may, by more -submission and more patience, obtain it -sooner than we did. By these means they -may reduce all their difficulties into one, -that of determining whether the windows -shall be open or shut; whether they will -endure the closeness of the rooms, or will -admit air, loaded with the feculence of putrid -kennels, that stagnate along the whole -town.</p> - -<p>This is the <i>Novesium</i> of Tacitus, the entrance -of the thirteenth legion into which -he relates, at a time when the Rhine, <i>incognita -illi cœlo siccitate</i>, became <i>vix navium -patiens</i>, and which <span class="smallcaps">Vocula</span> was soon after -compelled to surrender by the treachery of -other leaders and the corruption of his -army, whom he addressed, just before his -murder, in the fine speech, beginning, -"<i>Nunquam apud vos verba feci, aut pro -vobis solicitior, aut pro me securior</i>"; a passage -so near to the <i>cunctisque timentem, securumque -sui</i>, by which <span class="smallcaps">Lucan</span> describes <span class="smallcaps">Cato</span>, -that it must be supposed to have been inspired -by it.</p> - -<p>This place stood a siege, for twelve -months, against 60,000 men, commanded -by <span class="smallcaps">Charles</span> the <span class="smallcaps">Bold</span>, Duke of Burgundy, -and succeeded in its resistance. But, in -1586, when it held out for <span class="smallcaps">Gebhert de -Trusches</span>, an Elector of Cologne, expelled -by his Chapter, for having married, it -was the scene of a dreadful calamity. <span class="smallcaps">Farnese</span>, -the Spanish General, who had just -taken Venlo, marched against it with an -army, enraged at having lost the plunder of -that place by a capitulation. When the inhabitants -of Neuss were upon the point of -surrendering it, upon similar terms, the -army, resolving not to lose another prey of -blood and gold, rushed to the assault, set -fire to the place, and murdered all the inhabitants, -except a few women and children, -who took refuge in two churches, -which alone were saved from the flames.</p> - -<p>When the first shock of the surprise, -indignation and pity, excited by the mention -of such events, is overcome, we are, -of course, anxious to ascertain whether the -perpetrators of them were previously distinguished -by a voluntary entrance into situations, -that could be supposed to mark their -characters. This was the army of Philip -the Second. The soldiers were probably, -for the most part, forced into the service. -The officers, of whom only two are related -to have opposed the massacre, could not -have been so.</p> - -<p>What was then the previous distinction of -the officers of Philip the Second? But -it is not proper to enter into a discussion -here of the nature of their employment.</p> - -<p>Neuss was rebuilt, on the same spot; the -situation being convenient for an intercourse -with the eastern shore of the Rhine, especially -with Dusseldorff, to which it is nearly -opposite. The ancient walls were partly -restored by the French, in 1602. One of -the churches, spared by the Spaniards, was -founded by a daughter of <span class="smallcaps">Charlemagne</span>, -in the ninth century, and is now attached -to the Chapter of Noble Ladies of St. Quirin; -besides which there are a Chapter -of Canons, and five or six convents in the -place.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="COLOGNE" id="COLOGNE">COLOGNE.</a></h3> - -<p>From Neuss hither we passed -through a deep, sandy road, that sometimes -wound near the Rhine, the shores of which -were yet low and the water tame and -shallow. There were no vessels upon it, -to give one ideas either of the commerce, -or the population of its banks.</p> - -<p>The country, for the greater part of -twenty miles, was a flat of corn lands; -but, within a short distance of Cologne, a -gentle rise affords a view of the whole -city, whose numerous towers and steeples -had before appeared, and of the extensive -plains, that spread round it. In the -southern perspective of these, at the distance -of about eight leagues, rise the fantastic -forms of what are called the Seven -Mountains; westward, are the cultivated -hills, that extend towards Flanders; and, -eastward, over the Rhine, the distant mountains, -that run through several countries of -interior Germany. Over the wild and gigantic -features of the Seven Mountains dark -thunder mists soon spread an awful obscurity, -and heightened the expectation, which -this glimpse of them had awakened, concerning -the scenery we were approaching.</p> - -<p>The appearance of Cologne, at the distance -of one, or two miles, is not inferior to -the conception, which a traveller may have -already formed of one of the capitals of -Germany, should his mind have obeyed that -almost universal illusion of fancy, which -dresses up the images of places unseen, as -soon as much expectation, or attention is -directed towards them. The air above is -crowded with the towers and spires of -churches and convents, among which the -cathedral, with its huge, unfinished mass, -has a striking appearance. The walls are -also high enough to be observed, and their -whole inclosure seems, at a distance, to be -thickly filled with buildings.</p> - -<p>We should have known ourselves to be -in the neighbourhood of some place larger -than usual, from the sight of two, or three -carriages, at once, on the road; nearly the -first we had seen in Germany. There is -besides some shew of labour in the adjoining -villages; but the sallow countenances -and miserable air of the people prove, that -it is not a labour beneficial to them. The -houses are only the desolated homes of these -villagers; for there is not one that can be -supposed to belong to any prosperous inhabitant -of the city, or to afford the coveted -stillness, in which the active find an occasional -reward, and the idle a perpetual -misery.</p> - -<p>A bridge over a dry fossé leads to the -northern gate, on each side of which a small -modern battery defends the ancient walls. -The city is not fortified, according to any -present sense of the term, but is surrounded -by these walls and by a ditch, of which the -latter, near the northern gate, serves as a -sort of kitchen garden to the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Before passing the inner gate, a soldier -demanded our names, and we shewed our -passport, for the first time; but, as the inquisitor -did not understand French, in -which language passports from England are -written, it was handed to his comrades, who -formed a circle about our chaise, and began, -with leaden looks, to spell over the paper. -Some talked, in the mean time, of examining -the baggage; and the money, which -we gave to prevent this, being in various -pieces and in Prussian coin, which is not -perfectly understood here, the whole party -turned from the passport, counting and estimating -the money in the hand of their collector, -as openly as if it had been a legal -tribute. When this was done and they -had heard, with surprise, that we had not -determined where to lodge, being inclined -to take the pleasantest inn, we wrote our -names in the corporal's dirty book, and -were allowed to drive, under a dark tower, -into the city.</p> - -<p>Instantly, the narrow street, gloomy -houses, stagnant kennels and wretchedly -looking people reminded us of the horrors -of Neuss. The lower windows of these prison-like -houses are so strongly barricadoed, -that we had supposed the first two, or three, -to be really parts of a gaol; but it soon appeared, -that this profusion of heavy iron -work was intended to exclude, not to confine, -robbers. A succession of narrow streets, -in which the largest houses were not less -disgusting than the others for the filthiness -of their windows, doorways and massy walls, -continued through half the city. In one of -these streets, or lanes, the postillion stopped -at the door of an inn, which he said was -the best; but the suffocating air of the street -rendered it unnecessary to enquire, whether, -contrary to appearances, there could be any -accommodation within, and, as we had read -of many squares, or market-places, he was -desired to stop at an inn, situated in one of -these. Thus we came to the Hotel de -Prague, a large straggling building, said to -be not worse than the others, for wanting -half its furniture, and probably superior to -them, by having a landlord of better than -German civility.</p> - -<p>Having counted from our windows the -spires of ten, or twelve churches, or convents, -we were at leisure to walk farther -into the city, and to look for the spacious -squares, neat streets, noble public buildings -and handsome houses, which there could be -no doubt must be found in an Imperial and -Electoral city, seated on the Rhine, at a -point where the chief roads from Holland -and Flanders join those of Germany, treated -by all writers as a considerable place, and -evidently by its situation capable of becoming -a sort of <i>emporium</i> for the three -countries. The spot, into which our inn -opened, though a parallelogram of considerable -extent, bordered by lime trees, we -passed quickly through, perceiving, that the -houses on all its sides were mean buildings, -and therefore such as could not deserve the -attention in the Imperial and Electoral city -of Cologne. There are streets from each -angle of this place, and we pursued them all -in their turn, narrow, winding and dirty as -they are, pestilent with kennels, gloomy -from the height and blackness of the houses, -unadorned by any public buildings, except -the churches, that were grand, or by one -private dwelling, that appeared to be clean, -with little shew of traffic and less of passengers, -either busy, or gay, till we saw them -ending in other streets still worse, or concluded -by the gates of the city. One of them, -indeed, led through a market-place, in -which the air is free from the feculence of -the streets, but which is inferior to the -other opening in space, and not better surrounded -by buildings.</p> - -<p>"These diminutive observations seem to -take away something from the dignity of -writing, and therefore are never communicated, -but with hesitation, and a little fear -of abasement and contempt."<a href="#fn2"><span class="small"><sup>2</sup></span></a><a name="fn2r" id="fn2r"></a> And it is -not only because they take away something -from the dignity of writing, that such observations -are withheld. To be thought -capable of commanding more pleasures and -preventing more inconveniences than others -is a too general passport to respect; and, -in the ordinary affairs of life, for one, that -will shew somewhat less prosperity than he -has, in order to try who will really respect -him, thousands exert themselves to assume -an appearance of more, which they might -know can procure only the mockery of -esteem for themselves, and the reality of it -for their supposed conditions. Authors are -not always free from a willingness to receive -the fallacious sort of respect, that attaches to -accidental circumstances, for the real sort, -of which it would be more reasonable to be -proud. A man, relating part of the history -of his life, which is always necessarily done -by a writer of travels, does not choose to -shew that his course could lie through any -scenes deficient of delights; or that, if it -did, he was not enough elevated by his -friends, importance, fortune, fame, or business, -to be incapable of observing them minutely. -The curiosities of cabinets and of -courts are, therefore, exactly described, and -as much of every occurrence as does not -shew the relater moving in any of the -plainer walks of life; but the difference between -the stock of physical comforts in -different countries, the character of conditions, -if the phrase may be used, such as it -appears in the ordinary circumstances of residence, -dress, food, cleanliness, opportunities -of relaxation; in short, the information, -which all may gain, is sometimes left -to be gained by all, not from the book, but -from travel. A writer, issuing into the -world, makes up what he mistakes for his -best appearance, and is continually telling -his happiness, or shewing his good-humour, -as people in a promenade always smile, -and always look round to observe whether -they are seen smiling. The politest salutation -of the Chinese, when they meet, is, -"Sir, prosperity is painted on your countenance;" -or, "your whole air announces -your felicity;" and the writers of travels, -especially since the censure thrown upon -<span class="smallcaps">Smollet</span>, seem to provide, that their prosperity -shall be painted on their volumes, -and all their observations announce their -felicity.</p> - -<p><a href="#fn2r">2</a><a name="fn2" id="fn2"></a> Dr. Samuel Johnson.</p> - -<p>Cologne, though it bears the name of the -Electorate, by which it is surrounded, is an -imperial city; and the Elector, as to temporal -affairs, has very little jurisdiction -within it. The government has an affectation -of being formed upon the model of -Republican Rome; a form certainly not -worthy of imitation, but which is as much -disgraced by this burlesque of it, as ancient -statues are by the gilding and the wigs, -with which they are said to be sometimes -arrayed by modern hands. There is a senate -of forty-nine persons, who, being returned -at different times of the year, are -partly nominated by the remaining members, -and partly chosen by twenty-two tribes -of burgesses, or rather by so many companies -of traders. Of six burgomasters, -two are in office every third year, and, -when these appear in public, they are preceded -by <span class="smallcaps">Lictors</span>, bearing <i>fasces</i>, sur-mounted -by their <i>own arms</i>! Each of the -tribes, or companies, has a President, and -the twenty-two Presidents form a Council, -which is authorised to enquire into the conduct -of the Senate: but the humbleness of -the burgesses in their individual condition -has virtually abolished all this scheme of a -political constitution. Without some of the -intelligence and personal independence, -which are but little consistent with the general -poverty and indolence of German -traders, nothing but the forms of any constitution -can be preserved, long after the -virtual destruction of it has been meditated -by those in a better condition. The greater -part of these companies of traders having, -in fact, no trade which can place them -much above the rank of menial servants -to their rich customers, the design, that -their Council shall check the Senate, and -the Senate direct the Burgomasters, has -now, of course, little effect. And this, or -a still humbler condition, is that of several -cities in Germany, called free and independent, -in which the neighbouring sovereigns -have scarcely less authority, though with -something more of circumstance, than in -their own dominions.</p> - -<p>The constitution of Cologne permits, indeed, -some direct interference of the -Elector; for the Tribunal of Appeal, which is -the supreme court of law, is nominated by -him: he has otherwise no direct power -within the city; and, being forbidden to -reside there more than three days successively, -he does not even retain a palace, -but is contented with a suite of apartments, -reserved for his use at an inn. That this -exclusion is no punishment, those, who -have ever passed two days at Cologne, will -admit; and it can tend very little to lessen -his influence, for the greatest part of his -personal expenditure must reach the merchants -of the place; and the officers of several -of his territorial jurisdictions make -part of the inhabitants. His residences, -with which he is remarkably well provided, -are at Bonn; at Bruhl, a palace between -Cologne and that place; at Poppelsdorff, -which is beyond it; at Herzogs Freud, an -hunting seat; and in Munster, of which he -is the Bishop.</p> - -<p>The duties of customs and excise are -imposed by the magistrates of the city, and -these enable them to pay their contributions -to the Germanic fund; for, though such -cities are formally independent of the neighbouring -princes and nobility, they are not -so of the general laws or expences of the -empire, in the Diet of which they have -some small share, forty-nine cities being allowed -to send two representatives, and thus -to have two votes out of an hundred and -thirty-six. These duties, of both sorts, are -very high at Cologne; and the first form a -considerable part of the interruptions, which -all the States upon the Rhine give to the -commerce of that river. Here also commodities, -intended to be carried beyond the -city by water, must be re-shipped; for, in -order to provide cargoes for the boatmen of -the place, vessels from the lower parts of -the Rhine are not allowed to ascend beyond -Cologne, and those from the higher parts -cannot descend it farther. They may, indeed, -reload with other cargoes for their -return; and, as they constantly do so, the -Cologne boatmen are not much benefited by -the regulation; but the transfer of the -goods employs some hands, subjects them -better to the inspection of the customhouse -officers, and makes it necessary for the merchants -of places, on both sides, trading with -each other, to have intermediate correspondents -here. Yet, notwithstanding all this -aggression upon the freedom of trade, Cologne -is less considerable as a port, than -some Dutch towns, never mentioned in a -book, and is inferior, perhaps, to half the -minor seaports in England. We could not -find more than thirty vessels of burthen -against the quay, all mean and ill-built, except -the Dutch, which are very large, and, -being constructed purposely for a tedious navigation, -contain apartments upon the deck -for the family of the skipper, well furnished, -and so commodious as to have four or five -sashed windows on each side, generally gay -with flower-pots. Little flower-gardens, too, -sometimes formed upon the roof of the -cabin, increase the domestic comforts of the -skipper; and the neatness of his vessel can, -perhaps, be equalled only by that of a -Dutch house. In a time of perfect peace, -there is no doubt more traffic; but, from -what we saw of the general means and occasions -of commerce in Germany, we cannot -suppose it to be much reduced by war. -Wealthy and commercial countries may be -injured immensely by making war either -for Germany or against it; by too much -friendship or too much enmity; but Germany -itself cannot be proportionately injured -with them, except when it is the -scene of actual violence. Englishmen, who -feel, as they always must, the love of their -own country much increased by the view -of others, should be induced, at every step, -to wish, that there may be as little political -intercourse as possible, either of friendship -or enmity, between the blessings of their -Island and the wretchedness of the Continent.</p> - -<p>Our inn had formerly been a convent, -and was in a part of the town where such -societies are more numerous than elsewhere. -At five o'clock, on the Sunday after -our arrival, the bells of churches and -convents began to sound on all sides, and -there was scarcely any entire intermission -of them till evening. The places of public -amusement, chiefly a sort of tea-gardens, -were then set open, and, in many streets, -the sound of music and dancing was heard -almost as plainly as that of the bells had -been before; a disgusting excess of licentiousness, -which appeared in other instances, -for we heard, at the same time, the voices -of a choir on one side of the street, and the -noise of a billiard table on the other. Near -the inn, this contrast was more observable. -While the strains of revelry arose from an -adjoining garden, into which our windows -opened, a pause in the music allowed us to -catch some notes of the vesper service, performing -in a convent of the order of Clarisse, -only three or four doors beyond. Of -the severe rules of this society we had been -told in the morning. The members take a -vow, not only to renounce the world, but -their dearest friends, and are never after -permitted to see even their fathers or mothers, -though they may sometimes converse -with the latter from behind a curtain. And, -lest some lingering remains of filial affection -should tempt an unhappy nun to lift the -veil of separation between herself and her -mother, she is not allowed to speak even -with her, but in the presence of the abbess. -Accounts of such horrible perversions of -human reason make the blood thrill and the -teeth chatter. Their fathers they can never -speak to, for no man is suffered to be in -any part of the convent used by the sisterhood, -nor, indeed, is admitted beyond the -gate, except when there is a necessity for -repairs, when all the votaries of the order -are previously secluded. It is not easily, -that a cautious mind becomes convinced of -the existence of such severe orders; when -it does, astonishment at the artificial miseries, -which the ingenuity of human beings -forms for themselves by seclusion, is as -boundless as at the other miseries, with -which the most trivial vanity and envy so -frequently pollute the intercourses of social -life. The poor nuns, thus nearly entombed -during their lives, are, after death, tied upon -a board, in the clothes they die in, and, -with only their veils thrown over the face, -are buried in the garden of the convent.</p> - -<p>During this day, Trinity Sunday, processions -were passing on all sides, most of -them attended by some sort of martial -music. Many of the parishes, of which -there are nineteen, paraded with their officers; -and the burgesses, who are distributed -into eight corps, under a supposition that -they could and would defend the city, if it -was attacked, presented their captains at the -churches. The host accompanied all these -processions. A party of the city guards followed, -and forty or fifty persons out of -uniform, the representatives probably of the -burgesses, who are about six thousand, succeeded. -Besides the guards, there was only -one man in uniform, who, in the burlesque -dress of a drum-major, entertained the populace -by a kind of extravagant marching -dance, in the middle of the procession. Our -companion would not tell us that this was -the captain.</p> - -<p>The cathedral, though unfinished, is -conspicuous, amongst a great number of -churches, for the dignity of some detached -features, that shew part of the vast design -formed for the whole. It was begun, in -1248, by the Elector Conrad, who is related, -in an hexameter inscription over a -gate, to have laid the first stone himself. -In 1320, the choir was finished, and the -workmen continued to be employed upon -the other parts in 1499, when of two -towers, destined to be 580 feet above the -roof, one had risen 21 feet, and the other -150 feet, according to the measurement -mentioned in a printed description. We -did not learn at what period the design of -completing the edifice was abandoned; but -the original founder lived to see all the -treasures expended, which he had collected -for the purpose. In its present state, the -inequality of its vast towers renders it a -striking object at a considerable distance; -and, from the large unfilled area around it, -the magnificence of its Gothic architecture, -especially of some parts, which have not -been joined to the rest, and appear to be the -ruined remains, rather than the commencement -of a work, is viewed with awful delight.</p> - -<p>In the interior of the cathedral, a fine -choir leads to an altar of black marble, -raised above several steps, which, being free -from the incongruous ornaments usual in -Romish churches, is left to impress the -mind by its majestic plainness. The tall -painted windows above, of which there are -six, are superior in richness of colouring and -design to any we ever saw; beyond even -those in the Chapter-house at York, and -most resembling the very fine ones in the -cathedral of Canterbury. The nave is deformed -by a low wooden roof, which appears -to have been intended only as a temporary -covering, and should certainly be -succeeded by one of equal dignity to the -vast columns placed for its support, whether -the other parts of the original design -can ever be completed or not.</p> - -<p>By some accident we did not see the -tomb of the three kings of Jerusalem, whose -bodies are affirmed to have been brought -here from Milan in 1162, when the latter -city was destroyed by the Emperor Frederic -Barbarossa. Their boasted treasures of golden -crowns and diamonds pass, of course, without -our estimation.</p> - -<p>A description of the churches in Cologne, -set out with good antiquarian minuteness, -would fill volumes. The whole number of -churches, chapters and chapels, which last -are by far the most numerous, is not less -than eighty, and none are without an history -of two or three centuries. They are -all opened on Sundays; and we can believe, -that the city may contain, as is asserted, -40,000 souls, for nearly all that we -saw were well attended. In one, indeed, -the congregation consisted only of two or -three females, kneeling at a great distance -from the altar, with an appearance of the -utmost intentness upon the service, and abstraction -from the noise of the processions, -that could be easily heard within. They -were entirely covered with a loose black -drapery; whether for penance, or not, we -did not hear. In the cathedral, a figure in -the same attitude was rendered more interesting -by her situation beneath the broken -arches and shattered fret-work of a painted -window, through which the rays of the sun -scarcely penetrated to break the shade she -had chosen.</p> - -<p>Several of the chapels are not much -larger than an ordinary apartment, but they -are higher, that the nuns of some adjoining -convent may have a gallery, where, -veiled from observation by a lawn curtain, -their voices often mingle sweetly with -the choir. There are thirty-nine convents -of women and nineteen of men, which are -supposed to contain about fifteen hundred -persons. The chapters, of which some are -noble and extremely opulent, support nearly -four hundred more; and there are said -to be, upon the whole, between two and -three thousand persons, under religious denominations, -in Cologne. Walls of convents -and their gardens appear in every -street, but do not attract notice, unless, as -frequently happens, their bell sounds while -you are passing. Some of their female inhabitants -may be seen in various parts of -the city, for there is an order, the members -of which are employed, by rotation, in -teaching children and attending the sick. -Those of the noble chapters are little more -confined than if they were with their own -families, being permitted to visit their -friends, to appear at balls and promenades, -to wear what dresses they please, except -when they chaunt in the choir, and to -quit the chapter, if the offer of an acceptable -marriage induces their families to authorise -it; but their own admission into the -chapter proves them to be noble by sixteen -quarterings, or four generations, and the -offer must be from a person of equal rank, -or their descendants could not be received -into similar chapters; an important circumstance -in the affairs of the German noblesse.</p> - -<p>Some of these ladies we saw in the church -of their convent. Their habits were remarkably -graceful; robes of lawn and black -silk flowed from the shoulder, whence a -quilled ruff, somewhat resembling that of -Queen Elizabeth's time, spread round the -neck. The hair was in curls, without powder, -and in the English fashion. Their -voices were peculiarly sweet, and they sung -the responses with a kind of plaintive tenderness, -that was extremely interesting.</p> - -<p>The Jesuits' church is one of the grandest -in Cologne, and has the greatest display -of paintings over its numerous altars, as -well as of marble pillars. The churches of -the chapters are, for the most part, very -large, and endowed with the richest ornaments, -which are, however, not shewn to -the public, except upon days of fête. We -do not remember to have seen that of the -chapter of St. Ursula, where heads and other -relics are said to be handed to you from -shelves, like books in a library; nor that of -the convent of Jacobins, where some MSS. -and other effects of Albert the Great, bishop -of Ratisbon, are among the treasures of -the monks.</p> - -<p>Opposite to the Jesuits' church was an -hospital for wounded soldiers, several of -whom were walking in the court yard -before it, half-clothed in dirty woollen, -through which the bare arms of many appeared. -Sickness and neglect had subdued -all the symptoms of a soldier; and it was -impossible to distinguish the wounded French -from the others, though we were assured -that several of that nation were in the -crowd. The windows of the hospital were -filled with figures still more wretched. -There was a large assemblage of spectators, -who looked as if they were astonished to -see, that war is compounded of something -else, besides the glories, of which it is so -easy to be informed.</p> - -<p>The soldiery of Cologne are under the -command of the magistrates, and are employed -only within the gates of the city. -The whole body does not exceed an hundred -and fifty, whom we saw reviewed by -their colonel, in the place before the Hotel -de Prague. The uniform is red, faced with -white. The men wear whiskers, and affect -an air of ferocity, but appear to be mostly -invalids, who have grown old in their -guard-houses.</p> - -<p>Protestants, though protected in their -persons, are not allowed the exercise of -their religion within the walls of the city, -but have a chapel in a village on the other -side of the Rhine. As some of the chief -merchants, and those who are most useful -to the inhabitants, are of the reformed -church, they ventured lately to request that -they might have a place of worship within -the city; but they received the common answer, -which opposes all sort of improvement, -religious or civil, that, though the -privilege in itself might be justly required, -it could not be granted, because they would -then think of asking something more.</p> - -<p>The government of Cologne in ecclesiastical -affairs is with the Elector, as archbishop, -and the Chapter as his council. In -civil matters, though the city constitution is -of little effect, the real power is not so constantly -with him as might be supposed; -those, who have influence, being sometimes -out of his interest. Conversation, as we -were told, was scarcely less free than in -Holland, where there is justly no opposition -to any opinion, however improper, or absurd, -except from the reason of those, who -hear it. On that account, and because of its -easy intercourse with Brussels and Spa, this -city is somewhat the resort of strangers, by -whom such conversation is, perhaps, chiefly -carried on; but those must come from very -wretched countries who can find pleasure in -a residence at Cologne.</p> - -<p>Amongst the public buildings must be -reckoned the Theatre, of which we did not -see the inside, there being no performance, -during our stay, except on Sunday. This, -it seems, may be opened, without offence -to the Magistrates, though a protestant -church may not. It stands in a row of -small houses, from which it is distinguished -only by a painted front, once tawdry and -now dirty, with the inscription, "<i>Musis -Gratiisque decentibus</i>." The Town-house is -an awkward and irregular stone building. -The arsenal, which is in one of the narrowest -streets, we should have passed, without -notice, if it had not been pointed out to -us. As a building, it is nothing more than -such as might be formed out of four or -five of the plainest houses laid into one. -Its contents are said to be chiefly antient -arms, of various fashions and sizes, not very -proper for modern use.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="BONN" id="BONN">BONN.</a></h3> - -<p>After a stay of nearly three tedious -days, we left Cologne for Bonn, passing -through an avenue of limes, which extends -from one place to the other, without -interruption, except where there is a small -half way village. The distance is not less -than eighteen miles, and the diversified culture -of the plains, through which it passes, -is unusually grateful to the eye, after the -dirty buildings of Cologne and the long -uniformity of corn lands in the approach to -it. Vines cover a great part of these plains, -and are here first seen in Germany, except, -indeed, within the walls of Cologne itself, -which contain many large inclosures, converted -from gardens and orchards into well -sheltered vineyards. The vines reminded -us of English hop plants, being set, like -them, in rows, and led round poles to various -heights, though all less than that of -hops. Corn, fruit or herbs were frequently -growing between the rows, whose light -green foliage mingled beautifully with yellow -wheat and larger patches of garden -plantations, that spread, without any inclosures, -to the sweeping Rhine, on the left. -Beyond, appeared the blue ridges of Westphalian -mountains. On the right, the plains -extend to a chain of lower and less distant -hills, whose skirts are covered with vines -and summits darkened with thick woods.</p> - -<p>The Elector's palace of Bruhl is on the -right hand of the road, at no great distance, -but we were not told, till afterwards, of -the magnificent architecture and furniture, -which ought to have attracted our curiosity.</p> - -<p>On a green and circular hill, near the -Rhine, stands the Benedictine abbey of -Siegbourg, one of the first picturesque objects -of the rich approach to Bonn; and, -further on, the castle-like towers of a convent -of noble ladies; both societies celebrated -for their wealth and the pleasantness -of their situations, which command extensive -prospects over the country, on each -side of the river. As we drew near Bonn, -we frequently caught, between the trees of -the avenue, imperfect, but awakening glimpses -of the pointed mountains beyond; contrasted -with the solemn grandeur of which -was the beauty of a round woody hill, apparently -separated from them only by the -Rhine and crowned with the spire of a -comely convent. Bonn, with tall slender -steeples and the trees of its ramparts, thus -backed by sublime mountains, looks well, -as you approach it from Cologne, though -neither its noble palace, nor the Rhine, -which washes its walls, are seen from hence. -We were asked our names at the gate, but -had no trouble about passports, or baggage. -A long and narrow street leads from thence -to the market-place, not disgusting you either -with the gloom, or the dirt of Cologne, -though mean houses are abundantly intermixed -with the others, and the best are -far from admirable. The <i>physiognomy of -the place</i>, if one may use the expression, is -wholesome, though humble. By the recommendation -of a Dutch merchant, we -went to an inn in another street, branching -from the market-place; and found it the -cleanest, since we had left Holland.</p> - -<p>Bonn may be called the political capital -of the country, the Elector's Court being -held only there; and, what would not be -expected, this has importance enough to -command the residence of an agent from -almost every Power in Europe. The present -Elector being the uncle of the Emperor, -this attention is, perhaps, partly paid, with -the view, that it may be felt at the Court -of Vienna. Even Russia is not unrepresented -in this miniature State.</p> - -<p>The Elector's palace is, in point of grandeur, -much better fitted to be the scene of -diplomatic ceremonies, than those of many -greater Sovereigns; and it is fitted also for -better than diplomatic purposes, being placed -before some of the most striking of nature's -features, of which it is nearly as worthy -an ornament as art can make. It is seated -on the western bank of the Rhine, the general -course of which it fronts, though it -forms a considerable angle with the part immediately -nearest. The first emotion, on -perceiving it, being that of admiration, at -its vastness, the wonder is, of course, equal, -with which you discover, that it is only -part of a greater design. It consists of a -centre and an eastern wing, which are completed, -and of a western wing, of which -not half is yet raised. The extent from -east to west is so great, that, if we had enquired -the measurement, we should have -been but little assisted in giving an idea of -the spectacle, exhibited by so immense a -building.</p> - -<p>It is of stone, of an architecture, perhaps, -not adequate to the grandeur of its extent, -but which fills no part with unsuitable, or -inelegant ornaments. Along the whole garden -front, which is the chief, a broad terrace -supports a promenade and an orangery -of noble trees, occasionally refreshed by -fountains, that, ornamented with statues, rise -from marble basons. An arcade through -the centre of the palace leads to this terrace, -from whence the prospect is strikingly -beautiful and sublime. The eye passes over -the green lawn of the garden and a tract of -level country to the groupe, called the Seven -Mountains, broken, rocky and abrupt -towards their summits, yet sweeping finely -near their bases, and uniting with the plains -by long and gradual descents, that spread -round many miles. The nearest is about a -league and a half off. We saw them under -the cloudless sky of June, invested with -the mistiness of heat, which softening their -rocky points, and half veiling their recesses, -left much for the imagination to supply, -and gave them an aërial appearance, a faint -tint of silvery grey, that was inexpressibly -interesting. The Rhine, that winds at their -feet, was concealed from us by the garden -groves, but from the upper windows of -the palace it is seen in all its majesty.</p> - -<p>On the right from this terrace, the smaller -palace of Poppelsdorff terminates a long -avenue of limes and chesnut trees, that -communicates with both buildings, and -above are the hill and the convent <i>Sanctæ -Crucis</i>, the latter looking out from among -firs and shrubby steeps. From thence the -western horizon is bounded by a range of -hills, clothed to their summits with wood. -The plain, that extends between these and -the Rhine, is cultivated with vines and -corn, and the middle distance is marked by -a pyramidal mountain, darkened by wood -and crowned with the tower and walls of a -ruined castle.</p> - -<p>The gardens of the palace are formally -laid out in straight walks and alleys of cut -trees; but the spacious lawn between these -gives fine effect to the perspective of the -distant mountains; and the bowery walks, -while they afford refreshing shelter from a -summer sun, allow partial views of the palace -and the romantic landscape.</p> - -<p>It was the Elector Joseph Clement, the -same who repaired the city, left in a ruinous -state by the siege of 1703, under the -Duke of Marlborough, that built this -magnificent residence. There are in it many -suites of state rooms and every sort of apartment -usual in the mansions of Sovereigns; -saloons of audience and ceremony, a library, -a cabinet of natural history and a theatre. -Though these are readily opened to strangers, -we are to confess, that we did not see them, -being prevented by the attentions of those, -whose civilities gave them a right to command -us, while their situations enabled -them to point out the best occupation of -our time. The hall of the Grand Master of -the Teutonic Order, ornamented with portraits -of all the grand masters, we are, however, -sorry to have neglected even for the -delights of Poppelsdorff, which we were -presently shewn.</p> - -<p>Leaving the palace, we passed through -the garden, on the right, to a fine avenue -of turf, nearly a mile long, bordered by -alleys of tall trees, and so wide, that the -late Elector had designed to form a canal -in the middle of it, for an opportunity of -passing between his palaces, by land, or -water, as he might wish. The palace of -Poppelsdorff terminates the perspective of -this avenue. It is a small building, surrounded -by its gardens, in a taste not very -good, and remarkable chiefly for the pleasantness -of its situation. An arcade, encompassing -a court in the interior, communicates -with all the apartments on the -ground floor, which is the principal, and -with the gardens, on the eastern side of the -chateau. The entrance is through a small -hall, decorated with the ensigns of hunting, -and round nearly the whole arcade -stags' heads are placed, at equal distances. -These have remained here, since the reign -of Clement Augustus, the founder of the -palace, who died in 1761; and they exhibit -some part of the history of his life; for, -under each, is an inscription, relating the -events and date of the hunt, by which he -killed it. There are twenty-three such ornaments.</p> - -<p>The greatest part of the furniture had -been removed, during the approach of the -French, in 1792; and the Archduchess -Maria Christina, to whom the Elector, her -brother, had lent the chateau, was now -very far from sumptuously accommodated. -On this account, she passed much of her -time, at Goodesberg, a small watering place -in the neighbourhood. After her retreat -from Brussels, in consequence of the advances -of the French in the same year, she -had accompanied her husband, the Duke of -Saxe Teschen, into Saxony; but, since his -appointment to the command of the Emperor's -army of the Upper Rhine, her residence -had been established in the dominions -of her brother.</p> - -<p>We were shewn through her apartments, -which she had left for Goodesberg, a few -hours before. On the table of her sitting -room lay the fragments of a painted cross, -composed of small pieces, like our dissected -maps, the putting of which together exercises -ingenuity and passes, perhaps, for a -sort of piety. The attendant said, that it -served to pass the time; but it cannot be -supposed, that rank and fortune have so -little power to bestow happiness, as that -their possessors should have recourse to such -means of lightening the hours of life.</p> - -<p>On another table, was spread a map of -all the countries, then included in the -Theatre of War, and on it a box, filled -with small pieces of various coloured wax, -intended to mark the positions of the different -armies. These were of many shades; -for the Archduchess, who is said to be conversant -with military affairs and to have -descended to the firing of bombs at the siege -of Lisle, was able to distinguish the several -corps of the allied armies, that were acting -separately from each other. The positions -were marked up to the latest accounts then -public. The course of her thoughts was -visible from this chart, and they were interesting -to curiosity, being those of the -sister of the late unfortunate Queen of -France.</p> - -<p>The walls of an adjoining cabinet were -ornamented with drawings from the antique -by the Archduchess, disposed upon a light -ground and serving instead of tapestry.</p> - -<p>The chapel is a rotunda, rising into a -dome, and, though small, is splendid with -painting and gilding. In the centre are -four altars, formed on the four sides of a -square pedestal, that supports a figure of -our Saviour; but the beauty of this design -is marred by the vanity of placing near -each altar the statue of a founder of the -Teutonic order. The furniture of the -Elector's gallery is of crimson velvet and -gold.</p> - -<p>On another side of the chateau, we were -shewn an apartment entirely covered with -grotto work, and called the hall of shells; -a curious instance of patient industry, having -been completed by one man, during a labour -of many years. Its situation in the -middle of an inhabited mansion is unsuitable -to the character of a grotto: but its -coolness must render it a very convenient -retreat; and the likenesses of animals, as -well as the other forms, into which the -shells are thrown, though not very elegant, -are fanciful enough, especially as the ornaments -of fountains, which play into several -parts of the room.</p> - -<p>Leaving the palace by the bridge of a -moat, that nearly surrounds it, we passed -through the pleasant village of Poppelsdorff, -and ascended the hill <span class="smallcaps">Sanctæ Crucis</span>, -called so from the convent of the same -name, which occupies its summit. The -road wound between thick woods; but we -soon left it for a path, that led more -immediately to the summit, among shrubs and -plantations of larch and fir, and which -opened into easy avenues of turf, that sometimes -allowed momentary views of other -woody points and of the plains around. -The turf was uncommonly fragrant and -fine, abounding with plants, which made -us regret the want of a Botanist's knowledge -and pleasures. During the ascent, the -peaked tops of the mountains of the Rhine, -so often admired below, began to appear -above a ridge of dark woods, very near us, -in a contrast of hues, which was exquisitely -fine. It was now near evening; the mistiness -of heat was gone from the surface of -these mountains, and they had assumed a -blue tint so peculiar and clear, that they -appeared upon the sky, like supernatural -transparencies.</p> - -<p>We had heard, at Bonn, of the Capuchins' -courtesy, and had no hesitation to -knock at their gate, after taking some rest -in the portico of the church, from whence -we looked down another side of the mountain, -over the long plains between Bonn -and Cologne. Having waited some time at -the gate, during which many steps fled -along the passage and the head of a monk -appeared peeping through a window above, -a servant admitted us into a parlour, adjoining -the refectory, which appeared to -have been just left. This was the first convent -we had entered, and we could not -help expecting to see more than others had -described; an involuntary habit, from which -few are free, and which need not be imputed -to vanity, so long as the love of surprise -shall be so visible in human pursuits. -When the lay-brother had quitted us, to -inform the superior of our request, not a -footstep, or a voice approached, for near a -quarter of an hour, and the place seemed -as if uninhabited. Our curiosity had no -indulgence within the room, which was of -the utmost plainness, and that plainness free -from any thing, that the most tractable imagination -could suppose peculiar to a convent. -At length, a monk appeared, who -received us with infinite good humour, and -with the ease which must have been acquired -in more general society. His shaven -head and black garments formed a whimsical -contrast to the character of his person -and countenance, which bore no symptoms -of sorrow, or penance, and were, indeed, -animated by an air of cheerfulness and intelligence, -that would have become the happiest -inhabitant of the gayest city.</p> - -<p>Through some silent passages, in which -he did not shew us a cell and we did not -perceive another monk, we passed to the -church, where the favour of several Electors -has assisted the display of paintings, marble, -sculpture, gold and silver, mingled and -arranged with magnificent effect. Among -these was the marble statue, brought from -England, at a great expence, and here called -a representation of St. Anne, who is said to -have found the Cross. Our conductor -seemed to be a man of good understanding -and desirous of being thought so; a disposition, -which gave an awkwardness to his -manner, when, in noticing a relic, he was -obliged to touch upon some unproved and -unimportant tradition, peculiar to his church -and not essential to the least article of our -faith. His sense of decorum as a member -of the convent seemed then to be struggling -with his vanity, as a man.</p> - -<p>But there are relics here, pretending to -a connection with some parts of christian -history, which it is shocking to see introduced -to consideration by any means so -trivial and so liable to ridicule. It is, indeed, -wonderful, that the absurd exhibitions, -made in Romish churches, should so often -be minutely described, and dwelt upon in -terms of ludicrous exultation by those, who -do not intend that most malignant of offences -against human nature, the endeavour -to excite a wretched vanity by sarcasm and -jest, and to employ it in eradicating the -comforts of religion. To such writers, the -probable mischief of uniting with the mention -of the most important divine doctrines -the most ridiculous of human impositions -ought to be apparent; and, as the risk is -unnecessary in a Protestant country, why -is it encountered? That persons otherwise -inclined should adopt these topics is not surprising; -the easiest pretences to wit are -found to be made by means of familiar allusions -to sacred subjects, because their necessary -incongruity accomplishes the greatest -part of what, in other cases, must be done -by wit itself; there will, therefore, never be -an end of such allusions, till it is generally -seen, that they are the resources and symptoms -of mean understandings, urged by the -feverish desire of an eminence, to which -they feel themselves inadequate.</p> - -<p>From the chapel we ascended to a tower -of the convent, whence all the scattered -scenes, of whose beauty, or sublimity, we -had caught partial glimpses between the -woods below, were collected into one vast -landscape, and exhibited almost to a single -glance. The point, on which the convent -stands, commands the whole horizon. To -the north, spread the wide plains, before -seen, covered with corn, then just embrowned, -and with vines and gardens, -whose alternate colours formed a gay checker -work with villages, convents and castles. -The grandeur of this level was unbroken -by any inclosures, that could seem to diminish -its vastness. The range of woody -heights, that bound it on the west, extend -to the southward, many leagues beyond the -hill <i>Sanctæ Crucis</i>; but the uniform and -unbroken ridges of distant mountains, on -the east, cease before the Seven Mountains -rise above the Rhine in all their awful -majesty. The bases of the latter were yet -concealed by the woody ridge near the convent, -which gives such enchanting effect -to their aërial points. The sky above them -was clear and glowing, unstained by the -lightest vapour; and these mountains still -appeared upon it, like unsubstantial visions. -On the two highest pinnacles we could just -distinguish the ruins of castles, and, on a -lower precipice, a building, which our reverend -guide pointed out as a convent, dedicated -to St. Bernard, giving us new occasion -to admire the fine taste of the monks -in their choice of situations.</p> - -<p>Opposite to the Seven Mountains, the -plains of Goodesberg are screened by the -chain of hills already mentioned, which begin -in the neighbourhood of Cologne, and -whose woods, spreading into France, there -assume the name of the Forest of Ardennes. -Within the recesses of these woods the -Elector has a hunting-seat, almost every -window of which opens upon a different -alley, and not a stag can cross these without -being seen from the chateau. It is melancholy -to consider, that the most frequent -motives of man's retirement among the -beautiful recesses of nature, are only those -of destroying the innocent animals that inhabit -her shades. Strange! that her lovely -scenes cannot soften his heart to milder -pleasures, or elevate his fancy to nobler pursuits, -and that he must still seek his amusement -in scattering death among the harmless -and the happy.</p> - -<p>As we afterwards walked in the garden -of the convent, the greater part of which -was planted with vines, the monk further -exhibited his good humour and liberality. -He enquired concerning the events of the -war, of which he appeared to know the -latest; spoke of his friends in Cologne and -other places; drew a ludicrous picture of -the effect which would be produced by the -appearance of a capuchin in London, and -laughed immoderately at it. "There," said -he, "it would be supposed, that some harlequin -was walking in a capuchin's dress to -attract spectators for a pantomime; here -nobody will follow him, lest he should lead -them to church. Every nation has its way, -and laughs at the ways of others. Considering -the effects, which differences sometimes -have, there are few things more innocent -than that sort of laughter."</p> - -<p>The garden was stored with fruits and -the vegetable luxuries of the table, but was -laid out with no attention to beauty, its -inimitable prospects having, as the good -monk said, rendered the society careless -of less advantages. After exchanging our -thanks for his civilities against his thanks -for the visit, we descended to Poppelsdorff -by a steep road, bordered with firs and fragrant -shrubs, which frequently opened to -corn lands and vineyards, where peasants -were busied in dressing the vines.</p> - -<p>About a mile from Bonn is a garden, or -rather nursery, to which they have given -the name of <i>Vauxhall</i>. It is much more -rural than that of London, being planted -with thick and lofty groves, which, in this -climate, are gratefully refreshing, during the -summer-day, but are very pernicious in the -evening, when the vapour, arising from the -ground, cannot escape through the thick -foliage. The garden is lighted up only on -great festivals, or when the Elector or his -courtiers give a ball in a large room built -for the purpose. On some days, half the -inhabitants of Bonn are to be seen in this -garden, mingling in the promenade with -the Elector and his nobility; but there -were few visitors when we saw it. Count -<span class="smallcaps">Gimnich</span>, the commander, who had -surrendered Mentz to the French, was the only -person pointed out to us.</p> - -<p>The road from hence to Bonn was laid -out and planted with poplars at the expence -of the Elector, who has a taste for works of -public advantage and ornament. His Grandmastership -of the Teutonic Order renders -his Court more frequented than those of the -other ecclesiastical Princes, the possessions of -that Order being still considerable enough -to support many younger brothers of noble -families. Having passed his youth in the -army, or at the courts of Vienna or Brussels, -he is also environed by friends, made -before the vacancy of an ecclesiastical electorate -induced him to change his profession; -and the union of his three incomes, -as Bishop of Munster, Grand Master and -Elector, enables him to spend something -more than two hundred thousand pounds -annually. His experience and revenues are, -in many respects, very usefully employed. -To the nobility he affords an example of -so much personal dignity, as to be able to -reject many ostentatious customs, and to -remove some of the ceremonial barriers, -which men do not constantly place between -themselves and their fellow-beings, except -from some consciousness of personal weakness. -All sovereigns, who have had any -sense of their individual liberty and power, -have shewn a readiness to remove such -barriers; but not many have been able to -effect so much as the Elector of Cologne -against the chamberlains, pages, and other -footmanry of their courts, who are always -upon the <i>alerte</i> to defend the false magnificence -that makes their offices seem necessary. -He now enjoys many of the -blessings, usual only in private stations; -among others, that of conversing with great -numbers of persons, not forced into his society -by their rank, and of dispensing with -much of that attendance, which would -render his menial servants part of his company.</p> - -<p>His secretary, Mr. Floret, whom we had -the pleasure to see, gave us some accounts -of the industry and carefulness of his private -life, which he judiciously thought were -better than any other panegyrics upon his -master. His attention to the relief, employment -and education of the poor, to the -state of manufactures and the encouragement -of talents, appears to be continual; -and his country would soon have elapsed -from the general wretchedness of Germany, -if the exertions of three campaigns had not -destroyed what thirty years of care and improvement -cannot restore.</p> - -<p>His residence at Bonn occasions expenditure -enough to keep the people busy, but -he has not been able to divert to it any part -of the commerce, which, though it is of -so little use at Cologne, is here spoken of -with some envy, and seems to be estimated -above its amount. The town, which is -much neater than the others in the electorate, -and so pleasantly situated, that its name -has been supposed to be formed from the -Latin synonym for good, is ornamented by -few public buildings, except the palace. -What is called the University is a small -brick building, used more as a school than -a college, except that the masters are called -professors. The principal church of four, -which are within the walls, is a large building, -distinguished by several spires, but not -remarkable for its antiquity or beauty.</p> - -<p>Many of the German powers retain some -shew of a representative government, as to -affairs of finance, and have States, by which -taxes are voted. Those of the electorate of -Cologne consist of four colleges, representing -the clergy, nobility, knights and cities; -the votes are given by colleges, so that the -inhabitants of the cities, if they elect their -representatives fairly, have one vote in four. -These States assemble at Bonn.</p> - -<p>One of the privileges, which it is surprising -that the present Elector should retain, -is that of grinding corn for the consumption -of the whole town. His mill, like -those of all the towns on the Rhine, is a -floating one, moored in the river, which -turns its wheel. Bread is bad at Bonn; but -this oppressive privilege is not entirely answerable -for it, there being little better -throughout the whole country. It generally -appears in rolls, with glazed crusts, half -hollow; the crumb not brown, but a sort of -dirty white.</p> - -<p>There are few cities in Germany without -walls, which, when the dreadful science of -war was less advanced than at present, frequently -protected them against large armies. -These are now so useless, that such cannon -as are employed against batteries could -probably not be fired from them without -shaking their foundations. The fortifications -of Bonn are of this sort; and, though -they were doubtless better, when the Duke -of Marlborough arrived before them, it is -wonderful that they should have sustained -a regular siege, during which great part of -the town was demolished. The electorate -of Cologne is, indeed, so ill prepared for -war, that it has not one town, which could -resist ten thousand men for three days.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Bonn, whenever they -regret the loss of their fortifications, should -be reminded of the three sieges, which, in -the course of thirty years, nearly destroyed -their city. Of these the first was in 1673, -when the Elector had received a French -garrison into it; but the resistance did not -then continue many days. It was in this -siege that the Prince of Orange, afterwards -our honoured William the Third, had one -of his few military successes. In 1689, the -French, who had lately defended it, returned -to attack it; and, before they could -subdue the strong garrison left in it by the -Elector of Brandenburg, the palace and several -public buildings were destroyed. The -third siege was commanded by the Duke -of Marlborough, and continued from the -24th of April to the 16th of May, the -French being then the defenders, and the -celebrated Cohorn one of the assailants. It -was not till fifteen years afterwards, that all -the houses, demolished in this siege, could -be restored by the efforts of the Elector -Joseph.</p> - -<p>The present Elector maintains, in time of -peace, about eight hundred soldiers, which -is the number of his contingent to the army -of the Empire: in the present war he has -supplied somewhat more than this allotment; -and, when we were at Bonn, two -thousand recruits were in training. His -troops wear the general uniform of the -Empire, blue faced with red, which many -of the Germanic sovereigns give only to -their contingent troops, while those of their -separate establishments are distinguished by -other colours. The Austrian regiments -are chiefly in white; faced with light blue, -grey, or red; but the artillery are dressed, -with very little shew, in a cloak speckled -with light brown.</p> - -<p>Bonn was one of the very few places in -Germany, which we left with regret. It is -endeared to the votaries of landscape by its -situation in the midst of fruitful plains, in -the presence of stupendous mountains, and -on the bank of a river, that, in summer, is -impelled by the dissolved snows of Switzerland, -and, in winter, rolls with the accumulation -of a thousand torrents from the -rocks on its shores. It contained many inhabitants, -who had the independence to aim -at a just taste in morals and letters, in spite -of the ill examples with which such -countries supply them; and, having the vices -of the form of government, established in -it, corrected by the moderation and immediate -attention of the governor, it might -be considered as a happy region in the -midst of ignorance, injustice and misery, -and remembered like the green spot, that, -in an Arabian desert, cheers the senses and -sustains the hopes of the weary traveller.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="GOODESBERG" id="GOODESBERG">GOODESBERG.</a></h3> - -<p>The ride from Bonn to this delightful -village is only one league over a -narrow plain, covered with corn and vineyards. -On our right was the range of -hills, before seen from the mountain <span class="smallcaps">Sanctæ -Crucis</span>, sweeping into frequent recesses, -and starting forward into promontories, -with inequalities, which gave exquisite -richness to the forest, that mantled from -their bases to their utmost summits. Many a -lurking village, with its slender grey steeple, -peeped from among the woody skirts of -these hills. On our left, the tremendous -mountains, that bind the eastern shore of -the Rhine, gradually lost their aërial complexion, -as we approached them, and displayed -new features and new enchantments; -an ever-varying illusion, to which -the transient circumstance of thunder clouds -contributed. The sun-beams, streaming -among these clouds, threw partial gleams -upon the precipices, and, followed by dark -shadows, gave surprising and inimitable -effect to the natural colouring of the mountains, -whose pointed tops we now discerned -to be covered with dark heath, extended -down their rocky sides, and mingled with -the reddish and light yellow tints of other -vegetation and the soil. It was delightful -to watch the shadows sweeping over these -steeps, now involving them in deep obscurity, -and then leaving them to the sun's -rays, which brought out all their hues into -vivid contrast.</p> - -<p>Near Goodesberg, a small mountain, insulated, -abrupt and pyramidal, rises from -the plain, which it seems to terminate, and -conceals the village, that lies along its -southern skirt. This mountain, covered -with vineyards and thick dwarf wood to -its summit, where one high tower and some -shattered walls appear, is a very interesting -object.</p> - -<p>At the entrance of the village, the road -was obstructed by a great number of small -carts, filled with soldiers apparently wounded. -The line of their procession had been -broken by some carriages, hastening with -company to the ridotto at Goodesberg, and -was not easily restored. Misery and festivity -could scarcely be brought into closer contrast. -We thought of Johnson's "many-coloured -life," and of his picture, in the -preface to Shakespeare, of cotemporary -wretchedness and joy, when "the reveller -is hastening to his wine, and the mourner -is burying his friend." This was a procession -of wounded French prisoners, chiefly -boys, whose appearance had, indeed, led us -to suspect their nation, before we saw the -stamp of the <i>fasces</i>, and the words "<i>Republique -Françoise</i>" upon the buttons of -some, whom our driver had nearly overset. -The few, that could raise themselves above -the floor of their carts, shewed countenances -yellow, or livid with sickness. They did -not talk to their guards, nor did the latter -shew any signs of exultation over them.</p> - -<p>In a plain, beyond the village, a row of -large houses, built upon one plan, and almost -resembling a palace, form the little -watering place of Goodesberg, which has -been founded partly at the expence of the -Elector, and partly by individuals under -his patronage. One of the houses was occupied -by the Archduchess, his sister, and -is often used by the Elector, who is extremely -solicitous for the prosperity of the -place. A large building at the end contains -the public rooms, and is fitted up as an -hotel.</p> - -<p>The situation of this house is beautiful -beyond any hope or power of description; -for description, though it may tell that -there are mountains and rocks, cannot -paint the grandeur, or the elegance of outline, -cannot give the effect of precipices, or -draw the minute features, that reward the -actual observer by continual changes of -colour, and by varying their forms at every -new choice of his position. Delightful -Goodesberg! the sublime and beautiful of -landscape, the charms of music, and the -pleasures of gay and elegant society, were -thine! The immediate unhappiness of war -has now fallen upon thee; but, though the -graces may have fled thee, thy terrible majesty -remains, beyond the sphere of human -contention.</p> - -<p>The plain, that contains the village and -the spa, is about five miles in length and -of half that breadth. It is covered by uninclosed -corn, and nearly surrounded by a -vast amphitheatre of mountains. In front -of the inn, at the distance of half a league, -extend, along the opposite shore of the -Rhine, the Seven Mountains, so long seen -and admired, which here assume a new attitude. -The three tallest points are now -nearest to the eye, and the lower mountains -are seen either in the perspective between -them, or sinking, with less abrupt declivities, -into the plains, on the north. The -whole mass exhibits a grandeur of outline, -such as the pencil only can describe; but -fancy may paint the stupendous precipices -of rock, that rise over the Rhine, the rich -tuftings of wood, that emboss the cliffs or -lurk within the recesses, the spiry summits -and the ruined castles, faintly discerned, -that crown them. Yet the appearance of -these mountains, though more grand, from -Goodesberg, is less sublime than from -Bonn; for the nearness, which increases -their grandeur, diminishes their sublimity -by removing the obscurity that had veiled -them. To the south of this plain, the long -perspective is crossed by further ranges of -mountains, which open to glimpses of others -still beyond; an endless succession of summits, -that lead on the imagination to unknown -vallies and regions of solitary obscurity.</p> - -<p>Amidst so many attractions of nature, art -cannot do much. The little, which it attempts, -at Goodesberg, is the disposition of -some walks from the houses to a spring, -which is said to resemble that at Spa, and -through the woods above it. Twice a week -there are some musical performances and a -ball given by the Elector, who frequently -appears, and with the ease and plainness of -a private gentleman. At these entertainments -the company, visiting the spring, are -joined by neighbouring families, so as to be -in number sixty, or a hundred. The balls, -agreeably to the earliness of German hours, -begin at six; and that, which we meant -to see, was nearly concluded before our arrival. -The company then retired to a public -game, at which large sums of gold were -risked, and a severe anxiety defied the influence -of Mozart's music, that continued -to be played by an excellent orchestra. -The dresses of the company were in the -English taste, and, as we were glad to believe, -chiefly of English manufacture; the -wearing of countenances by play appears -to be also according to our manners; and -the German ladies, with features scarcely -less elegant, have complexions, perhaps, -finer than are general in England.</p> - -<p>Meditating censures against the Elector's -policy, or carelessness, in this respect, we -took advantage of the last gleams of evening, -to ascend the slender and spiry mountain, -which bears the name of the village, -and appears ready to precipitate the ruins -of its antient castle upon it. A steep road, -winding among vineyards and dwarf wood, -enters, at the summit of the mountain, the -broken walls, which surround the antient -citadel of the castle; an almost solid building, -that has existed for more than five -centuries. From the area of these ruins we -saw the sun set over the whole line of -plains, that extend to the westward of Cologne, -whose spires were distinctly visible. -Bonn, and the hill <span class="smallcaps">Sanctæ Crucis</span>, appeared -at a league's distance, and the windings -of the Rhine gleamed here and there -amidst the rich scene, like distant lakes. It -was a still and beautiful evening, in which -no shade remained of the thunder clouds, -that passed in the day. To the west, under -the glow of sun-set, the landscape melted -into the horizon in tints so soft, so clear, -so delicately roseate as Claude only could -have painted. Viewed, as we then saw it, -beyond a deep and dark arch of the ruin, -its effect was enchanting; it was to the -eye, what the finest strains of Paisiello are -to the heart, or the poetry of Collins is to -the fancy—all tender, sweet, elegant and -glowing.</p> - -<p>From the other side of the hill the character -of the view is entirely different, and, -instead of a long prospect over an open and -level country, the little plain of Goodesberg -appears reposing amidst wild and awful -mountains. These were now melancholy -and silent; the last rays were fading from -their many points, and the obscurity of -twilight began to spread over them. We -seemed to have found the spot, for which -Collins wished:</p> - -<div class="poem"> -<p class="noindent"> -"Now let me rove some wild and heathy scene,<br /> -Or find some ruin 'midst its dreary dells,<br /> -Whose walls more awful nod<br /> -By thy religious gleams." -</p> -</div> -<p class="right"><span class="smallcaps">Ode to Evening.</span><br /></p> - -<p>And this is a place almost as renowned -in the history of the country, as it is worthy -to exercise the powers of poetry and painting. -The same Ernest, in the cause of -whose sovereignty the massacre of Neuss -was perpetrated, besieged here the same -Gerard de Trusches, the Elector, who had -embraced the Protestant religion, and for -whom Neuss held out. The castle of -Goodesberg was impregnable, except by -famine, but was very liable to that from -its insulated situation, and the ease, with -which the whole base of the mountain -could be surrounded. Gerard's defence was -rendered the more obstinate by his belief, -that nothing less than his life, and that of a -beautiful woman, the marrying of whom -had constituted one of the offences against -his Chapter, would appease his ferocious -enemies. He was personally beloved by -his garrison, and they adhered to him with -the affection of friends, as well as with the -enthusiasm of soldiers. When, therefore, -they perceived, that their surrender could -not be much longer protracted, they resolved -to employ their remaining time and -strength in enabling him to separate his -fortunes from theirs. They laboured incessantly -in forming a subterraneous passage, -which should open beyond the besiegers' -lines; and, though their distress became -extreme before this was completed, they -made no overtures for a surrender, till -Gerard and his wife had escaped by it. -The fugitives arrived safely in Holland, and -the vengeance of their adversaries was never -gratified further than by hearing, many -years after, that they died poor.</p> - -<p>The fortress, rendered interesting by -these traits of fidelity and misfortune, is -not so far decayed, but that its remains exhibit -much of its original form. It covered -the whole summit of the hill, and was valuable -as a residence, as well as a fortification. -What seem to have been the walls -of the great hall, in which probably the -horn of two quarts was often emptied to -welcome the guest, or reward the soldier, -are still perfect enough to preserve the -arches of its capacious windows, and the -doorways, that admitted its festive trains. -The vast strength of the citadel has been -unsubdued by war, or time. Though the -battlements, that crown it, are broken, and -of a gallery, that once encircled it half way -from the ground, the corbells alone remain, -the solid walls of the building itself -are unimpaired. At the narrow doorway, -by which only it could be entered, we -measured their thickness, and found it to be -more than ten feet, nearly half the diameter -of its area. There has never been a -fixed staircase, though these walls would so -well have contained one; and the hole is -still perfect in the floor above, through -which the garrison ascended, and drew up -their ladder after them. Behind the loopholes, -the wall has been hollowed, and -would permit a soldier, half bent, to stand -within them and use his bow. It was -twilight without and night within the edifice; -which fancy might have easily filled -with the stern and silent forms of warriors, -waiting for their prey, with the patience of -safety and sure superiority.</p> - -<p>We wandered long among these vestiges -of ancient story, rendered still more interesting -by the shadowy hour and the vesper -bell of a chapel on a cliff below. The -village, to which this belongs, straggles half -way up the mountain, and there are several -little shrines above it, which the cottagers, -on festivals, decorate with flowers. The -Priest is the schoolmaster of the parish, and -almost all the children, within several miles -of the hill, walk to it, every day, to prayers -and lessons. Whether it is from this care -of their minds, or that they are under -the authority of milder landlords than elsewhere, -the manners of the inhabitants in -this plain differ much from those, usual in -Germany. Instead of an inveterate sullenness, -approaching frequently to malignity, -they shew a civility and gentleness in their -intercourse with strangers, which leave the -enjoyments derived from inanimate nature, -unalloyed by the remembrances of human -deformity, that mingle with them in other -districts. Even the children's begging is in -a manner, which shews a different character. -They here kiss their little hands, and silently -hold them out to you, almost as much -in salute, as in entreaty; in many parts of -Germany their manner is so offensive, not -only for its intrusion, but as a symptom of -their disposition, that nothing but the remembrance -of the oppression, that produces -it, can prevent you from denying the little -they are compelled to require.</p> - -<p>The music had not ceased, when we returned -to the inn; and the mellowness of -French horns, mingled with the tenderness -of hautboys, gave a kind of enchantment -to the scenery, which we continued to -watch from our windows. The opposite -mountains of the Rhine were gradually -vanishing in twilight and then as gradually -re-appearing, as the rising moon threw -her light upon their broken surfaces. The -perspective in the east received a silvery -softness, which made its heights appear like -shadowy illusions, while the nearer mountains -were distinguished by their colouring, -as much as by their forms. The broad -Rhine, at their feet, rolled a stream of light -for their boundary, on this side. But the -first exquisite tint of beauty soon began to -fade; the mountains became misty underneath -the moon, and, as she ascended, these -mists thickened, till they veiled the landscape -from our view.</p> - -<p>The spring, which is supposed to have -some medicinal qualities, is about a quarter -of a mile from the rooms, in a woody valley, -in which the Elector has laid out several -roads and walks. It rises in a stone -bason, to which the company, if they wish -to drink it on the spot, descend by an -handsome flight of steps. We were not -told its qualities, but there is a ferrugineous -tint upon all the stones, which it touches. -The taste is slightly unpleasant.</p> - -<p>The three superior points of the Seven -Mountains, which contribute so much to -the distinction of Goodesberg, are called -Drakenfels, Wolkenbourg and Lowenbourg, -and have each been crowned by its castle, -of which two are still visible in ruins. -There is a story faintly recorded, concerning -them. Three brothers, resolving to -found three distinguished families, took the -method, which was anciently in use for -such a purpose, that of establishing themselves -in fortresses, from whence they could -issue out, and take what they wanted from -their industrious neighbours. The pinnacles -of Drakenfels, Wolkenbourg and Lowenbourg, -which, with all assistance, cannot -be ascended now, without the utmost -fatigue, were inaccessible, when guarded by -the castles, built by the three brothers. -Their depredations, which they called successes -in war, enriched their families, and -placed them amongst the most distinguished -in the Empire.</p> - -<p>They had a sister, named Adelaide, -famed to have been very beautiful; and, -their parents being dead, the care of her -had descended to them. Roland, a young -knight, whose castle was on the opposite -bank of the Rhine, became her suitor, and -gained her affections. Whether the brothers -had expected, by her means, to form -a more splendid alliance, or that they remembered -the ancient enmity between -their family and that of Roland, they secretly -resolved to deny the hand of Adelaide, -but did not choose to provoke him by -a direct refusal. They stipulated, that he -should serve, a certain number of years, in -the war of Palestine, and, on his return, -should be permitted to renew his suit.</p> - -<p>Roland took a reluctant farewell of Adelaide, -and went to the war, where he was -soon distinguished for an impetuous career. -Adelaide remained in the castle of Drakenfels, -waiting, in solitary fidelity, for his -return. But the brothers had determined, -that he should not return for her. They -clothed one of their dependents in the disguise -of a pilgrim, and introduced him into -the castle, where he related that he was -arrived from the holy wars, and had been -desired by Roland in his latest moments to -assure Adelaide of his having loved her till -death.</p> - -<p>The unhappy Adelaide believed the tale, -and, from that time, devoted herself to the -memory of Roland and to the nourishment -of her sorrow. She rejected all the suitors, -introduced by her brothers, and accepted -no society, but that of some neighbouring -nuns. At length, the gloom of a cloister -became so necessary to the melancholy of -her imagination, that she resolved to found -a convent and take the veil; a design, -which her brothers assisted, with the view -of placing her effectually beyond the reach -of her lover. She chose an island in the -Rhine between her brother's castle and the -seat of Roland, both of which she could -see from the windows of her convent; and -here she passed some years in the placid -performance of her new duties.</p> - -<p>At length, Roland returned, and they -both discovered the cruel device, by which -they had been separated for ever. Adelaide -remained in her convent, and soon after -died; but Roland, emulating the fidelity -of her retirement, built, at the extreme -point of his domains towards the Rhine, -a small castle, that overlooked the island, -where he wasted his days in melancholy -regret, and in watching over the walls, that -shrouded his Adelaide.</p> - -<p>This is the story, on which the wild -and vivid imagination of Ariosto is said to -have founded his Orlando.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="THE_VALLEY_OF_ANDERNACH" id="THE_VALLEY_OF_ANDERNACH">THE VALLEY OF ANDERNACH.</a></h3> - -<p>After spending part of two days -at Goodesberg, we set out, in a sultry afternoon, -for the town of Andernach, -distant about five-and-twenty English miles. -The road wound among corn-lands towards -the Rhine, and approached almost as near -to the Seven Mountains, as the river would -permit. Opposite to the last, and nearly -the tallest of these, called Drakenfels, the -open plain terminates, and the narrower -valley begins.</p> - -<p>This mountain towers, the majestic sentinel -of the river over which it aspires, in vast -masses of rock, varied with rich tuftings of -dwarf-wood, and bearing on its narrow -peak the remains of a castle, whose walls -seem to rise in a line with the perpendicular -precipice, on which they stand, and, when -viewed from the opposite bank, appear little -more than a rugged cabin. The eye aches -in attempting to scale this rock; but the -sublimity of its height and the grandeur of -its intermingled cliffs and woods gratify the -warmest wish of fancy.</p> - -<p>The road led us along the western bank -of the Rhine among vineyards, and corn, -and thick trees, that allowed only transient -catches of the water between their branches; -but the gigantic form of Drakenfels was -always seen, its superior features, perhaps, -appearing more wild, from the partial concealment -of its base, and assuming new attitudes -as we passed away from it. Lowenberg, -whose upper region only had been -seen from Goodesberg, soon unfolded itself -from behind Drakenfels, and displayed all -its pomp of wood, sweeping from the -spreading base in one uninterrupted line of -grandeur to the spiry top, on which one -high tower of the castle appears enthroned -among the forests. This is the loftiest of -the Seven Mountains; and its dark sides, -where no rock is visible, form a fine contrast -with the broken cliffs of Drakenfels. -A multitude of spiry summits appeared beyond -Lowenberg, seen and lost again, as -the nearer rocks of the shore opened to the -distance, or re-united. About a mile further, -lies the pleasant island, on which -Adelaide raised her convent. As it was well -endowed, it has been rebuilt, and is now a -large and handsome quadrangle of white -stone, surrounded with trees, and corn, and -vineyards, and still allotted to the society, -which she established. An abrupt, but not -lofty rock, on the western shore of the -Rhine, called Rolands Eck, or Roland's -Corner, is the site of her lover's castle, of -which one arch, picturesquely shadowed -with wood, is all that remains of this monument -to faithful love. The road winds -beneath it, and nearly overhangs the narrow -channel, that separates Adelaide's island -from the shore. Concerning this rock there -is an antient rhyme in the country, amounting -to something like the following:</p> - -<div class="poem"> -<p class="noindent"> -<span class="small">Was not Roland, the knight, a strange silly wight,</span><br /> -<span class="small">For the love of a nun, to live on this height?</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p>After passing the island, the valley contracts, -and the river is soon shut up between -fruitful and abrupt hills, which rise immediately -over it, on one side, and a series of -rocky heights on the other. In the small -space, left between these heights and the -Rhine, the road is formed. For the greater -part of the way, it has been hollowed in -the solid rock, which ascends almost perpendicularly -above it, on one hand, and -sinks as abruptly below it, to the river, on -the other; a work worthy of Roman perseverance -and design, and well known to -be a monument of both. It was made -during the reign of Marcus Aurelius and -Lucius Verus; and as the inscription, -whose antiquity has not been doubted, dates -its completion in the year 162, it must have -been finished in one year, or little more, -Marcus Aurelius having been raised to -the purple in 161. The Elector Palatine -having repaired this road, which the -Electors of Cologne had neglected, in 1768, has -caused his name to be joined with those of -the Roman Emperors, in the following inscription -upon an obelisk:</p> - -<div class="center"> -<p class="noindent">VIAM<br /> - -SUB M.<br /> - -AURELIO<br /> -ET L. VERO<br /> -I. M. P. P.<br /> -ANNO CHR.<br /> -CLXII<br /> -MUNITAM<br /> -CAROLUS<br /> -THEODORUS<br /> -ELECTOR PAL.<br /> -DUX BAV. JUL. CL. M.<br /> -REFECIT<br /> -ET AMPLIAVIT<br /> -AN. M.DCCLXVIII<br /> -CURANTE JO. LUD. COMITE<br /> -DE GOLDSTEIN<br /> -PRO PRINCIPE. -</p> -</div> - -<p>We did not sufficiently observe the commencement -and conclusion of this road, to -be certain of its exact length; but it is -probably about twelve miles. The rock above -is, for the most part, naked to the summit, -where it is thinly covered with earth; -but sometimes it slopes so much as to -permit patches of soil on its side, and -these are carefully planted with vines. -This shore of the Rhine may be said to -be bounded, for many miles, by an immense -wall of rock, through which the -openings into the country behind are few; -and these breaks shew only deep glens, seen -and lost again so quickly, that a woody -mountain, or a castle, or a convent, were -the only objects we could ascertain.</p> - -<p>This rock lies in oblique <i>strata</i>, and resembles -marble in its brown and reddish -tints, marked with veins of deeper red; but -we are unable to mention it under its -proper and scientific denomination. The -colouring of the cliffs is beautiful, when -mingled with the verdure of shrubs, that -sometimes hang in rich drapery from their -points, and with the mosses, and creeping -vegetables of bright crimson, yellow, and -purple, that emboss their fractured sides.</p> - -<p>The road, which the Elector mentions -himself to have widened, is now and then -very narrow, and approaches near enough -to the river, over which it has no parapet, -to make a traveller anxious for the sobriety -and skill of his postillion. It is sometimes -elevated forty feet above the level of the -Rhine, and seldom less than thirty; an elevation -from whence the water and its -scenery are viewed to great advantage; but -to the variety and grandeur of these shores, -and the ever-changing form of the river, -description cannot do justice.</p> - -<p>Sometimes, as we approached a rocky -point, we seemed going to plunge into the -expanse of water beyond; when, turning -the sharp angle of the promontory, the -road swept along an ample bay, where the -rocks, receding, formed an amphitheatre, -covered with <i>ilex</i> and dwarf-wood, round -a narrow, but cultivated level stripe: then, -winding the furthest angle of this crescent, -under huge cliffs, we saw the river beyond, -shut in by the folding bases of more distant -promontories, assume the form of a lake, -amidst wild and romantic landscapes. Having -doubled one of these capes, the prospect -opened in long perspective, and the green -waters of the Rhine appeared in all their -majesty, flowing rapidly between ranges of -marbled rocks, and a succession of woody -steeps, and overlooked by a multitude of -spiry summits, which distance had sweetly -coloured with the blue and purple tints of -air.</p> - -<p>The retrospect of the river, too, was -often enchanting, and the Seven Mountains -long maintained their dignity in the scene, -superior to many intervening heights; the -dark summit of Lowenbourg, in particular, -appeared, for several leagues, overlooking -the whole valley of the Rhine.</p> - -<p>The eastern margin of the river sometimes -exhibited as extensive a range of steep -rocks as the western, and frequently the -fitness of the salient angles on one side, to -the recipient ones on the other, seemed to -justify the speculation, that they had been -divided by an earthquake, which let the -river in between them. The general state -of the eastern bank, though steep, is that -of the thickest cultivation. The rock frequently -peeps, in rugged projections, -through the thin soil, which is scattered -over its declivity, and every where appears -at top; but the sides are covered with vines -so abundantly, that the labour of cultivating -them, and of expressing the wine, supports -a village at least at every half mile. The -green rows are led up the steeps to an -height, which cannot be ascended without -the help of steps cut in the rock: the soil -itself is there supported by walls of loose -stones, or it would fall either by its own -weight, or with the first pressure of rain; -and sometimes even this scanty mould appears -to have been placed there by art, being -in such small patches, that, perhaps, only -twenty vines can be planted in each. But -such excessive labour has been necessary -only towards the summits, for, lower down, -the soil is sufficiently deep to support the -most luxuriant vegetation.</p> - -<p>It might be supposed from so much produce -and exertion, that this bank of the -Rhine is the residence of an opulent, or, -at least, a well-conditioned peasantry, and -that the villages, of which seven or eight -are frequently in sight at once, are as superior -to the neighbouring towns by the -state of their inhabitants, as they are by -their picturesque situation. On the contrary, -the inhabitants of the wine country -are said to be amongst the poorest in Germany. -The value of every hill is exactly -watched by the landlords, so that the tenants -are very seldom benefited by any improvement -of its produce. If the rent is paid in -money, it leaves only so much in the hands -of the farmer as will enable him to live, -and pay his workmen; while the attention -of a great number of stewards is supposed -to supply what might be expected from his -attention, had he a common interest with -his landlord in the welfare of the estate. -But the rent is frequently paid in kind, -amounting to a settled proportion of the -produce; and this proportion is so fixed, -that, though the farmer is immoderately -distressed by a bad vintage, the best will not -afford him any means of approaching to independence. -In other countries it might -be asked, "But, though we can suppose the -ingenuity of the landlord to be greater than -that of the tenant, at the commencement of -a bargain, how happens it, that, since the -result must be felt, the tenant will remain -under his burthens, or can be succeeded by -any other, on such terms?" Here, however, -these questions are not applicable; they -presume a choice of situations, which the -country does not afford. The severity of -the agricultural system continues itself by -continuing the poverty, upon which it acts; -and those who would escape from it find -few manufactures and little trade to employ -them, had they the capital and the education -necessary for either. The choice of -such persons is between the being a master -of day-labourers for their landlord, or a -labourer under other masters.</p> - -<p>Many of these estates belong immediately -to Princes, or Chapters, whose stewards superintend -the cultivation, and are themselves -instead of the farmers, so that all other persons -employed in such vineyards are ordinary -servants. By one or other of these -means it happens, that the bounteousness of -nature to the country is very little felt by -the body of the inhabitants. The payment -of rents in kind is usual, wherever the vineyards -are most celebrated; and, at such -places, there is this sure proof of the wretchedness -of the inhabitants, that, in a month -after the wine is made, you cannot obtain -one bottle of the true produce, except by -favour of the proprietors, or their stewards. -How much is the delight of looking upon -plenteousness lessened by the belief, that it -supplies the means of excess to a few, but -denies those of competence to many!</p> - -<p>Between this pass of cultivated steeps on -one side of the river, and of romantic rocks -on the other, the road continues for several -miles. Being thus commanded on both -sides, it must be one of the most difficult -passages in Europe to an enemy, if resolutely -defended. The Rhine, pent between -these impenetrable boundaries, is considerably -narrower here than in other parts of the -valley, and so rapid, that a loaded vessel can -seldom be drawn faster than at the rate of -six English miles a day, against the stream. -The passage down the river from Mentz to -Cologne may be easily performed in two -days; that from Cologne to Mentz requires -a fortnight.</p> - -<p>The view along this pass, though bounded, -is various and changeful. Villages, -vineyards and rocks alternately ornament -the borders of the river, and every fifty -yards enable the eye to double some massy -projection that concealed the fruitful bay -behind. An object at the end of the pass -is presented singly to the sight as through -an inverted telescope. The surface of the -water, or the whole stillness of the scene, -was very seldom interrupted by the passing -of a boat; carriages were still fewer; and, -indeed, throughout Germany, you will not -meet more than one in twenty miles. -Travelling is considered by the natives, who -know the fatigue of going in carriages nearly -without springs, and stopping at inns -where there is little of either accommodation -or civility, as productive of no pleasure; -and they have seldom curiosity or -business enough to recompense for its inconveniences.</p> - -<p>We passed through two or three small -towns, whose ruined gates and walls told of -their antiquity, and that they had once been -held of some consequence in the defence of -the valley. Their present desolation formed -a melancholy contrast with the cheerful cultivation -around them. These, however, -with every village in our way, were decorated -with green boughs, planted before -the door of each cottage, for it was a day -of festival. The little chapels at the road-side, -and the image, which, every now and -then, appeared under a spreading tree, were -adorned with wreaths of fresh flowers; -and though one might smile at the emblems -of superstition, it was impossible not -to reverence the sentiment of pious affection, -which had adjusted these simple ornaments.</p> - -<p>About half-way to Andernach, the western -rocks suddenly recede from the river, -and, rising to greater height, form a grand -sweep round a plain cultivated with orchards, -garden-fields, corn and vineyards. -The valley here spreads to a breadth of -nearly a mile and an half, and exhibits -grandeur, beauty and barren sublimity, -united in a singular manner. The abrupt -steeps, that rise over this plain, are entirely -covered with wood, except that here and -there the ravage of a winter torrent appeared, -which could sometimes be traced from -the very summit of the acclivity to the base. -Near the centre, this noble amphitheatre -opens to a glen, that shews only wooded -mountains, point above point, in long -perspective; such sylvan pomp we had seldom -seen! But though the tuftings of the nearer -woods were beautifully luxuriant, there -seemed to be few timber trees amongst -them. The opposite shore exhibited only -a range of rocks, variegated like marble, of -which purple was the predominating tint, -and uniformly disposed in vast, oblique -strata. But even here, little green patches -of vines peeped among the cliffs, and were -led up crevices where it seemed as if no -human foot could rest. Along the base of -this tremendous wall, and on the points -above, villages, with each its tall, grey -steeple, were thickly strewn, thus mingling -in striking contrast the cheerfulness of populous -inhabitation with the horrors of untamed -nature. A few monasteries, resembling -castles in their extent, and known -from such only by their spires, were distinguishable; -and, in the widening perspective -of the Rhine, an old castle itself, now and -then, appeared on the summit of a mountain -somewhat remote from the shore; an -object rendered sweetly picturesque, as the -sun's rays lighted up its towers and fortified -terraces, while the shrubby steeps below -were in shade.</p> - -<p>We saw this landscape under the happiest -circumstances of season and weather; the -woods and plants were in their midsummer -bloom, and the mellow light of evening -heightened the richness of their hues, and -gave exquisite effect to one half of the amphitheatre -we were passing, while the other -half was in shadow. The air was scented -by bean-blossoms, and by lime-trees then in -flower, that bordered the road. If this -plain had mingled pasture with its groves, -it would have been truly Arcadian; but -neither here, nor through the whole of this -delightful valley, did we see a single pasture -or meadow, except now and then in -an island on the Rhine; deficiencies which -are here supplied, to the lover of landscape, -by the verdure of the woods and vines. -In other parts of Germany they are more -to be regretted, where, frequently, only -corn and rock colour the land.</p> - -<p>Fatigued at length by such prodigality of -beauty, we were glad to be shrouded awhile -from the view of it, among close boughs, -and to see only the wide rivulets, with their -rustic bridges of faggots and earth, that, -descending from among the mountains, frequently -crossed our way; or the simple -peasant-girl, leading her cows to feed on the -narrow stripe of grass that margined the -road. The little bells, that jingled at their -necks, would not suffer them to stray beyond -her hearing. If we had not long -since dismissed our surprise at the scarcity -and bad quality of cheese and butter in -Germany, we should have done so now, on -perceiving this scanty method of pasturing -the cattle, which future observation convinced -us was the frequent practice.</p> - -<p>About sun-set we reached the little village -of Namedy, seated near the foot of a rock, -round which the Rhine makes a sudden -sweep, and, contracted by the bold precipices -of Hammerstein on the opposite shore, -its green current passes with astonishing rapidity -and sounding strength. These circumstances -of scenery, with the tall masts -of vessels lying below the shrubby bank, -on which the village stands, and seeming to -heighten by comparison the stupendous -rocks, that rose around them; the moving -figures of boatmen and horses employed in -towing a barge against the stream, in the -bay beyond; and a group of peasants on -the high quay, in the fore ground, watching -their progress; the ancient castle of -Hammerstein overlooking the whole—these -were a combination of images, that formed -one of the most interesting pictures we had -seen.</p> - -<p>The valley again expanding, the walls -and turrets of Andernach, with its Roman -tower rising independently at the foot of -a mountain, and the ruins of its castle above, -appeared athwart the perspective of the -river, terminating the pass; for there the -rocky boundary opened to plains and remote -mountains. The light vapour, that -rose from the water, and was tinged by the -setting rays, spread a purple haze over the -town and the cliffs, which, at this distance, -appeared to impend over it; colouring extremely -beautiful, contrasted as it was by -the clearer and deeper tints of rocks, wood -and water nearer to the eye.</p> - -<p>As we approached Andernach, its situation -seemed to be perpetually changing, -with the winding bank. Now it appeared -seated on a low peninsula, that nearly -crossed the Rhine, overhung by romantic -rocks; but this vision vanished as we advanced, -and we perceived the town lying -along a curving shore, near the foot of the -cliffs, which were finely fringed with wood, -and at the entrance of extensive plains. -Its towers seen afar, would be signs of a -considerable place, to those who had not -before been wearied of such symptoms by -the towers of Neuss, and other German -towns. From a wooded precipice over the -river we had soon after a fine retrospective -glimpse of the valley, its fantastic shores, -and long mountainous distance, over which -evening had drawn her sweetest colouring. -As we pursued the pass, the heights on -either hand gradually softened; the country -beyond shewed remote mountains less wild -and aspiring than those we had left, and -the blooming tint, which had invested the -distance, deepened to a dusky purple, and -then vanished in the gloom of twilight. -The progressive influence of the hour upon -the landscape was interesting; and the -shade of evening, under which we entered -Andernach, harmonized with the desolation -and silence of its old walls and the broken -ground around them. We passed a drawbridge -and a ruinous gateway, and were -sufficiently fatigued to be somewhat anxious -as to our accommodation. The English -habit of considering, towards the end of the -day's journey, that you are not far from -the cheerful reception, the ready attendance, -and the conveniences of a substantial inn, -will soon be lost in Germany. There, instead -of being in good spirits, during the -last stage, from such a prospect, you have to -consider, whether you shall find a room, -not absolutely disgusting, or a house with -any eatable provision, or a landlady, who -will give it you, before the delay and the -fatigue of an hundred requests have rendered -you almost incapable of receiving it. -When your carriage stops at the inn, you -will perhaps perceive, instead of the alacrity -of an English waiter, or the civility -of an English landlord, a huge figure, wrapt -in a great coat, with a red worsted cap on -his head, and a pipe in his mouth, stalking -before the door. This is the landlord. He -makes no alteration in his pace on perceiving -you, or, if he stops, it is to eye you -with curiosity; he seldom speaks, never -bows, or assists you to alight; and perhaps -stands surrounded by a troop of slovenly -girls, his daughters, whom the sound of -wheels has brought to the door, and who, -as they lean indolently against it, gaze at -you with rude curiosity and surprise.</p> - -<p>The drivers in Germany are all bribed -by the innkeepers, and, either by affecting -to misunderstand you, or otherwise, will -constantly stop at the door, where they are -best paid. That this money comes out of -your pocket the next morning is not the -grievance; the evil is, that the worst inns -give them the most, and a traveller, unless -he exactly remembers his directions, is -liable to be lodged in all the vilest rooms -of a country, where the best hotels have no -lodging so clean and no larder so wholesomely -filled as those of every half-way -house between London and Canterbury. -When you are within the inn, the landlord, -who is eager to keep, though not to accommodate -you, will affirm, that his is the inn -you ask for, or that the other sign is not -in the place; and, as you soon learn to believe -any thing of the wretchedness of the -country, you are unwilling to give up one -lodging, lest you should not find another.</p> - -<p>Our driver, after passing a desolate, half -filled place, into which the gate of Andernach -opened, entered a narrow passage, -which afterwards appeared to be one of -the chief streets of the place. Here he -found a miserable inn, and declared that -there was no other; but, as we had seen -one of a much better appearance, we were -at length brought to that, and, though with -some delay, were not ill accommodated, for -the night.</p> - -<p>Andernach is an antient town, and it is -believed, that a tower, which stands alone, -at one end of the walls, was built by -Drusus, of whom there are many traces in -walls and castles, intended to defend the -colonies, on this side of the Rhine, against -the Germans, on the other. The fortifications -can now be of little other use than to -authorise the toll, which travellers pay, for -entering a walled town; a tax, on account -of which many of the walls are supported, -though it is pretended, that the tax is to -support the walls. By their means also, the -Elector of Cologne collects here the last -of four payments, which he demands for -the privilege of passing the Rhine from -Urdingen to Andernach; and this is the -most Southern frontier town of his -dominions on the western side of the Rhine, -which soon after join those of the Elector -of Treves. Their length from hence to -Rheinberg is not less than ninety miles; -the breadth probably never more than -twenty.</p> - -<p>There is some trade, at Andernach, in -tiles, timber, and mill-stones, but the heaps -of these commodities upon the beach are -the only visible symptoms of the traffick; -for you will not see one person in the place -moving as if he had business to attract him, -or one shop of a better appearance, than an -English huckster's, or one man in the dress -of a creditable trader, or one house, which -can be supposed to belong to persons in -easy circumstances. The port contains, perhaps, -half a dozen vessels, clinker built, in -shape between a barge and a sloop; on the -quay, you may see two or three fellows, -harnessing half a dozen horses to a tow line, -while twenty more watch their lingering -manœuvres, and this may probably be the -morning's business of the town. Those, -who are concerned in it, say that they are -engaged in <i>commerce</i>.</p> - -<p>This, or something like it, is the condition, -as to trade, of all the towns we saw in -Germany, one or two excepted. They are -so far from having well filled, or spacious -repositories, that you can scarcely tell at -what houses there are any, till you are led -within the door; you may then wait long -after you are heard, or seen, before the -owner, if he has any other engagement, -thinks it necessary to approach you: if he -has what you ask for, which he probably -has not, unless it is something very ordinary, -he tells the price and takes it, with as -much sullenness, as if you were forcing the -goods from him: if he has not, and can -shew you only something very different, he -then considers your enquiry as an intrusion, -and appears to think himself injured by -having had the trouble to answer you. -What seems unaccountable in the manners -of a German trader, is, that, though he is -so careless in attending you, he looks as -much distressed, as vexed, if you do not -leave some money with him; but he probably -knows, that you can be supplied no -where else in the town, and, therefore, will -not deny himself the indulgence of his temper. -Even when you are satisfied, his manner -is so ill, that he appears to consider you -his dependent, by wanting something which -he can refuse. After perceiving, that this -is nearly general, the pain of making continual -discoveries of idleness and malignity -becomes so much greater than the inconvenience -of wanting any thing short of necessaries, -that you decline going into shops, -and wait for some easier opportunities of -supplying whatever you may lose upon the -road.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="X-COBLENTZ" id="X-COBLENTZ">COBLENTZ.</a></h3> - -<p>It is one post from Andernach hither, -over a road, as good as any in England. -Beyond the dominions of the Elector -of Cologne, the face of the country, on -this side of the Rhine, entirely changes its -character. The rocks cease, at Andernach, -and a rich plain commences, along which -the road is led, at a greater distance from -the Rhine, through corn lands and uninclosed -orchards. About a mile from Andernach, -on the other side of the river, the -white town of Neuwiedt, the capital of a -small Protestant principality, is seen; and -the general report, that it is one of the most -commercial places, on the Rhine, appeared -to be true from the cheerful neatness of the -principal street, which faces towards the -water. There were also about twenty small -vessels, lying before it, and the quay seemed -to be wide enough to serve as a spacious -terrace to the houses. The Prince's palace, -an extensive stone building, with a lofty -orangery along the shore, is at the end of -this street, which, as well as the greatest -part of the town, was built, or improved -under the auspices of his father; a wise -prince, distinguished by having negotiated, -in 1735, a peace between the Empire and -France, when the continuance of the war -had seemed to be inevitable. The same -benevolence led him to a voluntary surrender -of many oppressive privileges over his -subjects, as well as to the most careful protection -of commerce and manufactures. -Accordingly, the town of Neuwiedt has -been continually increasing in prosperity -and size, for the last fifty years, and the -inhabitants of the whole principality are said -to be as much more qualified in their characters -as they are happier in their conditions -than those of the neighbouring states. -But then there is the <i>wretchedness</i> of a deficiency -of game in the country, for the late -Prince was guilty of such an innovation as -to mitigate the severity of the laws respecting -it.</p> - -<p>The forest hills, that rise behind Neuwiedt -and over the rocky margin of the -river, extend themselves towards the more -rugged mountains of Wetteravia, which are -seen, a shapeless multitude, in the east.</p> - -<p>The river is soon after lost to the view -between high, sedgy banks; but, near Coblentz, -the broad bay, which it makes in -conjunction with the Moselle, is seen expanding -between the walls of the city and -the huge pyramidal precipice, on which -stands the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, or rather -which is itself formed into that fortress. -The Moselle is here a noble river, by which -the streams of a thousand hills, covered with -vines, pour themselves into the Rhine. -The antient stone bridge over it leads to the -northern gate of Coblentz, and the entrance -into the city is ornamented by several large -chateau-like mansions, erected to command -a view of the two rivers. A narrow street -of high, but antient houses then commences, -and runs through the place. Those, which -branch from it, extend, on each side, towards -the walls, immediately within which there -are others, that nearly follow their course -and encompass the city. Being built between -two rivers, its form is triangular, and -only one side is entirely open to the land; -a situation so convenient both for the purposes -of commerce and war, that it could -not be overlooked by the Romans, and was -not much neglected by the moderns, till -the industry of maritime countries and the -complicated constitution of the Empire reduced -Germany in the scale of nations. -This was accordingly the station of the first -legion, and the union of the two rivers gave -it a name; <i>Confluentia</i>. At the commencement -of the modern division of nations, the -successors of Charlemagne frequently resided -here, for the convenience of an intercourse -between the other parts of the Empire and -France; but, in the eleventh century, the -whole territory of Treves regained the distinction, -as a separate country, which the -Romans had given it, by calling the inhabitants -<i>Treveri</i>.</p> - -<p>Coblentz is a city of many spires, and has -establishments of chapters and monasteries, -which make the great pride of German -capitals, and are sometimes the chief objects, -that could distinguish them from the neglected -villages of other countries. The -streets are not all narrow, but few of them -are straight; and the same pavement serves -for the horses of the Elector and the feet of -his subjects. The port, or beach, has the -appearance of something more business than -that of Andernach, being the resort of -passage-vessels between Mentz and Cologne; -but the broad quay, which has been raised -above it, is chiefly useful as a promenade -to the visitors of a close and gloomy town. -Beyond the terrace stands the Elector's palace, -an elegant and spacious stone edifice, -built to the height of three stories, and inclosing -a court, which is large enough to be -light as well as magnificent. The front towards -the Rhine is simple, yet grand, the -few ornaments being so well proportioned -to its size, as neither to debase it by minuteness, -nor encumber it by vastness. An entablature, -displaying some allegorical figures -in bas relief, is supported by six Doric columns, -which contribute much to the majestic -simplicity of the edifice. The palace -was built, about ten years since, by the -reigning Elector, who mentions, in an inscription, -his attention to the architectural -art; and a fountain, between the building -and the town, is inscribed with a few words, -which seem to acknowledge his subjects as -beings of the same species with himself; -<span class="smallcaps">Clemens Winceslaus Vicinis Suis</span>.</p> - -<p>But the most striking parts of the view -from this quay are the rock and fortress of -Ehrenbreitstein, that present themselves immediately -before it, on the other side of the -river; notwithstanding the breadth of which -they appear, to rise almost perpendicularly -over Coblentz. At the base of the rock -stands a large building, formerly the palace -of the Electors, who chose to reside under -the immediate protection of the fortress, -rather than in the midst of their capital. -Adjoining it is the village of Ehrenbreitstein, -between which and Coblentz a flying -bridge is continually passing, and, with its -train of subordinate boats, forms a very -picturesque object from the quay. The -fortress itself consists of several tier of low -walls, built wherever there was a projection -in the rock capable of supporting them, or -wherever the rock could be hewn so as to -afford room for cannon and soldiers. The -stone, taken out of the mass, served for the -formation of the walls, which, in some -places, can scarcely be distinguished from -the living rock. Above these tier, which -are divided into several small parts, according -to the conveniences afforded by the -cliff, is built the castle, or citadel, covering -its summit, and surrounded by walls more -regularly continued, as well as higher. -Small towers, somewhat in the antient -form, defend the castle, which would be of -little value, except for its height, and for -the gradations of batteries between it and -the river. Thus protected, it seems impregnable -on that side, and is said to be not -much weaker on the other; so that the -garrison, if they should be willing to fire -upon Coblentz, might make it impossible -for an enemy to remain within it, except -under the cover of very high entrenchments. -This is the real defence of the -city, for its walls would presently fall before -heavy artillery; and this, it is believed, -might be preserved as long as the garrison -could be supplied with stores.</p> - -<p>We crossed the river from the quay to -the fortress, by means of the very simple -invention, a flying bridge. That, by which -part of the passage of the Waal is made at -Nimeguen, has been already mentioned; -this is upon the same principle, but on a -much larger scale. After the barges, upon -which the platform is laid, are clear of the -bank, the whole passage is effected with no -other labour than that of the rudder. A -strong cable, which is fastened to an anchor -at each side of the river, is supported across -it by a series of small boats; the bridge has -two low masts, one on each barge, and -these are connected at the top by a beam, -over which the cable is passed, being confined -so as that it cannot slip beyond them. -When the bridge is launched, the rapidity -of the current forces it down the Rhine -as far as the cable will permit: having -reached that point, the force, received from -the current, gives it the only direction of -which it is capable, that across the river, -with the cable which holds it. The steersman -manages two rudders, by which he -assists in giving it this direction. The voyage -requires nine or ten minutes, and the -bridge is continually passing. The toll, -which, for a foot passenger, is something -less than a penny, is paid, for the benefit -of the Elector, at an office, on the bank, -and a sentinel always accompanies the -bridge, to support his government, during -the voyage.</p> - -<p>The old palace of Ehrenbreitstein, deserted -because of its dampness, and from -the fear of its being overwhelmed by the -rock, that sometimes scatters its fragments -upon it, is now used as a barrack and -hospital for soldiers. It is a large building, -even more pleasantly situated than the new -one, being opposite to the entrance of the -Moselle into the Rhine; and its structure, -which has been once magnificent, denotes -scarcely any other decay, than all buildings -will shew, after a few years' neglect. The -rock has allowed little room for a garden, -but there are some ridiculous ornaments -upon a very narrow strip of ground, which -was probably intended for one.</p> - -<p>The only entrance into the fortress, on -this side, is by a road, cut in the solid rock, -under four gateways. It is so steep, that -we were compelled to decline the honour -of admission, but ascended it far enough to -judge of the view, commanded from the -summit, and to be behind the batteries, of -which some were mounted with large brass -cannon. Coblentz lies beneath it, as open -to inspection as a model upon a table. -The sweeps of the Rhine and the meanders -of the Moselle, the one binding the plain, -the other intersecting it, lead the eye towards -distant hills, that encircle the capacious -level. The quay of the city, with -the palace and the moving bridge, form an -interesting picture immediately below, and -we were unwilling to leave the rock for the -dull and close streets of Coblentz. On our -return, the extreme nakedness of the new -palace, which is not sheltered by trees, on -any side, withdrew our attention from the -motley group of passengers, mingled with -hay carts and other carriages, on the flying -bridge.</p> - -<p>The long residence of the emigrant -princes and noblesse of France in this city -is to be accounted for not by its general -accommodations, or gaieties, of which it is -nearly as deficient as the others of Germany; -but first by the great hospitality of -the Elector towards them, and then by the -convenience of its situation for receiving -intelligence from France, and for communicating -with other countries. The Elector -held frequent levies for the French nobility, -and continued for them part of the splendour -which they had enjoyed in their own -country. The readiness for lending money -upon property, or employments in France, -was also so great, that those, who had not -brought cash with them, were immediately -supplied, and those, who had, were encouraged -to continue their usual expences. We -know it from some of the best possible -authority, that, at the commencement of -the march towards Longwy, money, at -four per cent. was even pressed upon many, -and that large sums were refused.</p> - -<p>Here, and in the neighbourhood, between -sixty and seventy squadrons of cavalry, -consisting chiefly of those who had formerly -enjoyed military, or other rank, were -formed; each person being mounted and -equipped chiefly at his own expence. We -heard several anecdotes of the confidence, -entertained in this army, of a speedy arrival -in Paris; but, as the persons, to whom they -relate, are now under the pressure of misfortune, -there would be as little pleasure as -propriety in repeating them.</p> - -<p>At Coblentz, we quitted, for a time, the -left bank of the Rhine, in order to take the -watering place of Selters, in our way to -Mentz. Having crossed the river and ascended -a steep road, near the fortress, we -had fine glimpses of its walls, bastions and -out-towers, and the heathy knolls, around -them, with catches of distant country. The -way continued to lie through the dominions -of the Elector of Treves, which are here so -distinguished for their wretchedness as to be -named the <i>Siberia of Germany</i>! It is paved, -and called a <i>chaussée</i>; but those, who have -not experienced its ruggedness, can have -no idea of it, except by supposing the pavement -of a street torn up by a plough, and -then suffered to fix itself, as it had fallen. -Always steep, either in ascent or descent, it -is not only the roughness, that prevents -your exceeding the usual post-pace of three -English miles an hour. Sometimes it runs -along edges of mountains, that might almost -be called precipices, and commands short -views of other mountains and of vallies -entirely covered with thick, but not lofty -forests; sometimes it buries itself in the -depths of such forests and glens; sometimes -the turrets of an old chateau peep above -these, but rather confirm than contradict -the notion of their desolateness, having been -evidently built for the purposes of the -chace; and sometimes a mud village surprises -you with a few inhabitants, emblems -of the misery and savageness of the country.</p> - -<p>These are the mountains of Wetteravia, -the boundaries of many a former and far-seen -prospect, then picturesque, sublime, or -graceful, but now desolate, shaggy, and -almost hideous; as in life, that, which is so -grand as to charm at a distance, is often -found to be forlorn, disgustful and comfortless -by those, who approach it.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="MONTABAUR" id="MONTABAUR">MONTABAUR.</a></h3> - -<p>Six hours after leaving Coblentz, we -reached Montabaur, the first post-town on -the road, and distant about eighteen miles. -An ancient chateau, not strong enough to -be a castle, nor light enough to be a good -house, commands the town, and is probably -the residence of the lord. The walls and -gates shew the antiquity of Montabaur, but -the ruggedness of its site should seem to -prove, that there was no other place in the -neighbourhood, on which a town could be -built. Though it is situated in a valley, as -to the nearer mountains, it is constructed -chiefly on two sides of a narrow rock, the -abrupt summit of which is in the centre of -this very little place.</p> - -<p>The appearance of Montabaur is adequate -in gloominess to that of several before -seen; but it would be endless to repeat, as -often as they should be true, the descriptions -of the squalidness and decay, that characterise -German towns; nor should we have -noticed these so often, if the negligence of -others, in this respect, had not left us to -form deceitful expectations, suitable to the -supposed importance of several very conspicuous, -but really very wretched cities.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="LIMBOURG" id="LIMBOURG">LIMBOURG.</a></h3> - -<p>Over a succession of forest mountains, -similar to those just passed, we came, -in the afternoon, to Limbourg, another post-town, -or, perhaps, city, and another collection -of houses, like tombs, or forsaken hospitals. -At an inn, called the Three Kings, -we saw first the sullenness and then the ferocious -malignity of a German landlord -and his wife, exemplified much more fully -than had before occurred. When we afterwards -expressed our surprise, that the magistrates -should permit persons of such conduct -to keep an inn, especially where there -was only one, we learned, that this fellow -was himself the chief magistrate, or burgomaster -of the place; and his authority appeared -in the fearfulness of his neighbours -to afford any sort of refreshment to those, -who had left his inn. One of the Elector's -ministers, with whom we had the pleasure -to be acquainted, informed us, that he knew -this man, and that he must have been intoxicated, -for that, though civil when sober, -he was madly turbulent and abusive, if -otherwise. It appeared, therefore, that a -person was permitted to be a magistrate, -who, to the knowledge of government, was -exposed by his situation to be intoxicated, -and was outrageous, whenever he was so. -So little is the order of society estimated -here, when it is not connected with the -order of politics.</p> - -<p>Near Limbourg, the forest scenery, which -had shut up the view, during the day, disappeared, -and the country lost, at least, an -uniformity of savageness. The hills continue, -but they are partly cultivated. At -a small distance from the town, a steep ascent -leads to a plain, on which a battle was -fought, during the short stay of the French -in this district, in the campaign of 1792. -Four thousand French were advancing towards -Limbourg; a small Prussian corps -drew up to oppose them, and the engagement, -though short, was vivid, for the -Prussians did not perceive the superiority of -the French in numbers, till the latter began -to spread upon the plain, for the purpose -of surrounding them. Being then compelled -to retreat, they left several of the -Elector's towns open to contribution, from -which five-and-twenty thousand florins were -demanded, but the remonstrances of the -magistrates reduced this sum to 8000 florins, -or about 700l. The French then entered -Limbourg, and extended themselves over -the neighbouring country. At Weilbourg, -the residence of a Prince of the House of -Nassau, they required 300,000 florins, or -25,000l. which the Prince neither had, nor -could collect, in two days, through his -whole country. All his plate, horses, -coaches, arms and six pieces of cannon, -were brought together, for the purpose of -removal; but afterwards two individuals -were accepted as hostages, instead of the -Prince himself, who had been at first demanded. -The action near Limbourg took -place on the 9th of November, and, before -the conclusion of the month, the French -had fallen back to Franckfort, upon the re-approach -of the Prussian and Austrian -troops.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="SELTERS" id="SELTERS">SELTERS.</a></h3> - -<p>We had a curiosity to see this place, -which, under the name of Seltzer, is so -celebrated throughout Europe, for its medicinal -water. Though it is rather in the -high road to Franckfort than to Mentz, -there seemed no probability of inconvenience -in making this short departure from -our route, when it was to be joined again -from a place of such public access as Selters -appeared likely to be found.</p> - -<p>About seven miles from Limbourg, a -descent commences, at the bottom of which -stands this village. What a reproof to the -expectation of comfort, or convenience in -Germany! Selters, a spot, to which a valetudinarian -might be directed, with the -prospect of his finding not only abundant -accommodation, but many luxuries, Selters -is literally and positively nothing more than -an assemblage of miserable cottages, with -one inn and two houses for officers of the -Elector, stuck in a dirty pass, which more -resembles a ditch than a road. The village -may be said to be near half a mile -long, because the huts, being mostly separated -from each other, continue as far; -and this length would increase its inconvenience -to invalids, if such should ever stay -there longer than to see it, for there is nothing -like a swept path-way, and the road, -in which they must walk, is probably always -deeply covered with mud, being so -when we were there in the beginning of -July. There was then, however, not one -stranger, besides ourselves, in the place, and -we found, that very rarely any aggravate the -miseries of sickness by a stay at Selters.</p> - -<p>The only lodgings to be had are at the -inn, and fortunately for travellers this is -not such as might be expected from the appearance -of the village. Finding there the -novelty of an obliging host and hostess, we -were very well contented to have reached -it, at night, though we were to stay there -also the next day, being Sunday. The -rooms are as good as those in the inns of -German cities, and three, which are called -Court Chambers, having been used by the -Elector and lately by the King of Prussia, -are better. These are as open as the others -to strangers.</p> - -<p>The spring is at the foot of one of several -hills, which immediately surround the village, -and is separated from the road by a -small court yard. An oaken covering, at -the height of ten or twelve feet, prevents -rain from falling into the wooden bason, -in which the stream rises; and two or -three of the Elector's guards watch over it, -that no considerable quantity may be taken, -without payment of the duty, which forms -a large part of his income. Many thousands -of stone bottles are piled round this -court, and, for the reputation of the spring, -care is taken to fill them as immediately as -possible, before their removal for exportation.</p> - -<p>The policy of keeping this income intire -is said to be a motive for neglecting the -condition of the village. A duty could not -well be demanded of those, who should -drink at the spring, but is easily collected -before the water is bottled for removal; it -is, therefore, not wished, that there should -be many visitors, at Selters. We did not -hear this reason upon the spot, but it is -difficult otherwise to account for a negligence, -which prevents the inhabitants of -the neighbouring country from being -enriched at the expence of wanderers from -others.</p> - -<p>Nor is it only a duty, but the whole profit -of the traffick, till the water leaves the -place, which rewards the care of the Elector. -His office for the sale of it is established -here, and his agents alone transmit it -into foreign countries. The business is sufficient -to employ several clerks, and the -number of bottles annually filled is so immense, -that, having omitted to write it -down, we will not venture to mention it -from memory. The water is brought to -table constantly and at an easy price in all -the towns near the Rhine. Mixed with -Rhenish wine and sugar it forms a delightful, -but not always a safe beverage, in hot -weather. The acid of the wine, expelling -the fixed air of other ingredients, occasions -an effervescence, like that of Champagne, -but the liquor has not a fourth part of the -obnoxious strength of the latter. The danger -of drinking it is, that the acid may be -too powerful for some constitutions.</p> - -<p>After being surprised by the desolateness -of the village, we were not less so to find -amongst its few inhabitants one, whose -manners and information, so far from bearing -the character of the dreariness around -him, were worthy of the best society in the -most intelligent cities. This was the Commissary -and Privy Counsellor of the Elector -for the district, who, having heard, that -there were some English visitors at the well, -very frankly introduced himself to us by -his civilities, and favoured us with his company -in the afternoon. He had been in -England, with many valuable introductions, -and had formed from the talents and accomplishments -of a distinguished Marquis -an high opinion of the national character; -a circumstance, which probably united with -his natural disposition, in inducing him to -emulate towards us the general politeness of -that truly honourable person.</p> - -<p>When we enquired how the journey of -the next day was to be performed, it appeared, -that no other carriage could be -hired in the place than a sort of one-horse -chair, which would take us to the next post -town, from whence we might proceed with -the usual chaises. The driver walked at -the side of this uncouth carriage, which had -shafts and wheels strong enough for a waggon; -and, either by the mistake or intention -of his master in directing him, we were -led, not to the post town, for a chaise, if it -could be had, but entirely through a forest -country to Mentz, by roads made only -for the woodcutters, and, as it afterwards -proved, known to few others, except to our -ingenious voiturier. We did not pass a -town, or village, at which it was possible to -change the carriage, and had, therefore, no -other alternative, when the mistake was discovered, -than to return to Selters, or to proceed -to Mentz, in this inconvenient and -ludicrous vehicle. We chose to proceed, -and had some reward for fatigue, by passing -nearly an whole day under the shade of -deep and delightful forests, little tamed by -the hand of man, and appearing to acknowledge -only "the season's difference."</p> - -<p>Between Selters and these forests, the -country is well cultivated, and frequently -laid out in garden-fields, in which there -was the first appearance of cheerful labour -we had seen in Germany. After passing -a small town, on the summit of a hill to -the left, still surrounded by its antient fortifications, -we entered a large plain, skirted, -on one side, by villages; another town, at -the end of which, was almost the last sign -of an inhabited country, that appeared for -several hours. The forest then commenced, -and, with the exception of one hamlet, -enveloped near the middle, we saw nothing -but lofty oaks, elms and chesnuts, till we -emerged from it in the afternoon, and came -to a town of the Landgrave of Hesse Darmstadt. -Roebucks are said to be numerous, -and wild boars not very scarce, in this forest; -but we saw none either here, or in -those near Limbourg, which are much inferior -to this in beauty. Upon the whole, -it was a scene of perfect novelty; without -which it now seems that we should have -wanted many ideas of sylvan life and much -of the delight, excited by Shakespeare's exquisite -description of it.</p> - -<p>The country afterwards opens towards</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="MENTZ" id="MENTZ">MENTZ,</a></h3> - -<p>Which stands in a spacious plain, -on the opposite edge of the Rhine, and is -visible, at a considerable distance, with its -massy towers and numerous spires. Within -two or three miles of the city, the symptoms -of ruin, occasioned by the siege in 1793, -began to appear. A village, on the left, -had scarcely one house entire; and the -tower of the church was a mere wreck, -blackened by flames, and with large chasms, -that admitted the light. The road did not -pass nearer to it than two miles, but the -broken walls and roofs were distinguishable -even at that distance, and sometimes a part, -which had been repaired, contrasted its colour -with the black and smoky hues of the -remainder. This was the village of Kostheim, -so often contended for in the course -of the siege, being on the opposite bank of -the Rhine to the city, and capable of obstructing -the intercourse with it by water.</p> - -<p>The country on the eastern side of the -river was otherwise but little damaged, if -we except the destruction of numerous orchards; -for the allies were not strong -enough to besiege the city on all sides at -once, and contented themselves with occupying -some posts in this quarter, capable of -holding the garrison of Cassel in awe.</p> - -<p>This Cassel is a small village exactly opposite -to Mentz, and communicating with -it by a bridge of boats. It was unfortified -before the invasion of the French; but these -had no sooner entered the city, than they -perceived the importance of such a place, -and prepared themselves to render it a regular -fortress. In about two months they -completely surrounded it with earthen -works and outworks, ditched and pallisadoed. -Some of the nearest orchards were -cut down to be used in these fortifications. -The fruit trees still remain with their -branches upwards from the ditch, and serve -instead of <i>chevaux de frise</i>.</p> - -<p>The village of Hockheim, which is also -on this side of the Rhine, is further to the -left than Kostheim, and remains uninjured, -at the top of the round and easy hill, the -vines of which are so much celebrated for -their flavour, as to give a name to great -quantities of wine, produced in other districts. -After the siege, the merchants of -the neighbourhood enhanced the price of -their stocks by reporting, that all the vineyards -had been destroyed; but the truth is, -that Hockheim was not much contended -for, and that little damage was done even -to the crops then in bloom. The village is -advantageously situated about the confluence -of the Rhine and the Maine, and, if it had -been nearer the city, would probably have -been so important, as to have been contested, -till it was destroyed.</p> - -<p>This is the home ground of the scene, -which spreads before the traveller, who approaches -Mentz from the eastern shore of -the Rhine. Furthest to the left is Hockheim, -then the devastated village of Kostheim, -then the fortifications of Cassel, -which, with the river, are between him and -the city. Beyond, the horizon is bounded -on all sides by gradual hills, distant and -apparently fruitful; but those to the north -are pre-eminent, with gentle slopes at their -feet, coloured sweetly by corn, dark wood -and gleams of reddish earth.</p> - -<p>The works of Cassel render the approach -to the city very tedious, for they have been -so contrived as that the road nearly follows -them, in all their angles, for the purpose of -being commanded by many points at once. -The village was now garrisoned by Prussians, -of whom, some were lying under the -sheds of their guard-house near the bridge, -and others were riding over it, with just -speed enough to give one an idea of military -earnestness. Their horses shook the -floor of the bridge of boats, which here -crosses the Rhine, at its breadth of nearly -eight hundred feet, and disturbed the promenade, -for which it is usually frequented -in an evening. We followed them, admiring -the expanse, and rapidity of the -river more than the appearance of the city, -where gloominess is too much mingled -with grandeur; till, at the end of the -bridge, we were stopped at another guard-house, -to answer the usual enquiries. A -soldier accompanied us thence to a large -square filled with cannon and mortars, -where the captain of the guard examined -our passport. We were then very glad to -pass the evening at an inn without further -researches; but there were some symptoms -of the late condition of the city to attract -attention in the way.</p> - -<p>The Elector's palace, which forms one -side of this square, having been converted -into an hospital by the French, is still used -as such, or as a barrack, by the Prussians; -and the windows were crowded with the -figures of half-dressed soldiers. Many of -the cannon in the square remained with -the fractures, made by the balls of the besiegers. -This place communicates with a -broad street, in which were many buildings, -filled with soldiers, and an handsome house, -that, having belonged to one of the Clubbists, -was destroyed immediately after the -expulsion of the French. The walls still -remain bare and open. Some greater ruins, -occasioned by fire, during the siege, were -visible at a distance; and, upon the whole, -we had interest enough excited, as to the -immediate history of the place, to take little -notice of the narrow and difficult passages, -through which we wound for half an hour, -after leaving the principal street.</p> - -<p>The next morning, the friends, to whom -we had letters, began to conduct us through -the melancholy curiosities, left in the city -by the siege. These are chiefly in the -southern quarter, against which the direct -attack of the allies was made, and their -approaches most advanced. Some entire -streets have been destroyed here, and were -still in ruins. A magnificent church, attached -to a convent of Franciscan monks, is -among the most lamentable spectacles; what -was the roof now lies in heaps over the -pavement; not a vestige of furniture, or -decoration, has escaped the flames, and there -are chasms in the walls larger than the noble -windows, that once illuminated them. -This church and convent were set on fire -by a bomb; and of the sick soldiers, who -were lodged in the latter, it is feared that -but few were removed before the destruction -of the building. We next saw the remains -of a palace, built by the present -Provost of the Chapter of Nobles; an institution, -which is so rich, that their Superior -had a more elegant residence than the -Elector. It was of stone, and the principal -front was in the Corinthian order, six columns -of which supported a spacious open -gallery, ornamented with statues, for its -whole length. The wings formed two -sides of a square, which separated the palace -from the street. A profusion of the richest -furniture and a valuable collection of paintings -filled the interior. Of the whole edifice -little now remains but the shattered -walls of the centre, which have been so -scorched as to lose all appearance of having -belonged to a splendid structure. It was -burnt the night before the fire of the Franciscan -church, and two nights after the -French had removed their head quarters -and their municipality from it. On the day -before the removal, a bomb had fallen upon -the French General Blou, destroying him -on the spot, and mortally wounding an -officer, with whom he was conversing. -The ruins are now so accumulated over the -court-yard, that we could not discern it to -have ever had that appendage of a distinguished -residence.</p> - -<p>But the church of Notre Dame was the -most conspicuous of many ruined objects. -The steeple of this had been one of the -grandest ornaments of the city; a shower -of bombs set fire to it; and, while it was -thus rendered an easy mark for the besiegers, -their cannon played upon and beat -a great part of it to the ground. By its fall -the roof of the church was shattered, but -the body did not otherwise suffer any material -injury. Wooden galleries have been -raised round the remainder of the steeple, -not for the purpose of repairing, but for -that of entirely removing it; and, to save -the trouble of letting down the stones on -the outside, a wooden pipe, or channel has -been made, through which they are lowered -into the church. The appearance of this -steeple, which was once very large and -lofty, is rendered striking by these preparations -for its total destruction.</p> - -<p>The whole church is built of a stone, dug -from the neighbouring hills, the colour of -which is so delicate a pink, that it might be -supposed to be given by art. The Elector's -palace and several other public buildings in -the city are formed of this stone.</p> - -<p>Passing through the gates on this side of -Mentz, we came to a slope near the river, -and beyond the glacis of the place, which -was then partly covered with huge masses -of stone scattered among the roots of broken -trees and shrubs, that had begun again to -shoot their verdure over the amputated -trunks. This was the site of a palace of -the Elector, called, both from the beauty -of its situation, and the splendour of its -structure, La Favorita. The apartments of -the palace and the terraces of the garden -commanded extensive views of the Rhine -and the surrounding country ascending from -its banks; and the gardens themselves were -so beautifully disposed as to be thought -worthy of the name of English. They -were ornamented with pavilions, which had -each its distinct prospect, and with one -music room in the thickest part of the -shrubbery. Of the building nothing is now -visible but some disjointed stones; and of -the garden, only the broken trunks of trees. -The palace was burned and the gardens -levelled by the French, that they might not -afford shelter to the Prussians, during the -siege.</p> - -<p>From this spot we were shewn the positions -of the allied forces, the course of their -approaches and the chief outworks of the -city. Hockheim, Kostheim and Cassel lay -before us, on the other side of the river; -a gentle rise on this side, at the distance of -nearly a mile, was the first station of the -allies, part of whose force was covered behind -it; their last batteries were within two -hundred and fifty paces of the city. The -ground had been since levelled, and was -now covered with standing corn, but the -track of the trenches was, in some places, -visible. On the other hand, the forts, in -which the strength of the whole so much -consists, were completely repaired, and had -no appearance of having been so lately attacked. -They are five in number, and, -being raised at a considerable distance from -the walls of the city, no near approaches -can be made, till some of them are either -taken, or destroyed; for they are said to be -regular and strong fortifications, capable of -containing numerous garrisons, and communicating -with the city itself by passages, -cut in the ground, through which they -may be constantly reinforced.</p> - -<p>Only one of these five forts, that nearest -to the river, was destroyed in the late siege, -which would have been much more tedious, -but for the want of provisions and medicines, -that began to be felt in the garrison. -The walls of the city were almost uninjured, -so that it has not been thought necessary -to repair them in the few places, -where balls may be perceived to have -struck. The bombardment was the chief -annoyance of the garrison, who were not -sheltered in caserns, and whose magazines, -both of ammunition and provision, were -frequently destroyed by it. Their numbers -were also greatly reduced by sallies and by -engagements, on the other side of the -Rhine, in defence of Cassel, or in attack of -part of an island, called the Bleiau.</p> - -<p>We walked round the city upon what is -termed the <i>glacis</i>, that is upon the slope, -which ascends from the plain towards the -top of the ditch, and which is the furthest -of the defensive works, being very gradually -raised, that those, who are upon it, may -be exposed, at every step, to the fire from -the walls. The forts, which are formed -of solid earthen works, covered with turf, -would scarcely attract the notice of an unmilitary -eye, if the channelled passages to -them did not issue from this slope, and if -the sentinels, stalking upon the parapets, did -not seem of a gigantic size, by having their -whole figures raised against the light.</p> - -<p>Mentz was at this time the depôt of -stores for the Prussian army on the Rhine, -and there were persons employed upon the -<i>glacis</i>, in counting heaps of cannon balls, -which had been delivered from some neighbouring -foundery. On the bank of the -river, others were throwing waggon-loads -of hay into large barges, on which it was -piled to such an height, that small passages -were cut through it for the rowers to work -in. There were nine or ten barges so -filled; and in these labours more activity -was apparent than in any other transactions -we saw at Mentz.</p> - -<p>Having passed round the city, between -the walls and the forts, which protect them, -to the north, west and south, we came, at -this latter side, to some other signals of a -theatre of war. Here had been a noble -alley of at least a mile and a half long, -formed of poplars as large and high as elms, -and surrounded, on each side, by plantations, -intersected by small and irregular -walks. Being led along the banks of the -Rhine, this alley, with its adjoining groves, -afforded a most delightful promenade, and -was classed amongst the best ornaments, -given to the river, in its whole course. -This also was destroyed upon the approach -of the besiegers, that it might not afford -them shelter. The trunks of the sturdy -trees, cut at the height of one or two feet -from the ground, shew, by their solidity -and the abundance of their vigorous shoots, -how long they might have flourished, but -for this disaster.</p> - -<p>An Englishman, walking amidst the ensigns -of such artificial and premature desolation, -cannot help considering the natural -security of his country, and rejoicing, that, -even if the strong and plain policy of -neglecting all foreign consequence, and avoiding -all foreign interests, except the commercial -ones, which may be maintained by -a navy, should for ever be rejected, still his -home cannot be invaded; and, though the -expence of wars should make poverty general, -the immediate horrors of them cannot -enter the cities, or the cottages of an -island.</p> - -<p>Great part of our time at Mentz was -occupied by enquiries concerning the siege, -which was not so much a topic as we had -expected to find it. We probably heard, -however, all that was to be told, and had a -German pamphlet recommended, containing -the history of the place from the first -invasion of the French to their departure. -The authenticity of this was assured to us; -and it is partly from it, partly from the accounts -given by our friends, that the following -short narrative has been extracted.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="X-OF_MENTZ_IN_1792_AND_1793" id="X-OF_MENTZ_IN_1792_AND_1793">OF MENTZ IN 1792 AND 1793.</a></h3> - -<p>The entrance of a French army into -Worms, in the beginning of October 1792, -had excited a considerable alarm in Mentz, -before the inhabitants of the latter city received -the accounts, which were not long -wanting, of express and avowed preparations -for a march towards them. Great -numbers of French emigrants had been -drawn to the city by the meeting of the -Emperor and the King of Prussia there, a -few months before; many had arrived since -the dissolution of their army in Champagne; -and, during the approach of the -Republican troops to Spires and Worms, -families were continually passing through -the city, joining those, who began to take -their flight from it. The narrow streets -were filled with carriages, and the distressful -haste of the travellers served to depress -the spirits of the inhabitants, who saw how -little their city was thought capable of defence. -On the 15th of October, Baron -d'Albini, a counsellor of the Court, called -the Burgesses together, and admonished -them to make preparations for their security; -he also enquired, whether they thought -it prudent, that the Elector should remain -in the city with them? and, it being readily -answered, that they did not, the Elector set -out for Wurtzburg, a town about 100 miles -distant, and was followed by the members -of the government. At the same time, a -considerable emigration of the other inhabitants -took place.</p> - -<p>The approach of the French had been so -little foreseen, till within the few last weeks, -that the garrison did not amount to a tenth -part of the war complement. The inhabitants, -however, having happily had little -experience of sieges, did not know what this -complement should be, and, after the first -alarm, began to think the deficiency might -be easily remedied. The Electoral troops, -having sent some useless detachments to -Spires, amounted to only 968 men, to -whom an hundred were added, obtained -from Nassau, Oranien, Weilburg, Bieberich -and Fuld by the Elector's demands of assistance -from his neighbours. Two hundred -and seven Austrian hussars of Esterhazy had -also arrived, on the 13th, and all the inhabitants -of the Rheingau, a populous district, -bordering upon the Rhine, were summoned -to the assistance of the capital. The -antient society of Archers of the city laid -down their bows for musquets; the Academicians -formed themselves into a corps, -and were placed, together with the Archers, -at several outposts. The traders, though -exempt from personal service, and unwilling -to surrender that privilege, resolved to -pay double watch-money for substitutes. -It began to be thought, that the threatened -progress of the French had been untruly -reported; that the siege could not be commenced -at that late season of the year; and -lastly, that some promised reinforcements of -Austrian troops could not be far off.</p> - -<p>But, on the 19th of October, the French, -in four columns, began to surround the place. -They wore, at first, white cockades, expecting -to be mistaken for the army of M. de -Condé; they were, however, known, and -fired upon. Though some days had been -passed in preparation, it was now found, -that there was little readiness for defence. -The best artillerymen had been lost at -Spires; there were, at first, no horses to -draw the cannon, so that oxen were used -for that purpose; the nearest balls to the -batteries of twenty-four pound cannon were -cast for twelve-pounders; and many of the -musquet cartridges could not be fired. In -a few hours, however, several of the artisans -applied themselves to the making of -cartridges; horses were supplied by the servants -of the Court and the Nobility, and all -hands were, in some way or other, employed. -It was then reported, that a corps -of Austrian troops was in the neighbourhood, -and, on the 19th, 1800 men entered -the city. These were recruits without ammunition, -and, for the most part, without -arms, being on their march to join the -army of the Emperor. They were then -under the command of two or three subalterns; -but some other Imperial officers -came in from the neighbourhood, and arms -were obtained from the Elector's arsenal. -After this reinforcement there were probably -about four thousand men in arms in -the city.</p> - -<p>With this force, it is allowed, that a -much longer defence than was made might -have been expected; and, unless there was -some failure of the commander's attention, -the treachery of an engineer, to whom the -surrender is imputed, could certainly not -have been so effectual. <span class="smallcaps">Eikenmayer</span>, this -engineer, had, it seems, made known to the -French the commander's preparations for -defence; intelligence, which, if the preparations -had been greater, could have been -but little serviceable to the assailants. His -chief assistance was afforded to them by -much more conspicuous means; for, as the -inhabitants went frequently to a building -called St. Stephen's Tower, to observe the -progress of the besiegers, he assured them, -that the army, which really amounted only -to eleven thousand men, consisted of forty -thousand; that they had with them two-and-twenty -waggons, laden with scaling -ladders, and that the city would presently -be taken by storm. The same representations -of the besiegers' force were also made -by him to the Council of War; and these, -it is said, determined them to the surrender, -before the French had raised a battery -against the works.</p> - -<p>Many of the citizens, however, were surprised -and enraged at this resolution; and -the captain of the Austrian reinforcements -expressed his displeasure, at the Council -House, where he declared, that he would -continue to defend the place, even without -permission. In the mean time, the capitulation -was signed, and he was induced to -submit to it by the solicitations even of the -citizens, by whom it was blamed, and by -their representations, that, in the present -agitated temper of the inhabitants, all attempts -at defence must be useless.</p> - -<p>Baron d'<span class="smallcaps">Albini</span> carried news of the surrender -to the Elector, at Wurtzburg, and, -about five o'clock, on the 21st of October, -two French officers came to the Council -House, followed by two companies of grenadiers. -On the 22d, eight thousand French -entered the city, the other three thousand -having marched, the preceding day, to -Franckfort; the inhabitants, astonished to -find themselves taken by so small a force, -now saw, to their still greater surprise, that -their conquerors had scarcely any heavy -cannon. This day was passed in assigning -quarters to the troops, and, on the next, -Custine, the commander of the French, -called the members of the City Council together, -to whom, in a short speech, he promised -the protection of persons and properties, -inviting them, at the same time, to -promote the fraternization of the inhabitants -with the French nation. Professor -<span class="smallcaps">Bohmer</span>, who had accepted the office of -his Secretary, translated this address into -German, and it was circulated through the -city.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable, that the French had no -sooner taken possession of this sudden prize, -than they began to foresee the probability -of being reduced to defensive measures, and -to prepare for them. They immediately -collected contributions of forage and corn -from the neighbouring villages; the streets -were rendered almost impassable by the -loads brought in; and, as the magazines -were soon filled, great quantities were wasted -by being exposed to the rain in gardens, -and trodden under the feet of horses in the -streets. The garrison was soon increased -to 20,000 men, of whom sometimes three -hundred sometimes five hundred were -lodged in each convent. The French soldiery -having committed some excesses, -Custine reproved their licentiousness, and -began to habituate them to discipline by -ordering a retirement to their quarters, at -certain hours, by beat of drum.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants soon began to suspect -the contrivance and the persons, that had -produced the surrender; for Eikenmayer -lived in intimacy with Custine; Professor -Metternich, of the Academy of Mentz, -mounted the French cockade; and the -Elector's physician, having left the city, -upon a promise of assisting some peasants, -whom he asserted to be seized with an infectious -fever, had carried on a correspondence -with the French, as had <span class="smallcaps">Patoki</span>, a -merchant, born at Colmar, who had lately -received the right of citizenship.</p> - -<p>The palaces of the Elector and the Provost -were now ransacked; and, though it -had been published as a rule, that the property -of private individuals should not be -touched, the houses of the nobility were -treated, as if they had belonged to the -Prince. The profligacy and pride of Custine -became every day more conspicuous, -and were oppressive upon the garrison, as -well as the inhabitants, though in a less degree. -Johannesberg, a village upon the -Rhine, at the distance of a few miles, is -celebrated for its wines, which sell for -three times the price of those of Hockheim. -Custine sent a part of the garrison solely to -bring him the wines from the cellars of -the Prince of Fuld, who has a palace there; -but, a compromise being proposed, the -negotiation was protracted so long, that a -Prussian corps, for which the Prince had -sent, carried Johannesberg, before the terms -were concluded. The Prince saved his -money, and lost only eighteen barrels of -wine, of which part was sent to Paris, and -the rest supplied the entertainments given -by Custine.</p> - -<p>Those of the Germans, who attached -themselves to Custine, supplied him with information -of the state of the whole country. -His Secretary, Professor Bohmer, had begun -the institution of a Club so early as -the 22d of October; but this society is -thought to have become inconvenient, and -they soon after began to prepare for a National -Convention in Mentz.</p> - -<p>In the mean time, Cassel was surveyed, -and the fortifications, for which Eikenmayer -is said to have furnished the design, -were commenced. The neighbouring peasants -were summoned to work at these, at -the price of fifteen French sous, or about -seven pence halfpenny a day; and intrenchments -were thrown round Kostheim.</p> - -<p>On the 17th of December, Custine published -a proclamation, in which he stated, -that, whereas some persons had supposed -the King of Prussia to have so little respect -for his character as to have invited him to -a surrender, none should presume, on pain -of death, to speak of such a measure, in -future. This proclamation gave the inhabitants -of Mentz information, that the Prussians -were approaching. Some German -troops had, indeed, begun by degrees to -occupy the ground about Coblentz, but in -a condition, which did not promise active -measures, being weakened by a long march -and by sickness; the Hessians posted themselves -between Hanau and Franckfort; and -the Prussians advanced so near to the latter -city, that the scattered parties of the French -retired to, and at length lost it.</p> - -<p>About this time, an Electoral Professor of -Philosophy and a Canon of Mentz, named -Dorsel, who had left his posts, in the preceding -year, to be naturalized, at Strasbourg, -returned with a design for an union -of Spires, Worms and Mentz into one territory, -under the protection of the French. -He procured the substitution of a Municipality -for the City Council. He obtained -considerable influence in the city; and, on -the 1st of January 1793, when the three -Commissioners of the Convention, Reubell, -Merlin and Haussman, entered Mentz, and -were received by Custine with military -honours, they shewed more attention to -the Professor than to the General.</p> - -<p>The Prussian head quarters had been -established within a short distance of Mentz; -but, during all December, there had been -only affairs of advanced posts, so that some -tranquillity prevailed in the city. On the -6th of January, Hockheim was assailed by -six thousand Prussians; the French, however, -had been informed of the preparations -for attack, and had time to retire to Kostheim -and Cassel, leaving 112 prisoners and -twelve pieces of cannon. Some French, -who had concealed themselves in the church -tower, were thrown headlong from it, for -having shouted, or thrown stones at the -King of Prussia, as he passed.</p> - -<p>After this, another month passed, without -hostile attempts on either side. The -Prussian troops were refreshed by rest; the -French passed the same time, partly in balls, -to which all the ladies of Mentz were invited, -and partly in preparations for defence. -On the 17th of January, a small -tree of liberty, which had been planted in -November, was removed, and a fir, seventy -feet high, placed in its stead, with much -ceremony. All the inhabitants were pressingly -invited, upon this occasion; Messrs. -Reubell, Merlin, Haussman and Custine -attended; the Mayor, Municipality, and -the Members of the Clubs followed; the -ensigns of the former government were -burned; Custine called upon the music of -the garrison for French airs, which occupied -the rest of the day; and the evening -concluded with entertainments and dancing. -Soon after, the Commissioners left the city, -and proceeded on a journey to the Moselle.</p> - -<p>On the 16th of February, Custine published -a proclamation, and two new Commissioners, -who had just arrived, issued -another, founded upon a decree of the -French Convention, relative to the union -of other countries with France. The Council -House was full from morning till night; -the assembled traders declared their -adherence to the Germanic system; and the -new Commissioners seemed inclined to listen -to their remonstrances. But, when the three -former Commissioners returned, they treated -the Deputies of the trades with great -haughtiness, and refused them permission to -send agents to Paris. A second deputation, -on the 22d of February, was no better received, -and they were informed, that the -24th was the day for the commencement -of the new form. The traders are described -to have been much affected, at the return -of their Deputies. On the 23d of -February, early in the morning, the author -of a remonstrance, which had been presented, -was arrested and carried into banishment, -being accompanied by guards to the -advanced posts of the Prussians, at Hockheim.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants now began to leave the -city by passports, which were, however, not -easily procured, or used. A proclamation -by the Municipality divided Mentz into -sections, and directed the manner, in which -each section should elect a representative, -on the 24th. On that day, the streets were -unusually silent, all the former burgesses -having resolved to remain in their houses, -except one, and only 266 persons met to -take the new oath and to make the new -elections. On the 25th, another proclamation -came out, and several banishments succeeded; -but the burgesses still adhered to -their resolution. The Municipality, on the -1st of March, again invited them to take -the new oaths, and gave notice of an order -of the Commissioners to the Mayor, to -publish a list of the sworn and unsworn, on -the Monday or Tuesday following. Notwithstanding -this, the number of sworn did -not equal 350.</p> - -<p>Some of the neighbouring villages, which -were visited by the French Commissioners, -accepted their terms; the greater part refused -them.</p> - -<p>At Worms, where clubs, similar to those -at Mentz, had been formed, 1051 persons -took the oaths. The inhabitants of Bingen -refused them.</p> - -<p>In the mean time, some expeditions were -made into the Palatinate, and corn, to the -amount of sixty thousand florins, was taken -away, before the reiterated remonstrances of -the Palatine Resident at Mentz, upon the -subject of his master's neutrality, could restrain -them. In the first days of February, -the French had also entered Deux Ponts, -where the Duke relied so much upon his -having supplied only his contingent to the -treasure of the Empire, that he had not -left his palace, though he knew of their approaches -to his country. On the 9th, at -eleven at night, the Duke and Duchess fled, -with the utmost precipitation, to Manheim, -having left the palace only one hour before -the French entered it. Great quantities of -forage were swept away from this country, -and brought to Mentz, which the allies -now approached so nearly, that the garrison -hastily completed the fortifications of Cassel, -and filled the magazines with stores, lest -the communication should be cut off by the -destruction of the bridge.</p> - -<p>On the 15th of February, they had begun -to destroy the palace of <i>La Favorita</i>, -and to erect a battery upon its ruins. -Though the carriage of provisions now occupied -so much of their attention, a great -number of large and small cannon were -brought from Landau; fresh troops arrived, -and General Wimpfen, who had defended -Thionville against the King of Prussia, was -declared the first in command. By banishments -and emigration, the number of persons -in the city was reduced fifteen thousand.</p> - -<p>The new National Assembly met in -Mentz, on the 10th of March, that city -having chosen six deputies, Spires two, -Worms two, and some other places one -each. On the 17th, they had their first -sitting, and, on the 18th, declared all the -country between Landau and Bingen, which -places were then the limits of the French -posts near the Rhine, united in one independent -state. On the 19th, was agitated -the great question relative to the connections -of this state, and it was not till the -21st, that they declared their incorporation -with the French. Three deputies, <span class="smallcaps">Forster</span>, -<span class="smallcaps">Patoki</span> and <span class="smallcaps">Lucks</span> were appointed, -the next day, to carry this resolution to -Paris; and several decrees, relative to the -interior administration of this state, were -passed, in consequence of which many persons -were conducted over the bridge into -banishment, on the 30th.</p> - -<p>Accounts now arrived, that the siege -would shortly commence, and orders were -issued, relative to the prevention of fires, to -the collection of stores of provisions by -each family, and to several other domestic -particulars. All the inhabitants, those especially -in the neighbourhood of the granaries, -were directed to preserve large quantities -of water; and the proprietors of gardens -within the city were ordered to plant -them with herbs. Officers were sent round -to examine these gardens. Already each -family had been admonished to provide -subsistence for seven months; and the richer -class were now directed to furnish a loan -to the burgesses, that the latter might be -enabled to provide for the poor. In consequence -of this order, 38,646 florins 10 -creitzers, or about 3200l. were collected, -and expended for provisions. The gardens -and walks round the city were now dismantled -of their trees, of which those in -the <i>Rheinallee</i>, before mentioned, were an -hundred years old. All the summer-houses -and villas, within cannon shot of the city, -were destroyed.</p> - -<p>On the 8th of March, the French garrison -in the fortress of Konigstein, which the -Prussians had blockaded for some months, -surrendered. In this month also other advances -were made towards Mentz. The -Prussian General Schonfield brought 12,000 -men into the neighbourhood of Hockheim, -near which the Saxons were posted; the -King of Prussia, his son and the Duke of -Brunswick, who had passed part of the -winter at Franckfort, left it, on the 23d -of March; a bridge was laid, at St. Goar, -over which numerous bodies of Prussian -troops passed the Rhine; the French fell -back towards Bingen, and the Prussians occupied -a hill, not far from it. On the 28th, -they were closer pressed, and left all the -villages in the neighbourhood of Bingen, -from which place they were driven, the -next day, by a bombardment.</p> - -<p>At the same time, a similar retreat towards -Mentz also took place from the -southward. At Worms, during the abandonment, -great quantities of hay and straw -were burned, and the burgesses kept watch, -all night, dreading the conflagration of the -whole city by the flames, rising from the -magazines. Immense masses of hay and -straw were also burned at Frankenthal, -where there had been a garrison, during the -whole winter; but the corn was carried -away. At Spires, early on the 31st of -March, the burgesses and troops were employed -in throwing the hay and straw from -the magazines into the ditch; but it appeared -that even this mode would not be -expeditious enough, and fire was at length -set to the whole store at once.</p> - -<p>In the retreat from Oppenheim, though -the French were under considerable difficulties, -they were upon the point of obtaining -what they would have thought an abundant -reward for them. It was on the 30th of -March, that their cavalry and flying artillery -took the road by Alsheim. As this -was a place capable of making some defence, -and there were Prussian troops visible -at the gates, they began the attack by planting -cannon, and directing a vigorous fire -upon it. The King of Prussia, who was at -dinner in the town, and had not an hundred -men with him, received his first intelligence -of their approach from this fire. -He immediately rode out, on the opposite -side, and, sending some hussars to the spot, -the French did not continue the contest, -but made their retreat by another road. -If they had known how few troops were in -the town, they would, of course, have -entered it without commencing this fire; -and the Prussian officers agree, that, if they -had done so, there would have been little -chance of saving their monarch. Had they -been aware also, that his Prussian Majesty -was there, they might have reduced this -slight chance to an impossibility; for they -were sufficiently numerous to have surrounded -the town, and had approached so -quietly, that they were not known to be -near it. The Prussians had no cannon, and -the French were otherwise greatly superior; -though, having no other purpose for entering -the town, than to continue their retreat, -they did not wait to contest it, but -retired by another road. That a circumstance, -which would have had such an effect -upon the affairs of Europe, should have depended -upon so slight a chance as this, we -could not have believed, if the story had -not been confirmed to us by ample authority.</p> - -<p>The garrison of Mentz was increased by -these retreats to 23,000 men; General -Kalkreuth, who commanded the blockade from -Laubenheim to Budenheim, a distance of -twelve miles, had only 16,000 men. General -Schonfield, with his corps of observation, -was at Hockheim. The besiegers, -however, presently amounted to 30,000 -men. It is remarkable, that, though the -French retreated from several quarters, at -once, and in many small columns, not one -of these was effectually interrupted by the -Prussian commander.</p> - -<p>Upon intelligence of these advances, the -Elector of Mentz paid a visit to the King -of Prussia, at his head quarters, and left -his minister, the Baron d'<span class="smallcaps">Albini</span>, to attend -to the affairs of the recovered places.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of April, the blockade -was more closely pressed, and the preparations -for the siege seriously commenced. -General d'<span class="smallcaps">Oyré</span> was made commander in -the city, with a Council of sixteen persons, -to assist him in restoring the means of its -defence. A person was placed at the top -of an high building, called Stephen's -Tower, with glasses, which enabled him to -overlook the country for nine miles round. -He had a secretary with him, that his -view might never be unnecessarily diverted, -and was obliged to make a daily report of -his observations. The beating of drums -and ringing of bells were forbidden throughout -the whole city, that the besiegers might -not know in what quarters the corps de -garde were placed, or what churches were -left without the military. All prospect -houses and trees within the walls, which -could serve as marks to the fire without, -were ordered to be demolished. Many -days were passed in bringing further stores -of provisions into the city; after which an -account of the stock was taken, and there -were found to be</p> - -<table summary="stock"> -<tr><td align="right">24,090</td><td align="left">sacks of wheat.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1,465</td><td align="left">of other corn.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">996</td><td align="left">of mixed grain.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">———</td><td align="left"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Of which 26,551 sacks, it was stated, that -23,070 sacks of meal could be made. To -this was to be added in sifted meal of -wheat 109 sacks, of other corn 45 sacks, -of mixed grain 10,076 sacks; making in -all 33,300 sacks of meal. There were -besides</p> - -<table summary="stores"> -<tr><td align="right">43,960</td><td align="left">rations of biscuit.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">7,275</td><td align="left"> of rice.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">13,045</td><td align="left">of dried herbs.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">Of forage, 10,820</td><td align="left">quintals of hay.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">54,270</td><td align="left">of straw.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1,518</td><td align="left">sacks of oats.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">2,503</td><td align="left">of barley.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The Council estimated, that the garrison -had corn enough for nine months, rice for -seven, and herbs for six. There were fifteen -hundred horses, and it was reckoned, -that the straw was enough for ten months, -the oats for four-and-twenty days, and the -barley for eighty days. The garrison was -numbered, and found to consist of 22,653 -persons; of whom to each soldier was allotted, -for the future, 24 ounces of bread, -per day, in lieu of 28, and 4 ounces of -fresh meat, or 3 ounces of salt, in lieu of -8 ounces of fresh. The allowance of the -sick in the hospitals was changed from -twelve to eight ounces.</p> - -<p>During these preparations for a long -siege, the diminution of the number of inhabitants, -by means of the clubs, was pursued. -On the 8th of April, all persons, not -useful to the army, were ordered to leave -the city, unless they would take the new -oath; at the same time, it was said, that on -account of the foreseen want of money, -the soldiers, employed on the works, would -be no longer paid, but the other workmen -would continue to receive their salaries.</p> - -<p>The garrison made their first sortie, on -the night of the 10th and 11th, proceeding -towards the Rhine. Kostheim was immediately -taken, and the attack upon the Hessians -succeeded, at first, but a reinforcement -compelled the French to retire. About this -time, the Commissioner Reubell went to -Oppenheim, where he delivered a proposal -for peace to the King of Prussia.</p> - -<p>The village of Weissenau was contended -for, on the 15th, 16th and 17th, and finally -destroyed, the French soldiers, who remained -upon the spot, subscribing 460 livres for -the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>On the 18th, nearly the whole of a -French convoy of 90 waggons was taken -by the Prussians. On the 20th the Imperialists -erected a small fort on a point of -land, near the Main, and the French, on -the other hand, perfected a battery, at Kostheim, -with which they set on fire some -stables.</p> - -<p>The price of provisions was already so -much increased in the city, that salt butter -cost 48 creitzers, or 16d. pence per pound.</p> - -<p>In the night of the 28th and 29th, the -French landed in three vessels, and destroyed -a battery, erected near the Main. -On the 1st of May, at one in the morning, -they attacked the Prussians, at Hockheim, -and set the village of Kostheim on fire. -The Prussians repulsed them with loss, but -they remained in Kostheim, notwithstanding -the fire, which continued for three -days; they were then expelled by the -Prussians, but soon returned with reinforcements, -and a sanguinary contest commenced, -at the end of which they continued -to be masters of the village. A numerous -garrison was placed in it, which, on the -8th, was again attacked by the Prussians, -but without effect. Thus the greatest part -of May was spent in contests for villages -and posts, in which the French were -generally the assailants. In the night of the -30th, they beat up, in three columns, the -Prussian head quarters, at Marienborn. -Having marched barefooted and with such -exact information, that they passed all the -batteries unperceived, they entered the village -itself, without resistance, and, it is supposed, -would have surprised the commander, -if they had not fired at his windows, beat -their drums, and begun to shout <i>Vive la -Nation!</i> Three balls, which entered the -apartment of General <span class="smallcaps">Kalkreuth</span>, admonished -him to quit it, and a sentinel -stepped up just in time to shoot a French -soldier, who had seized him. Prince Louis -Ferdinand of Prussia immediately arrived -with some troops, and the French began -to retire, leaving thirty prisoners and twenty -killed of 6000, engaged in the enterprise. -The loss of the Prussians was considerable; -amongst the rest Captain Voss, a -relative of Mademoiselle Voss, well known -in the Court of Prussia.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of June, the allowance to the -garrison was ordered to be two pounds of -bread and one bottle of wine for each soldier, -per day.</p> - -<p>In the night of the 6th and 7th, the cannonade -was very fierce, on both sides; in -Mentz a powder magazine was fired by a -bomb, and blew up with a dreadful explosion.</p> - -<p>The scarceness of provisions increased, so -that a pound of fresh butter cost six shillings. -Horseflesh began to be consumed -in many families.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 9th and 10th of -June, the garrison made four sorties, which -ended in considerable loss, on both sides, -and in the retirement of the French into -the city. On the 10th, they attacked, at -eight in the morning, a post near Gonsenheim, -retreating without loss, after killing -an officer and several men. This was their -first sally in open day-light.</p> - -<p>General Meusnier, who had been wounded -near Cassel, on the 7th, died on the -13th, and was buried the next day, within -the new fortifications, all the officers of the -garrison, with the members of the convention -and clubs, attending.</p> - -<p>Some fire ships were now completed, -which a Dutch engineer had conducted -from Holland, to be employed by the besiegers -in burning the bridge of boats over -the Rhine. It was thought, however, that -their explosion would damage the city unnecessarily, -and they were rejected. In the -night of the 15th, one of these floated down -the river, whether by accident, or by the -connivance of the inventor, is not known; -the inhabitants were in the utmost terror, -but it struck against the quay, and, being -immediately boarded, did no damage.</p> - -<p>The trenches were opened, in the night -of the 16th and 17th, but, the workmen -having been ill conducted, were not covered -in, at day-light, and were compelled to retire, -leaving their implements behind them. -Two nights afterwards, the work was renewed -in good order and without loss, the -King of Prussia, his sons and the Duke of -Brunswick surveying them from a neighbouring -height. The first balls fell in a -street near one of the gates, and all that -part of the town was presently deserted.</p> - -<p>The 24th was a distressful day for the -inhabitants. Four days before, the King of -Prussia had sent a general passport for such -as chose to come out, and 1500 persons, -chiefly women and children, had accepted -his offer. A short time after the gate had -been opened, dismay was spread through -the whole city by an account, that the -Prussians would suffer no more to pass and -the French none to return. The bridge was -covered with these unhappy fugitives, who -had no food, or shelter, and who thought -themselves within reach of the Hockheim -batteries, that played furiously upon the -city. Two children lost their senses through -fright. At length, the French soldiers took -compassion upon them; they carried several -persons into the city under their cloaks, -and, the next day, their remonstrances -against the inhumanity of the German -clubbists, who had shut the gates against -this defenceless crowd, obliged them to permit -the return of the whole number.</p> - -<p>For several succeeding nights, the garrison -made sorties, with various effect, interrupting, -but not preventing the completion -of the parallel.</p> - -<p>At sunset, on the 27th, the besiegers began -a dreadful cannonade and bombardment. -On this night, the steeple of the -church of Notre Dame caught fire; and -during the alarm, excited by an immense -volume of flame, arising in the midst of -the city, the Austrians completely carried -the French posts, near Weissenau. The -next night was equally terrible to the inhabitants; -the flames caught several parts of -the city, amongst others the cathedral; -some of the magazines took fire, and eleven -hundred sacks of corn were burned. The -church, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, -was much injured. The French, intending -to retaliate their last surprise upon the Austrians, -made a fruitless attack upon the -Weissenau redoubt.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of June, at mid-day, the -French were driven from a point of land, -near the Main, called the Bleiau. In this -affair, a vessel, with 78 Prussians on board, -drove from her anchor, owing to the unskilfulness -of the crew, and, during a fire, -by which eight men were killed, made towards -the city. The Prussians were taken -prisoners, and exchanged the next day. At -night, the bombardment was renewed; the -<i>Domprobstei</i>, or palace of the Provost, was -burned and several of the neighbouring residences; -in other parts of the city, some -houses were reduced to ashes.</p> - -<p>The next night, the church of the Franciscans -and several other public buildings -were destroyed. A dreadful fire, on the -night of the 2d and 4th of June, consumed -the chapel of St. Alban. Families in the -southern part of the city now constantly -passed the night in their cellars; in the day-time, -they ventured into their usual apartments; -for the batteries of the besiegers -were by far the most terrible, at night, -when the whole city was a sufficient mark -for them, though their works could scarcely -be discerned by the garrison. In the day-time, -the exactness of the French gunners -frequently did great injury to the batteries, -which, at night, were repaired and used -with equal effect against the city.</p> - -<p>St. Alban's fort was now demolished, so -that the besieged withdrew their cannon -from it. Elizabeth fort was also much damaged. -A strong work, which the French -had raised, in prolongation of the <i>glacis</i>, -divided the opinions of the Prussian engineers. -Some thought it should be preserved, -when taken, because it would command -part of the town; others, that it -should be demolished. The latter opinion -prevailed, and, in the night of the 5th and -6th, General <span class="smallcaps">Manstein</span> was ordered to -make the attack with three battalions. He -perfectly succeeded, as to the nearest part -of the work; but the other, on account of -its solid foundation, could not be entirely -destroyed. In the mean time, two battalions -were sent, under cover of the darkness, -to attack the Zahlbach fort, a part of which -they carried by storm; but the reinforcements, -immediately supplied by the garrison, -obliged them to retire. Two Prussian -officers were killed; one wounded, and -another, with one-and-thirty men, taken. -The Prussians lost in all 183 men; the -French had twelve killed and forty-seven -wounded.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of July, the French repaired -the damaged fort, the distance of it from -the Prussians preventing the latter from hindering -them.</p> - -<p>At night, General Kleist carried the fort, -at Zahlbach, by a second attack, and demolished -it; at the same time, some batteries -of the second parallel were perfected. -The French could not support the loss of -this fort; on the 7th, they attacked the -scite; carried it, after a severe contest; and -rebuilt it. At night, they were driven back -again and the fort entirely destroyed. In -the same night they were driven from -Kostheim, after a furious battle, by the -Prussian General Schonfield. During this -engagement, the rapid succession of flashes -and explosion of bombs seemed to fill the -air with flame. A Prussian detachment -having been posted on the road to Cassel, in -order to prevent the garrison of that place -from sending succour to Kostheim, this -road was so strongly bombarded by the -French, that seven bombs were frequently -seen in the air at once. The loss was great, -on both sides, in this engagement, after -which the Council in the city resolved, to -make no more attempts upon Kostheim, on -account of the distance.</p> - -<p>The following night, the fire was less -than usual, but a few bombs and grenades -fell in the city, where the inhabitants had -now learned to extinguish such as grounded, -before their <i>fusees</i> were consumed. They -also formed themselves into parties for the -ready suppression of fires. The next morning, -the garrison saw the works of the besiegers -brought to within two hundred and -fifty paces of the walls.</p> - -<p>About this time, the sickliness of the -garrison became apparent, and General D'Oyré -informed the Council, that, on account of -this and of the fatiguing service of the -works, he feared the defence could not be -much longer continued. He lamented, -that the troops of the line were so few, -and the others so inexperienced.</p> - -<p>For several nights, the works of the besiegers -were eagerly pushed, but still they -were not so forward, as had been expected. -Some of the besieging corps began to be -sickly; the King of Prussia having resolved -to employ no more labourers, it was -reckoned, that the soldiers, for eight-and-forty -hours of work, had only eighteen of -rest. On the other hand, they were assured, -that the garrison must be equally fatigued, -since, in such an extensive fortification, -none could be left long unemployed.</p> - -<p>The French had been, for some time, -busied in forming what is called a Fleche at -the head of one of their forts, and this was -thought necessary to be destroyed. It was -attacked in the night of the 12th and 13th -by the Austrians; but so much time was -passed in their operations, that the French -fell upon them, in great force, about two -in the morning, and beat them away, with -loss. The Austrians were as little employed -as possible in services of this fort.</p> - -<p>On the 13th of July, another battery -was stormed by the Prussians; but, as the -officer, unlike the Austrians, advanced with -too little caution, his party was much hurt -by some pieces of concealed cannon, and -the enterprise failed.</p> - -<p>The night of the 13th and 14th was -passed in much agitation by the garrison -and inhabitants. Several of the public -buildings were set fire to and burned by -grenades. The works of the besiegers were -now greatly advanced. The garrison made -five sorties in this night, and were repulsed -in all, losing an hundred men, while the -besiegers lost eight killed and one-and-thirty -wounded.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of July, a cessation of arms -took place from seven o'clock in the morning -till one. In the city, the French celebrated -their annual fête; General d'<span class="smallcaps">Oyré</span> -and the troops took the oath, and <span class="smallcaps">Merlin</span> -delivered an address to them. In the Austrian -camp, the Prince de <span class="smallcaps">Condé</span> was received -with a <i>feu de joye</i>. During this cessation, -the soldiers upon the different outposts -entered into conversation with each -other, and the French boasted of the difficulties -they laboured under from the length -of the siege.</p> - -<p>At night, an affair at the Fleche cost the -allies, who succeeded in part, ninety men; -the French confessed, that this work cost -them in all three hundred. The inhabitants -of the city were again greatly alarmed, -their streets being covered with a shower of -grenades. The laboratory and a part of -the Benedictine abbey were burned, and -two explosions took place at the former. -The whole city shook with each report, -and, in the nearer parts, all the windows -were broken and the doors burst open. -The remainder of the hay and straw was -consumed in this fire; the whole stock of -other forage was reduced to a sufficiency -for four days; and the surgeon's stores were -much damaged.</p> - -<p>Still the Fleche prevented the besiegers -from completing their second parallel. It -was, therefore, again attacked, on the night -of the 16th and 17th, Prince Louis Ferdinand -of Prussia commanding at the assault, -in which he was one of twelve officers -wounded. The Fleche was then completely -carried.</p> - -<p>The next night was very industriously -spent by the besiegers in forming new batteries, -and those of the second parallel were -raised, before there were cannon enough at -hand to place upon them. The French took -advantage of this, and brought a part of -theirs to bear, so as to enfilade the parallel, -with great effect; the Prussians almost immediately -losing an officer and forty men.</p> - -<p>In the city, the sick had now increased so -much, that six hundred men were brought -from Cassel, on the 17th, to re-inforce the -garrison. On the 18th, the commandant -informed the Council, that there was a want -of fodder and such a loss of horses, by desertion, -that there were not cavalry enough -left for service. The soldiers, who knew the -deficiency of medicines and other means -of relief for the wounded, were unwilling -to be led to sorties. Though corn had -not failed, flour, it appeared, soon would, -for some of the mills had been rendered -unserviceable, for the present, by shot, and -others were deserted by the millers.</p> - -<p>At night, after an unsuccessful attempt -upon the Fleche, it was resolved, that the -garrison, which had hitherto scarcely suffered -a night to pass, without making some -sorties, should, for the future, adhere solely -to defensive measures. Some engineers proposed -to abandon the whole line of forts, -and others, that two of the largest should -be blown up. The General and Council, -at length, confessed, that they could not -continue the defence, and assured the inhabitants, -who had declared themselves in -their favour, that a longer delay of the surrender -would produce a more severe disposition -of the besiegers towards them, without -increasing the chance of escaping it.</p> - -<p>A negotiation, relative to the surrender, -was now begun by <span class="smallcaps">D'Oyré</span>, in a letter, -which partly replied to one from the Prussian -commander <span class="smallcaps">Kalkreuth</span>, upon the -subject of the departure of aged persons and -children from the city. Their correspondence -continued till the 20th, and several -letters were exchanged, chiefly upon the -question of the removal, or detention of the -inhabitants, who had attached themselves to -the French; it was then broken off, upon -a disagreement, as to this and some other -points. The firing, on both sides, had in -the mean time continued, and the besiegers -carried on the trenches, though these were -now such an easy mark for the garrison, -that they lost an officer and five-and-twenty -men, in the night of the 19th and 20th. -The next night, the Dominicans' church in -the city took fire, and six French soldiers -were buried under its ruins.</p> - -<p>Upon a renewal of the intercourse, the -fire slackened, on the 21st; but, on some -delays in the negotiation, was threatened to -be recommenced. At length, the conditions -of the surrender were settled, and the negotiation -signed, on the 22d of July, by -the two Generals Kalkreuth and D'Oyré; -the former having rendered the capitulation -somewhat easier than was expected for the -garrison, because the Duke of Brunswick -had only nineteen thousand men to cover -the siege, and Custine had forty thousand, -which were near enough to attack him. -General <span class="smallcaps">Kalkreuth</span>'s orders are supposed -to have been to obtain possession of the -place, upon any terms, that would give it -him quickly.</p> - -<p>At this time, the garrison, which, at the -commencement of the siege, had consisted -of 22,653 men, was reduced to 17,038, -having had 1959 killed, 3334 wounded, or -rendered unserviceable by sickness, and -having lost 322 by desertion.</p> - -<p>The loss of the besiegers is stated at about -3000 men.</p> - -<p>The consumption of ammunition, on the -part of the French, was found to have been</p> - -<table summary="stores_2"> -<tr><td align="right">681,850</td><td align="left">pounds of powder,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">106,152</td><td align="left">cannon balls,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">10,278</td><td align="left">bombs,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">6,592</td><td align="left">grenades,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">44,500</td><td align="left">pounds of iron,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">300,340</td><td align="left">musquet cartridges;</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="noindent">and, during the siege, 107 cannon either -burst, or were rendered unserviceable by the -besiegers' shot. Towards the conclusion, -sixty cannon also became useless by the -failure of balls of the proper calibre.</p> - -<p>On the 24th and 25th, the garrison -marched out, <span class="smallcaps">Merlin</span> leading the first column -of 7500 men. The members of the -Clubs, who would have gone out with the -troops, were pointed out by the other inhabitants -and detained; but the Elector had -the magnanimity to think of no other retaliation, -than their imprisonment in a tower, -near the Rhine, where they have since remained.</p> - -<p>There was now leisure to examine the -city, and it was found, that six churches -were in ruins; that seven mansions of the -nobility had been burned, and that very few -houses had escaped, without some damage. -The surrounding grounds were torn up by -balls and batteries. The works of Cassel -were surrendered entire to the conquerors, -and are an important addition to the -strength of Mentz, already reckoned one of -the strongest and largest fortifications in -Europe. Between Cassel and the ruins of -Kostheim not a tree was to be seen. All -the neighbouring villages were more, or -less, injured, being contended for, as posts, -at the commencement of the siege; and the -country was so much disfigured, that the -proprietors of lands had some difficulty to -ascertain their boundaries.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="MENTZ_2" id="MENTZ_2">MENTZ.</a></h3> - -<p>Something has been already said -of the present condition of this city: upon -a review it appears, that from the mention -of churches, palaces, burgesses, quays and -streets, we might be supposed to represent it -as a considerable place, either for splendour, -or commerce, or for having its middle -classes numerously filled. Any such opinion -of Mentz will be very incorrect. After two -broad and somewhat handsome streets, all -the other passages in the city are narrow -lanes, and into these many of the best houses -open, having, for the most part, their lower -windows barricadoed, like those of Cologne. -The disadvantage, with which any buildings -must appear in such situations, is increased -by the neglected condition of these; for a -German has no notion, that the outside of -his house should be clean, even if the inside -is so. An Englishman, who spends a -few hundred pounds in a year, has his house -in better condition, as to neatness, than any -German nobleman's we saw; a Dutchman, -with fifty pounds a year, exceeds both.</p> - -<p>The Elector's palace is a large turreted -building of reddish stone, with one front -towards the Rhine, which it commands in -a delightful point of view; but we did not -hear, that it was so much altered, by being -now used as a barrack, as that its appearance -can formerly have been much less suitable -than at present to such a purpose.</p> - -<p>On the quay there is some appearance of -traffic, but not much in the city; so that -the transfer of commodities from vessels of -other districts to those of the Electorate -may be supposed to contribute great part -of the show near the river. The commerce -is not sufficient to encourage the building of -warehouses over the quay. The vessels are -ill rigged, and the hulls are entirely covered -with pitch, without paint. About thirty of -these, apparently from forty to seventy tons -burthen, were lying near the quay; and the -war could scarcely have diminished their -usual number, so many being employed in -carrying stores for the armies.</p> - -<p>The burgesses are numerous, and have -some privileges, which render their political -condition enviable to the other inhabitants -of the Electorate. But, though these have -invited manufacturers, and somewhat encouraged -commerce, there is not wealth -enough in the neighbouring country, to -make such a consumption, as shall render -many traders prosperous. In point of -wealth, activity and address, the burgesses of -Mentz are much below the opinion, which -must be formed, while German cities are -described and estimated by their importance -in their own country, rather than by a -comparison of their condition with that of -others. A trader, it will be allowed, is at -least as likely to appear to advantage in his -business as in any other state. His intelligence -may surely be, in some degree, judged -of by those, who deal with him; and that -we might know something of those of -Mentz, we passed some of the little time we -were left to ourselves in endeavouring to -buy trifles at their shops.</p> - -<p>The idleness and inadvertence we generally -saw are difficult to be conceived; perhaps, -the trouble, experienced in purchasing -a book, may give an idea of them. We -wanted the German pamphlet, from which -most of the above-mentioned particulars of -the siege are extracted; and, as it related to -a topic so general within the place, we -smiled, when our friends said they would -<i>assist</i> us to procure it, during a walk. Two -booksellers, to whom we applied, knew nothing -of it; and one supposed, that an engraved -view of the works would do quite as -well. Passing another shop, a young German -gentleman enquired for it of the master, -who was at the door, and heard, that -we might have it, upon our return, in half -an hour. The door, when we came back, -was shut, and no knocking could procure -it to be opened; so that we were obliged -to send into the dwelling-house. When -the shopman came, he knew nothing of the -book; but, being assured that his master -had promised it, went away, and returned -with a copy in sheets. We paid for this, -and left it to be sewed, which was agreed -to be done, in three hours. At that time, -it was not finished, but might be had in -another hour; and, after that hour, it was -again promised, within two. Finally, it -could not be had, that night, but would be -ready in the morning, and, in the morning, -it was still unfinished; we then went to -Franckfort without it, and it was sent after -us by a friend. This was the most aggravated -instance we saw of a German trader's -manners; but something like it may be almost -every where met with.</p> - -<p>From such symptoms and from the infrequency -of wealth among the middle classes -it is apparent, that Mentz could not have -been important, as to commerce, even if -there had been no siege, which is here mentioned -as the cause of all deficiencies, and -certainly is so of many. The destruction -of property, occasioned by it, will not be -soon remedied. The nobility have almost -forsaken a place, where their palaces have -been either destroyed, or ransacked; the -Prince has no residence there; some of the -Germans, who emigrated on account of the -last siege, fled into France; the war-taxes, -as well as the partial maintenance of the -garrison, diminish what property remains; -and all expenditure is upon a reduced footing.</p> - -<p>The contribution of the inhabitants towards -a support of the garrison is made by -the very irksome means of affording them -lodging. At the best houses, the doors are -chalked over with the names of officers, -lodged in them; which the servants dare -not efface, for the soldiers must know where -to find their officers. In a family, whom -we visited, four officers and their servants -were quartered; but it must be acknowledged, -that the former, so far from adding -to this inconvenience by any negligent conduct, -were constantly and carefully polite. -We, indeed, never saw Prussian officers -otherwise; and can testify, that they are as -much superior to those Austrians in manners -and intelligence, as they are usually -said to be in military qualities.</p> - -<p>Another obstruction, which the siege has -given to the prosperity of Mentz, consists -in the absence of many members of the -Noble Chapter; an institution, which, however -useless, or injurious to the country, -occasions the expenditure of considerable -sums in the capital. That of Mentz is said -to be one of the richest of many similar -Chapters in Germany. From such foundations -the younger sons of noble families -derive sometimes very ample incomes, and -are but little restricted by their regulations -from any enjoyment of temporal splendour. -Their carriages and liveries vie with those -of the other attendants at Court; they are -not prohibited from wearing the ornaments -of orders of knighthood; are very little enjoined -to residence; are received in the -environs of the Court with military honours, -and allowed to reside in their separate -houses. They may wear embroidery of -gold, and cloths of any colours, except -scarlet, or green, which, as well as silver -lace, are thought too gay. Being thus permitted -and enabled to become examples of -luxury, their residence in any city diffuses -some appearance of prosperity over it.</p> - -<p>One of the largest buildings in Mentz is -the arsenal, which fronts towards the river, -and attracts the attention of those, who -walk upon the quay, by having armed -heads placed at the windows of the first -floor, which seem to frown, with Roman -sternness, upon the passenger. In one of -the principal rooms within, a party of -figures in similar armour are placed at a -council-board. We did not hear who contrived -them; but the heads in the windows -may be mistaken for real ones, at the distance -of fifty yards.</p> - -<p>The Elector of Mentz, who is chosen by -a Chapter of twenty-four Canons, and is -usually one of their number, is the first -ecclesiastical Prince in the empire, of which -he is also the Arch-chancellor and Director -of the Electoral College. In the Diet, he -sits on the right hand of the Emperor, affixes -the seal of the Empire to its decrees, and -has afterwards the custody of them among -the archives. His revenues, in a time of -peace, are nearly 200,000l. annually; but, -during a war, they are much less, a third -part of them arising from tolls, imposed -upon the navigation of the Rhine. The -vineyards supply another large part; and his -subjects, not interested in them, are but -little taxed, except when military preparations -are to be made; the taxes are then -as direct as possible, that money may be -immediately collected.</p> - -<p>The fortifications of his chief city are as -much a misfortune to his country as they -are an advantage to the rest of the Empire. -Being always one of the first objects, on -this side of the Rhine, since an enemy cannot -cross the river, while so considerable a -fortress and so large a garrison as it may -contain, might, perhaps, check their return, -the Electorate has been often the scene of a -tedious warfare. From the first raising of -the works by Louis the Fourteenth, their -strength has never been fully tried. The -surrender in 1792 was partly for the want -of a proper garrison, and partly by contrivance; -even in 1793, when the defence -was so furious and long, the garrison, it is -thought, might have held out further, if -their stores had been secured in bomb-proof -buildings. A German garrison, supported -by an army, which should occupy -the opposite bank of the Rhine, might be -continually reinforced and supplied, so as to -be conquered by nothing but the absolute -demolition of the walls.</p> - -<p>The bridge of boats over the Rhine, -which, both in peace and war, is so important -to the city, is now in a much better -state than the French found it, being -guarded, at the eastern end, by the fortifications -of Cassel. Notwithstanding its great -length and the rapidity of the river, it is so -well constructed, as to be much less liable -to injury, than might be supposed, and -would probably sustain batteries, which -might defeat every attempt at destroying it -by fireships. It is 766 feet long, and wide -enough for the passage of two carriages at -once. Various repairs, and the care of a -daily survey, have continued it, since 1661, -when it was thrown over the river.</p> - -<p>The practice of modifying the names of -towns so as to incorporate them separately -with every language, is no where more -remarkable than with respect to those of -Germany, where a stranger, unless he is -aware of them, might find the variations -very inconvenient. The German name for -what we call Mentz, is <i>Maynz</i>; the French, -which is most used, <i>Mayence</i>; and the Italian -<i>Magontio</i>, by descent from the Roman -<i>Magontiacum</i>. The German synonym for -Liege is <i>Luttich</i>; for Aix la Chapelle, -<i>Achen</i>; for Bois le Duc, <i>Herzogenbusch</i>; -and for Cologne, <i>Cöln</i>, which is pronounced -<i>Keln</i>. The name borne by every town in -the nation to which it belongs, should surely -be its name, wherever it is mentioned; -for the same reason, that words, derived -into one language from another, are -pronounced according to the authority of their -roots, because the use of the primary term -is already established, and there can never -be a decision between subsequent varieties, -which are cotemporary among themselves, -and are each produced by the same arrogance -of invention.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="FRANCKFORT" id="FRANCKFORT">FRANCKFORT.</a></h3> - -<p>We came hither by means of a -passage boat, which we were told would -shew something of the German populace, -but which displayed nothing so much as -the unskilfulness of the German sailors. -Though they make this voyage, every day, -they went aground in the even stream of -the Maine, and during the calmest weather; -fixing the vessel so fast by their ill-directed -struggle to get off, that they were compelled -to bring the towing horses to the side -and tug backward with the stream. There -were an hundred people in the boat; but -the expedient of desiring them to remove -from the part, which was aground, was -never used. We heard, that they seldom -make the voyage, without a similar stoppage, -not against any shifting sand, but upon -the permanent shelves of the river.</p> - -<p>The distance is about four-and-twenty -miles, but we were nine hours in reaching -Franckfort, the environs of which afford -some symptoms of a commercial and opulent -city, the banks of the Maine being covered -for nearly the last mile with country -seats, separated from each other by small -pleasure grounds.</p> - -<p>There are gates and walls to Franckfort, -but the magistrates do not oppress travellers -by a military examination at their entrance. -Having seen the worthlessness of many -places, which bear ostentatious characters -either for splendour or trade, we were -surprised to find in this as much of both as had -been reported. The quays were well covered -with goods and labourers; the streets -nearest to the water are lined with shops, -and those in the middle of the city with the -houses of merchants, of which nearly all -are spacious, and many magnificent. Some, -indeed, might be called palaces, if they had -nobility for their tenants; but, though the -independence, which commerce spreads -among the middle classes, does not entirely -deter the German nobility from a residence -here, the finest houses are the property of -merchants.</p> - -<p>In our way to the <i>Cigne Blanc</i>, which is -one of the best inns, we passed many of so -good an appearance, that it was difficult to -believe there could be better in a German -city. But Franckfort, which is the pride -of Germany, in this respect, has probably a -greater number of large inns than any other -place of equal extent in Europe. The fairs -fill these, twice in a year, for three weeks, -at each time; and the order, which is indispensible -then, continues at other periods, -to the surprise and comfort of strangers.</p> - -<p>This city has been justly described by -many travellers; and Doctor <span class="smallcaps">Moore</span> has -treated of its inhabitants with the ease and -elegant animation of his peculiar manner. -We shall not assume the disadvantage of entering -upon the same subject after him. -The inhabitants of Franckfort are very -distinct, as to manners and information, -from the other Germans; but they are so -far like to those of our own commercial -cities, that one able account leaves scarcely -any thing new to be seen, or told, concerning -them.</p> - -<p>All their blessings of liberty, intelligence, -and wealth are observed with the more attention, -because they cannot be approached, -except through countries afflicted by arbitrary -power, ignorance and poverty. The -existence of such a city, in such a situation, -is little less than a <i>phenomenon</i>; the causes -of which are so various and minute as to -make the effect, at first sight, appear almost -accidental. The jealousy of the neighbouring -Princes towards each other, is the -known, and, certainly, the chief cause of -its exterior protection against each; the -continuance of its interior liberties is probably -owing to the circumstance, which, -but for that jealousy, would expose it to -subjection from without,—the smallness of -its territory. Where the departments of -government must be very few, very difficult -to be rendered expensive to the public, and -very near to their inspection, the ambition -of individuals can be but little tempted to -contrive encroachments upon the community. -So complexly are the chief causes -of its exterior and interior independence -connected with each other.</p> - -<p>As to the first of these, it may, perhaps, -be replied, that a similar jealousy has not -always been sufficient to protect similar -cities; and Dantzick is the recent instance -of its insufficiency. But the jealousy, as to -Dantzick, though similar, was not equal to -this, and the temptation to oppose it was -considerably greater. What would the most -capable of the neighbouring Princes gain -by the seizure of Franckfort? A place of -strength? No. A place capable of paying -taxes? Yes; but taxes, which would be -re-imposed upon commodities, consumed -partly by his own subjects, whose property -is his own already, and partly by those -of his neighbours, to whose jealousy they -would afford an additional and an unappeasable -provocation. Dantzick, on the -contrary, being a seaport, was, if not strong, -capable of supplying strength, and might -pay taxes, which should not fall entirely -upon its neighbours, but upon the distant -countries, that traffick with it. And even -to these considerations it is unnecessary to -resort, unless we can suppose, that despotism -would have no effect upon commerce; a -supposition which does not require to be -refuted. If a severe taxation was introduced -here, and, in so small a district, taxation -must be severe to be productive; if -such a taxation was to be introduced, and -if the other advantage of conquest, that of -a forcible levy of soldiers, was attempted, -commerce would vanish in silence before -the oppressor, and the Prince, that should -seize the liberties of Franckfort, would find -nothing but those liberties in his grasp.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, what are the advantages -of permitting the independence of -such a city to the sovereigns, who have the -power of violating it? Those of a neutral -barrier are well known, but apply only to -military, or political circumstances. The -others are the market, which Franckfort -affords, for the produce and manufactures -of all the neighbouring states; its value as -a banking <i>depôt</i> and <i>emporium</i>, in which -Princes may place their money, without -rendering it liable to the orders of each -other, or from which they may derive -loans, by negotiating solely and directly -with the lenders; its incapacity for offensive -measures; and its usefulness as a place -of meeting to themselves, or their ministers, -when political connections are to be discussed.</p> - -<p>That the inhabitants do enjoy this independence -without and freedom within, we -believe, not because they are asserted by -treaties, or political forms; of which the -former might not have survived the temporary -interests, that concluded them, and -the latter might be subdued by corruption, -if there were the means of it; but because -they were acknowledged to us by many -temperate and discerning persons, as much -aloof from faction, as they were from the -affectation, or servility, that sometimes -makes men boast themselves free, only because -they have, or would be thought to -have, a little share in oppressing others. -Many such persons declared to us, that they -had a substantial, practical freedom; and -we thought a testimony to their actual enjoyments -more valuable than any formal -acknowledgments of their rights. As to -these latter securities, indeed, Franckfort is -no better provided than other imperial cities, -which have proved their inutility. It stands -in the same list with Cologne, but is as superior -to it in government as in wealth.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants having had the good -sense to foresee, that fortifications might -render them a more desirable prize to their -neighbours, at the same time that their real -protection must depend upon other means, -have done little more than sustain their antient -walls, which are sufficient to defend -them against a surprise by small parties. -They maintain no troops, except a few -companies of city-guards, and make their -contributions to the army of the Empire in -specie. These companies are filled chiefly -with middle-aged men, whose appearance -bespeaks the plenty and peacefulness of the -city. Their uniforms, blue and white, are -of the cut of those in the prints of <span class="smallcaps">Marlborough's</span> -days; and their grenadiers' -caps are of the same peaked sort, with tin -facings, impressed with the city arms.</p> - -<p>In wars with France, the fate of Franckfort -has usually depended upon that of -Mentz, which is properly called the key of -Germany, on the western frontier. In the -campaign of 1792, Custine detached 3000 -troops of the 11,000, with which he had -besieged Mentz, and these reached Franckfort, -early in the morning of the 22d of -October. <span class="smallcaps">Neuwinger</span>, their commander, -sent a letter to the magistrates from Custine, -demanding a contribution of two millions -of florins, which, by a negotiation at Mentz, -was reduced to a million and a half, for the -present. Notice was accordingly given in -the city, that the magistrates would receive -money at four per cent. interest, and, on -the 23d, at break of day, it began to flow -in to the Council-house from all quarters. -Part was immediately given to <span class="smallcaps">Neuwinger</span>, -but payment of the rest was delayed; -so that Custine came himself on the 27th, -and, by throwing the hostages into prison, -obtained, on the 31st of October, the remainder -of the first million. For the second, -the magistrates gave security to <span class="smallcaps">Neuwinger</span>, -but it was never paid; the Convention -disavowed great part of the proceedings -of Custine, and the money was not again -demanded.</p> - -<p>The French, during the whole of their -stay, were very eager to spread exaggerated -accounts of their numbers. Troops were -accordingly marched out at one gate of the -city, with very little parade, that they might -enter with much pomp and in a longer column, -at the other. The inhabitants, who -were not expert at military numeration, -easily believed, that the first party had -joined other troops, and that the whole -amounted to treble their real number. -After the entry of the Prussians, this contrivance -was related by prisoners.</p> - -<p>The number of troops, left in the city -by Custine, on his retirement from the -neighbouring posts, in the latter end of -November, was 1800 men, with two pieces -of cannon. On the 28th, when the Prussian -Lieutenant Pellet brought a summons -to surrender, Helden, the commander, -having sent to Custine for reinforcements -and cannon, was answered, that no men -could be spared; and that, as to cannon, -he might use the city artillery. Helden -endeavoured to remove this from the arsenal; -but the populace, encouraged by the -neighbourhood of the Prussians, rose to prevent -him; and there might have been a -considerable tumult, if Custine had not arrived, -on the 29th, and assured the magistrates, -that the garrison should retire, rather -than expose the place to a siege. The city -then became tranquil, and remained so till -the 2d of December, when the inhabitants, -being in church, first knew by the noise of -cannon, that the place was attacked.</p> - -<p>General Helden would then have taken -his two cannon to the gate, which was contended -for, but the inhabitants, remembering -Custine's promise, would permit no resistance; -they cut the harness of the horses, -broke the cannon wheels, and themselves -opened the gates to the Prussians, or rather -to the Hessians, for the advanced corps of -the assailants was chiefly formed of them. -About 100 fell in this attack. Of the -French 41 were killed; 139 wounded; and -800 taken prisoners. The remainder of the -1800 reached Custine's army. A monument, -erected without the northern gate of -the city, commemorates the loss of the 100 -assailants, on the spot, on which they fell.</p> - -<p>Thus Franckfort, having happily but few -fortifications, was lost and regained, without -a siege; while Mentz, in a period of six -more months, had nearly all its best buildings -destroyed, by a similar change of masters.</p> - -<p>We stayed here almost a week, which -was well occupied by visits, but shewed -nothing in addition to what is already -known of the society of the place. Manners, -customs, the topics of conversation and -even dress, differ very slightly from those of -London, in similar ranks; the merchants of -Franckfort have more generally the advantages -of travel, than those of England, but -they have not that minute knowledge of -modern events and characters, which an -attention to public transactions renders -common in our island. Those, who have -been in England, or who speak English, -seem desirous to discuss the state of parliamentary -transactions and interests, and to -remedy the thinness of their own public -topics, by introducing ours. In such discussions -one error is very general from their -want of experience. The faculty of making -a speech is taken for the standard of intellectual -power in every sort of exertion; -though there is nothing better known in -countries, where public speakers are numerous -enough to be often observed, than that -persons may be educated to oratory, so as -to have a facility, elegance and force in it, -distinct from the endowments of deliberative -wisdom; may be taught to speak in -terms remote from common use, to combine -them with an unfailing dexterity of -arrangement, and to invest every thought -with its portion of artificial dignity, who, -through the chaos of benefits and evils, -which the agitation of difficult times throws -up before the eye of the politician, shall be -able to see no gleam of light, to describe no -direct path, to discern no difference between -greater and lesser evils, nor to think one -wholesome truth for a confiding and an -honest country. To estimate the general -intellectual powers of men, tutored to oratory, -from their success in the practice of -it, is as absurd as to judge of corporeal -strength from that of one arm, which may -have been rendered unusually strong by -exercise and art.</p> - -<p>Of the society at Franckfort, Messrs. -Bethman, the chief bankers, seem able to -collect a valuable part; and their politeness -to strangers induces them to do it often. -A traveller, who misses their table, loses, -both as to conversation and elegant hospitality, -a welcome proof of what freedom -and commerce can do against the mental -and physical desolation otherwise spread -over the country.</p> - -<p>The assistance, which the mutual use of -languages gives to a connection between -distant places, we were happy to see existing -and increasing, to the advantage of -England, at Franckfort. At the Messrs. -Bethmans', one day, French was nearly excluded, -the majority being able to converse -with nine or ten English, who were there, -in their own language. Of the merchants, -who have not been in England, several -speak English, without difficulty, and the -rising generation, it is said, will be generally -accomplished in it.</p> - -<p>One of the luxuries of Franckfort is a -<i>Cabinet Literaire</i>, which is open to strangers -by the introduction of members. There -the best periodical publications of the Continent -are received, and their titles immediately -entered in a book, so that the reading -is not disturbed by conversation with -the librarian. It excited our shame to hear, -that some contrivance had, for several -months, prevented the society from receiving -a very valuable English publication.</p> - -<p>After this, the Theatre may seem to require -some notice. It is a modern, but not -an elegant building, standing in an area, -that renders it convenient of access, and -nearly in the middle of the city. The interior, -which has been gaudily decorated, -contains a pit, three rows of boxes, that -surround the audience part, and a gallery -over them in the centre. It is larger than -the Little Theatre in the Haymarket, and, -in form, resembles that of Covent Garden, -except that six or seven of the central boxes, -in each tier, encroach upon the oval figure -by a projection over the pit. The boxes -are let by the year; the price of admission -for non-subscribers, is a florin, for which -they may find places in the box, engaged -by their friends, or in the pit, which is in -the same proportion of esteem as that at an -Opera-house.</p> - -<p>The performances are plays and operas -alternately; both in German; and the music -of the latter chiefly by German composers. -The players are very far beneath -mediocrity; but the orchestra, when we -heard it, accorded with the fame of German -musicians, for spirit and precision. In these -qualities even the wandering parties, that -play at inns, are very seldom deficient.</p> - -<p>The stage was well lighted, but the other -parts of the theatre were left in duskiness, -which scarcely permitted us to see the diamonds, -profusely worn by several ladies. -Six o'clock is the hour of beginning, and -the performances conclude soon after nine.</p> - -<p>The Cabinet Literaire and the Theatre -are the only permanent places of public -amusement at Franckfort, which is, however, -in want of no more, the inhabitants -being accustomed to pass much of their -time in friendly parties, at their houses. -Though wealth is, of course, earnestly and -universally sought for in a place purely -mercantile, we were assured, that the richest -persons, and there are some, who have -above half a million sterling, find no more -attention in these parties than others. This -was acknowledged and separately boasted of -by some of the very rich, and by those -who were comparatively poor. We are so -far able to report it for true, as that we -could never discern the least traces of the -officiousness, or subserviency that, in a corrupt -and debased state of society, frequently -point to the wealthiest individuals in every -private party.</p> - -<p>These and many other circumstances -would probably render Franckfort a place -of residence for foreigners, if the magistrates, -either dreading the increase of luxury, -or the interference of strangers with -their commerce, did not prevent this by -prohibiting them from being lodged otherwise -than at inns. It was with difficulty, -that an English officer, acting as Commissary -to some of the German regiments, -lately raised upon our pay, could obtain an -exemption from this rule, at the request of -the Hanoverian Minister.</p> - -<p>Round the city, are several well-disposed -walks, as pleasant as the flatness of the -nearer country will permit; and, at intervals, -along these, are the country houses of -the merchants, who do not choose to go beyond -the city territories, for a residence. -Saxenhausen, a small town, on the other -side of the Maine, though incorporated with -Franckfort, as to jurisdiction, and connected -with it by a bridge, is chiefly inhabited by -watermen and other labourers.</p> - -<p>We left Franckfort, after a stay of six -days, fortified by a German passport from -M. de Swartzhoff, the Hanoverian Minister, -who obligingly advised us to be prepared -with one in the native language of the -Austrian officers. At Mentz, the ceremonies -of examination were rendered much -more troublesome than before, the Governor, -General Kalkreuth, happening to be -in the great square, who chose to make several -travellers wait as if for a sort of review -before him, though, after all, nothing -was to be said but "Go to the Commandant, -who will look at your passports." -This Commandant was M. de Lucadou, a -gentleman of considerate and polite manners, -who, knowing our friends in Mentz, -added to his confirmation of M. de Swartzhoff's -passport an address to M. de Wilde, -the Intendant of some salt mines in Switzerland, -which he recommended to us to -see. These circumstances are necessary to -be mentioned here, because they soon led -to a disagreeable and very contradictory -event in our journey.</p> - -<p>The next morning, we set out from -Mentz, and were conducted by our voiturier -over a summer road, on the left bank of the -Rhine, then flowing with the melted snows -of Switzerland.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="OPPENHEIM" id="OPPENHEIM">OPPENHEIM.</a></h3> - -<p>This is the first town of the Palatinate, -on arriving from the north; and it -bears marks of the devastation, inflicted -upon that country, in the last century, more -flagrant than could be expected, when the -length of the intervening time, and the -complete recovery of other cities from similar -disasters, are considered. Louis the Fourteenth's -fury has converted it from a populous -city into little more than a picturesque -ruin. It was burned in 1668; and the -walls, which remain in double, or sometimes -in treble circles, are more visible, at -a distance, than the streets, which have been -thinly erected within them. Above all, is -the <i>Landscroon</i>, or crown of the country, a -castle erected on an eminence, which commands -the Rhine, and dignifies the view -from it, for several miles. The whole city, -or rather ruin, stands on a brow, over this -majestic river.</p> - -<p>The gates do not now open directly into -streets, but into lanes of stone walls between -vineyards and gardens, formed on the site -of houses, never restored, since the fire. -The town itself has shrunk from its antient -limits into a few streets in the centre. In -some of the interstices, corn grows up to -the walls of the present houses. In others -the ruins of former buildings remain, which -the owners have not been tempted to remove, -for the sake of cultivating their sites. -Of the cathedral, said to have been once -the finest on the Rhine, nearly all the walls -and the tower still exist; but these are the -only remains of grandeur in a city, which -seems entirely incapable of overcoming in -this century the wretchedness it inherits -from the last.</p> - -<p>Had the walls been as strong as they are -extensive, this place might not improbably -have endured a siege in the present age, -having been several times lost and regained. -It was surrendered to the French, without -a contest, in the campaign of 1792. After -their retreat from Worms, and during the -siege of Mentz, it was occupied by the -Prussians; and, in December 1793, when -the allies retired from Alsace, the Duke of -Brunswick established his head-quarters in -it, for the purpose of covering the fortress. -His army ovens remained near the northern -gate, in July 1794, when we passed -through it. In October of the same year -it fell again into the hands of the French.</p> - -<p>No city on the banks of the Rhine is so -well seated for affording a view of it as this, -which, to the north, overlooks all its windings -as far as Mentz, and, southward, commands -them towards Worms. The river -is also here of a noble breadth and force, -beating so vehemently against the watermills, -moored near the side, that they seem -likely to be borne away with the current. -A city might be built on the site of Oppenheim, -which should faintly rival the castle -of Goodesberg, in the richness, though not -in the sublimity of its prospect.</p> - -<p>From hence the road leads through a -fertile country of corn and vines, but at a -greater distance from the river, to Worms, -five or six miles from which it becomes -broad, straight, and bordered with regularly-planted -trees, that form an avenue to -the city. Soon after leaving Oppenheim, -we had the first symptom of an approach -to the immediate theatre of the war, meeting -a waggon, loaded with wounded soldiers. -On this road, there was a long train of -carriages, taking stores to some military <i>depôt</i>. -The defacement of the Elector's arms, on -posts near the road, shewed also, that the -country had been lately occupied by the -French; as the delay in cutting the ripe -corn did, that there was little expectation of -their return.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="WORMS" id="WORMS">WORMS.</a></h3> - -<p>The condition of Worms is an aggravated -repetition of the wretchedness of -Oppenheim. It suffered something in the -war, which the unfortunate Elector, son-in-law -of our James the First, provoked by -accepting the kingdom of Bohemia. Louis -the Fourteenth came upon it next, and, in -1669, burned every thing that could be -consumed. Nothing was restored, but on -that part, which was the centre of the antient -city; and the walls include, as at -Oppenheim, corn and vineyards upon the -ground, which was once covered with -houses, and which plainly appears to have -been so, from the lanes that pass between, -and doors that open into the inclosures. A -much larger space is so covered, than at -Oppenheim, for you are some time in -driving from the northern gate of the old -city to the first street of the present one.</p> - -<p>On the right of the road stands the -skeleton of the Electoral palace, which the -French burned in one of the late campaigns; -and it is as curious as melancholy -to observe how the signs of antient and -modern desolation mingle with each other. -On one hand is a palace, burned by the -present French; on the other, the walls of -a church, laid open by Louis the Fourteenth.</p> - -<p>The first and principal street of the place -leads through these mingled ruins, and -through rows of dirty houses, miserably -tenanted, to the other end of the city. -A few others branch from it, chiefly towards -the Rhine, including sometimes the -ruins, and sometimes the repaired parts -of churches; of which streets, narrow, ill-paved -and gloomy, consists the city of -Worms. The French General, that lately -wrote to Paris, "We entered the fair episcopal -city of Worms," may be supposed to -have derived his terms from a geographical -dictionary, rather than from a view of his -conquest.</p> - -<p>We were now in a place, occupied by -part of the acting army of the allies, which, -if not immediately liable to be attacked, -was to be defended by the maintenance of -posts, at a very short distance. Troops -passed through it daily, for the service of -these posts. The noise of every cannonade -was audible, and the result of every engagement -was immediately known, for it -might make an advance, or a retreat -necessary from Worms. The wounded men -arrived, soon after the intelligence, to the -military hospitals of the Prussians. A city, -so circumstanced, seemed to differ but little -from a camp; and we were aware, for a -few hours, of a departure from the security -and order of civil life.</p> - -<p>The inn, which was not otherwise a -mean building, was nearly destitute of furniture; -so that the owner was prepared to -receive any sort of guests, or masters. The -only provision which we could obtain was -bread, the commonest sort of wine, and one -piece of cold veal; for the city was under -military jurisdiction, and no guests were -allowed to have more than one dish at their -table.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, we saw, for the first -time, a crowd in a German city. A narrow -waggon, of which nearly all but the wheels -was basket-work, had arrived from the army, -with a wounded officer, who lay upon the -floor, supported by his servant, but occasionally -rose to return the salutes of passengers. -This was the Prince of Anhalt Plessis, -who had been wounded, in the morning, -when the French attacked all the neighbouring -lines of the allies, and an indecisive -engagement ensued, the noise of which had -been distinctly heard, at Worms. He was -hurt in the leg, and descended, with much -difficulty, from the waggon; but did not, -for an instant, lose the elegance of his address, -and continued bowing through the -passage to his apartment. No doubt was -entertained of his recovery, but there seemed -to be a considerable degree of sympathy, -attending this young man.</p> - -<p>We had not time to look into the -churches, or numerous monasteries, that -yet remain, at Worms; the war appeared -to have depopulated the latter, for not a -monk was to be seen. The cathedral, or -church of St. Mary and St. Peter, is one of -the most antient sacred buildings in Germany, -having been founded at least as early -as the commencement of the seventh century. -One of the prebends was established -in 1033, another in 1058. The Dominicans, -Carmelites, Capuchins and Augustines -have each a monastery, at Worms; as have -the Cistercians and the Augustines a nunnery. -A Protestant church was also consecrated, -on the 9th of June 1744; something -more than two hundred years, after -the ineffectual conference held here of Protestant -and Catholic divines, which Charles -the Fifth interrupted, when Melancthon, on -one side, and Echius, on the other, had engaged -in it, ordering them to resume their -arguments, in his presence, at Ratisbon. -This meeting was five years previous to -the celebrated diet of Worms, at which -Charles, having then estimated the temporal -strength of the two parties, openly shewed -his animosity to the Protestants, as Maurice -of Saxony did his intriguing ambition, by -referring the question to the Council of -Trent.</p> - -<p>The Jews, at Worms, inhabit a separate -street, and have a synagogue, of great antiquity, -their numbers having been once -such as to endanger the peace of the city; -but, in 1689, when the French turned their -synagogue into a stable, they fled with the -rest of the opulent inhabitants to Holland. -Those of the present day can have very few -articles of traffic, except money, the changing -of which may have been frequent, on -account of the neighbourhood of France.</p> - -<p>Worms is somewhat connected with English -history, having been occupied by the -troops, which James the First uselessly sent -to the assistance of the proscribed Elector -Palatine, when his just abhorrence of continental -wars was once, though tardily, -overcome by the entreaties of his daughter. -Here too George the Second held his -head-quarters, from the 7th to the 20th of September -1743; on the 14th of which month, -Lord Carteret concluded, in his name, an -offensive and defensive treaty with the -Ministers of Hungary and Sardinia.</p> - -<p>This city, like Cologne, retains some -affectation of the Roman form of government, -to which it was rendered subject by -Cæsar, with the title of <i>Augusta Vangionum</i>. -The <span class="smallcaps">Stadtmeister</span> is sometimes called -the <span class="smallcaps">Consul</span>, and the <span class="smallcaps">Schultheis</span>, or -Mayor, the <span class="smallcaps">Prætor</span>. But, in 1703, some -trivial tumult afforded a pretence for abolishing -its little remains of liberty, and the -Elector Palatine was declared its protector. -This blow completed the desolation, which -the disasters of the preceding century had -commenced; and a city, that was once -called the market of the Palatinate, as the -Palatinate was reputed the market of Germany, -continues to exhibit nothing more -than the ruins of its antient prosperity.</p> - -<p>Few of the present inhabitants can be the -descendants of those, who witnessed its -destruction in 1689; for we could not find, -that the particulars of that event were much -known, or commemorated by them, dreadful -and impressive as they must have been. -A column of Louis the Fourteenth's army -had entered the city, in September of the -preceding year, under the command of the -Marquis de Bonfleur, who soon distressed -the inhabitants by preparations for blowing -up the walls with gunpowder. The mines -were so numerous and large, as to threaten -nothing less than the entire overwhelming -of the city; but, being fired at different -times, the walls of the houses were left -standing, though they shook with almost -every explosion. The artillery and balls -had been previously carried away to Landau, -or Mentz, then possessed by Louis. -At length, on the 12th of May 1689, the -Intendant sent the melancholy news to the -magistracy, that he had received orders from -his monarch to burn the whole city. Six -days were allowed for the departure of the -inhabitants and the removal of their property; -which period was prolonged by -their entreaties to nineteen. At the expiration -of these, on Ascension Day, the 31st -of May, the French grenadiers were employed -from twelve o'clock, till four, in -placing combustibles about the houses and -public buildings, against several of which -large heaps of hay and straw were raised. -The word being then given, fire was set -to almost every house at once, and, in a -few hours, the city was reduced to ashes; -the conflagration being so general and strong -as to be visible in day-light at the distance -of more than thirty English miles. Such -was one of the calamities of a city, so unfortunately -situated, that the chapter of the -cathedral alone proved a loss by wars, previous -to the year 1743, amounting to -1,262,749 florins.</p> - -<p>The attention, due to so memorable a -place, detained us at Worms, till the voiturier -talked of being unable to reach Manheim, -before the gates would be shut, and -we let him drive vehemently towards</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="FRANCKENTHAL" id="FRANCKENTHAL">FRANCKENTHAL,</a></h3> - -<p>Another place, destroyed by Louis -the Fourteenth, but restored upon a plan so -uniform and convenient, that nothing but a -fuller population is necessary to confirm its -title of a flourishing city. The streets, -which intersect each other at right angles, -are wide and exactly straight; the houses -are handsomely built, but the poverty or -indolence of the owners suffers them to partake -of the air of neglect, which is general -in German habitations; and the streets, -though spacious and not ill-paved, had so -few passengers, that the depopulation of the -place seemed to be rendered the more observable -by its grandeur.</p> - -<p>Yet it would be unfair to estimate the -general prosperity of Franckenthal by its -present circumstances, even had we stayed -long enough to know them more accurately. -This place had been occupied but a -few weeks before by the French army, who -had plundered it, as well as several other -towns of the Palatinate, after the retreat of -the allies from Alsace, at the latter end of -1793. The inhabitants had, for the most -part, returned to their houses; but their -commerce, which is said to have been not -contemptible, could not be so easily restored. -The manufactures of porcelain, cloths, silks, -spangles, vinegar and soap, of which some -were established and all are protected by the -wise liberality of the Elector, though far -from being answerable, either in their capitals, -or produce, to the English idea of -similar enterprises, command some share -with England and France in supplying the -rest of Germany. One method of facilitating -the operations of trade the Elector -has advantageously adopted here; that of -instituting a court upon the spot for the decision -of all causes, in which the traders are -interested; and at his expence a navigable -canal has been formed from the town to -the Rhine. Artists and merchants have also -some privileges, at Franckenthal, of which -that of being exempt from the military press -is not the least.</p> - -<p>This press, or levy, is the method, by -which all the German Princes return their -contingents to the army of the Empire. -The population of every town and district -in their dominions is known with sufficient -accuracy, and a settled number of recruits -is supplied by each. When these are wanted, -notice is given, that the men of a certain -age must assemble and cast lots for the service. -Those, who are drawn, may find -substitutes, but with this condition, that the -deputy must be at least as tall as his principal; -a regulation, which makes the price -of substitutes depend upon their height, and -frequently renders it impossible for the -principals to avail themselves of the permission. -A farmer in this neighbourhood, -who was considerably above six feet in -height, could not obtain a substitute for -less than a hundred louis d'ors.</p> - -<p>Another unpleasant condition is attached -to this exchange: if the substitute is disabled, -or deserts, another must be supplied; -and, if he carries his arm or accoutrements -away, these must be paid for by the -person, who sent him.</p> - -<p>After a ride of a few miles, we reached</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="OGGERSHEIM" id="OGGERSHEIM">OGGERSHEIM,</a></h3> - -<p>A small town, on the west bank -of the Rhine, rebuilt in uniform streets, like -Franckenthal, having been destroyed by the -same exertion of Louis the Fourteenth's -cruelty. Here also the modern French had -very lately been, and some of the ruins, left -near the road by Louis, appeared to have -served them for kitchens in their excursion.</p> - -<p>At the east end of the town, towards the -Rhine, stands a chateau of the Elector, built -with modern, but not very admirable taste, -and commanding the distant river in several -fine points of view. We could not be admitted -to see the inside, which is said to -have been splendidly decorated; for the -French had just dismantled it of the furniture.</p> - -<p>The road from hence to Manheim was -bordered for its whole length, of at least -two miles, by rows of poplars, of which -some still remain near Oggersheim; but -those within a mile and a half of Manheim -have been felled at one or two feet from -the ground. This was done in December -1793, when the French began to advance -from Landau, and were expected to besiege -Manheim, their operations against which -might have been covered, in some measure, -by this noble alley.</p> - -<p>Near the Rhine, the road is now commanded -by two forts, of which one was -thrown up during the approach of the -French, and completed in the middle of -the summer, with great care. These contribute -much to the present security of the -city, which might otherwise be bombarded -from the opposite bank of the river, even -by an enemy, who should not be able and -should not propose to attempt the conquest -of the place. They are ditched and -pallisadoed, but, being divided from the body -of the city, by the Rhine, are, of course, -without the communication, which renders -such works capable of a long defence. -Round one of these forts, the road now -winds, entering a part of the works, near -the bridge, where there is a guard-house for -the troops of the Elector.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="MANHEIM" id="MANHEIM">MANHEIM.</a></h3> - -<p>It was twilight, when we approached -Manheim; and the palace, the numerous -turrets and the fortifications had their -grandeur probably increased by the obscurity. -The bridge of boats is not so long -as that at Mentz; but we had time enough -in passing it to observe the extent of the -city, on the left of which the Neckar pours -itself into the Rhine, so that two sides are -entirely washed by their streams. At the -next guard-house, where we were detained -by the usual enquiries, the troops were more -numerous; and surely no military figures -ever accorded so well with the gloomy -gates, and walls they guarded. The uniform -of the Palatine light troops is a close -jacket of motley brown, and pantaloons of -the same that reach to their half-boots. -They have black helmets, with crests and -fronts of brass, large whiskers, and their -faces, by constant exposure to the sun, are -of the deepest brown that can be, without -approaching to black. As they stood singly -on the ramparts, or in groups at the gates, -their bronze faces and Roman helmets -seemed of a deeper hue, than the gloom, -that partly concealed their figures.</p> - -<p>The entrance into Manheim, from the -Rhine, is by a spacious street, which leads -directly into the centre of the city, and to -a large square, planted with limes, consisting, -on one side, of public buildings, and, -on the other, of several noble houses, one of -which is the chief inn, called the <i>Cour -Palatine</i>. This is the first city in Germany, -that can answer, by its appearance, the expectations -of a foreigner, who has formed -them from books. Its aspect is truly that -of a capital and of the residence of a Court; -except that in the day-time a traveller may -be somewhat surprised at the fewness of -passengers and the small shew of traffic, -amidst such public buildings, and in streets -of such convenience and extent. The fairness, -the grandeur and the stateliness, which -he may have seen attributed to other German -cities, till he is as much disgusted as -deceived by every idea derived from description, -may be perceived in several parts -of Manheim, and the justness of disposition -in all.</p> - -<p>Nor is the beauty of the present city -solely owing to the destruction of the antient -one by Louis the Fourteenth, in 1689, -the year of general devastation in the Palatinate. -It was laid out in right lines, though -to a less extent, in the beginning of the -seventeenth century, when Frederic the Fifth -laid the foundation of the fortifications, behind -which a town was built, that adopted -the antient name of Manheim, from a -neighbouring one then in decay. These -were the fortifications and the town destroyed -by the French in 1689. The plan -of both was but extended, when the present -works were formed upon the system -of Cohorn, and the city by degrees restored, -with streets, which, intersecting each other -at right angles, divide it into an hundred -and seven square portions. The number -of the inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison, -was, in 1784, 21,858.</p> - -<p>Some of the streets are planted with rows -of trees, and there are five or six open -places, suitable for promenades, or markets. -The customhouse, which forms a side to -one of these, is a noble stone building, -rather appearing to be a palace, than an -office, except that under the colonnades, -which surround it, are shops for jewellery -and other commodities.</p> - -<p>The Electoral palace, which opens, on -one side, to the city, and, on the other, to -the ramparts, was built by the Elector -Charles-Philippe, who, in the year 1721, -removed his residence hither from Heidelberg, -on account of some difference with -the magistrates, or, as is said, of the prevalence -of religious disputes in that city. -He began to erect it in 1720; but the edifice -was not completed, till the right wing -was added by the present Elector, not to be -used as a residence, but to contain a gallery -of paintings, cabinets of antiquities and natural -history, a library, treasury and <i>manege</i>. -We passed a morning in viewing the apartments -in the other wing, all the paintings -and books having been removed from this, -as well as great part of the furniture from -the whole palace, in the dread of an approaching -bombardment. The person, who -shewed them, took care to keep the credit -of each room safe, by assuring us at the -door, that it was not in its usual condition. -The Elector had been, for some months, at -Munich, but the Duke and Duchess of -Deux Ponts and their family have resided -in this palace, since their retirement from -Deux Ponts, in the latter end of the campaign -of 1792.</p> - -<p>The rooms are all lofty, and floored with -inlaid work of oak and chesnut; the ceilings, -for the most part, painted; and the -walls covered with tapestry, finely wrought, -both as to colour and design. Some of -this came from a manufactory, established -by the Elector, at Franckenthal.</p> - -<p>The furniture, left in several of the -rooms, was grand and antient, but could -never have been so costly as those, who -have seen the mansions of wealthy individuals -in England, would expect to find in -a palace. The Elector's state-bed was inclosed -not only by a railing, but by a glass -case to the height of the ceiling, with windows, -that could be opened at pleasure, to -permit a conversation with his courtiers, -when compliments were paid literally at a -levee. In the court of France, this practice -continued even to very late years, and there -were three distinct privileges of entrée, denoting -the time, at which persons of different -classes were permitted to enter the -chamber. In the Earl of Portland's embassy -for King William to Louis the Fourteenth, -it was thought a signal mark of honour, -that he was admitted to his audience, -not only in the chamber, but within the -rails; and there the French Monarch stood -with the three young Princes, his grandsons, -the Count de Tholouse, the Duke -d'Aumont and the Mareschal de Noailles. -The Duke made his speech covered, after -which the King entered into conversation -with him, for several minutes.</p> - -<p>One room, at Manheim, was called the -Silver Chamber, from the quantity of solid -silver, used about the furniture. Such articles -as could be carried away entire, had -been removed, but the walls were disfigured -by the loss of the ornaments torn from -them, on account of their value. In several -rooms, the furniture, that remained, was -partly packed, to be carried away upon the -next alarm. The contents of the wardrobe -were in this state, and the interior of these -now desolated apartments seemed like the -skeleton of grandeur. The beauty of the -painted ceilings, however, the richness of -the various prospects, commanded by the -windows, and the great extent of the building -sufficiently accounted for the reputation, -which this palace has, of being the finest in -Germany.</p> - -<p>It is built of stone, which has somewhat -the reddish hue of that used at Mentz, and, -though several parts are positively disapproved -by persons of skill in architecture, -the whole is certainly a grand and sumptuous -building.</p> - -<p>The situation of Manheim and the -scenery around it are viewed to great advantage -from the tower of the Observatory, -in which strangers are politely received by -the Professor of Astronomy, whose residence -is established in it. From this are seen the -fruitful plains of the Palatinate, spreading, -on all sides, to bold mountains, of which -those of Lorrain, that extend on the west, -lose in distance the variety of their colouring, -and, assuming a blue tint, retain only -the dignity of their form. Among these, -the vast and round headland, called the -<i>Tonnesberg</i>, which is in sight, during the -greatest part of the journey from Mentz to -Manheim, is pre-eminent.</p> - -<p>But the chain, that binds the horizon on -the east, and is known by the name of the -<i>Bergstrasse</i>, or road of mountains, is near -enough to display all their wild irregularity -of shape, the forest glens, to which they -open, and the various tints of rock and soil, -of red and purple, that mingle with the -corn and wood on their lower steeps. These -mountains are seen in the north from their -commencement near Franckfort, and this -line is never interrupted from thence southward -into Switzerland. The rivals to them, -on the south west, are the mountains of -Alsace, which extend in long perspective, -and at a distance appear to unite with those -of the Bergstrasse. Among the numerous -towns and villages that throng the Palatinate, -the spires of Oppenheim and Worms -are distinctly visible to the north; almost -beneath the eye are those of Franckenthal, -and Oggersheim, and to the southward -Spires shews its many towers.</p> - -<p>In the nearer scene the Neckar, after -tumbling from among the forests of the -Bergstrasse, falls into the Rhine, a little below -the walls of Manheim; and the gardens -of a summer chateau belonging to -the Elector occupy the angle between the -two rivers.</p> - -<p>These gardens were now surrendered by -the Prince to be the camp of three thousand -of his troops, detached from the garrison of -the city, which, at this time, consisted of -nearly ten thousand men. In several places, -on the banks of the two rivers, batteries -were thrown up, and, near the camp, a -regular fort, for the purpose of commanding -both; so that Manheim, by its natural and -artificial means of defence, was supposed to -be rendered nearly unassailable, on two sides. -On that of Heidelberg, it was not so secure; -nor could the others be defended by -a garrison of less than 15,000 men. It was -on this account, that the Elector detained -ten thousand of his troops from actual service, -contrary, as is said, to the remonstrances -of the Emperor, who offered, but -without success, to garrison his capital with -Austrians. From the observatory, the camp -and the works were easily seen, and, by the -help of a Dollond telescope, the only optical -instrument remaining, the order of both -was so exactly pointed out by our guide, -that it was not difficult to comprehend the -uses of them. Military preparations, indeed, -occurred very frequently in Manheim. -In the gardens of the chief Electoral -palace, extending to the ramparts over the -Rhine, cannon were planted, which were -as regularly guarded by sentinels as in the -other parts of the fortifications.</p> - -<p>All the gates of Manheim appear to be defended -by fortifications of unusual strength. -Besides two broad ditches, there are batteries, -which play directly upon the bridges, -and might destroy them in a few minutes. -The gates are guarded, with the utmost -strictness, and no person is suffered to enter -them, after ten at night, without the express -permission of the governor. When -a courier arrives, who wishes to use his privilege -of passing, at all hours, he puts some -token of his office into a small tin box, -which is kept on the outside of the ditch, -to be drawn across it by a cord, that runs -upon a roller on each bank. The officer of -the guard carries this to the governor, and -obtains the keys; but so much time is passed -in this sort of application, that couriers, -when the nights are short, usually wait the -opening of the gates, which is soon after -day-light, in summer, and at six, or seven, -in winter.</p> - -<p>The absence of the Elector, we were -assured, had much altered the appearance of -Manheim, where scarcely a carriage was -now to be seen, though there were traces -enough of the gaiety and general splendour -of this little Court. Here are an Opera -House, a German Comedy, an Amateur -Concert, an Electoral Lottery, an Academy -of Sculpture and Design, and an Academy -of Sciences. The Opera performances are -held in a wing of the palace, and were -established in 1742, but have not attained -much celebrity, being supported chiefly by -performers from the other Theatre. This -last is called a national establishment, the -players being Germans, and the Theatre -founded in 1779 at the expence of the -Elector. The Baron de Dahlberg, one of -his Ministers, has the superintendance of -it. The Amateur Concert is held, every -Friday, during the winter, and is much frequented.</p> - -<p>The Electoral Lotteries, for there are -two, are drawn in the presence of the Minister -of Finances, and one of them is less -disadvantageous for the gamesters than is -usual with such undertakings. That, which -consists of chances determined in the customary -way, gives the Elector an advantage -of only five to four over the subscribers. -The other, which is formed upon the more -intricate model of that of Genoa, entitles -the subscribers to prizes, proportioned to -the number of times a certain ticket issues -from the wheel, five numbers being drawn -out of ninety, or rather five drawings of -one number each being successively made -out of ninety tickets. A ticket, which issues -once in these five drawings, wins fifteen -times the value of the stake; one, that -should be drawn each of the five times, -would entitle the owner to have his original -stake multiplied by sixty thousand, and -the product would be his prize. The undertaker -of this latter Lottery has the -chances immensely in his favour.</p> - -<p>From the very large income, to which -these Lotteries contribute a part, the present -Elector has certainly made considerable -disbursements, with useful purposes, if not to -useful effects. Of his foundation are the -Academy of Sciences, which was opened in -1763, for weekly sittings, and has proceeded -to some correspondence with other Academies; -the German Society, established -for the easy purpose of purifying and the -difficult one of fixing language; the Cabinet -of Physics, or rather of experimental -philosophy, celebrated for the variety and -magnitude of its instruments, among which -are two burning glasses of three feet diameter, -said to be capable of liquefying bodies, -even bottles filled with water, at 10 feet -distance; the Observatory, of 108 feet high, -in which all the chief instruments were -English; a Botanical Garden and Directorship; -an Academy of Sculpture, and a Cabinet -of Engravings and Drawings, formed -under the direction of M. Krahe of Dusseldorff, -in 400 folio volumes.</p> - -<p>Of all these establishments, none of the -ornaments, or materials, that were portable, -now remain at Manheim. The astronomical -instruments, the celebrated collection of -statues, the paintings and the prints have -been removed, together with the Electoral -treasure of diamonds and jewels, some to -Munich and some to other places of security. -But, though we missed a sight, which -even its rarity would have rendered welcome, -it seems proper, after such frequent -notice of the barrenness of Germany, to -mention what has been collected in one of -its chief cities.</p> - -<p>The expectation of an attack had dismantled -other houses, besides the Elector's, -of their furniture; for, in the Cour Palatine, -a very spacious, and really a good inn, -not a curtain and scarcely a spoon was left. -<i>A cause de la guerre</i> was, indeed, the general -excuse for every deficiency, used by -those, who had civility enough to offer one; -but, in truth, the war had not often -incroached upon the ordinary stock of conveniencies -in Germany, which was previously -too low to be capable of much reduction. -The places, which the French had actually -entered, are, of course, to be excepted; but -it may otherwise be believed, that Germany -can lose little by a war, more than the unfortunate -labourers, whom it forces to become -soldiers. The loss of wealth must -come chiefly from other countries. A rich -nation may give present treasure; a commercial -nation may give both present treasure -and the means of future competence.</p> - -<p>The land near Manheim is chiefly planted -with tobacco and madder, and the landscape -is enlivened with small, but neat countryhouses, -scattered along the margin of the -Neckar. The neighbourhood abounds in -pleasant rides, and, whether you wind the -high banks of the majestic Rhine, or the -borders of the more tranquil Neckar, the -mountains of the Bergstrasse, tumbled upon -each other in wild confusion, generally -form the magnificent back ground of the -scene.</p> - -<p>On returning from an excursion of this -kind at the close of evening, the soldiers -at the gates are frequently heard chanting -martial songs in parts and chorus; a sonorous -music in severe unison with the solemnity -of the hour and the imperfect -forms, that meet the eye, of sentinels keeping -watch beneath the dusky gateways, -while their brethren, reposing on the -benches without, mingle their voices in the -deep chorus. Rude and simple as are these -strains, they are often singularly impressive, -and touch the imagination with something -approaching to horror, when the circumstances -of the place are remembered, and it -is considered how soon these men, sent to -inflict death on others, may themselves be -thrown into the unnumbered heap of the -military slain.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> -<h3><a name="X-SCHWETZINGEN" id="X-SCHWETZINGEN">SCHWETZINGEN.</a></h3> - -<p>An excellent road, sheltered for nine -English miles by rows of high poplars, conducted -us through richly cultivated plains -from Manheim to Schwetzingen, a small -village, distinguished by an Electoral chateau -and gardens. This was one of the -pleasantest rides we had found in Germany, -for the road, though it exhibited little of -either the wild or picturesque, frequently -opened towards the mountains, bright with -a variety of colouring, and then again was -shrouded among woods and plantations, -that bordered the neighbouring fields, and -brought faintly to remembrance the style -and mingled verdure of our native landscape.</p> - -<p>Schwetzingen had been very lately the -Austrian head-quarters, for the army of the -Upper Rhine, and some soldiers were still -stationed near the road to guard an immense -magazine of wood; but there were otherwise -no military symptoms about the place.</p> - -<p>The chateau is an old and inelegant -building, not large enough to have been -ever used as a formal residence. The present -Elector has added to it two wings, each -of six hundred feet long, but so low, that -the apartments are all on the ground floor. -Somewhat of that air of neglect, which can -sadden even the most delightful scenes, is -visible here; several of the windows are -broken, and the theatre, music-room, and -ball-room, which have been laid out in one -of the wings, are abandoned to dust and -lumber.</p> - -<p>The gardens, however, are preserved in -better order. Before the palace, a long vista -of lawn and wood, with numerous and spacious -fountains, guarded by statues, display -something of the old French manner; other -parts shew charming scenery, and deep sylvan -recesses, where nature is again at liberty; -in a bay formed by the woods is an -amphitheatre of fragrant orange trees, placed -in front of a light semi-circular green-house, -and crowned with lofty groves. Near this -delicious spot, extends a bending arcade of -lattice-work, interwoven with vines and -many beautifully flowering plants; a sort of -structure, the filagree lightness of which it -is impossible not to admire, against precept, -and perhaps, when general effect is considered, -against necessary taste. In another -part, sheltered by the woods, is an edifice -in the style of a Turkish mosque, with its -light cloistered courts, slender minarets, and -painted entrances, inscribed with Arabic -mottos, which by the German translations -appear to express the pleasure of friendly -conversation and of indolence in summer. -The gardens have this result of a judicious -arrangement, that they seem to extend much -beyond their real limits, which we discovered -only by ascending one of the minarets. -They are open to the public, during great -part of every day, under certain rules for -their preservation, of which copies are -pasted up in several places.</p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> - -<h3><a name="CARLSRUHE" id="CARLSRUHE">CARLSRUHE.</a></h3> - -<p>At Schwetzingen the fine Electoral -road concludes, and we began to wind along -the skirts of a forest on the left, having on -the right an open corn country, beyond -which appeared the towers of Spires and -Philipsburg, of which the former was then -the head-quarters of the Austrian army, and -the latter is memorable for having given -birth to Melancthon in 1491. Waghausel -and Bruchsal are small posting places in this -route, at a village between which we had -another instance of the little attention paid -to travellers in Germany. At a small inn, -noxious with some fumigation used against -bugs, we were detained a quarter of an -hour, because the landlord, who had gone -out after our arrival, had not left word how -much we should pay, and the poor old woman, -who, without shoes or stockings, -attended us, was terrified when we talked -of leaving what was proper, and proceeding -before his return.</p> - -<p>About a mile beyond Bruchsal our postillion -quitted the chaussée, and entered a -summer road, through the deep and extensive -forest of Carlsruhe, preserved by the -Margrave of Baden for the shelter of game. -Avenues cut through this forest for nine -or ten miles in every direction, converge -at his palace and city of Carlsruhe, as at a -point. Other cruelties than those of the -chase sometimes take place in these delightful -scenes, for an amphitheatre has been -formed in the woods, where imitations of a -Spanish bull feast have been exhibited; to -such horrid means of preventing vacuity of -mind has a prince had recourse, who is -otherwise distinguished for the elegance of -his taste, and the suavity of his manners!</p> - -<p>The scenery of this forest is very various. -Sometimes we found our way through -groves of ancient pine and fir, so thickly -planted that their lower branches were -withered for want of air, and it seemed as -if the carriage could not proceed between -them; at others we passed under the spreading -shade of chesnuts, oak and walnut, and -crossed many a cool stream, green with the -impending foliage, on whose sequestered -bank one almost expected to see the moralizing -Jacques; so exactly did the scene -accord with Shakespeare's description. The -woods again opening, we found ourselves -in a noble avenue, and saw the stag gracefully -bounding across it "to more profound -repose;" while now and then a hut, formed -of rude green planks under some old oak, -seemed, by its smoked sides, to have often -afforded a sheltered repast to hunting -parties.</p> - -<p>Near Carlsruhe the gardens of the Prince -and then the palace become visible, the -road winding along them, on the edge of -the forest, till it enters the northern gate of -the city, the uniformity of which has the -same date as its completion, the ground plot -having been entirely laid out between January -and June 1715, on the 17th of which -month the Margrave Charles William laid -the foundation stone.</p> - -<p>The streets are accordingly spacious, light, -and exactly straight; but not so magnificent -as those of Manheim, and still less enlivened -with passengers. Since the commencement -of the war, the gaieties of the Court, which -afforded some occupation to the inhabitants, -have ceased; the nobility have left their -houses; and the Margrave is contented -with the amusements of his library, in -which English literature is said to fill a considerable -space.</p> - -<p>Carlsruhe has the advantage of not being -fortified; so that the inhabitants are not -oppressed by a numerous garrison, and -strangers pass through it, though so near -the seat of war, without interruption. It -is less than Manheim by at least half, and -has no considerable public building, except -the palace, from the spacious area before -which, all the streets proceed as <i>radii</i>, till -their furthest ends fill up the figure of a -semicircle. The houses in the area, which -immediately front the palace, are built over -a piazza interrupted only by the commencement -of the streets. The palace has, of -course, an unexampled advantage in the -mixture of town and rural scenery in its -prospects, looking on one side through all -the streets of the city, and on the other -through thirty-two forest alleys, cut to -various lengths of from ten to fifteen English -miles each; few, however, of the latter prospects -are now commanded except from the -upper windows, the present Elector having -entirely changed the style of the intervening -gardens, and permitted them to be laid out -in the English taste, without respect to the -thirty-two intersections, that rendered them -conformable with the forest.</p> - -<p>We passed part of two days at Carlsruhe, -and were chiefly in these gardens, which -are of the most enchanting beauty and richness. -The warmth of the climate draws -up colours for the shrubs and plants, which -we thought could not be equalled in more -northern latitudes; two thousand and seven -hundred orange and lemon trees, loaded -with fruit and blossoms, perfumed the air; -and choice shrubs, marked with the Linnean -distinctions, composed the thickets. -The gardens, being limited only by the forests, -appear to unite with them; and the -deep verdure and luxuriance of the latter -are contrasted sweetly with the tender green -of the lawns and plants, and with the variety -of scarce and majestic trees, mingled -with the garden groves.</p> - -<p>The palace is a large and sumptuous, -though not an elegant edifice, built of stone -like all the rest of the city, and at the same -period. The Margrave generally resides in -it, and has rendered it a valuable home, by -adding greatly to the library, filling an -observatory with excellent instruments, and -preserving the whole structure in a condition -not usual in Germany. The spot, -compared with the surrounding country, -appeared like Milton's Eden—like Paradise -opened in the wild.</p> - -<p>Beyond Carlsruhe the road begins to approach -the Rhine, which we had lost sight -of near Manheim; and, though the river is -never within view, the country is considered -as a military frontier, being constantly -patrolled by troops. Some of these were of -the Prince of Condé's army of emigrants, -who have no uniform, and are distinguished -only by the white cockade, and by a bandage -of white linen, impressed with black -<i>fleurs de lis</i>, upon the right arm. They -were chiefly on foot, and then wore only -their swords, without fire-arms.</p> - -<p>Near the road, a small party of Austrians -were guarding a magazine, before a tent, -marked, like their regimentals, with green -upon white. Soon afterwards, our postillion -drew up on one side, to permit a train -of carriages to pass, and immediately announced -the <i>Prinz von Condé</i>, who was in -an open landau, followed by two covered -waggons for his kitchen and laundry, and -by a coach with attendants.</p> - -<p>He appeared to be between fifty and -sixty; tall, not corpulent, and of an air, -which might have announced the French -courtier, if his rank had been unknown. -A star was embroidered upon his military -surtout, but he had no guards, though travelling -within the jurisdiction allotted to -him as a general officer. So little was the -road frequented at this period, that his was -the second or third carriage we had met, -except military waggons, since leaving -Mentz; a distance of more than eighty English -miles.</p> - -<p>The road for the whole stage between -Carlsruhe and Rastadt, about fifteen miles, -is planted, as seems customary in Germany -between the palaces of sovereigns, with lofty -trees, of which the shade was extremely -refreshing at this season; the clouds of -sand, that rose from the road, would otherwise -have made the heat intolerable.</p> - -<p>The first house in Rastadt is the palace of -the Margrave of Baden Baden, brother of -the Margrave of Baden Durlach, whose residence -is at Carlsruhe, a small and heavy -building, that fronts the avenue, and is -surrounded with stone walls. The interior -is said to be splendidly decorated, and a -chamber is preserved in the state, in which -Prince Eugene and Marshal Villars left it -in 1714, after concluding the peace between -the Emperor and Louis the Fourteenth. -The Prince of Baden, being then a general -in the service of the Emperor, had not been -able to escape the vengeance of Louis, -whose troops in 1688 first plundered, and -then burnt, the palace and city, and in the -war of the Succession they had a camp on -the adjoining plain. The Prince is therefore -supposed to have lent the palace, which -he had rebuilt, with the more readiness, -that the Marshal might see how perfectly -he could overcome his loss. The plunder of -the city in 1688 had continued for five -days, and it is mentioned in its history that -the French carried away fifteen waggon -loads of wine of the vintage of 1572.</p> - -<p>Rastadt, like Carlsruhe, is built upon one -plan, but is as inferior to it in beauty, as -in size. The chief street is, however, uncommonly -broad, so much so, that the upper -end is used as a market-place, and the -statue of the founder, Prince Louis, in the -centre, is seen with all the advantages of -space and perspective. There is, notwithstanding, -little appearance of traffic, and the -inhabitants seemed to be much less numerous -than the emigrant corps, which was -then stationed there, the head quarters of -the Prince of Condé being established in the -city. We passed an hour at an inn, which -was nearly filled by part of this corps, -and were compelled to witness the distress -and disappointment, excited by intelligence -just then received of the state of affairs in -the Low Countries.</p> - -<p>A small park of artillery was kept on -the southern side of Rastadt, where there -is a handsome stone bridge over the river -Murg, that falls into the Rhine, at the -distance of a league from the city. Soon after, -the road passes by the groves of the <i>Favorita</i>, -a summer palace built by a dowager -Margravine. We now drew nearer to the -mountains of the Bergstrasse, which had -disappeared near Schwetzingen, and had -risen again partially through the morning -mists, soon after our quitting Carlsruhe. -They are here of more awful height, and -abrupt steepness than in the neighbourhood -of Manheim, and, on their pointed brows, -are frequently the ruins of castles, placed -sometimes where it seems as if no human -foot could climb. The nearer we approached -these mountains the more we had occasion -to admire the various tints of their granites. -Sometimes the precipices were of a -faint pink, then of a deep red, a dull purple, -or a blush approaching to lilac, and sometimes -gleams of a pale yellow mingled with -the low shrubs, that grew upon their sides. -The day was cloudless and bright, and we -were too near these heights to be deceived -by the illusions of aërial colouring; the real -hues of their features were as beautiful, as -their magnitude was sublime. The plains, -that extend along their feet to the Rhine, -are richly cultivated with corn, and, beyond -the river, others, which appear to be equally -fruitful, spread towards the mountains of -Alsace, a corresponding chain with the Bergstrasse, -vast and now blue with distance.</p> - -<p>The manners of the people from Manheim -downwards, are more civilized than in -the upper parts of Germany; an improvement, -which may with great probability be -imputed to the superior fruitfulness of the -country, that amends their condition, and -with it the social qualities. The farms are -more numerous, the labourers less dejected, -and the women, who still work barefooted -in the fields, have somewhat of a ruddy -brown in their complexion, instead of the -sallowness, that renders the ferocious, or -sullen air of the others more striking. They -are also better dressed; for, though they retain -the slouched woollen hat, they have -caps; and towards the borders of Switzerland -their appearance becomes picturesque. -Here they frequently wear a blue petticoat -with a cherry-coloured boddice, full white -sleeves fastened above the elbow, and a -muslin handkerchief thrown gracefully -round the neck in a sort of roll; the hair -sometimes platted round the head, and held -on the crown with a large bodkin. On -holidays, the girls have often a flat straw -hat, with bows of ribband hanging behind. -Higher up, the women wear their long black -hair platted, but falling in a queue down -the back.</p> - -<p>The cottages are also somewhat better, -and the sides entirely covered with vines, -on which, in the beginning of July, were -grapes bigger than capers, and in immense -quantities. Sometimes Turkey corn is put -to dry under the projections of the first -floor, and the gardens are ornamented with -a short alley of hops. Meat is however bad -and scarce; the appearance so disgusting -before it is dressed, that those, who can accommodate -their palates to the cooking, -must endeavour to forget what they have -seen. Butter is still more scarce, and the -little cheese that appears, is only a new -white curd, made up in rolls, scarcely bigger -than an egg. A sort of beer is here made -for servants, the taste of which affords no -symptom of either malt or hops; it is often -nearly white, and appears to have been -brewed but a few hours; what is somewhat -browner is bottled, and sold at about threepence -a quart.</p> - -<p>Our road, this day, was seldom more -than two leagues distant from the Rhine, -and we expected to have heard the fire, -which the Austrian and French posts, who -have their batteries on the two banks of the -river, frequently exchange with each other. -The tranquillity was, however, as sound as -in any other country, and nothing but the -continuance of patroles and convoys reminded -us of our nearness to the war. The -peasants were as leisurely cutting their harvest, -and all the other business of rural life -was proceeding as uninterruptedly, as if -there was no possibility of an attack. Yet -we afterwards learned, that the French had, -very early on the morning of this day, ineffectually -attempted the passage of the -Rhine, about fifteen miles higher up; and -the firing had been distinctly heard at a -little village where we dined.</p> - -<p>One road, as short as this, lies immediately -upon the margin of the river; and, -as we were assured that none but military -parties were fired at, we wished to pass it, -for the purpose of observing the ingenious -methods, by which a country so circumstanced -is defended; but our postillion, who -dreaded, that he might be pressed by the -Austrians, for the intrusion, refused to venture -upon it, and, instead of proceeding to -Kehl, which is directly opposite to Strasbourg, -we took the road for Offenburg, -about three leagues from the Rhine.</p> - -<p>The country through which our route -now lay, better as it is than more northern -parts, has suffered some positive injuries by -the war. Before this, all the little towns, -from Carlsruhe downwards, maintained -some commerce with France, on their own -account, and supplied carriage for that of -others. In return for provisions and coarse -commodities for manufacture, carried to -Strasbourg, they received the silks and -woollens of France, to be dispersed at -Franckfort, or Manheim. The intercourse -between the two countries was so frequent, -that nearly all the tradesmen, and many of -the labouring persons in this part of Germany -speak a little French. The landlord -of the house, where we dined, assured us -that, though his village was so small, he had -sufficient business before the war; now he -was upon the point of removing to Offenburg, -being unable to pay his rent, during -the interruption of travelling.</p> - -<p>A little before sun-set, we came to Appenweyer, -one of these towns, from the -entrance of which the spires of Strasbourg -were so plainly visible that we could see the -fanes glittering against the light, and even -the forms of the fortifications near the water -could be traced. In the midst of the -straggling town of Appenweyer the loud -sounds of martial music and then the appearance -of troops, entering at the opposite -end, surprised us. This was the advanced -guard of several Austrian regiments, on -their march to re-inforce the allied army -in the Low Countries. Our postillion had -drawn up, to surrender as much of the road -as possible to them, but their march was so -irregular, that they frequently thronged -round the carriage; affording us sufficient -opportunity to observe how far their air -corresponded with what has been so often -said of the Austrian soldiery.</p> - -<p>Except as to their dress and arms, their -appearance is not military, according to any -notion, which an Englishman is likely to -have formed; that is, there is nothing of -activity, nothing of spirit, of cheerfulness, -of the correctness of discipline, or of the -eagerness of the youthful in it. There is -much of ferocity, much of timid cruelty, -of sullenness, indolence and awkwardness. -They dress up their faces with mustachios, -and seem extremely desirous to impress terror. -How far this may be effectual against -other troops we cannot know; but they -certainly are, by their ferocious manners, -and by the traits, which a nearer view of -them discloses, very terrible to the peaceful -traveller. Though now immediately under -the eyes of their officers they could scarcely -refrain from petty insults, and from wishfully -laying their hands upon our baggage.</p> - -<p>About a thousand men passed in two -divisions, which had commenced their -march a few hours before, for the purpose -of avoiding the heat of the day. As we -proceeded, the trodden corn in the fields -shewed where they had rested.</p> - -<p>It was night before we reached Offenburg, -where we were compelled to lodge -at a wretched inn called the Post-house, -the master of the other having that day -removed to admit a new tenant; but the -condition of the lodging was of little importance, -for, all night, the heavy trampling -of feet along the road below prevented -sleep, and with the first dawn the sound of -martial music drew us to the windows. It -seemed like a dream, when the Austrian -bands played <i>ça ira</i>, with double drums, -and cymbals thrown almost up to our -casements, louder than any we had ever heard -before. This was the main body of the -army, of which we had met the advanced -party. Each regiment was followed by a -long train of baggage carriages, of various -and curious descriptions, some of the cabriolets -having a woman nearly in man's -apparel in the front, and behind, a large -basket higher than the carriage, filled with -hay. This "tide of human existence" continued -to pass for several hours. But the -whole army did not consist of more than -three regiments of infantry, among which -were those of D'Arcy, and Pellegrini, and -one of horse; for each of the Austrian regiments -of foot contains, when complete, two -thousand three hundred men. They had -with them a small train of artillery, and -were to proceed to the Low Countries as -quick as they could march; but, so uniform -are the expedients of the councils of Vienna, -that the opportunity of carrying these -troops down the Rhine in barges from -Phillipsburg, where it was practicable, was -not adopted, though this method would -have saved two weeks out of three, and -have landed the army unfatigued at its -post.</p> - -<p>All their regimentals were white, faced -either with light blue, or pompadour, and -seemed unsuitably delicate for figures so -large and heavy. The cavalry were loaded -with many articles of baggage, but their -horses appeared to be of the strongest and -most serviceable kind. This was a grand -military show, which it was impossible to -see without many reflections on human -nature and human misery.</p> - -<p>Offenburg is a small town, in the Margraviate -of Baden Baden, pleasantly seated -at the feet of the Bergstrasse, which the road -again approaches so near as to be somewhat -obstructed by its acclivities. Our way lay -along the base of these steeps, during the -whole day; and as we drew nearer to Switzerland, -their height became still more stupendous, -and the mountains of Alsace seemed -advancing to meet them in the long perspective; -the plains between, through which -the Rhine gleamed in long sweeps, appeared -to be entirely covered with corn, and in -the nearer scene joyous groups were loading -the waggons with the harvest. An harvest -of another kind was ripening among the -lower rocks of the Bergstrasse, where the -light green of the vines enlivened every -cliff, and sometimes overspread the ruinous -walls of what had once been fortresses.</p> - -<p>We passed many villages, shaded with -noble trees, which had more appearance of -comfort than any we had seen, and which -were enviable for the pleasantness of their -situation; their spacious street generally -opening to the grandeur of the mountain -vista, that extended to the south. In these -landscapes the peasant girl, in the simple -dress of the country, and balancing on her -large straw hat an harvest keg, was a very -picturesque figure.</p> - -<p>It was evening when we came within -view of Friburg, the last city of Germany -on the borders of Switzerland, and found -ourselves among mountains, which partook -of the immensity and sublimity of those of -that enchanting country. But what was -our emotion, when, from an eminence, we -discovered the pointed summits of what we -believed to be the Swiss mountains themselves, -a multitudinous assemblage rolled in -the far-distant prospect! This glimpse of a -country of all others in Europe the most -astonishing and grand, awakened a thousand -interesting recollections and delightful expectations; -while we watched with regret -even this partial vision vanishing from our -eyes as we descended towards Friburg. -The mountains, that encompass this city, -have so much the character of the great, -that we immediately recollect the line of -separation between Germany and Switzerland -to be merely artificial, not marked -even by a river. Yet while we yield to the -awful pleasure which this eternal vastness -inspires, we feel the insignificance of our -temporary nature, and, seeming more than -ever conscious by what a slender system our -existence is upheld, somewhat of dejection -and anxiety mingle with our admiration.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<p class="noindent"><strong>END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</strong></p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Transcriber's note: - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - The book cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in - the public domain. - </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY MADE IN THE SUMMER OF 1794, THROUGH HOLLAND AND THE WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY, WITH A RETURN DOWN THE RHINE, VOL I (OF 2)***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 62795-h.htm or 62795-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/2/7/9/62795">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/7/9/62795</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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