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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles in
+Norway, by Robert Taylor Pritchett
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+Title: 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles in Norway
+
+Author: Robert Taylor Pritchett
+
+Release Date: November 22, 2020 [EBook #63851]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GAMLE NORGE: RAMBLES AND SCRAMBLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Charlene Taylor, Bryan Ness, Robert Tonsing
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian
+Libraries)
+
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+
+
+
+
+                             “GAMLE NORGE”
+                         RAMBLES AND SCRAMBLES
+                                  IN
+                                NORWAY
+
+                      BY ROBERT TAYLOR PRITCHETT
+
+         _WITH MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+                                LONDON
+                  VIRTUE & CO., LIMITED, 26, IVY LANE
+                            PATERNOSTER ROW
+                                 1879
+
+    _The Engravings in this Work have been executed by Messrs._ J.
+    & G. NICHOLLS, _under the personal supervision of the Artist._
+
+  [Illustration: _The Meal Mill: Isterdal._]
+
+
+
+
+                               PREFACE.
+
+
+The object of the present work is to bring before the notice of the
+general reader and tourist the advantages and pleasure accruing from
+a few weeks’ sojourn among the mountains and fjords of that grand yet
+simple country, Norway. Everywhere abounding with features of interest,
+it will especially commend itself to the Englishman when he calls to
+mind how close was the link between the Scandinavians and his ancestors.
+
+To travel profitably it is not sufficient merely to notice or admire
+scenic effects. Men and manners should also be closely observed; and
+no object or detail, however trivial, should be neglected or deemed
+beneath regard. Norway presents a wide field for observation and
+research, whatever may be the tastes and predilections of the visitor.
+Here may the geologist, if so disposed, find ample material for study;
+the archæologist and antiquarian may revel among Runic stones, Viking
+tumuli, rites and ceremonies, quaint wood-carvings adorned with the
+ever-twining serpent, costumes, customs, &c.; the keenest sportsman
+will find a treat in store for him; while the lover of the grand in
+nature and of simple rustic life will meet with them here to his
+heart’s content. But to do this the main roads and cities must be
+abandoned for the mountains and fjelds, with their reindeer tracts and
+trout streams.
+
+To the Fjeld, then, to the Fjeld! with its beautiful flora and mosses,
+its sport, its avalanches and landslips, its balmy air and soothing
+zephyrs. To the Fjeld—off to the Fjeld!
+
+                                                             R. T. P.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+
+                  I.—CHRISTIANSAND AND CHRISTIANIA.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+  GAMLE NORGE—AN EARLY MURRAY—UNEXPLORED STATE OF THE
+    COUNTRY—THE PIONEERS OF SPORT—CROSSING THE NORTH
+    SEA—NOT THEN AS NOW—CONTENT OF THE PEASANTS—CHARM OF
+    THE FJELD—CHRISTIANSAND—CHRISTIANIA—THE EMIGRANT’S
+    VICISSITUDES—THE VICTORIA HOTEL AND OSCAR HALL                     3
+
+
+                           II.—THELEMARKEN.
+
+  LYSTHUS—COMPONENT PARTS OF TRAVEL—HITTERDAL CHURCH—THE
+    CHAIR—THE CAMP AT SKEJE—FLATDAL—RELICS OF THE PAST—THE
+    ASTONISHED MAGPIE AND UNKNOWN MUSIC—THE COSTUMES OF
+    THELEMARKEN—THE “HULDRE”—THE BEAUTIFUL TROLD—BERGE AND
+    THE MANGLETRÆ—MOGEN—THE PLOUGH, REIN HORNS, AND SNOW
+    SHOES—BOCKLEY AND PUKKINGS—BLACK-BROWN BEER—JAMSGAARD—A
+    NIGHT IN THE LAAVE—CAMP BEDS AND HAMMOCK—BOTTEN—NEW
+    ROAD-MAKING—WEIRD SCOTCH FIRS—A BLASTED FOREST                    19
+
+
+                           III.—HARDANGER.
+
+  HAUKELID—SLAUGHTER OF REINDEER IN A BOTTEN—THE BROKEN
+    BRIDGE—THE FORD—USEFUL OLD PONY—THE ASCENT—ROLDAL VALLEY
+    AND BRIDGE—THE LENSMAND—FLORA AND LONG TRAMP—DOUBLE SOLAR
+    RAINBOW—SNOW SHOES—GRÖNDAL AND DISTANT FOLGEFOND—ZIGZAG
+    ROAD—SELJESTAD—NO FOOD, BUT A GOOD PONY—GRÖNDAL
+    WATERFALLS—SANDEN VAND—THE LATE ARRIVAL AT ODDE                   41
+
+
+                      IV.—BERGEN AND ARCHÆOLOGY.
+
+  FROM ODDE DOWN SÖR FJORD—UTNE—HARDANGER FJORD—FAIRY
+    TROLDS—BJERG TROLDS—THE HULDRE—THE NÖKKEN—THE
+    NISSER—HAUGE FOLKET—TUFTI FOLKET—THE DRANGEN—CRACA, THE
+    WITCH OF NORWAY—OLAF KYRRE, THE NORSE KING—BERGEN—THE
+    HANSEATIC LEAGUE—THE GERMAN MERCHANTS—THE “PFEFFER
+    JUNKERS”—THE FISH FOLK OF BERGEN—THE MUSEUM—STRAX—THE
+    SILDE KONGE—NORWEGIAN WHALE SKELETONS—THE FLINT
+    PERIOD—BRONZE PERIOD—INHUMATION AND CINERATION—ROMAN
+    INFLUENCE—THE IRON PERIOD—ARCHÆOLOGICAL PERIODS IN NORWAY         53
+
+
+                     V.—WEST COAST AND NORDFJORD.
+
+  COAST TRAVELLING—BERGEN HARBOUR—THE SCHOONER YACHT—SKAALS
+    OVERDONE—WEST COAST—STEENSUND—ALDEN—OUSEN AND
+    ITS GARDEN ROOFS—EN ROUTE FOR SANDE—DELIGHTFUL
+    STATION—GOOD FISH—JOLSTER VAND AND NEDRE VASENDEN—THE
+    ANXIOUS BATHER—PICTURESQUE CHURCH-GOING—NORWEGIAN
+    BLAKKEN—THE ACCIDENT—THE FRIENDLY TOILETTE—COSTUMES
+    AND BABY SWADDLING—SCARCITY OF FOOD—THE TENTMASTER
+    COOKING—NORDFJORD ANTIQUITIES—PROFESSOR WORSAAE AND
+    M. LORANGE—CONTENTS OF TUMULUS—THE VIKINGS’ GAME OF
+    “MYLLA”—UDVIG—THE BAD PASS FROM MOLDESTADT—SNOW POLES—THE
+    POSTMAN AND BIRCH BOUGHS—BIRTHDAY FESTIVITIES—FALEIDET—LYTH
+    FISHING—HAUGEN AND HORNINGDALSKRAKKEN—HELLESYLT—BELTS—THE
+    GEIRANGER FJORD—CAPTAIN DAHL—THE SEVEN SISTERS—THE VIKING’S
+    HEAD—THE PULPIT—MARAAK—STORFJORD                                  73
+
+
+                        VI.—MOLDE AND ROMSDAL.
+
+  MOLDE—THE GOOD SHIP “TASSO”—STATLAND—AALESUND—MOLDE
+    LANDING—HERR BUCK—THE LOVE OF FLOWERS AT MOLDE—THE LEPER
+    HOUSE—MOLDE TO VEBLUNGSNÆS—THE BEAR AND THE PIGE—ROMSDAL
+    FJORD—AAK—THE RAUMA—THE OLD CHURCH OF GRYTEN—THE
+    CANDELABRA—HERR ONSUM—NÆSS—THE SKYD-GUT—THE SAIL WITH SEA
+    ROVERS—THE INEBRIATED BAKER OF WHITE BREAD—OLE LARSEN—THE
+    LAAVE—HERR LANDMARK AND THE HOTEL AT AAK—KJERULF THE
+    COMPOSER—THE ROMSDAL HORN—THE TROLTINDERNE—FIVA—THE
+    MEAL HOUSE—THE STEEN-SKREED—THE SOLGANG WIND—THE SHEEP
+    BOY AND GOAT HORN—SEA-FISHING—WOODWORK—CARRIOLES—HOW TO
+    CROSS A RIVER—OLD KYLE—MØLMEN CHURCH, AND THE SLEEPER’S
+    CURE—FLIES—SALMON-FISHING FROM A TINE                            101
+
+
+                     VII.—THE FJELD AND REINDEER.
+
+  OPENING DAY FOR REINDEER—AALESUND—AURORA
+    BOREALIS—INQUIRING FRIENDS—BERRY VARIETIES—TO THE
+    FJELD—NECESSARIES—REINDEER-FLOWERS—TO THE TENTS—THE
+    DOGGIES—DANJEL AND OLE—MØLMEN—THE ARRIVAL—OUR
+    CONCERT—PTARMIGAN—REINDEER SPÖR—TROUT-FISHING IN THE
+    VAND—GOOD SPORT—THE TENTMASTER’S STORY—PASSOP AND THE
+    STOR BUCK—SNOW-WORK—SÆTER LIFE—MARITZ’S LONELY STATE—HER
+    KINDLINESS—THE SWIZZLE-STICK—THE OLD BOAT—THE EAGLE AND
+    NEST—REINDEER AND RED DEER HEADS—THE DIFFICULTY OF GETTING
+    THEM—INDFJORD—OLE ERIKSON BOE—HALVE JACOBSEN—INGEBORG
+    AND THE STEEN-SKREED—INGRANA’S ACCOUNT—INGEBORG’S
+    FUNERAL—RUNICSTONE—GRAVE-BOARDS—ISTERDAL—THE
+    MEAL-MILL—OLD KYLE—A SIMPLE-MINDED COW—OLE
+    FIVA—AIGUILLES—VALDAL—THE SOURCE OF THE ISTER—EXPEDITION
+    TO A FROZEN LAKE                                                 137
+
+                   VIII.—CEREMONIES, WEDDINGS, ETC.
+
+  WEDDINGS—COSTUME—THE PROCESSION TO THE
+    CHURCH—THE BRIDE’S RETURN—MOTTOES—BETROTHAL
+    AND MARRIAGE—CONFIRMATION—FUNERALS THEIR “ONLY
+    ONE”—GRAVE-BOARD INSCRIPTIONS—HOME LIFE—ANTIPATHY
+    TO VENTILATION—NEW CURRENCY—GEOLOGY—VARIATIONS IN
+    TEMPERATURE—WATERFALLS—POPULATION—WOOD-CARVING—OLD SILVER        191
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                        LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                       FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  THE MEAL MILL: ISTERDAL                                   Frontispiece
+  THE COURTYARD, VICTORIA HOTEL, CHRISTIANIA                          11
+  A TIMBER SHOOT                                                      13
+  KONGSBERG: THELEMARKEN                                              23
+  HITTERDAL CHURCH: SUNDAY MORNING                                    27
+  FLATDAL: THELEMARKEN                                                31
+  JAMSGAARD LAAVE                                                     37
+  THE WOODEN BRIDGE AT ROLDAL                                         43
+  SKJÆGGEDAL FOS                                                      47
+  BERGEN                                                              58
+  BERGEN: FISH MARKET IN THE DISTANCE                                 59
+  THE VILLAGE AND CHURCH OF ALVA                                      75
+  THE FRIENDLY TOILETTE                                               81
+  SANOE, LOOKING DOWN THE VALLEY                                      83
+  BRONZE BOWL, WITH ENAMEL CASE, SWORDS OF VIKING PERIOD: BERGEN
+    MUSEUM                                                            84
+  THE POST ARRIVING AT UDVIG                                          87
+  HELLESYLT                                                           96
+  THE GEIRANGER FJORD: SEVEN SISTERS FALL                             97
+  VEBLUNGSNÆS: ROMSDAL                                               109
+  THE TROLTINDERNE BY MOONLIGHT                                      119
+  ROMSDAL SNOW                                                       123
+  MAKING FOR THE FJORD                                               124
+  INTERIOR OF MØLMEN CHURCH                                          129
+  NEAR OVENDAL: AFTER REINDEER                                       145
+  THE STIGE-STEEN, OR LADDER ROCK                                    161
+  VOLDA                                                              171
+  SYLTEBØ: WITH FARM IMPLEMENTS                                      172
+  LANDSLIP AT SYLBOTTEN: INDFJORD                                    179
+  RUNIC STONE, WITH INSCRIPTION, NEAR INDFJORD                       180
+  THE GRAVESTED: INGEBORG’S FUNERAL, INDFJORD                        181
+  THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY: ISTERDAL                                   185
+  A BRIDAL PARTY CROSSING THE FJORD                                  193
+  THE BRIDE’S RETURN BY WATER                                        194
+  RETURN FROM THE CHRISTENING                                        198
+  THEIR “ONLY ONE”                                                   200
+
+
+                      ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  Tyssestrængene Fos                                                   3
+  Christiansand                                                        7
+  Christiania                                                         12
+  Hour Glasses                                                        19
+  Norwegian Carved Lintels                                            20
+  Carved House in Thelemarken                                         21
+  Carved Houses, Bru, Thelemarken                                     22
+  The Raft Boat: Thelemarken                                          25
+  Porch at Hitterdal: Thelemarken                                     28
+  Chair in Hitterdal Church                                           29
+  Smoking the Cows: Thelemarken                                       36
+  The Mangletræ                                                       37
+  Seljestad                                                           42
+  Odde: Hardanger                                                     44
+  Odde: Hardanger                                                     46
+  Buerbræ Glacier                                                     48
+  The Spring Dance: Hardanger                                         49
+  The Market: Bergen                                                  54
+  Rosendal                                                            55
+  Church Candlestand: Bergen Museum                                   62
+  Knife-stone on Bronze Belt: Bergen Museum                           63
+  Hard Schist Implements: North Cape                                  64
+  Sword and Bracelet: Bergen Museum                                   65
+  Rowlock Knot of Birch-stones and Viking Rowlock                     65
+  Sword Handle: Bergen Museum                                         66
+  Arrow Heads and Sword Handle: Bergen Museum                         67
+  Ousen                                                               76
+  The Island of Alden                                                 77
+  Nordfjord Peasants                                                  78
+  Norwegian Plough                                                    80
+  The Lych Gate, Nordfjord                                            82
+  The Pass: Moldestadt                                                86
+  Postman and his Carriole                                            87
+  The Saw-Mill: Udvig                                                 88
+  Faleidet: Nordfjord                                                 89
+  The Olden River                                                     90
+  Lyth Fishing                                                        91
+  Haugen, near Hellesylt                                              94
+  The Horningdalskrakken, near Haugen                                 95
+  Breen-stok, or Bucket for Sharpening Stone                          97
+  The Landing-place: Molde                                           102
+  Molde, from above the Town                                         103
+  Sea Warehouse: Molde                                               104
+  The Flower Market: Molde                                           105
+  The Churchyard: Molde                                              106
+  The Coast Inspector                                                108
+  Carriole crossing a River                                          111
+  Næss                                                               112
+  Ole Larsen, our Shoemaker                                          114
+  The Farm at Aak                                                    116
+  Meal House: Fiva, Romsdal                                          120
+  The Laave at Fiva: Romsdal                                         121
+  Rauma River Boat                                                   122
+  Sheep Boy’s Horn                                                   123
+  Shipping a Carriole                                                127
+  Grave-board, Mølmen Churchyard                                     128
+  A Norwegian Salmon Stage                                           131
+  Hardanger                                                          132
+  Powder Flask, &c.                                                  137
+  Snow Plough                                                        139
+  Snow Pass: Thorbvu                                                 142
+  After Sport                                                        144
+  An Anxious Moment                                                  145
+  Thorbvu: Encamping                                                 146
+  Easing down the Patriarch                                          147
+  The Gralloch                                                       148
+  Maritz Sæter                                                       149
+  A Friend in Need                                                   152
+  The Eagle’s Nest                                                   153
+  Reindeer Head                                                      154
+  Red Deer Head                                                      155
+  Worm Box                                                           159
+  Fresh Fish al Fresco                                               160
+  Casting                                                            162
+  A Good Beginning                                                   163
+  Wool Holder                                                        166
+  Reeb Holder                                                        168
+  Eikesdal                                                           170
+  Looking across Indfjord                                            176
+  The Halt at Griseth                                                177
+  Spinning in the Sæter: Isterdal                                    184
+  Melting Glacier over Valdal                                        186
+  Church Axe                                                         187
+  Bridal Crown                                                       192
+  The Wedding                                                        193
+  Drinking Horn                                                      194
+  Before the Wedding                                                 196
+  The Arrival at Home                                                197
+  Hitterdal Church                                                   198
+  The Funeral: Bergen                                                199
+  The Stolkjær and Boat                                              200
+  Sledging                                                           203
+  The Gentle Reproof                                                 204
+  Stabur and Wooden Tankards                                         208
+  Costume of Lutheran Priest of Norway                               210
+
+
+
+
+                                  I.
+                    CHRISTIANSAND AND CHRISTIANIA.
+
+  GAMLE NORGE—AN EARLY MURRAY—UNEXPLORED STATE OF THE
+      COUNTRY—THE PIONEERS OF SPORT—CROSSING THE NORTH
+      SEA—NOT THEN AS NOW—CONTENT OF THE PEASANTS—CHARM OF
+      THE FJELD—CHRISTIANSAND—CHRISTIANIA—THE EMIGRANT’S
+      VICISSITUDES—THE VICTORIA HOTEL AND OSCAR HALL.
+
+
+[Dropcap caption: _Tyssestrængene Fos._]
+
+For comparatively few years has Norway received any attention from
+the travelling public. The beauty and grandeur of the country and the
+simple habits of the people were known to but few, and only heard of
+occasionally from some energetic salmon fisher who preferred outdoor
+life, good sport, plain food, and vigorous health to the constant
+whirl of advanced civilisation, busy cities, over-crowded _soirées_,
+high-pressure dinners, and the general hurry-skurry of modern life.
+The words “Gamle Norge,” or old Norway, while exciting the greatest
+enthusiasm in Norway itself, rejoice the heart not only of many an
+Englishman who has become practically acquainted with its charms,
+but of those who, having heard of them, long to go and judge for
+themselves. Nor is the expression of modern introduction; it was
+evidently well known in the sixteenth century, as our immortal bard
+alludes to it in _Hamlet_.
+
+Forty-five years ago Norway and its salmon fisheries were unknown
+luxuries. Even as late as 1839 Murray published a post-octavo Handbook
+for Travellers in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, in the preface to which
+occur the subjoined passages:—
+
+“The principal object of the following pages is to afford such of my
+travelling countrymen as are disposed to quit the more beaten paths
+of Southern Europe, and explore the less known, but equally romantic,
+regions of the north, some useful information as to time and distance,
+which at present they can only obtain by time and experience. Beyond
+Hamburg all is unknown land; no guide-book contains any account of the
+Baltic steamboats, still less of the means of travelling, either by
+land or water, in the more distant lands of Norway and Sweden. At the
+steam-packet offices in London you may learn that an English steamer
+sails three times a month from Lubec to Stockholm, but no further
+information can be obtained.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+“Unless the weather is unusually stormy, and the passage of the
+vessel has consequently been delayed, the steamer remains in the
+outer harbour, called Klippen, for four or five hours; enabling the
+passengers who are going straight to Norway to inspect the city,
+which is well worth seeing. A miniature steamboat, the smallest I
+have ever seen, conveys you from the quay, at which the larger vessel
+remains moored, up the long harbour to the town itself, the journey
+occupying about half-an-hour. In the afternoon the _Constitution_
+continues her voyage, stretching much further out to sea, in crossing
+the Skager Rack, until, at an early hour the next morning, you reach
+Frederiksværn, the principal arsenal of Norway, situated at the
+entrance of the winding fjord of Christiania. From this place a smaller
+coasting steamboat conveys the passengers to Christiania, touching, in
+its passage up the Christiania fjord, at the various small towns and
+villages on either shore.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+“Steam vessels have for the last two or three years plied between
+Christiania and Frederiksværn and Bergen, but their times of leaving
+have hitherto been very irregular; beyond Bergen I am not aware that
+any regular communication has hitherto been projected.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+“No traveller has any business to intrude among the mountain fastnesses
+of Norway, unless he can not only endure a fair proportion of bodily
+fatigue, but can likewise put up with accommodations of the coarsest
+description. As far as Christiania this, of course, does not apply: the
+transport thither is by a comfortable steamboat, and the Hôtel du Nord
+sufficiently good to satisfy any man; but when you attempt to penetrate
+into the bowels of the land the case is different.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+“The Norsemen are strict Lutherans; scarcely an individual is to be
+met with professing any other creed, and no place of worship of any
+other kind exists in Norway. No Jew is allowed to set foot in Norway—a
+strange law in this free country. It has often struck me as a curious
+anomaly, that in the free cities of the Continent these unhappy
+outcasts were far worse treated than under many despotic governments.
+Commercial jealousy in a great measure accounts for this enmity in a
+city of merchants, but in a poor and thinly-populated country like
+Norway this motive could have no weight. I have been unable to learn
+from what cause the exclusion originated, though it is said to have
+originated from some idle fear that they would possess themselves of
+the produce of the silver mines at Kongsberg; but it is certainly a
+most startling fact that the freest people on earth should cling with
+such watchful jealousy to one of the most illiberal and inhuman laws
+that can be conceived.”
+
+Soon after this our real sport-lovers began to discover the charms of
+Norway, Sir Hyde Parker, Sir Richard Sutton, and Lionel James leading
+the van; and within the space of forty years the transition has taken
+place from free fishing and shooting to the Scotch system of letting
+moors—a state of things that would astonish Forrester and Biddulph,
+whose work on Norway has now become historical and of the greatest
+interest. Forrester begins thus (A.D. 1834):—“Eight days in
+the North Sea, beating against foul winds, or, which was still worse,
+becalmed amongst fleets of Dutch fishing-boats, and ending in a regular
+gale of wind, which was worst of all, prepared us to hail the sight
+of land, and that of the coast of Norway.” This passage was made in a
+little Norwegian schooner, bound from Gravesend to the south of Norway.
+
+How different is it now! Thanks to Messrs. Wilson, steamers take us
+thither almost to the hour, unless, indeed, the clerk of the weather
+should connive with old Neptune to teach us a lesson, by reminding us
+that the elements are not yet to be ordered about entirely as we like.
+English visitors commenced about 1824; Lord Lothian, Lord Clanwilliam,
+and Lord H. Kerr, 1827; Marquis of Hastings, 1829; and in 1830 we
+have Elliott’s account of Norway. Those were early days, when the
+_bönder_ were astonished, and could hardly believe their own eyes, when
+Englishmen went down with a piece of thread and a kind of coach-whip
+to kill a salmon of thirty pounds; or, again, when the first flying
+shot opened a new world to them. Those were the times when members of
+the Storthing (or Parliament) appeared in the costume of their own
+district, with belts, tolle-knives, &c. They were not so eager to grasp
+at civilisation as the Japanese, who simultaneously took to elastic
+boots, tall black hats, and the English language within a year. No;
+they are a contented people, with no desire for change, or to have it
+thrust upon them, until they discover that they can make money of the
+delighted foreigner, who, elevated by the grandeur of the mountain
+scenery, grows more warm-hearted, kind, and generous than ever. Then
+the Norseman becomes rabid and exacting; but the provinces (thank
+Heaven!) still preserve their primitive simplicity.
+
+Let us, then, hasten to these happy hunting-grounds. The fjeld life
+will blow all the smoke out of us, and if we love nature we can store
+up health and purity of thought, and bring back concentrated food for
+happy reflection, should we be spared to a good old age. How such
+reminiscences will then come out, brightened by the fact that all the
+petty _désagréments_ of travel have been forgotten as they receded
+in the past! We need not enlarge on the pleasures of anticipation,
+the punctual meeting at the railway station, the satisfaction of
+knowing that nothing has been omitted or left behind—a congratulation
+sometimes a little blighted by the discovery that some one, after
+ransacking everything, cannot find his breech-loader or cartridge
+cases, or that some one else has left his pet “butchers” or “blue
+doctors” on his dressing-table. Should such mischances occur, they
+are soon dissipated in the general atmosphere of enjoyment and
+anticipation, assisted by the thought that it is of no use losing
+one’s temper, as it is sure to be found again, and the temporary loss
+of it grieves one’s friends unnecessarily, to say nothing of personal
+discomfort. Happy thought—always leave your ill-temper at home; or,
+better still, do not have one: it is not a home comfort.
+
+[Illustration: _Christiansand._]
+
+The first port touched _en route_ for the capital of Norway is
+Christiansand, which is snugly hidden in the extreme south of the
+district of Sætersdalen—that land of eccentricity in costume and
+quaintness of habitation, of short waists and long trousers reaching to
+the shoulders, above which come the shallow, baby-looking jackets. With
+what zest does one strain for the first peep at a seaport of a foreign
+land! What value is attached to the earliest indication of varying
+costume, or even a new form of chimney! The steamer from Hull generally
+arrives at Christiansand on Sunday, when it is looking its neatest, the
+white tower of the church shining over the wooden houses of the town,
+the Norwegian shipping all in repose, with the exception, perhaps, of
+the heavy, compressed, Noah’s ark kind of dumpy barges, or a customs’
+gig containing some official. As we looked up at the church tower we
+could not but wonder if we should hear, during our short visit, the
+whistle of the “Vægter;” for tradition says that, for the protection
+of the place, a watchman is always on the look-out, ready to give the
+alarm should a fire break out in the town, which, being built almost
+entirely of wood, would soon be reduced to a heap of ashes. But no; we
+heard no whistle, not even a rehearsal. _On dit_ that for three hundred
+years has the Vægter looked out afar, and no alarum has issued from the
+tower. Christiansand has been mercifully preserved from fire, and long
+may it be so!
+
+During the passage over a friend told me of a Norwegian he once met
+on board. He was a Christiansander. The Norseman was in high glee,
+and, having entered into conversation with my friend, soon proposed a
+_skaal_ (health). This achieved, the story of the Norseman began to
+run rapidly off the reel, and it is so characteristic of the people
+that we cannot do better than repeat it here. Born at Christiansand,
+at the age of sixteen Lars became restless, wanted to see America, and
+make his way in life, for which there was not much scope in the small
+seaport. Lars’s father and mother were then living, with one daughter,
+who would take care of them whilst he started for the battle-field
+of life. He therefore determined to go. On his arrival in America he
+had a terrible struggle for existence, there being so many emigrants
+of all nations and classes. After patient endurance he began to get
+on, and saved sufficient to go to Chicago and California. During this
+time of trial how he thought about the chimes from the old white
+tower, the Vægter, and the fair-haired sister he had left behind, and
+wondered if all were well with the old people! At San Francisco he
+did pretty well for some time; but hearing one day that at Yokohama,
+in Japan, there was a good opening for a supply of butter (_smör_),
+his Norske associations were aroused, and his thoughts ran back to
+_sæters_, _piger_, cows, cream, and green pastures. That was the thing
+for Lars. So off he started for Yokohama, and having established a
+lucrative butter business, he determined to write home and send some
+money to his father and mother. This was a great pleasure to the
+kind-hearted fellow, while their answer assured him of the joy of those
+whom he had left behind on hearing of his safety and success, and
+receiving such a token of filial love. But the associations of home
+and childhood are strong, and it was not long before he experienced
+a desire to return. At length, however, he decided on developing the
+butter trade still further, and then, having a good offer to go back
+to San Francisco, he sold the whole business and good-will for a good
+round sum, and started on a new career, which this time took the form
+of brewing. How Norwegian! what national items!—butter (_smör_) and
+ale (_öl_). Again Lars was successful, and derived much comfort from
+the fact that he was thereby enabled to enhance the home happiness at
+Christiansand. Happy the son who comforts a father! Happy the paternal
+old age cherished by a son’s love! Beer, or rather ale, became the
+basis of a lucrative business. Lars, however, speedily discovered that
+bottled ale was the leading article to make the concern pay largely.
+But bottles were the difficulty; they were expensive items, and not
+manufactured in San Francisco. Lars often thought over this problem,
+which his partner, likewise, was unable to solve. Luckily one evening
+the good Norseman—he must have been indulging in a quiet pipe—had
+a happy thought. While musing over his early days the bottle-makers
+of Christiansand passed before him. He at once decided on making
+arrangements for visiting the old seaport, and, having seen those
+most dear to him on earth, to bring a bottle manufacturer back with
+him, thus combining business with pleasure. This is the yarn he told
+my friend, and when they entered the harbour poor Lars’s anxiety was
+intense. He had telegraphed to say that he was coming, and expected
+some one to meet and welcome him. During his absence he had heard
+that his sister had married happily, and that the son-in-law was very
+kind to his father; so Lars’s mind was set at rest. A boat neared the
+steamer, in the stern-sheets of which sat an aged man, a fair-haired
+Norseman rowing him. The old man was Lars’s father, who was soon on
+deck looking round, but he could not see his boy. At last, however, he
+spied him, and, throwing his arms round his neck, was fairly overcome
+with joy. On recovering, the old gentleman began a good flow of Norske,
+when poor Lars for the first time realised how long he had been away;
+for, like the Claimant, he could not remember his native language, and
+it was some time before either of them thought of landing. Meanwhile,
+we heartily wish the good Lars increased success. May his bottles be
+manufactured on the spot, and his good _öl_ cheer the heart without
+muddling the brain!
+
+When _we_ entered Christiansand _we_ also looked out for a boat; for
+Hans Luther Jordhoy had come down from Gudbransdalen to meet us, and
+was soon on board. A closely knit frame, fair beard, moderate stature,
+and kindly eye—there stood our future companion before us. Our first
+impressions were never disturbed; he had very good points, and has
+afforded us many pleasing associations in connection with our visit to
+Norge.
+
+As we steamed out of the harbour of Christiansand we met a passenger
+coast steamer coming in—one of those innumerable small screw steamers
+which run in and out of every fjord from Cape Lindesnæs to the North
+Cape. Are their names not written in _Norges Communicationer_, the
+Norwegian _Bradshaw_? The kindly feeling of the Norwegians towards the
+English was at once manifest, for no sooner did the brass band on board
+the excursion boat recognise our nationality than it struck up “God
+save the Queen.” We quite regretted that we had no band to return the
+compliment, and the only thing left for us was to give them a hearty
+cheer.
+
+This done, we started on our run to Christiania, with comparatively
+smooth water, a lovely evening, a prolonged _crepusculum_, and,
+late in the evening, a sweet little French song, sung with the most
+delightful simplicity by a lady. “Petites Fleurs des Bois” is indelibly
+impressed on the mind of the Patriarch. When it afterwards became known
+that we were indebted to an English bride for such a treat—which
+it really was—the bachelors whispered “A happy bond of union!” but
+considered, at the same time, that Norwegian travelling was scarcely
+made on purpose for honeymooning. Take carrioles, for instance, or the
+jolting _stolkjærre_, in which the bride might sometimes find herself
+unceremoniously thrown into the lap of the bridegroom, or _vice versâ_.
+No; unless the lady is familiar with the manners, customs, and petty
+inconveniences attendant on travelling in Norway, that country will not
+prove the happy hunting-ground for honeymoons.
+
+[Illustration: _The Courtyard, Victoria Hotel, Christiania._]
+
+The whole of the Christiania fjord is both grand and immense. A
+decided flutter takes place on board when the town is in sight, and
+preparations are made for disembarkation. Hans Luther had by this
+time made a personal acquaintance with our luggage, and went to the
+Custom House, whither we were soon sent for. Among our possessions
+were discovered certain condiments and preserved provisions unknown to
+the officials, one item especially—pea soup in powder. On our arrival
+we suggested that the unusual product should be tasted. To this the
+official at first demurred, but ultimately yielded. Unfortunately,
+at the very moment of putting the powder to his lips, he drew a long
+breath, which sent the dry powdered pea soup down the wrong way.
+However, after a time he recovered, when doubtlessly he registered a
+mental vow never, never again to taste any foreign importation.
+
+We were soon at the Victoria Hotel, with its quaint courtyard, with
+galleries running round it, excessively tame pigeons hopping and
+perching on all sides, and a reindeer head nailed to the woodwork.
+During the tourist season a large marquee is erected in the centre of
+this courtyard for _tables d’hôte_ and extra meals. In the meantime we
+hurried to our rooms, longing to be out in a boat for a general view of
+the city. A few extras were, however, requisite before starting in real
+earnest, amongst which were two rifle slings. These had to be made,
+and are referred to here because they were the means of initiating us
+into one of the customs of the place. The leather slings were well
+made, but the price was most _tolky_ (exorbitant). This led to a mild
+remonstrance, upon which the saddler wrote us a remarkable letter,
+which it is a pity we cannot present _verbatim_. It was to the effect
+that the saddler was happy to serve us well, but thinking we were
+English gentlemen, he imagined we should prefer giving English prices.
+However, if we merely wished to pay in accordance with the Norwegian
+tariff, it would only be so much, which was precisely the amount we did
+pay.
+
+Christiania has a population of about seventy thousand, and owes
+its modern appearance to the destruction of the old town by fire.
+Nowadays the suburbs extend widely all round it, while to the westward
+villas reach almost to Oscar’s Hall, an object of interest distinctly
+visible both from the town and the fortress, being only about four
+miles distant by land, and half that amount by water. The villa,
+with its high tower, is the property of the King, and is rich in the
+native talent of Tidemand, who was the national genre painter of his
+day. There are magnificent views of the fjord, bay, and surrounding
+mountains from all points, whether high or low, from the fortress or
+from the Egeberg, from the tower of the church in the market-place,
+or, farther off, from the Frogner Sæter and the Skougemsaas. For the
+latter, however, a long day should be taken.
+
+[Illustration: _Christiania._]
+
+To visit Oscar’s Hall the most pleasant way is to take a boat and row
+across. This was suggested by Hans, and we were glad to find that
+he took kindly to boat work, as he came from Gudbransdalen, which
+is inland. More pleased, however, were we to discover, when about
+half-way across, that Hans was gradually bursting out into song,
+singing in a clear voice one of Kjerulf’s sweetest compositions,
+which we give in part at the end of the chapter. There is a plaintive
+sweetness throughout it, and the beauty of the evening, coupled with
+the surprise, caused us to anticipate many future repetitions, as
+nothing, when travelling, is more humanising and soothing than vocal or
+instrumental music.
+
+[Illustration: _A Timber Shoot._]
+
+The University, the Storthing, museums, and Mr. Bennett have already
+been frequently described: still just one word. Every Englishman is
+received by Mr. Bennett, who carries out his slightest wish. We only
+called to see him, and get some _smaapenge_; for if we had not, no one
+would have believed that we had been to Norway. Before the country
+was well opened Mr. Bennett must have been of the greatest service to
+visitors.
+
+During our very short stay we had an excellent opportunity of judging
+of the character of the people when collected in masses. There were
+to be a great procession of guilds and all kinds of things at the New
+Palace. These we attended, and very gratified we were to find how
+orderly the good folk were; how quiet, and yet with what a sense of
+comfortable enjoyment, if we may use the term; no excitement, but a
+cheerful interest in all that was going on; no crushing, no rush of
+roughs. If such were the case in large towns, we considered it augured
+well for the provinces.
+
+Between Christiania and Kongsberg much timber is seen wending its way
+down to the fjord. An instance of a _timber jam_ after a shoot is
+given in the accompanying illustration. Sometimes trees are torn away
+at flood-time. The regular timber is duly marked and started, and at
+certain periods of the year persons follow the course of the river for
+the purpose of releasing the _jams_ and helping the timber on its way
+to Drammen, where it is shipped for all parts of the world.
+
+Little is said here of the cities of Christiania, Bergen, and
+Trondhjem, as our path lies in the open, the fjeld life, _sæters_,
+peasants, and sport. Our delight is to live out of the present century
+in fresh air and simplicity, where trolds might cross our path, where
+we might see the lovely Huldre, the beauty who had the unfortunate
+appendage of a cow’s tail, which, when exposed to view, was the signal
+for her to vanish into thin air, or where Odin and Thor had had great
+_jagt_, and killed bears, elks, gluttons, and wolves. The scenes we
+longed for were those in which pagan rites had been carried out with
+all the grandeur of mighty warriors and priests worthy of Valhalla;
+wherein Vikings, after deeds of valour, were laid low, and buried with
+great solemnity and becoming pomp in their own war vessels, with their
+treasure, their arms, and their hunting-gear about them, waiting for
+the call to glory.
+
+[Music: INGRIDS VISE.
+
+    RENDYR CHORUS.
+
+    Music by H. KJERULF.                Words by BJØRNSON.
+
+      Og Ræ-ven laa under Birke-rod bortved Lyn-get, bortved
+      Lyn-get, og Haren hoppede paa lette Fod o-ver Lyn-get, o-ver
+          Lyn-get. “Det
+      er vel no-get til Sol-skins dag! det glitt-rer for og det
+      glitt-rer bag over Lyn-get, over Lyn-get!”]
+
+
+
+
+                                  II.
+                             THELEMARKEN.
+
+  LYSTHUS—COMPONENT PARTS OF TRAVEL—HITTERDAL CHURCH—THE
+      CHAIR—THE CAMP AT SKEJE—FLATDAL—RELICS OF THE PAST—THE
+      ASTONISHED MAGPIE AND UNKNOWN MUSIC—THE COSTUMES OF
+      THELEMARKEN—THE “HULDRE”—THE BEAUTIFUL TROLD—BERGE AND
+      THE MANGLETRÆ—MOGEN—THE PLOUGH, REIN HORNS, AND SNOW
+      SHOES—BOCKLEY AND PUKKINGS—BLACK-BROWN BEER—JAMSGAARD—A
+      NIGHT IN THE LAAVE—CAMP BEDS AND HAMMOCK—BOTTEN—NEW
+      ROAD-MAKING—WEIRD SCOTCH FIRS—A BLASTED FOREST.
+
+
+Thelemarken is a large district, lying in the south-east of Norway,
+north of Sætersdalen, which is the most southern part of the kingdom.
+It is characterized by forest, costume, and wood-carving, the latter
+being applied on a large scale to the external decoration of houses,
+and especially to the storehouse, which is always a separate building
+of one story, and locally called the _stabur_. On the exterior of
+this structure is lavished all the carving talent and energy of the
+proprietor and his friends; while inside will be found good old
+coffers, containing the silver and the tankards, the brooches and
+the bridal crown, which is handed down from generation to generation
+amongst the _bönder_, or farmers. A public parochial crown is sometimes
+to be heard of, and may be seen at the lawyer’s, for that profession is
+known in Norway; and, when litigation commences, it is impossible to
+guess the time over which it may extend. But to return to wood-carving,
+so important a feature in the dwellings of the inhabitants of this
+part. A fine specimen of carved lintel, or side-post, is in existence
+near Lysthus, displaying wonderful solidity, and a flowing Runic design
+extremely difficult to copy. How was it originated? What was the
+_motif_ of the design? After making a careful study of it, it appears
+to be the result of “eyes”—generally associated without hooks—being
+kept to themselves, and interlaced, one following the other. On trying
+this, it was found to be practicable and most successful. Talking
+over this glorious old work with the good housewife, she called her
+husband, who went off to the _stabur_, and, quickly returning, told me
+there was a very old and handsome pair of these lintels lying under
+the “provision house,” and begged me to accept them in recollection of
+my visit, and take them back to my own home, that they might give me
+pleasure there. Great was my wish to accept them, but the difficulty of
+transit soon flashed across my mind. Our route lay over the Haukelid,
+with hours of snow—ponies sinking in, and perhaps through. So the
+transit being impossible, I tendered my thanks for the kindly offer. It
+was with much regret that I did so, but what could be done hundreds of
+miles from home, and just starting over the roughest mountain tracts
+to the north-west of Norway? Nothing but a grateful negative, and a
+suggestion that they should be given to the next nice young couple who
+were starting housekeeping. The principal carving, as we have already
+observed, is lavished on the storehouses; and as soon as a loving
+couple are engaged, the man begins to build his nest, with nothing much
+but his axe for strong work and a knife for ornamentation. The latter
+instrument is most adroitly used by the peasants, cutting all sweeping
+curves, with the left-hand thumb used as a lever. The house-building
+is characterized by large timbers squared, afterwards calked with
+moss, and the ends crossing. As will be hereafter shown, the timbers
+are generally numbered externally up to twelve, so that they may be
+easily rebuilt should occasion arise to remove the house elsewhere.
+Looking at these immense solid timbers, what a contrast they present to
+modern work; how like their sturdy forefathers, who worked so solidly;
+how unlike the feather-edged boarding of the new half-civilised houses
+which are now being introduced near towns, and are flimsiness itself,
+and only carpenter’s shoddy!
+
+[Illustration: _Norwegian Carved Lintels._]
+
+[Illustration: _Carved House in Thelemarken._]
+
+Kongsberg is a city of rushing waters, or rather a small town; and
+approaching it is suggestive of proximity to a seltzer-water bottle
+with the cork partially out. The river rushes, splutters, fumes,
+foams, and steams; huge sticks, fir poles, and stems battling their
+way down the broken waters to Drammen, preparatory to their being
+shipped for the warmer and drier sphere of civilisation and circular
+saws. Some three English miles below Kongsberg is the Labro Fos, which
+is very interesting, and well worth visiting, inasmuch as it affords
+an admirable opportunity of seeing the timber shoot the Fos—large
+fir-stems sometimes coming clean over the fall into the roar below.
+
+[Illustration: _Carved Houses, Bru, Thelemarken._]
+
+Kongsberg is a centre of interest, as close by are found the silver
+mines which have for ages supplied the raw material for the _gamle
+sölv_, such as silver crowns, belts, cups, tankards, and all the
+endless variety of ornament for which Gamle Norge has been, and is,
+so famous. However, we will not now enter into this subject, but will
+merely mention that interesting specimens of this class of work are to
+be found in England, souvenirs of travel which are highly prized by the
+happy possessors and their friends also. The silver is not considered
+very pure, but the old designs are very grand and admirable. The modern
+specimens, and especially those in filigree, are far inferior, being
+poor in design and unsubstantial.
+
+[Illustration: _Kongsberg: Thelemarken._]
+
+Forests are most typical of Thelemarken, and very suggestive of bears
+in winter, a season much more severe here than in some other parts
+of Norway, as the district is away east, beyond the influence of
+the gulf-stream. It is a curious fact that directly an Englishman
+arrives in Thelemarken everybody seems to have seen bears, or, to be
+more precise, to have had visions of bears. That there are bears is
+certain. A sport-loving Oxonian last year was disappointed of a bear
+in the north, and, coming south on his return to shoot blackcock, had
+lighted his pipe and was walking quietly back when he saw a bear! He
+was seventy yards off, and had only one cartridge. He fired. Bruin,
+falling back on his haunches, put out his “embracers,” and rushed
+forward for the “hug,” when he gave a roll and fell backwards—dead.
+He was a splendid beast, judging from the skin. What a trophy to bring
+home! “What luck!” some said. On his return, the fortunate hunter—who,
+by-the bye, was a week later than he should have been—heard the
+momentous words from his dear parent, “Well, sir, where is the bear you
+went out to shoot in Norway?” “Have you not seen it? It’s in the hall.”
+“Oh, my dear boy, I am so delighted—so glad! Come, let us have the
+skin up here. Send for mamma. This is capital!” How much nicer it is
+to bring home a bear-skin than to have to say, “Didn’t shoot one!” Who
+does not know what zest there always is in success?
+
+The costume of the district is worn in every-day life, by the farmers
+as well as the peasants; in fact, the farmers, or _bönder_, are very
+proud of their dress. First and foremost is the typical white jacket,
+with light blue facings and silver buttons; blue collars, blue pocket
+flaps, with silver buttons also; the jacket turned well back, with a
+light blue _revers_, as I think the ladies call it. But the great
+characteristic of the jacket is not to be too long; the _ton_ only have
+the back to come down just below the shoulder-blade; and, as the black
+trousers rush up to meet the curtailed garment, one can imagine the
+vast area of black trouser before arriving at the foot of the figure;
+it really makes them all look out of drawing.
+
+The women wear a chocolate-coloured handkerchief cleverly twisted round
+the head and falling down the back, with the hair plaited; and well
+they look with their fair hair and ribbons, their homespun or _vadmel_
+petticoats closely kilt-plaited, old silver brooches and studs, and
+sometimes silk handkerchiefs as aprons, with coloured cinctures, the
+bodice with dark ground and flowers, crewel-worked, in relief. Near
+Lysthus the costume is nearly all blue, a kind of short frock-coat,
+with dark blue trouser-gaiters, embroidered up the side with yellow and
+scarlet; but this is not a successful phase of costume.
+
+On Sunday every variety is seen, and the additional interest of lake
+travelling is met with—namely, the raft boats, consisting of seven
+stems of trees, the longest in the middle, the six cut shorter, like
+organ pipes; midships a seat for one; while the oars are tied in with
+green birch twigs with the leaves on. How suggestive of early lake
+habitation, and yet how like a modern outrigger; for there is only room
+for one and a _fine_, or provision box, from which a Norwegian, male or
+female, is inseparable.
+
+The shortness of the jackets is shown in an illustration which
+represents a custom peculiar to this part, namely, smoking the cows
+(see p. 36). Many travellers have complained of the flies in Norway,
+and now even Norwegian cows object to them, and the farm folk, in
+kindly sympathy, make fires of juniper, the smoke of which is unwelcome
+to the mosquitoes. Into this smoke the cows are only too glad to go,
+and being well flavoured with juniper, are ready to start forth for the
+day, regardless of their little winged enemies. We speak from practical
+experience when we add that the traveller likewise will be rather
+benefited by participating in the process.
+
+Here, perhaps, it would be as well to refer to the hour-glass under
+the initial letter at the commencement of the chapter. It is composed
+of brass, and placed by the side of the pulpit, which is opposite
+to the King’s pew or box in the church at Kongsberg. There are four
+hour-glasses—quarter, half, three-quarters, and hour; so the domine,
+or minister, turns the glass before commencing his discourse, and the
+congregation knows how long he will continue. At Tönsberg there is a
+curious mural historical souvenir, consisting of the top of a stool let
+into the wall, on which may be read the following:—
+
+“In the year 1589, being the 11th day of November, came the well-born
+gentleman, Mr. Jacobus Stuart, King of Scotland: and the 25th Sunday
+after Trinity, which was the 16th day of November, he sat on this stool
+and heard a preaching from the 23rd Psalm, ‘The Lord is my Shepherd.’
+Mr. David Lentz preached, and he preached between 10 and 12.”
+
+[Illustration: _The Raft Boat: Thelemarken._]
+
+This “well-born gentleman” was evidently James the First of England and
+Sixth of Scotland, who married Anne of Denmark, sister of Christian IV.
+
+Leaving Lysthus, we settled down for steady travelling in that most
+delightful style, namely, with our tents and luggage, sometimes in
+a _stolkjær_, or country cart, sometimes with ponies only. Such
+independence, such health-giving enjoyment, can hardly be obtained
+under different circumstances. The travellers in this case were three,
+happily organized in the following manner. They might for the nonce
+be called Brown, Jones, and Robinson, as a tribute of respect to the
+originals in the “Primer or Spelling Book,” published in 1790, where
+those now world-known names are first found associated. Let us rather
+go with the times, and number them—a treatment now general in hotels,
+both at home and abroad.
+
+So, to commence, No. 1 was the youngest, and unanimously elected
+Paymaster-general. Polyglot in his knowledge of languages, he shone
+when asked to explain: then came such volleys of Norske, German,
+Danish, Swedish, French, Italian, all in one flowing Norskey catena,
+that, if people did not understand them, they felt they ought to,
+and acted accordingly. All this was carried out with the dash of a
+Zouave, and garnished with a profound knowledge of music and brilliant
+execution on the piano. How we longed sometimes for a pocket piano! No.
+1’s great _forte_ was enthusiasm for fishing—trout, salmon, greyling,
+and split-cane fly-rods. Tradition says that he has often in his
+sleep talked of “blue doctors,” “large butchers,” and “black doses,”
+these sounds having been heard in the small hours of the morning
+zephyring from his tent with nasal accompaniments; but he was always
+equal to the occasion, even when some one had landed with the luggage
+by mistake. “Never mind, my dear boy; sure to find it; most honest,
+charming people, these Norwegians—never lose anything.” Such were the
+comforting words which emanated from No. 1 when he understood that No.
+3 had lost his luggage; but when he found that it was his own a change
+came over the spirit of his dream. The polyglot vocabulary was soon
+launched, the fire of the Zouave flared up, a carriole was ordered,
+and the pursuit commenced, which happily ended in the recovery of the
+wandering impedimenta, when Richard became himself again.
+
+No. 2 was Tentmaster-general, and a sportsman to the core. Reindeer,
+salmon, and Gamle Norge—these he had chronically on the brain,
+mixed up with a great love of old tankards and a yearning for silver
+belts and _gammelt sölv_. Once in his Norfolk jacket and knickers, _pua
+de höie fjelde_, how happy was he! rejoicing in the _friske luft_,
+mountain air, and snow peaks (_snebræer_), ready for any amount of
+fatigue, and always willing to cook first and eat afterwards. A rare
+good man was the Tentmaster.
+
+[Illustration: _Hitterdal Church: Sunday Morning._]
+
+No. 3 was generally known as “the Locust,” from his constant appetite
+for all kinds of food, and general thirst for knowledge about
+everything connected with Norway. Note-book in hand, he was ever
+jotting down everything, even to catching mosquitoes between the leaves
+of it, so as to bring home the real thing. Still No. 3 had an important
+duty to perform. As the travellers were three, he was allowed the
+casting vote—a most wholesome arrangement, as he was a married man,
+and consequently likely to be useful in some weighty matters. Happily,
+to the credit of No. 1 and No. 2, the exercise of No. 3’s prerogative
+was never called for, and by the end of the trip was looked on as a
+sinecure. Still he always travelled ready to apply “a touch of the
+oil feather”—one of the best companions a traveller can have ready
+to hand. May many such trios have a trip of such great yet simple
+enjoyment, such health, and such pleasing diversion of thought! It is
+a joy to fall back upon throughout life, and the longer the life the
+greater the relish of recollection.
+
+Hitterdal Church is one of the two wooden churches of which Norway
+can boast, the other being that of Borgund. They are built of wood,
+Byzantine-Gothic, _on dit_, but grotesque and pagodaist in form. The
+old porches are grandly carved with serpents, dragons, and Runic
+interlacings. The church itself at Hitterdal is nothing like so quaint
+or picturesque as that at Borgund, neither is it so weird; still, its
+early carving forms a noble monument to come down to us, and at once
+draws forth the admiration, not only of the antiquarian, but of the
+casual passer-by. The lintels at the entrance are especially beautiful.
+The bell-tower is unusually detached, in this case being placed on
+the other side of the highway. Unfortunately, time prevented a more
+detailed sketch of the old chair or seat given on page 29: it stands in
+the church by the altar, and is considered episcopal, but the date is
+most likely _circa_ 900. What grand solidity of form! Vikingly to a
+degree, and fit for Thor or Odin. There is a great air of majesty about
+it.
+
+The roof of the church is also of wood, carved in the same way as many
+of the churches in Sussex, and covered with small wooden tiles, if
+that term may be used to describe the process which in that county is
+generally known as “shingling.”
+
+[Illustration: _Porch at Hitterdal: Thelemarken._]
+
+The churchyard is very interesting, and the grave-boards have a
+peculiar form worthy of notice; for this reason one is introduced
+here. The shape of the upper part is that of a cross, but below come
+up two horns, rising right and left. These horns have a kind of anchor
+form; and what could be a more appropriate emblem in a country so
+sea-bound as Norge? The blending of Faith and Hope is, I think, most
+poetically suggested. Can we do better here than pay a tribute of
+respect to the beautiful simplicity of the religious character of the
+Norwegian peasantry? Their love of God and their reverence for religion
+are refreshing, and offer a good lesson to many who rejoice in mere
+flourish of external worship. We shall have occasion to refer to the
+curious anomaly of Roman Catholic vestments continued in the present
+day in the Lutheran service, but allusion may now be made to the happy
+link which exists between the ministers and people. This is shown in
+the character of the sermons, the whole tone of which seems to aim at
+binding the parish together in Christian love and sympathy, bearing
+each other’s burdens, caring for one another, and curbing self—the
+most difficult of all tasks, as it comes nearest home, and is in itself
+so antagonistic to the inclinations of human nature. The whole climate
+rather tends to develop this frame of mind: there is a certain sedate
+expression throughout the provinces; the long darkness of winter,
+extending its influence even into the continuous light of the northern
+summer, brings every one into close and constant proximity, whilst the
+mountains isolate the valleys one from the other without any access.
+Still, when the summer comes and the whole energy of vegetation
+bursts out at once, how their gladdened hearts rejoice! They pluck
+these outbursts of beauty and revived nature, and joyously take them
+to the house of God—no mere form or ritual, but the wholesome outcome
+of heartfelt, unsophisticated joy and gratitude for brightness after
+lengthened gloom and months of pent-up feeling.
+
+[Illustration: _Chair in Hitterdal Church._]
+
+Leaving Hitterdal, we were off in earnest for the Hardanger, with
+a grand country before us. The first night we pulled up at Skeje.
+Before coming to our resting-place at the end of the lake, we noticed
+the saw-mills and corn-mills (seven, one above the other); not that
+torrents are scarce in Norway, but in this valley there was employment.
+Arrived at Skeje, our Tentmaster having selected his spot, tents were
+pitched, and everything put ship-shape for the night. The only milk we
+could get was goat’s milk, and _fladbröd_ in abundance. It is, perhaps,
+superfluous to mention here that _fladbröd_ can be made very toothsome
+by drying it before the fire: the peasants keep it in a state ready for
+travelling, with the means of folding it up so as not to be shaken into
+dust by the jolting of the _stolkjær_, which certainly would be the
+case had it been fit for eating. The smoke of our fire had gone up, and
+after our meal and a chat with our neighbours we turned in. A strange
+dog came into the Patriarch’s tent, and eventually curled himself up
+for the night, and, as a mark of gratitude for welcome, woke him in the
+morning by licking his face.
+
+Next day brought us on to Flatdal. Looking over that grand, deep
+valley, we halted awhile at a picturesque wooden house: we asked
+for milk, which was brought forthwith, and it was goat’s milk. The
+daughter, as it was Saturday afternoon, was engaged plaiting her two
+long tails ready for the morrow. The good mother had a very fine
+antique silver brooch, and the proprietor one also on his shirt-front,
+and after we had drunk our milk they showed us their rooms, which
+were most interesting, and dated very far back; for traces of the
+fact presented themselves on all sides, especially in the harness and
+elaborately carved horse-collars, which bore the crest of a lion’s
+head on an escutcheon—evidently belonging to the days of aristocratic
+Norway.
+
+[Illustration: _Flatdal: Thelemarken._]
+
+We had bivouacked on a green lawn near the village, close to a house
+which was a carriole station. Our three tents were a novelty, and our
+cooking at last brought a crowd around us; but we must say that the
+people were most kindly and considerate towards us. They had never seen
+such a thing before, and hated _fanter_, tinkers, and gipsies, which
+nearly included all wanderers in tents: such latter were we.
+
+Next we inspected the _loom_, where a daughter was hard at work. There
+were a fine old bed, with inscription, and many spinning-wheels, highly
+coloured (green, red, and blue and white, with black). It is a pity an
+illustration of this room cannot be given in colour. We descended into
+the _dal_: the heat was intense, no air below, and a pandemonium of
+flies. Bathing under the wheel of a mill was a temporary relief: our
+torment was renewed at lunch. But we were out to enjoy ourselves; so
+we did, in spite of mosquitoes. At lunch we cooked some of the trout
+our chief had killed _en route_, which that day numbered thirty. We
+were immensely amused here by noticing the very comic and inquiring
+expression in a magpie while listening, for the first time probably,
+to the English snore with which one of our party favoured us on this
+occasion, putting his head first on one side and then on the other,
+then taking a hop, and, when the music broke into a staccato bass
+passage, hopping back still more interested, until it finally flew
+off. Magpies are the sacred birds of the land, and are regarded as the
+private property of his Satanic Majesty.
+
+After a long day and a mid-day meal, during which we were devoured by
+mosquitoes until nothing was left of us but our monograms, we arrived
+late in the evening in front of a farmhouse at Sillejord. It was
+Saturday night, and no room in the house, but an open space close by,
+most inviting for tents. In the twinkling of an eye the Tentmaster
+issued his order, each man had his tent laid out, and up they went
+simultaneously, to the astonishment of the natives. Was it a sort of
+fair, only read of in books? Was it the first germ of the great Russian
+fair of Nijni Novgorod? Was it one of the lost tribes of Israel come
+down from the clouds? Or were we Germans, who, having already annexed
+Denmark, had just run on with a message from Prince Bismarck to say
+that Norway also was annexed? No; the peasants rather looked on at a
+respectful distance, with a certain openness of mouth and absence of
+expression. By this time, the tents being up, beds laid, saddle-bags
+in places, and guns hung on tent-pole with telescope, food had to be
+thought of, and the canteen business looked after. The canteen was well
+organized and an old traveller—almost self-acting; so accustomed to
+the names of Fortnum and Mason’s tinned soups, &c., that the very words
+“mock-turtle” made it burn and bristle up to a really good fire. That
+night we had good lake trout; and how welcome, with our then appetites,
+the mock-turtle! Three cheers for Fortnum and Mason! And then the
+_mörbradsteg_! Some of our readers have never been introduced to those
+satisfying and necessary pleasures of life; if not, let us explain.
+_Mörbradsteg_ and other good things in tins come from Stavanger in
+Norway, which is great in potted meats, _ryper_, tins of all kinds of
+preserved things, soups, lobsters, &c., and these _mörbrader_. The
+inquiring mind may ask, “But _mörbrader_—what is it? how made?” All
+I can say is, that it was so good we thought we had no time to ask
+what it was: perfect in flavour, solid in substance, very satisfying
+to the most energetic of gastric juices, and wholesome. Three cheers,
+therefore, for Stavanger! Then came wild strawberries, brought by dear
+little children in costume, who had already begun to go through the
+process of purification ready for Sunday, biscuits and Dutch cheese,
+and a _skaal_ for Gamle Norge. After this we followed the suggestion of
+the good motto, “Rest and be thankful,” and then some hunters’ songs.
+
+The following day (Sunday) was a curious scene; everybody came to
+look at us. All the characteristics of national costume, as worn in
+Thelemarken, were in full force. Let us first describe the _piger_,
+or girls. They wear very short petticoats, and most becoming and
+picturesque they are; dark blue stockings with lovely clocks, and
+buckles on their shoes; the apron is embroidered with what now would be
+called crewel patterns of flowers; while a little below the waist is a
+rich many-coloured girdle, ending in knobs of tassels of the brightest
+colours. The top of the petticoat is bound with a bright colour, and
+shown, as the scarlet jacket, which is frequent in this district, is as
+short as the men’s, coming only a little below the shoulder-blades.
+Tucked inside the girdle is generally seen a rich silk handkerchief,
+and in some cases two. The head-dress is another silk handkerchief, and
+into the tail of the back hair more colour is worked. On week days they
+wear large gaiters, like cloth trousers, which certainly attracted our
+attention when first seen.
+
+Now for the lads of the village. They are not one tittle behind
+the girls in the pains they take as to their points, especially
+these—shortness of jacket, length of trouser, and brightness of
+colour. At Dabord they all adopted the shaven cheek, upper lip, and
+chin. The jacket is generally white, very short, as in Sætersdalen,
+just coming below the shoulder-blades: this curious garment is turned
+back at the cuffs and _revers_ with light blue, the effect being
+heightened by silver buttons. The trousers are very curious—a fact
+necessitated by the shortness of the superstructure. The expanse of
+back is prodigious from the shoulder-blades downwards, they are wide in
+the leg, and generally have a stripe down the side. The short coatee
+affords a grand display of tolle-knives, the handles of which, in this
+part, are generally made of _lom_ (maple), smooth, and uncarved, and
+deep in the sheath. In most cases they are suspended from a button, and
+not from a belt; in fact, belts are not of very frequent occurrence
+here. Skull-caps and hats are worn by the men, and the richest farmers
+maintain the national costume of the district. In some few instances
+for weddings the white jacket is daintily touched up with a little
+worked flower here and there on the edge and corner, which gives great
+finish. The clocks on the men’s stockings are very rich: these are worn
+on fête days with breeches, which are worked in red and white round
+the buttons and up the seams. The garters are always objects of great
+taste and careful arrangement. It is when the holiday costumes are worn
+that the beautiful and mysterious Huldre appears, generally frequenting
+the mountains and forests, but sometimes joining in the festive dances
+of the mountaineers. When she vouchsafes this favour every young
+_bonde_ is eager to dance with her—the handsome strange girl with the
+blue petticoat, and white handkerchief over her head. Tradition does
+not enlighten us much about this beauty, and the story of her sudden
+disappearance immediately her cow-tail is discovered is cruel. Why
+does she come to Thelemarken, where the skirts are so short, sometimes
+only reaching the knee? If she be so fond of dancing, why not frequent
+country balls? Or she would be safer with a train of the present
+fashion; even if that were trodden on, her tail would be safe. Having
+noticed the general costume, let us enjoy the day of rest.
+
+The brightness of the morning favoured our _al fresco_ toilets, and
+one of our party (who carried a dressing-case full of wonderful
+things, and generally known in the list of impedimenta as “Somebody’s
+luggage”) became the centre of attraction. In front of his tent were
+laid out a waterproof sheet and a saddle-bag, partially opened and
+supported at the back; the latter sustained the looking-glass, in
+front of which knelt a figure shaving (No. 1). Now, although the
+Norwegians shave almost universally, there was something about our
+friend’s manipulations which took the fancy of all present. The girls
+giggled; the short ones tried to peep between the tall ones. Why? Did
+the performer pull his own nose to a greater length than usual in this
+country when he took the long sweep down his cheek? Hardly. The fact
+was, the good folk thought the whole thing was but an overture to
+some other performance, and that the dressing-case, with its numerous
+silver-topped glass bottles, contained all kinds of medicines, panaceas
+for everything—cures for gout, sciatica, tic douloureux, trichinæ
+spirales, hypochondria, dipsomania, and every other mania.
+
+After the shaving came a pause. A fortunate inquiry for old silver
+ornaments now changed the whole scene, and for the rest of the day, at
+intervals, the _penates_ of the neighbourhood were being brought for
+our edification. Some of the old brooches were remarkably beautiful;
+the rings were very characteristic, some having small pendant rings,
+some with the usual cup ornaments; and when it was discovered that much
+interest was taken in old costumes, we had really a treat—embroideries
+on _vanter_, or winter gloves without fingers, eider-down cloaks,
+swaddling-bands, babies’ caps, worked aprons, the open-work at the
+lower part being admirable in design. A wish was expressed to see a
+baby ready swaddled for baptism. Unhappily, there was no such thing
+to be had within miles upon miles; but rather than “the Locust”
+should be disappointed, these good people dressed up a woollen one,
+which answered every purpose, and was considered a great success.
+The kindness of the people was very striking; a certain shy curiosity
+characterized their movements at first, but they soon settled down
+to taking every possible pains to oblige us and meet our wants. It
+seemed very odd, however, to see a church so near, and yet no service.
+How was it, when we saw almost enough people to form a congregation?
+It happened thus. The _præstegaard_, or clergyman’s house, is at the
+central church, which often has two or three _annexer_—small churches,
+each eighteen or twenty miles from the principal one; the services,
+therefore, are only held about every third Sunday in each church.
+Well educated, well read, and, much like the old fathers, revered
+and well beloved by their flocks, the clergy lead a hard life. The
+vast extent of their parishes or districts is very trying to their
+health, necessitating long drives, and in winter much severe sledge
+work; while on the coast there is such boat work that the minister and
+doctor of the locality seem more like “old salts” than members of those
+professions. I remember particularly one clergyman, whose _annex_ was
+on a group of islands off the coast. As the steamer passed she swung
+round a point, when a boat came off to us, with a grand figure standing
+up steering her. From beneath an old sou’-wester streamed his white
+hair, grandly blown back, and he wore silver spectacles, large muffler
+round his throat, oilskin coat and trousers, and long sea boots. As
+the boat neared the steamer and was turned to the gangway, a sailor
+on board said, “Now, sir, you’ll see one of the fine old sort; this,
+sir, is the priest, and not a better seaman will you find all along
+the coast—nor a better man.” No wonder religion takes so simple and
+earnest a form when its exponents practically exemplify, in their
+every-day life, its sublime teachings with a simplicity, energy, and
+dignity far beyond the conception of those working in densely populated
+districts; for the priest, although but an occasional visitor to some
+parts, is a source of comfort and sympathy to all in their trouble, and
+enters with the greatest interest into their rejoicings and pleasures,
+whether they be public or domestic. In this way their relations with
+their flocks are most “good shepherd-like,” and their constant care and
+solicitude for their parishioners rivet the love and confidence of
+all around them. No doubt these relations are materially assisted by
+the tolerably equal distribution of this world’s goods in spots remote
+from busy towns; or rather, to speak more correctly, by the absence
+of wealth and the even-manneredness of all such Norwegian residents.
+Any stranger visiting Norway will be struck with the large Elizabethan
+frill worn by the priest, which, with the sombre black gown, and the
+two candlesticks constantly kept on the altar ready to be lighted on
+three occasions—generally Christmas, the end of the forty days, and
+Easter—imparts a very mediæval character to the service. All that we
+have here said of the relations of the clergy with their congregations
+is abundantly confirmed by the homely way in which the former give
+out the notices from the altar as to the working of the parish or
+the schools, or any extra communion, when requested by any of the
+parishioners.
+
+[Illustration: _Smoking the Cows: Thelemarken._]
+
+[Illustration: _Jamsgaard Laave._]
+
+Going to Berge from Sillejord, we had torrents of rain—a deluge: we
+now approached higher ground and a blacker country. Snow ploughs on the
+side of the road told tales of wintry difficulty of transit, while
+sledges were round most of the houses. Arrived at the station, we
+found one small bedroom with strong store-closet atmosphere, game lost,
+&c. In the _vand_ are perch; in the river, greyling. The hunter and
+_bonde_ here was building a large room, which, though still unfinished,
+we decided to sleep in. We soon had a roaring fire; the beds were made,
+the Patriarch slinging his hammock under a huge carpenter’s bench;
+then came the cooking, followed by a few songs; and finally stories of
+bears, wolves, wild cats, and lynxes from the _bonde_. There was a very
+fine old _mangletræ_ here, two feet long. So peculiar an instrument
+of Norwegian household necessity is deserving of explanation: it is
+two feet long and four inches wide: B represents the things
+to be mangled; C the roller; the right hand of the mangler
+takes hold of the lion at D, and the left hand on A
+balances the _mangletræ_, which is worked backwards and forwards until
+the things are done. _Mem._—Last night reindeer were seen above here;
+and at the _vand_, high over this place, the _bonde_ had seen a glutton
+after a wounded or sick reindeer. The chief brought in three trout for
+breakfast. Now the real life was bursting on us. How we drank in the
+stories of the hunter, rising in the morning to delight in the health
+and beauties about us!
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At Mogen we found more signs of winter—sledges abundant, and one
+pigsty kind of hut surmounted by a wonderful group: snow shoes, old
+reindeer horns and heads, sledges, and a plough.[1] This is primitive;
+but it is not all: there were the old querns, or _haandkværn_. In spite
+of this we had not shaken the influence of travelling civilisation;
+the _bonde_ asked us if we would like some “Bockley and Pukking’s
+black-brown beer.” Certainly. “Men hvor meget?” Two and sixpence per
+bottle: it had been left by an Englishman. Eheu, what an anomaly!
+
+  [1] The iron of this plough is exactly the same as the hand-plough, or
+“casarhome,” used in the Western Highlands, and now fast disappearing.
+
+JAMSGAARD.—This was such an evening: north wind strong, bad
+for tents; large lawn discovered, camp inside; camp beds fitted up,
+cooking outside. The hammock was slung. How the north wind whistled,
+until we barricaded that side with hay! Then we all slept. In the
+morning we were to start early, and the perfect dignity with which the
+page entered the dormitory, with coffee for all, was truly a picture.
+We got a very good pony here, a true _bakken_, with black-centred hog
+mane, and zebra-marked legs, and started in lovely weather by the
+crystally clear Totak Vand, where we saw a large white owl; then to the
+larger Toftland, and on to Botten. We are now in snow-shoe land, with
+spills of birch-wood for pipes, and more mills, one over the other,
+for grinding. Grouge Kirk was interesting; and we saw a woman rowing
+over with homespun, to be sent to some commercial centre. Starting
+in a _stolkjær_, Botten is a good high-latitude station: bleak to a
+degree. The snow was close to the house, but within all one could wish:
+preserved meat, reindeer flesh, port wine, but no white bread; looms,
+spinning-wheels, snow shoes; many old ale bowls, saddles, carved boxes;
+and, at one end of the barn, boughs of trees brought up from the _dal_
+for the magpies to build in; at the other end a bunch of wheat, also
+brought up and placed on a pole for the birds. After leaving Botten we
+started for Haukelid Sæter, and found the men working on a new road
+to the Hardanger. As they progress, large monoliths are put up at
+intervals with the date of construction, and sometimes the elevation
+above the sea; here it is 2,800 feet, and at this point very large
+Scotch firs are found in skeleton state, monuments of a past period of
+giants.
+
+
+
+
+                                 III.
+                              HARDANGER.
+
+  HAUKELID—SLAUGHTER OF REINDEER IN A BOTTEN—THE BROKEN
+      BRIDGE—THE FORD—USEFUL OLD PONY—THE ASCENT—ROLDAL VALLEY
+      AND BRIDGE—THE LENSMAND—FLORA AND LONG TRAMP—DOUBLE SOLAR
+      RAINBOW—SNOW SHOES—GRÖNDAL AND DISTANT FOLGEFOND—ZIGZAG
+      ROAD—SELJESTAD—NO FOOD, BUT A GOOD PONY—GRÖNDAL
+      WATERFALLS—SANDEN VAND—THE LATE ARRIVAL AT ODDE.
+
+
+The Haukelid Sæter is 3,500 feet above the sea. Here we had the
+pleasure of meeting the Norwegian engineer of the road, and in the
+_vand_ below were floating masses of ice. In the morning the _vand_ was
+frozen (July 15), so that we could not cross in a boat, but had to go
+round. Near this was the scene of a reindeer slaughter by natives: they
+had a Remington breech-loading rifle; drove a herd into a _botten_, or
+_cul-de-sac_, and shot forty in six days—nine in one day; but we shall
+refer to this later on. On our journey we found the bridge carried
+away, and had to ford, which was great fun. We sent a knowing old pony
+over first. How we enjoyed it—one might have taken us for schoolboys
+out for a holiday—in and out of the water! One poor pony, however, did
+not find it agree with him, the ice-water was so cold, and for a time
+he was very bad indeed.
+
+Once more in the flat of the valley, it seemed like old times, and we
+thought a hearty meal at Seljestad would do us good. In the latter
+respect, however, we were doomed to disappointment, meeting with
+nothing but picturesqueness and some costume, in which red bodices
+were conspicuous; so we had to fall back on potted meats and biscuits.
+Whilst waiting we saw some peasants _en route_ for their _sæter_, with
+all their milk apparatus. The only good thing we got was a pony—a
+beauty—to go down this grand valley, and drive, one may say, through
+the Laathe Fos. At this point there are three falls in view of each
+other—Laathe Fos, Espeland Fos, and Hildal Fos. This we enjoyed, and
+late at night, or rather early in the morning—for it was one o’clock
+when we got into the boat to go down the Sanden Vand and row to
+Odde—having had such a good day, we sang “God save the Queen” and many
+songs about Rensdyr, Jagt, Norwegian love, “det kjære Hjem,” &c.
+
+In the morning we arose, and before breakfast read the following
+encouraging entry in the Dagbog:—“Wel Satisfed everything is good
+order;” and so we found it.
+
+[Illustration: _Seljestad._]
+
+Roldal itself is very beautiful. Our guide (Knut) returned to Haukelid,
+and next morning we left the lensmand’s house for a very long day,
+hoping, if possible, to reach Odde. At Hore we could only obtain some
+sour milk, and then started over the snow for Seljestad, when we
+noticed an old _bonde_ preparing barley for brewing, assisted by his
+wife, with a scarlet body to her jacket. About two P.M. we
+saw a grand effect of double solar rainbow—blue sky, no cloud.
+The sky between the inner and outer circles, which were complete, was
+deep lavender. This was seen from the head of the pass, above 3,500
+feet, with snow all round us. As we came down we cut our road, and
+after lunch, on arriving at the outburst of snow-water, we were all
+wild enough to bathe in it. However, we were none the worse, but, on
+the contrary, much the better for it. Soon after we came on one of the
+grandest bursts in Norway; a deep zigzag went down below us; and we
+looked upon the Gröndal, which is immense, and at the end of which lies
+the vast expanse of the Folgefond. We now began our descent, and worked
+along the valley. The curious part of the fording was this—that the
+old pony, having taken one man and baggage over, came back by himself,
+so that the “aspirants” might swim over without any load. After this
+we had a long ascent and heavy drag, beneath a scorching sun, over
+the snow, so much of which had not been known for years, to a tiny
+Ligaret _sæter_. The best thing to counteract the sun’s influence is a
+sou’-wester hind side before.
+
+[Illustration: _Wooden Bridge at Roldal._]
+
+“Rein” were seen here. Later on, at an altitude of 4,000 feet on a
+bare rock, we partook of dinner, icing our claret _au naturel_ in the
+snow. Soon afterwards we began our descent, and, on leaving the snow,
+found a young girl goatherd with a little bit of costume, showing that
+she belonged to Roldal—viz. a dark blue cloth cap, with yellow-orange
+border. Then we passed a hunters’ hole or hut, and again forded;
+finally coming, late in the evening, to a spot particularly mentioned
+by Forrester and greatly admired by us—the old bridge, with torrent
+roaring beneath, and the distant lake at our feet. We all paused, lay
+down, and murmured with delight over the beauties of the spot. Now that
+we had arrived at vegetation, we put leaves inside our caps, and longed
+for glycerine for our faces.
+
+Norway is grand, picturesque, wild, and bold, its principal features
+being the long arms of the sea running inland for many miles, sea-water
+dashing against the most precipitous façades of rocks, and the
+snow-water, in many instances, coming down from the high ranges, and
+falling straight into the sea itself. These arms of the sea are called
+_fjords_, and two are especially grand and of immense expanse—the
+Sogne fjord (the larger) and the Hardanger: both of them are rich in
+snow-scapes and waterfalls. The Hardanger is the richer of the two in
+the matter of waterfalls, having two to boast of—the Vöring Fos and
+the Skjæggedal Fos, sometimes called the Ringedal Fos, as falling into
+the Ringedal Vand. The Vöring Fos, which is approached from Vik, is
+better known than the latter, which is more grand in form and power:
+to reach it one should stop at the end of the fjord. The difficulty
+of access and roughness of road have prevented many from making the
+attempt; still it is well worth any passing discomfort or fatigue to
+have the privilege of communing with nature under such a combination of
+circumstances.
+
+[Illustration: _Odde: Hardanger._]
+
+Arrived at Odde, arrangements must be made to remain at least three or
+four days, so as to visit the following most interesting localities:—
+
+  1. Skjæggedal Fos.
+  2. Buerbræ Glacier.
+  3. Folgefond.
+  4. Gröndal Laathe Fos, and other fosses.
+
+The immense extent of the snow-fields of the Folgefond should not
+be missed, and for these a day not too bright should be specially
+selected; for pleasant as fine cloudless weather undoubtedly is, still
+nature is not always seen to the greatest advantage in it, and more
+particularly in mountain scenery, where mist and broken cloud relieve
+the various peaks, detach them one from the other by the most delicate
+films, and impart grandeur, endless variety, and size, draping the
+peaks with mystery and majesty. What a delightful sensation is that of
+rising on a fine fresh morning, with the early mist waiting its bidding
+to rise, and the anticipation of a glorious excursion in a mountainous
+country before one! Now for the fos.
+
+The village of Odde, our starting-place, with its simple church, a
+station for carrioles and boats, its few wooden houses, kind simple
+people, and one lazy-looking sailing craft, or _jægt_, is fortunate in
+having a young guide, who, following in the steps of his father, has by
+his many good qualities influenced numerous people to visit this most
+excellent place; and all who have been there once seem to wish to go
+again. Our arrival from the Haukelid route, coming down the Gröndal,
+was late; in fact, about two A.M. Leaving the lake above Odde,
+we first caught sight of the Hardanger fjord, with the village lying
+below, the church in strong relief, and its few buildings against the
+bright water. One felt greatly inclined to sit and muse over such a
+scene, so calm, so peaceful, so solemn, so silent, for no singing
+birds ever chirrup in this northern land, and their absence is most
+noticeable.
+
+Early in the morning we are up, and, with every promise of fine
+weather and comfort from our “nosebags” (most necessary items for this
+travelling), we start for the Skjæggedal, an excursion which should
+take fourteen hours to do comfortably. What enjoyment can there be,
+what satisfaction, what knowledge gained in a strange country, if one
+flies through it as if in training for some event or actually engaged
+in athletic sports? The start is made from Odde down the lake to
+Tyssedal, about an hour’s row on the fjord. Soon is seen a white line
+running out from the shore, the boat is caught by the stream and swung
+round, and we near the land in the backwater. This is the exit of the
+snow-water from the fos into the sea-water of the fjord.
+
+[Illustration: _Odde: Hardanger._]
+
+Now to begin three hours’ good steady walking up, up, up through
+pine woods, with boot soles polished by slippery needles, now and
+then ledges of rocks, and ofttimes a shelving sweep of smooth rocks,
+dangerous for most people, ticklish for every one, especially should
+they have any tendency to giddiness. In some parts logs have been laid
+in the fissures, and in one place a kind of all-fours ladder; still
+all enjoy it, and glory in the freshness of the trip. After this tough
+walk the upper valley is reached, and the farm, “Skjæggedal Gaard,”
+is in sight. Here we found milk and coffee; the homestead, so lonely
+in winter, now bright in summer light, with peasant farm folk quite
+out of the world, and a singing guide; but even Danjel, with his eagle
+profile, is not always inclined to sing his best. Perhaps he is
+aware of the report that the priest, having heard that Danjel had
+fallen in love, had forbidden the banns, simply on the score of his too
+strong resemblance to the feathery tribe just mentioned.
+
+[Illustration: _Skjæggedal Fos._]
+
+Leaving the farm, we go down to the boathouse, covered with huge
+slabs of stone to prevent it being blown away by the wintry winds,
+and enter the boat to cross the river at the foot of the fos from the
+Ringedal Vand. Once over, we are soon at the Ringedal Lake, which is
+all snow-water, most crystally clear, and containing no fish, no life,
+on account of its extremely low temperature. On the left of the lake
+is seen high up the Tyssestrængene Fos, as shown under the initial
+letter of our opening chapter. Near the foot of this we stop to go
+up and see the bear self-shooter, or trap, where Bruin, it is hoped,
+may run against a wire which fires two barrels heavily charged—a bad
+look-out in the future for tourists who eschew guides, as this is
+the only accessible road. At the back is the immense snow expanse of
+the Folgefond, and in front of us we hear a distant roaring thud of
+continuous waters—our “fall.” Rounding a point, we look up and see
+it. The best time is when the snow-water is in full spate; then it is
+truly majestic. The whole air seems whirled round in eddies; the water
+comes shooting and leaping over, falling in inverted rocket forms,
+half breaking on a ledge of rocks; the foam, the roar, the vast spray,
+everything is soaked and dripping—the energy of nature in a most
+sublime form, the Skjæggedal Fos itself. We were loath to leave the
+spot, but started off a little taciturn from the impression the scene
+had made on us, and safely returned to receive the kind hospitality of
+our friends at Odde, and next to visit the Buerbræ Glacier.
+
+This glacier has especial interest for all lovers of nature, from the
+fact of its being not only a new formation or creation, but being
+still in process of development. It is caused by the immense pressure
+of the large snow-fields above in the Folgefond, which bodily weigh
+and force down the ice into the valley. Our good friend Tollefson,
+father of the young guide previously mentioned, was born in the valley
+where the glacier is now gradually carrying all before it. Fifty years
+ago, he told me, there were no symptoms of ice; gradually it formed
+and advanced—in 1870, ninety yards; in 1871, four yards in one week;
+and in 1874 a still more rapid progress. When we were there the front
+ice was just ploughing up a large rock and pushing it over; on either
+side the rocks are steep; and throughout the colour of the ice is very
+beautiful, rivalling the hues of the Rosenlain Grindelwald. Where will
+this glacier end? Most likely it will drive steadily on to the lake
+above Odde. Who can tell?
+
+At the farm was seen a beautiful piece of carving, in the form of a
+salt-box, very old, but well worth preserving. We shall give some
+specimens of native work further on.
+
+[Illustration: _Buerbræ Glacier._]
+
+The costume of this district is very striking and characteristic, the
+chief feature being the head-dress, or cap, called in Norske _skaut_.
+It is formed of white muslin crimped, the hair hidden by the white band
+over the forehead, the cap rising in a semicircle above the head, while
+the corners fall down the back in a point nearly to the waist; white
+linen sleeves, with scarlet body bound with black velvet; the stomacher
+worked in different coloured beads and bugles; the chemisette fastened
+with old silver brooches; and the collar joined either by a stud or
+brooch. The apron is equally picturesque. Like the cap, it is of white
+muslin, with three rows of open insertion-work on a pink ground, which
+is generally well thrown up by a dark petticoat, so that the whole
+costume produces a very striking effect.
+
+[Illustration: _The Spring Dance: Hardanger._]
+
+These costumes were pleasingly brought together one evening when we
+were invited by Svend Tollefson to a little dance at his mother’s
+house. The father and mother sat together, whilst the younger folk
+were either standing or sitting round. The fiddler was grand both in
+action and eccentricity, with tremendous catgut fire, a few involuntary
+notes trespassing now and then, and producing a stirring effect on the
+dancers. The young Svend, evidently a favourite with the youth and
+beauty of Odde, was continuous in his dancing, principally the Spring
+Dance—a waltz in which it is most desirable that the swain should be
+taller than the maiden, for the former, holding her hand over her head,
+has to run round the latter as she waltzes. The Halling Dance, in which
+the performer jumps a great height into the air, was attempted out of
+doors, but hardly with success. After each dance the guests partook
+of wine, and on this occasion we had some _gammel fiin hvid portvün_
+(fine old white port wine). The politeness of the Norwegians is most
+noticeable. After taking wine there was a constant shaking of hands,
+while the host was profusely thanked by, “Tak for vün,” or “Tak for
+mad,” the charm of which is considerably enhanced by the fact that
+these simple-hearted people mean what they say.
+
+
+
+
+                                  IV.
+                        BERGEN AND ARCHÆOLOGY.
+
+  FROM ODDE DOWN SÖR FJORD—UTNE—HARDANGER FJORD—FAIRY
+      TROLDS—BJERG TROLDS—THE HULDRE—THE NÖKKEN—THE NISSER—HAUGE
+      FOLKET—TUFTI FOLKET—THE DRANGEN—CRACA, THE WITCH OF
+      NORWAY—OLAF KYRRE, THE NORSE KING—BERGEN—THE HANSEATIC
+      LEAGUE—THE GERMAN MERCHANTS—THE “PFEFFER JUNKERS”—THE FISH
+      FOLK OF BERGEN—THE MUSEUM—STRAX—THE SILDE KONGE—NORWEGIAN
+      WHALE SKELETONS—THE FLINT PERIOD—BRONZE PERIOD—INHUMATION
+      AND CINERATION—ROMAN INFLUENCE—THE IRON PERIOD—ARCHÆOLOGICAL
+      PERIODS IN NORWAY.
+
+
+Odde is situated at the most southern point of the Sör fjord—the last
+inland effort of the Hardanger; and we left it with regret, although we
+knew there was a new world before us in sea-coast experiences: the most
+bracing sea air, together with the excitement of putting into all kinds
+of out-of-the-way villages nestling behind headlands and huge bastions
+of gneiss, to protect them from the furious gales which lash this coast
+from the south-west. We therefore laid ourselves out for thorough
+enjoyment of steamboat travelling, aided all down the Hardanger by the
+clearest and most lovely weather. We proceeded down the Sör fjord, _en
+route_ to Eide, the boats coming off to the steamer at Utne. Some of
+the costumes were most brilliant in colour. One bright green bodice,
+the edging of which was blended with other colours, bore the palm, and
+everything bespoke joy save the face of the poor girl who wore it.
+She had come to see a brother start for America, and to wish him “God
+speed.” Then away we went from Eide down the Hardanger to Rosendal,
+under the Folgefond. We had looked forward to visiting Rosendal, as the
+last château of Norway. Unfortunately there was not sufficient time
+to land. Sometimes, late in the season, the steamers visit outlying
+spots for cargo, and then much may be seen, as, for instance, when
+the Bergen steamer calls at the sulphur mines of Varalsoe. On one of
+these occasions we not only had the opportunity of going up to the
+mines, but through them, as five hundred tons of ore were being shipped
+for England. Some people find the steamer journey wearying: there is,
+however, so much information to be gathered from those who come on
+board, generally for short distances, that the local details are always
+worth inquiring into.
+
+[Illustration: _The Market: Bergen._]
+
+The whole of the Hardanger is grand and impressive, the Folgefond, with
+its immensity of snow-spread, being the chief attraction. The peace of
+fine weather makes one almost incredulous of what it is when winter
+storms tear up the fjord, and the now unrippled surface is lashed into
+a fury which defies the stoutest hearts and boats.
+
+We are nearing Bergen, and there is a flutter on board as the town
+first opens to view—_mirabile dictu_, without rain. On the port side
+is a fort, and apparently there are fortifications on the starboard bow
+too. At last we enter the town.
+
+[Illustration: _Rosendal._]
+
+
+                   NORWEGIAN FAIRY AND SPIRIT LORE.
+
+Before travelling farther we shall do well to prepare ourselves for any
+unexpected apparitions, should such be our good fortune. Let us then
+review their varieties, as we hear them described by some who believe
+they have seen them. They may be classified as follows:—
+
+The _Trold_, or _Eventyr Trold_—_eventyr_ meaning “fairy tale”—is
+more frequently introduced into fairy tales than met by tourists, or
+even sportsmen: it is very shy of foreigners. This particular class
+is distinguished by having one, two, or three eyes, and sometimes one,
+three, six, or nine heads—a sort of giant, wild man, or inland Caliban
+of eighteen feet high.
+
+[Music]
+
+The _Bjerg Trold_, as the name suggests, frequents the mountains, and
+belongs to the same class as the former, though smaller, attaining a
+height of only twelve feet; in fact, it is a medium male ogre.
+
+_The Huldre._—This is a great fairy-tale mystery—the refined beauty
+in peasant Hardanger costume, who sometimes appears—as mentioned in
+our notes on Thelemarken—at dances and festivities, turning the heads
+of all the beaux of the evening until, in some swing of the spring
+dance, her dread cow-tail is revealed, when she vanishes as the music
+of D. T. A. Tellefsen suggests, leaving many broken hearts behind her.
+
+_Nökken._—Water sprites, generally depicted with Neptune crowns, grey
+beards, and seaweed garments.
+
+_Nisser._—These are the mischievous little rascals who are always up
+to tricks here, there, and everywhere, and are closely allied to the
+sprites known in the Romsdal fjelds as the Höboken. These latter are
+seriously spoken of as existing, and having blue heads; and while up at
+the _sæters_ a spare place inside is invariably left for them by the
+_piger_. The Nisser are depicted with grey clothes, long beards, short
+bodies, and red caps; the shortness of the body recalling to our minds
+a remark of days gone by, “Perhaps Mr. Nobody did it.”
+
+_Hauge folket_ are a combination of Huldre and Nisser.
+
+_Tufti folket_ are a peculiar variety of Nisser.
+
+_Drangen_ are the ghosts or spirits of drowned persons.
+
+Having classified these mystic folk, we can only hope that the
+information we have culled from authentic and local sources will not
+only help those who have already read Norwegian legends, but give a
+zest to those that may be forthcoming in future translations. Those
+interested in early witches will find details of Craca, the witch
+of Norway, in Olaus Magnus, “De Gentibus Septentrionalibus,” a work
+probably well known to our immortal bard Shakspere, as Craca was great
+in using “venomous moisture of snakes.” A caldron, too, was the common
+instrument of witches, wherein they boiled juices, herbs, worms, and
+entrails for enchantments.
+
+Norwegian fairy tales are numerous, and traces of Trold lore are found
+all through the provinces, and constantly referred to in every-day
+life; at least, so we found. It is, however, possible that “the wish
+was father to the thought,” and that we rather courted than avoided
+referring to them. Unfortunately they came not, although a rattle
+of flying rocks down a _couloir_ was always attributed to them. We
+shall not find them in Bergen, that is certain; only Huldre appears
+in public, and she coyly at the festivities: she delights not in
+war-paint, _gibuses_, or opera hats.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+Olaf Kyrre, the old Norse king, built, or rather developed, Bergen into
+a town about 1070. Easy of access, and naturally adapted as a centre
+for trade, it has now become the most important commercial town of the
+west coast. The principal tradition of Bergen is, that ever since the
+introduction of umbrellas every little Bergenite has been presented
+with one as soon as born, another being bestowed by the godfathers and
+godmothers at confirmation; and it is only reasonable to suppose that
+at a wedding every one gives the bride a Sangster or a Gamp, according
+to circumstances. Anyhow, it is an indisputable fact that umbrellas are
+plentiful in Bergen, and, when not devoted to keeping off the rain,
+they serve as a screen against the occasional visits of the sun. No
+doubt this humidity is owing to the position of the town, which lies
+between two mountains not less than 2,500 feet high, upon and around
+which Jupiter Pluvius reigns supreme.
+
+Passing from the climate, we must notice the town or city. Approaching
+it from the fjord, it looks picturesque and busy, with merchantmen,
+steam tugs, steam launches, and coasting steamers entering the
+harbour. On the left is the old castle or palace, with the remains of
+its banqueting hall, supposed to have been built by Olaf at the same
+time as the church. On the right is the landing-place for steamers,
+above which, on a part of the town abutting on the fjord and forming
+a continuation of the principal street, is a fort. Proceeding farther
+down the harbour, with the churches before us, on the left we pass the
+ship-building yard, and come upon a long line of white wooden houses
+with wharfs in front of them—a busy scene, fraught with energy and
+_bouquet de stokfiske_. Alongside lie the Nordland _jægts_, or vessels
+which bring the fish down dried from the Lofoden Islands, and their
+crews are in close commercial relationship with the owners of the white
+wooden structures which are known by the name of the Hanseatic Houses.
+Olaf Kyrre had favoured the Scotch with certain privileges for trading
+at Bergen, but in after years the Hanseatic League made great efforts
+in the same direction, and successfully; for in 1228 they settled and
+began to trade in Bergen, and by some extraordinary means ousted the
+Scotch and English entirely by 1312, when they were left in their
+trading glory. They soon developed the vast fishing trade of Nordland,
+and made Bergen the great commercial centre which it now is, receiving
+dried cod-fish and roes from the north. These are sent, in exchange for
+wine, corn, iron, and so forth, to Sweden, Denmark, Holland, Spain,
+England, and various parts of the Mediterranean, but especially to
+the Roman Catholic countries. Still, these German merchants were not
+entirely happy; they, the Hanseatics, located together on one side of
+the harbour, were not much liked by the youth and beauty of the Bergen
+proper side of the town, receiving from the Norske _piger_, or Bergen
+beauties, the characteristic and appropriate _sobriquet_ of “Pepper
+Youngsters” (_Pfeffer Junkers_), which still clings to them.
+
+[Illustration: _Bergen._]
+
+[Illustration: _Bergen: Fish Market in the distance._]
+
+Bergen must have been very imposing in appearance in the old times,
+when the large Hanseatic craft were warping out of the entrance of the
+harbour, with their high quarter-deck and taffrail-deck lamps,
+squarely rigged three masts and steeving bowsprit, jack-yard and
+water-sail, long pennons and streamers from the yard-arms, the sides
+of the vessel falling well in, and the guns bristling to frighten any
+who might take a fancy to the good cargo on board. Now the Hanseatic
+League is a matter of ancient history, but it did its work well, and
+will not soon be forgotten. Bergen is at present the source of supply
+to all places to the north of it, and in itself is interesting to the
+visitor as being a centre of costume—that charming relic of days
+almost bygone, when each district had its distinctive dress and its
+special form of silver ornament, which, however quaint, or, to go
+further, even ugly, still commanded favour by the respect its presence
+offered to those who had gone before, and most likely had worn it. The
+costumes are well seen at the market, when the farmers, or _bönder_,
+come in with farm produce, bringing their wives and daughters, with
+the milk in wooden kegs formed like churns, with leather stretched
+over the top, and hoops pressed down tightly to keep it from spilling.
+These milk-cans are carried by the women on their backs, with straps
+or ropes, like knapsacks. One costume is very noticeable here, that
+of the fish-girls. It consists of a dark blue petticoat and jacket,
+a kind of Scotch bonnet well pulled over the head, with a white
+edging of cap coming a little down and showing all round, and roll
+upon roll of kerchief round their necks. Robust, pictures of health,
+and muscular, how they row! When their husbands or brothers are with
+them they row all the same, being quite capable of the first law
+of nature—self-preservation. They work hard and in earnest, and
+always look _bien soignées_. For flow of language the early fish
+market conveys a good idea of the activity of the tongue and power of
+gesticulation—features of life not common to Norway. The boats are all
+down below, and the purchasers, generally domestic servants, hang over
+the woodwork above, craning their necks and stretching down, pointing
+first to this, and then to that, and possibly pushed aside ere long by
+some one else worming in for a bargain.
+
+In the meantime the fishermen in the boats are taking it very quietly,
+sorting their fish, feeling that their purchasers can be supplied
+_strax_. Now this word in the dictionary is described thus:—“_Strax_,
+directly or immediately.” Practically, in Norwegian life, the traveller
+finds that it is no such thing, _strax_ being a movable feast—so
+movable that it is impossible to say where it will be. It is not even
+so sure as the “Coming, sir,” mumbled by a flying waiter in the midst
+of a crowd of customers about one o’clock; for in the latter case, if
+you wait until two o’clock, you feel there is a probability looming,
+but with a Norwegian _strax_, especially if applied to getting horses
+for carrioles, it may be hours, or, in the words of what was thought a
+charming song in our younger days, though now half forgotten, “It may
+be for years, or it may be for ever.”
+
+Bergen is especially associated with the registers of the sea serpent;
+therefore the subject should be referred to here. Crews and captains
+have voluntarily sworn to having seen in various parts of the ocean
+strange monsters of the deep, usually of serpentine form; and judging
+from the illustrations in that interesting work by Olaus Magnus the
+Goth, “De Gentibus Septentrionalibus” (dated A.D. 1530), the
+sea monsters depicted therein were enough to frighten any artist,
+particularly if he were on the spot where the said creatures were
+visible. Still many wonders of the deep may be studied with advantage
+at the Bergen Museum. Lately this institution has been brought
+prominently to light, thanks to the energy of M. Lorange, who has
+found a grand field for his enthusiasm in Scandinavian relics, flint
+implements, and specimens of the “glorious Viking period.” But we must
+not be carried away by this interesting topic from paying due attention
+to a strange-looking creature in this museum, which is kept in spirits
+and labelled—
+
+              “SILDE KONGE (_Gymnetrus Glesue Ascanius_).
+
+  “Length (dried), without tail, 12 feet. Depth, 1 foot. Head blunt,
+  square. Bristles, or capillaries, 3 feet; 8 from above, 6 under the
+  chin.”
+
+The whales are very fine and enormous specimens, being eighty feet
+long. Why, then, should there not be gigantic _silder_? A Highlander
+was once speaking of the grandeur and size of Scotland, when a remark
+was made that the area was small. “Tout, tout, mon! But if you saw it
+rolled out, just think what it would be then!” So, were we to roll out
+a ninety-foot whale, should we not have as good a sea serpent as any
+newspaper might desire?
+
+Now that costume is being fast swept away, the old silver of Norway
+bought up by travelling dealers for the town silversmiths to export,
+the old carving replaced by cheap feather-edge boarding, and the
+_mangel brats_ chased away by “Baker’s patent” or some other brand-new
+patent, a general national museum like this of Bergen becomes
+especially desirable, and even necessary, for retaining in the country
+itself its own characteristics. In flint weapons it is especially
+rich, thanks to M. Lorange, who has opened many tumuli with reverence
+and care, his perfect knowledge of the subject being a guarantee that
+nothing will be overlooked. Natural history, too, is well represented.
+The corals found at the entrances to the fjords are astonishing,
+immense, being more like shrubs in size. The Runic inscriptions
+and carvings, portals, and chairs are most interesting; while the
+church decorations of early Christian periods, the ironwork, arms,
+and numismatic records, so useful as collateral history and in the
+assignment or corroboration of the dates of tumuli, are well cared for.
+Most heartily, therefore, do we wish success to the national collection
+now so happily commenced, and so full of promise.
+
+The somewhat modern appearance of Bergen and the absence of old wooden
+houses are attributable to the disastrous fires which have raged from
+time to time in different parts of the city; in fact, so much was
+destroyed by the great fire in 1702, that nearly the whole of the town
+has been rebuilt, except the old Hanseatic houses. Neither has Bergen
+escaped its share of scourges, for the black pestilence made sad havoc
+about 1348 or 1350, and the plague destroyed immense numbers about 1620.
+
+Although Bergen is the most important fish mart in Norway, it will
+be better to give a detailed description of its working, extent, and
+season, when we arrive at the Lofoden fishing grounds and islands,
+and the coast of Heligoland and Salten. It seems curious that these
+slow-sailing _jægts_ should come five hundred miles with their cargo
+of fish, when Trondhjem, Molde, and Aalesund are close to hand; but
+on consideration it will be easily understood what an advantage it
+must be for them to get a quick and ready sale for their fish, and a
+selection of every kind of produce from the warmer climates of the
+Mediterranean, or even the West Indies. Whether articles of necessity
+or luxury, Bergen can supply anything, from a marlinespike to a sea
+serpent.
+
+The museum of antiquities at Bergen now deserves attention, and
+in it the Nordfjord is brought especially before us, as we shall
+see hereafter. In the meantime we will turn to a few chronological
+landmarks in the early days of Gamle Norge, which will be most
+valuable, as the catena of Scandinavian history is complete in
+specimens of the different periods, corroborated by the archæological
+treasures of Denmark, now so admirably arranged by Professor Worsaae
+in the museum at Copenhagen, and the collection of antiquities at
+Stockholm. Having followed out these different periods, we need only
+casually refer to the objects themselves when we come to the districts
+where they were originally discovered or still exist.
+
+[Illustration: _Church Candlestand: Bergen Museum._]
+
+_The Flint Period._—For a long time it was supposed that Norway
+had no stone period: now flint implements of beautiful surface and
+exquisite finish are found up to lat. 65°, beyond which, and near the
+North Cape, the implements are of hard schist, the local formation of
+that part. Among these specimens are found of arrow and spear heads,
+and knives. The hammers are generally made of whatever the rock of
+the country may be. This use of hard schist for stone implements is
+corroborated by discoveries in similar latitudes in Sweden and Finland.
+A very fine dolmen is still in existence at Frederickshald, in the
+south of Norway—a spot which, to judge from the number of tumuli in
+the neighbourhood, generally placed on rising ground within view of
+the sea, is a perfect cemetery. Their average height is about 3 feet 6
+inches to 4 feet, and length about 35 feet. Near Stavanger the flint
+implements are of exquisite finish.
+
+_The Bronze Period._—It is interesting to associate this period with
+two systems of burial, namely, Inhumation and Cineration.
+
+_Inhumation._—Wooden coffin—a tree scooped out; at the bottom was
+placed a bullock’s skin, on which the hero was laid in his garments,
+and with his arms by his side. An instance occurred in which the
+following items were preserved quite perfectly:—A _vadmel_; a kind of
+Phrygian cap; a wool plaid and petticoat, or rather kilt, to the knee;
+a small box; a comb; and a bronze sword and knife. These, with a belt
+for the waist, convey a vivid idea of the costume of the period.
+
+[Illustration: _Knife-stone on Bronze Belt: Bergen Museum._]
+
+_Cineration._—Flint stones seem to have been the base of the grave,
+which was about seven feet long. Remains of cinders prove that the skin
+of some animal was first laid down, then the body with extra garments,
+in the cinders of which the bones were found, accompanied by a bronze
+sword, with sheath; two knives of bronze; and a cube of wood, not
+burnt. The bronze implements are so generally known that it is not
+necessary to illustrate them.
+
+[Illustration: _Hard Schist implements: North Cape._]
+
+_The Iron Period._—During this period the tumuli were consumed on
+elevated positions within view of the sea; the bones discovered are
+burnt, the ashes being in urns. The objects burnt with them were
+generally small ornaments of bronze or iron, the workmanship of which
+betrays no Roman influence. Sometimes, also, glass vessels were
+consumed, as globules of melted glass have been occasionally found.
+In other cases the ashes are in bronze vases, showing a transition
+state. Should there, however, be any swords, they are bent and twisted,
+and are undoubtedly attributable to Roman influence, as some of the
+bronze vases bear Roman inscriptions. The next stage covered a large
+space, and was characterized sometimes by cineration, and sometimes
+by inhumation. In the latter case the objects are placed with great
+care after the old Roman manner, and consist of urns of burnt clay,
+bronze, and glass; ornaments, arms, &c. Here we have not only actual
+Roman work, but Norwegian imitations, such as bracteates, which have
+been found with Byzantine moneys struck about A.D. 450 or 500.
+This brings us to an important epoch in Scandinavian history, which
+is very ably described by Dexter Hawkins, Esq., in a pamphlet on the
+Anglo-Saxon Race, being an address read by him before the Syracuse
+University, June 21, 1875:—
+
+                        “THE ANGLO-SAXON RACE.
+
+  “A providential event, not originating from themselves, but from
+  a Roman emperor who intended no such results, occurred at the
+  close of the third century, which, by directing the attention of
+  the Saxons to maritime exploits on a larger scale, with greater
+  prospects, and to more distant countries than before, exerted an
+  important influence upon their own destiny and that of Europe, and
+  finally of America.
+
+  [Illustration: _Sword: Bergen Museum._]
+
+  [Illustration: _Bracelet: Bergen Museum._]
+
+  [Illustration: _Rowlock Knot of Birch-stones._]
+
+  [Illustration: _Viking Rowlock._]
+
+  “The Emperor Probus, harassed by the annual incursions of the
+  barbarous hordes around the Euxine, now the Black Sea, transplanted
+  a large body of various tribes, including Saxons from the vicinity
+  of the Elbe, to that region to serve as a protection against
+  future inroads. But the attachment of mankind to the scenes of
+  their childhood, and their ardent longing when in foreign lands
+  for the country their relatives inhabit, where their most pleasing
+  associations have been formed, where their individual characters
+  have been acquired, and customs like to their own exist, are
+  feelings so natural to every bosom, and so common to every age,
+  that it is not surprising that these exiles longed to return to
+  their native wilds. Impelled by this desire, they seized the
+  earliest opportunity of abandoning their foreign settlements and
+  possessing themselves of the ships lying in the adjacent harbours;
+  they formed the daring plan of sailing back to the Rhine, though
+  they were more than two thousand miles distant by sea, with no
+  charts, compass, or pilots, and ignorant of the many islands, and
+  shoals, and currents of the Black and Mediterranean Seas. Compelled
+  to land wherever they could for supplies, safety, and information,
+  they ravaged the coasts of Asia and Greece. Arriving at Sicily,
+  they attacked and plundered its capital with great slaughter.
+  Beaten about by the winds, often ignorant where they were, seeking
+  subsistence, pillaging to obtain it, and excited to new plunder
+  by the successful depredations they had already committed, they
+  carried their hostilities to several districts of Africa. They
+  were driven off that continent by a force sent for that purpose
+  from Carthage. Turning towards Europe, they passed the pillars of
+  Hercules, sailed out into the Atlantic Ocean, rounded the Iberian
+  peninsula, crossed the stormy Bay of Biscay, passed through the
+  British Channel, and finally terminated their remarkable voyage by
+  reaching their fatherland at the mouth of the Elbe.
+
+  [Illustration: _Sword Handle: Bergen Museum._]
+
+  [Illustration: _Arrow Heads and Sword Handle: Bergen Museum._]
+
+  “This wonderful expedition discovered to these adventurers and to
+  their neighbours, to all, in short, who heard, and had the courage
+  to imitate, that from the Roman colonies a rich harvest of spoil
+  might be gathered if sought for by sea. It removed the veil of
+  terror that hung over distant oceans and foreign expeditions; for
+  these exiles had desolated every province almost with impunity.
+  They had plunder to exhibit sufficient to fire the avarice of every
+  spectator. They had acquired skill which those who joined them
+  might soon inherit. On land the Roman tactics and discipline were
+  generally invincible; but at sea they were comparatively unskilled
+  and weak. The Saxons perceived this, and immediately turned their
+  whole attention to naval warfare. Like their American descendants,
+  they were cunning and apt at whatever they undertook. Their navy
+  became so effective in a few years that every country in Europe
+  bordering on the sea had contributed to their wealth, and they
+  annoyed the Roman commerce to such a degree that large fleets
+  were fitted out against them, and an officer appointed by the
+  Romans as early as the beginning of the fifth century styled ‘The
+  Superintendent of the Saxon Shore.’ These exploits had filled their
+  island with wealth.”
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+A very interesting antiquarian discovery was made in 1877 close to a
+village in Sealand, some twenty miles from Copenhagen, of which the
+following are the most important details:—About three yards below
+the ground a grave was discovered, surrounded and covered by large
+monoliths, the grave being about six yards long and two yards wide, and
+the floor consisting of rough oaken planks, on which were found the
+remains of a female in a mummified state. Round the head of the body
+were placed several glass cups, one of which bore an inscription, in
+Greek characters, signifying “Good luck to you,” and in other cups were
+found the remains of various kinds of fish, as well as a gold coin of
+the reign of the Roman Emperor Probus. A solid ring of gold encircled
+the neck, and a heavy pin of the same metal was also found close to
+the body, as well as a couple of finger rings. At the feet were placed
+several vessels hollowed out of oak, in which were deposited the bones
+of various animals, especially young pigs, and in one of these basins
+were discovered forty-two dice burned in bone. In the earth round this
+tomb were discovered the remains of several human beings lying in
+great disorder, and it is supposed that the bones are those of slaves
+sacrificed to the manes of the deceased lady. It is thought probable
+that this tomb dates as far back as the third or fourth century after
+Christ.
+
+With regard to the initial letter at the head of this chapter, it
+is from a remarkable specimen of Runic wood-carving—part of an old
+episcopal seat—which will be more fully described when considering
+that class of work, of which we find such interesting specimens in the
+museums of Norway, especially that of Bergen, and which happily are
+well preserved for our study and guidance.
+
+
+                   ARCHÆOLOGICAL PERIODS OF NORWAY.
+
+  +------+---------------------------------------+-----------+---------------------+
+  |      |STONE.—Silex for stone implements.--   |           |                     |
+  |      |  Arctic stone implements recently     |           |                     |
+  |      |  discovered near the North Cape       |           |                     |
+  |      |  are of hard schist, the stone found  |           |                     |
+  |      |  in that part.                        |           |                     |
+  | A.D. |                                       |           |                     |
+  | 100  |BRONZE.—Period of Cineration and       |           |                     |
+  | 200  |  Inhumation in wood, trees scooped    |           |                     |
+  |      |  out.                                 |           |                     |
+  |      |                                       |           |                     |
+  | 300 {|IRON, 1ST PERIOD.—Sudden transition    |           |                     |
+  |     {|  from cast bronze swords to iron      |           |                     |
+  | 400 {|  swords damascened.—Roman coins       |Urns for   |                     |
+  |     {|  found in tumuli of 63 A.D.—217       | ashes.    |                     |
+  | 500 {|  A.D.—Iron and glass come             |           |                     |
+  |      |  together.— Roman influence.          |           |                     |
+  |      |                                       |           |                     |
+  | 560 {|IRON, 2ND PERIOD.     Byzantine Coins. |           |                     |
+  | 600 {|  Byzantine Barbaric  Roman Bracteates.|           |                     |
+  | 700 {|  influence.                           |           |                     |
+  |      |                                       |           |                     |
+  |      |                                       |           | A.D.                |
+  | 800 {|IRON, 3RD PERIOD.     VIKING PERIOD.   |Norsemen to| 863 Harold Harfager.|
+  |     {|                                       | Iceland.  | 936 Haco the Good.  |
+  | 900 {|  Christianity.                        |           | 994 OLAF.           |
+  |     {|                      RUNIC 1ST PERIOD.|           |1000 Eric and Sweyn. |
+  |1030 {|                                       |           |                     |
+  +------+---------------------------------------+-----------+---------------------+
+
+
+
+
+                                  V.
+                       WEST COAST AND NORDFJORD.
+
+  COAST TRAVELLING—BERGEN HARBOUR—THE SCHOONER YACHT—SKAALS
+      OVERDONE—WEST COAST—STEENSUND—ALDEN—OUSEN AND ITS
+      GARDEN ROOFS—EN ROUTE FOR SANDE—DELIGHTFUL STATION—GOOD
+      FISH—JOLSTER VAND AND NEDRE VASENDEN—THE ANXIOUS
+      BATHER—PICTURESQUE CHURCH-GOING—NORWEGIAN BLAKKEN—THE
+      ACCIDENT—THE FRIENDLY TOILETTE—COSTUMES AND BABY
+      SWADDLING—SCARCITY OF FOOD—THE TENTMASTER COOKING—NORDFJORD
+      ANTIQUITIES—PROFESSOR WORSAAE AND M. LORANGE—CONTENTS
+      OF TUMULUS—THE VIKINGS’ GAME OF “MYLLA”—UDVIG—THE BAD
+      PASS FROM MOLDESTADT—SNOW POLES—THE POSTMAN AND BIRCH
+      BOUGHS—BIRTHDAY FESTIVITIES—FALEIDET—LYTH FISHING—HAUGEN
+      AND HORNINGDALSKRAKKEN—HELLESYLT—BELTS—THE GEIRANGER
+      FJORD—CAPTAIN DAHL—THE SEVEN SISTERS—THE VIKING’S HEAD—THE
+      PULPIT—MARAAK—STORFJORD.
+
+
+Travelling in Norway is principally carried on by carriole, row boat,
+and steamer. From the immense extent of seaboard the latter mode has
+naturally been much practised and developed, more especially as the
+Government has not only countenanced it, but encouraged it in every
+possible way. Our route in this excursion involves the adoption of
+this mode of conveyance, and we leave Bergen, with all its interesting
+monuments, associations, costumes, and commercial interests, to wend
+our way up the coast to the north. Starting from the port, with its
+varieties of shipping from all parts of Europe, its Nordlander _jægts_
+always prominent, its churches standing well out from the moist haze
+and smoke of the city, a scene at all times picturesque, we soon settle
+down for steamboat travelling. On this occasion there was a very
+unusual bustle at the mouth of the port, a fresh breeze was blowing,
+and a small schooner yacht was being towed out for a trial trip. From
+the amount of bunting and excitement, not only on board the yacht, but
+on shore and on our steamer, this was evidently a great event. With
+sails all ready to be hoisted as soon as the hawser was let go, one
+would imagine that chase was about to be given to a smuggler, or that
+a Viking had appeared in the offing. It was, however, only for a sail,
+and our little coast steamer was soon away by herself, ploughing in
+loneliness through the fjord. And now for the healthy pleasant delights
+of sea-coast trips.
+
+With our luggage quietly stowed awaiting our bidding, and a calm
+satisfaction that the steamer was well found, our meals punctual and
+plenteous, our captain well up to his work, the steward anxious to take
+care of us, and our travelling companions likely to be agreeable—the
+Norwegians being kindly to strangers who are courteous to them—there
+is but one drawback to the steamer work. It occurs in the fore part
+of the vessel, and is occasioned thus. A _skaal_ (health) for Gamle
+Norge is a very good thing and a noble sentiment, but if too often
+repeated, with the usual accompaniments, it becomes offensive. The
+peasants come on board at the numerous stations, and can procure every
+variety of spirit which is unobtainable on shore. They therefore
+make the most of their opportunity, and soon the demon of our own
+land—inebriation—appears, bringing discomfort to the recipient,
+disgust and misery to his surroundings, and finally a besotted and
+wrecked old age; for, although strong constitutions may resist its
+inroads for a time, they must inevitably succumb at last, and pay the
+penalty. Either the victim is quarrelsome or maudlingly stupid: the
+demon makes his mark in so many ways. The natural expression of the
+features is no more to be found; the eye loses its brightness, its
+sweetness is changed for heavy moistness, its telegraphic and sensitive
+expression has vanished; the lips, before so full of character, are no
+longer the exponents of subtle feeling; the hand trembles, the feet
+shuffle, the whole frame is limp, the muscles are flaccid, and the
+brain muddled to futile dreaming. If this be a curse in public, what
+must it be when it invades a home! Well may the wife long to see her
+husband freed from this evil spirit and restored to his former noble
+nature!
+
+But let us turn to the feast to which nature invites us. At every
+moment the sea-scape changes, new peaks open to us, the clouds are
+massing ready to be gilded by the setting sun, and soon we have
+the heavens in a blaze of fiery glory and impressive grandeur. As we
+approach the outlying islands we find strong glacial markings, less
+vegetation, and the characteristics of the line of route, all up
+the west coast of Norway, can be carefully and comfortably studied
+by the most moderate sailors, as the islands keep the steamer track
+quite smooth, and it is only when the entrance of some large fjord is
+passed that any motion is felt or any rolling occurs. The villages
+generally nestle close to the waterside, the church in the centre,
+and the _præstegaard_ close by; but a variation occurs in one village
+particularly: the church answers the double purpose of God’s service
+and the fisher’s beacon, and is placed well upon the top of the hill.
+Many are the excuses made by professing Christians for not going to
+church, but the difficulty of access to the one in question, while
+frequently causing the pilgrim to utter the cry of “Excelsior,” at the
+same time elicits the mental avowal that he would be very thankful if
+it were lower.
+
+[Illustration: _The Village and Church of Alva._]
+
+In making this passage those who are in Norway for the first time must
+be struck by seeing that both sides of the vessel are sometimes within
+three feet of the bare rocks, which descend precipitously into the
+sea. No wonder, then, that the old woodcuts of the sixteenth century
+show large rings in the face of sea rocks for the vessels to moor
+to.[2] One part of the coast near Steensund is most barren: the masses
+of rock, entirely rounded by ice in past ages, seem to be too smooth
+for vegetation to get a footing. The spot, however, finds favour with
+lobsters, which seem to thrive here, ultimately finding themselves in
+England, and ending their days with a garnishing of parsley. Even for
+lobsters, however, travelling is very expensive, for the difference
+between their price in England and Norway is simply astonishing.
+
+  [2] _Vide_ Olaus Magnus.
+
+On some parts of the west coast red deer are found, and now that
+these animals are scarce, it seems a pity they should be in danger of
+extermination. Better far would it be if the _chasseur_ had sufficient
+strength of mind and self-denial to induce him to give these last
+of their race such a respite, or series of closed seasons, as would
+enable them to increase in number. One fine head came on board—a very
+healthy, powerful horn, and royal on both sides. The beam was much
+thicker than it usually is in the horns of stags killed in Scotland,
+and very grand in form. The haunch weighed thirty-eight pounds English,
+so that it must have been a “gude beastie.”
+
+[Illustration: _Ousen._]
+
+After passing the entrance of the Sogne fjord and experiencing a
+little rolling, we sighted the island of Alden, a very imposing mass
+of rock, supposed to resemble a lion’s head; and, fortunately for us,
+there was less mist rolling around it than usual. It would have been
+a sad disappointment had we only had its whereabouts suggested to us,
+which is the fate of many who are anxious to see it. Our wholesome
+little craft soon leaves Alden far behind, running up Dalsfjord to
+the eastward; we begin to worm our way through narrow passages, with
+the rocks nearer than ever to her sides; and at last we leave her to
+take a boat, in order that we may row up to Ousen, a lovely spot, with
+such garden roofs and such a farmhouse and buildings! The spot where
+we landed is shown in the woodcut. The river was of the most beautiful
+soda-water-bottle colour, the wooden buildings topped with the mountain
+ash in all its gala beauty of bright clusters of berries. The beams
+used in the construction of the houses were very old and remarkably
+massive, and the size of the Sea House suggests the importance of this
+locality as a centre for general merchandise. We arrived here about
+three in the morning, and the servant at the farmhouse showed us to our
+rooms, which had a weird ghostly appearance from their bareness, size,
+and height. The old staircase testified that it had once been well kept
+up; and then, as we looked about for some indication of date, we at
+last found a good specimen of a snaphance pistol of about 1625, which
+tallied well with the period we had already assigned to the house.
+We had now left the sea for a time, and after a few hours’ rest the
+Tentmaster-general reported everything ready for a start; and soon we
+were _en route_ for Sande.
+
+[Illustration: _The Island of Alden._]
+
+Sande is a place of sweet waters to the traveller. After rough roads,
+bad beds, sparse food, and occasional parasites, what a change! The
+probability is that a stranger would pass the comfortable-looking
+house, with its creepers over the porch, its well-stocked garden,
+English home life, and generally inviting appearance. The geniality and
+kindly welcome offered by the master of the house are most delightful,
+and every one who visits it has a strong wish to rest for awhile in
+such agreeable quarters. The valley is very bold and grand, and good
+expeditions can be made in all directions. The Paymaster-general,
+with honest pride, pointed out to us where, on a former visit, he had
+killed a fine fish, and seemed to realise the fact that, having once
+experienced that gratification, you can go on killing the same fish,
+with all its pleasant associations, for the rest of your life. But we
+soon had to leave this inviting spot for rougher quarters, being bound
+due north, to be up for August 1st and reindeer; and as time, tide,
+and August 1st wait for no man, we started for our next station—Nedre
+Vasenden, on the Jolster Vand.
+
+[Illustration: _Nordfjord Peasants._]
+
+On arriving there no luxuriant garden growth welcomed us. Instead of a
+south aspect, it was a north one. The atmosphere was changed, and we
+missed our beloved Sande. As it was Saturday night, we looked forward
+to a quiet Sunday, with church, the meeting of the peasants, and a
+good chance of seeing all the costumes of the district, which is wild,
+barren, and uncultivated. The Sunday morning was inviting, and we took
+the opportunity of going to the lake, at a retired spot where the
+mountain path came down to the water’s edge, for a quiet bathe; but no
+sooner were we in the water than a troop of peasant girls came slowly
+down the path. Confusion and dismay! Norwegians do not understand our
+amphibious tendencies. However, No. 1, with his characteristic retiring
+disposition, dived, leaving a certain disturbance of the water after
+his plunge, which attracted attention. Beyond this, only the smallest
+possible part of two heads might be seen. Now came the anxiety of
+wondering what the spectators would do. Would they throw stones at us,
+to make us run, or examine the contents of the chief’s pockets, or try
+on some of our garments? No; while wishing we had the epidermis of a
+Captain Webb the whole group suddenly laughed, and moved slowly off,
+evidently thinking how curious the English were in their habits. We
+afterwards met at the church porch.
+
+
+Every traveller taking to pony travelling in Norway implicitly
+believes that there is no danger of the animal ever falling; and
+it is a happy and comfortable faith. The _blakken_ are rare good
+animals, cream-coloured, with dark points; hog manes like hat-brushes,
+with white down the centre, the black being outside; and their hind
+legs rather zebra marked. From the first they are petted, and their
+intelligence and stolid kindliness requite the care of the owners. They
+trot well; and how they can go down a hill! As they crouch and run
+close to the ground they need never be handed: no “’ands” required, as
+the British groom would describe it. Still, exception proves the rule,
+and we met with an instance in this _stolkjær_ trip.
+
+We were going over the crest of a grand mountain road, below us a
+large lake, and beyond a glorious range of mountains. The deep tone of
+the fir forest added solemnity to the scene, and our good health and
+enjoyment of such company made it a happy moment. The Paymaster-general
+was leading—driving fast, as was his wont; for his driving was like
+the driving of Jehu. The Tentmaster-general was next, with a huge
+Norwegian sitting by his side. In a second came the transformation
+scene—nothing visible to the Patriarchal eye but the soles of the
+boots of the two persons in the _stolkjær_, the expanse of the huge
+Norwegian foot forming a contrast to the small neat extremity of the
+Tentmaster, who was shot out with great velocity, and stunned by his
+unavoidable concussion with the earth. We laid him in the heather by
+the side of the road, anxious for his recovery. Happily he soon came
+round, but was much shaken; it was, therefore, necessary to proceed
+very gently to avoid further shaking, and we purposed halting for a day
+or two, until we could get the advice of a doctor. It assumes the form
+of real travel when doctors are two days distant or more, and you carry
+your own lint and medicine. Thankful were we to see the return of the
+old smile on the Tentmaster’s face, and to hear from his own lips the
+welcome bulletin, “I am better.” The pony was not hurt, while the big
+Norwegian had a _skaal_ of whiskey, and, we fancied, was ready to be
+thrown out again to obtain a second remedy. Soon afterwards we arrived
+at Jolster Vand by Nedre Vasenden.
+
+[Illustration: _Norwegian Plough._]
+
+The station here is a huge—may we say dreary—wooden house. The
+next morning, however, brought its joys and happy combination of
+circumstances: the invalid was much better, the bright July morning
+perfect; there was service at the annex kirk along the _vand_, or
+lake; and we purposed going by boat with some peasants, and a most
+enjoyable row it was. As we neared the church we found many boats
+already arrived, and, invited by the loveliness of the morning, the
+beauties of Jolster had congregated and were looking their best. Many
+_stolkjærs_ were standing round the walls of the churchyard, and the
+ponies were enjoying themselves, nibbling the short grass as far round
+as their tether would allow them. There were some quaint costumes.
+These good church-going peasantry arrive early; and, as many dwell so
+far apart, and seldom meet except on these occasions or on some special
+business, we cannot be surprised to find that, instead of opening the
+meeting with prayer, the practice on the part of the men is to indulge
+in a little worldly talk before church, while the girls, according to
+custom, complete their toilettes from the contents of their _tines_,
+or travelling boxes, the said contents being a mixture of old silver
+brooches, silk handkerchiefs, and _fladbrod_: in some cases the butter
+is carried separately in a small _tine_. One incident struck us very
+forcibly—the kindly interest the girls took in the neatness and finish
+of each other’s dress. Only fancy three nice-looking _piger_, or girls,
+sitting one behind the other, each plaiting the hair of the girl in
+front of her. What absence of mystery as to capillary arrangements!
+No “Lady Audley’s Secret” (which _Punch_ said was her back hair). No;
+each girl wished her friend to look her best, and carefully adjusted a
+string here or a brooch elsewhere, for there were no looking-glasses
+about. Then there were several other objects of interest. The black
+caps of the Jolster women are very curious, with a little white showing
+all round the edge. The covering up or hiding of the hair has a very
+mediæval appearance, but the nice little stand-up collars give a more
+modern character to the neck. The plaiting of their homespun dresses is
+very close indeed.
+
+[Illustration: _The Friendly Toilette._]
+
+On this occasion there were two or three knots of people, suggestive of
+something of unusual interest; and we found the centre of each to be a
+little baby brought to be christened, surrounded by admiring relatives.
+Such babies! such funny little chrysalis-looking pets, swaddled
+and rolled up! the swaddling-bands being of many colours, the more
+brilliant the better—red, white, green, and crimson—with the cross
+frequently introduced, and generally so worked as to come uppermost in
+the band. The swaddling process seems much the same as in Brittany,
+where a ring is sometimes fastened at the back by which to hang the
+child up while the mother goes to work. No one could have seen this
+peaceful Sunday morning without being struck with the beautifully clean
+appearance of every one there—the homespun (_vadmel_) looked so sound,
+and so likely to wear well; the old silver ornaments so respectable
+and heirloomy. Of course on week-days, when the women are seen in the
+roughest of their outdoor life, it would be unreasonable to expect to
+find them as neat and prim as on Sunday. What a contrast, too, did this
+glorious sunshine and joyous meeting present to the bleak dark days
+of winter, when perhaps a hundred and fifty pairs of snow shoes, eight
+feet long, are set up round the church, waiting their owners’ bidding
+to start _home_!
+
+[Illustration: _The Lych Gate, Nordfjord._]
+
+[Illustration: _Sanoe, looking down the Valley._]
+
+After this cheerful interlude we went on to the next station—if
+such it could be called. We intended making a meal there, and rather
+looked forward to it; but nothing, not a single thing, could be had.
+We therefore made a fire, and into a black pot put some portable soup,
+with slices of Brand’s gravy-looking biscuits. Whilst the Tentmaster
+tried to do the soup the Patriarch in vain sought a wooden spoon;
+not even that was to be got; so the soup was stirred and tasted with
+a birch twig. But he made a discovery: whilst spoon-hunting in a
+drawer, which would only partly open, he saw the end of a mutton bone;
+perseverance was rewarded, the drawer was opened; but the result worse
+than a blank, for the shoulder-blade bone of mutton was bare, save the
+green fluffy mould in which it was mantled. Some people may say, “Not
+so bad; soup and biscuit, biscuit and soup, is a change.” Still, in
+long journeys with _stolkjærs_ over rough ground, you can form no idea
+how shaky and restless it becomes. Moral: always carry a spoon, and,
+above all things, never start anywhere without a nosebag with plenty in
+it.
+
+This Nordfjord district is one of special interest now, as recent
+discoveries have corroborated the old traditions of its close
+association with the Viking period—a period bearing so powerfully
+on our own national character, that the subject should be fully
+investigated, and the extant remains of the Sea Kings’ real life
+placed carefully before us. For the nonce it will suffice to refer to
+one particular tumulus, recently discovered and opened in Nordfjord.
+As Denmark rejoices in, and is much indebted to, the archæological
+enthusiasm, deep research, and sound knowledge of Professor Worsaae, so
+Norway is fortunate in having the devotion of M. Lorange, who not only
+tries to lay these precious earthbound relics before us, but actually
+rescues them for our benefit and that of posterity; not only interests
+the dry antiquarian and connoisseur, but in a far larger way draws more
+closely together the bonds of union and interest between nations. It
+is remarkable that a Roman emperor was the means of developing the
+sea powers of the Scandinavians rather than they themselves; for only
+recently some interesting coins of Marcus Aurelius have been found in a
+tumulus in Denmark.
+
+The contents of the Nordfjord tumulus were as follows:—Boat with
+iron rivets twenty-five mètres long; a bit; fifty-four bosses of
+shields, or umbos; stirrup; a drinking bowl of immense interest, and
+well enamelled; sword, with silver work; key of treasure chest, spear
+head, bone comb inlaid with colour, gold ring, dice, arrows, deck
+marbles, beads and amulets, bones of horse and kid, belt of bronze, and
+belt-knife.
+
+Having heard what tradition says about the funeral rites of the
+great ones, the contents of this tumulus, as well as the numismatic
+discoveries in Denmark, are especially interesting, as corroborative
+of history. We are much indebted to pagan customs and rites for the
+valuable materials brought to light in connection with this period.
+With Odin for their Mars, or god of war, and Thor for their god of
+air and storm, they believed that their mighty men and heroes would
+pass to Walhalla, and there enjoy the future in the same way, but
+more perfectly, that they enjoyed themselves here upon earth—strong
+symptoms of their belief in the resurrection of the body. For this
+purpose they buried with the defunct all his implements of war and
+chase; the horse was killed and placed in readiness, and, should he be
+pleased to row, his boat was there too. In the Nordfjord case the bowl
+is especially fine. Notice the delicate work in the base of it: in the
+woodcut the upper subject is the bottom of the bowl. The enamel is very
+minute; the “chequer” design, one might say, very Scotch. The enamel is
+only on the base of the bowl; the body is of bronze, and the upper rim
+is ornamented by three heads, one of which is shown in the centre of
+the illustration. This is drawn full size, and the base of the bowl one
+quarter size.
+
+The two buttons are of single wire, very rudely but cleverly arranged,
+with shanks not likely to be pulled away from the body. These are of
+gold.
+
+The key of the treasure chest would suggest that many good things had
+been stored therein. Still the list is so complete that we could hardly
+expect more items than those recorded.
+
+[Illustration: _Bronze Bowl, with Enamel Case, Swords of Viking Period:
+Bergen Museum._]
+
+The ivory or bone comb is a fine specimen, and the coloured work well
+preserved.
+
+The dice also are rather curious, as being a little longer than quite
+square.
+
+One of the most remarkable features, however, in the contents of this
+tumulus is a set of bone marbles about one inch in diameter. The sphere
+or marble is flat at the bottom, and has a small hole in it. These
+marbles were used by men who spent their lives in ships, and were
+played with on deck, the flat base being intended to keep them steady,
+while the holes at the bottom, fitting on to small pegs in the deck or
+board, prevented them from sliding as the vessel lurched. There was a
+most interesting discussion on this matter at the Society of Arts. Deck
+marbles were a novelty. Professor Bryce suggested that deck draughts
+would be a solution of the difficulty; and after referring to the
+antiquity of the game of draughts and the modes of playing, Professor
+Maguierson gave a dissertation on the ancient game of “merelles,” known
+in Iceland and Scandinavia as “mylla;” and even in the present day
+the shepherds and boys on our South Downs cut the same pattern in the
+close turf, and play the same game. We therefore come to the conclusion
+that these bone treasures had been used on board the vessels of the
+mighty Sea Kings of old, the little pegs, as just observed, preventing
+their slipping, and also the hero from losing his temper and using
+“pure Saxon.” The same precaution is in these days applied to railway
+chessmen, and also those intended for use on shipboard, each figure
+having its peg for safety and security. “Nothing new under the sun,”
+said the wise man, and true is it.
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+Eleven o’clock at night, four thousand feet above the sea, we find
+ourselves at the top of the pass, just above Udvig, looking over
+Nordfjord. After a long day, and a very hard one, pleasantly tired,
+we enjoy the scene before us: peace and tranquillity, with snow poles
+all along to suggest what winter made it. The happy moment has arrived
+to commence the descent. “Half the pleasure is in the anticipation,”
+has often been remarked: we all thought this about half-way down
+this precipitous descent in the twilight. The torrent path seemed
+filled with boulders, the ponies slid, the bipeds stumbled, and by the
+time we were half-way down we had no knees left. This is one of the
+roughest ascents and descents in Norway, and is hardly practicable for
+any kind of carriage: still it is one of the things to be done, and
+one of the charms of the country. Lazy people lose much of the grand
+scenery with which it abounds. Steady going tells best, and those who
+try to spurt early in the day are much the worse for it afterwards.
+How steadily an old Swiss guide starts off, and keeps at his pace, on
+and on! That is the only way to last. By this time we see a flickering
+light down below: we long for it, and soon arrive, but very late—about
+one o’clock A.M. We knock at the door of the station, which
+is really a private house, like that at Aurjhem, but selected by the
+Government to facilitate the wanderings of travellers. We are therefore
+the more indebted for the kind welcome we receive. Down comes the young
+son Jules, who immediately recognises our Tentmaster-general. Soon we
+have some refreshment; and not long afterwards Master Jules says, “Jeg
+schal go seng” (“I shall go to bed”). So said all of us—and we went.
+
+[Illustration: _The Pass: Moldestadt._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Post arriving at Udvig._]
+
+[Illustration: _Postman and his Carriole._]
+
+In the morning we were up early. A bathe in the fjord was our first
+thought, although the big stones are much against it, and the seaweed
+spoils it: the only way is to take a header out of the boat. After
+breakfast we espied a novelty in water travel: a large birch bough
+was seen approaching, which we soon discerned to be the postman
+availing himself of a fair wind after the usual custom here, a sail
+being too dangerous even with sheet in hand. The original and simple
+practice of cutting a large birch bough, and putting it in the bow of
+the boat, serves the purpose better, the fresh foliage holding the
+light air, and helping very materially the rower, who is frequently,
+as in the present case, of the gentler sex, but very strong. The
+postman sits complacently in the stern of the boat, with his bugle
+just announcing his arrival, and rousing up the inhabitants of the
+quiet village of Udvig. The bag is not large, but most important in
+appearance—a huge leathern mass, locked, barred, and bolted. The boat
+speedily comes to land, and the well-known sound and scrape are heard.
+The bag is soon out, and the postman also: the post has arrived at
+Udvig.
+
+We rowed out on the fjord to look up at the pass we had come down so
+early in the morning; the view was very grand, backed by the higher
+ranges of the Justedal snow. We had next to visit one spot which seemed
+a great favourite with the host and hostess, and therefore started off,
+and soon reached a position, having followed a strong stream or burn
+which came above a saw-mill, looking over which the whole fjord lay at
+our feet, the mountains on the other side looming stupendously.
+
+Returning, we visited the church and lych gate (see p. 82), the latter
+narrower and higher than usual. When we regained our station a new
+phase of life awaited and burst upon us. An invitation to a dance!
+It was somebody’s birthday—the nineteenth—a young visitor from
+Stockholm. Would we join in the festivities? We were delighted to have
+the opportunity of visiting a family on such an occasion; but the
+dancing element alarmed us when we thought of our rough boots and our
+walk down, we being rather particular, and knowing what boots should
+be. What was to be done? We shall see.
+
+[Illustration: _The Saw-Mill: Udvig._]
+
+[Illustration: _Faleidet: Nordfjord._]
+
+In the meantime two boats were watched with much interest: one
+contained the domine and family, the other some well-to-do friends. The
+hearty welcome they received was beautiful; their sweet simplicity and
+genuine affection were charming, and certainly will never be forgotten
+by us, their visitors. Soon after the arrival the repast or dinner
+was announced, and the real Norwegian customs were well placed before
+us. After one course the master and lady of the house waited on us,
+every guest getting a knife and fork; and at the end of each we went
+and shook hands with the host and hostess, the children kissing their
+parents.[3] After the fish and various solids we adjourned to another
+room for fruit, _patisserie_, coffee, and, not an unwise thing in
+Norway, a cigar. The next event was to adjourn to the garden to see a
+glorious sunset over the fjord, and to finish the cigar. During this
+agreeable part of the evening the youthful Jules, with his nice fair
+face, came and asked if the “English gentlemen would come and play
+with the girls in the garden.” The Patriarch of our party sent his two
+young bachelor companions, who readily accepted the invitation with
+a spontaneous “Oh jag!” Report says the amusements in the garden were
+a combination of hide-and-seek, Tom Tiddler’s ground, and prisoner’s
+base. Anyhow they all seemed to have enjoyed them; in fact, the
+Patriarch often regretted afterwards he did not join the youthful
+throng instead of remaining with the seniors. Still there was much
+festivity in store, and the Patriarch took kindly to the dance, which
+included schottisches, mazourkas, and valses. This brings us to the
+boot question. The dance commenced. The evening began merrily. The
+piano (for there was a piano, and a good one, from Christiania) was in
+tune, and all were thoroughly enjoying themselves, when attention was
+drawn to one dancer in particular. Sage as an owl, how silently this
+youthful Achilles glided! How softly yet firmly he trod the polished
+boards, for no juniper tips were scattered that evening on the floor!
+Why was it? The Paymaster-general, equal to the occasion, was dancing
+in goloshes! O shades of Scandinavian gods! O Thor and Odin! that this
+should be the result of civilisation in Kjære Gamle Norge!
+
+  [3] This has been referred to in former books, we are well aware, but
+could we omit a custom so expressive of gratitude? _Le bon Dieu donne
+tout_; but do we always give thanks?
+
+[Illustration: _The Olden River._]
+
+Another great feature in the evening was the singing and the national
+music—and how we did enjoy it! Need we say how they sang, and we tried
+to sing, “The Hardanger,” by H. Kjerulf, and the chorus song of “Norsk
+Sjømandssang,” by Grieg, which goes with such grand emphasis; and the
+light tripping sweetness of “Ingrids Vise,” also by Kjerulf, with its
+chorus of “Over Lynget, over Lynget?”[4] Another, specially bright and
+cheery, touched the Patriarch very deeply; he is often heard still
+humming this air “without words,” which the merry dancer described as
+being all about some beautiful creature with large blue eyes and golden
+hair. If she had but been with us to have danced with the goloshes,
+what would she have thought?
+
+  [4] See page 14.
+
+It was a delightful opportunity for us to see the _vie intime_ of a
+nice family in Norway. The welcome was most cordial; and thankful were
+we to find ourselves unexpectedly in a spot which every one tried to
+make us feel to be our home. Long may Herr Hammer, Madame Hammer, and
+their kindly family enjoy health and prosperity! and, might we say,
+continue their kindness and attention to those who go to Udvig?—for it
+seems a perfect pleasure to them to do so.
+
+[Illustration: _Lyth Fishing._]
+
+There was a disinclination to hurry from Udvig in spite of the
+fine trip before us, for it is a lovely row up the Nordfjord. The
+Tentmaster-general seemed loath to leave, he was so pleased with Jules;
+he thought he had grown—had so improved; and he determined on several
+good openings for him in London. The Paymaster-general had evidently
+made a great impression, and no wonder, with the happy combination
+of youth, a petite, petted dark moustache, and enthusiastic forehead
+and goloshes, to say nothing of really good firework execution on the
+Christiania piano. We were horrified afterwards to find that all this
+had induced the young ladies to ask him to write all our names on a
+pane of glass. In a weak moment he yielded; but why did he? How often
+have complaints been made by ourselves of the creatures who carved and
+wrote names! There were, perhaps, extenuating circumstances in this
+case. So farewell to Udvig and its pleasant associations.
+
+And now for a start up the Nordfjord to Faleidet. Such a good boat was
+supplied by Herr Hammer! How we enjoyed it, looking forward to our
+drive from Faleidet! We soon came upon a number of boats fishing for
+_lyth_, a fish caught in large numbers, easily taken, readily consumed:
+there were a great many boats, and they fish with a deep-sea single
+line, feeling the bite over the forefinger, as in Scotland. We wanted
+much to have seen some of the red sea-fish taken, which are much larger
+than the mullet, but redder in tone and of splendid colour: a noble
+fish to look at when caught, but poor on table.
+
+Faleidet is a good station, beautifully clean, and well situated over
+the water. Here we were much interested in specimens of copper ore, on
+the richness of which our native held forth most fluently. The ore was
+decidedly good, and I think in his own mind the Tentmaster had promoted
+a company, and probably thought of the youthful Jules as assistant
+secretary and foreign correspondent. No time was to be lost, so we
+hastened to our _stolkjærs_, but hardly had we reached the top of the
+hill when the Patriarch’s gimlet eye saw a long birch horn near a shed
+by the roadside. This could not be resisted. “Halt!” was the word,
+whilst the others went on. They soon pulled up, for the too-tooing was
+noisy, if deficient in harmony; still there was a certain satisfaction
+in the fact that one had elicited sound from a long birch horn, as used
+by the good people of Faleidet, inferior as these horns are in force to
+steam fog-horns, as now used at the Foreland, or the steamboat whistle
+which skewers the tympanum of every traveller at every stopping place,
+be it where it may. There is a great charm in all these old-fashioned
+ways of doing things. Again the girls call to their cows, singing
+to them in very sweet strains, and the cows follow them. It is no
+question of a subtle tin-tack looking them up, which, like the county
+of Buckingham, runs into Oxon and Herts. The whole treatment of animals
+in Norway is a good example: the kindness is consistent and the care
+unceasing. The early training of the children has much to do with this;
+at all events the youthful impressions and the influence of the parents
+have never lost one iota of good.
+
+The Nordfjord is a great inlet of the sea which runs up an immense
+distance, and greatly favoured the Viking tendencies. Many fine remains
+have been discovered, and the contents of one tumulus in particular,
+now carefully preserved in the museum at Bergen, have been already laid
+before the reader.
+
+
+Leaving the Nordfjord and passing through much that is grand, we start
+from Faleidet, and when we arrive at Haugen have a glorious view of the
+Horningdals Vand. Our hopes are buoyant, for it is a “fast” station;
+and our appetites are good. What natural beauty around us! To be happy,
+however, requires a combination that is seldom realised. In this case
+one thing was wanting, and to travellers such as ourselves it was a
+most important item—namely, food. The station was fair to view. On
+the stone steps young children were playing; and the numerous family
+were nursing each other—rollicking, chubby-faced, and unwashed: for
+Norwegian children they were merry. In the road in front of the house
+was standing a gaunt figure in knee-breeches and stockings; and,
+with his braces hauling on to the short waist, his long hair, and
+his straggling beard, he made a good type of what he really was—a
+slayer of bears. Above the entrance, over the merry group of children,
+were two bears’ skulls—the triumph, joy, and pride of the slayer.
+Being short of provisions, we soon went on a voyage of discovery, and
+investigated the interior; but what a blank it proved! The fast station
+folk knew nothing, or pretended to know nothing. “A cradle” of good
+carved wood, a bed in the corner of the room, and a fireplace seemed to
+be all in this homestead. The only _fladbrod_ we could procure was of
+that unwelcome class prepared for travelling, which means that it is
+flabby and tough enough to be rolled up and folded without breaking.
+When the practical reader thinks of the shaking, jolting, convulsive
+jerking action of _stolkjærs_, and even carrioles, no wonder this food
+is left rather doughy for its journey. Happy the man who, when he
+meets with this material, can set it up on end! Dry it to the oat-cake
+condition, then it is good indeed—very good. Still we made the best of
+it, and came to the conclusion that one of the charms of travel is the
+variety of situation; and then, after all, with pleasant companions,
+anything short of bad accidents is only the kind of thing which the
+true traveller must expect, and almost seeks. So we looked forward to
+the next good meal we could get, but which must be very late in the day.
+
+[Illustration: _Haugen, near Hellesylt._]
+
+Some one suggested the advisability of smoking down our appetites. That
+was declined as injudicious, and we longed to reach Hellesylt. The
+second stage on, near Haugen, we saw a wonderful peak. Some idea of its
+towering grandeur may be formed by setting its printed name on end. It
+has no end of a name: here it is—Horningdalskrakken. What a pity one
+cannot have time to “do” all these peaks, this one especially, isolated
+as it is, and commanding a most interesting range, with so many fjords
+at its feet, and the Hjørrendfjord and its shriven peaks bristling
+below! In these days of express trains, fish torpedoes going twenty
+knots an hour, telegrams, and instantaneous photographs, people will
+not give sufficient time to do anything with steady enjoyment. Skurry
+and scuttle are too prominent by far.
+
+[Illustration: _The Horningdalskrakken, near Haugen._]
+
+As we approach Hellesylt the mountains become higher, more bluff,
+their formation more tortuous, and we anxiously begin to look out
+for our descent to the station—town one cannot call it; in fact,
+hardly a village. Arrived at the top of the pass, with the river
+dashing and splashing, the zigzag of the road is like patent cucumber
+scissors—twenty zigzags or more. At one’s feet lie the Storfjord, the
+Geiranger district, and Søndmur. Of course there is the usual church,
+most prominently posted, with a good station, to welcome those who
+escape from Haugen’s natural grandeur to the stomachic comfort of
+Hellesylt. What a good meal we all thought supper was that night! It
+was not the mere pleasure of going in for a meal, but we had felt the
+want of it, and now were thankful to enjoy thoroughly the good cheer
+before us. There are very few parts of Norway which exceed the grandeur
+of the neighbourhood of this place. The Storfjord is immensely grand,
+but the Geiranger is a climax. The steamer from Hellesylt to Aalesund
+goes down the Storfjord, affording a great variety of scenery, with
+considerable comfort to passengers, as the vessels are well served; and
+in this case the steamer has a captain known to all who have travelled
+here, and always remembered with the most pleasing associations.
+Captain Dahl has done much for this district, and has opened up the
+unparalleled Geiranger fjord. Are not his good qualities recognised and
+noticed throughout Norway by ladies? Having said so much, we hope to
+visit Geiranger again under the captain’s kind care.
+
+At Hellesylt we all noticed a prevalence of brass-mounted belts among
+the men. Norwegian belts have invaded England and taken it by storm,
+from the luxurious productions of a Thornhill, regardless of price,
+to the other extreme, the Birmingham wholesale harum-scarum article,
+which loses its gloss in a few hours. The Norwegian belt is a national
+characteristic, adopted by both sexes, being worn on all occasions and
+for various purposes. An instance occurred when two were used during a
+trip to keep on a linseed poultice; but this was a modern innovation.
+
+We were up early indeed the morning after arrival at Hellesylt. What a
+morning! Hardly a breath as the steamer lay at the little pier waiting
+for us. We had arranged with Captain Dahl to go up the Geiranger as
+far as Maraak, so as to pass the glorious fall of the “Seven Sisters,”
+and see it in all its beauty. We were very fortunate in all the
+circumstances connected with this visit—weather fine, scenery grand,
+cicerone full of enthusiasm and information, companions reliable,
+food, after Haugen, one may say “good, plentiful and good.” The
+characteristic features of this Geiranger, which has only been known
+to travellers during the last few years, are the extremely precipitous
+façade of rocks that enclose it, the paucity of landing places, and its
+beautiful fall, the Seven Sisters. We arrived at the foot of it about
+six o’clock A.M., and, as the sun was well to the eastward,
+the effect was fairylike—the prismatic rays seemed to pervade
+the base of the fall. The Seven Sisters come over and take their first
+flight some two thousand feet above the fjord, and the streams, seven
+in number, according to the pressure of melted snow above, combine and
+separate, lose themselves in spray and spoondrift, and then collect
+again from the dripping face of the rock, and finally the whole base
+is “gauzed,” so to speak, with the dash of mist and the prismatic rays
+called by sailors “blossoms”—really portions of rainbows. We wanted
+to linger over the beauty of this spot—such delicacy of form, as the
+streams shot forth some of the rocket jets, losing themselves for a
+time, and then collecting with renewed energy for the final dash into
+the fjord; but at last even Captain Dahl goes ahead, and we steam on
+for Maraak, at the end of the fjord. Opposite to the falls we see a
+relic of old Scandinavian paganism. Jutting from steep rocks, of two
+thousand or three thousand feet, above a solitary boathouse, is shown
+a prominent rock, called the “Pulpit,” and above that the gigantic
+profile of a Viking; while higher still are situated some farms,
+well away from modern improvements. If any one dies there during the
+winter the inhabitants keep the body until the snow is sufficiently
+melted to allow of its being brought down for conveyance to Hellesylt.
+It is their custom also to tether their children, for the “go-cart”
+conveyance of the seventeenth century, as shown in Quarles’s “Emblems,”
+would soon be over the edge, urging its wild career to the depths
+below. The very thought of such a position would be enough to frighten
+some people; but how happy in themselves are these poor folks in their
+simple belief and faith, their home love and trust! How difficult is
+it to consider this kind of happiness, when the same family goes on in
+the same position in life for three or four hundred years, in the same
+costume, and with the same old silver ornaments! “How bad for trade!”
+some would say. “What stagnation! how slow!” Yet how enviable when we
+have tasted the bitters of overstrained brain-work, and the furious
+competition of millions of people, all massed and arrayed for the daily
+struggle of modern times! It is from this latter that men retire for
+awhile to take a refresher, a change of air and circumstance becoming a
+matter of necessity; and so London, after a season of gaiety and rush,
+is left in favour of outlandish places, simple fare, and, in fact, to
+get away from the daily jostle of life, to be ready for the next bout.
+
+[Illustration: _Hellesylt._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Geiranger Fjord: Seven Sisters Fall._]
+
+[Illustration: _A Breen-stok, or Bucket for Sharpening Stone._]
+
+After our return from Maraak, Captain Dahl continued his passage
+towards Aalesund. The Geiranger features were less marked until we
+arrived at an immense perpendicular surface of rock, evidently but
+recently exposed to view; and its appearance is explained by the fact
+that some years ago the whole facing of this mountain came bodily down
+into the fjord, raising an immense wave which swept across the expanse
+of water, and almost entirely destroyed the village on the opposite
+side. A more recent case occurred in the Nordfjord. The Hornelen
+Mountain rises majestically from the fjord, going down from Bryggen.
+Out of compliment to this monarch and giant a new steamer was named
+after it; and, on the first occasion of passing, the captain honoured
+Hornelen with a salvo, which was promptly answered by a great mass of
+rock being launched from the mountain side, throwing up a wave which
+nearly annihilated the saluters, and frightened some of them so much
+that they will never venture to repeat their _feu de joie_. It is
+equally dangerous to disturb or cause any considerable vibration in the
+atmosphere under glacial ice or snowdrift: many lives have been lost in
+this way, and the fact cannot be too strenuously impressed on the minds
+of all travellers.
+
+
+
+
+                                  VI.
+
+                          MOLDE AND ROMSDAL.
+
+  MOLDE—THE GOOD SHIP “TASSO”—STATLAND—AALESUND—MOLDE
+      LANDING—HERR BUCK—THE LOVE OF FLOWERS AT MOLDE—THE LEPER
+      HOUSE—MOLDE TO VEBLUNGSNÆS—THE BEAR AND THE PIGE—ROMSDAL
+      FJORD—AAK—THE RAUMA—THE OLD CHURCH OF GRYTEN—THE
+      CANDELABRA—HERR ONSUM—NÆSS—THE SKYD-GUT—THE SAIL WITH SEA
+      ROVERS—THE INEBRIATED BAKER OF WHITE BREAD—OLE LARSEN—THE
+      LAAVE—HERR LANDMARK AND THE HOTEL AT AAK—KJERULF THE
+      COMPOSER—THE ROMSDAL HORN—THE TROLTINDERNE—FIVA—THE
+      MEAL HOUSE—THE STEEN-SKREED—THE SOLGANG WIND—THE SHEEP
+      BOY AND GOAT HORN—SEA-FISHING—WOODWORK—CARRIOLES—HOW TO
+      CROSS A RIVER—OLD KYLE—MØLMEN CHURCH, AND THE SLEEPER’S
+      CURE—FLIES—SALMON-FISHING FROM A TINE.
+
+
+To those going northward Molde has especial interest for many reasons:
+its situation is beautiful, its climate delightful, its vegetation
+luxuriant, its flora abundant, and, as a centre to radiate from, it
+is most convenient. To arrive there one becomes associated _pro tem._
+with the good ship _Tasso_. “Good ship” is used, in this instance, as
+a term of affection among old Norwegians. In former days it was rarely
+that any save real sportsmen or regular fishers were to be found on
+board. Every one was known. The steward knew every one by name; the
+captain looked forward to seeing his “regulars,” and could tell exactly
+how much he would see of each individual passenger. Judging from the
+weather, he could guess the number for each festive meal in the saloon,
+and knew without a doubt who would propose to smoke a cigar on deck, or
+one more pipe before turning in, and who would be ready to spin a good
+yarn if there were any chance of conversation flagging. From Hull to
+Trondhjem a fraternity existed, on condition that no one betrayed undue
+curiosity about his fellow-traveller’s river. That condition carried
+out, any one might kill his fish over and over again, and even add a
+pound or two, rather than the relater should not be happy. The captain
+of the _Tasso_ was decidedly a favourite, and could the weather at all
+times have proved as fair as the captain himself, the _Tasso_ would
+have been always crowded with passengers; for even in spite of the
+stormy winds of the North Sea there has been such a thing as a telegram
+for the captain, hoping he would wait for the next train, as ——
+wanted to go by the _Tasso_. There is much sentiment about this dear
+old vessel. Light as a cork, in a breeze she can throw you up off your
+legs, and catch you somehow when you come down. She is lively, but that
+is better than being driven through everything, tunnelling the long
+seas. Besides, if the Saturday be very bad, and Saturday night too,
+Sunday afternoon generally improves matters, and by the evening some
+ladies venture up in the captain-cabin on deck for a little fresh air,
+and are well looked after; for the captain himself, in spite of having
+been up all night, comes out with his personal appearance unimpaired,
+and buttoning his gloves, which he wears only on Sundays. He had a
+very impressive way of buttoning the right glove, as if a great work
+had just been completed, and the mere act would revive the passengers.
+Still he was a thorough sailor and a great favourite, and everybody
+regrets that he no longer commands the _Tasso_.
+
+[Illustration: _The Landing-Place: Molde._]
+
+[Illustration: _Molde, from above the Town._]
+
+This vessel, which leaves Hull on Friday night, with her course
+north-east, ploughs, or rather bruises, the North Sea until
+Monday morning, when the first land is made, which is generally
+Statland—bluff, wild, precipitous, and if not almost uninhabited,
+at all events very sparsely populated. Having made this point, the
+_Tasso_, altering her course, runs up the coast for Aalesund, before
+reaching which the number of passengers on deck increases. Passengers
+are always divided into two classes—the well and the unwell, or
+“marines.” It is surprising how strongly the marines muster at this
+point, and discover that they would have come up before if they had
+known there was anything really worth getting up for. Not a syllable
+do they utter about how they envied those humble people who were
+always asking for more roast beef, and who relished bottled stout.
+Neptune’s habit of rocking stops many a hearty meal, and keeps many a
+visitor from Norway, levelling even the great and mighty; for even the
+president of a learned society has been seen lying on the deck, rolled
+up in a blanket, with the large red letters “Scandinavia” across his
+vertebræ, helpless and mute, though his object in coming was to talk
+Norske; but the sea god denied him the luxury until he arrived at the
+land of Thor and Odin. Aalesund will be described afterwards.
+
+[Illustration: _Sea Warehouse: Molde._]
+
+The _Tasso_ arrives at Molde on Monday afternoon or evening, according
+to the run. If it is a fine evening, what a lovely sight after the
+permanent unbroken horizon of the last three days! On the left lies
+Molde; on the right, mountains, snow ranges, islands, and fjord
+entrances running up to Veblungsnæs, Alfernæs, and Eikesdal. Some have
+described Molde as a Naples; but the two places are as different as
+is Stockholm—sometimes called the Venice of the North—from Venice
+itself. Let each have praise for its individual beauty and grandeur,
+but no comparison can well be made.
+
+[Illustration: _The Flower Market: Molde._]
+
+The _Tasso_ does not come alongside; the small coasting steamers do.
+Boats, therefore, come out, when one soon sees what seamen these
+Norsemen are; and the women are as good as the men. The principal
+figure as well as the voice most distinctly heard is that of Jacob, the
+polyglot and ubiquitous porter from the hotel. Molde was once famous
+for an hotel kept by Herr Buck and family, whose kindly reception and
+unceasing attention were a pleasure to the visitor. In front of the
+house were honeysuckles, clustering roses, geraniums—not yet called
+pelargoniums at Molde—wallflowers, fuchsias, and almost every kind
+of flower. With such good quarters, such attention, and such natural
+beauty, how could any one be disappointed in Molde? Yet so it was;
+one’s fancy was blighted by the footmark of civilisation—modern dress
+had supplanted costume. The _taille de Paris_ was attempted, although
+it has not, up to this time, much reduced the general solidity of the
+Scandinavian waist. The heads of the people are much more transformed,
+and soon become smiling victims to the first phases of the vile taste
+for artificial flowers, feathers, and tawdry finery. If they only knew
+the dignity of simplicity and the charm of good silver ornaments handed
+down for generations, they would never so debase themselves.
+
+[Illustration: _The Churchyard: Molde._]
+
+Molde is almost entirely built of wooden houses painted white. In
+the lower basement the storehouses run out over the water for some
+distance, being built on most picturesque piles of timber, with solid
+galleries, affording delightful peeps seaward. This warm spot, nestling
+under the mountains, faces the south, and is naturally celebrated for
+the vigour of its vegetation and the luxuriance of every variety of
+floral growth, which is centred in the churchyard, where every Moldean
+tries to outvie his neighbour in the culture of fair flowers on the
+graves of those dear ones who have been called home. What a beautiful
+thought is this to keep before one through life—to be called home, and
+to look upon death as a friend, or as a schoolboy does upon his exit!
+Happy indeed are those who can do so! It has a soothing influence,
+which conduces to cheerfulness in old age; and what is cheerfulness in
+old age but a looming of the immortality of the soul, as the outer case
+begins to fade away?
+
+This lovely spot has been selected as the best locality for an
+establishment to solace the poor victims of that terrible scourge of
+the North—leprosy. White as a leper, and shining as Gehazi, Elijah’s
+servant—that is the aspect of Eastern leprosy. Not so in the North.
+The features of the Northern leper become purple and hard, and the
+feet swollen and fearfully disfigured. It is brought on by the absence
+of vegetable diet and the constant use of salt fish. The hospital is
+situated outside the town, on the south-west side, and is coloured
+yellow.
+
+Many routes start from Molde, and much character may be noticed
+on board the steamers—small practical craft, with very efficient
+captains—good seamen and remarkably obliging—a quality most
+acceptable to the traveller. But this attention is only accorded to
+those who adopt the axiom of the late Dr. Norman Macleod, who said the
+best language to travel with was, “Yes, if you please,” and “No, I
+thank you,” whether in domestic life or _en voyage_. It would conduce
+greatly to home harmony if this were more generally adopted. It is a
+wholesome contrast to a woodcut in _Punch_ by that keen observer of
+human nature, John Leech, who portrayed a Transatlantic brother holding
+a revolver at the head of the person sitting next to him, adding only
+the simple words, “Pass the mustard.” To return, however, to the deck
+of the steamer.
+
+The lower class in Norway chew and expectorate; the upper class
+smoke, and some carry pipes. Carry is the correct term, for the pipe
+belongs to the class impedimenta. As the map of France is divided into
+departments, so may be the travelling pipe of Norway. First department,
+the mouthpiece; next, the elastic, to ease off the roll of steamer or
+jostle of stranger; then a huge silver tassel, generally two; then a
+stem and a joint; and finally the bowl of meerschaum. What an _écume de
+mer_! What a responsibility to travel with such an instrument! It is
+quite an apparatus—worse than a _narghile_ or _chibouque_: less coil,
+but more tassel. The bowl of the pipe is generally surmounted by a
+huge silver cover in the form of a crown. Our woodcut gives a specimen
+of one in the possession of an officer on a tour of inspection along
+the coast or fjord. As he is represented with his back to the land, it
+is only just to mention that there was some object of interest in front
+of him.
+
+[Illustration: _The Coast Inspector._]
+
+One more word for the _Tasso_. Returning from Trondhjem, she generally
+calls at Molde. Should bad weather come on, the waiting for twenty-four
+or forty-eight hours in constant expectation is wearying to a
+degree. One hardly dare patronise the good baths of Molde, admirably
+arranged as they are, so unmercifully do the jelly-fish sting; but
+the advantages of sea-bathing are irresistible, so, in spite of being
+stung, we indulge in a bath while waiting for the steamer, and in the
+midst of it we hear the alarming whistle of the _Tasso_. Rapid exit
+and hurry-skurry, in which tradition says the Tentmaster-general,
+anxious to be first, was last, from having tried to put on his flannel
+shirt without towelling sufficiently beforehand. Hurried as we were,
+there was still a ceremony to go through, which could not be omitted
+without giving offence. The bath attendant is most careful in his
+attention to visitors, who generally give him twopence. On receiving
+this honorarium he observes an old custom in Norway, that of shaking
+hands and thanking the donor; so we all kept up the good old charter,
+and received his kind wishes for our safe return to England and our
+homes. Unquestionably we carried with us delightful recollections of
+the kindness of the people, and especially of the _bönder_ folk—many
+souvenirs to remind us of localities visited, and very deep impressions
+of the charm of their simple life, undisturbed, as it seemed, by those
+little envyings, strivings, emulations, and jealousies which, like
+mosquitoes, sting and irritate, to the misery of their unhappy victims.
+
+[Illustration: _Veblungsnæs: Romsdal._]
+
+Surely the man who loves God, worships Him through nature, and traces
+his majesty in creation, would enjoy the spot depicted in the woodcut,
+where the village of Veblungsnæs is shown close to the edge of the
+fjord, backed by the snow range. What a neighbourhood to have round
+one! And what a contrast to the idea conveyed by the same word in
+modern acceptation! Here the sea-water of the fjord washes the edges of
+the hamlet, in many parts bluffly repelled by huge and mighty façades
+of rocks; there a ravine terminates in a waterfall into the sea itself.
+Valleys branch off in all directions, excursions are numerous, and many
+new ones still remain unexplored. The high fjeld is easy of access
+from Veblungsnæs, and real bear valleys are near, where Bruin exists
+and has met with his death at the hands of our countrymen. Natives
+have offered to go on the terms of “no bear, no pay.” This betokens
+an amount of practical confidence which is a prominent feature in all
+bargains between Scandinavians and our folk. Bruin is still a terror
+in some parts, and especially to the _sæter_ people, or _piger_. For
+instance, near Isterdal the following circumstance occurred to a
+friend:—Scene, lonely _sæter_. English traveller approaching. _Pige_
+appears at window imploring help and beseeching traveller’s assistance.
+A bear has been down, and killed a cow. The _pige_ positively dare
+not come out until the Englishman shoots the bear that killed the cow
+that frightened the _pige_. Now comes the sad finale. The dead cow
+could not be found, neither could the bear; and even had the latter
+been discovered, the traveller had no rifle to shoot him with. Still
+there can be no doubt of there being many yet left to be laid low by
+our enthusiastic fellow-hunters in days to come. Veblungsnæs is hardly
+appreciated by travellers, who are generally so bent on rushing forward
+to the well-known comforts of Aak, that they are blind to the beauty
+_en route_. Perhaps an innate longing to get away from villages makes
+them anxious to dive at once to the more placid and less populated
+parts. This place is generally reached by those who come from Molde
+by steamer, in which case the entrance to the Romsdal fjord is a
+grand subject, affording the most magnificent mountain and sea-scape
+combined. Happier far is the traveller who goes in a small sailing
+boat, with a good south-wester behind him, a tight sheet, and the
+water hissing away all round her, thrown off from her bows and rushing
+from her stern, as the crew lie down singing good Norske songs, some of
+which are as long as Gaelic ones; and that is saying a good deal.
+
+Veblungsnæs is close to the mouth of the Rauma, which rises in Lesje
+Vand, and after forcing its way through rocks and every kind of
+obstruction, finally finishes its course among peaceful sand plains.
+The village can boast of many good things. First, the church, or
+_kirke_, then the post-office, telegraph office, station for carrioles,
+a compulsory school, a baker of white bread, _præstegaard_, and a pier,
+to say nothing of the store or shop. Having made a bouquet of these
+charms, let us refer to them _seriatim_.
+
+The church is the old wooden structure from Gryten which was buried
+in the sand, and stood, as shown by the spire on the right hand side
+of the illustration, looking from Næss. It was moved about fifty
+years ago, and at that time was painted red, having only of late
+years assumed the more sombre hue which now characterizes its roof
+and spire—namely, black. The interior is plain fir; the pulpit is
+high up over the altar, and of a general light blue tone; while on
+the right side, on the ground, is the bishop’s stall, panelled up to
+the galleries, which go round the church. The candelabrum that hangs
+in the centre from the ceiling is very elegant in design, and made of
+pinchbeck; it is dated 1770. The silver candlesticks on the altar, one
+on each side, are large and massive; these are lighted three times a
+year—Christmas, Easter, and at the end of the forty days. The first
+priest appointed to Gryten commenced his work in 1514.
+
+Here we saw a funeral, which was largely attended, as the church is
+on a main road. The coffin was followed by seven _stolkjærs_ and many
+people, some of whom had driven on before; but there was no clergyman
+to officiate.
+
+The post-office is kept in a very unofficial way. Calling one day, we
+found that the _post kontouress_ (who, by the way, is a very superior
+person) was not at home, having left her official duties to assist
+at four o’clock tea—_société_. The postman is picturesque, with an
+enormous portmanteau, with irons, chains, and such fastenings, to
+assist in the protection of which he carries a horn and a revolver (see
+p. 87). He goes from this office to Dombaas, so that sometimes, from
+the difference of elevation, he will sledge one part regularly, and
+carriole the other. Before leaving the post-office we will thank the
+_chef_ for all her kind attentions to us and many of our countrymen.
+
+The telegraph office is admirable. English spoken, and every
+information.
+
+The carriole station is at Herr Onsum’s, who seems to be the squire
+of Veblungsnæs. Here _tout est Onsum_—hotel, boats, land, and store.
+Every one has a good word for the member of the Storthing, Herr Onsum,
+and his musical and well-educated family.
+
+[Illustration: _Carriole crossing a River._]
+
+The school is, throughout Norway, for all denominations, and compulsory.
+
+As to the baker of white bread, this personage is mentioned because
+white-bread bakers are few and far between, and a valuable adjunct
+to Fiva, where we stopped. Twice a week “our daughter” drove in from
+Fiva to the baker at Veblungsnæs, about nine miles in and nine out.
+Sometimes the white bread was not ready, and after a nine-mile carriole
+drive, with a long ford across the river, it is rather trying to go
+back empty-handed. Occasionally there were additions, such as _rød
+fiske_, or red sea-fish, like very large mullet, hanging from the
+carriole, and picturesque in colour, to say nothing of odd baskets
+banging about. We must some time have a sketch of “The Return from
+Market through the Ford, with the Skyd-gut Boy behind.” Our daughter’s
+boy was rather an old one, Ole Fiva as he called himself—the _gamel
+skyd-gut_. The occasional one was very young, and very nice indeed:
+as he did not understand English, his answers resolved themselves
+almost always into the “blushing grin” of good-hearted innocence. At
+last “mee boy Matthias”—pronounced _Matteeus_—found an outlet for
+his feelings, and brought red berries, or _tyttebær_ in his cap; and
+when he found them accepted, and that his offering gave us pleasure,
+he grinned and blushed more than ever. But why were we not sure of
+getting our white bread when we sent so far for it, hail, rain, or
+shine? For this reason. One day there was a glorious breeze out in the
+fjord, the white horses were showing their crests, while the gulls and
+terns were sweeping round us. What a day for a sail! Herr Onsum had
+a good sea-boat, and would be sure to lend it to us if we asked. We
+did. My wife, daughter, self, Ole Fiva, with three Norwegians, full of
+sea-rovers’ expeditions and sagas, for a crew, were soon on board. As
+the craft was lying by the landing-place her bowsprit naturally rose up
+and down as the waves heaved her hull, when a voice came from the end
+of it: “Ole, Ole! Spørge, Ole, spørge!” Ole took no notice, and again
+came the same appeal from a figure with a white cap and jacket. It
+was the baker of the white bread, hanging on with a desperate effort,
+asking permission to go for a sail with us instead of getting our _vid
+brod_ ready for us to take back. Judging from the uncertain movements
+of the applicant, it is to be feared the supply of white bread is
+equally precarious at Veblungsnæs.
+
+[Illustration: _Næss._]
+
+Our view of Næss is taken as looking up the Rauma River. On the left
+are the Vengetinderne, the Karlstrotind, and the Romsdal Horn over the
+valley, down which flows the river Rauma by Aak; the centre peak is the
+Mid-dag Horn; and on the right is the Isterdal valley, with the Biskop
+and Drönningen towering above. The little spire of Gryten is inserted
+here to show where it stood before its sand immersion and removal to
+its present resting-place. From this point one obtains a grand view and
+general idea of the immense sand and grit deposit collected here from
+the two valleys of the Rauma and Ister, the greater portion of which
+was ground off the sides of the valleys by the great glaciers when the
+glacial period was in full action, and before all the mighty ice giants
+melted at the presence of the new visitor to the coasts of Norway, the
+gulf stream. All down the valleys the rocks are worn and ground round
+by the _débris_ in the ice as it passed down. Only some such phenomenon
+as that referred to could have so raised the temperature and worked
+such changes.
+
+On the following page an old friend is shown at work by the
+riverside—Ole Larsen, a shoemaker of simple habits and small
+_clientèle_, but very large family, about eighteen in number. Unlike
+many of our followers of St. Crispin, he begins _ab initio_, with
+the skin as removed from the animal, and is now getting the hair off
+previously to tanning. It can well be imagined that Ole Larsen does
+not do a large business in the course of the financial year, and the
+family seldom get meat, their whole nourishment being _brod og smör_,
+bunkers, and cow comforts.
+
+The Norwegian farm-building is called a _laave_, and is so constructed
+that the hay-carts can drive right in under cover, and be unladen at
+convenience: underneath are generally stables and a cow-house. Such a
+_laave_ as the one shown on p. 116 will hold three ponies and about
+twelve cows. During the summer the cows all go up to the _sæter_, and
+about September return to the valleys, preparatory to their winter
+session, when, poor things, they are generally shut up from October
+right through the winter, till spring comes with all her brightness,
+and releases these long-pent prisoners from their thraldom. It is an
+amusing sight to see them first at liberty when the snow has melted
+in the valley. They gallop, kick, frisk, career, and chase each
+other; and the ponies join in the festivities with the cows and the
+goats, and rejoice together for a time, until all finally agree that
+there is nothing like good quiet steady grazing, to which they betake
+themselves.
+
+[Illustration: _Ole Larsen, our Shoemaker._]
+
+
+Here seems centred all that is grand in nature, bold in outline,
+interesting in geological formation, with the constant registers of
+the ice passage down the valley, as it existed before the glacial
+period was melted away by the influence of the gulf stream. The whole
+valley suggests the idea of the crust of the earth having cracked in
+cooling, the fissures forming these immense valleys. At the entrance
+of the latter, as the river approaches the fjords or the sea, large
+plateaux of sand have been deposited in past ages, and through these
+sandhills the river forces its way, very frequently altering its
+course, until finally it reaches the sea. These sand plateaux or
+ridges are very distinctly shown at the entrance of the Rauma River, a
+little above Veblungsnæs, and being exposed to the winds through the
+two valleys—Romsdalen and Isterdalen—a change on the dry sand is
+perceptibly going on at all times. This is especially to be noticed
+at a spot called Gryten. In the maps it is marked as a church, and
+a church there once was in the position indicated; but, as we have
+already observed, it was so sanded up that it was taken to pieces and
+removed to Veblungsnæs away from the sand-storms, and just bordering on
+the fjord.
+
+The tourist of the promiscuous class is sure to rejoice in this part of
+Romsdal, as here is situated an old farmhouse, now adapted to modern
+customs, and purveying comforts of all kinds not generally found in
+Norway. A friend, visiting this happy spot some twenty years ago,
+was kindly received by the proprietor, Herr Landmark, who is still
+spared to conduce more than ever to the increasing wants of Norwegian
+travellers. By degrees the farmhouse has developed, and is now, with
+its new _annexe_, generally spoken of as the “Hotel at Aak.” Still,
+how different is it from the modern idea of such things! Very much of
+the leaven yet remains— the same kindly reception, and the _likkelig
+reise_ to the parting guest. Many ask regretfully as they leave the
+entrance of the house—in itself a picture: up four wooden steps to
+a stage with two small tables and seats—where such is to be found;
+others, perhaps just arrived, feast their eyes on the view over the
+Rauma towards the Drönningen and Biskop, in Isterdal; while others,
+again, anxiously watch for the first peep of the Romsdal Horn. Over the
+door and by the side clusters generally a glorious honeysuckle, which
+grows most profusely, and adds much to the picturesqueness. Inside, to
+the left, is the _salle à manger_, out of which leads a small room,
+which is, I believe, now generally left for any ladies stopping in
+the house. Not much monotony is there, but many delightful evenings,
+with a little music, and sometimes an exceedingly good rendering of
+Mendelssohn, Schumann, Offenbach, or even the severe but sterling
+Beethoven.
+
+[Illustration: _The Farm at Aak._]
+
+One evening, after a very earnest attempt on the part of our coterie to
+sing some Norwegian songs by Kjerulf, it was discovered that amongst
+those listening outside was the brother of the composer, Professor
+Kjerulf, now of the Geological chair at Christiania. He expressed
+himself as being highly gratified with the English appreciation of
+his brother’s undoubted talent. All this musician’s work has great
+individuality and crispness, and his airs always “go” well. Hear his
+“Brudefærden.”
+
+[Music: BRUDEFÆRDEN I HARDANGER.
+
+  SUNG AT BUVALDEN AND THORBU-SÆTER.
+
+  Words by A. MUNCH.                    Music by H. KJERULF.
+
+  Der aander en tin-dren-de Som-mer-luft varmt o-ver Har-danger
+      fjords Van-
+  de, hvor højt op mod Him-len i blaa-lig Duft de mæg-ti-ge Fjel-de
+  stan-de; det skin-ner fra Bræ, det grøn-nes fra Li, sit
+      Hel-lig-dags-
+  skrud staar E-nenkæde i; thi se——, o-ver grønkla-re Bøl-ge hjem-
+  gu-der et Bru-de-føl-ge. O-ho! aahej! la la la  la la la la la
+  O-ho! aahej! la la la  la la la, thi se, o-ver grønkla-re Bøl-ge
+      hjem-
+  gli-der et Bru-do føl—-— ge. O-ho——
+  —— ——]
+
+[Illustration: _The Troltinderne by Moonlight._]
+
+The previous woodcut shows the north side of the house and
+farm-buildings. The _stabur_, or provision-house, is there, with the
+bell above. This bell is rung regularly for the farm labourers to come
+in, as they are always fed by the _bönder_, and the meals, though
+very simple, seem frequent. It was at this good hostelry that Lady Di
+Beauclerc stopped and described the French count who was in search of
+good “chase” of reindeer there, and the lady whose pursuit was _le
+saumon_, and who had a fly of the same colour as her costume. One
+becomes imperceptibly very curiously impressed by an association of
+ideas. Several people have mentioned that they felt rather surprised
+that they had never seen the count with his French hunting horn, nor
+the lady. There is still an idea that their ghosts linger about the
+spot, waiting, we suppose, for the reindeer and the salmon to come to
+them. The friend who was so kindly received here some twenty years ago
+was offered a little fishing by Herr Landmark. A portion of the river
+Rauma runs in front under the house, and the good sport made the happy
+fisherman rabid for life on salmon: he has been to Norway almost every
+year since, and taken many with him.
+
+A few miles above Aak, leaving the sand plateau behind, we enter the
+Romsdal valley proper, with the Romsdal Horn rearing its grand peak
+on the left. The Troltinderne, or the Witches, is one of the most
+remarkable groups of fantastically jagged rocks in Norway, ever varying
+in effect, the mist wreathing and most delicately veiling or throwing
+a film over them, which makes them more gigantic and weird than ever.
+The outline of the peaks when clear is very serrated indeed, and with
+the Northern people a fair share of superstition attaches to them.
+These two elements have brought about the tradition that the series of
+_aiguilles_ represent a wedding party going to the church. First, the
+_spilleman_ (fiddler), then the _kanderman_ (best man) with a tankard;
+the next large peak is the priest; then come two peaks, turning away as
+it were one from another: these were the unhappy bride and bridegroom,
+who foolishly and injudiciously quarrelled. Next come the father and
+mother. But the most curious character yet remains. By the side of a
+sharp point is a mass of rock, which certainly does look very much like
+a figure: this is the disconsolate lover, who, seeing that the bride
+and bridegroom had already quarrelled, makes a frantic rush to cut in
+and carry off the lady. This must have been the precise moment when
+they were all turned into stone, and so they remain, a warning to all
+frequenters of the valley. That the peasants believe in spirits and
+“little people” living on the fjeld, even in this year of grace, cannot
+be denied, as they say they do; but why they should think that these
+little people have blue heads I cannot imagine.
+
+[Illustration: _Meal House: Fiva, Romsdal._]
+
+Exactly opposite to the Romsdal Horn, on the other side of the valley,
+is an immense _couloir_, originally an enormous landslip, leaving the
+perpendicular sides of the Troltinderne to gradually crumble and fall
+down, the finer stuff and _débris_ filling up the interstices between
+the bigger rocks. After frost the thunder of the falling rocks and
+stones into this terrific shoot will last as long as thirty seconds,
+and the nightfalls create constant alarm to new-corners; whereas the
+_elve-wakker_, or river-keeper, merely remarks, “The old ladies are
+quarrelling,” or “The old ladies have finished _aftenmad_ and are
+throwing out the bones.” Still, this brings about a new range of
+thought to a person who has never observed portions of the earth’s
+surface in motion. After seeing a huge rock, the size of a stucco-faced
+villa, hop down the side of a mountain, there arise a certain
+impressiveness and grandeur unknown before. About once a year there is
+an important landslip in Norway—hardly more. Most of the loose rocks
+have their regular grooves, and the peasants know how to avoid them;
+still, as the vast country is so sparsely inhabited, many must occur
+which do not “get into the papers.” A curious instance of the effect
+of a small landslip occurred in this valley to an old man personally
+known to us. A slip came down behind his house, of good timber stuff,
+and fortunately stopped just short of it. He and his wife decided to
+leave, and go to live at a place called Aalesund; they did so for a
+twelvemonth, after which time they became home-sick, and, chancing
+all further damage, returned to the old house, where they were living
+very happily last year. In another part a description will be given
+of an important _steen-skreed_—a scene of terrible destruction and
+considerable interest.
+
+[Illustration: _The Laave at Fiva: Romsdal._]
+
+The centre of the valley has two or three good farms, highly productive
+for Norway, and presenting a very curious appearance to a foreigner
+when the corn is cut, as the sheaves are stuck upon a pole, sometimes
+five, sometimes ten, with the head facing the sun, and, as the sun
+works round, the heads of corn are kept turned to it, so as to get the
+greatest amount of heat, which is an advantage when the peasants arrive
+at the happy time for carrying their corn, as they have only to pull up
+the stakes with the five or ten sheaves on them, and they are easily
+carried. Whilst on the subject of corn-drying, it is a most remarkable
+thing that during the fine weather of the short Norwegian summer the
+wind helps materially by blowing what the natives call a _sol-gang_:
+the wind goes round with the sun all day, beginning to blow from the
+east in the morning, clue south at mid-day, and north-west in the
+evening.
+
+[Illustration: _Rauma River Boat._]
+
+Having paid especial notice to the Trols, we must turn to the Horn,
+which rises on the left side: 4,000 feet is the height of it, and it
+goes sheer up out of the valley; in fact, one morning, as we were
+sitting by the river, a carriole came hurrying by, and a voice from
+it inquired, “Where’s the Horn?” The old fisherman with me stared at
+the flying folk in search of information, and pointed straight up over
+our heads. The summit has never been reached yet, either by the
+Government engineers who surveyed the country, or by Alpine men, who
+have all given up the Aiguille Dru as hopeless, or by captive balloon,
+which has been proposed. A very likely party from a yacht made a bold
+attempt at it, but even some of these looked upon it as a hopeless
+case, from the fact that there is a lean-to on a huge shoulder on the
+north-west side. Perhaps the most beautiful time of all to see this
+wild valley is after the first sprinkling of snow, when the tops are
+powdered, which happens when the “iron days” come, the first snow
+falling about August 20th. After a little sharp frost the weather
+recovers from its first shudder, but by the 29th of September all is
+snow again down to the river. Patches of old snow are always lying
+in the valley, even during the hottest summer, but much more in the
+_couloir_; and, from the immense scale of everything here, the real
+quantity is most difficult to appreciate.
+
+[Illustration: _Romsdal Snow._]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At the foot of this Romsdal Horn is the Rauma itself, the first fall
+caused by the rocks thrown down when the _couloir_ was originally
+formed; and between the river and the base of the Horn runs the road
+through the valley to Gudbransdalen. There are a few sheep here in the
+advanced farms, and these, like all animals in Norge, are wonderfully
+docile. For some time we heard sounds of music at a distance, but
+could never discover either the music or the musician, until one day
+a boy was found playing in a barn, or _laave_, on a goat’s horn with
+six holes in it, and with a reed mouthpiece. The sound is quaint. This
+instrument was intended and used for the amusement of the sheep, and
+the boy’s mission was to play to them on it. The sheep and goats here
+always follow instead of being driven; and, like all other animals in
+this country, they are remarkably tame, never exhibiting the least
+signs of fear. This is another pleasant feature resulting from the
+kindliness of the people and their domestic happiness. Long may both
+remain to them!
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+The sight of the square-sailed craft with one mast and a bold rampant
+black stem at once shuts out all intrusive thoughts of civilisation,
+for these same vessels—relics of very old days—are seldom seen
+anywhere save on the wild shores of Heligoland, working down to Bergen,
+or still farther south round by the coast, and up to the town of
+Christiania. These craft are mostly from the north of Trondhjem: their
+lines are very fine indeed forward, the after part, with quarter-deck,
+forming a kind of citadel for the captain. As these vessels come from
+the coast opposite to the Lofoden, they are closely allied with the
+fishery of that district—the great national fishing ground of Norway,
+to which rushes every able-bodied fisherman from Bergen northwards
+as far as the North Cape. In the month of February the fish are
+in force—principally early arrivals; and ultimately such immense
+quantities are gathered together that tradition has handed down to us
+as a fact that there are times when a deep-sea line will hardly sink
+through them. Lines and nets are both worked with the greatest system.
+The take is generally tremendous, and the results lucrative. The fish
+are cured as stock-fish until April, when they are split, salted, and
+dried on the rocks like Scotch cod. It is a simple process to gut and
+hang up these cod-fish two and two across poles; not even salt is
+used—nothing but the sea breezes, sun, and wind. Many years ago the
+takes were even more enormous than at present, amounting to as much as
+16,000,000 fish, or 8,000 tons dried, to say nothing of the cod-liver
+oil and roe; but when we consider that these fish are gradually
+dispersed over Europe, even 8,000 tons would soon go during the period
+of a continental Lent. About April most of the fishers return home, and
+are ready for any chance of herrings, which are as great a blessing to
+the Norwegians as to the Scotch and Irish.
+
+There was a very striking instance of an old custom in one of the
+outlying fjords, where the fashion of bygone centuries is still
+faithfully kept up. At the entrance of the fjord is a boat, in which is
+stationed the watcher, with a horn or bugle. As soon as the herrings
+are descried the watcher, or rather the look-out, stands up in the bow
+of the boat and sounds his horn. The notes are quickly caught by the
+anxious longing ears on the beach, the boats put off, and soon the
+herrings feel that they are “fish out of water,” and will ere long
+be adding much to the happiness and support of all the _bönder_ and
+agricultural peasantry of the neighbourhood.
+
+[Illustration: _Making for the Fjord._]
+
+Near our herring scene was a well-to-do but scattered hamlet, for
+it could scarcely be called a village; and, having visited some of
+the good people, who were much interested in the foreigners—N.B.,
+it is a curious sensation when it first dawns upon the mind of an
+Englishman that he is a regular foreigner in the eyes of others—we
+came to the conclusion that, all in all, the Norwegian _bönder_, as
+a class, are more comfortably provided with the good things of this
+world than any other of similar position. Their outdoor life brings
+sound health; they work hard, especially the women; and their reward
+is abundance. Their farms produce all they require to eat, drink, and
+even wear. In the fine weather they work for internal comforts; in
+the bad winter weather they provide for external wants in the form of
+carding, combing, and weaving in their houses, and making _vadmel_,
+or homespun—a material in which “shoddy” is unknown, and for which
+“everlasting wear” is the best name. They have their ponies, their
+boats, a wholesome love of God, and veneration for true, practical
+religion. Their houses are of their own building—sound, solid, and
+warm. There is no money greed amongst them, until spoilt by tasting
+the fruit of the tree of civilisation, and then the reaction is all
+the worse. Another great blessing that remains to them is, that there
+is no tendency to extravagance, no wish to launch out in competition
+with their neighbour. A peaceful, contented, simple life seems to them
+the _summum bonum_: this they possess, and are careful not to part
+with. Until savings-banks were introduced they really had no use for
+money, and when they acquired silver, instead of investing it, they
+had something new made of it, in this respect strongly resembling the
+old Dutch farmers, who were sometimes quite at a loss to know what
+they should have made next. The latter, indeed, went so far as to have
+candle-boxes, as well as other domestic utensils, of silver. Again,
+Norwegian servants are in good relationship with their masters and
+mistresses: much kindly feeling exists, coupled with a sense of duty
+and a proper regard for relative position, which is never forgotten.
+
+We have mentioned the “home-madeness” of everything in a Norwegian
+farmer’s house; but we have yet to refer to the woodwork supply,
+namely, sledges, agricultural implements, _stolkjærs_, rakes, scythe
+handles, carrioles, tankards, teenas (written _tine_), butter-boxes,
+and bedsteads. These last-mentioned items are the worst things
+produced in the country. The beds are all too short—never are they
+long enough. It seems as if the Norwegian has not quite grown out of
+the idea that in sleep the body should be bent up with the knees to
+the chin, and in the Isle of Skye tradition assigns to the Norsemen
+certain stone graves composed of nearly square slabs. The only way in
+which a tall traveller in Norway can avoid pushing his feet through
+the footboard is by bending his body up. The best carrioles are built
+at Drammen and Christiania, but they are advanced specimens, with
+springs; and springs are considered a little foppish, as well as liable
+to break, length of shaft being all the spring required. When these
+vehicles have to go on to steamers or large boats—a very frequent
+necessity, as the whole seaboard is constantly incised by fjords and
+arms of the sea—it is usual to take off the wheels, when the body is
+soon removed. Where rivers have to be crossed, and a small boat only
+can be procured, the best way is to bring the latter side on to the
+carriole, place a plank with one end on _terra firma_, and the other
+on the gunwale of the boat, where the wheel of the carriole nearest to
+the shore should ultimately go. The object of this is to run the wheel
+along on this plank to ship the carriole in the boat. This done, there
+is still a difficult part to be performed: the river has to be crossed,
+and if once the balance is lost, all is over. The rush of the river
+is very strong in parts, but even a kind of race makes no difference.
+A pull on one side, then a shoot and a pull on the other, and smooth
+water is reached, safety insured, and the carriole is over. Sometimes
+a river may be forded, but great care should be taken, as the want of
+local knowledge may in a moment cause a loss of life, or at all events
+a ducking.
+
+We were once fording a river when Old Kyle, our blind dog, was
+travelling very comfortably in a dog-bag, or _hund sac_, under the
+carriole. The excitement and novelty of the ford made us forget our old
+pet, and the first hint we had of his discomfort was the sorry sight of
+the dog vainly endeavouring to stem the current, while the only way of
+recovering him was by wading back. The carriole is used for everything;
+even the post-carrier is a carriole-driver, and is provided with a
+huge leather bag or portmanteau, with an iron rod running through it,
+and padlocked at the end. The postman carries a revolver, more as a
+staff of office or official status than anything else, for no one ever
+hears of such a thing as a robbery in this part of the world. The last
+few years have brought about a very great facility of communication in
+Norway, for which all travellers are much indebted to the energy of the
+Government. One can telegraph to any part of Norway for tenpence, and
+the stations are numerous—surprisingly so, when the extent of country
+and sparseness of population are considered; and for English travellers
+the convenience is very great, because almost all the telegraph-station
+masters speak and write English well.
+
+[Illustration: _Shipping a Carriole._]
+
+The woodcut (see page 55), with the sea-houses close to the water and
+_jægt_ lying close in, shows the character of the country round that
+beautiful spot in the Hardanger fjord generally known as Rosendal,
+a place of great interest to the historian as the last seat of the
+Norwegian nobility. Nestling in a wood on the rising ground beyond the
+seashore lies this baronial residence, the home of the “last of the
+barons.” Baron Rosenkrone still lives there, and in this secluded spot
+art has been cherished and loved, for Rosendal possesses a collection
+of pictures which is considered the finest in Norway. Who would
+expect, after trudging for nine hours over the snow expanses of the
+Folgefond, and rapidly descending on the Hardanger fjord, to find there
+such examples of highly civilised life?
+
+Close to this point is the island of Varalsoe, famous for its sulphur
+mines. It lies out of the regular beaten track, but is sometimes
+visited by the _Argo_ when the steamer is ordered to call for a
+freight. On such occasions the vessel is naturally light, and the first
+shoot of ore sent into the hold from the shipping pier above is, of
+a truth, a shock to the strongest nerves; the rattle and bang of the
+first few waggon or truck loads would startle any one, and make him
+fancy they would go through the ship’s bottom and sink her. Not so,
+however: the people here understand their work, and it is not by any
+means the first time they have shot ore into an empty hold. May it not
+be the last!
+
+
+[Dropcap caption: _Grave-board, Mølmen Churchyard._]
+
+The Gudbransdalen valley is characterized by an immense _vand_, or
+lake, which is the source of the two rivers Rauma and Logen, the former
+running south-east, and the latter north-west into the Christiania
+fjord. Coming up from the Rauma valley, it was twilight as we reached
+the plateau of this upper valley, lying about 4,000 feet above the
+sea—a vast mass of far-stretching moorland, with heather, matted
+cotoneaster, and every variety of berry, in all the prismatic colour of
+the west coast of Scotland, but more vast, mysterious, and weird; and
+like witches looming moodily away from anything with life, we came ever
+and anon on some bleached relic of the grandeur of those noble Scotch
+firs which now seem fast fading away into mere skeletons and dried
+bones, the fibre in many cases appearing twisted like the strands of a
+rope, as though the dissolution had been one of agony and torture.
+
+Soon after passing a monolith supposed to have been erected to the
+memory of Sinclair and his Scots we approach Mølmen. Judging from
+its appearance on the map, any one would fancy it to be a town. Such,
+however, is not the case, for it merely consists of a church school,
+open on alternate Sundays, and a station, or farm, for the convenience
+of travellers. Within the last few years this station has greatly
+improved. We arrived late in the evening, and, feeling very chilly,
+huddled up to the fireplace. As we inquired from the _pige_ what
+_aftenmad_ we were likely to obtain, from the depths of the dimness
+of darkness muffled peals came from under a heap of “somethings” in a
+long parallelogramic case, but really a bed, containing the mistress of
+the house, and the muffled peals were to summon a supper for us, and
+quickly. So delighted were we get it, that we said “Tak for mad” before
+we began, instead of waiting till we had finished.
+
+The church is of wood, larger than most Norwegian churches, and has a
+spire with four turrets, each with an elaborate weathercock. Mølmen
+must at one time have had weathercock on the brain, for there is one
+at the end of the roof, another on the top of the spire and on each of
+the turrets, and even one on the lych gate. This crop of ironwork is
+accounted for by the fact of there having been iron works at Lesje,
+some seven miles farther to the eastward. Passing through the lych
+gate, which is ponderous, the grave-boards attract attention from their
+variety; one in particular had the novel feature of a weathercock on
+the top, and at the back might be seen quite a contrast in sentiment—a
+small simple iron cross firmly mortised into the solid rock.
+
+[Illustration: _Interior of Mølmen Church._]
+
+Entering the church, the general appearance is most striking, very
+quaint old carving, rudely painted—most comically rudely painted,
+especially on the rood screen, which is above—running from the pulpit
+to the two pillars in the centre, through which the altar is seen. The
+church floor is strewn with juniper tips, and the altar covered with
+a white linen cloth, whereon were two large candlesticks, which are
+lighted in the great festivals. The panels of the altar are painted in
+rather good colour, the back of it being of a slate colour; and, on the
+right side of it, standing back, is the carved stall for the use of
+the bishop when he visits the district. On the rood screen, over the
+centre, are the arms of King Christian V., with supporters, and above
+these a large but very uncouth figure of the Saviour on the cross,
+with I. H. S. above. On each side is a figure rudely carved
+and painted, as is the case with the pulpit. There are traces, too, of
+the delightful annual custom of these good people, who, when the summer
+bursts suddenly and joyfully upon them, and the flowers come rapidly
+out, cull the earliest, and take them to the church as first-fruits of
+thankful joy. After viewing the front of the altar we went round to the
+back of it—the Sanctum. This was a treat. There we found old silver
+chalices and curious cases for the sacred wafers; for these good people
+consider the form of worship immaterial, if the spirit be sound. The
+size of the wafer is about one inch and a quarter in diameter.
+
+A very fine old vestment is still worn for the communion; it is richly
+brocaded, with a large purple cross on the back, and in the centre
+of this is a brass crucifix. The verger said it was a pity to have a
+new one until this was worn out. It certainly wears well, for it has
+been in constant use ever since the Reformation. The great feature,
+however, has yet to be noticed. A curious instrument is used as a
+persuader during the service: it consists of a pole, painted red, about
+eight feet long, with a knob at each end. On inquiring the use of this
+instrument and for what ceremonial, the verger, with surprise at our
+ignorance, said, “To wake the sleepers.” How? “Here, sirs,” continued
+he, placing his hand on his waistcoat, as indicative of the best place
+to tilt at effectually. The reader will be glad to know that the knobs
+did not betray much sign of wear.
+
+We must now return to the station, which is associated with greyling
+in the river, and wood-carving executed during the winter months in
+the farmhouses—spoons, bellows, tankards, mangel brats, and culinary
+implements. It was our good fortune to meet at Mølmen a delightful
+Austrian—his grey and green jacket informed us of that fact—but his
+general information was an oasis for travellers. A great botanist,
+it was delightful to go out with him, especially as he was, at that
+moment, perfectly mad about saxifrages and the flora of Norway. Then,
+again, “flies.” He had been up the North Cape, to the Namsen and other
+large rivers, and some one had given him a few Namsen “Butcher’s”
+salmon flies of immense size. These he showed to us; and we, finding
+him so interested, asked him if he would like to see our collection
+of _natural_ flies. “Certainly.” The flies we exhibited were the
+mosquitoes we had shut up between the leaves of note-books when the
+flies had been thickest in our tents on a warm evening. “Ah!” exclaimed
+our Austrian, “ten tousand of dose fellows did I swallow at the North
+Cape, and they bite all the way going down.” Happily, however, he had
+survived. We also met here a distinguished Prussian—large forefinger
+ring, _très Prussien_—whose favourite exercise at the festive board
+astonished us. Mountain strawberries at Mølmen are a treat, and at
+dinner we had some. Our aristocratic foreigner plunged them into a
+tumbler of sparkling wine, but alas! how did he extract them? The
+Count must have been in a lancer regiment, for with a tent-peg action
+he tried to pig-stick each strawberry and raise it to his mouth with
+his toothpick, persevering until the tumbler was emptied, and the last
+strawberry pierced and entombed.
+
+[Illustration: _A Norwegian Salmon Stage._]
+
+In passing along the shores of the fjords a kind of stage may be
+seen occasionally, which would give the casual observer an idea of
+preparations for pile-driving; but the object of this construction
+is for quite a different purpose. It is one of the dreadful means
+used by the Norwegian farmers to obtain salmon. The system is
+this:—_Netting_.—A man sits in the perch-box; the net is laid round
+to the buoys as indicated in the previous illustration, and, as soon
+as the fisherman (if he may be designated by that name) sees a salmon
+underneath and within his net limit, he hauls in, and generally gets
+him. The salmon, being in the habit of returning to the same river or
+_fos_, are sometimes the victims of an inquiring mind in the following
+manner:—The Norwegian whitens the face of the rock, or places a light
+plank so that the fish’s attention may be attracted, and, whilst making
+up his mind as to whether it may be right or wrong, his fate is sealed,
+and he will soon be hung up in the farmer’s house, with two sticks
+across his body. After it has been rubbed with sugar and smoked in
+juniper fumes it is certainly a goodly adjunct to a breakfast; but when
+the weary traveller finds only smoked salmon, he cannot help thinking
+of the days when he was young, and had fresh meat regularly.
+
+[Illustration: _Hardanger._]
+
+When coming down from the Haukelid Pass out of Sæterdal to the
+Hardanger, we had not time or space to refer to a very beautiful
+passage between the two, which we will now notice. We came from
+Haukelid a little gloomy; we had seen a corrie which had been the
+scene of a reindeer slaughter, or Glencoe, the result of misplaced
+generosity on the part of an Englishman to a Norwegian. The former had
+given the latter a double-barrelled breech-loading rifle, with a good
+battue supply of cartridges. The consequence was that the local Nimrod,
+assisted by a confederate, drove a herd of reindeer into a _cul-de-sac_
+corrie, and then shot down more than twenty. This was worse than
+the friend who gave his river watcher a salmon rod and flies; the
+_elve-wakker_, or keeper, fished hard with fly and worm, and with much
+glee wrote to his lord and master in England that he had caught “plenty
+salmons, or _stor lax_,” and the river would soon be ready for him, but
+he would like two new tops brought out for the rod so kindly given to
+him.
+
+Journeying from Haukelid, we came down to Roldal, where the pass
+combines to produce a scene of great grandeur. The old wooden bridge,
+the blustering torrent falling with ponderous leap down into a chasm
+below, the serenity and peace of the distant snow range, and the placid
+lake far, far below, formed a combination which causes regret that it
+can never be adequately depicted on paper. The scenery is immensely
+grand, the living proportionately sparse and meagre. It is the old
+story, the quotation of Bennett’s Guide-book—“Magnificent waterfall at
+back; only two wooden spoons at this station.”
+
+A tremendous zigzag is being cut by the Government in connection with a
+road which is ultimately intended to be opened over the pass. From the
+top of this zigzag a very commanding view is obtained of the valley of
+Seljestad and the Folgefond—an immense expanse of snow. We were very
+tired on arriving at Seljestad, and could get nothing but a recorked
+bottle of beer, which must have been put back several times on being
+declined by previous travellers. There was nothing to eat or drink;
+but such a _blakken_, or Norwegian pony, was put into No. 3 carriole,
+with the proprietor up as _skyds_. Having gone about five miles, the
+owner thought that the animal was not showing what he could do, or
+even up to his fair average; so, taking the rope reins, he stood up at
+the back of the carriage, grunted at him, and with deep growlings of
+“Elephanta!” sent him flying at a tremendous pace downhill, and, when
+far down the valley, we flew along the road through the spoondrift of
+two fine falls. The owner explained that the pony hated being called an
+elephant, and always went better when a little abused.
+
+
+
+
+                                 VII.
+                        THE FJELD AND REINDEER.
+
+  OPENING DAY FOR REINDEER—AALESUND—AURORA
+      BOREALIS—INQUIRING FRIENDS—BERRY VARIETIES—TO THE
+      FJELD—NECESSARIES—REINDEER-FLOWERS—TO THE TENTS—THE
+      DOGGIES—DANJEL AND OLE—MØLMEN—THE ARRIVAL—OUR
+      CONCERT—PTARMIGAN—REINDEER SPÖR—TROUT-FISHING IN THE
+      VAND—GOOD SPORT—THE TENTMASTER’S STORY—PASSOP AND THE
+      STOR BUCK—SNOW-WORK—SÆTER LIFE—MARITZ’S LONELY STATE—HER
+      KINDLINESS—THE SWIZZLE-STICK—THE OLD BOAT—THE EAGLE AND
+      NEST—REINDEER AND RED DEER HEADS—THE DIFFICULTY OF GETTING
+      THEM—INDFJORD—OLE ERIKSON BOE—HALVER JACOBSEN—INGEBORG AND
+      THE STEEN-SKREED—INGRANA’S ACCOUNT—INGEBORG’S FUNERAL—RUNIC
+      STONE—GRAVE-BOARDS—ISTERDAL—THE MEAL-MILL—OLD KYLE—A
+      SIMPLE-MINDED COW—OLE FIVA—AIGUILLES—VALDAL—THE SOURCE OF
+      THE ISTER—EXPEDITION TO A FROZEN LAKE.
+
+
+Ever and anon we arrive at some landmark in life which stands out
+prominently for the rest of our terrestrial journey. Perchance it
+is one that, surrounded with pleasant associations, invites us back
+to chew the cud of past happiness, and rises before us as an angel
+of comfort from time to time, when shadows, storms, or squalls of
+trouble cross our path, or the hurry-skurry of advanced civilisation
+has ruffled our calmer nature, and we have become irritable and
+overstrained, liable to spontaneous combustion of temper, and less
+kindly than usual. Such a happy landmark is “after reindeer” in
+Norwegian travel. Let us, then, look back to it, and enjoy it over and
+over again; and may others derive equal pleasure from similar outings!
+
+The 1st of August is the opening day for reindeer-shooting. About the
+end of July the enthusiasm gradually increases, everything is supposed
+to be ready, lists are gone over, fine weather hoped for, and the 1st
+of August eagerly anticipated. On our way to Gudbransdalen we stopped
+at Aalesund for the night; and what a night! We had hardly settled
+down to our _aftenmad_, or supper, before a servant came in to tell us
+of a grand sunset, which she thought the English gentlemen would like
+to see. We all rushed up-stairs, clambered through attics, and finally
+came out on a kind of platform; and what a sight met us here! The whole
+heavens were bathed in the most astounding crimson; at our feet lay
+the harbour of Aalesund, and on the horizon, out in the Atlantic, long
+ultramarine-purple islands. It was sundown in its most intense arctic
+grandeur, with a few golden scraps of cirri in the upper heavens. So
+impressed were we that we mused in silence; adjectives had no power of
+expression; and we tacitly admired with awe and reverence.
+
+On our return to the table some Cantabs had just arrived, and finding
+we were compatriots, the all-prevailing subject of the latter days of
+July rose to the surface. “Were we going after reindeer?” was followed
+by a sort of mitrailleuse volley of cognate inquiries. They had heard
+of three Englishmen—did we know them? as they were anxious to meet
+them before starting. At last the suggestion was thrown out, “Had we
+not better go another time?” We thought not. Then they divulged the
+name of him they sought, and the Patriarch revealed himself, quoting
+the _Duke’s Motto_, “I am here.” General rejoicing, fraternity, and a
+_skaal_ for good sport succeeded, and the next morning we all started
+off together by steamer for our happy hunting-grounds.
+
+On July 31st we made our head habitable quarters on the high plateau of
+the Lesje Vand, and had time to enjoy the detailed study of the upper
+flora and berry varieties, which are numerous in this country. Thus:—
+
+  _Tyttebær_              Red, juicy berry.
+  _Blaabær_               Blueberries.
+  _Multebær_              Juicy, hard berry of raspberry form.
+  _Kirsebær_              Cherry.
+  _Bringebær_             Raspberry.
+  _Björnebær_             Bearberry.
+  _Winborr, Ripsbær_      Currants.
+  _Stikkelbær_            Gooseberry.
+  _Silbær_                Black currant.
+  _Jordbær_               Strawberry.
+
+[Illustration: _Snow Plough._]
+
+The ponies were packed with their curious birch-twig saddles,
+waterproof sheets for cork bed, deer-skins and air cushions,
+provisions, a small spade to trench round the tents, cooking canteen—a
+great work most cunningly carried out by the Tentmaster—lint,
+chlorodyne, &c.; steel nails to screw into boots for ice-work,
+_vanters_, or mufflers, long flannel night-shirts for cold, blue
+spectacles for snow, a little glycerine, telescope, compass, &c. Our
+beds were made with Iceland moss, waterproof sheet, cork mattress,
+and skins, and we slept in thick socks, gloves, and long flannel
+night-shirts with hood to keep off the flies. Hans Luther was with
+us, and Trophas the faithful, the doggie with sharp nose and curled
+tail. The tents had been sent up to the fjeld before us, and, after
+about six hours’ walk, we spied the white dot—the tent. In making the
+ascent to the upper plateau the gradual decrease of vegetation was
+very noticeable, culminating in the reindeer flower, or _Ranunculus
+glacialis_, which is much liked by the reindeer. Happy and buoyant with
+hope the hunter who finds the flowers nibbled off! Their peculiarity
+is to grow most freely where the snow has melted back. At the tents we
+found Ole of Lesje, whose first news was that he had seen a herd of
+about fifty reindeer, after which an important subject was mooted: a
+glutton had been seen the night before near the tent. Danjel Kulingen
+had been thirteen years after reindeer, and had never seen one. On
+the other hand, Hans Luther had shot one, and there was a skin at
+the station at Mølmen, which reminded us that at fishing inns on the
+banks of the Thames larger fish are seen stuffed and glazed than the
+itinerant angler generally hooks and lands.
+
+All at once the dogs, three in number—Trophas, Barefoed, and
+Storm—opened a barking chorus; but we did not seize our rifles, as
+the telescopes revealed our Paymaster-general, who was returning from
+his _chasse de bagage_, which he had happily recovered. The aneroids
+registered 5,000 feet, and all was full of promise, save the one fact
+that the rifle of our friend was below in the valley. The despair
+and ferocity engendered by this unhappy discovery were soon dispelled
+by good food, and plenty of it, a word of comfort and sympathy, and
+last, not least, a little whiskey, after which he took a siesta in his
+tent, on which we wrote “Requiescat in pace,” and left our cards as a
+welcome. Being Sunday, we made it quite a day of rest, and revelled in
+the flora, mosses, and lichens of our new ground, always, however, with
+an eye to the glutton, which evidently had a day of rest also, as he
+never appeared. In the evening, at 6.30, we had a hunters’ chorus, for
+the Norwegian Sunday terminates at six o’clock.
+
+[Music: NORGES HERLIGHED.
+
+  Words by I. N. BRUN.
+
+  Bor jeg paa det høje Fjeld, hvor en Fin skjød en Ren med sin Rifle
+      paa Ski-en
+  hvor der sprang et Kildevæld, og hvor Ryperne pladsked i Li-en.
+      Jeg med
+  Sang vil mane frem hveren Skat som er skjult udi Klip-pernes
+      Rif-ter, jeg er gladog rig ved dem, kjøber
+  Vin og klare-rer Ud-gif-ter. Klippens Top som Gra-nen bær, muntre
+      Sjælers
+  Fri-sted er, Ver-dens Tummel ned-en-for til min sky-høje Bo-lig ej
+      naar.]
+
+Ole sang “Saga’s Hall.” Luther, with his sweet high tenor, was very
+good, and eventually a bouquet was thrown to him. The delicate
+attention seemed to be appreciated, although it was composed of straw
+and red labels from the tin cans of our preserved meats, &c. Then we
+had a bar or two of “God save the Queen,” and so into our tents. The
+next day we made a long journey, with much snow and heavy winds. In
+the afternoon we had to swim the ponies through a river—a very pretty
+sight indeed—the only drawback being clouds of mosquitoes. They were
+perfectly awful, and no avoiding them. We were even thankful to think
+we should not have them at home for a continuance, for the remark that
+we should soon get used to them afforded no comfort.
+
+At this altitude we found the ptarmigan sitting about. The shooting
+of these birds does not commence until August 15th, and they seemed
+to know that we, as Englishmen, would not shoot before that day. So
+we actually threw stones at them, and one old bird, when knocked off
+the top of a large stone, positively came back to see what it was all
+about. Soon after this we discovered _freske spör_ (new deer slots).
+The dogs livened up for a time. All soon settled, however, into steady
+travel again. Danjel was telescoping continually, but frequently a
+supposed reindeer turned out to be only a stone in the snow, till at
+last the Patriarch ventured to remark that there were “mange stor steen
+in Gamle Norge, og maget god telescope jagt,” which Danjel understood
+to suggest real deer instead of stones, and we should all have
+preferred, as it was one of the objects of our expedition, shooting
+reindeer to telescoping them. They are very wild, and quite justify the
+old saying, “Mange dyr, mange øine” (many deer, many eyes). Our course
+now lay from Buvalden due north, and we started in good time from
+Thorbvu for the snow ranges, leaving the horses and baggage below, we
+going as light as possible, with our own food for the day, and plenty
+of goat cheese. At lunch Danjel explained to the Patriarch that he
+should eat much goat cheese, for if he eat sufficient he should partake
+of the nature of that saltatory animal, and in time jump cleverly and
+boldly from rock to rock—an accomplishment in much requisition during
+our wanderings.
+
+[Illustration: _Snow Pass: Thorbvu._]
+
+An incident of piscatorial interest occurred here. We sent a hunter,
+who had never had a rod in his hand before, down to a lake, or _vand_,
+to try for some trout. In an hour he came back with about twenty,
+averaging nearly one pound each. Of course he was not casting, or
+“flick” would have been the fate of the fly; he only trailed. Still his
+success was perfect, and he was delighted with his new sport.
+
+The male reindeer are called _bucks_, the female _ko_ and _semle ko_,
+and the young _kalve_. In the daytime they roll in the snow, and if
+they sleep at all, it is certainly with one eye open. Having seen
+and telescoped many large stones, and taken them for deer, there was
+a strong inclination to inquire more closely as to the probability
+of sport, and a suppressed anxiety to hear a definite opinion as to
+our chance of a shot, if nothing more. The hunter must be patient,
+persevering, careful not to appear even as a moving speck on the
+interminable expanse of virgin snow, and take his sport quietly, for
+better or worse. Our Tentmaster had made many expeditions, had seen
+many deer, and even when his chance came an impetuous—shall we say
+friend?—rushed out in front of him, fired, and missed. So tradition
+said. We are glad to state that this did not occur during our present
+trip. His successes arrived, however, after a time, and never will he
+forget the day when he killed his first reindeer. Long may he live to
+kill more!
+
+Let us here give his first experience; so pray silence for the
+Tentmaster.
+
+
+         THE TENTMASTER’S FIRST TRIP, AND HOW HE TRIED TO GET
+                              A REINDEER.
+
+  “In the year 1863 I ascended the glorious Norwegian fjelds for the
+  first time to hunt reindeer. What a charm is conveyed in these
+  words, ‘first time!’ The first salmon or trout caught; the first
+  grouse or partridge shot; the first meet at cover and burst with
+  the hounds; the first climb up the snow peaks of Switzerland; the
+  young beauty’s first London season, or first night at the opera
+  or ball; and last, not least, first love, all have a peculiar zest
+  never afterwards equalled.”
+
+(N.B.—The Tentmaster is rather sentimental.)
+
+[Illustration: _After Sport._]
+
+“I experienced this feeling in August, 1863, when, journeying up the
+magnificent Romsdal valley, on arriving at a station I noticed a
+splendid head of reindeer horns lying outside the station-house. On
+inquiry I found that a Norwegian hunter had brought them down from the
+fjelds. I lost no time in searching him out, and soon arranged for
+an expedition together. I had no provisions, tents, spare clothing,
+or other appliances which my subsequent experience has shown to be
+requisite, but began the ascent with the meagre store of some raw
+coffee berries, _flatbrod_, cheese, and biscuits. The hunter (Dan I
+call him) could not speak English, nor I Norske; but we got on pretty
+well by pantomime. After a pleasant but toilsome three hours’ walk
+through the grand scenery peculiar to the Norwegian fjelds, Dan’s
+hound Passop (the reindeer hounds are held in a leash two or three
+yards long) suddenly squatted down in great excitement, with his nose
+steadily pointed to a huge rock about three hundred yards distant,
+and gave a peculiar low whine. Dan was down immediately, and signalled
+me to do the same. He was certain that reindeer were close at hand, but
+a full half-hour’s telescoping failed to disclose their whereabouts.
+Nothing could induce Passop to move; his sniffing nose kept steadily
+in the direction of the rock; while he occasionally gave us a most
+intelligent, imploring look, as much as to say, ‘Do something.’ Unable
+to see any trace of deer, we dare not move. Dan thought that wherever
+they were, there they would remain some time; so, with faithful Passop
+on the watch, we determined to have lunch. Not a bite, however, would
+Passop touch—not even _flatbrod_ thick with butter. There he squatted,
+with his nose still to the rock, the model of a watchful sentinel.
+Lunch finished, Dan began telescoping, and soon discovered the cause of
+Passop’s agitation. The tips of antlers were visible above the rock,
+and in distinct relief against the sky. They were perfectly motionless;
+but we were quite sure, after many exciting inspections with the
+telescope, that a large buck was resting behind the rock. As the wind
+was not very favourable Dan said we must be quite still, and remain
+till we saw a movement. In my innocence I wished to smoke a pipe, but
+Dan forbade it. The excitement was increased by Dan saying it was a
+large buck, probably an outlying sentinel, and that a herd of deer was
+not far off, which proved correct. Our patience being exhausted, Dan,
+much to the delight of Passop, ordered a forward crawling movement;
+and, with time and patience, we got within eighty yards of the rock,
+where we determined to halt and wait. The tops of the antlers were
+still motionless. Poor Passop was trembling with excitement, and his
+companions much the same. In this position another half-hour passed,
+when suddenly Dan exclaimed, ‘Look!’ Passop became very uneasy, when
+we had the pleasure of seeing a splendid _stor buck_ rise up and stand
+before us broadside, with his head turned to where we were crouching.
+Passop behaved splendidly, remaining perfectly still, while I shall
+never forget the expression of his eyes, and his occasional side glance
+at us, as much as to say, ‘Now then.’ Resting my rifle on a convenient
+rock, I took aim steadily behind the shoulder, pulled the trigger, and,
+to my horror, it missed fire. The buck heard the snap, and started off
+at a rattling pace; Passop struggled wildly to get out of the leash;
+and Dan exclaimed, ‘Gud bevar mig! Give me my riffel.’ I handed it to
+him, he recapped it, and fired at about two hundred yards’ distance
+without effect. Passop collapsed, and the translation of his thoughts
+into English was indicated by the expression of his face, ‘I have
+done my best!’ No doubt he had a clear conscience; and work being
+finished, he commenced eating _flatbrod_ and butter with great zest.
+The inevitable pipes were now brought out for consolation. Wonderful
+weed—exquisite after a success, soothing after a defeat!
+
+[Illustration: _Near Ovendal: after Reindeer._]
+
+[Illustration: _An Anxious Moment._]
+
+[Illustration: _Thorbvu: Encamping._]
+
+“We now made our way to a stone cave to pass the night, where we
+had coffee and _flatbrod_. The cave was just large enough for me to
+creep in, and I passed the night on dried moss, sleeping soundly till
+daybreak. The night being very fine, Dan took up his quarters outside
+the cave, had coffee, and slept soundly on dried moss too. After
+breakfast we started, Dan being sure we should find the herd. At one
+o’clock we discerned them, fourteen in number, taking their noonday
+siesta on the snow; but in vain we tried to get within shot. Next day
+we saw herds of deer, but without being able to get within range on
+account of the quantity of snow. On the third day I returned to the
+station, much delighted with my first reindeer-hunting experiences.
+Often as I have been on the fjelds since, the three days of 1863 have
+not been surpassed, although
+
+                         NO DEER WAS KILLED.”
+
+[Illustration: _Easing down the Patriarch._]
+
+                   •       •       •       •       •
+
+It would be well here to say a few words respecting the tents and their
+arrangement.
+
+A regular _tente abri_ carries two very well. Of course there are
+more room and comfort for a single inhabitant; still, for general
+travelling, in which luggage may only too truly be described as
+_impedimenta_, the tent referred to may be used. Every morning, if the
+weather permits, the waterproof sheet and cork bed should be laid out
+to dry, and the skins also. The trench round the tent must be well
+looked to, the lines tightened, and the ponies tethered, as it is
+rather disagreeable to be awakened about two A.M. by a storm
+of rain and wind, and to discover your pony, with his linked fore-legs
+well tangled in tent lines, doing his best to pull down the whole
+concern on the heads of the occupants. Far more delightful is it to be
+aroused on a bright, crisp, and fresh summer morning, when, if near a
+_sæter_, the cause of it may be the jodelling of a _pige_ in charge
+of the cows—Swiss as to character of song, exceedingly Norske as she
+calls to them to follow. In the country districts animals follow more
+frequently than they are driven. Kindliness is the rural, coercion the
+town influence.
+
+[Illustration: _The Grallock._]
+
+Many of our readers will notice that under the initial letter at
+the commencement of this chapter, the powder-flask and general
+arrangement are very much like the old bandoleers still hanging in the
+guard-chamber of Hampton Court Palace and others at Portsmouth. They
+were most general in Charles I.’s time, and are beautifully shown in De
+Gheyn’s costumes of Culverin-men and Harquebusiers. In this case the
+bandoleer was made of steel, and it is faithfully rendered, with the
+cord by which the whole arrangement was hung over the shoulder of the
+hunter.
+
+By this time we deserve sport. We have travelled far and worked hard
+for it. Let us see the result. We had arrived at a great height, at the
+snow-fields called Sneebreden, like the Folgefond in the Hardanger, We
+had slid, crawled, and struggled, sometimes moving one behind the other
+at an angle to reduce our surface, creeping on the crisp, dry, hard
+snow, wading rivers of snow-water (very cold tubbing indeed), sloshing
+at the edge of the snow, where the reindeer-flowers bloom, and going
+through various other incidents of snow travelling, till at last we
+arrived at a smart drop, previous to another _fond_. Here the Patriarch
+had to be eased down, and his pendent position is only suggested in
+the cut (p. 147). Soon Trophas began to draw upon some slots in the
+snow, and it was the unanimous opinion that they were “fresh.” Trophas
+pulled hard, held back by Ole, who eventually began to half trot. To
+the unsentimental mind the action was that of a blind man’s dog eyeing
+coppers in the distance; but Trophas was in earnest, and at last the
+top of a horn burst upon us, and in a second our fate was disclosed
+to us. There was nothing but the gralloch of a reindeer _kalve_ shot
+yesterday—one horn, one hoof, &c.—as shown in the sketch (p. 148).
+How could it be accounted for? Many suggestions were thrown out, many
+improbabilities considered feasible, and at last a matter-of-fact mind
+launched the frightful proposition that the glutton seen by Ole near
+our tents the night before our arrival was nothing but a native hunter,
+who had been stalking us, and had killed the _kalve_ of which the
+remains were now at our feet. Nothing daunted, we flattered ourselves
+that at all events we had now commenced in earnest, and remembered the
+saw that the worst beginning has the best ending.
+
+[Illustration: _Maritz Sæter._]
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Travellers in Norway are surprised, as they pass through the valleys,
+to see so few cows. This is easily explained. They visit this
+interesting country when these animals are away, like themselves, for a
+holiday; and as every dog has his day, so every Norwegian cow has her
+outing, and goes to the grass pastures in the upper plateau to enjoy
+life until the white mantle of snow is ready to garb the upper ranges
+and drive the cows and _piger_ down to their homesteads and winter
+quarters. As already described, these _sæters_, or _châlets_, are high
+up, and frequently afford the energetic nature-loving traveller and
+genuine hunter cover and shelter, we may almost say comfort—_cum_
+very much _grano_, though. In snow-work it becomes almost luxury to
+have one of these to fly to in very bad weather. Tent life is the
+most truly enjoyable thing—though there are times when a tent may be
+blown down and soaked through—to say nothing of the milk supply at
+hand, which is meat and drink at all times, although very filling at
+the Norwegian price. This will account for our associating a _sæter_
+so prominently with our snow-work. The one given in our woodcut (p.
+149) was inhabited by Maritz, who was there by herself from July to
+the beginning of September or end of August, according to the early or
+late fall of the snow. The 20th of August generally brings the first
+fall of snow in this latitude (63°). During our stay we always slept
+in our tents, as we all feared the parasitical ticklings the _sæter_
+would inevitably have afforded us had we given it the chance. All the
+summer through the old snow lay round the antiquated wooden building,
+and seldom indeed was it that Maritz had any one to speak to, as there
+was no road or path of any kind. Still she was all kindness. Did she
+not send a pair of cuffs to the Patriarch’s wife, and iron them, so
+to speak, after her manner, with the back of a wooden spoon, as she
+hummed a plaintive ditty in the minor key? Perhaps she thought the lady
+would hardly like to wear them, or else that they might find their way
+to some great people. Maritz, too, held to the superstitions of her
+ancestors. Thus her porridge swizzle-stick—which is like the West
+Indian swizzles, but larger—made from the five-shoot top of a young
+fir, was always prepared with a cross cut at the end or swizzling part
+of it, to keep the Evil One from turning the milk sour. This, too, she
+sent with the cuffs.
+
+A little outdoor shed, or _laave_, was our general cooking-place,
+into which four of us sometimes squeezed, and, as the dogs filled up
+the interstices, we were as closely packed as sardines, the whole
+being seasoned with the oil of good fellowship. It is wonderful how
+invigorating this life is. What a system for a sanatorium! How well
+balanced should one become with such fresh air, simple food, and
+exercise, and with all the energy and toughness requisite for this
+work! It is inconceivable how kindly, obliging, and tender towards
+others a life like this makes us. Such was the influence of our
+head-quarters. Prosiness must be avoided, however; so another day on
+the snow with the hopes of sport, and no buck fever if we get a chance.
+Bad landmark that, if perchance it befall us. We hope it will not: if
+it do we will forget it.
+
+For our line the shortest way would be across the _vand_ where the
+trout were caught, and Danjel reported the discovery of an old boat
+of that class which has no iron nails about it, but all wooden pegs,
+and yet not particularly inviting as to safety, as the baling-ladle of
+birch wood gave the idea that whoever last used it thought it would be
+wanted by the next comer. However, as the hunters were agreeable and
+we could all swim, we determined to try it. So off we started, with
+ominous gurglings and washings to and fro in the bottom of the boat,
+fast, frequent, and furious. The ladle was heartily plied, first by one
+strong arm, then by another; but still the water came. This brought to
+our remembrance the Scottish Highland custom of baling the boat with
+a good large shoe, and that if you only take a pair the power becomes
+doubled.
+
+[Illustration: _A Friend in Need._]
+
+Happily we arrived safely, and soon started for a long day’s work
+over unknown ground. The weather had cleared, and everything seemed
+to combine in our favour. There was a hearty good spirit among our
+hunters and ourselves, each fellow wishing the other good sport, and
+the dogs were keen to a degree. They longed for a revenge after the
+affair of the old gralloch, and flattered themselves that, if we were
+not unlucky, they would get fresh blood before nightfall. We were soon
+beginning to ascend steadily, and about an hour after starting, the
+Patriarch, working his way under some overhanging rocks, met with a
+surprise. An eagle, a large specimen, swept over his head and shadowed
+him. With his rifle in its case and across his back, the noble bird
+was safe, and the Patriarch delighted. Must there not be a nest? Yes,
+there was. Rough sticks and the lightest of down feathers were all that
+it was made of—rude, simple, and, one would think, uncomfortable for
+so grand a bird. Some of the down feathers were taken as a souvenir,
+and now and then brought out and floated, so light are they, in
+recollection of our having found one of the noblest of birds at home.
+
+[Illustration: _The Eagle’s Nest._]
+
+By mid-day we were out on the open snow, with hardly any rock shelter
+for stalking, should fortune favour us. The reindeer, however, were not
+“at home;” so we stopped at a suitable rock for lunch. How we enjoyed
+it! Old Trophas wagged his tail with a conviction that “no sport, no
+food,” would never be his fate as long as there was something left in
+our wallets. So we all rejoiced together, winding up with a little
+whiskey and hearty wishes for good sport.
+
+Soon after lunch the tips of some horns were just visible on the
+snow-line. A large expanse of snow lay before us, with some small rocks
+half-way. Could we reach them? No; so we waited for the chance of the
+deer working up our way. Unfortunately they moved in the opposite
+direction, and our chance was gone. Still we had seen some, and that
+inspired fresh hope. Later in the afternoon we again saw a herd, and
+telescoped them for a length of time. Soon after this a second herd
+became visible, and it was most interesting to watch their manœuvres,
+which we did until they joined and moved off—of course in the opposite
+direction. An immense expanse of snow was now before us, and once we
+saw four herds of reindeer, and could count about one hundred and
+forty. For a long time we had hope, and agreed that if we could only
+get one we should be satisfied; but even that was denied, for the four
+herds gradually blended and went straight off, leaving us in the most
+perfect solitude, reindeerless.
+
+[Illustration: _Reindeer Head._[5]]
+
+  [5] This head, of forty-one points, is in the collection of Sir Charles
+Mordaunt, Bart., at Walton Hall.
+
+By this time we had a long distance to travel to get back to our tents.
+Fortunately the light fades so little that it hardly signifies; still
+great care is required to judge of the best footing after leaving the
+snow, as the hunter leads, and can go any way, even to rolling down
+places like a hedgehog, and sometimes sitting down for a slide. Indeed,
+going home becomes a kind of steeple-chase over unknown ground. In such
+cases woe and grief must be the fate of the novice. At the highest
+elevation we passed an immense boulder, very much like the Logan Stone,
+and of similar dimensions, though perhaps larger. On the top of this
+was a much smaller one, but of different geological formation. This
+gave rise to considerable discussion about the glacial theory, as there
+was a non-believer present. What could have produced this remarkable
+combination but the action of glaciers passing over the surface,
+bearing huge masses of rock from distant parts, and, as the ice melted
+away, depositing them? These boulders were found at an elevation of
+5,000 feet or more. We also met with a most interesting instance of
+pink snow, very marked indeed in colour. All these varied phases of
+nature did much to repay us for our disappointment respecting the deer.
+This the difficulties of the descent also made us for the time forget,
+as Danjel Kulingen was tearing away as hard as he could possibly go,
+sometimes letting himself down, then hanging on to the undergrowth of
+heather, sliding, rolling, or jumping. We often solaced ourselves with
+the idea that if we could only get him on the flat for ten miles for a
+finish, we could give him a spin and run him in at high speed.
+
+[Illustration: _Red Deer Head._]
+
+Whilst we had been telescoping the deer our Aalesund friend was having
+sport. On our return we found that he had been over to our tent to see
+us, and had left word of “Sport, sport,” and a message to try for a
+meet. This, unfortunately, could not be arranged, or we should have
+seen joy depicted on his face when he described to us where and how he
+killed his first reindeer.
+
+The Norwegians believe that the horns of the reindeer, boiled down,
+are good for consumptive people. There is no doubt that the reindeer
+themselves eat, or rather gnaw them when they are shed, which occurs
+in November. The males shed their horns first, the females retaining
+them longer. We found several horns partially gnawed through, and, when
+we consider the number of deer, there must be some reason why the shed
+horns are not more frequently picked up. The same idea of horn soup
+for consumptive cases occurs in Scotland, where the horns of red deer
+are also found gnawed. One would imagine that the best time for this
+_potage_ would be when the horn was first formed, and the “velvet” is
+on, or when the horn is being renewed; and during this period it is
+very warm indeed, as large arteries run inside the velvet, or horn
+skin, and are engaged in depositing bone on the old stems, until the
+horns are complete and the velvet fretted off in September.
+
+The reindeer, like ptarmigan, become white during the winter, and in
+their wild state present a great contrast to the sheeplike tameness of
+those possessed by Laplanders. The Laps have a regular call for their
+tame deer, which generally come at once; but if not, the proprietor has
+generally his lasso with him, which is thrown over the animal’s loins,
+and he is at once a prisoner. The good travelling pace of reindeer is
+well known, being about ten miles an hour, with two hundred pounds
+weight at their back. In their wild state their pace was beyond
+computation when we were behind them. We could well say that we had
+been “after reindeer,” and that is all. The only way to have sport in
+such a country as Norway is patiently to settle down to it, without
+fixing a time for returning. A river is not always right, nor the water
+in condition. So is it with the reindeer hunter: a thousand things
+may occur to mar his success. The very wind is sometimes wrong, and
+may chop round at the moment when he hopes it will hold on steadily
+for an hour or two; while, on the other hand, it may change at some
+fortunate moment exactly in his favour. No; there is no royal road to
+such sports as these. The charm of uncertainty must at all times attach
+to real sport. It must be worked for, and directly the uncertainty
+is removed its real charm is gone, and the relish for it dissipated.
+The mere act of shooting and killing lasts but a second of time; it
+is the surroundings which afford the real pleasure—the fresh air,
+the change of scene, the care required in every detail, the sportsman
+never knowing but that the very next moment some interesting incident
+may transpire which would make the day, hour, and spot a landmark; the
+necessity for watching every breath of air, the most delicate zephyr
+being registered and measured by the painstaking hunter, as he brings
+out tenderly some carefully preserved pieces of the finest floss silk,
+or, better far, some of the eagle’s down feathers already alluded to.
+Again, the dogs require constant attention; and, to be quite complete,
+a coronet of eagles’ eyes—optical all-rounders—would be an assistance.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+Fishing for salmon, and the love which Englishmen have for that
+grandest of all sports, have led to the opening up of Norway to the
+general traveller. Our first pioneers, finding how importunate were
+the inquiries of the new-comers respecting the best spots and methods
+for sport, and that the inclination of some led them to try and bid
+above others for the waters they had really well earned by their own
+energy and perception—all this, we say, tended to make men on board
+the good ship _Tasso_ rather _taciturn_. (Excuse the approach to an
+unintentional pun.) This, however, is not surprising, for men are
+compelled to be reticent when they know the inevitable consequences of
+giving details of their sport. Nothing will secure success but earnest
+work, patience, and biding your time for the happy combination which
+the best rivers can only afford now and then. Why, as we have just
+observed, the whole charm of sport would be dispelled if it became a
+dead certainty, and a man knew he would kill so many pounds of fish one
+day, and none the next. No; like the glorious uncertainty of cricket
+and hunting, the uncertainty of fishing is one of its charms; the
+average of good and bad is equalised, and the old French proverb comes
+in, that “Patience et longueur de temps font plus que la rage.” The
+noble salmon has become liable to increased and more subtle dangers
+within the last few years, besides his old natural enemies. The
+peasants have new means of torture. His natural foes are the bull-trout
+and sea-trout, which are the vermin of every river, destroying the
+spawn wholesale, and even lying in wait for the moment when the female
+deposits her milt, an instance of which came under our observation.
+The nets at the mouth of the river are an old institution, but they
+should be well constructed and supervised; also the _tine_, or stage,
+described in a former chapter, where the _bonde_ is anything but the
+“sweet little cherub that sits up aloft;” still it is an old custom,
+and we like old customs. So also is the “worm box” which hangs from the
+peasant’s belt as he goes for some trout, or anything else that may be
+tempted. The worm box is a very primitive construction, its simplicity
+being well carried out in the birch twig by which it is suspended,
+and the two pieces of leather through which the lid slides. It is a
+picturesque relic of old days.
+
+[Illustration: _Worm Box._]
+
+We now approach the recent diabolical invention of the “otter,” which,
+sad to relate, must have been introduced thoughtlessly by some one
+who little knew what damage he was doing when, for his own selfish
+gratification, he fell back upon so unlawful and unsportsmanlike
+an expedient. Even to obtain food such poaching is unjustifiable.
+Certainly enough could have been taken for that purpose by fair means.
+It is of no use, however, dilating upon this; the deed is done, and
+otters cannot be withdrawn now. If the arm of the law were stretched
+forth, “les pommes volées” would become more than ever “les plus
+douces.” Then, again, the kindly feeling engendered by good sport and
+a certain sense of gratitude frequently leads, at the end of a visit,
+to a gift of flies, perhaps even of a rod. In illustration of this let
+us repeat the case of the proprietor of a river who gave to Nils, his
+_elve-wakker_, a salmon rod and flies. Early in the season Nils began
+to avail himself of the new fishing-gear, and soon wrote home to his
+benefactor to say that the salmon were coming up the river, but that
+he had broken both tops of the rod, and lost most of the flies; would
+the gentleman kindly send out some more flies and tops to get the
+river ready for him? We do not think this was done; it could hardly be
+expected that any man would like all the salmon he killed to be landed
+with more than one fly, perhaps one in his mouth, one in each fin, and
+finally one in his tail. What an awful apparition for even the merest
+tyro! Such liberality is simply mistaken kindness. This brings to mind
+other stories concerning salmon-fishing.
+
+It is often remarked that “truth is stranger than fiction.” When an
+M.P. fishing in Scotland played and held his fish all night, and on
+the following morning lost him, and a friend of his afterwards killed
+a salmon with one of the M.P.’s favourite flies in his tail, that was
+certainly an event, but hardly to be compared with what we are about to
+relate. In the large rivers of Norway a fishing may extend four miles,
+and the fishing next to that only three, so that different waters are
+let to different persons. In the present instance our foreign Izaak
+Walton was fishing the very top water, and, as good luck would have it,
+hooked a _stor lax_, perchance a forty-pounder. He played him firmly
+and steadily, but the fish after a time got the gentleman at the reel
+end of the rod through the next water and the next. Hours rolled on,
+yet still down they went, and by the next morning arrived at a shallow
+part of the river. A Norwegian peasant came up, and, despite the
+national dislike to going into the water, plunged into the river, and
+walked out with the _stor lax_ in his arms—DEAD, and reported
+that he must have been dead for the _last five hours_. Nevertheless he
+got him, and a fine fish he was, with one fly in the right place.
+
+[Illustration: _Fresh Fish al Fresco._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Stige-steen, or Ladder Rock._]
+
+The Norwegians have a great admiration and respect for a good
+fisherman. One morning, speaking of the average sport of the river,
+and referring to that of last year, we inquired if —— were a good
+fisherman. Knut answered emphatically, “No; he is a poor man, a very
+poor man.” We naturally replied, “But in England he is a very rich
+man.” “Ah!” said Knut with strong emphasis, “when he was here he was no
+richer than we, but the flies bite him much more.” What contentment!
+no envying, although a latent satisfaction creeps out, which decidedly
+evinces an undercurrent of thought.
+
+Trout-fishing has the great charm of taking Piscator into the most
+lovely and retired spots. The salmon, as a larger fish, takes us to
+a grander scale of nature. The water of the cheerful little trout
+stream is changed for the rushing river, and the comparatively low
+bank sometimes gives place to a position like that in the annexed
+illustration, which was taken from above a grand pool, the Stige-steen,
+or Ladder Rock, connecting it with the side of the river.
+
+Having said somewhat of fishing, let us now turn to the “aldermanic
+view” of the salmon, and hark back to a happy day when a lady had
+killed a nice fish, about fourteen pounds and a half, which was to be
+cooked on the spot: it is well to observe the process and make a note
+thereof. Cut the salmon in slices, and boil them for ten minutes; then
+let the water in which they were cooked boil on, with the head added;
+put in a little fresh butter, pepper, and salt, and serve as gravy
+or sauce. With a Norwegian appetite it is perfect, and very simple.
+N.B.—Fish killed at noon, served at two P.M. This is fresh
+fish, and contrasts most favourably with the frozen salmon which
+travels ice-bound to the metropolis of Great Britain.
+
+Evening is the best time for fishing, and the long twilight, which
+helps the enthusiast for trout and salmon fishing at eleven or twelve,
+can only be realised by those who know the glories of the North. It
+seems a curious thing to take, when travelling, a green blind in order
+to exclude the light when wishing to go to sleep; still it is necessary
+at first, although Nature is so elastic that she readily adapts herself
+to circumstances, when the green blind can be given to some new-comer,
+or lent as a passing boon.
+
+[Illustration: _Casting._]
+
+One word in reference to the illustration, “A Good Beginning.” It was
+our last morning: wind, rain, mist low down—in fact, blowing hard.
+No. 3 was up at five A.M., and found the Tentmaster-general
+had passed a restless night, every coverlet and blanket being
+knotted, twisted, and twined into the most perfect disorder. This
+was attributed to the fact that it was his last night that season in
+Norway, and his usually placid sleep had been disturbed with Norske
+nightmare. He must have been dreaming of trolds and _nökken_, and
+fancied that he was gaffing ogres or _bjergtrolds_ instead of fine
+clean fish. The weather was the last straw which broke the camel’s
+back—he would not go. “You go,” was his rejoinder. So the Patriarch
+went; and this was the result to greet his companions when they came
+down to breakfast.
+
+[Illustration: _A Good Beginning._]
+
+
+There is a great charm about the freedom of driving one’s own pony
+and carriole, or _stolkjær_, for a long run, or even for a short
+excursion; it conduces to the peaceful rest we are all longing for,
+and saves one from reminders that at the next station the horses will
+be charged for if we do not hurry on. This is rather tantalising when
+one is drinking in nature, and realising the fact that each moment is
+revealing fresh beauties and developing lifelong impressions—the very
+time when one wants to be left to nature and himself. In the excursion
+now before us we had our own ponies part of the way, and pedestrianism
+for cross country. Our route was from Romsdal, the weird valley where,
+on the previous evening, the trolds had been playing pranks in the
+following manner:—About 8.30 a tremendously heavy roll as of thunder,
+lasting forty seconds, brought us suddenly to the window. The mist was
+hanging round the peaks, with cirri-strati across them; down came the
+_steen-skreed_, or slip, with a mighty rush; and the cloud was driven
+out by the shower of rocks and stone as they came madly down. It was
+unusually grand. The sheep boy with his horn ran in, Anna rushed to the
+door to see it, and as she came the dust rose up in a cloud as incense
+after Nature’s work. Ole remarked that it was a fine shower, and very
+impressive it certainly was; still Anna said she did not like it. In
+some cases in the winter-time the peasants go on to the ice to avoid
+the possibility of these erratic masses reaching them.
+
+We were soon off to Gudbransdalen, calling as usual at Fladmark—that
+lovely spot, beautiful to a degree if you have provisions. Should such
+be the case, you certainly must have brought them, for the station
+is not one of refreshment, as Mrs. Brassey testified by her anxiety
+to regain her yacht, the _Sunbeam_, which is truly a sunbeam to her
+friends. Long may it be so to her and her husband and son!
+
+We must leave the hurly-burly of rocks through which the Rauma
+dashes in this part. Rocks the size of detached villas seem to have
+been “chucked” about, for this is the only term we can bestow upon
+such higgledy-piggledy positions. One can only realise the idea by
+imagining one’s self a minute insect in a basin of lump sugar, with a
+great rushing river beneath.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Arriving at Mølmen, we found it a most healthy spot, and worth staying
+at for a time, as the people are so kind, and the whole surroundings
+inviting. Being on a high plateau, the air is perfect, and the place
+seems to be more than usually fortunate in its weather. The following
+morning, there being no service at kirk, we availed ourselves of the
+perfect weather for enjoyment on the hillside. Striking off from the
+houses, we sauntered up through the stunted birch and the heather till
+the grey rocks became more prominent, the vegetation sparse, the plants
+closer to the ground, and then we lay down on the fjeld side. What a
+view there was beneath us! The whole scene was a rare combination of
+all the prismatic colours so characteristic of Scotland in October.
+At our feet was the long Lesje Vand, beyond that the Dovre fjeld,
+and we fancied we could see Sneehatten; then, away to the right,
+were snow ranges to Storhættan, which is ascended from Ormem. How we
+basked in the sunlight and longed for more life on the fjeld! “Why
+should we not go to Eikesdal?” said Ole all at once. “That would be
+fine: why not?” The idea was caught at. “How long would it take to
+walk, Ole?” “Well, eighteen hours if there is no mist.” “Very well,
+then; no mist, if you please, and we will do it.” This was a new joy:
+eighteen hours’ walk without a house to call at, carrying one’s own
+nosebag, and great doubts as to a bed on arriving—more delightful
+still! This is enjoyment indeed, though not to every one, perhaps. We
+therefore decided to start the next morning at three A.M., provided
+there was neither mist on the mountains nor the chance of it. How we
+revelled on the journey in anticipation, enhanced as our happiness was
+by the beauty of the scene and the grandeur of the surroundings! All
+the way down we conversed on our coming walk, interrupted only by a
+visit to a farm, where we heard some of the good folk singing. It was
+hay-time; the weather fine, with a refreshing breeze that gently waved
+the new-cut grass as it hung from the frames, like huge towel-horses,
+which are used for drying it. We were invited to enter the farmhouse,
+where we found the room tidied up for Sunday, and the family singing
+a hymn in their customary devotional manner. There was the usual
+three-cornered cupboard; an old gun which had laid low many a good
+buck, the powder-flask, primer, and ball-bag were ready for August;
+the ivy was carefully trained up the windows inside; and the ale-bowls
+and tankards were about the room. It was quite a Norwegian homestead.
+One thing was unusual—a musical instrument called a _psalmodicum_,
+which is a board painted green with red flowers, about an inch thick
+and thirty inches long, with three strings raised on a bridge like a
+violin. These strings are played with a bow, also of the violin class,
+but different in character. We regretted very much that we could not
+persuade any one to perform upon it.
+
+[Illustration: _Wool Holder._]
+
+On our return we found the proposed trip emanated from the fact that
+a house-painter was going over to Eikesdal, and had been waiting for
+clear weather to carry out his object. By the next morning a farmer
+from Eikesdal proposed joining us: he knew the way. This completed
+our party, and at four o’clock we started, with every assurance of
+fine weather. Working up through the stunted birch-trees, we soon
+looked over the heights of the Vermer Fos to Storhættan. The Svart-hø
+rose behind us, and approaching the snow-line, we came upon the
+reindeer-flower (_Ranunculus glacialis_), with its sharp-pointed leaves
+and beautiful white blossom. Then the dreary Gravendal opened to us,
+wild, bleak, weird, and barren to a degree, with Amra Jura on our
+right, directly over Eikesdal, far, far away. About this time there was
+a grand solar rainbow. We now got very rough rock-tramping—regular
+_couloir_ climbing—and there was no vegetation, the moss being of the
+“crottle” tribe, a perfectly black lichen. As we ascended the peaks
+were grander. Many reindeer _spör_ were seen, but no reindeer. At the
+highest part we found the snow discoloured by a very fine dark gritty
+dust; and it is a remarkable fact that this discoloration was the
+result of volcanic eruption in Iceland. After the eruption a gale set
+in from the W.S.W., which on Easter Monday, 1875, positively carried
+the clouds of scoriæ right across Norway. The line was followed even to
+Sweden, and corroborated by some peasants who were out when it fell.
+
+A volcanic eruption in Iceland is a serious matter. One of the worst
+occurred in 1783. On that occasion 14,000 persons were killed. In the
+eruption of 1875, the vegetation, which provided for 40,000 sheep,
+2,000 cattle, and 3,000 horses, was all destroyed. The hay harvest, the
+only one in Iceland, was also entirely destroyed. Scoriæ, varying from
+fine pumice to pieces the size of two fists, covered its surface from
+an inch and a half to eight inches deep. The eruption began about nine
+A.M., and when the scoriæ fell there was total darkness. The
+air was so highly charged with electricity that staff-spikes held up in
+the hand seemed to be in a blaze.
+
+We soon began to descend a little to a vast plateau. Our provisions had
+been fallen back upon every few hours, and were now much reduced. The
+farmer looked forward to the plateau as being likely to afford some
+_multebær_, a kind of raspberry with a hard skin, but juicy. A good and
+most useful man was the farmer. Favoured by the weather, he steered
+well, and we soon came to an incline on the snow, where we could make
+a long and safe _glissade_. It was certainly a novelty to see us all
+flying down. The farmer was the best man, and happily we reached the
+bottom in safety. Another hour and we lay down to rest and enjoy our
+_multebær_. They were deliciously refreshing. The house-painter, or
+_maler_, suggested that there was a _sæter_ somewhere at the head of
+Eikesdal which we might try for. “That is just what we are making
+for,” said our cheery chief, the farmer; “in about an hour we shall be
+there.” On we went, our fatigue being forgotten in the grandeur of the
+scenery and the difficulty of picking one’s way, for hopping from stone
+to stone absorbs the attention considerably. The time soon passed,
+and after we had completed our twelve hours’ walk we had arrived at
+some weather-worn, storm-riven, dwarfed, gnarled, and twisted birches,
+beyond which, in a _botten_, lay our _sæter_. What an invasion! The
+two girls were astonished, but when they heard the voice of the farmer
+all was well. Ole immediately ordered a _bunker_, as it is called
+in Romsdal; in Gudbransdalen it is termed _rummer coller_. How we
+enjoyed our rest after this simple food! A _bunker_, however, should
+be described: it is a flat wooden tub of curds and whey, and is handed
+to two people. Each person is armed with a spoon, with which it is
+etiquette to draw a line across the centre for your _vis-à-vis_ to eat
+up to, not beyond; but few Englishmen ever reach the line unless they
+are very old hands.
+
+[Illustration: _Reeb Holder._]
+
+We were now at the head of the Eikesdal gorge, or valley; a roaring
+torrent rushed down the centre to Utigaard; on the left were
+steep precipices with a large fall; while the opposite side was
+perpendicular, and threatened showers of troll stones. As we descended
+we saw many huge masses of rocks which had ploughed their way down,
+carrying all before them. To see one of these _lapsus naturæ_ is a very
+impressive sight, and makes one hold his breath and think. Passing
+through the valley, we noticed some very curious snow shoes, in form
+like the square frames on which sea-lines are wound, but with broader
+cross-pieces. Birch twigs on each side and over the foot fix them. On
+we trudged, having bidden farewell to the farmer, thanked him for his
+good services, and had a _skaal_ for Gamle Norge. Finally, we left the
+house-painter at his destination, where the old lady told us all about
+the dust coming down upon her; and then Ole and myself were alone to
+finish the day. We had started at four A.M., and it was now
+ten P.M. We at length saw the spire of a church—the kirk at
+Utigaard—and we began to inquire for Torstin Utigaard of Utigaard, the
+hunter. At last we found his house, but he was on the fjeld. Could we
+get a bed anywhere? No, nothing. Ole persevered, and we presently found
+comfort. Torstin was expected down from the fjeld that night with an
+English gentleman, whose servant most kindly gave me his bed. After
+awhile down they came. Enter Torstin, a grand-looking fellow, drenched.
+They had killed a _semle ku_, and had left two men behind to bring it
+down next day. In the morning they arrived with it, forming the wildest
+reunion of hunters. The Finmark dog, quite black, looked a beauty as
+he lay by the dead reindeer. “Blenk”—for such was his name—was a
+good and trusty servant: neither biped nor quadruped would venture to
+interfere with him when he was on duty. It was a splendid group, worthy
+of the pencil of a Landseer.
+
+After the pouring rain of the previous evening, which had continued
+through the night, we all had hopes of fine weather for our trip,
+and still more did we desire to see, before leaving, Utigaard in the
+beauty of sunshine. But no; on arising at about five, we found dirtier
+weather than ever; the mist low down; Blenk still keeping watch by the
+reindeer which had been brought down; every kind of waterproof oilskin
+being looked out; and a great demand for sou’-westers. At last the
+_stolkjær_ was packed, and everything ready to go down to the boats.
+The baggage on the _stolkjær_ was surmounted by a reindeer head, Blenk
+ever in attendance, and Torstin Utigaard of Utigaard leading the pony
+as our chief. Then we were off, looking something between fishermen and
+smugglers.
+
+It was with much regret we took our last look at Utigaard as we settled
+down in the boats _en route_ for Syltebø. The valley was grand in
+the extreme, the mist sometimes breaking up over the sky-line with a
+sudden rush, as if thankful to get loose and range over the fjeld with
+freedom. Hardly were we under way, and the crew settled down to the
+steady-going pace which Norwegians can keep up for any length of time,
+when Utigaard burst out wondering who could have been the figures he
+telescoped on the snow on the previous day—the fellows who had nearly
+spoilt their sport and frightened their deer at the very moment when
+they thought they had the “rein” well in hand. What could people be
+doing up there? why should they go? who had ever seen any one in that
+part of the fjeld? At last the thought flashed across his mind that it
+might have been us. Was it? Yes, most undoubtedly it was, but happily
+we had unintentionally turned the deer; it was, however, the right
+way, so no harm had been done. The deer had been bagged, and we now all
+rejoiced together.
+
+[Illustration: _Eikesdal._]
+
+As the three boats rowed steadily in solemn procession down the _vand_
+we approached the Vika Pass on the starboard side. At this point the
+lake is most imposing, its grandeur much enhanced by the mist, which
+is ever changing, ever beautiful in form and intensity. Soon some of
+the favourite old Norwegian songs were started, the chorus being echoed
+by the other boats. On the opposite side of the Vika Pass there had
+been a great _steen-skreed_; and so immense are the surroundings that
+it was impossible to realise the extent of the devastation until
+we approached the base of it, as it had dashed and lumbered into the
+lake; then the huge masses revealed themselves in their unmistakable
+proportions, dwarfing our boats to mere insignificant specks by their
+side.
+
+[Illustration: _Volda._]
+
+Near this spot bears have been seen, and one was tracked only lately.
+This led to the subject of bear-traps and “self-shooters,” when the
+Tentmaster-general enlarged on the _modus operandi_ adopted by the
+postmaster at Sundal. He knew there were bears, and having fully
+studied the spot, determined to lay a “self-shooter,” if possible, or
+at all events a trap; and this he very ingeniously so arranged that
+when the trap caught Master Bruin a red flag should go up: this he
+could see with a telescope from the post-office as he sat sorting the
+letters. Some people had noticed that the latter operation took much
+longer than usual about this time; still no one attributed the delay to
+the postmaster’s love of bear-hunting, and they little thought that he
+sorted with one eye and watched for Bruin with the other. At last one
+day the postmaster saw the red flag. This was too much; the letter eye
+immediately joined the fun. He was off at once to the bear, shot him,
+and brought him home; and during the year he managed to get four.
+
+Hard as it rained, we were very sorry when our boat trip drew to a
+close, and we felt that we should soon have to bid farewell to Torstin
+and Eikesdal Lake, with its many joys, rough life, and hearty welcomes.
+We had a glorious walk from the lake to Syltebø, and were glad when
+we saw in the distance the white house which was to be our haven of
+rest, and to welcome us as friends. Soon after our arrival our host
+came in from the river with a good fish; and many a one has been taken
+from that stream, in spite of the change which has come over Norwegian
+rivers within the last few years. When English sportsmen began fishing
+in Norway the _bönder_ attached no value to salmon. They were surprised
+to see them caught with such slight rods and tackle; but, as soon as it
+dawned upon them that salmon were worth so much per pound, they began
+to help themselves by netting them at the mouth of the river, before
+they could ascend the stream which the enthusiastic Piscator had paid
+a good sum to rent. The natural consequence is that Norwegian rivers do
+not afford the sport they once did.
+
+Whilst shooting at Syltebø, one of my friends found a beautiful
+specimen of amethystic crystal of considerable size. From here a
+steamer runs to Molde, one of the northern sea-coast centres, and true
+to its time the little screw came off the landing-place with hardly
+any one on board, for the season was far advanced: most tourists and
+sportsmen had returned, and we enjoyed it all the more, as it afforded
+us a better opportunity of seeing the people themselves.
+
+The variety in Norwegian travel adds greatly to one’s enjoyment. In
+the present trip we started from a rich expansive valley; thence
+we ascended through woods of birch and alder by a torrent’s side,
+vegetation became stunted and sparse, mosses gradually disappeared,
+and lichens preponderated; then came barren boulders, and, above all,
+the everlasting snow. Having attained this, our journey was varied
+by a descent to the wild gorge of Utigaard; the Lake of Eikesdal, a
+vast body of water, with its grand fall; then again, after the boating
+procession, through the valley of Syltebø, by the side of its salmon
+river, to the sea; and finally we were on the deck of the bustling
+little screw steamer. On stopping at the first place we were surprised
+to see a large boat coming off, mushroomed with huge umbrellas, whence
+issued the music of Norwegian voices, and evidently those of ladies;
+but as they neared the steamer the soft strains ceased, and they
+came alongside in silence. Our array of oilskins, waterproofs, and
+sou’-westers announced that foreigners were on board. We, however,
+considered that this treasure trove should not be a dead letter on
+a rainy day, and the Patriarch broached the subject of Norwegian
+music, which happily led to an encore of all the boat songs and
+many others, reinforced with much gusto by the chorus of oilskins,
+waterproofs, and sou’-westers. They were a happy band—all ladies and
+no gentlemen—going to a party at the _præstegaard_, some few miles
+down the fjord. They assured us the priest would be very pleased to
+see us, and give us a hearty welcome. It was with much regret we were
+compelled to decline the invitation, especially as it would have
+afforded a pleasing episode in our trip, and given us an opportunity
+of seeing the _vie intime_ of a Norwegian minister’s home _en fête_.
+As their boat left the steamer, they sang one of our favourite songs,
+and our modest chorus followed it at a gradually increasing distance
+until both faded away. After this cheerful but soaking morning we
+comforted ourselves with stories of the fjeld, salmon, and Norwegian
+life. Happily the Tentmaster-general was in great force, and, when
+called upon for a yarn, responded with “muckle hilarity,” giving us one
+of his reindeer experiences. Can we do better than repeat it here?
+
+[Illustration: _Syltebø: with Farm Implements._]
+
+First scene, _tente abri_ on the fjeld. Snow close above; in fact,
+too much snow for sport. The Tentmaster-general telescoping alone in
+the camp, if one may so call two tents. Having had a very hard and
+weary stalk on the previous day, he was resting whilst the Major and
+Dan went up after deer. Soon after they had settled down to work, the
+Finmark dog “Passop” became very uneasy, and so fretted the string by
+which he was led that Dan thought he might break away, which would be
+sudden destruction to everything; he therefore carried the dog in his
+arms. Shortly afterwards, Dan, doubtlessly becoming slightly tired of
+carrying the dog, relaxed his hold a little. At that moment Passop
+caught sight of a buck, sprang from Dan’s arms, and bolted after the
+deer. Dan threw up his arms in despair, and gave vent to several
+Norwegian hunting quotations unfavourable to Passop’s future happiness.
+One thing was certain—the dog would go till he died from sheer
+exhaustion, and Dan would never recover his favourite Finmarker. Dan
+soliloquised, and watched long with his telescope, and finally gave way
+to grief. The next few hours were very blank and sad—deer and Passop
+both gone. In the afternoon, with melancholy thoughts and sluggish
+conversation, they began retracing their steps to the camp, which
+was about six miles distant. As soon as they were in sight of their
+fjeld home the Tentmaster-general came cheerfully to meet them, for he
+had seen seven deer steadily going down to a lake, and had anxiously
+awaited the return of Passop. No time, however, was to be lost. Off he
+went in pursuit alone, with the Major’s rifle. Hardly had he got away
+from the camp when he caught a glimpse of more deer—two this time,
+both going to the edge. He lay down to watch them, for patience as well
+as judgment is required in reindeer work. After some time a strange
+sound, like the bark of a dog, came down; but who ever heard the bark
+of a dog in the wilds of the fjeld and on the snow? Listening again, in
+a few minutes, from behind a huge boulder, came a _stor buck_ straight
+on, with a dog close behind. What a chance! Happily the Tentmaster was
+equal to the occasion. In the twinkling of an eye the shot was fired,
+the buck was hit, but carried his bullet with him, and made for the
+water. The dog gaining on him a little, he dashed into the water to
+swim for it; but Passop dashed in too, for by this time our hunter had
+recovered from his astonishment at the strange dog, and recognised it
+as Passop. The ice-water of these lakes is, of course, intensely, cold,
+and the dog was obliged to come back: he, however, did not do so until
+he had had a good tug at the deer, which by this time had turned on his
+side and was dead. A second time Passop tried to reach him, and was
+obliged to return; but the third time he got on his back, and sitting
+there, held the horns in his teeth. As the dog could not bring him
+ashore, what was to be done? By this time the Major had come up, and
+determined to swim for him, and tow him on shore. The ice-water was too
+cold for him also, and he was obliged to turn back. The deer was too
+far out to lasso, even could they lead the line up from the camp. But
+_nil desperandum_. Hardly had their wondering got full swing when a
+tremendous squall swept down the hillside, caught the deer and Passop,
+and they drifted in. The Major made another attempt, and the deer was
+landed. They were soon off to the camp, where Dan, with a very sad
+heart, was preparing _speise_. When the latter looked up and saw them
+coming, accompanied by his beloved dog, his expression soon changed,
+and Passop was caught up into his arms as quickly as he had sprung
+from them in the morning, while Dan, with a radiant face and his head
+a little on one side, turning round to the Tentmaster-general, said,
+“Good man, Maget good man.” Passop was made much of, Dan’s happiness
+restored, and the one bottle of champagne was iced in the snow, to
+drink to “Rensdyr jagt paa hoie fjeld.” It was a great day happily
+terminated, and long to be remembered.
+
+
+For some days we had been on the tramp, and arrived at Indfjord.
+Thursday, August 20th, 1875, was a sad day there. Returned from a
+long tour through very wild, rough districts, where neither food nor
+lodgings were to be had, we were settling down for a good night’s rest,
+certainly under difficulties, at the house of a good farmer named Ole
+Erikson Boe, when the gruesome news came of a disaster in the mountains
+above. A tremendous rock crash, or _steen-skreed_, had taken place at
+a spot called Sylbotten, some three thousand feet above, where there
+were two _sæters_ occupied by two _piger_, who had charge of the cows
+belonging to the good people down the valley. We started off at once.
+In a more than quiet spot like this, with what a crash does such news
+burst upon every one! What sympathy it brings out; what interest in the
+details of the occurrence! What sadness marks each face, and how quiet
+and subdued all are, though all are talking!
+
+We pass on, with a little provision in our wallets, and soon come to
+some reapers in the valley, working in the fields, with leather aprons
+for their protection. We started with Halve Jacobsen, the owner of
+the _sæter_, who went up, taking a pony and foal, in case the mare’s
+services were required: the foal always runs by the mother. On our sad
+mission we could not be otherwise than struck with the joyfulness of
+this young animal, its abounding spirits, caprioles, and quirks and
+capers. Before arriving at the steep part of the ascent we stopped at
+a small outbuilding close to the farm, the front of the house looking
+over the Indfjord, with a grand expanse before one, the morning light
+shimmering down to the edge of the water far, far below, and all
+seeming peace and gladness. At the back of the house, between that and
+the _laave_, we found a vastly different scene—pain, grief, and heavy
+hearts. What a contrast to the brightness on the fjord side—the sunny
+side that was! The anxious group was in shadow, comparatively speaking,
+the centre attraction being a roughly made stretcher, on which was
+lying, hardly conscious, pale, agonized, and bone-broken, Ingeborg,
+Erichsdatter, Griseth. Poor girl! she had been brought down some three
+thousand feet by a very steep _sæter_ path—for there was hardly any
+road—jogged and shaken, with one leg broken, ribs crushed, and her
+face much cut and bruised by the cracking up of the _sæter_ before the
+overwhelming force which carried it away. Around her were the _bönder_
+folk, and one poor old woman whose grief seemed beyond consolation.
+The autumn was advanced, and the winter coming quickly on, for the
+first snow days had begun. She had only one cow to support her: that
+was at Sjolbotten, and was killed, so her only hope of livelihood was
+for the moment swept from her, as no cow could be got under £5, and
+“no siller had she.” What a chance for some rich Samaritan to heal a
+broken heart for the small sum of £5! But as “many a mickle makes a
+muckle,” so, doubtless, would a new cow be bought by the kindly spirits
+of the good Indfjord folk. Their love for each other is a lesson to
+even the most civilised among us. Indeed, it is very noticeable that
+small communities care for everybody, while large masses notice no
+individual—only charitable institutions.
+
+[Illustration: _Looking across Indfjord._]
+
+But we have not yet commenced the ascent. The mare leads through the
+brushwood, the cheerful foal diverging now and then in the self-conceit
+of all young things, fancying they know better than their mothers. It
+was a steep climb. The mare slipped; but Halve said it was all right,
+she knew the way. The morning was warm, and, as soon as we arrived
+at a kind of ledge looking over the valley and fjord, we halted.
+What a lovely, or rather, what a grand scene it was! Still there was
+no forgetting our mission—no shaking off its sadness. Our present
+object, after Ingeborg’s arrival, was to go up and see after her
+companion, Ingrana. Our halt was not for long. We had already taken off
+our coats, and hung them on a pine-stump. To our surprise, Halve left
+his there until our return, and said, when we did not, “You can leave
+anything as you like in Gamle Norge.”
+
+[Illustration: _The Halt at Griseth._]
+
+_En route_, in three hours we had left our last brier and alder behind,
+and were on the plateau of the High Fjeld, and found much _smörgrass_,
+so good for cows. As _smör_ is the Norse for butter, it will explain
+the name. For a long time we tramped over the _botten_, carpeted with
+rich flora; but at the end we saw the _steen-skreed_, or landslip. Some
+four or five _bönder_ were already there, and seemed very surprised
+to see a foreigner coming up with Halve. A few words of explanation,
+and all was understood: one common object in view, that of helping
+each other, soon bound us together. Ingrana naturally had not been to
+sleep since the disaster. It is difficult to imagine any Norske _pige_
+nervous, but poor Ingrana had been shaken and frightened out of her
+wits. Her description, after a little entreaty and patience on the
+part of the persuader, ran thus:—Early in the morning Ingrana was
+awakened by a heavy rolling sound of thunder, followed directly by a
+crash. She rushed from her _sæter_, and, coming out of her door, saw
+Ingeborg’s _sæter_ carried away and buried. It is difficult to realise
+the feelings of this simple-minded girl, living so solitary a life for
+three months. In a moment—a second of time—one was taken and the
+other left. Ten cows also were buried; and, no help being at hand,
+Ingrana had to go down this lonely mountain with the sad news, leaving
+her companion fixed, pinned, and crushed until she could return with
+assistance.
+
+We arrived after three and a half hours’ hard ascent, when some sour
+milk that had been left was given us. The Englishman elicited a smile
+from Ingrana when, taking the bowl from his lips, his moustache was
+white with cream. This was hopeful and a good sign.
+
+The slip was accelerated by a very large waterspout striking the face
+of the mountain, as amongst the rocks which were brought down was a
+quantity of sand, and the presence and action of water were palpable,
+deep pools being left in many places. The scene was appalling—a
+wreck in the wildest sense of the word. Some three-quarters of a mile
+of mountain side had come down, carrying all before it—_rammeding_,
+as the Norse word is. Huge rocks, a few stunted trees, hardly any kind
+of herbage—what a hurly-burly of desolation! Looking across and over
+it, we saw the distant placid fjord and open sea. What a contrast, the
+peace of one and the turbulence of the other! Still the damage was a
+known quantity, every year something of the kind happening, sometimes
+with loss of life, sometimes without. The accompanying sketch was taken
+from the lower portion, looking upwards.
+
+[Illustration: _Landslip at Sylbotten; Indfjord._]
+
+After going over the greater part of this chaos we went back to the
+preserved _sæter_, where we were most kindly received, our sympathy
+being accepted in the same spirit in which it was offered. Then we
+returned. We found Halve’s coat quite safe and undisturbed, and after
+the usual time arrived at Ole Erikson Boe’s farm, where we had a simple
+repast of good _fladbrod_ and _bunker_, there being no meat here. We
+rested, and early in the morning started for Fiva. During the evening
+Boe showed me an old Danske Bible, folio size, A.D. 1590, with
+large brass clasps. The good folk wanted me to bring my wife to the
+funeral, in case the poor girl should not survive. In the morning we
+went down to the shore, as we heard the steamer for Molde was coming
+in to take Ingeborg thither, should she be still alive. Life was all
+but extinct when she was got on board. Ole Fiva and myself started in
+a boat for Veblungsnæs, having thanked the good people of Indfjord
+for their kind welcome, and they expressing their gratitude for our
+interest and sympathy, and reiterating their desire to welcome my wife
+at Indfjord.
+
+The morning was lovely for boat travel; such peace that convulsions
+like those we had witnessed seemed incredible. But it was no dream: the
+inhabitants of Indfjord, the family of Ingeborg, Ingrana, and the poor
+woman without her solitary cow, all were stern realities.
+
+Soon after our return to Fiva we heard that Ingeborg was dead, had
+been taken back from Molde, and was to be buried in the _gravested_
+at Indfjord on September 2nd, 1875. Accordingly, early that morning
+we started in carrioles from Fiva to Veblungsnæs, where myself, wife,
+daughter, and Ole Fiva took a boat with six oars for Indfjord. A
+lovely, peaceful morning it was as we left the landing-place at
+Veblungsnæs. Soon the six oars began their sturdy dip as we came under
+the shadow of the mountains: the dip was strong, as Norwegians only
+can row for a long travelling sweep and perfect time. After settling
+down with our _tine_ of provisions—for we were travelling Norskily,
+and no Norske is complete without a well-filled _tine_—a sad tone
+seemed pervading the boat: our mission was one of sympathy for the
+bereavement of others, with an after-thought of thankfulness that
+we had been spared in health, and were sound in body and bone. But
+the melancholy of every one was broken by a remark from Ole that we
+should soon see the Runic _steen_, which is about half a Norske mile
+from Veblungsnæs. A lieutenant of engineers, who was superintending
+a new bridge, had described this stone to us, and we were eager to
+see it. At last we came upon it. The boatman ran alongside, and threw
+water over it to develop it. In nine hundred years pluvial attrition
+alone is sure to make its mark, to say nothing of our energetic friend
+Neptune’s constant stormdrift and tempest. (The writer would apologize
+for the term “pluvial attrition,” but there are so many long words
+about just now, what with street advertisements and urban authors.) A
+general view of the Runic stone is given in the opposite engraving,
+while the initial ornament on page 175 was drawn from a plant plucked
+on the spot. The letters are thirteen in number, and their length about
+eighteen inches. Twelve feet from the sea-level, under low-water mark,
+and projecting some few feet, runs a ledge of rocks, beneath which is
+supposed to be secreted untold wealth.
+
+The translation of these Runic hieroglyphics is, “The Court of
+Justice,” and this inscription was evidently placed in a conspicuous
+position to guide any who came to the court in old pagan days; for
+Romsdal was one of the last of the pagan strongholds. Above, high up,
+close to Sylbotten, was a pagan temple; but the Court of Justice was
+held at Devold, Romsdal.
+
+There was now a regular good settle down for a long pull. Up to this
+time we have been in shadow, but now we round a point, and taking what
+a landsman would call the “first on the left,” we go due south down to
+Indfjord. The sea-water is beautifully clear, reflecting the quartz
+rocks. _à merveille_, like the good old chandeliers of our grandfathers
+after a spring cleaning; the rich sunlit yellow seaweed is grander
+far than ormolu; and here are three herons in repose, water-ousels with
+their snow-white breasts, and now and then sparkles by an old cormorant
+or diver. As we go down the fjord the snow range at the end of it
+blocks in everything, the morning mist waiting in the valley for exit,
+if possible.
+
+[Illustration: _Runic Stone, with Inscription, near Indfjord._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Gravested: Ingeborg’s Funeral, Indfjord._]
+
+By this time we near the hamlet, and high above us on the left, on a
+kind of plateau, we see many figures congregated. They were in front of
+Erich’s house, Griseth being the name of the farm. We soon steered in,
+and then between two boathouses, at a rude pile-driven landing-place,
+the well-known scrape of keel on shore was heard, and we had safely
+arrived at Indfjord. Griseth had sent down to meet us and invite us
+up to the house, but we return the message that we would rather not
+disturb the family, but await their arrival at the _gravested_; so,
+with our _tine_, we picked out a spot for lunch, and enjoyed some
+cold reindeer meat, biscuit, cheese, &c. During lunch we could see
+the _bönder_ folk collecting high up at Griseth, overlooking the
+fjord, and at two o’clock we saw them by the telescope start down the
+narrow mountain path, the coffin being lashed on to the little cart to
+prevent it slipping. Soon they were lost in a dip of the wood, from
+which they emerged nearer to us. As we stood at the _gravested_, or
+graveplace—like our word homestead, home-place—a man came up and
+shook hands with us, and then standing on the wall, commenced tolling
+the bell; for there is no church, but only a bell-tower.
+
+Soon the procession drew near. First came the coffin, black, lashed on
+to the hay-cart, and drawn by a beautiful young _blakken_, or Norske
+pony, whose collar was of old carved wood painted, the _bonde_ driver
+walking behind the coffin, which bore three wreaths of wild flowers. At
+a distance behind the coffin followed the men, and after an interval
+the sorrowing women, who were succeeded by men of the family, many
+sad hearts, and Ingrana. It was a modest but impressive scene. When
+the pony arrived at the _gravested_, hearing the tolling bell, he
+shied and jibbed, as if regretting what he had done. The coffin was
+therefore carried in at once. There being no clergyman, a friend sang
+a hymn. The coffin was lowered into the grave; the wreaths removed;
+the ropes withdrawn. Some one said to Ingrana, “You were lucky to
+escape.” “I could not have been ready,” she said; “God wanted me not,
+and left me a little longer. She was ready,” meaning Ingeborg, whom
+they were burying. They then sang the second hymn, “Hjemme, Hjemme,”
+as the friends shovelled the earth in, and the heavy thud of the large
+spadeful boomed like parts of Handel’s “Dead March” in _Saul_. After
+filling in the grave the wreaths were placed on the newly raised mound,
+and the ceremony closed with “Hjemme.” The weird sea birds screamed,
+and all went away together. Many will recount the story of Ingeborg,
+Erichsdatter, Griseth.
+
+Before leaving the _gravested_ the grave-boards must be noted, they
+being so remarkable in form, so quaint, and also so Bosphoric.
+Sometimes a white butterfly is introduced, as typical of the soul.
+How different from the present association with the allegory of their
+transient nothingness! After the funeral we had to pay two or three
+visits. All the farmers wanted us to visit them—some to tell of
+sport, others to offer us _aqua vitæ_ and stamped cakes like the Dutch
+_waffles_; and when we returned to Ole Erikson Boe’s he gave me an old
+Norske belt as a memento of our visit, which we need hardly say is most
+carefully treasured.
+
+So passed away Ingeborg, Erichsdatter of Griseth, while Ingrana
+remained waiting her bidding.
+
+
+Isterdal is full of interest and character, with a wild river,
+precipitous mountains on either side, snow on the high peaks above, a
+rushing of waters below, hardly any track, and shut in by a façade of
+rock at the end of the valley; and yet it is the way from Romsdal to
+Valdal. Let us, therefore, explore it, and do so in two fyttes—a short
+carriole ride to the _sæter_ with the ladies, and beyond, high, high
+up, for real research without the ladies.
+
+_Place aux dames._ We tried the short journey with two carrioles, and
+for an English mile or two we did pretty well, as they will go anywhere
+and over anything; but as we got into the scrubwood and underwood the
+road grew worse, the wheels going sometimes over a boulder one or two
+feet in height, the axle assuming an alarming angle, and the _skyd-gut_
+hanging on the high side to keep the vehicle from turning over—first
+one side and then the other—till the fair occupants of the machine
+were shaken to a jelly, and would fain try to walk. Still we all
+persevere, and soon arrive at the meal-mill, given in the accompanying
+page illustration. What a retired spot for business! Who would ever
+think of it as a centre to draw customers and found a business—as
+a likely spot for a man beginning with the conventional half-crown
+becoming the architect of his own fortune?
+
+The water seen here is the Ister—ever thick and muddy, and always in
+violent motion. What a contrast to the calm dignity of the adjacent
+mountains in all their graduated phases! A little above this is a shoot
+which brings down water to turn the mill. On our arrival the miller
+comes out with a quiet kind of welcome, and very kindly shows us the
+stones doing their share of work to bring about _fladbrod_ for the
+people of the valley during their summer visit: it is for the _sæter_
+people they work principally.
+
+Leaving the mill, we pass on to the denser scrub and brushwood. We had
+with us an old Skye terrier, full of noble traits of character—courage
+and endurance—but being as blind as Belisarius, and running against
+some of the rocks in the track, he was not only thrown on his haunches,
+but his nerve was shaken—that Highland nerve which is of such rare
+stuff. Let us immortalise our blind Norwegian canine traveller by a
+description. If lost, an advertisement should run thus:—“Lost, a
+brindled Skye terrier, answering to the name of ‘Kyle.’ Rough broken
+hair, broad chest, short-legged, bow-legged, middle-aged and strong,
+and carries his tail high. True to the core, with a head as large as a
+deerhound’s. Teeth to match.” The Norwegians at first thought it would
+be well to shoot him, but when they came to know him better he soon
+enlisted them all among his many ardent admirers.
+
+Perhaps the idea may flit across the mind of some, Why bring a blind
+Scotch terrier into a work on Norway? This is why: old Kyle was taken
+that day for a young bear by a simple-minded Norwegian cow. Never were
+fear and fright more vividly portrayed than by the action of that
+animal, and of her tail especially, on the first glimpse of the brown
+brindled terrier. Hearing his name mentioned, he has just wagged his
+tail, which is quite flat, like an otter’s, and when very pleased he
+wags it with the flat side on to the floor to produce more sound.
+
+By this time we are at the _sæter_, where the _piger_ have come to look
+after the cows until September. Having driven on to the only flat piece
+of grass, we unpack for lunch, when the produce of the aforesaid cows
+comes to our comfort in an unadulterated form, and thoroughly is the
+simple fare enjoyed. After lunch we visit the interior of the _sæter_,
+and find spinning going on steadily, a little national tune being
+hummed to the whirring wheel accompaniment. The weaving is done during
+the winter months. In the summer a little spinning is done, but only by
+the most industrious.
+
+[Illustration: _Spinning in the Sæter: Isterdal._]
+
+To see Isterdal the only way is to walk. Let us, therefore, continue
+on from the _sæter_ in the direction of the Valdal. This was done
+with Ole Fiva. Soon we began to ascend, for the end of the valley is
+precipitous, with a fine fall, the top of which must be reached before
+arriving at the plateau, _botten_, or _balloch_. On commencing the
+ascent Ole pointed out in the river below a spot where a bear had been
+killed; and higher up again where a bear lived, for he had seen it
+there. Some idea of the situation is given by the opposite woodcut,
+with the _aiguilles_ on the right. This is looking down Isterdal. The
+path was effaced the day before we passed by the descent of a quantity
+of rough stuff, more than sufficient to have carried us with it into
+the valley beneath. The _aiguilles_ are of a similar formation to the
+Troltinderne in Romsdal, and seem to be a nursery of trolds for future
+ages.
+
+[Illustration: _The Head of the Valley: Isterdal._]
+
+The evening glows on these pinnacles are marvellously and beautifully
+grand, and the transitions of hue from one to the other beyond
+imagination and conception. Still we work up. Ole, ignoring the
+slightly defined regular track, goes up really awful places, hauling
+himself up, and astonishing his follower and companion by displaying
+the most unnecessary and enviable agility. All honour to such strength
+and energy! By this time we had reached the plateau from which the
+murky Ister takes a header into the valley which lay at our feet. Once
+on the plateau, we could get along better over the stunted flora and
+bare rocks, with snow here and there, especially on the south-west
+side. The track is indicated by a few pieces of rock, put here and
+there in a pile, which being of the same formation as the rock we
+are walking on, the similarity of colour makes them very indistinct
+at times: the best way is to look out for one on the sky-line, if
+possible. After a long tramp we crossed the Ister again, and found
+it still more turbid, which was puzzling, as it seemed to come from
+a glacier above; but of this more anon. We worked on until we could
+look down Valdal, and having drunk in nature in that direction, took a
+little food from our wallets, and lay down for an _al fresco_ siesta on
+a handsome natural carpet of _fjelde reis_ and other vegetation.
+
+After that, Ole began telling of expeditions, traditions, and
+excursions to the Jager’s Steen, and formally wound up with the report
+of a frozen lake which a hunter had seen, but which had not been
+visited since. Could we find it? Was the Herr inclined to go? “Most
+certainly.” So we started.
+
+There is a wonderful sense of freedom, and yet of a closer commune with
+one’s Creator, in wandering over almost untrodden ground to admire
+some portion of his works that have been rarely visited by man. It is
+suggestive of drawing aside the veil of the tabernacle of nature; and
+happy is the man who derives comfort and soul strength in so doing!
+Ole led straight up over rocks bare and betumbled; not a symptom of
+vegetation; above us a glacier coming to the edge of a precipice, and
+the melting ice forming a fringed fall. We lay down, looking over
+the side on a bed of scarlet and crimson _fjelde reis_, a kind of
+cotoneaster. Beyond this ledge we saw the glacier imperceptibly coming
+on, backed in the long perspective of glacial blocks by a huge bare
+mass of rock, the Biskop, and the Drönningen. This was the source of
+the Ister. The water, some distance from the foot of the fall, passed
+over a soft deposit, which sullied its pristine purity right down
+to the sea, the “murky Ister,” thus acquiring near its origin its
+characteristic turbidity.
+
+[Illustration: _Melting Glacier over Valdal._]
+
+Now for a try for the unknown lake. Ole keeps on, thinking he has his
+bearings all right. At last, having climbed up by the side of a fall
+dashing down through bare rocks, came the summit, and creeping round a
+boulder, before us lies a lake intensely deep in colour, and full of
+icebergs and floes of old ice. Where we stood there was snow, with
+tracks of reindeer; but in places the former had melted, the _lemmings_
+had been there, and the reindeer-flowers were coming up. These we eat
+with _fladbrod og smör_ after a time, for we could not at once settle
+down to a snack without paying a tribute of respect to the majesty of
+nature before us. Beginning our meal in earnest, in the midst of it we
+heard a noise like a roll of thunder, the direction of which we soon
+discovered. On the left side of the lake the vast expanse of snow was
+riven by a gigantic avalanche, which ploughed its way down, and, coming
+to the edge of the rocks, plunged headlong into the lake, agitating all
+the ice, and causing the icebergs to jostle each other; but both water
+and ice soon regained their equilibrium, and nature lay before us in
+solemn silence and undisturbed majesty. It can well be imagined that
+having once attained such a spot—some 5,000 feet above the sea—there
+was a desire to linger, though the day was fading, and we had five and
+a half hours’ walk home. However, “En route!” was the word. Straight
+down from bare rock to rock simply ends in no knees after a time, and
+one’s legs become something between strips of asparagus and sea-kale.
+There was, however, one thing in store: once on a fair road, we could
+make some running. It was a lovely evening: we were late, it was true,
+but, as horses go freely with their noses towards home, we both took
+to the road very kindly, and went along with a will. Ole did not talk
+much. It is the pace that kills, and after sixteen hours’ trudge with
+our provisions, he no doubt felt that he had done enough. With health
+and strength, such a day amidst grand scenery is a joy for ever.
+
+[Illustration: _Church Axe._]
+
+
+
+
+                                 VIII.
+                      CEREMONIES, WEDDINGS, ETC.
+
+  WEDDINGS—COSTUME—THE PROCESSION TO THE CHURCH—THE
+      BRIDE’S RETURN—MOTTOES—BETROTHAL AND
+      MARRIAGE—CONFIRMATION—FUNERALS—THEIR “ONLY
+      ONE”—GRAVE-BOARD INSCRIPTIONS—HOME LIFE—ANTIPATHY
+      TO VENTILATION—NEW CURRENCY—GEOLOGY—VARIATIONS IN
+      TEMPERATURE—WATERFALLS—POPULATION—WOOD-CARVING—OLD SILVER.
+
+
+In all climes and in all stages of civilisation a wedding is an object
+of special interest, and is likely to bring forward some traits of
+national character. The bride is always the great attraction, of
+course, whether plain or old—not that any bride should ever be plain,
+however uncomely featured she may be, for on that day of all others,
+the spirit should shine through the clay, with every hope of happiness
+before her; and if there be happiness in the world, surely it must be
+when the bride becomes the better-half of him she loves. Let us, then,
+attend a Norske wedding.
+
+Weddings are not now as they used to be in the “good old days,” when
+knives and winding-sheets were a part of the programme—when grim
+rehearsals of the “Grapplers” were frequently repeated, and two
+combatants, with one belt round the two waists, grappled and struck
+until one was vanquished. No; Scandinavian ferocity is subsiding;
+they think more now of “bleeding” their foreign visitors, and the
+weddings are sobered down; but the arch-fiend of inebriation tightens
+his grip, and Norwegian weddings in the provinces are characterized by
+deep libations and their wretched consequences. Now, having noticed
+the worst feature of these Northern domestic gatherings, let us turn
+cheerily to the brighter side of them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Naturally costume immensely assists a ceremony like this, and should
+the bride not have old silver enough of her own, everybody is ready
+to contribute towards the general result, and is only too glad to do
+anything in his power to add to the brightness of the occasion. In
+Norway the bride wears a silver crown, which varies a little in form
+according to date, the most modern crowns branching out all round more
+than the older ones. The silver crowns are generally made with hinges,
+four or six in number, so that they may fold up into a small space for
+carrying in a _tine_, or box. The oldest forms are silver-gilt; the
+more recent are partially gilt, some parts being left bright silver.
+The bride also wears a thick curb chain, with a medal, which is
+sometimes set in filigree-work; but in the case under notice the medal
+was one cast with a fine bust of Nelson. Tidemand, the Norwegian genre
+painter, has portrayed many scenes of the “Bride preparing to start,”
+“Dressing the Bride,” &c.
+
+The procession to the church is generally all-important. First comes
+the fiddler, next the _kander_ or tankard man, then best man, bride and
+bridegroom, fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers, friends, relations,
+and many others—all the children of the place swarming round the
+church door. We should observe that there is a stolid immobility about
+some of the Norwegian _piger_ which seems to become intensified on
+these occasions; but when they do melt there must be a great overflow
+of spirit and reaction.
+
+The picturesque group at the altar of the church takes one back to the
+Middle Ages: the bride resplendent in costume—in some cases quaint
+to a degree, especially in Sætersdalen—with the old silver brooches,
+rings, and pendants of generations long gathered to their fathers;
+the bridegroom also, most likely, in costume, with his best man close
+by to look after the bridesmaid; in the centre, the Elizabethan ruff,
+pure white as in Queen Elizabeth’s time, thrown vigorously up by the
+sombre black gown, renders the priest a prominent figure; while perhaps
+a ray from the sun, descending on the group, shines upon the bride
+at the very moment when that ray only is wanted to complete the
+pictorial effect of the grouping and its surroundings. The verger, or
+clerk, with his long red pole—the functionary described in a former
+chapter—is not on active service to-day to awake the sleepers; in
+fact, the congregation seems rather inclined to turn the tables and
+wake him up. The church floor is, as usual, strewn with juniper tips,
+and after the ceremony the bride and bridegroom start home. Walk, ride,
+drive, or boat—that depends on the distance and character of the road
+to be traversed. They are all picturesque: the water, however, carries
+the palm, and, as we have before remarked, the whole scene causes one
+to revert to early days, before carriages were used, or roads were
+uninviting for travel, and when locomotion was a difficulty.
+
+[Illustration: _A Bridal Party crossing the Fjord._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Wedding._]
+
+What an evening it was, “the bride’s return!” As usual in Norway,
+you cannot go far without crossing a fjord: this the bride had to
+do. A twenty-oared sea-boat was her water carriage. What peace—what
+colour—what harmony! Was it typical of her future married life? A
+zephyr just filled the broad sail, the large prow rearing grandly in
+front, with a huge bunch of flowers and green things innumerable on
+the top; then a large flag and more flowers at the mast-head; and the
+rowers every now and then bursting out into a refrain, which as one
+leaves off the other takes up. And how these Norsemen do row—always
+together! It is generally allowed, by men of experience in Norway,
+that so long as the rower is not too “arch-fiended” to sit up, he will
+always keep time with his oar. The dip of the oars in the calm is
+delightfully refreshing, and the regular sweep gives an idea of power.
+Fun is going on at the other end of the boat; for the bride is there
+on a raised seat, with the bridegroom, supported by their friends.
+The second boat is being left behind, so the _kander-man_ is holding
+a large silver tankard to encourage and at the same time joke them.
+Doubtless a spurt will be put on after this, and another race commenced
+for the run home; or they may just stop for one more _skaal_ (the
+bride’s health), and when they have once commenced, be undecided as to
+going home.
+
+[Illustration: _Drinking Horn in the Collection of C. Hampden Wigram,
+Esq._]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One thing is a comfort, at all events; all through the country there
+is strong evidence of family affection, and these weddings are only
+the beginning of a new era of happiness. In Thelemarken, as we have
+already had occasion to remark, one custom is for the bridegroom
+to elaborately carve the _stabur_, or family treasure-house, with
+excellent designs and cunning work, which he effects with his
+tolle-knife; and another is to carve good mottoes on the large beds and
+over the doors of the rooms. The following are some from Thelemarken
+district, that quaint land of short waists, shoulder-blades, and white
+jackets—a land abounding with grand old conscientious work; huge
+timbers made into solid houses; no hurry-skurry, no slurriness, no
+giving as little as possible for wages received—real good timber-work;
+while inside may be found carved chests, some of them family treasures
+handed down for generations. Motto over bed, carved in: “This is my
+bed and resting-place, where God gives me peace and rest, that I may
+healthy arise and serve Him.” Over the entrance to a house: “Stand,
+house, in the presence of our Lord, assured from all danger, from fire
+and theft. Save it, thou, O God; bless also all who go in and all who
+go out here.” The ale-bowls, too, have good mottoes: “Of me you must
+drink; but swear not, nor ever drink too much.” This motto we would
+recommend to the licensed victuallers of England, as good for their
+“pewters.” Another drinking-bowl: “I am as a star unto you, and all
+the girls drink of me willingly.” Another: “Taste of the fruit of the
+corn-field, and thank God from your inmost heart.” This one again:
+“Drink me forthwith, and be thankful, for I shall soon be no more.”
+These, we say, are good sentiments, and worthy of note; and they must
+be the outcome of deeply rooted honest hearts, anxious to benefit not
+only those about them, but those who may follow.
+
+[Illustration: _The Bride’s Return by Water._]
+
+When the bride returns home there are great doings, with firing of
+guns, and, as we have before observed, libations and dancing; the
+latter doing good and giving pleasure, the former, to say the least
+of them, producing the next day what is known in Scotland as the
+“blacksmith’s hammer on the forehead.”
+
+What a contrast to a Norwegian wedding, carried out with all its
+details, is the modern civilisation of being married before a
+“Registrar”—a process which must be sudden death to sentiment, and
+destructive of all the sacred associations so closely linked with the
+solemnity of marriage in Norway! Marriage takes time. The Lutheran
+Church has two distinct services or ceremonies, which conduce to
+the steady-going of the young people concerned, and tend to develop
+prudent and careful living. There is first the betrothal, and then
+the wedding. Circumstances decide the particular period between the
+two events—one year generally, sometimes two or more; in any case
+the betrothal is a good preparation for the responsibilities of
+married life, and certainly works well. One thing is beyond denial—it
+affords an opportunity to discover latent objections and bad habits,
+which might not crop out all at once while the lover is offering a
+concentrated essence of courtship. By the betrothal system a girl
+enters upon a certain and marked position, being as it were an aspirant
+to the honour and dignity of marriage; and this training has generally
+a most wholesome effect. The same system is likewise carried out by the
+provincial peasants, though these simple folk are sometimes a little
+impatient of the second ceremony; but the law of Norway has alleviated
+any difficulty which might arise from such impetuosity, and taken the
+same _status_ as that of Scotland.
+
+[Illustration: _Before the Wedding._]
+
+The wedding festival will frequently last a week—early and late. It is
+not “What a day we are having!” but “What a week we are having!” The
+home love of the people is prominently shown on occasions like these;
+their simple affection and general kindliness can only be the outcome
+of tenderness and sympathy in their every-day life, when the mothers
+are so motherly, the fathers so fatherly. No “iceberg dads” are to be
+found in Norway; they are more like the stoves which every one gathers
+round for comfort when the chills of life are likely to be forthcoming.
+And the priest comes out strongly on these occasions, for, as we
+have previously noticed, he is a part of every family; he shares the
+troubles of the flocks, and enhances their joys. He is no kill-joy; on
+the contrary, he enters into all that is going on, joins in the songs,
+is generally convivial at table, and is not shy of tobacco; he is, in
+fact, a practical, genial Christian, and consequently does good service
+to the cause he represents and to his flock.
+
+[Illustration: _The Arrival at Home._]
+
+We now come to the last ceremonies of the Church, only remarking on
+our way the very great importance attached by the Lutheran Church to
+confirmation. In this the Church does well, and sows good seed at the
+right time—seed which is to be the joy of riper years and the backbone
+of posterity.
+
+[Illustration: _Hitterdal Church._]
+
+A Norwegian funeral is surrounded by an unwholesome atmosphere of
+intense melancholy; hope and faith seem trampled down for the moment by
+the weight of present grief. The Norwegians certainly do not look upon
+the arrival of the reaper who puts in the sickle as the “order of
+release” from the trammels of our lower state. Perhaps their intensity
+of feeling is a certain relief from which they rebound to a lighter
+burden in after-life. Their quiet, secluded life encourages this; the
+very sombreness of the country develops it; and the almost oppressive
+grandeur of the scenery sustains it; while the absence of birds with
+joyous song certainly adds to it.
+
+[Illustration: _Return from the Christening._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Funeral: Bergen._]
+
+Funerals in this country take many forms. First, in towns, for plump,
+portly burghers, as well as for men of note in letters, politics, or
+art, there is the old form of coffin chariot, with cock-hatted driver,
+the horses clothed in all the panoply of funereal darkness, the road
+sprinkled with juniper or yew twigs, the Death’s head blended with a
+flame rising from the urn as decoration; the latter the only cheerful,
+hopeful thought in the whole arrangement. We regret to add that, like
+weddings, funerals are characterized by heavy libations. As to military
+obsequies, they are much the same in all lands, and therefore we need
+say nothing concerning them. And now, away from towns and cemeteries,
+to the more simple method of taking farewell of passing spirits and
+lifeless clay.
+
+[Illustration: _The Stolkjær and Boat._]
+
+During the visit to Indfjord a description was given of the funeral of
+Ingeborg, a good _pige_ swept away by a landslip. How full of sympathy
+the good folk were; how the finest breed of _blakken_ was brought,
+with the best carved collar the district could produce, to honour her
+last remains! And in another place we referred to the more common
+occurrence of the coffin being placed on a _stolkjær_. During the
+winter, in some of the most inaccessible farms, such as the Geiranger,
+where there is no landing-place, the body is kept until spring.
+This seems protracted agony; but there is the balance of nature—no
+decomposition. In the less-frequented rivers a solitary boat may
+sometimes be seen, containing a funeral party unattended, their sorrow
+self-contained and unshared by others. The opposite woodcut illustrates
+a touching incident—a _bonde_ and wife taking their “only one” to
+God’s acre. This is secluded life intensified. Their little one—their
+treasure and delight, their pet lamb—was called home, and they had
+to take it to its resting-place. The poor mother may have borne up
+bravely, but the sight of the churchyard in the distance was too much
+for her, and at last she gave way and sobbed over the coffin. But when
+she arrives the priest with kindly voice and deep sympathy will comfort
+and cheer her. Little, however, will they talk as they row back, with
+their hearts full and their home empty. None but those who have had an
+only one called away can realise the blank—their “sunbeam” gone. The
+grave-boards bear simple and pious inscriptions. We append a few here.
+
+[Illustration: _Their “only one.”_]
+
+
+                        LINES ON GRAVE-BOARDS.
+
+             TRANSLATED WORD FOR WORD FROM THE ORIGINALS.
+
+
+                          ELL OLSDATTER HOEL.
+
+  I was old and weary of my days, and my last footsteps were heavy;
+  but thanks be to Jesus for his mercy, He opened my eyes so that I
+  saw danger was near. In much trouble I must sing. Jesus is always
+  present, and does not take his hand from us. At last I found the
+  well from which my comfort ran.
+
+
+                          INGRID LEDINGSÖIEN.
+
+    To children and friends! is Jesus Christ’s cry: Come, see I
+        come; mourn therefore but with hope.
+
+    Farewell. I depart. The sorrow you now taste must in love take
+        place. God himself will guard you so that we shall soon
+        without complaint meet before his throne.
+
+
+                              OLE GRÖDAL.
+
+    To my Father I go home; there is rest and quiet; and I know
+        for certain there is also a dwelling there for me prepared.
+        Hear my sigh, Lord, and keep my spirit in thine hand.
+
+
+                            OLE WINNEVOLD.
+
+    Away from the world I fly full of trouble home to rest. I am
+        ready to travel when my sweet Jesus will.
+
+
+                            GUNDER GRÖDAL.
+
+    Seven times ten and four years was the goal the Good God had
+        decided for us in our journey home; our mutual mother is
+        earth. There, in the silent home of the grave, ends our
+        last journey. Farewell then, friends, far and near. I wish
+        every one in particular a good end.
+
+
+                                LÖKEN.
+
+    Through pain Life is born; below the cross sin dies. After
+        the cross, the crown is given; After wailing, the cry of
+        victory.
+
+
+                             INDRE LÖKEN.
+
+    Now have I triumphed by the blood of the wounds of Jesus. I
+        have found my God, and gladly go to heaven.
+
+
+The home life of Norway is very simple throughout: in summer, the
+perfect enjoyment of the short but bright season; in winter, spinning,
+weaving, and sledging. The absence of rudeness—the modern term “chaff”
+is unknown—the “even-manneredness” of the people in all classes,
+must strike a stranger. Whatever may be the class of society, there
+is always the same kindly politeness. No double set of manners, as
+civilisation brings about; no rudeness to inferiors, or fawning to
+superiors; the equal distribution of this world’s goods, combined with
+innate kindliness, prevents this. No unkindness, for they are tender
+to all dumb animals, and that is an undoubted sign of sterling worth.
+And yet, with all this, what jolly little things the children and young
+folk are! They will make the most charming little curtsey, and then go
+off, children to the core. A good innocent romp, how they enjoy it! The
+young girls, too, are so natural, perfectly easy, and well behaved,
+that it is refreshing to be with them. Nothing prim or starched about
+them, but good hearts, with the bloom of youth. Their dances, too, how
+they enjoy them; and then a song, with a chorus from the whole company,
+and another dance! Capital housewives these Scandinavian maidens should
+make, for even the _fröken_, or young girl of position, carries out all
+the household duties of home, and enters into the real work of life
+with the greatest earnestness, being mistress of every detail, and yet
+the most charming of God’s work—a natural lady. N.B.—The Patriarch
+did not lose his heart in Gamle Norge; that was safely at home in the
+good care of one who has monopolized it ever since he was a boy.
+
+[Illustration: _Sledging._]
+
+Norwegian housekeeping is so totally different from anything we
+have that it will be well to note it here. The wife has greater
+responsibility and requires more forethought than with us. There are
+no co-operative stores to which to send a long list; no one calls
+for orders, or solicits the favour of custom; no inviting circulars
+or enticing advertisements create an appetite for new purchases, and
+make one believe that superfluous things are absolutely necessary,
+and must be had. Nor does the husband go to town every day, and bring
+back anything the dear wife has forgotten. Her mental powers and good
+management must be equal to getting everything in before the winter
+arrives, not for the family only, but for the labourers also; and all
+this perhaps on slender means, sparse harvests, and bad seasons. In
+this respect, therefore, if for no other, the betrothal system comes
+in well, affording the young couple plenty of time for the acquisition
+of a thorough knowledge of what their new position may necessitate.
+
+There is one thing, however, Norwegians do not comprehend, and that is
+the blessing of ventilation. They cannot understand it, and certainly
+never practise it. Their rooms are stuffed up in every conceivable
+way. As soon as the cold weather begins the internal atmosphere of the
+house remains unchanged until the following summer. When you open the
+door you have to cut your way in; it is as dense as cold turtle, and
+less agreeable. The marvel is that colds are not more prevalent, from
+the fact that the good folk wash their necks on Saturday afternoon as
+a preparation for the Sunday, when they dress in their best, and look
+like different creatures.
+
+[Illustration: _The Gentle Reproof._]
+
+
+We are drawing near to the end of our tether, and much as we love home,
+there is not the same buoyancy about the return, however happy or
+successful the trip may have been, as there is about the start; for the
+latter is an important event, teeming with hope and expectancy, from
+the _couleur-de-rose_ descriptions of friends who have preceded us,
+and who have heartily enjoyed the recapitulation of their adventures,
+narrow escapes, and temporary deprivations. But it is very different
+with the end of a journey. There is something of the Ichabod in it; and
+yet we know not why there should be; for if it has been one of danger,
+we ought to be thankful that it is over; and if, on the contrary,
+it has been productive of pleasant associations, we should still be
+thankful, inasmuch as it will prove a bright spot to fall back upon
+and refresh ourselves with when wearied in after-life. So we will not
+be depressed at the end of our trip to Gamle Norge; we would rather
+think of all the kindnesses of the people, the grand scenery of the
+coast, the combinations of sea-rock façade and snow, and learn a lesson
+of contentment and Christian love from the _bönder_ and their happy
+families.
+
+Having overcome this very natural feeling of regret that our holiday
+is over, let us, in conclusion, notice a few leading characteristics
+of the country which have been unnoted as we passed through it. Its
+geology is most characteristic, while in variety of climate it stands
+alone. Its wood-carving, too, has great individuality; and so has its
+old silver.[6]
+
+  [6] THE NEW CURRENCY OF NORWAY.—This change from the old specie dollar
+and skillings came into force on January 1st, 1877, when specie
+dollars, marks or orts, and skillings became matters of history. The
+new _régime_ is as follows:—
+
+
+KRONE AND ØRE.
+
+ SILVER. 1 krone = 30 skillings of old Norwegian money = 1s. 1¼d. 1
+krone is divided into 100 øre. Silver coins are 1 kroner. Copper coins
+are 1 øre, 2 øre, 5 øre.
+
+½ krone = 50 øre. ¼ krone = 25 øre. 10 krone = 1000 øre. GOLD COINS
+(scarce; gold coins having been introduced only in 1875). 10 kroner
+pieces and 20 krone. NOTES. 5 kr., 10 kr., 25 kr., 50 kr., 100 kr., 500
+kr., 1000 kr. 18 kroner = one sovereign English.
+
+Let us, then, take a general view of the geological formation. Any
+one specially interested in this subject should study the “Geologisk
+oversigtskart over det Sydlige Norge,” 1858 to 1865, by Theodore
+Kjerulf og Tellef Dahll; but for others a general idea will suffice.
+
+1. Gneiss predominates in the Romsdal and Sneehættan districts; also
+north and south of Sogne fjord, running down to the entrance of
+Hardanger.
+
+2. Granite predominates in the south in large areas up to the Vöring
+Fos, and in detached portions in Vestranden towards Trondhjem.
+Christiansand is granite.
+
+3. Sparagmit fjeldets (Norske) is found in Central Norway. This is
+a comglomerate of red sandstone, and sometimes called red and grey
+sparagmite.
+
+4. Trondhjem quartz in the north, really hard schist: not found south
+of the Dovre fjeld.
+
+5. Syenite and porphyry round Christiania.
+
+6. Labrador stone occurs west of Lindernæs, in the south, at Ekersund
+on the west coast, below Stavanger, round the Galdhopiggen (the highest
+point in Norway), and north-east of Fortun, in the Sogne fjord.
+
+The whole of this surface bears record of the immense extent and effect
+of the glacial period of Norway. The valleys show the glacial set as
+distinctly as does the tide in large rivers, the greatest attrition
+and scoriation being in the concaves going down. Huge bastions of
+rock[7] have been rounded and ground down by constant attrition, and
+vast terraces of sand, at the end of each valley, are the result of
+this attrition accumulating for ages. It would be very interesting
+to analyze and find the component parts of these immense deposits.
+Certain it is there is no natural sandy soil above, and, as we have
+before mentioned, when reindeer-hunting, we have found huge boulders
+of thirty or forty feet at an elevation of 5,000 feet, with smaller
+ones of a different formation resting on them. Now all this has been
+brought about by the influence of the gulf stream: when the gulf stream
+took this course the glacial period ceased in Norway. That epoch none
+can tell. It will be sufficient to notice the result, which is this:
+when the polar current from Spitzbergen runs down the west coast of
+the Atlantic, and produces the great fogs off Newfoundland, the gulf
+stream, driven up from the Gulf of Florida by the force of the great
+caldron of the equator, strikes on to our west coast and the coast
+of Norway, running up to the North Cape; in fact, the only timber
+to be obtained there is the drift wood from the West Indies; and at
+Hammerfest casks of palm oil have been washed up from Cape Lopez Point,
+in Africa. In Iceland, too, as Professor Ericker Magnussen informs us,
+the bridges are made of mahogany. Not that bridges are frequent in
+that country; but those which they have are made from the logs washed
+up there. This accounts for the variety of temperature which the two
+boundaries of Norway—the gulf stream on the west, and Sweden on the
+east—present. For instance, though Bergen and Christiania are in about
+the same latitude, the average temperature at the former is 46° 8´ and
+at the latter 41° 5´; the summer average is about the same; but in the
+winter months Christiania is often 13° colder than Bergen. Hence there
+may be skating at Christiania while there is none at all at Bergen,
+where the average annual rainfall is 72 inches, which, by the way, is
+lower than that in our English lakes.
+
+  [7] See the rocks of Steensund, on the west coast: these are
+conglomerate.
+
+                             MEAN TEMPERATURE.
+
+                        Winter.  Spring.  Summer.  Autumn.
+    Christiania          + 25°    + 38°    + 60°    + 42°
+    Bergen               + 36     + 45     + 58     + 48
+    Trondhjem            + 24     + 35     + 61     + 40
+    North Cape           + 24     + 30     + 42     + 32
+
+The mean temperature at North Cape is 32°, the greatest cold arising
+from north-east winds. Thunder-storms occur in winter, while west winds
+cause dense fogs.
+
+At the conclusion of Forbes’s “Norway” will be found a most interesting
+map, with isothermal lines passing through those places which have
+the same temperature in the months of January and July; and it is very
+striking to notice that the July temperature of the north of Ireland
+and Edinburgh is maintained through Norway as far as the Arctic Circle,
+when it begins to deflect to the eastward, where the gulf stream’s
+influence ceases.
+
+[Illustration: _Stabur and Wooden Tankards._]
+
+Again, the waterfalls are a great feature of this country. Some
+one has depicted Norway thus [Symbol], and the Alps thus [Symbol].
+There is much truth in this. The valleys running down to the fjords
+produce immense precipices, down which rush the many waters of the
+high plateaux of 3,000 or 4,000 feet; and in some parts these falls
+are strengthened by the waters of the vast stretch of _sneebræden_,
+or snow-fields, of which the Justedal and the Folgefond are the most
+extensive.
+
+The casual observer, looking at the map of Norway, would think it well
+populated, but a few years ago its inhabitants numbered hardly more
+than one-fourth those of London and its suburbs.[8] The names on the
+map frequently represent mere stations, farms, _præstegaarden_, or
+rectories, and villages are seldom seen. As in Scotland, the farmer
+takes the name of his land. In fact, Norway and Scotland are very
+closely allied to each other in many respects.
+
+  [8] Population of Norway, 1,150,000.
+
+From the Runic downwards, the wood-carving of Norway stands alone for
+distinctive characteristics, and is still carried on in every variety
+by means of the simple national tolle-knife, which is ready for
+everything.
+
+The lintels and carvings of the _staburs_, or store-houses, in
+Thelemarken have been already shown, but the most interesting specimens
+are found in churches, where the tortuous lines are full of originality
+and power of design. Serpents are ever-present and ever-varying,
+the museums being rich in specimens of this ecclesiastical class of
+work. Wood, and birch especially, is used for every kind of domestic
+utensil, and ornamentation is very generally introduced. Some of the
+old horse collars are beautiful, and are sometimes painted; tankards
+are richly carved; spoons profusely so; and on some occasions the
+bridegroom, if he be very expert, prepares a double spoon for the bride
+and himself, wherewith to eat their porridge simultaneously. Drinking
+bowls, salt-boxes, _mangel stoks_, are all carved; and this art is much
+encouraged by the long winter evenings.
+
+The old silver of Norway is so large a subject that a series of
+illustrations would be necessary to do justice to the matter; but
+its day is fast passing away. The peasants and fishermen have found
+new outlets for their earnings, and the time has gone by when they
+wondered what new thing they could have made in the precious metal;
+in fact, electro-plate is now invading Gamle Norge. May the _bönder_
+select the blessings of civilisation and eschew its evils! May their
+home happiness and love be ever-increasing, and the kind welcome which
+we have so often experienced never decrease in heartiness! For a time
+farewell!
+
+                            FARVEL, FARVEL!
+
+[Illustration: _Costume of Lutheran Priest of Norway._]
+
+        PRINTED BY VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD, LONDON.
+
+
+                         Transcriber’s Notes:
+
+ - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+ - Blank pages have been removed.
+ - Title page has been moved to start.
+ - Redundant chapter heading pages have been removed.
+ - Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
+ - Dropcaps image caption text is marked as [Dropcap caption: ...]
+ - Dropcapped paragraphs treated as the start of a new section.
+ - Illustration listing as facing page 183 changed to actual location
+   as frontispiece.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles
+in Norway, by Robert Taylor Pritchett
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GAMLE NORGE: RAMBLES AND SCRAMBLES ***
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles in
+Norway, by Robert Taylor Pritchett
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+Title: 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles in Norway
+
+Author: Robert Taylor Pritchett
+
+Release Date: November 22, 2020 [EBook #63851]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GAMLE NORGE: RAMBLES AND SCRAMBLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Charlene Taylor, Bryan Ness, Robert Tonsing
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian
+Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+  <div class="figcenter epub-hide">
+    <img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="titlepage">
+    <h1><span class="xlarge">“GAMLE NORGE”</span><br />
+      RAMBLES AND SCRAMBLES<br />
+      <span class="xsmall">IN</span><br />
+      <span class="gespertt">NORWAY</span></h1>
+
+    <div class="large mt10"><span class="smcap">By</span> ROBERT TAYLOR PRITCHETT</div>
+
+    <div class="mt10 mb10"><i>WITH MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY ILLUSTRATIONS</i></div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+      <img class="p260" src="images/title.png" alt="" />
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="mt10">LONDON<br />
+      <span class="gespertt">VIRTUE &amp; CO.</span>, <span class="smcap">Limited</span>, 26, <span class="gespertt">IVY LANE</span><br />
+      PATERNOSTER ROW<br />
+      1879
+    </div>
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="center mt20 mb20">
+    <i>The Engravings in this Work have been executed by Messrs.</i> <span class="smcap">J. &amp; G. Nicholls</span>,
+    <i>under the personal supervision of the Artist.</i>
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="frontispiece">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Meal Mill: Isterdal.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/frontispiece_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <h2 id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" >
+    <img class="p150" src="images/diamondbar.png" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-cap">THE object of the present work is to bring before the notice of the
+    general reader and tourist the advantages and pleasure accruing from
+    a few weeks’ sojourn among the mountains and fjords of that grand yet
+    simple country, Norway. Everywhere abounding with features of interest,
+    it will especially commend itself to the Englishman when he calls to
+    mind how close was the link between the Scandinavians and his ancestors.</p>
+
+  <p>To travel profitably it is not sufficient merely to notice or admire
+    scenic effects. Men and manners should also be closely observed; and
+    no object or detail, however trivial, should be neglected or deemed
+    beneath regard. Norway presents a wide field for observation and
+    research, whatever may be the tastes and predilections of the visitor.
+    Here may the geologist, if so disposed, find ample material for study;
+    the archæologist and antiquarian may revel among Runic stones, Viking
+    tumuli, rites and ceremonies, quaint wood-carvings adorned with the
+    ever-twining serpent, costumes, customs, &amp;c.; the keenest sportsman
+    will find a treat in store for him; while the lover of the grand in
+    nature and of simple rustic life will meet with them here to his
+    heart’s content. But to do this the main roads and cities must be
+    abandoned for the mountains and fjelds, with their reindeer tracts and
+    trout streams.</p>
+
+  <p>To the Fjeld, then, to the Fjeld! with its beautiful flora and mosses,
+    its sport, its avalanches and landslips, its balmy air and soothing
+    zephyrs. To the Fjeld&mdash;off to the Fjeld!</p>
+
+  <p class="right">R. T. P.</p>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <img class="p150" src="images/diamondbar.png" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <table summary="Contents">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#CHRISTIANSAND_AND_CHRISTIANIA">I.&mdash;CHRISTIANSAND AND CHRISTIANIA.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl">&nbsp;</td>
+        <td class="tdr xsmall"><div>PAGE</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">GAMLE NORGE&mdash;AN EARLY MURRAY&mdash;UNEXPLORED STATE OF THE COUNTRY&mdash;THE
+          PIONEERS OF SPORT&mdash;CROSSING THE NORTH SEA&mdash;NOT THEN AS NOW&mdash;CONTENT OF
+          THE PEASANTS&mdash;CHARM OF THE FJELD&mdash;CHRISTIANSAND&mdash;CHRISTIANIA&mdash;THE
+          EMIGRANT’S VICISSITUDES&mdash;THE VICTORIA HOTEL AND OSCAR HALL</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>3</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#THELEMARKEN">II.&mdash;THELEMARKEN.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">LYSTHUS&mdash;COMPONENT PARTS OF TRAVEL&mdash;HITTERDAL CHURCH&mdash;THE CHAIR&mdash;THE CAMP
+          AT SKEJE&mdash;FLATDAL&mdash;RELICS OF THE PAST&mdash;THE ASTONISHED MAGPIE AND UNKNOWN
+          MUSIC&mdash;THE COSTUMES OF THELEMARKEN&mdash;THE “HULDRE”&mdash;THE BEAUTIFUL
+          TROLD&mdash;BERGE AND THE MANGLETRÆ&mdash;MOGEN&mdash;THE PLOUGH, REIN HORNS, AND
+          SNOW SHOES&mdash;BOCKLEY AND PUKKINGS&mdash;BLACK-BROWN BEER&mdash;JAMSGAARD&mdash;A NIGHT
+          IN THE LAAVE&mdash;CAMP BEDS AND HAMMOCK&mdash;BOTTEN&mdash;NEW ROAD-MAKING&mdash;WEIRD
+          SCOTCH FIRS&mdash;A BLASTED FOREST</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>19</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#HARDANGER">III.&mdash;HARDANGER.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">HAUKELID&mdash;SLAUGHTER OF REINDEER IN A BOTTEN&mdash;THE BROKEN BRIDGE&mdash;THE FORD&mdash;USEFUL
+          OLD PONY&mdash;THE ASCENT&mdash;ROLDAL VALLEY AND BRIDGE&mdash;THE LENSMAND&mdash;FLORA
+          AND LONG TRAMP&mdash;DOUBLE SOLAR RAINBOW&mdash;SNOW SHOES&mdash;GRÖNDAL AND
+          DISTANT FOLGEFOND&mdash;ZIGZAG ROAD&mdash;SELJESTAD&mdash;NO FOOD, BUT A GOOD PONY&mdash;GRÖNDAL
+          WATERFALLS&mdash;SANDEN VAND&mdash;THE LATE ARRIVAL AT ODDE</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>41</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#BERGEN_AND_ARCHAEOLOGY">IV.&mdash;BERGEN AND ARCHÆOLOGY.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">FROM ODDE DOWN SÖR FJORD&mdash;UTNE&mdash;HARDANGER FJORD&mdash;FAIRY TROLDS&mdash;BJERG
+          TROLDS&mdash;THE HULDRE&mdash;THE NÖKKEN&mdash;THE NISSER&mdash;HAUGE FOLKET&mdash;TUFTI FOLKET&mdash;THE
+          DRANGEN&mdash;CRACA, THE WITCH OF NORWAY&mdash;OLAF KYRRE, THE NORSE KING&mdash;BERGEN&mdash;THE
+          HANSEATIC LEAGUE&mdash;THE GERMAN MERCHANTS&mdash;THE “PFEFFER
+          JUNKERS”&mdash;THE FISH FOLK OF BERGEN&mdash;THE MUSEUM&mdash;STRAX&mdash;THE SILDE KONGE&mdash;NORWEGIAN
+          WHALE SKELETONS&mdash;THE FLINT PERIOD&mdash;BRONZE PERIOD&mdash;INHUMATION
+          AND CINERATION&mdash;ROMAN INFLUENCE&mdash;THE IRON PERIOD&mdash;ARCHÆOLOGICAL
+          PERIODS IN NORWAY</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>53</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#WEST_COAST_AND_NORDFJORD">V.&mdash;WEST COAST AND NORDFJORD.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">COAST TRAVELLING&mdash;BERGEN HARBOUR&mdash;THE SCHOONER YACHT&mdash;SKAALS OVERDONE&mdash;WEST
+          COAST&mdash;STEENSUND&mdash;ALDEN&mdash;OUSEN AND ITS GARDEN ROOFS&mdash;EN ROUTE FOR
+          SANDE&mdash;DELIGHTFUL STATION&mdash;GOOD FISH&mdash;JOLSTER VAND AND NEDRE VASENDEN&mdash;THE
+          ANXIOUS BATHER&mdash;PICTURESQUE CHURCH-GOING&mdash;NORWEGIAN BLAKKEN&mdash;THE
+          ACCIDENT&mdash;THE FRIENDLY TOILETTE&mdash;COSTUMES AND BABY SWADDLING&mdash;SCARCITY<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span>
+          OF FOOD&mdash;THE TENTMASTER COOKING&mdash;NORDFJORD ANTIQUITIES&mdash;PROFESSOR
+          WORSAAE AND M. LORANGE&mdash;CONTENTS OF TUMULUS&mdash;THE VIKINGS’ GAME OF
+          “MYLLA”&mdash;UDVIG&mdash;THE BAD PASS FROM MOLDESTADT&mdash;SNOW POLES&mdash;THE POSTMAN
+          AND BIRCH BOUGHS&mdash;BIRTHDAY FESTIVITIES&mdash;FALEIDET&mdash;LYTH FISHING&mdash;HAUGEN
+          AND HORNINGDALSKRAKKEN&mdash;HELLESYLT&mdash;BELTS&mdash;THE GEIRANGER FJORD&mdash;CAPTAIN
+          DAHL&mdash;THE SEVEN SISTERS&mdash;THE VIKING’S HEAD&mdash;THE PULPIT&mdash;MARAAK&mdash;STORFJORD</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>73</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#MOLDE_AND_ROMSDAL">VI.&mdash;MOLDE AND ROMSDAL.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">MOLDE&mdash;THE GOOD SHIP “TASSO”&mdash;STATLAND&mdash;AALESUND&mdash;MOLDE LANDING&mdash;HERR
+          BUCK&mdash;THE LOVE OF FLOWERS AT MOLDE&mdash;THE LEPER HOUSE&mdash;MOLDE TO
+          VEBLUNGSNÆS&mdash;THE BEAR AND THE PIGE&mdash;ROMSDAL FJORD&mdash;AAK&mdash;THE RAUMA&mdash;THE
+          OLD CHURCH OF GRYTEN&mdash;THE CANDELABRA&mdash;HERR ONSUM&mdash;NÆSS&mdash;THE SKYD-GUT&mdash;THE
+          SAIL WITH SEA ROVERS&mdash;THE INEBRIATED BAKER OF WHITE BREAD&mdash;OLE
+          LARSEN&mdash;THE LAAVE&mdash;HERR LANDMARK AND THE HOTEL AT AAK&mdash;KJERULF THE
+          COMPOSER&mdash;THE ROMSDAL HORN&mdash;THE TROLTINDERNE&mdash;FIVA&mdash;THE MEAL HOUSE&mdash;THE
+          STEEN-SKREED&mdash;THE SOLGANG WIND&mdash;THE SHEEP BOY AND GOAT HORN&mdash;SEA-FISHING&mdash;WOODWORK&mdash;CARRIOLES&mdash;HOW
+          TO CROSS A RIVER&mdash;OLD KYLE&mdash;MØLMEN
+          CHURCH, AND THE SLEEPER’S CURE&mdash;FLIES&mdash;SALMON-FISHING FROM A TINE</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>101</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#THE_FJELD_AND_REINDEER">VII.&mdash;THE FJELD AND REINDEER.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">OPENING DAY FOR REINDEER&mdash;AALESUND&mdash;AURORA BOREALIS&mdash;INQUIRING FRIENDS&mdash;BERRY
+          VARIETIES&mdash;TO THE FJELD&mdash;NECESSARIES&mdash;REINDEER-FLOWERS&mdash;TO THE
+          TENTS&mdash;THE DOGGIES&mdash;DANJEL AND OLE&mdash;MØLMEN&mdash;THE ARRIVAL&mdash;OUR CONCERT&mdash;PTARMIGAN&mdash;REINDEER
+          SPÖR&mdash;TROUT-FISHING IN THE VAND&mdash;GOOD SPORT&mdash;THE
+          TENTMASTER’S STORY&mdash;PASSOP AND THE STOR BUCK&mdash;SNOW-WORK&mdash;SÆTER LIFE&mdash;MARITZ’S
+          LONELY STATE&mdash;HER KINDLINESS&mdash;THE SWIZZLE-STICK&mdash;THE OLD BOAT&mdash;THE
+          EAGLE AND NEST&mdash;REINDEER AND RED DEER HEADS&mdash;THE DIFFICULTY OF
+          GETTING THEM&mdash;INDFJORD&mdash;OLE ERIKSON BOE&mdash;HALVE JACOBSEN&mdash;INGEBORG AND
+          THE STEEN-SKREED&mdash;INGRANA’S ACCOUNT&mdash;INGEBORG’S FUNERAL&mdash;RUNICSTONE&mdash;GRAVE-BOARDS&mdash;ISTERDAL&mdash;THE
+          MEAL-MILL&mdash;OLD KYLE&mdash;A SIMPLE-MINDED COW&mdash;OLE
+          FIVA&mdash;AIGUILLES&mdash;VALDAL&mdash;THE SOURCE OF THE ISTER&mdash;EXPEDITION TO A
+          FROZEN LAKE</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>137</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div><a href="#CEREMONIES_WEDDINGS_ETC">VIII.&mdash;CEREMONIES, WEDDINGS, ETC.</a></div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl small">WEDDINGS&mdash;COSTUME&mdash;THE PROCESSION TO THE CHURCH&mdash;THE BRIDE’S RETURN&mdash;MOTTOES&mdash;BETROTHAL
+          AND MARRIAGE&mdash;CONFIRMATION&mdash;FUNERALS THEIR “ONLY
+          ONE”&mdash;GRAVE-BOARD INSCRIPTIONS&mdash;HOME LIFE&mdash;ANTIPATHY TO VENTILATION&mdash;NEW
+          CURRENCY&mdash;GEOLOGY&mdash;VARIATIONS IN TEMPERATURE&mdash;WATERFALLS&mdash;POPULATION&mdash;WOOD-CARVING&mdash;OLD
+          SILVER</td>
+        <td class="tdr small"><div>191</div></td>
+      </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <img class="p260" src="images/i_viii.png" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" >
+    <img class="p150" src="images/diamondbar.png" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="center large">FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</div>
+
+  <table summary="Contents">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#frontispiece">The Meal Mill: Isterdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_011f">The Courtyard, Victoria Hotel, Christiania</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_013f">A Timber Shoot</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_023f">Kongsberg: Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_027f">Hitterdal Church: Sunday Morning</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_031f">Flatdal: Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_037f">Jamsgaard Laave</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_043f">The Wooden Bridge at Roldal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_047f">Skjæggedal Fos</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_058f">Bergen</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_059f">Bergen: Fish Market in the distance</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_075f">The Village and Church of Alva</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_081f">The Friendly Toilette</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_083f">Sanoe, looking down the Valley</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_084f">Bronze Bowl, with Enamel Case, Swords of Viking Period: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_087f">The Post arriving at Udvig</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_096f">Hellesylt</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_097f">The Geiranger Fjord: Seven Sisters Fall</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_109f">Veblungsnæs: Romsdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_119f">The Troltinderne by Moonlight</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_123f">Romsdal Snow</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_124f">Making for the Fjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_129f">Interior of Mølmen Church</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_145f">Near Ovendal: after Reindeer</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_161f">The Stige-steen, or Ladder Rock</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_171f">Volda</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_172f">Syltebø: with Farm Implements</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_179f">Landslip at Sylbotten: Indfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_180f">Runic Stone, with Inscription, near Indfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_181f">The Gravested: Ingeborg’s Funeral, Indfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_185f">The Head of the Valley: Isterdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_193f">A Bridal Party crossing the Fjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_194f">The Bride’s Return by Water</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_198f">Return from the Christening</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl smcap"><a href="#i_200f">Their “only one”</a></td>
+      </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span></p>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <div class="center large mt5">ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.</div>
+
+  <table summary="Contents">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_003">Tyssestrængene Fos</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_007">Christiansand</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_012">Christiania</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_019">Hour Glasses</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_020">Norwegian Carved Lintels</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_021">Carved House in Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_022">Carved Houses, Bru, Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_025">The Raft Boat: Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_028">Porch at Hitterdal: Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_029">Chair in Hitterdal Church</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_036">Smoking the Cows: Thelemarken</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_037">The Mangletræ</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_042">Seljestad</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_044">Odde: Hardanger</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_046">Odde: Hardanger</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_048">Buerbræ Glacier</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_049">The Spring Dance: Hardanger</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_054">The Market: Bergen</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_055">Rosendal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_062">Church Candlestand: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_063">Knife-stone on Bronze Belt: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_064">Hard Schist Implements: North Cape</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_065a">Sword and Bracelet: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_065c">Rowlock Knot of Birch-stones and Viking Rowlock</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_066">Sword Handle: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_067">Arrow Heads and Sword Handle: Bergen Museum</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_076">Ousen</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_077">The Island of Alden</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_078">Nordfjord Peasants</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_080">Norwegian Plough</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_082">The Lych Gate, Nordfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_086">The Pass: Moldestadt</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_087">Postman and his Carriole</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_088">The Saw-Mill: Udvig</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_089">Faleidet: Nordfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_090">The Olden River</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_091">Lyth Fishing</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_094">Haugen, near Hellesylt</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_095">The Horningdalskrakken, near Haugen</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_097">Breen-stok, or Bucket for Sharpening Stone</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_102">The Landing-place: Molde</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_103">Molde, from above the Town</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_104">Sea Warehouse: Molde</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_105">The Flower Market: Molde</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_106">The Churchyard: Molde</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_108">The Coast Inspector</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_111">Carriole crossing a River</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_112">Næss</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_114">Ole Larsen, our Shoemaker</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_116">The Farm at Aak</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_120">Meal House: Fiva, Romsdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_121">The Laave at Fiva: Romsdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_122">Rauma River Boat</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_123">Sheep Boy’s Horn</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_127">Shipping a Carriole</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_128">Grave-board, Mølmen Churchyard</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_131">A Norwegian Salmon Stage</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_132">Hardanger</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_137">Powder Flask, &amp;c.</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_139">Snow Plough</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_142">Snow Pass: Thorbvu</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_144">After Sport</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_145">An Anxious Moment</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_146">Thorbvu: Encamping</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_147">Easing down the Patriarch</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_148">The Gralloch</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_149">Maritz Sæter</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_152">A Friend in Need</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_153">The Eagle’s Nest</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_154">Reindeer Head</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_155">Red Deer Head</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_159">Worm Box</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_160">Fresh Fish al Fresco</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_162">Casting</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_163">A Good Beginning</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_166">Wool Holder</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_168">Reeb Holder</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_170">Eikesdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_176">Looking across Indfjord</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_177">The Halt at Griseth</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_184">Spinning in the Sæter: Isterdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_186">Melting Glacier over Valdal</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_187">Church Axe</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_192">Bridal Crown</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_193">The Wedding</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_194">Drinking Horn</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_196">Before the Wedding</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_197">The Arrival at Home</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_198">Hitterdal Church</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_199">The Funeral: Bergen</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_200">The Stolkjær and Boat</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_203">Sledging</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_204">The Gentle Reproof</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_208">Stabur and Wooden Tankards</a></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><a href="#i_210">Costume of Lutheran Priest of Norway</a></td>
+      </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHRISTIANSAND_AND_CHRISTIANIA">I.<br />CHRISTIANSAND AND CHRISTIANIA.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    GAMLE NORGE&mdash;AN EARLY MURRAY&mdash;UNEXPLORED STATE OF THE
+    COUNTRY&mdash;THE PIONEERS OF SPORT&mdash;CROSSING THE NORTH
+    SEA&mdash;NOT THEN AS NOW&mdash;CONTENT OF THE PEASANTS&mdash;CHARM OF
+    THE FJELD&mdash;CHRISTIANSAND&mdash;CHRISTIANIA&mdash;THE EMIGRANT’S
+    VICISSITUDES&mdash;THE VICTORIA HOTEL AND OSCAR HALL.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img xsmall illow25" id="i_003"><img src="images/i_003.jpg" alt="F" /><br />
+      <i>Tyssestrængene Fos.</i></span>OR
+    comparatively few years has Norway received any attention from
+    the travelling public. The beauty and grandeur of the country and the
+    simple habits of the people were known to but few, and only heard of
+    occasionally from some energetic salmon fisher who preferred outdoor
+    life, good sport, plain food, and vigorous health to the constant
+    whirl of advanced civilisation, busy cities, over-crowded <i lang="fr">soirées</i>,
+    high-pressure dinners, and the general hurry-skurry of modern life.
+    The words “Gamle Norge,” or old Norway, while exciting the greatest
+    enthusiasm in Norway itself, rejoice the heart not only of many an
+    Englishman who has become practically acquainted with its charms,
+    but of those who, having heard of them, long to go and judge for
+    themselves. Nor is the expression of modern introduction; it was
+    evidently well known in the sixteenth century, as our immortal bard
+    alludes to it in <cite>Hamlet</cite>.</p>
+
+  <p>Forty-five years ago Norway and its salmon fisheries were unknown
+    luxuries. Even as late as 1839 Murray published a post-octavo Handbook<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span>
+    for Travellers in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, in the preface to which
+    occur the subjoined passages:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <p>“The principal object of the following pages is to afford such of my
+    travelling countrymen as are disposed to quit the more beaten paths
+    of Southern Europe, and explore the less known, but equally romantic,
+    regions of the north, some useful information as to time and distance,
+    which at present they can only obtain by time and experience. Beyond
+    Hamburg all is unknown land; no guide-book contains any account of the
+    Baltic steamboats, still less of the means of travelling, either by
+    land or water, in the more distant lands of Norway and Sweden. At the
+    steam-packet offices in London you may learn that an English steamer
+    sails three times a month from Lubec to Stockholm, but no further
+    information can be obtained.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“Unless the weather is unusually stormy, and the passage of the
+    vessel has consequently been delayed, the steamer remains in the
+    outer harbour, called Klippen, for four or five hours; enabling the
+    passengers who are going straight to Norway to inspect the city,
+    which is well worth seeing. A miniature steamboat, the smallest I
+    have ever seen, conveys you from the quay, at which the larger vessel
+    remains moored, up the long harbour to the town itself, the journey
+    occupying about half-an-hour. In the afternoon the <cite>Constitution</cite>
+    continues her voyage, stretching much further out to sea, in crossing
+    the Skager Rack, until, at an early hour the next morning, you reach
+    Frederiksværn, the principal arsenal of Norway, situated at the
+    entrance of the winding fjord of Christiania. From this place a smaller
+    coasting steamboat conveys the passengers to Christiania, touching, in
+    its passage up the Christiania fjord, at the various small towns and
+    villages on either shore.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“Steam vessels have for the last two or three years plied between
+    Christiania and Frederiksværn and Bergen, but their times of leaving
+    have hitherto been very irregular; beyond Bergen I am not aware that
+    any regular communication has hitherto been projected.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p>
+
+  <p>“No traveller has any business to intrude among the mountain fastnesses
+    of Norway, unless he can not only endure a fair proportion of bodily
+    fatigue, but can likewise put up with accommodations of the coarsest
+    description. As far as Christiania this, of course, does not apply: the
+    transport thither is by a comfortable steamboat, and the Hôtel du Nord
+    sufficiently good to satisfy any man; but when you attempt to penetrate
+    into the bowels of the land the case is different.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“The Norsemen are strict Lutherans; scarcely an individual is to be
+    met with professing any other creed, and no place of worship of any
+    other kind exists in Norway. No Jew is allowed to set foot in Norway&mdash;a
+    strange law in this free country. It has often struck me as a curious
+    anomaly, that in the free cities of the Continent these unhappy
+    outcasts were far worse treated than under many despotic governments.
+    Commercial jealousy in a great measure accounts for this enmity in a
+    city of merchants, but in a poor and thinly-populated country like
+    Norway this motive could have no weight. I have been unable to learn
+    from what cause the exclusion originated, though it is said to have
+    originated from some idle fear that they would possess themselves of
+    the produce of the silver mines at Kongsberg; but it is certainly a
+    most startling fact that the freest people on earth should cling with
+    such watchful jealousy to one of the most illiberal and inhuman laws
+    that can be conceived.”</p>
+
+  <p>Soon after this our real sport-lovers began to discover the charms of
+    Norway, Sir Hyde Parker, Sir Richard Sutton, and Lionel James leading
+    the van; and within the space of forty years the transition has taken
+    place from free fishing and shooting to the Scotch system of letting
+    moors&mdash;a state of things that would astonish Forrester and Biddulph,
+    whose work on Norway has now become historical and of the greatest
+    interest. Forrester begins thus (<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1834):&mdash;“Eight days in
+    the North Sea, beating against foul winds, or, which was still worse,
+    becalmed amongst fleets of Dutch fishing-boats, and ending in a regular
+    gale of wind, which was worst of all, prepared us to hail the sight
+    of land, and that of the coast of Norway.” This passage was made in a
+    little Norwegian schooner, bound from Gravesend to the south of Norway.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></p>
+
+  <p>How different is it now! Thanks to Messrs. Wilson, steamers take us
+    thither almost to the hour, unless, indeed, the clerk of the weather
+    should connive with old Neptune to teach us a lesson, by reminding us
+    that the elements are not yet to be ordered about entirely as we like.
+    English visitors commenced about 1824; Lord Lothian, Lord Clanwilliam,
+    and Lord H. Kerr, 1827; Marquis of Hastings, 1829; and in 1830 we
+    have Elliott’s account of Norway. Those were early days, when the
+    <i lang="nn">bönder</i> were astonished, and could hardly believe their own eyes, when
+    Englishmen went down with a piece of thread and a kind of coach-whip
+    to kill a salmon of thirty pounds; or, again, when the first flying
+    shot opened a new world to them. Those were the times when members of
+    the Storthing (or Parliament) appeared in the costume of their own
+    district, with belts, tolle-knives, &amp;c. They were not so eager to grasp
+    at civilisation as the Japanese, who simultaneously took to elastic
+    boots, tall black hats, and the English language within a year. No;
+    they are a contented people, with no desire for change, or to have it
+    thrust upon them, until they discover that they can make money of the
+    delighted foreigner, who, elevated by the grandeur of the mountain
+    scenery, grows more warm-hearted, kind, and generous than ever. Then
+    the Norseman becomes rabid and exacting; but the provinces (thank
+    Heaven!) still preserve their primitive simplicity.</p>
+
+  <p>Let us, then, hasten to these happy hunting-grounds. The fjeld life
+    will blow all the smoke out of us, and if we love nature we can store
+    up health and purity of thought, and bring back concentrated food for
+    happy reflection, should we be spared to a good old age. How such
+    reminiscences will then come out, brightened by the fact that all the
+    petty <i lang="fr">désagréments</i> of travel have been forgotten as they receded
+    in the past! We need not enlarge on the pleasures of anticipation,
+    the punctual meeting at the railway station, the satisfaction of
+    knowing that nothing has been omitted or left behind&mdash;a congratulation
+    sometimes a little blighted by the discovery that some one, after
+    ransacking everything, cannot find his breech-loader or cartridge
+    cases, or that some one else has left his pet “butchers” or “blue
+    doctors” on his dressing-table. Should such mischances occur, they
+    are soon dissipated in the general<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span> atmosphere of enjoyment and
+    anticipation, assisted by the thought that it is of no use losing
+    one’s temper, as it is sure to be found again, and the temporary loss
+    of it grieves one’s friends unnecessarily, to say nothing of personal
+    discomfort. Happy thought&mdash;always leave your ill-temper at home; or,
+    better still, do not have one: it is not a home comfort.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_007">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_007.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Christiansand.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The first port touched <i lang="fr">en route</i> for the capital of Norway is
+    Christiansand, which is snugly hidden in the extreme south of the
+    district of Sætersdalen&mdash;that land of eccentricity in costume and
+    quaintness of habitation, of short waists and long trousers reaching to
+    the shoulders, above which come the shallow, baby-looking jackets. With
+    what zest does one strain for the first peep at a seaport of a foreign
+    land! What value is attached to the earliest indication of varying
+    costume, or even a new form of chimney! The steamer from Hull generally
+    arrives at Christiansand on Sunday, when it is looking its neatest, the
+    white tower of the church shining over the wooden houses of the town,
+    the Norwegian shipping all in repose, with the exception, perhaps, of
+    the heavy, compressed, Noah’s ark kind of dumpy barges, or a customs’
+    gig containing some official. As we looked up at the church tower we
+    could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> not but wonder if we should hear, during our short visit, the
+    whistle of the “Vægter;” for tradition says that, for the protection
+    of the place, a watchman is always on the look-out, ready to give the
+    alarm should a fire break out in the town, which, being built almost
+    entirely of wood, would soon be reduced to a heap of ashes. But no; we
+    heard no whistle, not even a rehearsal. <i lang="nn">On dit</i> that for three hundred
+    years has the Vægter looked out afar, and no alarum has issued from the
+    tower. Christiansand has been mercifully preserved from fire, and long
+    may it be so!</p>
+
+  <p>During the passage over a friend told me of a Norwegian he once met
+    on board. He was a Christiansander. The Norseman was in high glee,
+    and, having entered into conversation with my friend, soon proposed a
+    <i lang="nn">skaal</i> (health). This achieved, the story of the Norseman began to
+    run rapidly off the reel, and it is so characteristic of the people
+    that we cannot do better than repeat it here. Born at Christiansand,
+    at the age of sixteen Lars became restless, wanted to see America, and
+    make his way in life, for which there was not much scope in the small
+    seaport. Lars’s father and mother were then living, with one daughter,
+    who would take care of them whilst he started for the battle-field
+    of life. He therefore determined to go. On his arrival in America he
+    had a terrible struggle for existence, there being so many emigrants
+    of all nations and classes. After patient endurance he began to get
+    on, and saved sufficient to go to Chicago and California. During this
+    time of trial how he thought about the chimes from the old white
+    tower, the Vægter, and the fair-haired sister he had left behind, and
+    wondered if all were well with the old people! At San Francisco he
+    did pretty well for some time; but hearing one day that at Yokohama,
+    in Japan, there was a good opening for a supply of butter (<i lang="nn">smör</i>),
+    his Norske associations were aroused, and his thoughts ran back to
+    <i lang="nn">sæters</i>, <i lang="nn">piger</i>, cows, cream, and green pastures. That was the thing
+    for Lars. So off he started for Yokohama, and having established a
+    lucrative butter business, he determined to write home and send some
+    money to his father and mother. This was a great pleasure to the
+    kind-hearted fellow, while their answer assured him of the joy of those
+    whom he had left behind on hearing of his safety and success, and
+    receiving such a token of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span> filial love. But the associations of home
+    and childhood are strong, and it was not long before he experienced
+    a desire to return. At length, however, he decided on developing the
+    butter trade still further, and then, having a good offer to go back
+    to San Francisco, he sold the whole business and good-will for a good
+    round sum, and started on a new career, which this time took the form
+    of brewing. How Norwegian! what national items!&mdash;butter (<i lang="nn">smör</i>) and
+    ale (<i lang="nn">öl</i>). Again Lars was successful, and derived much comfort from
+    the fact that he was thereby enabled to enhance the home happiness at
+    Christiansand. Happy the son who comforts a father! Happy the paternal
+    old age cherished by a son’s love! Beer, or rather ale, became the
+    basis of a lucrative business. Lars, however, speedily discovered that
+    bottled ale was the leading article to make the concern pay largely.
+    But bottles were the difficulty; they were expensive items, and not
+    manufactured in San Francisco. Lars often thought over this problem,
+    which his partner, likewise, was unable to solve. Luckily one evening
+    the good Norseman&mdash;he must have been indulging in a quiet pipe&mdash;had
+    a happy thought. While musing over his early days the bottle-makers
+    of Christiansand passed before him. He at once decided on making
+    arrangements for visiting the old seaport, and, having seen those
+    most dear to him on earth, to bring a bottle manufacturer back with
+    him, thus combining business with pleasure. This is the yarn he told
+    my friend, and when they entered the harbour poor Lars’s anxiety was
+    intense. He had telegraphed to say that he was coming, and expected
+    some one to meet and welcome him. During his absence he had heard
+    that his sister had married happily, and that the son-in-law was very
+    kind to his father; so Lars’s mind was set at rest. A boat neared the
+    steamer, in the stern-sheets of which sat an aged man, a fair-haired
+    Norseman rowing him. The old man was Lars’s father, who was soon on
+    deck looking round, but he could not see his boy. At last, however, he
+    spied him, and, throwing his arms round his neck, was fairly overcome
+    with joy. On recovering, the old gentleman began a good flow of Norske,
+    when poor Lars for the first time realised how long he had been away;
+    for, like the Claimant, he could not remember his native language, and
+    it was some time before either of them thought of landing. Meanwhile,
+    we heartily<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> wish the good Lars increased success. May his bottles be
+    manufactured on the spot, and his good <i lang="nn">öl</i> cheer the heart without
+    muddling the brain!</p>
+
+  <p>When <em>we</em> entered Christiansand <em>we</em> also looked out for a boat; for Hans
+    Luther Jordhoy had come down from Gudbransdalen to meet us, and was
+    soon on board. A closely knit frame, fair beard, moderate stature,
+    and kindly eye&mdash;there stood our future companion before us. Our first
+    impressions were never disturbed; he had very good points, and has
+    afforded us many pleasing associations in connection with our visit to
+    Norge.</p>
+
+  <p>As we steamed out of the harbour of Christiansand we met a passenger
+    coast steamer coming in&mdash;one of those innumerable small screw steamers
+    which run in and out of every fjord from Cape Lindesnæs to the North
+    Cape. Are their names not written in <cite>Norges Communicationer</cite>, the
+    Norwegian <cite>Bradshaw</cite>? The kindly feeling of the Norwegians towards the
+    English was at once manifest, for no sooner did the brass band on board
+    the excursion boat recognise our nationality than it struck up “God
+    save the Queen.” We quite regretted that we had no band to return the
+    compliment, and the only thing left for us was to give them a hearty
+    cheer.</p>
+
+  <p>This done, we started on our run to Christiania, with comparatively
+    smooth water, a lovely evening, a prolonged <i lang="la">crepusculum</i>, and,
+    late in the evening, a sweet little French song, sung with the most
+    delightful simplicity by a lady. “Petites Fleurs des Bois” is indelibly
+    impressed on the mind of the Patriarch. When it afterwards became known
+    that we were indebted to an English bride for such a treat&mdash;which
+    it really was&mdash;the bachelors whispered “A happy bond of union!” but
+    considered, at the same time, that Norwegian travelling was scarcely
+    made on purpose for honeymooning. Take carrioles, for instance, or the
+    jolting <i lang="nn">stolkjærre</i>, in which the bride might sometimes find herself
+    unceremoniously thrown into the lap of the bridegroom, or <i lang="la">vice versâ</i>.
+    No; unless the lady is familiar with the manners, customs, and petty
+    inconveniences attendant on travelling in Norway, that country will not
+    prove the happy hunting-ground for honeymoons. </p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_011f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_011f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Courtyard, Victoria Hotel, Christiania.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_011f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span></p>
+
+  <p>The whole of the Christiania fjord is both grand and immense. A
+    decided flutter takes place on board when the town is in sight, and
+    preparations are made for disembarkation. Hans Luther had by this
+    time made a personal acquaintance with our luggage, and went to the
+    Custom House, whither we were soon sent for. Among our possessions
+    were discovered certain condiments and preserved provisions unknown to
+    the officials, one item especially&mdash;pea soup in powder. On our arrival
+    we suggested that the unusual product should be tasted. To this the
+    official at first demurred, but ultimately yielded. Unfortunately,
+    at the very moment of putting the powder to his lips, he drew a long
+    breath, which sent the dry powdered pea soup down the wrong way.
+    However, after a time he recovered, when doubtlessly he registered a
+    mental vow never, never again to taste any foreign importation.</p>
+
+  <p>We were soon at the Victoria Hotel, with its quaint courtyard, with
+    galleries running round it, excessively tame pigeons hopping and
+    perching on all sides, and a reindeer head nailed to the woodwork.
+    During the tourist season a large marquee is erected in the centre of
+    this courtyard for <i lang="fr">tables d’hôte</i> and extra meals. In the meantime we
+    hurried to our rooms, longing to be out in a boat for a general view of
+    the city. A few extras were, however, requisite before starting in real
+    earnest, amongst which were two rifle slings. These had to be made,
+    and are referred to here because they were the means of initiating us
+    into one of the customs of the place. The leather slings were well
+    made, but the price was most <i lang="nn">tolky</i> (exorbitant). This led to a mild
+    remonstrance, upon which the saddler wrote us a remarkable letter,
+    which it is a pity we cannot present <i lang="la">verbatim</i>. It was to the effect
+    that the saddler was happy to serve us well, but thinking we were
+    English gentlemen, he imagined we should prefer giving English prices.
+    However, if we merely wished to pay in accordance with the Norwegian
+    tariff, it would only be so much, which was precisely the amount we did
+    pay.</p>
+
+  <p>Christiania has a population of about seventy thousand, and owes
+    its modern appearance to the destruction of the old town by fire.
+    Nowadays the suburbs extend widely all round it, while to the westward
+    villas reach almost to Oscar’s Hall, an object of interest distinctly
+    visible both from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> the town and the fortress, being only about four
+    miles distant by land, and half that amount by water. The villa,
+    with its high tower, is the property of the King, and is rich in the
+    native talent of Tidemand, who was the national genre painter of his
+    day. There are magnificent views of the fjord, bay, and surrounding
+    mountains from all points, whether high or low, from the fortress or
+    from the Egeberg, from the tower of the church in the market-place,
+    or, farther off, from the Frogner Sæter and the Skougemsaas. For the
+    latter, however, a long day should be taken.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_012">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_012.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Christiania.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>To visit Oscar’s Hall the most pleasant way is to take a boat and row
+    across. This was suggested by Hans, and we were glad to find that
+    he took kindly to boat work, as he came from Gudbransdalen, which
+    is inland. More pleased, however, were we to discover, when about
+    half-way across, that Hans was gradually bursting out into song,
+    singing in a clear voice one of Kjerulf’s sweetest compositions,
+    which we give in part at the end of the chapter. There is a plaintive
+    sweetness throughout it, and the beauty of the evening, coupled with
+    the surprise, caused us to anticipate <span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>many future repetitions, as
+    nothing, when travelling, is more humanising and soothing than vocal or
+    instrumental music.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_013f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_013f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Timber Shoot.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_013f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The University, the Storthing, museums, and Mr. Bennett have already
+    been frequently described: still just one word. Every Englishman is
+    received by Mr. Bennett, who carries out his slightest wish. We only
+    called to see him, and get some <i lang="nn">smaapenge</i>; for if we had not, no one
+    would have believed that we had been to Norway. Before the country
+    was well opened Mr. Bennett must have been of the greatest service to
+    visitors.</p>
+
+  <p>During our very short stay we had an excellent opportunity of judging
+    of the character of the people when collected in masses. There were
+    to be a great procession of guilds and all kinds of things at the New
+    Palace. These we attended, and very gratified we were to find how
+    orderly the good folk were; how quiet, and yet with what a sense of
+    comfortable enjoyment, if we may use the term; no excitement, but a
+    cheerful interest in all that was going on; no crushing, no rush of
+    roughs. If such were the case in large towns, we considered it augured
+    well for the provinces.</p>
+
+  <p>Between Christiania and Kongsberg much timber is seen wending its way
+    down to the fjord. An instance of a <em>timber jam</em> after a shoot is
+    given in the accompanying illustration. Sometimes trees are torn away
+    at flood-time. The regular timber is duly marked and started, and at
+    certain periods of the year persons follow the course of the river for
+    the purpose of releasing the <em>jams</em> and helping the timber on its way
+    to Drammen, where it is shipped for all parts of the world.</p>
+
+  <p class="mb5">Little is said here of the cities of Christiania, Bergen, and
+    Trondhjem, as our path lies in the open, the fjeld life, <i lang="nn">sæters</i>,
+    peasants, and sport. Our delight is to live out of the present century
+    in fresh air and simplicity, where trolds might cross our path, where
+    we might see the lovely Huldre, the beauty who had the unfortunate
+    appendage of a cow’s tail, which, when exposed to view, was the signal
+    for her to vanish into thin air, or where Odin and Thor had had great
+    <i lang="nn">jagt</i>, and killed bears, elks, gluttons, and wolves. The scenes we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span>
+    longed for were those in which pagan rites had been carried out with
+    all the grandeur of mighty warriors and priests worthy of Valhalla;
+    wherein Vikings, after deeds of valour, were laid low, and buried with
+    great solemnity and becoming pomp in their own war vessels, with their
+    treasure, their arms, and their hunting-gear about them, waiting for
+    the call to glory.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100">
+    <div class="mt10"><span class="mlarge">INGRIDS VISE.</span><br />RENDYR CHORUS.</div>
+    <div class="attl">Music by <span class="smcap">H. Kjerulf</span>.</div>
+    <div class="attr">Words by <span class="smcap">Bjørnson</span>.</div>
+    <img class="w100" src="images/music_14-15.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="center-container">
+    <div class="poetry">
+      <div class="stanza">
+        <div class="i0">Og Ræ-ven laa under Birke-rod bortved Lyn-get, bortved</div>
+        <div class="i0">Lyn-get, og Haren hoppede paa lette Fod o-ver Lyn-get, o-ver Lyn-get. “Det</div>
+        <div class="i0">er vel no-get til Sol-skins dag! det glitt-rer for og det</div>
+        <div class="i0">glitt-rer bag over Lyn-get, over Lyn-get!”</div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <div class="center mt2 mb2 epub-hide"><a href="music/ingrids_vise.midi">[Listen]</a></div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="THELEMARKEN">II.<br />THELEMARKEN.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    LYSTHUS&mdash;COMPONENT PARTS OF TRAVEL&mdash;HITTERDAL CHURCH&mdash;THE
+    CHAIR&mdash;THE CAMP AT SKEJE&mdash;FLATDAL&mdash;RELICS OF THE PAST&mdash;THE
+    ASTONISHED MAGPIE AND UNKNOWN MUSIC&mdash;THE COSTUMES OF
+    THELEMARKEN&mdash;THE “HULDRE”&mdash;THE BEAUTIFUL TROLD&mdash;BERGE AND
+    THE MANGLETRÆ&mdash;MOGEN&mdash;THE PLOUGH, REIN HORNS, AND SNOW
+    SHOES&mdash;BOCKLEY AND PUKKINGS&mdash;BLACK-BROWN BEER&mdash;JAMSGAARD&mdash;A
+    NIGHT IN THE LAAVE&mdash;CAMP BEDS AND HAMMOCK&mdash;BOTTEN&mdash;NEW
+    ROAD-MAKING&mdash;WEIRD SCOTCH FIRS&mdash;A BLASTED FOREST.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25" id="i_019"><img src="images/i_019.jpg" alt="T" /></span>HELEMARKEN
+    is a large district, lying in the south-east of Norway,
+    north of Sætersdalen, which is the most southern part of the kingdom.
+    It is characterized by forest, costume, and wood-carving, the latter
+    being applied on a large scale to the external decoration of houses,
+    and especially to the storehouse, which is always a separate building
+    of one story, and locally called the <i lang="nn">stabur</i>. On the exterior of
+    this structure is lavished all the carving talent and energy of the
+    proprietor and his friends; while inside will be found good old
+    coffers, containing the silver and the tankards, the brooches and
+    the bridal crown, which is handed down from generation to generation
+    amongst the <i lang="nn">bönder</i>, or farmers. A public parochial crown is sometimes
+    to be heard of, and may be seen at the lawyer’s, for that profession is
+    known in Norway; and, when litigation commences, it is impossible to
+    guess the time over which it may extend. But to return to wood-carving,
+    so important a feature in the dwellings of the inhabitants of this
+    part.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> A fine specimen of carved lintel, or side-post, is in existence
+    near Lysthus, displaying wonderful solidity, and a flowing Runic design
+    extremely difficult to copy. How was it originated? What was the
+    <i lang="fr">motif</i> of the design? After making a careful study of it, it appears
+    to be the result of “eyes”&mdash;generally associated without hooks&mdash;being
+    kept to themselves, and interlaced, one following the other. On trying
+    this, it was found to be practicable and most successful. Talking
+    over this glorious old work with the good housewife, she called her
+    husband, who went off to the <i lang="nn">stabur</i>, and, quickly returning, told me
+    there was a very old and handsome pair of these lintels lying under
+    the “provision house,” and begged me to accept them in recollection of
+    my visit, and take them back<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> to my own home, that they might give me
+    pleasure there. Great was my wish to accept them, but the difficulty of
+    transit soon flashed across my mind. Our route lay over the Haukelid,
+    with hours of snow&mdash;ponies sinking in, and perhaps through. So the
+    transit being impossible, I tendered my thanks for the kindly offer. It
+    was with much regret that I did so, but what could be done hundreds of
+    miles from home, and just starting over the roughest mountain tracts
+    to the north-west of Norway? Nothing but a grateful negative, and a
+    suggestion that they should be given to the next nice young couple who
+    were starting housekeeping. The principal carving, as we have already
+    observed, is lavished on the storehouses; and as soon as a loving
+    couple are engaged, the man begins to build his nest, with nothing much
+    but his axe for strong work and a knife for ornamentation. The latter
+    instrument is most adroitly used by the peasants, cutting all sweeping
+    curves, with the left-hand thumb used as a lever. The house-building
+    is characterized by large timbers squared, afterwards calked with
+    moss, and the ends crossing. As will be hereafter shown, the timbers
+    are generally numbered externally up to twelve, so that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> they may be
+    easily rebuilt should occasion arise to remove the house elsewhere.
+    Looking at these immense solid timbers, what a contrast they present to
+    modern work; how like their sturdy forefathers, who worked so solidly;
+    how unlike the feather-edged boarding of the new half-civilised houses
+    which are now being introduced near towns, and are flimsiness itself,
+    and only carpenter’s shoddy!</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_020">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Norwegian Carved Lintels.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_021">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Carved House in Thelemarken.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Kongsberg is a city of rushing waters, or rather a small town; and
+    approaching it is suggestive of proximity to a seltzer-water bottle
+    with the cork partially out. The river rushes, splutters, fumes,
+    foams, and steams; huge sticks, fir poles, and stems battling their
+    way down the broken waters to Drammen, preparatory to their being
+    shipped for the warmer and drier sphere of civilisation and circular
+    saws. Some three English miles below Kongsberg is the Labro Fos, which
+    is very interesting, and well worth visiting, inasmuch as it affords
+    an admirable opportunity of seeing the timber shoot the Fos&mdash;large
+    fir-stems sometimes coming clean over the fall into the roar below.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_022">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_022.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Carved Houses, Bru, Thelemarken.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Kongsberg is a centre of interest, as close by are found the silver
+    mines which have for ages supplied the raw material for the <i lang="nn">gamle
+    sölv</i>, such as silver crowns, belts, cups, tankards, and all the
+    endless <span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>variety of ornament for which Gamle Norge has been, and is,
+    so famous. However, we will not now enter into this subject, but will
+    merely mention that interesting specimens of this class of work are to
+    be found in England, souvenirs of travel which are highly prized by the
+    happy possessors and their friends also. The silver is not considered
+    very pure, but the old designs are very grand and admirable. The modern
+    specimens, and especially those in filigree, are far inferior, being
+    poor in design and unsubstantial.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_023f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_023f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Kongsberg: Thelemarken.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_023f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Forests are most typical of Thelemarken, and very suggestive of bears
+    in winter, a season much more severe here than in some other parts
+    of Norway, as the district is away east, beyond the influence of
+    the gulf-stream. It is a curious fact that directly an Englishman
+    arrives in Thelemarken everybody seems to have seen bears, or, to be
+    more precise, to have had visions of bears. That there are bears is
+    certain. A sport-loving Oxonian last year was disappointed of a bear
+    in the north, and, coming south on his return to shoot blackcock, had
+    lighted his pipe and was walking quietly back when he saw a bear! He
+    was seventy yards off, and had only one cartridge. He fired. Bruin,
+    falling back on his haunches, put out his “embracers,” and rushed
+    forward for the “hug,” when he gave a roll and fell backwards&mdash;dead.
+    He was a splendid beast, judging from the skin. What a trophy to bring
+    home! “What luck!” some said. On his return, the fortunate hunter&mdash;who,
+    by-the bye, was a week later than he should have been&mdash;heard the
+    momentous words from his dear parent, “Well, sir, where is the bear you
+    went out to shoot in Norway?” “Have you not seen it? It’s in the hall.”
+    “Oh, my dear boy, I am so delighted&mdash;so glad! Come, let us have the
+    skin up here. Send for mamma. This is capital!” How much nicer it is
+    to bring home a bear-skin than to have to say, “Didn’t shoot one!” Who
+    does not know what zest there always is in success?</p>
+
+  <p>The costume of the district is worn in every-day life, by the farmers
+    as well as the peasants; in fact, the farmers, or <i lang="nn">bönder</i>, are very
+    proud of their dress. First and foremost is the typical white jacket,
+    with light blue facings and silver buttons; blue collars, blue pocket
+    flaps, with silver buttons also; the jacket turned well back, with a
+    light blue <i lang="fr">revers</i>, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> I think the ladies call it. But the great
+    characteristic of the jacket is not to be too long; the <i lang="nn">ton</i> only have
+    the back to come down just below the shoulder-blade; and, as the black
+    trousers rush up to meet the curtailed garment, one can imagine the
+    vast area of black trouser before arriving at the foot of the figure;
+    it really makes them all look out of drawing.</p>
+
+  <p>The women wear a chocolate-coloured handkerchief cleverly twisted round
+    the head and falling down the back, with the hair plaited; and well
+    they look with their fair hair and ribbons, their homespun or <i lang="nn">vadmel</i>
+    petticoats closely kilt-plaited, old silver brooches and studs, and
+    sometimes silk handkerchiefs as aprons, with coloured cinctures, the
+    bodice with dark ground and flowers, crewel-worked, in relief. Near
+    Lysthus the costume is nearly all blue, a kind of short frock-coat,
+    with dark blue trouser-gaiters, embroidered up the side with yellow and
+    scarlet; but this is not a successful phase of costume.</p>
+
+  <p>On Sunday every variety is seen, and the additional interest of lake
+    travelling is met with&mdash;namely, the raft boats, consisting of seven
+    stems of trees, the longest in the middle, the six cut shorter, like
+    organ pipes; midships a seat for one; while the oars are tied in with
+    green birch twigs with the leaves on. How suggestive of early lake
+    habitation, and yet how like a modern outrigger; for there is only room
+    for one and a <i lang="nn">fine</i>, or provision box, from which a Norwegian, male or
+    female, is inseparable.</p>
+
+  <p>The shortness of the jackets is shown in an illustration which
+    represents a custom peculiar to this part, namely, smoking the cows
+    (see <a href="#Page_36">p. 36</a>). Many travellers have complained of the flies in Norway,
+    and now even Norwegian cows object to them, and the farm folk, in
+    kindly sympathy, make fires of juniper, the smoke of which is unwelcome
+    to the mosquitoes. Into this smoke the cows are only too glad to go,
+    and being well flavoured with juniper, are ready to start forth for the
+    day, regardless of their little winged enemies. We speak from practical
+    experience when we add that the traveller likewise will be rather
+    benefited by participating in the process.</p>
+
+  <p>Here, perhaps, it would be as well to refer to the hour-glass under
+    the initial letter at the commencement of the chapter. It is composed
+    of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> brass, and placed by the side of the pulpit, which is opposite
+    to the King’s pew or box in the church at Kongsberg. There are four
+    hour-glasses&mdash;quarter, half, three-quarters, and hour; so the domine,
+    or minister, turns the glass before commencing his discourse, and the
+    congregation knows how long he will continue. At Tönsberg there is a
+    curious mural historical souvenir, consisting of the top of a stool let
+    into the wall, on which may be read the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p>“In the year 1589, being the 11th day of November, came the well-born
+      gentleman, Mr. Jacobus Stuart, King of Scotland: and the 25th Sunday
+      after Trinity, which was the 16th day of November, he sat on this stool
+      and heard a preaching from the 23rd Psalm, ‘The Lord is my Shepherd.’
+      Mr. David Lentz preached, and he preached between 10 and 12.”</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_025">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_025.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Raft Boat: Thelemarken.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>This “well-born gentleman” was evidently James the First of England and
+    Sixth of Scotland, who married Anne of Denmark, sister of Christian IV.</p>
+
+  <p>Leaving Lysthus, we settled down for steady travelling in that most<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>
+    delightful style, namely, with our tents and luggage, sometimes in
+    a <i lang="nn">stolkjær</i>, or country cart, sometimes with ponies only. Such
+    independence, such health-giving enjoyment, can hardly be obtained
+    under different circumstances. The travellers in this case were three,
+    happily organized in the following manner. They might for the nonce
+    be called Brown, Jones, and Robinson, as a tribute of respect to the
+    originals in the “Primer or Spelling Book,” published in 1790, where
+    those now world-known names are first found associated. Let us rather
+    go with the times, and number them&mdash;a treatment now general in hotels,
+    both at home and abroad.</p>
+
+  <p>So, to commence, No. 1 was the youngest, and unanimously elected
+    Paymaster-general. Polyglot in his knowledge of languages, he shone
+    when asked to explain: then came such volleys of Norske, German,
+    Danish, Swedish, French, Italian, all in one flowing Norskey catena,
+    that, if people did not understand them, they felt they ought to,
+    and acted accordingly. All this was carried out with the dash of a
+    Zouave, and garnished with a profound knowledge of music and brilliant
+    execution on the piano. How we longed sometimes for a pocket piano! No.
+    1’s great <i lang="fr">forte</i> was enthusiasm for fishing&mdash;trout, salmon, greyling,
+    and split-cane fly-rods. Tradition says that he has often in his
+    sleep talked of “blue doctors,” “large butchers,” and “black doses,”
+    these sounds having been heard in the small hours of the morning
+    zephyring from his tent with nasal accompaniments; but he was always
+    equal to the occasion, even when some one had landed with the luggage
+    by mistake. “Never mind, my dear boy; sure to find it; most honest,
+    charming people, these Norwegians&mdash;never lose anything.” Such were the
+    comforting words which emanated from No. 1 when he understood that No.
+    3 had lost his luggage; but when he found that it was his own a change
+    came over the spirit of his dream. The polyglot vocabulary was soon
+    launched, the fire of the Zouave flared up, a carriole was ordered,
+    and the pursuit commenced, which happily ended in the recovery of the
+    wandering impedimenta, when Richard became himself again.</p>
+
+  <p>No. 2 was Tentmaster-general, and a sportsman to the core. Reindeer,
+    salmon, and Gamle Norge&mdash;these he had chronically on the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>brain,
+    mixed up with a great love of old tankards and a yearning for silver
+    belts and <i lang="nn">gammelt sölv</i>. Once in his Norfolk jacket and knickers, <i lang="nn">pua
+    de höie fjelde</i>, how happy was he! rejoicing in the <i lang="nn">friske luft</i>,
+    mountain air, and snow peaks (<i lang="nn">snebræer</i>), ready for any amount of
+    fatigue, and always willing to cook first and eat afterwards. A rare
+    good man was the Tentmaster.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_027f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_027f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Hitterdal Church: Sunday Morning.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_027f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>No. 3 was generally known as “the Locust,” from his constant appetite
+    for all kinds of food, and general thirst for knowledge about
+    everything connected with Norway. Note-book in hand, he was ever
+    jotting down everything, even to catching mosquitoes between the leaves
+    of it, so as to bring home the real thing. Still No. 3 had an important
+    duty to perform. As the travellers were three, he was allowed the
+    casting vote&mdash;a most wholesome arrangement, as he was a married man,
+    and consequently likely to be useful in some weighty matters. Happily,
+    to the credit of No. 1 and No. 2, the exercise of No. 3’s prerogative
+    was never called for, and by the end of the trip was looked on as a
+    sinecure. Still he always travelled ready to apply “a touch of the
+    oil feather”&mdash;one of the best companions a traveller can have ready
+    to hand. May many such trios have a trip of such great yet simple
+    enjoyment, such health, and such pleasing diversion of thought! It is
+    a joy to fall back upon throughout life, and the longer the life the
+    greater the relish of recollection.</p>
+
+  <p>Hitterdal Church is one of the two wooden churches of which Norway
+    can boast, the other being that of Borgund. They are built of wood,
+    Byzantine-Gothic, <i>on dit</i>, but grotesque and pagodaist in form. The
+    old porches are grandly carved with serpents, dragons, and Runic
+    interlacings. The church itself at Hitterdal is nothing like so quaint
+    or picturesque as that at Borgund, neither is it so weird; still, its
+    early carving forms a noble monument to come down to us, and at once
+    draws forth the admiration, not only of the antiquarian, but of the
+    casual passer-by. The lintels at the entrance are especially beautiful.
+    The bell-tower is unusually detached, in this case being placed on
+    the other side of the highway. Unfortunately, time prevented a more
+    detailed sketch of the old chair or seat given on <a href="#Page_29">page 29</a>: it stands in
+    the church by the altar, and is considered episcopal, but the date is
+    most likely <i>circa</i> 900. What grand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> solidity of form! Vikingly to a
+    degree, and fit for Thor or Odin. There is a great air of majesty about
+    it.</p>
+
+  <p>The roof of the church is also of wood, carved in the same way as many
+    of the churches in Sussex, and covered with small wooden tiles, if
+    that term may be used to describe the process which in that county is
+    generally known as “shingling.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow60" id="i_028">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_028.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Porch at Hitterdal: Thelemarken.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The churchyard is very interesting, and the grave-boards have a
+    peculiar form worthy of notice; for this reason one is introduced
+    here. The shape of the upper part is that of a cross, but below come
+    up two horns, rising right and left. These horns have a kind of anchor
+    form; and what could be a more appropriate emblem in a country so<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span>
+    sea-bound as Norge? The blending of Faith and Hope is, I think, most
+    poetically suggested. Can we do better here than pay a tribute of
+    respect to the beautiful simplicity of the religious character of the
+    Norwegian peasantry? Their love of God and their reverence for religion
+    are refreshing, and offer a good lesson to many who rejoice in mere
+    flourish of external worship. We shall have occasion to refer to the
+    curious anomaly of Roman Catholic vestments continued in the present
+    day in the Lutheran service, but allusion may now be made to the happy
+    link which exists between the ministers and people. This is shown in
+    the character of the sermons, the whole tone of which seems to aim at
+    binding the parish together in Christian love and sympathy, bearing
+    each other’s burdens, caring for one another, and curbing self&mdash;the
+    most difficult of all tasks, as it comes nearest home, and is in itself
+    so antagonistic to the inclinations of human nature. The whole climate
+    rather tends to develop this frame of mind: there is a certain sedate
+    expression throughout the provinces; the long darkness of winter,
+    extending its influence even into the continuous light of the northern
+    summer, brings every one into close and constant proximity, whilst the
+    mountains isolate the valleys one from the other without any access.
+    Still, when the summer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> comes and the whole energy of vegetation
+    bursts out at once, how their gladdened hearts rejoice! They pluck
+    these outbursts of beauty and revived nature, and joyously take them
+    to the house of God&mdash;no mere form or ritual, but the wholesome outcome
+    of heartfelt, unsophisticated joy and gratitude for brightness after
+    lengthened gloom and months of pent-up feeling.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow46" id="i_029">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_029.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Chair in Hitterdal Church.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Leaving Hitterdal, we were off in earnest for the Hardanger, with
+    a grand country before us. The first night we pulled up at Skeje.
+    Before coming to our resting-place at the end of the lake, we noticed
+    the saw-mills and corn-mills (seven, one above the other); not that
+    torrents are scarce in Norway, but in this valley there was employment.
+    Arrived at Skeje, our Tentmaster having selected his spot, tents were
+    pitched, and everything put ship-shape for the night. The only milk we
+    could get was goat’s milk, and <i>fladbröd</i> in abundance. It is, perhaps,
+    superfluous to mention here that <i>fladbröd</i> can be made very toothsome
+    by drying it before the fire: the peasants keep it in a state ready for
+    travelling, with the means of folding it up so as not to be shaken into
+    dust by the jolting of the <i>stolkjær</i>, which certainly would be the
+    case had it been fit for eating. The smoke of our fire had gone up, and
+    after our meal and a chat with our neighbours we turned in. A strange
+    dog came into the Patriarch’s tent, and eventually curled himself up
+    for the night, and, as a mark of gratitude for welcome, woke him in the
+    morning by licking his face.</p>
+
+  <p>Next day brought us on to Flatdal. Looking over that grand, deep
+    valley, we halted awhile at a picturesque wooden house: we asked
+    for milk, which was brought forthwith, and it was goat’s milk. The
+    daughter, as it was Saturday afternoon, was engaged plaiting her two
+    long tails ready for the morrow. The good mother had a very fine
+    antique silver brooch, and the proprietor one also on his shirt-front,
+    and after we had drunk our milk they showed us their rooms, which
+    were most interesting, and dated very far back; for traces of the
+    fact presented themselves on all sides, especially in the harness and
+    elaborately carved horse-collars, which bore the crest of a lion’s
+    head on an escutcheon&mdash;evidently belonging to the days of aristocratic
+    Norway.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_031f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_031f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Flatdal: Thelemarken.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_031f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span></p>
+
+  <p>We had bivouacked on a green lawn near the village, close to a house
+    which was a carriole station. Our three tents were a novelty, and our
+    cooking at last brought a crowd around us; but we must say that the
+    people were most kindly and considerate towards us. They had never seen
+    such a thing before, and hated <i>fanter</i>, tinkers, and gipsies, which
+    nearly included all wanderers in tents: such latter were we.</p>
+
+  <p>Next we inspected the <em>loom</em>, where a daughter was hard at work. There
+    were a fine old bed, with inscription, and many spinning-wheels, highly
+    coloured (green, red, and blue and white, with black). It is a pity an
+    illustration of this room cannot be given in colour. We descended into
+    the <i>dal</i>: the heat was intense, no air below, and a pandemonium of
+    flies. Bathing under the wheel of a mill was a temporary relief: our
+    torment was renewed at lunch. But we were out to enjoy ourselves; so
+    we did, in spite of mosquitoes. At lunch we cooked some of the trout
+    our chief had killed <i>en route</i>, which that day numbered thirty. We
+    were immensely amused here by noticing the very comic and inquiring
+    expression in a magpie while listening, for the first time probably,
+    to the English snore with which one of our party favoured us on this
+    occasion, putting his head first on one side and then on the other,
+    then taking a hop, and, when the music broke into a staccato bass
+    passage, hopping back still more interested, until it finally flew
+    off. Magpies are the sacred birds of the land, and are regarded as the
+    private property of his Satanic Majesty.</p>
+
+  <p>After a long day and a mid-day meal, during which we were devoured by
+    mosquitoes until nothing was left of us but our monograms, we arrived
+    late in the evening in front of a farmhouse at Sillejord. It was
+    Saturday night, and no room in the house, but an open space close by,
+    most inviting for tents. In the twinkling of an eye the Tentmaster
+    issued his order, each man had his tent laid out, and up they went
+    simultaneously, to the astonishment of the natives. Was it a sort of
+    fair, only read of in books? Was it the first germ of the great Russian
+    fair of Nijni Novgorod? Was it one of the lost tribes of Israel come
+    down from the clouds? Or were we Germans, who, having already annexed
+    Denmark, had just run on with a message from Prince Bismarck to say
+    that Norway also was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> annexed? No; the peasants rather looked on at a
+    respectful distance, with a certain openness of mouth and absence of
+    expression. By this time, the tents being up, beds laid, saddle-bags
+    in places, and guns hung on tent-pole with telescope, food had to be
+    thought of, and the canteen business looked after. The canteen was well
+    organized and an old traveller&mdash;almost self-acting; so accustomed to
+    the names of Fortnum and Mason’s tinned soups, &amp;c., that the very words
+    “mock-turtle” made it burn and bristle up to a really good fire. That
+    night we had good lake trout; and how welcome, with our then appetites,
+    the mock-turtle! Three cheers for Fortnum and Mason! And then the
+    <i>mörbradsteg</i>! Some of our readers have never been introduced to those
+    satisfying and necessary pleasures of life; if not, let us explain.
+    <i>Mörbradsteg</i> and other good things in tins come from Stavanger in
+    Norway, which is great in potted meats, <i>ryper</i>, tins of all kinds of
+    preserved things, soups, lobsters, &amp;c., and these <i>mörbrader</i>. The
+    inquiring mind may ask, “But <i>mörbrader</i>&mdash;what is it? how made?” All
+    I can say is, that it was so good we thought we had no time to ask
+    what it was: perfect in flavour, solid in substance, very satisfying
+    to the most energetic of gastric juices, and wholesome. Three cheers,
+    therefore, for Stavanger! Then came wild strawberries, brought by dear
+    little children in costume, who had already begun to go through the
+    process of purification ready for Sunday, biscuits and Dutch cheese,
+    and a <i>skaal</i> for Gamle Norge. After this we followed the suggestion of
+    the good motto, “Rest and be thankful,” and then some hunters’ songs.</p>
+
+  <p>The following day (Sunday) was a curious scene; everybody came to
+    look at us. All the characteristics of national costume, as worn in
+    Thelemarken, were in full force. Let us first describe the <i>piger</i>,
+    or girls. They wear very short petticoats, and most becoming and
+    picturesque they are; dark blue stockings with lovely clocks, and
+    buckles on their shoes; the apron is embroidered with what now would be
+    called crewel patterns of flowers; while a little below the waist is a
+    rich many-coloured girdle, ending in knobs of tassels of the brightest
+    colours. The top of the petticoat is bound with a bright colour, and
+    shown, as the scarlet jacket, which is frequent in this district, is as
+    short as the men’s, coming only a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> little below the shoulder-blades.
+    Tucked inside the girdle is generally seen a rich silk handkerchief,
+    and in some cases two. The head-dress is another silk handkerchief, and
+    into the tail of the back hair more colour is worked. On week days they
+    wear large gaiters, like cloth trousers, which certainly attracted our
+    attention when first seen.</p>
+
+  <p>Now for the lads of the village. They are not one tittle behind
+    the girls in the pains they take as to their points, especially
+    these&mdash;shortness of jacket, length of trouser, and brightness of
+    colour. At Dabord they all adopted the shaven cheek, upper lip, and
+    chin. The jacket is generally white, very short, as in Sætersdalen,
+    just coming below the shoulder-blades: this curious garment is turned
+    back at the cuffs and <i>revers</i> with light blue, the effect being
+    heightened by silver buttons. The trousers are very curious&mdash;a fact
+    necessitated by the shortness of the superstructure. The expanse of
+    back is prodigious from the shoulder-blades downwards, they are wide in
+    the leg, and generally have a stripe down the side. The short coatee
+    affords a grand display of tolle-knives, the handles of which, in this
+    part, are generally made of <i>lom</i> (maple), smooth, and uncarved, and
+    deep in the sheath. In most cases they are suspended from a button, and
+    not from a belt; in fact, belts are not of very frequent occurrence
+    here. Skull-caps and hats are worn by the men, and the richest farmers
+    maintain the national costume of the district. In some few instances
+    for weddings the white jacket is daintily touched up with a little
+    worked flower here and there on the edge and corner, which gives great
+    finish. The clocks on the men’s stockings are very rich: these are worn
+    on fête days with breeches, which are worked in red and white round
+    the buttons and up the seams. The garters are always objects of great
+    taste and careful arrangement. It is when the holiday costumes are worn
+    that the beautiful and mysterious Huldre appears, generally frequenting
+    the mountains and forests, but sometimes joining in the festive dances
+    of the mountaineers. When she vouchsafes this favour every young
+    <i>bonde</i> is eager to dance with her&mdash;the handsome strange girl with the
+    blue petticoat, and white handkerchief over her head. Tradition does
+    not enlighten us much about this beauty, and the story of her sudden
+    disappearance immediately her cow-tail is discovered is cruel.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>
+    Why does she come to Thelemarken, where the skirts are so short, sometimes
+    only reaching the knee? If she be so fond of dancing, why not frequent
+    country balls? Or she would be safer with a train of the present
+    fashion; even if that were trodden on, her tail would be safe. Having
+    noticed the general costume, let us enjoy the day of rest.</p>
+
+  <p>The brightness of the morning favoured our <i>al fresco</i> toilets, and
+    one of our party (who carried a dressing-case full of wonderful
+    things, and generally known in the list of impedimenta as “Somebody’s
+    luggage”) became the centre of attraction. In front of his tent were
+    laid out a waterproof sheet and a saddle-bag, partially opened and
+    supported at the back; the latter sustained the looking-glass, in
+    front of which knelt a figure shaving (No. 1). Now, although the
+    Norwegians shave almost universally, there was something about our
+    friend’s manipulations which took the fancy of all present. The girls
+    giggled; the short ones tried to peep between the tall ones. Why? Did
+    the performer pull his own nose to a greater length than usual in this
+    country when he took the long sweep down his cheek? Hardly. The fact
+    was, the good folk thought the whole thing was but an overture to
+    some other performance, and that the dressing-case, with its numerous
+    silver-topped glass bottles, contained all kinds of medicines, panaceas
+    for everything&mdash;cures for gout, sciatica, tic douloureux, trichinæ
+    spirales, hypochondria, dipsomania, and every other mania.</p>
+
+  <p>After the shaving came a pause. A fortunate inquiry for old silver
+    ornaments now changed the whole scene, and for the rest of the day, at
+    intervals, the <i>penates</i> of the neighbourhood were being brought for
+    our edification. Some of the old brooches were remarkably beautiful;
+    the rings were very characteristic, some having small pendant rings,
+    some with the usual cup ornaments; and when it was discovered that much
+    interest was taken in old costumes, we had really a treat&mdash;embroideries
+    on <i>vanter</i>, or winter gloves without fingers, eider-down cloaks,
+    swaddling-bands, babies’ caps, worked aprons, the open-work at the
+    lower part being admirable in design. A wish was expressed to see a
+    baby ready swaddled for baptism. Unhappily, there was no such thing
+    to be had within miles upon miles; but rather than “the Locust”
+    should be disappointed, these good people dressed up a woollen one,
+    which <span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>answered every purpose, and was considered a great success.
+    The kindness of the people was very striking; a certain shy curiosity
+    characterized their movements at first, but they soon settled down
+    to taking every possible pains to oblige us and meet our wants. It
+    seemed very odd, however, to see a church so near, and yet no service.
+    How was it, when we saw almost enough people to form a congregation?
+    It happened thus. The <i>præstegaard</i>, or clergyman’s house, is at the
+    central church, which often has two or three <i>annexer</i>&mdash;small churches,
+    each eighteen or twenty miles from the principal one; the services,
+    therefore, are only held about every third Sunday in each church.
+    Well educated, well read, and, much like the old fathers, revered
+    and well beloved by their flocks, the clergy lead a hard life. The
+    vast extent of their parishes or districts is very trying to their
+    health, necessitating long drives, and in winter much severe sledge
+    work; while on the coast there is such boat work that the minister and
+    doctor of the locality seem more like “old salts” than members of those
+    professions. I remember particularly one clergyman, whose <i>annex</i> was
+    on a group of islands off the coast. As the steamer passed she swung
+    round a point, when a boat came off to us, with a grand figure standing
+    up steering her. From beneath an old sou’-wester streamed his white
+    hair, grandly blown back, and he wore silver spectacles, large muffler
+    round his throat, oilskin coat and trousers, and long sea boots. As
+    the boat neared the steamer and was turned to the gangway, a sailor
+    on board said, “Now, sir, you’ll see one of the fine old sort; this,
+    sir, is the priest, and not a better seaman will you find all along
+    the coast&mdash;nor a better man.” No wonder religion takes so simple and
+    earnest a form when its exponents practically exemplify, in their
+    every-day life, its sublime teachings with a simplicity, energy, and
+    dignity far beyond the conception of those working in densely populated
+    districts; for the priest, although but an occasional visitor to some
+    parts, is a source of comfort and sympathy to all in their trouble, and
+    enters with the greatest interest into their rejoicings and pleasures,
+    whether they be public or domestic. In this way their relations with
+    their flocks are most “good shepherd-like,” and their constant care and
+    solicitude for their parishioners <span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>rivet the love and confidence of
+    all around them. No doubt these relations are materially assisted by
+    the tolerably equal distribution of this world’s goods in spots remote
+    from busy towns; or rather, to speak more correctly, by the absence
+    of wealth and the even-manneredness of all such Norwegian residents.
+    Any stranger visiting Norway will be struck with the large Elizabethan
+    frill worn by the priest, which, with the sombre black gown, and the
+    two candlesticks constantly kept on the altar ready to be lighted on
+    three occasions&mdash;generally Christmas, the end of the forty days, and
+    Easter&mdash;imparts a very mediæval character to the service. All that we
+    have here said of the relations of the clergy with their congregations
+    is abundantly confirmed by the homely way in which the former give
+    out the notices from the altar as to the working of the parish or
+    the schools, or any extra communion, when requested by any of the
+    parishioners.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_036">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_036.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Smoking the Cows: Thelemarken.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_037f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_037f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Jamsgaard Laave.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_037f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Going to Berge from Sillejord, we had torrents of rain&mdash;a deluge: we
+    now approached higher ground and a blacker country. Snow ploughs on the
+    side of the road told tales of wintry difficulty of transit, while
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>sledges were round most of the houses. Arrived at the station, we
+    found one small bedroom with strong store-closet atmosphere, game lost,
+    &amp;c. In the <i>vand</i> are perch; in the river, greyling. The hunter and
+    <i>bonde</i> here was building a large room, which, though still unfinished,
+    we decided to sleep in. We soon had a roaring fire; the beds were made,
+    the Patriarch slinging his hammock under a huge carpenter’s bench;
+    then came the cooking, followed by a few songs; and finally stories of
+    bears, wolves, wild cats, and lynxes from the <i>bonde</i>. There was a very
+    fine old <i>mangletræ</i> here, two feet long. So peculiar an instrument
+    of Norwegian household necessity is deserving of explanation: it is
+    two feet long and four inches wide: <span class="smcap">b</span> represents the things
+    to be mangled; <span class="smcap">c</span> the roller; the right hand of the mangler
+    takes hold of the lion at <span class="smcap">d</span>, and the left hand on <span class="smcap">a</span>
+    balances the <i>mangletræ</i>, which is worked backwards and forwards until
+    the things are done. <i>Mem.</i>&mdash;Last night reindeer were seen above here;
+    and at the <i>vand</i>, high over this place, the <i>bonde</i> had seen a glutton
+    after a wounded or sick reindeer. The chief brought in three trout for
+    breakfast. Now the real life was bursting on us. How we drank in the
+    stories of the hunter, rising in the morning to delight in the health
+    and beauties about us!</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow60" id="i_037">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p>At Mogen we found more signs of winter&mdash;sledges abundant, and one
+    pigsty kind of hut surmounted by a wonderful group: snow shoes, old
+    reindeer horns and heads, sledges, and a plough.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+    This is primitive;
+    but it is not all: there were the old querns, or <i>haandkværn</i>. In spite
+    of this we had not shaken the influence of travelling civilisation;
+    the <i>bonde</i> asked us if we would like some “Bockley and Pukking’s
+    black-brown beer.” Certainly. “Men hvor meget?” Two and sixpence per
+    bottle: it had been left by an Englishman. Eheu, what an anomaly!</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a>
+    The iron of this plough is exactly the same as the
+    hand-plough, or “casarhome,” used in the Western Highlands, and now
+    fast disappearing.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span></p>
+
+  <p><span class="smcap">Jamsgaard.</span>&mdash;This was such an evening: north wind strong, bad
+    for tents; large lawn discovered, camp inside; camp beds fitted up,
+    cooking outside. The hammock was slung. How the north wind whistled,
+    until we barricaded that side with hay! Then we all slept. In the
+    morning we were to start early, and the perfect dignity with which the
+    page entered the dormitory, with coffee for all, was truly a picture.
+    We got a very good pony here, a true <i>bakken</i>, with black-centred hog
+    mane, and zebra-marked legs, and started in lovely weather by the
+    crystally clear Totak Vand, where we saw a large white owl; then to the
+    larger Toftland, and on to Botten. We are now in snow-shoe land, with
+    spills of birch-wood for pipes, and more mills, one over the other,
+    for grinding. Grouge Kirk was interesting; and we saw a woman rowing
+    over with homespun, to be sent to some commercial centre. Starting
+    in a <i>stolkjær</i>, Botten is a good high-latitude station: bleak to a
+    degree. The snow was close to the house, but within all one could wish:
+    preserved meat, reindeer flesh, port wine, but no white bread; looms,
+    spinning-wheels, snow shoes; many old ale bowls, saddles, carved boxes;
+    and, at one end of the barn, boughs of trees brought up from the <i>dal</i>
+    for the magpies to build in; at the other end a bunch of wheat, also
+    brought up and placed on a pole for the birds. After leaving Botten we
+    started for Haukelid Sæter, and found the men working on a new road
+    to the Hardanger. As they progress, large monoliths are put up at
+    intervals with the date of construction, and sometimes the elevation
+    above the sea; here it is 2,800 feet, and at this point very large
+    Scotch firs are found in skeleton state, monuments of a past period of
+    giants.</p>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="HARDANGER">III.<br />HARDANGER.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    HAUKELID&mdash;SLAUGHTER OF REINDEER IN A BOTTEN&mdash;THE BROKEN
+    BRIDGE&mdash;THE FORD&mdash;USEFUL OLD PONY&mdash;THE ASCENT&mdash;ROLDAL
+    VALLEY AND BRIDGE&mdash;THE LENSMAND&mdash;FLORA AND LONG
+    TRAMP&mdash;DOUBLE SOLAR RAINBOW&mdash;SNOW SHOES&mdash;GRÖNDAL AND
+    DISTANT FOLGEFOND&mdash;ZIGZAG ROAD&mdash;SELJESTAD&mdash;NO FOOD, BUT
+    A GOOD PONY&mdash;GRÖNDAL WATERFALLS&mdash;SANDEN VAND&mdash;THE LATE
+    ARRIVAL AT ODDE.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="T" /></span>HE
+    Haukelid Sæter is 3,500 feet above the sea. Here we had the
+    pleasure of meeting the Norwegian engineer of the road, and in the
+    <i>vand</i> below were floating masses of ice. In the morning the <i>vand</i> was
+    frozen (July 15), so that we could not cross in a boat, but had to go
+    round. Near this was the scene of a reindeer slaughter by natives: they
+    had a Remington breech-loading rifle; drove a herd into a <i>botten</i>, or
+    <i>cul-de-sac</i>, and shot forty in six days&mdash;nine in one day; but we shall
+    refer to this later on. On our journey we found the bridge carried
+    away, and had to ford, which was great fun. We sent a knowing old pony
+    over first. How we enjoyed it&mdash;one might have taken us for schoolboys
+    out for a holiday&mdash;in and out of the water! One poor pony, however, did
+    not find it agree with him, the ice-water was so cold, and for a time
+    he was very bad indeed.</p>
+
+  <p>Once more in the flat of the valley, it seemed like old times, and we
+    thought a hearty meal at Seljestad would do us good. In the latter
+    respect, however, we were doomed to disappointment, meeting with
+    nothing but picturesqueness and some costume, in which red bodices
+    were conspicuous; so we had to fall back on potted meats and biscuits.
+    Whilst waiting we saw some peasants <i>en route</i> for their <i>sæter</i>, with
+    all their milk apparatus. The only good thing we got was a pony&mdash;a
+    beauty&mdash;to <span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>go down this grand valley, and drive, one may say, through
+    the Laathe Fos. At this point there are three falls in view of each
+    other&mdash;Laathe Fos, Espeland Fos, and Hildal Fos. This we enjoyed, and
+    late at night, or rather early in the morning&mdash;for it was one o’clock
+    when we got into the boat to go down the Sanden Vand and row to
+    Odde&mdash;having had such a good day, we sang “God save the Queen” and many
+    songs about Rensdyr, Jagt, Norwegian love, “det kjære Hjem,” &amp;c.</p>
+
+  <p>In the morning we arose, and before breakfast read the following
+    encouraging entry in the Dagbog:&mdash;“Wel Satisfed everything is good
+    order;” and so we found it.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_042">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_042.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Seljestad.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Roldal itself is very beautiful. Our guide (Knut) returned to Haukelid,
+    and next morning we left the lensmand’s house for a very long day,
+    hoping, if possible, to reach Odde. At Hore we could only obtain some
+    sour milk, and then started over the snow for Seljestad, when we
+    noticed an old <i>bonde</i> preparing barley for brewing, assisted by his
+    wife, with a scarlet body to her jacket. About two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we
+    saw a grand effect of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>double solar rainbow&mdash;blue sky, no cloud.
+    The sky between the inner and outer circles, which were complete, was
+    deep lavender. This was seen from the head of the pass, above 3,500
+    feet, with snow all round us. As we came down we cut our road, and
+    after lunch, on arriving at the outburst of snow-water, we were all
+    wild enough to bathe in it. However, we were none the worse, but, on
+    the contrary, much the better for it. Soon after we came on one of the
+    grandest bursts in Norway; a deep zigzag went down below us; and we
+    looked upon the Gröndal, which is immense, and at the end of which lies
+    the vast expanse of the Folgefond. We now began our descent, and worked
+    along the valley. The curious part of the fording was this&mdash;that the
+    old pony, having taken one man and baggage over, came back by himself,
+    so that the “aspirants” might swim over without any load. After this
+    we had a long ascent and heavy drag, beneath a scorching sun, over
+    the snow, so much of which had not been known for years, to a tiny
+    Ligaret <i>sæter</i>. The best thing to counteract the sun’s influence is a
+    sou’-wester hind side before.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_043f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_043f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Wooden Bridge at Roldal.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_043f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“Rein” were seen here. Later on, at an altitude of 4,000 feet on a
+    bare rock, we partook of dinner, icing our claret <i>au naturel</i> in the
+    snow. Soon afterwards we began our descent, and, on leaving the snow,
+    found a young girl goatherd with a little bit of costume, showing that
+    she belonged to Roldal&mdash;viz. a dark blue cloth cap, with yellow-orange
+    border. Then we passed a hunters’ hole or hut, and again forded;
+    finally coming, late in the evening, to a spot particularly mentioned
+    by Forrester and greatly admired by us&mdash;the old bridge, with torrent
+    roaring beneath, and the distant lake at our feet. We all paused, lay
+    down, and murmured with delight over the beauties of the spot. Now that
+    we had arrived at vegetation, we put leaves inside our caps, and longed
+    for glycerine for our faces.</p>
+
+  <p>Norway is grand, picturesque, wild, and bold, its principal features
+    being the long arms of the sea running inland for many miles, sea-water
+    dashing against the most precipitous façades of rocks, and the
+    snow-water, in many instances, coming down from the high ranges, and
+    falling straight into the sea itself. These arms of the sea are called
+    <i>fjords</i>, and two are especially grand and of immense expanse&mdash;the
+    Sogne fjord (the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>larger) and the Hardanger: both of them are rich in
+    snow-scapes and waterfalls. The Hardanger is the richer of the two in
+    the matter of waterfalls, having two to boast of&mdash;the Vöring Fos and
+    the Skjæggedal Fos, sometimes called the Ringedal Fos, as falling into
+    the Ringedal Vand. The Vöring Fos, which is approached from Vik, is
+    better known than the latter, which is more grand in form and power:
+    to reach it one should stop at the end of the fjord. The difficulty
+    of access and roughness of road have prevented many from making the
+    attempt; still it is well worth any passing discomfort or fatigue to
+    have the privilege of communing with nature under such a combination of
+    circumstances.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_044">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Odde: Hardanger.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Arrived at Odde, arrangements must be made to remain at least <span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span>three or
+    four days, so as to visit the following most interesting localities:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <p>1. Skjæggedal Fos.</p>
+
+  <p>2. Buerbræ Glacier.</p>
+
+  <p>3. Folgefond.</p>
+
+  <p>4. Gröndal Laathe Fos, and other fosses.</p>
+
+  <p>The immense extent of the snow-fields of the Folgefond should not
+    be missed, and for these a day not too bright should be specially
+    selected; for pleasant as fine cloudless weather undoubtedly is, still
+    nature is not always seen to the greatest advantage in it, and more
+    particularly in mountain scenery, where mist and broken cloud relieve
+    the various peaks, detach them one from the other by the most delicate
+    films, and impart grandeur, endless variety, and size, draping the
+    peaks with mystery and majesty. What a delightful sensation is that of
+    rising on a fine fresh morning, with the early mist waiting its bidding
+    to rise, and the anticipation of a glorious excursion in a mountainous
+    country before one! Now for the fos.</p>
+
+  <p>The village of Odde, our starting-place, with its simple church, a
+    station for carrioles and boats, its few wooden houses, kind simple
+    people, and one lazy-looking sailing craft, or <i>jægt</i>, is fortunate in
+    having a young guide, who, following in the steps of his father, has by
+    his many good qualities influenced numerous people to visit this most
+    excellent place; and all who have been there once seem to wish to go
+    again. Our arrival from the Haukelid route, coming down the Gröndal,
+    was late; in fact, about two <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Leaving the lake above Odde,
+    we first caught sight of the Hardanger fjord, with the village lying
+    below, the church in strong relief, and its few buildings against the
+    bright water. One felt greatly inclined to sit and muse over such a
+    scene, so calm, so peaceful, so solemn, so silent, for no singing
+    birds ever chirrup in this northern land, and their absence is most
+    noticeable.</p>
+
+  <p>Early in the morning we are up, and, with every promise of fine
+    weather and comfort from our “nosebags” (most necessary items for this
+    travelling), we start for the Skjæggedal, an excursion which should
+    take fourteen hours to do comfortably. What enjoyment can there be,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>
+    what satisfaction, what knowledge gained in a strange country, if one
+    flies through it as if in training for some event or actually engaged
+    in athletic sports? The start is made from Odde down the lake to
+    Tyssedal, about an hour’s row on the fjord. Soon is seen a white line
+    running out from the shore, the boat is caught by the stream and swung
+    round, and we near the land in the backwater. This is the exit of the
+    snow-water from the fos into the sea-water of the fjord.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_046">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_046.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Odde: Hardanger.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Now to begin three hours’ good steady walking up, up, up through
+    pine woods, with boot soles polished by slippery needles, now and
+    then ledges of rocks, and ofttimes a shelving sweep of smooth rocks,
+    dangerous for most people, ticklish for every one, especially should
+    they have any tendency to giddiness. In some parts logs have been laid
+    in the fissures, and in one place a kind of all-fours ladder; still
+    all enjoy it, and glory in the freshness of the trip. After this tough
+    walk the upper valley is reached, and the farm, “Skjæggedal Gaard,”
+    is in sight. Here we found milk and coffee; the homestead, so lonely
+    in winter, now bright in summer light, with peasant farm folk quite
+    out of the world, and a singing guide; but even Danjel, with his eagle
+    profile, is not always <span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span>inclined to sing his best. Perhaps he is
+    aware of the report that the priest, having heard that Danjel had
+    fallen in love, had forbidden the banns, simply on the score of his too
+    strong resemblance to the feathery tribe just mentioned.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_047f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_047f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Skjæggedal Fos.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_047f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Leaving the farm, we go down to the boathouse, covered with huge
+    slabs of stone to prevent it being blown away by the wintry winds,
+    and enter the boat to cross the river at the foot of the fos from the
+    Ringedal Vand. Once over, we are soon at the Ringedal Lake, which is
+    all snow-water, most crystally clear, and containing no fish, no life,
+    on account of its extremely low temperature. On the left of the lake
+    is seen high up the Tyssestrængene Fos, as shown under the initial
+    letter of our opening chapter. Near the foot of this we stop to go
+    up and see the bear self-shooter, or trap, where Bruin, it is hoped,
+    may run against a wire which fires two barrels heavily charged&mdash;a bad
+    look-out in the future for tourists who eschew guides, as this is
+    the only accessible road. At the back is the immense snow expanse of
+    the Folgefond, and in front of us we hear a distant roaring thud of
+    continuous waters&mdash;our “fall.” Rounding a point, we look up and see
+    it. The best time is when the snow-water is in full spate; then it is
+    truly majestic. The whole air seems whirled round in eddies; the water
+    comes shooting and leaping over, falling in inverted rocket forms,
+    half breaking on a ledge of rocks; the foam, the roar, the vast spray,
+    everything is soaked and dripping&mdash;the energy of nature in a most
+    sublime form, the Skjæggedal Fos itself. We were loath to leave the
+    spot, but started off a little taciturn from the impression the scene
+    had made on us, and safely returned to receive the kind hospitality of
+    our friends at Odde, and next to visit the Buerbræ Glacier.</p>
+
+  <p>This glacier has especial interest for all lovers of nature, from the
+    fact of its being not only a new formation or creation, but being
+    still in process of development. It is caused by the immense pressure
+    of the large snow-fields above in the Folgefond, which bodily weigh
+    and force down the ice into the valley. Our good friend Tollefson,
+    father of the young guide previously mentioned, was born in the valley
+    where the glacier is now gradually carrying all before it. Fifty years
+    ago, he told <span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span>me, there were no symptoms of ice; gradually it formed
+    and advanced&mdash;in 1870, ninety yards; in 1871, four yards in one week;
+    and in 1874 a still more rapid progress. When we were there the front
+    ice was just ploughing up a large rock and pushing it over; on either
+    side the rocks are steep; and throughout the colour of the ice is very
+    beautiful, rivalling the hues of the Rosenlain Grindelwald. Where will
+    this glacier end? Most likely it will drive steadily on to the lake
+    above Odde. Who can tell?</p>
+
+  <p>At the farm was seen a beautiful piece of carving, in the form of a
+    salt-box, very old, but well worth preserving. We shall give some
+    specimens of native work further on.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_048">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_048.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Buerbræ Glacier.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The costume of this district is very striking and characteristic, the
+    chief feature being the head-dress, or cap, called in Norske <i>skaut</i>.
+    It is formed of white muslin crimped, the hair hidden by the white band
+    over the forehead, the cap rising in a semicircle above the head, while
+    the corners fall down the back in a point nearly to the waist; white
+    linen sleeves, with scarlet body bound with black velvet; the stomacher
+    worked in different coloured beads and bugles; the chemisette fastened
+    with old <span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span>silver brooches; and the collar joined either by a stud or
+    brooch. The apron is equally picturesque. Like the cap, it is of white
+    muslin, with three rows of open insertion-work on a pink ground, which
+    is generally well thrown up by a dark petticoat, so that the whole
+    costume produces a very striking effect.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_049">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Spring Dance: Hardanger.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>These costumes were pleasingly brought together one evening when we
+    were invited by Svend Tollefson to a little dance at his mother’s
+    house. The father and mother sat together, whilst the younger folk
+    were either standing or sitting round. The fiddler was grand both in
+    action and eccentricity, with tremendous catgut fire, a few involuntary
+    notes trespassing now and then, and producing a stirring effect on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>
+    dancers. The young Svend, evidently a favourite with the youth and
+    beauty of Odde, was continuous in his dancing, principally the Spring
+    Dance&mdash;a waltz in which it is most desirable that the swain should be
+    taller than the maiden, for the former, holding her hand over her head,
+    has to run round the latter as she waltzes. The Halling Dance, in which
+    the performer jumps a great height into the air, was attempted out of
+    doors, but hardly with success. After each dance the guests partook
+    of wine, and on this occasion we had some <i>gammel fiin hvid portvün</i>
+    (fine old white port wine). The politeness of the Norwegians is most
+    noticeable. After taking wine there was a constant shaking of hands,
+    while the host was profusely thanked by, “Tak for vün,” or “Tak for
+    mad,” the charm of which is considerably enhanced by the fact that
+    these simple-hearted people mean what they say.</p>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="BERGEN_AND_ARCHAEOLOGY">IV.<br />BERGEN AND ARCHÆOLOGY.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    FROM ODDE DOWN SÖR FJORD&mdash;UTNE&mdash;HARDANGER FJORD&mdash;FAIRY
+    TROLDS&mdash;BJERG TROLDS&mdash;THE HULDRE&mdash;THE NÖKKEN&mdash;THE
+    NISSER&mdash;HAUGE FOLKET&mdash;TUFTI FOLKET&mdash;THE DRANGEN&mdash;CRACA, THE
+    WITCH OF NORWAY&mdash;OLAF KYRRE, THE NORSE KING&mdash;BERGEN&mdash;THE
+    HANSEATIC LEAGUE&mdash;THE GERMAN MERCHANTS&mdash;THE “PFEFFER
+    JUNKERS”&mdash;THE FISH FOLK OF BERGEN&mdash;THE MUSEUM&mdash;STRAX&mdash;THE
+    SILDE KONGE&mdash;NORWEGIAN WHALE SKELETONS&mdash;THE FLINT
+    PERIOD&mdash;BRONZE PERIOD&mdash;INHUMATION AND CINERATION&mdash;ROMAN
+    INFLUENCE&mdash;THE IRON PERIOD&mdash;ARCHÆOLOGICAL PERIODS IN NORWAY.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_053.jpg" alt="O" /></span>DDE
+    is situated at the most southern point of the Sör fjord&mdash;the last
+    inland effort of the Hardanger; and we left it with regret, although we
+    knew there was a new world before us in sea-coast experiences: the most
+    bracing sea air, together with the excitement of putting into all kinds
+    of out-of-the-way villages nestling behind headlands and huge bastions
+    of gneiss, to protect them from the furious gales which lash this coast
+    from the south-west. We therefore laid ourselves out for thorough
+    enjoyment of steamboat travelling, aided all down the Hardanger by the
+    clearest and most lovely weather. We proceeded down the Sör fjord, <i>en
+    route</i> to Eide, the boats coming off to the steamer at Utne. Some of
+    the costumes were most brilliant in colour. One bright green bodice,
+    the edging of which was blended with other colours, bore the palm, and
+    everything bespoke joy save the face of the poor girl who wore it.
+    She had come to see a brother start for America, and to wish him “God
+    speed.” Then away we went from Eide down the Hardanger to Rosendal,
+    under the Folgefond. We had looked forward to visiting Rosendal, as the
+    last château of Norway. Unfortunately there was not sufficient time
+    to land. Sometimes, late in the season, the steamers visit outlying
+    spots for cargo, and then <span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span>much may be seen, as, for instance, when
+    the Bergen steamer calls at the sulphur mines of Varalsoe. On one of
+    these occasions we not only had the opportunity of going up to the
+    mines, but through them, as five hundred tons of ore were being shipped
+    for England. Some people find the steamer journey wearying: there is,
+    however, so much information to be gathered from those who come on
+    board, generally for short distances, that the local details are always
+    worth inquiring into.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_054">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Market: Bergen.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The whole of the Hardanger is grand and impressive, the Folgefond, with
+    its immensity of snow-spread, being the chief attraction. The peace of
+    fine weather makes one almost incredulous of what it is when winter
+    storms tear up the fjord, and the now unrippled surface is lashed into
+    a fury which defies the stoutest hearts and boats.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p>
+
+  <p>We are nearing Bergen, and there is a flutter on board as the town
+    first opens to view&mdash;<i>mirabile dictu</i>, without rain. On the port side
+    is a fort, and apparently there are fortifications on the starboard bow
+    too. At last we enter the town.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_055">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_055.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Rosendal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <h3><span class="smcap">Norwegian Fairy and Spirit Lore.</span></h3>
+
+  <p>Before travelling farther we shall do well to prepare ourselves for any
+    unexpected apparitions, should such be our good fortune. Let us then
+    review their varieties, as we hear them described by some who believe
+    they have seen them. They may be classified as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <p>The <i>Trold</i>, or <i>Eventyr Trold</i>&mdash;<i>eventyr</i> meaning “fairy tale”&mdash;is
+    more frequently introduced into fairy tales than met by tourists, or
+    even sportsmen: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>it is very shy of foreigners. This particular class
+    is distinguished by having one, two, or three eyes, and sometimes one,
+    three, six, or nine heads&mdash;a sort of giant, wild man, or inland Caliban
+    of eighteen feet high.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/music_056.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="epub-hide"><a href="music/norway.midi">[Listen]</a></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The <i>Bjerg Trold</i>, as the name suggests, frequents the mountains, and
+    belongs to the same class as the former, though smaller, attaining a
+    height of only twelve feet; in fact, it is a medium male ogre.</p>
+
+  <p><i>The Huldre.</i>&mdash;This is a great fairy-tale mystery&mdash;the refined beauty
+    in peasant Hardanger costume, who sometimes appears&mdash;as mentioned in
+    our notes on Thelemarken&mdash;at dances and festivities, turning the heads
+    of all the beaux of the evening until, in some swing of the spring
+    dance, her dread cow-tail is revealed, when she vanishes as the music
+    of D. T. A. Tellefsen suggests, leaving many broken hearts behind her.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Nökken.</i>&mdash;Water sprites, generally depicted with Neptune crowns, grey
+    beards, and seaweed garments.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Nisser.</i>&mdash;These are the mischievous little rascals who are always up
+    to tricks here, there, and everywhere, and are closely allied to the
+    sprites known in the Romsdal fjelds as the Höboken. These latter are
+    seriously spoken of as existing, and having blue heads; and while up at
+    the <i>sæters</i> a spare place inside is invariably left for them by the
+    <i>piger</i>. The Nisser are depicted with grey clothes, long beards, short
+    bodies, and red caps; the shortness of the body recalling to our minds
+    a remark of days gone by, “Perhaps Mr. Nobody did it.”</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span></p>
+
+  <p><i>Hauge folket</i> are a combination of Huldre and Nisser.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Tufti folket</i> are a peculiar variety of Nisser.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Drangen</i> are the ghosts or spirits of drowned persons.</p>
+
+  <p>Having classified these mystic folk, we can only hope that the
+    information we have culled from authentic and local sources will not
+    only help those who have already read Norwegian legends, but give a
+    zest to those that may be forthcoming in future translations. Those
+    interested in early witches will find details of Craca, the witch
+    of Norway, in Olaus Magnus, “De Gentibus Septentrionalibus,” a work
+    probably well known to our immortal bard Shakspere, as Craca was great
+    in using “venomous moisture of snakes.” A caldron, too, was the common
+    instrument of witches, wherein they boiled juices, herbs, worms, and
+    entrails for enchantments.</p>
+
+  <p>Norwegian fairy tales are numerous, and traces of Trold lore are found
+    all through the provinces, and constantly referred to in every-day
+    life; at least, so we found. It is, however, possible that “the wish
+    was father to the thought,” and that we rather courted than avoided
+    referring to them. Unfortunately they came not, although a rattle
+    of flying rocks down a <i>couloir</i> was always attributed to them. We
+    shall not find them in Bergen, that is certain; only Huldre appears
+    in public, and she coyly at the festivities: she delights not in
+    war-paint, <i>gibuses</i>, or opera hats.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Olaf Kyrre, the old Norse king, built, or rather developed, Bergen into
+    a town about 1070. Easy of access, and naturally adapted as a centre
+    for trade, it has now become the most important commercial town of the
+    west coast. The principal tradition of Bergen is, that ever since the
+    introduction of umbrellas every little Bergenite has been presented
+    with one as soon as born, another being bestowed by the godfathers and
+    godmothers at confirmation; and it is only reasonable to suppose that
+    at a wedding every one gives the bride a Sangster or a Gamp, according
+    to circumstances. Anyhow, it is an indisputable fact that umbrellas are
+    plentiful in Bergen, and, when not devoted to keeping off the rain,
+    they serve as a screen against the occasional visits of the sun. No
+    doubt this humidity is owing to the position of the town, which lies
+    between two <span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>mountains not less than 2,500 feet high, upon and around
+    which Jupiter Pluvius reigns supreme.</p>
+
+  <p>Passing from the climate, we must notice the town or city. Approaching
+    it from the fjord, it looks picturesque and busy, with merchantmen,
+    steam tugs, steam launches, and coasting steamers entering the
+    harbour. On the left is the old castle or palace, with the remains of
+    its banqueting hall, supposed to have been built by Olaf at the same
+    time as the church. On the right is the landing-place for steamers,
+    above which, on a part of the town abutting on the fjord and forming
+    a continuation of the principal street, is a fort. Proceeding farther
+    down the harbour, with the churches before us, on the left we pass the
+    ship-building yard, and come upon a long line of white wooden houses
+    with wharfs in front of them&mdash;a busy scene, fraught with energy and
+    <i>bouquet de stokfiske</i>. Alongside lie the Nordland <i>jægts</i>, or vessels
+    which bring the fish down dried from the Lofoden Islands, and their
+    crews are in close commercial relationship with the owners of the white
+    wooden structures which are known by the name of the Hanseatic Houses.
+    Olaf Kyrre had favoured the Scotch with certain privileges for trading
+    at Bergen, but in after years the Hanseatic League made great efforts
+    in the same direction, and successfully; for in 1228 they settled and
+    began to trade in Bergen, and by some extraordinary means ousted the
+    Scotch and English entirely by 1312, when they were left in their
+    trading glory. They soon developed the vast fishing trade of Nordland,
+    and made Bergen the great commercial centre which it now is, receiving
+    dried cod-fish and roes from the north. These are sent, in exchange for
+    wine, corn, iron, and so forth, to Sweden, Denmark, Holland, Spain,
+    England, and various parts of the Mediterranean, but especially to
+    the Roman Catholic countries. Still, these German merchants were not
+    entirely happy; they, the Hanseatics, located together on one side of
+    the harbour, were not much liked by the youth and beauty of the Bergen
+    proper side of the town, receiving from the Norske <i>piger</i>, or Bergen
+    beauties, the characteristic and appropriate <i>sobriquet</i> of “Pepper
+    Youngsters” (<i>Pfeffer Junkers</i>), which still clings to them.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_058f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_058f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Bergen.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_058f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_059f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_059f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Bergen: Fish Market in the distance.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_059f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Bergen must have been very imposing in appearance in the old times,
+    when the large Hanseatic craft were warping out of the entrance of the
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>harbour, with their high quarter-deck and taffrail-deck lamps,
+    squarely rigged three masts and steeving bowsprit, jack-yard and
+    water-sail, long pennons and streamers from the yard-arms, the sides
+    of the vessel falling well in, and the guns bristling to frighten any
+    who might take a fancy to the good cargo on board. Now the Hanseatic
+    League is a matter of ancient history, but it did its work well, and
+    will not soon be forgotten. Bergen is at present the source of supply
+    to all places to the north of it, and in itself is interesting to the
+    visitor as being a centre of costume&mdash;that charming relic of days
+    almost bygone, when each district had its distinctive dress and its
+    special form of silver ornament, which, however quaint, or, to go
+    further, even ugly, still commanded favour by the respect its presence
+    offered to those who had gone before, and most likely had worn it. The
+    costumes are well seen at the market, when the farmers, or <i>bönder</i>,
+    come in with farm produce, bringing their wives and daughters, with
+    the milk in wooden kegs formed like churns, with leather stretched
+    over the top, and hoops pressed down tightly to keep it from spilling.
+    These milk-cans are carried by the women on their backs, with straps
+    or ropes, like knapsacks. One costume is very noticeable here, that
+    of the fish-girls. It consists of a dark blue petticoat and jacket,
+    a kind of Scotch bonnet well pulled over the head, with a white
+    edging of cap coming a little down and showing all round, and roll
+    upon roll of kerchief round their necks. Robust, pictures of health,
+    and muscular, how they row! When their husbands or brothers are with
+    them they row all the same, being quite capable of the first law
+    of nature&mdash;self-preservation. They work hard and in earnest, and
+    always look <i>bien soignées</i>. For flow of language the early fish
+    market conveys a good idea of the activity of the tongue and power of
+    gesticulation&mdash;features of life not common to Norway. The boats are all
+    down below, and the purchasers, generally domestic servants, hang over
+    the woodwork above, craning their necks and stretching down, pointing
+    first to this, and then to that, and possibly pushed aside ere long by
+    some one else worming in for a bargain.</p>
+
+  <p>In the meantime the fishermen in the boats are taking it very quietly,
+    sorting their fish, feeling that their purchasers can be supplied
+    <i>strax</i>. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span>Now this word in the dictionary is described thus:&mdash;“<i>Strax</i>,
+    directly or immediately.” Practically, in Norwegian life, the traveller
+    finds that it is no such thing, <i>strax</i> being a movable feast&mdash;so
+    movable that it is impossible to say where it will be. It is not even
+    so sure as the “Coming, sir,” mumbled by a flying waiter in the midst
+    of a crowd of customers about one o’clock; for in the latter case, if
+    you wait until two o’clock, you feel there is a probability looming,
+    but with a Norwegian <i>strax</i>, especially if applied to getting horses
+    for carrioles, it may be hours, or, in the words of what was thought a
+    charming song in our younger days, though now half forgotten, “It may
+    be for years, or it may be for ever.”</p>
+
+  <p>Bergen is especially associated with the registers of the sea serpent;
+    therefore the subject should be referred to here. Crews and captains
+    have voluntarily sworn to having seen in various parts of the ocean
+    strange monsters of the deep, usually of serpentine form; and judging
+    from the illustrations in that interesting work by Olaus Magnus the
+    Goth, “De Gentibus Septentrionalibus” (dated <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1530), the
+    sea monsters depicted therein were enough to frighten any artist,
+    particularly if he were on the spot where the said creatures were
+    visible. Still many wonders of the deep may be studied with advantage
+    at the Bergen Museum. Lately this institution has been brought
+    prominently to light, thanks to the energy of M. Lorange, who has
+    found a grand field for his enthusiasm in Scandinavian relics, flint
+    implements, and specimens of the “glorious Viking period.” But we must
+    not be carried away by this interesting topic from paying due attention
+    to a strange-looking creature in this museum, which is kept in spirits
+    and labelled&mdash;</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <div class="center">“<span class="smcap">Silde Konge</span> (<i>Gymnetrus Glesue Ascanius</i>).</div>
+
+    <p>“Length (dried), without tail, 12 feet. Depth, 1 foot. Head blunt,
+      square. Bristles, or capillaries, 3 feet; 8 from above, 6 under the chin.”</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <p>The whales are very fine and enormous specimens, being eighty feet
+    long. Why, then, should there not be gigantic <i>silder</i>? A Highlander
+    was once speaking of the grandeur and size of Scotland, when a remark
+    was made that the area was small. “Tout, tout, mon! But if you saw it
+    rolled out, just think what it would be then!” So, were we to roll out
+    a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>ninety-foot whale, should we not have as good a sea serpent as any
+    newspaper might desire?</p>
+
+  <p>Now that costume is being fast swept away, the old silver of Norway
+    bought up by travelling dealers for the town silversmiths to export,
+    the old carving replaced by cheap feather-edge boarding, and the
+    <i>mangel brats</i> chased away by “Baker’s patent” or some other brand-new
+    patent, a general national museum like this of Bergen becomes
+    especially desirable, and even necessary, for retaining in the country
+    itself its own characteristics. In flint weapons it is especially
+    rich, thanks to M. Lorange, who has opened many tumuli with reverence
+    and care, his perfect knowledge of the subject being a guarantee that
+    nothing will be overlooked. Natural history, too, is well represented.
+    The corals found at the entrances to the fjords are astonishing,
+    immense, being more like shrubs in size. The Runic inscriptions
+    and carvings, portals, and chairs are most interesting; while the
+    church decorations of early Christian periods, the ironwork, arms,
+    and numismatic records, so useful as collateral history and in the
+    assignment or corroboration of the dates of tumuli, are well cared for.
+    Most heartily, therefore, do we wish success to the national collection
+    now so happily commenced, and so full of promise.</p>
+
+  <p>The somewhat modern appearance of Bergen and the absence of old wooden
+    houses are attributable to the disastrous fires which have raged from
+    time to time in different parts of the city; in fact, so much was
+    destroyed by the great fire in 1702, that nearly the whole of the town
+    has been rebuilt, except the old Hanseatic houses. Neither has Bergen
+    escaped its share of scourges, for the black pestilence made sad havoc
+    about 1348 or 1350, and the plague destroyed immense numbers about 1620.</p>
+
+  <p>Although Bergen is the most important fish mart in Norway, it will
+    be better to give a detailed description of its working, extent, and
+    season, when we arrive at the Lofoden fishing grounds and islands,
+    and the coast of Heligoland and Salten. It seems curious that these
+    slow-sailing <i>jægts</i> should come five hundred miles with their cargo
+    of fish, when Trondhjem, Molde, and Aalesund are close to hand; but
+    on consideration it will be easily understood what an advantage it
+    must be for them to get a quick and ready sale for their fish, and a
+    selection of every kind of produce from <span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>the warmer climates of the
+    Mediterranean, or even the West Indies. Whether articles of necessity
+    or luxury, Bergen can supply anything, from a marlinespike to a sea
+    serpent.</p>
+
+  <p>The museum of antiquities at Bergen now deserves attention, and
+    in it the Nordfjord is brought especially before us, as we shall
+    see hereafter. In the meantime we will turn to a few chronological
+    landmarks in the early days of Gamle Norge, which will be most
+    valuable, as the catena of Scandinavian history is complete in
+    specimens of the different periods, corroborated by the archæological
+    treasures of Denmark, now so admirably arranged by Professor Worsaae
+    in the museum at Copenhagen, and the collection of antiquities at
+    Stockholm. Having followed out these different periods, we need only
+    casually refer to the objects themselves when we come to the districts
+    where they were originally discovered or still exist.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow75" id="i_062">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_062.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Church Candlestand: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>The Flint Period.</i>&mdash;For a long time it was supposed that Norway
+    had no stone period: now flint implements of beautiful surface and
+    exquisite finish are found up to lat. 65°, beyond which, and near the
+    North Cape, the implements are of hard schist, the local formation of
+    that part. Among these specimens are found of arrow and spear heads,
+    and knives. The <span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>hammers are generally made of whatever the rock of
+    the country may be. This use of hard schist for stone implements is
+    corroborated by discoveries in similar latitudes in Sweden and Finland.
+    A very fine dolmen is still in existence at Frederickshald, in the
+    south of Norway&mdash;a spot which, to judge from the number of tumuli in
+    the neighbourhood, generally placed on rising ground within view of
+    the sea, is a perfect cemetery. Their average height is about 3 feet 6
+    inches to 4 feet, and length about 35 feet. Near Stavanger the flint
+    implements are of exquisite finish.</p>
+
+  <p><i>The Bronze Period.</i>&mdash;It is interesting to associate this period with
+    two systems of burial, namely, Inhumation and Cineration.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Inhumation.</i>&mdash;Wooden coffin&mdash;a tree scooped out; at the bottom was
+    placed a bullock’s skin, on which the hero was laid in his garments,
+    and with his arms by his side. An instance occurred in which the
+    following items were preserved quite perfectly:&mdash;A <i>vadmel</i>; a kind of
+    Phrygian cap; a wool plaid and petticoat, or rather kilt, to the knee;
+    a small box; a comb; and a bronze sword and knife. These, with a belt
+    for the waist, convey a vivid idea of the costume of the period.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_063">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_063.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Knife-stone on Bronze Belt: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>Cineration.</i>&mdash;Flint stones seem to have been the base of the grave,
+    which was about seven feet long. Remains of cinders prove that the skin
+    of some animal was first laid down, then the body with extra garments,
+    in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>the cinders of which the bones were found, accompanied by a bronze
+    sword, with sheath; two knives of bronze; and a cube of wood, not
+    burnt. The bronze implements are so generally known that it is not
+    necessary to illustrate them.</p>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow40" id="i_064">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_064.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Hard Schist implements: North Cape.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>The Iron Period.</i>&mdash;During this period the tumuli were consumed on
+    elevated positions within view of the sea; the bones discovered are
+    burnt, the ashes being in urns. The objects burnt with them were
+    generally small ornaments of bronze or iron, the workmanship of which
+    betrays no Roman influence. Sometimes, also, glass vessels were
+    consumed, as globules of melted glass have been occasionally found.
+    In other cases the ashes are in bronze vases, showing a transition
+    state. Should there, however, be any swords, they are bent and twisted,
+    and are undoubtedly attributable to Roman influence, as some of the
+    bronze vases bear Roman inscriptions. The next stage covered a large
+    space, and was characterized sometimes by cineration, and sometimes
+    by inhumation. In the latter case the objects are placed with great
+    care after the old Roman manner, and consist of urns of burnt clay,
+    bronze, and glass; ornaments, arms, &amp;c. Here we have not only actual
+    Roman work, but Norwegian imitations, such as bracteates, which have
+    been found with Byzantine moneys struck about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 450 or 500.
+    This brings us to an important epoch in Scandinavian history, which
+    is very ably described by Dexter Hawkins, Esq., in a pamphlet on the
+    Anglo-Saxon Race, being an address read by him before the Syracuse
+    University, June 21, 1875:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <div class="center">“<span class="smcap">The Anglo-Saxon Race.</span></div>
+
+    <p>“A providential event, not originating from themselves, but from
+      a Roman emperor who intended no such results, occurred at the
+      close of the third century, which, by directing the attention of
+      the Saxons to maritime exploits on a larger scale, with greater
+      prospects, and to more distant <span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span>countries than before, exerted an
+      important influence upon their own destiny and that of Europe, and
+      finally of America.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter illow80" id="i_065a">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_065a.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>Sword: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter illow46" id="i_065b">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_065b.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>Bracelet: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter illow83" id="i_065c">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_065c.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>Rowlock Knot of Birch-stones. Viking Rowlock.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>“The Emperor Probus, harassed by the annual incursions of the
+      barbarous hordes around the Euxine, now the Black Sea, transplanted
+      a large body of various tribes, including Saxons from the vicinity
+      of the Elbe, to that region to serve as a protection against
+      future inroads. But the attachment of mankind to the scenes of
+      their childhood, and their ardent longing when in foreign lands
+      for the country their relatives inhabit, where their most pleasing
+      associations have been formed, where their individual characters
+      have been acquired, and customs like to their own exist, are
+      feelings so natural to every bosom, and so common to every age,
+      that it is not surprising that these exiles longed to return to
+      their native wilds. Impelled by this desire, they seized the
+      earliest opportunity of abandoning their foreign settlements and
+      possessing themselves of the ships lying in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>the adjacent harbours;
+      they formed the daring plan of sailing back to the Rhine, though
+      they were more than two thousand miles distant by sea, with no
+      charts, compass, or pilots, and ignorant of the many islands, and
+      shoals, and currents of the Black and Mediterranean Seas. Compelled
+      to land wherever they could for supplies, safety, and information,
+      they ravaged the coasts of Asia and Greece. Arriving at Sicily,
+      they attacked and plundered its capital with great slaughter.
+      Beaten about by the winds, often ignorant where they were, seeking
+      subsistence, pillaging to obtain it, and excited to new plunder
+      by the successful depredations they had already committed, they
+      carried their hostilities to several districts of Africa. They
+      were driven off that continent by a force sent for that purpose
+      from Carthage. Turning towards Europe, they passed the pillars of
+      Hercules, sailed out into the Atlantic Ocean, rounded the Iberian
+      peninsula, crossed the stormy <span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>Bay of Biscay, passed through the
+      British Channel, and finally terminated their remarkable voyage by
+      reaching their fatherland at the mouth of the Elbe.</p>
+
+      <div class="figcenter illow50" id="i_066">
+        <img class="w100" src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" />
+        <div class="caption"><i>Sword Handle: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+      </div>
+
+      <div class="figcenter illow50" id="i_067">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_067.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>Arrow Heads and Sword Handle: Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>“This wonderful expedition discovered to these adventurers and to
+      their neighbours, to all, in short, who heard, and had the courage
+      to imitate, that from the Roman colonies a rich harvest of spoil
+      might be gathered if sought for by sea. It removed the veil of
+      terror that hung over distant oceans and foreign expeditions; for
+      these exiles had desolated every province almost with impunity.
+      They had plunder to exhibit sufficient to fire the avarice of every
+      spectator. They had acquired skill which those who joined them
+      might soon inherit. On land the Roman tactics and discipline were
+      generally invincible; but at sea they were comparatively unskilled
+      and weak. The Saxons perceived this, and immediately turned their
+      whole attention to naval warfare. Like their American descendants,
+      they were cunning and apt at whatever they undertook. Their navy
+      became so <span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>effective in a few years that every country in Europe
+      bordering on the sea had contributed to their wealth, and they
+      annoyed the Roman commerce to such a degree that large fleets
+      were fitted out against them, and an officer appointed by the
+      Romans as early as the beginning of the fifth century styled ‘The
+      Superintendent of the Saxon Shore.’ These exploits had filled their
+      island with wealth.”</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>A very interesting antiquarian discovery was made in 1877 close to a
+    village in Sealand, some twenty miles from Copenhagen, of which the
+    following are the most important details:&mdash;About three yards below
+    the ground a grave was discovered, surrounded and covered by large
+    monoliths, the grave being about six yards long and two yards wide, and
+    the floor consisting of rough oaken planks, on which were found the
+    remains of a female in a mummified state. Round the head of the body
+    were placed several glass cups, one of which bore an inscription, in
+    Greek characters, signifying “Good luck to you,” and in other cups were
+    found the remains of various kinds of fish, as well as a gold coin of
+    the reign of the Roman Emperor Probus. A solid ring of gold encircled
+    the neck, and a heavy pin of the same metal was also found close to
+    the body, as well as a couple of finger rings. At the feet were placed
+    several vessels hollowed out of oak, in which were deposited the bones
+    of various animals, especially young pigs, and in one of these basins
+    were discovered forty-two dice burned in bone. In the earth round this
+    tomb were discovered the remains of several human beings lying in
+    great disorder, and it is supposed that the bones are those of slaves
+    sacrificed to the manes of the deceased lady. It is thought probable
+    that this tomb dates as far back as the third or fourth century after
+    Christ.</p>
+
+  <p>With regard to the initial letter at the head of this chapter, it
+    is from a remarkable specimen of Runic wood-carving&mdash;part of an old
+    episcopal seat&mdash;which will be more fully described when considering
+    that class of work, of which we find such interesting specimens in the
+    museums of Norway, especially that of Bergen, and which happily are
+    well preserved for our study and guidance.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span></p>
+
+  <div class="center mt5">ARCHÆOLOGICAL PERIODS OF NORWAY.</div>
+
+  <table summary="Archæological periods of norway">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="bl bt">&nbsp;</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdl2 bl bt">STONE.&mdash;Silex for stone implements.&mdash;Arctic stone
+          implements recently discovered near the North Cape are of hard
+          schist, the stone found in that part.</td>
+        <td class="bl bt">&nbsp;</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="bl bt br">&nbsp;</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="vat bl bt"><span class="smcap">a.d.</span><br />100<br />200</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdl2 bl bt">BRONZE.&mdash;Period of Cineration and Inhumation in wood, trees
+          scooped out.</td>
+        <td class="bl">&nbsp;</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="vat bl bt">300<br />400<br />500</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="tdl2 bl bt">IRON, <span class="smcap">1st Period</span>.&mdash;Sudden
+          transition from cast bronze swords to iron swords damascened.
+          Roman coins found in tumuli of 63 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span>&mdash;217
+          <span class="smcap">a.d.</span>&mdash;Iron and glass come together.&mdash;Roman influence.</td>
+        <td class="tdl0 bl">Urns for ashes.</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="vat bl bt">560<br />600<br />700</td>
+        <td class="tdl2 bl bt">IRON, <span class="smcap">2nd Period</span>.<br />
+          Byzantine Barbaric influence.</td>
+        <td class="tdl0 bt">Byzantine Coins.<br />
+          Roman Bracteates.</td>
+        <td class="bl">&nbsp;</td>
+        <td colspan="2" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="vat bl bt bb">800<br /><br />900<br /><br />1030</td>
+        <td class="tdl2 bl bt bb">IRON, <span class="smcap">3rd Period</span>.<br /><br />
+          Christianity.</td>
+        <td class="tdl0 bt bb">VIKING PERIOD.<br /><br /><br />
+          RUNIC <span class="smcap">1st Period</span></td>
+        <td class="tdl0 bl bb">Norsemen to Iceland.</td>
+        <td class="vat bl bb"><span class="smcap">a.d.</span><br />863<br />
+          936<br />994<br />1000</td>
+        <td class="cw tdl0 bb br">&nbsp;<br />Harold Harfager.<br />
+          Haco the Good.<br />
+          <span class="smcap">Olaf</span>.<br />
+          Eric and Sweyn.</td>
+        </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="WEST_COAST_AND_NORDFJORD">V.<br />WEST COAST AND NORDFJORD.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    COAST TRAVELLING&mdash;BERGEN HARBOUR&mdash;THE SCHOONER YACHT&mdash;SKAALS
+    OVERDONE&mdash;WEST COAST&mdash;STEENSUND&mdash;ALDEN&mdash;OUSEN AND
+    ITS GARDEN ROOFS&mdash;EN ROUTE FOR SANDE&mdash;DELIGHTFUL
+    STATION&mdash;GOOD FISH&mdash;JOLSTER VAND AND NEDRE VASENDEN&mdash;THE
+    ANXIOUS BATHER&mdash;PICTURESQUE CHURCH-GOING&mdash;NORWEGIAN
+    BLAKKEN&mdash;THE ACCIDENT&mdash;THE FRIENDLY TOILETTE&mdash;COSTUMES
+    AND BABY SWADDLING&mdash;SCARCITY OF FOOD&mdash;THE TENTMASTER
+    COOKING&mdash;NORDFJORD ANTIQUITIES&mdash;PROFESSOR WORSAAE AND
+    M. LORANGE&mdash;CONTENTS OF TUMULUS&mdash;THE VIKINGS’ GAME OF
+    “MYLLA”&mdash;UDVIG&mdash;THE BAD PASS FROM MOLDESTADT&mdash;SNOW
+    POLES&mdash;THE POSTMAN AND BIRCH BOUGHS&mdash;BIRTHDAY
+    FESTIVITIES&mdash;FALEIDET&mdash;LYTH FISHING&mdash;HAUGEN AND
+    HORNINGDALSKRAKKEN&mdash;HELLESYLT&mdash;BELTS&mdash;THE GEIRANGER
+    FJORD&mdash;CAPTAIN DAHL&mdash;THE SEVEN SISTERS&mdash;THE VIKING’S
+    HEAD&mdash;THE PULPIT&mdash;MARAAK&mdash;STORFJORD.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_073.jpg" alt="T" /></span>RAVELLING
+    in Norway is principally carried on by carriole, row boat,
+    and steamer. From the immense extent of seaboard the latter mode has
+    naturally been much practised and developed, more especially as the
+    Government has not only countenanced it, but encouraged it in every
+    possible way. Our route in this excursion involves the adoption of
+    this mode of conveyance, and we leave Bergen, with all its interesting
+    monuments, associations, costumes, and commercial interests, to wend
+    our way up the coast to the north. Starting from the port, with its
+    varieties of shipping from all parts of Europe, its Nordlander <i>jægts</i>
+    always prominent, its churches standing well out from the moist haze
+    and smoke of the city, a scene at all times picturesque, we soon settle
+    down for steamboat travelling. On this occasion there was a very
+    unusual bustle at the mouth of the port, a fresh breeze was blowing,
+    and a small schooner yacht was being towed out for a trial trip. From
+    the amount of bunting and excitement, not only on board the yacht, but
+    on shore and on our steamer, this was <span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span>evidently a great event. With
+    sails all ready to be hoisted as soon as the hawser was let go, one
+    would imagine that chase was about to be given to a smuggler, or that
+    a Viking had appeared in the offing. It was, however, only for a sail,
+    and our little coast steamer was soon away by herself, ploughing in
+    loneliness through the fjord. And now for the healthy pleasant delights
+    of sea-coast trips.</p>
+
+  <p>With our luggage quietly stowed awaiting our bidding, and a calm
+    satisfaction that the steamer was well found, our meals punctual and
+    plenteous, our captain well up to his work, the steward anxious to take
+    care of us, and our travelling companions likely to be agreeable&mdash;the
+    Norwegians being kindly to strangers who are courteous to them&mdash;there
+    is but one drawback to the steamer work. It occurs in the fore part
+    of the vessel, and is occasioned thus. A <i>skaal</i> (health) for Gamle
+    Norge is a very good thing and a noble sentiment, but if too often
+    repeated, with the usual accompaniments, it becomes offensive. The
+    peasants come on board at the numerous stations, and can procure every
+    variety of spirit which is unobtainable on shore. They therefore
+    make the most of their opportunity, and soon the demon of our own
+    land&mdash;inebriation&mdash;appears, bringing discomfort to the recipient,
+    disgust and misery to his surroundings, and finally a besotted and
+    wrecked old age; for, although strong constitutions may resist its
+    inroads for a time, they must inevitably succumb at last, and pay the
+    penalty. Either the victim is quarrelsome or maudlingly stupid: the
+    demon makes his mark in so many ways. The natural expression of the
+    features is no more to be found; the eye loses its brightness, its
+    sweetness is changed for heavy moistness, its telegraphic and sensitive
+    expression has vanished; the lips, before so full of character, are no
+    longer the exponents of subtle feeling; the hand trembles, the feet
+    shuffle, the whole frame is limp, the muscles are flaccid, and the
+    brain muddled to futile dreaming. If this be a curse in public, what
+    must it be when it invades a home! Well may the wife long to see her
+    husband freed from this evil spirit and restored to his former noble
+    nature!</p>
+
+  <p>But let us turn to the feast to which nature invites us. At every
+    moment the sea-scape changes, new peaks open to us, the clouds are
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>massing ready to be gilded by the setting sun, and soon we have
+    the heavens in a blaze of fiery glory and impressive grandeur. As we
+    approach the outlying islands we find strong glacial markings, less
+    vegetation, and the characteristics of the line of route, all up
+    the west coast of Norway, can be carefully and comfortably studied
+    by the most moderate sailors, as the islands keep the steamer track
+    quite smooth, and it is only when the entrance of some large fjord is
+    passed that any motion is felt or any rolling occurs. The villages
+    generally nestle close to the waterside, the church in the centre,
+    and the <i>præstegaard</i> close by; but a variation occurs in one village
+    particularly: the church answers the double purpose of God’s service
+    and the fisher’s beacon, and is placed well upon the top of the hill.
+    Many are the excuses made by professing Christians for not going to
+    church, but the difficulty of access to the one in question, while
+    frequently causing the pilgrim to utter the cry of “Excelsior,” at the
+    same time elicits the mental avowal that he would be very thankful if
+    it were lower.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_075f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_075f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Village and Church of Alva.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_075f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>In making this passage those who are in Norway for the first time must
+    be struck by seeing that both sides of the vessel are sometimes within
+    three feet of the bare rocks, which descend precipitously into the
+    sea. No wonder, then, that the old woodcuts of the sixteenth century
+    show large rings in the face of sea rocks for the vessels to moor
+    to.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>
+    One part of the coast near Steensund is most barren: the masses
+    of rock, entirely rounded by ice in past ages, seem to be too smooth
+    for vegetation to get a footing. The spot, however, finds favour with
+    lobsters, which seem to thrive here, ultimately finding themselves in
+    England, and ending their days with a garnishing of parsley. Even for
+    lobsters, however, travelling is very expensive, for the difference
+    between their price in England and Norway is simply astonishing.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a><i>Vide</i> Olaus Magnus.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>On some parts of the west coast red deer are found, and now that
+    these animals are scarce, it seems a pity they should be in danger of
+    extermination. Better far would it be if the <i>chasseur</i> had sufficient
+    strength of mind and self-denial to induce him to give these last
+    of their race such a respite, or series of closed seasons, as would
+    enable them to increase in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span>number. One fine head came on board&mdash;a very
+    healthy, powerful horn, and royal on both sides. The beam was much
+    thicker than it usually is in the horns of stags killed in Scotland,
+    and very grand in form. The haunch weighed thirty-eight pounds English,
+    so that it must have been a “gude beastie.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_076">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_076.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Ousen.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>After passing the entrance of the Sogne fjord and experiencing a
+    little rolling, we sighted the island of Alden, a very imposing mass
+    of rock, supposed to resemble a lion’s head; and, fortunately for us,
+    there was less mist rolling around it than usual. It would have been
+    a sad disappointment had we only had its whereabouts suggested to us,
+    which is the fate of many who are anxious to see it. Our wholesome
+    little craft soon leaves Alden far behind, running up Dalsfjord to
+    the eastward; we begin to worm our way through narrow passages, with
+    the rocks nearer than ever to her sides; and at last we leave her to
+    take a boat, in order that we may row up to Ousen, a lovely spot, with
+    such garden roofs and such a farmhouse and buildings! The spot where
+    we landed is shown in the woodcut. The river was of the most beautiful
+    soda-water-bottle<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> colour, the wooden buildings topped with the mountain
+    ash in all its gala beauty of bright clusters of berries. The beams
+    used in the construction of the houses were very old and remarkably
+    massive, and the size of the Sea House suggests the importance of this
+    locality as a centre for general merchandise. We arrived here about
+    three in the morning, and the servant at the farmhouse showed us to our
+    rooms, which had a weird ghostly appearance from their bareness, size,
+    and height. The old staircase testified that it had once been well kept
+    up; and then, as we looked about for some indication of date, we at
+    last found a good specimen of a snaphance pistol of about 1625, which
+    tallied well with the period we had already assigned to the house.
+    We had now left the sea for a time, and after a few hours’ rest the
+    Tentmaster-general reported everything ready for a start; and soon we
+    were <i>en route</i> for Sande.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_077">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>The Island of Alden.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Sande is a place of sweet waters to the traveller. After rough roads,
+    bad beds, sparse food, and occasional parasites, what a change! The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>
+    probability is that a stranger would pass the comfortable-looking
+    house, with its creepers over the porch, its well-stocked garden,
+    English home life, and generally inviting appearance. The geniality and
+    kindly welcome offered by the master of the house are most delightful,
+    and every one who visits it has a strong wish to rest for awhile in
+    such agreeable quarters. The valley is very bold and grand, and good
+    expeditions can be made in all directions. The Paymaster-general,
+    with honest pride, pointed out to us where, on a former visit, he had
+    killed a fine fish, and seemed to realise the fact that, having once
+    experienced that gratification, you can go on killing the same fish,
+    with all its pleasant associations, for the rest of your life. But we
+    soon had to leave this inviting spot for rougher quarters, being bound
+    due north, to be up for August 1st and reindeer; and as time, tide,
+    and August 1st wait for no man, we started for our next station&mdash;Nedre
+    Vasenden, on the Jolster Vand.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow55" id="i_078">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_078.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Nordfjord Peasants.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>On arriving there no luxuriant garden growth welcomed us. Instead of a
+    south aspect, it was a north one. The atmosphere was changed, and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>we
+    missed our beloved Sande. As it was Saturday night, we looked forward
+    to a quiet Sunday, with church, the meeting of the peasants, and a
+    good chance of seeing all the costumes of the district, which is wild,
+    barren, and uncultivated. The Sunday morning was inviting, and we took
+    the opportunity of going to the lake, at a retired spot where the
+    mountain path came down to the water’s edge, for a quiet bathe; but no
+    sooner were we in the water than a troop of peasant girls came slowly
+    down the path. Confusion and dismay! Norwegians do not understand our
+    amphibious tendencies. However, No. 1, with his characteristic retiring
+    disposition, dived, leaving a certain disturbance of the water after
+    his plunge, which attracted attention. Beyond this, only the smallest
+    possible part of two heads might be seen. Now came the anxiety of
+    wondering what the spectators would do. Would they throw stones at us,
+    to make us run, or examine the contents of the chief’s pockets, or try
+    on some of our garments? No; while wishing we had the epidermis of a
+    Captain Webb the whole group suddenly laughed, and moved slowly off,
+    evidently thinking how curious the English were in their habits. We
+    afterwards met at the church porch.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_079.jpg" alt="E" /></span>VERY
+    traveller taking to pony travelling in Norway
+    implicitly believes that there is no danger of the animal ever falling;
+    and it is a happy and comfortable faith. The <i>blakken</i> are rare good
+    animals, cream-coloured, with dark points; hog manes like hat-brushes,
+    with white down the centre, the black being outside; and their hind
+    legs rather zebra marked. From the first they are petted, and their
+    intelligence and stolid kindliness requite the care of the owners. They
+    trot well; and how they can go down a hill! As they crouch and run
+    close to the ground they need never be handed: no “’ands” required, as
+    the British groom would describe it. Still, exception proves the rule,
+    and we met with an instance in this <i>stolkjær</i> trip.</p>
+
+  <p>We were going over the crest of a grand mountain road, below us <span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>a
+    large lake, and beyond a glorious range of mountains. The deep tone of
+    the fir forest added solemnity to the scene, and our good health and
+    enjoyment of such company made it a happy moment. The Paymaster-general
+    was leading&mdash;driving fast, as was his wont; for his driving was like
+    the driving of Jehu. The Tentmaster-general was next, with a huge
+    Norwegian sitting by his side. In a second came the transformation
+    scene&mdash;nothing visible to the Patriarchal eye but the soles of the
+    boots of the two persons in the <i>stolkjær</i>, the expanse of the huge
+    Norwegian foot forming a contrast to the small neat extremity of the
+    Tentmaster, who was shot out with great velocity, and stunned by his
+    unavoidable concussion with the earth. We laid him in the heather by
+    the side of the road, anxious for his recovery. Happily he soon came
+    round, but was much shaken; it was, therefore, necessary to proceed
+    very gently to avoid further shaking, and we purposed halting for a day
+    or two, until we could get the advice of a doctor. It assumes the form
+    of real travel when doctors are two days distant or more, and you carry
+    your own lint and medicine. Thankful were we to see the return of the
+    old smile on the Tentmaster’s face, and to hear from his own lips the
+    welcome bulletin, “I am better.” The pony was not hurt, while the big
+    Norwegian had a <i>skaal</i> of whiskey, and, we fancied, was ready to be
+    thrown out again to obtain a second remedy. Soon afterwards we arrived
+    at Jolster Vand by Nedre Vasenden.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow55" id="i_080">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_080.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Norwegian Plough.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The station here is a huge&mdash;may we say dreary&mdash;wooden house. The
+    next morning, however, brought its joys and happy combination of
+    circumstances: the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>invalid was much better, the bright July morning
+    perfect; there was service at the annex kirk along the <i>vand</i>, or
+    lake; and we purposed going by boat with some peasants, and a most
+    enjoyable row it was. As we neared the church we found many boats
+    already arrived, and, invited by the loveliness of the morning, the
+    beauties of Jolster had congregated and were looking their best. Many
+    <i>stolkjærs</i> were standing round the walls of the churchyard, and the
+    ponies were enjoying themselves, nibbling the short grass as far round
+    as their tether would allow them. There were some quaint costumes.
+    These good church-going peasantry arrive early; and, as many dwell so
+    far apart, and seldom meet except on these occasions or on some special
+    business, we cannot be surprised to find that, instead of opening the
+    meeting with prayer, the practice on the part of the men is to indulge
+    in a little worldly talk before church, while the girls, according to
+    custom, complete their toilettes from the contents of their <i>tines</i>,
+    or travelling boxes, the said contents being a mixture of old silver
+    brooches, silk handkerchiefs, and <i>fladbrod</i>: in some cases the butter
+    is carried separately in a small <i>tine</i>. One incident struck us very
+    forcibly&mdash;the kindly interest the girls took in the neatness and finish
+    of each other’s dress. Only fancy three nice-looking <i>piger</i>, or girls,
+    sitting one behind the other, each plaiting the hair of the girl in
+    front of her. What absence of mystery as to capillary arrangements!
+    No “Lady Audley’s Secret” (which <cite>Punch</cite> said was her back hair). No;
+    each girl wished her friend to look her best, and carefully adjusted a
+    string here or a brooch elsewhere, for there were no looking-glasses
+    about. Then there were several other objects of interest. The black
+    caps of the Jolster women are very curious, with a little white showing
+    all round the edge. The covering up or hiding of the hair has a very
+    mediæval appearance, but the nice little stand-up collars give a more
+    modern character to the neck. The plaiting of their homespun dresses is
+    very close indeed.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_081f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_081f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Friendly Toilette.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_081f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>On this occasion there were two or three knots of people, suggestive of
+    something of unusual interest; and we found the centre of each to be a
+    little baby brought to be christened, surrounded by admiring relatives.
+    Such babies! such funny little chrysalis-looking pets, swaddled
+    and rolled up! the swaddling-bands being of many colours, the more
+    brilliant <span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>the better&mdash;red, white, green, and crimson&mdash;with the cross
+    frequently introduced, and generally so worked as to come uppermost in
+    the band. The swaddling process seems much the same as in Brittany,
+    where a ring is sometimes fastened at the back by which to hang the
+    child up while the mother goes to work. No one could have seen this
+    peaceful Sunday morning without being struck with the beautifully clean
+    appearance of every one there&mdash;the homespun (<i>vadmel</i>) looked so sound,
+    and so likely to wear well; the old silver ornaments so respectable
+    and heirloomy. Of course on week-days, when the women are seen in the
+    roughest of their outdoor life, it would be unreasonable to expect to
+    find them as neat and prim as on Sunday. What a contrast, too, did this
+    glorious sunshine and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>joyous meeting present to the bleak dark days
+    of winter, when perhaps a hundred and fifty pairs of snow shoes, eight
+    feet long, are set up round the church, waiting their owners’ bidding
+    to start <em>home</em>!</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_082">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Lych Gate, Nordfjord.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_083f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_083f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Sanoe, looking down the Valley.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_083f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>After this cheerful interlude we went on to the next station&mdash;if
+    such it could be called. We intended making a meal there, and rather
+    looked forward to it; but nothing, not a single thing, could be had.
+    We therefore made a fire, and into a black pot put some portable soup,
+    with slices of Brand’s gravy-looking biscuits. Whilst the Tentmaster
+    tried to do the soup the Patriarch in vain sought a wooden spoon;
+    not even that was to be got; so the soup was stirred and tasted with
+    a birch twig. But he made a discovery: whilst spoon-hunting in a
+    drawer, which would only partly open, he saw the end of a mutton bone;
+    perseverance was rewarded, the drawer was opened; but the result worse
+    than a blank, for the shoulder-blade bone of mutton was bare, save the
+    green fluffy mould in which it was mantled. Some people may say, “Not
+    so bad; soup and biscuit, biscuit and soup, is a change.” Still, in
+    long journeys with <i>stolkjærs</i> over rough ground, you can form no idea
+    how shaky and restless it becomes. Moral: always carry a spoon, and,
+    above all things, never start anywhere without a nosebag with plenty in
+    it.</p>
+
+  <p>This Nordfjord district is one of special interest now, as recent
+    discoveries have corroborated the old traditions of its close
+    association with the Viking period&mdash;a period bearing so powerfully
+    on our own national character, that the subject should be fully
+    investigated, and the extant remains of the Sea Kings’ real life
+    placed carefully before us. For the nonce it will suffice to refer to
+    one particular tumulus, recently discovered and opened in Nordfjord.
+    As Denmark rejoices in, and is much indebted to, the archæological
+    enthusiasm, deep research, and sound knowledge of Professor Worsaae, so
+    Norway is fortunate in having the devotion of M. Lorange, who not only
+    tries to lay these precious earthbound relics before us, but actually
+    rescues them for our benefit and that of posterity; not only interests
+    the dry antiquarian and connoisseur, but in a far larger way draws more
+    closely together the bonds of union and interest between nations. It
+    is remarkable that a Roman emperor was <span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>the means of developing the
+    sea powers of the Scandinavians rather than they themselves; for only
+    recently some interesting coins of Marcus Aurelius have been found in a
+    tumulus in Denmark.</p>
+
+  <p>The contents of the Nordfjord tumulus were as follows:&mdash;Boat with
+    iron rivets twenty-five mètres long; a bit; fifty-four bosses of
+    shields, or umbos; stirrup; a drinking bowl of immense interest, and
+    well enamelled; sword, with silver work; key of treasure chest, spear
+    head, bone comb inlaid with colour, gold ring, dice, arrows, deck
+    marbles, beads and amulets, bones of horse and kid, belt of bronze, and
+    belt-knife.</p>
+
+  <p>Having heard what tradition says about the funeral rites of the
+    great ones, the contents of this tumulus, as well as the numismatic
+    discoveries in Denmark, are especially interesting, as corroborative
+    of history. We are much indebted to pagan customs and rites for the
+    valuable materials brought to light in connection with this period.
+    With Odin for their Mars, or god of war, and Thor for their god of
+    air and storm, they believed that their mighty men and heroes would
+    pass to Walhalla, and there enjoy the future in the same way, but
+    more perfectly, that they enjoyed themselves here upon earth&mdash;strong
+    symptoms of their belief in the resurrection of the body. For this
+    purpose they buried with the defunct all his implements of war and
+    chase; the horse was killed and placed in readiness, and, should he be
+    pleased to row, his boat was there too. In the Nordfjord case the bowl
+    is especially fine. Notice the delicate work in the base of it: in the
+    woodcut the upper subject is the bottom of the bowl. The enamel is very
+    minute; the “chequer” design, one might say, very Scotch. The enamel is
+    only on the base of the bowl; the body is of bronze, and the upper rim
+    is ornamented by three heads, one of which is shown in the centre of
+    the illustration. This is drawn full size, and the base of the bowl one
+    quarter size.</p>
+
+  <p>The two buttons are of single wire, very rudely but cleverly arranged,
+    with shanks not likely to be pulled away from the body. These are of
+    gold.</p>
+
+  <p>The key of the treasure chest would suggest that many good things had
+    been stored therein. Still the list is so complete that we could hardly
+    expect more items than those recorded.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow78" id="i_084f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_084f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Bronze Bowl, with Enamel Case, Swords of Viking Period:
+      Bergen Museum.</i></div>
+      <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_084f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+    </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span></p>
+
+  <p>The ivory or bone comb is a fine specimen, and the coloured work well
+    preserved.</p>
+
+  <p>The dice also are rather curious, as being a little longer than quite
+    square.</p>
+
+  <p>One of the most remarkable features, however, in the contents of this
+    tumulus is a set of bone marbles about one inch in diameter. The sphere
+    or marble is flat at the bottom, and has a small hole in it. These
+    marbles were used by men who spent their lives in ships, and were
+    played with on deck, the flat base being intended to keep them steady,
+    while the holes at the bottom, fitting on to small pegs in the deck or
+    board, prevented them from sliding as the vessel lurched. There was a
+    most interesting discussion on this matter at the Society of Arts. Deck
+    marbles were a novelty. Professor Bryce suggested that deck draughts
+    would be a solution of the difficulty; and after referring to the
+    antiquity of the game of draughts and the modes of playing, Professor
+    Maguierson gave a dissertation on the ancient game of “merelles,” known
+    in Iceland and Scandinavia as “mylla;” and even in the present day
+    the shepherds and boys on our South Downs cut the same pattern in the
+    close turf, and play the same game. We therefore come to the conclusion
+    that these bone treasures had been used on board the vessels of the
+    mighty Sea Kings of old, the little pegs, as just observed, preventing
+    their slipping, and also the hero from losing his temper and using
+    “pure Saxon.” The same precaution is in these days applied to railway
+    chessmen, and also those intended for use on shipboard, each figure
+    having its peg for safety and security. “Nothing new under the sun,”
+    said the wise man, and true is it.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Eleven o’clock at night, four thousand feet above the sea, we find
+    ourselves at the top of the pass, just above Udvig, looking over
+    Nordfjord. After a long day, and a very hard one, pleasantly tired,
+    we enjoy the scene before us: peace and tranquillity, with snow poles
+    all along to suggest what winter made it. The happy moment has arrived
+    to commence the descent. “Half the pleasure is in the anticipation,”
+    has often been remarked: we all thought this about half-way down
+    this <span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>precipitous descent in the twilight. The torrent path seemed
+    filled with boulders, the ponies slid, the bipeds stumbled, and by the
+    time we were half-way down we had no knees left. This is one of the
+    roughest ascents and descents in Norway, and is hardly practicable for
+    any kind of carriage: still it is one of the things to be done, and
+    one of the charms of the country. Lazy people lose much of the grand
+    scenery with which it abounds. Steady going tells best, and those who
+    try to spurt early in the day are much the worse for it afterwards.
+    How steadily an old Swiss guide starts off, and keeps at his pace, on
+    and on! That is the only way to last. By this time we see a flickering
+    light down below: we long for it, and soon arrive, but very late&mdash;about
+    one o’clock <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> We knock at the door of the station, which
+    is really a private house, like that at Aurjhem, but selected by the
+    Government to facilitate the wanderings of travellers. We are therefore
+    the more indebted for the kind welcome we receive. Down comes the young
+    son Jules, who immediately recognises our Tentmaster-general. Soon we
+    have some refreshment; and not long afterwards Master Jules says, “Jeg
+    schal go seng” (“I shall go to bed”). So said all of us&mdash;and we went.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_086">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_086.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Pass: Moldestadt.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_087f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_087f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Post arriving at Udvig.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_087f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figright illow50" id="i_087">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_087.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Postman and his Carriole.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>In the morning we were up early. A bathe in the fjord was our first
+    thought, although the big stones are much against it, and the seaweed
+    spoils it: the only way is to take a header out of the boat. After
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span>breakfast we espied a novelty in water travel: a large birch bough
+    was seen approaching, which we soon discerned to be the postman
+    availing himself of a fair wind after the usual custom here, a sail
+    being too dangerous even with sheet in hand. The original and simple
+    practice of cutting a large birch bough, and putting it in the bow of
+    the boat, serves the purpose better, the fresh foliage holding the
+    light air, and helping very materially the rower, who is frequently,
+    as in the present case, of the gentler sex, but very strong. The
+    postman sits complacently in the stern of the boat, with his bugle
+    just announcing his arrival, and rousing up the inhabitants of the
+    quiet village of Udvig. The bag is not large, but most important in
+    appearance&mdash;a huge leathern mass, locked, barred, and bolted. The boat
+    speedily comes to land, and the well-known sound and scrape are heard.
+    The bag is soon out, and the postman also: the post has arrived at Udvig.</p>
+
+  <p>We rowed out on the fjord to look up at the pass we had come down so
+    early in the morning; the view was very grand, backed by the higher
+    ranges of the Justedal snow. We had next to visit one spot which seemed
+    a great favourite with the host and hostess, and therefore started off,
+    and soon reached a position, having followed a strong stream or burn
+    which came above a saw-mill, looking over which the whole fjord lay at
+    our feet, the mountains on the other side looming stupendously.</p>
+
+  <p>Returning, we visited the church and lych gate (see <a href="#Page_82">p. 82</a>), the latter
+    narrower and higher than usual. When we regained our station a new
+    phase of life awaited and burst upon us. An invitation to a dance!
+    It <span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>was somebody’s birthday&mdash;the nineteenth&mdash;a young visitor from
+    Stockholm. Would we join in the festivities? We were delighted to have
+    the opportunity of visiting a family on such an occasion; but the
+    dancing element alarmed us when we thought of our rough boots and our
+    walk down, we being rather particular, and knowing what boots should
+    be. What was to be done? We shall see.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow68" id="i_088">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Saw-Mill: Udvig.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_089">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_089.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Faleidet: Nordfjord.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>In the meantime two boats were watched with much interest: one
+    contained the domine and family, the other some well-to-do friends. The
+    hearty welcome they received was beautiful; their sweet simplicity and
+    genuine affection were charming, and certainly will never be forgotten
+    by us, their visitors. Soon after the arrival the repast or dinner
+    was announced, and the real Norwegian customs were well placed before
+    us.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> After one course the master and lady of the house waited on us,
+    every guest getting a knife and fork; and at the end of each we went
+    and shook hands with the host and hostess, the children kissing their
+    parents.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> After the fish and various solids we adjourned to another
+    room for fruit, <i>patisserie</i>, coffee, and, not an unwise thing in
+    Norway, a cigar. The next event was to adjourn to the garden to see a
+    glorious sunset over the fjord, and to finish the cigar. During this
+    agreeable part of the evening the youthful Jules, with his nice fair
+    face, came and asked if the “English gentlemen would come and play
+    with the girls in the garden.” The Patriarch of our party sent his two
+    young bachelor companions, who <span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>readily accepted the invitation with
+    a spontaneous “Oh jag!” Report says the amusements in the garden were
+    a combination of hide-and-seek, Tom Tiddler’s ground, and prisoner’s
+    base. Anyhow they all seemed to have enjoyed them; in fact, the
+    Patriarch often regretted afterwards he did not join the youthful
+    throng instead of remaining with the seniors. Still there was much
+    festivity in store, and the Patriarch took kindly to the dance, which
+    included schottisches, mazourkas, and valses. This brings us to the
+    boot question. The dance commenced. The evening began merrily. The
+    piano (for there was a piano, and a good one, from Christiania) was in
+    tune, and all were thoroughly enjoying themselves, when attention was
+    drawn to one dancer in particular. Sage as an owl, how silently this
+    youthful Achilles glided! How softly yet firmly he trod the polished
+    boards, for no juniper tips were scattered that evening on the floor!
+    Why was it? The Paymaster-general, equal to the occasion, was dancing
+    in goloshes! O shades of Scandinavian gods! O Thor and Odin! that this
+    should be the result of civilisation in Kjære Gamle Norge!</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a>This has been referred to in former books, we are well
+      aware, but could we omit a custom so expressive of gratitude? <i>Le bon
+      Dieu donne tout</i>; but do we always give thanks?</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow50" id="i_090">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Olden River.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Another great feature in the evening was the singing and the national
+    music&mdash;and how we did enjoy it! Need we say how they sang, and we tried
+    to sing, “The Hardanger,” by H. Kjerulf, and the chorus song of “Norsk
+    Sjømandssang,” by Grieg, which goes with such grand emphasis; and the
+    light tripping sweetness of “Ingrids Vise,” also by Kjerulf, with its
+    chorus of “Over Lynget, over Lynget?”<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Another, specially bright and
+    cheery, touched the Patriarch very deeply; he is often heard still
+    humming this air “without words,” which the merry dancer described as
+    being all about some beautiful creature with large blue eyes and golden
+    hair. If she had but been with us to have danced with the goloshes,
+    what would she have thought?</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote clear">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a>See <a href="#Page_14">page 14</a>.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span></p>
+
+  <p>It was a delightful opportunity for us to see the <i>vie intime</i> of a
+    nice family in Norway. The welcome was most cordial; and thankful were
+    we to find ourselves unexpectedly in a spot which every one tried to
+    make us feel to be our home. Long may Herr Hammer, Madame Hammer, and
+    their kindly family enjoy health and prosperity! and, might we say,
+    continue their kindness and attention to those who go to Udvig?&mdash;for it
+    seems a perfect pleasure to them to do so.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright illow50" id="i_091">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Lyth Fishing.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>There was a disinclination to hurry from Udvig in spite of the
+    fine trip before us, for it is a lovely row up the Nordfjord. The
+    Tentmaster-general seemed loath to leave, he was so pleased with Jules;
+    he thought he had grown&mdash;had so improved; and he determined on several
+    good openings for him in London. The Paymaster-general had evidently
+    made a great impression, and no wonder, with the happy combination
+    of youth, a petite, petted dark moustache, and enthusiastic forehead
+    and goloshes, to say nothing of really good firework execution on the
+    Christiania piano. We were horrified afterwards to find that all this
+    had induced the young ladies to ask him to write all our names on a
+    pane of glass. In a weak moment he yielded; but why did he? How often
+    have complaints been made by ourselves of the creatures who carved and
+    wrote names! There were, perhaps, extenuating circumstances in this
+    case. So farewell to Udvig and its pleasant associations.</p>
+
+  <p>And now for a start up the Nordfjord to Faleidet. Such a good boat was
+    supplied by Herr Hammer! How we enjoyed it, looking forward to our
+    drive from Faleidet! We soon came upon a number of boats fishing for
+    <i>lyth</i>, a fish caught in large numbers, easily taken, readily consumed:
+    there were a great many boats, and they fish with a deep-sea single
+    line, feeling the bite over the forefinger, as in Scotland. We wanted
+    much to have seen some of the red sea-fish taken, which are much larger
+    than <span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>the mullet, but redder in tone and of splendid colour: a noble
+    fish to look at when caught, but poor on table.</p>
+
+  <p>Faleidet is a good station, beautifully clean, and well situated over
+    the water. Here we were much interested in specimens of copper ore, on
+    the richness of which our native held forth most fluently. The ore was
+    decidedly good, and I think in his own mind the Tentmaster had promoted
+    a company, and probably thought of the youthful Jules as assistant
+    secretary and foreign correspondent. No time was to be lost, so we
+    hastened to our <i>stolkjærs</i>, but hardly had we reached the top of the
+    hill when the Patriarch’s gimlet eye saw a long birch horn near a shed
+    by the roadside. This could not be resisted. “Halt!” was the word,
+    whilst the others went on. They soon pulled up, for the too-tooing was
+    noisy, if deficient in harmony; still there was a certain satisfaction
+    in the fact that one had elicited sound from a long birch horn, as used
+    by the good people of Faleidet, inferior as these horns are in force to
+    steam fog-horns, as now used at the Foreland, or the steamboat whistle
+    which skewers the tympanum of every traveller at every stopping place,
+    be it where it may. There is a great charm in all these old-fashioned
+    ways of doing things. Again the girls call to their cows, singing
+    to them in very sweet strains, and the cows follow them. It is no
+    question of a subtle tin-tack looking them up, which, like the county
+    of Buckingham, runs into Oxon and Herts. The whole treatment of animals
+    in Norway is a good example: the kindness is consistent and the care
+    unceasing. The early training of the children has much to do with this;
+    at all events the youthful impressions and the influence of the parents
+    have never lost one iota of good.</p>
+
+  <p>The Nordfjord is a great inlet of the sea which runs up an immense
+    distance, and greatly favoured the Viking tendencies. Many fine remains
+    have been discovered, and the contents of one tumulus in particular,
+    now carefully preserved in the museum at Bergen, have been already laid
+    before the reader.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span></p>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_093.jpg" alt="L" /></span>EAVING
+    the Nordfjord and passing through much that
+    is grand, we start from Faleidet, and when we arrive at Haugen have a
+    glorious view of the Horningdals Vand. Our hopes are buoyant, for it
+    is a “fast” station; and our appetites are good. What natural beauty
+    around us! To be happy, however, requires a combination that is seldom
+    realised. In this case one thing was wanting, and to travellers such
+    as ourselves it was a most important item&mdash;namely, food. The station
+    was fair to view. On the stone steps young children were playing; and
+    the numerous family were nursing each other&mdash;rollicking, chubby-faced,
+    and unwashed: for Norwegian children they were merry. In the road in
+    front of the house was standing a gaunt figure in knee-breeches and
+    stockings; and, with his braces hauling on to the short waist, his
+    long hair, and his straggling beard, he made a good type of what he
+    really was&mdash;a slayer of bears. Above the entrance, over the merry group
+    of children, were two bears’ skulls&mdash;the triumph, joy, and pride of
+    the slayer. Being short of provisions, we soon went on a voyage of
+    discovery, and investigated the interior; but what a blank it proved!
+    The fast station folk knew nothing, or pretended to know nothing. “A
+    cradle” of good carved wood, a bed in the corner of the room, and a
+    fireplace seemed to be all in this homestead. The only <i>fladbrod</i> we
+    could procure was of that unwelcome class prepared for travelling,
+    which means that it is flabby and tough enough to be rolled up and
+    folded without breaking. When the practical reader thinks of the
+    shaking, jolting, convulsive jerking action of <i>stolkjærs</i>, and even
+    carrioles, no wonder this food is left rather doughy for its journey.
+    Happy the man who, when he meets with this material, can set it up on
+    end! Dry it to the oat-cake condition, then it is good indeed&mdash;very
+    good. Still we made the best of it, and came to the conclusion that one
+    of the charms of travel is the variety of situation; and then, after
+    all, with pleasant companions, anything short of bad accidents is only
+    the kind of thing which the true traveller must expect, and almost
+    seeks. So we looked <span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>forward to the next good meal we could get, but
+    which must be very late in the day.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_094">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_094.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Haugen, near Hellesylt.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Some one suggested the advisability of smoking down our appetites. That
+    was declined as injudicious, and we longed to reach Hellesylt. The
+    second stage on, near Haugen, we saw a wonderful peak. Some idea of its
+    towering grandeur may be formed by setting its printed name on end. It
+    has no end of a name: here it is&mdash;Horningdalskrakken. What a pity one
+    cannot have time to “do” all these peaks, this one especially, isolated
+    as it is, and commanding a most interesting range, with so many fjords
+    at its feet, and the Hjørrendfjord and its shriven peaks bristling
+    below! In these days of express trains, fish torpedoes going twenty
+    knots an hour, telegrams, and instantaneous photographs, people <span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span>will
+    not give sufficient time to do anything with steady enjoyment. Skurry
+    and scuttle are too prominent by far.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_095">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_095.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Horningdalskrakken, near Haugen.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>As we approach Hellesylt the mountains become higher, more bluff,
+    their formation more tortuous, and we anxiously begin to look out
+    for our descent to the station&mdash;town one cannot call it; in fact,
+    hardly a village. Arrived at the top of the pass, with the river
+    dashing and splashing, the zigzag of the road is like patent cucumber
+    scissors&mdash;twenty zigzags or more. At one’s feet lie the Storfjord, the
+    Geiranger district, and Søndmur. Of course there is the usual church,
+    most prominently posted, with a good station, to welcome those who
+    escape from Haugen’s natural grandeur to the stomachic comfort of
+    Hellesylt. What a good meal we all thought supper was that night! It
+    was not the mere pleasure of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span>going in for a meal, but we had felt the
+    want of it, and now were thankful to enjoy thoroughly the good cheer
+    before us. There are very few parts of Norway which exceed the grandeur
+    of the neighbourhood of this place. The Storfjord is immensely grand,
+    but the Geiranger is a climax. The steamer from Hellesylt to Aalesund
+    goes down the Storfjord, affording a great variety of scenery, with
+    considerable comfort to passengers, as the vessels are well served; and
+    in this case the steamer has a captain known to all who have travelled
+    here, and always remembered with the most pleasing associations.
+    Captain Dahl has done much for this district, and has opened up the
+    unparalleled Geiranger fjord. Are not his good qualities recognised and
+    noticed throughout Norway by ladies? Having said so much, we hope to
+    visit Geiranger again under the captain’s kind care.</p>
+
+  <p>At Hellesylt we all noticed a prevalence of brass-mounted belts among
+    the men. Norwegian belts have invaded England and taken it by storm,
+    from the luxurious productions of a Thornhill, regardless of price,
+    to the other extreme, the Birmingham wholesale harum-scarum article,
+    which loses its gloss in a few hours. The Norwegian belt is a national
+    characteristic, adopted by both sexes, being worn on all occasions and
+    for various purposes. An instance occurred when two were used during a
+    trip to keep on a linseed poultice; but this was a modern innovation.</p>
+
+  <p>We were up early indeed the morning after arrival at Hellesylt. What a
+    morning! Hardly a breath as the steamer lay at the little pier waiting
+    for us. We had arranged with Captain Dahl to go up the Geiranger as
+    far as Maraak, so as to pass the glorious fall of the “Seven Sisters,”
+    and see it in all its beauty. We were very fortunate in all the
+    circumstances connected with this visit&mdash;weather fine, scenery grand,
+    cicerone full of enthusiasm and information, companions reliable,
+    food, after Haugen, one may say “good, plentiful and good.” The
+    characteristic features of this Geiranger, which has only been known
+    to travellers during the last few years, are the extremely precipitous
+    façade of rocks that enclose it, the paucity of landing places, and its
+    beautiful fall, the Seven Sisters. We arrived at the foot of it about
+    six o’clock <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and, as the sun was well to the eastward,
+    the effect was fairylike&mdash;the prismatic <span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>rays seemed to pervade
+    the base of the fall. The Seven Sisters come over and take their first
+    flight some two thousand feet above the fjord, and the streams, seven
+    in number, according to the pressure of melted snow above, combine and
+    separate, lose themselves in spray and spoondrift, and then collect
+    again from the dripping face of the rock, and finally the whole base
+    is “gauzed,” so to speak, with the dash of mist and the prismatic rays
+    called by sailors “blossoms”&mdash;really portions of rainbows. We wanted
+    to linger over the beauty of this spot&mdash;such delicacy of form, as the
+    streams shot forth some of the rocket jets, losing themselves for a
+    time, and then collecting with renewed energy for the final dash into
+    the fjord; but at last even Captain Dahl goes ahead, and we steam on
+    for Maraak, at the end of the fjord. Opposite to the falls we see a
+    relic of old Scandinavian paganism. Jutting from steep rocks, of two
+    thousand or three thousand feet, above a solitary boathouse, is shown
+    a prominent rock, called the “Pulpit,” and above that the gigantic
+    profile of a Viking; while higher still are situated some farms,
+    well away from modern improvements. If any one dies there during the
+    winter the inhabitants keep the body until the snow is sufficiently
+    melted to allow of its being brought down for conveyance to Hellesylt.
+    It is their custom also to tether their children, for the “go-cart”
+    conveyance of the seventeenth century, as shown in Quarles’s “Emblems,”
+    would soon be over the edge, urging its wild career to the depths
+    below. The very thought of such a position would be enough to frighten
+    some people; but how happy in themselves are these poor folks in their
+    simple belief and faith, their home love and trust! How difficult is
+    it to consider this kind of happiness, when the same family goes on in
+    the same position in life for three or four hundred years, in the same
+    costume, and with the same old silver ornaments! “How bad for trade!”
+    some would say. “What stagnation! how slow!” Yet how <span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span>enviable when we
+    have tasted the bitters of overstrained brain-work, and the furious
+    competition of millions of people, all massed and arrayed for the daily
+    struggle of modern times! It is from this latter that men retire for
+    awhile to take a refresher, a change of air and circumstance becoming a
+    matter of necessity; and so London, after a season of gaiety and rush,
+    is left in favour of outlandish places, simple fare, and, in fact, to
+    get away from the daily jostle of life, to be ready for the next bout.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_096f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_096f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Hellesylt.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_096f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_097f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_097f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Geiranger Fjord: Seven Sisters Fall.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_097f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figright illow40" id="i_097">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_097.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Breen-stok, or Bucket for Sharpening Stone.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>After our return from Maraak, Captain Dahl continued his passage
+    towards Aalesund. The Geiranger features were less marked until we
+    arrived at an immense perpendicular surface of rock, evidently but
+    recently exposed to view; and its appearance is explained by the fact
+    that some years ago the whole facing of this mountain came bodily down
+    into the fjord, raising an immense wave which swept across the expanse
+    of water, and almost entirely destroyed the village on the opposite
+    side. A more recent case occurred in the Nordfjord. The Hornelen
+    Mountain rises majestically from the fjord, going down from Bryggen.
+    Out of compliment to this monarch and giant a new steamer was named
+    after it; and, on the first occasion of passing, the captain honoured
+    Hornelen with a salvo, which was promptly answered by a great mass of
+    rock being launched from the mountain side, throwing up a wave which
+    nearly annihilated the saluters, and frightened some of them so much
+    that they will never venture to repeat their <i>feu de joie</i>. It is
+    equally dangerous to disturb or cause any considerable vibration in the
+    atmosphere under glacial ice or snowdrift: many lives have been lost in
+    this way, and the fact cannot be too strenuously impressed on the minds
+    of all travellers.</p>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLDE_AND_ROMSDAL">VI.<br />MOLDE AND ROMSDAL.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    MOLDE&mdash;THE GOOD SHIP “TASSO”&mdash;STATLAND&mdash;AALESUND&mdash;MOLDE
+    LANDING&mdash;HERR BUCK&mdash;THE LOVE OF FLOWERS AT MOLDE&mdash;THE
+    LEPER HOUSE&mdash;MOLDE TO VEBLUNGSNÆS&mdash;THE BEAR AND THE
+    PIGE&mdash;ROMSDAL FJORD&mdash;AAK&mdash;THE RAUMA&mdash;THE OLD CHURCH
+    OF GRYTEN&mdash;THE CANDELABRA&mdash;HERR ONSUM&mdash;NÆSS&mdash;THE
+    SKYD-GUT&mdash;THE SAIL WITH SEA ROVERS&mdash;THE INEBRIATED BAKER
+    OF WHITE BREAD&mdash;OLE LARSEN&mdash;THE LAAVE&mdash;HERR LANDMARK
+    AND THE HOTEL AT AAK&mdash;KJERULF THE COMPOSER&mdash;THE ROMSDAL
+    HORN&mdash;THE TROLTINDERNE&mdash;FIVA&mdash;THE MEAL HOUSE&mdash;THE
+    STEEN-SKREED&mdash;THE SOLGANG WIND&mdash;THE SHEEP BOY AND GOAT
+    HORN&mdash;SEA-FISHING&mdash;WOODWORK&mdash;CARRIOLES&mdash;HOW TO CROSS
+    A RIVER&mdash;OLD KYLE&mdash;MØLMEN CHURCH, AND THE SLEEPER’S
+    CURE&mdash;FLIES&mdash;SALMON-FISHING FROM A TINE.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_101.jpg" alt="T" /></span>O
+    those going northward Molde has especial interest for many reasons:
+    its situation is beautiful, its climate delightful, its vegetation
+    luxuriant, its flora abundant, and, as a centre to radiate from, it
+    is most convenient. To arrive there one becomes associated <i>pro tem.</i>
+    with the good ship <i>Tasso</i>. “Good ship” is used, in this instance, as
+    a term of affection among old Norwegians. In former days it was rarely
+    that any save real sportsmen or regular fishers were to be found on
+    board. Every one was known. The steward knew every one by name; the
+    captain looked forward to seeing his “regulars,” and could tell exactly
+    how much he would see of each individual passenger. Judging from the
+    weather, he could guess the number for each festive meal in the saloon,
+    and knew without a doubt who would propose to smoke a cigar on deck, or
+    one more pipe before turning in, and who would be ready to spin a good
+    yarn if there were any chance of conversation flagging. From Hull to
+    Trondhjem a fraternity existed, on condition that no one betrayed undue
+    curiosity about his fellow-traveller’s river. That condition carried
+    out, any one might kill his fish over and over <span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>again, and even add a
+    pound or two, rather than the relater should not be happy. The captain
+    of the <i>Tasso</i> was decidedly a favourite, and could the weather at all
+    times have proved as fair as the captain himself, the <i>Tasso</i> would
+    have been always crowded with passengers; for even in spite of the
+    stormy winds of the North Sea there has been such a thing as a telegram
+    for the captain, hoping he would wait for the next train, as &mdash;&mdash;
+    wanted to go by the <i>Tasso</i>. There is much sentiment about this dear
+    old vessel. Light as a cork, in a breeze she can throw you up off your
+    legs, and catch you somehow when you come down. She is lively, but that
+    is better than being driven through everything, tunnelling the long
+    seas. Besides, if the Saturday be very bad, and Saturday night too,
+    Sunday afternoon generally improves matters, and by the evening some
+    ladies venture up in the captain-cabin on deck for a little fresh air,
+    and are well looked after; for the captain himself, in spite of having
+    been up all night, comes out with <span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>his personal appearance unimpaired,
+    and buttoning his gloves, which he wears only on Sundays. He had a
+    very impressive way of buttoning the right glove, as if a great work
+    had just been completed, and the mere act would revive the passengers.
+    Still he was a thorough sailor and a great favourite, and everybody
+    regrets that he no longer commands the <i>Tasso</i>.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_102">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_102.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Landing-Place: Molde.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_103">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Molde, from above the Town.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>This vessel, which leaves Hull on Friday night, with her course
+    north-east, ploughs, or rather bruises, the North Sea until
+    Monday morning, when the first land is made, which is generally
+    Statland&mdash;bluff, wild, precipitous, and if not almost uninhabited,
+    at all events very sparsely populated. Having made this point, the
+    <i>Tasso</i>, altering her course, runs up the coast for Aalesund, before
+    reaching which the number of passengers on deck increases. Passengers
+    are always divided into two classes&mdash;the well and the unwell, or
+    “marines.” It is surprising how strongly the marines muster at this
+    point, and discover that they would have come up before <span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>if they had
+    known there was anything really worth getting up for. Not a syllable
+    do they utter about how they envied those humble people who were
+    always asking for more roast beef, and who relished bottled stout.
+    Neptune’s habit of rocking stops many a hearty meal, and keeps many a
+    visitor from Norway, levelling even the great and mighty; for even the
+    president of a learned society has been seen lying on the deck, rolled
+    up in a blanket, with the large red letters “Scandinavia” across his
+    vertebræ, helpless and mute, though his object in coming was to talk
+    Norske; but the sea god denied him the luxury until he arrived at the
+    land of Thor and Odin. Aalesund will be described afterwards.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_104">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_104.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Sea Warehouse: Molde.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The <i>Tasso</i> arrives at Molde on Monday afternoon or evening, according
+    to the run. If it is a fine evening, what a lovely sight after the
+    permanent unbroken horizon of the last three days! On the left lies
+    Molde; on the right, mountains, snow ranges, islands, and fjord
+    entrances running up to Veblungsnæs, Alfernæs, and Eikesdal. Some have
+    described <span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>Molde as a Naples; but the two places are as different as
+    is Stockholm&mdash;sometimes called the Venice of the North&mdash;from Venice
+    itself. Let each have praise for its individual beauty and grandeur,
+    but no comparison can well be made.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_105">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_105.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Flower Market: Molde.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The <i>Tasso</i> does not come alongside; the small coasting steamers do.
+    Boats, therefore, come out, when one soon sees what seamen these
+    Norsemen are; and the women are as good as the men. The principal
+    figure as well as the voice most distinctly heard is that of Jacob, the
+    polyglot and ubiquitous porter from the hotel. Molde was once famous
+    for an hotel kept by Herr Buck and family, whose kindly reception and
+    unceasing attention were a pleasure to the visitor. In front of the
+    house were honeysuckles, clustering roses, geraniums&mdash;not yet called
+    pelargoniums at Molde&mdash;wallflowers, fuchsias, and almost every kind
+    of flower. With such <span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span>good quarters, such attention, and such natural
+    beauty, how could any one be disappointed in Molde? Yet so it was;
+    one’s fancy was blighted by the footmark of civilisation&mdash;modern dress
+    had supplanted costume. The <i>taille de Paris</i> was attempted, although
+    it has not, up to this time, much reduced the general solidity of the
+    Scandinavian waist. The heads of the people are much more transformed,
+    and soon become smiling victims to the first phases of the vile taste
+    for artificial flowers, feathers, and tawdry finery. If they only knew
+    the dignity of simplicity and the charm of good silver ornaments handed
+    down for generations, they would never so debase themselves.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow78" id="i_106">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_106.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Churchyard: Molde.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Molde is almost entirely built of wooden houses painted white. In
+    the lower basement the storehouses run out over the water for some
+    distance, being built on most picturesque piles of timber, with solid
+    galleries, affording delightful peeps seaward. This warm spot, nestling
+    under the mountains, faces the south, and is naturally celebrated for
+    the vigour of its vegetation and the luxuriance of every variety of
+    floral growth, which is centred in the churchyard, where every Moldean
+    tries to outvie his neighbour in the culture of fair flowers on the
+    graves of those dear ones who have been called home. What a beautiful
+    thought is this to keep before one through life&mdash;to be called home, and
+    to look <span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>upon death as a friend, or as a schoolboy does upon his exit!
+    Happy indeed are those who can do so! It has a soothing influence,
+    which conduces to cheerfulness in old age; and what is cheerfulness in
+    old age but a looming of the immortality of the soul, as the outer case
+    begins to fade away?</p>
+
+  <p>This lovely spot has been selected as the best locality for an
+    establishment to solace the poor victims of that terrible scourge of
+    the North&mdash;leprosy. White as a leper, and shining as Gehazi, Elijah’s
+    servant&mdash;that is the aspect of Eastern leprosy. Not so in the North.
+    The features of the Northern leper become purple and hard, and the
+    feet swollen and fearfully disfigured. It is brought on by the absence
+    of vegetable diet and the constant use of salt fish. The hospital is
+    situated outside the town, on the south-west side, and is coloured
+    yellow.</p>
+
+  <p>Many routes start from Molde, and much character may be noticed
+    on board the steamers&mdash;small practical craft, with very efficient
+    captains&mdash;good seamen and remarkably obliging&mdash;a quality most
+    acceptable to the traveller. But this attention is only accorded to
+    those who adopt the axiom of the late Dr. Norman Macleod, who said the
+    best language to travel with was, “Yes, if you please,” and “No, I
+    thank you,” whether in domestic life or <i>en voyage</i>. It would conduce
+    greatly to home harmony if this were more generally adopted. It is a
+    wholesome contrast to a woodcut in <cite>Punch</cite> by that keen observer of
+    human nature, John Leech, who portrayed a Transatlantic brother holding
+    a revolver at the head of the person sitting next to him, adding only
+    the simple words, “Pass the mustard.” To return, however, to the deck
+    of the steamer.</p>
+
+  <p>The lower class in Norway chew and expectorate; the upper class
+    smoke, and some carry pipes. Carry is the correct term, for the pipe
+    belongs to the class impedimenta. As the map of France is divided into
+    departments, so may be the travelling pipe of Norway. First department,
+    the mouthpiece; next, the elastic, to ease off the roll of steamer or
+    jostle of stranger; then a huge silver tassel, generally two; then a
+    stem and a joint; and finally the bowl of meerschaum. What an <i>écume de
+    mer</i>! What a responsibility to travel with such an instrument! It is
+    quite an apparatus&mdash;worse than a <i>narghile</i> or <i>chibouque</i>: less coil,
+    but more tassel. The <span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span>bowl of the pipe is generally surmounted by a
+    huge silver cover in the form of a crown. Our woodcut gives a specimen
+    of one in the possession of an officer on a tour of inspection along
+    the coast or fjord. As he is represented with his back to the land, it
+    is only just to mention that there was some object of interest in front
+    of him.</p>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow44" id="i_108">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_108.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Coast Inspector.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>One more word for the <i>Tasso</i>. Returning from Trondhjem, she generally
+    calls at Molde. Should bad weather come on, the waiting for twenty-four
+    or forty-eight hours in constant expectation is wearying to a
+    degree. One hardly dare patronise the good baths of Molde, admirably
+    arranged as they are, so unmercifully do the jelly-fish sting; but
+    the advantages of sea-bathing are irresistible, so, in spite of being
+    stung, we indulge in a bath while waiting for the steamer, and in the
+    midst of it we hear the alarming whistle of the <i>Tasso</i>. Rapid exit
+    and hurry-skurry, in which tradition says the Tentmaster-general,
+    anxious to be first, was last, from having tried to put on his flannel
+    shirt without towelling sufficiently beforehand. Hurried as we were,
+    there was still a ceremony to go through, which could not be omitted
+    without giving offence. The bath attendant is most careful in his
+    attention to visitors, who generally give him twopence. On receiving
+    this honorarium he observes an old custom in Norway, that of shaking
+    hands and thanking the donor; so we all kept up the good old charter,
+    and received his kind wishes for our safe return to England and our
+    homes. Unquestionably we carried with us delightful recollections of
+    the kindness of the people, and especially of the <i>bönder</i> folk&mdash;many
+    souvenirs to remind us of localities visited, and very deep impressions
+    of the charm of their simple life, undisturbed, as it seemed, by those
+    little envyings, strivings, emulations, and jealousies which, like
+    mosquitoes, sting and irritate, to the misery of their unhappy victims.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_109f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_109f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Veblungsnæs: Romsdal.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_109f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span></p>
+
+  <p>Surely the man who loves God, worships Him through nature, and traces
+    his majesty in creation, would enjoy the spot depicted in the woodcut,
+    where the village of Veblungsnæs is shown close to the edge of the
+    fjord, backed by the snow range. What a neighbourhood to have round
+    one! And what a contrast to the idea conveyed by the same word in
+    modern acceptation! Here the sea-water of the fjord washes the edges of
+    the hamlet, in many parts bluffly repelled by huge and mighty façades
+    of rocks; there a ravine terminates in a waterfall into the sea itself.
+    Valleys branch off in all directions, excursions are numerous, and many
+    new ones still remain unexplored. The high fjeld is easy of access
+    from Veblungsnæs, and real bear valleys are near, where Bruin exists
+    and has met with his death at the hands of our countrymen. Natives
+    have offered to go on the terms of “no bear, no pay.” This betokens
+    an amount of practical confidence which is a prominent feature in all
+    bargains between Scandinavians and our folk. Bruin is still a terror
+    in some parts, and especially to the <i>sæter</i> people, or <i>piger</i>. For
+    instance, near Isterdal the following circumstance occurred to a
+    friend:&mdash;Scene, lonely <i>sæter</i>. English traveller approaching. <i>Pige</i>
+    appears at window imploring help and beseeching traveller’s assistance.
+    A bear has been down, and killed a cow. The <i>pige</i> positively dare
+    not come out until the Englishman shoots the bear that killed the cow
+    that frightened the <i>pige</i>. Now comes the sad finale. The dead cow
+    could not be found, neither could the bear; and even had the latter
+    been discovered, the traveller had no rifle to shoot him with. Still
+    there can be no doubt of there being many yet left to be laid low by
+    our enthusiastic fellow-hunters in days to come. Veblungsnæs is hardly
+    appreciated by travellers, who are generally so bent on rushing forward
+    to the well-known comforts of Aak, that they are blind to the beauty
+    <i>en route</i>. Perhaps an innate longing to get away from villages makes
+    them anxious to dive at once to the more placid and less populated
+    parts. This place is generally reached by those who come from Molde
+    by steamer, in which case the entrance to the Romsdal fjord is a
+    grand subject, affording the most magnificent mountain and sea-scape
+    combined. Happier far is the traveller who goes in a small sailing
+    boat, with a good south-wester behind <span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>him, a tight sheet, and the
+    water hissing away all round her, thrown off from her bows and rushing
+    from her stern, as the crew lie down singing good Norske songs, some of
+    which are as long as Gaelic ones; and that is saying a good deal.</p>
+
+  <p>Veblungsnæs is close to the mouth of the Rauma, which rises in Lesje
+    Vand, and after forcing its way through rocks and every kind of
+    obstruction, finally finishes its course among peaceful sand plains.
+    The village can boast of many good things. First, the church, or
+    <i>kirke</i>, then the post-office, telegraph office, station for carrioles,
+    a compulsory school, a baker of white bread, <i>præstegaard</i>, and a pier,
+    to say nothing of the store or shop. Having made a bouquet of these
+    charms, let us refer to them <i>seriatim</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>The church is the old wooden structure from Gryten which was buried
+    in the sand, and stood, as shown by the spire on the right hand side
+    of the illustration, looking from Næss. It was moved about fifty
+    years ago, and at that time was painted red, having only of late
+    years assumed the more sombre hue which now characterizes its roof
+    and spire&mdash;namely, black. The interior is plain fir; the pulpit is
+    high up over the altar, and of a general light blue tone; while on
+    the right side, on the ground, is the bishop’s stall, panelled up to
+    the galleries, which go round the church. The candelabrum that hangs
+    in the centre from the ceiling is very elegant in design, and made of
+    pinchbeck; it is dated 1770. The silver candlesticks on the altar, one
+    on each side, are large and massive; these are lighted three times a
+    year&mdash;Christmas, Easter, and at the end of the forty days. The first
+    priest appointed to Gryten commenced his work in 1514.</p>
+
+  <p>Here we saw a funeral, which was largely attended, as the church is
+    on a main road. The coffin was followed by seven <i>stolkjærs</i> and many
+    people, some of whom had driven on before; but there was no clergyman
+    to officiate.</p>
+
+  <p>The post-office is kept in a very unofficial way. Calling one day, we
+    found that the <i>post kontouress</i> (who, by the way, is a very superior
+    person) was not at home, having left her official duties to assist
+    at four o’clock tea&mdash;<i>société</i>. The postman is picturesque, with an
+    enormous portmanteau,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> with irons, chains, and such fastenings, to
+    assist in the protection of which he carries a horn and a revolver (see
+    p. 87). He goes from this office to Dombaas, so that sometimes, from
+    the difference of elevation, he will sledge one part regularly, and
+    carriole the other. Before leaving the post-office we will thank the
+    <i>chef</i> for all her kind attentions to us and many of our countrymen.</p>
+
+  <p>The telegraph office is admirable. English spoken, and every
+    information.</p>
+
+  <p>The carriole station is at Herr Onsum’s, who seems to be the squire
+    of Veblungsnæs. Here <i>tout est Onsum</i>&mdash;hotel, boats, land, and store.
+    Every one has a good word for the member of the Storthing, Herr Onsum,
+    and his musical and well-educated family.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_111">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_111.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Carriole crossing a River.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The school is, throughout Norway, for all denominations, and compulsory.</p>
+
+  <p>As to the baker of white bread, this personage is mentioned because
+    white-bread bakers are few and far between, and a valuable adjunct
+    to Fiva, where we stopped. Twice a week “our daughter” drove in from
+    Fiva to the baker at Veblungsnæs, about nine miles in and nine out.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>
+    Sometimes the white bread was not ready, and after a nine-mile carriole
+    drive, with a long ford across the river, it is rather trying to go
+    back empty-handed. Occasionally there were additions, such as <i>rød
+    fiske</i>, or red sea-fish, like very large mullet, hanging from the
+    carriole, and picturesque in colour, to say nothing of odd baskets
+    banging about. We must some time have a sketch of “The Return from
+    Market through the Ford, with the Skyd-gut Boy behind.” Our daughter’s
+    boy was rather an old one, Ole Fiva as he called himself&mdash;the <i>gamel
+    skyd-gut</i>. The occasional one was very young, and very nice indeed:
+    as he did not understand English, his answers resolved themselves
+    almost always into the “blushing grin” of good-hearted innocence. At
+    last “mee boy Matthias”&mdash;pronounced <i>Matteeus</i>&mdash;found an outlet for
+    his feelings, and brought red berries, or <i>tyttebær</i> in his cap; and
+    when he found them accepted, and that his offering gave us pleasure,
+    he grinned and blushed more than ever. But why were we not sure of
+    getting our white bread when we sent so far for it, hail, rain, or
+    shine? For this reason. One day there was a glorious breeze out in the
+    fjord, the white horses were showing their crests, while the gulls and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span>
+    terns were sweeping round us. What a day for a sail! Herr Onsum had
+    a good sea-boat, and would be sure to lend it to us if we asked. We
+    did. My wife, daughter, self, Ole Fiva, with three Norwegians, full of
+    sea-rovers’ expeditions and sagas, for a crew, were soon on board. As
+    the craft was lying by the landing-place her bowsprit naturally rose up
+    and down as the waves heaved her hull, when a voice came from the end
+    of it: “Ole, Ole! Spørge, Ole, spørge!” Ole took no notice, and again
+    came the same appeal from a figure with a white cap and jacket. It
+    was the baker of the white bread, hanging on with a desperate effort,
+    asking permission to go for a sail with us instead of getting our <i>vid
+    brod</i> ready for us to take back. Judging from the uncertain movements
+    of the applicant, it is to be feared the supply of white bread is
+    equally precarious at Veblungsnæs.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_112">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Næss.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Our view of Næss is taken as looking up the Rauma River. On the left
+    are the Vengetinderne, the Karlstrotind, and the Romsdal Horn over the
+    valley, down which flows the river Rauma by Aak; the centre peak is the
+    Mid-dag Horn; and on the right is the Isterdal valley, with the Biskop
+    and Drönningen towering above. The little spire of Gryten is inserted
+    here to show where it stood before its sand immersion and removal to
+    its present resting-place. From this point one obtains a grand view and
+    general idea of the immense sand and grit deposit collected here from
+    the two valleys of the Rauma and Ister, the greater portion of which
+    was ground off the sides of the valleys by the great glaciers when the
+    glacial period was in full action, and before all the mighty ice giants
+    melted at the presence of the new visitor to the coasts of Norway, the
+    gulf stream. All down the valleys the rocks are worn and ground round
+    by the <i>débris</i> in the ice as it passed down. Only some such phenomenon
+    as that referred to could have so raised the temperature and worked
+    such changes.</p>
+
+  <p>On the following page an old friend is shown at work by the
+    riverside&mdash;Ole Larsen, a shoemaker of simple habits and small
+    <i>clientèle</i>, but very large family, about eighteen in number. Unlike
+    many of our followers of St. Crispin, he begins <i>ab initio</i>, with
+    the skin as removed from the animal, and is now getting the hair off
+    previously to tanning.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span>
+    It can well be imagined that Ole Larsen does
+    not do a large business in the course of the financial year, and the
+    family seldom get meat, their whole nourishment being <i>brod og smör</i>,
+    bunkers, and cow comforts.</p>
+
+  <p>The Norwegian farm-building is called a <i>laave</i>, and is so constructed
+    that the hay-carts can drive right in under cover, and be unladen at
+    convenience: underneath are generally stables and a cow-house. Such a
+    <i>laave</i> as the one shown on p. 116 will hold three ponies and about
+    twelve cows. During the summer the cows all go up to the <i>sæter</i>, and
+    about September return to the valleys, preparatory to their winter
+    session, when, poor things, they are generally shut up from October
+    right through the winter, till spring comes with all her brightness,
+    and releases these long-pent prisoners from their thraldom. It is an
+    amusing sight to see them first at liberty when the snow has melted
+    in the valley. They gallop, kick, frisk, career, and chase each
+    other; and the ponies join in the festivities with the cows and the
+    goats, and rejoice together for a time, until all finally agree that
+    there is nothing like good quiet steady grazing, to which they betake
+    themselves.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_114">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_114.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Ole Larsen, our Shoemaker.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_115.jpg" alt="H" /></span>ERE
+    seems centred all that is grand in nature, bold
+    in outline, interesting in geological formation, with the constant
+    registers of the ice passage down the valley, as it existed before the
+    glacial period was melted away by the influence of the gulf stream.
+    The whole valley suggests the idea of the crust of the earth having
+    cracked in cooling, the fissures forming these immense valleys. At the
+    entrance of the latter, as the river approaches the fjords or the sea,
+    large plateaux of sand have been deposited in past ages, and through
+    these sandhills the river forces its way, very frequently altering
+    its course, until finally it reaches the sea. These sand plateaux or
+    ridges are very distinctly shown at the entrance of the Rauma River, a
+    little above Veblungsnæs, and being exposed to the winds through the
+    two valleys&mdash;Romsdalen and Isterdalen&mdash;a change on the dry sand is
+    perceptibly going on at all times. This is especially to be noticed
+    at a spot called Gryten. In the maps it is marked as a church, and
+    a church there once was in the position indicated; but, as we have
+    already observed, it was so sanded up that it was taken to pieces and
+    removed to Veblungsnæs away from the sand-storms, and just bordering on
+    the fjord.</p>
+
+  <p>The tourist of the promiscuous class is sure to rejoice in this part of
+    Romsdal, as here is situated an old farmhouse, now adapted to modern
+    customs, and purveying comforts of all kinds not generally found in
+    Norway. A friend, visiting this happy spot some twenty years ago,
+    was kindly received by the proprietor, Herr Landmark, who is still
+    spared to conduce more than ever to the increasing wants of Norwegian
+    travellers. By degrees the farmhouse has developed, and is now, with
+    its new <i>annexe</i>, generally spoken of as the “Hotel at Aak.” Still,
+    how different is it from the modern idea of such things! Very much of
+    the leaven yet remains&mdash;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> the same kindly reception, and the <i>likkelig
+    reise</i> to the parting guest. Many ask regretfully as they leave the
+    entrance of the house&mdash;in itself a picture: up four wooden steps to
+    a stage with two small tables and seats&mdash;where such is to be found;
+    others, perhaps just arrived, feast their eyes on the view over the
+    Rauma towards the Drönningen and Biskop, in Isterdal; while others,
+    again, anxiously watch for the first peep of the Romsdal Horn. Over the
+    door and by the side clusters generally a glorious honeysuckle, which
+    grows most profusely, and adds much to the picturesqueness. Inside, to
+    the left, is the <i>salle à manger</i>, out of which leads a small room,
+    which is, I believe, now generally left for any ladies stopping in
+    the house. Not much monotony is there, but many delightful evenings,
+    with a little music,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span> and sometimes an exceedingly good rendering of
+    Mendelssohn, Schumann, Offenbach, or even the severe but sterling
+    Beethoven.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_116">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_116.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Farm at Aak.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>One evening, after a very earnest attempt on the part of our coterie to
+    sing some Norwegian songs by Kjerulf, it was discovered that amongst
+    those listening outside was the brother of the composer, Professor
+    Kjerulf, now of the Geological chair at Christiania. He expressed
+    himself as being highly gratified with the English appreciation of
+    his brother’s undoubted talent. All this musician’s work has great
+    individuality and crispness, and his airs always “go” well. Hear his
+    “Brudefærden.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100">
+    <div class="mt10"><span class="xlarge">BRUDEFÆRDEN I HARDANGER.</span><br />SUNG AT BUVALDEN AND THORBU-SÆTER.</div>
+    <div class="attl">Words by <span class="smcap">A. Munch</span>.</div>
+    <div class="attr">Music by <span class="smcap">H. Kjerulf</span>.</div>
+    <img class="w100" src="images/music_117-118.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="center-container">
+    <div class="poetry">
+      <div class="stanza">
+        <div class="i0">Der aander en tin-dren-de Som-mer-luft varmt o-ver Har-danger fjords Van-</div>
+        <div class="i0">de, hvor højt op mod Him-len i blaa-lig Duft de mæg-ti-ge Fjel-de</div>
+        <div class="i0">stan-de; det skin-ner fra Bræ, det grøn-nes fra Li, sit Hel-lig-dags-</div>
+        <div class="i0"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span>skrud staar E-nenkæde i; thi se - - -, o-ver grønkla-re Bøl-ge hjem-</div>
+        <div class="i0">gu-der et Bru-de-føl-ge. O-ho! aahej! la la la&nbsp; la la la la la</div>
+        <div class="i0">O-ho! aahej! la la la&nbsp; la la la, thi se, o-ver grønkla-re Bøl-ge hjem-</div>
+        <div class="i0">gli-der et Bru-do føl - - - - - ge. O-ho &mdash;&mdash;</div>
+        <div class="i0">&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash;</div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <div class="center mt2 mb2 epub-hide"><a href="music/brudefaerden.midi">[Listen]</a></div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_119f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_119f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Troltinderne by Moonlight.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_119f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span></p>
+
+  <p>The previous woodcut shows the north side of the house and
+    farm-buildings. The <i>stabur</i>, or provision-house, is there, with the
+    bell above. This bell is rung regularly for the farm labourers to come
+    in, as they are always fed by the <i>bönder</i>, and the meals, though
+    very simple, seem frequent. It was at this good hostelry that Lady Di
+    Beauclerc stopped and described the French count who was in search of
+    good “chase” of reindeer there, and the lady whose pursuit was <i>le
+    saumon</i>, and who had a fly of the same colour as her costume. One
+    becomes imperceptibly very curiously impressed by an association of
+    ideas. Several people have mentioned that they felt rather surprised
+    that they had never seen the count with his French hunting horn, nor
+    the lady. There is still an idea that their ghosts linger about the
+    spot, waiting, we suppose, for the reindeer and the salmon to come to
+    them. The friend who was so kindly received here some twenty years ago
+    was offered a little fishing by Herr Landmark. A portion of the river
+    Rauma runs in front under the house, and the good sport made the happy
+    fisherman rabid for life on salmon: he has been to Norway almost every
+    year since, and taken many with him.</p>
+
+  <p>A few miles above Aak, leaving the sand plateau behind, we enter the
+    Romsdal valley proper, with the Romsdal Horn rearing its grand peak
+    on the left. The Troltinderne, or the Witches, is one of the most
+    remarkable groups of fantastically jagged rocks in Norway, ever varying
+    in effect, the mist wreathing and most delicately veiling or throwing
+    a film over them, which makes them more gigantic and weird than ever.
+    The outline of the peaks when clear is very serrated indeed, and with
+    the Northern people a fair share of superstition attaches to them.
+    These two elements have brought about the tradition that the series of
+    <i>aiguilles</i> represent a wedding party going to the church. First, the
+    <i>spilleman</i> (fiddler), then the <i>kanderman</i> (best man) with a tankard;
+    the next large peak is the priest; then come two peaks, turning away as
+    it were one from another: these were the unhappy bride and bridegroom,
+    who foolishly and injudiciously quarrelled. Next come the father and
+    mother. But the most curious character yet remains. By the side of a
+    sharp point is a mass of rock, which certainly does look very much like
+    a figure: this is the disconsolate lover, who, seeing that the bride<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>
+    and bridegroom had already quarrelled, makes a frantic rush to cut in
+    and carry off the lady. This must have been the precise moment when
+    they were all turned into stone, and so they remain, a warning to all
+    frequenters of the valley. That the peasants believe in spirits and
+    “little people” living on the fjeld, even in this year of grace, cannot
+    be denied, as they say they do; but why they should think that these
+    little people have blue heads I cannot imagine.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_120">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_120.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Meal House: Fiva, Romsdal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Exactly opposite to the Romsdal Horn, on the other side of the valley,
+    is an immense <i>couloir</i>, originally an enormous landslip, leaving the
+    perpendicular sides of the Troltinderne to gradually crumble and fall
+    down, the finer stuff and <i>débris</i> filling up the interstices between
+    the bigger rocks. After frost the thunder of the falling rocks and
+    stones into this terrific shoot will last as long as thirty seconds,
+    and the nightfalls create constant alarm to new-corners; whereas the
+    <i>elve-wakker</i>, or river-keeper, merely remarks, “The old ladies are
+    quarrelling,” or “The old ladies have finished <i>aftenmad</i> and are
+    throwing out the bones.” Still, this brings about a new range of
+    thought to a person who has never observed portions <span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span>of the earth’s
+    surface in motion. After seeing a huge rock, the size of a stucco-faced
+    villa, hop down the side of a mountain, there arise a certain
+    impressiveness and grandeur unknown before. About once a year there is
+    an important landslip in Norway&mdash;hardly more. Most of the loose rocks
+    have their regular grooves, and the peasants know how to avoid them;
+    still, as the vast country is so sparsely inhabited, many must occur
+    which do not “get into the papers.” A curious instance of the effect
+    of a small landslip occurred in this valley to an old man personally
+    known to us. A slip came down behind his house, of good timber stuff,
+    and fortunately stopped just short of it. He and his wife decided to
+    leave, and go to live at a place called Aalesund; they did so for a
+    twelvemonth, after which time they became home-sick, and, chancing
+    all further damage, returned to the old house, where they were living
+    very happily last year. In another part a description will be given
+    of an important <i>steen-skreed</i>&mdash;a scene of terrible destruction and
+    considerable interest.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_121">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_121.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Laave at Fiva: Romsdal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The centre of the valley has two or three good farms, highly productive
+    for Norway, and presenting a very curious appearance to a foreigner<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>
+    when the corn is cut, as the sheaves are stuck upon a pole, sometimes
+    five, sometimes ten, with the head facing the sun, and, as the sun
+    works round, the heads of corn are kept turned to it, so as to get the
+    greatest amount of heat, which is an advantage when the peasants arrive
+    at the happy time for carrying their corn, as they have only to pull up
+    the stakes with the five or ten sheaves on them, and they are easily
+    carried. Whilst on the subject of corn-drying, it is a most remarkable
+    thing that during the fine weather of the short Norwegian summer the
+    wind helps materially by blowing what the natives call a <i>sol-gang</i>:
+    the wind goes round with the sun all day, beginning to blow from the
+    east in the morning, clue south at mid-day, and north-west in the
+    evening.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_122">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_122.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Rauma River Boat.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Having paid especial notice to the Trols, we must turn to the Horn,
+    which rises on the left side: 4,000 feet is the height of it, and it
+    goes sheer up out of the valley; in fact, one morning, as we were
+    sitting by the river, a carriole came hurrying by, and a voice from
+    it inquired, “Where’s the Horn?” The old fisherman with me stared at
+    the flying folk in search of information, and pointed straight up over
+    our heads. The summit has <span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span>never been reached yet, either by the
+    Government engineers who surveyed the country, or by Alpine men, who
+    have all given up the Aiguille Dru as hopeless, or by captive balloon,
+    which has been proposed. A very likely party from a yacht made a bold
+    attempt at it, but even some of these looked upon it as a hopeless
+    case, from the fact that there is a lean-to on a huge shoulder on the
+    north-west side. Perhaps the most beautiful time of all to see this
+    wild valley is after the first sprinkling of snow, when the tops are
+    powdered, which happens when the “iron days” come, the first snow
+    falling about August 20th. After a little sharp frost the weather
+    recovers from its first shudder, but by the 29th of September all is
+    snow again down to the river. Patches of old snow are always lying
+    in the valley, even during the hottest summer, but much more in the
+    <i>couloir</i>; and, from the immense scale of everything here, the real
+    quantity is most difficult to appreciate.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_123f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_123f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Romsdal Snow.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_123f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figright illow22" id="i_123">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_123.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p>At the foot of this Romsdal Horn is the Rauma itself, the first fall
+    caused by the rocks thrown down when the <i>couloir</i> was originally
+    formed; and between the river and the base of the Horn runs the road
+    through the valley to Gudbransdalen. There are a few sheep here in the
+    advanced farms, and these, like all animals in Norge, are wonderfully
+    docile. For some time we heard sounds of music at a distance, but
+    could never discover either the music or the musician, until one day
+    a boy was found playing in a barn, or <i>laave</i>, on a goat’s horn with
+    six holes in it, and with a reed mouthpiece. The sound is quaint. This
+    instrument was intended and used for the amusement of the sheep, and
+    the boy’s mission was to play to them on it. The sheep and goats here
+    always follow instead of being driven; and, like all other animals in
+    this country, they are remarkably tame, never exhibiting the least
+    signs of fear. This is another pleasant feature resulting from the
+    kindliness of the people and their domestic happiness. Long may both
+    remain to them!</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The sight of the square-sailed craft with one mast and a bold rampant
+    black stem at once shuts out all intrusive thoughts of civilisation,
+    for <span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span>these same vessels&mdash;relics of very old days&mdash;are seldom seen
+    anywhere save on the wild shores of Heligoland, working down to Bergen,
+    or still farther south round by the coast, and up to the town of
+    Christiania. These craft are mostly from the north of Trondhjem: their
+    lines are very fine indeed forward, the after part, with quarter-deck,
+    forming a kind of citadel for the captain. As these vessels come from
+    the coast opposite to the Lofoden, they are closely allied with the
+    fishery of that district&mdash;the great national fishing ground of Norway,
+    to which rushes every able-bodied fisherman from Bergen northwards
+    as far as the North Cape. In the month of February the fish are
+    in force&mdash;principally early arrivals; and ultimately such immense
+    quantities are gathered together that tradition has handed down to us
+    as a fact that there are times when a deep-sea line will hardly sink
+    through them. Lines and nets are both worked with the greatest system.
+    The take is generally tremendous, and the results lucrative. The fish
+    are cured as stock-fish until April, when they are split, salted, and
+    dried on the rocks like Scotch cod. It is a simple process to gut and
+    hang up these cod-fish two and two across poles; not even salt is
+    used&mdash;nothing but the sea breezes, sun, and wind. Many years ago the
+    takes were even more enormous than at present, amounting to as much as
+    16,000,000 fish, or 8,000 tons dried, to say nothing of the cod-liver
+    oil and roe; but when we consider that these fish are gradually
+    dispersed over Europe, even 8,000 tons would soon go during the period
+    of a continental Lent. About April most of the fishers return home, and
+    are ready for any chance of herrings, which are as great a blessing to
+    the Norwegians as to the Scotch and Irish.</p>
+
+  <p>There was a very striking instance of an old custom in one of the
+    outlying fjords, where the fashion of bygone centuries is still
+    faithfully kept up. At the entrance of the fjord is a boat, in which is
+    stationed the watcher, with a horn or bugle. As soon as the herrings
+    are descried the watcher, or rather the look-out, stands up in the bow
+    of the boat and sounds his horn. The notes are quickly caught by the
+    anxious longing ears on the beach, the boats put off, and soon the
+    herrings feel that they are “fish out of water,” and will ere long
+    be adding much to the happiness and support of all the <i>bönder</i> and
+    agricultural peasantry of the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_124f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_124f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Making for the Fjord.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_124f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p>
+
+  <p>Near our herring scene was a well-to-do but scattered hamlet, for
+    it could scarcely be called a village; and, having visited some of
+    the good people, who were much interested in the foreigners&mdash;N.B.,
+    it is a curious sensation when it first dawns upon the mind of an
+    Englishman that he is a regular foreigner in the eyes of others&mdash;we
+    came to the conclusion that, all in all, the Norwegian <i>bönder</i>, as
+    a class, are more comfortably provided with the good things of this
+    world than any other of similar position. Their outdoor life brings
+    sound health; they work hard, especially the women; and their reward
+    is abundance. Their farms produce all they require to eat, drink, and
+    even wear. In the fine weather they work for internal comforts; in
+    the bad winter weather they provide for external wants in the form of
+    carding, combing, and weaving in their houses, and making <i>vadmel</i>,
+    or homespun&mdash;a material in which “shoddy” is unknown, and for which
+    “everlasting wear” is the best name. They have their ponies, their
+    boats, a wholesome love of God, and veneration for true, practical
+    religion. Their houses are of their own building&mdash;sound, solid, and
+    warm. There is no money greed amongst them, until spoilt by tasting
+    the fruit of the tree of civilisation, and then the reaction is all
+    the worse. Another great blessing that remains to them is, that there
+    is no tendency to extravagance, no wish to launch out in competition
+    with their neighbour. A peaceful, contented, simple life seems to them
+    the <i>summum bonum</i>: this they possess, and are careful not to part
+    with. Until savings-banks were introduced they really had no use for
+    money, and when they acquired silver, instead of investing it, they
+    had something new made of it, in this respect strongly resembling the
+    old Dutch farmers, who were sometimes quite at a loss to know what
+    they should have made next. The latter, indeed, went so far as to have
+    candle-boxes, as well as other domestic utensils, of silver. Again,
+    Norwegian servants are in good relationship with their masters and
+    mistresses: much kindly feeling exists, coupled with a sense of duty
+    and a proper regard for relative position, which is never forgotten.</p>
+
+  <p>We have mentioned the “home-madeness” of everything in a Norwegian
+    farmer’s house; but we have yet to refer to the woodwork supply,
+    namely, sledges, agricultural implements, <i>stolkjærs</i>, rakes, scythe
+    handles, carrioles, tankards, teenas (written <i>tine</i>), butter-boxes,
+    and bedsteads.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>
+    These last-mentioned items are the worst things
+    produced in the country. The beds are all too short&mdash;never are they
+    long enough. It seems as if the Norwegian has not quite grown out of
+    the idea that in sleep the body should be bent up with the knees to
+    the chin, and in the Isle of Skye tradition assigns to the Norsemen
+    certain stone graves composed of nearly square slabs. The only way in
+    which a tall traveller in Norway can avoid pushing his feet through
+    the footboard is by bending his body up. The best carrioles are built
+    at Drammen and Christiania, but they are advanced specimens, with
+    springs; and springs are considered a little foppish, as well as liable
+    to break, length of shaft being all the spring required. When these
+    vehicles have to go on to steamers or large boats&mdash;a very frequent
+    necessity, as the whole seaboard is constantly incised by fjords and
+    arms of the sea&mdash;it is usual to take off the wheels, when the body is
+    soon removed. Where rivers have to be crossed, and a small boat only
+    can be procured, the best way is to bring the latter side on to the
+    carriole, place a plank with one end on <i>terra firma</i>, and the other
+    on the gunwale of the boat, where the wheel of the carriole nearest to
+    the shore should ultimately go. The object of this is to run the wheel
+    along on this plank to ship the carriole in the boat. This done, there
+    is still a difficult part to be performed: the river has to be crossed,
+    and if once the balance is lost, all is over. The rush of the river
+    is very strong in parts, but even a kind of race makes no difference.
+    A pull on one side, then a shoot and a pull on the other, and smooth
+    water is reached, safety insured, and the carriole is over. Sometimes
+    a river may be forded, but great care should be taken, as the want of
+    local knowledge may in a moment cause a loss of life, or at all events
+    a ducking.</p>
+
+  <p>We were once fording a river when Old Kyle, our blind dog, was
+    travelling very comfortably in a dog-bag, or <i>hund sac</i>, under the
+    carriole. The excitement and novelty of the ford made us forget our old
+    pet, and the first hint we had of his discomfort was the sorry sight of
+    the dog vainly endeavouring to stem the current, while the only way of
+    recovering him was by wading back. The carriole is used for everything;
+    even the post-carrier is a carriole-driver, and is provided with a
+    huge leather bag or portmanteau, with an iron rod running through it,
+    and padlocked at the end. The postman <span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span>carries a revolver, more as a
+    staff of office or official status than anything else, for no one ever
+    hears of such a thing as a robbery in this part of the world. The last
+    few years have brought about a very great facility of communication in
+    Norway, for which all travellers are much indebted to the energy of the
+    Government. One can telegraph to any part of Norway for tenpence, and
+    the stations are numerous&mdash;surprisingly so, when the extent of country
+    and sparseness of population are considered; and for English travellers
+    the convenience is very great, because almost all the telegraph-station
+    masters speak and write English well.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_127">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_127.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Shipping a Carriole.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The woodcut (see <a href="#Page_55">page 55</a>), with the sea-houses close to the water and
+    <i>jægt</i> lying close in, shows the character of the country round that
+    beautiful spot in the Hardanger fjord generally known as Rosendal,
+    a place of great interest to the historian as the last seat of the
+    Norwegian nobility. Nestling in a wood on the rising ground beyond the
+    seashore lies this baronial residence, the home of the “last of the
+    barons.” Baron Rosenkrone still lives there, and in this secluded spot
+    art has been cherished and loved, for Rosendal possesses a collection
+    of pictures which is considered <span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span>the finest in Norway. Who would
+    expect, after trudging for nine hours over the snow expanses of the
+    Folgefond, and rapidly descending on the Hardanger fjord, to find there
+    such examples of highly civilised life?</p>
+
+  <p>Close to this point is the island of Varalsoe, famous for its sulphur
+    mines. It lies out of the regular beaten track, but is sometimes
+    visited by the <i>Argo</i> when the steamer is ordered to call for a
+    freight. On such occasions the vessel is naturally light, and the first
+    shoot of ore sent into the hold from the shipping pier above is, of
+    a truth, a shock to the strongest nerves; the rattle and bang of the
+    first few waggon or truck loads would startle any one, and make him
+    fancy they would go through the ship’s bottom and sink her. Not so,
+    however: the people here understand their work, and it is not by any
+    means the first time they have shot ore into an empty hold. May it not
+    be the last!</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img xsmall illow25" id="i_128"><img src="images/i_128.jpg" alt="T" /><br />
+    <i>Grave-board, Mølmen Churchyard.</i></span>HE
+    Gudbransdalen valley is characterized by an
+    immense <i>vand</i>, or lake, which is the source of the two rivers Rauma
+    and Logen, the former running south-east, and the latter north-west
+    into the Christiania fjord. Coming up from the Rauma valley, it was
+    twilight as we reached the plateau of this upper valley, lying about
+    4,000 feet above the sea&mdash;a vast mass of far-stretching moorland,
+    with heather, matted cotoneaster, and every variety of berry, in all
+    the prismatic colour of the west coast of Scotland, but more vast,
+    mysterious, and weird; and like witches looming moodily away from
+    anything with life, we came ever and anon on some bleached relic of the
+    grandeur of those noble Scotch firs which now seem fast fading away
+    into mere skeletons and dried bones, the fibre in many cases appearing
+    twisted like the strands of a rope, as though the dissolution had been
+    one of agony and torture.</p>
+
+  <p>Soon after passing a monolith supposed to have been erected to the
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span>memory of Sinclair and his Scots we approach Mølmen. Judging from
+    its appearance on the map, any one would fancy it to be a town. Such,
+    however, is not the case, for it merely consists of a church school,
+    open on alternate Sundays, and a station, or farm, for the convenience
+    of travellers. Within the last few years this station has greatly
+    improved. We arrived late in the evening, and, feeling very chilly,
+    huddled up to the fireplace. As we inquired from the <i>pige</i> what
+    <i>aftenmad</i> we were likely to obtain, from the depths of the dimness
+    of darkness muffled peals came from under a heap of “somethings” in a
+    long parallelogramic case, but really a bed, containing the mistress of
+    the house, and the muffled peals were to summon a supper for us, and
+    quickly. So delighted were we get it, that we said “Tak for mad” before
+    we began, instead of waiting till we had finished.</p>
+
+  <p>The church is of wood, larger than most Norwegian churches, and has a
+    spire with four turrets, each with an elaborate weathercock. Mølmen
+    must at one time have had weathercock on the brain, for there is one
+    at the end of the roof, another on the top of the spire and on each of
+    the turrets, and even one on the lych gate. This crop of ironwork is
+    accounted for by the fact of there having been iron works at Lesje,
+    some seven miles farther to the eastward. Passing through the lych
+    gate, which is ponderous, the grave-boards attract attention from their
+    variety; one in particular had the novel feature of a weathercock on
+    the top, and at the back might be seen quite a contrast in sentiment&mdash;a
+    small simple iron cross firmly mortised into the solid rock.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_129f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_129f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Interior of Mølmen Church.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_129f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Entering the church, the general appearance is most striking, very
+    quaint old carving, rudely painted&mdash;most comically rudely painted,
+    especially on the rood screen, which is above&mdash;running from the pulpit
+    to the two pillars in the centre, through which the altar is seen. The
+    church floor is strewn with juniper tips, and the altar covered with
+    a white linen cloth, whereon were two large candlesticks, which are
+    lighted in the great festivals. The panels of the altar are painted in
+    rather good colour, the back of it being of a slate colour; and, on the
+    right side of it, standing back, is the carved stall for the use of
+    the bishop when he visits the district. On the rood screen, over the
+    centre, are the arms of King Christian V., with supporters, and above
+    these a large but very <span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span>uncouth figure of the Saviour on the cross,
+    with <span class="smcap">i. h. s.</span> above. On each side is a figure rudely carved
+    and painted, as is the case with the pulpit. There are traces, too, of
+    the delightful annual custom of these good people, who, when the summer
+    bursts suddenly and joyfully upon them, and the flowers come rapidly
+    out, cull the earliest, and take them to the church as first-fruits of
+    thankful joy. After viewing the front of the altar we went round to the
+    back of it&mdash;the Sanctum. This was a treat. There we found old silver
+    chalices and curious cases for the sacred wafers; for these good people
+    consider the form of worship immaterial, if the spirit be sound. The
+    size of the wafer is about one inch and a quarter in diameter.</p>
+
+  <p>A very fine old vestment is still worn for the communion; it is richly
+    brocaded, with a large purple cross on the back, and in the centre
+    of this is a brass crucifix. The verger said it was a pity to have a
+    new one until this was worn out. It certainly wears well, for it has
+    been in constant use ever since the Reformation. The great feature,
+    however, has yet to be noticed. A curious instrument is used as a
+    persuader during the service: it consists of a pole, painted red, about
+    eight feet long, with a knob at each end. On inquiring the use of this
+    instrument and for what ceremonial, the verger, with surprise at our
+    ignorance, said, “To wake the sleepers.” How? “Here, sirs,” continued
+    he, placing his hand on his waistcoat, as indicative of the best place
+    to tilt at effectually. The reader will be glad to know that the knobs
+    did not betray much sign of wear.</p>
+
+  <p>We must now return to the station, which is associated with greyling
+    in the river, and wood-carving executed during the winter months in
+    the farmhouses&mdash;spoons, bellows, tankards, mangel brats, and culinary
+    implements. It was our good fortune to meet at Mølmen a delightful
+    Austrian&mdash;his grey and green jacket informed us of that fact&mdash;but his
+    general information was an oasis for travellers. A great botanist,
+    it was delightful to go out with him, especially as he was, at that
+    moment, perfectly mad about saxifrages and the flora of Norway. Then,
+    again, “flies.” He had been up the North Cape, to the Namsen and other
+    large rivers, and some one had given him a few Namsen “Butcher’s”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>
+    salmon flies of immense size. These he showed to us; and we, finding
+    him so interested, asked him if he would like to see our collection
+    of <em>natural</em> flies. “Certainly.” The flies we exhibited were the
+    mosquitoes we had shut up between the leaves of note-books when the
+    flies had been thickest in our tents on a warm evening. “Ah!” exclaimed
+    our Austrian, “ten tousand of dose fellows did I swallow at the North
+    Cape, and they bite all the way going down.” Happily, however, he had
+    survived. We also met here a distinguished Prussian&mdash;large forefinger
+    ring, <i>très Prussien</i>&mdash;whose favourite exercise at the festive board
+    astonished us. Mountain strawberries at Mølmen are a treat, and at
+    dinner we had some. Our aristocratic foreigner plunged them into a
+    tumbler of sparkling wine, but alas! how did he extract them? The
+    Count must have been in a lancer regiment, for with a tent-peg action
+    he tried to pig-stick each strawberry and raise it to his mouth with
+    his toothpick, persevering until the tumbler was emptied, and the last
+    strawberry pierced and entombed.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_131">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_131.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Norwegian Salmon Stage.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>In passing along the shores of the fjords a kind of stage may be
+    seen occasionally, which would give the casual observer an idea of
+    preparations <span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span>for pile-driving; but the object of this construction
+    is for quite a different purpose. It is one of the dreadful means
+    used by the Norwegian farmers to obtain salmon. The system is
+    this:&mdash;<em>Netting</em>.&mdash;A man sits in the perch-box; the net is laid round
+    to the buoys as indicated in the previous illustration, and, as soon
+    as the fisherman (if he may be designated by that name) sees a salmon
+    underneath and within his net limit, he hauls in, and generally gets
+    him. The salmon, being in the habit of returning to the same river or
+    <i>fos</i>, are sometimes the victims of an inquiring mind in the following
+    manner:&mdash;The Norwegian whitens the face of the rock, or places a light
+    plank so that the fish’s attention may be attracted, and, whilst making
+    up his mind as to whether it may be right or wrong, his fate is sealed,
+    and he will soon be hung up in the farmer’s house, with two sticks
+    across his body. After it has been rubbed with sugar and smoked in
+    juniper fumes it is certainly a goodly adjunct to a breakfast; but when
+    the weary traveller finds only smoked salmon, he cannot help thinking
+    of the days when he was young, and had fresh meat regularly.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow68" id="i_132">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_132.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Hardanger.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>When coming down from the Haukelid Pass out of Sæterdal to the
+    Hardanger, we had not time or space to refer to a very beautiful
+    passage between the two, which we will now notice. We came from
+    Haukelid a little gloomy; we had seen a corrie which had been the
+    scene of a reindeer slaughter, or Glencoe, the result of misplaced
+    generosity on the part of an Englishman to a Norwegian. The former had
+    given the latter a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>double-barrelled breech-loading rifle, with a good
+    battue supply of cartridges. The consequence was that the local Nimrod,
+    assisted by a confederate, drove a herd of reindeer into a <i>cul-de-sac</i>
+    corrie, and then shot down more than twenty. This was worse than
+    the friend who gave his river watcher a salmon rod and flies; the
+    <i>elve-wakker</i>, or keeper, fished hard with fly and worm, and with much
+    glee wrote to his lord and master in England that he had caught “plenty
+    salmons, or <i>stor lax</i>,” and the river would soon be ready for him, but
+    he would like two new tops brought out for the rod so kindly given to
+    him.</p>
+
+  <p>Journeying from Haukelid, we came down to Roldal, where the pass
+    combines to produce a scene of great grandeur. The old wooden bridge,
+    the blustering torrent falling with ponderous leap down into a chasm
+    below, the serenity and peace of the distant snow range, and the placid
+    lake far, far below, formed a combination which causes regret that it
+    can never be adequately depicted on paper. The scenery is immensely
+    grand, the living proportionately sparse and meagre. It is the old
+    story, the quotation of Bennett’s Guide-book&mdash;“Magnificent waterfall at
+    back; only two wooden spoons at this station.”</p>
+
+  <p>A tremendous zigzag is being cut by the Government in connection with a
+    road which is ultimately intended to be opened over the pass. From the
+    top of this zigzag a very commanding view is obtained of the valley of
+    Seljestad and the Folgefond&mdash;an immense expanse of snow. We were very
+    tired on arriving at Seljestad, and could get nothing but a recorked
+    bottle of beer, which must have been put back several times on being
+    declined by previous travellers. There was nothing to eat or drink;
+    but such a <i>blakken</i>, or Norwegian pony, was put into No. 3 carriole,
+    with the proprietor up as <i>skyds</i>. Having gone about five miles, the
+    owner thought that the animal was not showing what he could do, or
+    even up to his fair average; so, taking the rope reins, he stood up at
+    the back of the carriage, grunted at him, and with deep growlings of
+    “Elephanta!” sent him flying at a tremendous pace downhill, and, when
+    far down the valley, we flew along the road through the spoondrift of
+    two fine falls. The owner explained that the pony hated being called an
+    elephant, and always went better when a little abused. </p>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_FJELD_AND_REINDEER">VII.<br />THE FJELD AND REINDEER.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    OPENING DAY FOR REINDEER&mdash;AALESUND&mdash;AURORA
+    BOREALIS&mdash;INQUIRING FRIENDS&mdash;BERRY VARIETIES&mdash;TO THE
+    FJELD&mdash;NECESSARIES&mdash;REINDEER-FLOWERS&mdash;TO THE TENTS&mdash;THE
+    DOGGIES&mdash;DANJEL AND OLE&mdash;MØLMEN&mdash;THE ARRIVAL&mdash;OUR
+    CONCERT&mdash;PTARMIGAN&mdash;REINDEER SPÖR&mdash;TROUT-FISHING IN
+    THE VAND&mdash;GOOD SPORT&mdash;THE TENTMASTER’S STORY&mdash;PASSOP
+    AND THE STOR BUCK&mdash;SNOW-WORK&mdash;SÆTER LIFE&mdash;MARITZ’S
+    LONELY STATE&mdash;HER KINDLINESS&mdash;THE SWIZZLE-STICK&mdash;THE
+    OLD BOAT&mdash;THE EAGLE AND NEST&mdash;REINDEER AND RED DEER
+    HEADS&mdash;THE DIFFICULTY OF GETTING THEM&mdash;INDFJORD&mdash;OLE
+    ERIKSON BOE&mdash;HALVER JACOBSEN&mdash;INGEBORG AND THE
+    STEEN-SKREED&mdash;INGRANA’S ACCOUNT&mdash;INGEBORG’S FUNERAL&mdash;RUNIC
+    STONE&mdash;GRAVE-BOARDS&mdash;ISTERDAL&mdash;THE MEAL-MILL&mdash;OLD KYLE&mdash;A
+    SIMPLE-MINDED COW&mdash;OLE FIVA&mdash;AIGUILLES&mdash;VALDAL&mdash;THE SOURCE
+    OF THE ISTER&mdash;EXPEDITION TO A FROZEN LAKE.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25" id="i_137"><img src="images/i_137.jpg" alt="E" /></span>VER
+    and anon we arrive at some landmark in life which stands out
+    prominently for the rest of our terrestrial journey. Perchance it
+    is one that, surrounded with pleasant associations, invites us back
+    to chew the cud of past happiness, and rises before us as an angel
+    of comfort from time to time, when shadows, storms, or squalls of
+    trouble cross our path, or the hurry-skurry of advanced civilisation
+    has ruffled our calmer nature, and we have become irritable and
+    overstrained, liable to spontaneous combustion of temper, and less
+    kindly than usual. Such a happy landmark is “after reindeer” in
+    Norwegian travel. Let us, then, look back to it, and enjoy it over and
+    over again; and may others derive equal pleasure from similar outings!</p>
+
+  <p>The 1st of August is the opening day for reindeer-shooting. About the
+    end of July the enthusiasm gradually increases, everything is supposed
+    to be ready, lists are gone over, fine weather hoped for, and the 1st
+    of August eagerly anticipated. On our way to Gudbransdalen we stopped
+    at <span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span>Aalesund for the night; and what a night! We had hardly settled
+    down to our <i>aftenmad</i>, or supper, before a servant came in to tell us
+    of a grand sunset, which she thought the English gentlemen would like
+    to see. We all rushed up-stairs, clambered through attics, and finally
+    came out on a kind of platform; and what a sight met us here! The whole
+    heavens were bathed in the most astounding crimson; at our feet lay
+    the harbour of Aalesund, and on the horizon, out in the Atlantic, long
+    ultramarine-purple islands. It was sundown in its most intense arctic
+    grandeur, with a few golden scraps of cirri in the upper heavens. So
+    impressed were we that we mused in silence; adjectives had no power of
+    expression; and we tacitly admired with awe and reverence.</p>
+
+  <p>On our return to the table some Cantabs had just arrived, and finding
+    we were compatriots, the all-prevailing subject of the latter days of
+    July rose to the surface. “Were we going after reindeer?” was followed
+    by a sort of mitrailleuse volley of cognate inquiries. They had heard
+    of three Englishmen&mdash;did we know them? as they were anxious to meet
+    them before starting. At last the suggestion was thrown out, “Had we
+    not better go another time?” We thought not. Then they divulged the
+    name of him they sought, and the Patriarch revealed himself, quoting
+    the <cite>Duke’s Motto</cite>, “I am here.” General rejoicing, fraternity, and a
+    <i>skaal</i> for good sport succeeded, and the next morning we all started
+    off together by steamer for our happy hunting-grounds.</p>
+
+  <p>On July 31st we made our head habitable quarters on the high plateau of
+    the Lesje Vand, and had time to enjoy the detailed study of the upper
+    flora and berry varieties, which are numerous in this country. Thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <table summary="Berry varieties">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Tyttebær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Red, juicy berry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Blaabær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Blueberries.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Multebær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Juicy, hard berry of raspberry form.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Kirsebær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Cherry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Bringebær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Raspberry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Björnebær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Bearberry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Winborr, Ripsbær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Currants.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Stikkelbær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Gooseberry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Silbær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Black currant.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td class="tdl"><i>Jordbær</i></td>
+        <td class="tdr"><div>Strawberry.</div></td>
+      </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span></p>
+
+  <div class="figright illow40" id="i_139">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_139.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Snow Plough.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The ponies were packed with their curious birch-twig saddles,
+    waterproof sheets for cork bed, deer-skins and air cushions,
+    provisions, a small spade to trench round the tents, cooking canteen&mdash;a
+    great work most cunningly carried out by the Tentmaster&mdash;lint,
+    chlorodyne, &amp;c.; steel nails to screw into boots for ice-work,
+    <i>vanters</i>, or mufflers, long flannel night-shirts for cold, blue
+    spectacles for snow, a little glycerine, telescope, compass, &amp;c. Our
+    beds were made with Iceland moss, waterproof sheet, cork mattress,
+    and skins, and we slept in thick socks, gloves, and long flannel
+    night-shirts with hood to keep off the flies. Hans Luther was with
+    us, and Trophas the faithful, the doggie with sharp nose and curled
+    tail. The tents had been sent up to the fjeld before us, and, after
+    about six hours’ walk, we spied the white dot&mdash;the tent. In making the
+    ascent to the upper plateau the gradual decrease of vegetation was
+    very noticeable, culminating in the reindeer flower, or <i>Ranunculus
+    glacialis</i>, which is much liked by the reindeer. Happy and buoyant with
+    hope the hunter who finds the flowers nibbled off! Their peculiarity
+    is to grow most freely where the snow has melted back. At the tents we
+    found Ole of Lesje, whose first news was that he had seen a herd of
+    about fifty reindeer, after which an important subject was mooted: a
+    glutton had been seen the night before near the tent. Danjel Kulingen
+    had been thirteen years after reindeer, and had never seen one. On
+    the other hand, Hans Luther had shot one, and there was a skin at
+    the station at Mølmen, which reminded us that at fishing inns on the
+    banks of the Thames larger fish are seen stuffed and glazed than the
+    itinerant angler generally hooks and lands.</p>
+
+  <p>All at once the dogs, three in number&mdash;Trophas, Barefoed, and
+    Storm&mdash;opened a barking chorus; but we did not seize our rifles, as
+    the telescopes revealed our Paymaster-general, who was returning from
+    his <i>chasse de bagage</i>, which he had happily recovered. The aneroids
+    registered 5,000 feet, and all was full of promise, save the one fact
+    that the rifle of our <span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span>friend was below in the valley. The despair
+    and ferocity engendered by this unhappy discovery were soon dispelled
+    by good food, and plenty of it, a word of comfort and sympathy, and
+    last, not least, a little whiskey, after which he took a siesta in his
+    tent, on which we wrote “Requiescat in pace,” and left our cards as a
+    welcome. Being Sunday, we made it quite a day of rest, and revelled in
+    the flora, mosses, and lichens of our new ground, always, however, with
+    an eye to the glutton, which evidently had a day of rest also, as he
+    never appeared. In the evening, at 6.30, we had a hunters’ chorus, for
+    the Norwegian Sunday terminates at six o’clock.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100">
+    <div class="mt10 xlarge">NORGES HERLIGHED.</div>
+    <div class="attr">Words by <span class="smcap">I. N. Brun.</span>.</div>
+    <img class="w100" src="images/music_140-141.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="center-container">
+    <div class="poetry">
+      <div class="stanza">
+        <div class="i0">Bor jeg paa det høje Fjeld, hvor en Fin skjød en Ren med sin Rifle paa Ski-en</div>
+        <div class="i0">hvor der sprang et Kildevæld, og hvor Ryperne pladsked i Li-en. Jeg med</div>
+        <div class="i0">Sang vil mane frem hveren Skat som er skjult udi Klip-pernes Rif-ter, jeg er gladog rig ved dem, kjøber</div>
+        <div class="i0">Vin og klare-rer Ud-gif-ter. Klippens Top som Gra-nen bær, muntre Sjælers</div>
+        <div class="i0">Fri-sted er, Ver-dens Tummel ned-en-for til min sky-høje Bo-lig ej naar.</div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <div class="center mt2 mb2 epub-hide"><a href="music/norges_herlighed.midi">[Listen]</a></div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span></p>
+
+  <p>Ole sang “Saga’s Hall.” Luther, with his sweet high tenor, was very
+    good, and eventually a bouquet was thrown to him. The delicate
+    attention seemed to be appreciated, although it was composed of straw
+    and red labels from the tin cans of our preserved meats, &amp;c. Then we
+    had a bar or two of “God save the Queen,” and so into our tents. The
+    next day we made a long journey, with much snow and heavy winds. In
+    the afternoon we had to swim the ponies through a river&mdash;a very pretty
+    sight indeed&mdash;the only drawback being clouds of mosquitoes. They were
+    perfectly awful, and no avoiding them. We were even thankful to think
+    we should not have them at home for a continuance, for the remark that
+    we should soon get used to them afforded no comfort.</p>
+
+  <p>At this altitude we found the ptarmigan sitting about. The shooting
+    of these birds does not commence until August 15th, and they seemed
+    to know that we, as Englishmen, would not shoot before that day. So
+    we actually threw stones at them, and one old bird, when knocked off
+    the top of a large stone, positively came back to see what it was all
+    about. Soon after this we discovered <i>freske spör</i> (new deer slots).
+    The dogs livened up for a time. All soon settled, however, into steady
+    travel again. Danjel was telescoping continually, but frequently a
+    supposed reindeer turned out to be only a stone in the snow, till at
+    last the Patriarch ventured to remark that there were “mange stor steen
+    in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>Gamle Norge, og maget god telescope jagt,” which Danjel understood
+    to suggest real deer instead of stones, and we should all have
+    preferred, as it was one of the objects of our expedition, shooting
+    reindeer to telescoping them. They are very wild, and quite justify the
+    old saying, “Mange dyr, mange øine” (many deer, many eyes). Our course
+    now lay from Buvalden due north, and we started in good time from
+    Thorbvu for the snow ranges, leaving the horses and baggage below, we
+    going as light as possible, with our own food for the day, and plenty
+    of goat cheese. At lunch Danjel explained to the Patriarch that he
+    should eat much goat cheese, for if he eat sufficient he should partake
+    of the nature of that saltatory animal, and in time jump cleverly and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span>
+    boldly from rock to rock&mdash;an accomplishment in much requisition during
+    our wanderings.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_142">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_142.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Snow Pass: Thorbvu.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>An incident of piscatorial interest occurred here. We sent a hunter,
+    who had never had a rod in his hand before, down to a lake, or <i>vand</i>,
+    to try for some trout. In an hour he came back with about twenty,
+    averaging nearly one pound each. Of course he was not casting, or
+    “flick” would have been the fate of the fly; he only trailed. Still his
+    success was perfect, and he was delighted with his new sport.</p>
+
+  <p>The male reindeer are called <i>bucks</i>, the female <i>ko</i> and <i>semle ko</i>,
+    and the young <i>kalve</i>. In the daytime they roll in the snow, and if
+    they sleep at all, it is certainly with one eye open. Having seen
+    and telescoped many large stones, and taken them for deer, there was
+    a strong inclination to inquire more closely as to the probability
+    of sport, and a suppressed anxiety to hear a definite opinion as to
+    our chance of a shot, if nothing more. The hunter must be patient,
+    persevering, careful not to appear even as a moving speck on the
+    interminable expanse of virgin snow, and take his sport quietly, for
+    better or worse. Our Tentmaster had made many expeditions, had seen
+    many deer, and even when his chance came an impetuous&mdash;shall we say
+    friend?&mdash;rushed out in front of him, fired, and missed. So tradition
+    said. We are glad to state that this did not occur during our present
+    trip. His successes arrived, however, after a time, and never will he
+    forget the day when he killed his first reindeer. Long may he live to
+    kill more!</p>
+
+  <p>Let us here give his first experience; so pray silence for the
+    Tentmaster.</p>
+
+  <h3><span class="smcap">The Tentmaster’s First Trip, and How He Tried to Get a
+      Reindeer.</span></h3>
+
+  <p>“In the year 1863 I ascended the glorious Norwegian fjelds for the
+    first time to hunt reindeer. What a charm is conveyed in these words,
+    ‘first time!’ The first salmon or trout caught; the first grouse or
+    partridge shot; the first meet at cover and burst with the hounds; the
+    first climb up the snow peaks of Switzerland; the young beauty’s first
+    London season,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span>
+    or first night at the opera or ball; and last, not
+    least, first love, all have a peculiar zest never afterwards equalled.”</p>
+
+  <p>(N.B.&mdash;The Tentmaster is rather sentimental.)</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow50" id="i_144">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_144.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>After Sport.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“I experienced this feeling in August, 1863, when, journeying up the
+    magnificent Romsdal valley, on arriving at a station I noticed a
+    splendid head of reindeer horns lying outside the station-house. On
+    inquiry I found that a Norwegian hunter had brought them down from the
+    fjelds. I lost no time in searching him out, and soon arranged for
+    an expedition together. I had no provisions, tents, spare clothing,
+    or other appliances which my subsequent experience has shown to be
+    requisite, but began the ascent with the meagre store of some raw
+    coffee berries, <i>flatbrod</i>, cheese, and biscuits. The hunter (Dan I
+    call him) could not speak English, nor I Norske; but we got on pretty
+    well by pantomime. After a pleasant but toilsome three hours’ walk
+    through the grand scenery peculiar to the Norwegian fjelds, Dan’s
+    hound Passop (the reindeer hounds are held in a leash two or three
+    yards long) suddenly squatted down in great excitement, with his nose
+    steadily pointed to a huge rock about three hundred <span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>yards distant,
+    and gave a peculiar low whine. Dan was down immediately, and signalled
+    me to do the same. He was certain that reindeer were close at hand, but
+    a full half-hour’s telescoping failed to disclose their whereabouts.
+    Nothing could induce Passop to move; his sniffing nose kept steadily
+    in the direction of the rock; while he occasionally gave us a most
+    intelligent, imploring look, as much as to say, ‘Do something.’ Unable
+    to see any trace of deer, we dare not move. Dan thought that wherever
+    they were, there they would remain some time; so, with faithful Passop
+    on the watch, we determined to have lunch. Not a bite, however, would
+    Passop touch&mdash;not even <i>flatbrod</i> thick with butter. There he squatted,
+    with his nose still to the rock, the model of a watchful sentinel.
+    Lunch finished, Dan began telescoping, and soon discovered the cause of
+    Passop’s agitation. The tips of antlers were visible above the rock,
+    and in distinct relief against the sky. They were perfectly motionless;
+    but we were quite sure, after many exciting inspections with the
+    telescope, that a large buck was resting behind the rock. As the wind
+    was not very favourable Dan said we must be quite still, and remain
+    till we saw a movement. In my innocence I wished to smoke a pipe, but
+    Dan forbade it. The excitement was increased by Dan saying it was a
+    large buck, probably an outlying sentinel, and that a herd of deer was
+    not far off, which proved correct. Our patience being exhausted, Dan,
+    much to the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span>delight of Passop, ordered a forward crawling movement;
+    and, with time and patience, we got within eighty yards of the rock,
+    where we determined to halt and wait. The tops of the antlers were
+    still motionless. Poor Passop was trembling with excitement, and his
+    companions much the same. In this position another half-hour passed,
+    when suddenly Dan exclaimed, ‘Look!’ Passop became very uneasy, when
+    we had the pleasure of seeing a splendid <i>stor buck</i> rise up and stand
+    before us broadside, with his head turned to where we were crouching.
+    Passop behaved splendidly, remaining perfectly still, while I shall
+    never forget the expression of his eyes, and his occasional side glance
+    at us, as much as to say, ‘Now then.’ Resting my rifle on a convenient
+    rock, I took aim steadily behind the shoulder, pulled the trigger, and,
+    to my horror, it missed fire. The buck heard the snap, and started off
+    at a rattling pace; Passop struggled wildly to get out of the leash;
+    and Dan exclaimed, ‘Gud bevar mig! Give me my riffel.’ I handed it to
+    him, he recapped it, and fired at about two hundred yards’ distance
+    without effect. Passop collapsed, and the translation of his thoughts
+    into English was indicated by the expression of his face,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span>
+    ‘I have done my best!’ No doubt he had a clear conscience; and work being
+    finished, he commenced eating <i>flatbrod</i> and butter with great zest.
+    The inevitable pipes were now brought out for consolation. Wonderful
+    weed&mdash;exquisite after a success, soothing after a defeat!</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_145f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_145f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Near Ovendal: after Reindeer.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_145f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow62" id="i_145">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_145.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>An Anxious Moment.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_146">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_146.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Thorbvu: Encamping.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>“We now made our way to a stone cave to pass the night, where we
+    had coffee and <i>flatbrod</i>. The cave was just large enough for me to
+    creep in, and I passed the night on dried moss, sleeping soundly till
+    daybreak. The night being very fine, Dan took up his quarters outside
+    the cave, had coffee, and slept soundly on dried moss too. After
+    breakfast we started, Dan being sure we should find the herd. At one
+    o’clock we discerned them, fourteen in number, taking their noonday
+    siesta on the snow; but in vain we tried to get within shot. Next day
+    we saw herds of deer, but without being able to get within range on
+    account of the quantity of snow. On the third day I returned to the
+    station, much delighted with my first reindeer-hunting experiences.
+    Often as I have been on the fjelds since, the three days of 1863 have
+    not been surpassed, although</p>
+
+  <div class="center">NO DEER WAS KILLED.”</div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow44" id="i_147">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_147.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Easing down the Patriarch.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>It would be well here to say a few words respecting the tents and their
+    arrangement.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span></p>
+
+  <p>A regular <i>tente abri</i> carries two very well. Of course there are
+    more room and comfort for a single inhabitant; still, for general
+    travelling, in which luggage may only too truly be described as
+    <i>impedimenta</i>, the tent referred to may be used. Every morning, if the
+    weather permits, the waterproof sheet and cork bed should be laid out
+    to dry, and the skins also. The trench round the tent must be well
+    looked to, the lines tightened, and the ponies tethered, as it is
+    rather disagreeable to be awakened about two <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> by a storm
+    of rain and wind, and to discover your pony, with his linked fore-legs
+    well tangled in tent lines, doing his best to pull down the whole
+    concern on the heads of the occupants. Far more delightful is it to be
+    aroused on a bright, crisp, and fresh summer morning, when, if near a
+    <i>sæter</i>, the cause of it may be the jodelling of a <i>pige</i> in charge
+    of the cows&mdash;Swiss as to character of song, exceedingly Norske as she
+    calls to them to follow. In the country districts animals follow more
+    frequently than they are driven. Kindliness is the rural, coercion the
+    town influence.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow62" id="i_148">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_148.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Grallock.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Many of our readers will notice that under the initial letter at
+    the commencement of this chapter, the powder-flask and general
+    arrangement are very much like the old bandoleers still hanging in the
+    guard-chamber of Hampton Court Palace and others at Portsmouth. They
+    were most general in Charles I.’s time, and are beautifully shown in De
+    Gheyn’s costumes of Culverin-men and Harquebusiers. In this case the
+    bandoleer <span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span>was made of steel, and it is faithfully rendered, with the
+    cord by which the whole arrangement was hung over the shoulder of the
+    hunter.</p>
+
+  <p>By this time we deserve sport. We have travelled far and worked hard
+    for it. Let us see the result. We had arrived at a great height, at the
+    snow-fields called Sneebreden, like the Folgefond in the Hardanger, We
+    had slid, crawled, and struggled, sometimes moving one behind the other
+    at an angle to reduce our surface, creeping on the crisp, dry, hard
+    snow, wading rivers of snow-water (very cold tubbing indeed), sloshing
+    at the edge of the snow, where the reindeer-flowers bloom, and going
+    through various other incidents of snow travelling, till at last we
+    arrived at a smart drop, previous to another <i>fond</i>. Here the Patriarch
+    had to be eased down, and his pendent position is only suggested in
+    the cut (<a href="#Page_147">p. 147</a>). Soon Trophas began to draw upon some slots in the
+    snow, and it was the unanimous opinion that they were “fresh.” Trophas
+    pulled hard, held back by Ole, who eventually began to half trot. To
+    the unsentimental mind the action was that of a blind man’s dog eyeing
+    coppers in the distance; but Trophas was in earnest, and at last the
+    top of a horn burst upon us, and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span>in a second our fate was disclosed
+    to us. There was nothing but the gralloch of a reindeer <i>kalve</i> shot
+    yesterday&mdash;one horn, one hoof, &amp;c.&mdash;as shown in the sketch (<a href="#Page_148">p. 148</a>).
+    How could it be accounted for? Many suggestions were thrown out, many
+    improbabilities considered feasible, and at last a matter-of-fact mind
+    launched the frightful proposition that the glutton seen by Ole near
+    our tents the night before our arrival was nothing but a native hunter,
+    who had been stalking us, and had killed the <i>kalve</i> of which the
+    remains were now at our feet. Nothing daunted, we flattered ourselves
+    that at all events we had now commenced in earnest, and remembered the
+    saw that the worst beginning has the best ending.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_149">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_149.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Maritz Sæter.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_150.jpg" alt="T" /></span>RAVELLERS
+    in Norway are surprised, as they pass
+    through the valleys, to see so few cows. This is easily explained.
+    They visit this interesting country when these animals are away, like
+    themselves, for a holiday; and as every dog has his day, so every
+    Norwegian cow has her outing, and goes to the grass pastures in the
+    upper plateau to enjoy life until the white mantle of snow is ready
+    to garb the upper ranges and drive the cows and <i>piger</i> down to their
+    homesteads and winter quarters. As already described, these <i>sæters</i>,
+    or <i>châlets</i>, are high up, and frequently afford the energetic
+    nature-loving traveller and genuine hunter cover and shelter, we may
+    almost say comfort&mdash;<i>cum</i> very much <i>grano</i>, though. In snow-work
+    it becomes almost luxury to have one of these to fly to in very bad
+    weather. Tent life is the most truly enjoyable thing&mdash;though there
+    are times when a tent may be blown down and soaked through&mdash;to say
+    nothing of the milk supply at hand, which is meat and drink at all
+    times, although very filling at the Norwegian price. This will account
+    for our associating a <i>sæter</i> so prominently with our snow-work. The
+    one given in our woodcut (<a href="#Page_149">p. 149</a>)<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span>
+    was inhabited by Maritz, who was
+    there by herself from July to the beginning of September or end of
+    August, according to the early or late fall of the snow. The 20th of
+    August generally brings the first fall of snow in this latitude (63°).
+    During our stay we always slept in our tents, as we all feared the
+    parasitical ticklings the <i>sæter</i> would inevitably have afforded us
+    had we given it the chance. All the summer through the old snow lay
+    round the antiquated wooden building, and seldom indeed was it that
+    Maritz had any one to speak to, as there was no road or path of any
+    kind. Still she was all kindness. Did she not send a pair of cuffs to
+    the Patriarch’s wife, and iron them, so to speak, after her manner,
+    with the back of a wooden spoon, as she hummed a plaintive ditty in the
+    minor key? Perhaps she thought the lady would hardly like to wear them,
+    or else that they might find their way to some great people. Maritz,
+    too, held to the superstitions of her ancestors. Thus her porridge
+    swizzle-stick&mdash;which is like the West Indian swizzles, but larger&mdash;made
+    from the five-shoot top of a young fir, was always prepared with a
+    cross cut at the end or swizzling part of it, to keep the Evil One from
+    turning the milk sour. This, too, she sent with the cuffs.</p>
+
+  <p>A little outdoor shed, or <i>laave</i>, was our general cooking-place,
+    into which four of us sometimes squeezed, and, as the dogs filled up
+    the interstices, we were as closely packed as sardines, the whole
+    being seasoned with the oil of good fellowship. It is wonderful how
+    invigorating this life is. What a system for a sanatorium! How well
+    balanced should one become with such fresh air, simple food, and
+    exercise, and with all the energy and toughness requisite for this
+    work! It is inconceivable how kindly, obliging, and tender towards
+    others a life like this makes us. Such was the influence of our
+    head-quarters. Prosiness must be avoided, however; so another day on
+    the snow with the hopes of sport, and no buck fever if we get a chance.
+    Bad landmark that, if perchance it befall us. We hope it will not: if
+    it do we will forget it.</p>
+
+  <p>For our line the shortest way would be across the <i>vand</i> where the
+    trout were caught, and Danjel reported the discovery of an old boat
+    of that class which has no iron nails about it, but all wooden pegs,
+    and yet not particularly inviting as to safety, as the baling-ladle of
+    birch wood <span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span>gave the idea that whoever last used it thought it would be
+    wanted by the next comer. However, as the hunters were agreeable and
+    we could all swim, we determined to try it. So off we started, with
+    ominous gurglings and washings to and fro in the bottom of the boat,
+    fast, frequent, and furious. The ladle was heartily plied, first by one
+    strong arm, then by another; but still the water came. This brought to
+    our remembrance the Scottish Highland custom of baling the boat with
+    a good large shoe, and that if you only take a pair the power becomes
+    doubled.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_152">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_152.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Friend in Need.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Happily we arrived safely, and soon started for a long day’s work
+    over unknown ground. The weather had cleared, and everything seemed
+    to combine in our favour. There was a hearty good spirit among our
+    hunters and ourselves, each fellow wishing the other good sport, and
+    the dogs were keen to a degree. They longed for a revenge after the
+    affair of the old gralloch, and flattered themselves that, if we were
+    not unlucky, they would get fresh blood before nightfall. We were soon
+    beginning to ascend steadily, and about an hour after starting, the
+    Patriarch, working <span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span>his way under some overhanging rocks, met with a
+    surprise. An eagle, a large specimen, swept over his head and shadowed
+    him. With his rifle in its case and across his back, the noble bird
+    was safe, and the Patriarch delighted. Must there not be a nest? Yes,
+    there was. Rough sticks and the lightest of down feathers were all that
+    it was made of&mdash;rude, simple, and, one would think, uncomfortable for
+    so grand a bird. Some of the down feathers were taken as a souvenir,
+    and now and then brought out and floated, so light are they, in
+    recollection of our having found one of the noblest of birds at home.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow65" id="i_153">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_153.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Eagle’s Nest.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>By mid-day we were out on the open snow, with hardly any rock shelter
+    for stalking, should fortune favour us. The reindeer, however, were not
+    “at home;” so we stopped at a suitable rock for lunch. How we enjoyed
+    it! Old Trophas wagged his tail with a conviction that “no <span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span>sport, no
+    food,” would never be his fate as long as there was something left in
+    our wallets. So we all rejoiced together, winding up with a little
+    whiskey and hearty wishes for good sport.</p>
+
+  <p>Soon after lunch the tips of some horns were just visible on the
+    snow-line. A large expanse of snow lay before us, with some small rocks
+    half-way. Could we reach them? No; so we waited for the chance of the
+    deer working up our way. Unfortunately they moved in the opposite
+    direction, and our chance was gone. Still we had seen some, and that
+    inspired fresh hope. Later in the afternoon we again saw a herd, and
+    telescoped them for a length of time. Soon after this a second herd
+    became visible, and it was most interesting to watch their manœuvres,
+    which we did until they joined and moved off&mdash;of course in the opposite
+    direction. An immense expanse of snow was now before us, and once we
+    saw four herds of reindeer, and could count about one hundred and
+    forty. For a long time we had hope, and agreed that if we could only
+    get one we should be satisfied; but even that was denied, for the four
+    herds gradually blended and went straight off, leaving us in the most
+    perfect solitude, reindeerless.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow78" id="i_154">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_154.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Reindeer Head.</i><a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a>This head, of forty-one points, is in the collection of
+      Sir Charles Mordaunt, Bart., at Walton Hall.</p>
+  </div>
+    <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p>
+
+  <p>By this time we had a long distance to travel to get back to our tents.
+    Fortunately the light fades so little that it hardly signifies; still
+    great care is required to judge of the best footing after leaving the
+    snow, as the hunter leads, and can go any way, even to rolling down
+    places like a hedgehog, and sometimes sitting down for a slide. Indeed,
+    going home becomes a kind of steeple-chase over unknown ground. In such
+    cases woe and grief must be the fate of the novice. At the highest
+    elevation we passed an immense boulder, very much like the Logan Stone,
+    and of similar dimensions, though perhaps larger. On the top of this
+    was a much smaller one, but of different geological formation. This
+    gave rise to considerable discussion about the glacial theory, as there
+    was a non-believer present. What could have produced this remarkable
+    combination but the action of glaciers passing over the surface,
+    bearing huge masses of rock from distant parts, and, as the ice melted
+    away, depositing them? These boulders were found at an elevation of
+    5,000 feet or more. We also met with a most interesting instance of
+    pink snow, very marked <span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span>indeed in colour. All these varied phases of
+    nature did much to repay us for our disappointment respecting the deer.
+    This the difficulties of the descent also made us for the time forget,
+    as Danjel Kulingen was tearing away as hard as he could possibly go,
+    sometimes letting himself down, then hanging on to the undergrowth of
+    heather, sliding, rolling, or jumping. We often solaced ourselves with
+    the idea that if we could only get him on the flat for ten miles for a
+    finish, we could give him a spin and run him in at high speed.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow78" id="i_155">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_155.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Red Deer Head.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Whilst we had been telescoping the deer our Aalesund friend was having
+    sport. On our return we found that he had been over to our tent to see
+    us, and had left word of “Sport, sport,” and a message to try for a
+    meet. This, unfortunately, could not be arranged, or we should have
+    seen joy depicted on his face when he described to us where and how he
+    killed his first reindeer.</p>
+
+  <p>The Norwegians believe that the horns of the reindeer, boiled down,
+    are good for consumptive people. There is no doubt that the reindeer
+    themselves eat, or rather gnaw them when they are shed, which occurs
+    in November. The males shed their horns first, the females retaining
+    them longer. We found several horns partially gnawed through, and, when
+    we consider the number of deer, there must be some reason why the shed
+    horns are not more frequently picked up. The same idea of horn soup
+    for consumptive cases occurs in Scotland, where the horns of red deer
+    are also found gnawed. One would imagine that the best time for this
+    <i>potage</i> would be when the horn was first formed, and the “velvet” is
+    on, or when the horn is being renewed; and during this period it is
+    very warm indeed, as large arteries run inside the velvet, or horn
+    skin, and are engaged in depositing bone on the old stems, until the
+    horns are complete and the velvet fretted off in September.</p>
+
+  <p>The reindeer, like ptarmigan, become white during the winter, and in
+    their wild state present a great contrast to the sheeplike tameness of
+    those possessed by Laplanders. The Laps have a regular call for their
+    tame deer, which generally come at once; but if not, the proprietor has
+    generally his lasso with him, which is thrown over the animal’s loins,
+    and he is at once a prisoner. The good travelling pace of reindeer is
+    well <span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span>known, being about ten miles an hour, with two hundred pounds
+    weight at their back. In their wild state their pace was beyond
+    computation when we were behind them. We could well say that we had
+    been “after reindeer,” and that is all. The only way to have sport in
+    such a country as Norway is patiently to settle down to it, without
+    fixing a time for returning. A river is not always right, nor the water
+    in condition. So is it with the reindeer hunter: a thousand things
+    may occur to mar his success. The very wind is sometimes wrong, and
+    may chop round at the moment when he hopes it will hold on steadily
+    for an hour or two; while, on the other hand, it may change at some
+    fortunate moment exactly in his favour. No; there is no royal road to
+    such sports as these. The charm of uncertainty must at all times attach
+    to real sport. It must be worked for, and directly the uncertainty
+    is removed its real charm is gone, and the relish for it dissipated.
+    The mere act of shooting and killing lasts but a second of time; it
+    is the surroundings which afford the real pleasure&mdash;the fresh air,
+    the change of scene, the care required in every detail, the sportsman
+    never knowing but that the very next moment some interesting incident
+    may transpire which would make the day, hour, and spot a landmark; the
+    necessity for watching every breath of air, the most delicate zephyr
+    being registered and measured by the painstaking hunter, as he brings
+    out tenderly some carefully preserved pieces of the finest floss silk,
+    or, better far, some of the eagle’s down feathers already alluded to.
+    Again, the dogs require constant attention; and, to be quite complete,
+    a coronet of eagles’ eyes&mdash;optical all-rounders&mdash;would be an assistance.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="i_157">
+    <img class="p190" src="images/i_157.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span></p>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_158.jpg" alt="F" /></span>ISHING
+    for salmon, and the love which Englishmen
+    have for that grandest of all sports, have led to the opening up of
+    Norway to the general traveller. Our first pioneers, finding how
+    importunate were the inquiries of the new-comers respecting the best
+    spots and methods for sport, and that the inclination of some led them
+    to try and bid above others for the waters they had really well earned
+    by their own energy and perception&mdash;all this, we say, tended to make
+    men on board the good ship <cite>Tasso</cite> rather <em>taciturn</em>. (Excuse the
+    approach to an unintentional pun.) This, however, is not surprising,
+    for men are compelled to be reticent when they know the inevitable
+    consequences of giving details of their sport. Nothing will secure
+    success but earnest work, patience, and biding your time for the happy
+    combination which the best rivers can only afford now and then. Why, as
+    we have just observed, the whole charm of sport would be dispelled if
+    it became a dead certainty, and a man knew he would kill so many pounds
+    of fish one day, and none the next. No; like the glorious uncertainty
+    of cricket and hunting, the uncertainty of fishing is one of its
+    charms; the average of good and bad is equalised, and the old French
+    proverb comes in, that “Patience et longueur de temps font plus que la
+    rage.” The noble salmon has become liable to increased and more subtle
+    dangers within the last few years, besides his old natural enemies. The
+    peasants have new means of torture. His natural foes are the bull-trout
+    and sea-trout, which are the vermin of every river, destroying the
+    spawn wholesale, and even lying in wait for the moment when the female
+    deposits her milt, an instance of which came under our observation.
+    The nets at the mouth of the river are an old institution, but they
+    should be well constructed and supervised; also the <i>tine</i>, or stage,
+    described in a former chapter, where the <i>bonde</i> is anything but the
+    “sweet little cherub that sits up <span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span>aloft;” still it is an old custom,
+    and we like old customs. So also is the “worm box” which hangs from the
+    peasant’s belt as he goes for some trout, or anything else that may be
+    tempted. The worm box is a very primitive construction, its simplicity
+    being well carried out in the birch twig by which it is suspended,
+    and the two pieces of leather through which the lid slides. It is a
+    picturesque relic of old days.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright illow18" id="i_159">
+    <img src="images/i_159.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Worm Box.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>We now approach the recent diabolical invention of the “otter,” which,
+    sad to relate, must have been introduced thoughtlessly by some one
+    who little knew what damage he was doing when, for his own selfish
+    gratification, he fell back upon so unlawful and unsportsmanlike
+    an expedient. Even to obtain food such poaching is unjustifiable.
+    Certainly enough could have been taken for that purpose by fair means.
+    It is of no use, however, dilating upon this; the deed is done, and
+    otters cannot be withdrawn now. If the arm of the law were stretched
+    forth, “les pommes volées” would become more than ever “les plus
+    douces.” Then, again, the kindly feeling engendered by good sport and
+    a certain sense of gratitude frequently leads, at the end of a visit,
+    to a gift of flies, perhaps even of a rod. In illustration of this let
+    us repeat the case of the proprietor of a river who gave to Nils, his
+    <i>elve-wakker</i>, a salmon rod and flies. Early in the season Nils began
+    to avail himself of the new fishing-gear, and soon wrote home to his
+    benefactor to say that the salmon were coming up the river, but that
+    he had broken both tops of the rod, and lost most of the flies; would
+    the gentleman kindly send out some more flies and tops to get the
+    river ready for him? We do not think this was done; it could hardly be
+    expected that any man would like all the salmon he killed to be landed
+    with more than one fly, perhaps one in his mouth, one in each fin, and
+    finally one in his tail. What an awful apparition for even the merest
+    tyro! Such liberality is simply mistaken kindness. This brings to mind
+    other stories concerning salmon-fishing.</p>
+
+  <p>It is often remarked that “truth is stranger than fiction.” When an
+    M.P. fishing in Scotland played and held his fish all night, and on
+    the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span>following morning lost him, and a friend of his afterwards killed
+    a salmon with one of the M.P.’s favourite flies in his tail, that was
+    certainly an event, but hardly to be compared with what we are about to
+    relate. In the large rivers of Norway a fishing may extend four miles,
+    and the fishing next to that only three, so that different waters are
+    let to different persons. In the present instance our foreign Izaak
+    Walton was fishing the very top water, and, as good luck would have it,
+    hooked a <i>stor lax</i>, perchance a forty-pounder. He played him firmly
+    and steadily, but the fish after a time got the gentleman at the reel
+    end of the rod through the next water and the next. Hours rolled on,
+    yet still down they went, and by the next morning arrived at a shallow
+    part of the river. A Norwegian peasant came up, and, despite the
+    national dislike to going into the water, plunged into the river, and
+    walked out with the <i>stor lax</i> in his arms&mdash;<span class="smcap">dead</span>, and reported
+    that he must have been dead for the <em>last five hours</em>. Nevertheless he
+    got him, and a fine fish he was, with one fly in the right place.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_160">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_160.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Fresh Fish al Fresco.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_161f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_161f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Stige-steen, or Ladder Rock.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_161f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span></p>
+
+  <p>The Norwegians have a great admiration and respect for a good
+    fisherman. One morning, speaking of the average sport of the river,
+    and referring to that of last year, we inquired if &mdash;&mdash; were a good
+    fisherman. Knut answered emphatically, “No; he is a poor man, a very
+    poor man.” We naturally replied, “But in England he is a very rich
+    man.” “Ah!” said Knut with strong emphasis, “when he was here he was no
+    richer than we, but the flies bite him much more.” What contentment!
+    no envying, although a latent satisfaction creeps out, which decidedly
+    evinces an undercurrent of thought.</p>
+
+  <p>Trout-fishing has the great charm of taking Piscator into the most
+    lovely and retired spots. The salmon, as a larger fish, takes us to
+    a grander scale of nature. The water of the cheerful little trout
+    stream is changed for the rushing river, and the comparatively low
+    bank sometimes gives place to a position like that in the annexed
+    illustration, which was taken from above a grand pool, the Stige-steen,
+    or Ladder Rock, connecting it with the side of the river.</p>
+
+  <p>Having said somewhat of fishing, let us now turn to the “aldermanic
+    view” of the salmon, and hark back to a happy day when a lady had
+    killed a nice fish, about fourteen pounds and a half, which was to be
+    cooked on the spot: it is well to observe the process and make a note
+    thereof. Cut the salmon in slices, and boil them for ten minutes; then
+    let the water in which they were cooked boil on, with the head added;
+    put in a little fresh butter, pepper, and salt, and serve as gravy
+    or sauce. With a Norwegian appetite it is perfect, and very simple.
+    N.B.&mdash;Fish killed at noon, served at two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> This is fresh
+    fish, and contrasts most favourably with the frozen salmon which
+    travels ice-bound to the metropolis of Great Britain.</p>
+
+  <p>Evening is the best time for fishing, and the long twilight, which
+    helps the enthusiast for trout and salmon fishing at eleven or twelve,
+    can only be realised by those who know the glories of the North. It
+    seems a curious thing to take, when travelling, a green blind in order
+    to exclude the light when wishing to go to sleep; still it is necessary
+    at first, although Nature is so elastic that she readily adapts herself
+    to circumstances, when the green blind can be given to some new-comer,
+    or lent as a passing boon.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span></p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_162">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_162.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Casting.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>One word in reference to the illustration, “A Good Beginning.” It was
+    our last morning: wind, rain, mist low down&mdash;in fact, blowing hard.
+    No. 3 was up at five <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and found the Tentmaster-general
+    had passed a restless night, every coverlet and blanket being
+    knotted, twisted, and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span>twined into the most perfect disorder. This
+    was attributed to the fact that it was his last night that season in
+    Norway, and his usually placid sleep had been disturbed with Norske
+    nightmare. He must have been dreaming of trolds and <i>nökken</i>, and
+    fancied that he was gaffing ogres or <i>bjergtrolds</i> instead of fine
+    clean fish. The weather was the last straw which broke the camel’s
+    back&mdash;he would not go. “You go,” was his rejoinder. So the Patriarch
+    went; and this was the result to greet his companions when they came
+    down to breakfast.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_163">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_163.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Good Beginning.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span></p>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_164.jpg" alt="T" /></span>HERE
+    is a great charm about the freedom of driving
+    one’s own pony and carriole, or <i>stolkjær</i>, for a long run, or even for
+    a short excursion; it conduces to the peaceful rest we are all longing
+    for, and saves one from reminders that at the next station the horses
+    will be charged for if we do not hurry on. This is rather tantalising
+    when one is drinking in nature, and realising the fact that each moment
+    is revealing fresh beauties and developing lifelong impressions&mdash;the
+    very time when one wants to be left to nature and himself. In the
+    excursion now before us we had our own ponies part of the way, and
+    pedestrianism for cross country. Our route was from Romsdal, the weird
+    valley where, on the previous evening, the trolds had been playing
+    pranks in the following manner:&mdash;About 8.30 a tremendously heavy roll
+    as of thunder, lasting forty seconds, brought us suddenly to the
+    window. The mist was hanging round the peaks, with cirri-strati across
+    them; down came the <i>steen-skreed</i>, or slip, with a mighty rush; and
+    the cloud was driven out by the shower of rocks and stone as they came
+    madly down. It was unusually grand. The sheep boy with his horn ran in,
+    Anna rushed to the door to see it, and as she came the dust rose up in
+    a cloud as incense after Nature’s work. Ole remarked that it was a fine
+    shower, and very impressive it certainly was; still Anna said she did
+    not like it. In some cases in the winter-time the peasants go on to the
+    ice to avoid the possibility of these erratic masses reaching them.</p>
+
+  <p>We were soon off to Gudbransdalen, calling as usual at Fladmark&mdash;that
+    lovely spot, beautiful to a degree if you have provisions. Should such
+    be the case, you certainly must have brought them, for the station
+    is not one of refreshment, as Mrs. Brassey testified by her anxiety
+    to regain her yacht, the <cite>Sunbeam</cite>, which is truly a sunbeam to her
+    friends. Long may it be so to her and her husband and son!</p>
+
+  <p>We must leave the hurly-burly of rocks through which the Rauma
+    dashes in this part. Rocks the size of detached villas seem to have
+    been “chucked” about, for this is the only term we can bestow upon
+    such higgledy-piggledy positions. One can only realise the idea by
+    imagining <span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span>one’s self a minute insect in a basin of lump sugar, with a
+    great rushing river beneath.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright illow50" id="i_165">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_165.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Arriving at Mølmen, we found it a most healthy spot, and worth staying
+    at for a time, as the people are so kind, and the whole surroundings
+    inviting. Being on a high plateau, the air is perfect, and the place
+    seems to be more than usually fortunate in its weather. The following
+    morning, there being no service at kirk, we availed ourselves of the
+    perfect weather for enjoyment on the hillside. Striking off from the
+    houses, we sauntered up through the stunted birch and the heather till
+    the grey rocks became more prominent, the vegetation sparse, the plants
+    closer to the ground, and then we lay down on the fjeld side. What a
+    view there was beneath us! The whole scene was a rare combination of
+    all the prismatic colours so characteristic of Scotland in October.
+    At our feet was the long Lesje Vand, beyond that the Dovre fjeld,
+    and we fancied we could see Sneehatten; then, away to the right,
+    were snow ranges to Storhættan, which is ascended from Ormem. How we
+    basked in the sunlight and longed for more life on the fjeld! “Why
+    should we not go to Eikesdal?” said Ole all at once. “That would be
+    fine: why not?” The idea was caught at. “How long would it take to
+    walk, Ole?” “Well, eighteen hours if there is no mist.” “Very well,
+    then; no mist, if you please, and we will do it.” This was a new joy:
+    eighteen hours’ walk without a house to call at, carrying one’s own
+    nosebag, and great doubts as to a bed on arriving&mdash;more delightful
+    still! This is enjoyment indeed, though not to every one, perhaps. We
+    therefore decided to start the next morning at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, provided
+    there was neither mist on the mountains nor the chance of it. How we
+    revelled on the journey in anticipation, enhanced as our happiness was
+    by the beauty of the scene and the grandeur of the surroundings! All
+    the way down we conversed on our coming walk, interrupted only by a
+    visit <span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span>to a farm, where we heard some of the good folk singing. It was
+    hay-time; the weather fine, with a refreshing breeze that gently waved
+    the new-cut grass as it hung from the frames, like huge towel-horses,
+    which are used for drying it. We were invited to enter the farmhouse,
+    where we found the room tidied up for Sunday, and the family singing
+    a hymn in their customary devotional manner. There was the usual
+    three-cornered cupboard; an old gun which had laid low many a good
+    buck, the powder-flask, primer, and ball-bag were ready for August;
+    the ivy was carefully trained up the windows inside; and the ale-bowls
+    and tankards were about the room. It was quite a Norwegian homestead.
+    One thing was unusual&mdash;a musical instrument called a <i>psalmodicum</i>,
+    which is a board painted green with red flowers, about an inch thick
+    and thirty inches long, with three strings raised on a bridge like a
+    violin. These strings are played with a bow, also of the violin class,
+    but different in character. We regretted very much that we could not
+    persuade any one to perform upon it.</p>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow30" id="i_166">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Wool Holder.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>On our return we found the proposed trip emanated from the fact that
+    a house-painter was going over to Eikesdal, and had been waiting for
+    clear weather to carry out his object. By the next morning a farmer
+    from Eikesdal proposed joining us: he knew the way. This completed
+    our party, and at four o’clock we started, with every assurance of
+    fine weather. Working up through the stunted birch-trees, we soon
+    looked over the heights of the Vermer Fos to Storhættan. The Svart-hø
+    rose behind us, and approaching the snow-line, we came upon the
+    reindeer-flower (<i>Ranunculus glacialis</i>), with its sharp-pointed leaves
+    and beautiful white blossom. Then the dreary Gravendal opened to us,
+    wild, bleak, weird, and barren to a degree, with Amra Jura on our
+    right, directly over Eikesdal, far, far away. About this time there was
+    a grand solar rainbow. We now got very rough rock-tramping&mdash;regular
+    <i>couloir</i> climbing&mdash;and there was no <span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span>vegetation, the moss being of the
+    “crottle” tribe, a perfectly black lichen. As we ascended the peaks
+    were grander. Many reindeer <i>spör</i> were seen, but no reindeer. At the
+    highest part we found the snow discoloured by a very fine dark gritty
+    dust; and it is a remarkable fact that this discoloration was the
+    result of volcanic eruption in Iceland. After the eruption a gale set
+    in from the W.S.W., which on Easter Monday, 1875, positively carried
+    the clouds of scoriæ right across Norway. The line was followed even to
+    Sweden, and corroborated by some peasants who were out when it fell.</p>
+
+  <p>A volcanic eruption in Iceland is a serious matter. One of the worst
+    occurred in 1783. On that occasion 14,000 persons were killed. In the
+    eruption of 1875, the vegetation, which provided for 40,000 sheep,
+    2,000 cattle, and 3,000 horses, was all destroyed. The hay harvest, the
+    only one in Iceland, was also entirely destroyed. Scoriæ, varying from
+    fine pumice to pieces the size of two fists, covered its surface from
+    an inch and a half to eight inches deep. The eruption began about nine
+    <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and when the scoriæ fell there was total darkness. The
+    air was so highly charged with electricity that staff-spikes held up in
+    the hand seemed to be in a blaze.</p>
+
+  <p>We soon began to descend a little to a vast plateau. Our provisions had
+    been fallen back upon every few hours, and were now much reduced. The
+    farmer looked forward to the plateau as being likely to afford some
+    <i>multebær</i>, a kind of raspberry with a hard skin, but juicy. A good and
+    most useful man was the farmer. Favoured by the weather, he steered
+    well, and we soon came to an incline on the snow, where we could make
+    a long and safe <i>glissade</i>. It was certainly a novelty to see us all
+    flying down. The farmer was the best man, and happily we reached the
+    bottom in safety. Another hour and we lay down to rest and enjoy our
+    <i>multebær</i>. They were deliciously refreshing. The house-painter, or
+    <i>maler</i>, suggested that there was a <i>sæter</i> somewhere at the head of
+    Eikesdal which we might try for. “That is just what we are making
+    for,” said our cheery chief, the farmer; “in about an hour we shall be
+    there.” On we went, our fatigue being forgotten in the grandeur of the
+    scenery and the difficulty of picking one’s way, for hopping from stone
+    to stone absorbs the attention considerably. The time soon passed,
+    and after we had completed our twelve hours’ walk <span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span>we had arrived at
+    some weather-worn, storm-riven, dwarfed, gnarled, and twisted birches,
+    beyond which, in a <i>botten</i>, lay our <i>sæter</i>. What an invasion! The
+    two girls were astonished, but when they heard the voice of the farmer
+    all was well. Ole immediately ordered a <em>bunker</em>, as it is called
+    in Romsdal; in Gudbransdalen it is termed <i>rummer coller</i>. How we
+    enjoyed our rest after this simple food! A <em>bunker</em>, however, should
+    be described: it is a flat wooden tub of curds and whey, and is handed
+    to two people. Each person is armed with a spoon, with which it is
+    etiquette to draw a line across the centre for your <i>vis-à-vis</i> to eat
+    up to, not beyond; but few Englishmen ever reach the line unless they
+    are very old hands.</p>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow44" id="i_168">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_168.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Reeb Holder.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>We were now at the head of the Eikesdal gorge, or valley; a roaring
+    torrent rushed down the centre to Utigaard; on the left were
+    steep precipices with a large fall; while the opposite side was
+    perpendicular, and threatened showers of troll stones. As we descended
+    we saw many huge masses of rocks which had ploughed their way down,
+    carrying all before them. To see one of these <i>lapsus naturæ</i> is a very
+    impressive sight, and makes one hold his breath and think. Passing
+    through the valley, we noticed some very curious snow shoes, in form
+    like the square frames on which sea-lines are wound, but with broader
+    cross-pieces. Birch twigs on each side and over the foot fix them. On
+    we trudged, having bidden farewell to the farmer, thanked him for his
+    good services, and had a <i>skaal</i> for Gamle Norge. Finally, we left the
+    house-painter at his destination, where the old lady told us all about
+    the dust coming down upon her; and then Ole and myself were alone to
+    finish the day. We had started at four <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and it was now
+    ten <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> We at length saw the spire of a church&mdash;the kirk at
+    Utigaard&mdash;and we began to inquire for Torstin Utigaard of Utigaard, the
+    hunter. At last we found his house, but he was on the fjeld. Could we
+    get a bed anywhere? No, nothing. Ole persevered, and we presently found
+    comfort. Torstin was expected down from the fjeld that night with
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span>an
+    English gentleman, whose servant most kindly gave me his bed. After
+    awhile down they came. Enter Torstin, a grand-looking fellow, drenched.
+    They had killed a <i>semle ku</i>, and had left two men behind to bring it
+    down next day. In the morning they arrived with it, forming the wildest
+    reunion of hunters. The Finmark dog, quite black, looked a beauty as
+    he lay by the dead reindeer. “Blenk”&mdash;for such was his name&mdash;was a
+    good and trusty servant: neither biped nor quadruped would venture to
+    interfere with him when he was on duty. It was a splendid group, worthy
+    of the pencil of a Landseer.</p>
+
+  <p>After the pouring rain of the previous evening, which had continued
+    through the night, we all had hopes of fine weather for our trip,
+    and still more did we desire to see, before leaving, Utigaard in the
+    beauty of sunshine. But no; on arising at about five, we found dirtier
+    weather than ever; the mist low down; Blenk still keeping watch by the
+    reindeer which had been brought down; every kind of waterproof oilskin
+    being looked out; and a great demand for sou’-westers. At last the
+    <i>stolkjær</i> was packed, and everything ready to go down to the boats.
+    The baggage on the <i>stolkjær</i> was surmounted by a reindeer head, Blenk
+    ever in attendance, and Torstin Utigaard of Utigaard leading the pony
+    as our chief. Then we were off, looking something between fishermen and
+    smugglers.</p>
+
+  <p>It was with much regret we took our last look at Utigaard as we settled
+    down in the boats <i>en route</i> for Syltebø. The valley was grand in
+    the extreme, the mist sometimes breaking up over the sky-line with a
+    sudden rush, as if thankful to get loose and range over the fjeld with
+    freedom. Hardly were we under way, and the crew settled down to the
+    steady-going pace which Norwegians can keep up for any length of time,
+    when Utigaard burst out wondering who could have been the figures he
+    telescoped on the snow on the previous day&mdash;the fellows who had nearly
+    spoilt their sport and frightened their deer at the very moment when
+    they thought they had the “rein” well in hand. What could people be
+    doing up there? why should they go? who had ever seen any one in that
+    part of the fjeld? At last the thought flashed across his mind that it
+    might have been us. Was it? Yes, most undoubtedly it was, but happily
+    we had unintentionally turned the deer; it was, however, the right<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span>
+    way, so no harm had been done. The deer had been bagged, and we now all
+    rejoiced together.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="i_170">
+    <img class="illow70" src="images/i_170.jpg"  alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Eikesdal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>As the three boats rowed steadily in solemn procession down the <i>vand</i>
+    we approached the Vika Pass on the starboard side. At this point the
+    lake is most imposing, its grandeur much enhanced by the mist, which
+    is ever changing, ever beautiful in form and intensity. Soon some of
+    the favourite old Norwegian songs were started, the chorus being echoed
+    by the other boats. On the opposite side of the Vika Pass there had
+    been a great <i>steen-skreed</i>; and so immense are the surroundings that
+    it was <span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span>impossible to realise the extent of the devastation until
+    we approached the base of it, as it had dashed and lumbered into the
+    lake; then the huge masses revealed themselves in their unmistakable
+    proportions, dwarfing our boats to mere insignificant specks by their
+    side.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_171f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_171f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Volda.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_171f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Near this spot bears have been seen, and one was tracked only lately.
+    This led to the subject of bear-traps and “self-shooters,” when the
+    Tentmaster-general enlarged on the <i>modus operandi</i> adopted by the
+    postmaster at Sundal. He knew there were bears, and having fully
+    studied the spot, determined to lay a “self-shooter,” if possible, or
+    at all events a trap; and this he very ingeniously so arranged that
+    when the trap caught Master Bruin a red flag should go up: this he
+    could see with a telescope from the post-office as he sat sorting the
+    letters. Some people had noticed that the latter operation took much
+    longer than usual about this time; still no one attributed the delay to
+    the postmaster’s love of bear-hunting, and they little thought that he
+    sorted with one eye and watched for Bruin with the other. At last one
+    day the postmaster saw the red flag. This was too much; the letter eye
+    immediately joined the fun. He was off at once to the bear, shot him,
+    and brought him home; and during the year he managed to get four.</p>
+
+  <p>Hard as it rained, we were very sorry when our boat trip drew to a
+    close, and we felt that we should soon have to bid farewell to Torstin
+    and Eikesdal Lake, with its many joys, rough life, and hearty welcomes.
+    We had a glorious walk from the lake to Syltebø, and were glad when
+    we saw in the distance the white house which was to be our haven of
+    rest, and to welcome us as friends. Soon after our arrival our host
+    came in from the river with a good fish; and many a one has been taken
+    from that stream, in spite of the change which has come over Norwegian
+    rivers within the last few years. When English sportsmen began fishing
+    in Norway the <i>bönder</i> attached no value to salmon. They were surprised
+    to see them caught with such slight rods and tackle; but, as soon as it
+    dawned upon them that salmon were worth so much per pound, they began
+    to help themselves by netting them at the mouth of the river, before
+    they could ascend the stream which the enthusiastic Piscator had <span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span>paid
+    a good sum to rent. The natural consequence is that Norwegian rivers do
+    not afford the sport they once did.</p>
+
+  <p>Whilst shooting at Syltebø, one of my friends found a beautiful
+    specimen of amethystic crystal of considerable size. From here a
+    steamer runs to Molde, one of the northern sea-coast centres, and true
+    to its time the little screw came off the landing-place with hardly
+    any one on board, for the season was far advanced: most tourists and
+    sportsmen had returned, and we enjoyed it all the more, as it afforded
+    us a better opportunity of seeing the people themselves.</p>
+
+  <p>The variety in Norwegian travel adds greatly to one’s enjoyment. In
+    the present trip we started from a rich expansive valley; thence
+    we ascended through woods of birch and alder by a torrent’s side,
+    vegetation became stunted and sparse, mosses gradually disappeared,
+    and lichens preponderated; then came barren boulders, and, above all,
+    the everlasting snow. Having attained this, our journey was varied
+    by a descent to the wild gorge of Utigaard; the Lake of Eikesdal, a
+    vast body of water, with its grand fall; then again, after the boating
+    procession, through the valley of Syltebø, by the side of its salmon
+    river, to the sea; and finally we were on the deck of the bustling
+    little screw steamer. On stopping at the first place we were surprised
+    to see a large boat coming off, mushroomed with huge umbrellas, whence
+    issued the music of Norwegian voices, and evidently those of ladies;
+    but as they neared the steamer the soft strains ceased, and they
+    came alongside in silence. Our array of oilskins, waterproofs, and
+    sou’-westers announced that foreigners were on board. We, however,
+    considered that this treasure trove should not be a dead letter on
+    a rainy day, and the Patriarch broached the subject of Norwegian
+    music, which happily led to an encore of all the boat songs and
+    many others, reinforced with much gusto by the chorus of oilskins,
+    waterproofs, and sou’-westers. They were a happy band&mdash;all ladies and
+    no gentlemen&mdash;going to a party at the <i>præstegaard</i>, some few miles
+    down the fjord. They assured us the priest would be very pleased to
+    see us, and give us a hearty welcome. It was with much regret we were
+    compelled to decline the invitation, especially as it would have
+    afforded a pleasing episode in our trip, and given us an opportunity
+    of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span>seeing the <i>vie intime</i> of a Norwegian minister’s home <i>en fête</i>.
+    As their boat left the steamer, they sang one of our favourite songs,
+    and our modest chorus followed it at a gradually increasing distance
+    until both faded away. After this cheerful but soaking morning we
+    comforted ourselves with stories of the fjeld, salmon, and Norwegian
+    life. Happily the Tentmaster-general was in great force, and, when
+    called upon for a yarn, responded with “muckle hilarity,” giving us one
+    of his reindeer experiences. Can we do better than repeat it here?</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_172f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_172f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Syltebø: with Farm Implements.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_172f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>First scene, <i>tente abri</i> on the fjeld. Snow close above; in fact,
+    too much snow for sport. The Tentmaster-general telescoping alone in
+    the camp, if one may so call two tents. Having had a very hard and
+    weary stalk on the previous day, he was resting whilst the Major and
+    Dan went up after deer. Soon after they had settled down to work, the
+    Finmark dog “Passop” became very uneasy, and so fretted the string by
+    which he was led that Dan thought he might break away, which would be
+    sudden destruction to everything; he therefore carried the dog in his
+    arms. Shortly afterwards, Dan, doubtlessly becoming slightly tired of
+    carrying the dog, relaxed his hold a little. At that moment Passop
+    caught sight of a buck, sprang from Dan’s arms, and bolted after the
+    deer. Dan threw up his arms in despair, and gave vent to several
+    Norwegian hunting quotations unfavourable to Passop’s future happiness.
+    One thing was certain&mdash;the dog would go till he died from sheer
+    exhaustion, and Dan would never recover his favourite Finmarker. Dan
+    soliloquised, and watched long with his telescope, and finally gave way
+    to grief. The next few hours were very blank and sad&mdash;deer and Passop
+    both gone. In the afternoon, with melancholy thoughts and sluggish
+    conversation, they began retracing their steps to the camp, which
+    was about six miles distant. As soon as they were in sight of their
+    fjeld home the Tentmaster-general came cheerfully to meet them, for he
+    had seen seven deer steadily going down to a lake, and had anxiously
+    awaited the return of Passop. No time, however, was to be lost. Off he
+    went in pursuit alone, with the Major’s rifle. Hardly had he got away
+    from the camp when he caught a glimpse of more deer&mdash;two this time,
+    both going to the edge. He lay down to watch them, for patience as well
+    as judgment <span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span>is required in reindeer work. After some time a strange
+    sound, like the bark of a dog, came down; but who ever heard the bark
+    of a dog in the wilds of the fjeld and on the snow? Listening again, in
+    a few minutes, from behind a huge boulder, came a <i>stor buck</i> straight
+    on, with a dog close behind. What a chance! Happily the Tentmaster was
+    equal to the occasion. In the twinkling of an eye the shot was fired,
+    the buck was hit, but carried his bullet with him, and made for the
+    water. The dog gaining on him a little, he dashed into the water to
+    swim for it; but Passop dashed in too, for by this time our hunter had
+    recovered from his astonishment at the strange dog, and recognised it
+    as Passop. The ice-water of these lakes is, of course, intensely, cold,
+    and the dog was obliged to come back: he, however, did not do so until
+    he had had a good tug at the deer, which by this time had turned on his
+    side and was dead. A second time Passop tried to reach him, and was
+    obliged to return; but the third time he got on his back, and sitting
+    there, held the horns in his teeth. As the dog could not bring him
+    ashore, what was to be done? By this time the Major had come up, and
+    determined to swim for him, and tow him on shore. The ice-water was too
+    cold for him also, and he was obliged to turn back. The deer was too
+    far out to lasso, even could they lead the line up from the camp. But
+    <i>nil desperandum</i>. Hardly had their wondering got full swing when a
+    tremendous squall swept down the hillside, caught the deer and Passop,
+    and they drifted in. The Major made another attempt, and the deer was
+    landed. They were soon off to the camp, where Dan, with a very sad
+    heart, was preparing <i>speise</i>. When the latter looked up and saw them
+    coming, accompanied by his beloved dog, his expression soon changed,
+    and Passop was caught up into his arms as quickly as he had sprung
+    from them in the morning, while Dan, with a radiant face and his head
+    a little on one side, turning round to the Tentmaster-general, said,
+    “Good man, Maget good man.” Passop was made much of, Dan’s happiness
+    restored, and the one bottle of champagne was iced in the snow, to
+    drink to “Rensdyr jagt paa hoie fjeld.” It was a great day happily
+    terminated, and long to be remembered.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span></p>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_175.jpg" alt="F" /></span>OR
+    some days we had been on the tramp, and arrived
+    at Indfjord. Thursday, August 20th, 1875, was a sad day there. Returned
+    from a long tour through very wild, rough districts, where neither food
+    nor lodgings were to be had, we were settling down for a good night’s
+    rest, certainly under difficulties, at the house of a good farmer named
+    Ole Erikson Boe, when the gruesome news came of a disaster in the
+    mountains above. A tremendous rock crash, or <i>steen-skreed</i>, had taken
+    place at a spot called Sylbotten, some three thousand feet above, where
+    there were two <i>sæters</i> occupied by two <i>piger</i>, who had charge of the
+    cows belonging to the good people down the valley. We started off at
+    once. In a more than quiet spot like this, with what a crash does such
+    news burst upon every one! What sympathy it brings out; what interest
+    in the details of the occurrence! What sadness marks each face, and how
+    quiet and subdued all are, though all are talking!</p>
+
+  <p>We pass on, with a little provision in our wallets, and soon come to
+    some reapers in the valley, working in the fields, with leather aprons
+    for their protection. We started with Halve Jacobsen, the owner of
+    the <i>sæter</i>, who went up, taking a pony and foal, in case the mare’s
+    services were required: the foal always runs by the mother. On our sad
+    mission we could not be otherwise than struck with the joyfulness of
+    this young animal, its abounding spirits, caprioles, and quirks and
+    capers. Before arriving at the steep part of the ascent we stopped at
+    a small outbuilding close to the farm, the front of the house looking
+    over the Indfjord, with a grand expanse before one, the morning light
+    shimmering down to the edge of the water far, far below, and all
+    seeming peace and gladness. At the back of the house, between that and
+    the <i>laave</i>, we found a vastly different scene&mdash;pain, grief, and heavy
+    hearts. What a contrast to the brightness on the fjord side&mdash;the sunny
+    side that was! The anxious group was in shadow, comparatively speaking,
+    the centre attraction being a roughly made stretcher, on which was
+    lying, hardly conscious, pale,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span>
+    agonized, and bone-broken, Ingeborg,
+    Erichsdatter, Griseth. Poor girl! she had been brought down some three
+    thousand feet by a very steep <i>sæter</i> path&mdash;for there was hardly any
+    road&mdash;jogged and shaken, with one leg broken, ribs crushed, and her
+    face much cut and bruised by the cracking up of the <i>sæter</i> before the
+    overwhelming force which carried it away. Around her were the <i>bönder</i>
+    folk, and one poor old woman whose grief seemed beyond consolation.
+    The autumn was advanced, and the winter coming quickly on, for the
+    first snow days had begun. She had only one cow to support her: that
+    was at Sjolbotten, and was killed, so her only hope of livelihood was
+    for the moment swept from her, as no cow could be got under £5, and
+    “no siller had she.” What a chance for some rich Samaritan to heal a
+    broken heart for the small sum of £5!<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span>
+    But as “many a mickle makes a
+    muckle,” so, doubtless, would a new cow be bought by the kindly spirits
+    of the good Indfjord folk. Their love for each other is a lesson to
+    even the most civilised among us. Indeed, it is very noticeable that
+    small communities care for everybody, while large masses notice no
+    individual&mdash;only charitable institutions.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_176">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_176.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Looking across Indfjord.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>But we have not yet commenced the ascent. The mare leads through the
+    brushwood, the cheerful foal diverging now and then in the self-conceit
+    of all young things, fancying they know better than their mothers. It
+    was a steep climb. The mare slipped; but Halve said it was all right,
+    she knew the way. The morning was warm, and, as soon as we arrived
+    at a kind of ledge looking over the valley and fjord, we halted.
+    What a lovely, or rather, what a grand scene it was! Still there was
+    no forgetting our <span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span>mission&mdash;no shaking off its sadness. Our present
+    object, after Ingeborg’s arrival, was to go up and see after her
+    companion, Ingrana. Our halt was not for long. We had already taken off
+    our coats, and hung them on a pine-stump. To our surprise, Halve left
+    his there until our return, and said, when we did not, “You can leave
+    anything as you like in Gamle Norge.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_177">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_177.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Halt at Griseth.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>En route</i>, in three hours we had left our last brier and alder behind,
+    and were on the plateau of the High Fjeld, and found much <i>smörgrass</i>,
+    so good for cows. As <i>smör</i> is the Norse for butter, it will explain
+    the name. For a long time we tramped over the <i>botten</i>, carpeted with
+    rich flora; but at the end we saw the <i>steen-skreed</i>, or landslip. Some
+    four or five <i>bönder</i> were already there, and seemed very surprised
+    to see a foreigner coming up with Halve. A few words of explanation,
+    and all was understood: one common object in view, that of helping
+    each other, soon bound us together. Ingrana naturally had not been to
+    sleep since the disaster. It is difficult to imagine any Norske <i>pige</i>
+    nervous, but poor Ingrana had been shaken and frightened out of her
+    wits. Her description, after a little entreaty and patience on the
+    part of the persuader, ran thus:&mdash;Early in the morning Ingrana was
+    awakened by a heavy rolling sound of thunder, followed directly by a
+    crash. She rushed from her <i>sæter</i>, and, coming out of her door, saw
+    Ingeborg’s <i>sæter</i> carried away and buried. It is difficult to realise
+    the feelings of this simple-minded girl, living so solitary a life for
+    three months. In a moment&mdash;a second of time&mdash;one was taken and the
+    other left. Ten cows also were buried; and, no help being at hand,
+    Ingrana had to go down this lonely mountain with the sad news, leaving
+    her companion fixed, pinned, and crushed until she could return with
+    assistance.</p>
+
+  <p>We arrived after three and a half hours’ hard ascent, when some sour
+    milk that had been left was given us. The Englishman elicited a smile
+    from Ingrana when, taking the bowl from his lips, his moustache was
+    white with cream. This was hopeful and a good sign.</p>
+
+  <p>The slip was accelerated by a very large waterspout striking the face
+    of the mountain, as amongst the rocks which were brought down was a
+    quantity of sand, and the presence and action of water were palpable,
+    deep <span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span>pools being left in many places. The scene was appalling&mdash;a
+    wreck in the wildest sense of the word. Some three-quarters of a mile
+    of mountain side had come down, carrying all before it&mdash;<i>rammeding</i>,
+    as the Norse word is. Huge rocks, a few stunted trees, hardly any kind
+    of herbage&mdash;what a hurly-burly of desolation! Looking across and over
+    it, we saw the distant placid fjord and open sea. What a contrast, the
+    peace of one and the turbulence of the other! Still the damage was a
+    known quantity, every year something of the kind happening, sometimes
+    with loss of life, sometimes without. The accompanying sketch was taken
+    from the lower portion, looking upwards.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_179f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_179f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Landslip at Sylbotten; Indfjord.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_179f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>After going over the greater part of this chaos we went back to the
+    preserved <i>sæter</i>, where we were most kindly received, our sympathy
+    being accepted in the same spirit in which it was offered. Then we
+    returned. We found Halve’s coat quite safe and undisturbed, and after
+    the usual time arrived at Ole Erikson Boe’s farm, where we had a simple
+    repast of good <i>fladbrod</i> and <i>bunker</i>, there being no meat here. We
+    rested, and early in the morning started for Fiva. During the evening
+    Boe showed me an old Danske Bible, folio size, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1590, with
+    large brass clasps. The good folk wanted me to bring my wife to the
+    funeral, in case the poor girl should not survive. In the morning we
+    went down to the shore, as we heard the steamer for Molde was coming
+    in to take Ingeborg thither, should she be still alive. Life was all
+    but extinct when she was got on board. Ole Fiva and myself started in
+    a boat for Veblungsnæs, having thanked the good people of Indfjord
+    for their kind welcome, and they expressing their gratitude for our
+    interest and sympathy, and reiterating their desire to welcome my wife
+    at Indfjord.</p>
+
+  <p>The morning was lovely for boat travel; such peace that convulsions
+    like those we had witnessed seemed incredible. But it was no dream: the
+    inhabitants of Indfjord, the family of Ingeborg, Ingrana, and the poor
+    woman without her solitary cow, all were stern realities.</p>
+
+  <p>Soon after our return to Fiva we heard that Ingeborg was dead, had
+    been taken back from Molde, and was to be buried in the <i>gravested</i>
+    at Indfjord on September 2nd, 1875. Accordingly, early that morning
+    we started in carrioles from Fiva to Veblungsnæs, where myself, wife,
+    daughter,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span>
+    and Ole Fiva took a boat with six oars for Indfjord. A
+    lovely, peaceful morning it was as we left the landing-place at
+    Veblungsnæs. Soon the six oars began their sturdy dip as we came under
+    the shadow of the mountains: the dip was strong, as Norwegians only
+    can row for a long travelling sweep and perfect time. After settling
+    down with our <i>tine</i> of provisions&mdash;for we were travelling Norskily,
+    and no Norske is complete without a well-filled <i>tine</i>&mdash;a sad tone
+    seemed pervading the boat: our mission was one of sympathy for the
+    bereavement of others, with an after-thought of thankfulness that
+    we had been spared in health, and were sound in body and bone. But
+    the melancholy of every one was broken by a remark from Ole that we
+    should soon see the Runic <i>steen</i>, which is about half a Norske mile
+    from Veblungsnæs. A lieutenant of engineers, who was superintending
+    a new bridge, had described this stone to us, and we were eager to
+    see it. At last we came upon it. The boatman ran alongside, and threw
+    water over it to develop it. In nine hundred years pluvial attrition
+    alone is sure to make its mark, to say nothing of our energetic friend
+    Neptune’s constant stormdrift and tempest. (The writer would apologize
+    for the term “pluvial attrition,” but there are so many long words
+    about just now, what with street advertisements and urban authors.) A
+    general view of the Runic stone is given in the opposite engraving,
+    while the initial ornament on <a href="#Page_175">page 175</a> was drawn from a plant plucked
+    on the spot. The letters are thirteen in number, and their length about
+    eighteen inches. Twelve feet from the sea-level, under low-water mark,
+    and projecting some few feet, runs a ledge of rocks, beneath which is
+    supposed to be secreted untold wealth.</p>
+
+  <p>The translation of these Runic hieroglyphics is, “The Court of
+    Justice,” and this inscription was evidently placed in a conspicuous
+    position to guide any who came to the court in old pagan days; for
+    Romsdal was one of the last of the pagan strongholds. Above, high up,
+    close to Sylbotten, was a pagan temple; but the Court of Justice was
+    held at Devold, Romsdal.</p>
+
+  <p>There was now a regular good settle down for a long pull. Up to this
+    time we have been in shadow, but now we round a point, and taking what
+    a landsman would call the “first on the left,” we go due south down to
+    Indfjord. The sea-water is beautifully clear, reflecting the quartz
+    rocks. <i>à merveille</i>, like the good old chandeliers of our grandfathers
+    after a spring <span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span>cleaning; the rich sunlit yellow seaweed is grander
+    far than ormolu; and here are three herons in repose, water-ousels with
+    their snow-white breasts, and now and then sparkles by an old cormorant
+    or diver. As we go down the fjord the snow range at the end of it
+    blocks in everything, the morning mist waiting in the valley for exit,
+    if possible.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_180f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_180f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Runic Stone, with Inscription, near Indfjord.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_180f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_181f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_181f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Gravested: Ingeborg’s Funeral, Indfjord.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_181f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>By this time we near the hamlet, and high above us on the left, on a
+    kind of plateau, we see many figures congregated. They were in front of
+    Erich’s house, Griseth being the name of the farm. We soon steered in,
+    and then between two boathouses, at a rude pile-driven landing-place,
+    the well-known scrape of keel on shore was heard, and we had safely
+    arrived at Indfjord. Griseth had sent down to meet us and invite us
+    up to the house, but we return the message that we would rather not
+    disturb the family, but await their arrival at the <i>gravested</i>; so,
+    with our <i>tine</i>, we picked out a spot for lunch, and enjoyed some
+    cold reindeer meat, biscuit, cheese, &amp;c. During lunch we could see
+    the <i>bönder</i> folk collecting high up at Griseth, overlooking the
+    fjord, and at two o’clock we saw them by the telescope start down the
+    narrow mountain path, the coffin being lashed on to the little cart to
+    prevent it slipping. Soon they were lost in a dip of the wood, from
+    which they emerged nearer to us. As we stood at the <i>gravested</i>, or
+    graveplace&mdash;like our word homestead, home-place&mdash;a man came up and
+    shook hands with us, and then standing on the wall, commenced tolling
+    the bell; for there is no church, but only a bell-tower.</p>
+
+  <p>Soon the procession drew near. First came the coffin, black, lashed on
+    to the hay-cart, and drawn by a beautiful young <i>blakken</i>, or Norske
+    pony, whose collar was of old carved wood painted, the <i>bonde</i> driver
+    walking behind the coffin, which bore three wreaths of wild flowers. At
+    a distance behind the coffin followed the men, and after an interval
+    the sorrowing women, who were succeeded by men of the family, many
+    sad hearts, and Ingrana. It was a modest but impressive scene. When
+    the pony arrived at the <i>gravested</i>, hearing the tolling bell, he
+    shied and jibbed, as if regretting what he had done. The coffin was
+    therefore carried in at once. There being no clergyman, a friend sang
+    a hymn. The coffin was lowered into the grave; the wreaths removed;
+    the ropes withdrawn. Some one said to Ingrana, “You were lucky to
+    escape.” “I could not have been <span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span>ready,” she said; “God wanted me not,
+    and left me a little longer. She was ready,” meaning Ingeborg, whom
+    they were burying. They then sang the second hymn, “Hjemme, Hjemme,”
+    as the friends shovelled the earth in, and the heavy thud of the large
+    spadeful boomed like parts of Handel’s “Dead March” in <i>Saul</i>. After
+    filling in the grave the wreaths were placed on the newly raised mound,
+    and the ceremony closed with “Hjemme.” The weird sea birds screamed,
+    and all went away together. Many will recount the story of Ingeborg,
+    Erichsdatter, Griseth.</p>
+
+  <p>Before leaving the <i>gravested</i> the grave-boards must be noted, they
+    being so remarkable in form, so quaint, and also so Bosphoric.
+    Sometimes a white butterfly is introduced, as typical of the soul.
+    How different from the present association with the allegory of their
+    transient nothingness! After the funeral we had to pay two or three
+    visits. All the farmers wanted us to visit them&mdash;some to tell of
+    sport, others to offer us <i>aqua vitæ</i> and stamped cakes like the Dutch
+    <i>waffles</i>; and when we returned to Ole Erikson Boe’s he gave me an old
+    Norske belt as a memento of our visit, which we need hardly say is most
+    carefully treasured.</p>
+
+  <p>So passed away Ingeborg, Erichsdatter of Griseth, while Ingrana
+    remained waiting her bidding.</p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_182.jpg" alt="I" /></span>STERDAL
+    is full of interest and character, with
+    a wild river, precipitous mountains on either side, snow on the high
+    peaks above, a rushing of waters below, hardly any track, and shut in
+    by a façade of rock at the end of the valley; and yet it is the way
+    from Romsdal to Valdal. Let us, therefore, explore it, and do so in
+    two fyttes&mdash;a short carriole ride to the <i>sæter</i> with the ladies, and
+    beyond, high, high up, for real research without the ladies.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Place aux dames.</i> We tried the short journey with two carrioles, and
+    for an English mile or two we did pretty well, as they will go anywhere
+    and over anything; but as we got into the scrubwood and underwood the
+    road grew worse, the wheels going sometimes over a boulder one or two
+    feet in height, the axle assuming an alarming angle, and the <i>skyd-gut</i>
+    hanging on <span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span>the high side to keep the vehicle from turning over&mdash;first
+    one side and then the other&mdash;till the fair occupants of the machine
+    were shaken to a jelly, and would fain try to walk. Still we all
+    persevere, and soon arrive at the meal-mill, given in the accompanying
+    page illustration. What a retired spot for business! Who would ever
+    think of it as a centre to draw customers and found a business&mdash;as
+    a likely spot for a man beginning with the conventional half-crown
+    becoming the architect of his own fortune?</p>
+
+  <p>The water seen here is the Ister&mdash;ever thick and muddy, and always in
+    violent motion. What a contrast to the calm dignity of the adjacent
+    mountains in all their graduated phases! A little above this is a shoot
+    which brings down water to turn the mill. On our arrival the miller
+    comes out with a quiet kind of welcome, and very kindly shows us the
+    stones doing their share of work to bring about <i>fladbrod</i> for the
+    people of the valley during their summer visit: it is for the <i>sæter</i>
+    people they work principally.</p>
+
+  <p>Leaving the mill, we pass on to the denser scrub and brushwood. We had
+    with us an old Skye terrier, full of noble traits of character&mdash;courage
+    and endurance&mdash;but being as blind as Belisarius, and running against
+    some of the rocks in the track, he was not only thrown on his haunches,
+    but his nerve was shaken&mdash;that Highland nerve which is of such rare
+    stuff. Let us immortalise our blind Norwegian canine traveller by a
+    description. If lost, an advertisement should run thus:&mdash;“Lost, a
+    brindled Skye terrier, answering to the name of ‘Kyle.’ Rough broken
+    hair, broad chest, short-legged, bow-legged, middle-aged and strong,
+    and carries his tail high. True to the core, with a head as large as a
+    deerhound’s. Teeth to match.” The Norwegians at first thought it would
+    be well to shoot him, but when they came to know him better he soon
+    enlisted them all among his many ardent admirers.</p>
+
+  <p>Perhaps the idea may flit across the mind of some, Why bring a blind
+    Scotch terrier into a work on Norway? This is why: old Kyle was taken
+    that day for a young bear by a simple-minded Norwegian cow. Never were
+    fear and fright more vividly portrayed than by the action of that
+    animal, and of her tail especially, on the first glimpse of the brown
+    brindled terrier. Hearing his name mentioned, he has just wagged his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span>
+    tail, which is quite flat, like an otter’s, and when very pleased he
+    wags it with the flat side on to the floor to produce more sound.</p>
+
+  <p>By this time we are at the <i>sæter</i>, where the <i>piger</i> have come to look
+    after the cows until September. Having driven on to the only flat piece
+    of grass, we unpack for lunch, when the produce of the aforesaid cows
+    comes to our comfort in an unadulterated form, and thoroughly is the
+    simple fare enjoyed. After lunch we visit the interior of the <i>sæter</i>,
+    and find spinning going on steadily, a little national tune being
+    hummed to the whirring wheel accompaniment. The weaving is done during
+    the winter months. In the summer a little spinning is done, but only by
+    the most industrious.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_184">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_184.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Spinning in the Sæter: Isterdal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>To see Isterdal the only way is to walk. Let us, therefore, continue
+    on from the <i>sæter</i> in the direction of the Valdal. This was done
+    with Ole Fiva. Soon we began to ascend, for the end of the valley is
+    precipitous, with a fine fall, the top of which must be reached before
+    arriving at the plateau, <i>botten</i>, or <i>balloch</i>. On commencing the
+    ascent Ole pointed out in the river below a spot where a bear had been
+    killed; and higher up <span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span>again where a bear lived, for he had seen it
+    there. Some idea of the situation is given by the opposite woodcut,
+    with the <i>aiguilles</i> on the right. This is looking down Isterdal. The
+    path was effaced the day before we passed by the descent of a quantity
+    of rough stuff, more than sufficient to have carried us with it into
+    the valley beneath. The <i>aiguilles</i> are of a similar formation to the
+    Troltinderne in Romsdal, and seem to be a nursery of trolds for future
+    ages.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_185f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_185f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Head of the Valley: Isterdal.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_185f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The evening glows on these pinnacles are marvellously and beautifully
+    grand, and the transitions of hue from one to the other beyond
+    imagination and conception. Still we work up. Ole, ignoring the
+    slightly defined regular track, goes up really awful places, hauling
+    himself up, and astonishing his follower and companion by displaying
+    the most unnecessary and enviable agility. All honour to such strength
+    and energy! By this time we had reached the plateau from which the
+    murky Ister takes a header into the valley which lay at our feet. Once
+    on the plateau, we could get along better over the stunted flora and
+    bare rocks, with snow here and there, especially on the south-west
+    side. The track is indicated by a few pieces of rock, put here and
+    there in a pile, which being of the same formation as the rock we
+    are walking on, the similarity of colour makes them very indistinct
+    at times: the best way is to look out for one on the sky-line, if
+    possible. After a long tramp we crossed the Ister again, and found
+    it still more turbid, which was puzzling, as it seemed to come from
+    a glacier above; but of this more anon. We worked on until we could
+    look down Valdal, and having drunk in nature in that direction, took a
+    little food from our wallets, and lay down for an <i>al fresco</i> siesta on
+    a handsome natural carpet of <i>fjelde reis</i> and other vegetation.</p>
+
+  <p>After that, Ole began telling of expeditions, traditions, and
+    excursions to the Jager’s Steen, and formally wound up with the report
+    of a frozen lake which a hunter had seen, but which had not been
+    visited since. Could we find it? Was the Herr inclined to go? “Most
+    certainly.” So we started.</p>
+
+  <p>There is a wonderful sense of freedom, and yet of a closer commune with
+    one’s Creator, in wandering over almost untrodden ground to admire<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span>
+    some portion of his works that have been rarely visited by man. It is
+    suggestive of drawing aside the veil of the tabernacle of nature; and
+    happy is the man who derives comfort and soul strength in so doing!
+    Ole led straight up over rocks bare and betumbled; not a symptom of
+    vegetation; above us a glacier coming to the edge of a precipice, and
+    the melting ice forming a fringed fall. We lay down, looking over
+    the side on a bed of scarlet and crimson <i>fjelde reis</i>, a kind of
+    cotoneaster. Beyond this ledge we saw the glacier imperceptibly coming
+    on, backed in the long perspective of glacial blocks by a huge bare
+    mass of rock, the Biskop, and the Drönningen. This was the source of
+    the Ister. The water, some distance from the foot of the fall, passed
+    over a soft deposit, which sullied its pristine purity right down
+    to the sea, the “murky Ister,” thus acquiring near its origin its
+    characteristic turbidity.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_186" >
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_186.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Melting Glacier over Valdal.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Now for a try for the unknown lake. Ole keeps on, thinking he has his
+    bearings all right. At last, having climbed up by the side of a fall
+    dashing down through bare rocks, came the summit, and creeping round a
+    boulder, before us lies a lake intensely deep in colour, and full of
+    icebergs and floes <span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span>of old ice. Where we stood there was snow, with
+    tracks of reindeer; but in places the former had melted, the <em>lemmings</em>
+    had been there, and the reindeer-flowers were coming up. These we eat
+    with <i>fladbrod og smör</i> after a time, for we could not at once settle
+    down to a snack without paying a tribute of respect to the majesty of
+    nature before us. Beginning our meal in earnest, in the midst of it we
+    heard a noise like a roll of thunder, the direction of which we soon
+    discovered. On the left side of the lake the vast expanse of snow was
+    riven by a gigantic avalanche, which ploughed its way down, and, coming
+    to the edge of the rocks, plunged headlong into the lake, agitating all
+    the ice, and causing the icebergs to jostle each other; but both water
+    and ice soon regained their equilibrium, and nature lay before us in
+    solemn silence and undisturbed majesty. It can well be imagined that
+    having once attained such a spot&mdash;some 5,000 feet above the sea&mdash;there
+    was a desire to linger, though the day was fading, and we had five and
+    a half hours’ walk home. However, “En route!” was the word. Straight
+    down from bare rock to rock simply ends in no knees after a time, and
+    one’s legs become something between strips of asparagus and sea-kale.
+    There was, however, one thing in store: once on a fair road, we could
+    make some running. It was a lovely evening: we were late, it was true,
+    but, as horses go freely with their noses towards home, we both took
+    to the road very kindly, and went along with a will. Ole did not talk
+    much. It is the pace that kills, and after sixteen hours’ trudge with
+    our provisions, he no doubt felt that he had done enough. With health
+    and strength, such a day amidst grand scenery is a joy for ever.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow80" id="i_187">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_187.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Church Axe.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="page" />
+  <div class="chapter">
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span>
+    <h2 class="nobreak" id="CEREMONIES_WEDDINGS_ETC">VIII.<br />CEREMONIES, WEDDINGS, ETC.</h2>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="summary">
+    WEDDINGS&mdash;COSTUME&mdash;THE PROCESSION TO THE CHURCH&mdash;THE
+    BRIDE’S RETURN&mdash;MOTTOES&mdash;BETROTHAL AND
+    MARRIAGE&mdash;CONFIRMATION&mdash;FUNERALS&mdash;THEIR “ONLY
+    ONE”&mdash;GRAVE-BOARD INSCRIPTIONS&mdash;HOME LIFE&mdash;ANTIPATHY
+    TO VENTILATION&mdash;NEW CURRENCY&mdash;GEOLOGY&mdash;VARIATIONS IN
+    TEMPERATURE&mdash;WATERFALLS&mdash;POPULATION&mdash;WOOD-CARVING&mdash;OLD
+    SILVER.
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow20"><img src="images/i_191.jpg" alt="I" /></span>N
+    all climes and in all stages of civilisation a wedding is an object
+    of special interest, and is likely to bring forward some traits of
+    national character. The bride is always the great attraction, of
+    course, whether plain or old&mdash;not that any bride should ever be plain,
+    however uncomely featured she may be, for on that day of all others,
+    the spirit should shine through the clay, with every hope of happiness
+    before her; and if there be happiness in the world, surely it must be
+    when the bride becomes the better-half of him she loves. Let us, then,
+    attend a Norske wedding.</p>
+
+  <p>Weddings are not now as they used to be in the “good old days,” when
+    knives and winding-sheets were a part of the programme&mdash;when grim
+    rehearsals of the “Grapplers” were frequently repeated, and two
+    combatants, with one belt round the two waists, grappled and struck
+    until one was vanquished. No; Scandinavian ferocity is subsiding;
+    they think more now of “bleeding” their foreign visitors, and the
+    weddings are sobered down; but the arch-fiend of inebriation tightens
+    his grip, and Norwegian weddings in the provinces are characterized by
+    deep libations and their wretched consequences. Now, having noticed
+    the worst feature of these Northern domestic gatherings, let us turn
+    cheerily to the brighter side of them.</p>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span></p>
+
+  <div class="figleft illow30" id="i_192">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_192.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Naturally costume immensely assists a ceremony like this, and should
+    the bride not have old silver enough of her own, everybody is ready
+    to contribute towards the general result, and is only too glad to do
+    anything in his power to add to the brightness of the occasion. In
+    Norway the bride wears a silver crown, which varies a little in form
+    according to date, the most modern crowns branching out all round more
+    than the older ones. The silver crowns are generally made with hinges,
+    four or six in number, so that they may fold up into a small space for
+    carrying in a <i>tine</i>, or box. The oldest forms are silver-gilt; the
+    more recent are partially gilt, some parts being left bright silver.
+    The bride also wears a thick curb chain, with a medal, which is
+    sometimes set in filigree-work; but in the case under notice the medal
+    was one cast with a fine bust of Nelson. Tidemand, the Norwegian genre
+    painter, has portrayed many scenes of the “Bride preparing to start,”
+    “Dressing the Bride,” &amp;c.</p>
+
+  <p>The procession to the church is generally all-important. First comes
+    the fiddler, next the <i>kander</i> or tankard man, then best man, bride and
+    bridegroom, fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers, friends, relations,
+    and many others&mdash;all the children of the place swarming round the
+    church door. We should observe that there is a stolid immobility about
+    some of the Norwegian <i>piger</i> which seems to become intensified on
+    these occasions; but when they do melt there must be a great overflow
+    of spirit and reaction.</p>
+
+  <p>The picturesque group at the altar of the church takes one back to the
+    Middle Ages: the bride resplendent in costume&mdash;in some cases quaint
+    to a degree, especially in Sætersdalen&mdash;with the old silver brooches,
+    rings, and pendants of generations long gathered to their fathers;
+    the bridegroom also, most likely, in costume, with his best man close
+    by to look after the bridesmaid; in the centre, the Elizabethan ruff,
+    pure white as in Queen Elizabeth’s time, thrown vigorously up by the
+    sombre black gown, renders the priest a prominent figure; while perhaps
+    a ray from the sun, descending on the group, shines upon the bride
+    at the very moment when that ray only <span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span>is wanted to complete the
+    pictorial effect of the grouping and its surroundings. The verger, or
+    clerk, with his long red pole&mdash;the functionary described in a former
+    chapter&mdash;is not on active service to-day to awake the sleepers; in
+    fact, the congregation seems rather inclined to turn the tables and
+    wake him up. The church floor is, as usual, strewn with juniper tips,
+    and after the ceremony the bride and bridegroom start home. Walk, ride,
+    drive, or boat&mdash;that depends on the distance and character of the road
+    to be traversed. They are all picturesque: the water, however, carries
+    the palm, and, as we have before remarked, the whole scene causes one
+    to revert to early days, before carriages were used, or roads were
+    uninviting for travel, and when locomotion was a difficulty.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_193f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_193f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>A Bridal Party crossing the Fjord.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_193f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_193">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_193.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Wedding.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>What an evening it was, “the bride’s return!” As usual in Norway,
+    you cannot go far without crossing a fjord: this the bride had to
+    do. A twenty-oared sea-boat was her water carriage. What peace&mdash;what
+    colour&mdash;what harmony! Was it typical of her future married life? A
+    zephyr just filled the broad sail, the large prow rearing grandly in
+    front, with a huge bunch of flowers and green things innumerable on
+    the top; then a large flag and more flowers at the mast-head; and the
+    rowers every now and then bursting out into a refrain, which as one
+    leaves off the other takes up.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> And how these Norsemen do row&mdash;always
+    together! It is generally allowed, by men of experience in Norway,
+    that so long as the rower is not too “arch-fiended” to sit up, he will
+    always keep time with his oar. The dip of the oars in the calm is
+    delightfully refreshing, and the regular sweep gives an idea of power.
+    Fun is going on at the other end of the boat; for the bride is there
+    on a raised seat, with the bridegroom, supported by their friends.
+    The second boat is being left behind, so the <i>kander-man</i> is holding
+    a large silver tankard to encourage and at the same time joke them.
+    Doubtless a spurt will be put on after this, and another race commenced
+    for the run home; or they may just stop for one more <i>skaal</i> (the
+    bride’s health), and when they have once commenced, be undecided as to
+    going home.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow55" id="i_194">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_194a.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Drinking Horn in the Collection of C. Hampden Wigram, Esq.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow46">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_194b.jpg" alt="" />
+  </div>
+
+  <p>One thing is a comfort, at all events; all through the country there
+    is strong evidence of family affection, and these weddings are only
+    the beginning of a new era of happiness. In Thelemarken, as we have
+    already <span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span>had occasion to remark, one custom is for the bridegroom
+    to elaborately carve the <i>stabur</i>, or family treasure-house, with
+    excellent designs and cunning work, which he effects with his
+    tolle-knife; and another is to carve good mottoes on the large beds and
+    over the doors of the rooms. The following are some from Thelemarken
+    district, that quaint land of short waists, shoulder-blades, and white
+    jackets&mdash;a land abounding with grand old conscientious work; huge
+    timbers made into solid houses; no hurry-skurry, no slurriness, no
+    giving as little as possible for wages received&mdash;real good timber-work;
+    while inside may be found carved chests, some of them family treasures
+    handed down for generations. Motto over bed, carved in: “This is my
+    bed and resting-place, where God gives me peace and rest, that I may
+    healthy arise and serve Him.” Over the entrance to a house: “Stand,
+    house, in the presence of our Lord, assured from all danger, from fire
+    and theft. Save it, thou, O God; bless also all who go in and all who
+    go out here.” The ale-bowls, too, have good mottoes: “Of me you must
+    drink; but swear not, nor ever drink too much.” This motto we would
+    recommend to the licensed victuallers of England, as good for their
+    “pewters.” Another drinking-bowl: “I am as a star unto you, and all
+    the girls drink of me willingly.” Another: “Taste of the fruit of the
+    corn-field, and thank God from your inmost heart.” This one again:
+    “Drink me forthwith, and be thankful, for I shall soon be no more.”
+    These, we say, are good sentiments, and worthy of note; and they must
+    be the outcome of deeply rooted honest hearts, anxious to benefit not
+    only those about them, but those who may follow.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_194f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_194f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Bride’s Return by Water.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_194f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>When the bride returns home there are great doings, with firing of
+    guns, and, as we have before observed, libations and dancing; the
+    latter doing good and giving pleasure, the former, to say the least
+    of them, producing the next day what is known in Scotland as the
+    “blacksmith’s hammer on the forehead.”</p>
+
+  <p>What a contrast to a Norwegian wedding, carried out with all its
+    details, is the modern civilisation of being married before a
+    “Registrar”&mdash;a process which must be sudden death to sentiment, and
+    destructive of all the sacred associations so closely linked with the
+    solemnity of marriage in Norway! Marriage takes time. The Lutheran
+    Church has two distinct services or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> ceremonies, which conduce to
+    the steady-going of the young people concerned, and tend to develop
+    prudent and careful living. There is first the betrothal, and then
+    the wedding. Circumstances decide the particular period between the
+    two events&mdash;one year generally, sometimes two or more; in any case
+    the betrothal is a good preparation for the responsibilities of
+    married life, and certainly works well. One thing is beyond denial&mdash;it
+    affords an opportunity to discover latent objections and bad habits,
+    which might not crop out all at once while the lover is offering a
+    concentrated essence of courtship. By the betrothal system a girl
+    enters upon a certain and marked position, being as it were an aspirant
+    to the honour and dignity of marriage; and this training has generally
+    a most wholesome effect. The same system is likewise carried out by the
+    provincial peasants, though<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> these simple folk are sometimes a little
+    impatient of the second ceremony; but the law of Norway has alleviated
+    any difficulty which might arise from such impetuosity, and taken the
+    same <em>status</em> as that of Scotland.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow65" id="i_196">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_196.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Before the Wedding.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The wedding festival will frequently last a week&mdash;early and late. It is
+    not “What a day we are having!” but “What a week we are having!” The
+    home love of the people is prominently shown on occasions like these;
+    their simple affection and general kindliness can only be the outcome
+    of tenderness and sympathy in their every-day life, when the mothers
+    are so motherly, the fathers so fatherly. No “iceberg dads” are to be
+    found in Norway; they are more like the stoves which every one gathers
+    round for comfort when the chills of life are likely to be forthcoming.
+    And the priest comes out strongly on these occasions, for, as we
+    have previously noticed, he is a part of every family; he shares the
+    troubles of the flocks, and enhances their joys. He is no kill-joy; on
+    the contrary, he enters into all that is going on, joins in the songs,
+    is generally convivial at table, and is not shy of tobacco; he is, in
+    fact, a practical, genial Christian, and consequently does good service
+    to the cause he represents and to his flock.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_197">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_197.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Arrival at Home.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span></p>
+
+  <p>We now come to the last ceremonies of the Church, only remarking on
+    our way the very great importance attached by the Lutheran Church to
+    confirmation. In this the Church does well, and sows good seed at the
+    right time&mdash;seed which is to be the joy of riper years and the backbone
+    of posterity.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow70" id="i_198">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_198.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Hitterdal Church.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>A Norwegian funeral is surrounded by an unwholesome atmosphere of
+    intense melancholy; hope and faith seem trampled down for the moment by
+    the weight of present grief. The Norwegians certainly do not look upon
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span>the arrival of the reaper who puts in the sickle as the “order of
+    release” from the trammels of our lower state. Perhaps their intensity
+    of feeling is a certain relief from which they rebound to a lighter
+    burden in after-life. Their quiet, secluded life encourages this; the
+    very sombreness of the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span>country develops it; and the almost oppressive
+    grandeur of the scenery sustains it; while the absence of birds with
+    joyous song certainly adds to it.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_198f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_198f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Return from the Christening.</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_198f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_199">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_199.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Funeral: Bergen.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Funerals in this country take many forms. First, in towns, for plump,
+    portly burghers, as well as for men of note in letters, politics, or
+    art, there is the old form of coffin chariot, with cock-hatted driver,
+    the horses clothed in all the panoply of funereal darkness, the road
+    sprinkled with juniper or yew twigs, the Death’s head blended with a
+    flame rising from the urn as decoration; the latter the only cheerful,
+    hopeful thought in the whole arrangement. We regret to add that, like
+    weddings, funerals are characterized by heavy libations. As to military
+    obsequies, they are much the same in all lands, and therefore we need
+    say nothing concerning them. And now, away from towns and cemeteries,
+    to the more simple method of taking farewell of passing spirits and
+    lifeless clay.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_200">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_200.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Stolkjær and Boat.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>During the visit to Indfjord a description was given of the funeral of
+    Ingeborg, a good <i>pige</i> swept away by a landslip. How full of sympathy
+    the good folk were; how the finest breed of <i>blakken</i> was brought,
+    with the best carved collar the district could produce, to honour her
+    last remains! <span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span>And in another place we referred to the more common
+    occurrence of the coffin being placed on a <i>stolkjær</i>. During the
+    winter, in some of the most inaccessible farms, such as the Geiranger,
+    where there is no landing-place, the body is kept until spring.
+    This seems protracted agony; but there is the balance of nature&mdash;no
+    decomposition. In the less-frequented rivers a solitary boat may
+    sometimes be seen, containing a funeral party unattended, their sorrow
+    self-contained and unshared by others. The opposite woodcut illustrates
+    a touching incident&mdash;a <i>bonde</i> and wife taking their “only one” to
+    God’s acre. This is secluded life intensified. Their little one&mdash;their
+    treasure and delight, their pet lamb&mdash;was called home, and they had
+    to take it to its resting-place. The poor mother may have borne up
+    bravely, but the sight of the churchyard in the distance was too much
+    for her, and at last she gave way and sobbed over the coffin. But when
+    she arrives the priest with kindly voice and deep sympathy will comfort
+    and cheer her. Little, however, will they talk as they row back, with
+    their hearts full and their home empty. None but those who have had an
+    only one called away can realise the blank&mdash;their “sunbeam” gone. The
+    grave-boards bear simple and pious inscriptions. We append a few here.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_200f">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_200f.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Their “only one.”</i></div>
+    <div class="larger-version">[<a href="images/i_200f_big.jpg">See larger version</a>]</div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="center mt5">LINES ON GRAVE-BOARDS.</p>
+
+  <p class="center xsmall mb2">TRANSLATED WORD FOR WORD FROM THE ORIGINALS.</p>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">ELL OLSDATTER HOEL.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">I was old and weary of my days, and my last footsteps were heavy;
+      but thanks be to Jesus for his mercy, He opened my eyes so that I
+      saw danger was near. In much trouble I must sing. Jesus is always
+      present, and does not take his hand from us. At last I found the
+      well from which my comfort ran.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">INGRID LEDINGSÖIEN.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">To children and friends! is Jesus Christ’s cry: Come, see I come;
+      mourn therefore but with hope.</p>
+
+    <p class="hang">Farewell. I depart. The sorrow you now taste must in love take
+      place. God himself will guard you so that we shall soon without
+      complaint meet before his throne.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">OLE GRÖDAL.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">To my Father I go home; there is rest and quiet; and I know for
+      certain there is also a dwelling there for me prepared. Hear my
+      sigh, Lord, and keep my spirit in thine hand.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span></p>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">OLE WINNEVOLD.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">Away from the world I fly full of trouble home to rest. I am ready
+      to travel when my sweet Jesus will.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">GUNDER GRÖDAL.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">Seven times ten and four years was the goal the Good God had
+      decided for us in our journey home; our mutual mother is earth.
+      There, in the silent home of the grave, ends our last journey.
+      Farewell then, friends, far and near. I wish every one in
+      particular a good end.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">LÖKEN.</p>
+
+  <div class="center-container mb2">
+    <div class="poetry">
+      <div class="stanza">
+        <div class="i0">Through pain Life is born; below the cross sin dies.</div>
+        <div class="i2">After the cross, the crown is given;</div>
+        <div class="i2">After wailing, the cry of victory.</div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+
+  <hr class="short" />
+  <p class="center">INDRE LÖKEN.</p>
+
+  <blockquote>
+    <p class="hang">Now have I triumphed by the blood of the wounds of Jesus. I have
+      found my God, and gladly go to heaven.</p>
+  </blockquote>
+
+  <p>The home life of Norway is very simple throughout: in summer, the
+    perfect enjoyment of the short but bright season; in winter, spinning,
+    weaving, and sledging. The absence of rudeness&mdash;the modern term “chaff”
+    is unknown&mdash;the “even-manneredness” of the people in all classes,
+    must strike a stranger. Whatever may be the class of society, there
+    is always the same kindly politeness. No double set of manners, as
+    civilisation brings about; no rudeness to inferiors, or fawning to
+    superiors; the equal distribution of this world’s goods, combined with
+    innate kindliness, prevents this. No unkindness, for they are tender
+    to all dumb animals, and that is an undoubted sign of sterling worth.
+    And yet, with all this, what jolly little things the children and young
+    folk are! They will make the most charming little curtsey, and then go
+    off, children to the core. A good innocent romp, how they enjoy it! The
+    young girls, too, are so natural, perfectly easy, and well behaved,
+    that it is refreshing to be with them. Nothing prim or starched about
+    them, but good hearts, with the bloom of youth. Their dances, too, how
+    they enjoy them; and then a song, with a chorus from the whole company,
+    and another dance! Capital housewives these Scandinavian maidens should
+    make, for even the <i>fröken</i>, or young girl of position, carries out all
+    the household duties of home, and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span>enters into the real work of life
+    with the greatest earnestness, being mistress of every detail, and yet
+    the most charming of God’s work&mdash;a natural lady. N.B.&mdash;The Patriarch
+    did not lose his heart in Gamle Norge; that was safely at home in the
+    good care of one who has monopolized it ever since he was a boy.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_203">
+      <img class="w100" src="images/i_203.jpg" alt="" />
+      <div class="caption"><i>Sledging.</i></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Norwegian housekeeping is so totally different from anything we
+    have that it will be well to note it here. The wife has greater
+    responsibility and requires more forethought than with us. There are
+    no co-operative stores to which to send a long list; no one calls
+    for orders, or solicits the favour of custom; no inviting circulars
+    or enticing advertisements create an appetite for new purchases, and
+    make one believe that superfluous things are absolutely necessary,
+    and must be had. Nor does the husband go to town every day, and bring
+    back anything the dear wife has forgotten. Her mental powers and good
+    management must be equal to getting everything in before the winter
+    arrives, not for the family only, but for the labourers also; and all
+    this perhaps on slender means, sparse harvests, and bad seasons. In
+    this respect, therefore, if for no other, the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span>betrothal system comes
+    in well, affording the young couple plenty of time for the acquisition
+    of a thorough knowledge of what their new position may necessitate.</p>
+
+  <p>There is one thing, however, Norwegians do not comprehend, and that is
+    the blessing of ventilation. They cannot understand it, and certainly
+    never practise it. Their rooms are stuffed up in every conceivable
+    way. As soon as the cold weather begins the internal atmosphere of the
+    house remains unchanged until the following summer. When you open the
+    door you have to cut your way in; it is as dense as cold turtle, and
+    less agreeable. The marvel is that colds are not more prevalent, from
+    the fact that the good folk wash their necks on Saturday afternoon as
+    a preparation for the Sunday, when they dress in their best, and look
+    like different creatures.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow100" id="i_204">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_204.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>The Gentle Reproof.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span></p>
+
+  <div class="clear center">
+    •<span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span><span class="col2">•</span>
+  </div>
+
+  <p class="drop-img">
+    <span class="drop-img illow25"><img src="images/i_205.jpg" alt="W" /></span>E
+    are drawing near to the end of our tether, and
+    much as we love home, there is not the same buoyancy about the return,
+    however happy or successful the trip may have been, as there is about
+    the start; for the latter is an important event, teeming with hope and
+    expectancy, from the <i>couleur-de-rose</i> descriptions of friends who have
+    preceded us, and who have heartily enjoyed the recapitulation of their
+    adventures, narrow escapes, and temporary deprivations. But it is very
+    different with the end of a journey. There is something of the Ichabod
+    in it; and yet we know not why there should be; for if it has been one
+    of danger, we ought to be thankful that it is over; and if, on the
+    contrary, it has been productive of pleasant associations, we should
+    still be thankful, inasmuch as it will prove a bright spot to fall back
+    upon and refresh ourselves with when wearied in after-life. So we will
+    not be depressed at the end of our trip to Gamle Norge; we would rather
+    think of all the kindnesses of the people, the grand scenery of the
+    coast, the combinations of sea-rock façade and snow, and learn a lesson
+    of contentment and Christian love from the <i>bönder</i> and their happy
+    families.</p>
+
+  <p>Having overcome this very natural feeling of regret that our holiday
+    is over, let us, in conclusion, notice a few leading characteristics
+    of the country which have been unnoted as we passed through it. Its
+    geology is most characteristic, while in variety of climate it stands
+    alone. Its wood-carving, too, has great individuality; and so has its
+    old silver.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+  <div class="footnote clear">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a><span class="smcap">The
+    New Currency of Norway.</span>&mdash;This change from the
+    old specie dollar and skillings came into force on January 1st, 1877,
+    when specie dollars, marks or orts, and skillings became matters of
+    history. The new <i>régime</i> is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <div class="center mt2 mb2">KRONE AND ØRE.</div>
+
+    <div class="ml10"><span class="smcap">Silver</span>. 1 krone = 30 skillings of old Norwegian money = 1s. 1¼d.</div>
+    <div class="ml20">1 krone is divided into 100 øre.</div>
+    <div class="ml15">Silver coins are 1 kroner. Copper coins are 1 øre, 2 øre, 5 øre.</div>
+
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span>
+
+    <p class="center">½ krone = 50 øre.<br />
+      ¼ krone = 25 øre.<br />
+      10 krone = 1000 øre.<br />
+      <span class="smcap">Gold Coins</span> (scarce; gold coins having been introduced only in 1875).<br />
+      10 kroner pieces and 20 krone.<br />
+      <span class="smcap">Notes</span>. 5 kr., 10 kr., 25 kr., 50 kr., 100 kr., 500 kr., 1000 kr.<br />
+      18 kroner = one sovereign English.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Let us, then, take a general view of the geological formation. Any
+    one specially interested in this subject should study the “Geologisk
+    oversigtskart over det Sydlige Norge,” 1858 to 1865, by Theodore
+    Kjerulf og Tellef Dahll; but for others a general idea will suffice.</p>
+
+  <p>1. Gneiss predominates in the Romsdal and Sneehættan districts; also
+    north and south of Sogne fjord, running down to the entrance of
+    Hardanger.</p>
+
+  <p>2. Granite predominates in the south in large areas up to the Vöring
+    Fos, and in detached portions in Vestranden towards Trondhjem.
+    Christiansand is granite.</p>
+
+  <p>3. Sparagmit fjeldets (Norske) is found in Central Norway. This is
+    a comglomerate of red sandstone, and sometimes called red and grey
+    sparagmite.</p>
+
+  <p>4. Trondhjem quartz in the north, really hard schist: not found south
+    of the Dovre fjeld.</p>
+
+  <p>5. Syenite and porphyry round Christiania.</p>
+
+  <p>6. Labrador stone occurs west of Lindernæs, in the south, at Ekersund
+    on the west coast, below Stavanger, round the Galdhopiggen (the highest
+    point in Norway), and north-east of Fortun, in the Sogne fjord.</p>
+
+  <p>The whole of this surface bears record of the immense extent and effect
+    of the glacial period of Norway. The valleys show the glacial set as
+    distinctly as does the tide in large rivers, the greatest attrition
+    and scoriation being in the concaves going down. Huge bastions of
+    rock<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>
+    have been rounded and ground down by constant attrition, and
+    vast terraces of sand, at the end of each valley, are the result of
+    this attrition accumulating for ages. It would be very interesting
+    to analyze and find the component parts of these immense deposits.
+    Certain it is there is no <span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span>natural sandy soil above, and, as we have
+    before mentioned, when reindeer-hunting, we have found huge boulders
+    of thirty or forty feet at an elevation of 5,000 feet, with smaller
+    ones of a different formation resting on them. Now all this has been
+    brought about by the influence of the gulf stream: when the gulf stream
+    took this course the glacial period ceased in Norway. That epoch none
+    can tell. It will be sufficient to notice the result, which is this:
+    when the polar current from Spitzbergen runs down the west coast of
+    the Atlantic, and produces the great fogs off Newfoundland, the gulf
+    stream, driven up from the Gulf of Florida by the force of the great
+    caldron of the equator, strikes on to our west coast and the coast
+    of Norway, running up to the North Cape; in fact, the only timber
+    to be obtained there is the drift wood from the West Indies; and at
+    Hammerfest casks of palm oil have been washed up from Cape Lopez Point,
+    in Africa. In Iceland, too, as Professor Ericker Magnussen informs us,
+    the bridges are made of mahogany. Not that bridges are frequent in
+    that country; but those which they have are made from the logs washed
+    up there. This accounts for the variety of temperature which the two
+    boundaries of Norway&mdash;the gulf stream on the west, and Sweden on the
+    east&mdash;present. For instance, though Bergen and Christiania are in about
+    the same latitude, the average temperature at the former is 46° 8´ and
+    at the latter 41° 5´; the summer average is about the same; but in the
+    winter months Christiania is often 13° colder than Bergen. Hence there
+    may be skating at Christiania while there is none at all at Bergen,
+    where the average annual rainfall is 72 inches, which, by the way, is
+    lower than that in our English lakes.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a>See the
+    rocks of Steensund, on the west coast: these are conglomerate.</p></div>
+
+  <div class="center mt2"><span class="smcap">Mean Temperature.</span></div>
+
+  <table summary="Mean Temperature">
+    <tbody>
+      <tr>
+        <th>&nbsp;</th>
+        <th>Winter.</th>
+        <th>Spring.</th>
+        <th>Summer.</th>
+        <th>Autumn.</th>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td>Christiania</td>
+        <td>+ 25°</td>
+        <td>+ 38°</td>
+        <td>+ 60°</td>
+        <td>+ 42°</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td>Bergen</td>
+        <td>+ 36</td>
+        <td>+ 45</td>
+        <td>+ 58</td>
+        <td>+ 48</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td>Trondhjem</td>
+        <td>+ 24</td>
+        <td>+ 35</td>
+        <td>+ 61</td>
+        <td>+ 40</td>
+      </tr>
+      <tr>
+        <td>North Cape</td>
+        <td>+ 24</td>
+        <td>+ 30</td>
+        <td>+ 42</td>
+        <td>+ 32</td>
+      </tr>
+    </tbody>
+  </table>
+
+  <p>The mean temperature at North Cape is 32°, the greatest cold arising
+    from north-east winds. Thunder-storms occur in winter, while west winds
+    cause dense fogs.</p>
+
+  <p>At the conclusion of Forbes’s “Norway” will be found a most interesting
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span>map, with isothermal lines passing through those places which have
+    the same temperature in the months of January and July; and it is very
+    striking to notice that the July temperature of the north of Ireland
+    and Edinburgh is maintained through Norway as far as the Arctic Circle,
+    when <span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span>it begins to deflect to the eastward, where the gulf stream’s
+    influence ceases.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow72" id="i_208">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_208.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Stabur and Wooden Tankards.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Again, the waterfalls are a great feature of this country. Some one
+    has depicted Norway thus <img src="images/i_209a.png" class="iglyph-a" alt="" />,
+    and the Alps thus <img src="images/i_209b.png" class="iglyph-b" alt="" />.
+    There is much truth in this. The valleys running down to the fjords
+    produce immense precipices, down which rush the many waters of the
+    high plateaux of 3,000 or 4,000 feet; and in some parts these falls
+    are strengthened by the waters of the vast stretch of <i>sneebræden</i>,
+    or snow-fields, of which the Justedal and the Folgefond are the most
+    extensive.</p>
+
+  <p>The casual observer, looking at the map of Norway, would think it well
+    populated, but a few years ago its inhabitants numbered hardly more
+    than one-fourth those of London and its suburbs.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>
+    The names on the
+    map frequently represent mere stations, farms, <i>præstegaarden</i>, or
+    rectories, and villages are seldom seen. As in Scotland, the farmer
+    takes the name of his land. In fact, Norway and Scotland are very
+    closely allied to each other in many respects.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnote">
+    <p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a>Population
+    of Norway, 1,150,000.</p></div>
+
+  <p>From the Runic downwards, the wood-carving of Norway stands alone for
+    distinctive characteristics, and is still carried on in every variety
+    by means of the simple national tolle-knife, which is ready for
+    everything.</p>
+
+  <p>The lintels and carvings of the <i>staburs</i>, or store-houses, in
+    Thelemarken have been already shown, but the most interesting specimens
+    are found in churches, where the tortuous lines are full of originality
+    and power of design. Serpents are ever-present and ever-varying,
+    the museums being rich in specimens of this ecclesiastical class of
+    work. Wood, and birch especially, is used for every kind of domestic
+    utensil, and ornamentation is very generally introduced. Some of the
+    old horse collars are beautiful, and are sometimes painted; tankards
+    are richly carved; spoons profusely so; and on some occasions the
+    bridegroom, if he be very expert, prepares a double spoon for the bride
+    and himself, wherewith to eat their porridge simultaneously. Drinking
+    bowls, salt-boxes, <i>mangel stoks</i>, are all carved; and this art is much
+    encouraged by the long winter evenings.</p>
+
+  <p>The old silver of Norway is so large a subject that a series of
+    illustrations <span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span>would be necessary to do justice to the matter; but
+    its day is fast passing away. The peasants and fishermen have found
+    new outlets for their earnings, and the time has gone by when they
+    wondered what new thing they could have made in the precious metal;
+    in fact, electro-plate is now invading Gamle Norge. May the <i>bönder</i>
+    select the blessings of civilisation and eschew its evils! May their
+    home happiness and love be ever-increasing, and the kind welcome which
+    we have so often experienced never decrease in heartiness! For a time
+    farewell!</p>
+
+  <div class="mt2 mb10 center smcap">Farvel, Farvel!</div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter illow55" id="i_210">
+    <img class="w100" src="images/i_210.jpg" alt="" />
+    <div class="caption"><i>Costume of Lutheran Priest of Norway.</i></div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="center xsmall bt mt20">PRINTED BY VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD, LONDON.</div>
+
+  <div class="transnote">
+    <div class="large center mb2"><b>Transcriber’s Notes:</b></div>
+    <ul class="spaced">
+      <li>Blank pages have been removed.</li>
+      <li>Title page has been moved to start.</li>
+      <li>Redundant title and chapter heading pages have been removed.</li>
+      <li>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</li>
+      <li>Illustration listing as facing page 183 changed to actual location as frontispiece.</li>
+    </ul>
+  </div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of 'Gamle Norge': Rambles and Scrambles
+in Norway, by Robert Taylor Pritchett
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+</pre>
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+</body>
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+</html>
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