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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Craters of the Moon, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Craters of the Moon
- A Guide to Craters of the Moon National Monument, Idaho
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: August 21, 2020 [EBook #62994]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CRATERS OF THE MOON ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- Handbook 139
- Craters of the Moon
-
-
- A Guide to Craters of the Moon
- National Monument
- Idaho
-
- Produced by the
- Division of Publications
- National Park Service
-
- U.S. Department of the Interior
- Washington, D.C. 1991
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-
- _Using This Handbook_
-
-Craters of the Moon National Monument protects volcanic features of the
-Craters of the Moon lava field. Part 1 of this handbook introduces the
-park and recounts its early exploration. Part 2 explores how life has
-adapted to the park’s volcanic landscape—and how people have perceived
-it. Part 3 presents concise travel guide and reference materials for
-touring the park and for camping.
-
-National Park Handbooks are published to support the National Park
-Service’s management programs and to promote understanding and enjoyment
-of the more than 350 National Park System sites, which represent
-important examples of our country’s natural and cultural inheritance.
-Each handbook is intended to be informative reading and a useful guide
-before, during, and after a park visit. More than 100 titles are in
-print. They are sold at parks and can be purchased by mail from the
-Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office,
-Washington, DC 20402. This is handbook number 139.
-
-
- _Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data_
-
-Craters of the Moon: A Guide to Craters of the Moon National Monument,
-Idaho/produced by the Division of Publications, National Park Service.
-
-
- p. cm.—(Official national park handbook; 139)
- 1. Craters of the Moon National Monument (Idaho)—Guidebooks.
- 2. Geology—Idaho—Craters of the Moon National Monument—Guidebooks.
- I. United States National Park Service. Division of Publications.
- II. Series: Handbook (United States. National Park Service. Division
- of Publications); 139.
- F752.C7C73 1991 917.96'59—dc20 89-13670CIP
- ISBN 0-912627-44-1
-
-
- Part 1 Welcome to Craters of the Moon 4
- Rift Volcanism on the Snake River Plain 7
- Part 2 From Moonscape to Landscape 20
- Geology of the Craters of the Moon 23
- Life Adapts to a Volcanic Landscape 35
- Indians, Early Explorers, and Practicing Astronauts 47
- Part 3 Guide and Adviser 52
- Approaching Craters of the Moon 54
- Visitor Center and Programs 56
- Map 58
- Take the Driving Tour 59
- Camping and Backcountry Use 60
- Winter Recreation 61
- Regulations and Safety 62
- Nearby Attractions 63
- Armchair Explorations 64
-
-
-
-
- Part 1
- Welcome to Craters of the Moon
-
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- [Illustration: _Rock or rope? Folds of lava rock look like coils of
- irregular rope. Lava flows of this type are known as pahoehoe, a
- Hawaiian word pronounced_ pah-hoy-hoy _and meaning ropey_.]
-
-
-
-
- Rift Volcanism on the Snake River Plain
-
-
-Light playing on cobalt blue lavas of the Blue Dragon Flows caught the
-inner eye of explorer Robert Limbert: “It is the play of light at sunset
-across this lava that charms the spectator. It becomes a twisted, wavy
-sea. In the moonlight its glazed surface has a silvery sheen. With
-changing conditions of light and air, it varies also, even while one
-stands and watches. It is a place of color and silence....”
-
-Limbert explored the Craters of the Moon lava field in Idaho in the
-1920s and wrote those words for a 1924 issue of _National Geographic
-Magazine_. “For several years I had listened to stories told by fur
-trappers of the strange things they had seen while ranging in this
-region,” wrote Limbert, a sometime taxidermist, tanner, and furrier from
-Boise, Idaho. “Some of these accounts seemed beyond belief.” To Limbert
-it seemed extraordinary “That a region of such size and scenic
-peculiarity, in the heart of the great Northwest, could have remained
-practically unknown and unexplored....” On his third and most ambitious
-trek, in 1924, Limbert and W. C. Cole were at times left speechless by
-the lava landscape they explored. Limbert recounted his impressions in
-magazine and newspaper articles whose publication was influential in the
-area’s being protected under federal ownership. In 1924, part of the
-lava field was proclaimed as Craters of the Moon National Monument,
-protected under the Antiquities Act. It was created “to preserve the
-unusual and weird volcanic formations.” The boundary has been adjusted
-and the park enlarged since then. In 1970, a large part of the national
-monument was designated by Congress as the Craters of the Moon
-Wilderness. It is further protected under the National Wilderness
-Preservation System.
-
-Until 1986, little was known about Limbert except for those facts
-recounted above. That year, however, a researcher compiling a history of
-the national monument located Limbert’s daughter in Boise. The daughter
-still possessed hundreds of items, including early glass plate
-negatives, photographs, and manuscripts of her father and that shed more
-light on his life, the early days of Idaho, and Craters of the Moon.
-Some of these photographs served as blueprints for the National Park
-Service in the rehabilitation of fragile spatter cone formations that
-have deteriorated over the years of heavy human traffic. The Limbert
-collection has been fully cataloged by Boise State University curators
-and has already proven to be a valuable resource to historians
-interested in Limbert and this fascinating part of Idaho. Preservation
-of the area owes much to Limbert’s imaginative advocacy in the true
-spirit of the West in its earlier days.
-
-Local legends, beginning in the late 1800s, held that this area
-resembled the surface of the moon, on which—it must now be remembered—no
-one had then walked! Geologist Harold T. Stearns first used the name
-Craters of the Moon when he suggested to the National Park Service, in
-1923, that a national monument be established here. Stearns found “the
-dark craters and the cold lava, nearly destitute of vegetation” similar
-to “the surface of the moon as seen through a telescope.” The name
-Craters of the Moon would stick after Limbert adopted it in _National
-Geographic Magazine_ in 1924. Later that year the name became official
-when the area was set aside by President Calvin Coolidge as a national
-monument under the Antiquities Act.
-
-Like some other areas in the National Park System, Craters of the Moon
-has lived to see the name that its early explorers affixed to it proved
-somewhat erroneous by subsequent events or findings. When Stearns and
-Limbert called this lava field Craters of the Moon, probably few persons
-other than science fiction buffs actually thought that human beings
-might one day walk on the moon and see firsthand what its surface is
-like. People have now walked on the moon, however, and we know that its
-surface does not, in fact, closely resemble this part of Idaho. Although
-there are some volcanic features on the surface of the moon, most of its
-craters were formed by the impact of meteorites colliding with the moon.
-
-Moonscape or not, early fur trappers avoided the lava flows along the
-base of the Pioneer Mountains at the north of today’s park. In doing so,
-they followed Indian trails such as one found by Limbert that “resembled
-a light streak winding through the lava. When the sun was directly
-overhead it could be seen to advantage, but at times was difficult to
-follow. Think of the years of travel,” Limbert marveled, “necessary to
-make that mark on rock!” At least one Indian trail was destined to
-become part of Goodale’s Cutoff, an alternative route on the Oregon
-Trail that pioneers in wagon trains used in the 1850s and 1860s. Many
-adjectives early used for this scene—weird, barren, exciting,
-awe-inspiring, monotonous, astonishing, curious, bleak, mysterious—still
-apply. It is not difficult today to see why pioneering folk intent on
-wresting a living from the land did not tackle this volcanic terrain.
-
-Geologists possessed the proper motivation to tackle it, however.
-Curiosity aroused by this lava field has led several generations of
-geologists, beginning with Israel C. Russell in 1901 and Harold T.
-Stearns in the 1920s, into a deeper understanding of its volcanic
-origins. With ever increasing penetration of its geological history, the
-apparent otherworldliness of Craters of the Moon has retreated—but not
-entirely. The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA)
-brought the second set of astronauts who would walk on the moon to this
-alien corner of the galaxy before their moonshot. Here they studied the
-volcanic rock and explored an unusual, harsh, and unforgiving
-environment before embarking on their own otherworldly adventure.
-
-Most types of volcanic features in the park can be seen quite readily by
-first stopping at the visitor center and then driving the Loop Road. Far
-more features can be seen if you also walk the interpretive trails at
-the stops along the Loop Road. Still more await those who invest the
-time required to come to feel the mysterious timelessness and raw
-natural force implicit in this expansive lava field. Many travelers are
-en route to Yellowstone National Park and spend only a couple of hours
-visiting Craters of the Moon. This is ironic because here you are on the
-geological track of Yellowstone. In fact, Craters of the Moon represents
-what Yellowstone’s landscape will resemble in the future, and both areas
-can supplement your insight into what happens when the Earth’s
-unimaginable inner forces erupt to its surface.
-
- [Illustration: _Silvery leaves of the buckwheat dot a cinder garden
- with such regular spacing they almost look planted. Such spacing
- results from the shortage of available surface water: Each plant
- controls with its roots the space surrounding it, discouraging
- competing plants. Rainwater and snowmelt penetrate volcanic cinders
- so readily that their moisture quickly drops beyond reach of most
- plants’ root systems. For a close-up view of a buckwheat, see page
- 36._]
-
-Although Idaho is famous for forests, rivers, and scenic mountain
-wilderness, its Snake River Plain region boasts little of these
-attributes. This plain arcs across southern Idaho from the Oregon border
-to the Yellowstone area at the Montana-Wyoming border. It marks the
-trail of the passage of the Earth’s crust over an unusual geologic heat
-source that now brings the Earth’s incendiary inner workings so close to
-its surface near Yellowstone. This heat source fuels Yellowstone’s
-bubbling, spewing, spouting geothermal wonders. Craters of the Moon
-therefore stands as a geologic prelude to Yellowstone, as its precursor
-and the ancestral stuff of its fiery secrets.
-
-When did all this volcanism at Craters of the Moon happen? Will it
-happen again? According to Mel Kuntz and other U.S. Geological Survey
-geologists who have conducted extensive field research at Craters of the
-Moon, the volcanic activity forming the Craters of the Moon lava field
-probably started _only_ 15,000 years ago. The last eruption in the
-volcanic cycle ended 2,000 years ago, about the time that Julius Caesar
-ruled the Roman Empire.
-
-Craters of the Moon is a dormant, but not extinct, volcanic area. Its
-sleeping volcanoes could become active again in the near future. The
-largest earthquake of the last quarter century in the contiguous United
-States shook Idaho’s tallest mountain, Borah Peak, just north of here in
-1983. When it did, some geologists wondered if it might initiate
-volcanic activity at Craters of the Moon. It did not. According to
-Kuntz, however, this is no reason not to expect another volcanic
-eruption here _soon_—probably “within the next 1,000 years.” Part Two of
-this handbook explores the still young and rapidly evolving
-understanding of the fascinating geologic story of Craters of the Moon.
-
-Today’s Craters of the Moon National Monument encompasses 83 square
-miles of the much larger Craters of the Moon lava field. Reaching
-southeastward from the Pioneer Mountains, the park boundary encloses a
-series of fissure vents, volcanic cones, and lava flows known as the
-Great Rift volcanic zone. This volcanic rift zone is a line of weakness
-in the Earth’s crust that can be traced for some 60 miles across the
-Snake River Plain. Recent volcanism marks much of its length. You can
-explore the Great Rift and some of its volcanic features via the park’s
-7-mile Loop Drive, as described in Part Three of this handbook. In the
-park’s northern part you will find spatter cones, cinder cones, lava
-flows, lava caves, and an unexpected variety of wildflowers, shrubs,
-trees, and wild animals. The much larger southern part of the park,
-designated by Congress in 1970 as the Craters of the Moon Wilderness
-Area, is a vast and largely untraveled region of stark volcanic features
-flanking the Great Rift. It offers a challenge to serious hikers and
-explorers—latter day Robert Limberts—who are prepared for rugged
-wilderness travel.
-
-Despite its seeming barrenness, Craters of the Moon is indeed home to a
-surprising diversity of plant and animal life. As Limbert noted in 1924:
-“In the West the term ‘Lava Beds of Idaho’ has always signified a region
-to be shunned by even the most venturesome travelers—a land supposedly
-barren of vegetation, destitute of water, devoid of animal life, and
-lacking in scenic interest.
-
-“In reality the region has slight resemblance to its imagined aspect.
-Its vegetation is mostly hidden in pockets, but when found consists of
-pines, cedars, junipers, and sagebrush: its water is hidden deep in
-tanks or holes at the bottom of large ‘blow-outs’ and is found only by
-following old Indian or mountain sheep trails or by watching the flight
-of birds as they drop into these places to quench their thirst. The
-animal life consists principally of migrant birds, rock rabbits,
-woodchucks, black and grizzly bears: its scenery is impressive in its
-grandeur.”
-
-Years of patient record-keeping by scientists have fit numbers to
-Limbert’s perceptive observations. The number of species identified
-includes more than 300 plants, 2,000 insects, 8 reptiles, 140 birds, 30
-mammals—and one amphibian, the western toad. We now call Limbert’s “rock
-rabbit” the pika. The grizzly is long gone here. With few exceptions,
-the park’s denizens live mostly under conditions of great environmental
-stress.
-
-Near constant winds, breeze-to-gale in strength, sweep across the park
-to rob moisture from all living things. Scant soils, low levels of
-precipitation, the inability of cinder cones to hold rainwater near the
-surface, and the heat of the summer sun—intensified by heat-absorbing
-black lavas—only aggravate such moisture theft. Cinder surfaces register
-summer soil temperatures of over 150°F and show a lack of plant cover.
-Plants cover generally less than 5 percent of the total surface of the
-cinder cones. A recent study found that when the area is looked at on a
-parkwide basis, most of the land is very sparsely vegetated (less than
-15 percent vegetative cover). On a scale of sand trap to putting green,
-this would approach the sand trap end of the scale.
-
- [Illustration: _Winter snow transforms these landscapes, smoothing
- out both contours and the jagged edges of lavas. Less lunar in
- appearance now, the park nonetheless maintains an otherworldly
- aura._]
-
- [Illustration: _The park was named in 1924, 45 years before humans
- walked on the Moon. Although we now know more about the Moon’s
- actual surface, the park’s name still rings true. Only a few trees
- immediately suggest that the large photo was taken on Earth. In the
- inset photo, astronaut Edwin E. “Buzz” Aldrin walks on the Moon near
- the lunar module._]
-
-Into this difficult environment wildlife researcher Brad Griffith
-ventured to count, mark, and scrutinize the mule deer of Craters of the
-Moon in May 1980. Griffith, of the University of Idaho, conducted a
-three-year study of the park’s mule deer population because the National
-Park Service was concerned that this protected and productive herd might
-multiply so much that it would eventually damage its habitat. Among
-other things, he would find that the herd has developed a drought
-evasion strategy that makes it behave unlike any mule deer population
-known anywhere else.
-
-“By late summer,” Griffith explains, “plants have matured and dried so
-that they no longer provide adequate moisture to sustain the deer in
-this landscape that offers them no free water. Following about 12 days
-of warm nights and hot days in late July, the deer migrate from 5 to 10
-miles north to the Pioneer Mountains. There they find free-flowing
-creeks and the cool, moist shade of aspen and Douglas-fir groves and
-wait out summer’s worst heat and dryness. Early fall rains trigger the
-deer’s return to the park’s wilderness from this oasis in late September
-to feed on the nutritious bitterbrush until November snowfalls usher
-them back to their winter range.”
-
-The pristine and high-quality forage of the Craters of the Moon
-Wilderness Area, historically nearly untouched by domestic livestock
-grazing, has inspired this migratory strategy for evading drought. In
-effect, the mule deer make use of a dual summer range, a behavioral
-modification unknown elsewhere for their species.
-
-“Their late summer and fall adaptations simply complete the mule deer’s
-yearlong strategy for coping with the limits that this volcanic
-landscape imposes on them,” Griffith explains.
-
-Taking a walk in the park on a mid-summer afternoon gives you a good
-opportunity to experience the influence of wind, heat, and lack of
-moisture. The park’s winds are particularly striking. The lava that has
-flowed out of the Great Rift has built up and raised the land surface in
-the park to a higher elevation than its surroundings so that it
-intercepts the prevailing southwesterly winds. Afternoon winds usually
-die down in the evening. As part of the dynamics of temperature and
-moisture that determine mule deer behavior, this daily wind cycle helps
-explain why they are more active at night than are mule deer elsewhere.
-These deer do not move around as much as mule deer in less ecologically
-trying areas. They have adapted behaviors to conserve energy and
-moisture in this environmentally stressful landscape.
-
-Early mornings may find park rangers climbing up a cinder cone to count
-the deer, continuing the collection of data that Brad Griffith set in
-motion with his three-year study. The rangers still conduct spring and
-late summer censuses: over a recent three-year period the deer
-populations averaged about 420 animals. Another several years of
-collecting will give the National Park Service a body of data on the
-mule deer that is available nowhere else.
-
-The uniqueness of this data about the park’s mule deer population would
-surely please the booster aspect of Robert Limbert’s personality.
-Likewise, the research challenges involved in obtaining it would appeal
-to his explorer self. History has justified Limbert on both counts.
-Publicity arising from his explorations led to creation of the national
-monument. Furthermore, that publicity put forth a rather heady claim
-that history has also unequivocally borne out: “Although almost totally
-unknown at present,” Limbert prophesied in 1924, “this section is
-destined some day to attract tourists from all America....”
-
-Every year tens of thousands of travelers fulfill Robert Limbert’s
-prophecy of more than a half-century ago.
-
-
-
-
- Part 2
- From Moonscape to Landscape
-
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- [Illustration: _What last happened here about 2,000 years ago looked
- much like this photograph of a volcanic eruption in Hawaii.
- Bubbling, pooling, and flowing lava blanketed the landscape as
- molten materials poured or gushed out of the Earth. Most volcanic
- phenomena preserved at Craters of the Moon have been seen in action
- in Hawaii._]
-
-
-
-
- Geology of the Craters of the Moon
-
-
-A 400-mile-long arc known as the Snake River Plain cuts a swath from 30
-to 125 miles wide across southern Idaho. Idaho’s official state highway
-map, which depicts mountains with shades of green, shows this arc as
-white because there is comparatively little variation here compared to
-most of the state. Upon this plain, immense amounts of lava from within
-the Earth have been deposited by volcanic activity dating back more than
-14 million years. However, some of these lavas, notably those at Craters
-of the Moon National Monument, emerged from the Earth as recently as
-2,000 years ago. Craters of the Moon contains some of the best examples
-of basaltic volcanism in the world. To understand what happened here,
-you must understand the Snake River Plain.
-
-Basaltic and Rhyolitic Lavas. The lavas deposited on the Snake River
-Plain were mainly of two types classified as basaltic and rhyolitic.
-Magma, the molten rock material beneath the surface of the Earth, issues
-from a volcano as lava. The composition of this fluid rock material
-varies. Basaltic lavas are composed of magma originating at the boundary
-of the Earth’s mantle and its crustal layer. Rhyolitic lavas originate
-from crustal material. To explain its past, geologists now divide the
-Snake River Plain into eastern and western units. The following geologic
-story relates to the eastern Snake River Plain, on which Craters of the
-Moon lies.
-
-On the eastern Snake River Plain, basaltic and rhyolitic lavas formed in
-two different stages of volcanic activity. Younger basaltic lavas mostly
-lie atop older rhyolitic lavas. This portion of the plain runs from
-north of Twin Falls eastward to the Yellowstone area on the
-Wyoming-Montana border. Drilling to depths of almost 2 miles near the
-plain’s midline, geologists found ½ mile of basaltic lava flows lying
-atop more than 1½ miles of rhyolitic lava flows. How much deeper the
-rhyolitic lavas may extend is not known. No one has drilled deeper here.
-
- [Illustration: _Crossing Idaho in an arc, the Snake River Plain
- marks the path of the Earth’s crustal plate as it migrates over a
- heat source unusually close to the surface. It is believed that the
- heat source fueling Yellowstone’s thermal features today is
- essentially the same one that produced volcanic episodes at Craters
- of the Moon ending about 2,000 years ago._]
-
-This combination—a thinner layer of younger basaltic lavas lying atop an
-older and thicker layer of rhyolitic lavas—is typical of volcanic
-activity associated with an unusual heat phenomenon inside the Earth
-that some geologists have described as a mantle plume. The mantle plume
-theory was developed in the early 1970s as an explanation for the
-creation of the Hawaiian Islands. According to the theory, uneven
-heating within the Earth’s core allows some material in the overlying
-mantle to become slightly hotter than surrounding material. As its
-temperature increases, its density decreases. Thus it becomes relatively
-buoyant and rises through the cooler materials—like a tennis ball
-released underwater—toward the Earth’s crust. When this molten material
-reaches the crust it eventually melts and pushes itself through the
-crust and it erupts onto the Earth’s surface as molten lava.
-
-The Earth’s crust is made up of numerous plates that float upon an
-underlying mantle layer. Therefore, over time, the presence of an
-unusual heat source created by a mantle plume will be expressed at the
-Earth’s surface—floating in a constant direction above it—as a line of
-volcanic eruptions. The Snake River Plain records the progress of the
-North American crustal plate—350 miles in 15 million years—over a heat
-source now located below Yellowstone. The Hawaiian chain of islands
-marks a similar line. Because the mechanisms that cause this geologic
-action are not well understood, many geologists refer to this simply as
-a heat source rather than a mantle plume.
-
-Two Stages of Volcanism. As described above, volcanic eruptions
-associated with this heat source occur in two stages, rhyolitic and
-basaltic. As the upwelling magma from the mantle collects in a chamber
-as it enters the Earth’s lower crust, its heat begins to melt the
-surrounding crustal rock. Since this rock contains a large amount of
-silica, it forms a thick and pasty rhyolitic magma. Rhyolitic magma is
-lighter than the overlying crustal rocks, therefore, it begins to rise
-and form a second magma chamber very close to the Earth’s surface. As
-more and more of this gas-charged rhyolitic magma collects in this upper
-crustal chamber, the gas pressure builds to a point at which the magma
-explodes through the Earth’s crust.
-
-Explosive Rhyolitic Volcanism. Rhyolitic explosions tend to be
-devastating. When the gas-charged molten material reaches the surface of
-the Earth, the gas expands rapidly, perhaps as much as 25 to 75 times by
-volume. The reaction is similar to the bubbles that form in a bottle of
-soda pop that has been shaken. You can shake the container and the
-pressure-bottled liquid will retain its volume as long as the cap is
-tightly sealed. Release the pressure by removing the bottle cap,
-however, and the soft drink will spray all over the room and occupy a
-volume of space far larger than the bottle from which it issued. This
-initial vast spray is then followed by a foaming action as the less
-gas-charged liquid now bubbles out of the bottle.
-
-Collectively, the numerous rhyolitic explosions that occurred on the
-Snake River Plain ejected hundreds of cubic miles of material into the
-atmosphere and onto the Earth’s surface. In contrast, the eruption of
-Mount Saint Helens in 1980, which killed 65 people and devastated 150
-square miles of forest, produced less than 1 cubic mile of ejected
-material. So much material was ejected in the massive rhyolitic
-explosions in the Snake River Plain that the Earth’s surface collapsed
-to form huge depressions known as calderas. (Like _caldron_, whose root
-meaning it shares, this name implies both bowl-shaped and warmed.) Most
-evidence of these gigantic explosive volcanoes in the Snake River Plain
-has been covered by subsequent flows of basaltic lava. However, traces
-of rhyolitic eruptions are found along the margins of the plain and in
-the Yellowstone area.
-
-Quiet Outpourings of Basaltic Lava. As this area of the Earth’s crust
-passed over and then beyond the sub-surface heat source, the explosive
-volcanism of the rhyolitic stage ceased. The heat contained in the
-Earth’s upper mantle and crust, however, remained and continued to
-produce upwelling magma. This was basaltic magma that, because it
-contained less silica than rhyolite, was very fluid.
-
-The basalt, like the rhyolite, collected in isolated magma chambers
-within the crust until pressures built up to force it to the surface
-through various cracks and fissures. These weak spots in the Earth’s
-crust were the results of earlier geologic activity, expansion of the
-magma chamber, or the formation of a rift zone.
-
- [Illustration: _Microscopic cross section of basaltic rock._]
-
- [Illustration: _Microscopic cross section of rhyolitic rock. Cross
- sections show vastly different textures. Rhyolitic magma contains
- more silica; it is very thick and does not allow trapped gas to
- escape easily. Its volcanic eruptions blast large craters in the
- Earth’s crust. Basaltic magma is more fluid and allows gas to escape
- readily. It erupts more gently. Here in the eastern Snake River
- Plain, basaltic lava flows almost completely cover earlier rhyolitic
- deposits._]
-
-(_continued on page 28_)
-
-
- Identifying the Lava Flows
-
- At Craters of the Moon the black rocks are lava flows. The surface
- lava rocks, basaltic in composition, formed from magma originating
- deep in the Earth. They are named for their appearances: Pahoehoe
- (pronounced “pah-hoy-hoy” and meaning “ropey”), Aa (pronounced “ah-ah”
- and meaning “rough”), or Blocky. Geologists have seen how these flows
- behave in modern volcanic episodes in Hawaii and elsewhere.
-
- [Illustration: _Pahoehoe lava_]
-
- Pahoehoe More than half the park is covered by pahoehoe lava flows.
- Rivers of molten rock, they harden quickly to a relatively smooth
- surface, billowly, hummocky, or flat. Other pahoehoe formations
- resemble coiled, heavy rope or ice jams.
-
- [Illustration: _Aa lava_]
-
- Aa Aa flows are far more rugged than pahoehoe flows. Most occur when a
- pahoehoe flow cools, thickens, and then turns into aa. Often
- impassable to those traveling afoot, aa flows quickly chew up hiking
- boots. Blocky lava is a variety of aa lava whose relatively large
- silica content makes it thick and often dense, glassy, and smooth.
-
- [Illustration: _Blocky lava_]
-
- Bombs Lava pieces blown out of craters may solidify in flight. They
- are classed by shape: spindle, ribbon, and breadcrust. Bombs range
- from ½ inch to more than 3 feet long.
-
- Tree Molds When molten lava advances on a living forest, resulting
- tree molds may record impressions of charred surfaces of trees in the
- lava.
-
- [Illustration: _Blue Dragon Flows lava_]
-
- [Illustration: _Breadcrust bomb_]
-
- [Illustration: _Spindle bomb_]
-
- [Illustration: _Wood-like lava_]
-
- [Illustration: _Tree mold_]
-
- [Illustration: _Lava river_]
-
- [Illustration: _Mt. St. Helens erupts in 1980. Because the lava
- contained a large amount of silica, its explosive eruption contrasts
- sharply with recent basaltic flows in volcanic activity in Hawaii._]
-
- [Illustration: Basaltic flows in Hawaii.]
-
-Upon reaching the surface, the gases contained within the lava easily
-escaped and produced rather mild eruptions. Instead of exploding into
-the air like earlier rhyolitic activity, the more fluid basaltic lava
-flooded out onto the surrounding landscape. These flows were fairly
-extensive and often covered many square miles. After millions of years,
-most of the older rhyolitic deposits have been covered by these basaltic
-lava flows.
-
-The Great Rift and Craters of the Moon. Craters of the Moon National
-Monument lies along a volcanic rift zone. Rift zones occur where the
-Earth’s crust is being pulled in opposite directions. Geologists believe
-that the interactions of the Earth’s crustal plates in the vicinity of
-the Snake River Plain have stretched, thinned, and weakened the Earth’s
-crust so that cracks have formed both on and below the surface here.
-Magma under pressure can follow these cracks and fissures to the
-surface. While there are many volcanic rift zones throughout the Snake
-River Plain, the most extensive is the Great Rift that runs through
-Craters of the Moon. The Great Rift is approximately 60 miles long and
-it ranges in width from 1½ to 5 miles. It is marked by short cracks—less
-than 1 mile in length—and the alignment of more than 25 volcanic cinder
-cones. It is the site of origin for more than 60 different lava flows
-that make up the Craters of the Moon Lava Field.
-
-Eight Major Eruptive Periods. Most of the lavas exposed at Craters of
-the Moon formed between 2,000 and 15,000 years ago in basaltic eruptions
-that comprise the second stage of volcanism associated with the mantle
-plume theory. These eight eruptive periods each lasted about 1,000 years
-or less and were separated by periods of relative calm that lasted for a
-few hundred to more than 2,000 years. These sequences of eruptions and
-calm periods are caused by the alternating build up and release of
-magmatic pressure inside the Earth. Once an eruption releases this
-pressure, time is required for it to build up again.
-
-Eruptions have been dated by two methods: paleomagnetic and radiocarbon
-dating. Paleomagnetic dating compares the alignment of magnetic minerals
-within the rock of flows with past orientations of the Earth’s magnetic
-fields. Radiocarbon dating makes use of radioactive carbon-14 in
-charcoal created from vegetation that is overrun by lava flows. Dates
-obtained by both methods are considered to be accurate to within about
-100 years.
-
-A Typical Eruption at Craters of the Moon. Research at the monument and
-observations of similar eruptions in Hawaii and Iceland suggest the
-following scenario for a typical eruption at Craters of the Moon.
-Various forces combine to cause a section of the Great Rift to pull
-apart. When the forces that tend to pull the Earth’s crust apart are
-combined with the forces created as magma accumulates, the crust becomes
-weakened and cracks form. As the magma rises buoyantly within these
-cracks, the pressure exerted on it is reduced and the gases within the
-magma begin to expand. As gas continues to expand, the magma becomes
-frothy.
-
-At first the lava is very fluid and charged with gas. Eruptions begin as
-a long line of fountains that reach heights of 1,000 feet or less and
-are up to a mile in length. This “curtain of fire eruption” mainly
-produces cinders and frothy, fluid lava. After hours or days, the
-expansion of gases decreases and eruptions become less violent. Segments
-of the fissure seal off and eruptions become smaller and more localized.
-Cinders thrown up in the air now build piles around individual vents and
-form cinder cones.
-
-With further reductions in the gas content of the magma, the volcanic
-activity again changes. Huge outpourings of lava are pumped out of the
-various fissures or the vents of cinder cones and form lava flows. Lava
-flows may form over periods of months or possibly a few years. Long-term
-eruptions of lava flows from a single vent become the source of most of
-the material produced during a sustained eruption. As gas pressure falls
-and magma is depleted, flows subside. Finally, all activity stops.
-
-When Will the Next Eruption Occur? Craters of the Moon is not an extinct
-volcanic area. It is merely in a dormant stage of its eruptive sequence.
-By dating the lava flow, geologists have shown that the volcanic
-activity along the Great Rift has been persistent over the last 15,000
-years, occurring approximately every 2,000 years. Because the last
-eruptions took place about 2,000 years ago, geologists believe that
-eruptions are due here again—probably within the next 1,000 years.
-
- [Illustration: _From the air the Great Rift looks like an
- irregularly dashed line punctuated by tell-tale cones and craters._]
-
- [Illustration: _Chainlike, the Hawaiian group of islands traces the
- migration of Earth’s crustal plate over an unusual undersea heat
- source. The Hawaiian chain of islands and the Snake River Plain map
- similar happenings._]
-
-(_continued on page 34_)
-
-
- Indian Tunnel
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- Indian Tunnel looks like a cave, but it is a lava tube. When a
- pahoehoe lava flow is exposed to the air, its surface begins to cool
- and harden. A crust or skin develops. As the flow moves away from its
- source, the crust thickens and forms an insulating barrier between
- cool air and molten material in the flow’s interior. A rigid roof now
- exists over the stream of lava whose molten core moves forward at a
- steady pace. As the flow of lava from the source vent is depleted, the
- level of lava within the molten core gradually begins to drop. The
- flowing interior then pulls away from the hardening roof above and
- slowly drains away and out. The roof and last remnants of the lava
- river inside it cool and harden, leaving a tube.
-
- [Illustration: _Lava tube_]
-
- [Illustration: _Great horned owl_]
-
- Many lava tubes make up the Indian Tunnel Lava Tube System. These
- tubes formed during the same eruption within a single lava flow whose
- source was a fissure or crack in the Big Craters/Spatter Cones area. A
- tremendous amount of lava was pumped out here, forming the Blue Dragon
- Flows. (Hundreds of tiny crystals on its surface produce the color
- blue when light strikes them.) Lava forced through the roof of the
- tube system formed huge ponds whose surfaces cooled and began to
- harden. Later these ponds collapsed as lava drained back into the lava
- tubes. Big Sink is the largest of these collapses. Blue Dragon Flows
- cover an area of more than 100 square miles. Hidden beneath are miles
- of lava tubes, but collapsed roof sections called skylights provide
- entry to only a small part of the system. Only time, with the collapse
- of more roofs, will reveal the total extent of the system.
-
- [Illustration: _Icicles (ice stalactites)_]
-
- [Illustration: _Lava stalactites_]
-
- Stalactites Dripped from hot ceilings, lava forms stalactites that
- hang from above. Mineral deposits Sulfate compounds formed on many
- lava tube ceilings from volcanic gases or by evaporation of matter
- leached from rocks above. Ice In spring, ice stalactites form on cave
- ceilings and walls. Ice stalagmites form on the cave floor. Summer
- heat destroys these features. Wildlife Lava tube beetles, bushy-tailed
- woodrats (packrats), and bats live in some dark caves. Violet-green
- swallows, great horned owls, and ravens may use wall cracks and
- shelves of well-lit caves for nesting sites.
-
-
- Cinder Cones and Spatter Cones
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- [Illustration: _Cinder cone_]
-
- [Illustration: _Spatter cone_]
-
- Cinder Cones When volcanic eruptions of fairly moderate strength throw
- cinders into the air, cinder cones may be built up. These cone-shaped
- hills are usually truncated, looking as though their tops were sliced
- off. Usually, a bowl- or funnel-shaped crater will form inside the
- cone. Cinders, which cooled rapidly while falling through the air, are
- highly porous with gas vesicles, like bubbles. Cinder cones hundreds
- of feet high may be built in a few days. Big Cinder Butte is a cinder
- cone. At 700 feet high it is the tallest cone in the park. The shape
- develops because the largest fragments, and in fact most of the
- fragments, fall closest to the vent. The angle of slope is usually
- about 30 degrees. Some cinder cones, such as North Crater, the
- Watchman, and Sheep Trail Butte, were built by more than one eruptive
- episode. Younger lava was added to them as a vent was rejuvenated. If
- strong winds prevailed during a cinder cone’s formation, the cone may
- be elongated—in the direction the wind was blowing—rather than
- circular. Grassy, Paisley, Sunset, and Inferno Cones are elongated to
- the east because the dominant winds in this area come from the west.
- The northernmost section of the Great Rift contains the most cinder
- cones for three reasons: 1. There were more eruptions at that end of
- the rift. 2. The lavas erupted there were thicker, resulting in more
- explosive eruptions. (They are more viscous because they contain more
- silica.) 3. Large amounts of groundwater may have been present at the
- northern boundary of the lavas and when it came in contact with magma
- it generated huge amounts of steam. All of these conditions lead to
- more extensive and more explosive eruptions that tend to create cinder
- cones rather than lava flows.
-
- Spatter Cones When most of its gas content has dissipated, lava
- becomes less frothy and more tacky. Then it is tossed out of the vent
- as globs or clots of lava paste called spatter. The clots partially
- weld together to build up spatter cones. Spatter cones are typically
- much smaller than cinder cones, but they may have steeper sides. The
- Spatter Cones area of the park (Stop 5 on the map of the Loop Drive)
- contains one of the most perfect spatter-cone chains in the world.
- These cones are all less than 50 feet high and less than 100 feet in
- diameter.
-
- [Illustration: _Lichens often pioneer new life on Earth. Two plants
- in one, lichens are composed of an alga and a fungus growing
- together to their mutual benefit, usually on rock. Hardy and
- slow-growing, lichens help break down rock to soil-building mineral
- matter._
-
- _Eventually their vegetable matter decays, helping to form the first
- soils that other plants can then use. Tough in the extreme, some
- lichens can be heated to high temperatures and still be capable of
- resuming normal growth when returned to viable conditions._]
-
-
-
-
- Life Adapts to a Volcanic Landscape
-
-
-Two thousand years after volcanic eruptions subsided, plants and animals
-still struggle to gain toeholds on this unforgiving lava field. Much of
-the world’s vegetation could not survive here at all. Environmental
-stresses created by scant soil and minimal moisture are compounded by
-highly porous cinders that are incapable of holding water near the
-ground surface where plants and other organisms can make ready use of
-it. Scarce at best—total average precipitation is between 15 to 20
-inches per year—rainwater and snowmelt quickly slip down out of reach of
-the plants growing on cinder cones. Summer’s hot, dry winds rob moisture
-from all living things exposed to them. Whisking across leaves and
-needles the winds carry away moisture precious to plant tissues. On the
-side of a cinder cone, summer day temperatures at ground level can be
-more than 150°F.
-
-The secret to survival here is adaptation. Most life forms cope by
-strategies of either resisting or evading the extremes of this semi-arid
-climate. To resist being robbed of moisture by winds and heat, a plant
-may feature very small leaves that minimize moisture loss. To evade
-heat, wind, and aridity, another plant may grow inside a crevice that
-provides life-giving shade and collects precious moisture and soil
-particles. Another plant may spend about 95 percent of the year dormant.
-It may rush through the germination, sprouting, leafing out, blooming,
-and fruiting stages and return to the dormancy of its seed stage in just
-two weeks. The dwarf buckwheat has adapted to life on porous cinders by
-evolving a root system that may spread out for up to 3 feet to support
-its aboveground part, which is a mere 4 inches high. This buckwheat only
-looks like a dwarf because you can not see its roots.
-
- (_continued on page 40_)
-
-
- Plants Adapt to a Volcanic Landscape
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- Water is the limiting factor in plant growth and reproduction both on
- the lava fields of Craters of the Moon and on the surrounding
- sagebrush steppe. Plants have developed a combination of adaptations
- to cope with drought conditions. There are three major strategies:
-
- 1. Drought tolerance Physiological adaptations leading to drought
- tolerance are typical of desert plant species. The tissues of some
- plants can withstand extreme dehydration without suffering permanent
- cell damage. Some plants can extract water from very dry soils.
- Sagebrush and antelope bitterbrush exemplify drought tolerance.
-
- [Illustration: _Dwarf monkeyflower_]
-
- [Illustration: _Buckwheat_]
-
- 2. Drought avoidance Certain structural modifications can enable
- plants to retain or conserve water. Common adaptations of this type
- include small leaves, hairiness, and succulence. The small leaves of
- the antelope bitterbrush expose less area to evaporative influences
- such as heat and wind. Hairs on the scorpionweed reduce surface
- evaporation by inhibiting air flow and reflecting sunlight. Succulent
- plants such as pricklypear cactus have tissues that can store water
- for use during drought periods. Other plants, such as wire lettuce,
- avoid drought by having very little leaf surface compared to their
- overall volume.
-
- 3. Drought escape Some plants, such as mosses and ferns, escape
- drought by growing near persistent water supplies such as natural
- potholes and seeps from ice caves. Many other drought escapers, such
- as dwarf monkeyflower, simply carry out their full life cycle during
- the moist time of the year. The rest of the year they survive in seed
- form.
-
- [Illustration: _Pricklypear cactus_]
-
- [Illustration: _Ferns_]
-
-
- Plant Microhabitats
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- Lava flows Most plants cannot grow on lava flows until enough soil has
- accumulated to support them. The park’s older volcanic landscapes,
- where soils are best developed, are clothed with sagebrush-grassland
- vegetation. On younger lava flows, bits of soil first accumulate in
- cracks, joints, and crevices. It is in these microhabitats that
- vascular plants may gain footholds. Narrow cracks and joints may
- contain desert parsley and lava phlox. Shallow crevices will hold
- scabland penstemon, fernleaf fleabane, and gland cinquefoil. Deep
- crevices can support the syringa, various ferns, bush rockspirea,
- tansybush, and even limber pine. Not until full soil cover is achieved
- can the antelope bitterbrush, rubber rabbitbrush, and sagebrush find
- suitable niches. On lava flows soils first form from eroded lava and
- the slow decomposition of lichens and other plants able to colonize
- bare rock. These soils can be supplemented by wind-blown soil
- particles until vascular plants gain footholds. As plants begin to
- grow and then die, their gradual decomposition adds further soil
- matter. These soil beginnings accumulate in cracks and crevices, which
- also provide critical shade and wind protection. Deep crevices provide
- lower temperatures favoring plant survival.
-
- [Illustration: _Rubber rabbitbrush_]
-
- [Illustration: _Syringa_]
-
- Cinder gardens Compared to the lava flows, cinder cones are much more
- quickly invaded by plants. Here, too, however, volcanic origins
- influence plant growth. Compared to the relatively level lava flows,
- steeply sloping cinder cones introduce a new factor that controls the
- development of plant communities: topography. Here you find marked
- differences in the plant communities between the north- and
- south-facing slopes. South-facing slopes are exposed to prolonged,
- intense sunlight, resulting in high evaporation of water. Because of
- the prevailing winds, snow accumulates on northeast sides of cones,
- giving them far more annual water than southwest-facing sides receive.
- The pioneering herbs that first colonize cinder cones will persist on
- southwest-facing slopes long after succeeding plant communities have
- come to dominate north-facing slopes. It is on these north-facing
- slopes that limber pine first develops in the cinder garden.
- South-facing slopes may never support the limber pine but may be
- dominated by shrubs. Unweathered cinder particles range in size from 3
- to 4 inches in diameter down to very small particles. They average
- about ¼ inch in diameter.
-
- [Illustration: _Cinquefoil_]
-
- [Illustration: _Wire lettuce_]
-
-Ecological conditions at Craters of the Moon are generally so harsh that
-slight changes can make the difference for the survival of a plant or
-other organism. Life thrives in many rock crevices that are surrounded
-by barren exposed lava rock of the same physical composition. These
-microhabitats provide the critical shade and increased soil and moisture
-content required for plant survival. Over the years, particles of soil
-will naturally collect in rock crevices, which also have the effect of
-funneling precipitation into their depths. Their shade further protects
-these pockets of soil and water from wind erosion, excessive heat, and
-evaporation and leaching by direct sunlight.
-
- [Illustration: _Limber pines are the tree pioneers of the lava
- terrain. Their seedlings often find suitable conditions for
- germination in rock crevices long before surrounding landscapes
- support tree growth. Most common of all the park’s trees, limber
- pine is named for its flexible branches. Many park animals depend on
- this tree in some fashion for their livelihoods._]
-
- [Illustration: _Limber pine cones stay green and resinous through
- their first year of development and then turn brown and woody as
- their seeds mature in the second year. Cones grow to about 4 inches
- long._]
-
-At Craters of the Moon, crevices are of such importance to plants that
-botanists differentiate between narrow, shallow, and deep crevices when
-studying this phenomenon. Narrow crevices will support dwarf goldenweed
-or hairy goldaster. Shallow crevices support scabland penstemon,
-fernleaf fleabane, and gland cinquefoil. Deep crevices give rise to
-syringa, ferns, bush rockspirea, tansybush, Lewis mockorange, and even
-the limber pine tree. Complete soil cover and then vegetative cover can
-develop on these lava flows only after crevices have first become filled
-with soil.
-
-Plants exploit other means of protection to survive in this harsh
-environment. Shaded and wind-sheltered, the northern side of a cinder
-cone can support grass, shrubs, and limber pine trees while the cone’s
-southern face supports only scattered herbs. Most cinder cones in the
-park show distinct differences of plant cover between their northern and
-southern exposures. Northern exposures are cooler and more moist than
-southern exposures, which receive far more direct sunlight. In addition,
-here at Craters of the Moon, the prevailing southwesterly winds compound
-the ability of the dry heat to rob porous cinder cone surfaces and their
-living organisms of precious moisture.
-
-The build-up of successive lava flows has so raised the landscape that
-it now intercepts wind currents that operate higher above surrounding
-plains. Limber pine trees find footholds on the shaded and sheltered
-northern exposures of cinder cones. Bitterbrush and rabbitbrush shrubs
-that can barely survive on the lower skirts of a cinder cone’s southern
-side may grow two-thirds of the way up its protected northern face. For
-many species of plants the limits of habitability on this volcanic
-landscape are narrowly defined. Very small variations in their
-situations can determine success or failure.
-
-Travelers often ask park rangers whether or not some of the park’s
-plants were planted by people. The plants in question are dwarf
-buckwheats and grow in cinder gardens. It is their incredibly even
-spacing that creates an orderliness that is easy to mistake for human
-design. The regular spacing comes about because of the competition for
-moisture, however. The root systems of these plants exploit the
-available water from an area of ground surface much larger than the
-spread of their foliage. In this way, mature plants can fend off
-competition by using the moisture that would be required for a
-potentially encroaching plant to become established. The effect is an
-even spacing that makes it appear, indeed, as though someone had set out
-the plants on measured centers.
-
-Craters of the Moon abounds with these surprising plant microhabitats
-that delight explorers on foot. The bleak lava flows separate these
-emerging pockets of new life, isolating them like islands or oases
-within their barren volcanic surroundings.
-
-Scientists have studied Carey Kipuka, an island of plantlife in the most
-southern part of the park, to find out what changes have occurred in the
-biologic community. _Kipuka_ is a Hawaiian name given to an area of
-older land that is surrounded by younger lava flows. Recent lava flows
-did not overrun Carey Kipuka, so its plant cover is unaltered. Shortage
-of water protected it from livestock grazing that might have changed its
-character. Its vegetation is a benchmark for comparing plant cover
-changes on similar sites throughout southern Idaho.
-
-For the National Park Service and other managers of wildlands,
-kipukas—representing isolated and pristine plant habitat unchanged by
-human influence—provide the best answer that we have to the important
-question, “What is natural?” Armed with a satisfactory answer to that
-question, it is possible to manage the land ecologically. Park managers
-can seek to restore natural systems and to allow them to be as
-self-regulating as possible. It is ironic that Craters of the Moon, a
-volcanic landscape subjected to profound change, should also protect
-this informative glimpse of what remains unchanged.
-
- [Illustration: _From the park’s mazes of jumbled rock, ground
- squirrels fashion homes with many entrances and exits. Opportunistic
- feeders on vegetable matter, these engaging rodents fall prey to
- hawks and owls from above and small predatory mammals on the ground.
- They therefore serve as an important transfer point between plant
- and animal layers of the park’s food energy scheme._]
-
- [Illustration: _In the 1920s, members of the Limbert Expedition,
- described on pages 50 and 51, followed the flight of doves to locate
- water as they explored what later became the park._]
-
-(_continued on page 46_)
-
-
- Wildflowers
-
- Wildflowers carpet Craters of the Moon’s seemingly barren lava fields
- from early May to late September. The most spectacular shows of
- wildflowers come with periods of precipitation. In late spring,
- moisture from snowmelt—supplemented now and then by rainfall—sees the
- blossoming of most of the delicate annual plants.
-
- Many of the park’s flowering plants, having no mechanisms for
- conserving moisture, simply complete their life cycles before the
- middle of summer. This is particularly true of those that grow on the
- porous cinder gardens into which moisture quickly descends beyond
- reach of most plants’ root systems.
-
- As summer continues and supplies of moisture slowly dwindle, only the
- most drought-resistant of flowering plants continue to grow and to
- bloom. With the onset of autumn rains, only the tiny yellow blossoms
- of the sagebrush and rabbitbrush remain.
-
- [Illustration: _Blazing star_]
-
- [Illustration: _Monkeyflower_]
-
- [Illustration: _Desert parsley_]
-
- [Illustration: _Wild onion_]
-
- [Illustration: _Bitterroot_]
-
- [Illustration: _Paintbrush_]
-
- [Illustration: _Scabland penstemon_]
-
- [Illustration: _Arrow-leaved balsamroot_]
-
- [Illustration: _Scorpionweed_]
-
-
- Mule Deer
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- Brad Griffith could be called the mule deer man. In 1980, this
- wildlife researcher began a three-year study of the mule deer herd
- that summers in the park. The immediate concern was that the deer,
- protected inside the park, might be overpopulating their range and
- endangering their habitat. Griffith set out to find out just how the
- deer use the area, what their population level is, and how certain
- factors—production, mortality, and distribution—affect their
- population dynamics. The mule deer use the park April through November
- only, because winter brings snows too deep for the deer to find food
- here. The most striking finding of Griffith’s research is that the
- mule deer at Craters of the Moon—unlike mule deer studied
- elsewhere—have a dual summer range. Put simply, the mule deer have had
- to undergo behavior modification to live here. The deer move back into
- the southern park in mid-April, living in the protected wilderness
- area there. While in the wilderness area, the park’s deer routinely
- live up to nearly 10 miles from open water, getting their water from
- food, dew, fog, and temporary puddles. This area has higher quality
- forage for these deer than any other part of their annual range. The
- trade-off is that the wilderness area has almost no open water. When
- the moisture content of their forage decreases in summer, usually in
- July, the deer move up to the northern part of the park where there is
- open water. Their habits in the northern part of the park are unusual,
- too, Griffith says, because there the deer live in much closer
- quarters than other herds are known to tolerate on summer ranges. They
- live in this wildlife equivalent of an apartment complex until the
- fall rains come. Then they move back down to the wilderness area. The
- deer make this unusual summer migration, Griffith suggests, to avail
- themselves of the high quality forage in the southern park. “The park
- serves as an island of high quality habitat for mule deer,” he wrote
- in his report. It is now known the deer will leave the wilderness area
- for the northern park after 12 days with daytime highs above 80°F and
- nighttime lows above 50°F in summer. “We can’t really predict this,”
- Park Ranger Neil King says, “but the deer know when this is.” What is
- happening is that the percentage of water in their forage plants falls
- below what is necessary to sustain the deer with increasingly hot
- weather. As you would expect, does nursing two fawns leave a couple
- days earlier than does with only one fawn. The rate at which their
- fawns survive to the fall of the year is astonishing. “This is an
- incredibly productive herd,” Griffith says, “right up there with the
- highest fawn survival rate of any western mule deer herd.” Park
- rangers continue Griffith’s studies by taking deer census counts.
-
- [Illustration: {Map showing fall, summer, and spring migrations}]
-
- [Illustration: _The Northern Shoshone regularly passed through the
- Craters of the Moon area on their annual summer migration from the
- Snake River to the Camas Prairie, west of the park. They took this
- journey to get out of the hot desert and into the cooler mountains.
- There they could gather root crops and hunt marmots, jackrabbits,
- porcupines, and ground squirrels. As they passed through today’s
- park, they left behind arrowheads, choppers, and scrapers and built
- stone circles that may have been used for ceremonial purposes. These
- artifacts and structures are evidence the Indians were temporary
- visitors to this vast volcanic landscape._]
-
-
-
-
- Indians, Early Explorers And Practicing Astronauts
-
-
-Not surprisingly, archeologists have concluded that Indians did not make
-their homes on this immense lava field. Astronauts would one day trek
-about Craters of the Moon in hopes that experiencing its harshly alien
-environment would make walking on the moon less disorienting for them.
-No wonder people have not chosen to live on these hot, black, sometimes
-sharp lava flows on which you must line the flight of doves to locate
-drinking water.
-
-Indians did traverse this area on annual summer migrations, however, as
-shown by the developed trails and many sites where artifacts of Northern
-Shoshone culture have been found. Most of these archeological sites are
-not easily discerned by the untrained eye, but the stone windbreaks at
-Indian Tunnel are easily examined. Rings of rocks that may have been
-used for temporary shelter, hunting blinds, or religious purposes,
-numerous stone tools, and the hammerstones and chippings of arrowhead
-making are found scattered throughout the lava flows. Some of the
-harder, dense volcanic materials found here were made into crude cutting
-and scraping tools and projectile points. Such evidence suggests only
-short forays into the lavas for hunting or collecting by small groups.
-
-The Northern Shoshone were a hunting and gathering culture directly
-dependent on what the land offered. They turned what they could of this
-volcanic environment to their benefit. Before settlement by Europeans,
-the vicinity of the park boasted several game species that are rare or
-absent from Craters of the Moon today. These included elk, wolf, bison,
-grizzly and black bear, and the cougar. Bighorn sheep, whose males sport
-characteristic headgear of large, curled horns, have been absent from
-the park since about 1920.
-
-Military explorer U.S. Army Capt. B.L.E. Bonneville left impressions of
-the Craters of the Moon lava field in his travel diaries in the early
-1800s. In _The Adventures of Captain Bonneville_, which were based on
-the diaries, 19th-century author Washington Irving pictures a place
-“where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste, where no
-grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but lava.”
-Irving is perhaps most famous for _The Legend of Sleepy Hollow_, but his
-_Adventures_ is considered a significant period work about the West and
-provided this early, if brief, glimpse of a then unnamed Craters of the
-Moon.
-
-Pioneers working westward in the 19th century sought either gold or
-affordable farm or ranch lands so they, like the Northern Shoshone,
-bypassed these lava wastes. Later, nearby settlers would venture into
-this area in search of additional grazing lands. Finding none, they left
-Craters of the Moon substantially alone.
-
-Early pioneers who left traces in the vicinity of the park did so by
-following what eventually came to be known as Goodale’s Cutoff. The
-route was based on Indian trails that skirted the lava fields in the
-northern section of the park. It came into use in the early 1850s as an
-alternate to the regular route of the Oregon Trail. Shoshone Indian
-hostilities along the Snake River part of the trail—one such incident is
-memorialized in Idaho’s Massacre Rocks State Park—led the emigrants to
-search for a safer route. They were headed for Oregon, particularly the
-Walla Walla area around Whitman Mission, family groups in search of
-agricultural lands for settlement. Emigrants traveling it in 1854
-noticed names carved in rocks and trees along its route. It was named in
-1862 by travelers apparently grateful to their guide, Tim Goodale, whose
-presence, they felt, had prevented Indian attacks. Illinois-born Goodale
-was cut in the mold of the typical early trapper and trader of the Far
-West. He was known to the famous fur trade brothers Solomon and William
-Sublette. His name turned up at such fur trade locales as Pueblo, Taos,
-Fort Bridger, and Fort Laramie over a period of at least 20 years.
-
-After the discovery of gold in Idaho’s Salmon River country, a party of
-emigrants persuaded Goodale to guide them over the route they would name
-for him. Goodale was an experienced guide: in 1861, he had served in
-that capacity for a military survey west of Denver. The large band of
-emigrants set out in July and was joined by more wagons at Craters of
-the Moon. Eventually their numbers included 795 men and 300 women and
-children. Indian attacks occurred frequently along the Oregon Trail at
-that time, but the size of this group evidently discouraged such
-incursions. The trip was not without incident, but Goodale’s reputation
-remained sufficiently intact for his clients to affix his name to the
-route. Subsequent modifications and the addition of a ferry crossing on
-the Snake River made Goodale’s Cutoff into a popular route for western
-emigration. Traces of it are still visible in the vicinity of the park
-today.
-
-Curiosity about this uninhabitable area eventually led to more detailed
-knowledge of Craters of the Moon and knowledge led to its preservation.
-Geologists Israel C. Russell and Harold T. Stearns of the U.S.
-Geological Survey explored here in 1901 and 1923, respectively.
-Taxidermist-turned-lecturer Robert Limbert explored the area in the
-early 1920s. Limbert made three trips. On the first two, he more or less
-retraced the steps of these geologists. On his third and most ambitious
-trek, Limbert and W. L. Cole traversed what is now the park and the
-Craters of the Moon Wilderness Area south to north, starting from the
-nearby community of Minidoka. Their route took them by Two Point Butte,
-Echo Crater, Big Craters, North Crater Flow and out to the Old
-Arco-Carey Road, then known as the Yellowstone Park and Lincoln Highway.
-These explorations and their attendant publicity in _National Geographic
-Magazine_ were instrumental in the proclamation of Craters of the Moon
-as a national monument by President Calvin Coolidge in 1924.
-
-Since Limbert’s day, astronauts have walked both here and on the moon.
-Despite our now detailed knowledge of the differences between these two
-places, the name—and much of the park’s awe-inspiring appeal—remains the
-same. It is as though by learning more about both these niches in our
-universe we somehow have learned more about ourselves as well.
-
- [Illustration: _In the mid-1800s the Oregon Trail served as a major
- route to the West for pioneers. But when hostilities developed along
- the trail with the Shoshone-Bannock Indians, many of the emigrants
- began using an alternate route known as Goodale’s Cutoff. This trail
- went further north and passed through the present-day park
- boundary._]
-
-(_continued on page 52_)
-
-
- Early Explorers and the Limbert Expedition
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
- The first known explorations of these lava fields were conducted by
- two Arco, Idaho, cattlemen in 1879. Arthur Ferris and J.W. Powell were
- looking for water for their livestock. The first scientific
- explorations were carried out by Israel C. Russell, surveying the area
- for the U.S. Geological Survey in 1901 and 1903. Beginning in 1910,
- Samuel A. Paisely, later to become the park’s first custodian, also
- explored these lava fields. In 1921, the U.S.G.S. sent two geologists
- here, Harold T. Stearns and O.E. Meinzer, with a geologist from the
- Carnegie Institute. Based on this field work, Stearns recommended that
- a national monument be created here. Also during the early 20s, the
- explorations of Idaho entrepreneur Robert W. Limbert caught the
- public’s fancy. A report of the explorations of “Two-gun” Bob Limbert
- was published in the March 1924 _National Geographic Magazine_.
- Limbert was a Boise, Idaho, taxidermist, tanner, and furrier. He was
- also an amateur wrestler and quick-draw artist who later performed on
- the national lecture circuit. Reportedly, Limbert once challenged Al
- Capone to a pistol duel at 10 paces. Evidently Capone declined.
- Limbert made three treks into the lava fields between 1921 and 1924.
- He first explored the more easily accessible northern portion of the
- lava fields. Limbert’s third expedition crossed the area from south to
- north, however, starting from Minidoka.
-
-
- The Limbert Trek
-
- [Illustration: _On his third expedition, Limbert, Cole, and a dog
- traversed the lava flows from south to north. The photos that
- appeared in_ The National Geographic Magazine _in 1924 were taken on
- various expeditions._]
-
- With Limbert were W.L. Cole and an Airedale terrier. Taking the dog
- along was a mistake, Limbert wrote, “for after three days’ travel his
- feet were worn raw and bleeding.” Limbert said it was pitiful to watch
- the dog as it hobbled after them. The landscape was so unusual that
- Limbert and Cole had difficulty estimating distances. Things would be
- half again as far away as they had reckoned. In some areas their
- compass needles went wild with magnetic distortions caused by high
- concentrations of iron in the lava rock. Bizarre features they
- found—such as multi-colored, blow-out craters—moved Limbert to write:
- “I noticed that at places like these we had almost nothing to say.”
- Limbert and Cole discovered ice caves with ice stalactites. They found
- water by tracking the flights of mourning doves. They found pockets of
- cold water (trapped above ground by ice deposits below the surface)
- covered with yellowjackets fatally numbed by the cold. They drank the
- water anyway. In desert country, said Limbert, one can’t be too picky.
- Between Limbert’s lively article in the _National Geographic
- Magazine_, and the reports of geologist Stearns, President Calvin
- Coolidge was induced to designate part of the lava fields as Craters
- of the Moon National Monument on May 2, 1924.
-
- [Illustration: {untitled}]
-
- [Illustration: {untitled}]
-
-
-
-
- Part 3
- Guide and Adviser
-
-
- [Illustration: ]
-
-
-
-
- Approaching Craters of the Moon
-
-
-_Craters of the Moon National Monument is located in south-central
-Idaho’s Snake River Plain, midway between Boise, Idaho, and Grand Teton
-and Yellowstone National Parks. The park includes 53,545 acres, and the
-elevation at the visitor center is 5,900 feet above sea level. U.S.
-20-26-93 gives access to the park. Nominal entrance fees are charged.
-Golden Eagle, Golden Age, and Golden Access passports are honored and
-may be obtained at the entrance station._
-
-
- Seasons and Weather.
-
-Park facilities are open and naturalist programs are conducted from
-mid-June through Labor Day. From November to April, the Loop Drive (see
-map) is closed by snow and park facilities are limited. In spring and
-fall, the opening and closing of facilities and the Loop Drive are
-determined by weather conditions, which vary greatly from year to year.
-In spring the weather is unpredictable. Strong winds may occur and snow
-and/or freezing rain are not uncommon. Temperatures range from highs in
-the 50s to lows in the 20s°F. Summer features warm to hot days and cool
-nights. Expect afternoon winds. There may be very sporadic afternoon
-thunderstorms, and temperatures may range from the 40s to the 90s. Fall
-offers generally fair weather with low precipitation and infrequent
-winds. Early snowstorms are possible, and snow is certain by late fall.
-Fall temperatures range from highs in the 60s to lows in the 30s. Winter
-brings the possibility of severe storms with drifting snow. Highway
-access is often best described as snow-packed. On bright sunny days
-temperatures may reach into the 40s, but the range is generally from
-highs in the 30s to lows around minus 10.
-
- [Illustration: _Today’s park encompasses a small portion of the
- Great Rift and the greater portion of the Craters of the Moon Lava
- Field near Arco, Idaho. Blue arrows on this map show the route of
- the Limbert Expeditions in the 1920s. The detail map appears on page
- 58._]
-
-
- Limbert’s route
- From Minidoka.
- Two Point Butte
- Vermillion Chasm
- Sheep Trail Butte
- Echo Crater
- Bridge of Tears
- Big Cinder Butte
- Big Craters
- North Crater Flow
- Old Arco Carey Road
- Martin P.O.
- See detail map
- Visitor Center
-
-
- Handicapped Access.
-
-The park visitor center, restrooms, and amphitheater are accessible to
-the disabled.
-
-
- Travel Planning.
-
-U.S. 20-26-93 provides access to Craters of the Moon. No public
-transportation serves the park. Scheduled airlines serve Idaho Falls,
-Twin Falls, and Hailey, Idaho. Rental cars are generally available at
-these airports, but advance reservations are advised. It is about a
-three-hour drive from the park to Grand Teton National Park, and about a
-four-hour drive to Yellowstone National Park. The official Idaho State
-Highway Map is available from the Idaho Transportation Department, P.O.
-Box 7129, Boise, ID 83707, telephone (208) 334-8000. Idaho’s travel
-office provides information about cultural activities, scenic tours,
-outfitters and guides, chambers of commerce, hotels, and motels
-throughout the state. Write or call Idaho’s Travel Promotion Division,
-700 West State Street, Boise, ID 83720-2700, telephone (208) 334-2470.
-
-
- Stay on Roads.
-
-Please stay on roadways and parking pullouts that are provided. If a
-vehicle goes off the roadway onto cinders, the cinders are compacted and
-the tracks may remain visible for 10 to 20 years or more.
-
-Information about the Park. Address specific inquiries about the park to
-the Superintendent, Craters of the Moon National Monument, P.O. Box 29,
-Arco, ID 83213, or telephone (208) 527-3257.
-
- [Illustration: _Make the visitor center your first stop in the park.
- Ask at the information desk for schedules of ranger-led walks,
- talks, and other programs and for advice about camping._]
-
- [Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
-
-
-
-
- Visitor Center and Programs
-
-
-The park visitor center is located near the only entrance to the park.
-Here you will find displays and information to help you plan your visit.
-Slides, postcards, maps, and other publications about the park are
-displayed for sale. Park Service rangers at the information counter can
-answer your questions and help you plan your stay in the park.
-
-The displays alert you to wildflowers and wild animals you might expect
-to see here. Other exhibits describe the park’s geologic history. A film
-explains how lava flowed from fissures in the Earth to create the cinder
-cones, lava flows, and other volcanic features you will see at Craters
-of the Moon. The film includes actual footage of eruptions of the same
-type that occurred here some 2,000 years ago. Check at the visitor
-center for the schedules of conducted walks and campfire programs. You
-also can get information here about two self-guiding nature trails and
-the park’s Loop Drive (see page 59).
-
-
- Activities and Evening Programs.
-
-In summer, ranger-guided walks and other programs give visitors an
-intimate look at various aspects of the park. Program schedules vary; we
-suggest that you contact the park for current information prior to
-arrival. Several sites have been designed to make it easy to see the
-park on your own. The visitor center is a good place to stop and plan
-your visit. Evening programs may find you wanting a sweater or light
-jacket to ward off the chill, despite the hot summer days. These
-programs explore such topics as the park’s wildlife and its survival,
-the powers of nature, and this landscape’s volcanic origins. Some
-programs are illustrated with slides or movies and take place in the
-amphitheater.
-
-
- Self-guiding Trails.
-
-Explore three representative areas of the park on self-guiding nature
-trails. Devils Orchard Trail helps you understand the complex
-environmental concerns facing Craters of the Moon. A pamphlet available
-at the trailhead discusses the major impacts visitors, neighbors, and
-managers have on the fragile lava landscape. Numbered explanations
-correspond to markers along the trail. You can walk this trail in about
-20 minutes. North Crater Flow Trail takes you through a lava flow that
-includes rafted blocks (crater wall fragments) and other interesting
-features characteristic of basaltic lava flows, which are explained by
-wayside exhibits. This trail goes through one of the most recent lava
-flows in the park. The shiny lava flows made early explorers think the
-volcanic eruptions had happened only a few years before. Please stay on
-trails in this very fragile area. The park was established to provide
-protection for its unusual landscape features. These require continuing
-protection and you can help provide it. Caves Trail allows you the
-opportunity to explore a lava tube. These caves formed when the surface
-of lava flow cooled and hardened while the interior remained molten and
-continued to drain. After the lava drained away, a hollow tube remained.
-A pamphlet at the trailhead provides a map of the cave area and tells
-you what to expect as you explore these lava tubes on your own. Wayside
-exhibits point out the most interesting lava formations along the trail.
-To see only Indian Tunnel, the largest of the lava tubes, will require
-nearly one hour.
-
- [Illustration: _Visitors read a wayside exhibit beneath imposing
- monoliths. Flows of lava rafted such fragments of broken crater
- walls into otherwise inexplicable positions._]
-
-
-
-
- Map
-
-
-[Illustration: Craters of the Moon National Monument]
-
-
- Wilderness area
- Grassy Cone
- 1925 m
- _6315 ft_
- Sunset Cone
- 1954 m
- _6415 ft_
- Backcountry area
- Trail
- Point of interest
- ①
- Visitor Center
- To Arco
- To Carey
- Campground
- ②
- North Crater Flow Trail
- North Crater Trail
- Silent Cone
- 1838 m
- _6357 ft._
- North Crater
- 1908 m
- _8244 ft_
- ③
- Devils Orchard Nature Trail
- Paisley Cone
- 1881 m
- _6107 ft_
- ④
- Inferno Cone
- 1884 m
- _6181 ft_
- ⑤
- Snow Cone
- Spatter Cones
- North Crater Trail
- ⑥
- GREAT RIFT ZONE
- BIG SINK
- Broken Top
- 1846 m
- _5058 ft_
- Buffalo Cave
- Half Cone
- 1845 m
- _5055 ft_
- Big Cinder Butte
- 1988 m
- _5516 ft_
- TREE MOLDS
- ⑦
- Dewdrop Cave
- Surprise Cave
- Beauty Cave
- Boy Scout Cave
- Indian Tunnel
- PIONEER MOUNTAINS
- GREEN DRAGON FLOWS
- SERRATE FLOW
- BLUE DRAGON FLOWS
- BROKEN TOP FLOW
- LAVA CASCADES
- BIG CRATERS
-
-
-
-
- Take The Driving Tour
-
-
-You can see most of the features for which Craters of the Moon is famous
-by a combined auto and foot tour along the Loop Drive. With several
-short walks included, you can make the drive in about two hours.
-Numbered stops are keyed to the map in the park folder.
-
-1. Visitor Center. The 7-mile Loop Drive begins at the visitor center.
-Most of the drive is one-way. Spur roads and trailheads enable you to
-explore this lava field even further.
-
-2. North Crater Flow. A short foot trail crosses the North Crater Flow
-to a group of crater wall fragments transported by lava flows. This is
-one of the youngest flows here. The triple twist tree and its 1,350
-growth rings have in the past helped date the recency of the last flows
-here. Along this trail you can see fine examples of pahoehoe lava and aa
-lava flows (see page 26). Just beyond the North Crater Flow Trail is the
-North Crater Trail. This short, steep, self-guiding nature trail leads
-you to the vent overlooking the crater of a cinder cone.
-
-3. Devils Orchard. Devils Orchard is a group of lava fragments that
-stand like islands in a sea of cinders. This marks the resting place for
-blocks of material from the walls of North Crater that broke free and
-were rafted here on lava flows. The short spur road leads to a
-self-guiding trail through these weird features. You can easily walk the
-trail in about 20 minutes. An early morning or evening visit may allow
-you to observe park wildlife. In springtime, the wildflower displays in
-the cinder gardens are glorious. In June and early July, dwarf blooming
-monkeyflowers give the ground a magenta cast.
-
-4. Inferno Cone Viewpoint. From the viewpoint atop Inferno Cone, a
-landscape of volcanic cinder cones spreads before you to the distant
-mountain ranges beyond. Notice that the cooler, moister northern slopes
-of the cones bear noticeably more vegetation than the drier southern
-slopes, which receive the brunt of sunshine. If you take the short,
-steep walk to the summit of Inferno Cone, you can easily recognize the
-chain of cinder cones that defines the Great Rift. Perhaps nowhere else
-in the park is it so easy to visualize how the volcanic activity broke
-out along this great fissure in the Earth. Towering in the distance
-above the lava plain is Big Cinder Butte, one of the world’s largest,
-purely basaltic, cinder cones.
-
-5. Big Craters and Spatter Cones Area. Spatter cones formed along the
-Great Rift fissure where clots of pasty lava stuck together when they
-fell. The materials and forces of these eruptions originated at depths
-of approximately 40 miles within the Earth. A short, steep walk to the
-top of Big Craters offers a view of a series of volcanic vents.
-
-6. Trails to Tree Molds and the Wilderness Area. A spur road just beyond
-Inferno Cone takes you to trails to the Tree Molds Area and the Craters
-of the Moon Wilderness. Tree molds formed where molten lava flows
-encased trees and then hardened (see page 27). The cylindrical molds
-that remained after the wood burned and rotted away range from a few
-inches to more than 1 foot in diameter.
-
-7. Cave Area. At this final stop on the Loop Drive, a ½-mile walk takes
-you to the lava tubes. Here you can see Dewdrop, Boy Scout, Beauty, and
-Surprise Caves and the Indian Tunnel. (For how these lava tubes formed,
-see page 30.) Carry a flashlight in all caves except Indian Tunnel.
-
-
-
-
- Camping and Backcountry Use
-
-
-The campground has about 50 sites. These are available on a first-come,
-first-served basis. Reservations are not accepted. A daily fee for
-camping is charged. Water and restrooms are provided in the campground,
-but there are no showers, dump station, or hookups. Wood fires are
-prohibited in the park, but grills at each campsite may be used for
-charcoal fires. The campground accommodates both RVs and tents. During
-the summer, park rangers present evening programs at the campground
-amphitheater.
-
-
- Backcountry Use.
-
-Some of the park’s most intriguing landscapes lie beyond the road’s end
-in the 68-square-mile Craters of the Moon Wilderness Area. Only two
-trails penetrate the wilderness, and these for only short distances.
-After the three-mile trail to Echo Crater runs out, you are on your own.
-For further exploration, you can simply follow the Great Rift and its
-chain of cinder cones. These landmarks help you find your way.
-
-To explore farther afield, you should have a good topographic map and
-basic map skills. You can purchase such a map at the visitor center. All
-hikers who plan to stay overnight in the wilderness are required to
-register with a park ranger. Backcountry use permits are available free
-at the visitor center.
-
-Each hiker should carry at least one gallon of water for each day out;
-even more may be necessary during the hot summer. There is no drinking
-water available in the wilderness. The best times for wilderness travel
-are May-June and September-October. Daytime temperatures are usually
-mild then, while nights are cool, but you must be prepared for inclement
-and very cold weather in these transitional months. Summer daytime
-temperatures climb into the 90s, and reflected heat off the lavas may be
-even higher. Long distance hiking is not very pleasant then, and the
-weight of necessary drinking water is burdensome.
-
-
- Safety.
-
-Sturdy boots and long pants are necessary gear for the jagged aa lava
-flows. Bring clothing for both hot and cool weather; both can occur the
-same day in this desert climate. (See drinking water warning above.)
-
-
- Regulations.
-
-Campfires are prohibited in the backcountry. Carry a self-contained
-backpack stove and fuel. Mechanized vehicles, including bicycles, are
-prohibited in the wilderness area. Pets are also prohibited in the
-wilderness. Pack out everything that you pack in—and any trash you find
-that others left behind. A good admonition is: “Take only pictures, and
-try not to leave so much as a footprint.”
-
-
-
-
- Winter Recreation
-
-
-The visitor center is open every day except winter holidays. Winter
-hours are 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Wilderness permits, topographic maps, and
-information are available here. To find out about current snow
-conditions, call (208) 527-3257.
-
-Skiing. Crosscountry skiing provides an enjoyable experience of the
-park’s landscape transformed by snow. When heavy snows accumulate,
-usually in late November, the 7-mile Loop Drive is closed and it becomes
-a natural ski trail. Most of the Loop Drive follows fairly level
-terrain. The best months for skiing are January to March in most
-winters. Usually there is about 18 inches of snowpack by January and 3
-feet by March. Temperatures range from 45°F to well below zero. Be
-prepared for inclement weather and high winds at all times. Blizzards
-may be encountered.
-
-Hazards. Skiing off the Loop Drive is allowed but not recommended. Most
-of the park is covered by sharp, jagged lava, and snow cover may mask
-cracks and caverns underneath.
-
-Camping. Winter camping is permitted in the main campground. The
-campground is not plowed; be prepared to camp in the snow. Wood fires
-are not permitted anywhere in the park.
-
-Wilderness use. The wilderness is ideal for overnight ski trips. You
-should be well equipped and experienced at winter camping, however. A
-free wilderness use permit, available at the visitor center, is required
-for all overnight use outside the park campground.
-
- _Both backpackers and crosscountry skiers find solitude in their
- respective seasons in the park. Others may prefer ranger-led
- explorations of the park’s many unusual features._
-
- [Illustration: Backpackers]
-
- [Illustration: Crosscountry skiers]
-
- [Illustration: Ranger-led explorations]
-
-
-
-
- Regulations and Safety
-
-
-Many management concerns, regulations, and safety tips are given under
-specific subjects in this handbook. Here are some other things to
-consider.
-
-Precautions must be taken when you explore the park because of the
-rugged terrain, heat, and lack of naturally available drinking water.
-You will need sturdy boots, a hat, and ample, leakproof water
-containers. Make sure containers are watertight before you leave home.
-Exploring caves requires flashlights.
-
-Camp only in the park campground. All other overnight use, even in
-winter, requires a wilderness use permit. A day-use permit is required
-to visit the area of the park that lies north of Highway 20-26-93.
-
-
- Pets.
-
-Pets are allowed only in the campground and on the Loop Drive, but they
-must be kept on a leash at all times. Pets are prohibited in all public
-buildings, on trails, or in off-road areas.
-
-
- Vehicles.
-
-All motor vehicles and bicycles must stay on paved roads only. They are
-not allowed on trails.
-
-
- Firearms.
-
-Firearm restrictions are enforced: No hunting is allowed in the park.
-
-
- Collecting.
-
-The collection, removal, or disturbance of any natural features within
-the park is strictly prohibited.
-
- [Illustration: _For contemporary explorers the driving tour and its
- associated trails make the safest trek routes. Exercise great
- caution—and close oversight of young children—at all times on your
- park expeditions._]
-
- [Illustration: {trail}]
-
-
-
-
- Nearby Attractions
-
-
-Yellowstone National Park is world famous for its geysers and mudpots,
-canyons and waterfalls, and wildlife and wilderness. For information
-write or call, Superintendent, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190,
-(307) 344-7381.
-
- [Illustration: _Minerva Terrace, Yellowstone_]
-
-
-Grand Teton National Park features the spectacularly scenic Teton Range
-and lovely lakes at its base. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway
-joins Grand Teton with Yellowstone. For information write or call,
-Superintendent, Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Drawer 170, Moose, WY
-83012, (307) 733-2880.
-
- [Illustration: _Grand Teton in winter_]
-
-
-Nez Perce National Historical Park includes 24 widely scattered sites in
-north-central Idaho that present the history of this ancestral homeland
-of the Nez Perce tribe. For information write or call, Superintendent,
-Nez Perce National Historical Park, P.O. Box 93, Spalding, ID 83551,
-(208) 843-2261.
-
- [Illustration: _A Nez Perce today_]
-
-
-Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, authorized in 1988, preserves
-Pliocene fossil sites along Idaho’s Snake River. The National Park
-Service is planning for future needs. Facilities have not been
-developed. For information write or call, Superintendent, Hagerman
-Fossil Beds National Monument, P.O. Box 570, Hagerman, ID 83332, (208)
-837-4793.
-
-
-City of Rocks National Reserve is a fascinating landscape of monoliths,
-spires, and domes used historically by Northern Shoshone Indians and
-emigrants on the California Trail. It has become a mecca for
-recreational rock climbers. Primitive facilities. For information write,
-Manager, City of Rocks National Reserve, P.O. Box 169, Almo, ID 83312.
-
-
-
-
- Armchair Explorations
-
-
-The nonprofit Craters of the Moon Natural History Association sells
-books, maps, and other publications at the visitor center or by mail.
-For a free list write to the park address on page 55. The following
-selected books may also be of interest.
-
-Belknap, William J. “Man on the Moon in Idaho,” _National Geographic
-Magazine_, Volume 119 (October, 1960).
-
-Bonnichsen, Bill and Roy M. Breckenridge et al. _Cenozoic Geology of
-Idaho_, Idaho Geologic Survey, University of Idaho, 1982.
-
-Bullard, Fred M. _Volcanoes of the Earth_, University of Texas Press,
-1976.
-
-Chronic, Halka. _Pages of Stone: The Geologic Story of Our Western Parks
-and Monuments_, The Mountaineers, 1984.
-
-Clark, David R. _Craters of the Moon—Idaho’s Unearthly Landscape_,
-Craters of the Moon Natural History Association, 1990.
-
-Henderson, Paul A. _Around the Loop: Craters of the Moon_, Craters of
-the Moon Natural History Association, 1986.
-
-Limbert, Robert W. “Among Craters of the Moon,” _National Geographic
-Magazine_, Volume 45 (March, 1924).
-
-McKee, Bates. _Cascadia_, McGraw-Hill, 1972.
-
-Moser, Don. _The Snake River Country_, Time-Life Books, 1974.
-
-National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA). _Volcanism of the
-Eastern Snake River Plain, Idaho: A Comparative Planetary Geology
-Guidebook_, Washington, D.C., 1977.
-
-Schwartz, Susan. _Nature in the Northwest_, Prentice-Hall, 1983.
-
-
-Other National Park Handbooks in this series. You might enjoy other
-official National Park Handbooks about areas in Idaho, Wyoming, and
-Montana. These handbooks include: Grand Teton National Park; Nez Perce
-National Historical Park; Devils Tower National Monument; and Fort
-Laramie National Historic Site.
-
-These informative handbooks are available at the parks or by mail from:
-Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office,
-Washington, DC 20402. For a list of handbooks write to: National Park
-Service, Office of Information, P.O. Box 37127, Washington, DC
-20013-7127.
-
-
-★GPO: 1990—262-098/20002
-
-
-
-
- National Park Service
- U.S. Department of the Interior
-
-
-As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department of the
-Interior has responsibility for most of our nationally owned public
-lands and natural resources. This includes fostering wise use of our
-land and water resources, protecting our fish and wildlife, preserving
-the environmental and cultural values of our national parks and
-historical places, and providing for the enjoyment of life through
-outdoor recreation. The Department assesses our energy and mineral
-resources and works to assure that their development is in the best
-interest of all our people. The Department also promotes the goals of
-the Take Pride in America campaign by encouraging stewardship and
-citizen responsibility for the public lands and promoting citizen
-participation in their care. The Department also has major
-responsibility for American Indian reservation communities and for
-people who live in island territories under U.S. administration.
-
-The National Park Service expresses its appreciation to all those
-persons who made the preparation and production of this handbook
-possible. Special thanks are due the Craters of the Moon Natural History
-Association for financial support. Unless credited below, photographs
-and illustrations come from the files of Craters of the Moon National
-Monument and the National Park Service.
-
-
- Gary Braasch 28 top
- Bureau of Land Management 29 top
- Vern Crawford 30-31
- Jeff Gnass 4-5, 6, 27 tree mold
- Charley Gurche 10-11, 32-33, 36 monkeyflower
- Russell Lamb 63 Nez Perce
- Roger McGehee 30 owl
- NASA 16 inset
- National Geographic Society 50-51, 63 Grand Teton (David Alan Harvey)
- U.S. Geological Survey 25 both
- Glenn Van Nimwegen 34, 36-37
- Williams and Heintz Map Corporation 58
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
- is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—Relocated all image captions to be immediately under the corresponding
- images, removing redundant references like ”preceding page”.
-
-—Silently corrected a few palpable typos.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Craters of the Moon, by Anonymous
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