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diff --git a/64620-0.txt b/64620-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfc01c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/64620-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5927 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 64620 *** + + THE SPANISH SERIES + + GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA + + + + + THE SPANISH SERIES + + _EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT_ + + + GOYA + TOLEDO + MADRID + SEVILLE + MURILLO + CORDOVA + EL GRECO + VELAZQUEZ + THE PRADO + THE ESCORIAL + ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN + GRANADA AND ALHAMBRA + SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR + LEON, BURGOS AND SALAMANCA + VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA + ZAMORA, AVILA AND ZARAGOZA + + + + + GRANADA AND + THE ALHAMBRA + + A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE + ANCIENT CITY OF GRANADA + WITH A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT + OF THE MOORISH PALACE + BY ALBERT F. CALVERT + WITH 460 ILLUSTRATIONS + + + LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD + NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVII + + Printed by BALLANTYNE & CO. LIMITED + Tavistock Street, London + + + TO + H.I.M. THE EMPRESS EUGÉNIE + THIS SOUVENIR OF THAT FAIR GRANADAN HOME + FROM WHICH SHE CARRIED + THE CROWN OF SPANISH BEAUTY + TO GRACE THE THRONE OF FRANCE + IS DEDICATED + IN ACCORDANCE WITH HER MAJESTY’S + GRACIOUS PERMISSION + + + + +PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION + + +Although the admission may be construed by the censorious as betraying a +lack of becoming diffidence, I am tempted to believe that no apology +will be demanded for the publication of this volume by that section of +the reading public for which it has been chiefly compiled. My temerity +goes even further, and I anticipate with some confidence that visitors +to the Alhambra, and pilgrims to that famous Mecca of Moorish +workmanship, will recognise in this book an earnest attempt to supply a +long-felt want. When I paid my first visit to Granada some years ago, I +was surprised and disappointed to find that no such thing as an even +fairly adequate illustrated souvenir of this “city of the dawn” was to +be obtained. Many tomes, costly and valuable (not necessarily the same +thing), have been written to place on record the wonders of “the +glorious sanctuary of Spain,” but these are beyond the reach of the +general public. Many beautiful pictures have caught odd ecstasies of +this superb and perfectly harmonised palace of art, but these +impressions are not available to the ordinary tourist. + +What is wanted, as I imagine, is a concise history and description of +the Alhambra, illustrated with a series of pictures constituting a +tangible remembrancer of the delights of this Granadian paradise + + “Where glory rests ’tween laurels, + A torch to give thee light!” + +The Alhambra may be likened to an exquisite opera which can only be +appreciated to the full when one is under the spell of its magic +influence. But as the witchery of an inspired score can be recalled by +the sound of an air whistled in the street, so--it is my hope--the pale +ghost of this Moorish fairy-land may live again in the memories of +travellers through the medium of this pictorial epitome. + +I desire, however, to submit an explanation--or excuse--for the unusual +form in which this volume is issued. At the commencement of my work I +experienced no little difficulty in collecting the requisite +illustrations, for most of the obtainable photographs were ill-chosen +and but carelessly developed, and I was compelled to press my own +cameras into the service of my scheme. But when my designs became known, +I was inundated with offers of pictures of every description, until the +embarrassment of artistic treasures entirely upset the original purpose +of my book. Artists placed their studies at my disposal; collectors +begged me, with irresistible Spanish courtesy, to regard their galleries +as my own; and students directed my attention to little-known +publications on the subject. + +Don Mariano Contreras, Conservator of the Alhambra, the son of the +gifted Raphaël Contreras, who devoted thirty-seven years of his life to +the restoration of the Palace--gave me the benefit of his knowledge of +this unique treasure-house of art; and I have also laid under +contribution the beautiful plates of Owen Jones, who disposed of a Welsh +inheritance in order to produce his great work on the _Plans, +Elevations, Sections, and Details of the Alhambra_. Jones’s _Grammar of +Ornament_, which has been described as “beautiful enough to be the +horn-book of the Angels,” also contains the result of his researches in +the Alhambra, which occupied him for the greater part of eleven years. A +selection of these illustrations is here rescued from the obscurity of +public libraries and the inaccessible fastnesses of private collections. +The inclusion of John F. Lewis’s drawings, and the reproduction of a +series of pictures by James C. Murphy, who spent seven years in the +study of the artistic marvels of the Alhambra, I do not feel called upon +to defend. The photographs, several of which were placed at my disposal +by Don Rafaël Garzón, represent the buildings as they appear to-day; the +drawings were made before the Palace was damaged by the disastrous fire +of September, 1890. + +For the historical portions of the description contained in the +letterpress I have levied tribute on a variety of authors. _The History +of the Mohammedan Dynasties in Spain_, by the learned Spanish +Orientalist, Don Pascual de Gayángos; Raphaël Contreras’ _Étude +Descriptive des Monuments Arabes_; Richard Ford’s reverent +appreciations; Dr. R. Dozy’s history; Mr. Stanley Lane-Poole’s _The +Moors in Spain_; Washington Irving’s fascinating writings; and _The +Alhambra Album_, presented by Prince Dolgorouki in 1829, containing the +autographs, poems, and thoughts of succeeding generations of visitors to +Granada, these and many others have been drawn upon in the following +pages. + +But the multiplicity of my illustrations convinced me that if I adhered +to my idea of furnishing an amount of letterpress sufficient to “carry” +the blocks, I should only end in producing a book that would tax the +physical endurance of my readers by reason of its bulk, and exhaust +their patience with a tedious super-abundance of minute descriptive +pabulum. I resolved, therefore, to give pride of place to the pictorial +side of the volume; to abandon the traditions regulating the proportions +of prose to pictures; and make my appeal to the public by the beauty and +variety of the illustrations I have collected, and the immensity of +elaborate letterpress which I have not written. + +A. F. C. + +“ROYSTON,” + + HAMPSTEAD, N.W., 1904. + + + + +PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION + + +The compilation of a book of this kind reveals in the author a +refreshing optimism which does not always survive the ordeal of +publication, and it is, perhaps, out of sympathy with the misgivings +that assail him as he approaches the bar of public and critical opinion, +that convention cedes to him the privilege of making some apology for +the faith that is in him. In his preface he is permitted to explain +himself, and this _apologia_ or justification, call it which you will, +stands as the last word in his own defence. But the demand for a further +edition is the outcome of an amiable conspiracy on the part of the +public, and it is not required of the author to explain, justify, or +excuse an issue for which he is not directly responsible. Any revision +or amplification, however, which is to be found in a second impression, +may be briefly referred to, and at the same time tradition allows him to +express the feelings of gratitude and gratification that the occasion +inspires. + +It has been my ambition to acknowledge the favour with which this book +has been received, by having the present edition produced with the +greatest care on special paper, and by the addition of a number of new +illustrations, including some half-tone and coloured plates reproduced +from the _Monumentos Arquitectónicos de España_ and other sources, which +I have acquired since it was first produced. It will be seen that +several of the coloured pictures in this book illustrate designs which +are common to the Arabian ornamentation to be found in Cordova and +Seville, and, as being representative of the Moresco work of the period, +they also appear in the companion volume on _Moorish Remains in Spain_, +but it may be stated that the whole of the plates reproduced here are +from photographs and drawings secured or specially made to illustrate +_The Alhambra_. In its pictorial appeal it has been my ambition to make +this edition as worthy of its subject as means and ability permit, and I +offer this assurance as an earnest of my sincere appreciation of the +generous manner in which the Press and public rewarded my previous +effort. + +A. F. C. + + + + +PREFACE TO NEW EDITION + + +The generous appreciation with which my larger book on the Alhambra was +received by both the Press and the public in Spain and America, as well +as in this country, encourages me to hope that the present volume will +prove a popular addition to this Spanish Series. Three years ago, when I +published _The Alhambra_ to supply what my own experience taught me to +be a real want, the scale and quality of the illustrations made it +impossible to issue the work at a popular price. I am now enabled to +present an inexpensive and, I trust, adequate souvenir of the +fascinating city of Granada and its Red Palace. The text is no mere +reprint of the matter which appeared in my former work, but embodies the +results of a more critical, though not less appreciative, survey of the +last monuments of the Spanish Moor. Bearing in mind, too, that the +illustrations, being on a reduced scale, called for fuller explanation, +I have endeavoured to condense as much detail and descriptive matter +into the letterpress as the limits I had laid down for myself admitted. +Those limits were still further encroached upon by the additional wealth +of illustration which resulted from the decision to include the city of +Granada in a work which, in previous issues, had been devoted entirely +to the palace of the Alhambra, and the new pictorial matter so acquired +threatened to annex all the space allotted for the text. But little as I +liked the idea of further condensing the letterpress, I was even less +inclined to neglect the opportunity of enhancing the pictorial value of +the volume. In dealing with the Moorish art of Spain, I have always +recognised that the popular want is for pictures rather than the printed +word, and I venture to hope that the present volume, which surpasses its +costlier predecessors in the number of the plates reproduced, will +constitute a serviceable if not exhaustive guide to the beautiful +Moorish capital, and an artistic remembrancer of its fascinating +monuments. + +I have to acknowledge my obligations to Mr. E. B. d’Auvergne for his +kind and valuable assistance in the compilation of the text, and for +permission to reproduce many of the additional photographs I am indebted +to the courtesy of Don Senan y Gonzalez, of Herr Ernst Wasmuth of +Berlin, publisher of Uhde’s _Baudenkmaeler in Spanien und Portugal_, and +of Herr Eugen Twietmeyer of Leipzig, publisher of Junghandel’s _Die +Baukunst Spaniens_. + +As I have remarked in the preface to the volume on Cordova, it may be +thought that in the present work I have given an excess of detail of +Arabian decoration and ornament, but it has been my aim to provide the +last word on Moorish art--so far at least as the pictorial +representation of it is concerned--wherever I have dealt with it in +Spain. To the general reader these reproductions of tracery and +elaborate detail may seem superfluous, but they will, I trust, lend to +the book an additional interest in the eyes of students and artists, for +whose delectation they are included here. + +A. F. C. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +THE CITY OF THE MOOR 1 + +THE ALHAMBRA 25 + +THE GENERALIFE 61 + +CATHOLIC GRANADA 65 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + TITLE PLATE + +View of Granada, showing the Alhambra and the Sierra +Nevada 1 + +General View of the Alhambra 2 + +View of the Alhambra from the Sacromonte Road 3 + +The Alhambra from the Moor’s Seat--La Silla del Moro 4 + +General View of the Alhambra from San Nicolás 5 + +View of the Gate of Elvira 6 + +A View of the Alhambra from the Albaicin (_Sketch_) 7 + +View of the Cathedral and the Alhambra from San +Gerónimo 8 + +View of the Sierra Nevada from the Carrera de las +Angustias 9 + +View of the Royal Gate 10 + +View from the Tower in the Alhambra 11 + +La Plaza Nueva 12 + +Monument to Columbus in the Paseo del Salon; the +Sierra Nevada in the Distance 13 + +The Street of the Catholic Sovereigns 14 + +Arab Silk Market 15 + +La Casa de los Tiros 16 + +Church of Santa Ana 17 + +Limoges Enamel Triptych which belonged to the Gran +Capitán. (Provincial Museum, Granada) 18 + +Altar in the Church of San Gerónimo 19 + +House in the Calle de Darro. The Palacio de Justicia 20 + +The House of Castril 21 + +Typical Gypsies and their Quarters 22 + +Gypsies in Front of their Dwellings 23 + +Gypsy-dwellings in the Sacromonte 24 + +General View of the Gypsy Quarters 25 + +Interior of a Gypsy’s Cave 26 + +Group of Gypsies 27 + +A Gypsy Family 28 + +Gypsies bivouacking 29 + +Gypsies 30 + +Gypsies clipping a Mule 31 + +Gypsies 32 + +Gypsies 33 + +Gypsy Dance 34 + +Interior of the Sacristy of the Cartuja 35 + +Interior of Cartuja: The Sacristy 36 + +Interior of the Cartuja Church 37 + +Saint Bruno, by Alonso Cano, at the Carthusian Monastery +of Granada 38 + +Exterior of the Royal Chapel 39 + +The Gate of Pardon and the Exterior of the Cathedral 40 + +Façade of the Cathedral 41 + +Exterior Gate of the Royal Chapel 42 + +Detail in the Royal Chapel 43 + +Ancient Gothic Entrance to the Royal Chapel 44 + +General Exterior View of the Royal Chapel, Upper +Part 45 + +General Exterior View of the Royal Chapel 46 + +Façade of the Cathedral. Exterior of the Royal Chapel 47 + +General View of the Interior of the Cathedral 48 + +The Cathedral. General View of the Interior 49 + +The Cathedral. View of the Principal Nave 50 + +The High Altar in the Cathedral 51 + +Altar-piece in the Royal Chapel, by F. de Borgoña 52 + +The Cathedral. Boabdil giving up the Keys of Granada +to the Catholic Sovereigns. Fragment of the Altar-piece +in the Royal Chapel 53 + +The Inner Choir of the Cathedral 54 + +The Cathedral. Tombs of the Catholic Sovereigns in +the Royal Chapel 55 + +View of the Royal Chapel and Tombs of the Catholic +Sovereigns, by P. Gonzalvo 56 + +Royal Chapel. Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella 57 + +Vault of the Catholic Sovereigns at Granada 58 + +Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, Doña Juana and +Philip the Handsome 59 + +Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, Doña Juana and +Philip the Handsome 60 + +Sceptre, Crown, Sword, Mass-book, and Coffer of the +Catholic Sovereigns 61 + +Relics of the Catholic Sovereigns 62 + +Royal Chapel: Statue of Queen Isabella the Catholic 63 + +Statue of Isabella the Catholic 64 + +Chapel of San Miguel in the Cathedral, Marble Sculpture 65 + +Plan of the Alhambra Palace at Granada 66 + +General Plan of the Alhambra 67 + +General View of the Alhambra from San Nicolás 68 + +The Red Towers from the Ramparts 69 + +View of the Alhambra from the Sacromonte 70 + +General View of the Alhambra and Algibillo Promenade 71 + +View of the Alhambra from the Cuesta del Chapiz 72 + +The Red Towers 73 + +General View of the Alhambra 74 + +The Tower of the Peaks 75 + +The Infantas’ Tower and Captive’s Tower 76 + +View of the Watch Tower and Granada 77 + +View of the Ramparts and the Watch Tower 78 + +The Aqueduct Tower and the Aqueduct 79 + +The Gate of Justice. Detail of a Door in the Court +of the Myrtles 80 + +The Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada 81 + +Granada, from the Homage Tower 82 + +“The Queen’s Dressing-room,” at the Summit of the +Mihrab Tower, with Distant View of the Generalife 83 + +The Gate of Justice, erected by Yúsuf I. 84 + +The Tower of the Peaks 85 + +The Captive’s Tower 86 + +Exterior of the Mosque, Private Property 87 + +Tower of the Aqueduct 88 + +Ascent to the Alhambra by the Cuesta del Rey Chico--Lesser +King Hill 89 + +The Ladies’ Tower 90 + +Part of the Alhambra, Exterior 91 + +The Homage Tower. Ancient Arab Ruins in the +Alcazába 92 + +Gate of Justice, the Alhambra 93 + +Gate of Justice (_Sketch_) 94 + +The Gate of Justice 95 + +Plan, Height, and Details of the Gate of the Law, commonly +called of Justice 96 + +Elevation of the Ancient Gate of Justice 97 + +Portal commonly called the Wine Gate 98 + +Porch of the Gate of Judgment 99 + +Elevation of the Wine Gate 100 + +Transverse Section of Part of the Alhambra 101 + +Section showing Heights of the Alhambra 102, 103 + +Promenades at the Entrance to the Alhambra 104 + +The Hall of Justice and Court of the Lions 105 + +Hall of Justice. Left Side 106 + +Hall of Justice, showing Fountain of Court of the Lions 107 + +Section of the Hall of Justice (looking East) 108 + +Section of the Hall of Justice (looking towards the +Court of the Lions) 109 + +Vertical Section of the Hall of Justice 110 + +Details of the Hall of Justice 111 + +Plan and Window of the Hall of Justice 112 + +Painting on the Ceiling of the Hall of Justice. No. 1 113 + +Painting on the Ceiling of the Hall of Justice. No. 3 114 + +Part of Picture in the Hall of Justice--The Moor’s +Return from Hunting 115 + +Hall of Justice--The Death of the Lion at the Hands of +a Christian Knight 116 + +Part of Picture in the Hall of Justice representing a +Christian Knight rescuing a Maiden from a wicked +Magician, or Wild-Man-o’-the-Woods 117 + +Part of Picture in Hall of Justice--Moorish Huntsman +slaying the Wild Boar 118 + +Hall of Justice--Three Figures from the Picture of the +Moorish Tribunal 119 + +The Mosque and Generalife 120 + +Court of the Mosque 121 + +Façade of the Mosque 122 + +Interior of the Mosque in the Alhambra 123 + +Interior of the Mosque 124 + +Elevation of the Portico adjacent to the Mosque 125 + +Detail of the Entrance Door of the Mosque 126 + +An Arched Window of the Mosque 127 + +An Arched Window of the Mosque 128 + +The Koran Recess in the Mosque, the Scene of Yusuf’s +Assassination 129 + +The Mosque from Koran Recess 130 + +Details of Ornament of Koran Recess near the Entrance +Door of the Mosque 131 + +Cornice and Window in the Façade of the Mosque 132 + +Vertical Section of the Mosque 133 + +Arab Lamp in Mosque 134 + +Details of the Front of the Mosque of the Harem 135 + +Details of Ornament in the Court of the Mosque 136 + +Details in the Court of the Mosque, Eastern Façade 137 + +Ornament in Panels, Court of the Mosque 138 + +Window in the Hall of Ambassadors 139 + +Entrance to the Hall of Ambassadors 140 + +Hall of Ambassadors 141 + +Section and Elevation of the Interior of the Hall of +Ambassadors 142 + +Encaustic-tile Work of the Hall of Ambassadors 143 + +Ornament in Panels, Hall of Ambassadors 144 + +Inscriptions in the Hall of Ambassadors 145 + +Kufic Inscriptions, Hall of Ambassadors 146 + +“Wa la Ghálib ila Alá”--There is no Conqueror but +God!--The famous Motto of Mohammed I. and his +Successors. An Example from the Hall of Ambassadors 147 + +The Court of the Lions from the Templete Pomiente 148 + +Entrance to the Court of the Lions through the Pomiente +Corner 149 + +North Gallery and Façade of the Hall of the Abencerrages 150 + +The Court of the Lions from the Pomiente Corner 151 + +View in the Court of the Lions 152 + +View in the Court of the Lions from the Hall of Justice 153 + +The Court of the Lions 154 + +General View of the Court of the Lions 155 + +Court of the Lions 156 + +North Gallery in the Court of the Lions 157 + +Section, Court of the Lions 158 + +Pavilion in the Court of the Lions 159 + +Fountain and East Temple in the Court of the Lions 160 + +Hall of Justice and Court of the Lions 161 + +Angle in the Hall of Justice 162 + +Hall of Justice 163 + +Ceiling of the Hall of Justice 164 + +The Mosque, and View of the Generalife 165 + +Exterior of a Window in the Mosque 166 + +The Mosque, and View of the Generalife 167 + +Interior of the Mosque 168 + +Court of the Mosque, West Façade 169 + +Interior of the Mosque, converted into a Roman Catholic +Church 170 + +Interior of the Mosque, converted into a Roman Catholic +Church 171 + +Jalousies in the Court of the Mosque 172 + +Entrance to the Hall of Ambassadors 173 + +Balcony in the Hall of Ambassadors 174 + +Detail of the Hall of the Arched Windows 175 + +Detail in the Hall of the Abencerrages 176 + +The Court of the Lions 177 + +General View of the Court of the Lions 178 + +The Fountain and West Temple of the Court of the Lions 179 + +Elevation of the Fountain of the Court of the Lions 180 + +The Fountain of the Court of the Lions, with Details +of the Ornament 181 + +Plan of the Basin of the Fountain in the Court of the +Lions 182 + +Section of the Pavilion in the Court of the Lions 183 + +Section of the Hall of the Two Sisters, and Section of +Part of the Court of the Lions 184, 185 + +Capital in the Court of the Lions, with a Scale of One +Metre 186 + +Details of the Centre Arcade of the Court of the Lions 187 + +Frieze over Columns, Court of the Lions 188 + +Detail of the Central Arch in the Court of the Lions 189 + +The First Six Verses of the Inscription around the Basin +of the Fountain of the Court of the Lions 190 + +Entablature in the Court of the Lions 191 + +Cupola of the Pavilion in the Court of the Lions 192 + +Entrance to the Court of the Lions. Little Temple, the +Court of the Lions 193 + +The Court of the Lions 194 + +The Little Temple, and the Fountain, the Court of the +Lions 195 + +The Court of the Lions 196 + +The Court of the Lions, West Angle 197 + +Morocco Embassy, December 1885 198 + +The Court of the Lions from the West Temple 199 + +The Court of the Lions from the West Temple 200 + +West Gallery in the Court of the Lions 201 + +The Court of the Lions, Façade of the Hall of the Two +Sisters 202 + +The Court of the Lions, Left-hand Angle 203 + +The Court of the Lions, Façade of the Hall of Two +Sisters 204 + +The Court of the Lions from the Entrance 205 + +Detail of the Entrance to the Court of the Lions 206 + +Detail in the Court of the Lions 207 + +Mosaics, North and South Sides, the Court of the Lions 208 + +Hall of the Abencerrages 209 + +Hall of the Abencerrages 210 + +Hall of the Abencerrages 211 + +Hall of the Abencerrages 212 + +Wooden Doors, Hall of the Abencerrages 213 + +Gallery in the Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the +Myrtles 214 + +Court of the Myrtles; or, of the Fish-pond. Façade +of the Hall of Ambassadors 215 + +Court of the Myrtles; or, of the Fish-pond 216 + +General View of the Court of the Myrtles; or, of the +Fish-pond 217 + +North Side of the Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the +Myrtles 218 + +Entrance to the Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the +Myrtles 219 + +Gallery in the Court of the Myrtles; or, of the Fish-pond 220 + +General View of the Court of the Myrtles and Comares +Tower 221 + +Court of the Myrtles, East Façade 222 + +Detail in the Court of the Myrtles 223 + +Court of the Myrtles, East Façade 224 + +Exterior of the Gallery in the Court of the Fish-pond; +or, of the Myrtles 225 + +The Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the Myrtles 226 + +Ornament in the Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the +Myrtles 227 + +Court of the Myrtles; or, of the Fish-pond, formed by +Yúsuf I. 228 + +The Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the Myrtles. Gallery +in the Court of the Fish-pond; or, of the Myrtles 229 + +The Hall of the Baths 230 + +The Sultan’s Bath 231 + +The Sultana’s Bath 232 + +The Baths, Hall of Repose 233 + +Chamber of Repose 234 + +Section of the Hall of the Baths 235 + +Longitudinal Section through the Baths 236 + +Ground Plan of the Baths in the Alhambra 237 + +Ceiling of the Hall of the Baths 238 + +Plan and Section of the great Cistern in the Alhambra 239 + +A Section of the Baths in the Alhambra 240 + +Chamber of Repose. Sultan’s Bath constructed by +Yúsuf I. 241 + +Interior of the Infantas’ Tower 242 + +Sections of the Infantas’ Tower 243 + +Interior of the Tower of the Infantas, Upper Part 244 + +Balcony of the “Captive” (Isabel de Solis), overlooking +the Vega, or Plain, of Granada 245 + +Alcove of the “Captive” (Isabel de Solis) 246 + +Interior of the Tower of the “Captive” (Isabel de +Solis) 247 + +The “Captive’s” Tower from the Entrance 248 + +Interior of the Mosque. Room in the “Captive’s” +Tower 249 + +Hall of Justice. Baths, the Chamber of Repose 250 + +Balcony of the Favourite, “Lindaraja” 251 + +Alcove in the “Lindaraja” Apartments 252 + +Garden of “Lindaraja,” and the Apartments traditionally +said to have been occupied by “Lindaraja,” +a favourite Sultana 253 + +Detail, Interior of the Balcony of “Lindaraja” 254 + +Detail, Lower Part of the Balcony of “Lindaraja” 255 + +Detail of the Central Part of the Balcony of “Lindaraja” 256 + +The Queen’s Boudoir and Distant View of the Generalife 257 + +The Queen’s Boudoir and View of the Generalife 258 + +The Queen’s Boudoir and old Albaicin Quarter 259 + +The Queen’s Boudoir and Defile of the Darro 260 + +“Lindaraja’s” Garden and the Apartments in which +Washington Irving stayed 261 + +Angle of the Balcony of “Lindaraja” 262 + +Balcony of the favourite “Lindaraja” 263 + +Interior of the Tower of the Captive, Isabel de Solis 264 + +Exterior of the Captive’s Tower 265 + +The Tower of the Captive, Isabel de Solis 266 + +Interior of the Infantas’ Tower, Upper Part 267 + +Interior of the Infantas’ Tower 268 + +Detail of the Upper Part of the Balcony of “Lindaraja” 269 + +Hall of the Two Sisters 270 + +Entrance to the Hall of the Two Sisters 271 + +Interior of the Hall of the Two Sisters 272 + +Hall of the Two Sisters 273 + +Hall of the Two Sisters 274 + +Temple and Façade of the Hall of the Two Sisters 275 + +View in the Hall of the Two Sisters 276 + +Hall of the Two Sisters from the Entrance Door, built +by Yúsuf I. 277 + +Upper Balcony of the Hall of the Two Sisters 278 + +Hall of the Two Sisters from the Entrance Door 279 + +Ceiling of the Hall of the Two Sisters 280 + +Detail of the Upper Story, Hall of the Two Sisters 281 + +Detail of the Lateral Windows of the Hall of the Two +Sisters 282 + +Detail in the Hall of the Two Sisters 283 + +Panel, Ornament, and Inscriptions in the Hall of the +Two Sisters 284 + +Inscription in the Hall of the Two Sisters 285 + +Frieze in the Hall of the Two Sisters 286 + +Panel on Jambs of Doorways, Hall of the Two Sisters 287 + +Details of the Glazed Tiles in the Dado of the Hall +of the Two Sisters 288 + +Band round Panels in Windows, Hall of the Two Sisters 289 + +Mosaic in Dado of Recess. Mosaic in Dado of the +Entrance to the Hall of the Two Sisters 290 + +Mosaic in Dado of Hall of Ambassadors. Mosaic in +Dado of the Hall of the Two Sisters 291 + +Wine Gate. West Façade 292 + +Detail of the only ancient “Jalousie” remaining in +the Alhambra 293 + +El Jarro. Arab Vase now in the Museum of the Palace 294 + +El Jarro. The Arabian Vase and Niche in which it +formerly stood, Hall of the Two Sisters 295 + +An Arab Vase of the Fourteenth Century in the Niche +wherein it stood until the Year 1837 296 + +Sword of the last Moorish King of Granada, commonly +called “The Sword of Boabdil” 297 + +The Surrender of Granada by Boabdil to Ferdinand +and Isabella, January 2, 1492 298 + +Gold Coin (obverse and reverse) of Mohammed I., the +Founder of the Alhambra, who reigned 1232-1272 +A.D. 299 + +Details and Inscriptions, and Arabian Capitals 300 + +The Gothic Inscription set up in the Alhambra by the +Count of Tendilla, to commemorate the Surrender +of the Fortress in 1492 301 + +Mosaic Pavement in the Queen’s Dressing-room (Tocador +de la Reyna.) Mosaic, from a Fragment in +the Alhambra 302 + +The House of Carbon 303 + +The ancient Granary Market and House of Carbon 304 + +Elevation of the Casa del Carbon, or House of +Carbon, once known as the House of the Weathercock 305 + +Courtyard of a Moorish House in the Albaicin 306 + +Interior of an Arab House in the Albaicin 307 + +The Proclamation of Boabdil. By Plácido Frances +(National Exhibition of Beaux Arts, 1884) 308 + +The Author in the Alhambra 309 + +Cornices, Capitals, and Columns in the Alhambra 310 + +Miscellaneous Ornament in the Alhambra 311 + +The Fable of Jupiter and Leda in the Alhambra 312 + +Bas-relief, now in the Museum of the Alhambra 313 + +Arabian Sword 314 + +Capitals from the Courts and Halls of the Alhambra 315 + +Encaustic-tile Work in the Royal Room of Santo +Domingo 316 + +Various Mosaics from the Alhambra 317 + +Inscriptions in the Alhambra 318 + +Plan of the Palace of Charles V. and of the Subterranean +Vaults of the Alhambra 319 + +General View of the Alhambra from the Homage Tower 320 + +Ancient Cistern. Early Fourteenth Century 321 + +The Alhambra (_Specially drawn for the Spanish +Series_) 322 + +Part of Exterior of the Palace of Charles V. 323 + +Elevation of the Palace of Charles V. 324 + +Section of the Palace of Charles V. 325 + +Fountain of the Emperor Charles V. 326 + +View of the Alhambra from the Homage Tower 327 + +Interior of the Palace of Charles V. 328 + +Doorway of the Palace of Charles V. 329 + +Bas-relief in the Palace of Charles V. 330 + +Porch of the Palace of Charles V. from the West 331 + +Roman Court, Palace of Charles V. 332 + +Ground Plan of the Generalife at Granada 333 + +The Generalife 334 + +The Principal Court of the Generalife 335 + +The Court of the Fish-pond in the Generalife 336 + +Promenades and Gardens of the Generalife 337 + +The Generalife 338 + +Front View of the Portico of the Generalife 339 + +Transverse Section of the Royal Villa of the Generalife 340 + +Gallery in the Generalife 341 + +The Generalife. Gallery in the Acequia Court 342 + +The Generalife. Entrance to the Portrait Gallery 343 + +Garden of the Generalife 344 + +Elevation of the Portico of the Generalife 345 + +The Acequia Court in the Generalife 346 + +A Corner of the Acequia Court in the Generalife 347 + +Cypress Court. A Corner in the Acequia Court 348 + +The Cypress of the Sultana in the Generalife 349 + +A Ceiling in the Generalife 350 + +The Generalife. The Acequia Court from the Main +Entrance 351 + +The Generalife. The Acequia Court from the Interior 352 + +Exterior View of the Generalife 353 + +Entrance to the Generalife 354 + +The Generalife. Court of the Sultana’s Cypress 355 + +The Generalife. The Acequia Court from the Interior 356 + +South Façade of the Palace of Charles V. 357 + +Bas-relief in the Palace of Charles V. 358 + +Bas-relief in the Palace of Charles V. 359 + +Gate of the Granadas 360 + +Promenades and Hotels of the Alhambra 361 + +The Gate of Justice and Fountain of Charles V. 362 + +Environs of the Alhambra. Fountain of Charles V. 363 + +Gate of Justice. Principal Entrance to the Alhambra 364 + +Gate of Justice 365 + +Wine Gate. East Façade 366 + +Environs of the Alhambra. Tower of the Peaks 367 + +Tower of the Peaks 368 + +General View of the Alhambra from the Silla del +Moro 369 + +General View of the Alhambra from the Gypsy +Quarters 370 + +General View of the Alhambra from the Generalife 371 + +View of Granada and the Alhambra from the Sacromonte 372 + +General View of the Alhambra from San Nicolas 373 + +The Watch Tower, the Cathedral, and Granada 374 + +Villas on the Banks of the River Darro 375 + +A View of the Alhambra 376 + +Villas on the Banks of the River Darro 377 + +The Watch Tower and Cathedral 378 + +The Red Tower 379 + +The Homage Tower and Gypsy Quarters: exterior of +their Caves 380 + +Carrera del Rio Darro 381 + +The Gate of Elvira. The old Entrance to the Fortifications 382 + +Washing Place in the Puerta del Sol 383 + +Courtyard of an Arab House 384 + +A Moorish Archway 385 + +Interior of an old House in the Calle del Horno de Oro 386 + +Interior of an old House in the Albaicin 387 + +The Cathedral and General View 388 + +General View of the Cathedral 389 + +General View of the Exterior of the Cathedral 390 + +Entrance to the Royal Chapel 391 + +Exterior of the Royal Chapel of the Catholic Sovereigns 392 + +Detail of the Exterior of the Royal Chapel 393 + +Exterior of the Royal Chapel 394 + +Exterior of the Cathedral 395 + +Exterior of the Royal Chapel 396 + +Exterior of the Cathedral. The Gate of Pardon 397 + +Gothic Pinnacle on the Royal Chapel 398 + +The Cathedral. View from the Choir 399 + +The Cathedral. General View of the Chancel and +High Altar 400 + +Bas-relief in the Altar-piece of the Royal Chapel 401 + +General View of the Chancel in the Cathedral 402 + +The Royal Chapel. Sepulchre of the Catholic Sovereigns 403 + +The Royal Chapel. Detail of the Sepulchre of the +Catholic Sovereigns 404 + +The Royal Chapel. Sculpture of King Ferdinand the +Catholic 405 + +Sepulchre of Ferdinand 406 + +Sepulchre of Isabella the Catholic 407 + +Portal of the Church of San Juan de Dios 408 + +Sepulchre of Alonso Caño in San Gerónimo 409 + +Head of John the Baptist 410 + +Head of John the Baptist 411 + +Head of John the Baptist 412 + +Exterior of the Cartuja Monastery 413 + +Sacristy in the Cartuja, Left Side 414 + +Sacristy in the Cartuja, Right Side 415 + +Cartuja. Sancta Sanctorum 416 + +Cartuja. Detail of the Cupboards in the Sacristy 417 + +Altars in the Cartuja. Pictures by Sanchez y Cotán, +a Monk of the Order 418 + +Cartuja. The Immaculate Conception. By Murillo 419 + +Cartuja. The Virgin of the Rosary. By Murillo 420 + +Cartuja. St. Joseph and the Child. Sculpture by +Alonso Caño 421 + +Cartuja. St. Mary Magdalene. Sculpture by Alonso +Caño 422 + +Cartuja. Horsemen hanging Martyrs. By Sanchez +Cotán 423 + +Cartuja. The Baptism of Our Lord. By Sanchez +Cotán 424 + +Cartuja. The Holy Family. By Sanchez Cotán 425 + +The Crucifixion of Our Lord. By Morales 426 + +The Conception of Our Lady. By Morales 427 + +The Gypsy Quarters. Exterior of the Caves 428 + +The Gypsy Quarters. An “At Home” 429 + +Gypsy Dance in their Quarters 430 + +Gypsy Types at the Doors of their Caves 431 + +Gypsy Dance in their Quarters 432 + +Gypsy Dancers and their Captain, J. Amaya 433 + +Bridge of the Genil 434 + +General View 435 + +General View of the old Albaicin 436 + +General View from the Watch Tower 437 + +Old Arab Palace, now the Property of a Spanish Nobleman 438 + +The old Town Hall 439 + +The Royal Gate and Street of the Catholic Sovereigns 440 + +Monument to Columbus in the Paseo del Salon 441 + +The Raw Silk Market 442 + +The Raw Silk Market. Ancient Arab Silk Market 443 + +Exterior of an old House, Cuesta del Pescado 444 + +The Court of Justice 445 + +Carrera del Darro 446 + +Market and Gypsy Fair in the Triunfo 447 + +Calle de San Anton 448 + +Antequeruela Quarter, Sierra Nevada, and the “Last +Sigh of the Moor” 449 + +Carrera de Genil and View of the Sierra Nevada 450 + +Plaza de Mariana Pineda, Arab House, and View of the +Sierra Nevada 451 + +General View of the Alhambra and of the Sierra Nevada +from St. Michael 452 + +Huétor High Road and View of the Sierra Nevada 453 + +Villas on the Borders of the River Darro 454 + +Defile of the Darro 455 + +The Green Bridge and View of the Sierra Nevada 456 + +View of the Sierra Nevada 457 + +General View of the Sierra Nevada and the River Genil 458 + +Granada. (_Specially drawn for the Spanish Series_) 459 + +Arms of Granada 460 + +Plan of Granada _page_ 89 + + + + +GRANADA + +THE CITY OF THE MOOR + + +Granada is the creation of the Moors. Its history is all of them--the +record of their glory and their fall. The Pomegranate, as its conqueror +styled it, ripened only in the warm sunshine of Islam, and withered with +its decline. Under the Christian, it fell from the rank of a splendid +capital to a poor provincial town. Now it subsists merely as a great +monument to a vanished race and a dead civilisation. + +With Granada before it became the centre of an independent kingdom, we +need concern ourselves but little. Its real interest dates from the +establishment of the Nasrite dynasty in the first half of the thirteenth +century. It was the time when the great Almohade Empire was breaking up. +Probably all Andalusia would have shared the fate of Cordova and +Seville, and the conquests of the Catholic kings been anticipated by two +centuries, had not a young man of Arjona, Ibn Al Ahmar by name, +determined to fashion for himself a kingdom out of the fragments of +empire. With an ever-increasing following, he seized upon Jaen in 1232, +and obtained possession of Granada itself in 1237. City after city +opened its gates to him, including Malaga and Almeria, and in 1241 he +was recognised as Lord and Sultan of all the territory between the +Sierra Morena and the Pillars of Hercules, from Ronda to Baza. + +A great man, in every sense, was this founder of the Nasrite dynasty. +His presence was fine and commanding, his manner bland and amiable, his +courage worthy of the heroic age. For all his valour and prowess on the +battlefield, no monarch prized peace more highly. He proved himself a +true national hero and the father of his people. He fostered industry +and agriculture, was a patron, like all his race, of arts and letters, +and encouraged immigration by every means in his power. A far-sighted +statesman, he perceived that a state so limited in area as his own could +only hope to exist by virtue of an unusual density of population, and he +offered every inducement to Muslims from the provinces conquered by the +Christians to settle within his dominions. Granada was the last hope of +Islam in Europe, and he resorted to all possible means to safeguard it. +He concluded alliances with the rulers of Morocco, Tlemsen, and Tunis, +and even of distant Baghdad. Above all, he neglected no means of +humouring and conciliating the irresistible Castilian. He negotiated an +alliance with Fernando III., binding himself to attend the Cortes (a +curious stipulation for a Mohammedan) and to attend the king in his wars +with 1500 lances. This latter part of the bargain he was speedily called +upon to fulfil, and against his own co-religionists of Seville. It +seemed an unnatural warfare, but, to palliate the iniquity, let it be +said that Ibn Al Ahmar probably looked upon the Almohade citizens of +Ishbiliah as heretics. At all events, whether his conscience approved +his action or not, he contributed in no small measure to Fernando’s +success, and was hailed enthusiastically as a conqueror upon his return +to Granada. That the assistance he rendered was not looked upon as +altogether voluntary by the people of Seville is shown by the fact that +thousands of them migrated to his dominions and settled there. + +Ibn Al Ahmar dreaded the might of Castile. The only hope for the +Mohammedans of Spain lay, he knew, in rest and consolidation. Careful +not to give offence to his dreaded neighbour, he courteously received +the revolted and exiled Infante Don Enrique when he sought refuge at +Granada, but sent him on to Tunis with letters recommending him to the +Sultan of that country. All his diplomacy, however, could not avert a +war with Alfonso, and to add to his troubles, the Walis of Guadix, +Malaga, and Gomares revolted against his authority. But an insurrection +soon after broke out in Castile, and Alfonso was compelled to leave the +Walis to fight their own battles. Ibn Al Ahmar, an old man of eighty +years, wearily girded on his armour for another of the campaigns he had +learned to hate. But his time for rest had come at last. A few miles +beyond the gates of his capital, his charger threw him, as he rode at +the head of his army. He breathed his last at sundown, by the roadside, +surrounded by his weeping warriors. It was a dark night for Granada. + +Al Ahmar’s son, under the style of Mohammed II., succeeded him at the +age of thirty-eight years, on January 21, 1273. Arabic historians have +lavished their encomiums upon him, as indeed upon most of his dynasty. +He is described as a warrior and a statesman, as a man of letters and a +poet of considerable ability. During his reign of twenty-nine years, he +was almost continuously at war. Soon after his accession he crushed the +rebel Walis at Antequera, and then paid a visit to Alfonso X. at +Seville, with a view to detaching the Castilian king from his alliance +with the defeated insurgents. In this he was successful. Queen Violante, +however, at the conclusion of his visit, asked of him a boon, which, +according to the custom of the times, as a true knight, he was bound to +grant. He then discovered, too late, that he had been tricked into +granting a year’s truce to the Walis. Smouldering with rage, he returned +to Granada and spent the year in maturing plans for the complete +overthrow of his enemies. This he effected with the aid of the Sultan +Yusuf of Morocco, whose army of 100,000 men landed at Tarifa in 1275. +The Africans, as on previous occasions in Moorish history, proved +dangerous allies. Mohammed found himself embroiled in a long and +absolutely unprofitable war with Castile, and had the mortification of +seeing the Africans possess themselves of Algeciras, Tarifa, and Malaga. +He recovered possession of the latter town by bribing the governor to +exchange it for the town of Salobreña, to be held as a personal +acquisition; and rid himself at last of the troublesome Africans by +means of an alliance with Sancho of Castile. But in 1302 we find him +again at war with the Christians, fighting against whom he died. + +Mohammed III. was the worthy son of his father, and is specially +commended for his indefatigable energy. He took a short way with +traitors, even for those rough times. Ibn Nasr, the governor of Guadix, +having been removed from his office by the Sultan, exerted himself to +form a faction in his favour. Mohammed III., hearing of this, summoned +him to court, and had him slain there and then in his presence. A more +honourable exploit was his conquest of the town of Ceuta, opposite +Gibraltar, in the year 1306. With the rich spoils of the foray, he built +a magnificent mosque at Granada, resplendent with gold and silver, +jasper and marble. His success perhaps excited the jealousy of the +Catholic powers. Attacked on either side by the Kings of Castile and +Aragon, he was forced to conclude a humiliating peace. On his return to +his capital he was seized in the Alhambra itself by a band of +conspirators and forced to abdicate in favour of his brother, Muley +Nasr. The new Sultan began his reign with some military successes +(1309). He forced Jaime of Aragon to raise the siege of Almeria; but as +a set-off, he had to deal with conspiracies and rebellions at home, the +most formidable of these being headed by his nephew, Abu-l-Walid. In the +midst of these complications a curious incident occurred. Nasr was +stricken with apoplexy and left for dead. His deposed brother, Mohammed +III., was then released by some courtiers and brought to Granada, only +to find that the usurper had recovered his health and his crown. The +luckless Mohammed did not long survive his partisans’ mistake. But +retribution speedily overtook his brother. He was forced to yield to +Abu-l-Walid, and was glad to be allowed to retire to Guadix, the +sovereignty of which was allotted to him. Usurper though he was, Nasr +conducted himself with the dignity of a philosopher. His rival’s triumph +chagrined him not at all, and when invited by Pedro I. to join him in an +attack on Granada, he patriotically declined. He was a brave man, who +did not complain at meeting the fate to which he had subjected others. + +The new monarch of Granada, Abu-l-Walid Ismail, was a fighter and a +fanatic. He was fond of saying that he believed only in God and his good +sword. His faith in the latter weapon was justified. He annihilated a +Spanish army which had approached Granada, among the slain being the +Infantes, Don Juan and Don Pedro; and carrying his victorious arms +eastwards, wrested Baza and Martos from the enemies of his race. But +others also reposed their faith in the sword. Like another Agamemnon, he +appropriated a beautiful captive, the prize of the young Mohammed of +Algeciras. Three days after his triumphal entry into his capital he fell +at the gates of the Alhambra, a victim to the poniard of the man he had +injured. Perceiving his sovereign to be at the point of death and +resolving to avert the horrors of a disputed succession, the Wizir +summoned the chief men of Granada to the palace, and announced that +Abu-l-Walid was recovering from his wounds. The royal order was that all +present should take the oath to the boy-prince, Muley Mohammed Ben +Ismail, as successor to the kingdom. When this command had been obeyed, +the wily Wizir announced the death of Abu-l-Walid and the accession of +Mohammed IV. This was in the year 1325. + +When he had freed himself from the control of an unpopular regent, the +young Sultan displayed qualities of heart and mind in no way inferior to +those of his progenitors. It must be admitted that Arab historians have +been somewhat too partial to this line of kings, for there is hardly one +who is not described more or less explicitly as a paragon of all the +virtues. Mohammed IV. had to fight hard to hold his own against the +Spaniards on one side and the Africans on the other. He took Gibraltar, +and lost it again to Abu-l-Hasan of Fez. But the African king was soon +after obliged to ask his help to hold the fortress against the +Christians. Mohammed generously responded to the appeal, fell like a +thunderbolt upon the Spanish camp, and raised the siege. He was ill +repaid. In August 1333, he was imprudent enough to reproach his African +allies with their inability to hold the fortress; and a day or two +later, having sent his army home, made an excursion to the summit of +the Rock. He was followed by some among those he had reproached, and +quickly despatched by their poniards. His body, naked and mangled, was +found at the foot of the Rock, and conveyed to Malaga. No attempt seems +to have been made to identify or to punish his murderers. + +The ill-fated Mohammed was succeeded by his brother, Yusuf I., +Abu-l-Hejaj. While possessed, of course, of the virtues which seem to +have been inherent in the Nasrite dynasty, this prince was exceptional +in being an ardent, almost a passionate, lover of peace. He believed, +says Don Francisco Pi Margall, that it was more glorious to remedy evils +than to attempt perilous enterprises. Assisted by his able Wizir, +Redwân, he revised the laws and purified the administration of justice. +He built a magnificent palace at Malaga, and the great aljama or mosque +at Granada, of which no trace remains. Abandoning for once his settled +policy, he joined the Africans in a war against Castile. He was badly +beaten, and was glad to negotiate a truce of ten years. At the end of +that time, Alfonso of Castile died, and the Sultan of Granada was +stabbed to death by a madman, while at his prayers in the mosque, in the +year 1354. + +Mohammed V. was as virtuous and as unfortunate as his father. He had +reigned but four years when he was attacked in his own palace by the +partisans of his half-brother, Ismail. Narrowly escaping death, he fled +to his harem, and in the disguise of a slave eluded his pursuers and +made his way to Guadix. Ismail II. ran a brief and inglorious career, +and was dethroned and slain (1360) by the “Red King,” Abu Saïd. +Meantime, Pedro I. of Castile espoused the cause of the lawful sultan +and invaded the territory of Granada. But the magnanimous Moor would not +consent to remount the throne at the cost of his people’s blood. Pedro +accordingly withdrew, but freed Mohammed from his enemies by murdering +Abu Saïd when the latter incautiously paid a visit to Seville. Mohammed +was reinstated on his throne, and mindful of the services rendered him +by Pedro, advanced to his support with a Grenadine army against Enrique +de Trastamara. The tragedy of Montiel made a continuance of the struggle +useless, and the Moorish sultan devoted the remainder of his reign to +improving the condition of his subjects. He founded charitable +institutions and asylums, and raised Granada to a high pitch of +prosperity. The city, according to the contemporary writer, El Khattib, +became the metropolis of the Mediterranean, the emporium of commerce, +and the common fatherland of all nations. Under Mohammed V., the kingdom +may be considered to have reached its zenith. Thence to its nadir we +count but a century of years. + +Yusuf II., who succeeded his father in 1391, was so averse to war that +his subjects suspected him of Christian sympathies. His son rose against +him, and the pacific monarch was disposed to abdicate rather than draw +the sword. The exhortations of the Moroccan ambassador induced him to +take a manlier course, and putting himself at the head of the army +lately arrayed against him, he ravaged Murcia with fire and sword. It +was against this peace-loving sultan that Don Martin de la Barbuda, the +Quixotic Master of Calatrava, directed his wild expedition--defeated, of +course, and emphatically disavowed by Enrique III. of Castile. Yusuf’s +younger son and successor, Mohammed VII.,[A] was a prince of a very +different stamp. Accompanied by only twenty-five horsemen, he penetrated +to Toledo, and negotiated in the heart of Castile with Enrique III. The +peace thus concluded was soon interrupted, and Mohammed was quickly +waging war throughout the length and breadth of Andalusia. The war +continued with varying fortunes, and was carried on, as was usual in +those days, by a series of forays, neither side making any determined +effort to take the other’s capital or to secure his conquests. On +feeling his end approaching, the warlike Sultan bethought him of his +elder brother, Yusuf, whom he had confined in the castle of Salobreña. +Fearing that the captive might now supplant his own son, Mohammed sent a +messenger to command his execution. Yusuf was playing chess with the +governor of the castle when the fatal mandate arrived. He asked leave of +the emissary to finish the game, and before he had made the final move, +the news arrived of the death of Mohammed and of his proclamation as +Sultan of Granada. Yusuf showed himself as calm and unmoved at his +accession to the throne as when he had stood upon the threshold of +death. + +As peaceably disposed as his father, Yusuf III. had to withstand some of +the most determined assaults upon his doomed kingdom. In his reign took +place the celebrated siege of Antequera by the Castilians, the survivors +of which founded the suburb of Antequeruela adjacent to Granada. Yusuf +ultimately found peace and a valuable ally as the outcome of a strange +story of fraternal animosity. The people of Gibraltar revolted against +Granada and proclaimed themselves the subjects of Fez. The Sultan of +that realm sent his hated brother, Abu Saïd, to take possession of the +town, and treating him as David did Uriah, left him at the mercy of the +enemy. Yusuf, however, treated the captured prince with generosity, and +showed him a letter which he shortly after received from the Sultan of +Fez, requesting that he might be poisoned. Thirsting for vengeance, Abu +Saïd procured arms and soldiers at Granada, and, invading Morocco, drove +his perfidious brother from the throne. Thereafter he was the sworn ally +of the Sultan of Granada, whom Castile and Aragon no longer ventured to +trouble. Yusuf III. passed away in 1417. + +The history of Granada is henceforward one of almost continuous +revolution and tumult. Mohammed VIII. was driven into exile by a +namesake reckoned as the ninth of his name, and then restored by a +counter-revolution. A Castilian army ravaged the Vega up to the walls of +the capital. Granada itself would have fallen, had not Juan II. and the +great Constable, Alvaro de Luna, been recalled to Castile by the +disorders which resulted in the latter’s overthrow. An earthquake +desolated the distracted kingdom; and we may suppose that Mohammed VIII. +was not altogether sorry when he abandoned his throne to a pretender and +fled to Malaga. + +The new sultan, Yusuf IV., held his throne as a fief of Castile, the +support of which he had to purchase with humiliating concessions. He +anticipated inevitable assassination by dying after sixteen months of +authority; and for the third time, Mohammed VIII. was proclaimed at +Granada (1432). Hostilities with Castile were at once renewed. This time +the fortune of war was with the Moors, who routed their opponents at +Illora, Archidona, and Castril. But Mohammed VIII.’s star was never long +in the ascendant. He quarrelled with the powerful family of the +Abencerrages; and, deprived of their support, was finally expelled from +his kingdom, by his kinsman, Aben Osmin.[B] The usurper was victorious +over the Christians and took several strongholds, but his army suffered +at last a bloody defeat at Alporchones. This reverse seems to have +maddened Osmin, who henceforward conducted himself as a tyrant of the +old Roman type. Revolutions had now become as frequent in Granada as in +some South American states. The usurper ran his brief career, and was +then forced to make room for Mohammed VIII.’s cousin Saïd. Granada was +all for peace. Tribute was paid to Enrique IV. of Castile, Christian +captives released--all in vain. The intermittent warfare went on as +before. Jaen, Archidona, Gibraltar, were lost, despite the desperate +valour of the Prince, Muley Hassan, and of the Chieftain, Ibrahim, who, +on being vanquished, plunged on horseback into the depths of a ravine. +At last, however, the distracted Ibn Ismail obtained peace for his +wretched country by a personal interview with Enrique, outside the walls +of Granada. He devoted the remainder of his reign to the encouragement +of commerce, industry, and agriculture in his dominions--labour that did +not benefit even those who were to succeed him; and died at Almeria in +the year 1465. The knell of the Moorish Empire in Europe was sounded +over his bier. + +The reigns of Ali Abu-l-Hassan, Mohammed XI. (Boabdil), and Mohammed +XII. (Az-Zaghal) covered the years 1465-1492, during which the downfall +and extinction of the kingdom were accomplished. The history of these +events has already filled many bulky tomes, and has been made familiar +to English readers by the works of Prescott. Even our brief survey, +however, cannot be concluded without a summary of the last chapter of +the story of Granada. + +The character of Muley Ali Abu-l-Hassan was the reverse of his +predecessor’s. He was arrogant, impetuous, and warlike, a fanatical +hater of the Christians, and a zealous Muslim. In the first years of his +reign he gained some successes over the feeble Enrique IV., and proved +himself strong enough to quell a revolt at Malaga. But he let slip the +opportunity of attacking the new sovereigns of Spain, Ferdinand and +Isabel, when they were engaged in war with the partisans of “La +Beltraneja,” nor did he make any attempt to effect an alliance with +their numerous enemies. State-craft does not appear to have been +possessed to any great extent by the descendants of Al Ahmar. In 1476, +Abu-l-Hassan condescended to sue for a renewal of the alliance with the +Queen of Castile; but when Ferdinand of Aragon made the payment of the +tribute stipulated by Ibn Ismail a condition of the treaty, the Moor’s +proud nature revolted. “Return to your sovereigns,” he said to the +Spanish ambassadors, “and tell them that the sultans who paid tribute to +the Christians are dead; that here we manufacture only iron spear-heads +for our enemies.” These words sealed the fate of the Moors in Spain, +though the ruler who uttered them probably thought them merely the +prelude to just such a frontier war as had raged intermittently for so +many years. + +The first act in the long-drawn-out drama was the capture of Zahara by +the troops of Granada, in 1481--provoked by the predatory incursions of +the Marquis of Cadiz. The Christian garrison was surprised during a +furious tempest, and put to the sword. The rest of the inhabitants were +carried off in captivity to Granada. Abu-l-Hassan, inflated with pride, +returned to his capital. There were popular rejoicings, but the wiser +Moors shook their heads and predicted that the ruins of Zahara would +fall upon their own city. + +The fiery chivalry of Andalusia were not slow to retaliate. Two months +after the capture of Zahara, the more important Grenadine stronghold of +Alhama was taken by storm by the forces of the Marquis of Cadiz. The +news produced the utmost consternation in Granada. Abu-l-Hassan at once +set out with 53,000 men, and invested the place. Ferdinand the Catholic, +who had now conceived the idea of reducing the whole kingdom of Granada, +hurried to its relief; but he had only reached Lucena when tidings +arrived of the raising of the siege by the Marquis’s hereditary foe, the +Duke of Medina Sidonia. Abu-l-Hassan returned to the attack a few weeks +later, and Ferdinand resumed his advance, before which the Moors +retired. The Catholic sovereigns made their triumphal entry into Alhama +on May 14, 1482. + +Great preparations were made throughout Castile and Aragon for the +prosecution of the war, but the army actually assembled before Loja on +July 1--16,000 men--fell far short of Ferdinand’s requirements and +expectations. The town was ably defended by one of the bravest Moorish +chieftains, Ali Atar, who repulsed the Christians with severe loss. The +King of Aragon narrowly escaped with his life, and was compelled to beat +a retreat. Abu-l-Hassan swept the country as far as the Rio Frio. + +Such a success, if it had been followed up, might have turned the scale +in favour of the Moors. But at Granada, treason always followed closely +on the heels of victory. Years before, a beautiful Christian captive, +Doña Isabel de Solis, daughter of the Governor of Martos, had been added +to the Sultan’s harem. Under the name of Zoraya, in the course of time, +she bore him a son, Abu Abdullah, and rose to the rank of favourite +Sultana.[C] Now, jealous, it is said, of a Greek slave, or perhaps +antagonised by the first Sultana, Ayesha, she fomented a conspiracy +against her aged lord, and was imprisoned with her son in the Alhambra. +Thence they contrived to escape, and, exciting the populace in their +favour, obliged Abu-l-Hassan to seek refuge at Malaga. Abu Abdullah, +better known as Boabdil, or el Chico (the little), reigned in his stead, +but Baza, Guadix, and other eastern towns remained faithful to their old +allegiance. + +These dissensions among the Moors, though ultimately benefiting the +Spaniards, contributed indirectly to one of the most serious disasters +that befell the latter during the campaign. For an expedition against +Malaga, headed by the Marquis of Cadiz and the Grandmaster of Santiago, +while threading its way through the passes of the Ajarquia, was attacked +by the lieutenants of the old lion, Abu-l-Hassan, and cut to pieces. +Eight hundred Spaniards were left dead on the field. Boabdil, emulous of +the glory his father had acquired, marched out of Granada with 9700 men, +and gave battle to the enemy under the Count of Cabra, near Lucena. The +Moors were totally defeated, their bravest general, Ali Atar, was slain, +and Boabdil himself captured by a private soldier, named Martin Hurtado. + +Had this unlucky prince been left in the hands of his enemies, the war +might have had a different result, but his mother and followers at once +made proposals for his release. This was finally effected by a most +dishonourable treaty. Boabdil was accorded a two years’ truce, covering +all places that acknowledged his authority, and in return bound himself, +not only to pay a tribute of twelve thousand golden ducats, but to +assist with supplies the Spanish troops passing through his dominions to +attack his own father. Having thus exchanged his honour for his liberty, +the miserable Sultan returned to his capital, to find that the old King +had possessed himself of the Alhambra. A collision between the two +factions deluged the streets of Granada with blood. The alfakis and +ancients at length arranged an armistice, and Boabdil was suffered to +retire to Almeria, which was assigned to him as capital and residence. + +For the next four years, the Catholic sovereigns abstained from any +important military demonstration, contenting themselves with ravaging +the wretched country and harrying its frontiers with incessant forays +and marauding expeditions. Meanwhile, a strong man appeared on the scene +in the person of Abu-l-Hassan’s brother, Abdullah Az-Zaghal. Determined +to put an end to the divisions which, more than the prowess of the +Spaniards, were bringing about the ruin of his country, this prince +swept down upon Almeria, slew the governor, took prisoner Zoraya, but +failed, alas! to secure the person of Boabdil, who fled to Cordova and +placed himself under Ferdinand’s protection. Not long after, +Abu-l-Hassan, aged and worn out, abdicated in favour of his warlike +brother, and died at Mondujar. This event strengthened Boabdil’s claims +upon the tottering throne; and he entered into a compact with his uncle, +whereby both were to reign in Granada, the one in the Albaicin, the +other in the Alhambra. Anxious to redeem his reputation, the newly +restored monarch attacked the Christians near Loja with vastly inferior +forces. He was soundly beaten and forced to take refuge in the Alcazar +of Loja, whence he was only allowed to emerge on renewing the +humiliating treaty he had concluded at Cordova. He was not, however, +disposed to yield the crown to his rival, and returning to Granada, +surprised and seized the Alcazaba. One of the most desperate conflicts +recorded in the history of the city then occurred between the partisans +of the rival sultans. Further bloodshed was at last averted by the +intervention of ambassadors sent by Ferdinand. The old dual arrangement +seems to have been temporarily resumed. Meanwhile, Ferdinand and Isabel +once more took the field, and, in 1487, they invested and captured +Velez-Malaga and the important city of Malaga, notwithstanding +Az-Zaghal’s efforts to relieve both places. The brave Sultan now +abandoned the capital to his nephew, and established his headquarters at +Almeria. He succeeded throughout the year 1488, in repelling an invasion +of his province; but in the following year, after the fall of the strong +city of Baza, he bowed, as he himself expressed it, to the will of +Allah, and surrendered all the places in his possession, including +Almeria and Guadix, to the Catholic sovereigns. Mohammed XIII., as he is +styled by Moorish historians, retired to Algeria, where he died, years +afterwards, in indigence and obscurity. + +There remained now, of all the Moorish dominions in Europe, but the +single city of Granada, of which Mohammed XII., Boabdil, was at last +undisputed sovereign. He formed the manly resolution to sell his +hard-won crown as dearly as possible. He sallied from Granada, took +Alhendin and Marchena by assault, and laid waste the country in +possession of the Christians. Summoned by Ferdinand and Isabel to +surrender the city in accordance with an alleged treaty, he replied, and +probably with truth, that his proud and exasperated subjects would not +permit him to do so. The population of Granada was swollen by refugees +from all parts of the kingdom to thrice its normal figure. The Spanish +king perceived that the surest method to reduce it was by blockade. With +20,000 men, including some of the first chivalry of all Europe, he +entered the Vega, and built the town of Santa Fé, almost at the gates of +the threatened city. This permanent establishment of the Infidels on +their native soil plunged the Moors into profound gloom. No ray of hope +remained to the unfortunate Boabdil. The city endured the horrors of a +famine. The Spanish fleet precluded all hope of supplies from Africa, +towards which country the wretched people still turned in expectation of +help. The negotiations for the capitulation which the Sultan most +reluctantly entered upon in October 1491, had to be conducted, through +fear of the populace, with profound secrecy. Indeed, at the last moment, +Boabdil, in danger of his life, besought Ferdinand to accelerate his +entrance into the city. On January 2, 1492, accordingly, the Moorish +king, attended by fifty horsemen, surrendered the keys to the Catholic +sovereigns on the banks of the Genil, passing on to the domain allotted +him by the conquerors in the rocky Alpujarras. The story of his stopping +to gaze for the last time on his former kingdom, and of the rebuke +administered to him by his mother, is well known. We are not told +whether his eye caught the gleam of the great silver cross hoisted over +the Alhambra by Cardinal Mendoza by way of signal to the Spanish host +that the occupation of Granada was completed and that the dominion of +Islam in Spain was for ever at an end. + +It had endured seven hundred and eighty-one years--a period only sixty +years short of that which has elapsed since the Norman Conquest of +England. More remarkable still, the Sultanate of Granada had survived +the virtual break-up of the Saracen empire by over two centuries. When +we consider its limited area, its isolated position, the might and the +inveterate hostility of the neighbouring states, and the attacks to +which it was unceasingly subjected, we cannot but feel the liveliest +admiration for the valour and sagacity of its rulers and the +stout-heartedness of its people. Had not the Court been too often the +theatre of contending factions, had not those factions turned their +swords against each other, the Sultanate of Granada might have outworn +Spain’s military and national vigour, and have endured to our own day as +a western Turkey. For the spirit of Tarik, of Abdurrahman, and of +Almansûr was not altogether dead, even in the brave but ill-starred +sovereign to whom alone historians ascribe the downfall of the kingdom, +and whom they, strangely enough, accuse of effeminacy and weakness. The +Moors of Granada knew how to fight a losing fight; in gambler’s +parlance, when they had lost the tricks, they struggled to win the +honours. They proved themselves worthy of their ancestors; and the +finest, as it was also the latest, monument of the Mohammedan dominion +in Spain is Granada the noble and the memorable. + + + + +THE ALHAMBRA + + +The Alhambra, or Red Palace, the Acropolis of Granada, is the finest +secular monument with which the Muslims have endowed Europe. It belongs +to the last period of Spanish-Arabic art, when the seed of Mohammedan +ideas and culture had long since taken deep root in the soil and +produced a style which might more properly be called Andalusian than +Moorish. If the Muslims left a deep impression upon Spanish thought and +art, it must not be supposed that they altogether escaped the influence +of their Christian neighbours. During the last two centuries of their +occupation the rigid puritanism of their creed was greatly relaxed, +especially as regarded art--always the reflection of the customs and +spirit of a people. The wave of the Renaissance did not leave untouched +the shrunken Moorish empire, and if Castilian kings did not hesitate to +employ Muslim artisans in the construction of their cathedrals, the +Sultans of Granada did not disdain the advice of Christian artists in +the embellishment of their palaces. The Alhambra remains a thoroughly +Mohammedan monument, but one which symbolises a phase of Mohammedan +culture and institutions almost peculiar to one country and epoch. +Nowhere else and never since has Islam reached such a pitch of +refinement. The Alhambra stands as the high-water mark of its art and +civilisation. + +There will never be produced a new Alhambra, any more than a new +Parthenon or new Pyramids; for these great buildings were the +expressions of ideas and aspirations peculiar to societies which have +long ago perished. Thus, the Red Palace of Granada is not interesting +merely as a Mohammedan edifice left isolated in the far west of Europe, +but as the monument of a people and a civilisation long dead and gone. A +sadness, too, attaches to it, proceeding from the memory of the violent +extinction of that people with a mission unfulfilled--fraught, as it +seems to have been, with so much of light and beauty to the Christian +and the Muslim worlds. + +The Sierra Nevada thrusts forward a spur which overlooks Granada on the +south-east, and is divided by two clefts or barrancos into three +eminences. The easternmost of these is crowned by the Generalife, the +westernmost by the ancient fortifications known as the Torres Bermejas +or Vermilion Towers. The hill between the two--in shape aptly compared +by Ford to a grand piano--is that on which the various buildings, +collectively styled the Alhambra, are reared. Here there existed a +settlement in remote Celtiberian days; and the later city of Illiberis +or Elvira stood here, and perhaps extended to the Torres Bermejas. When +the Moors came they erected a fortress--the Alcazaba--on the point of +the Alhambra hill, overlooking the Vermilion Towers. To this they gave +the name of _Alhamra_, “the red,” as Riaño thinks, to distinguish it +from the Alcazaba in the Albaicin quarter, or perhaps from some +confusion of the new building with the old. The builder, according to Al +Khattíb, was one Sawar Alcaysi, who lived in the second half of the +ninth century; though Contreras says it was known as the Tower of Ibn +Jaffir, and Ford names Habus Ibn Makesen as the founder. At all events, +the structure dated from the earliest period of the Arabic domination, +and Al Ahmar found here, on taking possession of Granada, a small town +girdled with walls and defended by a citadel. + +Al Khattíb refers to the Citadel of Granada in these terms: “The +southern part of the city is commanded by the suburb of the Alhambra or +Medina Alhamra, the court of the sultanate, crowning it with its +turrets, its lofty towers, its strong bastions, its magnificent Alcazar, +and other sumptuous edifices, which by their splendour ravish the eye +and the soul. There is, too, such an abundance of waters that, +overflowing in torrents from the tanks and reservoirs, they form on the +declivity streams and cascades, whose sonorous murmurs are heard afar +on. At the foot of the walls are spacious gardens, the domain of the +Sultan, and leafy groves, through the dense greenery of which the white +battlements gleam like stars. There is, in short, around the circuit of +the walls, no spot that is not planted with gardens and orchards.” The +scene has not greatly changed since the Arab wrote. Gurgling brooks +still run down the slopes of the Alhambra Hill, and nightingales sing in +the thick woods of elm. + +The Alcazaba, being the oldest part of the palace-fortress, should be +studied first. It is entered by the Torre and Casa de las Armas, through +a horseshoe arch in red brick, with fine azulejos or glazed tiles. To +the left is the Torre de Homenage, with which war and time have not +dealt too gently. It contains, it is interesting to note, a Roman votive +altar, embedded by the Moorish builders in the masonry, and inscribed by +“the grateful Valerius to his most indulgent wife, Cornelia.” At the +opposite extremity of the Alcazaba is the Torre de la Vela, or Watch +Tower. It is in two storeys, communicating by a dark and narrow +staircase, with loopholes in the wall.[D] In this tower is hung a +famous bell, to be heard, it is said, at Loja, thirty miles away. It is +rung on the anniversary of the Conquest of Granada, on which day it is +the custom, according to local superstition, for damsels, desirous of +husbands, to strike it with all their strength. On the summit of this +tower the cross was first planted by _el tercer rey_, Cardinal Mendoza. +The view from the platform, of city and snow-clad Sierra, luxuriant +Vega, and white-walled towns and villages, is as extensive as it is +beautiful. At the foot of the Torre de la Vela extends the place of +arms, defended by two towers, now styled de los Hidalgos and de la +Polvora, and formerly known as the Paniagua and Cristóbal del +Salto--names suggesting legends now forgotten. + +An ancient document at Simancas names among the towers connecting the +Alcazaba with the rest of the fortress, the Torre del Adarguero, “the +Tower in which dwelleth the servant of Doctor Ortiz,” the Torre de +Alquiza, the Torre de Hontiveros (now the Torre de las Gallinas), and +the Tower and Room of Machuca. Of these remains exist, but of another +tower, referred to as the Torre de la Tahona, no trace remains. + +The Alcazaba, according to the most recent researches, was separated +from the site of the palace by a ravine where, after the Conquest, +cisterns were constructed by order of the Conde de Tendilla and over +which the existing Plaza de los Algibes was formed. These works appear +to have necessitated the demolition of a wall which ran across from the +Torre de las Gallinas on the north to the beautiful Puerta del Vino on +the south. This gateway is now quite isolated from the wall of +circumvallation. Over the horseshoe arch is an inscription in stucco, of +the usual Moorish character, invoking the Divine protection for the +builder, Sultan Mohammed V. It appears to commemorate some striking +victory. Over the arch again is a fine double window or ajimez. On the +keystone is seen the key, so often figuring as a symbol in all parts of +the Alhambra, with a G in Kufic characters--perhaps the initial letter +of the city. The interior façade has a large horseshoe arch and the +twin-windows above. The Puerta del Vino was probably the entrance to the +courts and gardens of the palace. + +Having crossed the Plaza de los Algibes, we leave behind us the early +Moorish works, and approach the buildings which owe their foundation to +the Nasrite or Grenadine dynasty. The story which credits Al Ahmar +(Mohammed I.) with the creation of the Red Palace in the middle of the +thirteenth century appears to be well-founded, for when the Alhambra is +referred to as existing in earlier times, it is undoubtedly the Alcazaba +that is meant. To the same hands may be safely attributed the great +outer wall of the Alhambra which girdles palace and fortress, following +the inequalities of the hill’s contour. Al Ahmar has left his device, +_Wa ha ghalib ila Allah_ (There is no conqueror but God), in many parts +of the building. These words were uttered by him in mournful deprecation +of the acclamations of his subjects on his return from assisting the +Christians in the Conquest of Seville. During the two and a half +centuries of the Nasrite rule, the palace underwent many radical +transformations and renovations, so that it is difficult to distinguish +between the works of the various sultans. Ford infers, rightly as it +seems to us, from the frequent repetition of their names upon the walls, +that Yusuf I. and Mohammed V. had the largest share in the embellishment +and restoration of the edifice. Since the Reconquest many changes and +additions have been made--notably the Palace of Charles V., to which +detailed reference will be made later. + +The summit of the Alhambra hill was probably peopled in Al Ahmar’s time, +and it continued to be so during the reigns of his successors. The +population thus dwelling at the foot of the throne was mainly composed, +in later times at least, of hangers-on at the Court, ex-favourites and +discarded sultanas, ulemas and doctors of the law, soldiers of fortune, +and ambassadors, permanent and extraordinary. Such powerful tribes as +the Beni Serraj, which exercised so much influence in the last stages of +Nasrite rule, would also have had quarters for their leaders here. The +little town--which seems to have had no parallel before or +since--extended from the eastern extremity of the hill to within as near +the doors of the palace as the temper of the monarch for the time being +may have permitted. + +The precise limits of the palace, even at the time of the Conquest of +the Catholic sovereigns, have never been ascertained. Portions of it +were undoubtedly demolished to make room for the palace of Charles V. On +the other hand, it is recorded in the archives of the Alhambra that +various private houses were acquired for the purpose of enlarging the +older building. But making due allowance for demolitions, extensions, +and restorations since the fifteenth century, we have before us in the +Palace of the Alhambra a magnificent example of the last or third period +of Hispano-Arabic architecture. + +On the general plan of the edifice, the remarks of Contreras are worth +quoting _in extenso_: “We penetrate into every Arabic monument through +an outlying tower, or between two towers, except in the dwelling-houses +of the people, in which case the entrance is by a small, square opening, +a portal useless among us, though seen with frequency in the ancient +houses of Andalusia. A long, narrow hall cuts the axis perpendicularly, +thus determining the distribution into two wings of the edifice. By the +meeting of the two axes is found the entrance, before which we find +those effects of perspective which are so fantastic in these buildings. +Following the ingress we find a court with tanks and fountains, with +light and graceful arcades. Behind the second gallery, following the +same central axis, are oblong naves which cross each other at right +angles to the extreme end of the building, where the cupolas or turrets +of the innermost dwelling apartments rise majestically above the level +of the edifice and are reflected in the waters of the basins. The halls +of a house of this kind, according to its rank or grandeur, were +arranged in little pavilions on the long sides of the courts, as various +in their style of decoration as the tents of a Turkish camp, where the +quarters of an Amir may be found beside those of the common soldiers. +And if these rows of chambers are now found disposed according to the +strict alignment of Mudejar eaves, it is an indication that the severe +genius of the Christian conquerors has transformed them, not permitting +those crests, cupolas, or steeples which disturb the symmetry of the +decoration. + +“Outside this plan, absolutely classical, which we may compare to a +cross with the transverse arm prolonged and cut at various distances by +perpendicular arms parallel to each other, but of different length, the +Spanish Arabs found no other easy method of building, so that, while +diminishing or prolonging the arms of the axis as much as the +dependencies of the largest palaces might require, they never departed +from the system, wherever they might build.... This, then, is the true +scheme of the Alhambra, and it is quite other than that conceived by the +classicists of the eighteenth century, with its façades, angles, and +squares.” + +It must, however, be admitted that order is much more conspicuous in the +decoration than in the ground plan of the palace. All Moorish +ornamentation is based on a strictly geometrical scheme, and every +design may be resolved into a symmetrical arrangement of lines and +curves at regular distances. The intersection of lines at various angles +is the secret of the system. All these lines flow from a parent stem, +and no figure or ornament is introduced at random. Moslem ornamentation +abhors irregularity and rejects symbolism. The law of Islam which +forbade the delineation of living objects was not, however, always +observed in this palace of half-Europeanised Arabs. + +Simplicity and a love of the elementary characterise also the colouring +of the decorations. On the stucco work only the primary colours were +used: blue, red, and yellow. The secondary colours occur only in the +dados of mosaic. The green groundwork of much of the ornamentation as it +is to-day was formerly blue, time having changed the tint of the +metallic pigment employed. The decoration of the surfaces seems to have +been planned with strict regard to the colouring they were to receive. +Both as regards decoration and colour, allowance must always be made for +innovations since the Alhambra passed into Christian hands. + +“Let us look for a moment,” writes Mr. John Lomas, “at some points of +detail--more especially of the ornamentation. Wherever the eye falls, it +may rest upon some fine bit of arcading or peristyle, so delicate in the +transparent tracery of its spandrils, in the rich work of its capitals, +and its slenderness of pillar, that one marvels at first how such +fairy-like construction could stand for even a single generation. +‘Lovers’ tears’ they call this lace-work, and they tell one to stand +just within the dim hall or vestibule, and get a vision of the blue sky +that appears beyond as a little cloud of sapphires. But it is surely +better--an insight into a piece of truer art--to stand outside the +eastern kiosk of the Lion’s Court and looking through spandril, +vestibule, and sala, catch the light glinting through the distant +opposite windows. That is transparency of effect, indeed! One would like +to meet with the architect who thought it out. + +“Some of the irregularities which obtain here seem almost incredible. +What could be more satisfactory than this range of exquisite arcading, +its slender palm-like stems, its gracefully stilted arches, and the +fairy filigree-work of the spandrils? There seems to be not one single +point that can offend the justest eye, and yet there are nearly a dozen +different archings, differing in form, or height, or width; the cloister +varies in breadth at every turn; the upper galleries are uneven; the +doorways are the personification of self-will; the columns are placed, +sometimes singly, sometimes grouped, and the numbers of them on the +respective sides in no way correspond.... And, nevertheless, there is an +all-prevailing symmetry--and harmony. The whole is a triumph of +accurately judged effect.” + +In a foot-note Mr. Lomas adds: “As an instance of the careful way in +which the architects of these olden days went to work, it may be +mentioned that the exact relation between the irregular widths of +cloistering on the long and short sides of the court is that of the +squares upon the sides of a right-angled triangle. This obtaining of +beautiful symmetry through irregularity is a strangely lost art.” + +We will now proceed to a more detailed description of the Palace of Al +Ahmar. + + +THE PATIO DE LA MEZQUITA AND ADJACENT BUILDINGS. + +Recent researches have shown that the ancient ingress to the Palace of +the Alhambra was by a doorway leading into what is now the chapel. It is +square in shape and has long been walled up. Above it may be deciphered +the following inscription: “O place of the high kingdom and asylum of +prodigious aspect! Thou hast achieved a great victory, and the merits of +the work and of the artificer [are] the glory of the Imam Mohammed. The +Shadow of the Most High [be] upon all!” This text is believed to refer +to Mohammed III. (1302-1309). + +The chapel, which had been established by Ferdinand and Isabel adjacent +to the Patio de los Leones, was transferred to this part of the Palace +of Philip IV. in 1621. At that time a fine chimney-piece in the +Renaissance style was converted into an altar. The apartment contains +but few remains of its Moorish builders. Without, is the Patio de la +Mezquita, with an exquisite façade, much disfigured by a modern +gallery. The walls are adorned with the oft-recurring device, “God alone +is Conqueror,” and with sentences extolling the sultans, in various +sorts of arabesques. The inscription round the central window refers to +Mohammed V. (1354-1391). + +The grand Mosque of the Alhambra was built in 1308 by Mohammed III., and +was in good preservation until the occupation of the French, who, +according to Gayangos, entirely destroyed it. An account of it has been +left to us by Ibn-ul-Khattíb, the Wizir of Yusuf I.: “It is ornamented +with mosaic work and tracery of the most beautiful and intricate +patterns intermixed with silver flowers and graceful arches, supported +by innumerable pillars of polished marble; indeed, what with the +solidity of the structure which the Sultan inspected in person, the +elegance of the design, and the beauty of the proportions, the building +has not its like in this country, and I have frequently heard our best +architects say that they have never seen or heard of a building which +can be compared with it.” Little more remains of this superb temple than +the small oratory entered through a door in the wall opposite the altar +of the chapel. Here the _mihrab_ is still to be distinguished. Before +it, Yusuf I., in the act of prayer, fell a victim to the poniard of an +assassin in the year 1354. + +Adjacent to the _mihrab_ is the ruined tower of Puñales, which presents +many architectural points of difference from the rest of the palace, and +has features which may have suggested these characteristics of the +Mudejar style seen in other parts of Andalusia. The principal window of +the tower was furnished with a wooden balcony with lattices similar to +those seen in Constantinople and Cairo. + +Retracing our steps across the Patio de la Mezquita, we reach the +spacious Court of the Myrtles or of the Fish-pond (Patio de los +Arrayanes, or de la Alberca). This is the court first entered by the +visitor through the modern entrance. It is one of the most beautiful +parts of the palace, and gives a foretaste of the glories that lie +beyond. One feels immediately transported to the East. “The originality +of the architecture [says Don Francisco Pi Margall], the airy galleries, +its rich _alhamis_ or alcoves, the splendid apartments of which glimpses +are obtained through its arches, the fountains and foliage, the +reflection of its stuccoed walls in the waters of the pond, the murmur +of the breezes that agitate the dense myrtles, the transparency of the +sky, the silence that reigns all about--all oppress the soul at the same +time, and leave us for some moments submerged in a sea of sensations +which reveal to us little more than the harmony of the whole scene.” +The court forms an oblong, bounded at the north and south by two +galleries supported on eight columns of white marble, and to the east +and west by walls pierced with doors and twin-windows covered with +arabesques, but differing in degree of ornamentation. At each angle we +find an _alhami_ or alcove, where the Moors were accustomed to laze away +the day, extended on rich carpets and divans. The walls of these little +places are encrusted with reliefs in stucco, their roofs are of the +stalactite pattern. Along the middle of the court extends the _alberca_ +or fish-pond, its margins hidden by orange trees and myrtles. The clear +water gushes up into two round basins at either end. To the north, the +prospect is closed by the battlemented Tower of Comares, to the south by +the walls of the Palace of Charles V. Through one of the entrances can +be seen the fountain in the Patio de los Leones. The court is redolent +of the languor, voluptuousness, and splendour of the East. + +Each arcade is composed of seven semicircular arches, the central one +reaching up to the cornice, while the others, much lower, are closed +with perforated woodwork or lattices. The roof of the southern gallery +is of artesonado or troughed form, and bears seven small cupolas; over +the central arch of the northern gallery is a single cupola painted with +little gold stars on a blue ground. + +In this court there are numerous inscriptions, of which the following +are the most important. + +“Go and tell true believers that Divine help and ready victory are +reserved for them.” + +“I am like the nuptial array of a bride, endowed with every beauty and +perfection.” + +“Truly Ibn Nasr is the sun, shining in splendour.” + +“May he continue in the noontide of his glory even unto the period of +his decline.” + +In the Patio de la Alberca is an arch differing altogether from all +others in the Palace. Only one surface is decorated, and that with a +principal or guiding figure made out by colours. The ornaments +approximate more closely than is usual in Moorish architecture to +natural forms, and the arch has very much of a Persian character. + +This court is believed to have constituted the division between the male +apartments, frequented by the general public, which we have already +described, and the _Harem_, or private quarters, including the Patio de +los Leones, &c. + +We pass through a beautiful arch decorated with tasteful floral designs, +into the Sala de la Barca, or ante-room of the Hall of Ambassadors. This +fine apartment, formerly radiant with colours, was seriously damaged in +the fire of 1890. The ceiling of this hall, says Owen Jones, “is a +wagon-headed dome of wood of the most elaborate patterns, receiving its +support from pendentives of mathematical construction so curious that +they may be rendered susceptible of combinations as various as the +melodies which may be produced from the seven notes of the musical +scale; attesting the wonderful power and effect obtained by the +repetition of the most simple elements.” + +Beyond this hall rises the Tower of Comares, appearing to rest on the +slenderest pillars and almost to be balanced in the air. The real +supports have been purposely kept out of sight. The view from the summit +of the massive battlemented tower is magnificent. From this platform, +Washington Irving remarks, the proud monarchs of Granada and their +queens have watched the approach of Christian armies, or gazed on the +battles in the Vega. The walls of the tower are of surprising thickness. + +The interior, which is a square of 37 ft. by 75 ft. high up to the +centre of the dome, is occupied by the Sala de Embajadores, the +reception-room of the Sultans. It is the largest and perhaps the most +imposing of the halls of the Alhambra. Lifting our eyes, we behold a +glorious, airy dome, of artesonado work, with stars and painted angles. +Owen Jones is of opinion that the present ceiling replaced an earlier +one, which was supported by an arch of brick. The hall lacks its former +pavement of marble, its central fountain, and the lattices that filled +in its twin-windows. But it is still adorned by a beautiful mosaic dado +(known as _sofeisfa_) reaching to the wooden cornice. Numerous are the +Kufic and African inscriptions introduced into the decoration, the motto +of Al Ahmar being frequently repeated. Opening on to the hall are nine +alcoves, each with twin-windows, which have replaced balconies. The +alcove opposite the entrance was the site of the Sultan’s throne, as the +long poetical inscriptions testify. What gorgeous assemblies must have +filled this saloon in bygone years--and what tumultuous scenes and +fateful decisions must have been here enacted! + + +THE PATIO DE LOS LEONES AND ADJACENT APARTMENTS. + +The Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions) occupies, with the chambers +opening on to it, the south-eastern quarter of the Palace. “There is no +part of the edifice that gives us a more complete idea of its original +beauty and magnificence than this,” says Washington Irving, “for none +has suffered so little from the ravages of time. In the centre stands +the fountain famous in song and story. The alabaster basins still shed +their diamond drops; and the twelve lions, which support them, cast +forth their crystal streams as in the days of Boabdil. The +architecture, like that of all other parts of the palace, is +characterised by elegance rather than grandeur; bespeaking a delicate +and graceful taste, and a disposition to indolent enjoyment. When one +looks upon the fairy tracery of the peristyles, and the apparently +fragile fretwork of the walls, it is difficult to believe that so much +has survived the wear and tear of centuries, the shocks of earthquakes, +the violence of war, and the quiet, though no less baneful, pilferings +of the tasteful traveller: it is almost sufficient to excuse the popular +tradition, that the whole is protected by a magic charm.” + +The court is an oblong measuring 116 ft. by 66 ft. On each side is a +peristyle or portico, and at either end a graceful pavilion with a fine +dome. The supporting marble columns are 124 in number and 11 ft. high. +They are placed irregularly, sometimes singly, sometimes in pairs--an +arrangement which does nothing to mar the general impression of harmony. +The arches exhibit a similar variety of curve, and spring from capitals +decorated with rich foliage of various designs. The space above the +arches is filled in with the usual arabesque work, and adorned with +verses from the Koran. The ceilings of the porticos are enriched with +delicate stucco work, and the walls are covered to a height of five feet +with a dado of blue and yellow azulejos, bordered with blue and gold +enamelled escutcheons bearing an Arabic motto on a bend. + +In the centre of the court is the fountain from which it derives its +name. This is composed of two basins (in Moorish times there was but +one) supported by twelve marble lions. These Arabian sculptures, remarks +Ford, are rudely but heraldically carved, and closely resemble those to +be seen supporting Norman-Saracenic tombs in Apulia and Calabria. “Their +faces are barbecued, and their manes cut like the scales of a griffin, +and their legs like bedposts, while a water pipe stuck in their mouths +does not add to their dignity.” Indeed, the consolatory reminder +contained in the tremendously long inscription round the basin, that +there is nothing to be feared from these creatures, for “life is wanting +to enable them to show their fury,” seems ludicrously unnecessary. As +specimens of Arabian sculpture they are in all probability unique; the +builders of the Alhambra were evidently not over-strict in the +observance of their religion. The inscription referred to has been +versified by Valera, and runs into forty-four lines of Castilian. + +On the south side of the Patio de los Leones is the Sala de los +Abencerrages (Hall of the Beni Serraj), so called because it is believed +to be the scene of the massacre of thirty-six chiefs of that tribe by +order of Boabdil. A reddish vein in the marble flooring is pointed out +as the victims’ indelible bloodstains. The story has only the slenderest +historical foundation, and was first circulated by a writer of the name +of Ginés Perez de Hita, who lived in the sixteenth century. According to +some, the usurper Aben Osmin (1446) was beheaded here by order of the +prince Muley Hassan; but others, writing of that confused period of +Granadine history, say the tyrant fled to the mountains. This chamber, +perhaps the most elegant in the Alhambra, does not seem a likely place +for deeds of blood. It is entered through a wonderfully graceful arch, +growing out of, rather than springing from, marble shafts. The chamber +is a square, prolonged on the east and west by two _alhamis_ or alcoves, +which are entered through exquisitely-curved arches. But the glory of +the Sala de los Abencerrages is its roof--its plan like that of a star, +with pendants or stalactites, and sixteen windows in its vaultings. + +“Its thousand stalactites,” writes Don Francisco Pi Margall, “its +colours, its innumerable archings, its crowns of stars, its complicated +depressions and projections, its cones, its polygons, its accidents of +light, the effects of chiaroscuro, present it at first sight as +something confused, indefinable, indecipherable, resplendent, and vague, +like that broad band, the Milky Way, which crosses the pavilion of the +heavens. Yet in reality it is most regular, although irregular in +appearance; the compass of the geometrician had more to do in planning +it than the genius of the artist; but its lines are so many, and their +combinations change so rapidly, that the scheme is only to be +comprehended after a long and patient study.” + +The azulejos which face the walls date from the time of Charles V. In +the centre of the hall is the marble basin beside which the Beni Serraj +are fabled to have been slain. + +Opposite this hall, on the north side of the Lions’ Court, is the Sala +de las Dos Hermanas (or, of the Two Sisters), so called after two twin +slabs of marble let into the pavement. An exquisite arch gives +admittance from the court to a narrow corridor, which communicates on +the right with the upper storey, and with the mirador or latticed +balcony, from which the ladies of the Harem would gaze into the _patio_ +below. The hall is as rich, as graceful, as suggestive of Eastern luxury +and repose as that which we have just left. In each wall is an arched +opening, two being entrances, the others admitting to alcoves somewhat +more shut off than in other parts of the Alhambra. Above each arch is a +window corresponding to the apartments in the upper storey, now +vanished. The roof exhibits the same marvellous combinations of +geometrical forms, the same confused symmetry, as are seen in the Sala +de los Abencerrages. Indeed, this hall is generally (but not +universally) considered the more admirable of the two. The surface of +the walls is hidden beneath costly reliefs of stucco and azulejos. +Inscriptions on the sixteen medallions and cartouches have been +deciphered into a long poem by Ibn Zamrek, composed in honour of +Mohammed V., and translated into eleven verses of Spanish by Valera. One +verse exhorts us “to look attentively at my elegance and reap the +benefit of a commentary on decoration; here are columns ornamented with +every perfection, the beauty of which has become proverbial.” + +In this magnificent apartment formerly stood the famous vase (_el +jarron_), which tradition says was discovered in one of the subterranean +chambers of the Palace, full of gold. It is now in the little Alhambra +Museum. The vase, which dates from the fourteenth century, and is +beautifully enamelled in white, blue, and gold, is described by Baron +Davillier in his work on Spanish Pottery. + +Beyond the Hall of the Two Sisters is a long, narrow apartment called +the Sala de los Ajimeces (Hall of the Twin Windows). Its ceiling and +decorations are little inferior to those of the larger hall. On the +north side opens the exquisite Mirador de Lindaraja, or +prospect-chamber, affording a delightful view of the garden beyond. In +wealth of detail and ornamentation, this little bower of fifteen by ten +feet surpasses all other parts of the Palace. In Moorish days the +Sultanas could look from behind the lattices of the three windows across +the town and the plain of the Vega. When their eyes wearied of the +prospect they could scan the numerous poetical effusions traced upon the +walls. + +Returning to the Patio de los Leones, we enter, at its eastern +extremity, the Sala del Tribunal, or de la Justicia. This hall consists +of seven chambers opening on to a common vestibule. The four small rooms +are square, and are separated by three larger oblong apartments. The +same gorgeous colouring, the same profusion of geometrical +ornamentation, here as elsewhere in the Alhambra! The arch over the +central small chamber, or divan, is perhaps the finest in the whole +Palace. But what renders this hall the most remarkable in the edifice is +that it contains what are probably the only existing specimens of +mediæval Muslim figure painting. The ceiling of the central alcove or +_alhami_ is adorned by a painting representing ten personages, who were +formerly supposed to be judges, whence the name given to the hall. They +were intended, more probably, to represent the first ten sultans of the +Nasrite dynasty. The painting, like those in the other alcoves, is done +in bright colours (gold, green, red, &c.) on leather prepared with +gypsum. The designs appear to have been sketched in brown. The paintings +in the other _alhamis_ are of an even more interesting character. In the +first, a castle with square towers and battlements is seen; outside it +is a lion led in chains by a maiden, whose hands are rudely grasped by a +savage with shaggy hair and beard. A rescuer hurries to her assistance +in the person of a Christian knight, armed _cap-à-pie_. On the other +side of the picture, the same knight is shown attacked by a Moorish +cavalier, who plunges a lance into his breast. The Moor is evidently out +hunting, for beneath the combatants’ horses his dogs are chasing the +wild boar and fox. From the towers of the castle two fair ladies +observe, with evident pleasure, the Christian’s overthrow. In another +part of the picture both knights are shown, following the chase; and a +page is seen, leaning against a tree, with sword and shield, presumably +awaiting his master’s return. + +The second painting is entirely devoted to hunting scenes. Moors are +seen chasing the wild boar, while the Christians occupy themselves with +bears and lions. The huntsmen are also seen returning and offering the +spoils of the chase to their ladies. The Moor greets his sultana with a +benign and condescending air; the Christian warrior kneels to the lady +and offers his prize. + +The most competent critics have now arrived at the conclusion that these +paintings are of the fourteenth century, and therefore executed under +the Muslim sovereigns, in defiance of the precepts of the Koran. Whether +they were the work of a Mohammedan it is not so easy to say. Gayangos +has pointed out remarkable similarities between these paintings and +those in the Campo Santo at Pisa; and on the whole it is probable that +they were executed by an Italian artist, whom the Muslims may not have +scrupled to employ to do a thing for them unlawful. A parallel instance +of casuistry is that of London Jews, who on certain feasts employ +Christians to perform forbidden menial offices. It should also be said +that in the opinion of some modern Muslim doctors the prohibition of +sculpture and painting is not to be taken as absolute. + +In the Sala de la Justicia was found a basin for ablutions, now in the +Museum, on which are interesting reliefs of lions, deer, and eagles. +According to the inscription, this was designed in 1305 for the service +of the mosque, a fact which seems to support the view of the authorities +just mentioned. + +It was in this hall that Ferdinand and Isabel caused Mass to be +celebrated after the Reconquest, and here that the cross was set up by +Cardinal Mendoza. The devices of the Catholic sovereigns--the Yoke and +Sheaf of Arrows--have been introduced into the decoration of the +alcoves. + +The ruinous tower and apartment to the south of the Hall of Justice, +called the Rauda, appears to have been the mausoleum of the Sultans. The +niches in which the _turbehs_ were placed may still be distinguished, +and the long, narrow trough used for the purification of the corpse. In +the Museum may be seen three tablets with the epitaphs of the Sultans +Yusuf III. and Mohammed II. and of a prince Abu-l-Hejaj, probably the +former’s son. + +Of the few remaining apartments of the Alhambra, the most interesting +perhaps is the Tocador, or Queen’s Dressing-room, at the side of the +Patio de Lindaraja, opposite the Mirador de Lindaraja. This was the +apartment occupied by Washington Irving, according to his own showing: +“On taking up my abode in the Alhambra, one end of a suite of empty +chambers of modern architecture, intended for the residence of the +governor, was fitted up for my reception. It was in front of the +Palace.... I was dissatisfied with being lodged in a modern +apartment.... I found, in a remote gallery, a door communicating +apparently with an extensive apartment locked against the public.... I +procured the key, however, without difficulty; the door opened to a +range of vacant chambers of European architecture, though built over a +Moorish arcade.... This fanciful suite of rooms terminated in an open +gallery with balustrades, which ran at right angles with a side of the +garden.... I found that it was an apartment fitted up at the time when +Philip V. and the beautiful Elizabeth of Parma were expected at the +Alhambra, and was destined for the Queen and the ladies of her train. +One of the loftiest chambers had been her sleeping-room, and a narrow +staircase leading from it ... opened on to the delightful belvedere, +originally a mirador of the Moorish sultanas, which still retains the +name of the _tocador_. I determined at once to take up my quarters in +this apartment. My determination occasioned great surprise, but I was +not diverted from my humour.” + +This exquisite apartment is adorned by four sixteenth-century paintings, +representing the legend of Phaëton. On the artesonado ceiling, painted +and gilded, may be read the invocation: “The help and protection of God +and a glorious victory for our Lord, Abu-l-Hejaj, Amir of the Muslims!” +Round the boudoir runs a gallery of nine arches on Arabic pillars, +painted and decorated with the figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, +Justice, Strength, and Temperance, Jupiter, Neptune, Plenty, and the +Vestals’ Fire. These paintings were the work of two Italians, Giulio +Aquila and Sandro Mainere, both pupils of Raphael. + +The charming little garden or patio of Lindaraja or Daraja, which +intervenes between this regal boudoir and the Moorish _mirador_, appears +to have been originally called _Jin Dar Aja_, or garden of the palace of +Ayesha. The old Moorish garden that used to extend as far as the Tower +of Comares is now confined by the walls of the Sala de las Ajimeces and +three arcades of modern construction. The fountain in the centre dates +from the seventeenth century. An enchanting spot is this, with its +cypress, orange, and citron-trees rising from trim hedges of myrtle and +rose. + +Between this garden and the court of the Alberca lie the baths--those +indispensable adjuncts to the Muslim household--most skilfully and +artistically restored by Contreras. The plan is that usually followed +throughout the East. Passing through the _Sala de las Cámas_ or Unrobing +Room, where, from a high gallery the songs of the odalisques were wafted +down to the sultan reclining in one of the alcoves, we enter the Sala de +Baños, with its white marble bath and pavement of glazed tiles. This +corresponds with the apartment called by the Arabs, the hararah, or +vapour-bath, and described in Lane’s “Manners and Customs of the Modern +Egyptians”; and it was under the graceful arcades which support the +dome that the bathers underwent the kneading and rubbing processes +lately introduced among us. The chamber is lighted from above through +star-shaped apertures. The inscriptions refer to the felicity awaiting +men in this palace of delight. The bathing-apartments consist of three +halls and two smaller chambers, vulgarly called the Infantas’ Baths. + + +THE TOWERS AND GATES OF THE ALHAMBRA + +“The wall of the Nasrites,” writes Señor Fernández Jiménez, “of which +scarcely a patch remains unimpaired, measured about 1400 metres from one +extremity to the other, and was defended by twenty-six towers, counting +as one the two buttresses that defended the gate of the Siete Suelos. To +this number should properly be added the Torre de las Armas, which is +pierced by a gate common to the Alcazaba and Alhambra, and is therefore +also a Nasrite work. The citadel was fortified, moreover, by five +bastions, corresponding to as many gates, and by various external +defences, of which traces remain in the modern alamedas. The thickness +of the towers varies according to their situation and purpose, the +distance between them ranging from 34 to 64 metres approximately.” At +the present day we can count only fifteen towers, the names of which +are: las Aguas, los Siete Suelos, las Cabezas, la Justicia, la Polvora, +los Hidalgos, la Vela, las Armas, las Gallinas, los Puñales, las Damas, +los Picos, del Candil, de la Cautiva, and las Infantas. + +The Puerta de la Justicia is the principal entrance to the Alhambra. It +was built, as the inscription over the arch relates, by the Sultan Yusuf +Abu-l-Hejaj, in 1348. Here justice was administered in Moorish days +after the old patriarchal fashion. Above the arch is carved an open +hand, the signification of which is a matter of controversy. The most +probable explanation is that it is a religious symbol, the five fingers +typifying Faith in God and the Prophet, and the commandments, to pray, +to fast, to give alms, and to make the pilgrimage to Mecca. The inner +arch is beautifully decorated with arabesques, and with the symbol of +the key. The entrance is continued through another gate, with winding +passages contrived so as to embarrass an enemy. The arch which gives +egress from the tower shows some fine enamelling and festoons. + +Just outside this gate is the Pilar de Carlos V., a fountain in the +Greco-Roman style, erected by the Alcaide Mendoza in 1545. It is +ornamented with the Imperial arms, and sculptured heads of the river +gods, Genil, Darro, and Beiro. + +The double Torre de los Siete Suelos flanks a gateway, now walled up, +which was formerly the principal entrance to the fortress. Through it +the unfortunate Boabdil is said to have passed on his way to exile and +obscurity. The tower is so called because it is believed to descend +seven storeys underground. Four subterranean chambers have been +investigated. Here tradition places the site of much buried treasure, +and fables are told of phantom guards and enchanted sentries. + +At the south-eastern angle of the _enceinte_ is the ruinous Torre del +Agua, which derives its name from the aqueduct that at this point spans +the ravine. On the north-eastern side we reach the Torre de las +Infantas, the interior of which is a perfect model of the smaller +Oriental dwelling-house. Through a small vestibule we reach a covered-in +patio with a fountain in the centre, and alcoves opening out on three +sides. The ornamentation is graceful and original. The tower is one of +the most interesting parts of the fortress. Somewhat less complete and +regular in its plan, but even more elegantly decorated with +rose-coloured tiles, is the adjoining Torre de la Cautiva (Captive’s +Tower). Here the inscriptions resound the praises of Abu-l-Hejaj and +refer to the _Lion_ residing within these walls--a very different +occupant from a captive! + +The Torre de los Picos seems to have been so styled from the peaked +battlements which crown it. It evidently underwent extensive remodelling +about the time of the Spanish Reconquest, but some relics of the Nasrite +rule remain in the shape of some beautifully moulded twin windows. + +The Torre de Ismaïl, or de las Damas (Ladies’ Tower), was given by +Mohammed V. to his son Ismaïl, and has a richly decorated belvedere and +a hall very tastefully ornamented. The ruined tower of Puñales has some +curious stucco decorations, differing from those found in other parts of +the palace. + +Between the Torres de los Picos and de las Damas is a little _mihrab_ or +oratory built on the wall. At the Reconquest it was appropriated to the +private use of one Astasio de Bracamonte. Though it has undergone +deplorable “restorations,” the _kiblah_ or easterly niche and other +indications of the Muslim rite can still be made out. Strangely enough, +the portal is guarded by two Moorish lions brought from the old +Mint--the injunctions of the Mohammedan religion being thus ignored in +its own temple! + +The parish church of Santa Maria, erected in 1581, occupies the site of +the Mosque of which Al Khattíb appears to speak, writing of the deeds +of Mohammed III. (1302-1309). “And among his great actions, the greatest +and most remarkable was the construction of the great Mosque or Aljama +of the Alhambra, with all that it contained of elegance and decoration, +mosaics, and cements; as well as lamps of pure silver and other great +marvels. In front of the Mosque were the baths, erected with the money +levied from the Christians in his dominions. With the receipts from +these baths the Mosque and its ministers were maintained.” The modern +church is of brick, and contains nothing of note, except a Visigothic +inscription, referring to the construction of three temples, dedicated +to St. Stephen, St. John, and St. Vincent, in the years 594 and 607. + + +THE PALACE OF CHARLES V. + +The forlorn, roofless palace in the classical style, which seems so out +of place amid these Oriental buildings, was begun by order of the +Emperor Charles V. in 1538. It was never completed. The Flemish Cæsar’s +intention seems to have been to establish a permanent residence here, +whence he could contemplate the beauties of the Moorish palace. The +building is a quadrangle of four façades, each seventeen metres high. +The lower storey is of the Tuscan order, the upper, Ionic. Some of the +marble portals are very fine. In the decoration appear allusions to the +campaigns, on sea and land, directed by the Emperor, his motto, _Plus +oultre_, and the emblem of the Golden Fleece. + +The interior of the palace is occupied by an imposing circular court, +with a gallery supported by thirty-two columns. The staircase is loftily +designed, and altogether the palace, if it had been completed and built +almost anywhere else, would have been a dignified memorial of Charles’s +reign. + + + + +THE GENERALIFE + + +Across an ivy-draped ravine--a perfect study in green and red--the +Palace of Recreations, the Generalife, overlooks the rugged walls of the +Alhambra. The name is believed to have been derived from Jennatu-l’arif, +“the garden of the architect.” The palace appears to have been built by +a Moor called Omar, from whom it was purchased by the Sultan +Abu-l-Walid. At the Reconquest it became the property of a renegade +prince, Sidi Yahya, who adopted the name of Don Pedro de Granada, and +whose descendants, the family of Campotejar, are to this day the actual +owners. + +The Generalife cannot be regarded as an important monument of Moorish +architecture. Through the central court, which measures 48.70 by 12.80 +metres, runs the conduit which irrigates the whole estate, and connects +with the Acequia (or canal) de la Alhambra. The arcaded southern façade +and the spacious hall adjoining have been altered in order to make a +large vestibule. The arcade resembles that of the Court of the +Fish-pond, and exhibits a poetical inscription declaring that +Abu-l-Walid restored the palace in the year 1319. + +The halls of the Generalife are of little interest in themselves, and +contain several portraits of doubtful authenticity. Those of Ferdinand +and Isabel, of Juana la Loca and her husband, and of the fourth wife of +Philip II., are the most important. Among the portraits of the Granada +family is one supposed to be that of Ben Hud Al Mutawakil, the rival of +Al Ahmar, and ancestor of Sidi Yahya. This seems to be the portrait +which English travellers persist in mistaking for that of Boabdil. + +But if the palace is in no way remarkable, the gardens are a veritable +bower of beauty and delight. Water bubbles up everywhere and moistens +the roots of myrtles, cedars, and tall cypresses, the finest trees in +all Spain. The legend of the Abencerrage discovered in dalliance with a +Sultana, beneath one of these cypresses, is absolutely destitute of any +sort of foundation. The nature of the spot--so eminently fitted for love +and lovers’ trysts--may have suggested the story. But the garden is +ill-kept, and many of the magnificent trees have been cut down. + + * * * * * + +In the city of Granada itself the memorials of the Moorish domination +are scanty and fast disappearing. In the Zacatin, which was in old +times the chief bazaar, is a building formerly styled the Casa del Gallo +de Viento (Weathercock House), and now known by the commonplace +designation of Casa del Carbon (Charcoal House), owing to its having +been appropriated to the storage of that useful product. Tradition avers +that the palace (for such the house at one time was) was built by Badis +Ibn Habus, a governor of Granada, who ruled about 1070 A.D., by whose +direction a vane was made in the shape of a warrior, mounted and armed +with shield and spear. In later years the building served as a corn +exchange. The only notable features are the entrance with its horseshoe +arch and twin-windows, and vestibule with dome and alcoves. Adjacent to +the Casa del Carbon is the house of the Duque de Abrantes. Beneath it is +said to be a subterranean passage communicating with the +Alhambra--blocked up, oddly enough, by the present owner of the site, +without any exploration or examination. + +Entered from the Carrera de Darro is the once handsome Moorish bath +house, now in the last stages of dilapidation and neglect. It is +believed to date from the earliest period of Mohammedan rule. The arches +are of the old horseshoe type, and the columns and capitals of a +primitive order. An inscription beginning, “In the Name of God, the +Merciful, the Compassionate ...” may still be made out. + +The bath itself, the various chambers of repose and disrobing, the usual +alhamies, can also be traced. + +The old Moorish mint was demolished in 1643, and the famous Gate of +Bivarrambla can no longer be described in any sense as a Mohammedan +work. + +The effacement of the Moorish character of Granada, as compared with its +survival in Seville, serves to show how much more intense the religious +and racial bias became in Spain during the two hundred and odd years +that elapsed between the conquests of the two cities. The spirit in +which St. Ferdinand, Alfonso el Sabio, and Pedro I. approached the works +of their Mohammedan foes and subjects presented a very favourable +contrast to that manifested by the Catholic sovereigns, Charles V. and +Philip II. + + + + +CATHOLIC GRANADA + + +Almost the first act performed by a Spanish king on his entry into a +conquered Mohammedan city was to convert the chief mosque (aljama) into +a Christian church. This was also done at Granada, but the chapel of the +Alhambra remained for some time the cathedral of the new See. The mosque +in the city, afterwards elevated to that rank, is described by the Abbé +Bertaut of Rouen (quoted by Valladar), writing in 1669, as “square, or +rather longer than wide, without vaults, and the roof covered with +tiles, which for the most part were not even joined. The whole was +supported by a number of small stone columns, harmoniously arranged.” +Jorquera says the mosque was composed of five low naves. Whether or not +it was originally a Visigothic church, as some writers pretend, the +temple probably dated from the earliest centuries of the Muslim +occupation, and the tower which contained the mihrab was long famous as +the Torre Turpiana. + +The building, after serving the purposes of the Catholic rite for two +centuries, disappeared between 1705 and 1759 to make room for the +present sacristia (sacristy). As a cathedral, it had been superseded by +the adjoining and existing edifice, dedicated on August 17, 1561. + +Older by about a quarter of a century than the foundations of the +cathedral is the Royal Chapel (Capilla Real), which is the most striking +and interesting memorial of the Conquest of Granada. It was begun in +1505 as a mausoleum for the Catholic sovereigns, Ferdinand and Isabella, +under the direction of the famous Enrique Egas, and completed in the +year 1517--a year after the king’s death and thirteen years after the +queen’s. The chapel is shaped like a Latin cross, and is one of the +latest specimens of the Spanish Gothic style. It is a comparatively +modest and simple building, contrasting strongly with the ornate and +elaborate structures of the succeeding age. The decoration of the +interior consists almost entirely in a frieze bearing a long inscription +in gilt letters which reads: “This chapel was ordered to be built by the +most Catholic Don Ferdinand and Doña Isabella,” &c. &c. There is a +suggestion of Gothic influence in the magnificent railing or grille, +partly of iron, partly gilt, which divides the nave from the transept, +and was made in 1522 by Maestre Bartolome. The kneeling figures of the +Catholic sovereigns are seen on either side of the high altar. These, +says Ford, “are very remarkable, being exact representations of their +faces, forms, and costumes: behind Ferdinand is the victorious banner of +Castile, while the absorbing policy for which both lived and died--the +conquest of the Moor and the conversion of the infidel--are embodied +beneath them in singular painted carvings; these have been attributed to +Felipe Vigarny, and are certainly of the highest antiquarian interest. +In that which illustrates the surrender of the Alhambra, Isabel is +represented riding on a white palfrey between Ferdinand and the great +Cardinal Mendoza, who sits on his trapped mule, like Wolsey. He alone +wears gloves; his pinched aquiline face contrasts with the chubbiness of +the king and queen. He opens his hand to receive the key, which the +dismounted Boabdil presents, holding it by the wards. Behind are ladies, +knights, and halberdiers, while captives come out of the gates in pairs. +Few things of the kind in Spain are more interesting. The other +basso-relievo records the ‘Conversion of the Infidel’; in it the +reluctant flock is represented as undergoing the ceremony of wholesale +baptism, the principal actors being shorn monks. The mufflers and +leg-wrappers of the women--the Roman _fasciæ_--are precisely those still +worn at Tetuan by their descendants.” + +These reliefs are unquestionably more vigorous and artistic, and also +more in harmony with the structure generally, than the gorgeous +Renaissance cenotaphs of Ferdinand and Isabella--most probably the work +of the Spanish sculptor, Bartolome Ordoñez. The two great sovereigns are +shown lying side by side, the faces expressing infinite dignity and +repose. At each corner of the sepulchre is seated one of the four +Doctors of the Church, below whom is a Sphinx. Medallions on two of the +four sides represent respectively the Baptism and Resurrection of Jesus, +and St. George and St. James. Beautifully done are the figures of the +Twelve Apostles, the escutcheons, and, in fact, all the details of this +grandiose but unimpressive monument. + +The adjacent sepulchre of Ferdinand and Isabella’s daughter, the unhappy +Queen Juana, and of her husband, Philip I., the Handsome, is inferior in +design and execution. The heads of the recumbent figures are not +faithful portraits. The reliefs represent the Nativity, the Adoration of +the Magi, the Agony in the Garden, and the Entombment. In the niches are +figures of the Cardinal Virtues (not conspicuous in Philip during life), +and at the corners the statues of Saints Michael, George, Andrew, and +John the Divine. Very beautiful are the figures of children, and much of +the heraldic decoration. The whole is in the most florid style of the +Renaissance, and was carved at Genoa by order of Juana’s son, Charles +V. + +Very different are the actual resting-places of the sovereigns so +gorgeously commemorated in stone above. Descending to a narrow vault +beneath the cenotaphs, we find five rude coffins, with iron bands. +Herein repose the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella, of Juana and +Philip, and of their son, Prince Juan. Ferdinand’s coffin may be +identified by the letter F. “Here,” writes Pi Margall, “lie together in +the dim light fathers and sons, monarchs of three dynasties united in +less than a century for the greater glory of the fatherland; here lie +the last princes of the Mediæval Age, and those who at its close +inaugurated the Modern Era. Here they lie--heroes and fathers of +heroes--kings who never retreated before the face of danger, and queens +whose lives were consumed in the fire of profound love; fortunate ones +who, returning from the battle, found rest and refreshment in the arms +of their beloved; and unhappy souls who drained the cup of suffering, +without finding in the dregs even that lethargy which the excess of +grief procures for some. Who can enter this murky precinct without +feeling his heart swayed by contrary emotions--without inclining with +reverence before the lead which covers the men who rescued the nations +from the anarchy of feudalism? While a tear may drop on the bier of that +great princess [Isabella], who can restrain his pity for that unhappy +queen [Juana] who, intoxicated with love, passed the night waiting for +the dawn to break that she might go forth, alone, to the ends of the +world, in search of her adored husband, and would not leave his coffin +till the tomb had closed upon it?” + +We leave these great and unhappy ones of a bygone age, passing away to +nothingness in their last dark palace, and ascend to the chapel. There +is not much more to see. In the sacristy are preserved the crown and +sceptre of the Catholic queen, the sword of Ferdinand, and some rich +Gothic vestments. Over an altar on the south side is a _Descent from the +Cross_, of which Ford speaks highly. The Chapel Royal communicates with +the cathedral by a noble portal in the Late Gothic style. The pillars on +each side are adorned by the statues of kings-at-arms. Above the +entrance an eagle upholds the Arms of Spain. Heraldic devices, religious +emblems, and reliefs of saints and cherubim are mingled in the +decoration, which is beautiful and not over-elaborate. + +The Chapel Royal, though architecturally forming part of the cathedral +building, has an entirely independent ecclesiastical organisation of its +own, with its own chapter and clergy. Amusing instances are recorded of +the bad blood existing between the cathedral canons and the royal +chaplains. This enmity (says Valladar) was carried so far that once, +when the Archbishop Carrillo de Alderete wished to visit the chapel, +attended by his canons, the chaplains refused to admit them. The +archbishop accordingly caused the disobliging priests to be arrested, +whereupon a long lawsuit ensued. The chaplains had the right of passage +across the cathedral transept to the Puerta del Perdon, which is the +official or state entrance to the royal mausoleum--a privilege which +seems to have galled the canons to the quick. Strange that such +ludicrous bickerings should have arisen out of a foundation which +commemorates the grandest and most epoch-making events in the national +history. Truly from the sublime to the ridiculous there is but one step. + + +THE CATHEDRAL + +The Cathedral of Granada was built adjoining and connecting with the +Chapel Royal and sacristy or old mosque, between the years 1523 and +1561. Charles V. preferred the Gothic style, but at last consented to +the adoption of the designs of Diego de Siloe. The church is described +by Ford as one of the finest examples of the Græco-Roman style, but the +plan is distinctly Gothic, nor can the edifice be said to deserve the +description, “the most magnificent temple in Europe after the Vatican.” +It is impressive in its severity and vastness, and may be described as +dignified rather than beautiful. + +The façade, said to have been designed by Alonso Cano, is flanked by +towers (one unfinished) and divided by four huge stone columns which +support a cornice. On this rest four pillars, sustaining three deep, +gloomy vaultings. At the foot of these pillars, on the cornice, are +statues of the Apostles. The principal door is adorned with a high +relief of the Incarnation by Risueño, the side-doors with reliefs of the +Annunciation and Assumption. The tower on the left rises seventy-five +metres above the level of the present floor; its three stages are in the +three styles of Grecian architecture respectively. + +The walls of the Cathedral are, to a great extent, hidden, as is so +often the case on the Continent, by adjoining buildings. The Puerta del +Perdon, which, as we have said, officially belongs to the Chapel Royal, +is Diego de Siloe’s masterpiece, and is elaborately sculptured. Over the +arch two allegorical figures uphold a tablet on which is inscribed a +dedication to the Catholic monarchs. The great flanking columns of the +portal are decorated with huge escutcheons. The introduction of heraldic +symbols into religious architecture is nowhere more conspicuous than at +Granada. + +The interior of the church, which is paved with black and white marble, +is composed of five naves with a cross-vaulting in the Gothic style, +supported by five piers, each of which is composed of four Corinthian +pillars. Above the high altar at the east end of the structure rises a +noble dome, 220 ft. high, resting on eight pillars, and opening with a +bold main arch, 190 ft. high. The expansion of the Capilla Mayor +(principal chapel) at this point into the segment of a circle is a +clever feat of architecture. Lafuente says, “The daring of the main arch +is admirable, the way it is contrived creating a wonderful effect: +looking at it from the elliptical arches it appears to be extended and +on the point of falling away through having sunk below its level.” + +The Capilla Mayor is a handsome, profusely ornamented fabric, supported +on twenty-two Corinthian columns in two courses. Between the lower +columns are the elliptical arches referred to, and on the upper course +are the seven beautiful paintings of scenes from the Blessed Virgin’s +life, by Alonso Cano. Between the courses are interesting paintings by +Juan de Sevilla and Bocanegra. Much of the statuary is good, and the +Flemish stained glass in the fourteen windows is beautifully rich in +colour and well executed. The high altar itself, the work of José de +Bada, is in a depraved style; but its badness is redeemed by the two +kneeling statues of Ferdinand and Isabella on either side by Mena and +Madrano, and by the bold, great heads of Adam and Eve, above the +pulpits, carved and painted by Alonso Cano. + +In the centre of the middle nave, separated from the Capilla Mayor by +the transept, is the choir, in that debased Churrigueresque style of +which every one speaks ill. The only things notable within it are the +fine organs, and the crucifix by Pablo de Rojas. Beneath the choir is +entombed Alonso Cano (died 1667), one of the greatest of Andalusian +painters, and a minor canon of the Cathedral. + +One of his most characteristic pictures--the _Virgén de la Soledad_--is +to be seen over the altar of the Capilla de San Miguel (the first chapel +on the right on entering the church). It was stolen in 1873, and +recovered in the city shortly after. The chapel is beautifully adorned +with red marbles and serpentine. It was built by that high-minded, +beneficent prelate, Archbishop Moscoso, in 1804. His tomb is by the +sculptor Folch. In the chapel are placed--we do not know why--two +elegant Chinese vases. + +Between this and the next chapel is the entrance to the sacristy or old +mosque, and to the left of it a small picture, before which that really +saintly saint, St. John of God, was accustomed to pray. The Capilla de +la Trinidad has some good paintings, among them a _Trinity_ by Cano, two +miniatures on copper by the same artist, a _Death of St. Joseph_ by +Maratta, and copies of works by Raphael and Ribera. There are genuine +Riberas (_The Child Jesus_, _St. Laurence_, and _St. Mary Magdalene_) +and more works by Cano in the extravagant eighteenth-century chapel of +Jesus Nazareno. After this comes the handsome Gothic door of the Chapel +Royal, by Enrique Egas; and beyond that the Chapel of Santiago, with a +fine equestrian statue of the Patron Saint of Spain, presented to the +Cathedral by the City in 1640. The old painting of the Virgen del Perdon +was given to Isabella the Catholic by Innocent VIII., and used to be +carried about by the queen. It is publicly venerated (not worshipped or +adored, please note) on the anniversary of the Reconquest, January 2. + +Passing the Cathedral sacristy with its handsome door by Siloe, we pause +before the Puerta del Colegio. Behind the sculptured Ecce Homo, it is +said Maeda carved a Lucifer of extraordinary beauty. He applied to Siloe +for permission to give a proof of his skill, and was told by the testy +architect to sculpture the Devil himself if he wanted to. Maeda was wag +enough to take him at his word. + +The chapel of Santa Ana covers the vault intended for the archbishops, +and contains a good sixteenth-century altar-piece, and a St. Jean de +Matha (a Frenchman, not a Spaniard) by Bocanegra. The six chapels that +follow present no features of interest. The fourth chapel on the left +side of the Cathedral is named La Virgen de la Antigua, after a Gothic +image greatly venerated by Ferdinand the Catholic, and regarded with +great reverence by the devout of Granada. Here are two portraits by Juan +de Sevilla of Ferdinand and Isabella at prayer; the king is clad in +armour. The paintings are in the Venetian style. Of the retablo by +Cornejo, the less said the better. Cano’s realistic heads of Saints John +and Paul reflect the fondness of the pietists of his day for the +morbid--they are in the Chapel of the Virgen del Carmen. The first +chapel, or baptistry, was erected by Adam and Aguado, at the expense of +Archbishop Galvan, who is buried here near another occupant of the +episcopal throne, Don Bienvenido Monzón. The fine reliefs of Saints +Jerome and Isidore are by Mora. We have now reached the entrance doors, +on each side of which hangs a good painting. The three pictures over the +doors represent mystic allegories. + +The most interesting feature of the chapter room, or Sala Capitular, is +the noble porch, with its figures of Justice and Prudence, which, with +the group of the Trinity, may be safely attributed to Maeda. + +Before leaving the Cathedral, the sacristy should be visited. It +contains Cano’s _Assumption_ and two small statues by him; a _Crucifix_ +by Montañez; a _Holy Family_, by Juan de Sevilla; and a _Mary +Immaculate_ by Bocanegra. The treasury contains some wonderfully +embroidered vestments, and good, but not extraordinary, examples of the +silversmith’s craft. The signet ring of Sixtus III., and the monstrance +presented by Isabella, have of course, an historical interest. + +A casket is also shown to visitors, who are assured it is that in which +were placed the jewels pawned by Isabella to provide funds for +Columbus’s first voyage. If this is true, Pandora’s box was as nothing +compared to this one! The Queen’s Missal, the work of Francisco Flores, +is beautifully illuminated. It is placed on the high altar on the +anniversary of the Reconquest. Those interested in arms will handle with +curiosity the sword of Ferdinand the Catholic; the hilt has a spherical +pommel and drooping quillons with branches towards the blade, which is +grooved for about two-thirds of its length. Other relics of the Catholic +sovereigns are their sceptre, Isabella’s crown, the royal standards used +at the Reconquest, and a chasuble said to have been embroidered by the +Queen. + +By the door next to the Capilla de San Miguel we pass into the Sagrario +(sacristy) occupying the site of the old mosque, which it replaced in +1705. It was designed by Don Francisco Hurtado and Jose de Bada, and it +is well that the responsibility for so meretricious a piece of +architecture should be divided. It may be dismissed as Churrigueresque. +It is not, fortunately, devoid of interest. In one of the chapels is +buried “the magnificent cavalier, Fernando del Pulgar, Lord of El +Salar,” as the inscription records. This valiant knight and true, during +the last campaign against Granada, rode into the city with fifteen +horsemen, and set a lighted taper on the floor of the mosque, and, as +others say, nailed a paper bearing the Ave Maria on the door. This +exploit earned for him and his descendants the extremely valuable +privilege of wearing their hats in the Cathedral. De Pulgar’s bones have +fared better than those of the good Archbishop de Talavera, which were +scattered when the old mosque was demolished. The Sagrario possesses +several good paintings, including a San José by Cano, of whose works the +Cathedral buildings, as may have been noticed, contain a fine selection. +By the door next to the Capilla de Pulgar, and a darkish passage, the +Chapel Royal may be entered. + +The oldest purely Christian building in Granada is the convent and +chapel of San Jeronimo, a foundation transferred here from Santa Fé +immediately after the Reconquest. The convent is now a cavalry barracks, +and is not to be inspected by the curious. The church, built by Diego de +Siloe, is in the form of a Latin cross--stern, plain, dignified. The +walls are adorned with frescoes representing scenes from the Passion, +portraits of the Fathers of the Church, and angels playing on the harp +and singing. They were executed in 1723 by an obscure painter called +Juan de Medina. Eight chapels open on the aisles and nave, one +containing a fine retablo, with the Entombment as subject. The principal +chapel exhibits Siloe’s skill at its best. He is said to have realised +in its construction “his lofty ideal of effecting a truly Spanish +Renaissance; an ideal which bore little fruit, since some of his +followers confined themselves to the strictest classicism, others to the +development of the plateresque.” Very much in the spirit of the +Renaissance is the decoration of the chapel with the statues of the +worthies of the classic world, Cæsar, Pompey, Hannibal, Homer, and +others, side by side with Old Testament characters. Strange, this +admiration for a pagan civilisation co-existent with violent religious +fanaticism against all contemporary non-Catholics! + +The whole church was practically dedicated to the memory of Spain’s +greatest soldier, the Great Captain, Gonzalo de Cordova, who was buried +here, but whose ashes have been transferred to Madrid. The hero and his +duchess are shown, sculptured, kneeling in prayer on either side of the +high altar, over which rises a magnificent retablo, divided into several +compartments filled with reliefs and statues. The horizontal sections +are in the Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, and composite Orders respectively. +The lowest central compartment is occupied by the Tabernacle, the +subjects of the three compartments immediately above being the +Immaculate Conception, St. Jerome, and the Crucifixion. Over all is +shown the figure of the Eternal Father. This splendid work, the best of +its kind in Spain, seems to have been executed by a variety of artists, +among them Juan de Aragon, Pedro de Orea, and Pedro de Raxis. The +beautiful shell-like vaulting above is adorned with figures of the +Apostles, of Saints Barbara, Katharine, Magdalen, and Lucy, and the +warrior-saints, George, Eustace, Martin, Sebastian, and Francis. The +sword given by the Pope to the Great Captain, formerly one of the +treasures of the chapel, was carried off by Sebastiani during the +Peninsular War. + +There are a great many beautiful things in this old church which seem to +escape the ordinary traveller’s notice. The seats in the choir were +designed by Siloe. The frescoes, representing the Triumph of the +Church, of the Virgin, and of the Eucharist, the Assumption, &c., are +very well done. The restoration of the fabric has often been denounced, +but it is difficult to see how it could have been better carried out. + +In the neighbourhood of the Great Captain’s chapel is a monument to a +hero and a great Spaniard of a very different type. Juan de Robles +devoted himself to the sick and the suffering with a zeal which earned +for him confinement in a madman’s cage. His virtues were recognised +after his death, and procured him canonisation as St. John of God in +1669. A tribute to his memory which he would have no doubt appreciated +better is the large hospital founded two years after his death, that is, +in 1552. The saint’s ashes, in a silver coffin, repose in the hospital +chapel, a gorgeous structure, characterised by costliness and bad taste. +The trail of the serpent of Spanish architecture--Churriguera--is over +all. All that is interesting in it is the portrait of the saint, a copy +of one in Madrid. + +The name of the Great Captain is associated with the Cartuja, or +suppressed Carthusian monastery, the site of which was his gift. The +monastery, begun in 1516, was pulled down in 1842. A small portion of +the buildings, however, remains, together with the church. The single +nave is disfigured by over-elaborate ornamentation in the plateresque +style. The doors of the choir are richly and tastefully inlaid with +ebony and mother of pearl, cedar and tortoise-shell, and were the work +of a friar, Manuel Vazquez, who died in 1765. The sanctuary, in the +baroque style, is enriched with precious marbles, some richly veined +with agates. On some of the slabs the hand of Nature has traced the +semblances of human and animal forms. In the adjoining sacristy, various +marbles have been combined so as to produce an effect dazzling and +gorgeous in the extreme. The hall is certainly one of the most +remarkable in Spain. Scarcely less marvellous are the exquisitely inlaid +doors and presses. The generally bad style of the church is also +redeemed by a statue of St. Bruno, the founder of the Carthusian Order, +ascribed to Alonso Cano, and some pictures by Bocanegra, Giaquinto, and +Cotán. The last named, a friar, was responsible for the pictures in the +cloister, representing the martyrdom of Carthusian monks in London by +the tyrant Henry VIII. and the brigands who acted as his officers. + +The Cartuja was formerly much richer in works of art, but, like San +Jeronimo, it was ransacked by the French under Sebastiani, who +exhibited, as on all occasions, the discrimination of a dilettante +coupled with the rapacity of a bandit. + +In front of the church of Santos Pedro y Pablo is a very handsome +mansion built in 1539 for Hernando de Zafra, secretary of the Catholic +sovereigns. The portal is in three stages: the first contains the +entrance, a square doorway, between Doric columns; the second bears the +escutcheons of the family, above them being sculptured griffins and +lions; the third, a balcony between pilasters, carved in delicate +relief. In a line with this is another balcony, bearing the curious +inscription, _Esperandola del Cielo_--“Looking for it from Heaven.” +These words are explained by a tragic legend. De Zafra is said to have +suspected his daughter of a clandestine attachment. To satisfy his +doubts, he burst into her room one day, and found her page assisting the +lover to escape by the window. Baulked of his prey, the father turned, +with death in his face, upon the boy. “Mercy!” shrieked the page. “Look +for it in Heaven!” answered the Don, as he hurled his daughter’s +accomplice from the balcony into the street below. So runs the legend. +De Zafra does not appear, according to the records, to have left any +children; but his daughter may not have survived the terrible +consequences of her amour. “After all,” remarks Valladar, “nothing was +easier in the sixteenth century than to throw a page out of the window +without attracting the attention of the police or magistrates.” + +Granada is by no means as rich in ancient churches and houses as +Seville. The house of the Great Captain now forms part of the convent of +Carmelite nuns. On the façade a tablet sets forth that “In this house +lived, and on December 2, 1515, died, the Great Captain Don Gonzalo +Fernandez de Aguilar y de Cordoba, Duke of Sessa, Terranova, and +Santangelo, the Christian hero, and conqueror of the Moors, French, and +Turks.” + +The early sixteenth-century Casa de los Tiros--the property, like the +Generalife, of the Marques de Campotejar--seems to occupy the site, if +it did not actually form part, of a Moorish fortified dwelling. Some +think it was an advanced work of the fortifications known as the Torres +Bermejas. The interior certainly shows Arabic influence. The staircase +was probably built by Moors, and there are rich azulejos and a splendid +_artesanado_ hall. This is adorned with busts of various Spanish +celebrities, with the graven heads of Moors and Christians, and with +reliefs of Lucretia, Judith, Semiramis, and Penthesilea. + +In this house is preserved an Arabic sword with a magnificent hilt and +scabbard, said to have belonged to Boabdil. The scabbard, at all events, +is unquestionably of workmanship posterior to the Reconquest; and it is +well to be a little on one’s guard in the matter of the numerous relics +ascribed to the last Moorish king. + +Of old Granada, in truth, not much more remains than the buildings we +have already named. We may glance at the tower of San Juan de los Reyes, +so badly restored that its peculiar Moorish architecture, more markedly +Eastern than that of any other Grenadine monument, has been almost +entirely effaced. And in the old Casa de Ayuntamiento there are some +historical curiosities, notably the original draft of the charter +granted to Granada by the Catholic sovereigns, and the handsome official +shield of the city. Many sites, such as the Plaza de Bibarrambla, +commemorated in the songs and stories of old Spain, have been completely +modernised. But there is a monument--a simple column surmounted by an +iron cross--more deeply interesting than any reared by the Moors. The +inscription on the pedestal records that on this spot, on May 26, 1831, +Doña Mariana Pineda was publicly garroted at the age of thirty-two +years. She died a martyr for liberty and a victim of the strange +absolutist frenzy which did much to ruin Spain in Ferdinand VII.’s +reign. Doña Mariana’s house had been a centre for liberal gatherings, +and when raided by the police was found to contain a tricolour flag. +She met her death with a courage worthy of her cause. Five years later, +when the nation had recovered its sanity, her ashes were carried in +state to the Ayuntamiento. The magistrate who had condemned her was in +his turn executed. On the same site many Spanish patriots were shot by +the French--their labour and their lives being given to replace +Ferdinand VII. on the throne. The square, formerly called the Campillo, +is now named after Mariana Pineda. You may see there her statue in +marble, sculptured by Marna and Morales. + +The hill called the Sacro Monte is a curious memorial of human +credulity. In 1594 one Francisco Hernandez reported to the Archbishop +Don Pedro Vaca de Castro that he had discovered the relics of several +local martyrs in the caves here. A church of no architectural merit was +raised on the spot, and became a place of pilgrimage--the evidence that +the martyrs referred to had ever existed being meanwhile wanting. Within +the church are preserved some leaden books, inscribed in Arabic +characters, and supposed to contain the acts, of the saints. These works +were the subject of a furious controversy in the seventeenth century. +The caves are interesting on account of their natural peculiarities, and +were quite probably catacombs used by the early Christians of +Illiberis. Some rocks may be noticed, in parts worn away by the repeated +kisses of devotees. There is a superstition that the person who kisses +the stone the first time will marry within the year, and that a second +kiss will ensure to those already married an early dissolution of the +conjugal tie. + +On the opposite side of the city, also in the outskirts, is a little +Mohammedan oratory, now disfigured and restored beyond recognition. It +is called the Ermita de San Sebastian, and was the place where Boabdil +gave up the keys of Granada to Ferdinand and Isabel. + +When we walk through the streets of the modern Granada, with its tawdry +churches and commonplace private houses, it does not seem that the city +has gained much by its change of masters. But its decline was not at +least very marked till many years after the Reconquest. The French +invasion, and still more the ruin of the silk industry, completely +undermined the prosperity of the place. During the last century it lost +its rank as the seat of a Captain General. But a new day is dawning for +the proudest city of the Moor, as for all Spain. Granada is content no +longer to brood over its splendid past; indeed, its citizens seem to +prize but lightly the monuments of those days. There is a general +appearance of wealth and elegance about the promenaders on the broad, +well-lighted paseos; and, thanks to the newly introduced manufacturing +industry of beetroot sugar, the Vega has already resumed the flourishing +smiling aspect it wore when a Mohammedan amir called it his and the cry +of the muezzin was heard from a hundred minarets. + + + + +PLAN OF GRANADA + +REFERENCE TO PLAN OF GRANADA + +BUILDINGS AND PLACES + +1. Hospital of San Lázaro. + +2. Church of San Juan de Letran. + +3. Hermitage of Santo Cristo de Yedra. + +4. San Bruno and the Cartuja. + +5. The Sacro Monte. + +6. The Holy Tomb. + +7. Cavalry Barracks, and San Jerónimo. + +8. San Juan de Dios. + +9. San Juan de Dios (Street). + +10. Lunatic Asylum. + +11. Bull Ring. (Plaza de Toros.) + +12. San Ildefonso, and Avenue del Triunfo. + +13. Pay Office. + +14. Gate of Elvira. + +15. Gate of Monaita. + +16. San Andrés. + +17. Children’s Hospital. + +18. Office for Civil Affairs. + +19. Santos Justo and Pastor. + +20. Institute of Music. + +21. Botanical Garden and Nunnery of Piety. + +22. Square of Rull and Godines. + +23. Convent of the Incarnation. + +24. Santa Paula. + +25. Elvira (Street). + +26. San Jerónimo. + +27. Orlando’s Balcony. + +28. San Diego. + +29. San Gregorio. + +30. San Luis. + +31. Arab Ramparts. + +32. San Miguel the Greater. + +33. Gate of the Standards. + +34. El Salvador. + +35. San José. + +36. Convent of the Angel. + +37. Ecclesiastical College. + +38. The Cathedral. + +39. High School and Palace of the Province of Granada. + +40. School of Economics. + +41. Market Place, and Palace of the Archbishop. + +42. Court of First Instance (Plaza Rib-Rambla). + +43. Convent of Augustines and La Magdalena. + +44. House of Grace. + +45. Puentezuelas (Bridge). + +46. Square of Marshal Prim. + +47. Town Hall. + +48. Santa Teresa. + +49. Convent of the Holy Spirit. + +50. Military Office. + +51. Carmelite Convent. + +52. Hospital for Leprosy. + +53. Santa Ana. + +54. Santa Inés. + +55. Convent of the Conception. + +56. San Juan de los Reyes. + +57. Ex-Convent of The Victory. + +58. Watch-tower of the Alhambra (Torre de la Vela). + +59. The Alhambra. + +60. Gate of Las Granadas. + +61. Gate of Judiciary Astrology (Judiciária). + +62. The Generalife. + +63. Gate of Hierro. + +64. San Francisco (formerly Convent of St. Francis). + +65. The Chair of the Moor (Silla del Moro). + +66. The Tower of the Seven Storeys (Alhambra). + +67. The Fountain of Expiation. + +68. Gate of the Sun. + +69. Convent of Santa Catalina. + +70. Ecce Homo. + +71. San Cecilio, and Military Hospital. + +73. Santa Escolástica. + +74. Capuchin Convent and Santa Maria Egipciaca. + +75. San Anton. + +76. Gas Works. + +77. Public Shambles. + +78. San Sebastián and Avenue del Violón. + +79. Las Angustias. + +80. El Salon. + +81. Convent of Santiago. + +82. Museum of the Academy of Fine Arts. + +83. Monument of Mariana. + +84. Artillery Barracks. + +85. Principal Theatre (Plaza de Bailén). + +86. New Square. + +87. Zacatín. + +88. Fish Market. + +89. Church of Santiago. + +90. San Nicolás. + +91. Convent of Tomasas. + +92. Bermeja Towers. + +93. Palace of Charles V. + +94. Gate of the Mills. + +95. San Basil. + +96. Recreation Grounds. + +97. Cemetery. + +98. Convent of San Bernado and Church of San Pedro. + +99. San Bartolomé. + +100. Avenue of San Basil. + +101. San Cristóbal. + +102. Hospital of Corpus Christi. + +103. Santa Isabel la Real, and San Miguel the Less. + +104. Santa Maria (Ancient Mosque of the Alhambra). + +105. San Matías. + +106. Gate of Fajalanza. + +107. Méndez Nuñez (Street). + +[Illustration: GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 1 + +VIEW OF GRANADA, SHOWING THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 2 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 3 + +VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE SACROMONTE ROAD] + +[Illustration: PLATE 4 + +THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE MOOR’S SEAT--LA SILLA DEL MORO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 5 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM SAN NICOLÁS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 6 + +VIEW OF THE GATE OF ELVIRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 7 + +A VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE ALBAICIN (_Sketch_)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 8 + +VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL AND THE ALHAMBRA FROM SAN GERÓNIMO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 9 + +VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA FROM THE CARRERA DE LAS ANGUSTIAS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 10 + +VIEW OF THE ROYAL GATE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 11 + +VIEW FROM THE TOWER IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 12 + +LA PLAZA NUEVA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 13 + +MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS IN THE PASEO DEL SALON; THE SIERRA NEVADA IN THE +DISTANCE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 14 + +THE STREET OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 15 + +ARAB SILK MARKET] + +[Illustration: PLATE 16 + +LA CASA DE LOS TIROS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 17 + +CHURCH OF SANTA ANA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 18 + +LIMOGES ENAMEL TRIPTYCH WHICH BELONGED TO THE GRAN CAPITÁN (PROVINCIAL +MUSEUM, GRANADA)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 19 + +ALTAR IN THE CHURCH OF SAN GERÓNIMO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 20 + +HOUSE IN THE CALLE DE DARRO THE PALACIO DE JUSTICIA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 21 + +THE HOUSE OF CASTRIL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 22 + +TYPICAL GYPSIES AND THEIR QUARTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 23 + +GYPSIES IN FRONT OF THEIR DWELLINGS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 24 + +GYPSY DWELLINGS IN THE SACROMONTE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 25 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE GYPSY QUARTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 26 + +INTERIOR OF A GYPSY’S CAVE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 27 + +GROUP OF GYPSIES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 28 + +A GYPSY FAMILY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 29 + +GYPSIES BIVOUACKING] + +[Illustration: PLATE 30 + +GYPSIES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 31 + +GYPSIES CLIPPING A MULE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 32 + +GYPSIES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 33 + +GYPSIES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 34 + +GYPSY DANCE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 35 + +INTERIOR OF THE SACRISTY OF THE CARTUJA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 36 + +INTERIOR OF THE CARTUJA. THE SACRISTY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 37 + +INTERIOR OF THE CARTUJA CHURCH] + +[Illustration: PLATE 38 + +SAINT BRUNO, BY ALONSO CANO, AT THE CARTHUSIAN MONASTERY OF GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 39 + +EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 40 + +THE GATE OF PARDON AND THE EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 41 + +FAÇADE OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 42 + +EXTERIOR GATE OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 43 + +DETAIL IN THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 44 + +ANCIENT GOTHIC ENTRANCE TO THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 45 + +GENERAL EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL, UPPER PART] + +[Illustration: PLATE 46 + +GENERAL EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 47 + +EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL + +FAÇADE OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 48 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 49 + +THE CATHEDRAL. GENERAL VIEW OF THE INTERIOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 50 + +THE CATHEDRAL. VIEW OF THE PRINCIPAL NAVE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 51 + +THE HIGH ALTAR IN THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 52 + +ALTAR-PIECE IN THE ROYAL CHAPEL, BY F. DE BORGOÑA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 53 + +THE CATHEDRAL. BOABDIL GIVING UP THE KEYS OF GRANADA TO THE CATHOLIC +SOVEREIGNS. FRAGMENT OF THE ALTAR-PIECE IN THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 54 + +THE INNER CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 55 + +THE CATHEDRAL. TOMBS OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS IN THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 56 + +VIEW OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL AND TOMBS OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS, BY P. +GONZALVO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 57 + +ROYAL CHAPEL. TOMBS OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 58 + +VAULT OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS AT GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 59 + +TOMBS OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA, DOÑA JUANA AND PHILIP THE HANDSOME] + +[Illustration: PLATE 60 + +TOMBS OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA, DOÑA JUANA AND PHILIP THE HANDSOME] + +[Illustration: PLATE 61 + +SCEPTRE, CROWN, SWORD, MASS-BOOK, AND COFFER OF THE CATHOLIC +SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 62 + +RELICS OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 63 + +ROYAL CHAPEL. STATUE OF QUEEN ISABELLA THE CATHOLIC] + +[Illustration: PLATE 64 + +STATUE OF ISABELLA THE CATHOLIC] + +[Illustration: PLATE 65 + +CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUEL IN THE CATHEDRAL, MARBLE SCULPTURE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 66 + +Plan of the Alhambra Palace at Granada] + +[Illustration: PLATE 67 + +GENERAL PLAN OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 68 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM SAN NICOLÁS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 69 + +THE RED TOWERS FROM THE RAMPARTS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 70 + +VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE SACROMONTE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 71 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA AND ALGIBILLO PROMENADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 72 + +VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE CUESTA DEL CHAPIZ] + +[Illustration: PLATE 73 + +THE RED TOWERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 74 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 75 + +THE TOWER OF THE PEAKS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 76 + +THE INFANTAS’ TOWER AND CAPTIVE’S TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 77 + +VIEW OF THE WATCH TOWER AND GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 78 + +VIEW OF THE RAMPARTS AND THE WATCH TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 79 + +THE AQUEDUCT TOWER AND THE AQUEDUCT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 80 + +THE GATE OF JUSTICE. DETAIL OF A DOOR IN THE COURT OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 81 + +THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 82 + +GRANADA, FROM THE HOMAGE TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 83 + +“THE QUEEN’S DRESSING-ROOM,” AT THE SUMMIT OF THE MIHRAB TOWER, WITH +DISTANT VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 84 + +THE GATE OF JUSTICE, ERECTED BY YUSUF I] + +[Illustration: PLATE 85 + +THE TOWER OF THE PEAKS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 86 + +THE CAPTIVE’S TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 87 + +EXTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE, PRIVATE PROPERTY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 88 + +TOWER OF THE AQUEDUCT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 89 + +ASCENT TO THE ALHAMBRA BY THE CUESTA DEL REY CHICO--LESSER KING HILL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 90 + +THE LADIES’ TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 91 + +PART OF THE ALHAMBRA, EXTERIOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 92 + +THE HOMAGE TOWER. ANCIENT ARAB RUINS IN THE ALCAZÁBA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 93 + +GATE OF JUSTICE. THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 94 + +GATE OF JUSTICE (_Sketch_)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 95 + +THE GATE OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 96 + +PLAN, HEIGHT AND DETAILS OF THE GATE OF THE LAW COMMONLY CALLED OF +JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 97 + +ELEVATION OF THE ANCIENT GATE OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 98 + +PORTAL COMMONLY CALLED THE GATE OF THE VINE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 99 + +PORCH OF THE GATE OF JUDGMENT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 100 + +ELEVATION OF THE WINE GATE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 101 + +TRANSVERSE SECTION OF PART OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 102 + +SECTION SHOWING] + +[Illustration: PLATE 103 + +HEIGHTS OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 104 + +PROMENADES AT THE ENTRANCE TO ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 105 + +THE HALL OF JUSTICE AND COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 106 + +HALL OF JUSTICE. LEFT SIDE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 107 + +HALL OF JUSTICE, SHOWING FOUNTAIN OF COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 108 + +SECTION OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE (LOOKING EAST)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 109 + +SECTION OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE (LOOKING TOWARDS THE COURT OF THE +LIONS)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 110 + +VERTICAL SECTION OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 111 + +DETAILS OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 112 + +PLAN AND WINDOW OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 113 + +PAINTING ON THE CEILING OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE. No. 1] + +[Illustration: PLATE 114 + +PAINTING ON THE CEILING OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE. No. 3] + +[Illustration: PLATE 115 + +PART OF PICTURE IN THE HALL OF JUSTICE--THE MOOR’S RETURN FROM HUNTING] + +[Illustration: PLATE 116 + +HALL OF JUSTICE--THE DEATH OF THE LION AT THE HANDS OF A CHRISTIAN +KNIGHT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 117 + +PART OF PICTURE IN THE HALL OF JUSTICE REPRESENTING A CHRISTIAN KNIGHT +RESCUING A MAIDEN FROM A WICKED MAGICIAN, OR WILD-MAN-O’-THE-WOODS. THE +CHRISTIAN KNIGHT IS, IN TURN, SLAIN BY A MOORISH WARRIOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 118 + +PART OF PICTURE IN HALL OF JUSTICE--MOORISH HUNTSMAN SLAYING THE WILD +BOAR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 119 + +HALL OF JUSTICE--THREE FIGURES FROM THE PICTURE OF THE MOORISH +TRIBUNAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 120 + +THE MOSQUE AND GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 121 + +COURT OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 122 + +FAÇADE OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 123 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 124 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 125 + +ELEVATION OF THE PORTICO ADJACENT TO THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 126 + +DETAIL OF THE ENTRANCE DOOR OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 127 + +AN ARCHED WINDOW OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 128 + +AN ARCHED WINDOW OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 129 + +THE KORAN RECESS IN THE MOSQUE, THE SCENE OF YUSUF’S ASSASSINATION] + +[Illustration: PLATE 130 + +THE MOSQUE FROM KORAN RECESS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 131 + +DETAILS OF ORNAMENT OF KORAN RECESS NEAR THE ENTRANCE DOOR OF THE +MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 132 + +CORNICE AND WINDOW IN THE FAÇADE OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 133 + +VERTICAL SECTION OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 134 + +ARAB LAMP IN MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 135 + +DETAILS OF THE FRONT OF THE MOSQUE OF THE HAREM] + +[Illustration: PLATE 136 + +DETAILS OF ORNAMENT IN THE COURT OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 137 + +DETAILS IN THE COURT OF THE MOSQUE, EASTERN FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 138 + +ORNAMENT IN PANELS, COURT OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 139 + +WINDOW IN THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 140 + +ENTRANCE TO THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 141 + +HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 142 + +SECTION AND ELEVATION OF THE INTERIOR OF THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 143 + +ENCAUSTIC-TILE WORK OF THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 144 + +ORNAMENT IN PANELS, HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 145 + +INSCRIPTIONS IN THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 146 + +KUFIC INSCRIPTIONS, HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 147 + +“WA LA GHÁLIB ILA ALÁ!”--THERE IS NO CONQUEROR BUT GOD!--THE FAMOUS +MOTTO OF MOHAMMED I. AND HIS SUCCESSORS. AN EXAMPLE FROM THE HALL OF +AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 148 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE TEMPLETE POMIENTE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 149 + +ENTRANCE TO THE COURT OF THE LIONS THROUGH THE POMIENTE CORNER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 150 + +NORTH GALLERY AND FAÇADE OF THE HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 151 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE POMIENTE CORNER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 152 + +VIEW IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 153 + +VIEW IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 154 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 155 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 156 + +COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 157 + +NORTH GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 158 + +SECTION, COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 159 + +PAVILION IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 160 + +FOUNTAIN AND EAST TEMPLE IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 161 + +HALL OF JUSTICE AND COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 162 + +ANGLE IN THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 163 + +HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 164 + +CEILING OF THE HALL OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 165 + +THE MOSQUE, AND VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 166 + +EXTERIOR OF A WINDOW IN THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 167 + +THE MOSQUE, AND VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 168 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 169 + +COURT OF THE MOSQUE, WEST FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 170 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE, CONVERTED INTO A ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH] + +[Illustration: PLATE 171 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE, CONVERTED INTO A ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH] + +[Illustration: PLATE 172 + +JALOUSIES IN THE COURT OF THE MOSQUE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 173 + +ENTRANCE TO THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 174 + +BALCONY IN THE HALL OF AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 175 + +DETAIL OF THE HALL OF THE ARCHED WINDOWS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 176 + +DETAIL IN THE HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 177 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 178 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 179 + +THE FOUNTAIN AND WEST TEMPLE OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 180 + +ELEVATION OF THE FOUNTAIN OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 181 + +THE FOUNTAIN OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS, WITH DETAILS OF THE ORNAMENT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 182 + +PLAN OF THE BASIN OF THE FOUNTAIN IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 183 + +SECTION OF THE PAVILION IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 184 + +SECTION OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS, AND] + +[Illustration: PLATE 185 + +SECTION OF PART OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 186 + +CAPITAL IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS, WITH A SCALE OF ONE METRE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 187 + +DETAILS OF THE CENTRE ARCADE OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 188 + +FRIEZE OVER COLUMNS, COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 189 + +DETAIL OF THE CENTRAL ARCH IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 190 + +THE FIRST SIX VERSES OF THE INSCRIPTION AROUND THE BASIN OF THE FOUNTAIN +OF THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 191 + +ENTABLATURE IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 192 + +CUPOLA OF THE PAVILION IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 193 + +ENTRANCE TO THE COURT OF THE LIONS + +LITTLE TEMPLE, THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 194 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 195 + +THE LITTLE TEMPLE + +THE FOUNTAIN + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 196 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 197 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS, WEST ANGLE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 198 + +MOROCCO EMBASSY, DECEMBER, 1885] + +[Illustration: PLATE 199 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE WEST TEMPLE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 200 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE WEST TEMPLE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 201 + +WEST GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 202 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS, FAÇADE OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 203 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS, LEFT-HAND ANGLE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 204 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS, FAÇADE OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 205 + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS FROM THE ENTRANCE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 206 + +DETAIL OF THE ENTRANCE TO THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 207 + +DETAIL IN THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 208 + +MOSAICS, NORTH SIDE + +MOSAICS, SOUTH SIDE + +THE COURT OF THE LIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 209 + +HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 210 + +HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 211 + +HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 212 + +HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 213 + +WOODEN DOORS, HALL OF THE ABENCERRAGES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 214 + +GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 215 + +COURT OF THE MYRTLES; OR, OF THE FISH-POND. FAÇADE OF THE HALL OF +AMBASSADORS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 216 + +COURT OF THE MYRTLES; OR, OF THE FISH-POND] + +[Illustration: PLATE 217 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE COURT OF THE MYRTLES; OR, OF THE FISH-POND] + +[Illustration: PLATE 218 + +NORTH SIDE OF THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 219 + +ENTRANCE TO THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 220 + +GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE MYRTLES; OR, OF THE FISH-POND] + +[Illustration: PLATE 221 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE COURT OF THE MYRTLES AND COMARES TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 222 + +COURT OF THE MYRTLES, EAST FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 223 + +DETAIL IN THE COURT OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 224 + +COURT OF THE MYRTLES, EAST FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 225 + +EXTERIOR OF THE GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE +MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 226 + +THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 227 + +ORNAMENT IN THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 228 + +COURT OF THE MYRTLES; OR, OF THE FISH-POND FORMED BY YUSÚF I.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 229 + +THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES + +GALLERY IN THE COURT OF THE FISH-POND; OR, OF THE MYRTLES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 230 + +THE HALL OF THE BATHS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 231 + +THE SULTAN’S BATH] + +[Illustration: PLATE 232 + +THE SULTANA’S BATH] + +[Illustration: PLATE 233 + +THE BATHS, HALL OF REPOSE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 234 + +CHAMBER OF REPOSE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 235 + +SECTION OF THE HALL OF THE BATHS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 236 + +LONGITUDINAL SECTION THROUGH THE BATHS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 237 + +GROUND PLAN OF THE BATHS IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 238 + +CEILING OF THE HALL OF THE BATHS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 239 + +PLAN AND SECTION OF THE GREAT CISTERN IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 240 + +A SECTION OF THE BATHS IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 241 + +CHAMBER OF REPOSE + +SULTAN’S BATH CONSTRUCTED BY YUSÚF I.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 242 + +INTERIOR OF THE INFANTAS’ TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 243 + +SECTIONS OF THE INFANTAS’ TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 244 + +INTERIOR OF THE TOWER OF THE INFANTAS, UPPER PART] + +[Illustration: PLATE 245 + +BALCONY OF THE “CAPTIVE” (ISABEL DE SOLIS), OVERLOOKING THE VEGA, OR +PLAIN, OF GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 246 + +ALCOVE OF THE “CAPTIVE” (ISABEL DE SOLIS)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 247 + +INTERIOR OF THE TOWER OF THE “CAPTIVE” (ISABEL DE SOLIS)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 248 + +THE “CAPTIVE’S” TOWER FROM THE ENTRANCE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 249 + +INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE + +ROOM IN THE “CAPTIVE’S” TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 250 + +HALL OF JUSTICE + +BATHS, THE CHAMBER OF REPOSE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 251 + +BALCONY OF THE FAVOURITE, “LINDARAJA”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 252 + +ALCOVE IN THE “LINDARAJA” APARTMENTS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 253 + +GARDEN OF “LINDARAJA,” AND THE APARTMENTS TRADITIONALLY SAID TO HAVE +BEEN OCCUPIED BY “LINDARAJA” A FAVOURITE SULTANA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 254 + +DETAIL, INTERIOR OF THE BALCONY OF “LINDARAJA”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 255 + +DETAIL, LOWER PART OF THE BALCONY OF “LINDARAJA”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 256 + +DETAIL OF THE CENTRAL PART OF THE BALCONY OF “LINDARAJA”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 257 + +THE QUEEN’S BOUDOIR AND DISTANT VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 258 + +THE QUEEN’S BOUDOIR AND VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 259 + +THE QUEEN’S BOUDOIR AND OLD ALBAICIN QUARTER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 260 + +THE QUEEN’S BOUDOIR AND DEFILE OF THE DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 261 + +LINDARAJA’S GARDEN AND THE APARTMENTS IN WHICH WASHINGTON IRVING +STAYED] + +[Illustration: PLATE 262 + +ANGLE OF THE BALCONY OF LINDARAJA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 263 + +BALCONY OF THE FAVOURITE LINDARAJA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 264 + +INTERIOR OF THE TOWER OF THE CAPTIVE, ISABEL DE SOLIS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 265 + +EXTERIOR OF THE CAPTIVE’S TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 266 + +THE TOWER OF THE CAPTIVE, ISABEL DE SOLIS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 267 + +INTERIOR OF THE INFANTAS’ TOWER, UPPER PART] + +[Illustration: PLATE 268 + +INTERIOR OF THE INFANTAS’ TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 269 + +DETAIL OF THE UPPER PART OF THE BALCONY OF LINDARAJA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 270 + +HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 271 + +ENTRANCE TO THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 272 + +INTERIOR OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 273 + +HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 274 + +HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 275 + +TEMPLE AND FAÇADE OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 276 + +VIEW IN THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 277 + +HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS FROM THE ENTRANCE DOOR, BUILT BY YÚSUF I.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 278 + +UPPER BALCONY OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 279 + +HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS FROM THE ENTRANCE DOOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 280 + +CEILING OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 281 + +DETAIL OF THE UPPER STORY, HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 282 + +DETAIL OF THE LATERAL WINDOWS OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 283 + +DETAIL IN THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 284 + +PANEL, ORNAMENT, AND INSCRIPTIONS IN THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 285 + +INSCRIPTION IN THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 286 + +FRIEZE IN THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 287 + +PANEL ON JAMBS OF DOORWAYS, HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 288 + +DETAILS OF THE GLAZED TILES IN THE DADO OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 289 + +BAND ROUND PANELS IN WINDOWS, HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 290 + +MOSAIC IN DADO OF RECESS + +MOSAIC IN DADO OF THE ENTRANCE TO THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 291 + +MOSAIC IN DADO OF HALL OF AMBASSADORS + +MOSAIC IN DADO OF THE HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 292 + +WINE GATE. WEST FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 293 + +DETAIL OF THE ONLY ANCIENT “JALOUSIE” REMAINING IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 294 + +EL JARRO. ARAB VASE NOW IN THE MUSEUM OF THE PALACE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 295 + +EL JARRO. THE ARABIAN VASE AND NICHE IN WHICH IT FORMERLY STOOD, HALL OF +THE TWO SISTERS. THE VASE, CONSIDERABLY MUTILATED, IS NOW IN THE MUSEUM +OF THE PALACE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 296 + +AN ARAB VASE OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY IN THE NICHE WHEREIN IT STOOD +UNTIL THE YEAR 1837] + +[Illustration: PLATE 297 + +SWORD OF THE LAST MOORISH KING OF GRANADA, COMMONLY CALLED “THE SWORD OF +BOABDIL”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 298 + +THE SURRENDER OF GRANADA BY BOABDIL TO FERDINAND AND ISABELLA, JANUARY +2, 1492] + +[Illustration: PLATE 299 + +GOLD COIN (OBVERSE AND REVERSE) OF MOHAMMED I., THE FOUNDER OF THE +ALHAMBRA, WHO REIGNED 1232-1272 A.D.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 300 + +DETAILS AND INSCRIPTIONS, AND ARABIAN CAPITALS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 301 + +THE GOTHIC INSCRIPTION SET UP IN THE ALHAMBRA BY THE COUNT OF TENDILLA, +TO COMMEMORATE THE SURRENDER OF THE FORTRESS IN 1492] + +[Illustration: PLATE 302 + +MOSAIC PAVEMENT IN THE QUEEN’S DRESSING ROOM (TOCADOR DE LA REYNA) + +MOSAIC, FROM A FRAGMENT IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 303 + +THE HOUSE OF CARBON] + +[Illustration: PLATE 304 + +THE ANCIENT GRANARY MARKET AND HOUSE OF CARBON] + +[Illustration: PLATE 305 + +ELEVATION OF THE CASA DEL CARBON, OR HOUSE OF CARBON, ONCE KNOWN AS THE +HOUSE OF THE WEATHERCOCK] + +[Illustration: PLATE 306 + +COURTYARD OF A MOORISH HOUSE IN THE ALBAICIN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 307 + +INTERIOR OF AN ARAB HOUSE IN THE ALBAICIN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 308 + +THE PROCLAMATION OF BOABDIL. BY PLÁCIDO FRANCES + +(NATIONAL EXHIBITION OF BEAUX ARTS, 1884)] + +[Illustration: PLATE 309 + +THE AUTHOR IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 310 + +CORNICES, CAPITALS, AND COLUMNS IN THE ALHAMBRA. THE SPLENDID CORNICE AT +THE RIGHT-HAND TOP CORNER IS FROM THE LOGGIA OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 311 + +MISCELLANEOUS ORNAMENT IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 312 + +THE FABLE OF JUPITER AND LEDA IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 313 + +BAS-RELIEF, NOW IN THE MUSEUM OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 314 + +ARABIAN SWORD] + +[Illustration: PLATE 315 + +CAPITALS FROM THE COURTS AND HALLS OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 316 + +ENCAUSTIC-TILE WORK IN THE ROYAL ROOM OF SANTO DOMINGO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 317 + +VARIOUS MOSAICS FROM THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 318 + +INSCRIPTIONS IN THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 319 + +PLAN OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V., AND OF THE SUBTERRANEAN VAULTS OF THE +ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 320 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE HOMAGE TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 321 + +ANCIENT CISTERN. EARLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 322 + +THE ALHAMBRA + +_Specially drawn for The Spanish Series_] + +[Illustration: PLATE 323 + +PART OF EXTERIOR OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 324 + +ELEVATION OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 325 + +SECTION OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 326 + +FOUNTAIN OF THE EMPEROR CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 327 + +VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE HOMAGE TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 328 + +INTERIOR OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 329 + +DOORWAY OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 330 + +BAS-RELIEF IN THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 331 + +PORCH OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V. FROM THE WEST] + +[Illustration: PLATE 332 + +ROMAN COURT, PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 333 + +GROUND PLAN OF THE GENERALIFE AT GRANADA + +A. Advanced parts +B. The Inner Gallery, commanding a view of the Gardens +C, C, C, C. Terraces and Aqueducts +D, D, D, E, E. The surrounding country +] + +[Illustration: PLATE 334 + +THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 335 + +THE PRINCIPAL COURT OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 336 + +THE COURT OF THE FISH POND IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 337 + +PROMENADES AND GARDENS OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 338 + +THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 339 + +FRONT VIEW OF THE PORTICO OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 340 + +TRANSVERSE SECTION OF THE ROYAL VILLA OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 341 + +GALLERY IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 342 + +THE GENERALIFE + +GALLERY IN THE ACEQUIA COURT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 343 + +THE GENERALIFE + +ENTRANCE TO THE PORTRAIT GALLERY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 344 + +GARDEN OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 345 + +ELEVATION OF THE PORTICO OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 346 + +THE ACEQUIA COURT IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 347 + +A CORNER OF THE ACEQUIA COURT IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 348 + +CYPRESS COURT + +A CORNER IN THE ACEQUIA COURT] + +[Illustration: PLATE 349 + +THE CYPRESS OF THE SULTANA IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 350 + +A CEILING IN THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 351 + +THE GENERALIFE. THE ACEQUIA COURT FROM THE MAIN ENTRANCE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 352 + +THE GENERALIFE. THE ACEQUIA COURT FROM THE INTERIOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 353 + +EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 354 + +ENTRANCE TO THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 355 + +THE GENERALIFE. COURT OF THE SULTANA’S CYPRESS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 356 + +THE GENERALIFE. THE ACEQUIA COURT FROM THE INTERIOR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 357 + +SOUTH FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 358 + +BAS-RELIEF IN THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 359 + +BAS-RELIEF IN THE PALACE OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 360 + +GATE OF THE GRANADAS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 361 + +PROMENADES AND HOTELS OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 362 + +THE GATE OF JUSTICE AND FOUNTAIN OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 363 + +ENVIRONS OF THE ALHAMBRA. FOUNTAIN OF CHARLES V.] + +[Illustration: PLATE 364 + +GATE OF JUSTICE. PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE TO THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 365 + +GATE OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 366 + +GATE OF THE VINE. EAST FAÇADE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 367 + +ENVIRONS OF THE ALHAMBRA. TOWER OF THE PEAKS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 368 + +TOWER OF THE PEAKS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 369 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE SILLA DEL MORO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 370 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE GIPSY QUARTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 371 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE GENERALIFE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 372 + +VIEW OF GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE SACROMONTE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 373 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM ST. NICHOLAS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 374 + +THE WATCH TOWER, THE CATHEDRAL, AND GRANADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 375 + +VILLAS ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 376 + +A VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 377 + +VILLAS ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 378 + +THE WATCH TOWER AND CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 379 + +THE RED TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 380 + +THE HOMAGE TOWER AND GIPSY QUARTERS. EXTERIOR OF THEIR CAVES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 381 + +CARRERA DEL RIO DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 382 + +THE GATE OF ELVIRA. THE OLD ENTRANCE TO THE FORTIFICATIONS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 383 + +WASHING PLACE IN THE PUERTA DEL SOL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 384 + +COURTYARD OF AN ARAB HOUSE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 385 + +A MOORISH ARCHWAY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 386 + +INTERIOR OF AN OLD HOUSE IN THE CALLE DEL HORNO DE ORO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 387 + +INTERIOR OF AN OLD HOUSE IN THE ALBAICIN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 388 + +THE CATHEDRAL AND GENERAL VIEW] + +[Illustration: PLATE 389 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 390 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 391 + +ENTRANCE TO THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 392 + +EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 393 + +DETAIL OF THE EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 394 + +EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 395 + +EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 396 + +EXTERIOR OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 397 + +EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL. THE GATE OF PARDON] + +[Illustration: PLATE 398 + +GOTHIC PINNACLE ON THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 399 + +THE CATHEDRAL, VIEW FROM THE CHOIR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 400 + +THE CATHEDRAL. GENERAL VIEW OF THE CHANCEL AND HIGH ALTAR] + +[Illustration: PLATE 401 + +BAS RELIEF IN THE ALTAR-PIECE OF THE ROYAL CHAPEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 402 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE CHANCEL IN THE CATHEDRAL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 403 + +THE ROYAL CHAPEL. SEPULCHRE OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 404 + +ROYAL CHAPEL. DETAIL OF THE SEPULCHRE OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 405 + +THE ROYAL CHAPEL. SCULPTURE OF KING FERDINAND THE CATHOLIC] + +[Illustration: PLATE 406 + +SEPULCHRE OF FERDINAND] + +[Illustration: PLATE 407 + +SEPULCHRE OF ISABELLA THE CATHOLIC] + +[Illustration: PLATE 408 + +PORTAL OF THE CHURCH OF SAN JUAN DE DIO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 409 + +SEPULCHRE OF ALONSO CANO IN SAN GERONIMO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 410 + +HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST] + +[Illustration: PLATE 411 + +HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST] + +[Illustration: PLATE 412 + +HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST] + +[Illustration: PLATE 413 + +EXTERIOR OF THE CARTUJA MONASTERY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 414 + +SACRISTY IN THE CARTUJA, LEFT SIDE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 415 + +SACRISTY IN THE CARTUJA, RIGHT SIDE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 416 + +CARTUJA. SANTO SANTORUM] + +[Illustration: PLATE 417 + +CARTUJA. DETAIL OF THE CUPBOARDS IN THE SACRISTY] + +[Illustration: PLATE 418 + +ALTARS IN THE CARTUJA. PICTURES BY SANCHEZ Y COTÁN, A MONK OF THE +ORDER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 419 + +CARTUJA. THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. BY MURILLO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 420 + +CARTUJA. THE VIRGIN OF THE ROSARY. BY MURILLO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 421 + +CARTUJA. ST. JOSEPH AND THE CHILD, SCULPTURE BY ALONSO CAÑO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 422 + +CARTUJA. ST. MARY MAGDALENE, SCULPTURE BY ALONSO CAÑO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 423 + +CARTUJA. HORSEMEN HANGING MARTYRS. BY SANCHEZ COTÁN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 424 + +CARTUJA. THE BAPTISM OF OUR LORD. BY SANCHEZ COTÁN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 425 + +CARTUJA. THE HOLY FAMILY. BY SANCHEZ COTÁN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 426 + +THE CRUCIFIXION OF OUR LORD. BY MORALES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 427 + +THE CONCEPTION OF OUR LADY. BY MORALES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 428 + +THE GIPSY QUARTERS. EXTERIOR OF THE CAVES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 429 + +THE GIPSY QUARTERS. AN “AT HOME”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 430 + +GIPSY DANCE IN THEIR QUARTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 431 + +GIPSY TYPES AT THE DOORS OF THEIR CAVES] + +[Illustration: PLATE 432 + +GIPSY DANCE IN THEIR QUARTERS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 433 + +GIPSY DANCERS AND THEIR CAPTAIN, J. AMAYA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 434 + +BRIDGE OF THE GENIL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 435 + +GENERAL VIEW] + +[Illustration: PLATE 436 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE OLD ALBAICIN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 437 + +GENERAL VIEW FROM THE WATCH TOWER] + +[Illustration: PLATE 438 + +OLD ARAB PALACE. NOW THE PROPERTY OF A SPANISH NOBLEMAN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 439 + +THE OLD TOWN HALL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 440 + +THE ROYAL GATE AND STREET OF THE CATHOLIC SOVEREIGNS] + +[Illustration: PLATE 441 + +MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS IN THE PASEO DEL SALÓN] + +[Illustration: PLATE 442 + +THE RAW SILK MARKET] + +[Illustration: PLATE 443 + +THE RAW SILK MARKET. ANCIENT ARAB SILK MARKET] + +[Illustration: PLATE 444 + +EXTERIOR OF AN OLD HOUSE, CUESTA DEL PESCADO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 445 + +THE COURT OF JUSTICE] + +[Illustration: PLATE 446 + +CARRERA DEL DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 447 + +MARKET AND GIPSY FAIR IN THE TRIUNFO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 448 + +CALLE DE SAN ANTON] + +[Illustration: PLATE 449 + +ANTEQUERUELA QUARTER, SIERRA NEVADA, AND THE “LAST SIGH OF THE MOOR”] + +[Illustration: PLATE 450 + +CARRERA DE GENIL AND VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 451 + +PLAZA DE MARIANA PINEDA, ARAB HOUSE, AND VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 452 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA AND OF THE SIERRA NEVADA FROM ST. MICHAEL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 453 + +HUÉTOR HIGH ROAD AND VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 454 + +VILLAS ON THE BORDERS OF THE RIVER DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 455 + +DEFILE OF THE DARRO] + +[Illustration: PLATE 456 + +THE GREEN BRIDGE AND VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 457 + +VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA] + +[Illustration: PLATE 458 + +GENERAL VIEW OF THE SIERRA NEVADA AND THE RIVER GENIL] + +[Illustration: PLATE 459 + +GRANADA + +_Specially drawn for The Spanish Series_] + +[Illustration: PLATE 460 + +ARMS OF GRANADA] + +THE + +SPANISH SERIES + +Edited by ALBERT F. CALVERT + + +A new and important series of volumes, dealing with Spain in its various +aspects, its history, its cities and monuments. Each volume will be +complete in itself in a uniform binding, and the number and excellence +of the reproductions from pictures will justify the claim that these +books comprise the most copiously illustrated series that has yet been +issued, some volumes having over 300 pages of reproductions of pictures, +etc. + + +Crown 8vo Price 3/6 net + + 1 GOYA with 600 illustrations + 2 TOLEDO ” 510 ” + 3 MADRID ” 450 ” + 4 SEVILLE ” 300 ” + 5 MURILLO ” 165 ” + 6 CORDOVA ” 160 ” + 7 EL GRECO ” 140 ” + 8 VELAZQUEZ ” 142 ” + 9 THE PRADO ” 223 ” +10 THE ESCORIAL ” 278 ” +11 ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN ” 200 ” +12 GRANADA AND ALHAMBRA ” 460 ” +13 SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR ” 386 ” +14 LEON, BURGOS AND SALAMANCA ” 462 ” +15 VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, + ZAMORA, AVILA AND ZARAGOZA ” 390 ” + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +MURILLO + +A BIOGRAPHY AND APPRECIATION. ILLUSTRATED BY OVER 165 REPRODUCTIONS FROM +PHOTOGRAPHS OF HIS MOST CELEBRATED PICTURES + + +While the names of Murillo and Velazquez are inseparably linked in the +history of Art as Spain’s immortal contribution to the small band of +world-painters, the great Court-Painter to Philip IV. has ever received +the lion’s share of public attention. Many learned and critical works +have been written about Murillo, but whereas Velazquez has been +familiarised to the general reader by the aid of small, popular +biographies, the niche is still empty which it is hoped that this book +will fill. + +In this volume the attempt has been made to show the painter’s art in +its relation to the religious feeling of the age in which he lived, and +his own feeling towards his art. Murillo was the product of his +religious era, and of his native province, Andalusia. To Europe in his +lifetime he signified little or nothing. He painted to the order of the +religious houses in his immediate vicinity; his works were immured in +local monasteries and cathedrals, and, passing immediately out of +circulation, were forgotten or never known. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE ROYAL ARMOURY AT MADRID. +ILLUSTRATED WITH 386 REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS. DEDICATED BY +SPECIAL PERMISSION TO H.M. QUEEN MARIA CRISTINA OF SPAIN + + +Although several valuable and voluminous catalogues of the Spanish Royal +Armoury have, from time to time, been compiled, this “finest collection +of armour in the world” has been subjected so often to the disturbing +influences of fire, removal, and re-arrangement, that no hand catalogue +of the Museum is available, and this book has been designed to serve +both as a historical souvenir of the institution and a record of its +treasures. + +The various exhibits with which the writer illustrates his narrative are +reproduced to the number of nearly 400 on art paper, and the selection +of weapons and armour has been made with a view not only to render the +series interesting to the general reader, but to present a useful text +book for the guidance of artists, sculptors, antiquaries, costumiers, +and all who are engaged in the reproduction or representation of +European armoury. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +THE ESCORIAL + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE SPANISH ROYAL PALACE, +MONASTERY AND MAUSOLEUM. ILLUSTRATED WITH PLANS AND 278 REPRODUCTIONS +FROM PICTURES AND PHOTOGRAPHS + + +The Royal Palace, Monastery, and Mausoleum of El Escorial, which rears +its gaunt, grey walls in one of the bleakest but most imposing districts +in the whole of Spain, was erected to commemorate a victory over the +French in 1557. It was occupied and pillaged by the French two and +a-half centuries later, and twice it has been greatly diminished by +fire; but it remains to-day, not only the incarnate expression of the +fanatic religious character and political genius of Philip II., but the +greatest mass of wrought granite which exists on earth, the leviathan of +architecture, the eighth wonder of the world. + +In the text of this book the author has endeavoured to reconstitute the +glories and tragedies of the living past of the Escorial, and to +represent the wonders of the stupendous edifice by reproductions of over +two hundred and seventy of the finest photographs and pictures +obtainable. Both as a review and a pictorial record it is hoped that the +work will make a wide appeal among all who are interested in the +history, the architecture, and the art of Spain. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +TOLEDO + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE “CITY OF GENERATIONS,” WITH +510 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +The origin of Imperial Toledo, “the crown of Spain, the light of the +world, free from the time of the mighty Goths,” is lost in the +impenetrable mists of antiquity. Mighty, unchangeable, invincible, the +city has been described by Wörmann as “a gigantic open-air museum of the +architectural history of early Spain, arranged upon a lofty and +conspicuous table of rock.” + +But while some writers have declared that Toledo is a theatre with the +actors gone and only the scenery left, the author does not share the +opinion. He believes that the power and virility upon which Spain built +up her greatness is reasserting itself. The machinery of the theatre of +Toledo is rusty, the pulleys are jammed from long disuse, but the +curtain is rising steadily if slowly, and already can be heard the +tuning-up of fiddles in its ancient orchestra. + +In this belief the author of this volume has not only set forth the +story of Toledo’s former greatness, but has endeavoured to place before +his readers a panorama of the city as it appears to-day, and to show +cause for his faith in the greatness of the Toledo of the future. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +SEVILLE + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT, WITH 300 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Seville, which has its place in mythology as the creation of Hercules, +and was more probably founded by the Phœnicians, which became +magnificent under the Roman rule, was made the capital of the Goths, +became the centre of Moslem power and splendour, and fell before the +military prowess of St. Ferdinand, is still the Queen of Andalusia, the +foster-mother of Velazquez and Murillo, the city of poets and pageantry +and love. + +Seville is always gay, and responsive and fascinating to the receptive +visitor, and all sorts of people go there with all sorts of motives. The +artist repairs to the Andalusian city to fill his portfolio; the lover +of art makes the pilgrimage to study Murillo in all his glory. The +seasons of the Church attract thousands from reasons of devotion or +curiosity. And of all these myriad visitors, who go with their minds +full of preconceived notions, not one has yet confessed to being +disappointed in Seville. + +The author has here attempted to convey in the illustrations an +impression of this laughing city where all is gaiety and mirth and +ever-blossoming roses, where the people pursue pleasure as the serious +business of life in an atmosphere of exhilarating enjoyment. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +THE PRADO + +A GUIDE AND HANDBOOK TO THE ROYAL PICTURE GALLERY OF MADRID. ILLUSTRATED +WITH 221 REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OF OLD MASTERS. DEDICATED BY +SPECIAL PERMISSION TO H.R.H. PRINCESS HENRY OF BATTENBERG + + +This volume is an attempt to supplement the accurate but formal notes +contained in the official catalogue of a picture gallery which is +considered the finest in the world. It has been said that the day one +enters the Prado for the first time is an important event like marriage, +the birth of a child, or the coming into an inheritance; an experience +of which one feels the effects to the day of one’s death. + +The excellence of the Madrid gallery is the excellence of exclusion; it +is a collection of magnificent gems. Here one becomes conscious of a +fresh power in Murillo, and is amazed anew by the astonishing apparition +of Velazquez; here is, in truth, a rivalry of miracles of art. + +The task of selecting pictures for reproduction from what is perhaps the +most splendid gallery of old masters in existence, was one of no little +difficulty, but it is believed that the collection is representative, +and that the letterpress will form a serviceable companion to the +visitor to The Prado. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA + +A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE MOSLEM RULE IN SPAIN, TOGETHER WITH A PARTICULAR +ACCOUNT OF THE CONSTRUCTION, THE ARCHITECTURE, AND THE DECORATION OF THE +MOORISH PALACE, WITH 460 ILLUSTRATIONS. DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION +TO H.I.M. THE EMPRESS EUGÉNIE + + +This volume is the third and abridged edition of a work which the author +was inspired to undertake by the surpassing loveliness of the Alhambra, +and by his disappointment in the discovery that no such thing as an even +moderately adequate illustrated souvenir of “this glorious sanctuary of +Spain” was obtainable. Keenly conscious of the want himself, he essayed +to supply it, and the result is a volume that has been acclaimed with +enthusiasm alike by critics, artists, architects, and archæologists. + +In his preface to the first edition, Mr. Calvert wrote: “The Alhambra +may be likened to an exquisite opera which can only be appreciated to +the full when one is under the spell of its magic influence. But as the +witchery of an inspired score can be recalled by the sound of an air +whistled in the street, so--it is my hope--the pale ghost of the Moorish +fairy-land may live again in the memories of travellers through the +medium of this pictorial epitome.” + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +EL GRECO + +A BIOGRAPHY AND APPRECIATION. ILLUSTRATED BY REPRODUCTIONS OF OVER 140 +OF HIS PICTURES + + +In a Series such as this, which aims at presenting every aspect of +Spain’s eminence in art and in her artists, the work of Domenico +Theotocópuli must be allotted a volume to itself. “El Greco,” as he is +called, who reflects the impulse, and has been said to constitute the +supreme glory of the Venetian era, was a Greek by repute, a Venetian by +training, and a Toledan by adoption. His pictures in the Prado are still +catalogued among those of the Italian School, but foreigner as he was, +in his heart he was more Spanish than the Spaniards. + +El Greco is typically, passionately, extravagantly Spanish, and with his +advent, Spanish painting laid aside every trace of Provincialism, and +stepped forth to compel the interest of the world. Neglected for many +centuries, and still often misjudged, his place in art is an assured +one. It is impossible to present him as a colourist in a work of this +nature, but the author has got together reproductions of no fewer than +140 of his pictures--a greater number than has ever before been +published of El Greco’s works. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +VELAZQUEZ + +A BIOGRAPHY AND APPRECIATION. ILLUSTRATED WITH 142 REPRODUCTIONS FROM +PHOTOGRAPHS OF HIS MOST CELEBRATED PICTURES + + +Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez--“our Velazquez,” as Palomino +proudly styles him--has been made the subject of innumerable books in +every European language, yet the Editor of this Spanish Series feels +that it would not be complete without the inclusion of yet another +contribution to the broad gallery of Velazquez literature. + +The great Velazquez, the eagle in art--subtle, simple, incomparable--the +supreme painter, is still a guiding influence of the art of to-day. This +greatest of Spanish artists, a master not only in portrait painting, but +in character and animal studies, in landscapes and historical subjects, +impressed the grandeur of his superb personality upon all his work. +Spain, it has been said, the country whose art was largely borrowed, +produced Velazquez, and through him Spanish art became the light of a +new artistic life. + +The author cannot boast that he has new data to offer, but he has put +forward his conclusions with modesty; he has reproduced a great deal +that is most representative of the artist’s work; and he has endeavoured +to keep always in view his object to present a concise, accurate, and +readable life of Velazquez. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE SEVEN PRINCIPAL PALACES OF +THE SPANISH KINGS. PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED + + +Spain is beyond question the richest country in the world in the number +of its Royal Residences, and while few are without artistic importance, +all are rich in historical memories. Thus, from the Alcazar at Seville, +which is principally associated with Pedro the Cruel, to the Retiro, +built to divert the attention of Philip IV. from his country’s decay; +from the Escorial, in which the gloomy mind of Philip II. is perpetuated +in stone, to La Granja, which speaks of the anguish and humiliation of +Christina before Sergeant Garcia and his rude soldiery; from Aranjuéz to +Rio Frio, and from El Pardo, darkened by the agony of a good king, to +Miramar, to which a widowed Queen retired to mourn: all the history of +Spain, from the splendid days of Charles V. to the present time, is +crystallised in the Palaces that constitute the patrimony of the Crown. + +The Royal Palaces of Spain are open to visitors at stated times, and it +is hoped that this volume, with its wealth of illustrations, will serve +the visitor both as a guide and a souvenir. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA AND ZARAGOZA + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT, WITH 390 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +The glory of Valladolid has departed, but the skeleton remains, and +attached to its ancient stones are the memories that Philip II. was born +here, that here Cervantes lived, and Christopher Columbus died. In this +one-time capital of Spain, in the Plaza Mayor, the fires of the Great +Inquisition were first lighted, and here Charles V. laid the foundation +of the Royal Armoury, which was afterwards transferred to Madrid. + +More than seven hundred years have passed since Oviedo was the proud +capital of the Kingdoms of Las Asturias, Leon, and Castile. Segovia, +though no longer great, has still all the appurtenances of greatness, +and with her granite massiveness and austerity, she remains an +aristocrat even among the aristocracy of Spanish cities. Zamora, which +has a history dating from time almost without date, was the key of Leon +and the centre of the endless wars between the Moors and the Christians, +which raged round it from the eighth to the eleventh centuries. + +In this volume the author has striven to re-create the ancient greatness +of these six cities, and has preserved their memories in a wealth of +excellent and interesting illustrations. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +LEON, BURGOS AND SALAMANCA + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT, WITH 462 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +In Leon, once the capital of the second kingdom in Spain; in Burgos, +which boasts one of the most magnificent cathedrals in Spain, and the +custodianship of the bones of the Cid; and in Salamanca, with its +university, which is one of the oldest in Europe, the author has +selected three of the most interesting relics of ancient grandeur in +this country of departed greatness. + +Leon to-day is nothing but a large agricultural village, torpid, silent, +dilapidated; Burgos, which still retains traces of the Gotho-Castilian +character, is a gloomy and depleting capital; and Salamanca is a city of +magnificent buildings, a broken hulk, spent by the storms that from time +to time have devastated her. + +Yet apart from the historical interest possessed by these cities, they +still make an irresistible appeal to the artist and the antiquary. They +are content with their stories of old-time greatness and their +cathedrals, and these ancient architectural splendours, undisturbed by +the touch of a modernising and renovating spirit, continue to attract +the visitor. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +MADRID + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE SPANISH CAPITAL, WITH 450 +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Madrid is at once one of the most interesting and most maligned cities +in Europe. It stands at an elevation of 2,500 feet above the sea level, +in the centre of an arid, treeless, waterless, and wind-blown plain; but +whatever may be thought of the wisdom of selecting a capital in such a +situation, one cannot but admire the uniqueness of its position, and the +magnificence of its buildings, and one is forced to admit that, having +fairly entered the path of progress, Madrid bids fair to become one of +the handsomest and most prosperous of European cities. + +The splendid promenades, the handsome buildings, and the spacious +theatres combine to make Madrid one of the first cities of the world, +and the author has endeavoured with the aid of the camera, to place +every feature and aspect of the Spanish metropolis before the reader. +Some of the illustrations reproduced here have been made familiar to the +English public by reason of the interesting and stirring events +connected with the Spanish Royal Marriage, but the greater number were +either taken by the author, or are the work of photographers specially +employed to obtain new views for the purpose of this volume. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +GOYA + +A BIOGRAPHY AND APPRECIATION. ILLUSTRATED BY REPRODUCTIONS OF 600 OF HIS +PICTURES + + +The last of the old masters and the first of the moderns, as he has been +called, Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes is not so familiarised to +English readers as his genius deserves. He was born at a time when the +tradition of Velazquez was fading, and the condition of Spanish painting +was debased almost beyond hope of salvation; he broke through the +academic tradition of imitation; “he, next to Velazquez, is to be +accounted as the man whom the Impressionists of our time have to thank +for their most definite stimulus, their most immediate inspiration.” + +The genius of Goya was a robust, imperious, and fulminating genius; his +iron temperament was passionate, dramatic, and revolutionary; he painted +a picture as he would have fought a battle. He was an athletic, warlike, +and indefatigable painter; a naturalist like Velazquez; fantastic like +Hogarth; eccentric like Rembrandt; the last flame-coloured flash of +Spanish genius. + +It is impossible to reproduce his colouring; but in the reproductions of +his works the author has endeavoured to convey to the reader some idea +of Goya’s boldness of style, his mastery of frightful shadows and +mysterious lights, and his genius for expressing all terrible emotions. + + * * * * * + +_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_ + +CORDOVA + +A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE ANCIENT CITY WHICH THE +CARTHAGINIANS STYLED THE “GEM OF THE SOUTH,” WITH 160 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Gay-looking, vivacious in its beauty, silent, ill-provided, depopulated, +Cordova was once the pearl of the West, the city of cities, Cordova of +the thirty suburbs and three thousand mosques; to-day she is no more +than an overgrown village, but she still remains the most Oriental town +in Spain. + +Cordova, once the centre of European civilisation, under the Moors the +Athens of the West, the successful rival of Baghdad and Damascus, the +seat of learning and the repository of the arts, has shrunk to the +proportions of a third-rate provincial town; but the artist, the +antiquary and the lover of the beautiful, will still find in its streets +and squares and patios a mysterious spell that cannot be resisted. + + + + +BY ALBERT F. CALVERT + +LIFE OF CERVANTES + +A NEW LIFE OF THE GREAT SPANISH AUTHOR TO COMMEMORATE THE TERCENTENARY +OF THE PUBLICATION OF “DON QUIXOTE,” WITH NUMEROUS PORTRAITS AND +REPRODUCTIONS FROM EARLY EDITIONS OF “DON QUIXOTE” + +Size Crown 8vo. 150 pp. Price 3/6 net + +PRESS NOTICES + + +“A popular and accessible account of the career of Cervantes.”--_Daily +Chronicle._ + +“A very readable and pleasant account of one of the great writers of all +time.”--_Morning Leader._ + +“MR. CALVERT is entitled to the gratitude of book-lovers for his +industrious devotion at one of our greatest literary +shrines.”--_Birmingham Post._ + +“It is made trebly interesting by the very complete set of Cervantes’ +portraits it contains, and by the inclusion of a valuable +bibliography.”--_Black and White._ + +“We recommend the book to all those to whom Cervantes is more than a +mere name.”--_Westminster Gazette._ + +“A most interesting résumé of all facts up to the present time +known.”--_El Nervion de Bilbao, Spain._ + +“The most notable work dedicated to the immortal author of Don Quixote +that has been published in England.”--_El Graduador, Spain._ + +“Although the book is written in English no Spaniard could have written +it with more conscientiousness and enthusiasm.”--_El Defensor de +Granada, Spain._ + +BY ALBERT F. CALVERT + +THE ALHAMBRA + +OF GRANADA, BEING A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE MOSLEM RULE IN SPAIN FROM THE +REIGN OF MOHAMMED THE FIRST TO THE FINAL EXPULSION OF THE MOORS, +TOGETHER WITH A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE CONSTRUCTION, THE ARCHITECTURE +AND THE DECORATION OF THE MOORISH PALACE, WITH 80 COLOURED PLATES AND +NEARLY 300 BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS (NEW EDITION). DEDICATED BY +PERMISSION TO H.M. KING ALFONSO XIII. + +Size 10 x 7-1/2. Price £2 2s. net + +PRESS NOTICES + + +“It is hardly too much to say that this is one of the most magnificent +books ever issued from the English Press.”--_Building World._ + +“One is really puzzled where to begin and when to stop in praising the +illustrations.”--_Bookseller._ + +“The most complete record of this wonder of architecture which has ever +been contemplated, much less attempted.”--_British Architect._ + +“A treasure to the student of decorative art.”--_Morning Advertiser._ + +“Mr. CALVERT has given us a Book Beautiful.”--_Western Daily Press._ + +“It is the last word on the subject, no praise is too +high.”--_Nottingham Express._ + +“May be counted among the more important art books which have been +published during recent years.”--_The Globe._ + +“Has a pride of place that is all its own among the books of the +month.”--_Review of Reviews._ + +“Has in many respects surpassed any books on the Alhambra which up to +the present have appeared in our own country or abroad.”--_El Graduador, +Spain._ + +“It is one of the most beautiful books of modern times.”--_Ely Gazette._ + +“One of the most artistic productions of the year.”--_Publishers’ +Circular._ + +“The most beautiful book on the Alhambra issued in England.”--_Sphere._ + +“The standard work on a splendid subject.”--_Daily Telegraph._ + +“A remarkable masterpiece of book production.”--_Eastern Daily Press._ + +“A perfect treasure of beauty and delight.”--_Keighley News._ + +“A magnificent work.”--_Melbourne Age, Australia._ + +“Immense collection of fine plates.”--_The Times._ + +“A standard work, the compilation of which would credit a life’s +labour.”--_Hull Daily Mail._ + +BY ALBERT F. CALVERT + +MOORISH REMAINS IN SPAIN + + +BEING A BRIEF RECORD OF THE ARABIAN CONQUEST AND OCCUPATION OF THE +PENINSULA, WITH A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE MOHAMMEDAN ARCHITECTURE AND +DECORATION IN THE CITIES OF CORDOVA, SEVILLE AND TOLEDO, WITH MANY +COLOURED PLATES, AND OVER 400 BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS, DIAGRAMS, +ETC., DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO H.M. KING ALFONSO XIII. + +Crown 4to. (7-1/2 x 10 ins.) Price £2 2s. net + +PRESS NOTICES + + +“The making of this book must surely have been a veritable labour of +love; and love’s labour has certainly not been lost.”--_Pall Mall +Gazette._ + +“The best age of Moorish architecture in Spain is shown with remarkable +vividness and vitality.”--_The Scotsman._ + +“A most gorgeous book.... We cheerfully admit Mr. CALVERT into the ranks +of those whom posterity will applaud for delightful yet unprofitable +work.”--_Outlook._ + +“A large and sumptuous volume.”--_Tribune._ + +“The illustrations are simply marvels of reproduction.”--_Dundee +Advertiser._ + +“One of the books to which a simple literary review cannot pretend to do +justice.”--_Spectator._ + +“A special feature of a work of peculiar interest and value are the +illustrations.”--_Newcastle Chronicle._ + +“The illustrations are given with a minuteness and faithfulness of +detail, and colour, which will be particularly appreciated and +acknowledged by those who are most acquainted with the subject +themselves.”--_Liverpool Post._ + +“It is impossible to praise too highly the care with which the +illustrations have been prepared.”--_Birmingham Daily Post._ + +“It is illustrated with so lavish a richness of colour that to turn its +pages gives one at first almost the same impression of splendour as one +receives in wandering from hall to hall of the Alcazar of Seville; and +this is probably the highest compliment we could pay to the book or its +author.”--_Academy._ + +“It is certainly one of the most interesting books of the +year.”--_Crown._ + +“The occasional delicacy of design and harmony of colour can scarcely be +surpassed ... a valuable and profusely illustrated volume.”--_Guardian._ + +“An excellent piece of work.”--_The Times._ + +“Mr. CALVERT has performed a useful work.”--_Daily Telegraph._ + +“A truly sumptuous volume.”--_The Speaker._ + +“Mr. CALVERT has given a very complete account of the evolution of +Moresco art.”--_The Connoisseur._ + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] He is reckoned as Mohammed VI. by the writers who deny the title of +Sultan to the usurper of Mohammed V.’s throne. + +[B] Known as Mohammed X. + +[C] I adopt Mr. U. R. Burke’s statement of the relationship between +Abu-l-Hassan, Zoraya, and Boabdil. (Burke, “History of Spain,” II. p. +98.) + +[D] Here was lodged the cavalry of the Moorish Sultans. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 64620 *** |
