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diff --git a/old/63571-0.txt b/old/63571-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 78a8c4a..0000000 --- a/old/63571-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6082 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Exploits and Adventures of a Soldier Ashore -and Afloat, by William Llewellyn Adams - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this ebook. - -Title: Exploits and Adventures of a Soldier Ashore and Afloat - -Author: William Llewellyn Adams - -Release Date: October 29, 2020 [EBook #63571] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Carol Brown and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLOITS AND ADVENTURES OF A -SOLDIER ASHORE AND AFLOAT *** - - - - -Exploits and Adventures - -of a Soldier Ashore - -and Afloat - - - - - - [Illustration: W. L. Adams - (signed) Courteously Yours, - W. L. Adams] - - - - -Exploits and Adventures - -of a Soldier Ashore - -and Afloat - - - - -BY - -WILLIAM LLEWELLYN ADAMS - - - - - [Illustration: Printer’s Logo] - - - - -PRESS OF - -J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY - -PHILADELPHIA - -1911 - - - - -COPYRIGHT, 1911 - -BY WILLIAM L. ADAMS - - -_All Rights Reserved_ - - - - -THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY - -INSCRIBED TO MY - -“BUNKIES AND SHIPMATES” - -OF THE - -ARMY AND NAVY - - - - -Preface - - -In introducing the following narratives, the contents of which have -been gleaned through my voyage around the earth in quest of excitement -and natural oddities, for which since childhood I have possessed an -insatiable desire, I wish to acquaint the reader, in a brief prefatory -discourse, with the nature of the work that is to follow, and thereby -gratify the curiosity, so natural at the beginning, in a reader of -reminiscences. - -Through the prevailing influence of some loyal friends, whom it has -been my good fortune to have had as correspondents during my military -career, I herein attempt to depict events as they actually happened, -without recourse to imagination. - -Having served under the dominion of “Old Glory” in the Occident and -Orient, on land and on sea, in war and peace, for the period of ten -years, I naturally fell heir to novel and interesting occurrences, so -numerous that to attempt to describe in detail would necessitate the -space of many volumes; I therefore resort to conciseness, at the same -time selecting and giving a comprehensive description of those -occurrences which are most important in my category of adventures. - -As an author I do not wish to be misunderstood. I merely desire to -portray what has come under my observation, rather than make a -Marathon with the laurels of so dignified a profession, and in so -doing communicate to those whose arduous duties at home have deprived -them of the romance of globetrotting, and thereby distribute the -knowledge that some more silent person might never unfetter. - -In conclusion to this preface, I desire to say, that I have refrained -from the manufacture of episodes or any tendency toward fiction, which -I trust the following pages will confirm, and that, as from the -description of a spectator, these narratives will meet with the -approval of those into whose hands they might chance to fall. - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - - Contents - - - Chapter Page - - I Campaign of the “Governor’s Troop,” Penna. Vol. Cavalry 15 - - II On board a “Man-of-war” from New York to Morocco 45 - - III Thrilling Adventure with Moors in the “Kasbah” of Algiers 63 - - IV From the Pyramids of Egypt to Singapore 71 - - V Hong Kong, China, and the Denizens of the Underworld 90 - - VI A Trip to Japan 103 - - VII War Orders in the “Land of the Rising Sun” 118 - - VIII The Cowboy Soldier, a Coincidence 145 - - IX Life Among Hostile Moros in the Jungles of Mindanao 169 - - X A Midnight Phantasy in California 197 - - XI “Semper Fidelis,” the Marine “Guard of Honor,” World’s - Fair, St. Louis. 1904 208 - - XII Topographical Survey in the Jungles of Luzon 242 - - XIII “Cock-fighting,” the National Sport of the Philippines 271 - - XIV Departure of the 29th Infantry for the Home-land; - Reception in Honolulu 279 - - - - - Illustrations - - Page - - William Llewellyn Adams _Frontispiece_ - - Detachment of “Governor’s Troop,” Mt. Gretna, 1898 20 - - A Trooper 42 - - Tent No. 2, Fynmore and Adams, “World’s Fair,” - St. Louis, 1904 214 - - Coleman and Adams, Gun-mule “Dewey,” Machine-gun Battery 258 - - Machine Gun Platoon of the 29th Infantry in the Snow - Capped Wasatch Range, Utah 260 - - - - - Where spades grow bright and idle swords grow dull, - Where jails are empty and where barns are full, - Where church paths are with frequent feet outworn, - Law court-yards empty, silent, and forlorn; - Where lawyers foot it and the farmers ride, - Where age abounds and youth is multiplied: - Where these signs are, they clearly indicate - A happy people and well-governed state. - - _Anonymous._ - - - - - I. - - Campaign of the “Governor’s Troop,” Penna. Volunteer Cavalry - - The “Pandora Box”――Call for Volunteers――Mustered In――Breaking of - Horses at Mt. Gretna――Liberality of the Ladies of Harrisburg and - Hazleton――Departure of the Tenth Pennsylvania for the - Philippines――My First Rebuff, by Major-General Graham――Thirty - Thousand Soldiers Celebrate the Victory of Santiago――Troopers - Decorated with Flowers by the Maidens of Richmond――The Concert - Halls of Newport News――The Ghost Walks――Off for the - Front――Convoyed by Battleships――Porto Rico――Spanish - Hospitality――Wounded by a Shell――Jack the “Mascot” Passes the - Deal――Reception in New York, Harrisburg, and Hazleton. - - -The destruction of the United States battleship _Maine_ in Havana -harbor, on the night of February 15, 1898, was the key to the -mysterious “Pandora Box,” containing maps of new United States -possessions, the commission of an admiral, the creation of a -President, the construction of a formidable army and navy, the -humiliation of a proud nation, and numerous other undisputed -ascendencies. - -The uncivilized, brutal, and oppressive methods resorted to by the -Spaniards in conducting military operations on the Island of Cuba and -other territory adjacent to the United States had long been a theme of -discussion by patriotic and sympathizing Americans. When the news -flashed over the wires that the big man-of-war, the _Maine_, had been -blown up and two hundred and sixty-six members of her gallant crew had -been sent to a watery grave, the hearts of American youths burned with -indignation and every mother’s son yearned to avenge what was -considered Spanish treachery. What followed is entered in the archives -of American history and is familiar to all. The call for volunteers -was responded to universally, there being so many applicants to fill -the ranks that only the flower of the American youth was accepted. - -When the news was wired broadcast that Commodore Dewey had fairly -annihilated the Spanish fleet in Asiatic waters, without the loss of a -man, there was a burst of enthusiasm that can well be imagined by -those too young to remember the occasion. At 9.00 A.M. on the second -of May, 1898, this news was received in Hazleton, Pennsylvania. It was -followed by a telegram from the Captain of the “Governor’s Troop,” -Pennsylvania Volunteer Cavalry, of Harrisburg, which stated that -twelve vacancies existed in that troop and that in accordance with the -request of Governor Hastings these vacancies should be filled with the -first volunteers from the city of Hazleton. In two hours’ time the -recipient of the telegram, Mr. Willard Young, had notified and -enlisted twelve of Hazleton’s stalwart sons, and at 7.40 A.M. the next -morning, amidst the waving of the national colors and cheers from the -populace the boys were escorted by the famous old Liberty Band to the -Lehigh Valley Station where, after bidding adieu to relatives, -sweethearts, and friends, they boarded a train for Mt. Gretna, the -military rendezvous. - -The men who comprised this Hazleton assemblage were―― - - ARIO P. PLATTE, JR. - SCHUYLER RIDGEWAY - JOHN J. TURNBACH - WILLIAM K. BYRNES - WILLARD YOUNG - CHARLES H. ROHLAND - EDWARD R. TURNBACH - STEPHEN A. BARBER - EDWIN W. BARTON - HERBERT S. HOUCK - CLARENCE H. HERTZ - WILLIAM L. ADAMS - -_En route_ to Pottsville the train was boarded by my life-long friend, -David L. Thomas, who was on his way to his law office. On learning the -destination of the patriots he laid down his “Blackstone” and wired -his parents in Mahanoy City that he had cast his fortunes with the -avengers of Spanish tyranny. Of this group of volunteers, two loyal -soldiers have answered the last roll call, namely: Ario P. Platte, -Jr., and David L. Thomas. - -Arriving at Mt. Gretna we beheld, under miles of canvas, -Pennsylvania’s gallant National Guard. Upon inquiry we found the -cavalry headquarters, consisting of the “City Troop” of Philadelphia, -the “Sheridan Troop” of Tyrone, and the “Governor’s Troop” of -Harrisburg, stationed in a clump of forest near the lake. - -Immediately reporting to Captain Ott, commanding the “Governor’s -Troop,” we were assigned to quarters in large Sibly tents and met the -old members of the troop, among whom I was delighted to find Feight -and Barker, two classmates of mine at “Dickinson Seminary.” We were at -once issued mess kits, the most necessary equipment required by a -soldier when not in the face of the enemy, and, roaming hither and -thither, awaited the usual medical examination preparatory to being -mustered into the service of the United States, which, after several -dreary and monotonous days, occurred on the 13th of May. After being -fitted in natty cavalry uniforms we were drilled twice daily on foot -by an ex-sergeant of the regular army, whose service in the regulars -had qualified him for the arduous task of breaking in raw recruits. -This drill was an experience not relished very much, as profound -obedience was required, and many wished the war was over before it had -really begun. - -Before bringing the troop to attention, the sergeant would usually -say: “Now boys, I want you to pay attention to my orders, and if you -make mistakes I am apt to say some things I do not really mean.” So we -would take his word for this, but ofttimes thought things we did mean. -This was his song: “Fall in,” “Troop attention,” “Right dress,” -“Front,” “Count off,” “Backward guide right,” “March,” “As -skirmishers,” “March,” “Get some speed on you,” “Wake up,” “Wake up,” -“Assemble double time,” “March,” “Look to the front, and get in step, -you walk like farmers hoeing corn,” “Close in,” “Close in,” “Take up -that interval.” These were the daily commands, until the troop was -able to execute close and extended order to perfection. Then came the -horses, and the monkey drill, and some pitiful sights of horsemanship, -until each of the boys had accustomed himself to his own horse and had -become hardened to the saddle. - - [Illustration: DETACHMENT OF GOVERNOR’S TROOP, MT. GRETNA PA., 1898.] - -At first we were equipped with the old Springfield rifle, but this was -soon replaced by the Krag-Jorgensen carbine. Each trooper was soon -fully equipped as follows: horse, McClellen saddle, saddle bags, -bridle, halter, and horse blanket, carbine, saber, Colt revolver, -belts, and ammunition, canteen, mess kits, sleeping blanket, shelter -half, and uniforms. - -The ladies of Harrisburg and Hazleton were extremely generous to the -troop. From Harrisburg each soldier received a large and beautiful -yellow silk neckerchief, a Bible, and a large quantity of pipes and -tobacco. From Hazleton came literature and boxes after boxes of -edibles, which were greatly relished by the troopers. - -Some time was consumed in the breaking of horses, getting them bridle -wise, and training them to the saddle, and this afforded great -amusement to the thousands of spectators who visited the reservation -daily. The troop, which consisted of one hundred privates and three -commissioned officers, was made up of men from various walks of life. -Lawyers, athletes, students, merchants, ex-regular-army soldiers, -cowboys, and Indians swapped stories around the camp-fires at night. -Every day, after the usual routine of duty had been performed, games -of all descriptions were indulged in, poker under the shade of an “A” -wall tent usually predominating. One of the entertaining features of -the camp was a quartette of singers, members of the “Sheridan” and -“Governor’s” troops, and ex-members of the University of Pennsylvania -Glee Club. These boys were always in demand. - -“Broncho buster,” George S. Reed, an ex-Texas ranger, Nome gold miner, -and survivor of several duels, the most noted man of the “Governor’s -Troop,” had cast his fortunes with the soldier “lay out,” and had -boasted that there never was a broncho foaled that he could not cling -to. “Broncho’s” debut as an equestrian was to ride a horse we called -the “rat,” a bad one. Reed had great difficulty in getting his foot in -the stirrup, as this animal would bite, buck, and kick, and besides -held a few tricks in reserve. Finally, taking a desperate chance, -“Broncho” swung himself into the saddle and the show was on. The horse -plunged, bolted, and bucked, in trying to unseat the rider. When all -efforts seemed to have been exhausted, the “rat” bucked, and made a -complete somersault, rolling the ranger on the turf, then rising and -doing a contortion, wriggled through the saddle girth and blanket, and -bolted for the timber. “That horse is mad,” said Reed, brushing the -dust from his uniform. “Did you see it loop the loop?” The horse that -fell to “Broncho’s” lot was a gentle animal, that could tell by -instinct when the canteen was empty, and would stand without hitching -at any point where the goods could be supplied. - -Each day brought forth news of the mobilization of troops and the -progress of the war. Mt. Gretna, an ideal place for a military -rendezvous, presented a grand spectacle. Regiments were rigidly -disciplined and drilled to the requirements of war, sham battles were -fought, galloping horsemen could be seen repulsing the enemy, while -the wild cheering of the infantry in the charge, and the reckless -maneuvering of artillery in establishing points of vantage for getting -into action, had the aspect of mimic war. - -Days rolled by and the troops yearned for active service. The Tenth -Pennsylvania Infantry, having received orders to proceed to the -Philippine Islands, was the first regiment to break the monotony. -There was great activity in breaking camp, and a speedy departure -amidst a wild demonstration enthused the boys whose fate lay with the -fortunes of war, and whose valiant bravery along the south line, from -Bacoor to Manila, will ever remain vivid in the annals of the -insurrection. - -The news of the departure of the “Rough Riders” for Cuba was heralded -with much joy as a forerunner of our getting to the front, also the -distribution of regiments to southern camps, where the sons of the -“Blue and the Gray” commingled and fraternized as comrades fighting -for the same cause, and spun yarns of the bloody strife of the -rebellion in which their fathers had opposed each other in a bitter -struggle. - -The promulgation of the general order directing our departure for the -South was received with cheers. Breaking camp was immediately begun, -the loading of horses and equipment on the train being accomplished -with the dexterity of a troop of regulars. All along the route the -train met with an ovation. There was waving of flags and -handkerchiefs, bells were tolled, and the shrill whistles of factories -welcomed the boys on to the front. Arriving at Falls Church, Virginia, -we at once set to work unloading our horses and accoutrements of war, -which was accomplished with almost insuperable difficulty, due to our -having reached our destination at night and in a blinding rain-storm. - -Among the members of our troop was a Swedish Count, and at this point -I recall a little incident which it will not be amiss to relate. We -had unloaded our horses and were awaiting orders, when the Count -approached me and said: - -“Bill, ven do ve eat?” - -“I guess we don’t eat, Count,” I replied; “these are the horrors of -war.” - -“Vell, py tam,” said the Count, “dis vore vas all horrores. I vanted -to blay benuckle on der train und der corporal say: ‘You go mit der -baggage car, unt cook some beans,’ unt by tam, I couldn’t cook vater -yet.” - -We remained at Falls Church over night, and in the morning marched to -Camp Alger through blinding torrents of rain and fetlock-deep in mud. -This camp, like most Southern camps, was very unhealthy, the heat was -stifling, and many soldiers succumbed to fever. Here the troops of -cavalry were consolidated into a squadron, consisting of Troop “A” of -New York, Troop “C” of Brooklyn, “City Troop” of Philadelphia, -“Sheridan Troop” of Tyrone, and “The Governor’s Troop” of Harrisburg, -under the command of Major Jones, formerly captain of the “Sheridan -Troop,” who relieved Captain Groome, of the “City Troop” of -Philadelphia, who had been temporarily in command. - -Camp Alger was a city of tents, as far as the eye could discern in -every direction, there being about thirty thousand soldiers in the -camp. My first duty at this Post was a detail as “orderly,” at General -Graham’s headquarters. With a well-groomed horse, polished saddle, and -soldierly immaculateness, I reported for duty. Entering the General’s -spacious tent and saluting, I said: - -“Sir, Trooper Adams, of the ‘Governor’s Troop,’ reports as orderly to -the Commanding General.” - -“Very well,” replied the General; “give the Colonel of the Second -Tennessee my compliments and tell him I will review his regiment at -4.30 P.M.” - -“Yes, sir, but, by the way, General,” said I, “where is the Second -Tennessee located?” - -“Make an about face and follow your nose,” the old man replied, and I -did; but if the old General could have heard the mute invectives aimed -at him I probably never would have told this yarn. I do not blame him -now, as I realize how unmilitary I was. I had no difficulty in finding -the Colonel of the Second Tennessee, as I kept my nose right in front -of me. - -The news of the victory of Santiago was celebrated by the troops in -gorgeous style. Regiment followed regiment in wild acclaim, cheers -after cheers resounded from the throats of the thirty thousand -soldiers who were anxiously awaiting their call to the front. Bonfires -of tar barrels were kept burning all night, and the excitement of the -camp was intense. - -The cavalry was ordered to Newport News to await the arrival of the -transports; but, unlike the Sixth Massachusetts, that was stoned in -Baltimore at the outbreak of the rebellion, our greetings in the South -were exceptionally friendly. At Richmond bouquets of flowers were -scattered in profusion among the soldiers, and many a fair maiden left -the station with a pair of cross sabers pinned to her shirtwaist. - -Our camp at Newport News was on sandy soil on the banks of the James -River, which afforded excellent bathing and fishing. Here the cavalry -received their khaki uniforms, which were the first issued to United -States troops and had the appearance of an officer’s regimentals. As a -consequence it was a common sight to see a “doughboy” saluting a -trooper as he strolled through the city. A member of a Kentucky -regiment was heard to remark: “That Pennsylvania cavalry is hot stuff; -they are all officers.” - -A few days after pitching camp, something happened; it is an occasion -when a soldier possesses that air of complacency which invariably -pervades the atmosphere. It is when the “ghost walks” (pay day) that -the soldier is not only happy, but has a keen desire for making every -one with whom he comes in contact happy. As a dispenser of pleasure, -when he has “the necessary,” his speed brooks no competition, and all -others look like “pikers” compared with “the man behind the gun.” - -In 1898 Barton’s Theatre and Concert Hall was a nightly scene of -revelry, by cavalry, artillery, and infantry, and from a spectator’s -point of view it was hard to decide which was of more interest, the -scenes in front or in rear of the footlights. Songs that reached a -soldier’s heart were sung by dashing “prima donnas from the -cottonfields of Dixie,” the soldiers joining in the chorus. After the -“ghost had walked” this particular concert hall fell into the hands of -the boys, among whom was found talent far surpassing anything behind -the footlights. The soubrettes of the ballet dance mingled with the -boys, and these scenes were equivalent to the “Can Can” of the famous -“Red Mill” of Paris, or a Creole “Bal Masque” during a New Orleans -“Mardi Gras.” - -As the orchestra struck up the music to “For he is only a Soldier -Boy,” a dashing southern beauty, in military costume, would saunter to -the footlights, accompanied by a chorus of lesser lights, whose -evolutions, combined with their singing, were extremely pretty and -inspiring to the soldiers. This sketch brought forth deafening -applause, dying out only as a trooper announced that he would endeavor -to recite “The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere,” or perhaps “Tam -O’Shanter,” while another would volunteer to inflict us with “Casey at -the Bat” or “The Face upon the Bar-room Floor,” to the mournful -strains from the dirge of Imogen, a sure harbinger for the dispensers -of “sangaree” to get busy and take orders. Another song, and the dance -was on once more and continued until the “dog watch” of the night, -when the soldiers realized that at reveille every man must be in ranks -to answer to the call of his name or suffer the alternative, a berth -in the “brig.” - -This was the bright side of war, and, as each soldier was intent on -getting to the front, it was the exception rather than the rule to -hear of a misdemeanor being committed, or even to hear of a man being -confined to the “guard house.” - -Newport News was a gay place in ’98. Its people were very hospitable -and friendly with the troops. Old Point Comfort and the Forts of -Hampton Roads were but a short run by rail from the camp, and these -were favorite resorts of the soldiers. Great excitement prevailed when -the order for the Porto Rican expedition――“Pennsylvania Cavalry to the -front”――was received. - -The transport _Manitoba_ had been fitted from an old cattle scow to a -serviceable troop-ship, and had just returned from conveying a -detachment of “Rough Riders” to Cuba. This vessel was spacious but -lacking in the accommodations of our present-day transports that ply -the Pacific. Considerable time was spent in getting our horses and -munitions of war on board. When the signal to cast loose and provide -was given we had on board three troops of cavalry, three batteries of -field artillery, one battalion of Kentucky infantry, and detachments -of engineer, hospital, and signal corps, seven hundred head of horses, -and three hundred head of mules, besides the cargo of munitions of -war. - -Our time on board was occupied in preparing for a harder campaign than -materialized. Carbines and six-shooters were oiled, and sabers -burnished (the scabbards of these, being nickel-plated, required -merely a coating of oil to keep them from rust). Our boots were -greased, and the front and rear sights of our carbines were blackened. -The boys scalloped the rims of their campaign hats, and some were -tattooed by adepts in the art. Cards and reading were other pastimes -of the voyage. - -The fifth day out the United States cruiser _Columbia_ and battleship -_Indiana_ were sighted; they had come to convoy the ship into the -harbor of Playa Del Ponce. Arriving in the harbor at night, we had the -misfortune to run on a sand-bar, where, being compelled to anchor with -a list of about forty degrees, the possibility of our landing at night -became rather vague. While making preparations for an attempt to land, -a heavy gale encompassed the bay, making our position perilous, and, -as this continued throughout the following day, it was with the utmost -difficulty that our horses and mules were landed, a number of them -being swung overboard and allowed to swim ashore. - -Having finally reached the ground of the enemy, great precaution was -taken to avoid a surprise; the water was inspected to make sure that -it contained no poisonous substance and the orders in posting -sentinels were rigidly enforced――each sentry before being posted had -to be thoroughly familiar with his orders, being required to repeat -them verbatim, and was also admonished as to the importance of keeping -constantly on the alert. He was forewarned that to be found asleep on -post in the enemy’s country meant to be tried by court-martial and if -convicted to suffer the penalty of death. - -Our first rendezvous was alongside of an old Spanish cathedral, -surrounded by plantations of sugarcane, coffee, hemp, and tobacco; -here we pitched a camp of shelter or “dog-tents” as they were -generally called. As we were getting our accoutrements of war in shape -the rapid fire of the Sixteenth Pennsylvania engaging the enemy could -be distinctly heard, this engagement, however, being of short -duration, like all other Spanish-American encounters in the West -Indies. - -Playa Del Ponce is the port of the city of Ponce, and is the shipping -point for that section of the Island of Porto Rico. The town is -surrounded by rich plantations of tobacco, coffee, sugarcane, and -rice, also trees teeming with oranges, cocoanuts, guavas, lemons, -grape-fruit, and groves of bananas and plantains. The staple -production of the island is tobacco, from which is manufactured a very -choice brand of cigars. The city of Ponce lies inland a distance of -about three miles, and is typically Spanish in its architecture. - -Shortly after our arrival at Playa Del Ponce, I had occasion to take -my horse in the ocean for a swim, which was great sport and beneficial -to the animal. In dismounting on my return to the beach, I had the -painful misfortune to tread on a thin sea shell which penetrated my -heel, breaking into several pieces. On my return to the camp I found -the troop surgeon had left for Ponce, so seeking the assistance of a -Spanish-Porto Rican physician, one Garcia Del Valyo, I was relieved -after considerable probing, of the broken pieces of shell. The wet -season being in progress and our hospital facilities limited, the -doctor kindly offered me quarters in his beautiful residence, and -recommended to my troop commander that I remain at his home until my -wound had healed. To this the officer acquiesced. - -I was given a room overlooking the bay on one side, with the town -bounding the other; a crutch and an oil-cloth shoe were provided for -me, with which I was able to hobble around with the two beautiful -daughters of the old gentleman, namely, Anita and Consuelo Del Valyo. -They spoke the Anglo-Saxon language fairly well and taught me my first -lessons in Spanish, while I in return instructed them in my language. -Both were artistes, being skilled in painting, sculpture, and music, -and I often recall the happy evenings spent listening to the sweet -notes of “La Paloma” as sung to the trembling tones of a mandolin -accompaniment. Traditional custom permitted the piano and various -Spanish songs during the day, but never “La Paloma,” wine, and the -“Fandango” until after twilight. It was a picturesque sight to watch -these senoritas perform the “Fandango,” clicking the castanets and -gracefully tapping the tambourine as they whirled through coils of -cigarette smoke. - -I spent nine days in this hospitable domicile and was sorry when my -wound had healed, but alas! I had to join my troop, which had departed -for the interior. Before leaving Playa Del Ponce, I was presented with -a small gold case containing the miniatures of these charming ladies. -During the campaign on the island, I made several trips in to see -them, accompanied by members of the troop, and before our departure -from Porto Rico, had the extreme pleasure of attending a genuine Porto -Rican “Fiesta.” It is sad to relate that the entire family suffered -the fate of a large percentage of the population of Playa Del Ponce, -in the terrible tidal wave which swept that portion of the island in -1899. Far be it from me to ever forget the kindness, engaging -presence, and irresistible charm of these unfortunate people. - -On my way to join the troop, I met the Sixteenth Pennsylvania -Infantry, escorting about eight hundred prisoners of war into the -city, where they were to remain in incarceration until the arrival of -the transports which were to convey the Spanish soldiers to Spain. -When they halted near the old stockade in the city of Ponce I secured -some unique curios including a Spanish coronet of solid gold (a watch -charm), rings, knives, Spanish coins, and ornaments of various kinds. - -Having finally reached my troop and reported for duty, I joined my old -“bunkies,” Young and Turnbach, and learned from them that the soldiers -were starving to death on a diet commonly known as “canned Eagan,” -others dubbed it “embalmed beef” and swore that no cattle were ever -taken alive that supplied such meat, as they were too tough to -surrender. Suffice it to say it was at least a very unwholesome diet. -The British bull-dog “Jack,” a “blue ribbon” winner that had been -purchased at a London dog-show by Norman Parke, a member of the troop, -was a worthy “mascot” and general favorite among the soldiers of the -squadron. Parke, having been detailed as orderly to Colonel Castleman, -which necessitated his absence from the troop, presented the dog to -Trooper Schuyler Ridgeway, in whom “Jack” found an indulgent master. -Schuyler, in order to demonstrate the quality of the “encased -mystery,” had a can of it tapped, and invited the dog to sink his -teeth in it. “Jack” with true bull-dog sagacity refused, realizing, I -presume, that it would be attempted suicide, and withdrawing a short -distance gave vent to his spleen by a wicked growl, after which a -pitiful whine which seemed to say, “Home was never like this.” Reed, -the ranger, said he had played the starvation game before, even to -chopping wood in some kind lady’s woodshed for his dinner, and added -that Spanish bullets were only a side line to the present grit he had -hit. - -Camp life in the tropics in active service was not without its -pleasures, however, and, as fruit grew in abundance, sustenance was -maintained even if it was of the Indian variety. Details of mounted -scouting parties galloped through the mountains daily, taking -observations and frequently exchanging shots with guerrillas, who in -riding and marksmanship were no match for the American troopers. The -cavalry squadron figured in several skirmishes, but the retreat of the -Spanish from the carbine volleys and glittering sabers of their foe -put them to rout, so that I doubt if the same troops ever reassembled. - -At last the news of the armistice was received, hostilities had -ceased, and preparations for the trip to the home land were begun. -Hither and thither we had marched for months, in cold and hot -climates, slept in rain under ponchos with saddle-bags for pillows, -lived on the scanty rations of field service, and now the time had -come for our return, the war being practically over. The transport -_Mississippi_, a miserable specimen of “troop-ship,” had been put at -our disposal, and was to convey the greater part of General Miles’ -expedition to New York City. - -After striking camp and loading all the equipage of war accessories -onto army schooners, a march of a few hours brought the cavalry to the -point of embarkation. Playa Del Ponce presented a spectacle of grand -military activity. Soldiers representing the army in all its branches -were busily engaged in storing aboard ship the munitions of war and -necessary rations for the homeward bound voyage. The artillery and -cavalry were spared the irksome duty of loading their horses, these -animals being left behind for the relief of the “regulars.” When all -was in readiness and the signal given, the “homeward bound pennant” -was flown to the breeze, as the ship’s bell tolled seven. Steaming -northwest over a sea of calm saline billows, three cheers from the -deck of the transport resounded to the shore, and, as the troops -wafted adieu to this verdant island of the West Indies, it was with -silent regret that lack of opportunity had prevented them from -accomplishing the notable achievements of their forefathers――but such -are the fortunes of war. - -Our return was uneventful until we reached Sandy Hook, where the -transport was met and convoyed through New York Harbor by myriads of -yachts, launches, and tugs loaded with relatives and friends of the -boys who had offered their lives for their country and many of whom -the grim reaper had grasped from loving ties and the comradeship of -their compatriots. - -The reception in New York City was one grand elaboration of -hospitality, evidenced by the demonstration of the thousands of people -who thronged the landing place. Numerous bands of music played -inspiring airs, as the city’s fair ladies dispensed chicken sandwiches -and demijohns of wine to the soldiers, while others fairly covered the -squadron with garlands of beautiful flowers. The reception in New York -lasted about four hours, after which the “Governor’s Troop,” led by -its gallant commander, Captain (now Major) Ott, of Harrisburg, -Pennsylvania, marched to and boarded a section of Pennsylvania -Railroad coaches, and was ere long rolling over the rails toward the -capital of the Keystone State. - -On the arrival at Harrisburg, the home of the “Governor’s Troop,” an -immense demonstration awaited the boys. Leaving the train in their -worn habiliments of the jungle, the troopers were soon dressed in -ranks, answered roll call, had counted off, and were marching behind a -band of music, under a bower of pyrotechnics that resembled a -mythological scene in “Hades.” After parading through the principal -streets of the city, the troop was marched to the armory, which was -beautifully decorated for the occasion; here the battle-scarred heroes -of a successful campaign sat down to a banquet, over which an host of -Harrisburg’s fair maidens presided. Oh for a moving picture of that -scene! Each soldier wore a vestige of the pretty silk neckerchief the -Harrisburg ladies had presented him with. Speeches were made by -prominent citizens, songs were sung and toasts responded to, and it -was with a feeling of deep appreciation that the troop left the -banquet hall to seek a much-needed rest. The following day was spent -in meeting friends and relating episodes of the campaign. - - [Illustration: A TROOPER] - -The Hazletonian complement of the “Governor’s Troop” had been apprised -of a demonstration awaiting them at their home city, and upon the -reception of the prescribed two months’ furlough, departed for the -scene of the climax to the campaign. This Hazleton greeting was the -most enthusiastic reception of all, perhaps because this was home. -Alighting from the cars amidst thousands of people who thronged the -platform and streets, the soldiers were met by a committee, relatives, -and friends, and it was with great difficulty that the horses provided -for the troopers were reached. As each man swung into the saddle, the -famous old Liberty Band struck up a march, and as the procession, -consisting of the Band, Reception Committee, Clergy, Grand Army, -National Guard, Police, Fire Department, Secret Organizations, and -others, turned into the main street of the city, a burst of exultation -extolled the welcome home, and as the line of march advanced between -thousands of people under a bower of phosphorescence it was with a -keen sensibility of delight that we had lived to enjoy such a unique -and prodigious reception. A sumptuous banquet was tendered the -cavalrymen in the spacious dining-hall of the Central Hotel, where -addresses and toasts were made by prominent Hazletonians, terminating -a successful campaign of the “Governor’s Troop.” After the expiration -of the two months’ furlough, this troop of cavalry was mustered out of -the service of the United States. - - - - - II. - - On Board a Man-of-war from New York to Morocco - - Admiral’s Orderly on the U. S. Cruiser _New York_――A Storm on the - Atlantic――Duties of a Marine――The Author Reads his own - Obituary――Under the Guns of Gibraltar――A Bull-fight in - Spain――Pressing an Indemnity Against the Sultan of Morocco――An - American Subject Burned at the Stake by Moors――Burial in Morocco - of a Shipmate. - - -The Boxer outbreak in China in 1900 attracted the attention of the -entire civilized world, and was the incitement that inspired many of -an adventurous turn of mind to cast their fortunes with the allied -forces in suppressing the depredations of the Tartar tribes in the -land of the Heathen Chinee. In August, 1900, while a spectator at the -Corbett-McCoy bout, in “Madison Square Garden,” New York, I learned, -from a chief petty officer of the battleship _Massachusetts_, that the -United States cruiser _New York_, lying in dry dock at the Brooklyn -Navy Yard, was being rapidly prepared to be put in commission, and was -to be the “flag-ship” of Rear Admiral Rodgers, who was destined for a -cruise to the Chinese coast. Upon further inquiries at the Navy Yard, -I heard this news authentically corroborated, and at once determined -to see the Orient. - -A battalion of marines under the command of Major Waller had won -laurels in Tien Tsin and Pekin, being among the first to enter the -Forbidden City. Keeping tabs on the daily progress of the war, I -became more and more interested, and, having learned that marines were -the first landing force during hostilities, I enlisted in this branch -of the service, and ere long was installed in the “Lyceum” of the -Brooklyn Navy Yard operating telephone switches. From my window in the -“Lyceum” I could gaze on the sailors who were rapidly putting the big -cruiser in readiness for her cruise around the world; for, contrary to -expectations, the order to proceed direct to China was abrogated in -lieu of an indemnity which required pressure in Morocco. - -Having made application for the “marine guard” of the _New York_, -which consisted of seventy-two men, one captain, and one lieutenant, I -was very much pleased when informed that my application had been -approved of, and that I was to prepare to board the vessel in the -capacity of “orderly” to the admiral. I was relieved from duty in the -“Lyceum” and ordered to join the “guard,” which had been undergoing a -process of special drill. - -On being ordered aboard the ship, we were assigned to quarters, -instructed as to our stations for boat drill, fire drill, large gun -drill, abandon ship, arm and away, strip ship for action, collision -drill, and the positions of alignment on the quarter-deck, where the -“present arms,” the courtesy extended to military and civil -dignitaries at home and abroad, had to be daily executed. - -The _New York_, which had been the “flag-ship” of Rear Admiral Bunce, -who commanded the “North Atlantic Squadron,” and later the “flag-ship” -of Rear Admiral Sampson at the battle of Santiago, was in 1900 the -show ship of the navy, making a magnificent appearance while under -way. She carried a complement of six eight-inch guns, twelve -four-inch, and ten six-pounders, and had a speed of more than -twenty-one knots per hour. - -A feature of the _New York_ was her enormous engine strength compared -with her weight, the battleship _Indiana_ developing nine thousand -horse-power on a ten thousand two hundred ton displacement, while that -of the cruiser _New York_ was seventeen thousand horse-power on a -displacement of eight thousand two hundred tons. - -The day having arrived for placing the vessel in commission, a galaxy -of army and navy officers, civilians, and beautiful women assembled on -the quarter-deck, which was inclosed and draped with flags of all -nations. Orderlies were kept busy announcing the arrival of the guests -to the admiral and captain, many of whose names included exclusive -members of New York’s “Four Hundred,” whose ancestral genealogies, -emblazoned with ensigns of heraldry, adorn their multitudinous――what -not?――though ofttimes, let it be known, the power and honor behind the -throne can be traced to the purchasing power of filthy lucre. Not -unlike the “Sons and Daughters of the Revolution,” whose sacred -heritage and portals have been defiled by the presence of incognizable -descendants of ancestors who in reality were unloyal to the colonies, -Tories of King George III., some of whom sat in that august body the -“General Assembly” and cried Treason! Treason! as Patrick Henry -introduced his famous resolutions in denunciation of the Stamp Act, -and in a passionate burst of eloquence uttered those -never-to-be-forgotten words, “Cæsar had his Brutus, Charles the First -his Cromwell, and George the Third”――pausing awhile during the -interruption by Tories, calmly added――“may profit by their example.” - -Wafting adieu to old New York town, our sea-going home steamed out of -New York harbor and down along the Atlantic coast to Hampton Roads, -our first stop, anchoring midway between Fortress Monroe and the “Rip -Raps,” where tons of coal were placed in the bunkers. - -Coaling ship is the most disagreeable work a sailor can perform, but, -as the task is usually accomplished in one day, each man tackles the -work with that heroic resolve which has so characterized the American -“man-of-war’s-man” in battle. - -Immediately after coaling, the ship is thoroughly cleansed from truck -to kelson; the decks are holy-stoned and the berth deck is shackled, -after which the men take a thorough shower-bath, don immaculate -uniforms, and all has the refreshing appearance of a swan on a lake. - -The essential duty of a “marine” on board a ship is to preserve order; -he fulfils the position of both sailor and soldier, and, while he is -sometimes dubbed a leather-neck, on account of his tight-fitting -uniform, by his more aquatically uniformed shipmate, it is -nevertheless noticeable that he is the first to cross the gang-plank -when there is trouble in the wind; and the number of “medals of honor” -and “certificates of merit” that have been awarded to marines since -1898 is the mute indubitable evidence of his fidelity and bravery; -however, this is not to be construed in any way to detract from the -loyalty of our brave “Jack tars.” - -Our ocean voyage from the Atlantic coast to the Fortress of Gibraltar -was beset with difficulties, due to a severe storm we encountered the -second day out, in which one of our cutters or life-boats was washed -away. This it seems was picked up by a “liner” _en route_ to Havre, -France, and, as we were four days overdue at Gibraltar, it was -believed that the cruiser had gone down with all on board. Some time -later along the African coast, it was amusing to read, in the Paris -edition of the New York _Herald_, our own obituary, and to see the -picture of the “flag-ship” and her crew going down to “Davy Jones’s -locker.” - -The storm abated as we came in sight of the Madeira Islands, but, -owing to our being overdue at the “Rock,” we were compelled to pass -this beautiful place without stopping. The voyage from the Madeiras to -the straits was quite calm, and we were again able to eat soup without -the aid of a dipper. - -When off duty I spent a great deal of time playing chess and reading. -We had an excellent library stocked with the best editions from the -pens of the most famous authors; besides a piano and excellent -performers, among these being the ship’s printer, E. Ludwig, well -known prior to his enlistment by the author. - -As outlines of the “Pillars of Hercules” appeared on the horizon, it -was evident that in a very few hours we would be plowing the waters of -the great Mediterranean Sea. The quartermaster and signal-men were -busy getting their signal-flags in shape, ammunition was hoisted for -the salute, and the marine guard and band were busy policing -themselves for the part they had to play in entering a foreign port. - -Passing through the Straits of Gibraltar, which separate the mainland -of Europe and Africa, we beheld, looming into the clouds, the most -magnificent and impregnable fortress of the world, Gibraltar. - -As we entered the bay of Algesiras, the huge guns of the fortress and -battleships of various nations belched forth an admiral’s salute of -thirteen guns; these were responded to by the American “flag-ship.” - -Gibraltar is an impregnable promontory fortress, seven miles around at -the base, and forms the southern extremity of Spain. It is fourteen -hundred and forty feet high at its highest point, is studded with -disappearing guns, and its honeycombed caverns contain munitions of -war for a campaign of many years. - -The population of Gibraltar is composed of English, Spaniards, Jews, -and Moors. A causey separates the town from the mainland of Spain. The -British side is patrolled by British soldiers, who are so close to the -Spanish sentries that the challenge can be heard at night by either -side. - -We remained in Gibraltar ten days, and had the pleasure of meeting a -large number of English soldiers and sailors at the “Royal Naval -Canteen,” where we swapped stories over a can of “shandy gaff,” which -is a mixture of stout and ginger ale. - -At the solicitation of some of the soldiers of the Royal Artillery, we -Americans accompanied them to the town of Algesiras, in Spain, to -witness a bull-fight. Engaging passage to a point of landing about -five miles across the bay, we embarked with a pent-up feeling of -excitement, overly eager to see the gay Castilians in their holiday -attire turn out _en masse_ for their national sport. - -On our arrival in town, we found business practically suspended, and -all making their way to the arena, which was enclosed by a high board -fence. On being admitted, we at once became objects of considerable -scrutiny, as the war fever had scarcely died out. - -Venders were busy disposing of their wares; senoritas, gayly bedecked -in flowers and loud colors, seemed to bubble over with enthusiasm; -horsemen galloped through the enclosure, and bands of music thrilled -this novel audience with inspiration. As we took our seats and -patiently awaited the onslaught, a sickening silence cast its pall -over this picturesque assemblage. This was momentary, however, as a -blast from a bugle was followed by the entrance of the alguazil and -mounted toreadors in costumes of velvet; the arrival of these -gladiators of the arena was heralded with a tumult of cheers, which -became deafening as the gate was thrown open and the bull rushed in. - -Mounted picadors were stationed in various parts of the arena, whose -duty it was to infuriate the animal by thrusting banderillas, or -spikes with ribbons attached, into the animal’s shoulders, others -waved robes or capes for the same effect. Charge after charge was made -on the matadore, who gracefully side-stepped the attack and awaited -the return of the bull, which had become frantic from the sting of the -banderillas. - -The last charge is made with defiance, but alas! is met with the -undaunted courage of the matadore, whose fatal blade reaches a vital -spot, adding another victory to his list of successful combats. -“Bravo! Bravo!” yell the maddened crowd, as the victor is showered -with compliments and carried from the arena. Preparations immediately -follow for a continuance of this semi-barbaric sport, and in like -manner each encounter was attended with the same skill of the matadore -and enthusiasm of the spectators. - -On leaving the arena, it was with little wonder at the Spanish for -their marked devotion to this their national sport, as it proved to be -exceedingly fascinating and fraught with great excitement. - -On our return to Gibraltar we journeyed to the naval canteen, where -sailors and marines of the British battleships _Endymion_ and -_Ben-bow_ were laying the foundation for a session of joy, the Boer -war being the chief topic of discussion. - -During the day the Governor-General of Gibraltar, Sir George White, -whose appointment had recently followed his winning the “Victoria -Cross” while in command of troops in South Africa, had been -entertained on board the American ship, in company with other notables -of the army and navy. - -After the ship had been coaled and various stores taken aboard, -anchors were weighed and the vessel steamed for Morocco, a sultanate -on the northwest coast of Africa. On reaching the straits the signal -was given to strip ship for action, all unnecessary impediment was -removed from the gun-decks and superstructure, awnings were furled and -secured by gasket, spars and davits lowered and all secured in places -of safety, while the big eight-inch turret guns free from tompions -were trained abeam or at right angles to the ship’s keel. - -On entering the harbor of Tangier, the customary salute was fired; -this was answered by the crumbling old forts of the Moors, relics of -the Dark Ages and monuments of antiquity. - -As the cruiser anchored with her starboard battery trained on the -city, it was evident that the visit was of far greater import than -that of a mere social call. - -The pressure of an indemnity is a matter of deep concern, the wilful -disregard of which is usually followed by hostilities. When one -sovereign nation calls on another sovereign nation to apologize, the -first nation is expected to resort to arms if the apology is not -forthcoming. Though not representing a sovereign nation, the mission -of the _New York_ in the harbor of Tangier was clearly perceptible as -an expounder of a precedent. - -The grand vizier of the Sultan of Morocco had made himself obnoxious -to America by refusing an interview with Mr. Gummere, United States -consul at the port of Tangier. For this discourtesy and other claims -of the United States long pending against the government of Morocco, -it was found necessary to despatch a war-ship to put pressure on the -Moors. - -The history of the conflicts between the Moors and the United States -had covered a period of more than one hundred years, dating back to -the naval wars of the infant nation with the Mediterranean pirates. -Discriminations against Americans and interference by officials of the -Sultan with Americans doing business in Morocco were largely due to -the ignorance of the Moors as to the power of the United States. - -Claim after claim was ignored by the Sultan. In 1897, in order to -bring this sublime potentate to a realizing sense of the importance of -recognizing the demands of the United States, the United States -cruisers _Raleigh_ and _San Francisco_, in command of Rear Admiral -Selfridge, were ordered from Smyrna to Tangier for the purpose of -lending support to Consul-General Burke. This act had its effect, as -promises were given that in the future discriminations would be -eradicated. - -In June, 1900, however, the strife was renewed when Marcus Ezegui, who -was a naturalized American citizen and manager of the Fez branch of -the French firm of Braunschweig and Co., while riding horseback -through a narrow street in Fez, jolted against the mule of a Moroccan -religious fanatic; a dispute ensued, the crowd siding with the Moor. -In self-defence Ezegui drew his revolver and fired, wounding a native. -This was the signal for a general attack on the American; he received -a dozen knife wounds, and was burned at a stake before life had become -extinct. - -For this atrocious crime the United States asked an indemnity of $5000 -and the punishment of the offenders; the request received little -adherence by the Moorish government; then the State Department -demanded $5000 for the failure of Morocco to punish the offenders. - -After much diplomatic correspondence between Washington and Fez, the -Moroccan capital, the United States battleship _Kentucky_ was ordered -across the Atlantic to procure the necessary demands. In this she was -partially successful, though failing to negotiate the demands in their -entirety. Time dragged on and promises remained unfulfilled. The -capital was moved time and again between the cities of Tangier and Fez -purposely to evade negotiations with the United States. It remained -for the _New York_ to consummate a successful issue, in the -undertaking of which she was ably commanded by Rear Admiral Frederick -Rodgers, whose iron-willed ancestors had bequeathed him a priceless -heritage,――the courage of his convictions combined with executive -diplomacy. - -On the reception of Consul-General Gummere by the admiral, it became -known adventitiously that the grand vizier of his Sultanic Majesty, in -company with the Sultan, had departed for the city of Fez. This they -called moving the capital. With the afore, aft, and waist eight-inch -“long toms” trained idly on the city and forts, Admiral Rodgers, with -flag-officers and escort and accompanied by Consul Gummere, departed -on a small British yacht for the city of Fez, with the determination -to promulgate his mission to his excellency’s government,――namely, its -choice of a satisfactory adjustment of the indemnity or the -unconditional alternate: a bombardment. It is needless to say that -this was the final negotiation, terminating with a successful and -honorable issue. - -A member of the ship’s crew having crossed the “great divide,” -permission for the obsequies and burial in Tangier was granted. In a -casket draped with the American colors, the body was conveyed by -launch to the beach, where pall-bearers, members of the departed -sailor’s division, took charge of the conveyance to the cemetery. With -muffled drums the band led off, playing a solemn funeral dirge, -followed by the procession, which included an escort of honor and -firing squad of marines. - -A circuitous route of three miles through narrow streets, with -buildings crumbling to decay and indicative of architecture of an -early period, led us to the cemetery on a shady plateau near the -outskirts of the city. Here the cortege halted, and the last rites -were solemnized by Chaplain Chidwick of the _New York_, well known as -the late chaplain of the ill-fated battleship _Maine_. Three volleys -were fired over the sailor’s grave, and the services closed -impressively with the sound of “taps,” “lights out.” - -As the band struck up “In the good old summer-time,” ranks were -broken, and the men roamed at will through the narrow, spicy-scented -streets, thronged with semi-barbarians, rough-riding vassals of the -Sultan costumed in turbans, sandals, and flowing robes, whose contempt -for all foreigners cannot brook restraint. It was a pleasant relief to -escape the fumes of this incensed city, to inhale the fresh ozone -aboard the man-of-war. - -On departing from Morocco, our cruise led to ports along the coast of -the great Mediterranean Sea. - - - - - III. - - Thrilling Adventure with Moors in the “Kasbah” of Algiers - - Moonlight on the Mediterranean――Meeting with O’Mally, a Pedestrian - of the Globe――“Birds of a Feather” in the Moulin Rouge――A Midnight - Hold-up by Moors; O’Mally with Gendarmes and French Soldiers to - the Rescue――A Pitched Battle in which Blood Flows Freely――French - Soldiers Drink the Health of the United States――Malta and Singers - of the “Yama Yama.” - - -A calm moonlight night on the waters of the Mediterranean Sea is the -most awe-inspiring feeling that can be manifested in the heart of a -man-of-war’s-man. The dark blue billows, resembling a carpet of -velvet, surging in mountainous swells, seem to reflect the glitter of -every star in the celestial firmament, while moonbeams dance in -shadowy vistas o’er the surface of the deep. It was on such a night -that our cruiser plowed her course from Palermo, Sicily, and entered -the land-locked harbor of the quaint old capital of Algeria. - -I can vividly remember the embodiment of contentment with which I was -possessed as I leaned on the taffrail of the ship and beheld the -illuminated city of Algiers, rising from the water’s edge diagonally -to an immense altitude. - -Life-buoys dotted the harbor, and a small light-house played a -search-light to our anchorage. After the anchors had been cast, booms -spread, the gig, barge, and steam-launches lowered, the deep -stentorian voice of the boatswain’s mate could be heard through the -ship, piping silence about the deck; taps had been sounded, and all -except those on duty were supposed to be swinging in their hammocks. - -With the loud report of the morning gun could be heard “Jimmy-legs,” -the master at arms, as he made his way through the berth-decks, -singing his daily ditty, “Rise, shine, and lash up.” This, repeated -rapidly for a period of five minutes, was likened unto a band of -colored brethren at a Georgia camp-meeting hilariously singing, “Rise, -shine, and give God the glory, glory,” et cetera. In fifteen minutes -every hammock had to be lashed according to navy regulations and -stored away in the hammock nettings. - -After breakfast in port, every man must appear military. Uniforms must -be pressed, buttons and shoes polished, and accoutrements ready for -inspection, for at eight bells the colors are hoisted, the National -air is played by the band, and visits of courtesy commence between the -various fleets and shore officers. - -The ship’s band renders music three times daily in port, and visiting -parties are conducted through the ship. A large number of bum-boats, -with their venders of fruit and curios, always surround the ship; -these people are an interesting class and present a picturesque scene, -with their quaint costumes, noisy chatter, and cargo of varieties. - -As in all other ports, the men entitled to “liberty” (a word used to -designate shore leave) make their preparation early, then await the -noon hour, when the boatswain’s mate pipes his whistle, and cries out: -“Lay aft all the liberty party.” All going ashore fall in, in double -rank on the quarter-deck, where they answer their names and pass down -the gangway and into boats, in which they are conveyed ashore, where -the boys cut loose from discipline and nothing is too good for “Jack.” - -On our first day in the harbor of Algiers I was on duty, and among -other announcements I had to make to the admiral was the announcement -of one Mr. O’Mally, a pedestrian from San Francisco, California, who -desired an interview with the admiral of the flag-ship _New York_. - -Mr. O’Mally was walking around the world for a wager; he had covered -the distance from San Francisco to New York, had walked through -Europe, and was at this time making his way through Africa. He had -come on board the American ship to have Admiral Rodgers sign his -credentials showing he had been at this point in Africa on this -particular date. At the close of the interview the admiral ordered me -to show our distinguished perambulator through the ship. I found him -to be a very congenial fellow, and was very much interested with his -stories of his travels by foot. - -Accompanied by his French interpreter, we started through the vessel, -I explaining everything of interest to their apparent satisfaction, -after which we returned to the quarter-deck, and, after exchanging -cards, Mr. O’Mally and his guide departed for the city, stating that -he would probably meet me in Algiers the following day, where I would -be on shore leave. - -The next day, accompanied by five other marines, with that almost -uncontrollable desire for pleasure and excitement known only by the -men who undergo the rigid discipline of the navy, I boarded a sampan -and was sculled ashore, where numerous guides, always in evidence in -foreign ports, offered to conduct us through the labyrinths of gayety. -Waving aside these pests, we ascended the stone steps leading to the -plaza overlooking the bay and a grand boulevard. This plaza was -thronged with pedestrians and equipages of the civic and military, -French and Moorish officers, gendarmes, tourists, fakirs, -fortune-tellers, Bedouins, and beggars, commingled, forming a most -cosmopolitan scene. Seeking an exchange, we converted some money into -centimes, sous, francs, and napoleons, and, after purchasing some -relics from the bazaars, engaged landaus and proceeded to see the -sights of this quaint African city. - -Arabs, Moors, Spaniards, Jews, French, Germans, Maltese, and -Italians――in fact, every nationality extant――seem to be represented -here. - -The City of Algiers was built about 935 A.D., was poorly governed by a -long succession of Turkish deys, and fell under the yoke of French -rule in 1830, obliterating the despotism which had long existed. - -The Boulevards, beautifully adorned with arcades and lined on either -side with orange and lime trees, are the scenes of magnificent -equipages drawn by blooded Arabian horses. - -The heat, though at times intense, is mitigated by a delightful cool -sea-breeze. - -The principal places of interest are the French bazaars, the Catholic -cathedral, the hot baths of Hammam Phira, the marketplace, casino, -public bath, coffee-houses, theatres, bank, quarters of the soldiers -of the foreign legion, the Moulin Rouge, identical with the famous -“Red Mill” of Paris, where “birds of a feather flock together,” and -where _L’amour et la fumee ne peuvent se cacher_. - -Discharging our landaus, we journeyed through the Rue Bab Azoun, -passing here and there groups of French and Moorish soldiers, and -occasionally brushing against women of the true faith, whose veils -hide many a beautiful face. - -In the cabarets or cafés which line the plazas, French soldiers can -frequently be heard singing the national air of France, the -“Marseillaise.” The cosmopolites who comprise the foreign legion are -an interesting body of soldiers, representing all nations, but serving -under the dominion of the French government. Entering a cabaret where -a game of roulette was in progress, we marines took a chance on the -roll of the ivory ball, in which some of the party increased their -wealth considerably. About every fourth turn of the ball, wine was -dispensed. I had been very lucky in my play, having several times -picked the number, column, and color at the same time, to the great -disgust of the croupier, whose radiant smile beams only when the wheel -wins. - -As conversation had become boisterous and my luck had taken a sudden -turn, I cashed in, and, after thanking the croupier for his kind -donations, whose smile portrayed a feeling of derision, I made my -exit. - -After depositing for safe keeping, in one of the leading hotels, -numerous curios and several hundred dollars in French currency, I -roved at random through the city without any special point of -direction. - -Having heard a great deal about the interesting sights to be seen in -the “Kasbah,” the Moorish quarter, which is the ancient fortress of -the deys and commands a view of the city from a height of five hundred -feet above sea level, I ventured to this weird section of the city. -Climbing the long winding stairway, or steps of stone, I soon found -myself encompassed by a collection of wild-looking Moors in flowing -robes, turbans, and sandals, the women similarly dressed, whose veiled -faces showed only their eyes, and the artistic tattooing in the centre -of their eyebrows, pranced through dimly lighted lanes, like Rip Van -Winkle’s hobgoblins of the Catskills. - -Being unable to hold conversation with these barbarians, I contented -myself with being a silent spectator of their grotesque actions. - -After making the rounds of various places of interest, where it was -distinctly obvious that I was an unwelcome visitor, I decided to -return to the better-lighted and more civilized plazas of the city. As -I tried to figure out my bearings on an imaginary compass, I became -bewildered, and in consequence followed any street which had an -incline. - -From the main street of the “Kasbah” are numerous short streets or -lanes, which seem to have no connection with other streets, -terminating at the entrance to a building. I had tried various ways to -reach the steps I had climbed, without success, and here realized the -importance of having a guide or an interpreter. Finally I sighted the -rays of a search-light, and later a light on the mainmast of a -merchant marine entering the bay. Following in the direction of this -light, I reached a badly lighted portion of this section of the city -overlooking a precipice, when, without a semblance of warning, my arms -and feet were pinioned, I was gagged with a roll of hemp, which was -placed under my chin and drawn taut around my neck. I made a desperate -struggle, but was helpless without the use of my arms, and was -compelled to yield when a blood-thirsty brigand placed the point of a -dirk against the spring of my affections,――namely, the region of my -solar plexus; and it is needless to say that “to slow music” I was -relieved of my personal possessions, including my watch, chain, -finger-ring, keys, money, letters, and trinkets, by six Moorish -brigands, who kindly refrained from casting me over the precipice. As -they broke away, I was left to ponder in amazement. - -It was absolutely futile for me to think of an attempt at anything -except that of securing myself and reaching the heart of the city. At -this juncture, and to my great surprise, I was delighted to see, -coming out of one of the narrow streets, my friend Mr. O’Mally the -pedestrian and his interpreter. Recognizing him instantly, I informed -him as to what had happened, which brought a cry from his interpreter -for the gendarmes and soldiers. In a few moments the soldiers and -police had arrived, and I led them in the direction the bandits had -taken, but at night it is impossible to distinguish one Moor from -another, for like Chinese they all look alike at night; therefore, the -soldiers contented themselves in beating them indiscriminately, as the -Moor is the French soldier’s bitterest enemy. - -These soldiers, unlike the American soldier, carry their side arms -when off duty, and it was with great difficulty that the gendarmes -prevented some of the Moors from being killed. At one stage of the -game we had a battle royal, and there are a number of Moors in the -“Kasbah” who carry scars as evidence of this night’s fracas. - -On our return to the plaza, I discovered that besides leaving the -buttons on my blouse the robbers had overlooked two gold napoleons -which I carried in the watch-pocket of my trousers, and, as the French -soldiers were not averse to accepting a potion of wine for their -services, it was not long before we were drinking to the health of the -United States and the French Republic. - -Mr. O’Mally and his guide left the party in the “wee sma” hours of the -morning, and, as three years intervened before my return to America, I -lost all trace of this interesting gentleman. - -Next day while returning to my ship, I received the intelligence that -the other marines who had accompanied me ashore had fallen into the -hands of the gendarmes for destroying the roulette-wheel and creating -a general “rough house,” due, they claimed, to crooked work on the -part of the croupier. Later in the day on paying a small fine they -were released. - -Our stay in Algiers covered a period of ten days, which included -Easter Sunday. This was a gala day on the plazas and along the -Boulevard; the services in the French cathedral were performed with -great pomp and ceremony; flowers were banked in profusion, while the -singing of the choir was decidedly of a rare quality. - -Before leaving this memorable city I had the pleasure of attending a -French masquerade ball in the Rue de Rome, where Parisian dancing -novelties were introduced and where fantastic costumes had no limit. - -The last day in Algiers was given to a reception, aboard the ship, to -the foreign legations. As usual on these occasions, the ship was gayly -decorated with flags of all nations. Easter lilies, which had been -presented to the admiral by Algerians, fairly covered the -quarter-deck. Dancing continued throughout the evening, the guests -departing at midnight to the strains of the “Marseillaise.” A few -hours later anchors were weighed, and, under a beautiful pale -moonlight, our cruiser steamed out of the harbor, carrying with it -everlasting memories of the picturesque City of Algiers. - -After a cruise of four days the Island of Gozo was sighted, and ere -long we had entered and anchored in Valetta, the capital of Malta. A -large British fleet lay anchored here, also a yacht having on board -his royal personage “The King of Siam,” who was making a cruise of the -Mediterranean Sea. “The Duke and Duchess of York,” on board the -_Ophir_ bound for Australia, for the opening of Parliament, was also -sighted in the Mediterranean Sea. - -The Island of Malta is of Arabic origin, but at present an English -possession. It is frequently mentioned in Biblical history, having -been conquered by the Romans two hundred and fifty years before the -birth of Christ. - -Near the City of Valetta a spot is pointed out as having been the -place where Paul the Apostle’s ship was wrecked. - -I heard Captain McKenzie of the _New York_ remark to the admiral that -Malta is the only place where a Jew cannot prosper, as a Maltese will -beat a Jew. - -The principal sights of Malta are the Strada san Giovanni in Valetta, -a wide stone stairway lined on either side with buildings of ancient -architecture, the ruins of a Roman villa and the Beggar’s Stairs. The -Maltese are a musically inclined people, and at night it was very -inspiring to hear the young people, as they coursed around the ship in -“gondolas,” singing selections from the famous “La Traviata” to the -accompaniment of mandolins and guitars, invariably offering as an -encore, the ever beautiful, Venetian “Yama Yama,” famous for ages -along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. - -It was with regret that Alexandria, our next port, was to end our -cruise on this magnificent body of water. - - - - - IV. - - From the Pyramids of Egypt to Singapore - - The Pyramids of Gizeh――The Sphinx――A Famous Relic of the Honeymoon - of Cleopatra and Mark Antony――Cairo――Camel Caravansary en route - from Syria to Cairo――Suez Canal――Red Sea――Mt. Sinai――Aden――A - Monsoon in the Indian Ocean――Singalese of Ceylon――Singapore. - - -On the arrival of our ship at Port Said, Egypt, the haven of -beach-combers and the most immoral city on the face of the earth, -preparations were at once made for coaling ship. Lighters loaded with -coal were towed alongside, and natives of the Nubian Desert relieved -the crew of this detestable task. Men were granted liberty with the -privilege of visiting Jerusalem or Cairo. It being necessary to travel -by boat a long distance to Jaffa in order to get a train for the Holy -Land, I decided to spend the time in seeing the sights of Cairo, the -Pyramids, Sphinx, and the Nile. - -Securing transportation, I boarded a train for the Egyptian capital; -not a very pleasant trip, however, as the heat was intense, and thick -gusts of dust were continually blown from the Sahara and Nubian -Deserts. - -The first novel sight that met my gaze was a camel caravansary with a -band of Arabs on their way from Cairo to Syria. Upon entering the -city, the Arabic architecture was the first to attract my attention, -the mosques and minarets particularly appearing prominent. The streets -were thronged with tourists of all nations; camels wending their way -and donkeys for hire or sale at every corner gave the city the aspect -of the “Far East.” - -I visited the Sacred Gardens of the “Howling Dervishes,” the tombs of -the Caliphs, an ostrich-breeding house, “Wells of Moses,” the mosque -of the Sultan Hassan, and several museums containing relics of -priceless value dating back to dynasties before the birth of Christ. - -In Shephard’s Hotel, Napoleon’s headquarters during his campaign in -Egypt, I saw, guarded with jealous care, the magnificent catamaran or -gondola in which the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra cruised the Nile during -her ostentatious honeymoon with Mark Antony. - -After visiting the citadel and places of less interest, I journeyed to -the streets where the music of the tomtoms was attracting attention. -The shades of night having fallen and my appetite being keen, I -sauntered into an Arabian café for dinner, where a string of Egyptian -dancers amused the guests with the muscle-dance, far surpassing -“Little Egypt” or “The Girl in Blue.” These dancers are serious in -their art, and to snicker at them is to manifest ridicule and is -considered an unpardonable breach of manners. - -After my “Seely dinner,” every course of which was served quite warm, -I repaired to my hotel and retired for the night. - -The following day I engaged a hack and journeyed across the grand -bridge of the Nile to the Pyramids and Sphinx. These landmarks of -prehistoric ages, seventy in number and considered one of the seven -wonders of the world, can be seen from a great distance looming up in -the desert. - -The Pyramids of Gizeh, on the west bank of the Nile, are the largest -of the group. The first or Great Pyramid covers thirteen acres at the -base, and is nearly five hundred feet high; it is honeycombed, and -contains the remains of the ancient rulers of Egypt. One hundred -thousand men were employed thirty years in its construction. - -Following our guide through the cavernous catacombs, we finally -reached the sarcophagus of Cheops, who ruled Egypt twenty-five -dynasties before the Christian era. After a random tramp of more than -an hour through this dreary dark abode, we returned to the light of -day, and, climbing the Pyramid, reached a point from where Napoleon -reviewed his troops after his campaign against the Mamelukes. - -Lying three hundred feet east of the second Pyramid is the colossal -form of the Sphinx, hewn out of solid natural rock, having the body of -a lion with a human head. It is one hundred and seventy-two feet long -and fifty-six feet high. The Sphinx was symbolic of strength, -intellect, and force, and thousands of Egyptians were employed twenty -years in its construction. - -Having spent two days of most interesting sight-seeing in this old -historical city, I returned to the cruiser, and after remaining a few -days in the harbor of Port Said, commenced our journey through the -Suez Canal. - -This canal, which connects the Mediterranean and Red Seas, was built -by Ferdinand De Lessepps, a Frenchman. France built the canal, but -England owns it, although she permits Frenchmen to run it. The idea -originally was not De Lessepps’, as there had been a canal connecting -the Mediterranean and Red Seas thirteen centuries before Christ. When -Napoleon was in Egypt, he also entertained the project, in order that -France might supplant England in the eastern trade; but it required -the indomitable courage and wonderful genius of De Lessepps to carry -the herculean task to triumph. - -The work was begun in 1860 and finished in 1869. One hundred million -dollars were spent, and thirty thousand men were employed in its -construction. The canal is eighty-eight miles long, twenty-six feet -deep, one hundred feet wide at the bottom, and about three hundred -feet wide at the top. The waters contain three times more salt than -ordinary sea water. There are stations along the route where ships tie -up to permit ships going in an opposite direction to pass. Its course -lies through the Nubian Desert, the land which Pharaoh gave to Joseph -for his father and brethren. An occasional drawbridge is in evidence -where the caravansaries cross going to and coming from the Holy Lands. - -A novel sight midway in the canal was a French transport loaded with -French soldiers returning from the Boxer campaign in China. Vociferous -cheering from the Americans was responded to by the Frenchmen. - -After ploughing the waters of the Suez Canal, our ship entered Bitter -Lake, where we anchored for the night, departing on our voyage at the -break of dawn. Entering “The Gate of Tears,” a strait between Arabia -and the continent of Africa, and so called from the danger arising to -navigation caused by strong currents, we beheld the entrance to the -Red Sea. The Twelve Apostles was the first memorial to remind us of -the historical chronology of this broad body of water. These -“apostles” seem to be of mysterious origin; they consist of twelve -symmetrical columns of rock, which project from the sea in a straight -line, the same distance apart, and shaped identically alike. Not far -from the coast on our port side could be seen Mt. Sinai and Mt. Horeb, -famed in biblical history. Some distance beyond is Mecca, the -Jerusalem of the Mohammedans, near which a spot is pointed out as -being the place where, under the providence of God, the Red Sea was -divided, making a dry pass for the deliverance of the Israelites from -their bondage in Egypt, under the leadership of Moses, the -God-inspired liberator of his people. - -Steaming by Mocha, celebrated for its production of the finest coffee -in the world, we entered the harbor of Aden, our first port in Arabia. -Aden is a city typical of the “Far East”; spices of a rich odor -permeate the atmosphere for miles from the coast. The city is built in -the crater of an extinct volcano, and has an altitude of one thousand -feet, is strongly fortified, and commands the trade to India. Arabs -engage in trade of all kinds; beautiful ostrich feathers, Bengal tiger -skins, and ornaments of carved ivory, and souvenirs of sandal-wood are -displayed in the bazaars. Aden is not the dreariest place on earth, -but the few palm trees which surround the city only serve to remove it -a bit from this inconceivable state. - -The heat in this section of the world is intense, and, as we steamed -out of the harbor of Aden, it seemed we were ploughing through molten -copper; however, the nights were cool. After passing through the -Straits of Bab el Mandeb and the Gulf of Aden, we entered the Indian -Ocean, enjoying a delightful cool breeze; but soon encountered an -interval of calm, which was followed by an East Indian “monsoon,” a -veritable hurricane at sea. Engines were shut down, guns were lashed, -hatches battened, and lookouts were strapped to the crow’s nest. -Mountainous swells of water washed aboard the ship, and for nine hours -the vessel was at the mercy of the waves. The storm having finally -abated, our rigging was restored, awnings spread, and, after a few -days of delightful cruising in the Indian Ocean, we entered the harbor -of Colombo, the capital of Ceylon, firing the customary salute, which -was returned by the forts and the various navies here represented. - -Ceylon, a British possession, is an island in the Indian Ocean, lying -southeast of the peninsula of Hindustan, and is covered with a rich -luxuriance of tropical vegetation. The Singhalese are the most -numerous of its inhabitants; they are devoted to Buddhism, the -prevailing religion of the island. In Kandy, an inland town near the -capital, the sacred tooth of Buddha is guarded with jealous care. - -Ceylon is rich in metals, minerals, and precious stones; its gems, -such as sapphires, rubies, topaz, garnets, amethysts, and cats-eye, -have been celebrated from time immemorial. The interior of the island -abounds with birds of paradise and immense bats resembling the -vampire. Animals, such as the elephant, bear, leopard, wild boar, -deer, and monkeys, roam at will, while the crocodile, tortoise, and -large lizards, infest the bogs of the jungle. A celebrated mountain -visible from Colombo is Adam’s Peak, which attains the height of 7420 -feet above sea-level. - -Colombo, the capital, a fortified city on the western side of the -island, shaded by the trees of the cocoanut palm, is progressive as a -maritime port and particularly as the entrepôt for the East India -trade. The hotels are furnished with “punkahs,” while hammocks of -rattan are stretched on every veranda. - -In addition to the native Singhalese, Hindus, Tamils, Moors, Malays, -and Portuguese engage in various occupations, a large number of these -being employed on the coffee and tea plantations. - -In the Prince of Wales Hotel I met some soldiers of the famous “Black -Watch” who had participated in the Boer War and who had been sent to -Colombo to recuperate; I accompanied them to their barracks, where we -exchanged various curios. - -A large revenue is derived by the government from the pearl-fishery in -the Gulf of Manaar, and whales are captured off the coast. - -Seven days were spent in the harbor of Colombo, after which our ship -steamed across the Indian Ocean, and through the Straits of Malacca to -Singapore, an island in the Straits Settlements, south of the Malay -Peninsula, and eighty miles from the equator. It commands the highway -leading from British India to China, and became a British possession -by a treaty with the Sultan of Johore in the year 1824. - -Singapore is the entrepôt for the trade of the Malayan archipelago and -China; its chief exports are tapioca, tin, tortoise-shell, camphor, -coffee, nutmegs, gutta percha, and rattan. Situated on the south side -of the island, the town has a very oriental appearance, and its -inhabitants represent sixteen nationalities speaking different -tongues, the most enterprising of these being the Chinese. Though very -warm, the climate is healthy and it is seldom subjected to quarantine. - -For ages past the tiger has been a menace to Singapore, and the -government’s archives record an average of three hundred Chinese and -other natives carried off annually by these blood-thirsty man-eaters. - -While lying in the harbor of Singapore, the crew of the _New York_ had -the opportunity of witnessing a total eclipse of the sun. Astronomers -from various nations had come to take observations and data for the -official chronological records of their respective governments. It was -an amusing sight to watch the natives as the eclipse passed over the -sun; their superstition led them to believe that the end of the world -had come, and their utterance and performance were ridiculous. - -From Singapore our ship steamed into the China Sea for ports in the -Philippine Islands. - - - - - V. - - Hong Kong, China, and the Denizens of the Underworld - - A Trip to Canton――“Happy Valley” the “Epsom Downs” of the Far - East――Discovery of an American Actress in an Opium Joint――A “Rough - House” in which Guns are Drawn――Moonlight Meditations on the - Quarter-deck of the _Rainbow_――Encounter with a Victim of Brain - Storm. - - -I had made numerous trips across the China Sea, and had been up and -down the Chinese coast from Taku to Saigon several times, on board the -United States Cruiser _New York_, during the Boxer campaign. On this -particular trip, however, I was serving on board the United States -Flagship _Rainbow_, in the capacity of orderly to the junior commander -of the Asiatic fleet, the late Rear Admiral Wilde. - -This trip had been looked forward to with great pleasure as our ship -was scheduled for dry dock and this meant lots of shore leave for the -crew. - -Leaving Manila we steamed across the China Sea, which required about -three days. After the usual quarantine inspections we entered the -land-locked harbor and cast anchor near Kowloon, a town on the -mainland of China. - -Hong Kong is situated on Victoria Island and is a British possession; -the island rises to an immense altitude on the slope of which, facing -Kowloon, spreads the City of Hong Kong. The entrance to the harbor is -well fortified and from a light-house on a cliff a powerful light is -cast at night for miles over the China Sea. - -Having visited Hong Kong several times, it was my desire this time to -pay a visit to the more typical Chinese City of Canton. So, -accompanied by the Japanese steward of the _Rainbow_, I secured -passage on the British side-wheeler _Moonlight_. - -The passengers seemed to represent every nation on earth. There were -Bombay and Chinese merchants, American and European tourists, East -Indian Sikhs, Japanese waiters, and Chinese sailors. - -After an all night run on the Pearl River, dawn broke with our eyes -fastened on this great Chinese city, Canton. Here years could be spent -without learning a great deal about its historical calendar. - -Entering through a gate of the old stone wall, we found the only -European hotel in the city, the “Victoria,” where, after having had -breakfast, we engaged two sedan chairs carried by coolies, and sought -the places of interest. The streets are so narrow that two chairs can -just barely pass each other. We visited the ancient pagodas, the -execution ground and block where highbinders are beheaded, the -markets, bazaars, and opium dens, and finally witnessed a Chinese -wedding. - -One of the interesting sights of the Pearl River is its floating -population. It is estimated that three million Chinese live in junks -on this river. - -I was not at all reluctant to leave this relic of the dark ages for -the more up-to-date city of Hong Kong. We know the nations of the -earth are represented in our New York, but for real cosmopolitanism -the “Queen’s Road” in Hong Kong makes old Broadway look like a street -in a country village. - -The principal enterprises of Hong Kong are shipping, the manufacture -of chinaware, silk goods, sedan wood-work, and pyrotechnics. Labor is -very cheap, and, as British imports are entered free of duty, the -living in this city of the far East is very cheap. - -Many Hong Kong Chinamen are educated in the English language, have -adopted the customs and manners of the English people, and for -cleverness in business and practical affairs are unexcelled. - -A tram-way leads up the mountain-side to the Peak Hotel, from which -you can be conveyed in sedan chairs to the zenith of Victoria Peak. At -the Peak Hotel I met two American prospectors, with whom I played -several games of billiards; these men had spent three years in Sumatra -and were awaiting a liner for “Frisco.” With them I visited Happy -Valley, the Chinese Court, the Dairy Farm, Douglass Castle, Kennedy -Road, the Chinese market, the Royal Naval Canteen, the barracks of the -Welsh Fusileers, the Highlanders, the Scots Guards, and the Sikhs, old -Chinese joss houses, and the famous Traveller’s Inn, where British -bar-maids do the honors. - -Horse-racing is the favorite sport in Hong Kong, and the track at -Happy Valley is the Epsom Downs of the Far East. A Derby is a signal -for the suspension of business, and the excitement in the paddock, -grand stand, and along the rail is akin to that at Sheepshead Bay on -the day of the Brooklyn handicap. - -The Chinese are born gamblers, whether playing at “fan tan” or picking -the winners on the track. They will carry complete data of a horse: -the distance he can go at his best; the weight he can best carry; -whether fast or slow in starting; and whether a good or bad animal in -mud; all this a Chinaman will study over before placing his money, and -it is usually safe to follow his system. - -Hong Kong, like all other cities of the earth, has its underworld. -These labyrinthal subways, where flourish the opium dens, are as -thickly infested with thugs as are the darkest recesses of Mulberry -Bend. Having accompanied a party of Highlanders and Welsh Fusileers -into these dimly lighted caverns, for the purpose of seeing opium -smoked, we fell upon sights which seemed degrading even to a party of -slumming soldiers; here and there in deep recess were cots on which -reclined the sleeping forms of seminude victims of the yenhock. -Further on, an American girl in a kimono approached me with the query -as to what part of the United States I was from. Her flushed face -indicated that she was under the influence of “samshu,” a popular -native intoxicant. She told me how eager she was to get back to her -native land, but how impossible it seemed to raise the price of the -transportation. Her home she said was in St. Louis, that she had -accompanied a theatrical troupe from San Francisco to Australia, which -had stranded and disbanded in Sydney; from Australia she had -accompanied a troupe through the Straits Settlements, and finally -arrived in Hong Kong, only to fall a victim to the plague, from which -she recovered, and finally drifted penniless into the abode of the -denizens of the underworld. Her story was a sad one, but you meet the -same class and hear similar stories in all cities of the world. As we -bade her adieu and passed on through this “chamber of horrors,” we -could hear her voice, singing, “Give me just one little smile; every -little bit helps.” - -There were some ugly-looking heathens in this underground bee-hive, -and, before leaving, we played at “fan tan,” having considerable luck, -which seemed to irritate an almond-eyed highbinder to such an extent -that he broke up the game. This caused a Highlander to hand him a jolt -on the eye, and this started a “rough house,” in which I was compelled -to declare peace along the barrel of my Colt automatic; it looked like -work for a coroner, but Chinese are afraid of a gun, and the -resumption of order was momentary. - -Having visited every nook and cranny of this quaint city during my ten -days’ shore leave, I returned to the arduous duties about the deck of -a “man-of-war.” - -The _Rainbow_ had changed her position from the anchorage ground in -the bay to a dry dock in Kowloon opposite the City of Hong Kong; here -she was undergoing a process of renovation. - -On board a “man-of-war” the hours for performing duty are divided into -three watches, each watch commencing at eight bells. At eight o’clock -commences what is known as the first watch, this watch is relieved at -twelve o’clock by the mid watch, and this is relieved at four o’clock -by the dog watch, the night watches being regulated the same as the -day. - -In the navy the non-commissioned officers of the guard exercise no -authority over the orderlies of the admiral and “skipper,” and there -is no posting an orderly, as in the case of a sentry, there being a -mutual compact that each relief report promptly on the hour. - -At night it is customary for each orderly to waken his own relief. As -eight bells struck for the dog watch, I was in the bulkhead leading to -the admiral’s cabin, testing my annunciator and receiving any verbal -orders which might have been left by the flag-officer or officer of -the deck. On this particular night Admiral Wilde, who “by the way” -commanded the _Boston_ of Dewey’s fleet at the battle of Manila Bay, -accompanied by Commander Staunton of the _Rainbow_, had left the ship -to attend a dinner party on board the British commerce destroyer -_Terrible_. - -The old man being away, I spent my watch in leisure, as an admiral’s -orderly takes orders from no one but the admiral. After sampling a few -of his mild Manila cigars and running off a few letters on the -typewriter, I climbed aloft to the quarter-deck, where the capstan and -brass tompions of the big aft eight-inch guns shone bright in the -moonlight. - -What a night this was! Never on such a night could Dewey’s fleet have -passed unseen the forts of Corregidor. There, stretching over the -mountain-side of Victoria, lay the illuminated City of Hong Kong; the -wavelets of the Pearl River, with its myriads of junks and sampans, -seemed to dance in the moonlight; off at the entrance, from the tower -of a light-house, a powerful revolving search-light cast its rays -beyond the horizon of the China Sea. Here and there dotting the harbor -were the “dogs of war” of the American, British, German, and French -navies; large junks with colored Chinese lanterns at the bow, which -trembled in the soft breeze, and an eye on either side, to guide it on -its way, passed to and fro, like phantoms of the mist. - -All was silent about the deck. The tramp, tramp, tramp of the big East -Indian Sikh who patrolled the water front was the only sound to -disturb the tranquillity of this dream-like night. As I leaned on the -taffrail of the quarter-deck, in deep meditation, I thought of what a -prodigious subject this scene would make for the pen of a Byron or a -Browning, and that it was on such a night in Venice that Desdemona -eloped with her tawny Moorish warrior. - -As my eyes feasted on the grandeur of these moonlight scenes, the -tongue of the bell tolled seven; it was half past eleven and time to -call my relief. With a dark lantern I started for the berth-deck; near -the entrance to the conning tower I was approached by an excited -sailor, who asked my opinion of the terrible massacre in Hong Kong. I -informed the fellow that I had heard nothing of a massacre, whereupon -he volunteered to show me a bulletin; leading the way to the -pilot-house, he found it locked; gazing through the window, the man -exclaimed, “Look there! read that!” The light was on, and, sure -enough, there was a scrip attached to the wheel, the writing of which -it was impossible to read. - -Having aroused my curiosity, I further inquired as to the -circumstances leading to the massacre. For several minutes the fellow -was non-committal, acting surprised at my ignorance in not even having -heard the report of the guns. Impulsively he shouted, “Look there! see -that cloud of smoke? The Inniskilling Dragoons have fired on the Royal -Artillery, and, as the result of the conflict, ten thousand natives -lie strewed in death.” This unusual surprise did not exactly paralyze -me, but it was the cue for me to make my exit, which I did with -symptoms of the ague, having made an excuse to go below for a pair of -binoculars that we might gaze on the scene more clearly. - -This was my first experience with a victim of brain storm, and, -although I shrink from the admittance of “having cold feet,” I must -admit that the atmosphere on this occasion was unduly chilly. - -On the main deck I met some coal-passers who had been gambling in the -engine-room; apprising these fellows of there being a crazy man on -deck, we concurred in the advisability of notifying the master at arms -and having him put away for safe keeping. In a short time the fellow -was manacled and led to the brig, protesting his innocence of having -been a party to the massacre. - -Upon examination by the surgeon, the man was removed to the “sick -bay,” where it developed that the unfortunate fellow was suffering -from acute melancholia. During the investigation to consider the -advisability of sending him to a sanitarium in Yokohama, he tried to -cough up a ten-inch shell which he claimed to have accidentally -swallowed. Having undergone a course of treatment on the Island of -Hondo, Japan, the fellow fully recovered, and I have since learned -that he regained his normal health and is prospering in the middle -West. - -Upon completion of our ship in dry dock, we bade adieu to the land of -the heathen Chinee and steamed into the China Sea _en route_ to the -Sula Archipelago, spending Thanksgiving in the harbor of Puerto -Princessa on the Island of Palawan. - - - - - VI. - - A Trip to Japan - - Departure of the “Flag-Ship” from Manila――A Typhoon in the China - Sea――The Inland Sea of the “Rising Sun”――Baseball with the Kobe - Country Club――Fujiyama――Yokohama――Tokio, and the Imperial Palace - of the Mikado――A French Fleet Celebrates the Taking of the - Bastille――Unveiling of Perry’s Monument――A Reception on Board the - _New York_ to the Nobility of the “Flowery Kingdom.” - - -The United States Cruiser _New York_,――flying the ensign of Rear -Admiral Rodgers, commander-in-chief of the Asiatic station, who had -received orders to proceed to Yokohama, Japan, to participate in the -unveiling of a monument erected by the Japanese government in -commemoration of the achievement of Commodore Perry, his grandfather, -who anchored there with his fleet in 1854, and, as ambassador sent by -President Filmore, succeeded in opening the ports of Japan to foreign -commerce,――drew anchor June 25, 1901, and steamed into the China Sea, -with the gun-boat _Yorktown_ following in her wake. - -The cruise was uneventful for the first few days, when, about 11 A.M. -of the third day, the barometer suddenly dropped several degrees and -dark, heavy clouds gave evidence that a typhoon was approaching. All -sails on board were secured, guns were lashed, hatches battened down, -and sou’westers donned by the lookouts. A few minutes later we were -being rocked in a heavy sea; a terrible gale of wind, whistling -through the ventilators, brought relief to the coal-passers below. Our -deep fog-whistle was blown every minute, and the boatswain and his -mates were active and constantly on the alert. Our engines were kept -going as usual, and by evening the typhoon had broken and we were -sailing on a fair sea off the coast of Formosa. - -After two days’ more sail, occasionally passing a man-of-war or -mail-steamer, we sighted the beautiful islands of the Inland Sea, the -land of the Rising Sun, which we entered at sunrise. This land-locked -Japanese body of water is a broad lake over two hundred miles long, -filled with islands and sheltered by uneven shores. From sunrise to -dark, shadowy vistas opened and peaceful shores golden with ripening -grain slipped by. There was nothing to disturb the dream-like charm, -and yet human life and achievement were constantly in sight. Along the -shores stretched chains of villages, with stone walls, castles, and -temples soaring above the clustered roofs, or peeping from wooded -slopes were terraced fields of rice and grain, ridging every hill to -its summit and covering every lower level. - -Dotted throughout this fairy-like lake are stone torrils, miniature -light-houses, which guide the ships at night. Junks and sampans lie -anchored in fleets or creep idly across the water, and small coasting -steamers thread their way in and out among the islands. For miles we -steamed by what is supposed to be the most picturesque scenery in the -world. It was yet twilight when Kobe was seen in the distance at the -head of the Inland Sea, sheltered from the land by the range of -mountains back of it. We entered the harbor after having been -inspected by the Japanese quarantine officials, and anchored astern of -the British battleship _Aurora_. Before the last notes of tattoo were -sounded our booms were spread and launches lowered, and the -beautifully illuminated city of Kobe lay before us. Kobe means “Gate -of God” and is the model foreign settlement of the eastern part of -Japan, with a population of 215,000. - -A pretty park in the heart of the concession, shaded by camphor trees -and ornamented by groups of palms, thatched summer houses, and a -bell-tower, was once the execution ground of Hiogo. A line of -tea-houses cover the brow of the hill, which is also dotted here and -there with orange groves. The streets are lined with curio shops and -jinrikshaws drawn by coolies. Here we spent the Fourth of July; the -men-of-war lying here all dressed in holiday attire, our flag-ship -fired a salute of twenty-one guns. In the afternoon our base-ball -team, accompanied by the band and all those eligible for liberty, went -ashore, where we crossed bats with the Kobe country club, our band -rendering inspiring music during the game. The result was a whitewash -for the country club, who entertained us lavishly at their club-house -in the evening. - -After spending two weeks in this city we set out for Yokohama, making -the voyage in thirty hours. After passing the famous light-ship at the -entrance to Yokohama harbor, we were met by the quarantine officials. -Their usual routine of work completed, we steamed into the harbor, -firing a national salute of twenty-one guns, which was returned by the -forts and by the British, French, Italian, and Japanese men-of-war, -our band playing the national airs of the various countries here -represented, the marines presenting arms. Casting anchor near the -French cruiser _Friant_, the usual visits of courtesy were exchanged. - -Numerous vessels of the merchant marine of all nations, besides -men-of-war, brigs, yachts, barks, sampans, and junks, were scattered -profusely over the harbor, coming and going, bells rang in chorus -around the anchorage ground, saluting and signal-flags slipped up and -down the masts, while the bang and low-rolling echo of the ship’s guns -made mimic war. At night the harbor dazzles with various colored -lights, while the search-lights of the “men-of-war” illuminate -sections of the city on the heights. - -Yokohama lies between immense bluffs, on one of which the stars and -stripes are seen flying over an American hospital. Beyond the bluff -proper stretches the race-course, from which can be seen Fujiyama, or -sacred mountain, which is invested with legends; it is said to have -risen up in a single night, two thousand years ago, and for centuries -pilgrims have toiled up the weary path to pray at the highest shrine -and to supplicate the sun at dawn. - -Fujiyama, with the circling storks and ascending dragons, symbolizes -success in life and triumph over obstacles. Until the year 1500 it was -a living volcano. A road leads from “Fuji” to Mississippi Bay, where -Commodore Perry’s ships anchored in 1854. - -To the port side lies Kanagawa, well fortified; just beyond is the -grave of Richardson, the Briton who was killed, by the retainers of -the prince of Satsuma in 1862, for deliberately riding into the -daimyo’s train. A memorial stone, inscribed with Japanese characters, -marks the spot where Richardson fell. This cost the Japs the -bombardment of Kagishima and an indemnity of 125,000 pounds. - -Near this spot is situated black-eyed Susan’s tea-house, a favorite -resort for tourists. According to one version, “Susan’s strand” is -where the Rip Van Winkle of Japan (Urashima) sailed on an immense -tortoise for the home of the sea king. Yokohama is surrounded by rich -silk districts, orchards, and the most beautiful flowers I have ever -seen. The villages in the suburbs are very picturesque, with narrow -roads and shady paths leading through perpetual scenes of sylvan -beauty: bamboo trees, thatched roofs, and gnarled camphor trees -everywhere charm the eye. - -Tokio, the capital, is but eighteen miles from Yokohama. The city is -intensely interesting; Japanese ladies in silk kimonos and straw -sandals, fluttering along the streets like butterflies, invariably -wearing a red carnation in their neatly dressed coal-black hair, -present a pretty sight as they enter and leave their quaint little -tea-houses; you are reminded of the scenes in the Mikado, San Toy, and -Geisha operas. The jinrickshaw man is everywhere in evidence, ready to -convey you to any part of the city; for one yen, or about fifty cents -in American gold, he will haul you around for an entire morning. - -The coolies of Japan are superior to those of Ceylon and Singapore in -the power of endurance and intelligence, the former being full of -spirit and animation, while the latter possess that languorous -indifference characteristic of the Straits Settlements native. - -The Imperial Palace, the abode of the Mikado, is a magnificent edifice -surrounded by the Imperial Gardens, which cover a vast area of ground; -a short distance beyond, with no less ostentation, stands the palatial -residence of the Empress Dowager. My “rickshaw coolie” having taken me -into this Imperial Park, I was admiring the beauty thereof, when we -were approached by a sentry who admonished the coolie to proceed no -farther; when I urged him to continue, he informed me he was afraid of -being shot, whereupon we returned to the more peaceable surroundings -along the studios of the “geishas.” - -The police register the arrival of all strangers, keeping a record of -their movements and admonishing them as to their behavior. The temples -are of great interest; in one I was shown the tomb of Buddha, whose -final interment, like the disposition of the bones of Columbus and -John Paul Jones, has been based on presumptive evidence. - -Besides the diplomatic corps, there are a great many missionaries in -Tokio, while the army is everywhere in evidence. - -July the 14th, the day set for the unveiling of Commodore Perry’s -monument at Uraga, dawned with a heavy fog hanging over the harbor. -Coincident with this event was the anniversary of the destruction of -the “Bastille,” which the flag-ship of the French fleet, the cruiser -_Friant_, had prepared to celebrate. - -About 7.45 A.M. quarters sounded: the marines formed an alignment on -the starboard side of the quarter-deck, attired in full dress; -saluting gun crews fell to the forward six-pounders, and blue-jackets -formed an alignment on the port side. Everything ready, my annunciator -rang, and I reported to Admiral Rodgers, eight bells and under way. As -we steamed by the British, French, German, Italian, and Japanese -war-vessels, followed by the American fleet, the various bands played -“The Star-Spangled Banner,” the marines presenting arms, while the -American band played the Japanese national air, and in turn the -“Marseillaise,” the national air of the French republic. In less than -an hour we had entered the harbor of Kurahama, near Uraga, firing a -salute of twenty-one guns, our ships dressed in holiday attire from -bow to stern, with the Japanese ensign flying at the main. Our salute -was returned by the Japanese, and we anchored near the spot where -Commodore Perry’s ships anchored in 1854. - -The Japanese fleet represented ancient, medieval, and modern warfare, -and included two of the most modern battleships afloat at that -time,――namely, the _Shikishima_ and _Hatsuse_, both of which figured -prominently in the bombardment of the Liaotung Peninsula and the -terrible slaughter of the Russians in the Straits of Korea. - -The Yokohama Yacht Club was well represented in the harbor, and every -craft and packet, down to the odd-looking sampan, endeavored to appear -festive and holiday like. - -The terrible weather prevented what was to have been a very imposing -ceremony. Thousands of Japanese from Tokio, Yokohama, Hakodate, Kioto, -Kobe, Osaka, Nagasaki, and the interior villages, had congregated to -witness the unveiling. A guard of five hundred marines from the fleet, -with the naval band of the _Hatsuse_, landed and were stationed in -front of the monument. The officers of the ships and government -officials were stationed on stands erected. - -About twelve o’clock the ceremonies commenced with the band rendering -the Japanese national air, Admiral Rodgers broke the cords that held -the veil, and the monument was put in view. The United States -minister, Colonel A. E. Buck, being ill, an address was made by J. M. -Ferguson, secretary of the legation, who dwelt on the progress of -Japan and the friendship existing between her and America since the -opening of her ports to foreign commerce, and other beneficent -consequences that have followed Commodore Perry’s visit. - -This was followed by a speech in Japanese by Premier Viscount Kasura, -after which Admiral Rodgers addressed the assemblage. Governor Sufu -also spoke in Japanese, and this was followed by the last address, -made by Rear Admiral Beardsley (retired), who was a midshipman on -Commodore Perry’s flag-ship over half a century ago. - -After several appropriate selections by the band, during which -courtesies and greetings were exchanged, this military and civic -pageant, drenched by the rain that continually fell, dispersed to -their respective vessels and returned to Yokohama. - -The monument consists of an immense slab of granite, resting on a -large granite foundation, on which the inscription, in Japanese -characters, translated is: “This monument marks the landing-place of -Commodore Perry, of the United States of America”; on the reverse -side, “Landed on the 14th July, 6th year Kayai; constructed on the 1st -July, 34th year Meiji.” It is thirty-four feet high and weighs -nineteen tons. - -It was about five o’clock when the anchors of the _New York_ were -again hauled, and before supper was over we had again entered Yokohama -Bay, where the _Friant_ lay beautifully dressed in various-colored -flags, and literally covered with incandescent lights, the name -_Friant_ shining over the mizzen-top. - -As the guns of the American war-ship belched forth a national salute, -in honor of the day that changed the current of events in France, the -American band struck up the “Marseillaise” (Chant de Guerre de l’Armee -du Rhin), and as the ship cast her anchors off the port bow of the -British commerce-destroyer _Terrible_, rapturous enthusiasm was -exhibited by the sailors. The festivities on board the French -flag-ship were joined in the evening by the officers of the various -fleets represented, and this ended a day of pleasure and events. - -The following day a reception was tendered by the Americans, on board -the _New York_, to representatives of the nobility, officers of the -army and navy of Japan, members of the legation, civilian -representatives, and officers of the various fleets. The ship was -dressed in her best holiday attire for this occasion, and it was a -gala day for all on board. Ladies of various nations vied with one -another for beauty and effect. Japanese attired in European dress, -many of whom had been educated in the United States and Europe and -spoke Anglo-Saxon fluently, were there with sparkling vivacity. Lunch -was served on board by Japanese waiters, who could carry eighteen -goblets of champagne on one tray without spilling a drop. Music and -dancing were the chief features of the day. - -The ship remained in Yokohama two weeks on this trip, steaming from -here to the famous dry-dock at Kure on the Island of Hondo. Here the -cruise was curtailed, owing to American interests requiring pressure -along the Chinese coast, where piracy in various forms was found -flourishing brazenly red-handed. After remaining two weeks in the -harbor of Amoy, the cruiser _New York_ steamed off in the darkness for -the Malay Peninsula. - - - - - VII. - - War Orders in the “Land of the Rising Sun” - - Sacred Ports of the “Mikado”――The “Kobe Country Club”――A Baseball - Game――War Orders――Under Forced Draft to Manila――A Company of the - Ninth Infantry Annihilated by “Bolomen”――A Midnight Bombardment - along the Coast of Samar――Death and Solemn Burial of a - Midshipman――Blowing up a “Banco”――A Fight in the Gandarra - Straits――Midnight Fusillade――Terrible Deprivations――War is - Hell――Return to the Land of the “Rising Sun.” - - -Through the courtesy of the Mikado of Japan, Admiral Rodgers, -commanding the American Asiatic squadron, had been granted the unusual -privilege of visiting, with his flag-ship the _New York_, ports in the -land of the “Rising Sun” whose harbors, surrounded by a succession of -mountain scenery and terraced hills of fantastic formation, had never -been graced by the flag of a foreign nation. It was therefore hailed -with delight by all on board when the news was promulgated about the -decks, that ere long our sea-going home would be winding her way -through the thread-like channels of the most beautiful body of water -extant, the “Inland Sea” of Japan, in the fashioning of which nature’s -handiwork reached its highest degree of excellence, unquestionably -supervised by all the “gods” of the omnipotent realm. - -From the Malay Peninsula, and ports along the Celebes Sea, our ship -ploughed her way to the smaller islands of the Philippine archipelago, -where the crew had been occupied for several months placing beacons -and bell-buoys along the rocks and shoals. - -Some time had been spent in target practice in the China Sea, both -shell and torpedo, and, with the exception of an occasional run to -Zamboango or Cebu, isolated ports, the monotony was intensified by the -lack of news from the outside world. - -“Heaving the hook” (as the sailors say) one cloudy morning, as the -mist hung o’er the rice fields, the cruiser steamed for an anchorage -of a few days in the waters of Manila Bay. Lord, what a relief! We had -been coaling ship from colliers, and living on “salt-horse,” -hard-tack, and beans for nearly four months; and this was not the -worst of all, for we had had no mail from home (anywhere in the good -old United States was home), and mail in these foreign ports was -mighty precious. Even the poor fellow who seemed homeless and -friendless would listen with tears in his eyes, while his shipmate -read him passages written by some one in the home land. - -Arriving in Manila Bay the ship cast anchor off Cavite, innumerable -sacks of mail were soon brought aboard, and as the master-at-arms -yelled out, “Mail O, mail O, on the starboard side of the gun-deck!” a -scrimmage ensued, such as would make the army and navy foot-ball -contest look like a game of quoits at a country fair. This day it -required two assistants to the master-at-arms in handling the bulk of -letters, papers, and periodicals that had accumulated during our -absence from civilization, the distribution of which reminded me of -the post-office scene from an old sketch at Carncross and Dixey’s -Philadelphia “play-house.” - -Such queries as the following could be heard on the deck: “How many -letters did you get, Jack?” “Oh, I haven’t counted them, but here’s a -good one: ‘Dear Jack, how is it you never speak of your roommate? Is -he tall or short? Where does he come from and what is his name?’ Now, -wouldn’t that shatter your shingles?” “Say, fellows, did you hear what -‘Jack o’ the Dust’s’ sweetheart wrote? She wants to know if the -Philippines are anywhere near Germany. He is going to write and tell -her they are a little south of Germany and China.” “Hello, ‘Sinbad,’ I -don’t see you reading any mail,” is jokingly aimed at a husky “tar,” -whose derisive reply is, “No, nor you don’t see me answering -advertisements either.” For genuine humor, the arrival of mail aboard -a “man-of-war” in a foreign port is one droll dramatic comedy. - -Three weeks later found the flag-ship gracing the bay of Nagasaki, -where Baron Kaneko and party of envoys boarded the cruiser, as guests -of Admiral Rodgers, for a trip through the Inland Sea. - -The first port the vessel steamed for was Mitsugahamo, whose -land-locked harbor was entered toward evening, the blazing sheen of -the setting sun tingeing a deep sapphirine sky, reflecting from the -mirror-like bay to the craggy cliffs whose contour shone in -amethystine beauty. As the sun sank behind the cliffs, the iron clang -of clattering chains was heard lowering the anchors. This American -ship had been the first foreign vessel to enter the channel of this -sacred port of the pristine Shoguns. - -The people of this island, in their more than semi-nudeness, -courtesied to the ground on meeting the Americans, offering their -broad sun-shades during the day, and providing sandals for the visitor -who on entering their pretty bamboo homes is required to remove his -shoes. - -Morality in Japan has been decried as being lax; the assertion in my -estimation is a libel, when attended with more weight than should be -given other countries. From my personal observation of countries, the -customs and manners of their people, the records of divorce courts, -mutual separations, desertions, and the “red-light” signals to the -underworld of the large cities, I would place the Japanese fourth, and -in so doing begin the line of comparison within the confines of the -Atlantic and Pacific coasts. - -In the villages of Mitsugahamo cleanliness was the dominating virtue; -carefully swept streets were offset by bamboo fences enclosing -productive gardens and rockeries with plants of flaunting blossoms. -Hardwood carving and lacquer work employed a large number of the men, -while the women, with their little tycoons strapped like a papoose, -were engaged in weaving silk on a loom or in fancy painting and -embroidering. - -The people of this island seemed to be the typical Japanese -aborigines, there being no indication of a mixture of blood, such as -is seen in such seaport cities as Nagasaki and Yokohama. - -Our next visit of importance was to the sacred island of Miyajima, -where legend tells us a sacred fire has been burning for three -thousand years. For ages past there has been neither a birth nor a -death chronicled on this strange island of the “Rising Sun.” -Indisposition of health is immediately attended by deportation, while -the quarantine officials cautiously examine every subject for any -disorder that might tend to suddenly snuff out the light of existence, -and, like the parable of the ten virgins, those whose lights are dimly -burning cannot enter in. (See 25th chapter of Matthew, records of -orthodoxy.) After visiting various other ports of unpronounceable -names, our ship steamed to the city of Kobe, described in a previous -narrative. Lying in the harbor were the British battleship _Endymion_, -two Italian cruisers, a German battleship, two Russian monitors, and -the Japanese battleship _Hatsuse_. The following day the baseball team -of the cruiser _New York_, having accepted a challenge, went ashore to -cross bats with the “Kobe Country Club,” the members of which were -more than eager to blot out the stigma of their previous defeat. The -day was an ideal baseball day in every respect; a cool breeze blew -through the park in the west end of the city, while thick gray clouds -shut off the burning rays of the sun. - -On reaching the “diamond,” the American contingent, consisting of the -baseball team chaperoned by Chaplain Chidwick, the band, and every -available man whose duties did not prevent him from getting ashore, -were given an ovation by a mixture of Japanese, Russian, Italian, and -English voices resembling somewhat the noise in “Cheyenne Joe’s” Rocky -Mountain Inn during the “Louisiana Purchase Exposition.” The -grandstand was thronged with officers and wives, representing the -Japanese army and the vessels of various nations, numerous tourists, -and butterfly geishas attired in pretty silk kimonos; it was also -noticeable that the American party was augmented by Captain and Mrs. -Putnam Bradley Strong, widely known in both hemispheres. - -With the rendition of popular selections by the band, the game opened -with clever playing on both sides, the _New York’s_ battery and -in-field having a shade the better of the game, though the out-field -of the “Country Club” did excellent service in stopping the sphere, -which was pounded hard by the Americans. The game was very pretty in -all its details, resulting in a victory for the “blue jackets”; score, -5 to 3. - -After the game had closed, it was amusing to hear the admirers of our -opponents expressing their opinions as to what might have been the -result if the short-stop had only swung to “first” instead of “home,” -how a double play could have been made, putting the side out and -preventing a score, et cetera. - -In the evening, with some friends whom I had met on a previous visit, -I journeyed to the “club,” where the conversation was all baseball; -after the fine points of the game had been discussed, it was -unanimously decided that, it being too late to perform a diagnosis, an -autopsy should be held, somebody even suggested an inquest; however, -let it suffice, that the obsequies terminated ceremoniously, with the -pathetic recital of “Casey at the bat” by W. P. Bradley, an American. -In the British army during its hard-fighting days, when the loss of so -many soldiers had a depressing effect on those who attended their -departed heroes to the grave, it was deemed expedient to have the band -play inspiring airs, immediately following the last notes of “taps,” -which invariably had a cheering effect on the soldiers; this was -accompanied by a social gathering at the “canteen,” where deep -draughts, in communion and good fellowship, were quaffed from the -“flowing bowl.” - -The sad loss the “Kobe Country Club” had suffered on the “diamond” -this day had enjoined the members to seek recourse to the above -custom, and verily I disclose unto those in attendance that night in -Japan, if, with the awakening of the dawn, your feverish brows -throbbed for cracked ice as mine did, my sympathy for you is -unbounded. - -During the celebration this night at the club, each guest performed -some little sketch of his own; an officer of the British battleship -_Endymion_, being pressed “real hard” for a song, was finally -prevailed upon for a selection. Taking a position at the piano, he -skilfully ran over the keys, then, turning, addressed the club as -follows: “Gentlemen, am noute at ’ome in the voucal loine, but, if you -must ’ave a song, a’l endeavor to sing a selection sent to me by an -aeold friend in the United States, entitled, ‘I’d leave my ’appy ’ome -for you, double o, double o.’” We Americans who had heard the song in -the “States” knew the title to be, “I’d leave my happy home for you, -oo, oo.” Turning to the piano, our friend commenced: - - “I’d leave my ’appy ’ome for you, double o, double o; - For you’re the sweetest girl I ever knew, double o, double o,” - -et cetera. Well, the chuckling expressions of mirth that this -ridiculous song brought forth created a laughable scene. Once begun, -the fellow was unwilling to stop; he evidently had hysteria, and -thought the laughing applause, for he pounded away on the keys, and -rang in double o, whether it fitted or not, until, finally, a brother -officer went to him and whispered something in his ear, whereupon he -ceased, and joined in the laugh with all the attributes of a good -sport. - -Many of the crew had planned a visit to the quaint inland city Osaka; -but the destiny of the soldier and sailor is one of absolute -uncertainty. This time the unexpected appeared in the shape of an -order, directing that the cruiser proceed at once under forced draft -to Manila, a distance of 1400 miles. All kinds of rumors ran afloat, -the one predominating being that a German ship caught smuggling arms -to the insurgents had been fired on by the gun-boat _Nashville_; this, -however, seemed absurd, though not improbable. It was evident, at any -rate, that something of a serious nature needed repairing, as -consultations in the admiral’s cabin by the flag-officers and captain -were at fever heat. The following day at dawn, coaling ship was -commenced by a motley throng of natives, who kept a continuous stream -of coal pouring into the bunkers, which by night-fall contained two -hundred and fifty tons. At two bells (9 o’clock) the ship had been -thoroughly cleansed, and at four bells (10 o’clock) anchors were -weighed, and the “bull-dog of war” ploughed madly through the waters -of the phosphorous deep. Fair weather prevailed throughout the voyage, -alleviating to some extent the labor of the coal-passers below, who by -their strenuous efforts kept the cruiser under forced draft, driving -her through the “briny” swells and into Manila Bay in less than four -days. Casting anchor in the harbor of Cavite, booms were spread, -launches lowered, and we immediately learned of our mission, of the -terrible massacre of Company “G” of the Ninth Infantry, General -Chaffee’s old command, at the hands of the barbarous bolo-men of -Samar, the company having been taken by surprise while at breakfast. - -Most every person is familiar with the horror of this massacre on the -Island of Samar in October, 1901; of how the savages stealthily crept -upon the sentries, dispatching them with a thrust of the bolo, as one -might blow out a flame, so adroit and silent was the operation; how, -at a signal given, one detachment secured the arms in the barracks, as -another made the fatal charge at the mess-hall, where one of the -bloodiest struggles ensued that has been recorded since the battle of -the “Alamo,” one or two soldiers of a whole company miraculously -escaping to tell the tale. - -Great activity was at once begun on board the vessel, when it was -learned that the army and navy were to co-operate in suppressing -hostilities among the ferocious tribes of this jungle island, whose -leader, the squinty-almond-eyed insurgent General Lukban, had -defiantly sneered at foreign authority. Provisions and ammunition were -stored in the hold, numerous three-inch rifles, Colt automatics, and -one-pounders secured on deck, while four Kentucky mules to be used in -dragging the guns occupied stalls amidships. After the munitions of -war had been carefully stored and the minor details of the expedition -completed, Major (now Colonel) L. W. T. Waller, with his battalion of -three hundred marines, boarded the cruiser. This gallant battalion had -recently returned from China, where their valiant bravery before the -gates of Pekin had been attested by the troops of all nations. - -What a scene this was on board a man-of-war!――seven hundred sailors in -the fashion of the sea, and three hundred marines in the garb of the -field, all ready, as mad Anthony Wayne said, to storm hell if -necessary. - -One of the most magnificent military scenes and inspired feeling I -have ever experienced was on that balmy October morning in the year -1901, as I reported to Admiral Rodgers, six bells and underway. The -band had struck up, “Tramp, tramp, tramp, the boys are marching,” as -the entire sortie joined in the singing: - - “Damn, damn, damn the Filipinos, - Pock-marked, almond-eyed ladrones, - And beneath the starry flag - We’ll civilize them with the ‘Krag,’ - Then we’ll journey to our old beloved homes.” - -This was a gala day for all on board; burnished bayonets glittered in -the noonday’s sun, while the khaki uniforms of the soldiers of the sea -contrasted with the immaculate white of the sailors. - -The officers of the battalion to a man were soldiers, like those of -the St. Louis battalion, thorough in the art of war; men who had -proved themselves in active service; unlike a few under whom I served, -who broke into the army in ’98 and earlier, whose non-commissioned -officers were required to draw their topographical outlines, and who, -were it necessary to depend on their merits in civil life, would -suffer incompetency in a country grocery. - -The voyage down the coast was one grand round of pleasure; apparently -it was “an excursion” for the men who had fought their way through -Tien Tsin on to Pekin, and with Riley’s battery, the Ninth and the -Fourteenth Infantry, had battered, rammed, fired, and scaled the walls -of the Forbidden City. On the gun-deck of the man-of-war talented -musicians of the battalion kept an incessant flow of music in action, -a piano accompanying the popular songs of the sea and field, as -rendered in their true originality by some whose bones were doomed to -bleach on the gruesome battle-fields of Samar. - -Lieutenant “Jack” Gridley, ever popular with the officers and men, in -whose company the writer had served, cheerfully announced the -proceedings of the programme. It was far from our thoughts that night -that this brave son of the captain of the historic _Olympia_, after -braving the dangers of war, must suffer the wiles of the grim reaper -in peace, in the terrible explosion aboard the battleship _Missouri_. - -About midnight of the second day, while cruising along the coast of -Samar, under the cover of darkness, signal-lights could be seen dimly -burning at points of vantage. With the aid of night binoculars a camp -of insurgents was discovered bivouacked along the side of the -mountains, several miles up the coast from Catabalogan. A powerful -search-light thrown on this scene made the enemy clearly visible, and -great activity could be seen among the insurgents, as if startled by -impending danger. With great accuracy of aim an eight-inch shell was -dropped in the camp; this was followed by a bombardment of the coast, -in which the broadside batteries flashed their deadly munitions of -war, creating terrible havoc and demoralizing the enemy. Dropping -anchor in the harbor of Catabalogan, the cruiser was met by the -_Zafiro_, which conveyed the battalion to Balangiga, the scene of the -slaughter of the Ninth. - -The following day the sad news of the death of Midshipman Noya reached -the _New York_, being the first naval officer killed in the Samar -campaign. Cadet Noya was of the class of 1900, Annapolis Academy; his -death was attributed largely to the fact of his having worn a white -uniform on shore. At about five o’clock in the evening of October 27, -1901, accompanied by half a dozen sailors, he went ashore at -Nippa-Nippa near the bay to look for suspected smugglers. Sending four -of the men into the town, he remained on the beach while the two men -in the boat retired about two hundred yards from shore. His white -uniform evidently attracted attention, and unseen by him a dozen -bolo-men crept upon the officer; there was a noiseless rush, he was -felled with a bolo wound and his pistol taken, with which they shot -him. The men in the boat, hearing his cry, leaped overboard and half -waded, half swam to his rescue; they reached him while he was still -conscious. “Men, be very careful; they have taken my revolver,” he -murmured, and died. The remains were placed in the boat (the others -having returned) and taken to Catabalogan. A sailor had wig-wagged -across the bay, and as the body arrived at the dock it was met by a -cortege consisting of General Smith, Admiral Rodgers, Chaplain -Chidwick, and others. - -Some time was spent in making primary arrangements for the final -resting-place, which consisted, in that hostile country at that time, -of turning over the sod and organizing a firing squad. A heavy rain -fell as the procession was formed at the dock in the following order: -Military band, detachment of soldiers, naval band, detachment of -sailors, body, pall-bearers, and mourners, consisting of members of -the army and navy. To the slow music of a dirge, the procession moved -out of town to the little National cemetery on the hill-side. Here the -mourners drew up about the grave while the solemn burial service was -read by Chaplain Chidwick, who took this occasion to make a few -remarks on the character of the deceased. As the chaplain concluded -his remarks, the firing squad of soldiers drew up, and three sharp -clear volleys rang out over the open grave, followed by the -ever-beautiful sound of “taps,” concluding the service. As the first -clods fell in the grave, the military band struck up a lively two-step -and led the procession back to town; at the same time the rain ceased, -the clouds rolled away, and glorious sunshine covered the land, -symbolic of the beauty of life beyond the grave. - -Samar is one of the large islands of the Philippines group, lying west -of the archipelago between Mindanao and Luzon. Catabalogan, on the -western slope, is the chief town and capital. Along the coast there is -considerable cultivation, but the balance of the island is -mountainous, rugged, and sharp, with high precipitous declivities, -rocky defiles, and deep gullies, surrounding and entangling which are -dense jungles almost impenetrable; such were the haunts of the savage -bolo-men, who, like the “Fuzzy Wuzzy” of Kipling, were sociable but -full of fight. - -An order issued by General Smith read as follows: “All soldiers on the -islands of Samar and Leyte must be armed at all times, arise an hour -before daybreak and stand under arms till breakfast; any officer whose -men shall be surprised through disobedience of these orders will be -punished as a court-martial may direct. Scouting parties must be kept -up incessantly, crops destroyed, villages burned, and smugglers -killed; the enemy must be made to feel, as General Sherman said, that -‘War is hell.’” - -A paragraph from the general’s congratulations on the success of the -expedition read: “Success by barefooted Americans began at Valley -Forge, and I am proud to know that the same indomitable spirit which -won in spite of obstacles, over one hundred years ago, has shown -itself in Samar.” - -A fleet of small gun-boats captured from the Spanish had been doing -yeoman service around Samar, in cutting off supplies to Lukban’s -forces from the other islands. They had destroyed hundreds of barotes -and burned numerous villages. In fact the Island of Samar was -completely blockaded, with the exception of the narrow strip of the -Gandarra Straits separating the island from Leyte. A spy in the habit -of a friar arrived on the vessel in the darkness of the night, with -the information that banco after banco loaded with rice was being -smuggled across the straits. Volunteers were called for, to ascend -this small channel in a steam-launch. Having volunteered for this -special duty, we set to work at once, our complement consisting of -four midshipmen, four marines, and four sailors. Stripping the canopy -off the steam-launch, two one-pounders were mounted fore and aft, -while a Colt automatic resting on a tripod occupied the centre of the -boat. Each man carried, besides his rifle and revolver, a belt -containing three hundred rounds of ammunition and an extra bandoleer. - -About midnight, with fires secured, we shoved off under cover of -darkness for the entrance to the channel. On reaching it we could see, -in the distance along its shores, a fire dimly burning; steaming -quietly through the stream, closely hugging the shore, about two miles -had been covered from the ship, when a cumbersome object was seen -drifting across the straits. “Ah! a banco,” was whispered, as if -uttered by the voice of a buccaneer. The midshipman in command -immediately trained the forward one-pounder as near the water line of -the “smuggler” as could be discerned through the gloom. As the -coxswain swung the launch to a port side position in a shallow eddy, -the aft one-pounder and Colt automatic were trained for operation. - -Each man crouched close to the gunwale as the order to halt was given -by the “middy” at the forward gun. This command was replied to by a -shot, momentarily followed by a whizzing fusillade of steel-jackets in -dangerous proximity, several penetrating the smoke-funnel. As the low -bang of the one-pounders rang through the midnight, the sweeping -rattle of the Colt automatic played its deadly missiles like -rain-drops on a tin roof. Unearthly yells arose from the surface of -the straits, as the banco was seen to sink. At this juncture a volley -rang out from the opposite shore; turning the Colt in the direction -where the flash of the guns could be seen, the beach was swept and -jungle riddled, silencing the guns of the enemy. While rescuing a -native who in the agony of fear and bewilderment was drowning near the -launch, several shots were fired from the jungle on our side of the -stream. It being impossible to train the Colt from the position we -held, we waded to the beach, where, creeping to an opening in the -jungle, we pumped volley after volley with our “Krags” into the -surrounding wilderness. As the moon broke through the clouds, the -silhouette of a group of natives could be seen prowling on the -opposite shore some distance up the straits. Having accomplished our -mission, we returned to the ship with a live specimen of the spoils, -who for safe keeping was confined to a cell in the “brig.” Next -morning the savage was loath to talk until, after a breakfast of cold -salmon, he told us that the banco contained eight natives, of whom he -was the sole survivor, that their cargo consisted of rice consigned to -Lukban’s forces in Samar. A detail escorted the prisoner ashore, where -he was turned over to the army. The following day the small gun-boat -_Garduqui_, of the “mosquito fleet,” was ordered into the channel, -sounding her way clear through the straits. The natives were hemmed in -on all sides and reports of smuggling ceased. - -Near Balayán, as a member of a landing party that stormed and burned a -number of villages, I secured a unique relic, in the shape of a -Spanish trumpet that had served some hidalgo in the days of the -empire. - -Every day brought news to the cruiser of the excellent work of the -soldiers and marines. In carrying out the orders of Generals Smith and -Hughes, the boys were sweeping everything before them, driving the -murderous natives to either death or surrender. Victor, who had led -the assault in the slaughter of the Ninth Infantry, had fallen victims -to the marines, and the splendid culmination to a successful campaign -was the surrender of twelve hundred bolo-men with their various -implements of warfare. - -After swearing allegiance to the United States, these savage jungle -warriors were allowed their freedom. - -The island having been pacified, a number of the troops were recalled, -though the blockade was continued by the _Vicksburg_, _Nashville_, and -the small gun-boats of the mosquito fleet. - -The flag-ship _New York_, having completed her mission in the Samar -campaign, steamed back to Luzon, where a fortnight was spent in Manila -Bay ere she steamed out, under an azure sky, to the shores of fair -Japan. - - Back to the land of the “Rising Sun” - Where the blood-red poppies grow, - To the minarets of the Inland Sea - And the “geishas” of Tokio. - - - NOTE. - - This being merely a narrative of that part of the Samar - campaign that fell under my personal observation, without - any pretence to an elaboration or an historical account, I - desire to say that it would be doing a great injustice to - the gallant battalion of marines, conveyed by the flag-ship - _New York_ to the scenes of the depredations of the - treacherous natives, were I not to inform the reader that, - in order to portray in detail the hardships endured by the - men of Major Waller’s command, it would be necessary to have - a more comprehensive knowledge of the data, and a very keen - ability, in order to expedite the union of the composite - stages of this diversified expedition: of the harassing and - almost incredible obstacles countered; the personal courage, - determination, and zeal, each step treading its own dangers; - the attack upon the overwhelming force of insurgents in the - cliffs along the Sojoton River, where it was necessary to - elevate the three-inch field-pieces till they were almost - vertical, the cliffs being nearly two hundred feet high, and - well-nigh impregnable; the attempts at scaling these cliffs - by means of bamboo ladders; the various engagements in which - innumerable insurgents and many Americans were killed; the - travel of hundreds of miles through jungle wilderness, by - the half-starved, bare-footed marines; the burning of one - hundred and sixty-five shacks _en route_ to Liruan, where - death lurked in concealed spear-pits; the terrible execution - of the Colt automatics; the revolt of the native help, their - execution, and the sensational court-martial that followed, - attended by the honorable exoneration of the defendants, et - cetera; of the admirable work of the army, and fourth - company of Macabebe scouts, and numerous side-lights on this - novel campaign of warfare, that would tax the fertile brain - of the experienced author in their portrayal. - - - - - VIII. - - The Cowboy Soldier, a Coincidence - - Departure for New Orleans――Arrival at the Capital――The - Soldiers――Peach Tree Street, Atlanta――Christening of the - “Peace-togs”――New Orleans――The Levee――Creoles――The Race-track――A - Quadroon-ball――The Farandole and La Bourree――Madame La Bouchere, - Goddess of Sorcery――The Mardi Gras――The Plaza de Goiti, - Manila――The Coincidence. - - -One crisp wintry afternoon late in the month of January, 1899, having -bade adieu to a party of boon companions at a little railway station -in the Blue Ridge mountains of Pennsylvania, I ensconced myself on the -cushions of the smoking-compartment of the Black Diamond Express, lit -a cigar, and ran through the pages of a popular magazine, possessed -with a feeling of satisfaction that my destination, New Orleans, lay -under the warmth of Southern skies, free from the bleak winds of the -North, and with that suavity manifest in a person whose most arduous -responsibilities are those of pleasure seeking and curious notions. - -Though having touched both Florida and Texas, I had never been as far -south as the crescent city at the mouth of the Mississippi, so that on -this trip it was my object to appease an insatiable desire by -thoroughly acquainting myself with the natural and historical charms -of this quaint old Southern city, and particularly witness the -festivities of the Mardi Gras. - -In picturing New Orleans in phantasm, I had always had a conception of -a beautiful city of Spanish architecture, dotted with churches and -cathedrals whose chimes pealed sweetly overhead, and along whose -flagstone streets the beautiful Creole belles vied in angelic accord -with their more dusky sisters, the quadroons; darkies rolling cotton -bales on the levee, their negro melodies interspersed with the deep -sonorous steam-boat whistles on the wide-spreading river; haunts of -the vendetta and the mafia; southern homes shaded by palmetto, whose -confines exhaled in fragrant quintessence the aroma of magnolia; dusky -“Dinahs” in red bandannas picking cotton, as the old negroes thrummed -the banjoes near the cabin where the pickaninnies played around the -door. These were my early impressions of the gulf-cities of -“Dixie-land,” and how many are there who have seen the dramatization -of Harriet Beecher Stowe’s “Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” or read George W. -Cable’s stories of the Creoles of Louisiana, who have not pictured -just such scenes as these? - -On my arrival at Washington, D. C., the sun shone bright in southern -warmth, in combative contrast to the bleak sweeping winds of the -north, and, having ample time in which to reach New Orleans before the -beginning of the Mardi Gras season (St. Valentine’s Day), I decided to -see some of the points of interest overlooked on previous visits to -the capital. One in particular was the trip to the tomb of General -Washington, at Mount Vernon, a short but very beautiful ride by -steam-boat on the Potomac River. - -During this period two weighty questions were being handled by the -silver-tongued orators of the Senate,――namely, the ratification of the -peace treaty and the retention of the Philippine Islands. For three -days I attended this session of Congress to hear the elucidating -arguments on these subjects, as propounded by Senators Foraker, Hoar, -Tillman and Vest, who seemed to handle in arbitrary opposition the -burden of the questions. These debates were exceedingly interesting, -the eloquent orators at times becoming so animated as to cast -parliamentary rules asunder, and occasionally requiring the necessity -of being rapped to order by the Speaker of the House. - -After spending several pleasant days in Washington, I journeyed to the -Pennsylvania Railroad station to catch my train on the “Sea-board Air -Line” for the city of Atlanta. While having my ticket validated for -berth reservation, a very military-looking soldier appeared at the -window of the ticket-office and made inquiries regarding a train for -Atlanta, Georgia. Having been recently mustered out of the service, I -sought to learn the fellow’s regiment; addressing him interrogatively, -I was informed that he had enlisted in Philadelphia, and was _en -route_ to Fort McPherson, Georgia, to join the Third United States -Cavalry. Although the fellow appeared very military, he said this was -his first enlistment, but that he had just stepped out of the stirrups -of a saddle in the Indian Territory, where his experience as a cowboy -he related in a most interesting manner. Boarding the train together, -we were ere long engaged in a hand of “seven up,” as the wheels -clipped off the miles at the rate of forty-eight per hour. - -At Columbia, South Carolina, the train was boarded by a large number -of soldiers of the Second Tennessee Volunteer Infantry, who had -recently been mustered out with their regiment, and were _en route_ to -their respective destinations. Two sergeants――namely, Clark and -Gautrell, two very agreeable fellows――joined us in a sociable game of -cards. Although they had served in a Tennessee regiment, their homes -were in Georgia. The conversation from this point on was all war talk -and “broncho-busting.” The cavalryman’s interesting anecdotes of -branding and roping cattle, the tedium of the “round-up,” the -vigilance necessary in protecting calves from the howling coyote, the -breaking of horses, and his simple life as a cow-puncher in Oklahoma -and the Indian Territory, were as fascinating as “Pony-tracks” by -Frederick Remington. Before reaching Atlanta he gave me his name, -Harry K. Loomis, and said he hoped to be assigned to Troop “M” of the -Third. I handed him a card with my permanent address, at the same time -wishing him a successful career as a soldier, and hoping the fates -would ordain the continuation of a friendship that had so suddenly and -unexpectedly sprung up between us like a preordained affinity. - -Before we had alighted from the train, Gautrell and Clark had decided -to see the Mardi Gras at New Orleans, and it pleased me greatly to -have the company of two such jolly chaps, whose liberation from the -arduous duties of a soldier animated them with a spirit that brooked -no restraint. - -On our arrival in the city, we journeyed to a hotel, where, after -washing the cinders from our eyelashes and submitting to a tonsorial -operation, we sat down to a good substantial Southern breakfast. -Following this Loomis bade the party good-by and left to catch his car -for his post of duty. As he left the grotto-like café of the -Poindexter Hotel, Sergeant Gautrell remarked, “There is about as -soldierly a fellow as I ever met.” “Yes,” replied Clark, “and only a -recruit at that.” - -The soldiers had some shopping in the line of purchasing an outfit of -“peace-togs,” as the war was over and they desired to get on a footing -with the common herd, as they termed the civil throng; so, promising -to meet the boys that afternoon, I hopped on a Peach Tree street-car -and rode out to the old ground of the “Cotton Exposition,” where I -spent a few hours, including my return, which was footed most of the -way for the purpose of gazing on those beautiful old Southern homes, -with their unfenced lawns extending to the sidewalks, likened unto the -suburban route leading to Willow Grove, Philadelphia, though far in -advance in nature’s loveliness. Old colonial mansions of stained wood -and light-gray stucco――sacred to the tread of the marshals of a lost -cause and the chivalrous knights of antebellum days, whose fortunes -suffered terrible wreck and ruin as the Yankees went marching through -Georgia――dot the large and splendid thoroughfare for miles on either -side of the long rows of sombre maples; broad piazzas, once handsome, -now grown picturesque, draped by the clinging myrtles and jessamines -that shed their bright petals in the sunlight; orange-blossoms in -drooping sympathy with the indifferent but ever-beautiful magnolia in -brilliant contrast, dispelling all doubt as to the ancestral -aristocracy of these manorial mansions. - -It is not at all difficult to reconstruct in one’s memory the past -joyful scenes of these quaint and lovely homes, under whose eaves -avowals bound by the ties of love have been softly whispered; refusals -sometimes spoken, fidelity having previously been pledged; where no -heed was paid to false news clandestinely carried from schools for -scandal; where coquetry was at a minimum; where lies no doubt were -sometimes nourished by the organs of deceit, and where passion yielded -to the tempter only in platonic affection under the twig of the -mistletoe. Such were the chivalrous thoroughbred characteristics of -these people to the manner born. - -If the reader who has never journeyed along the quaint old Peach Tree -street of Atlanta, Georgia, can imaginatively depict the moonlight -scene of Julia Marlowe in “Barbara Frietchie,” he will have a monomial -fac-simile of these old-time Southern homes. - -Returning to the bright stimulating thoroughfare fronting the -Poindexter Hotel, I alighted from my car and entered the café, where I -learned that the soldiers had not yet returned. After visiting various -places of interest, including the Confederate museum, I returned to -the hotel and wrote letters until about 4 o’clock, when the boys -launched on the scene in brand-new spick and span attire, everything -completely modern. They had made inquiries about the train for New -Orleans, which was scheduled to leave Atlanta at 12.02 midnight, over -the “Sunset” route, giving us ample time to attend the theatre. Clark -proposed a christening of the “togs”; this suggestion was emphasized -and perfunctorily executed with libations of mint-julep. After making -reservations for the “sleepers,” we purchased tickets for the -“Primrose and West” minstrels. Gautrell said he felt like a new clock -after shedding his “war-clothes,” and proposed an augmentation to the -christening; entering a “grill,” the order was soon taken and filled -to the connoisseurship of the “Kentucky colonel.” - -After a few rounds of this delicious Southern beverage, we repaired to -the Poindexter, checked our baggage through to New Orleans, and dined -sumptuously on teal and water-cress. As the coffee and cigarettes were -being served, a trombone “rag” burst forth from the minstrel band near -the entrance to the theatre; as the last notes of this died away, we -hastened to the parquet, arriving in time for the grand opening scene. -Having enjoyed the show, our grips were collected at the hotel, and a -short walk to the station found us in ample time for the train. As the -Pullman vestibule sleepers rolled in, we were not long in getting -aboard and having the porter arrange the berths for a night of restful -sleep. - -The trip by rail through the Gulf States was enlivened on either side -by scenery of commanding excellence. Cards were played, and the dusky -porter was playfully bullied to the delight of the news-butcher who -seemed to dote on the porter’s repartee. The most important cities our -trip included were Birmingham, Montgomery, and Mobile. After crossing -Lake Pontchartrain, I observed, from the dining-car window, the -crescent-shaped site of our destination. On the arrival at the station -near the levee, my eyes immediately feasted on what had previously -been a dream: Negroes humming a medley as they rolled the huge cotton -bales along the levee and aboard the Mississippi steam-boats; a -happy-go-lucky bunch of darkies whose hard work commands a -compensation of two bits per hour. Gautrell and Clark, being from -Georgia, smiled at the interest I took in this scene. Strolling along -Canal Street, we switched to the left at the Clay monument and entered -St. Charles Street, where after a walk of two blocks we entered the -magnificent St. Charles Hotel. “Everything taken, gentlemen,” was the -clerk’s pert response to our request for accommodations. “The Mardi -Gras season,” he said, “in the city of _Nawrleans_ is one lawg week -fo’ the hotels, and without makine reservations in advance, the -chances fo’ accommodations is a foa cod draw.” He, however, directed -us to a splendid place, in fact preferable to the hotel, a small row -of flats on Carondelet Street, with modern conveniences and near the -heart of the city. Here we engaged rooms, free from the busy whirl and -the bang, jam, smash, of the trunk-line populace. - -The city was being profusely arrayed in its holiday attire for the -famous Creole fiesta, the Mardi Gras, which was but three days off. -Large arches were nearing completion, windows were being decorated -with the prettiest designs, while every building, from its gable to -the wainscoting or foundation, presented a striking spectacle with its -flabelliform folds of orange and black drapery. - -A splendid trolley system affords an elegant view of the entire city, -every car leaves and returns to the Clay monument on Canal Street; -from these can be seen the beautiful government buildings, colleges, -churches, cathedral, race-course, and the historic city park, on whose -sombre site, in the days before the rebellion, the affairs of honor -were settled with the keen blade of the rapier or flash of the pistol, -the staid old oaks remaining as monuments, but unable to bear -testimony to the duels they sheltered in past generations. Lake -Pontchartrain, a broad expanse of water connecting with the Gulf of -Mexico, is the daily scene in season of fishermen making a haul of the -finny denizens of all species. - -Riding out Ursuline Avenue you see, flying over the paddock and -immense grandstand of the world-renowned race-track, the colors of the -Crescent City Jockey Club gently floating in the breeze; the grassy -carpet of the inclosure, encircled by the red-shale turf, around which -the lithe-limbed thoroughbreds dash for the wire in incommunicable -antagony, exerting every fibre as if conscious of the triumph of a -victory. Here may be seen during the winter meet the most noted -race-horses, trainers, jockeys, judges, bookmakers, plungers, touts, -and race-course patronage of the modern turf, some backing the -favorites, while others (experienced handicappers) play the long -shots. After the races, “Farbachers” café on Royal Street, a famous -resort for the turf element, was daily the evening scene of -extravagant gayety, particularly by those patrons whose plunging had -been favored by fortune. - -It had occurred to Gautrell, himself of French extraction, that he had -often heard of New Orleans “gumbo” as being a dish _par excellence_; -having sauntered into this famous hostelry, “okra gumbo” for three was -ordered. Unlike “chilli-concarni,” the staff of life of the Mexicans, -“okra gumbo,” though prepared from okra, meats, and vegetables, is -devoid of cayenne pepper flavor. Clark, who had evidently never -sampled “tobasco sauce,” remarked that catsup came in very small -bottles in New Orleans, at the same time drawing the stopper and -pouring the fiery liquid over his “gumbo” like so much -“Worcestershire.” As the tears filled Clark’s eyes, he said, “Fellows, -if this is what you call _par excellence_, go to it, but none of it -for mine,” then, with a mouthful of ice, signalled the waiter. -“Waiter,” he said, “kindly remove this bonfire and bring me a -pineapple-frappée quick.” “Gumbo” was relished by the balance of the -party, but Clark could never be induced to give it another trial. - -The pool-rooms of the races along Royal Street are attractive halls of -amusement; bookmakers screened from the patrons as the clerks of a -bank; blackboards, on which appear the names of the horses, jockeys, -weight carried, odds, and pedigrees, decorate the walls, everything -being conducted with the same business decorum and excitement -attending the stock operations of the New York “curb.” The telegraph -ticks off the condition of the weather, the arrival of the horses at -the post, the start, their position at the quarter, the half, the -three-quarters, in the stretch, and under the wire, as a well-trained -voice in the language of the turf calls off the results. Here one may -play the races of any “meet” in the United States, lacking only in the -excitement of seeing the horses dashing for the winning wire. - -In the old “French quarter” a few blocks from Royal Street, along -whose time-worn thoroughfare the past generations of “Nawrleans’” most -exclusive Creole society basked in the sunshine of their graceful -gentility, we saw some quaint sights amidst the chattering jargon of -its people, principally among these being a quadroon ball, at which -Creoles predominated, though almost indistinguishable from their -quadroon sisters, whose beauty is their stock in trade, and whose -mellow-toned voices drop the “r” in that quaint characteristic style -of the Southern people. The luxuriousness of their costumes, pomp of -procession, harmony of music, and grace of attitudes, all united in -furnishing a scene of festive splendor. - -In close proximity to Jackson Square, near the haunts of the -“Vendetta” beautifully illustrated in the play of “Romeo and Juliet,” -we visited a Creole resort, the interior of which resembled somewhat -the subterrane of “Little Hungary,” the famous Bohemian hostelry of -Houston Street, on New York’s east side. Here, seated on a wine-cask, -a fiddler bowed a “viola,” as the Creoles, in their primitive -originality, and with all the inimitable grace of Loie Fuller in the -“fire-dance,” performed the “Farandole” and the “La Bourree,” their -beautiful bare arms in ornamental bracelets, shading the contortions -of their movements, rising and falling in gesticulating harmony to the -rhythm of the music, as the nymphs of an unexplored grotto. Nearby we -were shown the old slave-market and block from which the auctioneer -bartered his human wares to the highest bidder, their lives invariably -to eventuate in the drudgery of the cotton fields. - -Voudooism, which included all the intricacies of the black-art in -prognosticating future events, flourished uninterrupted for years in -New Orleans, until finally eradicated by the hands of authority. This -superstitious form of worship was practised principally by the -negroes, who carried its inheritance with the first trading vessel -from the shores of Africa to the United States. We were told that the -negroes would indulge in the voudoo dances in uncontrollable frenzy, -until, overcome from exhaustion, they would sink to the ground. - -Stories are told of the handsome fortune-telling quadroon Madame La -Bouchere, who held her court near the Bayou Saint John, and in whose -sumptuous boudoir the patrons of her art, consisting not only of the -bourgeoisie, but the Creole aristocracy, paid visits incognito to -suffer the enchantments of the “goddess” of this shrine of sorcery. A -landau driven to the door of this cypress-sheltered dwelling, there -hastily alighted therefrom a veiled lady, who, carelessly brushing by -the magnolias, vanished from view. In this green-curtained domicile -the intrigues of forbidden love, deceptions, betrayals, and future -certainties, would all be revealed to the satisfaction of the votary -of this dark-eyed enchantress, without the evil eyes of the -gossip-mongers to feast upon and scatter broadcast. Madame La -Bouchere’s soft voice and alluring smiles have vanished with the -strokes of time; in the slumberous shade of the willow she rests in a -tomb of the old Metaire cemetery, her soul having passed to the realm -beyond this life. - -The cemeteries of New Orleans have a particular charm, the bodies -being buried above-ground. In handsome memorial to the Confederate -soldiers, there have been erected gigantic mausoleums, shafts, and -columns, monumentally inscribed to the memory of Louisiana’s departed -heroes. - -Mardi Gras week was ideal in every respect, all the personages of the -characters of comedy blended in their primitive originality; -“Columbine” flirted with “Harlequin,” while “Ajax” defied the -lightning; “Vulcan” shaped harpoons for “Neptune,” and “Falstaff” -drank to the health of “Bacchus.” Mountebanks, clowns, and buffoons -all joined in the revelry of mirth. The street pageant was a -magnificent spectacle; floats garlanded with flowers representing -every State in the Union, trades and professions, were led by Rex, the -king of the carnival, surmounting the “globe,” and the Queen, the most -beautiful Creole lady in New Orleans, riding in a chariot drawn by -sixteen cream-colored horses. The array of the Crescent City Jockey -Club evoked tremendous applause, all the famous jockeys of the track -on favorite mounts participating; “Louisiana Tigers,” and the “Texas -Rangers,” sailors from the United States cruiser _New Orleans_, and -bands of music from all over the State, joined in completing this -gigantic saturnalia, which had, for its gorgeous setting, the Creole -“bal-masque,” where New Orleans’ most exclusive society, costumed in -Parisian elegance, was seen at its best. - -The entire week was one round of jollification, at the close of which -my friends Gautrell and Clark left for their homes in Georgia. I -remained in New Orleans for four months, when, cases of “yellow-fever” -having been reported, I concluded to seek a more congenial clime. -Boarding the _Knickerbocker_, of the Cromwell Line, I made a most -delightful cruise through the gulf and along the coast to the city of -New York. - - * * * * * - -Three years having elapsed since my departure from the little railway -station in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Pennsylvania, for New Orleans, -the vicissitudes of destiny found me enjoying the balmy zephyrs and -moonlight evenings of the tropics. My career in the navy had taken me -into every port of importance on the Asiatic station, and my ship, the -_New York_, had recently slipped into the harbor of Manila, and lay -anchored off the break-water. Having gone ashore this particular -afternoon for the purpose of attending the races at Pasay, I had -engaged a “victoria” and with some friends attended the scenes at the -track, called at the “Hefting House” overlooking Manila Bay, had dined -in the old walled city, and driven to the “Lopez” road-house at -Caloocan. The sun had set back of the hills of Olongapo, ere I -discharged the cochero on the Plaza de Goiti and entered the Hotel -Metropole. “Hello, boys,” said old Maulini, the proprietor; “I am glad -to see you, you’re just in time to sample some fresh ice-cold -hoff-brau; it just arrived to-day on the _Kronprince_ from Germany.” -Drawing the rustic hardwood chairs around the square tables, we sat in -the delightful breeze of the electric fans as large fantastic steins -of cool hoff-brau were served. - -Through the short swinging screen doors of the café could be seen the -cosmopolitan procession wending its way on business and pleasure; army -and naval officers in “victorias,” Red-Cross nurses natilly attired in -pure white lawn, friars in black habit and broad-brimmed hats, -mestizos of Chinese, Spanish, and French extraction, East Indian, -Malay, and Japanese merchants, and American soldiers, all stalking -along the plaza. - -“Tell us a good Dutch story, Maulini,” asked one of the boys, as -another put in, “Ah, Maulini ain’t Dutch; he’s a French -carpet-bagger.” As Maulini was about to take up cudgels in his own -defence, there entered the café a bunch of cavalrymen, among whom I -instantly recognized my old friend Loomis the cowboy. “Great heavens!” -I said, “is this Loomis?” “Well, for the love of the powers that be, -Adams, is it possible this is you?” “Yep,” I replied, “this is the -fellow you taught how to throw a lariat.” “Where have you been the -last three years?” he asked; “the last I heard of you was through -Clark and Gautrell; they called to see me at Fort McPherson, and said -they had left you in good company in New Orleans; never hearing from -you, I had concluded you had cashed in. Come on, fellows, I want you -to meet a friend.” Drawing their chairs around our table, it was an -“O-be-joyful” gathering that swapped stories as the steins of -hoff-brau were replenished. Loomis told the story of our meeting in -Washington and the subsequent journey to Atlanta; of how the Third -Cavalry had been ordered to the front in the Boxer campaign, where -they had seen hard service, at the close of which they were ordered to -the province of Ilocas Norte, in northern Luzon, where the duty was -also very strenuous. Handing me his discharge, I read: - - “ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES. - - “_To All Whom It May Concern_: - - “Know ye that Harry K. Loomis, First Sergeant of Troop ‘M,’ - Third United States Cavalry, who was enlisted at - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, on the 1st day of February, - 1899, to serve three years, is hereby honorably discharged - from the Army of the United States by reason of expiration - of enlistment. Said Harry K. Loomis was born in the city of - St. Louis, Mo., and when enlisted was 22¾ years of age, by - occupation a cowboy, had blue eyes, dark brown hair, ruddy - complexion, 5 feet 11 inches in height. - - “Given under my hand at Division Headquarters, Army of the - Philippines, Manila, P. I., this 31st day of January, 1902. - - “Colonel DODD, - “Commanding Third Cavalry. - - “Character EXCELLENT. - “No objection to his re-enlistment known to exist.” - -On the back of this discharge, in red ink, several lines told of the -meritorious conduct of this soldier, his unflinching bravery in the -face of the enemy in action, his promotion for bravery during the -Chinese campaign, and a recommendation for a “certificate of merit.” -Some time was spent in the exchange of experiences, and it goes -without saying that this event was appropriately celebrated, ending a -very unique coincidence. - -Loomis, on the arrival of his transport, returned to the United -States, and at present, besides being a successful ranchman in -Oklahoma, is an intrepid and fearless deputy United States marshal. - - - - - IX. - - Life Among Hostile Moros in the Jungle of Mindanao - - A Trip to the Sulu Archipelago――New Year’s Eve on Board the - _Zafiro_――A Royal Bit of a Time in the Cabin of McDonald――Blowing - the Siren――New Year’s Dinner at 1.00 A.M.――Isabella de - Basilan――Prang Prang――Dancing Girls of the Nippa Villages――Roasted - Grasshoppers――Outpost Duty――Nearly Converted to the Darwinian - Theory――Experience with a Boa Constrictor while Hunting - Wild-Boar――Rescued from Hostile Moros――Relief of the Outpost. - - - Two men were caught in a Moro trap, and the Datto’s guns sang near, - And one wore an officer’s shoulder-strap, the other a private’s gear; - One was a black of the Twenty-fourth, and one was a Southern man, - And both were caught in a dark defile by the line of the Moro clan. - - Oh, wonder it is, and pity it is, that they send the scouts alone - To die in the silent jungle paths with never a word or groan; - Wonder it is, and pity it is, but the two stood back to back, - And never a word between them passed as they waited the first attack. - - What prayers they said they said them low, and to their beating hearts - That thumped so loud and out of tune; and now the battle starts. - A ring of flame about them ran; a tongue of fire shot through; - Then as machines their muscles moved and aimed their rifles true. - - The bullets whined, the wounded shrieked, the rifle bores grew hot; - But still the two stood back to back, and answered shot for shot. - And now the Moro fire dies down, and now there comes a hush; - And white and black, with bayonets fixed, await the bolo rush. - - They heard the Moro chief call out, “Oh, black man, hark to me! - You give to us the Christian dog and you shall go out free. - Heed you the call of color and blood――what need we longer fight? - In color and blood you’re brother to me. Oh, black man, give the - white.” - - Now, one was a white of the Southern breed, and cheap he held the - black, - And little he’d thought, as the two had fought, of the man behind - his back; - He loved to live as the white man lives, but the Datto’s words rang - true; - And he had no doubt, as the chief called out, what the black behind - would do. - - Two men they stood them back to back, and never a word they said; - But, face to face with an easy death, what thoughts were in each - head! - “You go,” the white man spoke at last; “for you owe naught to me; - You go; for I can die alone, that you may go out free; - - “You go; it seems your time has come to draw the color line; - You and your breed owe naught to me, nor certainly to mine. - I’ll go to death as my fathers went”――between his cold set lips―― - “My fathers who used to use your kind for trade――and poker-chips.” - - One was a black of the Twenty-fourth, and his face was washed with - fear, - And his breath came quick, and his bowels were sick, as he thought - of the knife-blades near. - Then steady his hand swung to his belt, and back to the bolt again, - And he loaded and fired, as a well-drilled man, and counted his dead - to ten. - - And, “Man,” he said, “in ole Kaintuck a mammy she prays foh me; - An’ Ah laks to lib lak yo’ laks to lib, but ouah end it am plain to - see. - Ouah colah an’ blood it ain’t de same, but we sets to de same old - boahd, - An’ if we diffah in skin an’ blood, w’y, we pass dat up to de Lawd. - - “Ouah colah an’ blood it ain’t de same, but de flag dat covahs us bofe―― - It nevah has changed on de colah line, an’ dey didn’t colah ouah oafe; - Yo’ go yo’ route to de gates o’ Gawd an’ I shell trabel mine―― - An’ we shell see, when we reach His knee, how He’s drawin’ de colah - line. - - “Doan’ fink Ah’m fightin’ foh de lub o’ yo’ or de breed that yo’ laks - to brag―― - Ah’m fightin’ foh mammy in ole Kaintuck, an’ lub o’ mah kentry’s - flag; - Yo’ watch dem niggahs along yo’ front, an’ Ah’ll attend to mine, - An’ we’ll go up to de Gates o’ Gawd to settle de colah line.” - - Two men they stood them back to back, and the white man called to - the chief: - “He’s answered the call of the color line, and his answer will bring - you grief. - We don’t declare as brothers-in-blood, or the burden of friendship - drag, - But we do unite on a color line, and our color’s our country’s flag.” - - Two men lay dead in the jungle path, and their faces stared at the - sky; - And out in the bush on each man’s front the Moros were piled waist - high. - And when the warriors they went in to mutilate the dead. - They found them lying back to back, but white and black were red! - - “How strange it is,” the chief he cried, “these men should together - go; - They did not love each other’s kind――in blood they differed so. - For one was black and one was white, and yet they chose to die - Because they served a single flag; in honor they shall lie. - - “What gods they worshipped I know not――what gods I do not care―― - They fought me well, and for their flag, and they shall have a - prayer. - For be he white, or be he black, his flag be what it may―― - All honor to him who dies for that――my men, kneel down and pray.” - - Two mounds they stand in a jungle path; they buried them back to - back; - And the wondering Moros tell the tale of the white man and the - black. - Oh, the warlike Moros pass that way to kneel in silent prayer, - And ask their gods for the spirit of the men they buried there! - - -The Island of Mindanao, which lies about six hundred miles south of -Manila, bordering on the Sulu Archipelago, was highly esteemed by -marines in 1903 as an ideal place to soldier, notwithstanding the fact -that the natives were extremely hostile, and it was of common -occurrence to hear of a sentry being treacherously boloed or speared -while walking his post in the jungle. - -Having yearned for active service for several weeks while stationed at -Fort San Philippi, Cavite, the spell of anxiety was broken one day -when orders were received detailing three marines to proceed by the -first available transportation to Prang Prang, Mindanao, to replace -those who had suffered the fate of many other soldiers and marines at -the hands of the barbarous natives. Having made application for this -post in Mindanao, I received orders to report on board the _Zafiro_, -one of Admiral Dewey’s old colliers at the battle of Manila Bay. - -On reporting to the executive officer of the vessel, I was assigned to -quarters, and, after unbuckling my accoutrements and placing them -safely away, I met Corporal Bates and Drummer Vogt, from another -company, who were also detailed on a southern trip,――Bates to Isabella -de Basilan, a post on the Island of Basilan, and Vogt to the post -where I was bound for. - -It was New Year’s eve, December 31, 1902, and, as the ship was under -orders to sail at 9 P.M., we decided to hurry ashore, purchase a -basket of edibles, drinkables, cigars, and playing cards, that we -might see the old year out and the new year in, in true military -fashion. Jumping into a launch we were taken ashore, and, after laying -in a supply, hastened back to the ship. - -Having returned on board this historic old collier, which had been -converted into a supply-ship manned by a Chinese crew, we reported to -the “skipper” who was responsible for our safe delivery at the -destinations designated in our orders. - -The chief engineer, McDonald, a typical Scotch-Highlander, whose -birthplace was in Ayr, Scotland, but who had lived most of his life in -Australia, was glad to have company this New Year’s eve and greeted us -with that fervor so characteristic of his race. We were introduced to -First Mate Meigs and Quartermaster Nolan. Meigs had held a -lieutenant’s commission in the Brazilian navy during the revolution, -while Nolan had served under General Kitchener in the Soudan. - -The Chinese crew of the _Zafiro_ were thorough sailors to a man, from -the “chink” who handled the wheel down to the fellows who passed the -coal. - -At two bells (9 o’clock) anchors were weighed, and the splash of the -propellers made it evident that we were under way. Chinese could be -seen at their various posts of duty, in that semi-unconscious custom -so perceptible in this class of people, whether steering a craft or -ironing the bosom of a shirt. - -As the ship passed through the Mona Chica, the gateway between the -China Sea and Manila Bay, we could see, off to starboard, the lights -on Corregidor Island, which faded from view as our vessel steamed into -the darkness of the China Sea. - -As the ship cruised along the coast of Luzon, Chinese off duty could -be seen engaged in playing Fan Tan, some pleating their cues, while -others stored away potions of chop-suey. - -In the cabin of McDonald, Vogt picked a banjo, while Bates and myself -sang songs such as, “There’s a red light on the track for boozer -Brown” and “Oh, Mona, you shall be free.” Stories of adventure were -told by Meigs and Nolan, and Chief McDonald recited poem after poem of -the great poet Burns. - -On the dawn of the new year 1903, the siren was blown, and the bell -struck 19 and 3, after which the entire contingent surrounded a table -laden with turkey and all the accessories of a new year’s dinner, -including Scotch high-balls and Manila cigars, and a more enjoyable -new year’s dinner or breakfast I never expect to experience. The songs -varied from the “Bonnie, Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond” to “The Wearing -of the Green,” interspersed with stories of love, war, and adventure, -and I doubt if we marines could have been entertained with more -satisfaction in the most exclusive suite of the _Lusitania_ than we -were this night in the cabin of McDonald on the _Zafiro_. - -After cruising for two days along the verdant shore of Luzon, we -entered the picturesque harbor of Isabella de Basilan, a Filipino -village situated along the water’s edge surrounded by banana and -cocoanut groves. Quaint-looking fishermen, adepts at throwing the -seine, were scattered over the bay, while a motley crowd of native -women were engaged in pounding calico with smooth stones, their mode -of cleansing. - -Barracks on the edge of the town contained a company of marines; among -these I found a number of whom I knew. After unloading provisions and -other stores, and leaving Corporal Bates behind, our ship steamed on -her voyage to Polloc, the name of the village where the garrison was -located. Having a cargo of freight on board for Zamboanga, the capital -of Mindanao, we touched this harbor just long enough to dispose of it, -and continued our cruise, steaming south along a mountainous range -studded with extinct volcanoes, and ere long had moored to the wharf -at Polloc in the bay of Prang Prang. Here we were met by seventy -marines, all anxious to hear the news from the outside world, as mail -was received here but twice a month. - -Although isolated, Polloc was an ideal post, a health-giving resort -with excellent water and trees teeming with tropical fruit. Game, such -as wild boar, deer, and wild cattle, roamed at will throughout the -island. The Moros of this island kept “Uncle Sam’s” soldiers guessing -for several years, until finally subdued through the efforts of -General Wood. Unlike the Filipino, the Moro is a brave warrior, -preferring the open to jungle fighting. The Moros handle the spear, -barong, and kreese with great skill, and, when not engaged in a game -of monte, may be seen practising with these weapons of warfare. - -The nights in this island of the Celebes Sea commence immediately at -sundown, there being no twilight; a calm serenity pervades the barrios -after the shades of night have fallen, when natives gather under the -drooping palms surrounding the nippa-shacks, around which the graceful -coils of smoke ascend from a smudge kept burning to check the advance -of the ever-annoying mosquito. Here, to the accompaniment of harp and -guitar, the Filipino inhabitants (for there are many of these in -Mindanao) sing quaint songs in the Tagalog or Visayan tongue. Dancing -girls, bearing such names as Oleano, Agripina, Donaziti, and Juana, -perform the “Fandango” with bewitching contortions, gracefully tapping -a tambourine and snapping the castanets to the music of the “La -Paloma.” The village is dimly lighted by cocoanut oil, kerosene being -a rarity in this section of the world. At such places we marines off -duty gathered nightly, where, over a bottle of dulce tinto and box of -alhambras, we spun yarns of our adventures, occasionally joining the -señoritas in their late carousals, to the delight of the friendly -Moros who inhabited the village. - -The Moros had become quite hostile in the Lake region, and a battle -had been fought near what is now Camp Vicars on Lake Lanao, with dire -results to the enemy; this had exercised every native warrior on the -island to such an extent that it became necessary for the marines to -re-establish an outpost overlooking the bay and the Amadao Valley. -Having volunteered for this particular duty, we were ordered (one -sergeant, two corporals, and ten privates) to pack everything of -necessity pertaining to field-service on ponies and proceed to our -destination. - -With a string of pack ponies, two Colt automatic and one machine gun, -we set out for the site of the outpost amid deafening cheers from the -garrison. We reached the knoll of a hill, a splendid point of vantage, -seven miles distant from the town, from which we could view the entire -surrounding country; here stood an old Spanish blockhouse, from which -we flew “Old Glory,” and, after policing the ground, pitched tents, -mounted the guns, posted a sentry, and were ready for action. The -following day we were connected by telephone with the garrison and had -cut the underbrush away from the knoll of the hill on which we were -stationed. - -The only break in the monotony of several months of this life would -occur when a detail, sent into the garrison for rations, would return, -bringing us mail from the outside world and news from the company in -quarters. - -Game abounded plentifully in this section of the island, and at night -the weird grunt of a wild boar and the bark of a deer could be heard -in the near-by jungle. Large vampires, darting overhead like phantom -aeroplanes, were numerous here as in other islands of the Philippines. - -Moros approaching the outpost were compelled to leave their side-arms -in the jungle. Quite a number desired to be friendly with the -Americans; these were traders. They would bring in chickens, eggs, -fruit, wild-fowl, venison, fish, roasted grasshoppers, and tuber. Eggs -containing chickens, as in other parts of Mindanao and northern Luzon, -were more valuable than fresh eggs. Tuber is a native beverage taken -from the cocoanut tree, and has all the exhilarating effects of “Dry -Monopole.” - -Thousands of monkeys infested the jungle surrounding the camp. On one -occasion while returning from a boar hunt, something happened which -nearly converted me to the Darwinian theory. Near the edge of a coffee -plantation I spied a number of monkeys in a mango tree; raising my -rifle I fired, dropping a monkey. The animal, merely wounded, came -running toward me, bleeding from the chest and uttering a pitiful cry, -then, leaning against a tree, placed its hands over the wound and, -with a most pitiful and appealing expression, gazed up at me in -tearful agony, as much as to say, “What the devil did I do to you?” I -ended its suffering, and resolved never to shoot another monkey. - -While hunting wild-boar in company with Weismantle, a member of the -detachment, we had come across a “wallow” in a ravine near the Rio -Grande River. Weismantle, being an experienced huntsman, could tell -that the “wallow” had recently been frequented by hogs; he said, “You -take a position about forty feet on one side of the ravine, and I’ll -be on the opposite side; sit perfectly quiet, don’t even smoke, as the -boar is sure to return.” Following his directions to the letter, I -sought the shade of a large grape-fruit tree, where, seated on a log -with a bramble-bush blind, I awaited the arrival of the game. - -In deep meditation I had sat with my rifle cocked for perhaps forty -minutes, eagerly awaiting the shadow of a pig, and was beginning to -get restless, when hark! a dull thud on the ground attracted my -attention to a guava tree near by, where I saw, hanging from and -partly wrapped around a low limb, an immense boa constrictor. For a -moment I was hypnotized; the snake’s head was hidden by the -underbrush, and in fact it was impossible to see either end of the -monster; I could merely see the coils wrapped around the limb and -hanging from the tree. To say that the sight of a boa constrictor -excited horror in my mind is putting it mildly, for, being unable to -see its head, it would have been folly to shoot with a rifle; -furthermore, I imagined I was in a den of these powerful -life-crushers; every moment I expected to feel myself enwrapped in the -monster’s coils, and for this emergency I had drawn my knife. Another -twist of this snake, and I was hitting the high places only; I leaped -through the tall grass like an Igorrote head-hunter, and now, to add -to my mental discomfiture, I ran on to a wild-boar, which gave a most -unearthly squeal; this, followed by the report of Weismantle’s rifle, -made it seem as though all the demons of hell had been turned loose. -After regaining my composure, I tracked the boar by drops of blood for -several hundred yards, where we found it in time to bleed it properly. -When I told the marine the experience I had had, he wanted to return, -but I refused to point in the direction, so the trip was postponed. -After tying the feet of our game together, we cut a long bamboo pole, -on which we packed it into the outpost, where it was roasted on a -spit. - -Chess, pinocle, whist, and poker were popular games in the camp, as -they are in all quarters of the army and navy, and in this way many -pleasant hours were spent when off duty. - -The migration of locusts on the Island of Mindanao is a novel sight; -approaching in the distance, they appear like a large black cloud, the -forerunner of a tornado; millions upon millions of these jumping -insects, totally eclipsing the sun, continue on their flight for -hours, leaving leafless trees and devastated fields in the train of -their route. - -A great character at the outpost was Corporal Jim Iddles, a Scotchman, -and a great friend of mine. Jim had a keen appetite for tuber, and, -growing weary of the simple life, approached me one morning with the -suggestion that we take a hike to a near-by “barrio” in quest of some -native sangaree. The nearest barrio was Mongahon, seven miles distant, -so, slipping on our belts, with six-shooters and rifles, we hit the -trail over the mountains, informing Sergeant McKenzie, who was in -charge of the outpost, that we were going a short distance in the -jungle to shoot a deer. - -On our arrival at Mongahon, we found the village deserted, with no -natives to climb the cocoanut trees, and, as tuber is tapped at the -top of the tree, we were out of luck, as an American cannot climb -these trees owing to the millions of red ants that infest them. The -nearest village from this point was Amadao, in the Amadao Valley, on -the Rio Grande River eight miles distant. At this juncture it was -decided to toss a coin, head for Amadao, tail for the outpost. As the -coin was tossed on the “heads I win, tails you lose” system, it was -not long before we were beating the trail, with the valley of the Rio -Grande for our destination. The tribes in this section of the island -had been very hostile, and a battle had been waged near Amadao some -months previous; but, as we had been dealing with traders from this -valley, we decided to keep on the alert until we found these, whom we -knew would represent us as being amigo Americanos. - -As we drew near the “barrio,” we noticed Moros here and there -withdrawing from the fields toward their casas or shacks, evidently -apprehensive of impending danger, as a Moro, on seeing two or three -soldiers within their territory, infers at once that they are an -advance guard of a larger body. Many Moros, in addition to their own -lingo, speak a mixture of Spanish and Visayan, so that with this help -we were able to trace our traders. Resting at a shack in a large -cocoanut grove while an apparently friendly native went in search for -a trader, we were soon greeted by old “Montone,” a native warrior, but -friendly to the Americans. Montone had a complexion as black as the -ace of spades, and was reputed to have been a formidable pirate in his -palmy days, operating along the coast of the Celebes Sea. He bore -evidence of this reputation by the valuable ornaments he possessed; on -his wrist he wore a jade bracelet, above each elbow a bracelet of -solid gold, while two massive rings hung from his ears; his kreese was -priceless, containing pearls and other precious gems, the blade being -inlaid with gold, while surmounting the hilt was a solid gold helmet. -Besides, he was tattooed from his shoulders to his wrists; truly he -was “the king of the cocoanut grove,” and, while not a “Datto,” had -all the authority and appearance of one. - -Montone at once sent a native for a stick of tuber (a bamboo cylinder -holding three quarts). Tuber is a cool tropical beverage, the sap of -the cocoanut tree, which can only be drawn by tapping the top of the -tree. It has a sharp sweet taste and, like champagne, its effects are -lasting. After finishing the first order we sent for more. I believe -we were on the fourth order when the Scotchman endeavored to entertain -an imaginary audience, and the last I remember of him before a -profound slumber claimed me, he was standing on a stone pile singing, -“Green grow the rushes O, Green grow the rushes O,” et cetera, to an -imaginary audience of about twenty thousand, it seemed to me. - -Dawn was breaking when I awoke, I knew not where; my first thought was -of my six-shooter; it was gone; my rifle, belt, and ammunition were -gone, and several moments were spent in conjecture as to the reality -of my personal existence. I tried to think, but all seemed blank; I -had reached the abysm of oblivion, when I recalled that last song of -my partner Jim, the tuber, and alas! the sequence mysteriously puzzled -my brain. Had I been sleeping like Rip Van Winkle in the Catskills? or -was it the hallucination of a dream, that would vanish with the -awakening? I was soaking wet. Quietly crawling to an aperture through -which the rays of a moon-beam shone, I discovered that I was in a -nippa-shack on the brink of a ravine. Suddenly I heard deep breathing. -Quietly tiptoeing in the direction of the sound, I saw in another -compartment several natives scattered about in peaceful slumber. -Satisfying myself that they were Filipinos and not Moros, I awakened -one of the men, who arose, exclaiming, “Ah! amigo Americano, mucho -bueno grande hombre.” Fortunately, this Filipino was a friendly native -who had formerly been employed by the provost in the town of Polloc. - -He informed me that he was _en route_ from Cota Bato (a small shipping -port), where he had taken a shipment of hemp, and, passing through the -village of Amadao, had seen me in the company of hostile Moros, and -had invited me to ride on the back of his caribou to his casa. In -fording the Rio Grande River, the animal had stumbled, throwing us -into the stream, and this accounted for the wet condition I was in. - -On making inquiries about my rifle, the native went to the adjoining -room, returning with my six-shooter, rifle, and belt. Both weapons I -had made useless by taking the drum and pin from the revolver and the -bolt from the rifle, a custom a soldier is taught early in his -military career, for cases of emergency. - -When I inquired about my partner Jim, the Filipino said that I was the -only white man he had seen in the valley, but that, at about midnight, -he had heard rifle volleys in various directions. Here I concluded -that the garrison had been turned out in quest of the two missing -marines, and the shots had been fired with the hope of getting an -answer. - -By this time the other members of the household had awakened, and, -after being served with hot black coffee, I was directed to follow the -trail along the Rio Grande River, which led through tall grass and -bramble. - -As I hiked along the lonely trail, my thoughts were centred on my -friend Jim Iddles. I could imagine his lifeless form lying cold in -abhorrent demise, and conjectured how if alive we were to escape the -punishment of a general court-martial. After many miles of tiresome -travel, I was hailed from a branch trail by a friendly Moro, a dwarf -of the mountains, whose abode was in the village of Panay and who -frequently visited the outpost, selling produce and game. This -diminutive spirit of the forest, who reminded me of the elves in -Irving’s Rip Van Winkle, aimed straight for me, cutting his way -through the jungle with his kreese. He greeted me with the customary -“Amigo Americano,” and informed me that he had been sent out in search -of me by the commanding officer of marines at Polloc. Leading the way, -I followed him in single file along the trail through banana groves -and jungle where parrots and monkeys were numerous. After a weary -hike, I spied “Old Glory” waving in the breeze from the old Spanish -blockhouse at the outpost; as we drew near, I could see the soldiers -gazing intently in my direction; the sentry had spied us and aroused -the camp. After a cheer and a hearty handshake from the boys, my -mental agitation was relieved when informed that Iddles had been found -in Amadao about midnight, by a detachment that had been sent out from -the garrison. - -Iddles was found asleep in a Moro shack, in front of which patrolled a -Moro sentry carrying Jim’s rifle, belt, and six-shooter. - -After relating part of my adventure to the boys, the garrison was -informed of my safety, and in a few hours the commandant and captain -of marines were on the scene to ascertain the facts connected with our -absence. Meanwhile both Jim and myself, looking the worse for wear, -policed ourselves to a high degree of soldierly immaculateness, and -after a confab it was decided that I should act as spokesman on the -arrival of the officers. - -The story we framed was this: that, having followed the bark of a deer -for a considerable distance in the jungle, we lost our bearings (“lost -our bearings” was good!), and, differing in opinion as to the -direction of the camp, we were each directed by the influence of our -respective opinions, resulting in both getting lost. The circumstances -in connection with the finding of James had been withheld from the -officers; while my experience had been only partly related to the men, -they having heard that I departed from the valley mounted on a caribou -driven by a Filipino. - -When confronted by the officers, I told the tale of our adventure: of -our having followed the bark of a deer leading us into a labyrinth of -perplexity (as dears sometimes do!), of our difference in opinion, the -friendly attitude of the Moros, and the kindness of a Filipino in -conducting me to his casa, where I was provided with quarters for the -night. Iddles corroborated my story as far as it related to himself, -and dwelt particularly on the friendliness of the Moros of the Amadao -Valley. After asking various questions in cross examination, the -captain said, “Well, men, I am glad to see you alive; your adventure -has been of some profit.” Then, turning to Sergeant McKenzie, he said, -“If two of our men can go into the jungle as these men did, mingling -in friendship with the natives without being molested, I can see no -necessity of continuing the outpost; stand relieved, break camp, and -return to the garrison.” - -There was no court-martial, scarcely a reprimand, and the soldiers of -the outpost tendered Jim and me a vote of thanks for the hand we -played in getting them back to the comforts of the barracks. - -It is a singular fact that a few months later, on the renewal of -hostilities in the Lake region, a band of Moros of the Amadao Valley, -under the leadership of a noted “Datto,” offered their services to the -commanding officer at Polloc. Like the American Indians, the Moros are -divided into tribes, among whom for ages past there has been strife or -contention for superiority. - -Our two years having expired in foreign service, the detachment was -ordered to Olongapo to join the homeward-bound battalion. Shortly -after this we bade adieu to Moroland and swung out of the bay of Prang -Prang _en route_ to the Island of Luzon. - - - - - X. - - A Midnight Phantasy in California - - The Vision――The Capture――“Frisco” and Its Favorite Haunts. - - -Having had considerable experience with copper thieves in the navy -yards of Washington, D. C., New York, and Cavite, Philippine Islands, -I was not overly surprised when, about midnight late in the autumn of -1903, while serving in the capacity of patrol at the Mare Island Navy -Yard, California, as I chanced along the waterfront, to see the shadow -of an apparent river pirate, presumably collecting copper bars from a -large pile of this valuable metal. The man evidently, it appeared to -me, had a boat in which he was storing the bars to be rowed across the -channel to Valejo, the old Spanish gambling town and gold-miners’ -retreat of the old days. - -Without the least exaggeration, I must acknowledge to having been -during my career in some very uncomfortable predicaments while -grovelling through the vicissitudes of life’s various phases, and a -strong resolution, which I have always held sacred, has been, never to -take a life without giving the person a chance for his own; therefore, -self-defence or being in action with the enemy could be my only -palliation. This night, however, presented cause for exception to this -rule. The corner of a large steam-engineering building hid from view -the man whose shadow played in grotesque evolutions on the pier, and -it was impossible to see him without uncovering myself to his gaze, -but there lurked the shadow of every move cast vividly before my -keen-set eyes. - -As I quietly knelt in seclusion surrounded by the densest gloom, -meditating as to how I might take the object alive, positively -realizing that he was well armed, from my previous experience with -river thieves, I saw the shadow portray a man drawing a gun and -examining it closely, the shadow indicating that he was either trying -the trigger or testing the T block of an automatic pistol. - -It dawned on me that my duty bade me to halt this man, and, if in any -way he attempted to evade me, to kill him. - -I had the narrow neck of the channel covered, and it was my intention, -if he attempted to shove off in a boat with any copper, to halt him, -and, if he ignored my command, to fire. However, not seeing the shadow -disappear for even an instant aroused my suspicion, as to load the -copper in the boat in any shape or manner it would have been necessary -to pass on the opposite side of an old obsolete sentry-box, thereby -obliterating even the semblance of a shadow. - -I was cognizant of the fact that had I aroused the guard they would -send out the steam-launch to cover the exit, and, if the man attempted -to escape, fire on him, which I wished to prevent. - -What in the devil can that fellow be doing? I conjectured in silence, -as the mystical representation of his every move, like a phantom -depicting anything and everything, was cast along the ground and pier -as if superinduced by some supernatural agency. Merely prowling for -the choicest bars, I soliloquized. Hark! “Number one, one o’clock and -all is well!” The stillness of the night had been broken by the -sentries calling off the hour. “Number two, one o’clock and all is -well!” “Number three, one o’clock and all is well!” “Number four, one -o’clock and all is well!” “All is well!” repeated sentry number one at -the guard-house as he continued on his beat. “Third relief, fall in! -Get a move on, boys! The officer of the day is apt to be lurking -around!” commanded the corporal of the guard, as the men promptly fell -into their proper places for posting formation. “Count off!” commanded -the non-commissioned officer, each man counting the number of his -post. “Port arms! Open chambers! Close chambers! Order arms! Number -one!” As number one was being posted, the sergeant of the guard -interposed: “Corporal, I want those sentries to turn over not only -their special orders but their general orders as well; see that they -know them thoroughly: have them tell you what is to be done in case of -fire, and be sure that they know where the fire-plugs are located. -Butt Plate Willie is officer of the day and is raising hell around -here because the sentries don’t know their orders; now, they better -get wise to the military or off come their belts.” “Pshaw! Butt Plate -Willie don’t know his own orders,” ejaculated the corporal as he gave -the command, “Shoulder arms! Right face! Forward march!” - -The shadow had taken another position and seemed to be in kneeling -posture at the rifle-range, setting the wind-gauge of his rifle for -the prone figure in the skirmish run. - -The corporal was marching the old relief back to the guard-house, as -sentry number one called out, “Number one, half past one and all is -well!” followed in succession by each sentry calling off the hour. -Each man of the relief, on falling out, kicked like a mule for being -detained overtime on post. - -It was half past one and surely time for me to make the rounds through -my various posts of duty. - -At this instant the shadow disappeared, followed by the dull sound of -dislodged copper. The moon had taken a position behind a dark cloud, -which gave me an opportunity to skirt the end of the pier to another -secluded spot where I could await its reappearance, when I could -positively determine whether this shadow was an apparition, a reality, -or merely a transcript in the memory formed by the imagination of -phantasy. - -As the lunar glow beamed through the clouds, the outlines of a soldier -appeared to my view, merely the profile, with his face resting in the -palms of his hands. I momentarily seized this opportunity and pounced -upon my prey, and, for the “love of Mike,” who was it but “Stormy -Bill,” a “character” at the post. “Ha! ha! What in hell are you doing -here? robbing the copper pile, hey?” I exclaimed, knowing in my heart -Bill was as honest as the night was long. Like the raven, Bill quoth, -“Never more.” “What brought you here at this hour of the night?” I -asked. “Bad whiskey,” sighed Bill, his light of enthusiasm burning -dimly. “I hid a flask here yesterday and came here to-night to look -for it.” “Yes, and keep me prowling around all night expecting every -minute to be shot by copper thieves,” I interposed. “You’re a fine -specimen of a marine! What do you think this navy yard is, a picnic -ground?” Continuing, “Now you draw yourself together quick or I’ll -have you manacled and thrown in the brig.” “Ah!” he said, “cut out the -strong talk. I came here to look for a flask of rye, I am not going to -run away with the copper pile.” “That will do you,” I said. “You have -evidently found the rye, and I want you to blow out of here.” “Yes,” -said “Stormy,” “I have found it.――Eureka! Let’s go.” - -I felt like kicking him a few times, then rubbing him with liniment -and kicking him again, merely using the liniment to keep him from -becoming callous lest he should fail to feel the kicks. - -He became garrulous, and, in order to get him to the barracks without -falling into the hands of the guard, it was necessary for me to walk -him about two miles to reach one-fourth the distance. Having piloted -him over lawns and through the shade of the leafy trees, we finally -reached his quarters, where his affable disposition required him to -apologize for my trouble, and, thanking me, he hied off to his cot. -“Stormy,” in the parlance of the soldier, was “good people,” his -greatest fault was in being on too good terms with old “Cyrus Noble.” -A few weeks after this event I left “Stormy” behind, having been -ordered to another post. - -_En route_ from the Philippines with the Twenty-ninth Infantry in -1909, as the transport pulled up to the pier at Honolulu a voice from -the dock called out my name. Leaning over the taffrail, whom should I -see but “Stormy Bill!” He had been made a non-commissioned officer in -a battery of artillery and was stationed on the Island of Oahu. - -Mare Island covers considerable space in the Bay of San Francisco, -lying about sixteen miles northwest of the “Golden Gate” overlooking -the bay and Pacific Ocean. It is the naval base of California. - -While stationed at this post I frequently ran over to “Frisco,” either -by steam-boat or rail, where with a good convivival bunch I joined in -the festivities at such temples of mirth as the famous “Poodle Dog,” -from whose showy tiers or projecting balconies the pageants and -processions of Market Street could be seen passing by, as the guests, -environed by the sweet notes of a Hungarian rhapsody, were the -embodiment of gayety and content. Lombardi’s, famous for Italian -“table d’hôte” dinners and particularly noted for their mode of -preparing macaroni; Svenguenetti’s, whose reputation in crustacean -specialties, particularly in the culinary of lobsters and shrimps, was -known to the Bohemians far and wide. Zinkand’s, and scores of others, -where the music thrilled one’s very soul, and where the nymphs of the -“Golden West” could tell you how to braid a lariat and a quirt, break -a pony, and twirl the rope, and, although not adepts at the game of -golf, could tell some funny stories of picking hops under Western -skies. Kearney Street, which afforded the halls for the graceful -glide, wherein could be found the same aspect of the West of frontier -days. Prepossessing maidens in scalloped buckskin skirts, high-topped -shoes, sombreros beautifully banded with Indian beads, and corsages -cut very décolletée, danced with gallant young fellows whose costumes -savored of the Mexican variety and whose bright and breezy effulgence -was conducive to the merriment of the night. The Orpheum, Oberon, Log -Cabin, Cascade, and the Grotto, all flourished in prosperous -placidity, through a long chain of patronage of the world’s bohemians -since the days of the path-finding “Forty-niners.” - -Occasionally we tripped to “Mechanic’s Pavilion,” to witness the -knights of the fistic art battle for supremacy, and note the radiant -smiles of the shining lights of the arena as a “knockout” was -perfected. But alas! the old haunts of Market and Ellis Streets and -the beautiful edifices of the old-time “Frisco”――where are they? The -echo answers, “Where?” Vanished with the stroke of nature’s wand, that -calamitous earthquake and subsequent fire of 1906, in whose train the -mournful ravages of devastation grinned in fiendish glee. - -Though similar to the overwhelming destruction of the ancient city of -Campania, San Francisco’s ruin was not irremediable, for, like the -surprisingly sudden demolition, there burst into view, like spring -flowers following a thunder-storm, the magnificent new city of the -“Golden Gate,” blazing in the zenith of prosperity. It may be -necessary to make inquiries or perhaps consult a city directory, but -you will find the same old joyful haunts flourishing as of yore. - -My tour of duty at Mare Island was brought to a close on being ordered -to New York to join the mobilization of the St. Louis battalion. - - - - - XI. - - Semper Fidelis――the Guard of Honor - - U.S. Marines at the St. Louis Exposition――Veterans of Various - Expeditions――Mobilization at Washington, D. C.――Arrival in St. - Louis――An Ideal Military Camp――Exhibition Drills, Marines in - Bohemia――The Spanish Señoritas of Old Madrid――Coleens and Harpists - of the Emerald Isle――Cheyenne Joe’s Rocky Mt. Inn――Palm Garden - Dances in the “Wee Sma” Hours――Chaperoning a Theatrical Party――A - Dinner at the Tyrolean Alps――A Famous “Broadway” Actress Meets - Geronimo the Apache Chief――Marines Battle with Filipino - Scouts――Arrival of Mounted Police, Farewell to the “Fair”――Oh, - Maryland, My Maryland. - - -The battalion of marines that composed the Guard of Honor at the -Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis in 1904 was the finest -representation of Uncle Sam’s sea soldiers that has ever been -mobilized. In order to meet the requirements in organizing this -battalion, it was necessary to select men from the Atlantic, European, -and Asiatic fleets, besides the various navy yards of the United -States. The requirements of the navy department in selecting material -for this detachment were: that each man must be not under five feet -and eight inches in height and of military bearing, a veteran of -foreign service, possessing an excellent character and a clean -military record. Several months were spent in securing the necessary -quota to complete these essential conditions, which, when perfected, -represented not only the flower of the United States Marine Corps, but -a worthy rival for honors with the best military force ever organized. - -Washington, D. C., was the site of our mobilization. Every member of -the battalion was exempt from duty, save that which tended to the -arduous exhibit of military evolutions, calisthenics, and bayonet -exercise. The drill in these was strenuous; five hours each day under -the tutorage of a skilful drill-master soon brought the battalion to a -state of perfection. The famous United States Marine Band furnished -the music during these drills, and the pleasure derived from this -alone offset the tedium of manœuvre. - -Each man was perfectly fitted by a tailor for the eight uniforms which -he was required to have; these were of blue, khaki, and white duck. -Every article of his wearing apparel had to be an exact fit, from -shoes to cap. Every article of equipment and all accoutrements were -issued brand new. Flags, tents, ditty-boxes, cots, blankets, -mosquito-bars, rifles, six-shooters, bayonets, belts, canteens, -haversacks, toilet-sets were all fresh and new. - -The Louisiana Purchase Exposition, which commemorated the centennial -of the purchase of the Louisiana Territory in 1803, opened April 30, -1904, and closed December 1, of the same year. - -The site of the Marine Camp was near and on the west side of the -Palace of Liberal Arts, lying between the Liberal Arts building and -the Intramural Railway, near the Government building, and north of the -Tyrolean Alps, lagoons, and cascades. - -May 20, 1904, the day set for our departure from Washington to St. -Louis, was an ideal day in every respect. The Marine Band discoursed -inspiring music, and, as the battalion of two hundred marines, under -the command of Major (now Colonel) Mahoney, made their appearance on -the parade-ground, the band took a position reaching from the arcade -of Marine Headquarters to the street. First call was sounded, followed -by assembly, each marine took his place in line, the roll was called, -and the battalion formed. As the stentorian voice of the battalion -commander rang out, “Battalion, attention! Right forward, fours right! -March!” the Marine Band struck up, “Under the double eagle,” as the -entire column swung into Pennsylvania Avenue. All along the route to -the Pennsylvania Railroad station, from sidewalks and windows, the -battalion met with expressions of popular applause. Boarding two -sections of Pullman sleepers with baggage- and dining-cars attached, -each man adjusted himself conformably to his surroundings, with that -decorum born only of military experience. The signal given, the train -rolled out of the station, the band playing, “Meet me in St. Louis, -Louis, meet me at the Fair.” - -The men who comprised this “Guard of Honor” were tried and seasoned -veterans: some had been with Dewey at the battle of Manila Bay, some -with the American squadron at Santiago, while others had taken part in -the Philippines insurrection, the “Boxer” campaign in China, the -campaign against hostile Moros, and the Samar expedition. Several had -been awarded certificates of merit for valor by Congress, while at -least one man――namely, Sergeant John Quick, “the hero of -Guantanamo”――was distinguished as possessing that most coveted emblem -of heroism, “the Medal of Honor,” which can be gained only by -exceptional gallantry in action in the presence of the enemy. - -To these soldiers of the sea this trip was of considerable moment as -regards the novelty thereof. Thousands of miles had been covered by -land and sea by the majority, who had touched at the ports of every -country on the face of the globe, many of whom having served in the -City of Pekin, China, as members of the Legation Guard; so that this -variation from the irksome duties aboard a man-of-war, or the burning -sun of the tropics, to the more tranquil atmosphere of a model camp at -a “world’s fair,” was more than rejuvenating. The trip was devoid of -the usual skylarking attending a body of raw and untried recruits, and -it is a matter of fact, that, a few days after the arrival at the -Exposition, Major Mahoney received, from the management of the -Pennsylvania Railroad, a letter commending him on the excellent -deportment of his command. - -Arriving in St. Louis Sunday morning, May 22, we immediately alighted -from the train, the battalion was formed, and marched to the “Fair” -grounds, through the Olive Street entrance, to the site of our -rendezvous; the colors were hoisted to the flagpole, and by 12 o’clock -noon our camp had been pitched, each A wall tent towering uniformly -over the chalk-marked square on the red shale, and with the precision -of the Barnum and Bailey shows. Each tent had a well-fitting floor, -and between each row of tents stretched a beautiful lawn of grass, on -either side of which was a board-walk. The battalion commander’s -headquarters, as well as the tents of the other officers, faced the -head of the company streets, and were separated by a unique road, over -which vehicles were debarred. The camp was illuminated by large arc -lights. In the rear of the last row of tents stood the sick quarters, -canteen, guard-house, barber-shop, cobbler, tailor, and shower-baths. - -The camp was typically a model military village, with all modern -conveniences, even to an up-to-date restaurant which had been erected -purposely for the accommodation of the battalion. This building was -beautifully situated in a shady grove opposite the Kentucky building. -In India the British are noted for their model camps and bungalow -quarters; but an English officer, after seeing the marines in St. -Louis, was heard to remark, that this American camp beggared -description. - - [Illustration: U.S. MARINES, WORLD’S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904] - -The Plaza Orleans was the scene of daily exhibitions given by the West -Point cadets, Philippine scouts, and United States marines. Thousands -of spectators thronged the roped enclosure daily, and the applause -from these was deafening. Strains of music from a dozen different -bands filled the air, the most famous of these being the United States -Marine Band, Sousa’s, Gilmore’s, Hawaiian, Mexican, Royal Grenadier of -London, Philippines Constabulary, La Republic of France, Band De -Espanol, Neapolitan of Italy, and the army bands,――the Second and -Twenty-fourth Infantry, the latter colored. Besides these there were -scores of others, including bagpipers and the insular band of the -Tagalogs with bamboo instruments. - -In addition to the exhibition drills and camp exhibit of the marines, -they also had charge of the naval exhibits in the government building. -Each man had to be thoroughly familiar with the mechanism or history, -as the case might be, of the integral point of each exhibit, in order -to explain and answer questions intelligently. The camp was garrisoned -by a detail of marines, who patrolled on each side of the square, from -the day of our arrival until the close of the “Fair.” - -This style of soldiering was a rare treat to the boys; they were given -free admittance to every concession on the grounds, and the six months -spent in the heart of this stupendous show of the earth will ever -remain vivid in the memories of the men who comprised this battalion. - -Stretching over a vast area of Forest Park, enclosed by a high board -fence, stood the magnificent Palaces of Varied Industries, Liberal -Art, Agriculture, Mines and Metallurgy, Manufacture and -Transportation, Palaces of Machinery and Electricity, Festival Hall, -and the Cascades, the Government Building, Tyrolean Alps, the Stadium, -Ferris Wheel, and the sunken garden; the camps of the West Point -cadets, Artillery and Infantry; Hospital, Signal, and Life-saving -Corps. Museums containing relics of anthropology, zoölogy, geology, -anthology, and numerous other scientific researches were everywhere in -evidence. In one British concession, soldiers of the “Household” -cavalry of London stood watch over the magnificent “Queen’s Jubilee -presents” which had been presented to Queen Victoria by the nations of -the earth. Five hundred Indians, representing various tribes, in all -their habiliments of war, here flourished at their best, the most -prominent chiefs among these being Geronimo, Iron Mountain, and White -Cloud. Every State in the Union was represented with an appropriate -edifice, that of the State of Missouri being the most imposing. -Statues and images from the chisels of the world’s most famous -sculptors adorned a section in the Palace of Varied Industries, while -the art galleries were filled with the rarest paintings of the most -celebrated artists of all times and all nations. - -To enumerate even the most important exhibits of this prodigious -exposition would require volumes, and, for the benefit of those whose -duties prevented them from seeing the “Fair,” I wish to say that it is -impossible to form a conception of the progress this world attained -during the century since the purchase of the Louisiana Territory. - -At night the electrical display was a dazzling glitter of -phosphorescence; myriads of incandescent lights of variegated colors -were strung along the lagoons, cascades, and Pike, these combined with -large arc lights completed an illumination of festive splendor. - -A group of marines could be found nightly in social session on -Napoleon bridge, a span of the lagoons, meditatively absorbing the -sweet strains of the ever-entrancing Italian Yama Yama, sung by -Venetian “gondoliers,” as they gracefully plied parties in gondolas -through thread-like canals fed by the waters of the cascades. The -inspiration animated by the grandeur of the surroundings on these -occasions, the thrilling sweetness of the singing, to the mellow-toned -accompaniment of mandolins and guitars, had a most electrifying -effect. Music, music, music, music, everywhere; sweethearts, music, -and mirth, that was the slogan. “Love me and the world is mine” is -hummed in chorus by this happy-go-lucky bunch of jolly tars, whose -only responsibilities are confined to the hours of love and duty, and -whose motto is, “Be a good fellow here, and you’ll be a good fellow -there.” - -“The Pike, the Pike! let’s shove off for the Pike.” They stop a few -moments to hear the soft tones of Il Trovatore by the famous Hawaiian -band, and exchange greetings with some St. Louis friends, who propose -a mild stimulant for their infirmities which consist chiefly of a -severe thirst that needs quenching. Downey’s cabaret is sought, where -in a cosey corner of bohemia the corks are drawn from ice-cold bottles -of “blue-ribbon” as they sing of “the soft-flowing dreamy old Rhine” -and “Meet me to-night in dreamland.” The latest stories are told and -toasts are drunk to the health of the absent. From the tinkling -glasses of bohemia, the marines meander to the Pike. Ten minutes’ walk -from the north pole to Ireland through a labyrinth of gayety. -Everybody visited the Pike, particularly at night, when the soft pedal -was put on conventionalities and every “piker” became a thoroughbred -bohemian, and then some. Commencing at the north pole you would follow -in rotation on either side of this animated thoroughfare: first the -Galveston flood, an excellent representation of the devastation of -that Texan city: Battle Abbey, with its relics of antiquity, on the -right; cross over, and you see Hobson sinking the _Merrimac_, also the -battle of Santiago. There is a rush, and we find ourselves in Turkey, -watching the slim princess trying to beat it with an American kodak -fiend. After “shooting the chutes” a few times, in order to be sure of -not missing anything, you stroll to a palmy dance-hall and join in a -“Frisco dip” or perhaps a “St. Louis rag,” with liquid refreshments -during the intervals. - -From this point you take a boat for the “Garden of Eden” and the -scenes of creation; the dark recesses of this cavernous route were the -cause of many leap-year proposals in 1904. Leaving Paradise you stop -to watch a fellow picking confetti out of his sweetheart’s eyes; he is -laughing, and some one throws a handful of confetti into his mouth; he -swears at this, but he is only joking. A barker on the opposite side -is holding a crowd with his spiel on “Hereafter.” You enter a dark -subterranean passage likened unto the intricate caves in the “Chamber -of Horrors” depicted in Dante’s Inferno, a journey along the river -Styx on the outskirts of hades, and you are transported to Paradise -for a turn along the “golden strand.” Returning to earth, the strains -of music from a Spanish orchestra can be heard in Old Madrid, where -troubadours and matadores exchange stories over a bottle of madeira. A -dark-eyed señorita from Cordova, who wears her clothes well, sings La -Paloma, clicking the castanets to the accompaniment of an orchestra -from Barcelona. “Bravo! bravo!” yell the marines, as she joins them in -a Pall Mall and goblet of wine. - -All aboard for St. Petersburg shouts the conductor of the Great -Siberian Express, from Vladivostok to St. Petersburg and return. -“Under and over the sea” pipes a sailor; “take a ride in a submarine, -ten thousand leagues under the sea.” From a balcony over the entrance -to the Old St. Louis arena, “The Cowboy’s Farewell” is being played by -a genuine cowboy band. This arena is the Indian’s favorite place of -amusement, as the scenes are typical of frontier life. Wading ankle -deep in confetti, you enter into the enchantments and desolations of -Paris, with its relics of the Inquisition, Waterloo, and the Bastille, -the bridge of the Invalides, Rue de Rivoli, and Champs Elysées, here -represented in miniature, where songs were sung by gay Parisians. -Further on are the Japanese and Chinese tea-gardens, Cummings’ wild -west show, Hoyle’s fire-fighters, and Hagenbach’s celebrated animal -show. - -Arabs with tomtoms are attracting a stream of people to mysterious -Asia. Here you find Hindu jugglers, magicians, and snake-charmers, -Oriental dancers of the hootche kootche, and venders of wares of the -“Far East,” camels and donkeys for hire, elephants with gorgeous -canopies in which the children love to ride. This concession has the -spicy odor and Oriental aspect of the Far East. - -Blarney Castle and the Irish village are next. “Ho for the Irish -jaunting car!” All pile in, and we’re off for the Lakes of Killarney, -climb to the Castle and kiss the blarney stone. A Dublin colleen who -is vending shillalahs, canes, and other ornaments of Irish bog-oak, -sweetly sings, “Where the River Shannon flows,” as she pins a fresh -green shamrock on each uniform, then remarks, “If I was a man, I’d be -a soldier too.” The café has a seating capacity of nearly one thousand -people; here the tinkling of glasses is interspersed with sweet music -by harpists from the “Emerald Isle.” You order an Irish high-ball, and -you receive a crême de menthe with a shamrock in it. - -The Pike was the favorite promenade of the “Fair,” something doing -every minute. Here millionaires nudged elbows with paupers; -celebrities of distinguished vocations with the butcher, the baker, -and the candlestick-maker. The various nations of the earth here -commingled in harmony, all possessed with the same feeling of -curiosity and intent on having pleasure. - -After doing the Pike, the Tyrolean Alps was a favorite resort for -midnight diners whose mirth and good fellowship were in keeping with -their surroundings. Delicious terrapin, lobster, and rare-bits were -specialties in this extraordinary café. From a pass in the mountain -chain of the Alps came the clear yodel of a quartette of Tyrolean -singers, whose notes reverberated from the cliffs to the scenes below. - -Swiss maidens from Geneva presided over stalls of quaint curios from -Switzerland, beer-steins and long tobacco-pipes being the most favored -articles. These Swiss girls were great favorites of the marines; they -were constant visitors at the camp during the entire exposition, -scarcely a tent was lacking in some ornamentation or other from the -booths of this Alpine exhibit, while each girl wore pinned to her -shirt-waist an ornament emblematic of the marines, consisting of the -semisphere, the eagle, and the anchor. - -Though not on the grounds, one of the most interesting places of -amusement, and one which without seeing the visitor’s trip to the -“Fair” was incomplete, was “Cheyenne Joe’s Rocky Mountain Inn.” This -famous or infamous resort, as you will have it, had a seating capacity -of more than one thousand people. Tables arranged in squares over a -saw-dust floor were attended by waiters in cowboy costume; in the -centre of this large pavilion a vaudeville performance entertained its -racy patronage; music was continuous, two bands being used for this -purpose; as one ceased playing, the other commenced without interval. -A trained donkey bedecked with ribbons ran from table to table nodding -to the guests. About every twenty minutes, Cheyenne Joe mounted on a -pony would gallop into the scene and cry out, “How much money did we -take in to-day?” In unison the cowboys would yell, “Ten thousand -dollars.” Joe would shout, “Burn half of it up and shoot out the -lights,” whereupon each cowboy drew his gun and banged away, snuffing -out every light in the joint. The lights, of course, were operated -mechanically; darkness ensued for a few moments only, when the light -would be restored. The placards alone were worth a visit to read; but -the mirth and revelry indulged in not only by soldiers, civilians, and -Indians, but hundreds of the fair sex, during the midnight hours in -this Rocky Mountain resort, though lacking in splendor, were akin to -the revels at the feasts of the bacchanalians. - -During the wee sma’ hours of the morning the Palm Garden, a rustic -summer dancing pavilion, with its glossy floor and Italian orchestra, -was ablaze with the scintillating flashes of diamonds which glittered -from the smartly clad feminine patrons of the dizzy whirl. Here, to -the music of such selections as, “Any rags, any bones, any bottles -to-day?” a rag two-step is being performed by a marine and a Venus -with a florid style, whose magic spell lends soothing to the blues, -but whose high heels were not made for a minister’s daughter. - -Surrounding the Fair-grounds and in close proximity were shows of -every description. Conspicuous among these were Forest Park Highlands, -a veritable Coney Island; Luna Park; Delmar Garden, the scene of the -celebrated extravaganza “Louisiana,” the old mill-wheel and “the girl -in blue,” “the cave of the wind,” and “the Queen of the Gypsy -fortune-tellers,” the Delmar Race-track, where gathered together could -be found the most famous thoroughbred racers of the world, with their -coterie of noted jockeys and attendants. - -“Old Heidelberg,” in the German village, was the bohemia of the -outskirts of the big show; here, to the strains of “Die Wacht am -Rhein,” it was strictly proper to eat “hot-dogs” and drink cold steins -of imported “hoff-brau.” - -Sundays, when the Fair was closed, the permanent summer resorts of St. -Louis were flooded with people. Montesano, an island in the -Mississippi River connected by a fleet of steamboats, was the most -favored Sunday resort; the trip down the river alone broke the -monotonoy of the quietude of a hot summer day. The island, with its -groves of shady maple trees and inviting dells, extending from the -smooth sandy beach and through the interior, was an ideal spot to -while away the midday hours in lingering lassitude. There were -dancing, boating, fishing, roller-coasting, flirtations, and all that -goes to make up an ideal pleasure resort. Along the beach, children -with diminutive spades dug holes in the sand in search for shells. -Games of all descriptions were conducted quietly, and with far less -compunction than under the restraint and restrictive laws elsewhere -enforced. - -Merrimac Highlands and Creve Cœur Lake, reached by scenic railways, -were also popular places of amusement. - -The daily average attendance at the exposition was sixty thousand, and -those represented nations of all countries and zones. - -It was very amusing to hear some of the nonsensical questions that -were asked by our rural friends from the land of the sage-brush and -cactus. On one occasion I was approached by an elderly lady with the -following query, “Soldier, would you kindly tell me what time they -feed the lagoons?” I was nonplussed at the question, but ventured to -ask, “Is it a bird or an animal?” She wasn’t sure which, she said, but -a friend of hers had told her that it was a mighty interesting sight. -I had heard of raccoons, loons, and baboons with Mr. Hagenbach’s wild -animal show, and, knowing these had to be fed, I directed the -misinformed old lady to this site on the Pike, where I trust her -misconstruction of the word or misinformation was amended. - -Having some business in St. Louis in connection with our canteen or -camp exchange which necessitated the carrying of my haversack, I had -left camp for the Olive Street car line, when I noticed a fellow in -hot pursuit who reminded me of a butterfly catcher in a field of -daisies down on the farm. Hailing me, he gasped, “Mail-man, please -stamp these cards and mail them for me;” handing me a half-dollar with -a bunch of post-cards, he continued on his leap-frog gait. “Whoa! come -back here,” I shouted. “Oh, that’s all right; buy yourself some cigars -with the change,” he answered. On mailing them I noticed they were all -addressed to Arkansas; that accounts for it, I said to myself, he must -be one of those Arkansas travellers. - -Not far from our camp was a high spiral tower, on the top of which was -the wireless telegraph exhibit connected by a lift or elevator. “Is -this the scenic railway?” a young lady inquired. “Not yet,” I replied; -“that is the elevated railroad.” She smiled and thanked me very much. -Why, they even went to the Kentucky building to invite Daniel Boone -out for dinner! - -Every day the marine camp was the scene of a constant stream of -visitors, many of whom were in search of friends and relatives. For -more than a year before my departure from the Philippine Islands I had -studiously contemplated serving at this post of duty, and felt assured -of my success, so in consequence had written a number of friends in -various cities of the United States who I knew were anticipating the -pleasures of the greatest show on earth. - -The cool days of early autumn seemed to be the most popular season for -the Eastern and Western visitors; each day groups of friends, -ensconced under the khaki canvas of an A wall tent or seated on -steamer-chairs along the smooth level lawn, joined in social -intercourse with these jolly rovers of land and sea. Tent number 2 was -daily the scene of some festive occasion, the erstwhile pranks of -which were likened unto a scene from the “Rodgers Brothers in Paris.” -On these occasions the author was assisted by his dear friends and -compatriots Boland and Fynmore. - -Before going to St. Louis as pay-clerk of the battalion, I had spent -three years afloat and in the tropics, and during that time had met -but one man from my native town, with the exception of my father, who -visited me in Washington, D. C., prior to our departure, and whose -perplexities in the Executive Mansion on meeting President Roosevelt -were brimful of excellent humor even though the seasoning was of the -ludicrous variety. - -The circumstances attending the meeting of the other man in question -were exceptionally singular. It was late in the autumn of 1902, and I -was stationed in the old “Quartel de Espanol” at Fort San Philippi, -Cavite, P. I. Every evening about sundown, when not on duty, it was my -custom to stroll with a friend or two to a hacienda in the adjacent -“barrio” of San Ruki, where the soft-toned music from a harp and -guitar was artistically rendered by two charming mestizos. At this -native bungalow, shaded by large palms and drooping banana stalks, -gathered nightly the elite of the village, and occasionally señoritas -from the city of Manila, whose predominant beauty, in fluffy kimonos -woven from the fibre of the pineapple with a texture as fine as silk, -was augmented by that indisputable mark of Spanish aristocracy, the -ever-propitious mantilla. By the dim light of a candelabrum which -fluttered in the evening zephyrs, these social gatherings were -regulated with that Oriental quiescence and technique to the manner -born. - -It was while wending my way home in the moonlight from such an -allurement of beauty and music, that I chanced along the Calle Real -and into the Café Del Monte, when I was agreeably surprised to see, -seated at a game of cards, my old shipmate “Jack” Lavery of the -cruiser _New York_. Being clothed in a suit of civic white duck, I was -unrecognized for a moment. “Hello, Jack!” I exclaimed. “Well, Bill! -for God’s sake, where did you come from? I thought you were in China -on board the monitor _Monadnock_?” “No, the application was -disapproved of, so I fired in another for shore duty.” “Well, but you -left us in Shanghai.” “Yes, my application was approved there, I -crossed the sea on the gun-boat _Manila_.” “Well, where are you now?” -“Fort San Philippi.” “Good! Shake hands with some friends of -mine.――Fellows, we’ll have the story about the Moors in Algiers -to-night.――Waiter! take the order; bring in some Egyptians and a new -pinocle deck.” Having been furnished with the order, the cards were -dealt and we made our melds. - -The fourth game was in progress, and, as the cards were being dealt, I -remarked to my partner, whose cuffs had been rolled back, “Corporal, -that dragon represents artistic work; where did you have that done?” -“The dragon was tattooed by an expert on the Queen’s Road in Hong -Kong; these storks I had put on in Kobe, Japan; and the spider’s webb -was worked in at Cairo, by a professional who had the honor of -tattooing his excellency the Khedive of Egypt.” “That is pretty work, -and I see it harmonizes with the blue scar on your wrist; where did -you dig coal?” “Oh, years ago, away back in Pennsylvania, all the way -from slate-picking to working a gangway.” “What part of Pennsylvania, -may I ask?” “Hazleton, Luzerne County.” “Hazleton? Are you from -Hazleton?” “Pretty close to it; my home is in Beaver Brook, a little -mining hamlet about three miles south of the city.” “Great heavens! -ten thousand five hundred miles from home, and here is a native of my -own village,” I soliloquized. “Did you ever know a family in Beaver -Brook named A――――?” “Did I?――for the Lord’s sake, is it possible that -you are young B――――y A――――?” “That’s me, old chap.” “Well! Well! put -her there, old boy. Twenty-two years have passed by since I worked for -your father. I am Johnny Coyle; don’t you remember Jack?” “Well, Jack, -my old school-mate, shake again. Truth is stranger than fiction. -School-mates, ship-mates, landsmen, bandsmen, and marines, come on, -let’s celebrate; press the button, sergeant, and we’ll sing, ‘I’ll -meet you at the hedge where the huckle-berries bloom.’” - -For several days my home city, Hazleton, Pennsylvania, was well -represented at the “Fair,”――a special containing a large concourse of -Sir Knights of the Masonic Fraternity who, accompanied by their wives -and daughters, were homeward bound from San Francisco, where they had -been attending a Masonic conclave. Having the esteemed acquaintance of -nearly every member of the jolly bunch, I was delighted and felt -highly honored with their visit in our camp. In my four years of -travel around the world, these were the first people from home whom I -had met, with the afore-noted exceptions. - -Each day was given to some especial event. Every State in the Union -celebrated on one particular day, the buildings representing the State -being more elaborately decorated for this occasion. This function was -attended by their respective governors and staff, occasionally -accompanied by a troop of horse or infantry. Various branches of -business had their day; there was also theatrical day, automobilist -day, Elk day, and in fact every day during the continuance of the -“Fair” was taken up by some particular branch of business or -profession, the turnstile recording the largest attendance on Chicago -and St. Louis day. - -Theatrical day I had the pleasure of escorting a party of the -profession, whose names in glittering light frequently adorned the -theatres along Forty-second Street and the “Great White Way,” through -the marine camp, the Pike, Cheyenne Joe’s, and later joined in the -merriment at a dinner in the Tyrolean Alps. A quartette of Indian -chiefs occupied a table some distance from ours, among whom was the -famous old Apache warrior Geronimo. On learning that one of the chiefs -was Geronimo, a member of our party, a celebrated singer of coon -songs, expressed a desire to meet him, whereupon I invited the Indians -to join the “Merry Wanderers of the Night.” After the introduction the -old chief made a speech in the Apache tongue; they sang, danced, -chanted, and became quite hilarious; this was not due, however, to the -stimulants of the Tyrolean Alps, for, although the Indians would have -relished a mint julep, they were obliged to indulge in milder -potations. Each chief, before departing, had ardently proposed to the -actress of his choice, who accepted him in the language and manner of -the stage. The wee hours of the morning were gliding by as this jovial -party of merrymakers boarded their “special” of palace sleepers, and -thus ended a round of joy, keen wit, and humor. - -Strong resentment against the conduct of Filipino scouts had been -expressed in different quarters of the “Fair,” and trouble between -these and the white soldiers had been narrowly averted a number of -times. The flirtations between white women of apparent respectability -and the islanders had created adverse criticism. The marines, goaded -by these flirtations and seeing fashionably gowned women on the arms -of Filipinos promenading the Pike, felt that it was more than they -could stand. In consequence a plan of campaign was outlined. One of -the officers said, “I foresaw this situation and gave warning that it -would come about. It is amazing the way white women shower attentions -on the scouts, parading them to their homes and all that sort of -thing.” - -On several occasions marines had interfered when white girls were seen -with the scouts; this usually precipitated a fight, causing bitter -feelings in both camps. The resentment against the brown men, which -continued growing stronger daily, took form when, at about ten o’clock -at night, sixty soldiers of the scout battalion surrounded and -assaulted ten marines, who, after a pitched battle, compelled their -assailants to retreat. The marines returned to camp, and, expecting -trouble, were awaiting reinforcements, when a marine rushed in, -spreading the alarm, that the Filipinos had sought succor at their -camp and that about three hundred were coming down the Pike armed. -Always reckless and ripe for excitement, a marine shouted, “Come on, -boys! let’s clean the Gu Gus off the earth.” This exclamation was -hailed with cheers, and in a few moments more than one hundred marines -were in pursuit of the enemy. Before reaching the Irish village, the -detachment split into two sections, one section covering the north end -of the Pike while the other hurried on to intercept the chocolate -soldiers near Bohemia. On seeing the marines entering the Pike, on the -double, the scouts fled, retreating presumably for a darker section of -the grounds where they could adopt their accustomed mode of fighting. -It was too late, however, for, alas! they were hemmed in, and to the -victor belonged the spoils. The marines charged, a pitched battle -ensued, in which the Filipinos, being in the majority, held their -ground for a short space of time, but soon wilted under the terrific -onslaught of the Americans. - -This scene was laughable in the extreme, and reminded me of a chapter -from “Gulliver’s Travels”; those who had escaped a knockout were glad -to end the struggle. Having retreated toward their camp, they had -arrived in the vicinity of the Agricultural Building, when some of -them drew arms and commenced firing. This enraged the marines to such -an extent that they decided to charge their camp, which precipitated a -clash with the Jeffersonian Guards in which two of the guards were -seriously injured. At this juncture an alarm brought the mounted -police galloping to the scene, who finally restored order, both sides -withdrawing to the peaceful habitations of their camp. - -Washington was apprised of the affair, and the troops were severely -reprimanded; but the lesson taught the scouts had great bearing on -their future attitude toward the Americans. The St. Louis newspapers -depicted the scenes of this riot, and devoted several columns in which -they eulogized the marines for the stand they had taken. - -No military organization could have been treated with more courtesy -than the marine battalion at the St. Louis Exposition, and, when the -day arrived for its departure, it was with reluctance rather than -pleasure that the comfortable tents, the scenes of so much merriment, -had to be vacated for the less desirable quarters in barracks. - -After breaking camp and securing our equipment, we bade the big show a -fond farewell. A long line of street cars conveyed the battalion to -the Union Station, where Pullman sleepers of the “Big Four” draped -with streamers awaited it. The Sixth Infantry band discoursed music as -the soldiers of the sea bade their friends good-by, and, as they -boarded the two sections of the train, the reverberating strains of -“Maryland, my Maryland” were received with vociferous applause by the -multitude that crowded the station platform. As the hand rendered the -old war-songs “Yankee Doodle” and “Dixie,” so sacred to the North and -the South, the train rolled off for the quaint little city of -Annapolis, the capital of Maryland. - -The marine barrack at Annapolis is the finest military post in the -United States. On our arrival in the city, the battalion was met by -the marine band, and escorted to the quarters, where an especially -arranged dinner lay in waiting. - -The following day, orders were received for the battalion to proceed -to Washington, D. C., to participate in the unveiling of a monument to -“Frederick the Great,” presented to the United States by Germany. This -was the last procession in which the St. Louis battalion was seen -intact. - -Shortly after our return to Annapolis, an order was received from -marine headquarters, detailing all men having two years or more to -serve, on the Panama expedition. Having less than one year to serve to -complete my enlistment, I was ordered to duty at the United States -Naval Academy, until the expiration of my enlistment. - - - - - XII. - - Topographical Survey in Northern Luzon - - The Friars’ Monastery――Headquarters of the Insurgent Aguinaldo――In - Charge of the Cargadores――Meeting with Albinos――Among the Igorrote - Head-hunters――Enamored with a Beautiful Señorita――Planting Rice to - Music――A Midnight Ride Through the Jungle――A Moonlight - Fiesta――Quartered in a Cholera Infected Hacienda――The Jungle――The - Rainy Season――Return to Civilization. - - -In the summer of 1908 while stationed at Ft. William McKinley, a -military post in the Philippines, I was detailed from brigade -headquarters for topographical survey on the Island of Luzon. This -assignment was more than welcomed as a departure from the monotonous -routine of guard duty, wearisome marches, and military manœuvres. I -was instructed to report to First Lieutenant Kenyon A. Joyce of the -Thirteenth Cavalry, whose headquarters were in an old Spanish -monastery in the small nippa-shack village of Lolomboy, near the -“barrio” of Bocaue, situated along the Manila and Dagupán Railroad -between Manila and Baguio, the famous Philippines health resort. - -Hastily gathering together my necessary field equipment with -transportation and orders, I departed for my destination with a -feeling akin to that of the small boy on his first excursion from -home. Alighting from the street car on the escolta near the old bridge -of Spain, I purchased some periodicals and a large sombrero, then, -engaging a caramato, was driven to the Tondo station, where I boarded -a first-class coach for Bocaue. - -After a wearisome ride through stifling humidity, over rice-dikes and -through jungle, I arrived at my post of duty and immediately reported -to the commanding officer of the detachment, after which I divested -myself of my accoutrements and met the members of the survey party, -consisting of about twenty-four soldiers, representing every branch of -the United States army. - -This aged edifice, with its mysterious subterranean vaults, its -columns of Tuscan and Doric origin, and surrounded by balconies -encompassed with ornamental balustrades, was occupied by the soldiers -and used as headquarters by the topographical ensemble. - -Prior to the Spanish-American war, this building had been a sanctuary -of worship, the abode of mendicant friars. At the time of the -insurrection, the old monastery was occupied as headquarters by -General Aguinaldo, until compelled to relinquish his stronghold by the -American troops. - -Expert Filipino draughtsmen were employed in the plottings of the -survey, their work in delineating offsets being admirably executed. - -The circuitous route our journey necessitated through mountains, -jungle, and across innumerable streams and ravines made it impossible -to use ponies or caribou in the conveyance of our provisions, so that -a contingent of native cargadores were employed in drawing a native -cartello, which carried not only the provisions, but also the camp -equipage, including our cooking utensils. - -The entire party was divided into three sections, each section -comprising one commissioned officer, eight enlisted men, and four -brawny cargadores who handled the native cart or cartello. Each -section had a separate circuit on which to work, these circuits -penetrating jungle and mountainous country hitherto unexplored by the -military. Provisions for two weeks were usually carried, the length of -time it required in covering our territory. - -My first duty in connection with this survey was recording the -readings of the transit, operated by the officer in charge. Our route -led through the “barrios” of Marilao, Santa Maria, Tomano, Buena -Vista, San Jose, Bagbaguen, Prensa, and Santa Cruz, in the province of -Bulacan. The heat endured on these expeditions was intense, especially -along the rice-dikes, which were barren of foliage. Occasionally, when -in the vicinity of a barrio where we had but one night to remain, -instead of spreading canvas we bivouacked under the roof of some -convenient casa. On one occasion, having worked until sundown, our -cartello was drawn alongside of an old native house of worship, in the -barrio of Buena Vista, where a “fiesta” had been in progress for -several days. Here, under the eaves of this sacred shrine, this -soldier outfit dined “A la cartello.” - -In the interior of this sanctuary, the flickering lights in a large -candelabrum, at the base of the crucifix, shone dimly through the -gloom. With a feeling of absolute safety, the soldiers spread their -ponchos over the bamboo matting and, wrapped in blankets, reposed in -peaceful slumber. There was nothing to disturb the tranquillity of -this night until, shortly before the break of dawn, we were aroused by -the tolling of the bells, and the chanting of the Ave Maria, uttered -in solemn devotion by a long procession of natives garbed in -ceremonious black, preceded by a señorita bearing a cross, flanked on -either side by torch-bearers. As the procession moved slowly down the -aisle, the soldiers arose from their unusual berth and, occupying -seats, observed the ceremonies with respectful silence. These natives -were the thoroughbred Tagalogs, the aborigines of the Philippines, the -greater number of them being converts to Roman Catholicism, the -balance adhering to the doctrines of the Reformation, or the -Protestant religion. - -Leaving Buena Vista, our route led through the beautiful Marquina -Valley, with its immense forests of bamboo, ebony, sapan-wood, and -gum-trees entwined by the bush-rope of palasan, trees teeming with the -luscious mango and guava, bordering on plantations and groves of the -vegetable kingdom, including the banana, plantain, sugarcane, -pineapple, coffee, cinnamon, and tobacco. - -From Marquina our course led into the dense forest of the San Madre -Mountains. Before leaving the valley, I was detailed to handle the -cargadores. This party in itself was a comedy; the only things they -thought seriously of were cigarettes, salmon, and rice. I gave each of -them a sobriquet,――namely, “Blinky,” Pedro, Carlo, and Pablo de -Gusman. Blinky, a one-eyed dusky savage, was the hero of the drama; -when he wanted anything, he would pat me on the arm and exclaim, “El -capitan, mucho bueno,” and in the same breath, “Dalle mi cigarillo.” -He would then wink at the others. Blinky was familiar with the lay of -the land, and was a valuable assistant when it came to questions of -emergency, such as getting the cartello across a stream or a deep -ravine. It was sometimes necessary in crossing a river, to unload our -cargo and ship it across in a binto, a boat similar to a canoe, then -float the vehicle across the best way we could. - -Having been detained rather late one evening in a barrio where I had -been exchanging rice, bacon, and salmon, for chickens, eggs, and -vegetables, I could have made my objective point before sundown had -not something unforeseen occurred; we had reached an unexpected ravine -or gorge through which a torrent of water gushed; here we found it -necessary to cut two bamboo trees on which to slide the cartello -across on its hubs. We were having excellent success when the hubs -slipped off, dumping our cargo into the stream and Pablo de Gusman -with it. Luckily the native grabbed the wheel of the cart and was -saved. A rope attached to the front of the cartello was the means of -our saving the greater part of the rations; but we were in a sorrowful -plight, it being impossible to drag such a load up the precipitous -slopes. We found it necessary to pack the cargo up piece by piece. The -scene was laughable in the extreme: Blinky looked as though he had -been sentenced to be shot, while the singsong chorus of native lingo, -like the buzzing rabble of Italian emigrants, combined with reaching -the site of our camp in the darkness, completed my baleful imbroglio. -Let it suffice to say: an impatient mapping detail awaited our -arrival. - -The country through which we passed was one of tropical grandeur; -monkeys, wild-boar, and parrots were frequently seen along the -mountain ranges. At night it was interesting to watch the vampires -darting hither and thither over mango-trees, nipping the delicious -mangos, sometimes carrying them to their roosts for their young. These -vampires resemble a bat, though much larger; the body is about the -size of a kitten, the wings measuring when fully developed six feet -from tip to tip. - -Albinos are frequently met with in northern Luzon; on one occasion, -strange to relate, we came in contact with a small colony of this type -of people, unrelated, however, as the albino is a freak of nature -possessing no inherency. They were reluctant to converse, contenting -themselves with looking on, as they shielded their pink eyes from the -rays of the sun with a fan of the palm-leaf. The interest we Americans -manifested in these people seemed greatly to amuse the Filipinos. - -The Igorrote head-hunters are a wild tribe inhabiting the northern -provinces. Their features are large, with kinky hair, large teeth, and -black complexions. They are far below the other tribes in intellect -and intelligence. The appellation “head-hunter” has its significance -in the fact that the head of the enemy is taken as a relic, similar to -the custom of the American Indian in scalping his victim. We watched -these barbarians killing dogs for market, saw them making grasshopper -pies, and, to our disgust, they ate eggs with chickens in them. Eggs -containing chickens were worth double the price of fresh eggs. - -It was a great pleasure to return to our headquarters in the old -monastery, where wholesome food and cool shower-baths could be had. -The evenings at this domicile were always enjoyably spent, either at -cards, reading, or music. Occasionally, Sebastian Gomez, an old -Filipino, would bring his two granddaughters to the quarters; these -were fairly good-looking señoritas and excellent musicians, the one -playing the harp while the other played the accordion, accompanied by -the old man with a guitar. Very often a deputy revenue collector, who -spent considerable time with us, would join this trio with a violin, -and these instruments combined rendered excellent music. - -Occasionally my work consisted in planting signal-flags on points of -vantage, where they could be seen through the telescope of a transit. -It was incidental to one of these trips that Kane, of the Engineer -Corps, and myself, while driving through a remote barrio, came in -contact with the beautiful Señorita Carmen Lemaire. In my travels I -had encountered many odd freaks of nature, leaving me not overly -susceptible to surprise; on this occasion, however, the unique -circumstance attending the incident created little less than -astonishment. The fact that to hear the Anglo-American tongue spoken -by natives even in Manila was a rarity seldom enjoyed, made this event -the more surprising. - -We had left headquarters at Lolomboy in the early morning, with a pony -hitched to a cartello containing the signal-flags, tent equipage, and -rations for three days. Crossing the ferry at Bocaue, we struck a -northerly route running west of Malolos, the old Filipino capital. We -had covered a number of miles over a dusty road and through sweltering -heat, when a quaint little barrio shaded by cocoa and palm trees on -the banks of the Cianti River was reached. As the pony jogged along -through the heart of the village, turning out occasionally for the -little pickaninnies who played in the street, my eyes fell on -something unusual for this section of the world,――an exceptionally -beautiful señorita, apparently a mestizo of European extraction, -presiding over a fruit-stand in front of a large hacienda, from which -exhaled the sweet odor of grated-cocoanut boiling in the syrup of the -sugarcane. - -“Kane, did you see that?” I asked. “Yes, some class; I wonder where -that complexion came from,” he replied. “Let’s try and find out,” I -said. - -It was about the hour for the Filipino siesta and time for “tiffin”; -so, drawing under the shade of a large mango tree, we tied and fed the -pony, and I informed the engineer that I was going to buy some eggs. -“Let me buy them,” said Kane, smilingly. - -Approaching the hacienda, I saw standing under the eaves, with the -grace of a Wanamaker cloak-model and the beauty of the allegorical -Psyche, a Filipino señorita still in her ’teens, whose raven tresses -would have been the envy of the “Sutherland sisters.” “Buenos dios, -señorita,” I ventured. “Buenos dios,” she replied. “Tiene weibus?” -(Tagalog for “Have you eggs?”). “Si, señor,” she replied. Kane, whose -knowledge of the dialects was limited, appearing on the scene, said, -“How do you do?” “Quite well, thank you; how are you?” she said. -“Better,” said Kane, smiling in expressive surprise. At first I -thought it an apparition with a voice; to hear good old United States -spoken in a feminine voice, after being inflicted for months with the -pigeon English of Chinese and the smattering cackle of the natives was -almost too good to be true. - -“Are you soldiers the advance-guard of a regiment, or merely out for a -joy ride?” she inquired, showing two rows of pearly teeth through an -inquisitive smile. “Joy ride is right, with room for six,” replied -Kane. Here my curiosity led me to inquire as to how this illustrious -personage had acquired such fluency in the English language. Whereupon -she informed me that she had been educated at the University of Manila -and was a school-teacher home on vacation. - -Having purchased some eggs, she further attracted our attention by -volunteering to fry them, and asking if we desired the albumen -scrambled with the yolk. Her complexion was a study, for, although her -hair and eyes were of raven black, her color was fair, with features -resembling the Louisiana Creole. She set a very dainty repast, -consisting of rice, fish, eggs, and fried plantains, and, suffice to -say, we three――Kane, the pony, and myself――were exceedingly happy; the -pony because he had reached the end of his journey, for there were no -flags put up that day. - -Before our departure we exchanged addresses; I found her name to be -Carmen Lemaire, which further increased my curiosity. Having asked -permission to pay her a visit some evening in the future she informed -me that it would afford her much pleasure to have me call, but that -several natives were very jealous of her, including a cousin whose -ire, if aroused by my calling after sundown, might jeopardize my life; -therefore any other than an impromptu daylight visit would be -imprudent for her to approve. Assuring the señorita a little -boastfully of my utter disregard for the marksmanship of her suitors, -of my utmost confidence in fate, and my inability to call during the -day she set an evening in the following week for me to see her. - -Bidding adieu, we left this hacienda with its fair inhabitant, and -journeyed on our route. The following day the pony had to go some to -make up for lost time, and it required the best part of three days to -complete the work. Our return trip was the longest way round, but not -the sweetest way home. - -On our return to Lolomboy we told the story of having met the -beautiful señorita. The old Filipino Sebastian knew of her, and told -us she had been selected to act as queen of the “Grande Fiesta” at the -Manila Carnival. - -The following Thursday evening before sundown, “knighthood was in -flower.” Having selected and placed some choice literature in my -saddle-bags, I mounted a pony and galloped off for the scene of my -triumph with the visage of the charming Carmen before me. - -The iridescent hues of the vanishing sun tinted the western horizon, -as I reined my pony into a verdant trail, winding with the course of -the river, almost hidden from view by the high grass that lined the -trail on either side. The moon at its full shone through the cocoanuts -hanging in clusters from the tall trees, as I dismounted at the -Lemaire hacienda in the barrio of Montao. A Filipino patrol passing by -took charge of the pony, thereby relieving my mind of the fear of its -being stolen by ladrones, who lurk in the mountain districts of Luzon. - -On entering the large bamboo casa, with its nippa eaves extending -beyond the walls, I was met by the affable Carmen, and conducted to a -cosey retreat, in the manner and customs of the Philippines, After -meeting her mother, a very retiring Filipino lady. I presented the -señorita with the periodicals, which included the San Francisco Sunset -Magazine, containing my picture taken at Salt Lake City when a soldier -in a machine-gun battery. Her beauty on this occasion was augmented by -a pretty silken kimono and straw sandals, characteristically simple. -In her hair she wore a pink carnation, which vied in beautiful -contrast with her complexion. A gold necklace with pendant attached -and a finger-ring of turquoise and diamonds completed her attire. - -Side by side on the wall hung two large pictures,――one the martyred -patriot Jose Rizal, the other the ex-Governor-General of the -Philippines, now our President, William H. Taft. On the opposite wall -hung the señorita’s much-cherished diploma from the University of -Manila and a certificate of belles-lettres. Books were shelved in -galore. An East Indian matting covered the bamboo floors, while the -sleeping compartments were hidden from view by large portières. -Various articles of interest were shown to me, including photographs, -a prayer-book printed in Spain in the sixteenth century, and the -bridal-veil worn by her mother on her wedding morn. - -During the evening the son of the presidente of the village, -accompanied by his sweetheart, a pleasing young couple, called at the -hacienda. Being unable to hold an intelligent conversation with these -guests, our conversazione was one of ignorance crasse. The elder -Señora Lemaire, - - [Illustration: - CHIEF ADAMS GUN MULE DEWEY AID COLEMAN] - -Carmen’s mother, served the guests with limeade and charlotte-russe, -which were delectable and refreshing. - -After the couple had departed, I related several stories of the United -States to this amiable señorita. I told of my home away off in -Pennsylvania, my school days, friends, escapades, the war, my travels, -and incidentally mentioned the resemblance she bore the Creoles of New -Orleans, among whom I had spent a winter; being careful to impress on -her mind, that the Creole is of Spanish and French descent, not negro, -as some educated people suppose. She listened very attentively to my -stories, occasionally asking questions, particularly regarding the -Creoles. - -The anecdotes of her college days were more than interesting, as were -the stories she told about the insurrection. She was very familiar -with the history of the war, from the blowing up of the _Maine_ to the -battle of the “crater” in the Sulu. - -“Lemaire is a very uncommon name in the Philippines, is it not?” I -remarked. “Yes,” she sighed, “very uncommon.” Realizing the interest I -took in her, and the eagerness I possessed to hear some of her life’s -history she continued: - -“About twenty years ago a party of European surveyors employed by the -Manila and Dagupán Railroad, in surveying this section of my country, -were stationed at Malolos, my former home. In the course of human -events, one of the party――namely, Armand Lemaire――became enamoured -with and courted my mother, with whom he was eventually joined in holy -wedlock. Of this union I am the fruition. At the expiration of my -father’s duties in the Philippines, he was ordered to India, where, -falling a victim, he succumbed to the plague.” Reaching into the -drawer of an escritoire, she drew forth the picture of a man, whose -intelligent features clearly indicated the ancestry of this charming -young woman. - -Continuing, she said: “My mother, on receiving notice of my father’s -death, took up her residence on this plantation, provided before his -departure for India, and here she has lived ever since in pensive -quietude, never fully recovering from the effects of her dire -misfortune.” - - [Illustration: MACHINE GUN PLATOON OF THE 29TH INFANTRY IN THE SNOW - CAPPED WASATCH RANGE, UTAH.] - -There was something unusually pathetic in this sincere girl’s story, -and my conjecture, as I gazed on her mother’s bridal-veil, had found a -sequel. With the assurance of my utmost sympathy, the conversation -switched on to other topics. Glancing at my watch the hands indicated -midnight, and I had told the patrol to be on hand with my pony at -eleven o’clock. - -Glancing over the balustrade, Carmen inquired, “Donde cabalyo?” The -patrol had arrived with the pony as if by magic. - -As I bade Carmen Lemaire a fond adieu, she again admonished me as to -the possible violence of her jealous suitors. “Keep on the alert and -take no chances,” she said. - -After tipping the patrol a two-peso note, I mounted my pony, and -wafting a “buenos-notches” galloped off in the pale moonlight, -sincerely wishing some dusky rival would take a shot at me, that I -might demonstrate “the survival of the fittest.” - -My ride through the jungle in lonely contemplation was uneventful -until the barrio of Bocaue was reached. Here I found a barrier in the -shape of a river. I had failed to take into consideration that the -ferry ceased running at midnight. The ferry, a flat-bottomed scow -capable of carrying about fifty people, was moored on the opposite -side of the river and no one there to man it. I had my choice of two -things,――namely, swim the current or wait until dawn. Having placed a -photograph along with some other valuables in the band of my sombrero, -I reined my pony to the brink, and was about to plunge when I saw -looming on the opposite shore the figure of a police patrol. - -In imitation of the semaphore system, I wig-wagged the Filipino, and -with a hoarse voice in bad Spanish impressed on his mind the necessity -of my getting across. Having a passing acquaintance with the municipal -officer, he recognized me, and propelled the boat across himself by -means of a cable, the river being about one hundred yards wide at this -point. On reaching the other side, the patrol was as much pleased in -making a little side money as I was delighted in getting across. It -was not long before I had stabled my pony and sought peaceful repose -in my Helen Gould cot in the old monastery. - -A few days later I set out with the cargadores on a new circuit. A -very odd scene we encountered on this trip in the province of -Pangasinán was a skirmish line of Filipinos transplanting rice to -music. The rice paddies, or dikes, resembled level meadow-land and -stretched out as far as the eye could discern in every direction. -About one thousand Filipinos, men and women dressed in loud colors, -were engaged in this work. Their formation was in the shape of a -skirmish line, with a deploy of about two feet; each planter was -covered in rear by another who passed the rice plants as the supply -became exhausted; a short distance in rear of all were bands of music -with intervals of one hundred yards. Large sun-shades, with long spike -handles stuck in the soil, afforded considerable shade for the -musicians. As the music from these bamboo instruments resounded o’er -the meadows, each planter moved forward one step, at the same time -placing a rice shoot in the soil, with the utmost uniformity and in -absolute harmony with the band. - -This was one of the most interesting sights I have ever seen; the -progress these natives made was wonderful; besides, each seemed to be -getting a great deal of enjoyment out of life. It reminded me of -calisthenics in the navy, where they execute the movements of their -exercise to the strains of a familiar march. - -It was nearly time for the rainy season, and we were making our last -circuit. Cholera was prevalent throughout the Island of Luzon, and in -many instances smallpox had been reported. A “Division” order made it -a court-martial offence for any soldier in the jungle to drink water -that had not been boiled. This order, however, was not very -stringently adhered to. Reports of deaths from cholera were received -daily, in many instances soldiers being the victims. Whenever we found -it convenient to boil water we did, but never went thirsty waiting for -boiled water. - -About three o’clock one scorching afternoon we struck a trail in a -remote section of the San Madre Mountains which indicated that -cartellos drawn by caribous made daily trips over this road. While -resting at this point, the day suddenly grew dark and it became -perceptible to us all that a typhoon was approaching. The lieutenant -in command of the party, being a recent graduate of West Point and -having had little experience in the field, was slow to comprehend what -might be the consequence if a raging typhoon was to encompass this -party in the jungle. - -I suggested to him that we select a place at once and spread canvas. -To this he acquiesced, and ordered me to take a Filipino and follow -the trail until I reached a place of shelter suitable for the pitching -of a camp. With one of my cargadores, “Blinky” (with whom I had just -had a scrap for paring potatoes with a bolo), I hit the trail, and had -covered about one mile when my eyes fell on a bamboo shack which -appeared to be unoccupied. On investigation I found it to be an -unusually fine casa for this mountain district. I found earthenware -olios filled with water, dry wood, and a stone grate, but no sign of -any occupants. Tearing a leaf from my note-book, I informed the -lieutenant of our good fortune in having shelter from the typhoon -without the necessity of pitching tents, dispatched “Blinky” with the -message, and ere long the cartello and party had arrived. - -A fire having been made, the coffee was put on to boil, the natives -pared the potatoes, while I sliced the bacon and opened several cans -of corn and salmon. The salmon was served to the Filipinos with rice. -After a hearty supper by candle-light, cigarettes were smoked, -blankets spread on the bamboo floor, and we all stretched out for a -good night’s sleep. - -The advance guard of the typhoon had arrived; a terrific wind, which -whistled through the palms and nippa-roof, threatened at times to -carry our shack away. Deep peals of thunder reverberated from the -aerial regions, while dangerous flashes of blazoned lightning tore -through the celestial firmament. “A nice night for a murder,” remarked -Corporal “Free,” of the Sixth Cavalry. There was little sleep that -night, which was evidenced in the morning by the numerous sacks of -“Bull Durham” that lay scattered on the floor. - -The storm continued throughout the following day, abating on toward -midnight. The following morning deep gullies were worn in the soil, -streams were flooded, while the drooping palms presented a scene of -picturesque desolation. Overhead the fleecy clouds hovered round the -blazing sun which cast its rays through the spice-laden atmosphere. - -Having walked some distance from the hacienda, I heard off in the -mountains that familiar guttural accent of a cochero driving a -caribou; I listened, and he gradually grew closer. On his arrival I -found him to be a Filipino with a load of sugarcane and bananas, _en -route_ to Malolos. Being curious to know why this substantial home was -unoccupied, I inquired in Spanish from this man, who informed me, with -great stress, that no natives could be induced to live here, as the -entire family, the occupants, had fallen victims to the dreaded -cholera. Well, right here I felt as though I was on my journey across -the river Styx. Shortly after, on meeting the lieutenant, I said to -him, “Lieutenant, has it not aroused your curiosity as to why this -house is unoccupied?” “Why, yes, it seems strange,” he replied. “Well, -I will enlighten you a bit,” said I. Then I told him the story the -cochero had told me. I once saw a man sentenced to be shot, and, if -looks count, his feelings and those of the officer were identical. He -thought it wise to move in the direction of the monastery; but I -informed him that there was no need to worry; that, if we had suffered -contamination, it would have been all over long before this, as there -is no delay in the operation of an Asiatic-cholera germ. On learning -this he was greatly relieved; so we shoved off and completed our -circuit. However, some of the party were pretty uneasy; they had drunk -unboiled water from the olios. “Furthermore deponent saith not.” - -We returned to headquarters just in time to escape the rainy season. -Here we spent weeks in idleness, playing cards, reading, and -occasionally I would run up to Malolos by rail, then engage a caromato -to convey me to Montao to see Carmen Lemaire. Sometimes the river was -so swollen by the torrents of rain that it was impossible to get -across. Naturally, life became rather monotonous, and upon request I -was relieved and returned to duty with my regiment, back to -civilization and the lights and music of the Luneta. This engaging -mestizo señorita visited Manila a number of times before my departure -for the States, and, although the honor of “queen of the carnival” -fell to the lot of an older mestizo, the charming presence of Carmen -Lemaire on this occasion brooked no competition, for beauty, grace, or -intelligence. - -Rudyard Kipling, whose “Barrack-ballads” are favorites in the army and -navy, describes in mililoquent tones incidents appertaining to the -“Far East,” in “On the Road to Mandalay,” from which I quote: - - When the mist was on the rice-fields, and the sun was droopin’ low, - She’d get her little banjo and she’d sing the coola la lo. - With her arm upon my shoulder, and her cheek against my cheek - We used to watch the hathis, and the elephants pilen teak; - Elephants a pilen teak in the smudgy sludgy creek, - Where the silence hung so heavy, you was half afraid to speak. - On the road to Mandalay, where the flyin’ fishes play, - And the dawn comes up like thunder out a China ’cross the bay. - -The last occasion on which I saw her was on the eve of my departure -for the United States. In a “victoria” accompanied by two University -classmates, she called at my quarters in Ft. William McKinley, where I -joined them for a ride to the haunts of my old marine days, in the -village of San Ruki, near Cavite. Among old friends and the -ever-predominant harp and guitar, I enjoyed the fascinations of their -quaint moonlight “fiesta.” - -The drive homeward to Manila under the shades of night, through the -“barrios” of Bacoor, Paranacque, and Pasay, with the wavelets of the -sombre bay breaking on the sandy beach, was one of imposing grandeur -that will ever remain vivid when my mind reverts to tropical -sublimity. - -At a dinner party on the roof-garden of the Hotel “Oriente” this -night, I bade Señorita Lemaire farewell. - - - - - XIII. - - Cock-Fighting, the National Sport of the Philippines - - Training of the Birds――Mains by Electric Light――Aristocracy Patrons - of the Arena――Chinese “Book-makers”――Filipino Touts――Flower - Girls――The “Pit”――The Strike of the Game Birds――The Crucial - Moment――Game to the Last――Honest Sport. - - -The national sport of the natives of the Philippine Islands is -cock-fighting. From infancy the Filipino takes to this line of sport, -as a duck takes to water, and he early acquires the art of heeling and -training the bird which is sooner or later to increase his wealth or -perhaps send him back to the drudgery of the rice-fields, where he -must eke out an existence and little by little accumulate sufficient -to back another favorite chanticleer in his efforts to recover from -his sorrowful state of depression, as a Filipino will bet all on his -favorite game-bird. - -The enthusiasm these people manifest around the pit during a main is -akin to that of the Spaniards and Mexicans during a bull-fight. For -weeks before a battle the bird is dieted, his claws and beak are -manicured, feathers cropped, and plume trimmed. Its weight requires -either increasing or diminishing, as the case may be, and it is -handled with the care of the tots in a baby incubator. - -Every village or barrio in the Philippines has its cockpit, the most -pretentious of these being found in the villages of Caloocán and San -Pedro Macati, surrounding the city of Manila. Here, in a large -well-ventilated arena, can be found gathered together night after -night, not only a motley crowd of peasants from the rice-fields of the -interior, but the up-to-date business people of the “Escolta” and the -aristocracy of the old walled city, whose gorgeous victorias before -sundown roll gracefully along the Luneta, to the music of the -Constabulary Band. These mains are conducted under the glare of -electricity with the same success as by the light of day. Chinese, who -are born gamblers, occupy a large percentage of the space given for -seating capacity; these people very methodically run a book in which -odds are given on certain birds before they appear to the public gaze. -They are quartered together and gamble only among themselves. There is -also the house “book-maker,” who takes all bets but places no odds. -The small fry, or the Filipinos whose pesos and pesetas are limited, -bet among themselves, either man holding the stakes. - -The pests of the American race-track known as touts and rail-birds are -also in evidence here. One of these will approach you asking which is -your favorite bird, invariably telling you he has a sure thing and -that to bet any other way would be “mucho malo.” You bet on his -advice, and he leaves you, meets another easy mark, and tells him to -bet just the opposite to the way he advised you. This fellow is a sure -winner, as one of the birds must win and his nightly rake-off is a -stout roll. - -The price of admission is una peseta, or ten cents (gold). Near the -entrance to the “pit” is a bamboo stand where cigars, cigarettes, and -ice-cold bottles of San Miguel’s salvaeso are sold. Flower-girls are -everywhere in evidence, with their trays of palm-leaf fans, wreaths, -and fragrant nosegays. An old Filipino woman chewing betel-nut and -smoking a black cigar struts around selling cocoanut candy, the very -appearance of which is enough to spread the cholera. - -As the time approaches for the main, an old bald-headed veteran of the -cocking main enters the screened pit, which is about the size of a -“Marquis of Queensberry” prize-ring, and announces the beginning of -the evening’s performance; he is loudly cheered by the gamesters of -the arena. This is followed by the entrance of the owners with their -birds. - -The noise, which up to this time has been violent, here breaks into a -paroxysm of tumultuous disorder. Each spectator is yelling for his -favorite bird, which he designates by its color; this singsong -chatter, being a jumble of the Spanish, Tagalog, and Chinese tongues, -runs like this: Color row, color row, blanco, Ki tim chung a wong, -blanco, blanco, Ki tim chung a wong, negro, negro, negro, focho, color -row, blanco, Ki tim chung a wong. This is grand music for mutes and -boiler-makers! The spurs, unlike the sharp-pointed gaff’s used on -American game-cocks, are small steel blades shaped like a razor and -honed to an extreme degree of keenness. After the spurs are fastened -on and each Filipino is satisfied with the ire of his bird, they are -pitted, the owners leave the pit, and the battle is waged; not in -accordance with Dr. Clark’s rules of the United States, however, as -cock-fighting was in vogue in the Philippines for ages before the -discovery of America. - -As the battle is waged, each bird seems conscious of the dire effects -of the fatal blade of its adversary; they strut, crouch, and spar, -each with eyes intent on the slightest move of the other. “Mucho bueno -combati este negro,” shouts the Filipino as the red fowl narrowly -escapes a lunge from the spur of the black. “Negro, negro, buena negro -minok,” shout the backers of the black fowl, which, unlike in the case -of the opponents in a prize-fight, the applause tends to intimidate, -rather than inspire courage in the feathery tribe. “Spearo poco -tiempo,” exclaims the red fowl’s admirer. “Caramba spearo,” cries the -follower of the black with vehemence; “poco tiempo, este negro, murto -este outro minok, tiene mucho jinero fora compra chow fora pickinniny, -no mas traubaho.” This mixture of Igorrote and Tagalog translated -means, “There will be a hot time in one nippa shack if the black bird -wins.” - -“Aha!” is uttered in crescendo. They have struck; feathers fly over -the pit, and blood flows from the red fowl; they strike again, the red -bird limps, and is seen to run, followed by the black, which is -bleeding profusely from a gash hidden by its feathers; this brings -forth tremendous cheers, which, however, die down as the crucial -moment is observed. “Can it come back?” Both are weakening; the red -game turns, with that blind spontaneity and instinct animated by fear; -they crouch and strike together; a spur has reached the vital spot; -the black swoons, its vital functions have ceased, and the battle is -at an end. As the red fowl is proclaimed the winner, it is seen to -sink, game to the last second; with its life it has paid the price of -the victory. - -“They are dead game chickens,” remarks a soldier as they are carried -from the pit. Bets are now paid off, and the pit is sprinkled with -fresh sand, new wagers are laid, and the main continues. - -Cock-fighting in the Philippines is honest sport; there is no such -thing as throwing the game as in a prize-fight, or pulling a horse as -in racing. The fowls are usually so evenly matched that there is -little of advantage in either one, from which to choose a preference, -the book-makers in almost every case relying on their good fortune. - -These mains are the most popular sport in the islands, and, in -consequence of the honest methods of the promoters in conducting them, -have been carried on for ages without cessation or municipal -interference, such as is sometimes waged against bull-fighting, -horse-racing, and prize-fighting in other countries. - -The very atmosphere of the Philippines attracts you to these large -nippa and bamboo arenas, and it seems you involuntarily follow the -procession here as you would the race-track following in New Orleans -or the daily crowd that gather to witness “Cuban pelota” in Havana. It -is the antique axiom exemplified: “When in Rome do as the Romans do.” - - - - - XIV. - - Departure of the 29th Infantry from the Philippines - - Brigade Headquarters, Ft. Wm. McKinley――Afloat on the Pásig - River――Quarantine at Mariveles――Liberty in Japan――Across the - Pacific――Reception in Honolulu――Greetings in “Frisco”――Via Santa - Fé to Governor’s Island. - - -It was midday in August, 1909, when the long chain of cascoes and -steam-launches loaded with the three battalions and band of the -Twenty-ninth Infantry swung into the rapids of the Pásig River to the -strains of that dear old Southern melody, “My Old Kentucky Home,” -leaving, as we floated with the current, many a heart-broken “mestizo” -with her bandanna soaked in tears, wafting adieu to her “Americano -soldado,” with whom she had had her last glide in the dance-halls of -Guadeloupe. After a campaign of two years in a brigade post under the -burning sun of the tropics, the course of our homeward-bound journey -had begun on the historical old Pásig River, which, could it voice its -history, might tell many a weird tale of adventure and bloody -struggle. - -The military rendezvous and scene of our departure was Fort William -McKinley, situated on a plateau near the Pásig and Tagigue Rivers, -overlooking the broad bay and city of Manila on the west, and the -beautiful lake in the district of Laguna de Bay on the east. In close -proximity was a branch line of the Manila and Dagupán Railroad, -connecting the provincial territory between Manila and the village of -Antipolo. In addition to the steam-train, a trolley system covered the -government reservation, terminating in the barrio of Pásig. - -At this post, brigade headquarters, the troops were housed in bungalow -barracks, consisting of the Tenth United States Cavalry (colored), -whose gallantry in Cuba in 1898 forever perpetuated the name of this -courageous regiment of horse; the Twenty-ninth and Thirtieth regiments -of infantry, the last additions to the infantry branch of the line; a -battalion of engineers; numerous batteries of held artillery; and a -large detachment of the hospital corps completed the strength of the -brigade, which was under the command of Brigadier-General Pershing. - -The Twenty-ninth Infantry, in command of Colonel H. K. Bailey, -occupied the quarters in the southeast section of the post and nearest -to the rifle-range. Each company was quartered separately, in barracks -identical with those of the British army in India. These quarters were -spacious two-story buildings with large apertures through which the -cool currents of air from the China Sea fanned in gentle breeze. - -Excellent shower-baths and a laundry, presided over by two Chinese, -were valuable adjuncts that contributed to the accommodations of the -men. Each morning on awakening, the soldier found, arranged in -uniformity under his cot, his several pairs of garrison russet, -gymnasium, light marching order, and civilian shoes, polished to a -high degree of excellency; placed there by the “Oriental knights of -the zapatos,” two native boot-blacks, employed by the company, and -whose duty it was to have every shoe polished before reveille and the -sound of the morning gun. - -The amusement-hall contained a well-stocked library of the most -popular editions, a billiard-table, and a phonograph, so that the -rainy season was seldom unwelcomed by the soldier. - -Large verandas shaded by clinging vines surrounded these bungalows, -and in the evening, when not perambulating with the procession through -the health-giving ozone of the Luneta or cajoling the birds at a -favorite cockpit, it was a pleasure to lounge in a sedan chair with a -mild Manila perfecto, and listen to the entrancing excerpts from some -favorite opera, as beautifully rendered by the Twenty-ninth Infantry -band. - -Fort McKinley is separated from Manila along the riverside “speedway” -by seven miles of macadamized road, over which during the dry season -vehicles of all descriptions roll, from the two-wheeled caromato to -the high-power limousine. This famous driveway is the “Ormond Beach” -of the “Far East,” rivalling in climate and surpassing in beauty the -celebrated winter resort of southern Florida. A moonlight ride along -this magnificent boulevard is a scene never to be forgotten. On -leaving the nippa-roofed bamboo shacks in the barrio of Guadeloupe, -you light a cigarette and recline in luxurious ease on the cushions of -your rubber-tired “victoria,” drawn by a pair of sleek Australian -ponies, their languid movement being in keeping with the wishes of the -“cochero,” who regulates his fee by the time consumed in conveyance. -The witchery or charm of your entire surroundings is preternatural. -The phosphorous ripples of the swift-flowing Pásig on one side seem to -emulate the scintillation of the star-bespangled firmament, while, in -rivalling contrast on the other, the glow-worm and fire-fly in -sheltering palms and over dewy landscape, like the ignis fatuus, seem -to mock the luminous glow of the moon. - -As the old Santa Anna Cathedral, with its vine-clad balustrades -falling to decay, appears in the scene, looming in magnetic amplitude -over the verdant foliage of tropical grandeur, it is with a feeling of -supplication, induced by the magical influence of the night, that you -involuntarily alight from the “victoria” and enter the sacred portals -of this time-consecrated sanctuary, most holy and inviolable site, -where for ages past the “padre” sang mass to the souls of the donors, -the parishioners, who, kneeling in humble supplication, have chanted, -in eloquent voice, the Ave Maria and Gloria Patria from the prayers in -the three chaplets of their worshipful Rosary. As you linger in silent -meditation along the galleries of this sanctified edifice, as if in -quest of the “Holy Grail,” it is with a feeling of penitence for an -inherent apostasy which seems to overwhelm you. The glittering -satellites in the heavens cast their rays through the apertures of the -quaint old campanile, in whose lofty dome, the home of fluttering bats -and a staid old owl, tinkling bells for generations rang out at sunset -and early dawn, as the people sang their vespers and chanted the Ave -Maria. - -Inflamed with sudden passion you stand transfixed along the balustrade -with a mixed feeling of sublimity and dread, as if anticipating a -great pleasure fraught with dire results, when――hark! the faint though -ever-beautiful tones of the “Te Deum laudamus” vibrate softly on the -ear. Your peaceful tranquillity has been pleasantly disturbed, and you -gaze in ecstatic amazement toward the vestry as a graceful spectre -glides gently by. It is the “Choir Invisible.” You feel the fanning -zephyrs blowing, you are thrilled with emotion and delight, and, as -you depart from this phantasmagoria, you soliloquizingly ask, “Is -there any inviolable covenant this scene should strengthen?” _Varium -et mutabile semper femina._ “What’s the use?” you murmur, as you -spring into the vehicle and order the cochero to hurry the ponies. In -twenty minutes’ time you alight under the canopy of the entrance to -the Hotel “Oriente” in Manila, step on the “lift,” and soon find you -are amid the soothing strains of an orchestra and the sheltering palms -of the roof-garden, _tête à tête_ with your cheerful friends of the -tropics. - - * * * * * - -Though many thousand miles from home, the prospects of soon -fraternizing with friends in the United States brought cheer to the -soldiers. Disembarking from the cascoes at the Quartermaster-wharf in -Manila, the regiment marched along the beautiful Bayumbayan drive near -the old walled city, to the government pier, the point of embarkation. -As we bade Manila and its mystical orientalism a parting farewell, our -sea-going tugs ploughed the waters of Manila Bay, and ere long the -regiment had landed at the quarantine station Mariveles. - -If there is a more isolated spot on the top of God’s green earth than -this resort is, my conception of hell is very vague. At one time the -rendezvous of Chinese pirates, Mariveles later became a Chinese -stockade. The Spaniards used it as an outpost. Here at night the -soldiers were cooped up like cattle, always welcoming the dawn, when -they could at least roam and breathe fresh air. Some distance in the -mountains, in the crater of an extinct volcano, a hot mineral spring -with an elegant outlet afforded splendid opportunities for bathing. -Swimming in the bay was also great pastime, and under the tutorage of -Captain Wells, who inaugurated a system of swimming drill, we found -considerable pleasure. His system was to execute, while swimming, the -same tactics as we did on foot; this was very funny and enjoyable -sport. - -After spending two weeks insulated from civilization, during which -time we had undergone a process of fumigation, our transport, the -_Thomas_, hove in sight, and was soon moored to the wharf. Little time -was spent in storing our accoutrements of war on board. After each -company had been assigned to its quarters, the signal to cast loose -was given; we had at last commenced our homeward-bound voyage in -earnest. - -With the homeward-bound pennant flying in the breeze, the transport -steamed through the “Mona-Chica” into the China Sea headed for Japan. -The shrill click, click, of the wireless telegraph, receiving and -transmitting messages, continued throughout the voyage. Occasionally -excitement was caused by the sight of a whale; “There she blows!” and -you see off the port-side a monstrous species of the mammal genus -cruising and spouting like a Holland submarine. Schools of porpoises -are a daily sight on either side, while millions of flying-fish skirt -the billows off every quarter. - -On the spar-deck of the transport could be heard: “Come on, fellows, -give us a bet; loosen up and take a chance; Steve Brodie did; when -this war is over we’ll start another; come, soldiers, get on the -field; double up; you’re sure to win some time.” About this time a -soldier, who has put some “dealer” to the bad, grabs the dice and -yells: “How much money have you got? I’ll tap your pile. Ninety -dollars! Throw the bones.” As this gamester skilfully manipulates the -dice which he rattles in his hand, and blows on for good luck, he -affectionately remarks, “Bones! don’t refuse me this time; you’ve been -good to me, old pals.” He rolls the dice and throws a ten. “Two to one -he don’t ten; I’ve got you covered,” is heard on the side lines; -another throw is made, a four this time, and bets are made on the -side, that he comes. In the parlance of the soldier, the “bones” are -talking friendly; as the dice roll over the green cloth for the third -time, a six and four turns up; “Ten she is!” he shouts, as lie tucks -away one hundred and eighty simoleons (a soldier’s word for money) and -exclaims, “Good old bones.” - -“Two bits he comes”; this is the tantalizing epithet directed at a -fellow whose death-like form hangs over the taffrail a victim of -sea-sickness. - -Games are numerous on an army transport, everything from “keno” to -“faro,” and this greatly breaks the monotony of the voyage. Every -evening the regimental band discourses music, and dancing is indulged -in. There are always plenty of girls who accompany the officers’ -families as domestics (all colors, of course); these afford partners -for the soldiers, and maybe there isn’t some class to the “rag”; -everything goes, from the “barn-dance” to the “Frisco dip.” - -A prize-fight is advertised between a “chocolate soldier” and a -“pale-face.” Every man in uniform buys a ticket, the returns from -which go to make up a purse for the winner. There are no Turkish baths -taken to reduce weight, no skipping the rope or punching the bag to -improve the respiratory organs; this was completed before leaving the -Philippines, by way of mountain “hikes” in heavy marching order, from -early morn till dewy eve, subsisting on an emergency ration, on which -you are guaranteed to exist for at least a while. Each soldier is so -confident in his prowess, that training is out of the question; each -imagines he will land a hook that will send his opponent to the arms -of Morpheus for the customary count. Steps are removed and a hatch is -battened and roped; as the time arrives for the combat, soldiers crowd -around the arena, hang from spars and davits, all eager to see the -“black” and “white” contest for superiority. The contestants arrive -with their seconds as the band strikes up a warm selection, the gloves -are slipped on, and the men take their corners. The referee is a man -who holds little value on life and must be able to fight himself. Time -is called. The men shake hands, then spar awhile for an opening. A -soldier cries, “Fake! why don’t they fight?” They now slam each other -to body and head; both are bleeding when the gong sounds. Round second -opens wild; they swing, hook, and duck, hammering away with one arm -free in the clinch; each man dances as he awaits a lead from his -opponent; both take their corners pretty much exhausted as the gong -sounds. The third round begins viciously, though each man cautiously -parries off the blows; both are fighting in good old military style, -when they clinch; in the break-away they mix things, and the pale -soldier drops to the mat as the crowd yell, “Foul! foul!” and he is -counted out. A little ammonia revives him, and he is awarded the -decision on a foul, though badly whipped by his dark opponent. “Can he -come back?” No one cares. The referee is the hope of the white race! - -As the transport approaches the Island of Hondo, soldiers are seen -polishing their ornaments and buttons, pressing their uniforms, and -making general preparations for a visit in Nagasaki. The conversation -drifts to the way they are to spend their shore leave. “The first -thing I do is to visit the bazaar,” remarks a soldier; “I want to buy -a satsuma dinner set for my sister Peggy and a silk kimono for my -sweetheart, some lacquer ornaments inlaid with mother-of-pearl, -bronzes, and some silk.” “Well,” remarks another, “I am going to pick -out the prettiest silk sunshade in Nagasaki, some cashmere shawls, and -I guess a lace mantilla will suit Juana, my Creole friend in New -Orleans.” “What’s the matter with having a nice colored ‘dragon’ and a -‘Tycoon in a jinrickshaw’ tattooed on your arms? and don’t forget to -buy some amber cigar-smokers; there are beauties in Japan and very -cheap,” speaks a soldier who has been there. “The first thing I am -going to do,” another ejaculates, “is to hie me to a restaurant for a -good square dinner; a Japanese duck with all the trimmings will do, -with a bottle of ‘Rising Sun saki’ on the side.” - -On arrival at Nagasaki, a fleet of Japanese war-vessels lay off our -port bow. After anchoring, preparations were made to give the boys -shore liberty; as we were to remain two days in this port, while the -natives coaled the ship, it was decided to let one-half of the -regiment go ashore each day. - -“Japs” with sampans laden with curios and fruit surrounded the ship; -these were exchanged for money by the soldiers, and hauled aboard by -means of a rope and bucket. - -The quarantine inspection in Japan is very rigid, which no doubt -accounts for the excellent health of the race and the sanitary -condition of the country. - -As the call, “Lay aft, all the liberty party,” was piped by the -boatswain, soldiers riled down the gangway and boarded launches, tugs, -and sampans, and were at once conveyed to the “Land of the Rising -Sun,” tea-houses, and chrysanthemums. - -On reaching the wharf hundreds of Japanese jinrickshaw-men were in -line, waiting to haul the Americans to any part of the city. Every -“rickshaw” on the beach was immediately engaged, and away we went -through the streets of Nagasaki, visiting bazaars, theatres, temples, -pagodas, museums, and tea-houses. An unfortunate thing happened to a -friend of mine while being hauled along the “Bund.” There were perhaps -forty “rickshaws” in line, each contesting for the lead, when on -turning a curve the “rickshaw” in front of mine broke down, -precipitating my friend into the dust. My man, being unable to stop, -ran over him, the wheel badly lacerating the whole side of his face. -Both “Japs” ran away to escape punishment, the fellow in the rear ran -into me, and there was a general spill along the whole line. It is -needless to say that walking was good for several hours after this -affair. - -As our shore leave expired at 8 A.M., every fellow was getting the -best out of the hours that were speeding by, as he knew there would be -many monotonous days to spend on the Pacific Ocean before reaching -Honolulu. - -In tea-houses on the outskirts of the city, groups of soldiers sat and -watched the geisha-girls do the “serpentine” to the music of -“samisens,” their graceful forms presenting a novel spectacle, draped -in flowing silk kimonos, as seen through a veil of cigarette smoke. - -Next morning when the roll was called aboard the transport, a large -percentage of the “liberty-party” was absent, and it became necessary -to send out a patrol to round up the soldiers. As a result of this -celebration, there were innumerable court-martials held _en route_ to -the Hawaiian Islands, with fines ranging from five to twenty-five -dollars. - -Our voyage across the Pacific was uneventful. The weather was -extremely calm, the horizon appearing as a circular brink of a -tremendous cataract, over which the surging billows thundered in -pensive solitude. An occasional albatross was sighted winging its -flight through the aerial regions. Under the leeward shrouds, groups -of soldiers congregated, spinning yarns or playing at cards, while -others on the windward side inhaled the health-giving ozone of the -salt-sea breeze. A Japanese mail-steamer, and several merchant marines -were sighted from our course, _en route_ to points in Australia and -the Orient. - -Several hours before our arrival in Honolulu, it was whispered about -the deck that our shore privileges were to be restricted, and, sure -enough, the disappointment was realized, due, it was said, to those -who had overstayed their privileges in Japan. To be kept a prisoner in -Mariveles was bad enough, but to be prevented from mingling with the -throng in the “Garden of the Gods,” the “Paradise of the Pacific,” -Honolulu, was more than the boys could stand. As we entered the -harbor, dotted here and there with bell-buoys, fishing-smacks, yachts, -and vessels of the merchant marine, we saw the new naval station off -our port side, and the camp of the United States marines extending to -the coral reefs to starboard. From the spar deck we could gaze on the -beautiful city of Honolulu, with its white stone buildings bathed in -tropical luxuriance, and the contour of its mountainous inland -towering to the clouds. It was with a feeling of relief, as the vessel -moored to the wharf, that a chance could be taken on getting ashore. - -The wharf was studded with people, mostly tourists and native venders, -though a large concourse of officers’ families had come to greet their -relatives. As the gangway was lowered, the band struck up an inspiring -air, and only those who have seen an American transport loaded with -soldiers returning home from that far-off jungle land, the Philippines -and Sulu, can form any conception of the passionate display of -enthusiasm manifested on these occasions. - -Vendors of beautiful wreaths of flowers, curios, and succulent fruit -greet the visitor on all sides. These flower wreaths are worn around -the band of the hat and around the neck; they are a traditional -necessity, without which you are staged, in this city of the Pacific, -in a class by yourself. - -Pineapples, pineapples, pineapples, everywhere you look; the most -delicious pineapples in the world come from Hawaii, the bulk of the -exportation to the United States being marketed along the Pacific -slope. - -The shore privileges of the battalion being restricted, we had to be -content with taking observations from the taffrail. I had been to -Honolulu several times while in the navy, and had stopped here _en -route_ to the islands with the Twenty-ninth Infantry, so that I -naturally felt disappointed at my inability to go ashore,――so much, in -fact, that I decided to eradicate the feeling at the risk of a -court-martial. - -Having anticipated making a social call, besides expecting mail -addressed to the Alexander Young Hotel, I was determined on getting -ashore, if it necessitated going down over the anchor-chains, as we -did in the navy when shore leave was not forthcoming, which, however, -would not be necessary in this case, as our ship was moored to the -dock. - -On the strength of being a non-commissioned officer, I thought that -perhaps a diplomatic hand played judiciously might have some weight -with the colonel. - -Investing myself in a fresh-laundried suit of war-clothes, with -carefully wound puttees, I approached without dismay headquarters, and -with the determination, if rebuffed, to await complacently the first -opportunity for smuggling myself ashore, when presently I heard my -name being called out near the gangway. Hastening in this direction, I -found a Hawaiian messenger with a note for me. Hastily tearing open -the envelope, the missive read as follows: “My dear Mr. A――――, We are -friends of your cousin May; call up 091 Aloho Lane immediately.” Had I -received my mail from Young’s Hotel, I would have understood the -message thoroughly; but, alas! it was Greek,――not too Greek, however. -Detaining the messenger, I sought the advice of the regimental -sergeant major, who informed me that it would be absolutely futile to -apply for shore leave, as a number of applications had been -disapproved. Feeling chagrined over my inability to comply with the -request in the message, I resorted, after considerable thought, to the -miserable subterfuge of denying my presence on board. Seeking the -assistance of Sergeant Allen, I dictated the following: “This message -was opened inadvertently; Mr. A――――has been detained in Japan; will be -through on a liner next month. (Signed) ALLEN.” - -The boy departed (after I had tipped him on keeping his counsel), -leaving me meditating on how I was to get ashore. - -My experience in the navy was helping me wonderfully, when something -occurred demanding immediate action, an unforeseen exigency in the -shape of another messenger. This time it was the first mate of the -transport _Thomas_, Mr. Worth, who, to add to my chain of humiliating -circumstances, informed me that three ladies were awaiting me on the -promenade deck, two of them Hawaiians, the third an American. They had -missed the messenger (thanks for his carelessness!). “For heaven’s -sake!” I exclaimed; “I am not on board, mate! I am in Japan.” “Oh, -they are wise; they have been talking to an officer, and he has sent -an orderly to find you; so come on up; they look good to me and they -are anxious to see you.” (Oh, if I only had that messenger, what I’d -do to him!) “Tell them I will be there in a moment,” I exclaimed, as I -went below for some letters a member of the crew had consented to -mail. - -In a few moments I had scaled the ladder to the promenade deck, where -I met the jolliest trio of femininity it has been my pleasure to -commune with. They told me what great friends they were of my cousin, -of her writing them of my departure from the Philippines, of the -explanatory letter awaiting me at Young’s Hotel, and all about the big -touring-car awaiting us at the pier, et cetera. Two of these ladies -were perfect types of Hawaiian beauty, Vassar graduates, and members -of the obsolete nobility, the other a typical American girl, a -tourist, and daughter of a retired naval officer. - -I was aware that my cousin had spent the previous winter in Honolulu, -and understood, from the message, that she had written her friends of -my home-coming _via_ the Hawaiian Islands on the transport _Thomas_, -so that an apology for my failure to comply with the request in the -message could hardly be avoided. So it became imperative that I -disclose the facts in connection with the deprivation of our shore -leave,――how we overstayed our liberty in Japan, and the denial of my -presence on board the transport. Being jolly good fellows, these -ladies considered this predicament a great joke, as they had visited -Japan, and I presume knew the irresistible fascinations of the -“Flowery Kingdom.” But that was neither here nor there: they had come -on board to take me ashore, and ashore I must go. - -The people in question are warm friends of a particular friend of -mine, a globe-trotter (address, United States of America) whose -meteoric flights cover both hemispheres, and who arranges the -destinations of her itinerary in accordance with climatic conditions; -when not basking in the sunshine along the Riviera or under the -cocoa-palms of the tropics, she is shooting the rapids of the St. -Lawrence River or ascending the precipitous slopes of Mt. Washington. -This lady of rare accomplishments and precious jewels, whose benignity -of aspect is subordinate only to her delicate finesse, is related -paradoxically to the author, through a long chain of ancestry dating -back to the tenants of Paradise; we are therefore by mutual consent -known as cousins. - -Through the courtesy of Mr. Worth, the privilege of his cabin was -extended; here the party was served with ice-cold “Three Star” -mineral-water, and here my departure from the ship was planned with -great success. - -After escorting the ladies to the gang-plank, promising to write, and -bidding them a farewell, I repaired to my quarters, invested myself in -a civilian suit of white duck, and was lowered over the side of the -vessel into a steam-launch, which conveyed me to a point on the beach -where, leaving the launch, I joined the trio in a large limousine of -patrician elegance, for a spin over the famous Pali Drive. “That is -going some,” I remarked, as the machine sped on. “Yes, and then some,” -exclaimed the American girl. “Well, all is fair in love and war,” -ejaculated a dashing Hawaiian. “Well, well sprinkle this event with -romance,” added the other, laughingly. “‘Love and war’ sounds good. If -I am reported, I will quote that as my defence,” I replied. “Aloho -mie,” in an Hawaiian undertone, brings forth a peal of laughter as the -party catch the sense. - -Our ride included the ever-beautiful Pali Drive, a magnificent -boulevard shaded by the bowery maze of the banyan-tree, a run to -Diamond Head Beach, a spin along Fort Street, the business section, -and the “King’s Highway.” After refreshments on the roof-garden of the -Alexander Young Hotel, where I received my mail, we drove to 091 Aloho -Lane, the home of these charming people; here, surrounded by tropical -luxuriance, wide porticoes, hammocks, and reclining wicker chairs, we -remained for the afternoon. During “tiffin” a victorolo rendered -elegant operatic selections, while suspended over the dining-table a -punka inspired a gentle breeze. - -In the evening about sundown the party, having increased, journeyed to -Waikiki Beach, the popular bathing resort. Here, at the Moana Hotel, -we joined in a genuine native “luau,” heard “Sunny Chunna” sing her -famous compositions, and later joined in the merry whirl to the music -of the Hawaiian Band. Near this famous winter resort we journeyed into -a gayety hall, where a string of Hawaiian beauties, festooned in -garlands of flowers, performed the “Hulu Hulu” dance, rivalling in -vivaciousness the whirlwind contortions of our valiant Ruth St. Denis. - -After a midnight lunch at the Hotel Moana, the party returned to the -city. A motor-boat conveyed me to the transport, which, fortunately, -was boarded without difficulty. - -Next morning on board the transport I was the recipient of a basket of -delicious pineapples, and, as a memento of the enjoyable day, a -scarf-pin bearing the coat-of-arms of the Hawaiian Islands. - -Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, is the most beautiful section of the -earth I have visited; the climate varies little, and it can be more -properly termed a temperate clime than tropical, although tropical -vegetation is indigenous. Kilauea, on the eastern slope of Mauna Loa -mountain, is the loftiest and most active volcano in the world, its -crater being nine miles in circumference. Mauna Loa has an altitude of -nearly fourteen thousand feet and is covered with perpetual snow. - -A few hours before the departure of the transport for “Frisco,” “Jack” -London, the writer, arrived in the harbor on the _Snark_, a -twenty-four foot schooner, in which he was making a tour of the globe. -As the ship cast loose from the pier, it was with a feeling of regret -that I had to leave this delightful country and such amiable people. -Wafting an Aloho to my friends and their country, we departed for the -American coast, passing _en route_, the second day out, an American -fleet of war-vessels. As the transport approached the city of the -“Golden Gate” in the darkness of the night, myriads of lights -glittered along the distant shore. - -Steaming through the channel, we entered the bay in the break of the -early morning. Off the starboard side stood the grand old landmark the -Cliff House, overlooking the bay and city of San Francisco; on the -port side, Fort McDowell and the old Island prison, San Quentin. After -docking at the pier, relatives and friends of the soldiers were -permitted on board, shore leave was granted, and the boys roamed at -will through the city that had recently risen from a mass of ruins, -caused by the telluric flames that followed the dreadful earthquake of -1906. - -Three days were pleasantly spent in “Frisco” ere the regiment departed -for the Atlantic coast in three sections, over the Santa Fé Railroad, -the First and Second battalions for Forts Porter and Niagara, N. Y., -the Third battalion, non-commissioned staff, and band for Governor’s -Island, N. Y. Being a soldier of the Third battalion, the balance of -my enlistment was spent at this post in the capacity of record clerk -at headquarters of the Twenty-ninth Infantry. - -Governor’s Island is a small island situated at the junction of the -East River and New York Bay. It is connected with Battery Park, near -South Ferry, by a government ferry-boat, which makes a trip between -the island and South Ferry every half-hour. The island was first -settled by the Dutch in 1614. When the English took New York in 1684, -they built Ft. Columbus, the present site of Ft. Jay. Castle William, -facing the harbor, was completed in 1810. It is used at present as a -military prison. - -Besides the palatial residence of the commanding general of the -Department of the East, there are various buildings in which the -business of this department is transacted; also homes of the officers, -barracks of the soldiers, chapel, library, post exchange, -quartermaster’s supply depot, the officers’ club, and a museum -containing relics of wars dating back to the revolution. Here may be -seen in a large glass repository, in a state of preservation, the -noble steed fully equipped as it appeared when carrying General -Sheridan through the valley of the Shenandoah. - -Corbin Hall, a pretentious building adjoining the old chapel and -facing the parade-ground, is the site of the officers’ club, and -contains a sumptuous ball-room, which is frequently the scene of -gorgeous military display. Through the courtesy of the Officers’ Club, -the use of this magnificent ball-room was tendered the Fort Jay Social -Club every Thursday evening, when mirth and good-fellowship reigned. -During my incumbency in office as secretary of this club, I found it -necessary to pass unfavorably on scores of written applications for -invitations to these affairs, due solely to the fact that, each member -of the club being allowed four invitations, it was impossible to -accommodate more than the prescribed quota. I mention this fact to -show the popularity of these dances, and in conjunction as a general -apology to those to whom invitations were not forthcoming. - -These weekly dances had the true brass-button effect, strictly -military. The Twenty-ninth Infantry band furnished the music, the -grand-march being invariably led by Chaplain Smith of Governor’s -Island, accompanied by a budding debutante, blithe and fair; these -were followed by the gay and graceful belles of Gotham, each on the -arm of a stalwart soldier appearing at his best. During the -intermission refreshments were served in the communicating apartments. - -The use of the ferry was cordially extended to the New York patrons of -the dance, who could step off the boat almost into the subway, where -an express could be had for all points in New York, Brooklyn, and -Jersey City. - -The close proximity of Governor’s Island to the city bearing the -proverbial appellation “Gotham” affords excellent opportunity to the -soldiers for seeing the sights of a great metropolis. Every evening -soldiers in civilian attire leave the island, and on entering the -subway are soon lost sight of in this beehive of humanity. There are -few items in the calendar of joy which the soldier overlooks, for his -duty has been performed faithfully and he now seeks pleasure with -unrestrained ardor. - -If perchance, at the close of a drama or burletta, you wander through -the “tenderloin” and casually stroll into “Maxim’s,” “Murray’s,” or -“Martin’s,” you are apt to see him _tête à tête_ with his sweetheart, -dining table-d’hôte; or hail a “taxi” and spin over to the Café -Boulevard, across to “Terrace Garden,” up to the “Haymarket,” down to -“Little Hungary,” or a variety of other amusement halls, and there you -will find him with bells on, in close communion with some favorite -chorus satellite, of perhaps the “Folies Bergere,” whose grace along -the “Rialto” brooks no competition, whose gowns and ostrich-plumes are -the envy of Parisian salons and the pride of “Redfern’s” modistes, and -whose long suite is the importance she attaches to her connoisseurship -of the best things in life. Yes, there he is attracted like the moth -to the flame. - -During the summer evenings it is a most inspiring sight to witness the -lowering of the colors, drooping slowly with the trumpet’s notes of -retreat, as the regiment stands at parade-rest; the loud boom of the -sundown gun, followed by the band’s rendition of the Star-Spangled -Banner, and the regiment as it passes in review. - -My enlistment having expired at Governor’s Island, March 2, 1910, I -was discharged from the army of the United States. - - - - -THE END. - - - - -Transcriber’s Note: - -Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like -this_. This book was written in a period when many words had not become -standardized in their spelling. Words may have multiple spelling -variations or inconsistent hyphenation in the text. 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