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diff --git a/old/63172-h/63172-h.htm b/old/63172-h/63172-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 8f63bfd..0000000 --- a/old/63172-h/63172-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8984 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Pacific Coast Vacation, by Ida Dorman Morris. - </title> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} - -/*Modified horizontal rules to fix ePub display issue*/ -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -/*End modified horizontal rule CSS*/ - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - -/*Table of Contents format*/ -table.toc { max-width: 30em;} -td.tocchapter{ text-align: right; vertical-align: top; padding-right: 1em;} -td.toctitle { text-align: left; vertical-align: top; text-indent: -1.3em; padding-left: 1.3em;} -td.tocpage { text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: 1em;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.boxit{ - max-width: 25em; - padding: 0.75em; - padding-bottom:0.1em; - border: 0.25em solid black; - margin: 0 auto; } - -.boxit1{ - max-width: 25em; - padding: 1em; - padding-bottom:2em; - border: 0.15em solid black; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - -.boxit2{ - max-width: 25em; - padding: 1em; - padding-bottom:2em; - border: 0.15em solid black; - margin-bottom: 0.75em; } - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ -img {max-width: 100%; height:auto; } - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - max-width: 90%; -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: dashed 0.05em;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: top; - font-size: .66em; - text-decoration: none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry-container {text-align: center;} - -.poetry -{ - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} - -.poetry .indent0 {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em;} -.poetry .indentquote0 {text-indent: -3.5em; padding-left: 3em;} -.poetry .indent8{text-indent: -1em; padding-left: 10em;} -.poetry .indent9{text-indent: -1em; padding-left: 14em;} - - -/* End poetry*/ - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -/*CSS to set font sizes*/ -/*font sizes for non-header font changes*/ -.xxlargefont{font-size: xx-large} -.xlargefont{font-size: x-large} -.largefont{font-size: large} -.mediumfont{font-size: medium} -.smallfont{font-size: small} -.boldfont{font-weight:bold} -.cheaderfont{font-size:medium} - -/*CSS to force a page break in ePub*/ -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} - -.nobreak{ - page-break-before: avoid; - padding-top: 0; -} - -/*CSS markup for handhelds -- put at end of CSS*/ -@media handheld -{ - .poetry - { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; - } -} -/*End CSS for handhelds*/ - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Pacific Coast Vacation, by Ida Dorman Morris - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Pacific Coast Vacation - -Author: Ida Dorman Morris - -Release Date: September 10, 2020 [EBook #63172] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A PACIFIC COAST VACATION *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Bryan Ness, Craig Kirkwood, -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover." /> -</div> - -<div style="padding-top:2em"> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MRS. JAMES EDWIN MORRIS.</p></div> -</div></div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/titlepage.jpg" alt="Title page." /> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="boxit"> -<div class="boxit1"> -<h1 class="nobreak" style="color:red">A<br /> -PACIFIC COAST<br /> -VACATION</h1> -</div> - -<div class="boxit1"> -<p class="center p2">BY<br /> -<span class="smcap xlargefont" style="line-height:2em">Mrs. JAMES EDWIN MORRIS</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><em>Illustrated from Photographs Taken En Route<br /> -by James Edwin Morris</em></p> -</div> - -<div class="boxit2"> -<p class="center p2 boldfont" style="line-height:1.5">THE<br /> -<span class="xxlargefont" style="color:red; vertical-align:25%">Abbey Press</span><br /> -PUBLISHERS<br /> -114<br /> -FIFTH AVENUE<br /> -LONDON <span style="padding-left:0.75em; padding-right:0.75em">NEW YORK</span> MONTREAL -</p> -</div></div></div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center smallfont">Copyright, 1901,<br /> -by<br /> -THE<br /> -<span class="center boldfont mediumfont" style="font-style:italic">Abbey Press</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center largefont">Dedicated to Alaska’s Beautiful Daughter,</p> - -<p class="center largefont"><span class="smcap">Miss Edna McFarland</span></p> - -<p>Linked in my memory of those sea-girt shores where -snow-crowned mountains tower like castles old; where -wild cataracts hurl their waters down rugged cliffs to the -sea; where sea gulls mingle their cries with the rushing -torrents; where frost giants stride up and down the -land; where the Aurora flames through the long winter -nights, will ever be the name of this gifted daughter -of Alaska.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak">FOREWORD</h2> -</div> - - -<p>If you ask what motive she who loved these -scenes had in essaying to portray them with pen -and camera, she would reply that like the Duke -of Buckingham, when visiting the scene where -Anna of Austria had whispered that she loved -him, let fall a precious gem that another finding -it, might be happy in that charméd spot where -he himself had been.</p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="toc" border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> -<tr><td class="tocchapter"></td><td></td><td class="tocpage"><span class="smallfont">PAGE</span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">FOREWORD</td><td></td><td class="tocpage"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter"><span class="smallfont">CHAPTER</span></td><td></td><td class="tocpage"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">I.</td><td class="toctitle">AUF WIEDERSEHEN</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">II.</td><td class="toctitle">PLENTY OF ROOM</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">III.</td><td class="toctitle">OFF FOR ALASKA</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">IV.</td><td class="toctitle">FIRST VIEWS</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">V.</td><td class="toctitle">FURTHER GLIMPSES</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">VI.</td><td class="toctitle">GOLD FIELDS</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">VII.</td><td class="toctitle">MUIR GLACIER</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">VIII.</td><td class="toctitle">SITKA</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">IX.</td><td class="toctitle">ALASKA</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">X.</td><td class="toctitle">FAREWELL TO SKAGWAY</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XI.</td><td class="toctitle">WASHINGTON AND OREGON</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XII.</td><td class="toctitle">OFF FOR CALIFORNIA</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_160">160</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XIII.</td><td class="toctitle">SAN FRANCISCO</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_173">173</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XIV.</td><td class="toctitle">CALIFORNIA FARMS AND VINEYARDS</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XV.</td><td class="toctitle">YOSEMITE</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XVI.</td><td class="toctitle">SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XVII.</td><td class="toctitle">HERE AND THERE ON THE COAST</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XVIII.</td><td class="toctitle">WALLA WALLA VALLEY</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XIX.</td><td class="toctitle">HISTORICAL REFERENCES</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tocchapter">XX.</td><td class="toctitle">YELLOWSTONE PARK</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="center"> -<table class="toc" border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations."> -<tr><td class="toctitle"></td><td class="tocpage"><span class="smallfont">PAGE</span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Junction of the Mississippi and Black Rivers</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii009">9</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Falls of Saint Anthony</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii011">11</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Falls of Minnehaha</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii013">13</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Old Fort Snelling</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii015">15</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Roadway, Soldiers’ Barracks, Fort Snelling</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii017">17</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Entering the Cascade Range</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii035">35</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Lava Beds in Washington</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii037">37</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Tangle of Wild Fern in a Washington Forest</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii039">39</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Mount Rainier</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii041">41</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Street in Tacoma, Washington</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii045">45</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Parliament House, Victoria</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii051">51</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Gorge of Homathco</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii053">53</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Light House, Point Robert</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii055">55</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Fjords of Alaska</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii057">57</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Fishing Hamlet of Ketchikan</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii059">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Fort Wrangel, Alaska</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii063">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Chief Shake’s House, Fort Wrangel</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii067">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Entering Wrangel Narrows</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii071">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Douglas Island, Looking Toward Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii073">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Silver Bow Cañon, Juneau. (<em>By permission of F. Laroche, photographer, Seattle, Washington</em>)</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii075">75</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Old Russian Court House, Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii077">77</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Street in Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii079">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Greek Church, Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii081">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Indian Chief’s House, Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii083">83</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Summit of the Selkirk Range, at Head of Yukon River. Old Glory Waves Beside the British Flag</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii085">85</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">The Skagway Enchantress</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Skagway, Showing White Pass</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii091">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Muir Glacier (section of)</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii093">93</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Greek Church, Killisnoo</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii099">99</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Kitchnatti</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii101">101</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Sitka—Soldiers’ Barracks, Old Russian Warehouse and Greek Church on the right, Indian Village on the left, -Russian Blockhouses Beyond, and Mission Schools in the Distance. -(<em>By permission of F. Laroche, photographer, Seattle, Washington</em>)</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii103">103</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Indian Avenue, Sitka</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii105">105</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Blockhouse on Bank of Indian River, Sitka, Alaska</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii107">107</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Rapids, Indian River, Sitka</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii113">113</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Where Whales and Porpoises Poke Their Noses Up Through the Brine</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii119">119</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Steamer Queen Leaving Juneau</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii133">133</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Alps of America</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii135">135</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Government Locks on the Columbia River</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii143">143</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Rapids, Columbia River</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii145">145</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Farm on the Bank of the Columbia River, Below the Dalles, Oregon</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Scene on an Oregon Farm in the Willamette Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii151">151</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Roadway in Oregon</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii153">153</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Climbing the Shasta Range</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii163">163</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">The Highest Trestle in the World, near Muir’s Peak, Shasta Range</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii165">165</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Mount Shasta. (<em>By permission of F. Laroche, photographer, Seattle, Washington</em>)</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii167">167</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Street Scene in Chinatown, San Francisco</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Museum in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii181">181</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Early Morning, Yosemite Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii189">189</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Wawona Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii191">191</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Oldest Log Cabin in the Sequoia Grove, Mariposa County, California. Old Columbia in the Foreground</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii193">193</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Half Dome and Merced River</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii195">195</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Merced River, Yosemite Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii197">197</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Yosemite Falls</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii199">199</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">El Capitan</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii201">201</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Bridal Veil Falls and the Three Brothers (solid rock)</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Mirror Lake, Sleeping Water</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii205">205</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Yosemite Falls, Showing Floor of the Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii207">207</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Sunrise in Yosemite Valley</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii209">209</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Entering Hell Gate Cañon</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Liberty Cap and Old Fort Yellowstone</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Hotel Mammoth, Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone Park, Just Before an Eruption</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii239">239</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Yellowstone Lake</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii241">241</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Camping on the Shore of Lake Yellowstone</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii243">243</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Paint Pots on Shore of Yellowstone Lake</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Gibbon River Falls</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii249">249</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="toctitle">Micky and Annie Rooney</td><td class="tocpage"><a href="#ii251">251</a></td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_1" class="pagenum">[1]</span></p> -<p class="center xxlargefont nobreak" style="margin-bottom:1em">A Pacific Coast Vacation</p> - - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER I<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">AUF WIEDERSEHEN</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Off to see the land of icebergs and glaciers; -the land I have often visited in my imagination. -It seems but yesterday that the first geography -was put into my hands. O, that dear old geography, -the silent companion of my childhood -days.</p> - -<p>The first page to which I opened pictured -an iceberg, with a polar bear walking right up -the perpendicular side, and another bold fellow -sitting on top as serenely as Patience on a monument.</p> - -<p>“What was an iceberg? What were the -bears doing on the ice and what did they eat? -Was that the sun shining over yonder? Why -didn’t it melt the ice and drop the bears into the -sea? No, that was not the sun, it was the<span class="pagenum">[2]</span> -aurora borealis. Aurora? Who was she and -why did she live in that cold, cold country, the -home of Hoder, the gray old god of winter?”</p> - -<p>The phenomenon of the aurora was explained -to us, but to our childish imagination -Aurora ever remained a maiden whose wonderful -hair of rainbow tints lit up the northern -sky.</p> - -<p>We talked of Aurora, we dreamed of -Aurora, and now we are off to see the charming -ice maiden of our childhood fancy.</p> - -<p>Off to Alaska. For years we have dreamed -of it; for days and weeks we have breakfasted -on Rocky Mountain flora, lunched on icebergs -and glaciers and dined on totem poles and Indian -chiefs.</p> - -<p>Much of the charm of travel in any country -comes of the glamour with which fable and -legend have enshrouded its historic places.</p> - -<p>America is rapidly developing a legendary -era. Travel up and down the shores of the -historic Hudson and note her fabled places.</p> - -<p>The “Headless Hessian” still chases timid -“Ichabods” through “Sleepy Hollow.” “Rip -Van Winkle,” the happy-go-lucky fellow, still -stalks the Catskills, gun in hand. The death -light of “Jack Welsh” may be seen on a summer’s<span class="pagenum">[3]</span> -night off the coast of Pond Cove. -“Mother Crew’s” evil spirit haunts Plymouth, -while “Skipper Ireson” floats off Marble -Head in his ill-fated smack.</p> - -<p>With a cloud for a blanket the “Indian -Witch” of the Catskills sits on her mountain -peak sending forth fair weather and foul at her -pleasure, while the pygmies distil their magic -liquor in the valley below.</p> - -<p>“Atlantis” lies fathoms deep in the blue -waters of the Atlantic, and the “Flying Dutchman” -haunts the South Seas.</p> - -<p>We have our Siegfried and our Thor, whom -men call Washington and Franklin. Our -“Hymer” splits rocks and levels mountains -with his devil’s eye, though we call him dynamite.</p> - -<p>Israel Putnam and Daniel Boone may yet live -in history as the Theseus and Perseus of our -heroic age.</p> - -<p>Certainly our country has her myths and her -folk lore.</p> - -<p>In time America, too, will have her saga -book.</p> - -<p>Yonder, Black Hawk, chief of the Sac, Fox, -and Winnebago Indians, made his last stand, -was defeated by General Scott, captured and<span class="pagenum">[4]</span> -carried to Washington and other cities of the -East, where he recognized the power of the nation -to which he had come in contact. Returning -to his people, he advised them that resistance -was useless. The Indians then abandoned -the disputed lands and retired into Iowa.</p> - -<p>Just north of Chicago we passed field after -field yellow with the bloom of mustard. Calling -the porter I asked him what was being grown -yonder. He looked puzzled for a moment, then -his face lighted up with the inspiration of a -happy thought as he replied:</p> - -<p>“That, Madam, is dandelion.”</p> - -<p>“O, thank you; I suppose that they are being -grown for the Chicago market?” said I, knowing -that dandelion greens with the buds in blossom -and full bloom are considered a delicacy -in the city.</p> - -<p>“No, Madam,” answered my porter wise, -“I don’t think them fields is being cultivated -at all.”</p> - -<p>I forebore to point out to him the well kept -fence and the marks of the plow along it, but -brought my field glasses into play and discovered -that the disputed fields had been sown to -oats, but the oats were being smothered out by -the mustard.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[5]</span></p> - -<p>Wisconsin is a beautiful state. Had the -French government cultivated the rich lands of -the Mississippi valley and developed its mineral -resources as urged by Joliet, Wisconsin might -still be a French territory. But all his plans -for colonization were rejected by the government -he served. A map of this country over -which Joliet traveled may be seen in the -Archives de la Marine, Paris, France, to-day.</p> - -<p>The soil is light and farming in Wisconsin -is along different lines from that of her sister -state, Illinois. In every direction great dairy -barns dot the landscape. Corn is grown almost -entirely for fodder. The seasons here are too -short to mature it properly. In planting corn -for fodder it is sown much as are wheat and -oats.</p> - -<p>The principal crops of this great state are -flax, oats, hops, and I might add ice. Large -ice houses are seen on every side. Much of the -country is yet wild. Acres of virgin prairie -just now aglow with wild flowers, take me back -to my childhood, when we spent whole days on -the prairie, “Where the great warm heart of -God beat down in the sunshine and up from the -sod;” where Marguerites and black-eyed -Susans nodded in the golden sunshine, and the<span class="pagenum">[6]</span> -thistle for very joy tossed off her purple bonnet.</p> - -<p>Here and there in northern Illinois and Wisconsin -kettle holes mark the track of the glaciers -that once flowed down from the great névé -fields of Manitoba and the Hudson lake district.</p> - -<p>In traveling across Wisconsin one is reminded -of the time when witches, devils, magicians, -and manitous held sway over the Indian -mind.</p> - -<p>Milwaukee is a name of Indian origin,—Mahn-a-wau-kie, -anglicized into Milwaukee—means -in the language of the Winnebagoes, -rich, beautiful land.</p> - -<p>According to an Indian legend the name comes -from mahn-wau, a root of wonderful medicinal -properties. The healing power of this root, -found only in this locality, was so great that the -Chippewas on Lake Superior would give a -beaver skin for a finger length piece.</p> - -<p>The market place now stands on the site of a -forest-clad hill, which had been consecrated to -the Great Manitou. Here tomahawks were -belted and knives were sheathed. Here the -tribes of all the surrounding country met to -hold the peace dance which preceded the religious -festival. At the close of the religious services<span class="pagenum">[7]</span> -each Indian carried away with him from -the holy hill a memento to worship as an amulet.</p> - -<p>It was the greatest wish, the most passionate -desire of every Indian to be buried at the foot -of this hill on the bank of the Mahn-a-wau-kie.</p> - -<p>Recent investigation has shown that Wisconsin -was the dwelling place of strange tribes -long before the advent of the Indian.</p> - -<p>The Dells of the Wisconsin river was a -favorite resort of the Indian manitous. Yonder -is a chasm fifty feet wide, across which -Black Hawk leaped when fleeing from the -whites. He surely had the aid of the nether -world.</p> - -<p>In this beautiful region, hemmed in by rugged -bowlder cliffs, lies a veritable Sleepy Hollow. -In a dense wood back of the cliff stands -the mythical “lost cabin.” Many have lost -their way searching for it. The strange thing -about it is that they who have once found it -are never able to find it again. Weird stories -are told about it. Its logs are old and strange, -different from the wood of the dark old forest -in which it stands. There are stories afloat that -it is haunted by its former inhabitants, who -move it about from place to place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[8]</span></p> - -<p>At the foot of this rugged cliff lies Devil’s -lake. At the head of this fathomless body of -water is a mound built in the form of an eagle -with wings outspread. Here, no doubt, lies -buried a great chief. Nothing is left in Wisconsin -to-day of the Indian but footprints,—mounds, -graves, legends and myths.</p> - -<p>At Devil’s Lake lived a manitou of wonderful -power. This lake fills the crater of an extinct -volcano. Now this manitou, so the tale -runs, piled up those heavy blocks of stone, -which form the Devil’s Doorway. He also -set up Black Monument and Pedestaled Bowlder -for thrones where he might sit and view -the landscape o’er when on his visits to the -earth. These visits have ceased, since the white -man possesses the country. One day this wonderful -manitou aimed a dart at a bad Indian -and missing him, cleft a huge rock in twain, -which is now known as Cleft Rock. At night, -long ago, he might have been seen sitting on -one of his thrones or peeping out of the Devil’s -Doorway watching the dance of the frost fairies -or gazing at the aurora flaming through the -night.</p> - -<p>Every night at midnight Gitche Manitou appears -in the middle of the lake.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[9]</span></p> - -<p>In days gone by a strange, wild creature, -known as the Red Dwarf, roamed the region of -the great lakes, haunting alike the lives of red -man and white.</p> - -<p>The snake god, the stone god, the witch of -pictured rocks, were-wolves and wizards held -sway in that charméd region where San Souci, -Jean Beaugrand’s famous horse, despite his -hundred years, leaped wall of fort and stockade -at pleasure.</p> - -<div id="ii009" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i009.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">JUNCTION OF THE MISSISSIPPI AND BLACK RIVERS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At LaCrosse we crossed Black river into -Minnesota and shortly after crossed the Mississippi. -LaCrosse, although French, originally, -means a game played by the Indian maidens -on the ice. The heights on either side of the -Mississippi river remind one of the Catskills -along the Hudson. Indeed, the scenery is very -similar. You easily imagine yonder cliffs to be -the palisades. Here, a spur of the Catskills -range and the little valley between might be -Sleepy Hollow. But you miss the historic -places—Washington’s headquarters, Tarrytown, -West Point and others. Like forces produce -like results. When you have seen the -Hudson river and its environs you have seen -the upper Mississippi.</p> - -<p>St. Paul and Minneapolis form the commercial<span class="pagenum">[10]</span> -center of the North. Although the ground -freezes from fifteen to sixteen feet, the concrete -sidewalks and pavements show no effect of the -touch of Jack Frost’s icy fingers. The street-cars -here are larger and heavier than any I -have ever seen. Then, too, they have large -wheels, and that sets them up so high. This is -on account of the snow, which lasts from -Thanksgiving to Easter, good sleighing all the -time.</p> - -<p>The French and Indian have left to this region -a nomenclature peculiarly its own. There -is Bear street and White Bear street. In the -shop windows are displayed headgear marked -Black Bear, White Bear and Red Cloud. There -are on sale Indian dolls, Indian slippers, French -soldier dolls, Red Indian tobacco, showing -the influence still existing of the two peoples. -One sees many French faces and hears that -language quite often on the streets and in the -cars.</p> - -<p>The falls of St. Anthony are at the foot of -Fifth street in Minneapolis. The water does -not come leaping over, but pours over easily -and smoothly in one solid sheet. On either bank -of the river are located the largest flouring -mills in the world. Not a drop of the old Mississippi<span class="pagenum">[11]</span> -that comes sweeping over the falls but -pays tribute in furnishing power for these mills. -Huge iron turbine wheels that twenty men -could not lift are turned as easily as a child -rolls a hoop.</p> - -<div id="ii011" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i011.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FALLS OF SAINT ANTHONY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On the site of these mills long ago were -camped the Dakotas. They had just come -down from another village where one of the -men had married another wife and brought -her along. The woman was stronger than the -savage in wife number one, and when the Indians -broke camp and packed up their canoes -and goods for the journey to the foot of the -falls, the forsaken wife, taking her child, -leaped into a canoe and rowed with a steady -hand down stream toward the falls. Her -husband saw her and called to her, but she -seemed not to hear him and she did not even -turn her head when his comrades joined him -in his cries. On swept the boat, while the -broken-hearted wife sang her death-song. -Presently the falls were reached. The boat -trembled for a moment, then turning sideways, -was dashed to pieces on the rocks below.</p> - -<p>Minnesota was the land of Gitche Manitou -the Mighty and Mudjekeewis. Mackinack was -the home of Hiawatha and old Nokomis. There<span class="pagenum">[12]</span> -Gitche Manitou made Adam and Eve and -placed them in the Indian Garden of Eden. One -day Manitou or Great God made a turtle and -dropped it into Lake Huron. When it came up -with a mouth full of mud, Manitou took the -mud and made the island of Mackinack.</p> - -<p>As we steamed up the Mississippi to the falls -of Minnehaha we had a good view of the bank -swallows in their homes in the sandstone -banks along the river. The action of the air -on sandstone hardens a very thin crust on -the surface, and when this is scraped off one can -easily dig into the bank. The swallows are -geologists enough to know this and hundreds -of them have dug holes in the perpendicular -walls. Here the chattering, noisy little cave-dwellers -fly in and out all day long, flying up -over the cliffs and away in search of food or -resting in the shrubbery which grows in the -water near by. It is a pretty sight to see the -happy little fellows skim the water. It makes -you wish that you, too, had wings.</p> - -<p>At the entrance of Minnehaha park we were -greeted by a merry wood thrush, whose voice -is melodious beyond description. There he sat -on a swaggy limb not ten feet from us. We -were familiar with his biography and recognized<span class="pagenum">[13]</span> -him by his brown and white speckled coat. -We advanced cautiously. We had come six -hundred miles to see him and I think he knew it, -too, for when we were so near that we could -have taken him in our hands he recognized our -presence by nodding his graceful head first this -way, then that, and sang on. We spent some -ten minutes with him, then “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bon voyage</i>” he -sang out as we passed on.</p> - -<div id="ii013" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i013.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FALLS OF MINNEHAHA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Three miles above Minneapolis are the beautiful -falls of Minnehaha, Laughing Water. -These falls are beautiful beyond the power of -my pen to describe. The water does not pour -over, but comes leaping and dancing, like one -great shower of diamonds, pearls, sapphires and -rubies. The vast sheet of water sixty-five feet -high reminds one of a bridal veil decked with -gems and sprinkled with diamond dust.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Where the falls of Minnehaha -</div><div class="indent0">Flash and gleam among the oak trees, -</div><div class="indent0">Laugh and leap into the valley.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>It was here that Hiawatha came courting the -lovely maiden Minnehaha. The falls are surrounded -by a government park. Hurrying along -through glen and dale, looking for the falls, -we met a party of young ladies who were having -a picnic in the park.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[14]</span></p> - -<p>I accosted one of them, “Beg pardon, Mademoiselle, -can you tell me where to find the -falls?”</p> - -<p>She looked astonished for a moment. “The -falls of what?”</p> - -<p>“The falls of Minnehaha.”</p> - -<p>“O, I don’t know; never heard of her,” replied -my maiden fair as she turned and tripped -away.</p> - -<p>It has always seemed so strange to me that -people living near places of interest are oftentimes -ignorant of the fact.</p> - -<p>We next met a youth of some fourteen summers, -who knew the history of St. Paul, Minneapolis -and their environs. He could tell you all -about the big mills, the soldiers, the barracks -and old Fort Snelling. He knew the story of -Minnehaha, too; had been to the falls hundreds -of times, and knew the Song of Hiawatha as -he knew his alphabet. Gitche Manitou had but -to set his foot on the earth and a mighty river -flowed from his tracks. Mudjekeewis was a -great warrior, but Hiawatha was his hero. It -was with genuine regret that we bade good-by -to this interesting youth.</p> - -<div id="ii015" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i015.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">OLD FORT SNELLING.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Our next visit was to old Fort Snelling, three -miles out from St. Paul. This fort was built<span class="pagenum">[15]</span> -in 1820. It is round, two stories high and is -constructed of stone. The old fort, of course, -is not used now. The regular soldiers stationed -here are located in delightful quarters. The -barracks are just beyond the old fort. The -hospital is a large, commodious building of -stone. The parade field is a delightful bit of -rolling prairie. The barracks are quite deserted -now, most of the regiment being in the Philippines. -Only a small detachment of twenty-five -troops remains to take care of the property. -Fort Snelling was the rendezvous of the Chippewas -and the Sioux in the old days of Indian -occupation.</p> - -<p>While the two tribes smoked the pipe of -peace and made protestations of friendship they -might not intermarry.</p> - -<p>At one of these meetings a Sioux brave won -the heart of a Chippewa maiden. Their love -they kept a secret, but when the tribes met again -at old Fort Snelling a quarrel arose among the -young warriors which resulted in the death of -a Sioux.</p> - -<p>The Sioux fell upon the Chippewas with the -cry of extermination.</p> - -<p>In the midst of battle lover and loved one -met, but for a moment. They were swept<span class="pagenum">[16]</span> -apart and the young warrior knew that the fair -maiden lived only in the land of shadows.</p> - -<p>There dwells in the river at the falls of Saint -Anthony a dusky Undine. She was once a -mermaid living in a placid lake, longing for a -soul which the good Manitou finally promised -her upon her marriage with a mortal. The -mortal appeared one day in the form of -a handsome Ottawa brave, and to him -the beautiful mermaid told her tale of -woe. The two were wed. The mermaid -received her soul and the form of a human, but -her new relatives disliked her. They quarreled -over her and at last the Ottawas and the Adirondacks -fought over her, and threw her into -the river. There she lives to this day, thankfully -giving up her soul for the peace and quiet -of a mermaid’s life.</p> - -<p>This is the home of the pine and the birch. -The white melilotus grows rank in the byways -of Minneapolis.</p> - -<div id="ii017" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i017.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ROADWAY, SOLDIER’S BARRACKS, FORT SNELLING.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The horse may not have to go, but the bicycle -has surely come to stay. A unique figure on the -streets of St. Paul is a window washer, black -as the ace of spades, mounted on a wheel. Rags -of all sorts and conditions hang from his -pockets. He carries his brushes aloft <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">a la</i><span class="pagenum">[17]</span> -“Sancho Panza.” He rides up to the curbstone, -dismounts, leans his steed against the -curb, washes his windows and rides away at a -pace that would make Don Quixote’s sleepy -squire open his eyes in amazement.</p> - -<p>A beautiful morning in June finds us aboard -the Great Northern Flyer, bound for the Pacific -coast. We were soon up on the river bluffs. -Here is some fine farming land, the only drawback -being the lack of well water. The geological -formation is entirely different from -that of Indiana and Illinois, where water may -be had on the bluffs as easily as lower down -toward the riverbed. Here the underground -water current lies on a level with the bed of the -river and a well must go down five or six hundred -feet through the bluff before water is obtained.</p> - -<p>Our route here follows the Mississippi, which -in places is jammed with rafts of logs on their -way down to the saw mills. Each log bears -the owner’s mark. One sees many logs, big -fellows worth ten or fifteen dollars, which have -slipped from their rafts and like independent -boys, get lost in all sorts of places.</p> - -<p>George Monte was an Indian lumberman of -the north. He worked at a chute where the logs<span class="pagenum">[18]</span> -were floated down to the river and held back by -a gate until it was time to send them through -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en masse</i>. When all was ready the foreman ordered -the log drivers to open the gate. One -chilly night the order came to open the gate. -The night was dark and the men drew lots to -see who should attempt the dangerous feat. -Monte drew what was to him the fatal slip. -Without a word he opened the door and -passed out into the night. The jam was broken -and the logs passed through, but hours passed -and Monte failed to return. Then his companions -went in search of him. Investigation -showed that the big gate which sank by its own -weight when the pins had been removed, was -held by some obstruction. The object was removed -with long spike-poles and proved to be -the mangled body of Monte. The chute was -soon abandoned, for every night at midnight -his ghost walks the banks. His moans can be -distinctly heard above the swish and lap of the -water.</p> - -<p>On the Coteau des Prairies (side of the -prairies) in Minnesota, pipe-stone, a smooth -clay, from which hundreds of Indians have cut -their pipes, forms a wall two miles long and -thirty feet high. In front of the wall lie five big<span class="pagenum">[19]</span> -bowlders dropped there by the glaciers. Under -these bowlders lies the spirit of a squaw, which -must be propitiated before the stone is cut. This -quarry was neutral ground for all the tribes. -Here knives were sheathed and tomahawks -belted. To this place came the Great Spirit -to kill and eat the buffalo of the prairies. The -thunder bird had her nest here and the clashing -of the iron wings of her young brood created -the storms. Once upon a time, when a snake -crawled into the nest to steal the young thunderers, -Manitou, the Great Spirit, seized a piece -of pipe stone and pressing it into the form of a -man, hurled it at the snake. The clay man -missed the snake and struck the ground. He -turned to stone and there he stood for a thousand -years. He grew to manhood’s stature -and in time another shape, that of a woman, -grew beside him. One day the red pair wandered -away over the plains. From this pair -sprang all the red people.</p> - -<p>From St. Paul to Fargo not a stalk of corn -was to be seen, but there was field after field of -fine wheat. This part of Minnesota is much -more thickly settled than immediately around -St. Paul and Minneapolis. Morehead in Minnesota -and Fargo, across the line in Dakota,<span class="pagenum">[20]</span> -are thriving towns. The country here looks -like Illinois. The lay of the land is the same -and groves and houses dot the landscape. Here -dwelt the Dakota tribes from which the states -of Dakota and Minnesota take their names. -Here came Hiawatha and his bride, Minnehaha, -whom he won at St. Paul when the tribe was -visiting that country, for Minnehaha was a Dakota -girl, you remember.</p> - -<p>Hiawatha’s fight with his father began on -the upper Mississippi and the bowlders found -there were their missiles. Hiawatha fought -against him for many long days before peace -was declared between them.</p> - -<p>The evil Peace Father had slain one of Hiawatha’s -relatives. He engaged him in combat -all the hot day long. They battled to no purpose, -but the next day a woodpecker flew overhead -and cried out, “Your enemy has but one -vulnerable point; shoot at his scalp-lock.” Hiawatha -did this and the Peace Father fell dead. -Taking some of the blood on his finger the -victor touched the woodpecker on the head and -the red mark is seen on every woodpecker to -this day.</p> - -<p>Dakota as well as Wisconsin has her Devil’s -Lake, about which hang many legends, but unlike<span class="pagenum">[21]</span> -that of Wisconsin the Great Spirit, Gitche -Manitou, does not appear in the middle of it -every night at twelve o’clock.</p> - -<p>Indians as well as whites believe in a coming -Messiah. In 1890 a frenzy swept over the -northwest, inspiring the Indians to believe that -the Messiah, who was no less than Hiawatha -himself, and who was to sweep the white people -off the face of the earth, would soon arrive. Dakota -was the meeting ground of the tribes. Sitting -Bull, a Sioux chief, told them in assembly -that he had seen the wonderful Messiah while -hunting in the mountains. He told them that -having lost his way, he followed a star -which led him to a wonderful valley, -where he saw throngs of chiefs long dead, as -they appeared in a spirit dance. Christ was -there, too, and showed him the nail wounds in -his hands and feet and the place where the -spear pierced his side. Then the old rogue returned -to his people and taught them the ghost -dance, which caused the whites so much trouble.</p> - -<p>Dakota is a beautiful state. The land along -the route of the Great Northern railway lies -more level than in Minnesota. The crops are -looking well in this region. There seems to be -but one drawback to farming here and that is the<span class="pagenum">[22]</span> -famous Russian thistle imported a few years -ago. The principal crops are oats, barley and -wheat. Rye bread is plenty and good, too. -Out there on the broad cheek of the Dakota -prairie the weeds are holding high revelry. -Some of the same old weeds we have at home -and many which are new to the writer. Wild -ducks build their nests in the tall grass of the -ponds just as they did in Illinois thirty years -ago.</p> - -<p>At Minot, Dakota, we set our watches to -Mountain time, turning them back one hour. -We arrived at Minot at 11:10 <span class="smcap">P. M.</span>, remained -fifteen minutes and left at 10:25. At 9:15 -o’clock the sun was just sinking in the west. -It does not get dark here, only twilight. -At 10 o’clock the moon came up and we bade -good night to Saturday.</p> - -<p>Sunday we spent in the Bad Lands of Montana. -“Hell with the fires out” is the popular -name given to the Bad Lands in the wild, fearless -nomenclature of the west. It is an ancient -sea bottom. The lower strata is clay and the -one above it is sand. They are wild and rugged -beyond description. The action of the air, -wind and storm have worn them into towers, -citadels and fantastic peaks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[23]</span></p> - -<p>The highly colored scoria rocks crop out -here and there, adding a beauty of their own. -Summer and winter, long before the advent of -the white man the coal mines in this region -were burning. Looking down into the fiery -furnace one may see the white-hot glow of the -coal and the heated rocks glowing with a white -heat. Rattlesnakes wriggle through the short -grass. Quails and grouse fly up and away.</p> - -<p>There is a banshee in the Bad Lands whose -cries chill your blood if you happen to hear her, -which I did not. She is most frequently seen -on a hill south of Watch Dog Butte, in Dakota, -her flowing hair and her long arms tossing in -wild gestures, make a weird picture in the -moonlight. Cattle will not remain near -the butte and cowboys fear the banshee and -her companion, a skeleton that walks -about and haunts the camps in the vicinity. -Leave a violin lying near and he will -seize it and away, playing the most weird -music, but you must not follow him, for he will -lead you into pits and foot falls. The explanation -of all this is the phosphorus found in this -vicinity, which glows in the night air.</p> - -<p>Standing Rock agency is the best known of -our frontier posts. The rock from which the<span class="pagenum">[24]</span> -post takes its name is only about three feet high -and two feet in width. This rock was once a -beautiful Indian bride who starved herself to -death upon her husband marrying a second -wife. After her death the Great Manitou -turned her to stone, and here she stands to this -day.</p> - -<p>Glasgow, Montana, lies in the midst of the -Sioux reservation. Like the Spartans of old, -these warriors of the plains dwell in tents during -a part of every year. Just beyond the -town tepees now dot the landscape where for -a brief space the red man forgets the things -taught him by his white brother and resumes -his old wild ways, but at the approach of winter -he abandons his tent and returns to his log -cabin and to civilization.</p> - -<p>The Indian costume is a mixture of savage -and civilized dress, looking more like that of the -Raggedy Man than any other.</p> - -<p>Blackfoot is a village in the heart of the -Blackfeet reservation, lying just west of that -of the Sioux. These people, like the ancient -Greeks, reverence the butterfly.</p> - -<p>“Ah!” exclaim these red children of nature -when they see one of these Psyches of the prairie -flitting from flower to flower over the green<span class="pagenum">[25]</span> -meadow, “ah, see him now. He is gathering the -dreams which he will bring to us in our sleep.”</p> - -<p>If you see the sign for the butterfly which is -something like a maltese cross painted on a -lodge, you will know that the owner was taught -how to decorate his lodge, in a dream by an -apunni,—butterfly. A Blackfeet woman embroiders -a butterfly on a piece of buckskin and -ties it on her baby’s head when she wishes to -put it to sleep. Wrapped in their blankets the -Indians stood about Blackfoot village as we -came in reminding us of Longfellow’s address -to “Driving Cloud:”</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Wrapt in thy scarlet blanket, I see thee stalk through the city’s -</div><div class="indent0">Narrow and populous street, as once by the margin of rivers -</div><div class="indent0">Stalked those birds unknown which have left to us only their footprints. -</div><div class="indent0">What in a few short years will remain of thy race but footprints? -</div><div class="indent0">How canst thou tread these streets, who hast trod the green turf of the prairies? -</div><div class="indent0">How canst thou breathe this air who hast breathed the sweet air of the mountains?” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>When one has trod the velvety green turf of -the prairies and breathed the sweet air of the -mountains he is quite ready to sympathize with -“Driving Cloud.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[26]</span></p> - -<p>The government schools for the Blackfeet -Indians are located in a valley beyond Blackfoot -village. The schools are conducted exactly -as our public schools are, only that the -Blackfeet children must go to school ten months -in the year. Think of that, boys and girls. -During July and August these dusky redskins -get a vacation, which they spend with their -parents and for the time being return to the -savage state. The agent told me they were always -quite wild upon their return to school -after two months of hunting, fishing and living -in tepees.</p> - -<p>Now and then a fine covey of quails or prairie -chickens flies up and away. How glad they -would make a sportsman’s heart!</p> - -<p>With our glasses we see easily two hundred -miles in this rarefied atmosphere. I discovered -several coyotes running along a ledge in the -Bad Lands that I could not see at all with my -naked eye. The Sweet Grass mountains, sixty -miles away on the Canadian line, loom up so -plainly that they appear to be only two miles -distant. With the aid of the glasses we could -see the vegetation and rocks on the sides of the -mountains quite plainly.</p> - -<p>The United States geological survey reports<span class="pagenum">[27]</span> -Montana the best watered state in the Union. -It has more large rivers than all of the states -west of the Mississippi combined. Milk river -is five hundred miles long. This valley -is one of the finest in Montana. Here irrigation -is a perfect success.</p> - -<p>Here one sees the cowboy in all his picturesqueness. -The saddle is your true seat of empire. -Montana cattle bring a big price in the -Chicago market. The top price paid in 1897 -was five dollars per hundredweight, and was -paid to George Draggs for a shipment from -Valley county. I would almost be willing to -live in the Bad Lands if I might always have -my table supplied with the juicy mountain beef -which we have been eating since we arrived at -St. Paul.</p> - -<p>This is a fine sheep as well as cattle country.</p> - -<p>Montana is not all sage brush, coyotes and -rattlesnakes.</p> - -<p>Montana has according to the report of the -secretary of the interior seventy million acres -of untillable lands. A great portion of this land -can be reclaimed by irrigation.</p> - -<p>We passed the Little Rockies sixty miles to -the north (the distance looked to be only about -two miles). The Bear Paw mountains are<span class="pagenum">[28]</span> -west of these. The Indians are very superstitious -about the mountains. The great spirit, -Manitou, they tell us, broke a hole through the -floor of heaven with a rock and on the spot -where it fell he threw down more rocks, snow -and ice until the pile was so high that he could -step from the summit into heaven.</p> - -<p>After the mountains were completed, Manitou -by running his hands over their rugged -sides, forced up the forests. Then he plucked -some leaves, blew his breath upon them and -gave them a toss in the air and lo they sailed -away in the breezy blue birds. His staff he -turned into beasts and fishes. The earth became -so beautiful he decided to live on it and -starting a fire in Mt. Shasta he burned it out for -a wigwam.</p> - -<p>An interesting part of life on the plains is -the prairie dog and his town, the streets of -which were not laid out by an engineer. Each -dog selects the site of his home to suit his taste. -The houses are about the size of a wagon wheel, -almost perfectly round. As the train whirls -by they sit on top of their houses looking much -like soldiers standing guard. The dogs are -three times as large as a gopher and of a pale -straw color. As one walks toward them, down<span class="pagenum">[29]</span> -they go through the door, but they are very curious -and presently back they come for another -look. They are agile and graceful in movement. -One handsome fellow lay on the projecting -sill of a house basking in the sun. We -approached very near before he saw us. The -flies were annoying him. He shook his head -and blinked his eyes at the flies, paying little -attention to us.</p> - -<p>The wild flowers of Montana are as abundant -and beautiful as those of the Alps, and more -varied. Shooting stars greet the spring. -Dandelions abound but do not reach full -rounded perfection. The common blue larkspur, -however, revels in the cool air and warm -sunshine. The little yellow violet which haunts -the woods in the eastern states makes herself -quite at home here. Blue bells nod and sway in -the breeze, little ragged sun flowers turn their -faces to the sun and mitreworts grow everywhere.</p> - -<p>Along the shady streams wild currants flaunt -their yellow flags while hydrangea, that queen -of flowers, lends a shade to the violets blooming -at her feet. Wild roses strew the ground with -their delicate petals. Stately lilies, their purple -stamens contrasting strangely with their<span class="pagenum">[30]</span> -yellow petals, are abundant. The most dainty -of this fair host is the golden saxifrage, and the -most delicate gold thread, whose dainty, slender -roots resemble nothing so much as threads of -pure gold.</p> - -<p>At Havre, Montana, the Twenty-fourth -United States Infantry came aboard. They -are stalwart colored soldiers who will do credit -to the uniforms they wear. They go to San -Francisco, where they take transports for -Manila. The good-bys at the station between -the soldiers and their friends and relatives were -pathetic indeed. Not one of the brave fellows -but acted a soldier’s part.</p> - -<p>Just as the train was pulling out a handsome -girl ran along one of the cars to the window -calling out to her sweetheart:</p> - -<p>“O, lift me up till I kiss you again.”</p> - -<p>We were glad when two big black hands -came out through the open window and strong -arms clasped the maiden for a moment.</p> - -<p>Every heart beat with the same thought; -how many of these brave men would return -from the deadly Philippines?</p> - -<p>We were proud of the Twenty-fourth when -they bade good-by to their friends at Havre; -we were proud of them when they marched up<span class="pagenum">[31]</span> -the street at Spokane; we are proud of them -still.</p> - -<p>The officers of this regiment are white. -They and their wives came into our car.</p> - -<p>The conversation was enlivened with tales -of camp life. When a private, one officer was -greatly annoyed by the Indians, who came day -after day to sit in the shade of his quarters, -when having been on night duty he wanted to -sleep. He bought a sun-glass and when they -began talking he would sit down at the window -and carelessly with the glass draw a focus on -one of his tormentor’s feet. With a yell -worthy an Indian with the bad spirit after him -he would bound away, followed by his companions. -Soon they would return, when the -glass would be brought into play with the -same effect. At last the Indians came to -believe the house haunted and our captain was -no longer troubled by his red brothers.</p> - -<p>After forty miles of mountain climbing we -reached the summit of the Rockies. At nine -o’clock we were still in the mountains and the -sun was still shining.</p> - -<p>The smallest owl in the world has his home -in these mountains. It is the Pigmy owl, but -you must look sharply if you see him as he flits<span class="pagenum">[32]</span> -from limb to limb and hides in the dense foliage. -The Rocky Mountain blue jay is not -blue at all. His coat is a reddish brown, he -sports a black-crested cap and has black bars on -his wings like his Illinois brothers.</p> - -<p>Flowers, ice, snow and mountain torrents -spread out in one grand panorama. Fleecy -white clouds not much larger than one’s hand -float up and join larger ones at the summit of -the peaks. There is no grander scene on earth -than this range of snow-capped mountains -spread out in mighty panorama, peak after peak -and turret after turret glistening in the golden -sunshine against skies as blue as those of -Italy.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Come up into the mountains—come up into the blue, -</div><div class="indent0">Oh, friend down in the valley, the way is clear for you; -</div><div class="indent0">The path is full of perils, and devious, but your feet -</div><div class="indent0">May safely thread its windings, and reach to my retreat. -</div><div class="indent0">The mountains, oh, the mountains! How all the ambient air -</div><div class="indent0">Bends like a benediction, and all the soul is prayer. -</div><div class="indent0">How blithely on this summit the echoing wind’s refrain -</div><div class="indent0">Invites us to the mountains—God’s eminent domain. -</div><div class="indent0">Oh, soul below in the valley where aspirations rise -</div><div class="indent0">No higher than the plunging of water fowl that flies, -</div><div class="indent0">Come up into the mountains—come up into the blue; -</div><div class="indent0">Leave weary leagues behind you the lowland’s meaner view,<span class="pagenum">[33]</span> -</div><div class="indent0">The autumn’s rotting verdure, the sapless grasses browned, -</div><div class="indent0">Come where the snows are lilies that bloom the whole year round. -</div><div class="indent0">Here in the subtle spirit of all these climbing hills, -</div><div class="indent0">Man may achieve his dreaming, and be the thing he wills.” - -</div><div class="indent9">—<em>Joseph Dana Miller.</em> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>When one has felt the inspiration which the -air of the mountains gives, he feels that he may -achieve his dreaming, may be the thing he -wills.</p> - -<p>Ten o’clock found us going down the western -slope of the Rockies in the twilight. Daylight -comes at two o’clock in the morning. All -along the track over the mountains are stationed -track walkers, who live in little shacks. -Before every train which passes over the road -each walker goes over his section to see that all -is well.</p> - -<p>All the Indians east of the Rockies located -the Happy Hunting Ground west of the mountains -and those west of the divide thought it -was on the eastern side, and that every red -man’s soul would be carried over on a cob-web -float.</p> - -<p>At Spokane we turned our watches back -another hour. We are now in Pacific Coast -time.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_34" class="pagenum">[34]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER II<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">PLENTY OF ROOM</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>There is plenty of room in the great Northwest. -For twenty-five years to come Horace -Greeley’s advice “Go west,” will hold good. -Charles Dickens once said that the typical -American would hesitate to enter heaven unless -assured that he could go farther west. “Go -west.” Surely these are words to conjure -with. “Go west,” thrills the blood of youth -and stirs the blood of age.</p> - -<p>The tide of immigration is turning this way. -No matter what your trade or profession, there -is room for you here.</p> - -<p>Agriculture, the supporting pillar in the temple -of wealth of any nation, stands in the -front rank in Washington and Idaho, the soil -being wonderfully productive. Stock raising, -dairying and fruit farming are carried on with -great success. But the great mining interest -must not be forgotten. The annual rainfall -varies from thirty-five to sixty inches. A<span class="pagenum">[35]</span> -healthful climate meets one in almost every part -of these great states. Malaria is practically unknown. -As to scenery one may have here the -sublime grandeur of Switzerland, the picturesqueness -of the Rhine and the rugged beauty -of Norway.</p> - -<p>The lava beds of eastern Washington are -wild and barren as to rocks, but the soil is very -productive when irrigated. The lava is -burned red in many places. Castle after castle -with drawbridge, turrets and soldiers on -guard, all of solid rock, greet the eye. Column -after column stand hundreds of feet high.</p> - -<div id="ii035" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i035.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ENTERING THE CASCADE RANGE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Cascade mountains surpass the Rockies -in grandeur and ruggedness of scenery. We -crossed on the Switch Back. This is by -“tacking,” as a sailor would say. We had -three engines, mammoth Moguls, one forward, -the other two in the rear. There are -but two engines in the world larger than -these.</p> - -<p>To explain more fully we went back and -forth three times on the side of the mountain -until we reached the summit, then down on the -other side in the same manner. Going up we -made snowballs with one hand and gathered -flowers with the other, tiger lilies, perfect ones<span class="pagenum">[36]</span> -one and one-half inch from tip of petal to petal -on tiny stalks five inches high. Blackberry -vines run on the ground to the summit of the -mountains. They creep along like strawberry -vines. They are in bloom now and the berries -will ripen in time.</p> - -<p>The snowfall last winter on the summit -was one hundred and nine feet. Miles of snowsheds -are built over the road and men are kept -constantly at work keeping the tracks clear of -snow and bowlders. Five huge snow-plows are -required, all working constantly to keep the -sixty-six highest miles clear. The fall of snow -for one day is often four feet. The Great -Northern road is putting a tunnel through the -mountains now, and will thus do away with the -Switch Back. Eight thousand men work in the -shafts night and day. They have been at work -two years and expect to finish in 1901.</p> - -<p>For hours we traveled above the clouds and -at other times we passed through them and -were deluged with rain. Magnificent ferns -grow everywhere on the mountain sides and -towns and villages are to be seen frequently.</p> - -<div id="ii037" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i037.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">LAVA BEDS IN WASHINGTON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Descending the mountains we came to the -Flat Head valley, the scenery of which is wild -and rugged enough to suit the taste of the most<span class="pagenum">[37]</span> -imaginative Indian. The Flat Head river, a -wild, raging, roaring torrent which sweeps -everything before it as it comes leaping down -the mountains, flows peacefully enough in the -valley. Here water nymphs bathe in purple -pools, yonder fairies and fauns dance on the -green.</p> - -<p>On the trees we see such signs as “Smoke -Red Cloud,” “Chew Scalping Knife,” “Drink -Smoky Mountain Whisky,” “Chew Indian -Hatchet,” “Chew Tomahawk,” “Drink White -Bear.”</p> - -<p>Wenatchee valley is famous for its irrigated -fruit farms. A great variety of fruits is grown. -Water is easily and cheaply obtained. Mission -District is another fine fruit valley. The interest -in agriculture is growing. Bees do well -here. If you do not own all the land you want -come west where it is cheap, good and plenty. -The country is rapidly filling up with settlers. -We passed fine wheat lands that stretch away -across the country to Walla Walla. Men are -now coming in to the wheat harvest just as in -Illinois they come to cut broomcorn. But they -are a better looking class of men. One sees no -genuine tramp. There is no room for him -here, there is too much work and he shuns<span class="pagenum">[38]</span> -such districts as one would a smallpox infected -region.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Seattle.</span>—The first white men to explore -this coast was an expedition under command -of Juan de Fuca, a Greek pilot in the service of -the Viceroy of Mexico. They explored the -coast as far north as Vancouver island in 1592. -Two hundred years later Captain George Vancouver, -of the British navy, made extensive explorations -along this same coast. The first overland -expedition was commanded by Lewis and -Clarke. The next was also a military expedition -and was commanded by John C. Fremont. -The first people to settle in the country -were the fur traders. The first mission was -established by Dr. Marcus Whitman at Walla -Walla in 1836. It was Dr. Whitman who rode -to Washington, D. C., leaving here in December, -and informed the government of the conspiracy -of England to drive out all the American -settlers and seize the country. The first -town was Tumwater, founded in 1845 by Michael -Simmons. These are some of the people -who helped make Washington.</p> - -<p>General Sherman said, that God had done -more for Seattle than for any other place in the -world. It is destined to be the Chicago of the<span class="pagenum">[39]</span> -West. The largest saw-mills in the world are -located here. The population is about eighty -thousand and the increase is rapid. The University -of Washington, supported by the state, -is grandly located in Seattle. The Federal -government has a fine military station twelve -miles out of the city.</p> - -<div id="ii039" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i039.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">TANGLE OF WILD FERN IN A WASHINGTON FOREST.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At every turn Indian names meet the eye. -We steamed down the bay on the Skagit Chief -to the city park, where we lunched at the Duramash -restaurant. In the shop windows Umatilla -hats, Black Eagle caps and Ancelline ties -are offered for sale.</p> - -<p>Ancelline was an Indian princess, daughter -of Seattle. Seattle was chief of the Old Man -House Indians. These Indians had a big wigwam -in which the entire tribe lived during the -winter. They called this the Old Man House -and the tribe took its name from this house. -There is but one family of these Indians left.</p> - -<p>The Indians on this side of the mountains -have never received any support from the government. -They are much more industrious -than their red brothers on the other side. There -are many tribes here and many of them are -quite well to do in the way of lands and money. -All talk English but prefer to speak Chinook.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[40]</span></p> - -<p>Nokomis was an old Indian woman who did -laundry work for a family in Seattle with -whom I have become acquainted. Nokomis -was exceedingly stubborn. She would permit -no one to tell her how to wash for had she not -washed in the creeks and rivers all her life? -This old woman was somewhat deaf and when -directions were being given her she could not -possibly hear and continued the work her own -way. But when the mistress would say, “Come -Nokomis, have some coppe (Chinook for coffee) -and muck amuck (Chinook for ‘something -to eat’),” she never failed to hear, -though this was often said in a low tone of voice -to test Nokomis’s ears.</p> - -<p>Wheat in this section easily goes fifty bushels -per acre. The root crops, potatoes, turnips, onions, -carrots, beets and parsnips yield enormously, -with prices fair to good. The -fruits are fine and prices good. Strawberries -sell here now three quarts for twenty-five -cents. The fruits go to Alaska, Canada and -east to Montana and Minnesota. Stock and -poultry do well here and supply eastern markets -at good prices. Another industrial resource in -which many are engaged is fishing. The cod, -halibut, oyster, crab, shrimp, whale and fur<span class="pagenum">[41]</span> -seal yield fine profits. Canned fish go to the -Eastern States, to Europe, Asia and Australia. -The timber, coal, iron, gold and silver industries -are well represented.</p> - -<p>There is one industry that is not represented -here at all, and that is the window-screen industry. -There is but one fly in Seattle; at any rate -I have seen but one. Meat markets and fruit -markets stand open. The temperature has averaged -sixty-two in the shade for several days. -It is quite hot in the sun, however.</p> - -<p>If you are out of a fortune and would like to -make one, come to Washington.</p> - -<div id="ii041" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i041.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MOUNT RAINIER.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mount Rainier is the highest peak of the Cascade -Range and the most beautiful. Though -standing on American soil it bears an English -name, that of Rear Admiral Rainier of the English -navy. The local name was for years Tacoma, -but in 1890 the United States board of -geographic survey decided that Rainier must -stand on all government maps.</p> - -<p>The people of Washington speak lovingly of -this splendid peak which was smoking so -grandly when the Pathfinder found his way -into this country fifty years ago.</p> - -<p>From its summit eight glaciers radiate like -the spokes of a wheel down from which flow<span class="pagenum">[42]</span> -as many rivers. Its ice caverns formed by -sulphur vent holes in the crater, its steam jets, -its moss draped pines, its dainty vines and -hemlocks, its grassy vales, where wild flowers -are swayed by the breath of the glaciers, its -beautiful lilies, remind one of “Aladdin’s” -journey through the wonderful cave in search -of the magic lamp.</p> - -<p>Here blows the heather and the shamrock.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“With a four-leafed clover, a double-leafed ash, and a greentopped seave, -</div><div class="indent0">You may go before the queen’s daughter without asking leave.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>There stands fair Daphne, changed to a laurel -tree.</p> - -<p>In the legends of the Silash Indians Mount -Rainier has always been held as a place of superstitious -regard. It was the refuge of the last -man when the waters of Puget Sound swept inland, -drowning every living thing except one -man. Chased by the waves, he reached the -summit, where he was standing waist deep in -the water when the Tamanous, the god of the -mountain, commanded the waters to recede. -Slowly they receded, but the man had turned -to stone. The Tamanous broke loose one of his -ribs and changing it to a woman, stood it by<span class="pagenum">[43]</span> -his side, then waving his magic wand over the -two, bade them to awake. Joyfully this strange -Adam and Eve passed down the mountain side, -where they made their home on the forested -slopes. These were the first parents of the -Silash Indians.</p> - -<p>In the very center of the Cascade range -stands another mountain of equal beauty, -Mount St. Helens.</p> - -<p>Washington is the home of the genuine sea -serpent. He makes his headquarters in Rock -Lake, where he disports himself in the water, -devouring every living thing that ventures into -it or dares to come on the shore. Only a few -years ago he swallowed an entire band of Indians.</p> - -<p>Expansion seems to be the law of our national -and commercial life. Beyond the placid -Pacific are six hundred million people who -want the things we produce. China and -Japan furnish a market for our wheat. -The cry now is for more ships to carry -our produce to Asia, Australia, to islands -of the Pacific and to Alaska, not to -speak of the Philippines. Manila is the -center of the great Asiatic ports, including those -of British India and Australia. Our trade with<span class="pagenum">[44]</span> -the Orient is growing and Manila will make -a fine distributing depot. These eastern countries -use annually over eighty-six million -dollars’ worth of cotton goods and nearly forty -million dollars’ worth of iron and steel -manufactures. This we can produce in this -country as cheap if not cheaper than in any -other country. Seattle is the best point from -which to export, as the route is shorter than -from San Francisco.</p> - -<p>The battleship Iowa is in dry dock here. I -should liked to have been a marine myself and -have stood behind one of those big guns when -Cervera left the harbor of Santiago. And now -I’d like to train that same gun on the anti-expansionist -and send him to the bottom of the -sea, there to sleep with the Spaniards and other -useless things. Officers and marines alike are -proud of their ship and delighted to explain the -mechanism of the guns.</p> - -<p>We took a steamer over to Tacoma one -morning, where we had the pleasure of seeing -the North Pacific steamship Glenogle, which -had just arrived from Japan, unload her cargo. -She brought two thousand tons of tea, over -two thousand pounds of rice, two thousand and -twelve bails of matting, two hundred and<span class="pagenum">[45]</span> -eighty-six bails of straw braid, one hundred -and thirty-nine cases of porcelain, two hundred -and eighty-five packages of curios, three thousand -packages of bamboo ware, silk goods and -a multitude of small articles made the load. -She had forty Japanese passengers for this port, -and left forty-five at Victoria.</p> - -<div id="ii045" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i045.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">STREET IN TACOMA, WASHINGTON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The air was fragrant with the odor of roses -and beautiful pinks.</p> - -<p>On the street we met a party of Indians in -civilian dress, wearing closely cropped hair -and moustaches.</p> - -<p>Tacoma pays ninety dollars per ton for copper -ore from Alaska.</p> - -<p>Returning across the bay we met a flock of -crows on the flotsam and jetsam which -floats down from the saw-mills. Their antics -reminded me of a party of school boys playing -tag. At the steamer’s approach the leader gave -a warning caw and they were up and away before -the steamer struck their floating playground -and scattered it to the waves.</p> - -<p>At sunset the reflection of the sun-lit clouds -on the waves and the fire and glow of the sparkling -water, now ruby red, changing to turquoise -blues and emerald greens, make a scene delightful -to the eye of one who loves the sea.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_46" class="pagenum">[46]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER III<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">OFF FOR ALASKA</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>“All aboard!” At ten o’clock we steamed -out of the harbor of Seattle and headed toward -Alaska, the land of icebergs, glaciers and gold -fields. Seattle sat as serenely on her terraced -slopes as Rome on her seven hills. The sun -shone bright and clear on the snow-capped peaks -of the Cascades. Mt. Tacoma stood out bold -and clear against the sun-lit sky.</p> - -<p>We steamed at full speed down Admiralty -Inlet.</p> - -<p>At noon we stop at Port Townsend, the port -of entry for Puget sound. One sees at all these -coast towns many Japanese, some dressed in -nobby bicycle costumes, leading their wheels -about the wharves, others wearing neat business -suits and sporting canes. The less fortunate -almond-eyed people are here too, dressed -in the garb of the laborer, but it is to the -former, the padrone, that the American employer -goes for contract labor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[47]</span></p> - -<p>In any case the laborer pays his padrone a -per cent. of his wages.</p> - -<p>It holds true the world over that “some must -follow and some command, though all are made -of clay,” as Longfellow puts it.</p> - -<p>We are soon out on the ocean, where it is all -sea and flood and long Pacific swell.</p> - -<p>All up and down the picturesque shores of -Puget Sound live the Silash Indians, who to-day -dress in American costumes and follow American -pursuits. One sees them on the streets of -the cities and towns. The Silash, like the -ancient Greeks, peopled the unseen world with -spirits. Good and evil genii lived in the forest; -every spring had its Nereid and every tree its -dryad. They believed the Milky Way to be -the path to heaven; so believed the ancient -Greeks.</p> - -<p>One beautiful day there gleamed and danced -in the sunshine a copper canoe of wonderful -design. Down the sound it came. When the -stranger whom it carried had landed he announced -that he had a message for the red man, -and sending for every Silash, he taught them -the law of love. The Indian mind is slow to adjust -itself to new thought. Such ideas were new -and strange to these children of nature. When<span class="pagenum">[48]</span> -this beautiful stranger about whose head the -sun was always shining, told them of the new, -the eternal life in the world beyond, they listened -with deep interest, but the savage was -stronger than the man in the red skins and they -dragged the stranger to a tree, where they -nailed him fast with pegs in his hands and feet, -torturing him as they did their victims of the -devil dance.</p> - -<p>Then they danced around him until the -strange light faded from his beautiful eyes. -Slowly the radiant head dropped and life itself -went out. A great storm arose that shook the -earth to its very center. Great rocks came tearing -down the mountain side. The sun hid his -face for three days.</p> - -<p>They took the body down and laid it away. -On the third day, when the sun burst forth, -the dead man arose and resumed his teaching. -The Indians now declared him a god and believed -in him.</p> - -<p>Year by year the Silash grew more gentle -and less warlike, until of all Indians they became -the most peaceful. My readers will readily -see that this is a confused tale of the Christ.</p> - -<p>Another fantastic tale of this region is that -of an Indian miser who dried salmon and jerked<span class="pagenum">[49]</span> -meat, which he sold for haiqua,—tusk-shells,—the -wampum of the Silash Indians. Like all -misers, the more haiqua he got the more he -wanted.</p> - -<p>One cold winter day he went hunting on the -slopes of Mount Rainier. Every mountain has -its Tamanous, to which travelers and hunters -must pay homage. Now the miser, instead of -paying devotion to the god of the mountain, -only looked at the snow and sighed, “Ah, if it -were only haiqua.”</p> - -<p>Up, up he went, and soon reached the rim -of the volcano’s crater, and hurrying down -the inside of the crater he came to a -rock in the form of a deer’s head. With -desperate energy he flung snow and gravel -about. Presently he came to a smooth, flat -rock; summoning all his strength, he lifted the -rock. Beyond was a wonderful cave where -were stored great quantities of the most beautiful -haiqua his eyes had ever beheld.</p> - -<p>Winding string after string about his body, -until he had all the haiqua he could carry, he -climbed out of the crater and started -down the mountain side. But the Tamanous -was angry. Wrapping himself in a storm -cloud, he pursued the miser, who buffeted<span class="pagenum">[50]</span> -by the wind and blinded by the snow and darkness, -stumbled on, grasping his treasure. The -unseen hands of the god clutched him and tore -strand after strand from his neck.</p> - -<p>The storm lulled a moment, but returned with -renewed energy; the thunder and lightning -increased; again the unseen hands held him in -a vice-like grasp. Strand after strand the -angry god tore from the miser’s grasp, until by -the time he arrived at the timber line but one -strand remained; this he flung aside and hurried -on down the mountain. Not one shell remained -to reward him for his perilous journey. -Weary and foot-sore he fell fainting in the -darkness. When he awoke his hair was -white as the snow on the mountain’s -brow. He looked back at the snow-crowned -peak with never a wish for the treasures -of the Tamanous. When he arrived at his -home an aged woman was there cooking fish. -In her he recognized his wife, who had mourned -him as dead for many long years. He dried -salmon and jerked meat, which he sold for -haiqua, but never again did he brave the Tamanous -of Mount Rainier. Thus ends the -weird tale of Puget Sound.</p> - -<p>Clearing this port, our course lay across the<span class="pagenum">[51]</span> -straits of Juan de Fuca, named for the -Greek explorer before mentioned. The green -slopes of the beautiful San Juan islands now -came into view.</p> - -<p>We landed at Victoria, the capital of the -province of British Columbia, at eight o’clock -in the morning. The city was still wrapt in -slumber. A cow placidly munching grass in -the street, looked at us inquiringly. We met a -dejected looking dog and presently a laborer -going to his work.</p> - -<div id="ii051" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i051.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">PARLIAMENT HOUSE, VICTORIA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A handsome hotel occupies a commanding -site, but the doors were closed. Not a store -was open. The government buildings, naval -station and museum are the only places of interest.</p> - -<p>The Island of Vancouver is composed of -rock and sand. All along the shore are magnificent -sea weeds, ferns and club mosses, growing -fast to the rocky side and the bottom of the sea. -Many of these plants break loose and go floating -about.</p> - -<p>Imagine a perfectly smooth, flexible parsnip, -from twenty to fifty feet long, with leaves of the -same length like those of the horse radish in -form, but the color of sapless, water-soaked -grasses, and you have a kelp. Coming toward<span class="pagenum">[52]</span> -you head on, the long leaves floating back under -it, you have a miniature man-of-war.</p> - -<p>The fortifications for the protection of the -harbor are submerged. You would never suspect -that below that innocent looking daisy -covered surface great guns were ready at a -moment’s notice to blow you and your good -ship to atoms should her actions proclaim her -an enemy.</p> - -<p>Farther up the coast Exquimalt, the most -formidable fortress on the American Continent, -occupies a commanding site.</p> - -<p>We were glad to retrace our steps to the -steamer and shake from off our feet the dust of -that sleepy old town, which never felt a quiver -when “Freedom from her mountain height unfurled -her standard to the air,” and shake off -too that strange feeling which possesses one -when treading a foreign shore.</p> - -<p>All day long Mount Baker of the Cascade -range has stood like an old sentinel, white and -hoary, to point us on our way.</p> - -<p>Fair Haven and New Whatcomb, the terminus -of the Great Northern railway for passenger -traffic, are delightfully located on the -coast. These towns are growing rapidly. The -population is now twelve hundred. The largest<span class="pagenum">[53]</span> -shingle mill in the world is located here. It -turns out half a million shingles every ten -hours. The saw-mill turns out lumber enough -every day to build five ten-room houses, while -a tin can factory turns out a half million cans -a day.</p> - -<p>In time Fair Haven and New Whatcomb will -be two of the most beautiful towns in Washington. -The streets are broad. Green lawns surround -handsome homes and pretty cottages.</p> - -<p>At noon we passed the forty-ninth parallel, -the boundary line between the United States -and the British possessions. What a vast expanse -of territory had been ours had we adhered -to our determination to maintain the fifty-fourth -parallel. “Fifty-four, forty or fight,” -we said, but gave it up without a blow.</p> - -<p>Forty miles across from Vancouver lies the -busy collier town of Nanaimo. The Indians -discovered the coal fifty years ago. On the -knoll near the coal wharves, there is a beautiful -grove of madronas. In the surrounding -forest gigantic ferns and strange wild flowers -grow in great profusion. Berries are plentiful -and game abundant.</p> - -<p>At Cape Mudge we bid farewell to the Silash -tribes. Cape Mudge potlatches are famous for<span class="pagenum">[54]</span> -their extravagance. In 1888 a neighboring -tribe was worth nearly five hundred thousand -dollars. The British Columbia legislature prohibited -potlatches and in one year their wealth -decreased four-fifths. The prohibition of potlatches -quenched their desire to accumulate -property.</p> - -<div id="ii053" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i053.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GORGE OF HOMATHCO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The wild gorge of Homathco is the result of -the relentless glaciers.</p> - -<p>In Jervis Inlet is a great tidal rapid, the roar -of which can be heard for miles. It is considered -the equal of the famous Malstrom and -Salstrom of Norway.</p> - -<p>At Point Robert we pass the last light house -on the American coast. The stars and stripes -floated from the flag staff. With a dash and a -roar the white crested waves tumbled on the -beach. With a last farewell to Old Glory, we -steam ahead and for six hundred miles plow the -British main.</p> - -<div id="ii055" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i055.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">LIGHT HOUSE, POINT ROBERT.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The scenery becomes more wild, savage, -grand and awful. Snow-clad mountains guard -the waterway on either side. Such Oh’s and -Ah’s when some scene of more than usual -grandeur bursts upon our view. A canoe shoots -out from yonder overhanging ledge. The<span class="pagenum">[55]</span> -glasses reveal the occupants to be four Indians -out on a fishing expedition.</p> - -<p>Nearly every one of our three hundred passengers -was interested in the first whale sighted. -“O yonder he goes, a whale;” “O, see him -spout;” “Now look, look!” “Ah, down he -goes.” Then everyone questions everyone else. -“Did you see the whale?” “Did you see our -whale?” “O, we had whales on our side of the -boat,” and adds some one, “They were performing -whales, too.” Then the gong sounds -for dinner and the whale is forgotten in the discussion -of the menu.</p> - -<p>Many of our passengers are bound for Dawson -City, Juneau and other Alaskan points. -One hears much discussion of the dollar, not -the common American dollar, but the Alaskan -dollar, which seems to be more precious as it is -more difficult to obtain.</p> - -<p>Here are young men bound for the frozen -field of gold who could carry a message to -Garcia and never once ask, “Where is he -‘at?’” “Who is he?” or “Why do you want -to send the message, anyway?” Young men -with backbone, muscle and brains, who would -succeed in almost any field.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[56]</span></p> - -<p>From Queen Charlotte’s sound to Cape Calvert -we were out on the Pacific. Old Neptune -tossed us about pretty much as he liked, although -Captain Wallace, who, by the way, is a -genial gentleman and a charming host, assured -us that we had a smooth passage across this arm -of the old ocean. Many suffered from <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mal de -mer</i>.</p> - -<p>Wrapped in furs and rugs, we sit on deck, -enjoying the panorama of sea and sky. Sun-lit -mountains, white with the snows of a thousand -years and green-clad foot hills covered with -pines as thick as the weeds on a common. Here -and there in a wild, dreary nook the glasses revealed -an Indian trapper’s cabin. Here he lives -and hunts and fishes. When he has a sufficient -number of skins he loads his canoe and skims -across the water, it may be eighty or a hundred -miles, to a town, where he trades his furs -and fish for sugar, coffee, tea, and the many -things which he has learned to eat from his -white brother. He is very fond of tea and rum. -He does not bury his dead, but wraps them in -their blankets and lays them on the top of the -ground, that they may the more easily find -their way to the Happy Hunting Ground. -Then he builds a tight board fence five<span class="pagenum">[57]</span> -or six feet high about the lonely grave -and covers it tightly over the top to -keep out the wild animals which roam -the mountain sides. A tall staff rises from the -grave and a white cloth floats from its pinnacle. -We sighted one of these lonely graves on the -top of a small island on our second day out, and -were reminded of that other lonely grave in the -vale of the Land of Moab.</p> - -<div id="ii057" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i057.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FJORDS OF ALASKA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Bella Bella is an Indian town located on -Hunter island. The houses are all two-story -and nicely painted. There is nothing in the -aspect of the town to indicate that it is other -than a white man’s town, though the Indians -who reside here were once the most savage on -the coast. On a smaller island near by is a cemetery. -Small, one-roomed houses are the vaults -in which the bodies are placed after being wrapped -in blankets. Here we saw the first grave -stones. They stand in front of these vaults -and are higher. On them are carved the owner’s -name and his exploits in hunting or war in -picture language.</p> - -<p>The Silash Indians are very gentle and kind. -If you are hungry they will divide their last -crust with you. If you are cold they will give -you their last blanket. They wear civilized<span class="pagenum">[58]</span> -dress, fish and hunt and are quite prosperous. -Many hops are grown in the State of Washington -and in the fall these Indians go down in -their canoes to pick hops. They are preferred -to white pickers, because of their industry and -honesty.</p> - -<p>Saturday night we crossed “Fifty-four forty -or fight” and Sunday morning found us in -Alaska.</p> - -<div id="ii059" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i059.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FISHING HAMLET OF KETCHIKAN.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_59" class="pagenum">[59]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER IV<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">FIRST VIEWS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>We visited the Indian village of Ketchikan. -The Episcopalians have a mission at this place. -The teacher is an able young woman. A young -lady, a handsome half-breed Indian girl, came -upon the wharf to meet someone who came on -the boat. Her carriage, language and manner -were those of a lady. We landed some freight -at this point. The freight agent was a half-breed -Indian, quite good looking and a gentleman.</p> - -<p>New Metlakahtla is a most attractive village -on the Annette Islands.</p> - -<p>The Metlakahtlans are the most progressive -race in Alaska. Mr. Duncan visited the United -States in 1887, enlisting aid for the Indians. -Henry Ward Beecher and Phillips Brooks became -champions of his cause.</p> - -<p>The government at Washington assured Mr. -Duncan that his people would be protected in -any lands which they might select in Alaska.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[60]</span></p> - -<p>In the spring of 1887 four hundred Metlakahtlans -crossed to the Annette Islands.</p> - -<p>These enterprising people print their own -newspaper. They have a photographer. The -silversmiths, woodcarvers and bark weavers do -a large business on tourist days.</p> - -<p>The salmon cannery ships from six to eight -thousand cases a year. There is a government -school and a boarding school for girls. On -steamer days the Indian band plays on a platform -built on the tall stump of a cedar.</p> - -<p>These people, all Christians, have all subscribed -and faithfully live up to a code of rules, -called the Declaration of Residents.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are greatly disturbed over -the discovery of gold on these islands. The -white man discovered the gold and now he -wants the islands. Will the government keep -faith with the Metlakahtlans?</p> - -<p>Now let me tell the boys and girls what our -vessel has down in her hold. Our boat, The -Queen, is three hundred and fifty feet long and -draws twenty-five feet of water, so you see she -has a big hold down below her decks. There -are twenty big steers going to Juneau to be -made into beef; two big gray horses going -to Dawson to work about the mines<span class="pagenum">[61]</span> -in the Klondike and when winter comes to be -killed and dried for meat for dogs, as there will -be no feed for the horses in the Klondike when -winter sets in and the grass dies. A sad fate. -They are gentle horses, poking their noses into -your hand as you pass for an apple, peach or bit -of grain. There are five hundred chickens down -there, too, going to different points in Alaska. -Two little Esquimaux pups, worth one hundred -dollars each, are also here. Their mother, -which was killed by the electric cars at Seattle -the day before we sailed, cost four hundred -dollars. The little curly-haired fellows play -and tumble about very much like kittens, then -suddenly they remember their mother and set -up such a pitiful wail.</p> - -<p>There is also a big, black Husky aboard. He -is a cross between an Indian (not an Esquimaux) -dog and a wolf. He is a big, heavy -fellow, large of head, strong of limb and feet -widened in muscular development wrought in -his race by generations of hard service in this -rugged climate. He is valued at three hundred -and fifty dollars. He will pull three hundred -pounds and travel forty miles a day over ice -and snow, being fed but once a day on dried -fish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[62]</span></p> - -<p>The most curious and by far the handsomest -dog aboard is a Malamute. He is a beautiful -dog. His furry coat is heavy and his fine ears -stand erect. For actions, manners and affection -for his master he is a fine specimen of the canine -tribe. His walk is somewhat of a stride like -that of the bear.</p> - -<p>His owner, who lives in Chicago, is aboard. -He paid three hundred dollars for the dog and -took him home, but it is too warm for him in -Chicago, so he is taking him back to Alaska.</p> - -<p>There are many cases of oranges, lemons, -peaches, apples, apricots and plums and tons of -groceries of all sorts for Skagway, Dawson, -Juneau, Sitka and other Alaskan points. Also -many pounds of dressed beef, mutton, flour, -cornmeal, oatmeal and canned goods. There -are one thousand cases of oil, lots of dry goods -and many miners’ outfits. So you see there is -quite a traffic up and down this coast.</p> - -<p>As we steam steadily on toward the home of -Hoder, the stormy old god of winter, the air -grows colder, the scenery more wild and -strange. Snowclad mountains, sun-lit clouds -resting on their peaks and veiling their sides, -blue sky and sparkling water make a scene -which may be imagined but not described.</p> - -<div id="ii063" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i063.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FORT WRANGEL, ALASKA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[63]</span></p> - -<p>Alaska is the aboriginal name and means -“great country.” It was at the request of -Charles Sumner that the original name was retained. -Seven million two hundred thousand -dollars for a field of stony mountain, icebergs -and glaciers! Had Seward gone mad? Ah, no. -He builded wiser than he knew. Alaska is -nine times the size of the New England States -and cost less than one-half cent per acre.</p> - -<p>The northwest coast of Alaska was discovered -and explored by a Russian expedition under -Behring, in 1741. Russian settlements -were made and the fur trade developed.</p> - -<p>The climate is no colder than at St. Petersburg -and many other parts of Russia. The -warm Japan current sweeps the coast and tempers -the climate. Sitka is only three miles north -of Balmoral, Scotland. The isothermal line -running through Sitka runs through Richmond, -Va., giving both points the same temperature. -The average summer temperature is -fifty-two degrees and the average winter -weather thirty-one degrees above zero.</p> - -<p>The average rainfall at this point is eighty-two -inches. Native grasses and berries grow -plentifully in the valleys. The chief wealth of -the country lies in its forests, fish, fur-bearing<span class="pagenum">[64]</span> -animals and mines. The forest consists of yellow -pine, spruce, larch, fir of great size, cypress -and hemlock. The wild animals include the elk, -deer and bear. The fur-bearing animals are the -fox, wolf, beaver, ermine, otter and squirrel. -Fur-bearing seals inhabit the waters along the -coast. Salmon abound in the rivers.</p> - -<p>It is one of the secrets of the rebellion that -the large sum paid to Russia for Alaska was to -compensate her for the presence of her warships -in our harbor during the early days of the -Civil War, thus helping to prevent English interference.</p> - -<p>Fort Wrangel is delightfully located on the -green slopes of the mountains. It was once a -Russian military post and takes its name from -the Russian governor of Alaska, Baron -Wrangel.</p> - -<p>Here are some fine totem poles. Totemism -is a species of heraldry. Their whales, frogs, -crows, and wolves are no more difficult to understand -than the dragons, griffins, and fleur-de-lis -of European heraldry. The totem pole -of the Alaskan Indian is his crest, his monument. -The totem is his clan name, his god. -He is a crow, a raven, an eagle, a bear, a whale, -or a wolf. It is the old story of Beauty and the<span class="pagenum">[65]</span> -Beast. The beautiful raven maiden may live -happily with her bear husband.</p> - -<p>Every Indian claims kinship with three -totems. The clan totem is the animal from -which the clan descended. There is a totem -common to all the women of the clan. The -men of the clan have a totem and each individual -when he or she arrives at manhood or -womanhood chooses a totem sacred to him or -herself. This totem is his guardian angel and -protects him from danger and harm. The -Alaskan Indian believes the eagle to be the -American man’s totem and the lion and the -unicorn the two totems of the Englishman.</p> - -<p>The civilized races of antiquity all passed -through the totem period. Our Indians all had -their totems as their names indicate, Blackfeet, -Crow and Sioux. Totems are common to all -savage races, but the Alaskan Indian is the only -North American who erects a monument to his -totem.</p> - -<p>While the totem protects the Indian the Indian -is in duty bound to protect his totem. He -may neither kill nor eat his own totem, but he -may with impunity kill the god of another. If -you kill his totem he will be grieved and sorrowfully -ask, “Why you kill him, my brother?”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[66]</span></p> - -<p>These people were evolutionists long before -Darwin. There are no monkeys, however, -among the totems of the Alaskan Indians.</p> - -<p>When an Indian marries he takes his wife’s -name, the name of her clan totem. The children, -too, belong to the mother’s totem, and, of -course, take her name. The wife is the head -of the family, managing it and transacting all -the business.</p> - -<p>These Indians and all the Indians of -southern Alaska are Tlingits. Tlingit means -people. There are many traditions among -them of a supernatural origin; one to the effect -that the crow in whom dwelt the Great Spirit -lived on the Nass River, where he turned two -blades of grass into a man and a woman. This -was the first pair from whom sprang all -Tlingits. They have tales of a migration from -the southeast, the Mars River country. Their -propitiation of evil spirits, their shamanism and -their belief in the transmigration of souls, all -point to Asiatic origin, yet there is no tradition -among them of any such origin. Once, many -thousands of snows ago, a Tlingit stole the sun -and hid it, then nearly all the people died, but -the crow found it and placed it in the sky again. -After this the tribe increased.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[67]</span></p> - -<p>The Tlingit idea of justice is something of a -novelty. The code, however, is short; an eye -for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth, is always -strictly demanded. A Tlingit once shot at a -decoy duck, but he made the owner pay for the -shot used. A young Indian stole a rifle and accidentally -killed himself with it. His relatives -made the owner pay for the dead thief. If a -patient dies under a doctor’s care he pays for -him.</p> - -<p>Before the advent of the white man shamanism -held sway. When a Tlingit fell ill he sent -for his medicine man, who by incantations -cured him, or failing that, accused some one of -bewitching his patient. The wizard or witch -was tortured and put to death, after which the -sick Indian recovered or died, as the case might -be.</p> - -<p>Captain E. C. Merriman, of the U. S. Navy, -destroyed the power of the shaman by rescuing -the accused and punishing the shaman.</p> - -<p>The shaman spends the greater part of his -life in the forest, fasting and receiving inspiration -from his totemic spirits. A concoction -of dried frogs’ legs and sea water give him -power to perceive a man’s soul—the Tlingit -woman had no soul then—escaping from his<span class="pagenum">[68]</span> -body and to catch it and restore it to the -man.</p> - -<p>The Tlingits practiced cremation, but the -body of a shaman was never cremated, it would -not burn. It was always buried in a little box-like -tomb. The body was wrapped in blankets -and placed in a sitting posture, surrounded by -the masks, wands, rattles, and all the paraphernalia -of the office of a shaman, ready for use -in the heaven to which he had gone.</p> - -<p>The missionaries have destroyed faith in the -shaman and broken up the practice of cremation.</p> - -<div id="ii067" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i067.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">CHIEF SHAKE’S HOUSE, FORT WRANGEL.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At Fort Wrangel we called on the chief. He -has the tallest and the most handsomely carved -pole in the Indian village.</p> - -<p>There are three kinds of totem poles. The -family totem pole, which is erected in front of -the home. On it are carved figures representing -the totems of the family, the wife’s totem -always surmounting the pole and the husband’s -next below. Then appear totems of other -members of the family.</p> - -<p>The death totem pole is erected at the grave. -On it are engraved the totems of the dead man’s -ancestors, as well as his own. The third class -of poles are erected to commemorate some remarkable<span class="pagenum">[69]</span> -event in history of the tribe or of the -man. These poles may be seen up and down -the coast from Vancouver to Yakutat.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“And they painted on the grave-posts -</div><div class="indent0">Of the graves yet unforgotten, -</div><div class="indent0">Each his ancestral totem, -</div><div class="indent0">Each the symbol of his household, -</div><div class="indent0">Figures of the bear, the reindeer, -</div><div class="indent0">Of the turtle, crane and beaver.” - -</div><div class="indent8">—<em>Longfellow.</em> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>The fine flower of the native races of the -coast are the Haidas. They are taller and -fairer, with more regular features than any of -the Columbian coast tribes. They are aliens to -the Tlingits, differing from them mentally and -physically, in speech and customs. The Tlingits -call them “people of the sea.” They were the -Norsemen of the Pacific shores; the coppery -Erics and Harolds, who sailed the blue waters -of the Pacific, sweeping the coast, attacking -native villages, Hudson Bay Company posts, -and the settlements of the whites. The harbor -at Seattle was a place of rendezvous.</p> - -<p>The origin of this daring race is a mystery. -They hold many traditions in common with -the Aztec and Zunis of Mexico. Marchand -identifies them with those whom Cortes drove -out of Mexico. Many of their images are similar<span class="pagenum">[70]</span> -to silver relics found in the ruins of Guatemala.</p> - -<p>These people bear a resemblance to the Japanese. -They have Japanese words in their -language; they sit always at their work and cut -towards them in using tools, which are much -like those in use by the Japanese to-day. They -have also many modern Apache words in their -speech, while their picture writing is similar -and in many cases the same as that of the -Zunis.</p> - -<p>Their own legend of their origin runs in this -wise: During a great flood when every living -thing on the earth perished, a few people floated -to the tops of the mountains in canoes, which -they anchored with heavy stones. The water -rose so high, however, that they at last were -drowned.</p> - -<p>The only living thing to survive the flood -was a raven. When the waters had subsided -he flew down to the coast, where the waves -dashing on the rocks sent forth a noise as of -thunder. Presently he heard the cry of babies; -directly a huge shell came rolling in on the -sandy beach. The raven opened it and out came -a strange people. In thankfulness for their deliverance<span class="pagenum">[71]</span> -they have made the raven their clan -totem.</p> - -<p>These people make baskets and mats to-day -exactly like those made by the natives of the -Islands of Polynesia, while their carving, in -which they excel all other tribes of the North, -resembles the sculpture of ancient Egypt.</p> - -<p>Totem poles originated with these people and -spread from them to other tribes with whom -they came in contact. They practiced cremation -and their death totem poles are always -hollow, making a receptacle for the ashes of the -dead.</p> - -<p>The earliest explorers found these people living -in houses built of heavy, hewn logs, and -planks hewn out and neatly mortised. The -houses were covered with a hip roof, supported -by heavy rafters and thatched with an odd sort -of shingle, clipped or hewn out of the logs. On -the plank floors were mats made from a rush -which grows on the islands.</p> - -<p>The old Hydahs were a warlike people, who -were ever waging battle with the fierce Chilkats.</p> - -<div id="ii071" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i071.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ENTERING WRANGEL NARROWS.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_72" class="pagenum">[72]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER V<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">FURTHER GLIMPSES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Wrangel narrows is one of the finest scenic -passages along the coast of Alaska. The magnificent -range of snow-covered mountain peaks, -the green-clad slopes on the shore and the -Stickine delta compose as noble a landscape as -one will see anywhere in the world. The -sunset and sunrise lights in the narrows and on -the snowy, cloud-wreathed mountains are marvelous -pictures of beauty, beyond the power of -pen or brush to portray.</p> - -<p>At low tide broad bands of russet hued algae -border the sea-washed shores. Giant kelp -break loose from their moorings and go floating -about, their yellow fronds and orange heads -contrasting strangely with the intense green of -the water. The Indians say these kelp are the -queues of shipwrecked Chinamen. Many eagles -build their nests in the trees, while myriads of -seagulls skim the water.</p> - -<p>The scenery of the Stickine river is equally<span class="pagenum">[73]</span> -grand. Three hundred glaciers drain their -waters into this river.</p> - -<p>The tourist meets the first tide water glacier -in the Bay of Le Conte. The Stickine Indians -called it Hutli, Thunder Bay. Here, they say, -dwells Hutli, the Thunder Bird. To their -imaginative mind the cracking of the ice and -the noise of the falling icebergs, is the cry of -Hutli, and the roar of the falling water the -flapping of his huge wings.</p> - -<p>In Lapland the guardian spirit of the mountains -is known as Haltios.</p> - -<div id="ii073" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i073.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">DOUGLAS ISLAND, LOOKING TOWARD JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Juneau is located at the foot of Mt. Juneau, -which is more than three thousand feet high. -It is snow-capped and delicious water comes -pouring down the mountain sides. Juneau is -a newly built town and is the largest on the -coast. It has a population of thirty-five -hundred. Just below the town is a village -of Taku Indians. Back of the village are the -grave houses. Here we find totem poles and -Indian offerings to the spirits. Steamers bring -to this wharf fruits and vegetables. Radishes, -lettuce and onions, also rhubarb, look tempting -in the gardens. Juneau is the home of many -miners and prospectors. The chief mining -interest in this vicinity is the Treadwell mines,<span class="pagenum">[74]</span> -located on Douglas island, just across Gastineau -channel from Juneau. The ore runs from -two dollars and twenty cents to four dollars -per ton only, but the water power coming from -the mountains makes the working of the mines -cheap, so that the company is enabled to pay -large dividends. Hundreds of sacks of gold, -nearly free from rock, lay day and night on the -wharves, waiting for the steamers to carry it -away to the stamping mill. On the wharf at -Treadwell lay twenty thousand dollars.</p> - -<p>The mill spoken of is the largest in the world. -It runs eight hundred and eighty stamps day -and night. There is enough ore in sight -to run the mill twenty-four hours a day -for thirty years. The mountains are being -literally blasted down and carted away. -The Indians work in the mines, but they -cannot compete with their Anglo Saxon -brothers, they earning only about half as much. -They will not trust the white man over night, -hence are paid at the close of each day.</p> - -<p>The Indians wear citizens’ clothes and carry -watches. Many of them sport canes when -walking about the streets. The women and -girls do the family washing on the rocks in the -mountain streams. One little black-eyed,<span class="pagenum">[75]</span> -brown-faced witch who said her name was -Troke Lewis, was washing handkerchiefs on a -big rock over which the water poured. She -paused to talk to us, a cake of soap held high in -one hand, while with the other she held her -handkerchiefs down in the cold water on the -rock.</p> - -<p>Just around the cliff, back of Juneau, lies the -beautiful Silver Bow cañon.</p> - -<div id="ii075" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i075.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SILVER BOW CAÑON, JUNEAU.<br /> -By permission of <span class="smcap">F. Laroche</span>, Photographer, Seattle, Washington.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are plenty of fine fish in the bay. Salmon, -trout and eels abound. The writer caught -a trout weighing ten pounds and an eel weighing -one pound.</p> - -<p>Skagway is located on the Lynn canal at the -foot of Mt. Dewey, which rises sheer fifty-five -hundred feet above the sea. The climate -is very mild, the thermometer never -being known to register over six below -zero. A veritable Ganymede sends down -a vast supply of the most delicious water. -Skagway is the coming city of Alaska. -It will be to Alaska what Chicago is to the -Middle Western States, what St. Paul and -Minneapolis are to the Northwest and what -Seattle is to the North Pacific coast. Streets -are being laid out and other improvements are -going on. Log cabins covered with tar paper<span class="pagenum">[76]</span> -are being replaced by more substantial buildings. -People are coming here to stay and the -representative inhabitants of this youthful town -are men and women of refinement and culture -from the Eastern and Middle States.</p> - -<p>At Skagway all sorts of vegetables are growing -in the gardens, lettuce, radishes, onions, -potatoes, cabbage and tomatoes.</p> - -<p>We spent the Fourth of July in this place. -Congressman Warner invited us to join him -and the senatorial party for the day. We went -to the summit of the Selkirk mountains, to the -head of the Yukon River on the White Pass -and Yukon railway, after which the party was -entertained in Skagway.</p> - -<div id="ii077" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i077.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">OLD RUSSIAN COURT HOUSE, JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Observation cars were especially prepared -for the party. These consisted of flat cars -around which run a railing. The seats were -reversable and ran lengthwise of the cars. Thus -you might view the wall of granite along which -you were passing or reverse the seat and behold -the wonderful things to be seen in the pass below, -where the march of Civilization has left -her trail, cabins, mining camps, amidst snow -and flowering mosses, tin cans, cracker boxes; -and last but not least, horses and mules just as<span class="pagenum">[77]</span> -good as when they lay down to their last sleep -in these wilds.</p> - -<p>The run to the summit was made in two -hours. Over the same route men and pack -mules plod along three weeks. Only in places -is there much vegetation on these granite mountains. -Toward the summit blackberries are in -bloom. They are perfect plants only two -inches high, each plant sending out two -or three branches loaded with bloom. Dwarf -pines and tufts of grass grow in the crevices of -the rocks and on the sides of the mountains, -where a little soil has found lodgment.</p> - -<p>The White Pass and Yukon railway, which -was opened in February, now runs trains over -the summit to Lake Bennett. Work is being -pushed rapidly forward to the final destination, -Ft. Selkirk, Northwest Territory. The distance -from Skagway to the summit is sixteen -miles. The road was blasted out of solid granite -all the way and is a wonderful feat of engineering -skill.</p> - -<p>There are the usual curves and loops, but -these are not sufficient to overcome the steep -grade which rises two hundred feet to the mile. -The road rises thirty-two hundred feet in the<span class="pagenum">[78]</span> -sixteen miles. At one place the train was run -up into a ravine on a Y. The engine was uncoupled -and coming in behind us pushed the -coaches up to the summit.</p> - -<p>The ice bridges all through the mountains are -in good repair, the turbulent streams flowing -under them with a dash and a roar of the Selkirk’s -own.</p> - -<p>All along the way to the summit is visible on -the opposite side of the pass, the foot trail of -the Indians. This narrow path lies along the -sheer cliffs, dropping suddenly into deep ravines, -then almost straight up the precipitous -side of the mountain.</p> - -<p>An enterprising company has built a wagon -road to the summit, but a nervous person had -best run his carriage on more level ground. -This road stands on end in many places. It -runs along level enough for a foot or two then -takes a header into a ravine, presently it winds -over a frail bridge which the spuming torrent -below threatens every minute to wreck.</p> - -<div id="ii079" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i079.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">STREET IN JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The wagon relegated the trail to oblivion. -Then came the railroad and travel and commerce -deserted the wagon road. Here they -lie, the foot trail on one side, the wagon way -on the other, and just above the road way, the<span class="pagenum">[79]</span> -railway. Three path ways: that of the untaught, -unskilled Indian, that of the enterprising -pioneer and that of the modern engineer, -traverse this play ground of the Titans.</p> - -<p>At the summit of the mountains Old Glory -waves beside the British flag. Several British -red-coated police are on duty at this point. -They live in one-room frame houses covered -with sail cloth.</p> - -<p>The Yukon river rises at this point and flows -four thousand miles into Behring Sea. Just -now the head is a bank of snow from which we -made snowballs.</p> - -<p>The railroad will shortly be completed to -Lake Bennett. From that point, with the exception -of White Horse rapids, is a clear, unimpeded -water route to Dawson City, in the heart -of the Klondike.</p> - -<p>From the Dawson City <cite>Midnight Sun</cite> we -learn that this metropolis of the Northwest -Territory is quite a busy place.</p> - -<p>Hundreds are leaving for the Cape Nome -country by every steamer, and many are making -the trip in open boats.</p> - -<p>A disastrous fire occurred on the hill back -of Dawson on Wednesday last, when about -forty cabins were destroyed by the blaze. In<span class="pagenum">[80]</span> -many cases the entire contents were destroyed, -while some few were enabled to save their outfits. -The fire caught from a small bonfire -down near the Klondike, and in the first ravine -up that stream. It ran up the hill to the trail, -and then burning down towards the ferry, also -destroyed half the homes on the lower side of -the trail. The loss is estimated to reach about -five thousand dollars, and fell on a class who -could ill afford the loss, some being left absolutely -destitute.</p> - -<p>Scows and boats through from Lake Bennett -began arriving in great numbers the last of the -week, and are continuing to do so.</p> - -<p>Trunks and bandboxes are taking the place -of dunnage bags heretofore brought into the -country. Every steamer is unloading cords of -them.</p> - -<p>Men who during the winter were spending -hundreds of dollars over the gambling tables -are now looking for a chance to work their passage -out.</p> - -<p>The suspicious actions of two strangers over -on Gold Run has caused gold sacks to be -guarded more carefully.</p> - -<p>Two men while poling a boat up the river, -were overturned near the mouth of the Klondike,<span class="pagenum">[81]</span> -losing a valuable kit of tools. The men -were picked up by a boat pushed off from the -river bank.</p> - -<div id="ii081" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i081.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GREEK CHURCH, JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The grand opera house, built by Charles -Meddows, is to be the finest building in Dawson. -It is three stories high. The auditorium -has a seating capacity of two thousand and a -double row of boxes, forty-two in number.</p> - -<p>From present indication Dawson will celebrate -the Fourth of July as it was never before -celebrated. Citizens of Canada are as eager -supporters of this movement as are those of the -States. There was a public mass meeting held -in June at the A. C. warehouse, when there was -about five hundred people present, and an executive -committee appointed. Since then the -different committees have been appointed and -are meeting even better support from all -quarters than expected.</p> - -<p>The foreman of the Gold Hill mine saved -from his washup a thousand dollars’ worth of -handsome nuggets. Over these he kept a jealous -eye continually until last Friday. Between -seven and eight o’clock that evening he went -to a neighboring cabin to bid good-by to Sam -Miller, who was preparing to return to the -States. During his temporary absence some<span class="pagenum">[82]</span> -sneak thief entered the cabin and cutting open -a valise secured the sack of nuggets, but in his -haste overlooked fifteen hundred dollars in dust -lying near by.</p> - -<p>We learn that a responsible firm is organizing -a properly conducted express company, -which will be prepared to carry parcels, gold -dust, and attend to commissions. Thus a long -felt want will be supplied in connection with -Dawson’s dealing with outside points.</p> - -<p>The foreman of the Eldorado is doing -the finest piece of mining yet seen in the Klondike. -A passer by would think that his large -force of men was laying off a baseball ground, -so level is the entire five hundred-foot claim -being stripped for summer sluicing.</p> - -<p>Cards are out announcing the marriage of -two of Dawson’s most prominent young people.</p> - -<p>A beautiful baby girl born over on Bonanza -claim the other day is considered the most -valuable nugget on the claim.</p> - -<div id="ii083" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i083.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">INDIAN CHIEF’S HOUSE, JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Patrick O’Flynn, a prisoner serving a six -months’ sentence, escaped Thursday and has -gone, nobody knows where. He, with other -prisoners, was carrying water from the Yukon -when he bolted among the tents along the river<span class="pagenum">[83]</span> -bank, mingled with the crowd and was lost -sight of. One hundred dollars reward was -promptly offered for information leading to -his capture.</p> - -<p>The Yukon has been steadily rising for the -past week, and the high water mark is not yet -reached. Water is backed up in the Klondike, -overflowing the island.</p> - -<p>This little city came near having a Johnstown -flood last winter. An eye witness thus -describes how the ice went out at Dawson. -The river had been frozen all winter. When a -few warm spring days came, the melting ice -and snow in the mountains sent down immense -volumes of water the strain of which the ice -could not long withstand. All day the people -stood helplessly about discussing the situation. -A flood seemed inevitable; the greater part of -the city was in danger of being swept away; -until three o’clock in the afternoon the situation -was unchanged, the ice gave no evidence -of going.</p> - -<p>Suddenly and almost simultaneously all -along the city front the ice was seen to commence -moving. A steamboat whistled and the -cry went up, “The ice is moving,” and thousands -of spectators rushed to the river bank<span class="pagenum">[84]</span> -just in time to see it go. The dancing masses -of huge pieces of ice weighing tons upon tons, -reared high in the air and tumbling over each -other as they fell, presented a most beautiful -spectacle. At ten o’clock it jammed and -raised the water about three feet, doing no -damage except smashing the wheel of the -steamer Nellie Irving. In ten minutes the jam -broke and the next morning the river, which -the day before was frozen solid across, was entirely -free except for blocks of floating ice from -above.</p> - -<p>Last year ice jammed and, backing the water -up, flooded the town, doing much damage.</p> - -<div id="ii085" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i085.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SUMMIT OF THE SELKIRK RANGE, AT HEAD OF YUKON RIVER. -OLD GLORY WAVES BESIDE THE BRITISH FLAG.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_85" class="pagenum">[85]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VI<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">GOLD FIELDS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The United States Geological Survey has -gathered a volume of information on the subject -of the gold fields of Alaska. The object of -the expedition was to discover the source from -which the gold of the Yukon placer mines was -derived. A belt of auriferous rocks, five hundred -miles long and from fifty to one hundred -wide, runs from the British Territory across -the American line at Forty Mile Creek. It is -the opinion of the Geological Survey that the -gold deposits of Alaska will rival those of -South Africa.</p> - -<p>Returning to Skagway the gentlemen of our -party were entertained at a banquet given by -the members of the Chamber of Commerce, in -their building.</p> - -<p>The ladies were invited by Mrs. Bracket to -her lovely home where a delightful luncheon -was served. The leading ladies of Skagway -were met at the home of our charming hostess<span class="pagenum">[86]</span> -to bid us welcome to their enterprising little -city.</p> - -<p>An employe of the engineering department -of the White Pass and Yukon Railroad -is at the Portland hotel. He came in -from Cariboo Crossing to celebrate the Fourth, -and recuperate from a hard trip up the -Watson river and along the foothills of the -mountains to the Fifty Mile river below White -Horse Rapids. Most of the country through -which the party traveled is entirely new to map -makers and no signs of trails, mess debris, -chopping or other evidences of a previous visitation -could be found. As a consequence a -number of streams and lakes were discovered. -Of the latter some are quite large and are teeming -with large lake trout. The latter were -caught in large numbers by throwing a common -pickerel trotting hook, attached to a line, out -into the lake and hauling it ashore. It was seldom -that a cast failed to land a fish. Artificial -flies had no attraction for them. In appearance -these fish look very much like the mountain -trout of Puget Sound, but are much lighter -in color. The topographer of the party says -they are identical with the trout found in the -Adirondack lake regions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[87]</span></p> - -<p>The head chainman killed a huge brown -bear, which, after being shot, made a furious -charge upon him and was only laid low when -but a few feet away from his slayer.</p> - -<p>The lower lands of this country are almost -entirely devoid of rock. The soil is an ashy -sand patched with powdered limestone stretching -over the country in white patches like alkali -lakes. On the Forty Mile river declivity the -country is cut up with huge pot-holes. Many -of these contain lakes of the purest water, that -gleam in the sunlight in green, azure and dark -blue according to their depths and shades. A -curious peculiarity of these lakes lies in the fact -that their outlets and inlets are subterranean. -They receive their supply from the bottoms -of lakes above and their overflow percolates -through their lower banks to lakes -below.</p> - -<p>The country swarms with ducks, snipe and -other water fowl. It is now the breeding season -and ducks followed by broods of ducklings -may be seen along the edge of every sheet of -water. Much fresh sign of bear, moose, mountain -sheep and cariboo were seen throughout -the country, but the noise attendant upon the -progress of the party along the line of their<span class="pagenum">[88]</span> -journey, gave all the big game a good opportunity -to get out of sight.</p> - -<p>The open coulées and plateaus of this country -are waving with luxuriant bunch-grass, rye-grass -and redtop, but the mosquitoes are in -such untold numbers and so violent in their attacks -that the pack horses of the party were too -worried to receive much benefit in grazing. In -places are woodlands of large spruce and tall -lodge-pole pines, but most of the timber is -scrubby and fit only for fuel.</p> - -<p>No indications of mineral could be seen.</p> - -<p>The night before the Fourth a large flag was -planted on top of Mt. Dewey. The town was -decorated with bunting and flags. Well dressed -people thronged the streets. An oration was -delivered from the grand stand and foot -and horse races lent zest to the sports.</p> - -<p>The town has two fire companies. These -exhibited their hose-carts and ran a race, making -an exhibition of their skill in handling the -hose. Water is plenty, as it comes down the -mountain side in a vast volume from a lake near -the summit of Mt. Dewey and is piped over the -town.</p> - -<div id="ii089" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i089.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">THE SKAGWAY ENCHANTRESS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>While the town looks and is new there was -nothing to distinguish the celebration of the national<span class="pagenum">[89]</span> -holiday from the same day in the States.</p> - -<p>We are now above the line of night. It is as -light as day all night. No light is needed as -one can read at any time of night without it. -The sun scarcely sets in the west until it rises -in the east. At Summit lake, which is at the -top of the mountains, there is no night at all, -it being in latitude sixty north and longitude -one hundred and sixty west.</p> - -<p>The display of the aurora borealis each night -is a scene never to be forgotten. Night after -night the whole northern sky is aflame with a -light akin to sunlight tempered by moonlight -and enriched by the splendor of the rainbow’s -glorious hues. The Tlingit Indians believe the -aurora to be the ghost-dance of dead warriors -who live on the plains of the sky.</p> - -<p>The Skagway enchantress is a figure in stone -high up on the mountain side resembling a -woman. Her flowing garments resemble those -of a stylish Parisian gown. The Indians formerly -crossed the mountains at this point, Chilkat -Pass, but this witch long ago enchanted the -trail, so that it meant death to follow it. The -Indians now turn aside here and follow the -White Pass.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[90]</span></p> - -<p>High above the enchantress’s head a bear, -whose head is plainly visible, stands guard over -her.</p> - -<p>If you look long enough on a moonlight -night you can see the Enchantress move, but -she cannot leave the mountain. She cannot -come down, yet Chilkat Pass remains enchanted.</p> - -<div id="ii091" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i091.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SKAGWAY, SHOWING WHITE PASS.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_91" class="pagenum">[91]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">MUIR GLACIER</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The sun shone bright and warm, but a cold -wave swept over the glacier. It was the beautiful -Muir glacier.</p> - -<p>We left the steamer in a little boat and were -rowed to the shore, landing on the sandy beach. -High on the sand lay an Indian canoe, a dug-out. -Near by a party of Indians wrapped in -their scarlet blankets squatted on the sand. -They had come to meet the steamer and sell -their toys, baskets and slippers.</p> - -<p>A little black eyed boy had a half dozen young -seagulls, in a basket, great awkward squabs. -Their coats were a dirty fuzzy down like that -of a gosling, sprinkled over with black dots. -Their big hungry mouths and frowsy coats -gave no hint of the beautiful birds they would -be when they grew up.</p> - -<p>When I paused to look at the birds their -owner regarded me with interest as he sat with -the basket hugged to his breast. Then the<span class="pagenum">[92]</span> -young merchant held one up for my inspection, -with the remark, “hees nice bird.”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” said I, “hees very nice.” I had no -thought of buying a seagull. What would I do -with it? Then I remembered a little invalid -boy whom I thought might be pleased with a -pet seagull.</p> - -<p>“How much you give?” inquired my little -Indian boy.</p> - -<p>“How much will you take?”</p> - -<p>“Two bits.”</p> - -<p>So, I paid down my two bits and picked up -my baby seagull. Then my little merchant -spoke up, “Him want basket?”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” I said, “I think that I want a basket.”</p> - -<p>The basket was paid for and my enterprising -little Indian tucked the baby gull in with a wisp -of sea weed and handed him to me with the remark, -“Him all right now.”</p> - -<p>How that gull did squawk when he found -himself all alone in a big basket. What cared -he that I had purchased for him the prettiest -basket on the beach? He wanted his brothers. -When we arrived on the deck of the steamer -I hurried my gull down to the steward and -gained admission for him to the cook’s department,<span class="pagenum">[93]</span> -where he was cared for the remainder -of the voyage.</p> - -<div id="ii093" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i093.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MUIR GLACIER (SECTION OF).</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is something of a novelty to be seated at -the base of a glacier in July. From the Chilkoot -to the source of the Yukon river is only -thirty-five miles, but the intervening mountain -chain is several thousand feet high and bears -numerous glaciers on its seaward side. Forty -miles west of Lynn canal and separated from it -by a low range of mountains is Glacier bay, and -at the head of one of its inlets is the far-famed -Muir glacier. It is one of the many fields of -ice which stellates from a center fifteen miles -back of the Muir front and covers the valley of -the mountains between the Pacific and the -headwaters of the Yukon river. Nine glaciers -now discharge icebergs into the bay. All of -these glaciers have receded from one to four -miles in the past twenty years. Kate Field -says, “In Switzerland a glacier is a vast bed of -dirty air-holed ice that has fastened itself like -a cold porous plaster to the Alps. In Alaska -a glacier is a wonderful torrent that seems to -have been frozen when about to plunge into the -sea.” There they lay, almost free from debris, -clear and gleaming in the cold sunshine of -Alaska. The most beautiful of them all is the<span class="pagenum">[94]</span> -Muir glacier. It is named in honor of John -Muir, who visited Alaska in company with Mr. -Young, the Presbyterian missionary, in 1879, -and discovered it. This glacier extends straight -across the fiord, presenting at tide water a perpendicular -wall two hundred to four hundred -feet above and seven hundred and fifty feet below -the surface, making a solid wall of ice a -thousand feet high and three miles wide.</p> - -<p>I cannot do better than to give Prof. Muir’s -own description of this wonderful <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mer de glace</i>: -“The front and brow of the glacier were dashed -and sculptured into a maze of yawning chasms, -ravines, cañons, crevasses, and a bewildering -chaos of architectural forms, beautiful beyond -description, and so bewildering in their beauty -as to almost make the spectator believe he is -reveling in a dream. There were great clusters -of glistening spires, gables, obelisks, monoliths, -and castles, standing out boldly against the sky, -with bastion and mural surmounted by fretted -cornice and every interstice and chasm reflecting -a sheen of scintillating light and deep blue -shadow, making a combination of color, dazzling, -startling and enchanting.”</p> - -<p>This is nature’s iceberg factory. The “calving” -of a berg is a wonderful sight and one<span class="pagenum">[95]</span> -never to be forgotten. Avalanches and great -blocks of crumbling ice are continually falling -with a crash and roar into the sea, while spray -dashes high and great waves roll along the wall -of the glacier, washing the blocks of floating ice -upon the sandy beach on either side of the great -ice-wall. The great buttresses on either side -as they rise from the sea are solid white, veined -and streaked with mud and rocks, but farther -in near the middle of the wall the color changes -to turquoise and sapphire blues, blended with -the changeable greens of the sea.</p> - -<p>The upper strata of a glacier moves faster -than the lower and is constantly being pushed -forward, producing a perpendicular and at -times projecting front. A piece of the projecting -front breaks off and falls with a heavy -splash into the water, then up it comes almost -white. Now a piece breaks from the lower and -older strata and comes up a dazzling green. -Again a deafening roar as of artillery and a -huge piece of ice splits off from top to bottom of -the sea wall and goes plunging and raving like -a great lion to the bottom of the sea, then up it -comes slowly, a berg of dazzling rainbow hues. -Such a one, as big as all the business houses in a -village, floated toward the beach and the outgoing<span class="pagenum">[96]</span> -tide left it stranded there. We ate a -piece of it, ice thousands of years old, and drank -water from a cup or pocket in its side.</p> - -<p>The beach is strewn with rock, pebbles and -bowlders carved by the icy hand of the glacier. -Along the beach near the glacier, just above -high tide, in the rocks and sand grow lagoon -grass, laurel and beautiful clarkias. These brilliant -purple flowers are named for Prof. Clarke, -who first studied and classified them. They -are sweet scented and belong to the evening -primrose family.</p> - -<p>The Tlingit Indians believe that mountains -were once living creatures and that the glaciers -are their children. These parents hold them in -their arms, dip their feet into the sea, then cover -them with snow in the winter and scatter rocks -and sand over them in summer. These Indians -dread the cold and always speak the name -Sith, the ice god, in a whisper. They -have no fear of a hades such as ours. To them -hell is a place of everlasting cold. The chill of -the ice god’s breath is death. He freezes rivers -into glaciers and when angry heaves down the -bergs and crushes canoes. When summer -comes the ice spirit sleeps, but the Indians speak<span class="pagenum">[97]</span> -in whispers and never touch the icebergs with -their canoe paddles for fear of awaking him.</p> - -<p>Once upon a time glaciers plowed over Illinois. -Manitoba and Hudson Bay were then -great snow and ice fields, down from which -swept the glaciers over the United States south -to the Ohio river. Great rocks and bowlders -were carried along and deposited here and there -on the broad prairies. Many of these rocks and -bowlders may still be seen in central Illinois, -still bearing the marks of the glacial slide.</p> - -<p>An odd old character in our neighborhood -used to tell us children that those big flattened -bowlders were left there for the good people to -stand on when the world should be burned up. -“Would they get hot?” we asked. “Oh, how -could they when they had lain years in the -heart of a glacier?” To all of our questions -as to how he knew he always turned a deaf -ear.</p> - -<p>Our sailors rowed out and with ropes captured -an iceberg which they said would weigh -five tons and with rope and tackle hauled it -aboard and put it down in the hold. Then they -captured a second one not quite so large and -after it was safely stored away we weighed anchor<span class="pagenum">[98]</span> -and steamed out of the beautiful bay, -afloat with icebergs, many of them being larger -above water than our ship. But one disappointment -met me, not a polar bear was in sight.</p> - -<p>A nunatak is an area of fertile land surrounded -by ice. One of the finest on the Alaskan -coast is Blossom island. It is quite a large -tract of rich land covered with forest and -brilliant flowers.</p> - -<p>When Mr. Young (before mentioned) was -missionary to the Hoonah Indians they appealed -to him to pray to God to keep the glaciers -from cutting down the trees on the bays -putting into Cross sound. They said their medicine -man had advised them to offer as a sacrifice -two of their slaves to the ice god, but this -they had done without any effect. They were -greatly disappointed when Mr. Young told -them that he could do nothing to prevent the -glaciers destroying their forests.</p> - -<div id="ii099" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i099.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GREEK CHURCH, KILLISNOO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Passing Cross strait we go down Chatham -strait. Our next stop is Killisnoo, a small -fishing hamlet on Admiralty island. The -largest cod liver oil factory in the world is located -here. The Northwest Trading Company -established a fishing post here in 1880. Chatham -strait is full of cod. The fish are artificially<span class="pagenum">[99]</span> -dried. The natives receive two cents -apiece for a five-pound fish. Many fish are -packed in salt. Our steamer took on many -hundred pounds of dried and packed fish. Cod -liver oil is made in the factory. Each barrel -of fish when pressed yields three quarts of oil -valued at twenty-five cents to thirty-five cents -per gallon. The refuse of fifty barrels of fish -when dried and powdered yields one ton of -guano worth thirty dollars. This is shipped to -the fruit ranches of California and the sugar -plantations of the Hawaiian islands. Great -vats of oil stand in rows under the shed of the -factory.</p> - -<p>There is a little fish here called the candle -fish. It is almost all oil. For a light the natives -impale this fish on a stick and light the -fish. It burns with a sizzle and sputter but -makes a good light.</p> - -<p>This is a beautiful island. The gardens are -now at their best. Everything grows luxuriantly. -Fine strawberries, currants and gooseberries -are grown. Beds of royal purple and -golden pansies in dewy splendor adorn the -yards and gardens, great broad faced beauties -measuring from two to two and a half inches -across.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[100]</span></p> - -<p>Here we met our first Alaskan mosquito. -He is about the size of our glow flies. His bite -is something to remember. It leaves a miniature -snow capped mountain on your face.</p> - -<p>The Indians say that once upon a time, many -thousand of snows ago, he was a giant spider, -but a wicked manitou tossed him into the fire -one day where he shriveled up to his present -size. The bad manitou thought him dead -but when the fire burned low he escaped and -flew away with a live coal in his mouth which -he carries to this day. Since he could not be -revenged on the manitou he takes his vengeance -out on man.</p> - -<p>Arachne, fair mortal, at Minerva’s fateful -touch shrank and shriveled into a spider.</p> - -<p>The student of Indian myths will be impressed -before he carries his researches very -far, with the likeness of many of these legends -to the mythologies of the old world.</p> - -<div id="ii101" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i101.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">KITCHNATTI.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>These Indians, the Kootznahoos, claim to -have come from over the seas. They deny any -relation with the Tlingits. They were the first -Indians to distill hoochinoo, which carries more -fight and warwhoop to the drop than any other -liquor known. It is made from a mash of yeast -and molasses, thickened with a little flour.<span class="pagenum">[101]</span> -They were great fighters and murdered the -traders as soon as the Russians left. In 1869 -Commander Mead shelled the village and took -Kitchnatti prisoner. He was taken to Mare -Island, California, and confined for a year. -The tribe now numbers only five hundred -souls. They are a peaceable people and -follow fishing for a livelihood. Many of -them are employed in the fish factory on the -island. Kitchnatti is still the recognized -chief, and is very proud of his position. -He meets all the steamers coming in and -is delighted to meet the officers of the vessels, -all of whom are kind to him. He is quite vain -in his dress, wearing a silk hat, long coat, black -pantaloons and slippers. He also sports a cane, -which is a sheathed sword. He claims descent -from ancestry as old as “yonder granite mountain” -which stands across the strait. His state -dress consists of a crown made of goat horns -and a tunic made of red felt trimmed with fur. -Over his door he has posted his escutcheon, -which some one has translated for him into -English. It reads, “By the governor’s permission -and the company’s commission I am made -the Grand Tyhee of this entire illabee.”</p> - -<p>On a green slope stands a Greek church, established<span class="pagenum">[102]</span> -by the Russian government. The -priest lives in a tiny cottage next door.</p> - -<p>At the wharf a dozen little Indian boys, -dressed in sweaters and overalls, displayed -much energy and skill in helping to unload the -freight which was landed at this point. The -first officer gave them fifty cents apiece when -the work was completed and away they went -to spend it, American boy like, at the candy -store.</p> - -<p>One of the most interesting things that I saw -in the village was a little papoose taking his -bath in a big dishpan on the front veranda. -He did not like it at all and kicked and screamed -but his mother without a word proceeded with -the bathing.</p> - -<p>Just off Killisnoo the steamer anchored several -hours to give the passengers an opportunity -to try deep-sea fishing. Some fine halibut were -brought aboard. Then we weighed anchor -and steamed toward the old town of Sitka. -This ancient capital of the Romanoffs is the -seat of the territorial government of Alaska. -A strong effort is being made by the mining -interest of Juneau to move it to that point.</p> - -<div id="ii103" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i103.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SITKA.—SOLDIERS’ BARRACKS, OLD RUSSIAN WAREHOUSE AND GREEK CHURCH ON THE RIGHT, -INDIAN VILLAGE ON THE LEFT, RUSSIAN BLOCKHOUSES BEYOND AND -MISSION SCHOOLS IN THE DISTANCE.<br /> -By permission of <span class="smcap">F. Laroche</span>, Photographer, Seattle, Washington.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_103" class="pagenum">[103]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VIII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">SITKA</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Sitka is beautifully located at the foot of the -mountains and commands a fine view seaward. -The streets are not regularly laid out. Everyone -appears to have chosen the site that pleased -him best, regardless of his neighbors. Many of -the buildings are old. At every turn one is -made aware of Russian architecture. Several -blocks from the wharf and directly in the middle -of the street stands the Russian orthodox -church of St. Michaels. The interior is richly -decorated. Many rich paintings adorn the -walls. A handsome brass chandelier hangs -from the ceiling. Massive brass candlesticks -stand on either side of the door. The interior -is finished in white and gold, and the inner -sanctuary where women may not enter is separated -from the church proper by fine bronze -doors.</p> - -<p>The Sitka Mission and Industrial School was -established by the Presbyterian board in 1878.<span class="pagenum">[104]</span> -There are now enrolled sixty-four boys and -forty-six girls. School continues nine months -of the year. The boys and girls occupy separate -buildings. The forenoon the pupils spend -in the school rooms and the afternoons the girls -spend in the sewing room and the boys in the -shops. The superintendent called a bright boy -about twelve years of age and asked him if he -could show me about the grounds and through -the workshops while he conducted a larger -party in a different direction. “Yes sir,” and -with a touch of his cap to me, led the way to the -carpenter shop. Two young men busy at work -at a long bench touched their caps and a “Good -afternoon, madam,” greeted me. “Yes madam, -I am a carpenter,” proudly replied one of the -young men to my question. He was about -eighteen years old, while his companion was -only sixteen. In this shop the pupils make tables, -chairs and all sorts of furniture. I was -next conducted to the tin shop, where besides -pots and pans, stoves are made out of sheet iron -and scraps of any old thing that is left over. -All of the stoves in the school buildings are -made in this way. My young Indian guide -next conducted me to the shoe shop.</p> - -<div id="ii105" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i105.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">INDIAN AVENUE, SITKA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The schools are having vacation now, so the<span class="pagenum">[105]</span> -shops are not running a full number of pupils. -The conductor and two pupils were at work, -the former on fine shoes and the latter on heavy -Klondike boots. Each boy has his own cobbler’s -bench and a full set of tools. A third -boy was sauntering about the room making -himself familiar with his surroundings. The -conductor of the shop told me that this lad had -chosen the shoe maker’s trade and was to begin -work on the following morning.</p> - -<p>The boys all greeted me with a smile -of welcome when I entered and bade me -good-by when I departed. My guide said -that the paint shop was closed, but he explained -to me the object of the shop and -the work done there. When I asked him -if he had chosen his trade he politely explained -that he had only been in the school a -year and that he had not decided what he would -like. The pupils enter for five years, the parents -or guardian signing a contract to that effect. -My guide conducted me to the gate, -where I thanked him for his kindness. He -gracefully touched his cap and said: “Good-by -madam, I was glad to show you about.”</p> - -<p>All of the dormitories, play rooms and -school rooms are models of neatness. In the<span class="pagenum">[106]</span> -girls’ building the bread was just being taken -out of the bake oven. Thirty loaves was the -day’s baking. The boys make the bread and -put it to rise. The girls mould it out and bake -it. The Indians are very proud of the school -and come of their own accord seeking admission -for their children. This school is making -these Indians self-supporting and consequently -prosperous. One sees many bright faces among -them and the younger people are happy and -contented, with nothing in their dress or manner -to distinguish them from young white -Americans of the same age. In an old blockhouse -located on a rocky prominence overlooking -the sea some of the boys of the school spend -the evening hours in band practice. They -played until eleven o’clock on the parade -ground without a light, reading their music by -twilight. The selections were choice and well -rendered. They played “Star Spangled Banner” -as an opening piece. Sitka is rightfully -proud of her Indian band. The Indian is -given his chance in this land of the midnight -sun and he is making the most of his opportunities.</p> - -<div id="ii107" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i107.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">BLOCKHOUSE ON BANK OF INDIAN RIVER, SITKA, ALASKA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Opposite the Mission on the bank of the Indian -River is a large square rock called the<span class="pagenum">[107]</span> -Blarney-stone, which dowers the kisser with a -magic tongue, but never a four leafed shamrock -in all the merry dell with which to weave a -magic spell.</p> - -<p>The Sitkans, like all native races have a -mythical legend as to their origin.</p> - -<p>Two brothers, twins, lived in paradise. One -of them ate a sea cucumber. It was the -one forbidden fruit. The paradise became a -wilderness. The brothers were starving when a -band of roving Stickines came that way one day -and pitying them left them wives to care for -them.</p> - -<p>From one of these pairs sprang all the Kaksatti, -the Crow clan. From the other descended -all the Kokwantons, the Wolf clan.</p> - -<p>The legends of these Indians as well as all -other tribes in this country, contain a full account -of the landing of Columbus. The news -was carried overland from post to post and tribe -to tribe by runners. The history of the tribe -at Sitka runs back five hundred years. Beyond -that period they have no record and frankly -say that they have no authentic account of their -origin.</p> - -<p>Their stature, their industry, their faith in -the shaman, their belief in transmigration of<span class="pagenum">[108]</span> -souls, all point to Asiatic origin. Their word -for water is agua, much like the Latin aqua.</p> - -<p>The Mission and Training schools have -transformed these savages, whose ancestors -murdered the intrepid Muscovites, into frontier -fishermen, boatmen and loggers.</p> - -<p>An Indian never willingly consents to have -his photograph taken, because, when you have -a picture of him, he firmly believes that you have -power over his soul. The educated Indian, -however, is fearless of the camera.</p> - -<p>The Kletwantans and the Klukwahuttes, two -branches of the Frog clan, are at variance over -the erection of a totem pole and have gone into -court to settle the matter. The Klukwahuttes -are the true aristocrats of Indian society in -Sitka. The Kletwantons are the wealthy members -of the real Indian four hundred, but having -made their money in fish and oil, are considered -upstarts by their more aristocratic brothers. -The Kletwantons decided to build a new home -for the chief and to set up an elaborately carved -and decorated totem pole. The eyes of the frog -which was to surmount this wonderful pole -were to be twenty-dollar gold pieces. A grand -potlatch was to be held when the pole was ready -to set up. All of the Indians up and down the<span class="pagenum">[109]</span> -coast, from Juneau, Killisnoo, Skagway, Ft. -Wrangel and Bella Bella, were invited, but the -aristocratic Klukwahuttes were left out. Did -they sit down and quietly ignore this insult? -No indeed. They told their wealthy brothers -in true American style what they thought of -such conduct, and the matter would, no doubt, -have been dropped here had not the wealthy -fish oil makers denied that the Klukwahuttes -belonged to the Frog clan at all. Upon -this things grew so warm that the missionary -appealed to the district attorney to aid him in -making the Indians keep the peace. Then the -disgusted Klukwahuttes went to him asking for -an injunction to keep the pretended Frogs from -holding the potlatch and setting up the pole. -He replied to them that he would take the case -upon them paying him a retainer of five hundred -dollars, feeling sure that would end the -matter, well knowing that they could not raise -the money. Petitioned again he reduced his -fee to two hundred and fifty dollars, feeling -quite sure that they could not raise even that -amount. But he reckoned without his host. In -less than two hours the leading men of the -Klukwahuttes filed into his office, carrying goat -skin bags and pouches filled with money and<span class="pagenum">[110]</span> -counted out the two hundred and fifty dollars -in small coins, no coin being larger than -a fifty-cent piece. The attorney was obliged -to keep his word and take the case. The injunction -was issued restraining the oil makers -from building the house and setting up the -totem pole. The potlatch, however, was held.</p> - -<p>When the Juneau Indians arrived in their -canoes off the shore the chief stood up and -chanted their traditions to prove that they belonged -to the Frog clan and were rightfully invited. -When he had finished the leaders of the -Klukwahuttes, who were standing on the beach, -recited their traditions to prove that they and -not the Kletwantans were the true Frogs. The -Klukwahuttes, however, made no disturbance -during the feast. Later the Kletwantans employed -a young Boston lawyer who was stopping -at Sitka and sued the Klukwahuttes for -damages. Not wishing to be outdone by the aristocratic -Klukwahuttes, they at once paid their -lawyer a retainer of two hundred and fifty dollars. -There the case rests. The lawyers are -trying to settle it out of court.</p> - -<p>On an eminence which commands a fine view -of the harbor and the town, stood the Baranhoff -castle, which was burned a few years ago. It<span class="pagenum">[111]</span> -did not in the least resemble a castle. The picture -makes it look like an old country inn. The -ruins are still visible and the two flights of steps -leading to it still exist. Around this historic -ground cluster the scenes and incidents of the -past century. The castle, like the island on -which it stood, took its name from the Russian -governor, Baranhoff, who in the early part of -the century ruled the people with an iron hand, -beginning with the knout and ending with the -ax.</p> - -<p>Not one of the intrepid Muscovites who -landed here in 1741 were left to tell the tale of -their capture and execution by the native Sitkans. -In 1800 another party arrived and placed -themselves under the protection of the Archangel -Gabriel instead of trusting to the power -of gunpowder and stockades. They too were -massacred and their homes destroyed by fire. -Baranhoff was at once sent out by the Russian -government. He erected the castle and stockade, -withdrew the town from the protection of -Gabriel and placed it under the protection of the -Archangel Michael.</p> - -<p>This old castle was once the home of nobility -and the scene of grand festivities. Here -princes and princesses of the blood royal ate<span class="pagenum">[112]</span> -their caviare, quaffed their vodka and measured -a minuet. It was in this old castle that -Lady Franklin spent three weeks twenty-five -years ago when in search of her husband, Sir -John. It was here that W. H. Seward spent -several days when on a trip to Alaska after its -purchase from Russia, through the sagacity of -himself and Charles Sumner. At one of the -windows sat the beautiful Princess Maksoutoff -weeping bitter tears as the Russian flag -was lowered for the last time. On the -18th of October, 1867, three United States -warships lay at anchor in the bay. They -were the Ossipee, Resaca and Jamestown, -commanded by Captains Emmons, -Bradford and McDougal. Each vessel was -dressed in the national colors, while the Russian -soldiers, citizens and Indians assembled upon -the open space at the foot of the castle carrying -aloft the eagle of the czar of all the Russias. -At a given signal the American navy fired a -salute in honor of the Russian flag, which was -lowered from the staff on the castle. After a -national salute from the Russian garrison in -honor of our flag, the stars and stripes were -hoisted to the top of the old flag staff.</p> - -<p>The Russian parade ground has been converted<span class="pagenum">[113]</span> -into a base ball ground, where Indian -and white teams contest for honors.</p> - -<p>The native races of Alaska are slowly dying -out. The bright light of civilization is always -the death doom of savagism.</p> - -<div id="ii113" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i113.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">RAPIDS, INDIAN RIVER, SITKA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The most beautiful natural park in the world -lies just above Sitka, on the banks of the Indian -River, which rises in the valley between the -mountains and winding down, empties into the -sea.</p> - -<p>Here are the greenest of pines, cedars and -firs. The grasses and mosses are the brilliant -green of the tropics. A neat suspension foot -bridge swings clear of the water from buttress -to buttress. The shallow, murmuring, sparkling -water bathes the brown roots of shrubs and -trees. Great cedars lie prostrate, covered with -short green moss. Giant firs are draped with a -delicate sea green moss, which hangs in festoons -and pendants from branch, limb and trunk. The -pine tops sigh softly the music of the seas.</p> - -<p>Sunny banks are yellow with the familiar -cinquefoil, the blossoms of which are five -or six times as large as they are at home. In -open glades the ground is white with cornells, -and tiny dogwood shrubs growing from two -to five inches high. The wild purple geranium<span class="pagenum">[114]</span> -brightens sunny glades, while the mountain -spiraea, the most beautiful of all spiraeas, bends -and sways in the breeze.</p> - -<p>Thickets of salmon berry and wonderful -mazes of strange ferns meet one at every turn. -One of the handsomest bushes in the park is the -magnificent Devil’s Club. There are great -thickets of them twenty feet high casting an enticing -but dangerous shade. The dainty green -leaves, as large as dinner plates, rear their heads -aloft, umbrella-like. The stems, limbs, and -trunk are covered with thousands of tiny poisonous -prickles, which work deep into the flesh, -making ugly sores.</p> - -<p>Down on the beach are the graves of Lisiansky’s -men, who were killed by ambuscaded Indians -while taking water for their ship, in 1804.</p> - -<p>Friday evening we weighed anchor and -steamed out of the harbor. The beautiful bay, -with its beautiful islands, slowly receded from -view and we bade farewell to the historic old -town of Sitka.</p> - -<p>Hamerton, in his charming work on Landscape, -says: “There are, I believe, four new experiences -for which no description ever adequately -prepares us, the first sight of the sea, -the first journey in the desert, the sight of flowing<span class="pagenum">[115]</span> -molten lava, and a walk on a great glacier. -We feel in each case that the strange thing is -pure nature, as much nature as a familiar -English moor, yet so extraordinary that we -might be in another planet.”</p> - -<p>I would add a fifth, sunset at sea. Earth -holds nothing more fair, nothing more beautiful -than sunshine.</p> - -<p>A little while ago the sky was blue, flaked -with fleecy white clouds, the snows on the coast -range lay sparkling like diamonds in the sun, -the forest lay dark and green on the mountainside, -the sea gray and blue by turns; but now a -change comes over nature’s moods, the clouds -glow, the snows take on brilliant hues, the dark -old forest grows darker, the sea shimmers and -sparkles, a flaming molten mass.</p> - -<p>The imperial sunset throws its red flame afar, -’till the land, the sea, the mountains, the sky, -the very air it incarnadines in one grand flame -of scarlet. Long, long will the beholder remember -that glorious sunset at Sitka.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_116" class="pagenum">[116]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER IX<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">ALASKA</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>A friend of the writer who owns mines at -Cook’s Inlet thus describes his voyage north -along the coast to Unalaska:</p> - -<p>We were now aboard the Excelsior. About -noon the next day we put out to sea and saw no -more island passages such as we had seen while -aboard the Queen.</p> - -<p>Our first stop was at Yakutat, an Indian village -on the Yakutat Bay. This bay is only an -indentation of the coast, curving inward for -about twenty miles. The whole force of the -Pacific sweeps into it. Landing is both difficult -and dangerous. In the bay are always many -icebergs from the glaciers at its head.</p> - -<p>Great excitement prevailed here in 1880 -when gold was discovered in the black sand -beaches. The rotary hand amalgamators were -used and as much as forty dollars per day to -the man was often realized. The miners, however, -had reckoned without their host; the<span class="pagenum">[117]</span> -Yakutat chief, who suddenly developed financial -ability worthy of his white brother, exacted -licenses and royalties from the miners.</p> - -<p>This black sand mine was not yet exhausted -when a tidal wave heaped the coast with fish. -These decayed in the hot sun and the oil soaked -down into the sand. The mercury would not -work and the miners moved to a new beach, but -again a tidal wave ruined the mines by washing -all the black sand out to sea. Yakutat was then -deserted by the miners. The Indian women of -this village are the finest basket weavers in -Alaska.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Yakutat we sighted Mt. -St. Elias and the Malispania glacier. The Indians -call it Bolshoi Shopka—great one. This -snow-clad mountain, nearly four miles high, -beautiful as Valaskjalf, the silver roofed mansion -of Odin, is a most magnificent sight. Such -grandeur, such solidity, such poetry of color,—the -white peak kisses the blue heaven,—such -solitude. Like the golden few of earth’s great -ones, it stands alone, isolated by its very greatness.</p> - -<p>The Malispania glacier which flows down -from a great névé field in the mountains, is said -to be the largest glacier in the world. It is<span class="pagenum">[118]</span> -nearly one hundred miles long and thirty-five -miles wide where it pours into the sea, and rises -four hundred and fifty feet above tide water.</p> - -<p>Orca, on the shore of Prince William’s -Sound, lies snuggled up under the rugged cliffs, -which rise sheer thousands of feet high. From -the woods beyond a noisy river goes leaping -down the rocks to the sea, where its power is -chained to run the machinery of a cannery. That -other Orca was a powerful sea dragon, especially -fond of a seal diet, but this Orca preys -only on the salmon.</p> - -<p>Our next stop was at Valdes, where two years -ago two thousand miners started for Copper -River, to prospect for gold, but they were -doomed to disappointment, as yet no gold has -been discovered on this river. Many and sad -are the tales of hardships endured by these -miners. Some worked their way up the Copper -River and down Tanana River to the Yukon, -but by far the greater number returned to Valdes -destitute. Many of the miners lost their -lives on the Valdes’ glacier. In going to Copper -River they had to travel eighteen miles -across this treacherous glacier. Nine men lost -their lives here last winter.</p> - -<div id="ii119" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i119.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">WHERE WHALES AND PORPOISES POKE THEIR NOSES UP -THROUGH THE BRINE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[119]</span></p> - -<p>At Valdes is located a government expedition -under the command of Captain Ambercrombie. -The object of this expedition is to study the -topography of the country and to make surveys. -The government is doing much to aid stranded -miners to reach Seattle. For thirty days’ work -they are paid five dollars and given a free passage -to that city.</p> - -<p>Prince William Sound is a fine body of water. -It is almost surrounded by land. Abrupt mountains -rise seemingly out of the sea. It is deeply -indented by fiords and inlets running back from -ten to twenty-five miles. On the south it is -protected by mountainous islands. In coming -out of this sound we passed around Mummy -Point, into the ocean. Presently we came to -the Seal Rocks. They were alive with seals. -When the engineer blew the whistle they went -plunging into the sea, making a great splash. -Whales and porpoises bob their noses up -through the brine—descendants, no doubt, of -that gallant crew of Tyrrhenian mariners -changed by angry Bacchus to dolphins in that -dusky old time when the gods held sway over -nature’s forces.</p> - -<p>From here to Cook’s Inlet we had rough sailing.<span class="pagenum">[120]</span> -Neptune was out on a lark. We realized -fully that he was king of the sea and that we -were his timid subjects.</p> - -<p>The crowning glory of Alaska’s natural attractions -is Cook’s Inlet. Sheltered by a great -mountain wall on the west, its shores enjoy delightful -summer weather. Only the pen of a -Milton or the matchless brush of a Turner -could paint this fair empire of earth, sea and -air. Glacier after glacier, frozen to the cold -breast of the mountains, lay glistening in the -sunshine. The finest waterfalls in Alaska leap -from rugged cliffs and go singing to the sea.</p> - -<p>A grand panorama of snowy peaks, smoking -volcanoes, forested slopes, grassy glades bright -with flowers and fertile valleys, lend enchantment -to this wild Arcadia of the North. Goethe -truly says: “Him whom the gods true art -would teach, they send out into the mighty -world.”</p> - -<p>Moose graze in the open glades, mountain -goat and sheep leap from cliff to rock and away. -Extensive level plateaus line both shores of the -inlet, which will make fine grazing country some -day in the near future. The grass grows luxuriantly -and in many places reaches a height of -six feet. We traveled up the inlet seventy<span class="pagenum">[121]</span> -miles to a branch of the inlet known as the -Turnagain Arm, which is from five to eight -miles wide and enclosed by high mountains. -These mountains are covered with timber at the -base. Tall grass covers the mountain side to -the height of three thousand feet, sweet grass -for all the flocks of some future Pan.</p> - -<p>We landed at Sunrise, which is the largest -city on the inlet. It has a population of one -hundred and fifty, mostly miners. Hope, twelve -miles away, has a population of seventy-five -miners. Fine vegetables grow here. A storekeeper -has a small garden. His potatoes are -as fine as any grown in the states, some weighing -one and one-half pounds. He has cabbages -weighing seven pounds, and turnips weighing -eleven pounds. Beets, peas and other vegetables -are as fine as grown anywhere. People -who have lived here during the winters say that -the temperature rarely falls twenty degrees below -zero, and that the winters are dry and without -blizzards.</p> - -<p>Moose, mountain goat and wild sheep furnish -the towns and camps with meat, which is -usually bought from the Indians, who are good -hunters, but very superstitious. They are afraid -of a giant who, Odin like, rides from mountain<span class="pagenum">[122]</span> -to mountain on the wind, killing every Indian -whom he finds traveling alone. White men -don’t count, so if you wish to employ a guide -to accompany you on a hunting expedition you -must also employ a brother Indian to protect -him, or he “no go.”</p> - -<p>Farther south along the coast a black dwarf -haunts the mountains, making life miserable -for lone Indians. His arrows, like the magical -spear of Odin, never miss their mark.</p> - -<p>In the mountains north and west of the inlet -a giant floats his birch canoe on the wind, from -peak to peak, seeking lone Indians, whom he -slays with the canoe paddles. This wonderful -canoe, like that good ship of Frey, always gets -a fair wind, no matter for what port its oarsman -is bound.</p> - -<p>This portion of the inlet, Turnagain Arm, is -a treacherous bit of water. The highest tides -rise fifty feet. Then there is the bore, which -runs up just as the tide comes in, rising eighteen -to twenty feet perpendicularly.</p> - -<p>No boat can live in it. The tide usually comes -in three great waves, one right after the other. -The water is thick with mud, ground up by the -glaciers at the head of the Arm and brought -down by the streams.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[123]</span></p> - -<p>There will be some good placer mines in -Cook’s Inlet when the country is properly -opened, but it has hardly been prospected -as yet, owing to the difficulty in sinking shafts -to bed rock on account of the water coming in -so rapidly. It is necessary to go through bed -rock to the glacier channels below for the main -deposits of gold.</p> - -<p>By timbering the shafts the water may be -kept out. The soil and gravel taken out of a -shaft which has just been sunk averages only -twenty-five cents per cubic yard, but the owners -intend to go through the rock to the channels -below, where they expect to strike a rich vein, -make their fortunes and return to civilization.</p> - -<p>There is usually a light freeze about the middle -of September, after which the weather is -fine until the last of November.</p> - -<p>The king of volcanoes in this region is -Iliamna. Steam and smoke issue from two -craters at the summit of the snow-clad mountain. -During an eruption this giant shakes the -earth to its very center.</p> - -<p>This wonderful estuary was discovered by -Captain Cook, on the natal day of Princess -Elizabeth, May 21, 1778. He took possession -in the name of her majesty, and buried his<span class="pagenum">[124]</span> -records in a bottle at Possession Point. Vancouver -searched for these records in vain.</p> - -<p>Tramways, stone piers and decaying buildings -speak in unmistakable language of busy -scenes during Russian occupation.</p> - -<p>Five hundred miles west of Sitka, on the -shore of Kadiak, one of the emerald isles of the -Alaskan coast, is St. Paul, the first capital of -Alaska, and the center of the fur trade established -by Shelikoff and Baranhoff.</p> - -<p>The natives say that many summers ago the -Kadiak Islands were separated from the mainland -by a very narrow channel. One day a big -otter attempting to swim through was caught -fast. He struggled until he widened the Shelikoff -Strait, when he swam triumphantly -through. A bad Indian and his dog sent adrift -on a big stone turned into the largest Kadiak, -on the shore of which St. Paul is located. The -Kadiakers are descended from the daughter of -a great chief of the north, who, with her husband -and dogs, was banished from her father’s -lodge.</p> - -<p>The forest on these islands consists of a few -scattered groves. The grass, shrubs and mosses -bathed in a perpetual fog are so brilliantly green -as to dazzle the eye.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[125]</span></p> - -<p>The dug-out canoe disappears here and boats -of sea lion and walrus skins stretched over -frames of drift wood lightly skim the blue -waters of the cold sea.</p> - -<p>As we steam along through sunshine and fog, -past glaciers, mountains and fiords, “so wide -the loneliness, so lucid the air,” we are reminded -that the Ancient Mariner sailed the blue Pacific. -Now the sun drops into the sea, lighting it up -with a luminous glow. With a tremor and a -sparkle the purple waves glimmer red, now -shadow to a violet hue, and now to a crimson -blue.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Tries one, tries all, and will not stay -</div><div class="indent0">But flits from opal hue to hue.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>The volcanoes of Alaska! What a grand, -what a wonderful panorama, as if you had rubbed -Aladdin’s lamp. Expectation stood in awe -when this giant upheaval was in progress. Enwrapped -always in the mellow haze of white -smoke and blue atmosphere, the cold clouds -kissing their white brows, these sentinels old, -like Wordsworth mountain, “look familiar with -forgotten years.”</p> - -<p>The prince of them all, Shishaldin, rises nine -thousand feet, trailing his white robes in the -blue sea.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[126]</span></p> - -<p>The seventy islands of the Aleutian chain lie -along the coast for thousands of miles. These -islands are treeless, but green with Arctic -grasses and mosses.</p> - -<p>At Unalaska the Russians have a nicely built -church. These Greek churches have no pews, -the congregation standing and kneeling during -the service. The priest in charge of this church -speaks no English. These churches all pay an -annual tribute to the patriarch in Moscow. This -is all un-American. The Mary Lee Home, a -Methodist mission, has a small school here.</p> - -<p>The Aleuts, a kind, gentle people, suffered -much at the hands of their Russian masters in -the past. The Aleuts living in sod huts are -the Crofters of America.</p> - -<p>The fine flower of the fauna of Alaska is -found in the valley of the Koyukuk River. Here -tusks and bones of mastodons are found imbedded -in the sand banks and gravel bars.</p> - -<p>Since the discovery of gold in Alaska the Indians -have saved many lives. Born and reared -amidst these wild surroundings, where winter -white and hoary stands ever at the gate of the -North, wagging his shaggy beard, they have -partaken of the very nature of their own rugged -mountains. The long Arctic nights and the intense<span class="pagenum">[127]</span> -cold have given these people hearts of steel -and muscles of iron.</p> - -<p>Are you ill? Are you starving? No mountain -is too high, no snow too deep, but one of -these heroes will climb the one or plunge undauntedly -through the other to bring you succor.</p> - -<p>In the chilly Arctic sea there lies a mysterious -island, the home of the ice goblin, who kicked -it loose from, no one knows where, so the legend -runs, and towed it to its present location.</p> - -<p>Its mountains are the highest, its gorges the -deepest, and its fields and fiords the grandest in -the world.</p> - -<p>It was a most magnificent island before the -goblin stole it and dragged it away into the -great ice fields of the North. It was clothed -in rich verdure. Birds sang, flowers bloomed, -and gay butterflies hovered over them.</p> - -<p>This was not at all to the goblin’s taste, so -he threw a sheet of ice over mountain, field and -fiord. In his ice castle on the summit of the -loftiest peak reigns the great ice goblin, sending -out storms over sea and land, and pouring -ice, snow and glaciers down over the island to -his heart’s content.</p> - -<p>In the Arctic region a dark cloud called the<span class="pagenum">[128]</span> -“loom of the water” overhangs where ever -there is clear water.</p> - -<p>The Arctic sea! The land of the midnight -sun! What a fascinating subject! What an -inexhaustible field for those three happy brothers, -the poet, the painter and the scientist! The -land of jötums, penguins and ice packs. The -land where night kisses morning. The realm -of bright-haired Aurora and sable-robed Niobe.</p> - -<p>Returning along the self same route the mind -never tires nor the eye wearies of the matchless -scenery. Like a moving panorama, grand, -austere, majestic, sublime. Here reigns Vidar, -the god of silence.</p> - -<p>Magnificent fiords indent the coast. The -dark mountains rise to a vast height, their snow -crowned peaks standing out clear and sharp -against the blue sky.</p> - -<p>Glaciers like huge giants clasp the mountains -in their frosty arms, while their tears course -down the mountain’s weather-beaten cheek.</p> - -<p>Here and there a fleecy white cloud envelopes -the summit of a mountain. A silvery thread -comes creeping out over the rocks, loses itself -in the pine forest on the slopes, emerges and -with a boundless sweep plunges into the ocean.</p> - -<p>All this wild scenery from base to peak stands -mirrored in the sea-green water of the fiord.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_129" class="pagenum">[129]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER X<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">FAREWELL TO SKAGWAY</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>At Skagway quite a number of miners came -on board, bound for home. One hears from -them many sad tales of the Klondike. One man -aboard is dying of consumption and scurvy, -contracted in the mining region. A purse is -being made up to enable him to reach his home -in Toronto, Canada. He hopes to live to see his -wife and child. An impromptu entertainment -in the salon netted one hundred and fifty dollars -for the sick miner.</p> - -<p>Another tale not quite so pathetic is that of -Mike McCarty, of San Francisco. He bought -a claim and paid all the money he possessed for -it. When he went to have the lease recorded -he was told that it was not legal, that the property -was not his, but still belonged to the Queen. -“Damn the Quane,” said Mike, “I bought it -and paid me money for it. The Quane has nothing -to do with it at all.” Then he was informed -that some one had sold the claim to him under<span class="pagenum">[130]</span> -false pretense and besides losing it he would get -three months’ imprisonment for insulting the -Queen. “Faith and how could I insult the -Quane when I niver see her?” queried Mike. -“All right,” said the magistrate, “you go up -for three months and the claim still belongs to -the Queen.” “Damn the Quane,” said Mike, -as he was taken away to his cell. Mr. McCarty -is on his way home, a ragged, penniless, but a -wiser man.</p> - -<p>These miners are bringing down a great deal -of gold. One man who has made sixty-five -thousand dollars in mining is taking two children -to Seattle to be educated.</p> - -<p>One lady has her bustle stuffed with paper -money, another her dress skirt interlined with -five and ten dollar bills.</p> - -<p>Gold may be converted into paper money in -Dawson City at the rate of fifteen dollars per -ounce. Its actual value runs from sixteen to -eighteen dollars per ounce.</p> - -<p>Living is quite high at Dawson, owing to the -long distance over which freight must be carried. -Coal oil sells at seven dollars for a five-gallon -can, bread at fifty cents a loaf, beefsteak -at two dollars a pound, candles at one dollar -each. This is an item in household expenses, as -during the winter months it is twilight only<span class="pagenum">[131]</span> -from eleven o’clock in the morning to two -o’clock in the afternoon. Candles are used for -lights in the mines.</p> - -<p>There is plenty of gold in Alaska, but one -must go equipped to withstand the winters and -prepared to work his claim properly. Mining -in Colorado and California is not mining in the -Klondike. For various reasons mining in the -Klondike is much more expensive than in either -of the other places. The British mounted police -are very vigilant, so that miners lose but -little by thieving.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Juneau at eleven o’clock at -night. The sun having just set it was still -daylight. Nearly the entire population was at -the wharf, eager to learn the news of the outside -world. We repaired to the opera house, where -we attended an impromptu political meeting. -The mayor presided and Judge Delany, judge -of Alaska under Cleveland, set forth in a forcible -manner the needs of Alaska. The speaker -said that this rapidly growing child seemed to -be somewhat neglected by legislators, mainly -because Congress does not know her needs. -“First of all,” said he, “we want the boundary -line settled. We want every foot of land called -for in our treaty with Russia in 1867. Until<span class="pagenum">[132]</span> -the discovery of gold in the Klondike England -had never questioned her treaty made with -Russia in 1825. But when gold is discovered -up comes England and plants her flags on our -territory. Our government sent out troops and -forced them back to the original line. Now let -Congress settle it once for all. It interferes -with business and until this question is settled -we don’t know where we are ‘at.’ Next we -want better school facilities. In Juneau we -have two hundred and forty children of -school age and room for only forty. This -state of things exists all over Alaska. -If Congress will give us half as much -attention as is bestowed on the seal we promise -to ask no more. We want some sort of government. -We have no government and are not -represented in Congress. Next we want more -judges and more courts, instead of one judge -and one district as now. We think that Alaska -should be divided into three districts.”</p> - -<p>Congressmen Warner, Dazill, Payne and -Hull replied in short speeches and the meeting -adjourned just at dawn, one o’clock. The opera -house is lighted with electric lights and heated -with a furnace. It has a parquet, dress circle and<span class="pagenum">[133]</span> -boxes, and is a model from an architectural -point of view. The acoustic properties of the -hall are beyond criticism.</p> - -<div id="ii133" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i133.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">STEAMER QUEEN LEAVING JUNEAU.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Leaving Juneau to carry on the struggle of -leading Alaska to statehood, we board our good -ship, the Queen, weigh anchor, and sail away.</p> - -<p>The upper deck is the salon, the reception -hall, the library. Here we leave our steamer -rugs and chairs. Here we come for a better -view of the mountains and the sea. Here we -meet our friends. Here we may take a book -and, snugly ensconced, pass a quiet hour. Many -of us, however, found it difficult to read a single -line or to enjoy our rugs and chairs for long at -a time, for just as your companion has tucked -you all snugly in, exclamations of surprise and -delight from some other part of the vessel lures -you away, as the ship turns her prow this way -and that, now steaming straight ahead, as if she -meant to knock that mountain from its seat, -and now quickly changing her course, giving -us a magnificent view down a fiord.</p> - -<p>Everyone is reading, “David Harum,” and -their comments are quite as interesting as the -book itself.</p> - -<p>Sweet Sixteen—“O, I do just love John and<span class="pagenum">[134]</span> -Mary, but that stupid old David is so tiresome.”</p> - -<p>A critic—“Literature, indeed. Where’s the -plot? You couldn’t find it with a telescope.”</p> - -<p>A judge—“Served his good-for-nothing -brother just right.”</p> - -<p>Pious looking old gentleman—“Good man, -David, but he lacked religion.”</p> - -<p>Business man—“Too soft hearted; ought to -have kicked that idiot Timson out long before -he did.”</p> - -<p>An old farmer lays down the book and laughs -until the tears roll down his weather-beaten -cheeks. “Now, there’s a man as is a man. -Knows all about farmin’ and tradin’ horses, -he, he; traded horses myself, he, he, he; best -book ever read, he, he, he.”</p> - -<p>The first interesting sight to greet us on our -way south was a group of small rocky islands, -where more than a hundred eagles were fishing. -Out they would fly by twos and threes, seize a -fish in their talons, return to the rocks and proceed -to eat him.</p> - -<p>From Dixon’s Entrance to Milbank Sound -lie the Alps of America, a double panorama of -unbroken beauty two hundred miles in length. -Green slopes reflected in greener waters. The<span class="pagenum">[135]</span> -shores rise perpendicularly from a thousand -to fifteen hundred feet, above which snow-clad -mountains rise as high again. Tall trees climb -and cling to these rocky walls like vines and -cascades come gliding out from snowbanks and -go hurrying and singing to the sea, some like -delicate silver threads winding down, others -dashing mountain torrents.</p> - -<div id="ii135" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i135.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ALPS OF AMERICA.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Late in the evening a mist Jötun rose out of -the sea and enveloped us, and the ship lay at -anchor for several hours. The next morning -the sun shone clear and bright. The clouds lay -on the water like a veil of rare old lace flecked -with pearls, diamonds and sapphires, caught up -here and there by unseen hands and wreathed -about the mountains’ snowy brows.</p> - -<p>Scene after scene of wild beauty greets the -eye at every turn of the vessel’s prow. Wild -deer and fawn come down to the water’s edge -and stand gazing at our ship. We ran into a -school of whales disporting in the water and -scattered them right and left. Flock after flock -of wild ducks skim the water, to light in yonder -cove. Flock after flock, battalion after battalion -of wild geese swing along overhead, led -by an old commodore, giving his commands -with military precision, “Honk, honk,” until<span class="pagenum">[136]</span> -the very air quivers with their joyous shouts -and greetings. The cormorant is your true -diver. Down he goes, a ripple, and the water -is smooth again. While you are lost in speculation -as to where he will reappear up he comes -in some placid spot away beyond. If you guess -that he will come up at your right he is sure to -appear much further to your left. If you guess -that he will remain under water two minutes -he is likely to remain five. In fact he never -does the thing you expect of him at all, but like -Thoreau’s loon on Walden pond, he’ll lead you -a merry chase if you board your canoe and attempt -to follow him.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_137" class="pagenum">[137]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XI<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">WASHINGTON AND OREGON</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Seattle is now full of people on their way -to Alaska, principally tourists, as the miners are -now all coming down to rest or visit with relatives -and to make preparations to return to the -Klondike for the winter. Now that the Yukon -and White Pass railroad is completed over the -mountains to Lake Bennett the trip thus far is -made in about four hours which formerly required -four weeks over a rough, rocky mountain -trail. Freight rates are much cheaper -than when the Indians carried the freight over -at twenty-five cents per pound. Living will be -cheaper in the Klondike and more mines will -be worked. Success or failure waits on the -mining industry as well as every other, and the -man who would succeed in the field must study -the business thoroughly.</p> - -<p>From a scientific point of view Alaska is certainly -a wonderful country. From the point of -development and commerce it gives promise of<span class="pagenum">[138]</span> -becoming an important State. The possibilities -in the way of development of its mineral resources -and fisheries are incalculable.</p> - -<p>Seattle is deeply interested in the boundary -question. This city conducts the bulk of the -northwest trade to Alaska and were England -given a port at Lynn canal, Seattle would feel -it keenly, as would Washington and other -Western States. Congressman Warner says -we have nothing to concede to Great Britain in -the way of territory. That we stand on the -right of possession acquired by the Russian purchase. -England is anxious indeed to lay hands -on the Porcupine mining district, which is considered -as rich as the Klondike.</p> - -<p>Traveling south from Seattle, we enter the -grazing and fruit-growing district. Cattle -graze on the hill-sides while the fruit farms -occupy a more level tract. The fine cherries, -known as the Rocky Mountain variety, are ripe -now. There are three varieties; the sweet, the -sour and the blood-red, seen in our market. The -currant farms are of equal interest. The currants -too are ripe. Boys and girls are employed -as pickers. They enjoy the work and consider -it great sport. The luscious fruit is placed in -baskets and carried to the manager, who measures<span class="pagenum">[139]</span> -it and sets down the amount opposite the -picker’s name. The fruit is much larger and -juicier than in the Eastern States.</p> - -<p>Portland is the center of the hop belt. A hop -field is quite as interesting, from a financial -point of view, as a field of broom-corn. If the -crop is a success it pays and pays well, but if a -failure from blight or worm, it is likely to bankrupt -the owner. So you see that a hop ranch -is an interesting speculation. The fields themselves -are beautiful, indeed. The varied shades -of green, from the darker hues of the older -leaves to the delicate sea green of the new tendrils -as they wreathe themselves about the tall -poles, or twine about the wires which in many -fields run from pole to pole, forming a beautiful -green canopy from end to end of the large fields. -Not the least interesting part of the hop ranches -are the store and dry-houses. The hops are -dried by hot air process, and are then baled and -ready for shipment. King Revelry holds high -carnival in the hop districts when the hops are -ripe. Everyone looks forward to this harvest -with the greatest of pleasure. The invalid, because -he would be healed by the wonderful -medicinal qualities of the hops; the well because -he would have an outing and be earning good<span class="pagenum">[140]</span> -wages at the same time; the boys and girls, because -it is their annual festival of frolic and -fun; a time of camp-fires, ghost stories and -witch tales. The real old-fashioned kind that -chills your blood and makes you afraid of the -dark and to go to bed lest the goblins get you -“ef you don’t watch out.” The pickers camp -in the fields and along the road sides. The hops -are picked and placed in trays. Each picker -may have a tray to himself or an entire family -may use one tray. When the trays are full they -are carried to the warehouse where they are -weighed.</p> - -<p>Plank roads abound in Washington. One-half -of the road is laid down in a plank walk, -which is used when the roads are muddy, so -that when the roads dry they are ready to travel -without that wearing-down process which is -so trying to the nerves of both man and beast.</p> - -<p>Oregon is the most important state in the -Union from an Indian’s point of view, for it -was here that the first man was created. It is -needless to say that he was a red man, and his -Garden of Eden was at the foot of the Cascade -mountains. That was long before the bad -Manitou created the white man.</p> - -<p>Portland is a larger city than Seattle. There<span class="pagenum">[141]</span> -is more wealth here too. This city is the outlet -for the immense crops of wheat raised in southern -Washington, Oregon and Idaho. The fine -peaches, plums, cherries, currants and apples -grown here find their way to eastern markets. -Wood is so plentiful and cheap here that every -man has his wood-pile. (The little coal used -on the Pacific coast comes from Australia.) -The enterprising wood sawyer rigs a small -steam saw mill on a wagon, drives up to your -door and without removing the mill from the -wagon saws your wood while you wait.</p> - -<p>An interesting feature of river life in Portland -is the houseboat, moored to the shore. -Sometimes they are floated miles down the river -to the fishing grounds. Most of them are neat -one-story cottages and nicely painted. Nearly -always there is a tiny veranda where flowers in -pots are blooming.</p> - -<p>An aged couple lives in a tiny houseboat, -painted white, which is moored apart from -the others. A veranda runs across the front -of the boat and there are shelves on either -side of the door. They have a fine collection of -geraniums and just now the entire front of -their water home is aglow with the blooms. -Misfortune overtook these people and they<span class="pagenum">[142]</span> -adopted this mode of life because of its cheapness. -Another boat was moored under the lea -of the steep bank. Up the side of the bank a -path led to the top, where the children have -built a small pen from twigs and sticks. Inside -the pen are five fat ducks, a pair of bantams and -a pig.</p> - -<p>Portland is the third wealthiest city for its -size in the world. Frankfort on the Main takes -first rank and Hartford, Conn., second. The -climate is delightful. In summer the average -temperature is eighty, with always a cool breeze -blowing from the sea or the snow-capped mountains.</p> - -<p>The trip up the Columbia river to the dalles is -a continuous panorama of beautiful scenes. On -each side along the densely wooded shores are -low green islands. Here and there barren rocks -fifty to one hundred feet high stand, sentinel -like, while over their rugged sides pour waterfalls. -Ruskin says that “mountains are the beginning -and the end of all natural scenery.” -This wonderful river inspired Bryant’s -“Where rolls the Oregon,” Oregon being the -former name of this river—the Indian name.</p> - -<div id="ii143" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i143.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GOVERNMENT LOCKS ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>James Brice paid a tribute of admiration to -the superb extinct volcanos, bearing snow<span class="pagenum">[143]</span> -fields and glaciers which rise out of the vast -and somber forest on the banks of the Columbia -river and the shores of Puget Sound. The -Oregon chain of mountains from Shasta to -Mount Tacoma is a line of extinct volcanos. -A peculiar basaltic formation three hundred -feet high stands at the gateway to the white -capped Cascades of the Columbia river. Here -a Lorelei might sit enthroned and lure to death -with her entrancing music, sailors and fishermen. -The Cascades are so dangerous that the -government has built locks at this point, -through which every boat passes on its way up -or down the river. The Indian legend as to -the origin of the upheaval in the bed of the river -now called the Cascades runs in this wise: -Years ago when the earth was young, Mount -Hood was the home of the Storm Spirit and -Mt. Adams of the Fire Spirit. Across the vale -that spread between them stretched a mighty -bridge of stone joining peak to peak. On this -altar “the bridge of the gods,” the Indian laid -his offering of fish and dressed skins for Nanne -the goddess of summer. These two spirits, -Storm and Fire, both loving the fair goddess, -grew jealous of each other and fell to fighting. -A perfect gale of fire, lightning, splintered trees<span class="pagenum">[144]</span> -and rocks swept the bridge, but the brave goddess -courageously kept her place on this strange -altar. In the deep shadows of the rocks, a -warrior who had loved her long but hopelessly, -kept watch. The storm waxed stronger, -the altar trembled, the earth to its very center -shook. The young chief sprang forward and -caught Nanne in his arms, a crash and the -beautiful goddess and the brave warrior were -buried under the debris forever. The Columbia -now goes whirling, tossing and dashing -over that old altar and hurrying on to the sea. -The Spirits of Storm and Fire still linger in -their old haunts but never again will they see the -fair Nanne. The Indian invariably mixes a -grain of truth with much that is wild, weird and -strange. It was Umatilla, chief of the Indians -at the Cascades who brought about peace between -the white man and his red brother. He -had lost all of his children by the plague except -his youngest son, Black Eagle, his father -called him, Benjamin the white man called -him. Black Eagle was still a lad when -an eastern man built a little schoolhouse by the -river and began teaching the Indians. A warm -friendship sprang up between teacher and pupil. -One sad day Black Eagle fell ill with the plague.<span class="pagenum">[145]</span> -Old Umatilla received the news that his son -could not live, with all the stoicism of his race, -but he went away alone into the wood, returning -at the dawn of day. When he returned -Black Eagle was dying.</p> - -<div id="ii145" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i145.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">RAPIDS, COLUMBIA RIVER.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Slowly the pale lids closed over the sunken -eyes, a breath and the brave lad had trusted his -soul to the white man’s God.</p> - -<p>The broken-hearted old chief sat the long -night through by the corpse of his son. When -morning came he called the tribe together and -told them he wished to follow his last child to -the grave, but he wanted them to promise -him that they would cease to war with the -white man and seek his friendship. At first -many of the warriors refused, but Umatilla had -been a good chief, and always had given them -fine presents at the potlatches. Consulting -among themselves they finally consented. -When the grave was ready, the braves laid the -body of Black Eagle to rest. Then said the old -chief: “My heart is in the grave with my son. -Be always kind to the white man as you have -promised me, and bury us together. One last -look into the grave of him I loved and Umatilla -too shall die.” The next instant the gentle, -kind hearted old chief dropped to the ground<span class="pagenum">[146]</span> -dead. Peace to his ashes. They buried him as -he had requested and a little later sought the -teacher’s friendship, asking him to guide them. -That year saw the end of the trouble between -the Indians and the white race at the -Dalles.</p> - -<p>The old chief still lives in the history of his -country. Umatilla is a familiar name in Dalles -City. The principal hotel bears the name of -Umatilla.</p> - -<p>On either side of the river farm houses, orchards -and wheat fields dot the landscape.</p> - -<p>Salmon fishing is the great industry on the -river. The wheels along both sides of the -river have been having a hard time of it this -season from the drift wood, the high water and -the big sturgeon, which sometimes get into the -wheels. A big sturgeon got into a wheel belonging -to the Dodon Company and slipped -into the bucket, but was too large to be thrown -out. It was carried around and around until it -was cut to pieces, badly damaging the wheel. -Now the law expressly states, as this is the -close season for sturgeon, that when caught -they must be thrown back in the water. “But -what is the use,” inquires the <cite>Daily News</cite>, “if -they are dead?”</p> - -<div id="ii147" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i147.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">FARM ON THE BANK OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER, BELOW THE -DALLES, OREGON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[147]</span></p> - -<p>A visit to a salmon cannery is full of interest. -As the open season for salmon is from April -first to August first, the buildings though large -are mere sheds. The work is all done by Chinamen. -The fish are tossed onto the wharf, -where they are seized by the men, who carry -them in and throw them on to long tables, chop -off their heads, dress them and hold them, one -fish at a time, under a stream of pure mountain -water, which pours through a faucet over the -long sink. Next they are thrown onto another -table, where other Chinamen cut them up ready -for the cans, all in much less time than it takes -to tell about it. The tin is shipped in the sheet -to the canneries and the cans are made on the -ground.</p> - -<p>Astoria, the Venus of America, is headquarters -for the salmon fishing on the Columbia -River. Joaquin Miller described it as a town -which “clings helplessly to a humid hill side, -that seems to want to glide into the great -bay-like river.” Much of it has long ago -glided into the river. Usually the salmon -canneries are built on the shores, but down -here and on toward the sea, where the -river is some seven miles wide, they are -built on piles in mid stream. Nets are<span class="pagenum">[148]</span> -used quite as much as wheels in salmon fishing. -Sometimes a hungry seal gets into the nets, eating -an entire “catch,” and playing havoc with -the net. Up toward the Dalles on the Washington -side of the river, are three springs. -These springs have long been considered by the -Indians a veritable fountain of youth. Long before -the coming of the white man they carried -their sick and aged to these springs, across the -“Bridge of the Gods.” Just above Dalles City -lies the dalles which obstruct navigation for -twelve miles. Beyond this point the river is -navigable two hundred miles. Here, too, legends -play an important part.</p> - -<p>When the volcanoes of the northwest were -blazing forth their storm of fire, ashes and lava, -a tribe known as the Fire Fiends walked the -earth and held high revelry in this wild country. -When Mount Rainier had ceased to burn the -Devil called the leaders of the tribe together -one day and proposed that they follow nature’s -mood and live more peaceably, and that they -quit killing and eating each other. A howl met -this proposal. The Devil deemed it wise just at -this moment to move on, so off he set, a thousand -Fire Fiends after him. Now his majesty -could easily whip a score of Fiends, but<span class="pagenum">[149]</span> -he was no match for a thousand. He lashed -his wondrous tail about and broke a great -chasm in the ground. Many of the Fiends fell -in, but the greater part leaped the rent and came -on. A second time the ponderous tail came -down with such force that a large ravine was -cracked out of the rocks, the earth breaking -away into an inland sea. The flood engulfed -the Fiends to a man. The bed of the sea is now -a prairie and the three strokes of the Devil’s tail -are plainly visible in the bed of the Columbia at -the dalles.</p> - -<p>Just across the river from Dalles City on a -high bluff, stands a four story building, the -tower in the center running two stories higher. -The building stands out there alone, a monument -to the enterprise of one American. He -called it a shoe factory, but no machinery was -ever put in position. After the pseudo shoe -factory was completed false fronts of other -buildings were set up and the rugged bluffs laid -out in streets. An imaginary bridge spanned -the broad river. Electric lights, also imaginary, -light up this imaginary city. The pictures -which this genius drew of his town -showed street cars running on the principal -streets and a busy throng of people passing to<span class="pagenum">[150]</span> -and fro. As to the shoe factory, it was turning -out thousands of imaginary shoes every day. -Now this rogue, when all was ready, carried the -maps and cuts of his town to the east, where -he sold the factory and any number of lots at -a high figure, making a fortune out of his paper -town.</p> - -<p>From Dalles City across the country to -Prineville in the Bunch Grass country, a distance -of a hundred miles, the country is principally -basalt, massive and columnar, presenting -many interesting geological features. Deep -gorges separate the rolling hills which are covered -with a soil that produces bunch grass in -abundance. This same ground produces fine -wheat and rye. This is a good sheep country -and wool is one of the principal products.</p> - -<p>Crater Lake is haunted by witches and -wizards. Ghosts, with seven leagued boots, -hold high revelry on its shores on moonlight -nights, catching any living thing that comes -their way and tossing it into the deep waters of -the lake, where the water devils drag it under.</p> - -<div id="ii151" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i151.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SCENE ON AN OREGON FARM IN THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We spent two delightful days on an Oregon -farm near Hubbard, thirty miles south of Portland.</p> - -<p>We drove from Hubbard in the morning to<span class="pagenum">[151]</span> -Puddin river. The bridge was being repaired, -so we walked across, our man carrying our -traps. We had just passed Whisky hill when -we met our friend Mr. Kauffman and his -daughter, driving down the road. We were -warmly welcomed and after an exchange of -greetings we drove back with them to their -home, where we partook of such a dinner as -only true hospitality can offer.</p> - -<p>Mr. Kauffman owns three hundred acres of -fine farming land. There is no better land anywhere -on the Pacific coast than in this beautiful -valley of the Willamette river. Beautiful -flowers and shrubs of all sorts in fine contrast -to the green lawn surround the house, which is -painted white, as Ruskin says all houses should -be when set among green trees. Near by is -a spring of pure mountain water. In the -woods pasture beyond the spring pheasants fly -up and away at your approach. Tall ferns nod -and sway in the wind, while giant firs beautiful -enough for the home of a hamadryad lend an -enticing shade at noontime.</p> - -<p>If any part of an Oregon farm can be more -interesting than another it is the orchard, -where apple, peach, plum, pear and cherry -trees vie with each other in producing perfect<span class="pagenum">[152]</span> -fruit. Grapes, too, reach perfection in this delightful -climate. One vine in Mr. Kauffman’s -vineyard measures eighteen inches in circumference. -The dryhouse where the prunes are -dried for market is situated on the south side of -the orchard. No little care and skill is required -to dry this fruit properly.</p> - -<p>Wednesday morning we reluctantly bade -good-by to our kind hostess and departed with -Mr. Kauffman for Woodburn, where we took -the train for Portland. The drive of ten miles -took us through a fine farming district. Here -farms may be seen in all stages of advancement -from the “slashing” process, which is the first -step in making a farm in this wooded country, -to the perfect field of wheat, rye, barley or hops.</p> - -<p>Arriving at Woodburn we lunched at a tidy -little restaurant. The train came all too soon -and we regretfully bade our host farewell.</p> - -<p>The memory of that delightful visit will -linger with us as long as life shall last.</p> - -<div id="ii153" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i153.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ROADWAY IN OREGON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are few regions in the West to-day -where game is as abundant as in times past. -Yet there are a few spots where sport of the -old time sort may be had, and the lake district -of Southern Oregon is one of these. Here, deer -and bear abound as in days of yore, while<span class="pagenum">[153]</span> -grouse, squirrel, mallard duck and partridge -are most plentiful.</p> - -<p>Fort Klamath lake is a beautiful sheet of -water, sixty miles long by thirty wide. Among -the tules in the marshes the mallard is at home, -while grouse and nut brown partridge by the -thousands glide through the grass. Fish lake -speaks for itself, while the very name, Lake of -the Woods, carries with it an enticing invitation -to partake of its hospitality and royal sport.</p> - -<p>Travel is an educator. It gives one a -broader view of life and one soon comes to -realize that this great world swinging in space -is a vast field where millions and millions of -souls are traveling each his own road, all doing -different things, all good, all interesting.</p> - -<p>In our journeyings we have met many interesting -people, but none more interesting than -Miss McFarland, whom we met on our voyage -up the Columbia river. Miss McFarland was -the first American child born in Juneau, -Alaska.</p> - -<p>Her only playmates were Indian children. -She speaks the language like a native and was -for years her father’s interpreter in his mission -work. She has lived the greater part of -her life on the Hoonah islands. The Hoonah<span class="pagenum">[154]</span> -Indians are the wealthiest Indians in America. -Having all become Christians they removed -the last totem pole two years ago.</p> - -<p>Reminiscences of Miss McFarland’s childhood -days among the Indians of Alaska would -make interesting reading.</p> - -<p>The old people as well as the children attend -the mission schools. One day an old chief -came in asking to be taught to read. He came -quite regularly until the close of the school for -the summer vacation. The opening of the -school in the autumn saw the old man in his -place, but his eyes had failed. He could not see -to read and was in despair. Being advised to -consult an optician he did so and triumphantly -returned with a pair of “white man’s eyes.”</p> - -<p>Upon one occasion Miss McFarland’s mother -gave a Christmas dinner to the old people of her -mission. It is a custom of the Indians to carry -away from the feast all of the food which has -not been eaten. One old man had forgotten his -basket, but what matter, Indian ingenuity came -to his aid. Stepping outside the door he removed -his coat and taking off his dress shirt -triumphantly presented it as a substitute in -which to carry home his share of the good -things of the feast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[155]</span></p> - -<p>These Indians believe that earthquakes are -caused by an old man who shakes the earth. -Compare this with Norse Mythology. When -the gods had made the unfortunate Loke fast -with strong cords, a serpent was suspended -over him in such a manner that the venom fell -into his face causing him to writhe and twist so -violently that the whole earth shook.</p> - -<p>When Miss McFarland left her home in -Hoonah last fall to attend Mill’s college every -Indian child in the neighborhood came to say -good-by. They brought all sorts of presents -and with many tears bade her a long farewell. -“Edna go away?” “Ah! Oh! Me so sorry.” -“Edna no more come back?” “We no more -happy now Edna gone,” “No more happy, Oh! -Oh!” “Edna no more come back.” “Oh, good-by, -Edna, good-by.”</p> - -<p>Every Christmas brings Miss McFarland -many tokens of affection from her former playmates. -Pin cushions, beaded slippers, baskets, -rugs, beaded portemonnaies. Always something -made with their own hands.</p> - -<p>Miss McFarland’s name, through that of her -parents, is indissolubly connected with Indian -advancement in Alaska.</p> - -<p>One meets curious people, too, in traveling.<span class="pagenum">[156]</span> -In the parlor at the hotel one evening a party -of tourists were discussing the point of extending -their trip to Alaska. The yeas and nays -were about equal when up spoke a flashily -dressed little woman, “Well,” said she, “what -is there to see when you get there?” That -woman belongs to the class with some of our -fellow passengers, both men and women who -sat wrapped in furs and rugs from breakfast to -luncheon and from luncheon to dinner reading -“A Woman’s Revenge,” “Blind Love,” and -“Maude Percy’s Secret,” perfectly oblivious to -the grandest scenery on the American Continent, -scenery which every year numbers of foreigners -cross continents and seas to behold.</p> - -<p>One of our fellow travelers is a German -physician who is spending the summer on the -coast. He is deeply interested in the woman -question in America. He is quite sure that -American women have too much liberty. -“Why,” said he, “they manage everything. -They rule the home, the children and their husbands, -too. Why, madam, it is outrageous. -Now surely the man ought to be the head of -the house and manage the children and the wife -too, she belongs to him, doesn’t she?”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[157]</span></p> - -<p>“Not in America,” we replied, “the men are -too busy, and besides they enjoy having their -homes managed for them. Then, too, the women -are too independent.”</p> - -<p>“That is just what I say, madam, they have -too much liberty, they are too independent. -They go everywhere they like, do everything -they like and ask no man nothings at all.”</p> - -<p>My German friend evidently thinks that unless -this wholesale independence of women is -checked our country will go to destruction. -The war with Spain does not compare with it. -I am wondering yet if our critic’s wife is one -of those independent American women.</p> - -<p>Just below Portland on the banks of the -Willamette river and connected with Portland -by an electric street railway stands the first -capital of Oregon, Oregon City, the stronghold -of the Hudson Bay Company, which aided -England in so nearly wrenching that vast territory -from the United States.</p> - -<p>This quaint old town is rapidly taking on the -marks of age. The warehouse of that mighty -fur company stands at the wharf, weather -beaten and silent. No busy throng of trappers, -traders and Indians awaken its echoes with<span class="pagenum">[158]</span> -barter and jest. No fur loaded canoe glides -down the river. No camp fire smoke curls up -over the dark pine tops.</p> - -<p>The Indian with his blanket, the trapper with -his snares and the trader with his wares have -all disappeared before the march of a newer -civilization. The camp fire has given place to -the chimney; the blanket to the overcoat; the -trader to the merchant and the game preserves -to fields of waving grain.</p> - -<p>The lonely old warehouse looks down in -dignified silence on the busy scenes of a city full -of American push and go.</p> - -<p>All the forenoon the drowsy porter sat on his -stool at the door of the sleeper, ever and anon -peering down the aisle or scanning the features -of the passengers.</p> - -<p>What could be the cause of his anxiety? -Was he a detective in disguise? Had some -one been robbed the night before? Had some -one forgotten to pay for services rendered? -Had that handsome man run away with the -beautiful fair haired woman at his side? -Visions of the meeting with an irate father at -the next station dawned on the horizon.</p> - -<p>The train whirled on and still the porter kept -up his vigilance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[159]</span></p> - -<p>It was nearly noon when I stepped across to -my own section and picked up my shoes. The -sleepy porter was wide awake now. His face -was a study. For one brief moment I was sure -that he was a detective and that he thought -he had caught the rogue for whom he was -looking.</p> - -<p>“Them your shoes, Madam?” said he approaching -me.</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“Why, Madam, I’ve been waitin’ here all -mornin’ for the owner to come and get ’em.”</p> - -<p>Ah, now I understood. He was responsible -for the shoes and he thought that they belonged -to a man. Fifty cents passed into the -faithful black hands and my porter disappeared -with just a hint of a smile on his face.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_160" class="pagenum">[160]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">OFF FOR CALIFORNIA</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>We left Portland on the night train for San -Francisco. I took my gull, the Captain we -called him, into the sleeper with me. He was -asleep when I placed his basket under my berth, -but about midnight he awoke and squawked -frightfully.</p> - -<p>I rang for the porter but before he arrived -the Captain had awakened nearly every one in -the car. Angry voices were heard inquiring -what that “screeching, screaming thing,” was.</p> - -<p>An old gentleman thrust his red night capped -head out of his berth next to mine and angrily -demanded of me where that nasty beast came -from. When I politely told him he said he -wished that I had had the good sense to leave it -there. Then he said something that sounded -dreadfully like swear words, but being such an -old gentleman I’ve no doubt that my ears deceived -me.</p> - -<p>At any rate it was something about sea gulls<span class="pagenum">[161]</span> -in general and my own in particular. His red -flannel cap disappeared and presently I heard -him snoring away up in G. Now my poor -gull only squawked on low C. After that the -Captain traveled in the baggage car with the -trunks and packages.</p> - -<p>Traveling south from Portland one passes -farms and orchards until the foot of the Sierra -Nevada range is reached. Most of the farms -are well improved. Many of the orchards are -bearing, while others are young.</p> - -<p>Here and there in the mountains are cattle -ranches. These mountains are not barren, -rugged rocks like the Selkirks of Alaska. Here -there is plenty of pasture to the very summit of -the mountains.</p> - -<p>Wolf Creek valley is one vast hay field. Up -we go until the far-famed Rogue River valley -is reached. This noble valley lying in the heart -of the Sierras reminds one of the great Mohawk -valley of New York.</p> - -<p>Ashland is the center of this prosperous district. -The Southern State Normal School is -located here.</p> - -<p>The seventh annual assembly of the Southern -Oregon Chautauqua will convene in Ashland in -July. This assembly is always well attended.<span class="pagenum">[162]</span> -Farmers bring their families and camp on the -grounds. The program contains the names of -musicians prominent on the coast. Among the -lecturers are the names of men and women -prominent in their special fields. Frank Beard, -the noted chalk talk lecturer, will be present. -So you see that the wild and woolly west is not -here, but has moved on to the Philippines.</p> - -<p>When the passenger train stops at the station -of Ashland a score of young fruit venders -swarm on the platform, crying plums, cherries, -peaches and raspberries at fifteen cents a box. -When the train-bell rings fruit suddenly falls to -ten cents and when the conductor cries “All -aboard” fruit takes a downward plunge to five -cents a box, but the fruit is all so delicious that -you do not feel in the least cheated in having -paid the first price. “Look here, you young -rascal,” said a newspaper man, who travels -over the road frequently to one of the young -fruit dealers, “I bought raspberries of you yesterday -at five cents a box.” “O no you -didn’t, mister, never sold raspberries at five -cents a box in my life sir, pon honor.” In less -than three minutes this young westerner was -crying “Nice ripe raspberries here, five cents a -box.” “Why,” said I, “I thought you told<span class="pagenum">[163]</span> -the gentleman that you never sold berries at five -cents a box.” “No, Madam, I didn’t, pon -honor,” and the little rogue really looked innocent.</p> - -<div id="ii163" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i163.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">CLIMBING THE SHASTA RANGE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Leaving Ashland with three big engines we -climb steadily up four thousand one hundred -and thirty feet to the summit of the range.</p> - -<p>The Rogue River valley spreads out below us -in a grand panorama of wheat, oats, barley -fields and orchards. Down the southern slope -the commercial interest centers in large saw-mills -and cattle ranches.</p> - -<p>Off to the east lie the lava beds where Gen. -Canby and his companions were so treacherously -assassinated by the Modoc Indians under the -leadership of Captain Jack and Scar Faced -Charley.</p> - -<p>Crossing the Klatmath River valley the -dwelling place in early days of the Klatmath -Indians, the engines make merry music as they -puff, puff, puff in a sort of Rhunic rhyme to the -whir of the wheels as they groan and -climb three thousand nine hundred feet -to the summit of the Shasta range. There -is something wonderfully fascinating about -mountain climbing. Whether by rail over a -route laid out by a skilled engineer; on the back<span class="pagenum">[164]</span> -of a donkey over a trail just wide enough for -the feet of the little beast, or staff in hand you -go slowly up over rocks and bowlders, or -around them, clinging to trees and shrubs for -support. The very fact that the train may -without a moment’s notice plunge through a -trestle or go plowing its way down the mountain -side; the donkey lose his head and take a -false step; the shrub break or a bowlder come -tearing down the rock-ribbed mountain and -crush your life out, thrills the blood and holds -the mind enthralled as a bird is held enchanted -by the charm of the pitiless snake.</p> - -<p>Throughout the mountains mistletoe, that -mystic plant of the Druids, hangs from the -limbs and trunks of tall trees.</p> - -<p>It was with an arrow made from mistletoe -that Hoder slew the fair Baldur.</p> - -<p>All day long snow-covered Mt. Shasta has -been in sight and toward evening we pass near -it on the southern side of the range and stop -at the Shasta Soda Springs. The principal -spring is natural soda water. This is the -fashionable summer resort of San Francisco -people, who come here to get warm, the climate -of that city being so disagreeable during July<span class="pagenum">[165]</span> -and August that people are glad to leave town -for the more genial air of the mountains.</p> - -<div id="ii165" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i165.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">THE HIGHEST TRESTLE IN THE WORLD, NEAR MUIR’S PEAK, -SHASTA RANGE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It certainly is odd to have people living in the -heart of a great city ask you during these two -months if it is hot out in the country. “Out in -the country” means forty or fifty miles out, -where there is plenty of heat and sunshine. At -Shasta Springs, however, the weather is cooler. -The climate is delightful, the water refreshing -and the strawberries beyond compare. Boteler, -known as a lover of strawberries, once said -of his favorite fruit: “Doubtless God could -have made a better berry, but doubtless God -never did.”</p> - -<p>Just beyond the springs stand the wonderful -Castle Crags. Hidden in the very depths of -these lofty Crags lies a beautiful lake. This -strange old castle of solid granite, its towers -and minarets casting long shadows in the moonlight -for centuries, is not without its historic interest, -though feudal baron nor chatelaine -dainty ever ruled over it. Joaquin Miller, in -the “Battle of Castle Crag,” tells the tale of its -border history.</p> - -<p>Not far away at the base of Battle Rock a -bloody battle was once fought between a few<span class="pagenum">[166]</span> -whites and the Shasta Indians on one side and -the Modoc Indians on the other.</p> - -<div id="ii167" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i167.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MOUNT SHASTA.<br /> -By permission of <span class="smcap">F. Laroche</span>, Photographer, Seattle, Washington.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Indians of California say that Mt. -Shasta was the first part of the earth created. -Surely it is grand enough and beautiful enough -to lay claim to this pre-eminence. When the -waters receded the earth became green with -vegetation and joyous with the song of birds, -the Great Manitou hollowed out Mt. Shasta for -a wigwam. The smoke of his lodge fires -(Shasta is an extinct volcano) was often seen -pouring from the cone before the white man -came.</p> - -<p>Kmukamtchiksh is the evil spirit of the world. -He punishes the wicked by turning them into -rocks on the mountain side or putting them -down into the fires of Shasta.</p> - -<p>Many thousands of snows ago a terrible -storm swept Mt. Shasta. Fearing that his -wigwam would be turned over, the Great Spirit -sent his youngest and fairest daughter to the -crater at the top of the mountain to speak to the -storm and command it to cease lest it blow the -mountain away. She was told to make haste -and not to put her head out lest the Wind catch -her in his powerful arms and carry her away.</p> - -<p>The beautiful daughter hastened to the summit<span class="pagenum">[167]</span> -of the peak, but never having seen the ocean -when it was lashed into a fury by the storm -wind, she thought to take just one peep, a fatal -peep it proved. The Wind caught her by her -long red hair and dragged her down the -mountain side to the timber below.</p> - -<p>At this time the grizzly bears held in fee all -the surrounding country, even down to the sea. -In those magic days of long ago they walked -erect, talked like men and carried clubs with -which to slay their enemies.</p> - -<p>At the time of the great storm a family of -grizzlies was living in the edge of the forest -just below the snow line. When the father -grizzly returned one day from hunting he saw -a strange little creature sitting under a fir tree -shivering with cold. The snow gleamed and -glowed where her beautiful hair trailed over it. -He took her to his wife who was very wise in -the lore of the mountains. She knew who the -strange child was but she said nothing about it -to old father grizzly, but kept the little creature -and reared her with her own children.</p> - -<p>When the oldest grizzly son had quite grown -up his mother proposed to him that he marry -her foster daughter who had now grown to be a -beautiful woman.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[168]</span></p> - -<p>Many deer were slain by the old father -grizzly and his sons for the marriage feast. -All the grizzly families throughout the -mountains were bidden to the feast.</p> - -<p>When the guests had eaten of the deer and -drank of the wine distilled from bear berries -and elder berries in moonlight at the foot of -Mt. Shasta, when the feast was over, they all -united and built for their princess a magnificent -wigwam near that of her father. This is -“Little Mt. Shasta.”</p> - -<p>The children of this strange pair were a new -race,—the first Indians.</p> - -<p>Now, all this time the great spirit was ignorant -of the fate of his beloved daughter, but -when the old mother grizzly came to die she felt -that she could not lie peacefully in her grave -until she had restored the princess to her father.</p> - -<p>Inviting all the grizzlies in the forest to be -present at the lodge of the princess, she sent her -oldest grandson wrapt in a great white cloud to -the summit of Mt. Shasta to tell the Great -Spirit where his daughter lived.</p> - -<p>Now when the great Manitou heard this he -was so happy he ran down the mountain side so -fast that the snow melted away under his feet.<span class="pagenum">[169]</span> -To this day you can see his footprints in the -lava among the rocks on the side of the -mountain.</p> - -<p>The grizzlies by thousands met him and -standing with clubs at “attention” greeted him -as he passed to the lodge of his daughter.</p> - -<p>But when he saw the strange children and -learned that this was a new race he was angry -and looked so savagely at the old mother grizzly -that she died instantly. The grizzlies now set -up a dreadful wail, but he ordered them to keep -quiet and to get down on their hands and knees -and remain so until he should return. He -never returned, and to this day the poor doomed -grizzlies go on all fours.</p> - -<p>A wonderful feat of jugglery, but a greater -was that of the Olympian goddess who changed -the beautiful maiden Callisto into a bear, which -Jupiter set in the heavens, and where she is to -be seen every night, beside her son the Little -Bear.</p> - -<p>The angry Manitou turned his strange -grandchildren out of doors, fastened the door -and carried his daughter away to his own wigwam.</p> - -<p>The Indians to this day believe that a bear<span class="pagenum">[170]</span> -can talk if you will only sit still and listen to -him. The Indians will not harm a bear. Now -for the meaning of those queer little piles of -stones one sees so frequently in the Shasta -mountains. If an Indian is killed by a bear he -is burned on the spot where he fell. Every Indian -who passes that way will fling a stone at -the fated place to dispel the charm that hangs -over it.</p> - -<p>“All that wide and savage water-shed of the -Sacramento tributaries to the south and west of -Mt. Shasta affords good bear hunting at almost -any season of the year—if you care to take the -risks. But he is a velvet-footed fellow, and -often when and where you expect peace you -will find a grizzly. Quite often when and where -you think that you are alone, just when you -begin to be certain that there is not a single -grizzly bear in the mountains, when you begin -to breathe the musky perfume of Mother -Nature as she shapes out the twilight stars in -her hair, and you start homeward, there stands -your long lost bear in your path! And your -bear stands up! And your hair stands up! -And you wish you had not lost him! And you -wish you had not found him! And you start<span class="pagenum">[171]</span> -for home! And you go the other way glad, -glad to the heart if he does not come tearing -after you.”<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p>Downward from Mt. Shasta flows the Sacramento -river. For thirty miles it goes tumbling -over bowlders and granite ledges on its -way to the sea. In mid-summer the Sacramento -cañon is a paradise of umbrageous -beauty, a region of forest and groves, of leafy -shrubs, delicate ferns, mosses and beautiful -flowers, of roaring, tumbling rivers, shining -lakelets and dancing trout streams.</p> - -<p>Up in the mountains the dewberries are -ripe. They are about the size of currants, but -farther down the slope they are larger. Blackberries -are also plentiful, also the black raspberry, -called by the Indians succotash.</p> - -<p>The coniferous forests of the Sierra Nevada -range are the most beautiful in the world. -Here, where the granite domes which are so -striking a feature of the Sierras, we find the -most beautiful little meadows lying on the tops -of the dividing ridges or on their sloping sides. -These meadows are all aglow with wild flowers, -rank columbines, stately larkspur, daisies and<span class="pagenum">[172]</span> -the lovely lupines, beds of blue and white violets, -many strange grasses and beautiful sedges, -and the glory of them all, the lily.</p> - -<p>The magnificent sunset of the mountains, the -afterglow resting on their summits, the many -clouds of various hues, borrowing the tints of -the rainbow,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“That glory mellower than a mist -</div><div class="indent0">Of pearl dissolved with amethyst,” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>resting on the snowy peaks, lend an enchantment -to the scene that might entice the elf -king Oberon himself and all his crew of Pixies -and Imps back to earth.</p> - -<p>Doubtless God might have created a more -magnificent range of mountains than the Sierras, -but doubtless God never did.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“If thou art worn and hard beset -</div><div class="indent0">With sorrows thou wouldst forget, -</div><div class="indent0">Go to the woods and hills.” - -</div><div class="indent8">—<span class="smcap">Longfellow.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>“There ain’t nothing like fresh air and the -smell of the woods. There’s always a smell -from trees dead, or living, and the air is better -where the woods be.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_173" class="pagenum">[173]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">SAN FRANCISCO</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The Pacific slope has a wonderful flora -which has been but little studied. Here wonderful -ferns and laurels grow the whole year -round. With few exceptions all the plants are -new and strange. One of the most beautiful -trees on the coast is the madrona, graceful and -stately, its red trunk contrasting oddly with its -green foliage. The dandelion is here but -puts on such airs and graces that unless you are -quite familiar with him you would never take -him for the common weed he is at home. He -grows several in a cluster on a delicate stem -twelve to fifteen inches long. He is the pale -yellow of California gold. His white head -when he goes to seed is more frowsy than with -us, and the seeds are a little different in shape, -but he wings himself over onto people’s lawns -with the agility and grace of his Illinois -brother.</p> - -<p>There are many points of interest in San<span class="pagenum">[174]</span> -Francisco and not the least of these is China -Town, which has a population of thirty thousand -people. A Chinese school is a place -of interest. The boys (girls are not sent -to school in China Town) stand at long -tables running across the room. The pupils -all study aloud. Besides their books each -pupil is provided with a small camel’s -hair brush and a pot of ink with which -he writes out his lessons in the characters of his -native language. The paper used is very red, -while the ink is very black. This is a priest’s -school and these little almond-eyed Orientals -in their quaint caps and gowns are all studying -for the priesthood. They laugh and whisper -too, when the teacher’s attention is engaged -elsewhere, just like American children. One -boy painted a Chinese character on another’s -face, then they all laughed and the first boy -wiped it angrily off. The teacher had not seen -it, so no one was punished. The teacher, a fine -looking man in the native dress of his country, -with a few strokes of his brush painted for us -on red paper an advertisement of his school. -Teacher and pupils bowed a good morning as -we departed.</p> - -<div id="ii177" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i177.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">STREET SCENE IN CHINATOWN, SAN FRANCISCO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At the Christian Mission the Chinese minister,<span class="pagenum">[175]</span> -a man of much intelligence, greeted us cordially, -asking where we were from. He knew -where Chicago was and something about it. -He was sorry that the services were over and -asked us to come again next Sunday at ten -o’clock.</p> - -<p>The tea house, which is the club room, is the -finest oriental club house in America. The -beautiful tables and chairs are all inlaid with -marble and pearl.</p> - -<p>The Joss House, which is the temple, is magnificently -adorned and decorated. A cup of -tea, which of course evaporates, is kept setting -in front of the god, but his worshipers believe -he drinks it. Lamps and incense are kept burning -all the time to keep the evil spirits away. -The worshipers come and go at all hours. No -regular services are held except at New Years -and on feast days. Upon request, however, the -priest will accompany an individual to the temple -and conduct services for him.</p> - -<p>The home of an aristocratic Chinaman is full -of interest to an American. In the home in -which we visited everything except the chairs -came from China, and these looked oddly out -of place against the background of rich oriental -draperies, and the quaint costumes of our<span class="pagenum">[176]</span> -hostess and her daughter. Our hostess was a -large woman, but she proudly displayed her -tiny feet, the mark of true aristocracy. She -hobbled bravely about on these feet only four -inches long and did the honors of her house.</p> - -<p>When in exchange for the compliment of -seeing these aristocratic feet I quite as proudly -thrust out my American ones encased in No. 6 -broad-soled mountain climbers, the dear lady -bowed and smiled, but made no comment. The -six-year-old daughter of the house was suffering -the tortures of having her feet bound. -When the Chinese become Christians they -abandon this practice.</p> - -<p>In an opium den an old smoker showed us -how he smoked the fateful drug. He first -took a large lump of opium on a long needle -and holding it in the flame of a candle, burnt -the poison out of it, then thrust it into the cup -of his long pipe, the tiny opening of which he -held near the lighted candle, sucking the blue -smoke into his lungs and exhaling it through -his nostrils.</p> - -<p>In the drug store the druggist was putting -up a prescription for a sick Chinaman who was -standing near. He took down four different -bottles and took some roots out of each. Telling<span class="pagenum">[177]</span> -the man to make a tea of them he tied them -up and handed them over the counter and received -his pay. There were lizards and toads -there also to be made into medicine.</p> - -<p>In the jewelry store four goldsmiths were at -work making rings, bracelets and earrings, all -by hand.</p> - -<p>In the market all sorts of fish and birds were -offered for sale. A big fat pig roasted whole -looked tempting indeed. Beans, which had -been kept damp until they had sprouted, the -sprouts an inch to two inches long were ready -to be made into a tempting salad. There were -baskets of green watermelons the size of an orange.</p> - -<p>This being Sunday the streets were thronged -with Chinese in native holiday dress, who -sauntered leisurely along or gathered in groups -chatting away in their native tongue. Their -long queues tied with black ribbon hung down -the back or were tucked into the side pocket of -the tunic. Here and there an Oriental who had -imbibed some of the American energy hurried -along dressed in the somber business suit of the -American, his closely cropped hair, mustache -and American shoes making a strange contrast -to the groups on the corner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[178]</span></p> - -<p>There is no Sunday in the calendar of these -almond-eyed Orientals,—the stores, markets -and opium dens were all open.</p> - -<p>Presently the weird music of the Salvation -Army broke on our ears. Down the street -came the Chinese Salvation band, dressed in -American costume, the leader carrying the -American flag.</p> - -<p>When the first Chinese came to California -the Indians were very curious about them. -A dispute arose among them as to what country -the strangers might hail from, and whether -or not they were Indians.</p> - -<p>The Indians, wise as the Puritans of old, -would apply the water test. If the accused -swam they were witches, if they drowned they -were innocent.</p> - -<p>One day a party of Indians met a party of -Chinamen approaching a little stream.</p> - -<p>The strangers approached the bridge and -started across. The Indians too filed across and -meeting the Chinamen in mid-stream pushed -two of them into the angry, spuming current -below. The test was conclusive. They could -not swim. They were <em>not</em> Indians.</p> - -<p>In the fire department are exhibited two<span class="pagenum">[179]</span> -queer old engines. One was purchased in New -York in 1849 and brought around the Horn. -The other is a hand engine a little more modern -in make. These engines are carefully guarded -and never taken out except on rare occasions.</p> - -<p>Down toward the wharf there stands a -quaint old building, the material for which -was brought around Cape Horn in 1850. This -was San Francisco’s first hotel.</p> - -<p>In the wild days of the early history of this -little adobe city, nestled among the dunes and -sand hills, Mount Diablo looked down on weird -scenes on the plaza in front of this old hotel. -Here the famous vigilance committee meted out -justice to rogue and outlaw alike.</p> - -<p>In the early history of California the eighth -day of July, 1846, stands out conspicuously. -On that day the Brooklyn dropped her anchor -off the island of Yerba Buena, the “good herb,” -and flung the Stars and Stripes to the breeze. -At noon Captain Montgomery unfurled the -American flag on the plaza.</p> - -<p>In that good ship came a party of pseudo -Mormons, under the leadership of “Bishop” -Brannan, the valiant leader of the Vigilance -Society. This colony of Latter Day saints<span class="pagenum">[180]</span> -brought stout hearts, keen wits, strong arms, -pluck, plenty of money and a printing press. -Later they quarreled with their bishop and went -to law with him and thus gave up their scheme -of Mormon colonization and made sport of -Brigham Young himself in their tents on the -beach.</p> - -<p>But they gave to San Francisco her first -newspaper pledged to eschew all sectarian -dogmas; her first prayer meeting and her first -trial by jury. A wonderfully progressive people, -those Mormons of the sand dunes.</p> - -<p>Washington Bartlett, the first alcalde of -Yerba Buena, changed the name to San Francisco.</p> - -<p>The name of John C. Fremont stands for -California as does that of Dr. Marcus Whitman -for Oregon.</p> - -<p>We called on the astrologer. When our horoscopes -were cast and our future told us, we -bade adieu to China Town.</p> - -<p>The Golden Gate park is a perfect bower of -beauty, a fine piece of landscape gardening.</p> - -<div id="ii181" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i181.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MUSEUM IN GOLDEN GATE PARK, SAN FRANCISCO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the center of the park stands the Hall of -Art, a handsome building of Egyptian architecture. -From the display in the relic department<span class="pagenum">[181]</span> -one easily reads the history of early days -in California.</p> - -<p>In the department of statuary the loveliest -figure was one in the beautiful carrara marble -of Merope who was cast out of heaven because -she fell in love with a mortal.</p> - -<p>A plaster cast of the head of David after the -colossal statue by Michael Angelo set in place -in Florence in 1504, attracted much attention.</p> - -<p>Michael Angelo had his troubles like other -mortals. When his David was placed in position -the mayor of Florence objected to the nose -of the statue, saying it was too large. Angelo, -perceiving that his critic’s position gave him a -poor light on the figure, took a handful of -marble dust, a hammer and a chisel and climbing -to the head of the statue gave the nose a -few taps, at the same time letting fall the dust. -The mayor without changing position declared -the nose perfect.</p> - -<p>The Second Oregon had come home: Early -in the morning the commanders were instructed -to get their men ready to march to the barracks. -Ten minutes later the regiment was on the -wharf, the men wearing the blue shirts, brown -trousers and leggins which they wore when<span class="pagenum">[182]</span> -charging through the jungles and over the rice -fields in the Philippines. The mascot detachment -was not so easily landed.</p> - -<p>“Here, Walker, take this monkey,” shouted -a corporal.</p> - -<p>“Grab that goat quick, he is going overboard.”</p> - -<p>“Lend me a hand here, you privates; let’s -get this menagerie ashore,” commanded the -officer of the day.</p> - -<p>Order reigned about two seconds when -“Monkey overboard” turned order into chaos. -Twenty men rushed to the edge of the wharf -and strenuous efforts were made to save the -life of the little brown fellow who had toppled -off the gang plank. Ropes were carried from -every corner of the wharf, but the efforts of -the men were unavailing and the monkey lost -his life. The other monkeys, the parrots, the -dogs and the goat were safely landed. The goat -chews tobacco and eats it too.</p> - -<p>The Oregon band struck up “Home Sweet -Home” in quick time and the march to -the Presidio began.</p> - -<p>For an hour or more a man near me had been -talking in a pessimistic way about the war. He -said this Philippine scuffle didn’t amount to<span class="pagenum">[183]</span> -much anyway. What did we want with their -old islands, anyhow? We ought to return them. -It was a violation of the constitution to keep -them.</p> - -<p>Ten minutes later he was saying, “I can’t -stand it,” as platoon after platoon went by with -decimated ranks. One platoon had left nearly -every man in the Philippines.</p> - -<p>There were others who “couldn’t stand it.” -“Home Sweet Home” sounded like a mockery. -Up the street trudged these boys in blue, -travel stained and weary, bearing the flag with -holes in it, holes made by the death-winged -bullets of the Filipinos. How gaunt and sick -they looked. War had not been play with -them. Not many cheers were heard. There -were more “God bless you boys” than “Hurrahs.”</p> - -<p>Other bands may play better, other bands -may play louder, but none ever played more effectively -than the Oregon.</p> - -<p>Three big flags flung their folds to the ocean -breeze as the regiment marched up the street. -One of them was a dazzle of blue and gold and -one bright and new, but one was the real Old -Glory, torn by shot and shell, raveled and -frayed by the Philippine winds. It was the<span class="pagenum">[184]</span> -battle stained, tattered emblem of our country’s -honor that received the heartiest cheers and -warmest welcome. This was the flag that -brought the mist before the eyes and brought to -the mind Decatur’s noble toast. “Our country. -In her intercourse with foreign countries may -she always be right; but right or wrong, our -country.”</p> - -<p>On stretchers borne by the ambulance corps -came the sick and wounded. A great contrast, -these war-worn soldiers, to the spick and span -Sixth Cavalry which escorted them.</p> - -<p>Right royally did the Queen of the Golden -Gate welcome home Oregon’s noble sons.</p> - -<p>Passing the Examiner building nearly a million -firecrackers which decorated the building, -hanging in great loops and festoons, were set -off. In the midst of this noise some one -threw out a big bouquet of American Beauty -roses. A soldier caught them and sniffed their -fragrance. “They’re American Beauties, -boys,” he said and passed them on. Up and -down the line went those roses, each man burying -his face in them for a moment, then passing -them on to his brother. When they had passed -the rear line they were handed to the next platoon,<span class="pagenum">[185]</span> -and so they went on down that battle-scarred -line.</p> - -<p>The little Filipino boy, Manuel Robels, who -accompanied the boys home, caught nearly -every eye as he trudged along, a sawed-off -Mauser rifle over one shoulder and an American -flag over the other. Flowers were showered -on him too.</p> - -<p>Out at Van Ness street General Shafter sat -on horseback with his staff, to review the -troops.</p> - -<p>Just beyond the place of review a company of -wee tots with military hats and lath guns stood -at the edge of the side-walk and presented arms. -All that gallant regiment, from the colonel to -the little Filipino boy, returned the salute of -those patriotic tots.</p> - -<p>Thus the noble Second regiment of the Oregon -Volunteers marched out to the Presidio and -to Fame’s eternal camping ground.</p> - -<p>The Presidio, now the United States barracks, -was established by the Spaniards in -1776. Little dreamed they that out of this camp -would come one hundred years later a conquering -host.</p> - -<p>The camp is delightfully located on the bay<span class="pagenum">[186]</span> -north of the city. The grounds include a thousand -acres. The officers’ quarters are neat, cosy -cottages. The long porches and verandas of the -barracks are covered with vines and roses. -Rows upon rows of flowers such as only grow -in this moist climate decorate the walks on -either side.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_187" class="pagenum">[187]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIV<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">CALIFORNIA FARMS AND VINEYARDS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>What temperament is to a man, that climate -is to a country. The climate of California is -one of the most delightful in the world.</p> - -<p>California possesses the wealth of two zones. -The ocean current gives it a temperate climate -and the mountain ranges intercepting and reflecting -the sun’s rays give California a climate -distinctly her own.</p> - -<p>Fine fruit farms surround San Francisco -for fifty miles. Irrigation, combined with a -genial climate, produces the delicious fruit for -which California is justly famed. In the vineyards -the vines are pruned low, from two to -four feet high. The Leland Stanford vineyard -is one of the finest on the coast, the low pruned -vines with their dark green leaves and rich purple -fruit making a fine contrast to the red brown -soil.</p> - -<p>California produces more wine to the acre -than any other country in the world. The best<span class="pagenum">[188]</span> -American wines come from Sonoma county, -the Asti of America, where a thousand foothills -are planted in choice wine grapes, and -where nature supplies all the moisture necessary -to perfectly ripen the fruit.</p> - -<p>The vines are planted eight feet apart, intersected -by wide avenues, down which the wagons -pass in gathering up the boxes into which the -pickers have tossed the ripe grapes—only well -ripened grapes make good wine. Many of these -roadways are lined on either side with olives, -palms and other semi-tropical plants.</p> - -<p>The pickers are mostly Swiss and Italian, -men of practical experience in their own countries. -They work in groups and keep up a running -fire of jest and fun; ever and anon a happy -heart breaks out in native song.</p> - -<p>Pitchers of rude crockery are scattered about -filled with wine for the workers.</p> - -<p>From San Diego to Dutch Harbor wine -flows freely, but yet there is no drunkenness to -speak of.</p> - -<div id="ii189" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i189.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">EARLY MORNING, YOSEMITE VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The interest in a vineyard centers in the -winery and the wine cellars. The grapes are -first picked from the stems, then thrown into -the great crushers, the juice flowing away -through flumes to the fermenting vats. Asti<span class="pagenum">[189]</span> -boasts the largest wine-tank in the world. It is -dug out of the soft stone which abounds in this -country and lined with a thick layer of cement.</p> - -<p>No less interesting is the cool, fragrant wine -cellar. Here immense casks made of red wood -stand upright, holding some of them, thirty -gallons of wine.</p> - -<p>When California was wild, the entire state -was one sweet bee garden. Wherever a bee -might fly, within the confines of this virgin -wilderness, from forest to plain, from mountain -to valley, from leafy glen to piny slope, -chalices laden with golden nectar greeted him.</p> - -<p>Those halcyon days of our humble brown -friend are past. The plow and the sheep have -played havoc with those once beautiful gardens. -Now the lonely bee who would his trade pursue -must fly far afield.</p> - -<p>Traveling east and south from San Francisco, -the fruit ranches are soon left behind and -we enter the wheat district. Here we find no -irrigation ditches. Every farm has a wind-mill, -which pumps water for the stock and also for -the orchard and garden. The yield of wheat is -low, averaging only about twenty-five bushels -to the acre.</p> - -<p>This wheat is not used in the United States,<span class="pagenum">[190]</span> -being of a lower grade than Minnesota and Dakota -wheat. It is shipped to the eastern -markets, China, Japan and the Philippines.</p> - -<p>We traveled one hundred and fifty miles -through this district during the harvest. -The combined harvester and thresher, drawn -by forty mules, cuts a wide swath, threshes -the grain at once, sacks it and dumps -it on the ground ready for shipment. -The wheat ripens during the dry season and so -thoroughly that it can be threshed immediately -after cutting. As the farmer has no fear of -rain at this time of the year, he lets the sacks -lie in the field until he is ready to sell.</p> - -<p>The islands of the San Joaquin river are -wonderfully fertile and many of them are under -cultivation. The uncultivated islands produce -every year a dense growth of bulrushes. Efforts -have been made to utilize these in various -ways.</p> - -<div id="ii191" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i191.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">WAWONA VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_191" class="pagenum">[191]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XV<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">YOSEMITE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Leaving the San Joaquin valley and its vast -wheat fields we take the stage at Berenda and -head direct for the snow-capped Sierras. Gold -mines now claim attention and we stop at Grub -Gulch. “The diggins” here are not very rich -and we journey on over the low foot hills to -King’s Gulch, where a rich quartz lode is being -profitably worked by electricity.</p> - -<p>The drowse of a July noontide is in the air. -Rattlesnakes wriggle through the short, dry -grass. The Indians say that for every man a -rattlesnake kills he gains a rattle. Most minds -become panic stricken at the sight of a rattlesnake. -Not so poor Lo, he slays his enemy and -counts his rattles.</p> - -<p>Three hundred miles southeast of San Francisco -in the Sierra Nevada mountains lies the -beautiful valley of Ahwahne, where Diana herself -might deign to follow the chase, for noble -game roam these Arcadian wilds, where giant<span class="pagenum">[192]</span> -sugar pines and silver firs lend beauty to the -landscape.</p> - -<p>Higher up and nearer the heart of the mountains -lies another lovely vale called the Indian’s -Wawona, where dwelt Naiads, Fauns and all -their kindred tribe,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Upon a time, before the fairy broods -</div><div class="indent0">Drove Nymph and Satyr from the prosperous woods, -</div><div class="indent0">Before King Oberon’s bright diadem, -</div><div class="indent0">Scepter and mantle clasp’d with dewy gem. -</div><div class="indent0">Frighted away the Dryads and the Fauns -</div><div class="indent0">From rushes green and brakes and cowslipped lawns.” - -</div><div class="indent9">—<span class="smcap">Keats.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>Here Jove himself treads not and forbears to -hurl a thunderbolt.</p> - -<p>A bird’s flight beyond this playground of the -fairies, deep in the shady wood of the great -sugar pines of Mariposa county are the giant -Sequoias, “the big trees.” The Indians called -them Waw Nonas, Big Trees.</p> - -<p>Five thousand years ago they struck their -tiny roots deep into the soil of the mountains. -Before Columbus was born they tossed their -giant branches against the mountain storms. -They have seen the passing of the Indian and -the coming of the white man.</p> - -<div id="ii193" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i193.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">OLDEST LOG CABIN IN THE SEQUOIA GROVE, MARIPOSA COUNTY -CALIFORNIA. OLD COLUMBIA IN THE FOREGROUND.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the æons of past centuries there were about -thirty species of this genus scattered over the<span class="pagenum">[193]</span> -earth. In Asia fossilized specimens of cones, -foliage and wood have been found. To-day -there are but two living specimens of these trees -on earth, the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Sequoia gigantea</i> and the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Sequoia -sempervirens</i>, or redwood. The former are to -be found only in the Sierras, while the latter -grows only on the Coast range, and all in California. -The largest tree in the Sequoia grove -in Mariposa county measures one hundred and -eighty feet in circumference and three hundred -and sixteen feet in height.</p> - -<p>This, the largest tree in the world, has been -named Columbia.</p> - -<p>The YoSemite, the most wonderful of all -valleys, lies hidden deep in the heart of the -Sierras. It detracts something from the romance -of the musical Spanish when one learns -that YoSemite is only Spanish for grizzly bear. -The first white men to enter the valley were -looking for bear, not scenery.</p> - -<p>This wonderful valley, this marvelous gorge, -“touched by a light that hath no name, a glory -never sung,” is a puzzle to geologists. It is a -granite-walled chasm in the very heart of the -mountains. The solid rock walls have split in -half, one-half dropping out of sight, leaving -only this beautiful valley to tell the tale.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[194]</span></p> - -<p>Down the dark, frowning walls, which rise -sheer from three to five thousand feet, -plunge numerous waterfalls which leap two -thousand feet at a bound. Through the -valley flows the Merced river. Its water, -clear as crystal, is full of that most delicious -of all fish, mountain trout. A more pellucid -stream does not flow on this continent. Up in -the mountain the Merced river is a wild, roaring -torrent, but through the valley it flows -placidly over its white pebble bed, bathing the -brown roots of the trees that fringe its banks. -The trout float lazily along, leaping up to catch -the insects that fly over the water, or sleeping -in quiet pools and shady nooks along the bank. -Here the cook drops his line out of the kitchen -window and hooks trout for our breakfast.</p> - -<p>The air is fragrant with the odor of many -blossoms. The murmur of YoSemite falls lulls -one to sleep as it goes leaping down five thousand -feet over the granite wall to the pool below, -clashing with spray the flowers that bloom -on its banks.</p> - -<p>YoSemite is truly a valley with little suggestion -of the cañon about it. The Half Dome -towering high above almost conceals the trench -of the river, and the gorge of Tenaya creek.<span class="pagenum">[195]</span> -Several thousand broad acres spread out in a -level tract on its long narrow bottom.</p> - -<div id="ii195" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i195.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">HALF DOME AND MERCED RIVER.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>El Capitan is the monarch of the world of -rocks. A solid mass of granite, towering skyward -three-fifths of a mile, barren except for -one lone tree, an alligator pine, one hundred -and twenty-seven feet high, growing on a narrow -ledge, in a niche a thousand feet above its -base. Its rugged face, one and one-half miles -across, kissed to a soft creamy whiteness by the -suns of summer and the snows of winter. That -is El Capitan, the wonder of the world. The -Indians call it Tutockahnulah, in honor of their -greatest chief.</p> - -<p>Scarred and hoary, the Three Brothers stand -like severe hierophants, looking down into this -mysterious vale.</p> - -<p>That marvel of lakes, Mirror lake, called by -the Indians Sleeping Water, adds beauty to this -wonderful valley, so placid, so clear the water -that the rocky wall and every tree and shrub -on its banks lie on the bosom of the water as -if reflected in a mirror.</p> - -<p>“Aloft on sky and mountain wall are God’s -great pictures hung.”</p> - -<p>The legend of the lovely falls called Bridal -Veil runs in this wise:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[196]</span></p> - -<p>Centuries ago there lived in this valley one -Tutockahnulah and his tribe. One day while -out hunting, he met the spirit of the valley, -Tisayac. From that moment he knew -no peace. He neglected his people and -spent his time in dreaming of lovely Tisayac. -She was fair, her skin was white and the sun -had kissed her hair to a golden brown. Her -eyes reflected heaven’s own blue. Her silvery -speech like a bird’s song led him to her, but -when he opened his eyes she vanished into the -clouds.</p> - -<p>The beautiful YoSemite valley being neglected -by Tutockahnulah, became a desert and -a waste. When Tisayac returned she wept at -the sight of her beloved valley. On the dome -of a mighty rock she knelt and prayed the Good -Manitou to restore the valley. In answer to her -prayer the Great Spirit spread the floor of the -valley with green and smiting the mountains -broke a channel for the melting ice and snow. -The waters went leaping down and formed a -lake. The birds again sang and the flowers -bloomed. The people returned and gave the -name Tisayac to the great rock where she -had knelt.</p> - -<div id="ii197" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i197.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MERCED RIVER, YOSEMITE VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[197]</span></p> - -<p>When the chief came home and learned that -Tisayac had returned to the valley his love -grew stronger day by day. One morning he -climbed to the crest of a rock that towers three -thousand feet above the valley and carved his -likeness on it that his memory might live forever -among his people. There is to this day a -face on this rock, but whether carved there by -the hand of man or by nature in some of her -wild moods, remains a mystery.</p> - -<p>Resting at the foot of the Bridal Veil Falls, -one evening Tutockahnulah saw a rainbow -arching around the form of Tisayac. She beckoned -him to follow her. With a wild cry he -sprang into the water and disappeared with -Tisayac. Two rainbows now instead of one -tremble over the falling water.</p> - -<p>At the upper end of the valley stands a giant -monolith two hundred feet in height, called by -the Indians, Hummoo, the Lost Arrow.</p> - -<p>Many thousands of snows ago before the -foot of white man had trod these romantic -wilds there dwelt in this valley the Ahwahnes, -the fairest of whose daughters was Teeheeneh. -Her hair, black as the raven’s wing, unlike that -of her sisters, fell in ripples below her slender<span class="pagenum">[198]</span> -waist. Her sun-kissed cheeks and teeth like -pearls added beauty to a form graceful as that -of a young gazelle.</p> - -<p>Kossookah, the bravest and handsomest warrior -of his tribe, came a wooing the beautiful -princess, wooed and won her.</p> - -<p>All that delightful summer time these two, -favored of the gods, rambled over the mountains.</p> - -<p>The wild torrents sang of the love of Kossookah, -the brave, for Teeneeneh, the beautiful. -The river murmured it; the lonely mountains -echoed the refrain; the very leaves of the -trees whispered it; the plumy children of the air -gossiped about it, while each sun of the starry -sky repeated the story.</p> - -<p>Time sped on golden wings, the mountains -took on autumn tints, winter was approaching. -Every member of the tribe lent a hand to assist -in building a wigwam for the fair princess and -her knight.</p> - -<div id="ii199" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i199.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">YOSEMITE FALLS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nuptials were to be celebrated with many -ceremonies and a great feast. Teeheeneh assisted -by her companions would grind the -acorns into flour for the wedding cakes and -gather nuts, herbs and autumn leaves with -which to garnish and decorate the tables; while<span class="pagenum">[199]</span> -Kossookah with the chosen hunters of his tribe -would scale the cliffs or climb the walls of the -cañon to the mountain fastness in search of -game.</p> - -<p>The primitive home is completed. Kossookah -and his braves depart. At set of sun he -will repair to the head of the YoSemite falls -and report the success of the hunt to Teeheeneh -who would climb the rocks to the foot of the -falls to receive it.</p> - -<p>The messenger was to be an arrow to which -Kossookah would attach feathers of the grouse. -From his strong bow he would speed it far out -that Teeheeneh might see it, watch for its falling, -recover it and read the message.</p> - -<p>The day was propitious. Seldom did an arrow -miss its mark. Evening came and the -hunters had more game than they could carry -down in one trip.</p> - -<p>Long ago in another clime Plautus said, -“whom the gods love die young.”</p> - -<p>Kossookah, proud of his success, repaired to -the edge of the cliff beyond the falls, prepared -the arrow, set it against the string of buffalo -hide, stepped forward, when the cliff began to -tremble and went down, carrying the brave -Kossookah with it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[200]</span></p> - -<p>Long and lovingly did Teeheeneh wait for -the signal. Night wrapped the mountains in -gloom, but still Teeheeneh waited and wondered. -Could Kossookah be dead? Had the -chase led him so far away that he could not -return in time to keep his word to Teeheeneh? -He might even now be coming down the Indian -cañon.</p> - -<p>This new thought lent hope, and hope wings -to the flying feet of Teeheeneh. From rock to -rock, from ledge to ledge she sped with tireless -feet, escaping many perils she reached the foot -of the cliff.</p> - -<p>Finding no trace of Kossookah she paced the -sands all the long weary night, hoping against -hope that every hour would bring some tidings -of her beloved.</p> - -<p>The pain at her heart increased with the -hours, as she sang in the low soft voice of her -race a passionate love song. The gray dawn -found her still pacing the sands.</p> - -<p>Now, like a deer she springs over the rocks -and up the steep ascent to the spot from -whence the signal arrow was to wing its way to -her feet.</p> - -<div id="ii201" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i201.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">EL CAPITAN.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Ah, there were tracks in the sand, his tracks, -but her call was answered only by the echo of<span class="pagenum">[201]</span> -her own sad voice. A new fracture marked a -recent cleavage in the rocks. Could it be, Oh, -Great Spirit could it be that her beloved had -gone down with the rocks and perished. Her -heart was almost stilled with agonizing fear. -She faltered a moment only. Gathering -courage she leaned over the edge of the cliff. -There, stilled in death, lay the form of Kossookah, -in a hollow at the base of the monolith.</p> - -<p>The shock had cleared her mind. Hastily -and with steady hands now she builds a signal -fire on the rocky cliff. The fire by its intensity -interpreted in the light of Indian signal fires, -calls for aid in distress. Slowly the hours -drag by. At last help arrives. Young saplings -of tamarack are lashed together, end to end, -with thongs of deer skin. When all is ready -Teeheeneh springs forward and begs that no -hands save hers shall touch her beloved dead. -Slowly strong hands lower her to the side of the -prostrate form of Kossookah.</p> - -<p>Kissing the pale lips of the dead warrior -Teeheeneh unbinds the deer thongs from about -her own body. Silently and deftly she winds -them about the prostrate form of Kossookah. -At a signal from Teeheeneh the lifeless body -is drawn up. Again the improvised rope is<span class="pagenum">[202]</span> -lowered. Teeheeneh nervously clutches the -pole, puts her foot in the rawhide loop and -waves her hand as a signal to be drawn up.</p> - -<p>Long and silently she gazes into the once love -lit eyes of her dead hero. Her slight body -sways and trembles like a reed swept by the -wintry wind. Still silent, she sinks quivering -on the bosom of her beloved. Gently they raise -her, but her heart had broken and her soul -taken its flight.</p> - -<p>The fateful arrow was never found. The -Indians say that it was spirited away by Teeheeneh -and Kossookah and kept by them as -a memento of their plighted troth and the close -of their life on earth.</p> - -<p>On gossamer floats, their souls were carried, -by unseen hands over the mountains to the -Elysian Plains beyond, where there are no pitfalls -and no broken hearts.</p> - -<p>Hummoo, the Lost Arrow, still stands, a -monument to the brave Kossookah.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>See, “In The Heart of the Sierras,” by J. M. Hutchings. -Mr. Hutchings lived twenty-five years in the YoSemite -Valley and knows this, the most beautiful, wild, -and romantic spot on the American Continent, in all its -varying moods of summer calm and wintry storm, and -writes of it with a loving and sympathetic touch.</p></div> - -<div id="ii203" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i203.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">BRIDAL VEIL FALLS AND THE THREE BROTHERS (SOLID ROCK).</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[203]</span></p> - -<p>Of all the beautiful places in the world for a -schoolhouse, surely “The Valley” is the most -beautiful. One rarely hears YoSemite on the -coast. It is always with a lingering caress in -the voice, “The Valley.” A dainty little white -schoolhouse stands in a grove on the border of -a glade. Here school is in session six months -of every summer. The valley is only seven -miles long and one and a half miles in width -at its widest point.</p> - -<p>There are usually only five or six children of -school age in the valley, but in the spring and -summer people come into the valley to spend the -summer. Many camp while others live at the -hotel and in cottages. In many instances their -children have left their home school before its -close, and in order to make their grades for the -ensuing year, attend “The Valley School.”</p> - -<p>Here the student of botany may find dainty -asters, tiny wild peas, larkspur, monkey flowers, -great ferns, the leaves two or three feet -long; wild poppies, delicate sunflowers, purple -gilias and broad faced primroses. Fiery castillèjas -lend color to gray rocks and shady -nooks.</p> - -<p>Stately pines, silver firs and graceful tamaracks<span class="pagenum">[204]</span> -stand massy, tall and dark, make a landscape -Mercury himself might pause to behold, -no matter how urgent his errand.</p> - -<p>The Manzanita trees are now loaded with fruit. -Manzanita is Spanish for little apple. The -fruit of the tree is a perfect apple about the size -of a gooseberry. Leather wood, a strange -shrub naked as to leaves but abloom with bright -yellow blossoms grows up in the mountains.</p> - -<p>For the student of zoology there are the bears -which have their dens in the rocks a short distance -from the school. Wild deer and lion -roam the mountains, while trout disport themselves -in the Merced river near by.</p> - -<p>The student of astronomy may see the sun -rise five times every morning, and the White -Fire Maiden, by mortals called the moon, lights -up YoSemite falls and the north wall of the valley -long before she appears in the blue sea -above.</p> - -<p>The student in trigonometry will easily find -a summer’s work, the geologist a life-time -study, while the anthropologist will be interested -in the few Indians who inhabit the valley.</p> - -<p>The valley is not without its early history -when white man and Indian fought for supremacy.</p> - -<div id="ii205" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i205.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MIRROR LAKE, SLEEPING WATER.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[205]</span></p> - -<p>One of the brightest pupils in the primary -class is a little Indian girl. This daughter of -the red man reads well and is very proud of -her accomplishment. She learned the multiplication -table before the other members of her -class, but does not apply it so readily.</p> - -<p>“Tempus Fugit,” we bid farewell to YoSemite, -lovely vale, and take the trail over the -mountains. The hour was morning’s prime.</p> - -<p>Up we go three thousand feet, mules, guides -and tourists, over a narrow trail that runs along -the rocky ledge of the gorge. The purple atmosphere -hangs like a veil over the wild cañon -down which sweeps the Merced river, dashing -and sparkling over rocks, tumbling over precipices -or placidly flowing over its smooth rock -bed.</p> - -<p>Far above a red flame swept and we caught -the odor of Calypso’s fire of cedar wood. The -rising smoke mingled with the blue haze above, -while the fire swept on, leaving only the blackened, -charred remains of the once green forest -to tell the tale.</p> - -<p>Naiads danced in the sunny water and once -methought I heard the soft, low strains of a -flute played by a faun in the cool shadows of -the trees which overhang the river’s brink.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[206]</span></p> - -<p>Not a faun did we see, however, but we met -a fool, forsooth, a motley, merry fool. This fool -had a silken scarf draped about his foolish head -to ward off the warm glances of Old Sol as he -peered down the gorge to see what the fool -was about. He tripped lightly along, did this -merry fool, slipping past the sturdy little mules -and their riders on the trail so narrow that one -foot of the rider hung over the gorge below, -so narrow in many places that one misstep of -the faithful little beast meant death to himself -and his rider. Past the forty tourists went this -untiring fool, frightening the animals and -alarming their riders with his strange headdress.</p> - -<p>Where were the guides? Right there saying -things about the fool, quieting the animals -and calming the fears of their riders.</p> - -<p>When this remarkably agile fool had reached -the head of the caravan, down he would drop in -the shade of a tree, his feet dangling in the dust -of the trail, his Turkish headdress fluttering in -the breeze, again causing the weary climbers -to pause. Not every animal paused to look at -the fool, the older ones were wiser.</p> - -<div id="ii207" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i207.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">YOSEMITE FALLS, SHOWING FLOOR OF THE VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The blue sky, the odor of the pines and the -falling, gurgling, murmuring water lent an<span class="pagenum">[207]</span> -enchantment to the air, which made us forget -the fool, but for a moment only. Here he came -again. Untiringly he followed us to the summit -of the mountains, eight thousand feet above -the sea, where the soft ambient soothes like a -benediction, and the soul uplifts in prayer.</p> - -<p>As these high altitudes make many people -ill we were advised to carry with us a bit of the -joyful. Arrived at the summit a dainty flask -slipped from the folds of a lady’s gown and fell -to the earth with a thud. One of the guides -picked it up and gravely presented it to the -owner with the remark, “Madam, you have -lost something valuable.”</p> - -<p>As we stood looking down through the blue -mist into the YoSemite below us—a landscape -that would have delighted the heart and eye of -a Homer—a quaint old lady who had braved -the trail that she might view the valley from -glacial point, exclaimed:</p> - -<p>“It’s lovely, ain’t it? Heaven don’t need -to be no purtier and I don’t reckon it is, do -you? Purty name, too, but I never kin remember -whether it’s Yo-se-mite or Yu-summit.”</p> - -<p>A personally conducted party arrived just -ahead of us. Mr. Personally, as we dubbed the -conductor, was a gentleman, so he informed us,<span class="pagenum">[208]</span> -of many qualities. His voice was loud and -commanding, he was exceedingly voluble, and -from the manner in which he hurried his party -about I should say that he was a man of much -energy.</p> - -<p>He came flying into the ladies’ private boudoir -regardless of the confusion of shirt waists, -ties, collars and riding habits that were flying -through the air, commanding the ladies of his -party to hasten to the dining-room for -luncheon.</p> - -<p>That repast served, Mr. Personally Conductor -ordered up the stages which were in -waiting to take us down the mountains on the -other side. After ordering everyone else to -stand back he ordered his party to “climb in,” -which they meekly did.</p> - -<p>We sat under a clump of silver firs thoroughly -enjoying the scene and calm in the consciousness -that as the transportation company -had carried us to the top of the mountains it -was in duty bound to carry us down, either by -stage coach, mule back or by rope and tackle, -over the rocky ledge and drop us three thousand -feet to the valley below.</p> - -<div id="ii209" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i209.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">SUNRISE IN YOSEMITE VALLEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Two coaches were filled with “personally -conducted” when the third drove up to the veranda.<span class="pagenum">[209]</span> -Mr. Personally not being in sight the -driver requested us to take seats in the coach, -as it was growing late and time we were off.</p> - -<p>A brilliant man of our party, a New York -lawyer, had just taken a seat by the driver, -when that remarkable conductor appeared and -sprang into the seat between them, pushing at -Mr. Lawyer and calling lustily for Dr. Bluker, -who was a member of his party. The doctor -responded and grabbed our lawyer friend by the -leg, attempting to pull him down.</p> - -<p>Mr. Lawyer turned to Mr. Personally, saying, -“I don’t know who you are sir, but—”</p> - -<p>“I am a gentleman, sir,” hastily replied the -conductor.</p> - -<p>“Ah,” exclaimed the lawyer at this astonishing -bit of news, “I am always glad to meet a -gentleman,” and at his wife’s solicitation -bowed gracefully, relinquishing the seat to Dr. -Bluker, a college president who for the moment -might have been taken for Sitting Bull, chief -of the Sioux.</p> - -<p>Ah, good people,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“A chiel’s amang you taking notes, -</div><div class="indent0">And, faith, he’ll prent it.” -</div></div></div></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_210" class="pagenum">[210]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVI<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The descent lay through groves of pine and -cedar, beds of beautiful flowers, grassy glades, -mountain brooks, tiny lakes, springs of ice cold -water, and acres and acres of azaleas.</p> - -<p>In the center of a green glade lay a big brown -bowlder surrounded by flowers. Just under -the side of this bowlder was a spring of ice cold -water.</p> - -<p>Just as the sun was sliding down the western -horizon beyond the snow-capped peaks we arrived -again in Wawona valley, where the -evening was spent in telling stories and relating -adventures.</p> - -<p>“When in London recently,” said our -lawyer friend, “Chauncey Depew told this -story:</p> - -<p>“At a hotel where he was dining the waitress -said to a young man, ‘We have blackberry -pie, peach pie, plum pie, strawberry pie and custard -pie.’</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[211]</span></p> - -<p>“‘Bring me some plum pie and some peach -pie, yes, and I’ll take some blackberry pie.’ -As the waitress turned to fill the order the -young man called her back, ‘You may bring -me some strawberry pie, too.’</p> - -<p>“‘What’s the matter with the custard pie?’ -inquired she.</p> - -<p>“The next morning Mr. Depew met a young -Englishman on the street, who complimented -him on his speech, saying that he really liked it -very, very much, you know, but he would like -to ask him one question, ‘What was the matter -with the custard pie?’”</p> - -<p>When the laugh had subsided a young lady -in a pink shirt waist leaned forward in her -chair, and looking earnestly at the lawyer, -softly inquired, “Well, what was?”</p> - -<p>In the laugh which followed, the Englishman’s -stupidity was lost sight of in astonishment -at that of the American girl.</p> - -<p>“Excuse me,” said a well dressed lady to me -one morning at the hotel in Wawona, “I am -a little hazy on my geography, but what I want -to know is this—if I go to Denver will I be in -Colorado?”</p> - -<p>After a week’s fishing, dreaming and resting -in this beautiful valley, we returned to the -coast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[212]</span></p> - -<p>All up and down the Pacific coast as well as -the islands of the sea are wonderful floating -gardens. These gardens are composed of -kelp, which attached to the bottom and to the -rocks, grows from fifty to one hundred feet -long, throwing out broad leaves and balloon-like -air bulbs which support them. A perfect -forest of broad green leaves rise upward, presenting -a sharp contrast to the blue water in -which they grow. Gracefully turning with -every movement of the water they are among -the most strikingly beautiful objects of salt -sea. When near the shore these huge plants -assume an upright position and become floating -gardens in very truth, through which vessels -plow with much difficulty.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the bay at Santa Barbara -is a perfect maze of floating sea-weed. The -leaves are covered with patches of color, representing -parasitic animals, or plants, greens, -reds, purples and yellows, a perfect maze of -color.</p> - -<p>Delicate sea anemones looking exactly like -their namesakes on land. The slightest noise -causes them to close up, withdrawing their tentacles, -and presently blooming out again.</p> - -<p>Here are tiny plant-like animals growing in<span class="pagenum">[213]</span> -shrub-like forms. Wonderful jellyfish, too, -fill the ocean at night with a phosphorescent -light.</p> - -<p>In place of birds and insects in a sea garden -we find shell animals, crabs and fishes clinging -to the leaves. Along comes a big octopus -throwing out his eight sucker-lined arms in -search of food. Disturbed, he throws out an -inky fluid, and while you are searching the -black hole for him, he slips away. Yonder -comes a nautilus holding his shell high over his -head, crawling lazily along. Black-hued echini, -bristling with pins and needles which, waving -to and fro, ward off their enemies. Fish of -all sorts and sizes inhabit the sea garden. -The beautiful gold and silver fishes gliding in -and out remind one of the birds flitting from -tree to tree. In comes a big fish, the king of the -bass, and the “small fry” scatter right and left. -At night these strange gardens are aglow with -phosphorescent lights.</p> - -<p>Los Angeles has been having a succession of -earthquakes.</p> - -<p>The houses in San Francisco as well as other -coast towns are built to withstand earthquake -shocks. On this account very few brick are -used. An earthquake hotel is advertised. In<span class="pagenum">[214]</span> -this city, too, one may eat Pasteurized ice-cream -without fear of the deadly ptomain.</p> - -<p>An orange, as every one knows, is a difficult -fruit to eat gracefully, but I’ve learned how to -do it in this land of the citron. A gentleman -assured me that the only proper place to eat an -orange was in the bathtub.</p> - -<p>Up and down the length of this coast I’ve -not been able to get a decent lemonade. Very -few places serve that drink at all. Drinks -there are plenty, but no lemonade. Now I know -what those warnings mean which hang up in -every stateroom on the steamers: “Passengers -strictly prohibited from getting into bed with -their boots on.”</p> - -<p>California is rich in stories of her early days. -Just east of San Francisco lies a narrow valley -bordering on the bay of San Pablo. The first -white man to enter this valley was one Miguel -and his wife, who named it El Hambre (Hunger) -valley.</p> - -<p>Miguel built an adobe hut and planted a garden. -Later he started to San Francisco, for -supplies. Madam Miguel remained at home to -tend the garden. Miguel would return in three -weeks and all would be well.</p> - -<p>Time passed slowly to the lonely woman.<span class="pagenum">[215]</span> -When the three weeks had passed Emilia -packed a burro and started out on the trail -which her husband had taken. At night she -tethered the burro and rolled in her blanket -slept by the roadside. Dawn saw her on the -trail. The third day her burro neighed and -was answered by a donkey which proved to be -that of Miguel. Hurrying on she found her -husband lying on the roadside, dead. She remained -there until the sun set, then covered him -with a blanket and returned home.</p> - -<p>Later some traders wandering through the -valley found her skeleton in the garden. The -adobe still stands in the now new town of -Martinez.</p> - -<p>Dick Brown, miner of Misery Hill, was a -sort of recluse, who never made any friends -among the miners of the Eldorado of the west.</p> - -<p>One day while out prospecting, a landslide -carried him down the valley and buried him beneath -it. His body was recovered and buried, -but his ghost walked nightly at the foot of the -old shaft.</p> - -<p>A lazy, seemingly good-for-nothing sort of a -fellow, Wilson by name, began work in -Brown’s mine. It was a good mine and paid -Wilson well until some one else began working<span class="pagenum">[216]</span> -it. Every morning there was evidence that -some one had been at work during the night.</p> - -<p>One night Wilson loaded his rifle and waited -for his nightly intruder. Hearing a noise he -started to follow it up.</p> - -<p>What was that on yonder tree, which glowed -with a phosphorescent light? Wilson crept -nearer. There, tacked on a big tree, was a -notice, “D. B. his mine. Hands off.”</p> - -<p>A moment later the notice was gone. -As he passed on he heard the water -flowing through the sluice and the sound of a -pick in the gravel. There stood Dick Brown. -Wilson raised his rifle and fired. A yell, and -the ghost of Dick Brown came flying after him -as he ran down the hill.</p> - -<p>The next morning a pick and shovel were -found by the roadside bearing the initials -“D. B.” cut on the handle of each. Wilson deserted -the claim, but the sluice on Misery Hill -ran on for many years.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_217" class="pagenum">[217]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">HERE AND THERE ON THE COAST.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Leaving San Francisco, a sail of twenty-five -miles brings us to the grimly fortified island -of Alcatraz, the watch dog of the Golden Gate.</p> - -<p>Forty miles inland lies the beautiful Napa -Valley. Farm houses and villages dot the -landscape. Orchards, vineyards and fields of -waving grain heighten the natural beauty of -this Rasselas Valley, rich in groves of oak trees -from which depend festoons of mistletoe, -meadows and running brooks.</p> - -<p>At the head of this valley stands Mount St. -Helena, once a center of volcanic action. Wasnossensky, -the Russian naturalist ascended to -its summit in 1841, and named it in honor of -his empress, leaving on the summit a copper -plate bearing the name of himself and his -companion.</p> - -<p>The Russians, with a view to commercial -and political aggrandisement, did a great deal<span class="pagenum">[218]</span> -of exploring in California in the early days of -her history.</p> - -<p>By stage we travel through the Napa Valley -to the geyser fields. On either hand are groves -of redwood trees, cousins of the Giant Sequoias. -In the springtime the odor of the -buckeye fills the delicious morning air, just now -the handsome eschscholtzias, commonly called -the California poppy, brighten the meadows. -Here and there lichen stained rocks lend a -deeper tone to the landscape.</p> - -<p>Through this valley of strange wild beauty -we arrive at the Devil’s Cañon. The nomenclature -of this weird place is something audacious -and one wishes that he might change it. -Here the hero of the cañon has his kitchen, his -soup bowl, his punch bowl, and his ink pot. In -this spring you might dip your pen and write -tales of magic that would rival those of India.</p> - -<p>Here, one dreary night, a lonely discouraged -miner who had lost his way, sat in meditation, -when presently a strangely clad figure approached -him. The dark face wore a sinister -expression, black eyes sparkled under villainous -brows.</p> - -<p>“Ha, ha, ha,” laughed the stranger when he -discovered the miner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[219]</span></p> - -<p>“What would’st thou? Riches? Sign here -and they are thine, or thou may’st toss me into -yon caldron.”</p> - -<p>Flinging aside the long black cloak that enveloped -his figure he stood forth, his scarlet -robes gleaming a fiery red in the black night.</p> - -<p>“Sign here,” and dipping his fire tipped pen -into the ink pot he thrust it into the hand of the -astonished miner, presenting a scroll of parchment -for the signature.</p> - -<p>“Ha, ha, ha,” came in tones diabolical, as the -fortune hunter seized the pen in his eager grasp. -Knowing better how to wield the pick than the -pen he seized the scroll and—made the sign of -the cross.</p> - -<p>His Satanic Majesty gave an unearthly yell, -seized the pen and scroll, and disappeared leaving -his ink-pot behind.</p> - -<p>The prevailing rocks are metamorphic, sandstone, -silicious slates and serpentine. The -stratification dips sharply to the bed of Pluton -Creek.</p> - -<p>There are no spouting geysers here, only -bubbling springs, but springs of beauty and interest. -Here lies one, its waters a creamy -white, and yonder another whose waters are -deeply tinged with sulphur, while those of its<span class="pagenum">[220]</span> -neighbor are as black as the contents of that -bottle the undaunted Luther flung at the head -of his Satanic Majesty on that memorable day.</p> - -<p>The waters of these springs boil over and -mingle as they flow away. Steam jets hiss and -sputter continually. Of the many strange -springs, pools and caverns, the Witch’s Caldron -is perhaps the most remarkable. A very pit of -Acheron, this huge cavern in the solid rock, -seventy feet in diameter, is filled to an unknown -depth with a thick inky fluid, that boils and -surges incessantly. The waters of these springs, -rich in sulphur, iron, lime and magnesia are -said to rival in medicinal qualities those of all -the famous German Spas.</p> - -<p>The geysers are due to both chemical and -volcanic action; to water percolating down -through the fissures of the rocks until it comes -in contact with the heated mass of hot lava; and -to water percolating through the mineral deposits.</p> - -<p>Suffice it to say that you have not seen California -until you have seen the Napa Valley, -and taken the trail to Mount St. Helena and the -geyser fields.</p> - -<p>The very air of this delightful country is -rife with bear stories. Stories in which the<span class="pagenum">[221]</span> -bear quite as often as the hunter comes off -victor.</p> - -<p>A cowboy, newly arrived in California, went -out on a bear hunt. He went alone. He wanted -to kill a grizzly.</p> - -<p>He soon found his bear and lassoed him, but -Bruin, contrary to his usual custom of showing -fight, took a header down a cañon, horse and -rider in full pursuit.</p> - -<p>Upon nearing the foot of the ravine the bear -fell down. The horse fell down and the man -tumbled down on top of the grizzly which so -frightened him that when the three untangled -themselves he set off up the cañon, and the man -let him go. Glad, glad to the heart that he was -gone.</p> - -<p>Assyria had her winged bull, Lucerne has -her lion, and California has her grizzly.</p> - -<p>The grizzly stands for California, and only -awaits some future Thorwaldsen to perpetuate -him on the walls of his own rock-ribbed -cañon.</p> - -<p>The Indians of California were possessed of -many strange superstitions when the Franciscan -Fathers established missions among them.</p> - -<p>The Fathers called it “devil worship,” but -to the simple childlike mind of these primitive<span class="pagenum">[222]</span> -people it was a sort of hero worship, and the -wild child worshiped on despite the Fathers.</p> - -<p>The worship of a god known as Kooksuy -was one to which the Indians held with great -tenacity. The monks had forbidden the worship -of this deity, so Kooksuy had to be worshiped -in secret.</p> - -<p>A lonely, unfrequented place in the mountains -was chosen, and a stone altar was raised -to Kooksuy. This consisted of a pile of flat -stones five or six feet in height.</p> - -<p>It was the duty of every worshipper to toss -something onto the altar as an act of homage. -This act was called “poorish.”</p> - -<p>A Kooksuy altar was a curious affair. The -foundation of stone was frequently hidden -under a mass of beads, feathers and shells. -Even garments and food found their way to the -throne of this strange deity. Thus the altar -continued to rise for no Indian would dare -touch a “poorish” offering.</p> - -<p>The priests destroyed the altars and punished -the worshipers, but that did not destroy their -faith in their god.</p> - -<p>At the missions every Indian retired when -the evening bell rang. When the good alcalde -made his rounds they had counted their beads<span class="pagenum">[223]</span> -and shut their eyes. Ten minutes later half -a dozen dusky forms might be seen creeping -stealthily along in the shadows of the buildings. -Arriving at the chosen spot a big fire was built -around which the faithful Indians danced calling -on their god in a series of weird whistles.</p> - -<p>Kooksuy never failed to appear in the midst -of the fire in the form of a huge white dragon, -but with the destruction of his altars, the -neglect of his worshipers and fear of the white -man Kooksuy appeared less frequently and -finally his visits ceased entirely.</p> - -<p>According to the Indians the Great Manitou -threw up the Sierra Nevada range with his own -hands. Then he broke away the hills at the -foot of the lake and the waters drained into the -sea through the Golden Gate.</p> - -<p>The clouds rested on the water and the setting -sun lit up the Golden Gate with the glory -of the sea as we steamed across the bay and -bade adieu to the land of Pomona and her citron -groves.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_224" class="pagenum">[224]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVIII<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">WALLA WALLA VALLEY</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Walla Walla is so named from its abundant -supply of water. Many little streams run -over the surface and many more under ground. -This valley is noted for the richness of its soil, -which is decomposed lava, and its wonderful -climate. This delightful climate is shorn of its -harshness by the magical breath of the Chinook -wind.</p> - -<p>The principal crop here is wheat. A Walla -Walla ranchman never thinks of planting anything -else. The soil is so easy of cultivation -that all he needs to do is to plow the ground, -sow the wheat and go fishing until it is ready -to harvest. Wheat brings him wealth and -prosperity.</p> - -<p>Every year one-half of a ranch is allowed to -lie fallow, but an Illinois farmer would rotate -crops instead. The fallow fields, however, are -kept perfectly clean and free from weeds.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[225]</span></p> - -<p>During the rainy season the soil, which is -rich in potash and phosphoric acid, stores up -moisture sufficient to mature the wheat. Only -three pecks of wheat are sown to the acre, as -the grain stools very much.</p> - -<p>The average farm contains six hundred -acres, but there are many ranches of from a -thousand to fifteen hundred acres.</p> - -<p>For cutting the grain the old-fashioned -header is used, also the ordinary reaper and -binder, but the combined harvester and thresher -is the king of reapers. It is drawn by from -twenty-five to thirty mules, cuts the grain, -threshes it, sacks it, and dumps it on the ground -ready for shipment.</p> - -<p>Wheat averages from twenty to thirty -bushels to the acre. Some years the average -is much higher. In 1898 wheat went sixty -bushels to the acre.</p> - -<p>The price of land runs from thirty dollars to -sixty dollars per acre. Comfortable homes and -green orchards dot the landscape. The orchards, -however, must be irrigated. The Blue -mountains supply plenty of water for this purpose.</p> - -<p>At the experiment stations established<span class="pagenum">[226]</span> -throughout the semi-arid regions of the west, -investigation of the excessive alkali in the soil -is being carried on.</p> - -<p>In many regions of California and Utah -large tracts of irrigated land are practically -non-productive because of the presence of an -excess of alkali. Investigation has proven that -this is due to excessive irrigation. When -water is applied to the soil it brings to the surface -when it rises, the salts.</p> - -<p>In seeking a remedy for this evil the experiment -stations have demonstrated that in -most instances crops do not require nearly so -much water as is usually applied to them. -Working along practical lines in the solution of -this, to the West, great problem, the stations -hope eventually to show just what quantity -of water a given crop in a given locality requires.</p> - -<p>The establishment of this truth will save -much land now under ditch and extend the area -of irrigation by demonstrating that more land -can be supplied with water from the available -supply.</p> - -<p>In Montana, Idaho, Washington and the -semi-arid districts of other states experiments -are being carried on in the line of forage plants.<span class="pagenum">[227]</span> -In these states success has been quite satisfactory -with the cow pea, which is usually -planted with oats. Red clover flourishes as -well here as in the East.</p> - -<p>Success in farming depends upon a thorough -knowledge of soil, climate and rainfall. The -farmers are coming to depend upon the experiment -stations for much of this knowledge.</p> - -<p>Agriculture was early practiced in this valley, -the Walla Walla region proper being part -of the old Oregon country. The Hudson Bay -Company established posts at the junction of -the Walla Walla and Columbia rivers, at Fort -Vancouver on the Columbia river and at Fort -Colville in the Colville valley, north of the -present city of Spokane. With these people -agriculture and the fur trade went hand in hand. -In 1828 seven hundred bushels of wheat were -raised at Fort Vancouver and in 1829 seventy -acres were under cultivation at Fort Colville.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_228" class="pagenum">[228]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIX<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">HISTORICAL REFERENCES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Just as a Bede Bible and a “quart of seed -wheat” saved the British Isles to Christianity; -so “the Book” and another “quart of seed -wheat” carried in by the Reverend Spalding, -saved Oregon to the United States, notwithstanding -the Russian Bear, the British Lion -and the bull of Alexander the VI. in which he -delivered over all North America to Spain.</p> - -<p>“Good old times those were when kings -thrust their hands into the New World, as -children do theirs into a grab bag at a fair, and -drew out a river four thousand miles long, or an -ocean, or a tract of wild land ten or fifteen -times the size of England.”</p> - -<p>The king of Spain sold Louisiana to France -for money to buy his daughter a wedding -present and for one brief while France had -hopes of planting her lilies in the Walla Walla -Valley. France, however, had met her Waterloo -in America, on the Plains of Abraham.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[229]</span></p> - -<p>Then came England denying the validity of -the old Franco-Spanish title under which we -claimed the Oregon country, but the same -policy that lost to Great Britain her thirteen -colonies, lost to her this princely domain.</p> - -<p>American and English settlements contrasted -strangely. The one emigrant came with his -traps and snares, the other with his plow and -quart of seed wheat. The one came for the -fortune which he might carry out of the -country, the other to make a home for himself -and his children. So, the English trapper with -his snares and the Indian with his pogamoggan -retreated before the advance of American -civilization.</p> - -<p>In 1836 Mrs. Whitman, wife of Dr. Whitman, -wrote from Fort Vancouver that the -Hudson Bay Co. had that year four thousand -bushels of wheat, four thousand bushels of -peas and fifteen hundred bushels of oats and -barley, besides many root vegetables, also poultry, -cattle, hogs and sheep.</p> - -<p>The metropolis of the valley is Walla Walla. -It is a well-built town having a population of -several thousand. Many of the stores and business -blocks are of brick. Its streets are wide. -In the suburbs is a military post, also a college<span class="pagenum">[230]</span> -established by the Congregational church in -honor of Dr. Marcus Whitman, the well known -missionary who was massacred at his mission -near Walla Walla in 1847. So died the brave, -patriotic Whitman.</p> - -<p>In 1813 England, basing her claims on -Drake’s discoveries, captured Astoria and for -years kept her hands on the Oregon country, -to be thwarted at last by one brave American.</p> - -<p>The story of Marcus Whitman’s life should -be enshrined in the heart of every school-boy in -America.</p> - -<p>From the busy thriving city of Spokane, the -center of the agriculture empire of the Pacific -Coast, to Missoula along the headwaters of the -Columbia is a most interesting journey. High -above, the grim Cascades rear their shaggy -heads. Magnificent pines lift their crested -heads skyward. The Columbia, “rock-ribbed -and mighty,” sweeps on, now placidly, now -whirling and eddying, tossing its waters up in -foamy spray, now breaking into white cascades, -beautiful as Schauffhausen on the noble Rhine. -The rugged rocks along the shore are hidden -by festoons of grape and wild honeysuckle -vines, while the bright salmon berry adds a -touch of color.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[231]</span></p> - -<p>Here is a bit of western fiction, a study in evolution -that would interest a Haeckel. These -berries falling into the water float away into -brown pools and shady nooks and there change -into the red fish known as salmon.</p> - -<p>The gentleman who told me this wonderful -tale of magic assured me that it was true, and -that the Fish Commission had made a report of -it. Like the tale of the banshee, however, he -had never seen it but he knew people who had.</p> - -<p>Scientific errors should be corrected, so I -will give you the facts about the salmon trout. -It was that mischievous god Loke, who to escape -the vengeance of Thor hid himself in a -cave, but when he heard the thundering voice -of that noble god,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“He changed himself into a salmon trout -</div><div class="indent0">And leaped in a fright in the Glommen.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>Slippery as a salmon is a common adage in -Norseland.</p> - -<p>The most beautiful spot in this region is -Lake Pend d’Oreille. The scenery of this -lovely lake rivals that of Lake George. Its -blue waters bathe the brown feet of rugged -mountains.</p> - -<p>It is early morning on Lake Pend d’Oreille;<span class="pagenum">[232]</span> -the mountain breeze, the gentle swish of the -water as it laps the shore, the white, -graceful-moving sail-boat all entice you for -a day’s fishing. Tired of this sport you -sail over and rest under the wonderful Blue -Slide. The mountain bordering on the lake at -this point has crumbled away, sending down its -bowlders into the lake. From the boat you look -up a smooth incline plane two thousand feet, -above which rises the precipice itself another -thousand feet. The slide is covered with a pale -blue clay, while the precipice itself is a mixture -of granite and clay tinged with iron. -Large pines grow on the very edge of the precipice.</p> - -<p>The junction of Clear Water and the Snake -rivers in Idaho is a place of historic interest. -We are now in the country traversed by Lewis -and Clarke.</p> - -<p>The history of the great Northwest is wonderfully -fascinating. The history of no part of -this great territory is more tragic than that of -Montana. Her savage tribes, her cosmopolitan -population called into existence by her fur -trade and mining industry, all combined to produce -in Montana a peculiar phase of civilization, -but she has beaten dirks and bowie knives<span class="pagenum">[233]</span> -into plowshares and now follows the gentle arts -of peace. A magnificent mountain range, lovely -valley, beautiful river and a delicate, graceful -flower—Bitter Root. Bitter Root is the state -flower of Montana and lends its name to the -river, mountains and valley of its native heath, -growing most luxuriantly in Bitter Root valley.</p> - -<p>This valley is one of the most beautiful as -well as the most productive in the state. Lying -at the eastern foot of the Bitter Root -Mountains it is shielded from the cold, west -winds. The climate is fine while the soil in -most places is rich and deep. Timothy and -clover grow luxuriantly. Baled hay brings -from seven to ten dollars per ton at the railroad -station. Dairy farming and poultry raising are -profitable industries. Butter sells at forty cents -per pound in the winter and twenty cents in the -summer. Eggs bring the same price. Butte, -Helena and other mining centers supply the -market for Bitter Root Valley.</p> - -<p>Bitter Root orchards are immune from disease. -The leas ophis has appeared but as yet -has done no injury. Bitter Root Mountains -were the stronghold of the Nez Perce Indians.</p> - -<div id="ii233" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i233.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">ENTERING HELL GATE CAÑON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Hell Gate cañon is one of the most picturesque<span class="pagenum">[234]</span> -in the Rocky Mountains. It is wild and -beautiful. Its fir-clad slopes rise thousands of -feet high. A lion steals stealthily along, -noiselessly as Fear herself, owl answers owl -from the tall trees, and soft shadows lend enchantment -to the light of the pale moon that -hurries you along like Porphyro’s poor guide -on the eve of St. Agnes, with agues in your -brain.</p> - -<p>Deer Lodge lies in a beautiful valley, sun-browned -now, with just a hint of autumn’s -grays and purples.</p> - -<p>John Bozeman was a noted frontiersman in -the early days of Montana. His name is perpetuated -by Bozeman’s pass, Bozeman’s creek -and Bozeman city, all in Gallatan valley. -This valley, once the bloody battle-ground of -the Blackfeet, the Bannacks, the Crows and the -Nez Perce Indians is now one of the widest -known and best cultivated in the state.</p> - -<p>Helena, the capital of Montana, is a thriving, -prosperous city. Through the Gate of the -Mountains we enter a little valley called Paradise. -Like a beautiful dream this lovely valley -lies in the cold bosom of the rugged mountains; -which, looming high above, shield it from -the wintry blast.</p> - -<div id="ii235" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i235.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">LIBERTY CAP AND OLD FORT YELLOWSTONE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[235]</span></p> - -<p>Mighty cañons, rock-ribbed, gloomy and -dark, have been gouged out of the very hearts -of the cold, gray mountains that pierce the blue -of heaven. But this sun-lit vale, too fair for -the abode of man, lies just as nature left it, blue -canopied, the cool green grass and murmuring -Yellow Stone.</p> - -<p>The Devil in a merry mood one day, coasted -down the mountain at Cinnebar, scorching -blood red a wide, smooth slide that would delight -the daring heart of a tobogganist.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span id="Page_236" class="pagenum">[236]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XX<br /> -<span class="cheaderfont">YELLOWSTONE PARK</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The artist may paint you a bit of sky, a little -water, a few trees, and mayhap a bluebird -or a merry brown thrush, but can he paint the -gently moving restless air or the storm that -sweeps down the mountainside, the murmur, -the ripple, the roar of the river, the whir of the -bluebird’s wing as it rises to flight, or the -thrush’s song?</p> - -<p>It is beyond the power of brush or pen to -paint the wilderness, the beauty, the weirdness, -the awful grandeur of this land of Malebolge, -sulphurous pits and boiling lakes, a fit dwelling -place for Minos, infernal judge; the elusive -beauty of a playing geyser, the iridescent -sparkle of the water as it leaps the rocky precipice -and pours down the mountain’s great -throat, or the diabolical scene of the famous -Mud Geyser where,—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Bellowing there groaned -</div><div class="indent0">A noise, as of a sea in tempest torn<span class="pagenum">[237]</span> -</div><div class="indent0">By warring wings. The stormy blast of hell -</div><div class="indent0">With restless fury drives the spirits on, -</div><div class="indent0">Whirled round and dashed amain with sore annoy. -</div><div class="indent0">When arriving before the ruinous sweep, -</div><div class="indent0">There shrieks are heard, there lamentations, moans.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>With horrible groanings the thick sulphurous -mass is driven against the sides of the deep -crater.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Wherefore delay in such a mournful place? -</div><div class="indent0">We came within the fosses deep, that moat -</div><div class="indent0">This region comfortless, the walls appeared -</div><div class="indent0">As they were framed in iron, we had made -</div><div class="indent0">Wide circuit ere we reached the place where loud -</div><div class="indent0">The mariner (guide) vehement cried -</div><div class="indent0">‘Go forth, the entrance is here.’” - -</div><div class="indent9">—<span class="smcap">Dante.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<div id="ii237" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i237.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">HOTEL MAMMOTH, HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PARK.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We had circled the Mammoth Hot Springs, -down a way by a ladder we entered the Devil’s -kitchen. This is a defunct geyser. The way -was dark and the air hot as the heat penetrated -the walls from the Hot Springs. The water -of these springs is rich in minerals, copper, iron -and sulphur. As the water boils over and -evaporates it leaves deposits on the rims fretting -them with a delicate frost work of varied -and beautiful hues. Cream and salmon deepening -into rich shades of red, brown, green and -yellow.</p> - -<p>The Cleopatra Spring is one of the most -beautiful. Located on a mound forty feet high<span class="pagenum">[238]</span> -and covering an area of three-quarters of an -acre, the deep blue water, the sparkling white -basin with its pale yellow frost-fretted rim -rivals the touch of the artist’s brush.</p> - -<p>Just below the springs the broad level tract -in front of the United States barracks covers -a treacherous burnt-out area. We were standing -on a veranda of the hotel observing the -maneuvers when one of the cavalry horses -broke through the thin crust. His rider recovered -him and they were off before the treacherous -ground gave way. A rope was brought -and the soldiers lowered one of their comrades, -who dropped thirty-five feet before he struck -a landing place. Investigation showed the entire -platte to be dangerously honeycombed.</p> - -<p>Through the Golden Gate we enter Kingman’s -Pass. The stupendous walls of golden -yellow rock rise sheer hundreds of feet high on -either side.</p> - -<p>Just as we turned a point in the road such -“Ohs” and “Ahs” as the Rustic Falls of the -Gardener River burst on our sight. The river -falls sixty feet into a series of shallow basins -of moss covered rock. To the sides of the -basin cling wavering ferns and delicate spray-kissed -flowers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[239]</span></p> - -<p>The most wonderful mountain in the world -stands on the shore of Beaver Lake. A glass -mountain of pure jet black glass, rising skyward -in basalt like columns from one hundred -to two hundred and fifty feet. The black glass -streaked here and there with red and yellow -glistens in the sunshine as peak and pinnacle -catch, imprison and reflect the sun’s rays.</p> - -<p>Large blocks have become detached from -time to time forming a glass slide into the lake. -Obsidian is a species of lava. Pliny says -this glass was first found in Ethiopia, but -the only glass mountain in the world stands on -the shore of Beaver Lake. The Indians used -this glass for arrow heads and in making sharp-edged -tools.</p> - -<p>The swampy, lily-padded margin of Beaver -Lake is haunted by wild geese. This lake is -the beaver’s own. These industrious little -animals constructed it by damming up Green -Creek for a distance of two miles. Some thirty -dams sweep in graceful curves from side to -side each having a fall from two to six feet.</p> - -<div id="ii239" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i239.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE PARK, JUST BEFORE -AN ERUPTION.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The geyser basins are places of unusual interest -and beauty. No scene in the park is -lovelier than these areas of bubbling pools, boiling -lakes and steaming geysers, at sunrise,<span class="pagenum">[240]</span> -when the columns of white steam, tinged to a -roseate hue by the rising sun, ascending against -the background of dark green pines. Presently,—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“There came o’er the perturbed waves -</div><div class="indent0">Loud-crashing, terrible, a sound that made -</div><div class="indent0">Either shore tremble, as if a wind -</div><div class="indent0">Impetuous, from conflicting vapors sprung, -</div><div class="indent0">That ’gainst some forest driving with all his might, -</div><div class="indent0">Plucks off the branches, beats them down, and hurls -</div><div class="indent0">Afar; then, onward passing proudly sweeps -</div><div class="indent0">His whirlwind rage, while beasts and shepherds fly.” - -</div><div class="indent9">—<span class="smcap">Dante.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>Thus warned we moved away just as Old -Faithful shot his boiling waters skyward.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“Ask thou no more -</div><div class="indent0">Now ’gin rueful wailings to be heard. -</div><div class="indent0">The gloomy region shook so terribly -</div><div class="indent0">That yet with clammy dews chill my brow. -</div><div class="indent0">The sad earth gave a blast.” - -</div><div class="indent9">—<span class="smcap">Dante.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p>And steam and water shot up a column -two hundred feet high. The Giant Geyser was -playing.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“We the circle crossed -</div><div class="indent0">To the next steep, arriving at a well -</div><div class="indent0">That boiling pours itself down a foss -</div><div class="indent0">Sluiced from its source.” - -</div><div class="indent8">—<span class="smcap">Dante.</span> -</div></div></div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[241]</span></p> - -<p>This well is the formidable Excelsior Geyser -which pours its waters into the Fire Hole River.</p> - -<div id="ii241" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i241.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">YELLOWSTONE LAKE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Paint Pots are springs which boil incessantly -their pasty clay, which boiling over -hardens, building up a rim around the pot. In -one group of seventeen pots are as many different -colors.</p> - -<p>The center pot is a pearl gray, while grouped -about it are smaller pots of various shades of -pink, gray, chocolate, yellow, red, lavender, -emerald and sapphire blues and white, mortar -thousands of years old that would make the -heart of a plasterer glad. Here is a plaster -which when hardened, whether by sun or fire, -never cracks.</p> - -<p>Of a somewhat different character are the -chocolate jugs on the banks of the Fire Hole -River. These springs are rich in iron. The -sediment hardens as the water pours out, building -up gradually a brown jug-like cone.</p> - -<p>The Blue Mud Pot is quite as interesting as -the Paint Pots. Its circular basin is twenty -feet in diameter. The mud is about the consistency -of thick plaster. This mud pot presents -a beautiful picture as the puffs of mud -burst with a thud-like noise giving off perfect -little rings which recede to the sides of the<span class="pagenum">[242]</span> -crater. This spring is strongly impregnated -with alum. In this vicinity is a spring of pure -alum water and several of sulphate of copper.</p> - -<p>These springs are clear and deep, having -beautiful basins, the rims of which are lined -with incrustations of brilliant colors.</p> - -<p>In a gloomy wood we came to the Devil’s -frying pan, a shallow, hot, boiling spring which -sputters, sizzles and hisses equal to any old-time, -three legged skillet, sending out sulphurous -odors that would delight the nostrils of -Lucifer himself.</p> - -<p>Hell’s half acre is quite as interesting as its -name. Here in times gone by Excelsior Geyser -shook the earth.</p> - -<p>One lovely morning we mounted to our seats -in the stage coach, the driver cracked his whip -over the heads of the leaders, six creamy white -horses pricked up their ears, sprang forward at -a gallop and we were off to the Continental -Divide.</p> - -<p>We had just crossed a glade where deer were -grazing when a hail storm, a mountain hail -storm, overtook us. In five minutes the ground -was white, the hail laying two inches deep, and -such hail, an Illinois hail storm is tame in comparison.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[243]</span></p> - -<p>The horses plunged forward, the hail was -left behind, and we paused on the Great Divide. -Down from this watershed the waters flow east -and west.</p> - -<p>The lovely Lake Shoshone comes into view -and presently we are standing on its shore looking -down through its blue waters. The elevation -of this lake is greater than that of its royal -neighbor, the Yellowstone.</p> - -<div id="ii243" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i243.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">CAMPING ON THE SHORE OF LAKE YELLOWSTONE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This most lovely of all American lakes, the -Yellow Stone, is perched high in the very heart -of the mountains, its blue waters lapping the -base of cold, snow-capped peaks, rivals in -beauty the far famed Lake Maggiore.</p> - -<p>On these beautiful shores fair Nausicaa -with her golden ball might have deigned to -tread the mazes of the ball-dance.</p> - -<p>The elevation of this lake is marvelous for its -size. Drop Mount Washington, the highest -peak in the White Mountains, into the center of -it and the summit would be swept by a current -half a mile deep.</p> - -<p>This lake affords royal sport. Here are the -most beautiful fish in the world, the rainbow -trout.</p> - -<p>Through a pine-clad gorge flanked by high -bluffs the impetuous Yellowstone River makes<span class="pagenum">[244]</span> -its way until it leaps the great falls and plunges -down three hundred and fifty feet to the cañon -below.</p> - -<p>On the sides of the spray-washed walls grow -mosses and algæ of every hue of green, ochre, -orange, brown, scarlet, saffron and red. On -rugged peaks are brown eagles’ nests.</p> - -<p>The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, -would you describe this marvelous gorge, language -is inadequate, words are poor.</p> - -<p>Would you paint it, on your palette place all -colors yet produced by the ingenuity of man. -Mix them with rainbow drops. The pale faced -moon will lend a shade, the stars another -and the sun still another as he drops -blood-red down through the mists of the sea. -Stir and mix with matchless skill until you have -of colors half a hundred and shades as many -more. Now boldly dash the stupendous walls, -castles, pinnacles, turrets, columns, and minarets -where already they are gleaming a bright -vermilion as they from Vulcan’s fiery furnace -issued long ago.</p> - -<p>When you have these colors fixed let Phaethon -drive down the gorge in his chariot of fire -leaving behind the gleam and the glow of it.</p> - -<div id="ii245" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i245.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">PAINT POTS ON SHORE OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Here, the Sioux chiefs, crouching by their<span class="pagenum">[245]</span> -camp fires muttered their griefs and their woes. -Here Rain in the Face cried out in revenge, -revenge on the White chief with the Yellow -Hair.</p> - -<p>Yonder lay Sitting Bull with his three -thousand warriors hidden in cleft and cave. -Into the fateful snare dashed the White chief -with his pitiful three hundred men. Like a -mountain torrent Sitting Bull and his braves -swept down upon that gallant band, and but one -was left to tell the story of the Little Big Horn, -but one to tell of the gallant stand of Custer and -his brave men.</p> - -<p>Only two survived of all that noble band, -one, Curly, the half-breed scout, and the other, -“Comanche,” the horse of Captain Keogh. -Comanche was found several miles from the -battle field with seven wounds. He recovered -and the secretary of war detailed a soldier as his -attendant.</p> - -<p>Here, too, the Crow took revenge when -driven back by the white man. Here they peopled -the boiling, hissing springs and the steaming -geysers with evil spirits, while beyond the -mountains lay the Happy Hunting Ground.</p> - -<p>A small remnant of this band gathered at the -head of the Grand Cañon and there resolved<span class="pagenum">[246]</span> -with Spartan courage to die rather than be -removed to a distant land there to die of homesickness -and longing for the blue sky and the -breath of the sweet air of their beloved mountains.</p> - -<p>They built a raft and set it afloat at the foot -of the Upper Falls feeling the peace and security -that the mountains give, but they were -rudely awakened one morning by the sharp -crack of the white man’s rifle, the soldiers were -upon them. Hastily boarding their raft they -pushed it out into mid-stream. The strong -current gathered the craft tossing it and pitching -it onward on its foamy crest. The soldiers -gaze in wonder, forgetting to fire. On, on, -faster whirls that frail craft while above the -wild roar of the water floats the death song.</p> - -<p>Beyond, yawns a chasm three hundred and -fifty feet deep, the death chant is lost amidst -the roar of the mighty torrent. The hardened -soldier shudders as that lone adventurous craft, -freighted with the remnant of a powerful people, -is gathered in the arms of that mighty -torrent, hurled over the brink and dashed to -pieces on the cruel rocks below, where the Maid -of the Mist washed white each red man’s soul.</p> - -<div id="ii247" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i247.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GRAND CAÑON OF THE YELLOWSTONE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On June twenty-seventh last, word was telegraphed<span class="pagenum">[247]</span> -over the country that a new geyser -had burst forth from an old crater about fifty -feet from the famous Fountain Geyser. The -eruption played from two hundred to two -hundred and fifty feet high.</p> - -<p>Tired, stage tired, we were snug in comforts -and blankets and sound asleep one night in -August at the Fountain hotel, when about -twelve o’clock gongs sounded, bells rang and -porters went running about pounding on the -doors and crying, what seemed to our sleepy -imagination, “Fire,” but presently we heard -distinctly the words, the new geyser is playing. -“The new geyser is playing,” went echoing -down the corridors.</p> - -<p>In ten minutes every tourist was out, in all -sorts of costumes from blanket to full dress, -either shivering on the long veranda or hurrying -down to the basin to see the new geyser -play, and right royally he did it, too.</p> - -<p>Upward into the black night shot a stupendous -column of water three hundred feet -high. The porters were the first to arrive and -playing their red calcium lights on the wonderful -body of falling water gave us a display of -fire and water that must be seen to be appreciated. -The now flaming vermilion column<span class="pagenum">[248]</span> -rose steadily upward, seemingly through the -red glare three hundred feet, the delicate, rose -colored steam rising much higher, swayed in -the breeze, now falling, now lifting, now floating -away into the black night a rosy cloud.</p> - -<p>The hotel cat hurried to the scene of action -but lost his bearings and stood fascinated by -the magic scene, the hot spray falling about him -until some one picked him up and carried him -out of danger.</p> - -<p>In the reception hall of this hotel an old -fashioned fireplace filled with glowing pine -logs sent out showers of welcoming sparks. A -big green back log sang again the anthem of the -wild storm-swept mountain forest, while outside -the rain came down in torrents.</p> - -<p>The most wonderful features of the Rocky -Mountains lie within the confines of Yellowstone -Park. The world’s oldest rocks, granite, -gneisse and basalt are found here. Later -dynamic action held sway and the region became -the center of mountain building on a -grand scale. Rocky beds tossed up and down. -Next came the reign of Vulcan. Fire held -sway. Volcanic materials overflowed the region. -Next came the ice age, when glaciers<span class="pagenum">[249]</span> -plowed down the mountain sides. Just now -the hydrothermal agents are most active.</p> - -<div id="ii249" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i249.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">GIBBON RIVER FALLS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>After miles of mountain climbing and five -hundred more of staging in the heart of the -Rockies, through groves of pine firs, spruce -and cedar, along streams and lakes bordered by -aspen, willow and wild flowers, through glades -and glens, ravines and gorges, one begins to get -some idea of the vastness, ruggedness and -grandeur of the mountains and the delicacy of -the climate. One begins to understand how in -average summer temperature of sixty degrees -pinks, geraniums, orchids, mosses, roses and -lilies, alternately bathed in sunshine and snow, -bloom on, reaching a perfection beyond that of -our prairie flowers.</p> - -<p>The mountain thistles are beautiful beyond -compare. The delicate purple blossoms are -borne on slender stems, the dainty green leaves -touched with white, drooping gracefully, give -the plant more the appearance of an orchid than -of the common weed it is.</p> - -<p>Over in Hayden valley roam fifty head of -buffalo, all that is left of that royal band, the -fine for killing one of which is five hundred -dollars. Deer and elk roam ravine and mountain<span class="pagenum">[250]</span> -side, sleek, fat fellows that make you glad -that they are under Uncle Sam’s protection. -We passed a group of deer in a wooded ravine, -their smooth coats shining like satin in the -sunshine as they gazed at us out of pathetic -brown eyes that had something of the human in -them.</p> - -<p>“I couldn’t kill one of them innocent creatures -if the law permitted me,” said the driver, -who was an old mountaineer and loved the -things of the mountains.</p> - -<p>Now and then one sees a mountain lion. The -less noble game abound also, the fox, martin, -beaver, woodchuck and gopher. Ground squirrels -run about the hotels and camps in search of -food. Under our window one evening three of -these little animals were having a tug of war -over a bread crust. The crust at last divided, -one lost his hold and the other two ran away -with the spoil.</p> - -<p>The gray squirrels are very numerous, showing -little fear of the passer-by as they run -along playing tag or race up and down the -trunks of great trees.</p> - -<p>The Rocky Mountain quail differs from our -own in being larger and having a crest on its -head.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[251]</span></p> - -<p>Both Black and Cinnamon bear haunt the vicinities -of the hotels and camps in search of -food. A big black fellow was pointed out to -us one morning who had stolen a ham from one -of the camps the night before. The ham had disappeared -and there stood Bruin waiting for a -chance to steal another. One of the men walked -up to him and gave him a slice of bacon, which -he took from his hands. When he had eaten it -he looked inquiringly about for more. This -time the meat was hung up in a tree. Bruin -sniffed the odor, located the bacon, climbed the -tree, knocked the meat down and came down -and ate it. Then he sat down on his haunches, -folding his paws and looking up at his new-found -friend as if asking for more.</p> - -<div id="ii251" class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i251.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">MICKY AND ANNIE ROONEY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At the Fountain hotel are two cubs, Micky -and Anna Rooney. They are very fond of -sugar. When offered any food they stand up -and reach out their paws for it or they will take -it out of your hand.</p> - -<p>Micky is a happy rollicking fellow, but Anna -is more sedate, quick of temper and free in the -use of her paws when angry. When offended -she climbs to the top of her pole and sitting -down on the board nailed there refuses to come -down for anything less than a lump of sugar.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum">[252]</span></p> - -<p>As these bears are still mere babies they are -fed milk from a bottle. They stand up, clasp -the bottle in their paws and proceed to drink -the milk through a hole in the cork.</p> - -<p>One evening something was wrong with -Micky’s bottle. While the attendant was fixing -it Micky dropped on his haunches, folded -his paws across his chest, holding his head first -on one side then on the other, looking very wise -the while. The attendant being somewhat -slow, Micky dropped to the ground but never -once took his eyes off that bottle. While -Micky was waiting for his supper Anna had -finished hers and was thrusting her paws into -the pockets of the attendant in search of candy -and sugar.</p> - -<p>At another hotel was a Bruin and her two babies. -When these youngsters refused to enter -the bath tub provided for them the mother -would coax them to the edge of the tub, push -them in, hold them down and give them a good -scrub.</p> - -<p>The National Park should be extended one -hundred miles farther south to the Black-Hole -country. The park game descends to the Black-Hole -during the winter where the hunters lay in<span class="pagenum">[253]</span> -wait for it. In this way park buffalo were -nearly exterminated.</p> - -<p>Of the natural wonders of the world our -country possesses namely: Niagara, Yellowstone -Park, Yosemite, Grand Cañon of the -Colorado, and the Glacial Coast of Alaska. The -Mammoth Cave might take sixth rank, but -leaving it out we will not go to Europe, but to -the Himalayas for one and to the Andes for -the other.</p> - -<p>The petrified forests are equally as interesting -as the geysers. Southwest of Pleasant Valley -is a small grove of petrified trees. Near Hell-roaring -Creek is a massive promontory, composed -of conglomerates, and numerous beds of -sandstones and shales. Throughout these strata -are numerous silicified remains of trees. Many -of the trees are standing upright just as they -grew.</p> - -<p>On the northern side of Amethyst Mountain -is another section of strata nearly two thousand -feet high. The ground here is strewn with -trunks and limbs of trees which have been petrified -into a clear white agate. In one place -rows of tree trunks stand out on the ledge like -the columns of an old ruin. Farther down the<span class="pagenum">[254]</span> -mountain side are prostrate trunks fifty feet -long. The strata in which these trunks are -found is composed of coarse conglomerates, -greenish sandstone and indurated clay.</p> - -<p>These strata contain many vegetable and animal -remains. Branches, roots, snakes, fishes, -toads and fruits. Among these petrified objects -one finds the most beautiful crystallizations -of all shades of red from the delicate rose -to a deep crimson. As to the trees the woody -structure is in many cases well preserved.</p> - -<p>Just beyond the eastern boundary of the park -lies the Hoodoo region of the Shoshone Mountains. -Here, in the very heart of the old -Rockies the banshee, ghosts and goblins of all -the region round about hold high jinks.</p> - -<p>The scenery is wild and rough. The -Goblin Mountain itself is over ten thousand -feet high and a mile long. The storms of ages -have carved the conglomerate breccia and volcanic -rocks into the most strange, weird and -fantastic shapes.</p> - -<p>The vivid imagination of the Indian sees in -these gigantic forms, beasts, birds and reptiles. -Here a couchant tiger and there the huge figure -of a Thunder Bird. Yonder a hungry bear sits -on his haunches waiting for a passing Indian.<span class="pagenum">[255]</span> -In the moonlight strange spectral shapes seem -to pass in and out these weird labyrinths. The -rocks are all shades and colors. Mysterious -sounds in the air above add interest to the -most weird scene in the Rockies, a fit setting for -the witch scene in Macbeth.</p> - -<p>In yonder dark cavern the huge cauldron -might boil and bubble as the fire lights up the -faces of the sinister three who stir the grewsome -mess, while around yon black bowlder -stealthily steals guilty Macbeth.</p> - -<p>Which of the grand scenes do I treasure the -most? I do not know. I cannot tell. Each -in turn holds, fascinates, and enthralls the -mind. Each becomes in the language of -Keats:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentquote0">“An endless fountain of immortal drink, -</div><div class="indent0">Pouring unto us from the heaven’s brink.” -</div></div></div></div> - -<p class="center p2">THE END</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Joaquin Miller</span>, -<cite>A Bear Hunt in the Fifties</cite>.</p></div></div></div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center">BY THE SAME AUTHOR.</p> - -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont">The Travels of a Water Drop</p> - -<p>is a volume of sketches, studies from nature. The -travels and adventures of this particular Water Drop -are so interestingly written that it ought to occupy a -prominent place in children’s classics. Each sketch in -the book is a gem in its way. For scientific accuracy -and literary beauty this little volume is recommended -to nature lovers. Cloth, small 12mo. Fifty Cents.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 style="margin-top: 0em">Transcriber’s Notes:</h2> - -<p>The single footnote has been moved to the end of the text.</p> - -<p>Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are -mentioned.</p> - -<p>Punctuation has been made consistent.</p> - -<p>Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in -the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors -have been corrected.</p> - -<p>Both Skaguay and Skagway appear in the original text, and the spelling -Skaguay has been standardized to Skagway.</p> - -<p>Both Wrangle and Wrangel appear in the original text, and the spelling -Wrangle has been standardized to Wrangel.</p> - -<p>Both “Blackfoot village” and “Blackfeet village” appear in the original -text, and the spelling “Blackfeet village” has been standardized to -“Blackfoot village.”</p> -</div></div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Pacific Coast Vacation, by Ida Dorman Morris - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A PACIFIC COAST VACATION *** - -***** This file should be named 63172-h.htm or 63172-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/1/7/63172/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Bryan Ness, Craig Kirkwood, -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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