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diff --git a/old/62843-0.txt b/old/62843-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2b9c92b..0000000 --- a/old/62843-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1893 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Georgia's Stone Mountain, by Willard Neal - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Georgia's Stone Mountain - -Author: Willard Neal - -Release Date: August 3, 2020 [EBook #62843] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGIA'S STONE MOUNTAIN *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - Chief carver Roy Faulkner at work on the Stone Mountain Memorial - Carving, face of General Robert E. Lee. - - - - - Georgia’s Stone Mountain - - - by Willard Neal - - $2.00 - - [Illustration: This is a view of Stone Mountain before the carving.] - - - - - FOREWORD - - -Every traveler, on first viewing Stone Mountain, has stood in awe at the -foot of the looming monolith. Seasoned tourists and Georgia school -children are affected just as pioneer explorers were. The towering rock -is so impressive that each individual feels he is making the great -discovery. - -Questions arise. How did Stone Mountain come to be? How old is it, and -how high? Exactly how large is this biggest carving in the world. How -was it done? Who did it? Who first saw Stone Mountain? What effects has -it had on the development of our country? - -Thus, this book. It is dedicated to those who care enough to see and -study the wonders of their country, and who, in their travels, have had -the unexplainable and unexpected thrill of discovering Stone Mountain. - - - - - CARVING - - - [Illustration: Confederate President Jefferson Davis and Generals - Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson ride forever on Stone Mountain.] - -_Stone Mountain’s Confederate Memorial is the world’s largest piece of -sculpture, cut into the side of the world’s biggest exposed mass of -granite. The carving is 90 feet tall and 190 feet wide, stands eleven -and a half feet out from the side of the mountain, and towers 400 feet -above the ground in a frame that is 360 feet square, or three acres. -Fifty-five years elapsed from the time of the original concept in 1915 -until completion of the three figures in 1970. Not a blow of the hammer -was struck for 36 years, from 1928 to 1964._ - - -At Stone Mountain things have a way of coming out quite differently than -planned. - -History is a little hazy on who first envisioned a Confederate Memorial -on Stone Mountain. Mrs. Helen Plane, charter member of the United -Daughters of the Confederacy, was quoted in 1909 as thinking it would be -a fine place for a monument. In 1912 John Temple Graves, editor of the -New York American, after a visit back home wrote a rousing editorial for -the Atlanta Georgian urging that the world’s greatest monument be carved -on the world’s finest piece of stone. - -Actual movement began in 1915 when Mrs. Plane, then president of the -Atlanta chapter of UDC, suggested having a 70-foot statue of General -Robert E. Lee carved on the steep side of the mountain. The UDC -consulted Gutzon Borglum, who just then was being acclaimed for his -statue of Abraham Lincoln. The first look at Stone Mountain set -Borglum’s imagination afire. Here was the biggest, finest solid block of -granite any sculptor ever had an opportunity to carve. A small figure in -its center, he pointed out, would be like a postage stamp stuck on a -barn. - -The sculptor stayed several weeks at the nearby home of Samuel H. -Venable, head of the family that owned the mountain, while he studied -the great stone. Then he drew up sketches of Confederate leaders riding -around the mountain, which he submitted to a meeting of the UDC. - -In 1915 women were not even permitted to vote. Their principal -commercial experience was as salesladies, telephone girls and -seamstresses. When Borglum said the monument would require ten years and -cost three million dollars, the ladies were terrified. They wanted no -part of such an undertaking. - -On March 20, 1916, Sam Venable, Mrs. Coribel Venable Kellogg and Mrs. -Robert Venable Roper deeded the face of Stone Mountain and ten adjoining -acres to the UDC, with the proviso that the property would be turned -back to the original owners if a suitable monument was not completed in -twelve years. At their Chattanooga convention in 1917 the UDC ladies -founded an independent chartered organization known as the Stone -Mountain Confederate Monumental Association to manage the project. - -World War I stopped non-essential activities. In 1923 Borglum announced -that his designs were complete and he was ready to start carving. - -The world’s largest sculpture presented many unprecedented problems. A -difficult one was how to get a sketch of the monument on the -mountainside. Borglum announced that he would pour chemicals from above -to coat the stone with photographic emulsion, flash an image of his -model through a giant enlarger, and develop the picture by pouring down -more chemicals. By the time photographers explained to him that it could -not be done, his plan had been described in magazines and newspapers -around the world, and the Stone Mountain Memorial was news everywhere. -Borglum devised a method for using the idea, anyway. - -There was not even a precedent for determining the size of the carving. -The nearest thing was the rule that decreed the diameter of court house -clocks. By this scale the statues should be 35 feet high for viewing -from the studio 1,300 feet away. - -A crowd collected the evening the projector was set up. Borglum computed -the lens setting to give a 35-foot-tall image, inserted the plate -bearing a photograph of his model, and switched on the light. There was -a gasp from the spectators. Horses and men looked like midgets. - -Borglum enlarged the image until it assumed an impressive size, then -called to two men, swinging down the mountain in bos’n’s chairs, to -measure it. One dangled a tape from the top. The other, reading the -figure at the bottom, called out, “One hundred and sixty-eight feet!” - - [Illustration: Gutzon Borglum with his famous projector, and in the - studio with his model.] - - [Illustration: ... and in the studio.] - - [Illustration: Oxen hauled timbers up the mountain for the - stairway.] - - [Illustration: Visitors arriving the day carving was begun in June, - 1923.] - -The men carried buckets of paint and brushes for outlining the picture; -but when they started to work they could not tell men from horses nor -heads from feet, or where one figure ended and another began. The next -day Borglum traced the picture of his model as a line drawing on another -plate and that night his aides were able to outline the sketch. - -Motor trucks of that period were not powerful enough to climb Stone -Mountain. Materials needed to construct a stairway from the top down to -the carving site were hauled up the foot trail by ox cart. After the -stairs were finished, cable, pulley and winch were installed to bring up -materials for stairs down to the ground, scaffolding and tools. - -On June 23, 1923, Borglum led a group of dignitaries over the top of the -mountain and down to the platform above the carving site. Gov. E. Lee -Trinkle of Virginia made a dedicatory speech through a megaphone to -throngs below. Then Borglum had himself lowered by bos’n’s chair and, -with a pneumatic drill, punched several holes into the mountain as the -official beginning of the carving. - - [Illustration: Notables at lunch the day before Lee’s birthday in - 1924.] - - [Illustration: Borglum’s carvers at work.] - - [Illustration: Smoke descends with rock after a powder blast.] - -From the time he started, Borglum had five years to complete the -monument before the end of the 12-year deadline. On January 19, 1924, -anniversary of Lee’s birth, 20,000 gathered for the unveiling of General -Lee’s head. On the previous day a select party, including the governors -of Virginia, Texas and Alabama, had climbed over the mountain and -descended the stairs for a dinner at a table set up on the granite shelf -in front of the statue. - -A few months later work on the carving began to slow down. Personality -rifts between Borglum and members of the Association widened, and in -March, 1925, the sculptor destroyed his models and sketches, and left -Georgia. Other artists said the real reason for his tantrums was -distortion in the carving—he never could have finished it, and he was -trying to hide the blame. Taking a short cut in projecting his sketch -onto the mountain had been a fatal mistake. He went to South Dakota and -gained lasting fame by carving the Mount Rushmore masterpiece. - -No sign of Borglum’s work remains at Stone Mountain. However, he made a -vital contribution. It is doubtful if any other artist would have had -the imagination to visualize such a stupendous monument in such an -inaccessible place, or have had the nerve to start carving it. - -And he accomplished one thing that lasts. He designed the Confederate -half-dollar. Congress agreed for the mint to produce five million of -these coins, which, with the Association selling them for a dollar -apiece, could have financed the carving of the memorial. - -The next sculptor selected, Augustus Lukeman, was the exact antithesis -of his predecessor—a man of few words and apparently no temperament -whatever. - - [Illustration: Augustus Lukeman inspecting work on Lee’s face. Note - white model at left.] - -Starting April 1, 1925, Lukeman knew he could never complete the -memorial before the 12-year contract would expire in 1928. His hope was -to get enough done to show that he could and would finish it. So he -worked at top speed. Lukeman made a new design in classic style showing -President Jefferson Davis, General Robert E. Lee and Lieutenant General -Stonewall Jackson on horseback as the central figures, followed by an -army apparently marching out of the solid rock. His master model was on -a scale of 12-to-1—one inch on the model corresponded to a foot on the -mountain. - -Lukeman had the curving face of the mountain blasted off to a vertical -wall 305 feet wide by 190 feet high. Although the steep area looks -almost straight up, the bottom of the cut made a shelf extending outward -42 feet. - -To get his men up against the wall where they could work, Lukeman had -twenty-one 10-inch steel beams placed along the top of the cut, so they -extended 30 feet out into space. Workmen’s scaffolds were suspended from -these by steel cables, with winches to raise and lower them. A dozen men -usually were on the job, although 42 crowded the scaffolds during one -rush period. Only eight were carvers, the rest helpers. - -The sketch of Lukeman’s model was painted onto the mountain by -painstakingly measuring all the component points, so there could be no -distortions in the figures. - - [Illustration: Four men directing a pneumatic drill.] - - [Illustration: Lukeman’s original master model.] - -Cutting into Stone Mountain had to be done mechanically since explosives -can start a crack in granite that may run on for many feet. If an area -four feet high by two feet wide needed to be gouged out two feet deep a -jackhammer crew would drill a row of holes almost touching each other -down the sides and across the bottom, then a row slanting downward -across the top. Wedges were hammered into the slanting holes until the -block broke loose and plummeted earthward. - -A drill was good for only a few minutes in the hard granite before its -point was dulled, and a fresh one had to be inserted. The dull drills -were sent by cable and pulley down to the shop on the ground just out of -range of falling rock, where two blacksmiths were kept busy sharpening -and repairing tools. - -Whereas one man can hold a pneumatic drill straight up and down to break -up the paving in a street, it took four men per hammer to drill -horizontal holes into the face of the mountain. One guided the drill and -held it in place. Two helped lift the heavy hammer. The operator did his -share of lifting and worked the trigger. All exerted what force they -could to press the drill into the mountain. - -After a figure was blocked out in this manner, skilled carvers with hand -and air-powered tools completed the job. - -Lukeman blocked out the figures of Lee and Davis and finished their -faces and also roughly outlined Lee’s horse, Traveler, before the -deadline of March 20, 1928. It was evident that he was capable of -completing the monument. The Confederate Commemorative half-dollars were -arriving from the mint, and the way they were being bought up by the -public indicated that financing the carving would be no problem. -Altogether, 2,314,000 of these coins were struck. A million were melted -back into bullion, and the rest eventually were put into circulation. - -Incidentally, the coins had about as much material as could be stamped -into that small a piece of silver. On one side were Lee and Jackson on -horseback. Thirteen stars for the thirteen Confederate States showed -above them, and over this firmament was the slogan, “In God We Trust.” -At the bottom was “Stone Mountain, 1925.” On the back side were 48 -stars, the raised image of Stone Mountain with an eagle above it and -Miss Liberty, and printed below, “United States of America Half Dollar. -Memorial to the Valor of the Soldiers of the South.” - - [Illustration: Mayor Jimmy Walker of New York was guest of honor - when Lukeman’s Lee was unveiled.] - -The deadline date of March 20 came and went with no word from the -Venables about extending the contract. On April 9, the 63rd anniversary -of Lee’s surrender at Appomattox, Atlanta’s Gate City Guards militia -unit hosted an unveiling of the Lee and Davis features. The extremely -popular Mayor Jimmy Walker of New York was guest of honor. - -On May 20, 1928, the Venables reclaimed their property, ending the UDC’s -chance to complete the memorial. - -In 1958 the Georgia Legislature finally got around to developing the -state’s greatest tourist attraction. It named a Stone Mountain Memorial -Association, with authority to purchase the mountain and surrounding -land, 3,200 acres in all, for a state park, and to complete a -satisfactory Confederate monument. - -Nine of the nation’s leading sculptors were invited to visit Stone -Mountain and submit plans for the memorial. The Association approved a -suggestion by Walker Kirtland Hancook of Gloucester, Mass, for making -Lukeman’s uncompleted design appear intentional by carrying the carving -to a point that would be aesthetically satisfying, a device used -effectively by Michelangelo. - -Mr. Hancock was engaged in 1963 and charged with responsibility for -finishing the design according to his plan, for serving as a direct -consultant for the carving, and for developing the memorial area. - -The Association employed George Weiblen, whose family had operated the -quarry at Stone Mountain, to assemble a crew and get the mountain ready. -In 37 years the steel supports for the stairway had rusted out and -required replacing, as did the steel cables and scaffolding. Bids were -asked for a 400-foot elevator up to the carving, and when the costs -seemed entirely too high, a prefabricated elevator was ordered, and the -work crew put it up in 28 days. It was the world’s highest outside -elevator. - -A skilled carver was hired to begin the carving. He rode up on the new -elevator and studied from arm’s length the acre of granite which he was -expected to fashion into three horsemen. He found that he simply could -not visualize such gigantic figures at such close range. - -The foreman of the working crew, Roy Faulkner, a young Marine veteran -from nearby Covington, experimented with the new carving tool to be -used, and discovered he had a knack for it. Although the foreman had -never had an art lesson, and his only previous experience with stones -was throwing them, he was assigned some smoothing tasks by sculptor -Hancock while the search continued for an experienced carver. Soon the -search was forgotten. Roy Faulkner stayed on the face of the mountain -for more than six years, to complete the world’s largest carving. - -The new tool was the thermo-jet torch developed for use in granite -quarries. It consisted of an eight-foot pipe fed by three hose lines. -One hose carried kerosene, another oxygen, and the third water to be -sprayed through the jet nozzle to keep it cool. The operator could -adjust the flame to any temperature up to 4,000 degrees. - -When such intense heat strikes granite the moisture between molecules is -suddenly converted into steam, literally exploding the surface crystals, -or flaking them off, as quarrymen say. Flakes fell away in a continuous -stream. In coarse, deep gouging, slivers as big as dinner plates and -half an inch thick, sailed off the mountain like miniature red-hot -flying saucers. - -One thermo-jet torch could remove several tons of stone in a day; more -than 48 men could do in a week with drills and wedges. Carving with it -was a one-man job. Two men trying to work in the same area would have -bombarded each other with hot rocks. Even one could expect some lumps. -Exploding flakes popped out in many directions, sometimes straight back, -or ricochetting off the mountain or steel cables. The operator wore a -plastic shield over his face, as well as muffs to protect his ears from -the roar of the torch, which was the dominant sound in the north end of -the Park for six years. - -The torch acted like a miniature jet engine, developing about as much -backward thrust as an automatic shotgun. The carver had to keep his body -braced against this force as long as the flame was lit. - -Fine carving was done with a tool half as large. With the flame adjusted -as thin as an acetylene torch’s, it could cut along a pencil mark. - -The carving was continued from Lukeman’s master model, with several -important changes made by Hancock. He stopped the monument below the -riders’ knees, creating an illusion that the horsemen were just emerging -from the rough stone. This saved months of carving that would have -produced no more than a view of horses’ legs and hooves. The army that -Lukeman planned to have following behind was left off entirely, making -the three leaders the entire monument. The sculptor lowered the head and -neck of General Lee’s horse so that more of President Davis and his -horse could be seen, and he gave Davis a civilian hat instead of the -campaign hat Lukeman modeled. And, Hancock modeled a new head of -Stonewall Jackson to make him look more like the photographs taken just -before the General’s death. - -Looking at the finished work, it seems amazing that a man could get his -first lesson in carving on the world’s biggest monument, and go on to -complete it. In explaining how he carved, Faulkner said that mostly he -measured. If he was to start a new feature, like the knuckle of General -Lee’s first finger, he measured the distance to it from his center line -on the master model. Then he checked to get the distance to the knuckle -from Lee’s ear, his nose, Davis’ eye, the ear tips of the horses, and -other spots. Interpolating inches on the model to feet for the -mountainside, he measured from corresponding points on the carving. When -all the measurements came out at the same place, he drilled a hole there -to the exact depth corresponding to the distance from the knuckle to the -plumb line at the front of the model. To insure against cutting away too -much of the adjoining stone, he measured and drilled depth holes for all -of the features nearby. - -After making certain that all the measurements were correct, he fired up -the large torch and cut down to within half an inch of the bottom of the -holes, then switched to the smaller torch to carve the rest of the way. - -He said he always tried to keep in mind the first fundamental of -sculpture—never cut too deep nor in the wrong place. He thoroughly -understood that carvers cannot erase mistakes nor paint over them nor -sew them up. The only way is not to make them. - - [Illustration: Stonewall Jackson’s cap.] - - [Illustration: Carving Jackson’s arm.] - - [Illustration: An interesting portrait of Sculptor Walker Kirtland - Hancock.] - - [Illustration: Roy Faulkner’s torch sends out slabs of hot granite - like flying saucers.] - - [Illustration: Ray Faulkner’s torch.] - - [Illustration: Sculptor Hancock lowering head of Lee’s horse on the - master model.] - -The jet flames glazed the surface of the remaining stone, leaving a -grayish glassy effect. This was removed and the whiteness of the live -granite restored by going over it lightly with a surfacing machine, a -vibrating tool driving a four-point tip. - -Roy Faulkner figures that in six years he drilled thousands of holes in -the acre of granite—more than ants ever dug in an acre of meadow. -Experience did not speed up the work much. He was just as careful -measuring the last points to be carved as the first. - -There were special models of the heads of men and horses, on a scale of -four-to-one. When working on a head Faulkner took the corresponding -model up on the scaffold for ready and frequent references. -Incidentally, errors in the harness showed that Mr. Lukeman’s experience -with horses had been purely academic. He had all the harness buckles -backward, so that a hard pull on the reins would have made the bridles -come apart. The buckles are turned around right on the mountain. - -The sheer side of Stone Mountain would seem a lonely place to spend six -years, but the man who was up there never found it lonesome. He had a -couple of aides to stretch the opposite end of the tape measure, help -raise and lower scaffolding and do other jobs, but conversations could -not be heard over the roar of the torch. - -“The entire job was one of the most satisfying experiences anyone could -have,” Faulkner declared. “In the first place, it was a privilege to be -associated with such a great man as Mr. Hancock. - -“Everything about the work was a challenge. The danger was very real. I -was aware every minute I was up there that a misstep, or a little -carelessness, could drop me to my death. The wind helped keep me on my -toes. When you hardly noticed a breeze on the ground, it could be -gusting at 50 miles an hour, first into your back, then bouncing off the -mountain into your face. - -“The work was hard enough to keep a man in trim. After leaning against -the thrust of that jet for an hour or two or three, when I turned off -the flame, I felt like taking a rest. There was enough climbing up and -down ladders to keep legs and lungs in good order. - -“For six years I worried that I might make a mistake. After coming down -in the evenings I checked over the day’s figures in the studio to make -sure they were right. Then I drove home with them in my head, ate with -them, and often slept with them. The worst dream I ever had was the time -I saw General Lee’s head lying in the ditch at the base of the mountain. - -“Among my greatest experiences was, on several occasions, to look into -the stone and visualize the full outline of the feature I was about to -carve. Then I often got the opposite reaction just before I finished -with a component such as a horse’s eye or nostril. From the close-up -view it seemed to be the wrong shape or in the wrong place, and up there -on the mountain you don’t step back for a better look. It was a relief, -on coming down, to see that it fit. - -“I realized at all times that I was carving the largest piece of -sculpture that man ever attempted, one that would last through eternity. - -“You could hardly do anything more satisfying than that.” - - - - - HISTORY - - - [Illustration: Magazine artist’s view of Stone Mountain in - ante-bellum times.] - -The earliest history of the mountain was literally dug up by Lewis -Larson, Jr., assistant professor of anthropology at Georgia State -College in Atlanta. He explored the present bottom of the lake around -the western side while the dam was being built. Along with more recent -artifacts, Mr. Larson and his helpers collected shards of soapstone -bowls and dishes, carved and used by Stone Age people possibly five -thousand years ago, long before early Americans learned to shape and -bake pottery. - -Local historians have tried hard to find evidence that Hernando de Soto -visited Stone Mountain. Actually, if that old conquistador had set out -to touch all the points his name has been associated with, his iron-clad -ghost would still be riding hard and only half way through its -itinerary. De Soto certainly did not see this rock, or his chroniclers -would have described it in detail as a large-scale replica of the -Gibraltar they left behind. - -The first white man to see Stone Mountain seems to have been Captain -Juan Pardo, sent by the Spaniards in 1567 to encircle Georgia with -forts. He followed somewhat the route taken by de Soto’s ill-fated -expedition. Pardo fared some better. He got back to St. Augustine with -his life, but he did little fortifying. - -Pardo regarded as his most important achievement the discovery of what -he called Crystal Mountain, a great mountain that glistened in the sun -and was surrounded with diamonds and rubies and other precious stones -lying on the ground for the picking up. Unfortunately, Indians kept him -and his men too busy for gem collecting at that time. - -The captain spent the rest of his life at St. Augustine trying to raise -a force of 500 men for another trip to Crystal Mountain, promising to -make every one of them rich, as well as any who would help finance the -expedition. Since he had failed in his fort-building mission and had not -been able to pick up a pocketful of gems, even when he was walking—or -running—over them, he was unable to find 500 men willing to risk life -and fortune on the venture. Pardo’s diamonds and rubies are still to be -found on top of the ground at the base of the mountain. They are -crystals of quartz, fully as beautiful as gem stones, but not so rare, -and therefore not so valuable. Many of today’s visitors, less hurried -than the captain and his men, pick up a few for souvenirs. - -The first eye-witness description of Stone Mountain in English appears -to have been an account written by a British officer and published in -London in 1788. The Britisher almost certainly came into the area to -incite Indians to fight against the colonists in the Revolutionary War. -Unlettered traders probably viewed it earlier than that, but seeing no -profit, dismissed it as being of no consequence to themselves. - -The mountain enacted its first role in modern history on June 9, 1790. -President George Washington had sent Colonel Marinus Willet to confer -with chiefs of the Creek Nation and arrange for an emissary to visit him -at the capitol in New York. In that era of few addresses in the -wilderness the meeting was scheduled for Stone Mountain as a spot -familiar to all the Indians. - -The colonel reported in his _Narration of the Military Acts of Col. -Marinas Willet_: - -“Here we found the Cowetas and Curates to the number of eleven waiting -for us. While I was at Stony Mountain, I ascended the summit. It is one -solid rock of a circular form about one mile across. Many strange tales -are told by the Indians of the mountain. I have now passed all Indian -settlements and shall only observe that the inhabitants of these -countries appear very happy.” - - [Illustration: Elias Nour and Willard Neal near the top of Stone - Mountain] - -The colonel could have made us all happier by setting down some of the -stories he was told. By his failure to do so, those strange tales are -lost forever. Incidentally, even in 1790 the southern Indians were no -longer savage aborigines. They had been trading with the Spanish, -British and French for more than two hundred years, had adopted many of -the white men’s ways and utterly forgotten much of their tribal lore. -Their extensive farms had grown up in trees and their elaborate system -of trade had been abandoned, while they depended largely for their -living on hunting for furs or hiring out in the white men’s wars. - -Head of the Indian delegation at Stone Mountain was Alexander -McGillivray, son of a Scotch trader and a half-breed Indian princess. -After completing his education in Baltimore, McGillivray worked in a -counting house in Savannah until the start of the Revolution, then -returned to his mother’s tribe in Alabama where he quickly rose to chief -of the United Creeks, and the Seminoles and Chicamaugas as well. He also -became a colonel in the British Army, in return for inciting his -tribesmen to harass settlers in Georgia and Tennessee. - -After the war ended and the British left, McGillivray accepted a similar -role with the Spanish in Florida. President Washington sent for him, -hoping to placate him and stop the depredations along the frontier. - - [Illustration: The assassination of Chief William McIntosh.] - -Twelve more chiefs arrived for the meeting at Stone Mountain, making -twenty-three, with a lot of braves, most of whom were relatives of the -chiefs, and Willet started with them on the long and colorful procession -to New York. - -McGillivray accepted payment for his property in Savannah that had been -confiscated. The Georgia colony already had twice bought and paid for -the land east of the Oconee River, but McGillivray sold the same land -again, and signed a third treaty for $100,000. For assurance against -further Indian troubles, Washington commissioned him brigadier general -in the United States Army and awarded him a pension of $1,200 a year. - -McGillivray went immediately to Pensacola, where the Spaniards -proclaimed him emperor of the Creeks and Seminoles and paid him $3,500 a -year to continue harassing Georgia settlers. He died in 1793 of “gout of -the stomach,” which may have been an unidentified poison. - -In 1802 the Creeks signed a treaty giving up their lands west of the -Oconee River to the state line. Georgia then ceded the Alabama and -Mississippi territories to the United States government in exchange for -a promise to remove all the Indians from within the state’s borders, a -pledge that was not carried out. The state began distributing the land -by lottery in 1803. - -Reports of the rock that was as big as a mountain continued to arouse -wide interest, but they were descriptions given by Indians. Few white -men still had seen it. M. F. Stephenson, the famous gold assayer of -Dahlonega, wrote that in 1808 an Englishman returned to London with the -story, but the location of the mountain was so far from the Blue Ridge -peaks that he thought it was man-made. The president of the Academy of -Arts and Sciences in Paris addressed a letter to the Hon. R. W. -Habersham of Savannah asking for the dimensions and other data -concerning this vast relic of _architectural_ grandeur. - -The frontier continued in turmoil, which reached a climax through -incitement of the Indians by the British in the War of 1812. In 1814 -Andrew Jackson, with 2,500 militiamen and a lot of Cherokees, cornered -and practically annihilated the militant branch of the Creeks at -Horseshoe Bend of the Coosa River in Alabama. - -During the years several more treaties concerning the Stone Mountain -area were signed and ignored. The Creeks enacted the death penalty for -any chief who disposed of any more of the tribe’s properties. Then Chief -William McIntosh again sold the land between the Oconee and -Chattahoochee rivers for $400,000 in a treaty signed at Indian Springs -in February, 1825. Two months later he was riddled with bullets from a -hundred Creek rifles. - -The next year, in 1826, President John Quincy Adams invited thirteen -Creek chiefs to Washington and bought the land east of the Chattahoochee -again. - -One of the first literate descriptions of Stone Mountain was written by -the Rev. Francis R. Goulding, noted novelist and inventor, who spent his -later years at Roswell, forty miles away. Goulding visited the mountain -on June 25, 1822, as a 12-year-old, with his father, a cousin, a -Cherokee guide named Kanooka, and a slave boy named Scipio. The elder -Goulding, a prosperous merchant of Darien on the coast, had just -recovered from a severe spell of fever and recuperated by taking his son -to the mountains to visit with the Cherokees that summer. Young Francis -wrote: - -“Twenty miles away to the southeast a vast prominence of rock loomed in -lonely grandeur above the horizon. It was the great natural curiosity of -the neighborhood, of which we had often heard and which we had resolved -to visit at our first opportunity. That time had now come. Indeed, the -fame of the great rock had extended to the Old Country, and had there -excited interest through the representation of a British officer who had -visited and described it as early as the year 1788. - -“At the time of our visit the country around had barely passed into the -hands of the white man, and there were few roads and fewer houses of -accommodation. Our tent was pitched beside a spring near the mountain’s -base, around the north and west of which flows a pleasant stream. From -this point the rock rose majestically, with an almost perpendicular face -of a thousand feet. We enjoyed its rough grandeur almost as much by the -soft light of the moon as we did by the red light of the setting sun. - -“Taking an early breakfast the next morning, we made our way first to -the eastern side of the mountain. Here the view was stupendous. A bare, -hemispherical mass of solid granite rose before us to the height of two -or three thousand feet, striped along its sides as if torn by lightning -or ‘gullied’ by the action of water through countless ages. - -“Our ascent was effected on the southwestern side, where the slope is -comparatively easy and where the otherwise baldness of the rock is -relieved by an occasional tuft of dwarfed cedars or stunted oaks, which -find a root hold in the crevices. These trees, elevated a quarter of a -mile above the surrounding level, seem to be a favorite resort for -buzzards, many of which were wheeling in graceful flight in the air -around, and a greater number which perched upon dead treetops, -apparently resting from their labors and watching from the convenient -height for objects on which they might feed in the level country below. - -“We found the summit an irregularly flat oval about a furlong in length. -The view from it was superb. Not another mountain could be seen in any -direction within a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles. The country -all around seemed to be an immense level, or rather a basin, the rim of -which rose on all sides to meet the blue of the sky. To the east and -south appeared a few clearings, but in every other direction the forest -was unbroken. - -“Encircling the summit, at a distance of nearly a quarter of a mile from -its center, was a remarkable wall, about breast high, built of loose, -fragmentary stone, and evidently meant for a military fortification; but -when erected, and by whom, we could not learn. Kanooka said that it was -there when his people first came, and that they knew no more of it than -we did. In some places the stones were almost all dislodged by persons -who had rolled them down the steep declivity but there were enough -remaining to show that the wall had once been continuous all around the -summit, and that the only place of entrance was by a natural doorway -under a large rock, so narrow and so low that only one man could enter -at a time, by crawling on his hands and knees.” - - [Illustration: Carver Roy Faulkner working with the small finishing - torch. Notice the fine detail in General Lee’s features and the - sweep of his famous white beard.] - - [Illustration: The scaffolds swinging against the carving, hundreds - of feet above the ground, were the working area for the carver and - his aides for six years.] - - [Illustration: Scaffolds.] - - [Illustration: Scaffolds.] - - -Colorful flowers on Stone Mountain. - - [Illustration: A field of _Viguiera porteri_, or Confederate - daisies.] - - [Illustration: White milkweed, _Asclepeas variegata_.] - - [Illustration: Rare _Hypericum splendens_.] - - [Illustration: Evening primrose, _Oenothera fruticosa_.] - - [Illustration: _Rosa Carolinia_.] - - [Illustration: Practically every square foot of exposed granite is - covered with lichens or mosses.] - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -All the mountain’s early visitors were intrigued by the pre-historic -wall. Some thought de Soto might have had it built, without considering -that the aim of the conquistadores was to find treasure, grab it and -run. They were not interested in defensive strongholds, and certainly -not in building one that would entail carrying thousands of tons of rock -up a steep mountain. All the early writers described the wall as a -cleverly contrived fortress, since it blocked all trails leading to the -summit. However, the most ignorant savage certainly would have realized -that the top of Stone Mountain would be untenable in a siege, since -there was no water and no access to food. It is the last place anyone -would want to be caught when shooting started. - -Most likely, the wall had some religious or ceremonial significance. -Toting rocks and stacking them in a line is the kind of project ancient -medicine men liked to think up to keep their tribesmen occupied, like -building the great mounds throughout the South and down into Mexico and -South America. Even today it is not hard to visualize weirdly painted -warriors climbing the mountain in a torchlight procession and dancing -all night around a roaring fire at the top. Consider, too, the old -medicine men’s penchant for human sacrifice. At dawn the frenzied crowd -probably hurled some luckless victim over the rim, while the women and -children, who had waited below all night to see the poor devil fall, -screamed and cheered, feeling sure that the gods would be so happy about -the whole thing that they would assure bountiful crops and good hunting. - -Another stone wall stands atop Fort Mountain overlooking Chatsworth, a -hundred miles to the northwest, and it, too, is built at the edge of a -high precipice. - -The Stone Mountain wall must have contained millions of rocks, for there -were enough to let men and boys test their muscles by rolling stones off -the mountain for more than a hundred years, until Gutzon Borglum, the -sculptor, had the last ones thrown off in 1923 to make sure vandals did -not start them rolling down among his workmen. - -A feature on the mountain top surely as impressive as the great wall was -the Devil’s Cross Roads. This was a tremendous flat boulder roughly two -hundred feet across and five to ten feet thick, cleft by two smooth, -straight breaks making avenues four feet wide, one running directly -north and south, the other east and west. They joined at right angles at -the center, and directly over this juncture was another flat rock twenty -feet in diameter. - -The Cross Roads became a favorite spot to have breakfast for parties who -climbed the mountain to watch the sunrise. And everybody wondered that -nature could make a compass as accurate and a great deal more -spectacular than the ancient Egyptians could do. The entire formation -disappeared in 1896 when quarrymen found that it was composed of -superior building stone and broke it up and let it down the mountain by -winches. - -DeKalb County was founded Dec. 9, 1822. - -The DeKalb County courthouse in Decatur burned in 1842, destroying most -of the early deeds that were on record. There are some interesting -legends concerning early ownership which, because of the destroyed -documents, can neither be proved nor disproved. - -Perhaps the first white settler to claim ownership of the mountain was -John W. Beauchamp. His descendants still tell how their -great-great-great-grandpa gave Indians forty dollars and a pony worth -about fifty dollars for the big rock. They say he traded it to Andrew -Johnson and Aaron Cloud for a muzzle-loading gun and twenty dollars. -There are legends that a jug of whiskey figured in both deals. - -If Beauchamp received or gave a bill of sale, it has not come to light -in recent years. He never explained how the Indians got their claim to -the property. It may have been a sudden inspiration, conjured up at -sight of the jug. No formal deed could have been available, since the -whole area was still in public domain. - -In 1822, the year Francis Goulding explored the mountain, the State -Legislature prepared the original land grants. The mountain lay in seven -different land lots, which apparently were awarded to veterans of the -Revolutionary War. One lot went to the orphans of a veteran. - -It is said that a man in Athens was awarded one of the grants. He walked -the sixty miles or so to the mountain to examine his property, and -seeing that most of it was bare rock, he swapped it for a mule to ride -home. - -Andrew Johnson, who already had a shotgun claim to the mountain, was not -one of those receiving grants, but he acquired bona fide title to -considerable land at the base and also the main slice of the mountain in -time to build an inn, about where the Administration Building is now, -when the stage coach line came through in 1825. The stage ran from the -capital at Milledgeville by Eatonton and Covington to Stone Mountain, -then on by Winder to Athens where the oldest chartered State University -was already dispensing higher education. - -Discovery of gold in the Dahlonega and Gainesville area in 1828, the -first deposits found north of Mexico, brought a boom in traffic and -another stage line from Stone Mountain to the gold fields. Fare was ten -cents a mile, and since distances were great, the business must have -been profitable. - -Everybody bent on mining gold had to pass Stone Mountain, and any coming -back, with or without new riches, stopped there again. Aaron Cloud, -Johnson’s partner in the shotgun deal, built another inn to take care of -the overflow. A town calling itself New Gibraltar grew up around the -taverns, with general stores, a blacksmith shop and other services for -the traveling public and the growing farm population. - -In that era of typhoid, chronic malaria and yellow fever epidemics, -prosperous planters and merchants in the lowlands sent their families to -the mountains during the “summer miasmas”—the fly and mosquito seasons -we realize now—and the most enjoyable part of the trip each way was the -stopover of a day or two at Stone Mountain to climb the great rock and -unlimber kinks caused by days of rough bouncing in stagecoach or -carriage. - -Aaron Cloud was the first to establish a tourist attraction. In 1838 he -paid Andrew Johnson $100 for “150 feet square” at the highest point on -the mountain, where he erected a tower 165 feet tall, appropriately -called Cloud’s Tower. For fifty cents a visitor who already had winded -himself reaching the summit could climb another 300 steps and get a -still higher view. - -William C. Richards, a correspondent for “Georgia Illustrated,” -published in Macon, wrote in 1842: - -“This singular edifice, resembling somewhat a lighthouse, is an -octagonal pyramid built entirely of wood. It stands upon the rock with -no fastening but its own gravity. It was built nearly three years ago at -a cost of $5,000. The projector and proprietor is Mr. Aaron Cloud of -McDonough, and the work is commonly called Cloud’s Tower. - -“In the lower part is a hall one hundred feet square fitted up for the -accommodation of parties. - -“We ascended by nearly 300 steps. The eyes rest upon a continuity of -forest. The plantations and settlements appear small amid the sea of -foliage. By the aid of good telescopes we distinguished five county -towns. Among the towns I located was Terminus, a few straggling huts -beyond Decatur.” - -While the 150-foot-square plat cost $100, another old deed shows that -Cloud paid Johnson only $260 for 101½ acres of good forest land at the -foot of the mountain. - -Another enterprising showman operated sometime in the Roaring Forties. -His name has been lost, but some of the work he did can still be seen. -He cut a trail for 250 feet, high up along the steep face extending out -from the Buzzard’s Roost, installed an iron railing, and charged anyone -who had the courage for such an adventure twenty-five cents to walk -gingerly out to the end and back. - - [Illustration: These boulders guard the approach to Buzzard’s Roost, - a grove of gnarled pines near the top. Stone Mountain’s only - airplane crash occurred in this area.] - - [Illustration: Broken ledges and scattered blocks of stone show - where granite was quarried.] - - [Illustration: A coach was left when the Stone Mountain railway was - abandoned.] - -In one respect the fellow was a hundred years ahead of his time. He -solved the traffic problem completely. Since only one person could go -out at a time, there was never a jam or collision. But ambition was his -undoing. While extending his trail still farther he blew himself into -oblivion with a premature explosion of blasting powder. - -Correspondent Richards especially mentioned Terminus as one of the -places he could see through Cloud’s telescope because the magic new town -was very much in the news. In 1842 engineers had just completed a survey -to establish the northernmost route a railroad could be built from -Augusta, the head of navigation on the Savannah River, around the Blue -Ridge Mountains and on to Chattanooga, a growing steamboat town on the -Tennessee. - -Terminus had been renamed Marthasville and then Atlanta by the time the -first train came over the line in 1845. Most of the town’s leading -citizens were waiting at Stone Mountain to board it for a triumphal ride -into their new city. - -The railroad had suddenly become so much more important than the stage -line that New Gibraltar moved over beside the tracks. In 1847 the -legislature granted the town a charter as Stone Mountain and also gave -the granite knoll, which had been called Rock Mountain and Stony -Mountain, the official name of Stone Mountain. That year a spur track -was built from the depot out to a point between the two inns operated by -Andrew Johnson and Aaron Cloud. - -Another historic event took place on that first train ride from Stone -Mountain to Atlanta, in 1845. The local leaders discussed organizing an -agricultural society to promote better farming and merchandising -methods. The first meeting of the South Central Agricultural Society was -held at the mountain in 1846, with 61 charter members. The following -year the Society held a fair at Stone Mountain. A Savannah reporter, -covering the event for his paper, wrote: “Wagons, carriages, carts and -pedestrians are arriving every minute. Ladies form a very large -proportion.” The correspondent’s concluding notation, that he slept in a -room with twenty-eight other people, explains why the fair was held at -Stone Mountain only two seasons. It was moved to more populous Atlanta -and grew into the great Southeastern Fair, while the society evolved -into the Georgia Department of Agriculture. - -The Civil War touched Stone Mountain to the extent that the flow of -tourists stopped, and a detachment of Union cavalry swooped in and -burned most of the town, sending up columns to join the smoke from -Atlanta, Decatur and other unfortunate neighbors. - -Stone Mountain’s granite, being too heavy for long hauls by wagon, had -no commercial value whatever until the coming of the railroad. The spur -line built in 1847 surely hauled rock as well as tourists. The first -official mention of the granite industry appears on a deed filed in -1863, when W. B. Wood and John J. Meador sold a parcel of land, but -reserved quarrying rights. - -In the Reconstruction Period, when Southern industry was at its lowest -ebb, the granite quarries flourished. Growing towns needed paving blocks -and curb stones. Buildings destroyed in the war had to be replaced. -William H. and Samuel H. Venable, as the Venable Brothers, expanded -until they had acquired the entire mountain in 1887, estimating that -altogether it cost them $48,000. The firm operated for seventy more -years, extending the railroad line around to the east side, where the -finest stone was found. - -Stone Mountain granite paved principal streets in most of the -Southeastern towns. At the height of their operation, the quarries were -turning out 200,000 paving blocks and 2,000 feet of curbing a day. In -addition, building stones went into the Atlanta Federal Penitentiary, -the famous Fulton Tower jail, many post offices, courthouses, -warehouses, and commercial buildings, into the foundations of -skyscrapers, to Panama for the canal locks; and tremendous blocks of -granite were shipped to the seacoasts from Charleston to New Orleans for -breakwaters. - -Will T. Venable, who grew up in the house nearest the steep side of the -mountain, told the writer of his boyhood there in the eighties for an -article published sixty years later. - -“The rarest sight is a rainbow on the mountain’s face,” Mr. Venable -said. “I have seen but two or three in my lifetime. They can only appear -very early in the morning, since the big rock faces to the north. The -bow always starts on the ground, climbs the mountain and disappears on -top. It almost makes you believe you might find a pot of gold up there. - -“When it rains, the side of the mountain looks like a waterfall. The -water turns into foam and literally bubbles down. When I was a youngster -we used to hang our clothes on convenient limbs and stand under the -falls for a foam bath. It was pleasant while you were taking it, but -when you dried off, you found yourself covered with very fine, hard -sand, which itched like the mischief. As you look at the side of the -mountain, you see the courses taken by the water as it pours off. A -close-up shows that the water has eroded little ditches two or three -inches deep. - -“The greatest show we ever had was the work on the carving,” Mr. Venable -continued. “If you have ever stood fascinated while a steam shovel dug a -hole in flat ground, maybe you can imagine how the work on the mountain -kept us entertained.” - -An incident odd enough to be typical of Stone Mountain’s history took -place in 1928, just after air mail was inaugurated. Little single-seated -biplanes gave overnight service between Atlanta and New York, at a -period when night-flying instruments were few and crude, and Stone -Mountain lay directly in the path of flight. At the pilots’ insistence, -a contractor was commissioned to erect a safety light on top. - - [Illustration: Lady fire watchers had an exciting Jeep ride and a - long climb to the old tower.] - - [Illustration: {Fire watchers in Jeep}] - - [Illustration: {Fire watchers in Jeep}] - - [Illustration: {The old tower}] - -Newspapers and visitors took note of the laborious work of carrying -steel poles and wire up the steep trail, then nothing more was said or -seen of the light until one dark night several weeks later Pilot Johnny -Kytle’s plane smashed itself and nine bags of mail helter skelter up the -steep slope, arousing neighbors for miles around. The Atlanta postmaster -was among those who rushed to the mountain to help Johnny and his load -of mail back to town. - -Then an investigation was launched, to determine why there was no light -on the mountain. The foreman on the job brought out his work sheet, -showing how he had checked off each item—the poles, bolts and braces, -the insulators, the wire, the socket, and the final item, he had turned -on the electricity. But the list given him had contained no mention of a -light bulb, so he had not screwed one in! - -Until the new recreation hall and observation tower were erected the -only construction on top of the mountain in recent years was a -60-foot-high forest fire-watcher’s tower, manned consecutively by two -women. They drove up every morning and down in the evening along the -foot trail by Jeep before any semblance of a road was made, and never -had a mishap. If a thundercloud approached, they came down in a hurry, -to reach the bottom before the storm bombarded the mountain with -lightning. - - [Illustration: This photo shows Elias Nour actually rescuing a dog - that slid part way down the mountain.] - -Night watching was done by men of the county fire department, and they -made it a point to go up before sundown and return after dawn. Trying to -come down the mountain at night is a fearsome experience, say those who -have done it. Every direction looks the same, and the horizon is just a -few yards away, since the rock curves off into space. - -The man most closely associated with Stone Mountain in recent years is -Elias Nour, whose family operated a restaurant near the foot of the east -trail. When Elias was thirteen he let himself be lowered at the end of a -rope to rescue a boy who had slipped over the crest and was clinging for -his life to a tiny depression in the rock. Since then he has rescued -thirty-three more persons who ventured so far down the mountainside that -they could not climb back. - -A peculiar thing, he noted, is that hardly any of the people he saved -ever bothered to thank him. Mostly they seemed embarrassed at having got -themselves into such a predicament, and they also appeared to think that -saving lives was part of his duties. An exception was a large dog, that -clung whining to the rock until young Nour reached his side. The dog -behaved perfectly while they were being hauled to safety. Once on top he -jumped upon Mr. Nour so suddenly that he knocked him down, then licked -his face and neck thoroughly before he was pulled away. - -There is no record of the number who have fallen to their deaths at -Stone Mountain, but it probably is far over a hundred. Some no doubt -were suicides, but the great majority were innocent victims of the -mountain’s treachery. The great dome rounds off so smoothly, and the -curve downward increases so gradually that the too-venturesome explorer -does not realize he is in trouble until he begins to slide, or attempts -to climb back up. Then he is fortunate indeed if he can find a tiny -crevice or slight depression that he can cling to until help comes down -to him from above. - -One of the first acts of the new Stone Mountain Memorial Association was -to erect a steel storm fence around the rim of the mountain, probably -about the same location as the ancient rock wall, as a grim warning that -venturing farther would be courting disaster. - - - - - FLORA - - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -If you wish to see a _Hypericum splendens_, you will look for it on the -steep slopes of Stone Mountain. This little hardwood shrub, about three -feet tall with bright yellow blossoms, is found nowhere else on -earth—not even on the similar, but lesser, granite outcrops of the area, -in DeKalb and Rockdale Counties. - -The _Hypericums_ grow thickest in tiny crevices about halfway up the -mountain and most are on the southwest side. None are found at the top -nor the bottom. The saucy little golden blossoms with many stamens are -about an inch across, and they appear in terminal clusters at the end of -branches. Just a few open at a time, so blooming is continuous through -most of June and July. - -The hardy little plant seems immune to drought and even indifferent to -weather. Rain or shine, hot or cold, has no effect on its growth or -blossoms. But each plant has a life expectancy of only about three -years, after which it dies down completely, to be replaced by -descendants coming up from seed. - -The great whale-shaped mountain of granite, far from being the bare rock -that it appears, is literally covered with plant life. Thirty specimens -of plants are listed as rare, and many more are so uncommon or so -regional as to be total strangers to nearly all visitors. - -Botanists from Emory and Georgia State Universities in nearby Atlanta, -and the University of Georgia in Athens, have regarded Stone Mountain as -their special laboratory since the schools were founded. In 1961 a -full-time horticulturist was employed to live on the mountain. Harold -Cox, from Stratford, England, studied at the Royal Botanical Gardens at -Kew. His assistant, Gerhard Oortman, grew up working in the magnificent -gardens of Eastern Holland. They have become intimately acquainted with -practically every weed, twig, bush and tree on Stone Mountain. - -They have ascertained that the _Hypericum_ is the only shrub that grows -nowhere else. Hoping to have specimens where visitors could recognize -them, without running the risk of having souvenir hunters exterminate -the genus, Cox and Oortman rooted some cuttings in the greenhouse and -set them out in a garden plot across from the carving—and saw them -promptly wither and die. However, some seed planted in the same ground -have sprouted and seem to be thriving. - -Stone Mountain’s botanical treasures are governed partly by the seasons -and partly by the amount of soil available. The most spectacular of the -unusual plants is the _Viguiera porteri_. It is so rare that it had no -common name until the Stone Mountain natives titled it Confederate -Daisy. It has relatives in Mexico, but the American branch is confined -entirely to Stone Mountain and other granite outcrops of Georgia’s -Piedmont Plateau. - -The Confederate Daisy grows in swales or crevices where sand or soil has -collected to a depth of three or four inches to a foot. The plants would -be regarded as skimpy little weeds throughout spring and summer. A dry -summer stunts the year’s crop. But when frequent showers dampen the -mountain’s surface, the scrawny plants put on a big spurt of growth in -August. About the middle of September they burst into great beds of -blooms, making the nearly bare rock look like a golden meadow. The -profusion of color lasts until mid October. - -In early spring the _Diamorpha cymosa_ spread like a bright red carpet -where soil is half to an inch deep. The color is in the plants, two or -three inches tall, and in the succulent round leaves. Tiny white -blossoms detract, rather than add, to the color. - -The _Amphianthus pusillus_ has no common name. It is a member of the -snapdragon family, but is so small that it is rarely noticed except by -naturalists who are looking for it. However, it leads a remarkable -existence. - -The _Amphianthus_ lives in the rain pits on top of the mountain, small -sunken areas where water collects after each shower. When the pit dries -up, the only sign of the plant is a little cyst under the sand and -gravel at the bottom. Immediately after a rain the cyst sends up a -little rosette of reed-like leaves that stay submerged. From their midst -a thread-like stem arises and sprouts two leaves half an inch across, -that float on the surface. A tiny bud appears between the two leaves, -and opens into a white flower no more than one-sixteenth of an inch -across. - -When the pool dries up, the plant disappears, quickly turning to dust, -except for the cyst, which waits patiently for the next rain to bring it -back to life. - -The _Amphianthus_ is not exclusive with Stone Mountain. It has been seen -on Mount Rollaway in Rockdale County, but it is missing from some of the -other granite outcrops. Cox called it a monotypic genus, which means it -is represented by the one genus. - -Sharing the larger rain pits are fairy shrimp, whose lives are -frequently interrupted. These minute crustaceans, hardly more than an -eighth of an inch long, look considerably like ocean-going shrimp when -viewed through a magnifying glass, and they even swim backward. They -disappear when the pits dry up, and come back soon after the next rain. -It is presumed that all mature specimens die in the drought, leaving -eggs which hatch when the water returns. - -The dark gray color of Stone Mountain is not the granite, but the -lichens which grow on practically all the weathered stone. Behaving like -booby traps, these pioneer plants have tricked a number of venturesome -climbers to their deaths. In a rain they absorb water and become quite -slippery, almost as if the stone were coated with grease. In dry weather -they crumble underfoot and the tiny particles roll like shot to start a -hiker sliding. Walking on almost level ground can become an adventure. - -The lichens are a pioneer plant form, a symbiotic relationship of fungi -and algae. A fungus, unable to manufacture carbohydrates when alone, -must live as a parasite on another plant. An alga can manufacture sugar -or starch, provided it is kept moist and has the necessary ingredients. -Working as partners, the fungi absorb and hold moisture and dissolve -some essential chemicals from the rock; the algae mix these and cook -with the sun’s energy to make food for the partnership. Their assault is -the first step in reducing stone to soil. In this duty they are followed -by grasses, weeds, shrubs and finally trees. - -There are three growth types of fungi: crustose, which appears as thin -crusts on the rocks, and is the most prevalent at Stone Mountain; -foliose, which has leaflike body and draws almost recognizable pictures; -and fruticose, which stands up in mossy little clumps. - - [Illustration: Two young explorers beside a rain pit at the top, - where fairy shrimp and the rare _Amphianthus pusillus_ live.] - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -Stone Mountain has a rare genus of the crustose, the _Pyrenopsis -phaecocca_ which is found only in Georgia, on the granite outcrops of -the Piedmont section from Atlanta to Augusta. Another crustose variety -is a dull, dark red and grows in splotches, so it looks as if a boy with -a wide brush had been smearing the boulders with barn paint. - -Some of Stone Mountain’s fruticose lichens stand up like little powder -puffs an inch or two tall, and are comparative to the extensive reindeer -moss of Alaska’s tundras. In a long drought many of the little clumps -break off and go blowing about the mountainside like miniature -tumbleweeds. - -Veteran quarrymen have noted that it takes about 25 years for a freshly -broken piece of granite to weather sufficiently for lichens to grow. - -Most spectacular of all Stone Mountain’s plant life are the trees. -Gnarled and twisted red cedars, almost a foot in diameter, cling -desperately to narrow cracks in the deep slopes. Some are estimated at -500 to 800 years old, and they look every bit of their age. - -Pines, stooped and bent by mountain winds and stunted by long summer -droughts, poke their roots into rock crevices and strain mightily to -widen the slits. Some of these may be 150 years old. On the other hand, -a giant loblolly growing in the rich red loam at the foot of the -mountain, near the grist mill, measured nine feet in circumference, and -had only 90 growth rings. - -Along the foot trail up the west slope are tall slim pines growing -almost normally in what appears to be little patches of dirt. There may -be deep loam-filled crevices below, but the health of the trees in such -sparse soil attests to the rich mineral content. High up on the eastern -slope, where a little silt has accumulated, is a small pine forest -called Buzzard’s Roost. - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -A rare tree is the _Quercus Georgiana_, or Georgia oak, which grows, but -hardly flourishes, on Stone Mountain and neighboring outcrops. It has -small glossy leaves two or three inches long, and tiny acorns. Few grow -taller than about 25 feet. - -Where enough dirt collects there may be blackberries, huckleberries, and -muscadine vines. - -Songbirds flock in great numbers to the gardens and groves around the -foot of Stone Mountain, but there is little wild life up on the rock, -itself. The soaring birds, such as vultures and hawks, are well -acquainted with the updrafts which lift them skyward like elevators when -the wind strikes the steep, smooth slopes, and they know where to find -the best rides for each direction the wind blows. - -While the memorial was being carved, workmen noticed a large hawk that -soared by at eye level nearly every day, apparently quite interested in -what they were doing. The men began leaving scraps of food at a certain -place near the top of the carving. The bird flew in for lunch every -afternoon, and he did not seem to mind if the men were working quite -near. However, the loud roar of the jet torch disturbed him. When it was -in operation he delayed his lunch until the flame was turned off. - -The workmen placed their lunches in a locker in a shed at the foot of -the mountain every morning. They began finding the latch unfastened and -the tastiest sandwiches missing, and soon identified the thief by -footprints in the dust—a raccoon. A more intricate latch kept the coon -out of the locker. The men put out food for him, and he always picked it -up after they were gone, but he did not fare as well on charity as he -had done while stealing. - -Stone Mountain has birds and bees and shrimp and lizards, but no snakes. -Harold Cox reported that he had not seen a single one in all his years -there. - - - - - GEOLOGY - - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -Stone Mountain, sixteen miles east of Atlanta, is the world’s largest -exposed granite monolith. It is as great a wonder to geologists today as -it was to Indian medicine men of ancient times. While geologists know -how it was formed and what it is made of, they still are amazed at its -tremendous size, its wonderful symmetry and its location, high and alone -on a gently rolling plateau over thirty miles from its nearest mountain -neighbor. - -This mountain is a perfect example of the unbelievably powerful forces -and the eternal patience of nature, for it was a million years in the -making and lay a hundred million years incubating before it arose like a -great egg on a vast plain in another hundred million years. - -Stone Mountain is 1,683 feet above sea level, and 825 feet above the -surrounding land which is itself a dividing ridge. Rain water running -off the eastern slope goes into the lake and out by the Yellow River. -That on the west finds its way to South River. The streams join 50 miles -away at Lake Jackson and flow on by the Ocmulgee and Altamaha to the -Atlantic Ocean. Three or four miles to the north, headwaters of -Peachtree Creek start their long trip to the Gulf of Mexico by way of -the Chattahoochee and Apalachicola. - -The exposed granite of Stone Mountain covers 25 million square feet, or -583 acres. A surveyor figured the mass at 7,532,750,950 cubic feet. -Since that time several million cubic feet have been quarried and -shipped away, but all of man’s endeavors show as insignificant peelings -taken from the western and eastern slopes. Granite weighs 167.9 pounds -per cubic foot, if you are interested in computing the weight of Stone -Mountain. - -Granite is the universal stone, containing practically all the natural -elements from uranium and aluminum to iron and silica and the rarer -minerals. It decomposes into fertile soil, as is readily seen by the -growth that springs up where a little dirt and moisture collect on the -gentler slopes of the mountain. - -Stone Mountain is near the foot of the Appalachians, an extremely -ancient mountain chain originally composed of granite gneiss. The peaks, -in their youth, rose much higher than the brash young Rockies, or even -taller than the Himalayas. Three hundred million years ago, when Stone -Mountain was born, the land in the area stood perhaps 10,000 feet higher -than it does now. - -During a period that may have lasted a million years or more, molten -stone under tremendous pressure was pushed upward from deep in the -earth. If the force behind it had been sufficient to drive it out at the -surface, the rock would have cooled rapidly and would have assumed a -different form. - -The weight of two miles or so of rocks and earth overhead was sufficient -to contain the tremendous pressure of the molten flow, so the upper -crust literally floated on a hot liquid base. - -Something had to give as liquid rock thrust into an area where there was -no space. Forty miles or so to the northwest is a chain of mountains, of -which Kennesaw is the tallest, formed by pressure from the side which -buckled underlying rocks up like a steep roof, or folded layers over -each other. Some of that pressure may have been applied by Stone -Mountain. This admittedly is theory—upper layers which held much of the -factual story have long since washed away. - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - -Since the intruding material was contained in its original prison cell -and held under constant pressure, it cooled gradually, a process which -took perhaps a hundred million years. By cooling slowly, the molecules -formed compact, uniform crystals. - -Meanwhile the older, softer granite overhead was weathering and turning -to soil and eroding away. Some went to extend the coastal area of -southeast Georgia and some to help build up the rich black belt of South -Alabama. - -In the two hundred million years since the intrusion, the two-mile-thick -overlay has eroded down to its present level, leaving the hard core of -Stone Mountain standing up like a great gray egg. The surface of the -mountain wears very slowly—scuffing feet of millions of visitors have -left barely discernible marks along the western trail. Meanwhile the -original crust is still wearing away at a rapid rate, so Stone Mountain -is continuing to grow taller in reference to its base. - -Around the base have been noted fingers of Stone Mountain granite -extending outward into the old rock, or sometimes soil, where the molten -material was forced into crevices during the lateral movement of -underground strata. - -The mountain is a natural target for lightning. Thunderclouds bombard it -with their heaviest artillery. A bolt of lightning behaves very much -like the thermo-jet torch. Its extreme heat converts moisture in -underlying molecules to steam and literally blasts off the surface -crystals, making a slight saucer-shaped depression four to six inches -across. Heat fuses the bottom of the depression, leaving a slick, glassy -surface. - -Every lightning bolt for many years has left its mark. It is noticeable -that they are thickest not on the highest points, but in depressions. -Meteorologists say that is where the first drops from a shower soak into -the granite and therefore make the best ground to attract the lightning. - -From the time Gutzon Borglum began carving in 1923, stone rubble piled -up at the base of the mountain below the monument. Hardly a man alive -could remember what lay under it. After nearly fifty years, when the -rubble was removed, there was revealed a low hill of the original -granite gneiss peeping out from under the mountain, or more accurately, -pushing into its side. The old rock clearly shows how it was twisted, -turned and tortured by the great pressures of two hundred million years -ago. Unable to shove aside this lot of rock, the molten mass tried to -engulf and digest it. - -We see only the tip top of Stone Mountain. The shape around the base -that will be revealed when more of the surrounding rock erodes away in -the next million years is anybody’s guess. The depth surely is infinite, -for it is still connected down through the channel by which it spewed -upward. - -Stone Mountain is unique. Chemical makeup of the granite, and its -physical characteristics, are different enough from all other stone in -the Southeast to indicate that this is the only portion of that ancient -flow of molten rock that has yet reached the surface. - - - - - ACKNOWLEDGMENTS - - -_A Short History of Georgia_, by E. Merton Coulter. University of North - Carolina Press, Chapel Hill, N. C., 1933. - -_Georgia’s Landmarks, Memorials and Legends_, Volume II, by Lucian Lamar - Knight. Byrd Printing Co., Atlanta, 1913. - -_Georgia: Unfinished State_, by Hal Steed. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, - 1942. - -_Empire Builders of Georgia_, by Ruth Elgin Suddeth, Isa Lloyd Osterhout - and George Lewis Hutcheson. The Steck Company, Austin, Tex., 1962. - -_Georgia: A Guide to the Towns and Countryside._ Federal Writing - Project, University of Georgia Press, Athens, 1940. - -_Story of Georgia, Volume III_, by Walter G. Cooper. The American - Historical Society, Inc., New York, 1938. - -_Cyclopedia of Georgia, Volume III_, by Ex-Governor Allen B. Candler and - General Clement A. Evans. State Historical Association, Atlanta, - 1906. - -_Sal-O-Quah or Boy Life Among the Cherokees_, by Francis R. Goulding. - Macon, Ga., 1870. - -_How Stone Mountain Was Created_, by Poole Maynard, Ph.D. Waverly Press, - Inc., Baltimore, U. S. A., 1929. - -_A Temple of Sacred Memories in the Breast of a Granite Mountain_, by - Augustus Lukeman. Lyon-Young, 1927. - -_History of Stone Mountain_, by Leila Venable Mason Eldredge. 1950. - -_Miscellanies of Georgia_, by Absalom H. Chappell. Gilbert Printing Co., - Columbus, Ga., 1874. - -_The History of Stone Mountain Memorial_, by Mildred Lewis Rutherford, - State Historian of Georgia Division of United Daughters of the - Confederacy. - -Files of The Atlanta Journal, The Atlanta Constitution, The Atlanta - Georgian, The Atlanta Journal Magazine, The Atlanta Journal and - Constitution Magazine. - -The Mary Carter Winter Stone Mountain Collection, donated to the Georgia - Department of Archives and History. - -Page 4: Borglum studio photo, courtesy Mary Carter Winters - -Page 5: Blast photo, courtesy Arthur B. Kellogg - -Page 6: Lukeman photo, courtesy Augustus Lukeman family - -Page 7: Workmen photo, courtesy Mary Carter Winters; Lukeman model photo - by Roy Faulkner - -Page 8: Lukeman unveiling photo by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 11: Upper left photo by Joe Tucker - -Page 12: Torch photos by Frank Rippitoe; Hancock and model photo by Roy - Faulkner - -Page 16: Photo by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 20-21: Carving color photo by Sara Stilwell - -Page 23: Flower color photos by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 26: Photo by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 29: Photo by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 32: Jeep photos by Sara Stilwell - -Page 33: Tower photo by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 39: Photo by Sara Stilwell - -Page 40-41: Photos by Kenneth Rogers - -Page 44: Photo by Kenneth Rogers - - -BACK COVER PHOTOS - -Scenes from the formal dedication of the Stone Mountain Memorial -Carving, May, 1970. - - [Illustration: _Top left_: 20,000 guests attended the ceremonies. - _Center left_: Georgia Senator Herman Talmadge (L) and Stone - Mountain Mayor Randolph Medlock. - _Center_: Young bandsmen from across the state participated in - day-long musical events. - _Right_: Georgia Secretary of State Ben W. Fortson, Jr. was - chairman of the Stone Mountain Memorial Association during the - dedication year. - _Lower_: The Vice President and his party arrived by helicopter, - flying directly by the carving.] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Georgia's Stone Mountain, by Willard Neal - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGIA'S STONE MOUNTAIN *** - -***** This file should be named 62843-0.txt or 62843-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/8/4/62843/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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