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diff --git a/old/67135-0.txt b/old/67135-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 69df7b4..0000000 --- a/old/67135-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12131 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, -Vol. III (of 3), by James Augustus St. John - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. III (of 3) - -Author: James Augustus St. John - -Release Date: January 10, 2022 [eBook #67135] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Turgut Dincer, sf2001, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED -TRAVELLERS, VOL. III (OF 3) *** - - - - - - _Harper’s Stereotype Edition._ - - THE - LIVES - OF - CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. - - BY - JAMES AUGUSTUS ST. JOHN. - - Wand’ring from clime to clime, observant stray’d, - Their manners noted and their states survey’d. - Pope’s Homer. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - VOL. III. - - NEW-YORK: - - PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. & J. HARPER, - NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET, - - AND SOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS THROUGHOUT - THE UNITED STATES. - - 1832. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -MUNGO PARK. - -Born 1771.--Died 1806. - - Born at Fowlshiels, near Selkirk--Receives a respectable - education--Bound apprentice to a surgeon--Finishes his education - at Edinburgh--Removes to London--Becomes known to Sir Joseph - Banks--Appointed surgeon to the Worcester, East Indiaman--Engaged - by the African Association to ascertain the course of the - Niger--Sails from England--Arrives at Jillifica--Unknown species - of fish--Alligators--Hippopotami--Pisania--Dr. Laidley--Studies - the Mandingo language--Attacked by fever and delirium--Horrors - of the rainy season in Africa--Wild beasts--Departs from - Pisania--Surrounded by a body of the natives--Visits the King of - Woolli--Obtains a guide--Elephant-hunters--Presents his coat to - the chief of Fatteconda--Major Houghton--Limited territories of - the African kings--Suggestion by which Africa may be effectually - explored--Folly of despatching a solitary traveller--A night - journey--Solitary forest--Dangers from wild beasts--Hospitable - Mohammedan--Festival in honour of his arrival--Negro - dances--Joag--Robbed of half his merchandise--Humanity of - a female slave--Kasson--Robbed a second time--Affectionate - meeting between the blacksmith and his relations--Maternal - affection--Curiosity excited by the presence of a white - man--Kooniakary--Audience with the king--Advised to retrace his - footsteps--Romantic scenery--Cheapness of provisions--Superstition - of his Mohammedan guide--Terrifies two negro horsemen--Is - mistaken for a demon--Kaarta--Buglehorns formed of elephants’ - teeth--Receives permission to depart--Jarra--Visits Ali the - King of Ludamar--Despatches his journal to the Gambia--Is - robbed--Barbarous treatment of Park by Ali and his Moorish - countrymen--Placed in a hut with a wild boar--Is chosen royal - barber--Pillaged of the remainder of his property--Superstitious - curiosity--Is threatened with death or mutilation--Tortured - for Moorish amusement--Robbed of his slave-boy--Affecting - scene--Attempts to escape--Departs in the night--Stopped - and robbed of his cloak--Nearly perishes from hunger and - thirst--Storm in the desert--Multitude of frogs--Compelled to - wander through the woods--Subsists on wild berries--Enters - the kingdom of Bambarra--Mistaken for a Moor--Destitute - condition--Comes within sight of the Niger--Joy at effecting - the object of his mission--Sego--Refused entrance into the - city--Humanity of a woman--Receives a present from the king of - Bambarra--Sansanding--Hospitable reception--Is requested to write - a saphie, or charm--Camelopard--Encounters a lion--Moodiboo--Loses - his horse--Reaches Silla--Exhausted with fatigue and - sickness--Unable to proceed--Resolves to return--Song--Denied - entrance into the village--In danger of being devoured by - lions--Stripped and robbed by a band of peasants--Overwhelmed - with grief and terror--Derives consolation from religious - reflections--Sibidooloo--Regains his horse and other - property--Unites himself to a slave caravan--Obtains a common - prayer-book--Arrives at Pisania--Returns to England--Singular - interview with his brother-in-law--Received with distinguished - honour by the African Association--Publishes his travels--Returns - to Scotland--Marries--Practises as a surgeon at Peebles--Becomes - disgusted with an obscure life--Appointed chief conductor of a - second expedition into the interior of Africa, under the sanction - of the British government--Sails from Portsmouth--Arrives at - Pisanio--Sets out with the party for the interior--Dreadfully - stung by a swarm of bees--The journey nearly put an end to by this - event--Rainy season--The whole party sick--Gold-pits--Soldiers - become delirious--Numbers die, or are left behind--Attacked - by wild beasts--Cut off by the natives--Guide attacked and - wounded by a crocodile--Remarkable presence of mind--Robbed by - two African princes--Encounters three lions--Arrives on the - banks of the Niger--Opens a bazaar--Death of Mr. Scott--Mission - reduced to a very small number--Death of Mr. Anderson--Embarks - on the Niger--Conclusion of his journal--Isaaco’s account of his - death--Captain Clapperton’s corroboration--Character--Sir Walter - Scott 13 - - -PETER SIMON PALLAS. - -Born 1741.--Died 1811. - - Born at Berlin--Educated as a surgeon--Studies natural - history--Visits Holland--England--Publishes his first - great work--Accepts an appointment in the Academy of - St. Petersburg--Catherine II.--Engages in the Russian - enterprise for observing the transit of Venus--Sets - out from St. Petersburg--Gadflies--River Jemlia--Pearl - muscles--Arrives at Moscow--Marine sponges used for painting - the cheeks--Rhubarb--Vlodimir--Cherry-orchards--Tartar - princes--Goitres--Extreme filthiness of the Russians--Severe - cold--Mules between the goat and sheep--Sulphurous - springs--Environs of Sumara--Travels on sledges--Skeletons - of elephants--Tizran--Excessive heat--Village unroofed - by a hurricane--River Volga--Ancient tombs--Gigantic - bones--Kalmuc camp--Archery--Botanical excursions--Marsh - flies--Kirghees--Orenburg--Golden eagles--Falconry--Value - of a trained hawk--Salt-mines--Chinese caravan--Jasper - mountains--Jasper tombs--Ruins of Sarai--Embarks upon the Caspian - Sea--Arranges his Journal--Floods--Hurricanes--Bottomless - pit--Furious wild dogs--Beehives--Method of protecting the hives - from the bears--Volcano--Burning forest--Cotton produced from the - poplar-tree--Loses himself in a forest--Curious method of passing - a river--Asbestos mountain--The mind abhors an uninterrupted - calm--Insipid method of travelling--Method of preparing - Russia leather in Siberia--Cheliabinsk--Departs for Eastern - Siberia--Extensive conflagration--Steppe of Ischimi--Aquatic - game--White herons--Arrives at Omsk--Refused permission to - inspect the Siberian maps there--Banks of the Irtish--Continual - storms--Method of preserving furs from the moth--Encounters an - enormous wolf--Ancient mines--Attacked by dysentery--Prodigious - tomb--Enormous lump of solid gold--Visits the Altaïc - mountains--Sublime scenery--Black sparrows--Crosses Lake Baikal - in a sledge--Rugged and sublime scenery--Tremendous storm--Hunting - the sea-dog--Mongolia--Borders of China--His health declines--Blue - crow--Locusts--Tartar hordes--Intense cold--Prepares for - his return to Petersburg--Execrable manner of peopling - Siberia--Perilous adventure--Wild horses--Ancient shores of the - Caspian--Repairs to Moscow--Arrives at Petersburg--Premature - old age--Publishes his travels, &c.--M. Cuvier--Theory of the - earth--Traverses the southern provinces of Russia--Dies at - Berlin--Character 65 - - -CARSTEN NIEBUHR. - -Born 1733.--Died 1815. - - Born in the province of Friesland--Studies music--Intends - practising as a land-surveyor--Celebrated Reiske--Engaged - to accompany a scientific expedition into Arabia--Goes to - Copenhagen--Appointed lieutenant of engineers--Liberality - of the Danish Minister--Proceeds to Marseilles--White - rainbow--Transit of Venus--Malta--Serpents--Maltese - knights--Efforts to convert Niebuhr to Catholicism--Great - Church of St. John--Prodigious wealth--Hospital--Sails - to Smyrna--Tenedos--Attacked by dysentery--Proceeds to - Constantinople--Assumes the oriental costume--Sails for - Egypt--Rhodes--Turkish eating-house--Wine-drinkers--Female - slaves--Amusing story--Plague--Egypt--Pompey’s pillar--Turkish - merchant and the telescope--Laughable anecdote--Mr. Forskaal - stripped of his breeches--Rosetta--Arrives at Cairo--The - river Nile--Pirates--Bruce the traveller--Curious anecdote - of robbers--The Virgin on horseback--Churches strewed - with crutches--Arrives at Damietta--Boats loaded with - beehives--Europeans detested at Damietta--Encountered - by a young sheïkh--Visits the Pyramids--Observations on - them--Sets out for Suez--Advantages of travelling on - dromedaries--Trade of Suez--Rose of Jericho--Mountain of - Inscriptions--Arab women--Is refused admission into the - monastery of St. Catherine--Deserted by his guides--Ascends - a portion of Mount Sinai--Voyage from Suez to Jidda--Black - eunuch--Elim--Is protected by some Janizaries--Emerald - mountains--Forskaal taken for a physician--Laughable - story--Ship in danger of being set on fire--Indiscreet - curiosity--Jidda--Custom-house extortions--Forbidden to approach - the Mecca gate--Curious method of catching wild ducks--Sails - for Loheia--Yemen--Bedouins--Politeness of the emir--Hospitable - treatment--Curiosity of the Arabs--Dr. Cramer requested to - prescribe for the emir’s horse--Amusing anecdote of two young - Arabs--Great coffee emporium of Beit el-Fakih--Description of - the coffee plantations--Danger of travelling by day--Niebuhr - is mistaken for an Arab--Is supposed to be searching for - gold--Balm of Mecca--Is seized with illness--Mokha--Ludicrous - anecdote--Death of Von Haven--Of Forskaal--Difficulty of obtaining - a place of burial--Polite reception at Sana--Obtains an audience - of the imam--Sails for India--Arrives at Bombay--Death of - Baurenfeind--Forwards his manuscripts to Copenhagen--Sails for - the Persian gulf--Phosphoric fires--Troop of dolphins--History - of Nadir Shah--Sir W. Jones--Visits Shiraz--Superstition - respecting manner of killing a fowl--Visits a Turkoman - camp--Anecdote--Arrives at Shiraz--Hospitable reception by - an Englishman--Palace--Persepolis--Arab sheïkh--Dialogue - with the moollah of a mosque respecting marriage--Ruins of - Babylon--Proceeds with a Jewish caravan--Turkish firman--Devil - worshippers--Cowardice of his companions--Adventure with an - Arab sheïkh--Dr. Patrick Russel--Oriental Christians--Visits - Palestine--Mount Taurus--Baber Khan--Returns to Europe--Arrives - at Copenhagen--Publishes his various works--Marries--Quits the - capital--Appointed secretary of the district at Meldorf--Anecdotes - and character of Niebuhr by his son--Illiberality towards - Bruce--Account of Niebuhr’s latter days--Illness--Death 99 - - -CHOISEUL-GOUFFIER. - -Born 1752.--Died 1817. - - Incompleteness of the biography of celebrated men--Born at Paris - of an illustrious family--His passion for the fine arts--Taste - for literature--Falls in love--Marries--Adopts the profession - of arms--Obtains the rank of colonel--Sails for Greece--His - enthusiasm for antiquity--Visits the Grecian Isles--Occupies - himself in drawing--Grotto of Antiparos--Opinions respecting - its construction--Proceeds to Lemnos, Rhodes, &c.--Ruins of - Telmissus--River Mæander, Ephesus, Smyrna, and Troy--Homer--Trojan - territories--Rivers Simois and Scamander--Remarkable spots in - the neighbourhood of Troy--Tombs of Ilus and Patroclus--Camp of - the Greeks--Returns to France--Arranges the materials of his - travels--Flattering reception--Patriotism--Modern Greeks--Elected - member of the French Academy--Celebrated discourse on the death - of D’Alembert--Delille’s poem entitled “Imagination”--Extract - applied to Choiseul-Gouffier--Appointed ambassador to the - Ottoman Porte--Acquires the confidence of Halil Pasha, and of - Prince Mauro Cordato--Attempts to introduce civilization among - the Turks--Turkish ship-of-war--Obtains the release of the - Russian ambassador--Prevents the imprisonment of the Austrian - internuncio--Protects the Russian and Austrian prisoners--Revisits - the Troad--Despatches artists to Syria and Egypt--Appointed - ambassador to the court of London--Anecdote of the Count de - Cobentzel--Emperor Paul of Russia--Returns to France--Rose harvest - of Adrianople--Personal existence of Homer--Is seized with an - apoplectic fit--Dies 154 - - -JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT. - -Born 1784.--Died 1817. - - Descended from an eminent family at Basle--Born at - Lausanne--Aversion to republican principles--Detestation - of the French--Enters as a student at Leipzig--Removes to - Göttingen--Arrives in London--African Association--His offers - are accepted--Studies Arabic--Allows his beard to grow--Assumes - the oriental dress--Accustoms himself to endure hardships--Sails - from Cowes--Arrives at Malta--Dr. Sectzen--Assumes the - character of an Indian Mohammedan merchant--Reaches the coast - of Syria--Departs for Aleppo--Laughable anecdote--Aga’s - dislike to beer and potatoes--Suspected of being a Frank in - disguise--Is pulled by the beard and otherwise insulted--Arrives - at Aleppo--Puts off his Mohammedan dress--Is seized with fever - from the bites of vermin--Attempts a translation of Robinson - Crusoe into Arabic--Sets out in company with an Arab sheïkh for - Palmyra--Robbed on the road--Damascus--Arab hospitality--Beautiful - scenery--Baalbec and Libanus--Cedars--The Druses--Haurān the - patrimony of Abraham--Vestiges of ancient cities--Places - himself under the protection of an Arab sheïkh--Enters the - desert--Is stripped to the skin, and left exposed to the rays - of the sun--Arab lady attempts to steal his shirt--Returns to - Damascus--Dead Sea--Joins a caravan--Philadelphia--Treachery of - the Sheïkh of Kerek--Valley of Ghor--Ruins of Petra--Arrives - at Cairo--Journey into Nubia--Mameluke chiefs--Deadly - feud--Hospitality of the Nubians--Romantic scenery--Curious mode - of extorting presents--Admirable custom of placing water-jars - by the road-side--Drunken savages--Palm wine--Contempt for - Mohammed Ali--Descends the Nile--Colossal statues--Anecdote - of an Arab--Assouan--Cheapness of provisions--March of a - caravan through the desert--Is treated with great contempt - by his companions--Bruce--Burckhardt’s insolent skepticism - respecting that eminent traveller--Extraordinary sufferings--Wady - el Nabeh--Scarcity of water--Nubian desert--Lakes of - mirage--Is near perishing from thirst--Camels despatched to - the Nile--Insolence and extortion--Extraordinary method of - discovering a stolen lamb--Arrives at Damar--Adventure with - a Faky--Numerous crocodiles--Romantic scenery--Tremendous - effects of a desert storm--Taka--Enormous lions--Effects of the - sultan’s firman on his persecutors--Returns to Jidda--Attacked - by fever--Delicious fruit--Sells his slave--Sets out for the - interior of the Hejah--Arrives at Mecca--Picturesque scenery--Ras - el Kora--Tayef--Observations on Burckhardt’s beard--Suspected - of being an English spy--Affects to be hurt by the pasha’s - suspicions--Animated description of the Hadj, or pilgrimage - to Mecca--Sets out for Medina--Is attacked by an intermittent - fever--Melancholy condition--Consoles himself by reading - Milton--Tomb of Mohammed--Sets out for Yembo--Plague--Pursues - his journey to Cairo--Composes his journal--Excursion to Mount - Sinai--Furnishes Belzoni with money for removing the head of - Memnon--Is attacked with dysentery--Dies at Cairo--Character 168 - - -VOLNEY. - -Born 1757.--Died 1820. - - Born at Craon in Anjou--His name first changed by his - father, and afterward by himself--Studies the sciences with - ardour--Is bequeathed a small sum of money--Determines to - spend it in travelling--Proceeds to Marseilles--Embarks - for Egypt--Alexandria--Cairo--Studies the Arabic--Defends - Herodotus--Proceeds to Syria--Describes Mount Lebanon--Resides - in an Arabian convent--Studies the Arabic--Visits the tribe - of Bedouins--Is invited to reside among them--Describes the - Druzes--Returns to France--Publishes his travels--Acquires a - great reputation--Is compared with Herodotus--Is presented with a - gold medal by the Empress Catherine--Publishes his considerations - on the war between the Turks and Russians--Meditates the - improvement of agriculture--Is elected a member of the Constituent - Assembly--Connexion with Cabanis and Mirabeau--Anecdote--Returns - Catherine her medal, and is abused by Grimm--Visits - Corsica--Publishes the “Law of Nature”--Character of that - work--Is imprisoned as a royalist--Travels in America--Well - received by Washington--Dr. Priestley--Returns to France--Refuses - to share the honours of Napoleon--Marries--Dies 219 - - -EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE. - -Born 1769.--Died 1822. - - Born in Sussex--Is an idle student--Saves the life of his - brother--Studies at Cambridge--Loses his father--Proceeds - slowly with his studies--Fond of miscellaneous reading--Quits - the university--Becomes a private tutor--Makes the tour - of England--Publishes an account of it--Travels with Lord - Berwick--Passes the Alps--Italy--Naples--Eruption of Mount - Vesuvius--Is in danger of perishing among the lava--Engages to - travel in Egypt--Returns to England--Is disappointed--Publishes a - periodical work--Is again a private tutor--Engages to travel with - Mr. Cripps--Departs from England--Sweden--Norway--Lapland--Gulf - of Finland--St. Petersburg--Picture of the Russians and their - emperor--Moscow--The Crimea--Professor Pallas--Constantinople--The - Plain of Troy--Aboukir--Palestine--Egypt--The - Pyramids--Antiquities taken from the French--Isles of - Greece--Athens--Mount Parnassus--Returns to England--Created - LL.D.--Takes orders--Marries--Sells his MSS. and coins--Enjoys - pluralities--Sells the copyright of his travels--Lectures on - mineralogy--Appointed professor--Studies with enthusiasm--Falls - ill--Is carried to London--Dies 238 - - -FRANCOIS LE VAILLANT. - -Born 1753.--Died 1824. - - Peculiar excellence of Le Vaillant’s style--Born in Dutch - Guyana--Early pursuits--Is brought to Europe--Studies--Conceives - the idea of travelling--Repairs to Holland--Embarks for - the Cape of Good Hope--Arrive--Dutch hospitality--Cape - Town--Hurricane--Character of the colonists--Admiration of the - English, and detestation of the French--Saldanha Bay--Mutton - Island--Gazelle and panther-hunting--Harpooning a whale--The - Dane’s grave--Prodigious clouds of birds--Blowing-up of a - ship-of-war--Loss of Le Vaillant’s papers, collections, and - travelling-chest--Melancholy--Meets with a friend--Recommences - his collections--Prepares for a journey into the - interior--His wagons, merchandise, and arms--Choice of - travelling companions--Hottentot followers--Departs from - Cape Town--Sweets of liberty--Magnificent scenery--Vast - herds of antelopes--Curious species of tortoise--Augments - his followers--Arrives on the Dove’s River--Pleasant mode - of spending his time--African story-teller--Abundance of - game--Seashore--Beautiful district--Fairy-land--Spenser--Gardens - of Adonis--Shoots a touraco--Pursues it through the woods--Falls - into an elephant-snare--Danger and alarm--Escapes--Torrents - of Africa--Verdant palace--Proceeds to the Black - River--Accident--Is attacked by illness--Oppressed by - melancholy--Recovers--Discovers the footmarks of elephants--Sets - out in chase of them--Shoots an elephant--Pursues the herd--Is - in imminent danger--Escapes--Exquisite flavour of an elephant’s - foot--Falls in with a tribe of wild Hottentots--Manners and - opinions--Approaches the country of the Kaffers--Terrors of - his followers--Despatches messengers into Kaffer-land--Fury - of an African storm--Wild beasts--Meets with a new tribe of - Hottentots--Exchange of presents--Enamoured of a Hottentot - girl--Return of his messengers, accompanied by Kaffers--Dutch - spies in the camp--Alarm of the Kaffers--Their departure--Prepares - to enter Kaffraria--His people refuse to proceed--Selects - a small number of the bravest of his Hottentots for the - expedition--Quits his camp--Enters Kaffraria--Solitude and - desertion of the country--Returns--Contemplates his return to - the Cape--Enormous herds of antelopes--Sublime scenery of the - Sneuw Bergen--The Bushmen--Great scarcity of water--Reaches - the Cape--Reposes--Unhappy opinion--Projects a second - journey--Preparations--Departure--Nests of the white ant--Dreadful - scarcity of water--Discovers a well in the desert--Elephant’s - River--African harpies--Is near perishing in the Elephant’s - River--Abandons his chariots in the desert--Forerunners of - a tempest--Cloud-worshippers--A storm--Quenches his burning - thirst--Visits a Hottentot horde--Hospitality--Is overtaken - by a Dutchman, who intoxicates his followers--Terrible - accident--Horrors of the savage life--Proceeds on his - journey--Beholds a giraffe, and kills one--Presence of women in - the camp--Arrives on the frontiers of the Hoozwana country--New - terrors of his followers--Solitude of the desert--Discovers - a horde of Hoozwanas--Obtains their friendship--Character - of these wild people--They reconduct him to his camp on the - Gariep--Accident--Oxen stolen by the Bushmen--Follows them - to their kraal--Battle--Recovers his cattle, and returns - to the camp--Befriends a miserable white family--Is on the - point of death--Recovers--Returns to the Cape--And then to - Europe--Publishes his travels--Dies 262 - - -BELZONI. - - Born at Padua--Is designed for the monastic life--Studies at - Rome--Hydraulics--Invasion of Italy by the French--Alters his plan - of life--Departs from Rome--Arrives in England--Marries--Remains - nine years in Great Britain--Travels through the south of - Europe--Malta--Arrives in Egypt--Enters into the service of - the pasha--Constructs an hydraulic machine--View from the - Pyramids--Is near being murdered by a soldier--Rebellion of - the janizaries--Quits the service of the pasha--Undertakes - the removal of the Memnon’s head--Ascends the Nile--Arrives - at Thebes--Magnificence of the ruins--Establishes himself - in the Memnonium--Removes the head to the Nile--Visits the - Necropolis at Gournon--Loses himself in the sepulchres--Horrors - of the tombs--Proceeds to Assouan--His boat attacked on the - Nile--Reaches Deir--Temple of Ipsambul--Ignorance of the - Nubians--Use of money--Returns to Thebes--Embarks the head of - Memnon--Antiquarians--Is shot at in the ruins of Thebes--Descends - the Nile to Rosetta--Mr. Briggs--Returns to Cairo, and thence - again to Thebes--Mummy-pits--Decay of the mummies--Proceeds to - Ipsambul--Opens the temple--Sepulchres of the kings--Alabaster - sarcophagus--Visits the emerald mines on the Red Sea--Returns - to Cairo--Visits the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon--Returns to - England--Publishes his travels--Proceeds again to Africa--Dies 327 - - -DOMINIQUE VIVANT DENON. - -Born 1754.--Died 1825. - - Born at Burgundy--Becomes a king’s page--Secretary to the - Neapolitan Embassy--His character and physiognomy--Studies the - art of design--Adopts the principles of the revolution--Embarks - with Napoleon for Egypt--Arrives at Alexandria--Impressions on - entering a new city--Rosetta--Pursued by the Arabs--Desaix--Visits - the Pyramids--Population of Cairo--Revolt against the - French--Danger of Denon--Massacre of four _savans_--Dissects the - mummy of Ibis--Serpent-charmers--Departs for Upper Egypt--Murad - Bey--Battle with the Mamelukes--Horrible anecdote--Anecdote of a - youthful robber--A shower of rain--Ruins of Oxyrinchus--Gloomy - opinions--Ruins of Hermopolis--Dangerous mode of travelling--Ruins - of Denderah--Anger of General Desaix--Anecdote of a French - officer--Comes in sight of the ruins of Thebes--The whole army - halt and clap their hands--Statues of Ossymandyas--Island - of Phile--Khamsyn wind--Journey to Cosseir--Returns to the - Nile--Sails for France--Is made superintendent of museums by - Napoleon--Directs the casting of the triumphal column in the Place - Vendôme--Dies 345 - - -REGINALD HEBER. - -Born 1783.--Died 1826. - - Born at Malpas, in the county of Chester--Early piety--Studies - at Oxford--Poem of “Palestine”--Recites his work in - public--Becomes a volunteer--Loses his father--Travels in Northern - Europe--Sweden--Norway--Russia--Ladies of Moscow--Traverses the - Ukraine--Romantic view at Nakitchivan--Tcherkask--Inhabitants - of the banks of the Kuban--Traverses the Crimea--Returns to - England--Obtains the living of Hodnet--Purity and romance of his - opinions--Marries--Excellence as a parish priest--Contributes - to the Quarterly Review--Publishes his poems--Observance - of Sunday--Delivers the Bampton Lectures--Loses his only - child--Illness--Appointed Bishop of Calcutta--Friendship - of the honourable Watkins Williams Wynn--Is exceedingly - esteemed and regretted--Sails with his family for India--Pious - conduct on board--Arrives in the Ganges--Colour of the - Hindoos--Reaches Calcutta--Laborious situation--Departs from - Calcutta on his visitation to the Upper Provinces--Scenery - of Bengal--Arrives at Dacca--Visits the Nawâb--Loses his - chaplain--Continues his voyage up the Ganges--Sultan Sujah’s - palace--Rosefields of Ghazeepoor--Attar of roses--Reaches - Benares--Lucknow--First view of the Himalaya--Contrasted with - view of Mont Blanc--Approaches the Himalaya--Almorah--Returns - towards the south--Delhi--Is presented to the emperor--Agra--The - Taj-mahal--Sir David Ochterlony--Traverses Rajpootana--Bombay--Mr. - Elphinstone--Ceylon--Calcutta--Madras--Death 356 - - - - -THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. - - - - -MUNGO PARK. - -Born 1771.--Died 1806. - - -This enterprising and distinguished traveller was born on the 10th -of September, 1771, at Fowlshiels, a farm occupied by his father on -the banks of the Yarrow, near Selkirk. In common with the greater -number of the sons of Scottish yeomen, Mungo Park, notwithstanding -that the number of his brothers and sisters amounted to no less -than thirteen, received a respectable education, and at the age of -fifteen was bound apprentice to a surgeon at Selkirk. At the close -of this apprenticeship, in 1789, Park continued his medical studies -at the university of Edinburgh, where, though nothing remarkable is -recorded of him, he seems to have applied with great assiduity to his -professional studies. His summer vacations, during one of which he made -a tour to the Highlands, were devoted to botany. - -Having completed his education, Park removed to London in search of -professional employment. Here, through the kindness of Mr. Dickson, -his brother-in-law, he had the good fortune to become known to Sir -Joseph Banks, to whom so many other distinguished travellers have been -indebted; and through whose recommendation he was appointed surgeon -to the Worcester East Indiaman. In this capacity he made a voyage to -Bencoolen, in Sumatra, the only fruits of which was a paper containing -descriptions of eight new fishes from Sumatra, published in the third -volume of the _Linnæan Transactions_. - -Shortly after his return from this voyage, Park, learning that the -African Association, of which his friend Sir Joseph Banks was a very -active and zealous member, were desirous of engaging a person to -replace Major Houghton, who, it was feared, had fallen a sacrifice to -the climate, or perished in some contest with the natives, eagerly -offered his services, which after due deliberation were accepted. -The association, he observes, conducted itself with great liberality -towards him. He forthwith prepared himself for the voyage, and on the -22d of May, 1795, sailed from Portsmouth in the brig Endeavour. His -instructions, he says, were very plain and concise. He was directed, -on his arrival in Africa, “to pass on to the river Niger, either by -the way of Bambouk or by such other route as should be found most -convenient; that I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, -the rise and termination of the river. That I should use my utmost -exertions to visit the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, -particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa; and that I should afterward be at -liberty to return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by -such other route as under all the then existing circumstances of my -situation and prospects should appear to me to be most advisable.” - -On the 21st of June, after an agreeable voyage of thirty days, he -arrived at Jillifica, a town on the northern bank of the Gambia, in the -kingdom of Barra. From this place after a stay of two days he proceeded -up the Gambia, in the waters of which were found prodigious numbers -of fish of unknown species, together with alligators and hippopotami, -whose teeth furnish excellent ivory. Park, having quitted the Endeavour -at Jonkakonda, proceeded thence by land; and reaching Pisania, a small -British factory in the King of Yam’s dominions, on the 5th of July took -up his residence at the house of Dr. Laidley, until he should be able -to prosecute his journey into the interior. - -Our traveller’s first care now was to render himself master of the -Mandingo language, which in this part of Africa is in general use; and -to collect from every source within his power information respecting -the countries he was about to visit. In the language his progress -depended on his own application; but he soon found that little or no -reliance could be placed on the accounts of the interior furnished him -by the natives, who on the most material points were frequently in -direct contradiction with each other. His anxiety to examine and judge -for himself was therefore increased. However, besides that the rainy -season, which had now commenced, rendered travelling impracticable, -another equally insuperable bar to the speedy prosecution of his -journey quickly presented itself. In observing on the 31st of July -an eclipse of the moon, he imprudently exposed himself to the night -dew, and next day he found himself attacked by fever and delirium, -which were the commencement of an illness that with a very trifling -intermission confined him during two months within doors. “The care and -attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly,” says Park, “to alleviate -my sufferings; his company and conversation beguiled the tedious -hours during that gloomy season when the rain falls in torrents; when -suffocating heats oppress by day, and when the night is spent by the -terrified traveller in listening to the croaking of frogs (of which the -numbers are beyond imagination), the shrill cry of the jackal, and the -deep howling of the hyena; a dismal concert, interrupted only by the -roar of such tremendous thunder as no person can form a conception of -but those who have heard it.” - -Having been disappointed in his expectations of proceeding with a -slave caravan towards Bambarra, Park departed from Pisania on the 2d -of December, 1795. He had been provided with a negro servant, named -Johnson, who had been many years in Great Britain, and understood -both the English and Mandingo languages; and with a negro boy, named -Demba, the property of Dr. Laidley, who, as the highest inducement of -good behaviour, promised him his freedom on his return. Besides these -Park was accompanied by four other persons, who, though independent -of his control, were made to understand that their safe return to the -countries on the Gambia would depend on our traveller’s preservation. -His equipment was by no means magnificent: a horse for himself, two -asses for his servants, provisions for two days, a small assortment of -beads, amber, and tobacco, a few changes of linen and other apparel, -an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, a thermometer, two -fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other small articles. His -friends at Pisania accompanied him during the first two days, and then, -dismissing him on his way, took their leave, secretly persuaded they -should never see him more. - -He had scarcely lost sight of his European friends, and ridden off -musing and somewhat melancholy into the wood, when a body of black -people presented themselves in a clamorous manner before him, demanding -custom-dues, in default of which they threatened to carry him before -their king. To escape from this honour, which might have proved a -costly one, Park presented them with a little tobacco, upon which they -were of course contented, and he was allowed to proceed. On reaching -Medina, the capital of Woolli, he judged it prudent, or perhaps -absolutely necessary, to present himself at the king’s levee, when -the venerable benevolent old chief not only granted him permission to -traverse his dominions, but assured him he would offer up prayers for -his safety, partly to secure which he furnished him with a trusty guide. - -Having safely reached the frontiers of the Woolli dominions, Park -dismissed his guide; and being about to enter a country interspersed -with deserts, in which water is frequently not to be procured, he hired -three negroes, experienced elephant-hunters, who were at once to serve -as guides and water-bearers. While he was preparing to depart, however, -one of these negroes, who had all received a part of their pay in -advance, made his escape; and lest the remaining two should be disposed -to follow his example, he immediately gave orders to fill their -calabashes, or gourds, with water, and struck off into the wilderness, -just as the sun was appearing above the horizon. Through this desert -they proceeded until they reached Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou -towards Woolli, where Park engaged a kind of custom-house officer to -accompany him for a trifling present to Fatteconda, the residence -of the king. In his company our traveller accordingly performed the -journey to that city. On his arrival at Fatteconda he was received by -the black chief with much apparent kindness, though Major Houghton, he -had heard, in his passage through the country, had been both insulted -and plundered by this same man. However, he soon discovered that the -manifestations of a hospitable disposition observable in the king’s -manner was not deceptive. It is true he was so completely captivated -by our traveller’s best blue coat and gilt buttons, that he could not -resist the temptation to beg it; but he endeavoured in some measure to -remunerate him for the loss by a present of five drachms of gold, and -by altogether abstaining from examining his baggage, or exacting any -other present than what was voluntarily bestowed. - -The territories of these petty African chiefs, whom we complaisantly -denominate kings, are exceedingly limited in extent. Your road conducts -you to-day through one kingdom, to-morrow through another, and the next -day through a third; which, of all those circumstances that obstruct -the movements of the traveller in Africa, is, perhaps, the most -vexatious and the most difficult to overcome; as the rapacity of the -first chiefs who lie in his way deprives him of the power of satisfying -the equal rapacity of the remainder. This consideration alone would -suffice to convince me that if ever Africa is to be properly explored, -it must be by an armed force sufficiently powerful to carry terror -through the country, and not by a solitary traveller, who, whatever may -be his perseverance or courage, must either fall in the attempt, or -return with notions hastily formed, picked up at random, or borrowed -from the ignorant credulous natives. The perpetual state of captivity -in which Park moved is a strong proof of this. He was never, unless -when far removed from human society by woods or deserts, completely -master of his own actions, or sufficiently respected to render it -possible for him to contemplate the superior classes, even of these -savages, from a proper level. To judge with impartiality, a man must -neither be under the influence of fear nor of contempt, of anger nor of -gratitude. He must feel himself perfectly on a level with those about -him. - -To proceed, however, with Park:--“In the afternoon,” says he, “my -fellow-travellers informed me, that as this was the boundary between -Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for travellers, it would be necessary -to continue our journey by night, until we should reach a more -hospitable part of the country. I agreed to the proposal, and hired -two people for guides through the woods, and as soon as the people of -the village were gone to sleep (the moon shining bright) we set out. -The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts, and the deep -solitude of the forest made the scene solemn and impressive. Not a word -was uttered by any of us but in a whisper; all were attentive, and -every one anxious to show his sagacity by pointing out to me the wolves -and hyenas as they glided like shadows from one thicket to another. -Towards morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, when our guides -awakened one of their acquaintance, and we stopped to give our asses -some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts for ourselves. At daylight -we resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at Joag in the -kingdom of Kajaaga.” - -On arriving at Joag, the frontier town of the kingdom of Kajaaga, our -traveller (who had taken up his residence at the house of the dooty, or -chief man of the town, a rigid but hospitable Mohammedan) was favoured -with an opportunity of observing the genuine character of the negro. -“The same evening,” says he, “Madiboo, the bushreen who had accompanied -me from Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who -dwelt at a neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined by my other -attendant the blacksmith; and as soon as it was dark, I was invited -to see the sports of the inhabitants, it being their custom on the -arrival of strangers to welcome them by diversions of different kinds. -I found a great crowd surrounding a party who were dancing by the light -of some large fires to the music of four drums, which were beat with -great exactness and uniformity. The dances, however, consisted more in -wanton gestures than in muscular exertion or graceful attitudes. The -ladies vied with each other in displaying the most voluptuous movements -imaginable.” - -At Joag, while preparing to advance on his journey, he was suddenly -honoured with a visit from the king’s son, accompanied by a troop -of horse, who, pretending that by entering his father’s dominions -he had forfeited the whole of his property, insisted upon examining -his merchandise, of which he seized upon the moiety. Of the remnant -that remained, particularly a little amber and a few beads, which -he had succeeded in concealing, he was now so fearful of producing -any portion, even for the purchase of food, lest he should once more -awaken the cupidity of the authorities, that both he and his attendants -determined on combating hunger for the day, “and wait some opportunity -of purchasing or begging provisions.” In this extremity, while he -was sitting down chewing straws, a female slave, who observed him -in passing by, was moved with compassion, and presented him with a -quantity of ground-nuts, which was a very seasonable supply. Scarcely -had the old woman left him, before he received information that the -nephew of the King of Kasson, who had been sent by his uncle on an -embassy to the King of Kajaaga, and was now returning to his own -country, was about to pay him a visit. He came accordingly, and upon -Park’s representing to him his situation and distresses, kindly offered -to be his guide and protector as far as Kasson. With him, therefore, -our traveller now continued his route to the banks of the Senegal, -upon crossing which, his royal guide, who, like other guides, required -a present for his services, informed him they were in his uncle’s -dominions, and in complete safety. - -Safe or not safe, however, Park soon found that the stranger and the -traveller were nowhere beyond the reach of extortion. Half of the -little property which had escaped the fangs of the Kajaaga people, was -here taken from him. He was then permitted to depart. Among the honest -negroes with whom he had set out from Pisania, on the Gambia, there was -a blacksmith from the interior, who, having amassed some little money -upon the coast, was now returning to spend the remainder of his days -in his native land. Shortly after quitting Teesee, the last place where -our traveller had submitted to legal robbery, he and his companions -came within sight of the blacksmith’s village. The news of his return -had, it seems, preceded him. His brother, accompanied by a singing-man, -came forth to welcome the wanderer home, and brought along with him a -horse, that the blacksmith “might enter his native town in a dignified -manner.” Park and his companions were desired to put a good charge of -powder into their guns. The singing-man led the way; the two brothers -followed; and the cavalcade was quickly joined by a considerable number -of the inhabitants, who, by extravagant gestures and songs of triumph, -testified their joy at the return of their townsman. “When we arrived -at the blacksmith’s place of residence, we dismounted, and fired our -muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was very tender; -for these rude children of nature, freed from restraint, display their -emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner.--Amid these -transports, the blacksmith’s aged mother was led forth, leaning upon a -staff. Every one made way for her; and she stretched out her hand to -bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his hands, and -arms, and face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that her -latter days were blessed by his return, and that her ears once more -heard the music of his voice. From this interview, I was convinced, -that whatever difference there is between the Negro and European in the -conformation of the nose, and the colour of their skin, there is none -in the genuine sympathies and characteristic feelings of our common -nature. - -“During the tumult of these congratulations, I had seated myself -apart, by the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt -the flow of filial and parental tenderness; and the attention of the -company was so entirely taken up with the blacksmith, that I believe -none of his friends had observed me. When all the people present had -seated themselves, the blacksmith was desired by his father to give -some account of his adventures; and silence being commanded he began; -and after repeatedly thanking God for the success that had attended -him, related every material occurrence that had happened to him from -his leaving Kasson to his arrival at the Gambia; his employment and -success in those parts; and the dangers he had escaped in returning -to his native country. In the latter part of his narration, he had -frequent occasion to mention me; and after many strong expressions -concerning my kindness to him, he pointed to the place where I sat, and -exclaimed, _Affille ibi siring_ (see him sitting there). In a moment -all eyes were turned upon me. I appeared like a being dropped from the -clouds, every one was surprised that they had not observed me before; -and a few women and children expressed great uneasiness at being so -near a man of such an uncommon appearance. By degrees, however, their -apprehensions subsided, and when the blacksmith assured them I was -perfectly inoffensive, some of them ventured so far as to examine the -texture of my clothes; but many of them were still very suspicious, -and when by accident I happened to move myself, or look at the young -children, their mothers would scamper off with them with the greatest -precipitation. In a few hours, however, they all became reconciled to -me.” - -With these honest people Park remained during the whole of that day and -the next, and then, accompanied by the worthy blacksmith, who declared -he would not quit him during his stay in that part of the country, set -forward towards Kooniakary. On his arrival at this city he obtained -an audience of the king, a fine old man, who, for his conduct both in -peace and war, was greatly beloved by his subjects. His behaviour -towards the stranger was not inconsistent with this character. He -informed him with apparent regret, that the direct route to Bambarra -was about to be closed by war, but, after vainly advising his guest to -retrace his footsteps, added, that there yet remained some hopes of -peace, respecting the validity of which he should be able to pronounce -an opinion in the course of four or five days. In the mean while he -invited Park to remain in the neighbourhood. - -On the 1st of February, 1796, the king’s messenger returned from the -contiguous kingdom of Kaarta, bringing intelligence that the Bambarra -army had not yet entered the country, and that it was possible the -traveller might be enabled to traverse it before the invasion should -take place. Accordingly, being provided with two guides by the king, -Park took leave of his friend the blacksmith, and set forward on his -dangerous journey. The country, at all times thickly peopled, now -swarmed with fugitives, whom the fear of the Bambarrans had terrified -from their homes. The scenery in many places was romantically wild. “On -coming within sight of the mountains of Foolado, we travelled,” says -Park, “with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt precipice, and -continued our way in the bed of a dried river-course, where the trees -meeting over our heads, made the place dark and cool. In a little time -we reached the bottom of this romantic glen; and about ten o’clock -emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the -level and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a korree, or -watering-place, where, for a few strings of beads, I purchased as much -milk and corn-meal as we could eat; and indeed provisions are here so -cheap, and the shepherds live in such affluence, that they seldom ask -any return for what refreshment a traveller receives from them.” - -From this place, having prevailed upon his landlord, a Mohammedan -negro, to accompany him as a guide to Kemmoo, our traveller set forward -on the 11th of February. He observes, “We had no sooner got into a -dark and lonely part of the first wood, than he made a sign for us -to stop; and taking hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an -amulet round his neck, whistled very loud three times. I confess I was -somewhat startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his companions -to come and attack us; but he assured me it was done merely with a view -to ascertain what success we were likely to meet with on our present -journey. He then dismounted, laid his spear across the road, and having -said a number of short prayers, concluded with three loud whistles; -after which he listened for some time, as if in expectation of an -answer, and receiving none, told us we might proceed without fear, for -there was no danger.” - -Adventures now appeared to crowd upon our traveller. The country -through which their road lay being thickly sprinkled with wild -fruit-trees, they amused themselves as they rode slowly along with -picking and eating the fruit. “In this pursuit,” says Park, “I had -wandered a little from my people, and being uncertain whether they were -before or behind me, I hastened to a rising ground to look about me. -As I was proceeding towards this eminence, two negro horsemen, armed -with muskets, came galloping from among the bushes. On seeing them I -made a full stop; the horsemen did the same; and all three of us seemed -equally surprised and confounded at this interview. As I approached -them their fears increased, and one of them, after casting on me a -look of horror, rode off at full speed; the other, in a panic of fear, -put his hand over his eyes, and continued muttering prayers until his -horse, seemingly without his rider’s knowledge, conveyed him slowly -after his companion. About a mile to the westward they fell in with my -attendants, to whom they related a frightful story; it seems their -fears had dressed me in the flowing robes of a tremendous spirit; and -one of them affirmed, that when I made my appearance, a cold blast of -wind came pouring down upon him from the sky, like so much cold water.” - -Shortly after this they arrived at the capital of Kaarta, where he -was an object of such extraordinary curiosity to the populace, the -majority of whom had never before seen a white man, that they burst -forcibly into his hut, crowd after crowd. Those who had beheld the -monster giving way to those who had not, until, as he observes, the hut -was filled and emptied thirteen different times. Here he found that -the war with Bambarra had actually commenced; that all communication -between the countries had consequently ceased; and that, if it was his -determination to persevere, it would be necessary to take a circuitous -route through the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar. The people of Kaarta -were Mohammedans; but there is a variety in church discipline even -among these inflexible fanatics; for, instead of the fine sonorous -voice of the muezzin, by which the faithful are elsewhere summoned to -their devotions, the hour of prayer was here announced by the beating -of drums, and blowing through large elephant’s teeth, hollowed out in -such a manner as to resemble buglehorns. The sound of these horns our -traveller thought melodious, and approaching nearer to the human voice -than any other artificial sound. Being very desirous to depart from the -seat of war, Park presented his horse-pistols and holsters to the king; -and on pressing to be dismissed, received in return an escort of eight -horsemen to conduct him to Jarra. Three of the king’s sons, with two -hundred horsemen, kindly undertook to accompany him a little way on his -journey. - -On his arrival at Jarra, in the kingdom of Ludamar, he despatched a -messenger to Ali, who was then encamped near Benowm, -soliciting permission to pass unmolested through his territories; and -having waited fourteen days for his reply, a slave at length arrived -from the chief, affirming that he had been instructed to conduct the -traveller in safety as far as Goomba. His negro, Johnson, here refused -to follow him any further, and signified his intention of pushing back -without delay to Gambia; upon which Park, fearful of the success of his -enterprise, intrusted him with a copy of his journal, reserving another -for himself, directing him to deliver the papers to the English on the -coast. A portion of his baggage and apparel he committed to the care -of a slave-merchant at Jarra, who was known to Dr. Laidley. He then -departed with his slave-boy, accompanied by the chief’s messenger. On -the road our traveller was robbed once more by the Moors, who added -insult to violence; and when he was nearly perishing for thirst, beat -away his faithful slave from the wells, without permitting him to draw -water. - -However, after much fatigue and extraordinary privations, they arrived -in Ali’s camp at Benowm, where Park was immediately -surrounded by crowds of fanatical Moors, attracted partly by curiosity, -partly from a desire to vent their fierce zeal against a Christian. -“My arrival,” says he, “was no sooner observed than the people, who -drew water at the wells, threw down their buckets; those in the tents -mounted their horses, and men, women, and children came running or -galloping towards me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd, -that I could scarcely move; one pulled my clothes, another took off -my hat; a third stopped me to examine my waistcoat buttons, and a -fourth called out ‘La illah el allah Mahamet rasowl allahi,’ and -signified, in a threatening manner, that I must repeat those words. -We reached at length the king’s tent, where we found a great number -of people, men, women, and children, assembled. Ali was sitting on -a black leathern cushion, clipping a few hairs from his upper lip--a -female attendant holding up a looking-glass before him. He appeared -to be an old man of the Arab cast, with a long white beard, and he -had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with attention, -and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic; being answered in -the negative, he appeared much surprised, and continued silent. The -surrounding attendants, and particularly the ladies, were abundantly -more inquisitive; they asked a thousand questions, inspected every -part of my apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my -waistcoat and display the whiteness of my skin; they even counted my -toes and fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human -being.” - -Ali now, with the base idea of insulting an unprotected stranger, -ordered a wild boar to be brought in, which he signified his desire -that Park should kill and eat. This, well knowing their religious -prejudices, he of course refused to do; upon which the boys who led in -the boar were commanded to let it loose upon him, the Moors supposing -that there exists an inveterate feud between pigs and Christians, and -that it would immediately run upon and gore him. The boar, however, -was more magnanimous. Scorning to attack a defenceless foreigner, he -no sooner found himself at liberty than, brandishing his tusks at the -natives, he rushed at them indiscriminately, and then, to complete -the consternation, took shelter under the very couch upon which -the tyrant was sitting. This bold proceeding of the unclean beast -dissolved the assembly, and the traveller was led away to the tent of -a slave, in front of which, not being permitted to enter, he received -a little food. Here he likewise passed the night lying upon the sand, -surrounded by the curious multitude. Next day, a hut, constructed -with corn-stalks, was given him; but the abovementioned boar, which -had been recaptured, was tied to a stake in the corner of it, as his -fittest companion. - -By degrees, however, the Moors began to conceive that the Christian -might in one way or another be rendered useful, but could think of -no better employment for him than that of a barber. In this capacity -he made his first attempt, in the royal presence, on the head of the -young prince of Ludamar. This dignified office he had no great desire -to monopolize, and his unskilfulness in performing the operation, for -he almost at the outset made an incision in the young prince’s head, -quickly reduced him once more to the rank of a common mortal. Ali -seemed by no means desirous, however, of dispensing altogether with his -services, wishing perhaps to preserve him from the same motives which -induce us to preserve a wild beast; and therefore, to render his escape -the more impracticable, took possession of the whole of his baggage, -including his gold, amber, watch, and one of his pocket compasses; the -other he had fortunately buried in the sand composing the floor of his -hut. The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, but -the pocket compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity. -“Ali was very desirous to be informed, why that small piece of iron, -the needle, always pointed to the Great Desert, and I found myself -somewhat puzzled to answer the question. To have pleaded my ignorance, -would have created a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth -from him; I therefore told him that my mother resided far beyond the -sands of Sahara, and that while she was alive, the piece of iron would -always point that way, and serve as a guide to conduct me to her; and -that if she was dead, it would point to her grave. Ali now looked -at the compass with redoubled amazement; turned it round and round -repeatedly, but observing that it always pointed the same way, he took -it up with great caution, and returned it to me, manifesting that he -thought there was something of magic in it, and that he was afraid of -keeping so dangerous an instrument in his possession.” - -It now began to be debated between Ali and his advisers what should -be done with their prisoner. Their decisions were very dissimilar. -Some were of opinion that he should be put to death; others that he -should merely lose his right hand; while a third party thought that -his eyes ought to be put out. Ali himself, however, determined that -matters should remain as they were until his queen Fatima, then in -the north, had seen him. Meanwhile all these reports were related to -our traveller, and tended not a little to distress and agitate his -mind. His demand to be permitted to depart was formally refused. The -accumulated horrors of his situation, united with the want of food and -sleep, at length brought on a fever, by which his life was endangered. -But his persecution from the Moors did not therefore cease. They -plucked his cloak from him; they overwhelmed him with insults; they -tortured him like some ferocious animal, for their amusement; and when, -to escape from this detestable thraldom, he crawled away to a short -distance from the camp, he was forced back by menaces and violence. - -At length, after more than a month’s detention at Benowm, he was -commanded to follow Ali to the northern encampment of Bubaker, on the -skirts of the Great Desert, and on the way endured the extremity of -hunger, thirst, and fatigue. Upon arriving at Bubaker, he was shown -as a strange animal to Fatima; who, though far from being exempt from -the Moorish prejudices against a Christian, or in any remarkable -degree disposed to humanity, still treated him with somewhat greater -lenity than the rest of the Moors; and, upon the departure of her -husband for Jarra, not only obtained him permission to join the party, -but prevailed upon the tyrant to restore him his horse, saddle, and -bridle, together with a part of his apparel. His faithful black boy -Demba, however, was taken from him, notwithstanding his animated -remonstrances to Ali, who, upon his pressing the point rather warmly, -only replied, that if he did not instantly mount his horse and depart, -he should share the fate of his slave. “There is something in the frown -of a tyrant,” says Park, “which rouses the most secret emotions of -the heart; I could not suppress my feelings; and for once entertained -an indignant wish to rid the world of such a monster. Poor Demba was -not less affected than myself; he had formed a strong attachment -towards me, and had a cheerfulness of disposition which often beguiled -the tedious hours of captivity; he was likewise a proficient in the -Bambarra tongue, and promised, on that account, to be of great use to -me in future. But it was in vain to expect any thing favourable to -humanity from a people who are strangers to its dictates. So having -shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with his, -assuring him, however, I would do the best to redeem him, I saw him led -off by three of Ali’s slaves towards the camp at Bubaker.” - -Upon his arrival at Jarra, where he was shortly afterward transferred -by Ali to tyrants of a lower grade, his condition, far from being -improved, was only rendered the more intolerable. The city itself, -moreover, was in a state of the utmost confusion. Malcontents from -Kaarta having taken refuge here, had recently made an incursion into -their native country, carried off a large quantity of plunder, and thus -drawn the vengeance of their king against the city. All those who had -reason to dread his resentment were now, therefore, preparing to fly -into Bambarra; and Park, whose route lay in the same direction, became -exceedingly desirous of effecting his escape from the Moors, that he -might seize upon this fortunate occasion of fulfilling the object -of his mission. “Their departure,” says he, speaking of the black -fugitives, “was very affecting: the women and children crying, the men -sullen and dejected, and all of them looking back with regret on their -native town; and on the wells and rocks beyond which their ambition had -never tempted them to stray, and where they had laid all their plans of -future happiness; all of which they were now forced to abandon, and to -seek shelter among strangers.” - -Hoping to escape in this confused throng, he mounted his horse; and -taking a bag of corn before him, rode slowly off along with the -townspeople. On their arrival at Queira, a village at no great distance -from the city, Park began to flatter himself that he had really eluded -the vigilance of his persecutors; but before the agreeable idea had got -a firm footing in his mind, he saw Ali’s chief slave, accompanied by -four Moors, arrive, and take up their lodgings with the dooty. Johnson, -our traveller’s interpreter, suspecting the design of this visit, sent -two boys to overhear their conversation, by which means he learned that -it was their intention to carry Park back to Bubaker. Upon this he at -once came to the desperate resolution to effect his deliverance that -very night from his pursuers, or to perish in the attempt. Johnson, who -applauded this determination, but wanted the courage to imitate it, was -nevertheless exceedingly well disposed to aid in effecting his master’s -escape. He therefore undertook to keep watch upon the movements of the -enemy, while Park was preparing for flight. About midnight he got all -his apparel in readiness, which consisted of two shirts, two pair of -trousers, two pocket-handkerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a -hat, a pair of half-boots, and a cloak. Besides these things he had -not in his possession a single bead, or any other article, with which -to purchase food for himself, or provender for his horse:--“About -daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors all night, -came,” says he, “and whispered to me that they were all asleep. The -awful crisis was now arrived when I was again either to taste the -blessings of freedom, or languish out my days in captivity. A cold -sweat moistened my forehead as I thought of the dreadful alternative, -and reflected that one way or the other, my fate must be decided in -the course of the ensuing day. But to deliberate was to lose the only -chance of escaping. So taking up my bundle, I stepped gently over the -negroes who were sleeping in the open air; and, having mounted my -horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care of -the papers I had intrusted him with, and inform my friends in Gambia -that he had left me in good health on my way to Bambarra. I proceeded -with great caution, surveying each bush, and frequently listening and -looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was about a mile -from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the neighbourhood -of a korree, belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed me for -about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me; and when I was out -of their reach, and had begun to indulge the pleasing hope of escaping, -I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody halloo behind me; and -looking back I saw three Moors on horseback, coming after me at full -speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrel guns: I knew it was -in vain to think of escaping, and therefore turned back and met them; -when two of them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the -third, presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali.” - -It soon appeared, however, that these gentlemen were merely private -robbers, who were fearful that their master had not sufficiently -pillaged the stranger; for, after examining his bundle, and plundering -him of his cloak, they bade him begone, and follow them no further. Too -happy to be rid of the villains at any rate, he immediately struck -into the woods, and continued his journey. His joy at thus escaping -from the Moors was quickly damped by the consideration that he must -very soon be in want of both food and water, neither of which could he -procure without approaching villages or wells, where he would almost -inevitably encounter his old enemies. He therefore pushed on with all -the vigour of which he was possessed, in the hope of reaching some -town or village of the kingdom of Bambarra. But he already began to -experience the tortures of thirst. His mouth was parched and inflamed; -a sudden dimness, accompanied by symptoms of fainting, would frequently -come over his eyes; and as his horse also was exceedingly fatigued, -he began to apprehend that he should perish of thirst. Some shrubs, -the leaves of which he chewed to relieve the burning pain in his mouth -and throat, were all found to be bitter and of no service. “A little -before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising,” says Park, -“I climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a -melancholy look over the barren wilderness, but without discovering the -most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of -shrubs and sand everywhere presented itself, and the horizon was level -and uninterrupted as that of the sea. - -“Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and -brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt -walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought it -but an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it -in my power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for -himself; in doing which, I was affected with sickness and giddiness; -and, falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast -approaching. Here then (thought I), after a short but ineffectual -struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in my day and -generation--here must the short span of my life come to an end. I -cast, as I believed, a last look on the surrounding scene, and while -I reflected on the awful change that was about to take place, this -world and its enjoyments seemed to vanish from my recollection. Nature, -however, at length resumed its functions; and on recovering my senses -I found myself stretched upon the sand, with the bridle still in my -hand, and the sun just sinking behind the trees. I now summoned all -my resolution, and determined to make another effort to prolong my -existence: and, as the evening was somewhat cool, I resolved to travel -as far as my limbs would carry me, in hopes of reaching (my only -resource) a watering-place. With this view I put the bridle upon my -horse, and driving him before me, went slowly along for about an hour, -when I perceived some lightning from the north-east--a most delightful -sight, for it promised rain. The darkness and lightning increased very -rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring behind the -bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive the refreshing drops -which I expected: but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, -driven with such force by the wind as to give a very disagreeable -sensation to my face and arms; and I was obliged to mount my horse and -stop under a bush to prevent being suffocated. The sand continued to -fly for near an hour in amazing quantities, after which I again set -forward, and travelled with difficulty until ten o’clock. About this -time I was agreeably surprised by some very vivid flashes of lightning, -followed by a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time the sand ceased -to fly, and I alighted and spread out all my clean clothes to collect -the rain, which at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than an -hour it rained plentifully, and I quenched my thirst by wringing and -sucking my clothes. - -“There being no moon, it was remarkably dark; so that I was obliged to -lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning -enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable -expedition until past midnight; when the lightning became more distant, -and I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small danger -of my hands and eyes. About two o’clock my horse started at something; -and, looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a light at -a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a town, I -groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or -other appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached, I -perceived a number of other lights in different places, and began to -suspect that I had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my present -situation, I was resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with -safety. I accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the light, and -heard by the lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues of the -herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged to -the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to me, I -resolved once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the risk -of perishing with hunger, than trust myself again in their hands; but -being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day, I -thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find -at no great distance. In this pursuit I inadvertently approached so -near one of the tents as to to be perceived by a woman, who immediately -screamed out. The people came running to her assistance from some of -the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near me that I thought I was -discovered, and hastened again into the woods. - -“About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise, -somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy -to find it was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my -ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow -muddy pools, so full of frogs that it was difficult to discern the -water. The noise they made frightened my horse, and I was obliged to -keep them quiet by beating the water with a branch until he had drunk. -Having here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning -being clear, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering-place which -I had passed in the night, and observed another pillar of smoke, -east-southeast, distant 12 or 14 miles.” - -Towards this column of smoke, which, as he was informed, arose from -a Foulah village, he now directed his course; but on arriving at the -place, was inhospitably driven from every door, except that of an old -woman, who kindly received him into her dwelling, and furnished him -with food for himself and with provender for his horse. Even here, -however, the influence of Ali pursued him like his evil genius. The -people who had collected round him while he was eating, began, as -he clearly discovered from their expressions, to form the design of -carrying him back once more to Benowm or Bubaker. He therefore hastened -his departure, and having wandered among the woods all day, passed the -night under a tree. In this way he continued his journey, sometimes -meeting with hospitality, but more frequently avoiding the dwellings of -man, and subsisting upon the wild produce of the woods, and the water -of a few pools, to which the croaking of the frogs directed him. - -At length he entered the kingdom of Bambarra, where he found the people -more hospitable in proportion as they were more opulent than their -neighbours. Cultivation was here carried on in a spirited manner and -on an extensive scale, and “hunger,” as the natives expressed it, -“was never known.” The country itself was beautiful, intersected on -all sides by rivulets, which, after a rain-storm, were swelled into -rapid streams. Park’s horse was now so attenuated by fatigue that it -appeared like a mere skeleton, which the traveller, fearing to mount, -drove before him, as if to scare away the crows. The Bambarrans, whose -hospitable disposition was accompanied by but little delicacy, were -infinitely amused at this droll spectacle. Taking him for a Moor, they -supposed from his appearance that he must be one of those religious -mendicants who, having performed the pilgrimage to the holy cities, -thenceforward consider themselves fully entitled to subsist upon the -labours of their industrious coreligionists. “‘He has been at Mecca,’ -said one; ‘you may see that by his clothes.’ Another asked if my horse -was sick; a third wished to purchase it, &c. So that I believe the very -slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company.” - -However, in spite of all this laughter and ridicule, he proceeded on -his way, and at length had the satisfaction to be informed that on the -morrow he should see the Niger, denominated _Joliba_, or the “Great -Water,” by the natives. Next morning, the 21st of July, after passing -through several large villages, he saw the smoke ascend over Sego, -the capital of Bambarra, and felt elate with joy at the thought of -drawing near so important an object of his mission. “As we approached -the town,” says Park, “I was fortunate enough to overtake the fugitive -Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted in my journey -through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce me to the king, and -we rode together through some marshy ground, where, as I anxiously -looked around for the river, one of them called out _Geo affilli_ -(see the water); and, looking forward, I saw with infinite pleasure -the great object of my mission,--the long sought for, majestic Niger, -glittering to the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, -and flowing slowly _to the eastward_. I hastened to the brink, and, -having drunk of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer -to the Great Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned my -endeavours with success.” - -Sego, the capital of Bambarra, consisted of four distinct towns, two -on the northern, and two on the southern bank of the Niger. The king -at this period resided on the southern bank, while Park had arrived on -the opposite side. The communication between the different quarters of -the city was kept up by means of large canoes, which were constantly -passing and repassing; notwithstanding which, so great was the pressure -of passengers, that Park was compelled to wait upwards of two hours -before he could obtain even a chance of being ferried over. Meanwhile, -the prospect before him was novel and striking in the highest degree. -“The view of this extensive city,” he observes, “the numerous canoes -on the river, the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the -surrounding country formed altogether a prospect of civilization and -magnificence which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa.” - -While he was thus waiting for a passage, the news was conveyed to -Mansong that a white man was on the banks of the river coming to see -him. The king, who seems to have been alarmed at this intelligence, -immediately despatched a messenger, who was directed to inform the -stranger that he would not be admitted into the royal presence until -the purport of his mission were made known; and that, in the mean -while, he was prohibited from passing the river. He was likewise told -that the king desired him to seek lodgings in one of the villages in -the vicinity of the capital. As there was no alternative, he at once -set out for the village, where, to his great mortification, he found -that no person would admit him into his house. “I was regarded with -astonishment and fear,” he observes, “and was obliged to sit all day -without victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened to be -very uncomfortable, for the wind rose, and there was great appearance -of a heavy rain; and the wild beasts were so very numerous in the -neighbourhood, that I should have been under the necessity of climbing -up a tree, and resting among the branches. About sunset, however, as -I was preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my -horse loose that he might graze at liberty, a woman returning from -the labours of the field stopped to observe me, and, perceiving that -I was weary and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly -explained to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took -up my saddle and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted -me into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat upon the floor, -and told me I might remain there for the night. Finding that I was very -hungry, she said she would procure me something to eat; she accordingly -went out, and returned in a short time with a very fine fish, which, -having caused to be half-broiled upon some embers, she gave me for -supper. The rites of hospitality being thus performed towards a -stranger in distress, my worthy benefactress, pointing to the mat, and -telling me I might sleep there without apprehension, called to the -female part of her family, who had stood gazing on me all the while in -fixed astonishment, to resume their task of spinning cotton, in which -they continued to employ themselves great part of the night. They -lightened their labour by songs, one of which was composed extempore, -for I was myself the subject of it; it was sung by one of the young -women, the rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air was sweet and -plaintive, and the words literally translated were these:--‘The winds -roared, and the rains fell; the poor white man, faint and weary, came -and sat under our tree; he has no mother to bring him milk, no wife to -grind his corn.’ Chorus:--‘Let us pity the white man, no mother has -he,’ &c. Trifling as this recital may appear to the reader, to a person -in my situation the circumstance was affecting in the highest degree. -I was oppressed by such unexpected kindness that sleep fled my eyes. In -the morning I presented my compassionate landlady with two of the four -brass buttons which remained on my waistcoat, the only recompense I -could make her.” - -Although Mansong refused to admit our traveller into his presence, and -seemed at first to neglect him, it soon appeared that this conduct did -not arise from any churlish or inhospitable feelings; for while he -persisted in his refusal to see him, and signified his pleasure that he -should forthwith depart from the city, he sent him a present of five -thousand cowries and a guide to Sansanding. Park immediately obeyed -the royal command, and learned from the conversation of his guide on -the way, that the king’s motives for thus dismissing him without an -audience were at once prudent and liberal, since he feared that by the -least show of favour he should excite the jealousy and envy of the -Moorish inhabitants, from whose inveterate malice he might be unable to -protect him. - -With this guide he proceeded to Sansanding, where he was hospitably -received by the dooty, and would, as the king’s stranger, have enjoyed -much quiet and consideration, had he not had the misfortune to meet -with some of his old enemies the Moors, who insisted on conducting him -to the mosque, and converting him into a Mohammedan at once. However, -the dooty, by exerting his authority, freed him from these fanatics, -and ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it dressed for his -supper. “About midnight, when the Moors had left me,” says Park, “he -paid me a visit, and with much earnestness desired me to write him a -saphie. ‘If a Moor’s saphie is good,’ said this hospitable old man, ‘a -white man’s must needs be better.’ I readily furnished him with one -possessed of all the virtues I could concentrate, for it contained the -Lord’s Prayer. The pen with which it was written was made of a reed, a -little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a thin board -answered the purpose of paper.” - -From Sansanding he departed early in the morning, before the Moors -were stirring. The road now lay through the woods, and the guide, who -understood the dangers of the way, moved forward with the greatest -circumspection, frequently stopping and looking under the bushes. Upon -observing this, Park inquired the reason, and was told that lions were -very plentiful in that part of the country, and very often attacked -travellers in the woods. While they were conversing on this subject -Park discovered a camelopard at a little distance, the fore-legs of -which, from a hasty glance, appeared much longer than the hinder. -“Shortly after this,” says he, “as we were crossing a large open -plain where there were a few scattered bushes, my guide, who was a -little way before me, wheeled his horse round in a moment, calling out -something in the Foulah language which I did not understand. I inquired -in Mandingo what he meant. ‘_Wara billi billi_’ (a very large lion)! -said he, and made signs for me to ride away. But my horse was too much -fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush from which the animal had -given us the alarm. Not seeing any thing myself, however, I thought my -guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to his -mouth, exclaiming, ‘_Soubah an alluhi_’ (God preserve us)! and to my -great surprise I then perceived a large red lion at a short distance -from the bush, with his head couched between his fore-paws. I expected -he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctively pulled my feet -from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse might -become the victim rather than myself. But it is probable the lion was -not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass, though we were fairly -within his reach.” - -About sunset they arrived at Moodiboo, “a delightful village on the -banks of the Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles, both -to the east and west. The small green islands, the peaceful retreat -of some industrious Foulahs, whose cattle were here secure from the -attacks of wild beasts, and the majestic breadth of the river, which -is here much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the -most enchanting in the world.” Park was now so worn out with fatigue -and suffering, that his landlord, fearing he might die in his house, -hurried him away, though he was scarcely able to walk, and his horse -still less able to carry him. In fact, they had not proceeded far -before the poor beast fell down, and could no more be made to rise; -so that, taking off his saddle and bridle, our traveller with extreme -reluctance abandoned him to his fate, and began to toil along on foot -after his guide. In this way they reached Kea, a small fishing-village -on the Niger, where Park embarked in a fisherman’s canoe which was -going down the stream, while the guide returned to Sego. - -In this canoe our traveller reached Moorzan, whence he was conveyed -across the river to Silla, a large town on the opposite shore. It -was with great difficulty that he here obtained admission into the -strangers’ room of the dooty’s house, a damp, uncomfortable place, -where he had a severe paroxysm of fever during the night. Here his -resolution and energy, of which no traveller ever possessed a larger -share, began at length to fail. No hope of success remained. He -therefore, with extreme sorrow and anguish of mind, determined on -returning whence he had come; but let me lay before the reader his -own simple and manly account of the matter, which cannot fail to -impress even the most insensible with veneration for a degree of -courage and intrepidity amounting to heroism. “Worn down by sickness, -exhausted by hunger and fatigue, half-naked, and without any article -of value by which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging, -I began,” says Park, “to reflect seriously on my situation. I was -now convinced by painful experience that the obstacles to my further -progress were insurmountable. The tropical rains had already set in -with all their violence; the rice-grounds and swamps were already -overflowed; and in a few days more travelling of every kind except by -water would be completely obstructed. The cowries which remained of -the King of Bambarra’s present were not sufficient to hire a canoe -for any great distance; and I had but little hopes of subsisting by -charity in a country where the Moors have such influence. But, above -all, I perceived I was advancing more and more within the power of -those merciless fanatics; and from my reception both at Sego and -Sansanding, I was apprehensive that, in attempting to reach even -Jeuné (unless under the protection of some man of consequence among -them, which I had no means of obtaining), I should sacrifice my life -to no purpose; for my discoveries would perish with me. The prospect -either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia, a journey on foot -of many hundred miles presented itself to my contemplation, through -regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this seemed to be the only -alternative; for I saw inevitable destruction in attempting to proceed -to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind, I hope my readers -will acknowledge I did right in going no farther. I had made every -exertion to execute my mission in its fullest extent which prudence -could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect of a successful -termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey nor the -dangers of a second captivity should have forced me to desist. This, -however, necessity compelled me to do.” - -When he had come to this resolution, he thought it incumbent upon -him before he left Silla to collect whatever information might be -within his reach respecting the further course of the Niger, and -the situation and extent of the various kingdoms in its vicinity. -Subsequent travellers have solved the problem, the honour of explaining -which was denied to Park. We now know that this great river, after -having flowed to a considerable distance eastward of Timbuctoo, -makes a bend or elbow like the Burrampooter, and, after pursuing a -south-westerly course, falls into the Atlantic Ocean on the coast of -Benin. - -On the 30th of July our traveller commenced his return westward, by -the same route through which he had reached Silla. In a few days he -recovered his horse, which had in some measure regained its strength, -though it was still too weak to be ridden. The rainy season having now -set in, the whole of the plain country was quickly inundated; so that -our traveller was often in danger of losing his way while traversing -savannahs many miles in extent, knee-deep in water. In several places -he waded breast-deep across the swamps. The huts of the villages in -which he passed the night, being undermined or softened by the rain, -often fell in; and the noise of their fall sometimes kept him awake, -expecting that his own might be the next. His situation was now even -worse than during his progress eastward. A report had been widely -circulated that he was a spy, in consequence of which he was in some -places civilly refused admittance into the towns, in others repulsed -from the gates with violence; so that he now appeared inevitably -doomed to perish of hunger. However, when the fatal hour seemed at -hand, some charitable being always appeared with a poor but seasonable -supply, such, perhaps, as a little raw corn, which prolonged his life, -and supplied him with strength to achieve his memorable journey. “On -the evening of the 15th of August I arrived,” says Park, “at a small -village called Song, the surly inhabitants of which would not receive -me, nor so much as permit me to enter the gate; but as lions were very -numerous in this neighbourhood, and I had frequently in the course of -the day seen the impression of their feet upon the road, I resolved to -stay in the vicinity of the village. Having collected some grass for -my horse, I accordingly laid down under a tree by the gate. About ten -o’clock I heard the hollow roar of a lion at no great distance, and -attempted to open the gate; but the people from within told me that no -person must attempt to enter the gate without the dooty’s permission. -I begged them to inform the dooty that a lion was approaching the -village, and I hoped he would allow me to come within the gate. I -waited for an answer to this message with great anxiety; for the lion -kept prowling round the village, and once advanced so very near me that -I heard him rustling among the grass, and climbed the tree for safety. -About midnight the dooty with some of his people opened the gate, and -desired me to come in. They were convinced, they said, I was not a -Moor; for no Moor ever waited any time at the gate of a village without -cursing the inhabitants.” - -The history of this journey now becomes nothing more than a repetition -of similar sufferings. Hunger, fatigue, and depression of spirits -attack the traveller by turns. Nothing, however, subdues his courage. -Obstacle after obstacle yields to his persevering intrepidity, and -he pushes forward with invincible ardour towards the coast. In one -place, at the request of a native who had grown opulent by industrious -application to commerce, he wrote charms for a good supper; and, -finding the contrivance productive, continued the practice next day for -small presents of various kinds. On other occasions, where superstition -did not come to his aid, humanity interposed, and snatched him from -starvation. At Bammakoo he was hospitably treated, even by a Moor, -who, having travelled to Rio Grande, had conversed with Christians, -and conceived a favourable idea of their character. The rains had now -increased the Niger to a vast size, and rendered impassable almost -every road; but, as our traveller’s finances had long been exhausted, -he found himself compelled to proceed, the charity of the natives -not extending so far as to the maintaining of a stranger for several -months. The ordinary roads being obstructed by the rains, the only -practicable route, wild, dreary, and desolate, lay over steril rocky -mountains, over which, it was feared, a horse could not pass. - -Finding that a singing-man was about to proceed by this road to -Sibidooloo, Park placed himself under his guidance, and quitted -Bammakoo. He had not proceeded far, however, before his companion, -finding that he had taken the wrong path, escaped among the rocks, -and left him to find his way how he might. He soon arrived at a -village, where he was entertained with hospitality, and where he -passed the night. Next day, as he was quietly pursuing his course, -a troop of peasants presented themselves, whom he at first took -for elephant-hunters, but who very shortly proved themselves to be -banditti. Pretending to arrest him in the name of the King of the -Foulahs, they commanded him to follow them, until, having reached a -dark lonely part of a wood, one of them exclaimed in the Mandingo -language, “This place will do!” and immediately snatched his hat from -his head. “Though I was by no means free from apprehension,” says Park, -“yet I was resolved to show as few signs of fear as possible; and -therefore told them, that unless my hat was returned to me I should -proceed no farther. But before I had time to receive an answer another -drew a knife, and, seizing upon a metal button which remained upon my -waistcoat, cut it off, and put it into his pocket. Their intentions -were now obvious; and I thought that the easier they were permitted -to rob me of every thing the less I had to fear. I therefore allowed -them to search my pockets without resistance, and examine every part -of my apparel, which they did with the most scrupulous exactness. -But, observing that I had one waistcoat under another, they insisted -that I should cast them both off; and at last, to make sure work, -stripped me quite naked. Even my half-boots, though the sole of one of -them was tied on to my foot with a broken bridle-rein, were minutely -inspected. While they were examining the plunder, I begged them with -great earnestness to return my pocket-compass; but when I pointed -it out to them, as it was lying on the ground, one of the banditti, -thinking I was about to take it up, cocked his musket, and swore he -would lay me dead upon the spot if I presumed to put my hand upon it. -After this, some of them went away with my horse, and the remainder -stood considering whether they should leave me quite naked, or allow me -something to shelter me from the sun. Humanity at last prevailed; they -returned me the worst of the two shirts and a pair of trousers; and, as -they went away, one of them threw back my hat, in the crown of which I -kept my memorandums; and this was probably the reason why they did not -wish to keep it.” - -This was the most terrible misfortune that had hitherto befallen him, -and at first, his mind appeared to sink under the united influence -of grief and terror. For a while he sat in sullen dejection, -half-persuaded that he had no alternative but to lie down and perish. -Presently, however, thoughts of religion, and a reliance upon -Providence, succeeding this extreme dejection, his mind gradually -regained its fervent tone:-- - -“I was, indeed, a stranger,” he thought, “in a strange land; yet I was -still under the protecting eye of that Providence, who has condescended -to call himself the stranger’s friend. At this moment, painful as -my reflections were, the extraordinary beauty of a small moss in -fructification irresistibly caught my eye. I mention this to show from -what trifling circumstances the mind will sometimes derive consolation; -for though the whole plant was not larger than the top of one of my -fingers, I could not contemplate the delicate conformation of its -roots, leaves, and capsula without admiration. Can that Being (thought -I) who planted, watered, and brought to perfection, in this obscure -part of the world, a thing which appears of so small importance, look -with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of creatures formed -after his own image? Surely not! Reflections like these would not allow -me to despair; I started up, and, disregarding both danger and fatigue, -travelled forwards, assured that relief was at hand; and I was not -disappointed.” - -On arriving at Sibidooloo, Park related to the mansa, or chief of the -town, the misfortune which had befallen him. This humane and excellent -man, having heard him patiently to an end, took the pipe from his -mouth, and tossing up the sleeve of his coat with an indignant air, -“Sit down,” said he, “you shall have every thing restored to you; I -have sworn it.” He then took the necessary measures for the recovery of -the traveller’s property, and invited him to partake of his hospitable -fare until this should have been effected. After spending a few days at -this place, without hearing any news of his horse or other property, -our traveller removed to a distant village, where he remained until the -whole was discovered and restored to him, with the exception of his -pocket compass, which had been broken to pieces. Having nothing else to -bestow upon his hospitable landlords, he gave his horse to one, and his -saddle and bridle to the other: and then taking his leave, proceeded -on foot to Kamalia. At this town, romantically situated at the foot of -a lofty mountain, he found a slave-merchant, who, intending to descend -to the coast with a small caravan in the beginning of the dry season, -offered our traveller an asylum until he should set out. Conceiving -that it would be impossible to proceed during the rains, Park accepted -his kind proposal, and promised in return to give him the price of a -slave upon their arrival on the coast. Here a fever, which had for some -time menaced him, manifested itself with great violence, and continued -to torment him during the whole season of the rains. His landlord, -meanwhile, exerted himself to keep up his hopes, and having by some -means or another obtained possession of an English Common Prayer Book, -he communicated the use of it to Park, who was thus enabled to beguile -the gloomy hours of his solitude and sickness. At length the rains -became less frequent, and the fever abated, so that he could move out -to enjoy the fresh air in the fields. - -On the 19th of April, Karfa, the slave-merchant, having collected his -slaves, and completed all necessary preparations, set out towards the -coast, taking our traveller, to whom his behaviour had always been -marked by the greatest kindness, along with him. Their road led them -across a vast wilderness, where the sufferings of every member of the -caravan, and more particularly of the slaves, were most exquisite; but -affliction was far from having taught them commiseration, for a fine -young female slave, fainting from fatigue, had no sooner signified -her inability to go on, than the universal cry of the caravan was, -“cut her throat, cut her throat.” By the interposition of Karfa her -life was spared, but she was abandoned on the road, where she was no -doubt soon devoured by wild beasts. At length, after a long, toilsome -journey, Karfa succeeded in fulfilling his promise, and conducted our -traveller safe to Pisania, where the good old man was overwhelmed with -the gratitude of his guest. Park now took his passage in an American -vessel, and on arriving in the West Indies, quitted this ship for a -packet bound for Falmouth, where he arrived on the 22d of December, -1797, after an absence of two years and seven months. - -Immediately on his landing he hastened to London, where he arrived -before daylight on the morning of Christmas-day. It being too early an -hour to call on his brother-in-law, Mr. Dickson, he strolled about for -some time in the neighbouring streets. At length, finding one of the -entrances into the gardens of the British Museum accidentally open, -he went in and walked about there for some time. It happened that Mr. -Dickson, who had the care of those gardens, went there early that -morning on some trifling business. What must have been his emotions on -beholding, at that extraordinary time and place, the vision, as it must -at first have appeared, of his long lost friend, the object of so many -anxious reflections, and whom he had long numbered with the dead. - -He was now received with distinguished honour by the African -Association, and the various literary men whom he met with in London. -In the mean time his travels, which the Association permitted him to -publish on his own account, were announced; and both during his stay -in London, and the visit which he paid to his friends in Scotland, -all his leisure hours were devoted to the compiling and arranging -of the materials for the work. It appeared in the spring of 1799, -and immediately acquired that degree of popularity which it has ever -since maintained. In the composition of his travels, however, he was -assisted by Bryan Edwards, author of a “History of the West Indies,” -an advocate of the slave-trade, in deference to whom Park is said -to have suppressed his own opinions, which had a contrary tendency. -The apology offered for this mean compliance is, that Bryan Edwards, -being secretary to the African Association, had it in his power -greatly to influence the future fortunes of our traveller. I should -prefer supposing that his arguments produced a temporary conviction -upon Park’s mind, unless some more convincing proof than has yet been -brought forward could be adduced to substantiate the accusation of so -remarkable a deficiency of moral courage in a man in whom, on all other -occasions, courage seemed to be the prevailing virtue. - -However this may be, Park again returned to Scotland soon after the -publication of his travels, where, on the 2d of August, 1799, he -married one of the daughters of Mr. Anderson, of Selkirk, with whom -he had served his apprenticeship. He now seemed to have forgotten -his ambitious feelings, and for more than two years resided on the -farm at Fowlshiels, with his mother and one of his brothers. He then -removed to the town of Peebles, where he resumed the practice of his -profession, and seems, in a short time, to have acquired a good share -of the business of the place. But it will easily be imagined that the -quiet obscure life of a country surgeon could possess no charms for -an ardent ambitious mind like Park’s. He longed to be performing upon -some more stirring scene. In this dreary solitude, therefore, where -the indulgence of day-dreams would appear to have been his principal -amusement, scheme after scheme seems to have presented itself to his -mind, each giving way in its turn to another equally impracticable. -At length he received, through the medium of Sir Joseph Banks, -intelligence that the African Association were once more about to send -a mission into the interior of Africa, for the purpose of penetrating -to and navigating the Niger; and that, in case government should enter -into the plan, he himself would certainly be recommended as the person -proper to be employed for carrying it into execution. - -Dilatoriness is too frequently the characteristic of the proceedings -of great public bodies. The first idea of this new mission was -conceived in 1801, but it was not until the beginning of 1805 that -the expedition was ultimately determined on, when Park received from -Lord Camden his appointment as its chief conductor. “For the better -enabling you to execute this service,” says his lordship, “his majesty -has granted you the brevet commission of captain in Africa, and has -also granted a similar commission of lieutenant to Mr. Alexander -Anderson, whom you have recommended as a proper person to accompany -you. Mr. Scott has also been selected to attend you as draughtsman. You -are hereby empowered to enlist with you for this expedition any number -you think proper of the garrison at Goree, not exceeding forty-five, -which the commandant of that island will be ordered to place under your -command, giving them such bounties or encouragement as may be necessary -to induce them cheerfully to join with you in the expedition.” - -Five thousand pounds were at the same time placed at Park’s disposal, -and further directions given him respecting the course and line of -conduct he was expected to pursue. With these instructions Park and -his companions proceeded to Portsmouth, where they were joined by four -or five artificers, appointed for the service from the dock-yards. -They sailed on the 30th of January, and on the 28th of April arrived -at Pisania. Here they made preparations for entering the interior. The -party consisted of forty men, two lieutenants, a draughtsman, a guide, -and Park himself. Their provisions and merchandise were carried by -asses, and they had horses for themselves. Thus appointed, they left -Pisania on the 4th of May. It was very quickly discovered, however, -that their asses were unequal to the task imposed upon them; some lay -down, others kicked off their burdens, and it became necessary to -increase the number of these vicious animals. - -At Bady, a town in the interior frontier of Woolli, they were led into -a quarrel with the farauba, or chief of the town, respecting the -amount of duties to be paid by their caravan, in which, though the -conduct of the African was rude and peremptory, the travellers were -clearly in the wrong. A few days after this affair the caravan had an -adventure with a new species of enemy. On the 24th of May they reached -a place which they denominated Bee’s Creek, where they halted with the -intention of encamping there. “We had no sooner unloaded the asses at -the creek,” says Park, “than some of Isaaco’s people, being in search -of honey, unfortunately disturbed a large swarm of bees near where the -coffle had halted. The bees came out in immense numbers, and attacked -men and beasts at the same time. Luckily, most of the asses were loose, -and galloped up the valley; but the horses and people were very much -stung, and obliged to scamper in all directions. The fire which had -been kindled for cooking, having been deserted, spread and set fire to -the bamboos; and our baggage had like to have been burnt. In fact, for -half an hour the bees seemed to have put an end to our journey. - -“In the evening, when the bees became less troublesome, and we could -venture to collect our cattle, we found that many of them were very -much stung and swelled about the head. Three asses were missing; one -died in the evening and one next morning, and we were compelled to -leave one at Sibikillin; in all six: besides which, our guide lost his -horse, and many of the people were very much stung about the face and -hands.” - -About the middle of June the rains began to set in, accompanied -by violent tornadoes. The earth was quickly covered with water. -The soldiers were affected with vomiting, or with an irresistible -inclination to sleep. Our traveller himself was affected in a similar -manner during the storm, and, notwithstanding that he used every -exertion to keep away heaviness, at length fell asleep on the damp -ground. The soldiers did the same thing. In the morning twelve of -them were sick. In this vicinity he saw many pits, from which gold was -obtained in large quantities by washing. As the caravan proceeded, many -of the soldiers growing delirious, or too weak to continue the march, -were left behind to the care of the natives; while others died on the -road, or were drowned in the rivers. Some, still more unfortunate if -possible, were lost in the woods, where they were no doubt devoured -by wild beasts. Meanwhile the natives, who imagined that the caravan -contained prodigious wealth, hung upon their march, plundered them -at every turn, and as often as they appeared too weak to resist, -endeavoured to extort presents from them. - -The condition of the men now became desperate. Day after day some poor -wretch was abandoned to his fate, some in one way, some in another. -I give one example which may serve for the whole. “Three miles east -of the village of Koombandi,” says Park, “William Alston, one of the -seamen whom I received from his majesty’s ship Squirrel, became so -faint that he fell from his ass, and allowed the ass to run away. -Set him on my horse, but found he could not sit without holding him. -Replaced him on the ass, but he still tumbled off. Put him again on the -horse, and made one man hold him upright while I led the horse; but, as -he made no exertion to hold himself erect, it was impossible to keep -him on the horse, and after repeated tumbles he begged to be left in -the woods till morning. I left a loaded pistol with him, and put some -cartridges into the crown of his hat.” - -In crossing the Wondu the caravan was nearly deprived of its guide in -the following manner: “Our guide, Isaaco, was very active in pushing -the asses into the water, and shoving along the canoe; but as he was -afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course of -the day, he attempted to drive six of the asses across the river -farther down, where the water was shallower. When he had reached the -middle of the river, a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly -seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful -presence of mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger -into its eye, on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to -reach the farther shore, calling loudly for a knife. But the crocodile -returned and seized him by the other thigh, and again pulled him under -water; he had recourse to the same expedient, and thrust his fingers -into its eyes with such violence that it again quitted him; when it -arose, flounced about on the surface of the water as if stupid, and -then swam down the middle of the river. Isaaco proceeded to the other -side, bleeding very much.” - -This event retarded for several days the march of the caravan. Besides, -Park himself was attacked with fever, and their provisions, moreover, -were now reduced to so low an ebb, that upon examination it was found -that no more than rice for two days remained in their possession. This -deficiency was, therefore, to be immediately supplied. Two persons -were sent away with an ass to a distant village for rice, and in the -mean time our traveller devoted his attentions to the wounds of the -guide. The sailor who had been abandoned in the woods here rejoined -the caravan quite naked, having been robbed of his clothes by the -natives. The audacity of these thieves was extraordinary. In ascending -an eminence two miles from Maniakono, Park himself was robbed in a very -characteristic manner:--“As I was holding my musket carelessly in my -hand, and looking round,” says he, “two of Numma’s sons came up to me; -one of them requested me to give him some snuff; at this instant the -other (called Woosaba), coming up behind me, snatched the musket from -my hand, and ran off with it. I instantly sprung from the saddle and -followed him with my sword, calling to Mr. Anderson to ride back, and -tell some of the people to look after my horse. Mr. Anderson got within -musket-shot of him; but, seeing it was Numma’s son, had some doubts -about shooting him, and called to me if he should fire. Luckily I did -not hear him, or I might possibly have recovered my musket at the risk -of a long palaver, and perhaps the loss of half our baggage. The thief -accordingly made his escape among the rocks; and when I returned to my -horse, I found the other of the royal descendants had stolen my coat.” - -Their condition was now exceedingly distressing. Not only the soldiers -and sailors, but Scott and Anderson began to lag behind, being attacked -by fever, the first effect of which in those countries is to deprive -the sufferer of his energies. Having remained for some time by the -wayside with his dying friend, he placed him, when his strength -appeared for a moment to return, upon his horse, and pushed forward -towards their proposed halting-place, leading the horse by the bridle. -“We had not proceeded above a mile,” says Park, “before we heard on our -left a noise very much like the barking of a large mastiff, but ending -in a hiss like the fuff[1] of a cat. I thought it must be some large -monkey; and was observing to Mr. Anderson, ‘What a bouncing fellow that -must be,’ when we heard another bark nearer to us, and presently a -third still nearer, accompanied with a growl. I now suspected some wild -beast meant to attack us, but could not conjecture of what species it -was likely to be. We had not proceeded a hundred yards farther, when, -coming to an opening in the bushes, I was not a little surprised to -see three lions coming towards us. They were not so red as the lion I -had formerly seen in Bambarra, but of a dusky colour, like that of an -ass. They were very large, and came bounding over the long grass, not -one after another, but all abreast of each other. I was afraid, if I -allowed them to come too near us, and my piece should miss fire, that -we should all be devoured by them. I therefore let go the bridle, and -walked forwards to meet them. As soon as they were within a long shot -of me, I fired at the centre one. I do not think I hit him; but they -all stopped, looked at each other, and then bounded away a few paces, -when one of them stopped and looked back at me. I was too busy in -loading my piece to observe their motions as they went away, and was -very happy to see the last of them march slowly off among the bushes. -We had not proceeded above half a mile farther when we heard another -bark and growl close to us among the bushes. This was, doubtless, one -of the lions before seen; and I was afraid they would follow us till -dark, when they would have too many opportunities of springing on us -unawares. We however heard no more of them.” - -[1] _Fuff_ is an expressive Scotch word, applicable in its original -sense to the explosive noise which a cat makes in flying at a dog. - -At length, from the brow of a hill, Park had once more the satisfaction -of beholding the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain. -But he was in no mood of mind to triumph at the sight. The majority -of his companions had fallen on the way; of thirty-four soldiers -and four carpenters who left the Gambia, only six soldiers and one -carpenter reached the Niger. With this miserable remnant of his -original force he descended the hill, and pitched his tents near -the town of Bambakoo. Here some of the party -embarked in canoes on the Niger, while others proceeded by land to the -neighbourhood of Sego, which they reached on the 19th of September. -Mansong was still king of Bambarra; and being highly gratified with -their presents, not only gave them permission to build a boat on the -Niger at whatever town they pleased, but engaged to protect, as far -as his power extended, the trade of the whites in the interior. Park -selected Sansanding as the place most eligible for building the boat, -and removed thither as quickly as possible. Here immediately on his -arrival he opened a shop, exhibiting a choice assortment of European -goods, which sold so well among the natives that his success excited -the envy of the Jinnic people, the Moors, and the other merchants of -the place, who offered Mansong merchandise to a much greater value than -the presents made him by Park, if he would either kill the strangers or -drive them out of the country. Mansong, however, rejected the offer. -“From the 8th to the 16th nothing of consequence occurred; I found my -shop every day more and more crowded with customers; and such was my -run of business, that I was sometimes forced to employ three tellers -at once to count my cash. I turned one market-day twenty-five thousand -seven hundred and fifty-six pieces of money (cowries).” - -Park now received intelligence of the death of Mr. Scott, who had been -left behind near Bambakoo. Mansong very soon convinced the traveller -that he understood the art of receiving presents much better than that -of returning them; for upon being requested to furnish a canoe in -which the mission, now reduced to a very small number, might embark -on the Niger, he sent one after another several half-rotten barks; -two of which Park, seeing no hope of getting better, was at length -compelled to accept, and with these he constructed what he termed a -schooner. Shortly after this he lost his friend Anderson, upon whose -death “I felt myself,” says he, “as if left a second time lonely and -friendless amid the wilds of Africa.” Dreary and perilous as was his -position, however, he still determined to persevere. His companions -were now reduced to four, Lieutenant Martyn and three soldiers, one -of whom was deranged in his mind; yet with this wretched remnant of -a detachment which, it must be confessed, had been thus thinned, or -rather annihilated, by his own ill management and want of foresight, he -purposed following the course of the Niger to its termination, whether -that should prove to be in some great lake or inland sea, or, as he -rather believed, in the Atlantic Ocean. And this voyage, says one of -his biographers, one of the most formidable ever attempted, was to be -undertaken in a crazy and ill-appointed vessel, manned by a few negroes -and a few Europeans! - -On the 16th of November, having completed all the necessary -preparations for his voyage, our traveller put the finishing hand to -his journal; and in the interval between that and his embarkation, -which seems to have taken place on the 19th, wrote several letters to -England. These letters, together with the journal, were then delivered -to his guide Isaaco, by whom they were conveyed to the Gambia, from -whence they were transmitted to England; after which nothing certain -or authentic can be said to have been heard either of Park or the -expedition. In 1806, however, vague accounts of the death of Park and -his companions were brought to the British settlements on the coast by -the native traders from the interior; but several years elapsed without -any further intelligence being obtained. At length, in 1810, Colonel -Maxwell, governor of Senegal, despatched Park’s guide, Isaaco, into the -interior, for the purpose of ascertaining the truth or falsehood of the -reports which prevailed, and, should they prove correct, of collecting -information respecting the place and manner of the catastrophe. - -After an absence of one year and eight months Isaaco returned to -Senegal, and delivered to the governor a journal of his proceedings, -including a narrative which he had received from Amadi Fatouma, -the guide who accompanied Park from Sansanding down the Niger. The -particulars of Isaaco’s adventures it is altogether unnecessary to -describe. He found Amadi Fatouma at Madina, a village distant a few -hours from Sansanding. On seeing Isaaco, and hearing the name of Park, -he began to weep; and his first words were, “They are all dead.” The -recollection of the melancholy transaction appeared to affect him in -an extraordinary manner, and it was with the utmost reluctance that -he at length consented to recall to memory an event which he seemed -peculiarly desirous of delivering over to oblivion. However, upon the -pressing entreaties of Isaaco, he narrated circumstantially what had -taken place. Upon leaving Sansanding, there were, he said, nine persons -in the canoe; Park, Martyn, three other white men, three slaves, and -himself as their guide and interpreter. They had proceeded but a very -little way down the river before they were pursued and attacked by the -Africans in canoes, particularly in passing Timbuctoo, where a great -number of the natives were killed. Shortly after passing Goronmo, they -lost one white man by sickness. They were now, therefore, reduced to -eight; but as each person had always fifteen muskets loaded and ready -for action, they were still formidable to their enemies. - -As Park had laid in a considerable quantity of provisions previous to -his leaving Sansanding, he was enabled to proceed for several days -without stopping at any place, which is the only circumstance that -can account for his passing in safety through the country of so many -hostile nations. At length, however, their wants compelled them to have -some communication with the shore. “We came,” says Amadi Fatouma, “near -a small island, and saw some of the natives; I was sent on shore to buy -some milk. When I got among them, I saw two canoes go on board to sell -fresh provisions, such as fowls, rice, &c. One of the natives wanted to -kill me, and at last he took hold of me, and said I was his prisoner. -Mr. Park, seeing what was passing on shore, suspected the truth. He -stopped the two canoes and people; telling the latter, that if they -should kill me, or keep me prisoner on shore, he would kill them all, -and carry their canoes away with him. Those on shore, suspecting Mr. -Park’s intentions, sent me off in another canoe on board; they were -then released: after which we bought some provisions from them, and -made them some presents. A short time after our departure twenty canoes -came after us from the same place; on coming near, they hailed, and -said, ‘Amadi Fatouma, how can you pass through our country without -giving us any thing?’ I mentioned what they had said to Mr. Park, and -he gave them a few grains of amber and some trinkets, and they went -back peaceably. On coming to a narrow part of the river, we saw on the -shore a great many men sitting down; coming nearer to them they stood -up; we presented our muskets to them, which made them run off into the -interior. A little farther on we came to a very difficult passage. The -rocks had barred the river, but three passages were still open between -them. On coming near one of them, we discovered the same people again, -standing on the top of a large rock; which caused great uneasiness to -us, especially to me, and I seriously promised never to pass there -again without making considerable charitable donations to the poor. We -returned, and went to a pass of less danger, where we passed unmolested. - -“We came-to before Carmassee, and gave the chief one piece of baft. -We went on, and anchored before Gourman. Mr. Park sent me on shore -with forty thousand cowries to buy provisions. I went and bought rice, -onions, fowls, milk, &c., and departed late in the evening. The chief -of the village sent a canoe after us, to let us know of a large army -encamped on the top of a very high mountain, waiting for us; and that -we had better return, or be on our guard. We immediately came to an -anchor, and spent there the rest of the day and all the night. We -started in the morning; on passing the abovementioned mountain we saw -the army, composed of Moors with horses and camels, but without any -firearms. As they said nothing to us we passed on quietly, and entered -the country of Haoussa, and came to an anchor. Mr. Park said to me, -‘Now, Amadi, you are at the end of your journey: I engaged you to -conduct me here; you are going to leave me; but before you go you must -give me the names of the necessaries of life, &c., in the language of -the countries through which I am going to pass;’ to which I agreed, and -we spent two days together about it without landing. During our voyage -I was the only one who had landed. We departed, and arrived at Yaour. I -was sent on shore the next morning with a musket and a sabre to carry -to the chief of the village; also with three pieces of white baft for -distribution. I went and gave the chief his present: I also gave one -to Alhagi, one to Alhagibiron, and the other to a person whose name -I forget; all Marabons. The chief gave us a bullock, a sheep, three -jars of honey, and four men’s loads of rice. Mr. Park gave me seven -thousand cowries, and ordered me to buy provisions, which I did; he -told me to go to the chief, and give him five silver rings, some powder -and flints, and tell him that these presents were given to the king -by the white men, who were taking leave of him before they went away. -After the chief had received these things, he inquired if the white -men intended to come back. Mr. Park, being informed of this inquiry, -replied that he could not return any more.[2] Mr. Park had paid me -for my voyage before we left Sansanding: I said to him, ‘I agreed to -carry you into the kingdom of Haoussa; we are now in Haoussa. I have -fulfilled my engagement with you; I am therefore going to leave you -here and return.’” - -[2] These words occasioned his death; for the certainty of Mr. Park not -returning induced the chief to withhold the presents from the king. - -On the next day Park departed, leaving the guide at the village -of Yaour, where he was put in irons by order of the king, from a -supposition that he had aided the white men in defrauding him of the -customary presents, which the chief of Yaour had in fact received, but -retained for himself. “The next morning, early,” continues the guide, -“the king sent an army to a village called Boussa, near the river-side. -There is before this village a rock across the whole breadth of the -river. One part of the rock is very high; there is a large opening in -that rock in the form of a door, which is the only passage for the -water to pass through; the tide current is here very strong. This army -went and took possession of the top of this opening. Mr. Park came -there after the army had posted itself; he nevertheless attempted to -pass. The people began to attack him, throwing lances, pikes, arrows, -and stones. Mr. Park defended himself for a long time; two of his -slaves at the stern of the canoe were killed; they threw every thing -they had in the canoe into the river, and kept firing; but being -overpowered by numbers, and fatigued, and unable to keep up the canoe -against the current, and no probability of escaping, Mr. Park took hold -of one of the white men and jumped into the water; Martyn did the same, -and they were drowned in the stream in attempting to escape. The only -slave remaining in the boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing -weapons at the canoe without ceasing, stood up and said to them, ‘Stop -throwing now, you see nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself; -therefore cease. Take me and the canoe, but don’t kill me.’ They took -possession of the canoe and the man, and carried them to the king. - -“I was kept in irons three months; the king released me, and gave me a -slave (woman). I immediately went to the slave taken in the canoe, who -told me in what manner Mr. Park and all of them had died, and what I -have related above. I asked him if he was sure nothing had been found -in the canoe after its capture; he said nothing remained in the canoe -but himself and a sword-belt. I asked him where the sword-belt was; he -said the king took it, and had made a girth for his horse with it.” - -Such is the narrative of Amadi Fatouma; and the information since -obtained in the country by Captain Clapperton corroborates almost every -important circumstance which it describes. It appears, however, that -certain books (whether printed or manuscript does not appear) were -found in Park’s canoe, some of which were still in the possession of -the chief of Yaour when Clapperton made his inquiries; but the wily -African, who no doubt expected a valuable present for these relics, -refused to deliver them to our traveller’s messenger, and Clapperton -himself, for some reason or another not stated, neglected to visit -this chief in person. It should be remarked, that the Africans who -were questioned by Clapperton seemed all exceedingly desirous of -exculpating their countrymen, perhaps their own friends and relations, -from the charge of having murdered Park and his companions: according -to one narrator, the canoe was caught between two rocks, where the -river, being obstructed in its course, rushed through its narrow -channel with prodigious rapidity. Here the travellers, in attempting -to disembark, were drowned in the sight of an immense multitude who -had assembled to see them pass, and were too timid to attack or assist -them. On another occasion, however, the same person confessed that his -countrymen did indeed discharge their arrows at the travellers, but -not until they had been fired upon from the canoe. But the sheriff of -Bokhary, whose letter was found among the MSS. of Clapperton, asserts -that the inhabitants of Boussa went out against the white men in -great numbers, and attacked them during three successive days; after -which Park and Martyn, who from this account would appear to have -been the only European survivors, threw their papers and baggage into -the water, and leaping in after them were drowned in the stream. It -would answer no useful purpose to push these inquiries any further at -present, as we in reality possess no sufficient materials for coming -to any definite conclusion. There can be no doubt that Mungo Park -perished on the Niger, near Boussa, or that the Africans were the -cause, mediate or immediate, of his death. His character will be best -understood by a careful examination of his life; but it may be useful -to remark, in conclusion, that, although his natural prudence seems -partly to have forsaken him during his second journey, few men have -possessed in a higher degree the virtues of a traveller--intrepidity, -enthusiasm, perseverance, veracity, prudence; his manners, likewise, -though somewhat too stiff and reserved, must upon the whole have been -agreeable, since he was able both in civilized and savage countries -to gain and preserve many friends; among whom by far the most -distinguished was Sir Walter Scott, with whom, during the interval -between his two journeys, he lived on terms of the greatest intimacy. - - - - -PETER SIMON PALLAS. - -Born 1741.--Died 1811. - - -This traveller, whose works are comparatively little known in England, -was born at Berlin, September 22, 1741. His father, who was an -able surgeon, entertained the design of educating him for his own -profession; and at the same time caused him to learn several languages. -At a very early age he was able, therefore, to write the Latin, the -English, the French, and the German. His retentive memory rendered -these acquirements so easy, that his great success in this department -of knowledge scarcely at all interfered with his progress in others; -so that he is said to have likewise maintained among his schoolfellows -the pre-eminence in all their various studies. He was, in fact, by no -means satisfied with what was taught him by his different masters, but -employed his leisure hours in the study of natural history; and at the -age of fifteen he had already imagined ingenious divisions of several -classes of animals. - -Having attended at Berlin the courses of Gleditsch, Mekhel, and -Roloff, and those of Vogel and Rœderer at Göttingen, he proceeded -to Leyden, to finish his studies under Albinus, Gaubins, and -Musschenbroeck. The rarest productions of nature had been for two -centuries accumulating in Holland by the commerce of the whole world; -and it was therefore impossible that the ardent passion of Pallas -for natural history should not be still further excited by living -in the midst of them. But perhaps we attribute too much influence -to the force of circumstances. The soul, with all its tastes and -passions, is far more independent of external things than is generally -supposed. Concomitance is not causation. The energy of the mind derives -sustenance, as it were, from circumstances; but the effect of this -nourishment is determined by its own original character, just as it is -determined by the innate qualities of the scorpion, or the bee, whether -the vegetable juices which they extract from the plants of the field -shall be converted into poison or into nectar. However this may be, -Pallas afterward visited England, where a commerce more extensive than -had ever been carried on by any other nation, ancient or modern, must -likewise have collected immense treasures in natural history, which -afforded him a fortunate occasion for improving his knowledge. The -sight of these scientific riches seems, in reality, to have determined -him to waive all claim to professional emolument or honours, for -the purpose of devoting himself entirely to natural history; and he -obtained his father’s permission to settle at the Hague, with a view of -continuing his studies. - -Here, in 1776, he published his “Elenchus Zoophytorum,” the first of -his “great works,” to adopt the expression of M. Eyriès, which, for an -author of twenty-five, was a remarkable performance. The “Miscellanea -Zoologica,” which was published the same year, still further augmented -his reputation. This work (I still borrow the language of the French -geographer) threw a new light upon the least known classes of the -animal kingdom, those which had hitherto been confounded together under -the name of worms. These two publications carried far and wide the -name of their author, and several governments sought to monopolize his -talents. He would probably have given the preference to that of his -own country, had he received from it the least encouragement; but, as -too often happens, says M. Cuvier, it was at home that he was least -respected. He therefore resolved to desert his country, and accepted -a place in the Academy of St. Petersburg, which was offered him by -Catherine II. Pallas’s private circumstances are nowhere, so far as I -have been able to discover, properly explained. I know not, therefore, -whether extreme poverty or vulgar cupidity determined him to take this -step; but I cannot, without pain, contemplate men of abilities running -about the world in search of wealth, ready to snatch at it from any -hand, and no less ready, however base may be the donor, to repay the -dishonourable obligation by despicable flattery and adulation. For this -reason, in spite of the profound veneration with which I regard every -thing like genius, which appears to be a spark of the Divine nature -fallen from heaven, I cannot help considering Pallas as a learned and -ingenious slave, cringing at the foot of power, and willing to perform -all things at its bidding. - -Catherine, it is well known, was desirous that some of her own -barbarians should observe in Siberia the transit of Venus over -the sun’s disk in 1769, and not, as in 1763, leave the honour to -foreigners. She therefore selected a number of astronomers from the -Academy of St. Petersburg, and joined with them several naturalists, -whose business it was to examine the nature of the productions and soil -in this remote province of the empire. They were, in fact, instructed -to make the most exact researches on the nature of the soil; on that -of the waters; on the means of cultivating the deserts; on the actual -state of agriculture; the diseases which chiefly prevailed among men -and beasts; the means of curing or preventing them; the manner of -rearing bees, silkworms, and cattle; minerals, and mineral waters; the -arts, trades, and other industrious processes of each province; the -plants, animals, the interior and the form of mountains; and, in short, -on all the objects of natural history. The geography of the country, -the manners of its inhabitants, and the traditions and monuments of -antiquity were likewise included. - -Such was the enterprise to engage in which Pallas was invited into -Russia. In the midst of the numerous preparations required for so long -and arduous a journey, he found leisure to compose several new works -(for he possessed, and was vain of, a great facility in writing), -which, in the opinion of naturalists, were full of interesting views; -among others he presented to the academy his famous memoir on the bones -of large quadrupeds discovered in Siberia, in which he proves that the -remains of elephants, rhinoceroses, buffaloes, and many other kinds of -animals now peculiar to the south, were found in those northern regions. - -The expedition was composed of seven astronomers and geometricians, -five naturalists, and several pupils, who were to direct their course -in various directions over the immense country which they were about to -explore. Pallas left Petersburg on the 21st of June, 1768. The great -road to Moscow, which traverses a part of Ingria, affords nothing -interesting either to the traveller or the naturalist. Having passed -Tosna, they entered a forest of pines and birch-trees, where, owing -to the marshy nature of the soil, every spot which had been cleared -of wood swarmed with gadflies. He passed through, but made no stay at -Novogorod, and then pushed on to Bronitzkoi. The river which passes -through this town abounds in salmon-trout, which descend from the lake -of Ilman, visible from the neighbouring hill. The road here affords a -view of several ancient tombs, which our traveller did not pause to -examine. - -At a short distance beyond Saisovo, he crossed the Jemlin, in which -pearl-muscles are found; and, hurrying along impatiently, arrived at -Moscow on the 4th of July. This city, which had so often been visited -and described by others, possessed so few attractions for him that -he would willingly have quitted it immediately; but his vehicles, -shattered by the badness of the roads, paved in some instances with -trees, and cracked by the heat of the sun, required reparation; other -causes of delay occurred, and he was therefore detained here many days. -To amuse himself a little, and blunt the point of his impatience, he -made several short excursions in the environs, where he was greatly -struck at finding on all sides numerous petrifactions of marine -substances. The river Moskwa produces an abundance of marine sponges, -with which the Russian women rub their cheeks, instead of paint. -Attempts were even then making to raise the genuine rhubarb in the -environs of Moscow. - -From this city he set out for Vlodimir. But little care was then taken -in Russia to provide travellers with good horses, since even the -members of this expedition were sometimes scarcely able to proceed on -account of the badness of their beasts. Vlodimir, formerly an extensive -city, according to the traditions of the country, is picturesquely -situated upon several small hills, and surrounded by cherry-orchards, -the produce of which is the chief means of subsistence possessed by -the inhabitants. At Kassinof Pallas found the descendants of several -Tartar princes, who were now engaged in the fur trade, and possessed of -considerable riches. They were of the Mohammedan religion, and were at -that time rebuilding a fallen mosque, by permission of the government. - -At a small village on the banks of the Oka he saw a great number of -goitres, whose deformity he supposed to arise from the quality of -the water. On the banks of the Piana he found, in a small scattered -village, several descendants of the Mordwans, who, having been -converted to Christianity, had lost almost all traces of their ancient -manners. These, according to Pallas, were at that time the filthiest -people in the Russian empire, which was a bold thing to say; but they -were good husbandmen, and their women, though ugly, were exceedingly -laborious, which our traveller, no doubt, regarded as a superior -quality to beauty. - -About the middle of September the cold was already considerable, rain -and snow were frequent, and the severe frosts commenced. Having passed -the Soura, they entered into an immense forest, where he observed wild -cabbages on the banks of the river. Here they saw the beehives of the -Mordwans, which were left all the winter in the forests with a very -slender covering; and, among their flocks, several mules produced -between the goat and the sheep. The peasants of these woody districts -were principally employed in making tar. On the 22d of September -they reached Simbirsk, on the Volga, where they were detained within -doors for some days by a tremendous storm. They then issued forth -upon their various pursuits; and, among other places, Pallas visited -the sulphurous springs which are found near the Sargout. One of those -springs was formerly of considerable extent, and furnished large -quantities of sulphur, but it had then disappeared. The other formed -a little marsh on the left bank of the stream. Even in the depth of -winter, the water of the spring never froze, and at all times a thin -sulphury vapour hung like a light cloud over its surface. - -The season being now too far advanced to allow them to proceed on their -journey, they determined to pass the winter at Simbirsk, from whence -they departed on the following March towards Siberia. In fact, they -were weary of their residence at Simbirsk long before the winter was -over; and Pallas, having been given a charming picture of the environs -of Samara, removed thither with his companions on sledges. Near this -town, in the bed of a small stream which falls into the Sviaga, were -found numerous remains of the skeletons of elephants, among which were -several tusks very slightly injured by time, from the ivory of which -various beautiful articles were wrought. Here our traveller continued -during the whole month of April, in which time he examined whatever -was remarkable in the environs; and then, on the 2d of May, proceeded -towards the south, to Sizran on the Volga. - -The heat at this place during almost the whole of May was nearly -insupportable; the clouds gathered together, and, extending themselves -in a thick canopy over the sky, appeared to promise rain, while the -thermometer continued rising from 105 to 110 degrees in the shade; so -that, in a place situated in the same latitude as Caernarvon in North -Wales, a heat equal to that of Calcutta in July was experienced in the -spring. So high a temperature of the atmosphere was probably unusual, -as it alarmed the peasantry for their crops; and processions, offering -up solemn prayers for rain, were beheld throughout the country. - -Proceeding thence towards Perevoloka, our traveller beheld on the way -a village which on the evening before his arrival had been nearly -unroofed by a hurricane. The vast chalky plains on the banks of the -Volga had now been almost entirely stripped of vegetation by the sun, -and the heat in those places which were bare of trees was tremendous. -At the foot of a small range of hills which traverse these stepps -Pallas conjectured that the vine would succeed admirably. On drawing -near the Volga they found numerous lofty hills, some of which were -exceedingly well wooded, while barrenness dwelt upon the others; and -the narrow defiles which divided them were filled with tarantula-holes, -and the burrows of the marmot, which was seen sitting at the mouth of -its retreat uttering piercing cries. - -On a solitary spot at a short distance from the Volga Pallas visited -a large tomb, which he found had formerly been opened by avaricious -treasure-seekers; but their excavations, like the tomb itself, were now -covered with a thick underwood, and were therefore of ancient date. The -excursions of our traveller in various directions from Samara, which -was his head-quarters, were numerous, and his discoveries in natural -history would seem to have been no less so; but he passed from place -to place with the utmost safety and despatch, as we travel from London -to Bath; and therefore, however valuable may have been his scientific -labours, the events of one day too nearly resembled those of the -preceding not to cause the utmost monotony in his history. - -Near Bouzoulouk, on the river Samara, were found numerous ancient tombs -resembling those of the Grecian heroes on the shores of the Hellespont. -Copper or golden-headed arrows were sometimes found on opening these -burrows; and on one occasion the treasure-seekers were rewarded by -the discovery of a chain of gold round the neck of a skeleton. The -bones of the dead indicated a gigantic stature. On arriving at one -of the principal fortresses on the line of the Jaik, Pallas visited -the Bashkir and Kalmuc camps, where he was amused with a concert in -the old national style. The songs of the Kalmucs, like those of more -refined nations, were chiefly of love. Their instruments, though -rude, were not unpleasing. They likewise exhibited their strength in -the wrestling-ring, and their dexterity in the use of the bow. The -Bashkirs also displayed their skill in archery, and danced several -Tartar dances. Here Pallas observed the largest marsh-flies he had -ever seen,--six inches in length by three and a half in breadth. In -travelling along the Jaik it was found necessary to move under the -protection of an escort of Cossacks, as the Kirghees, a hostile nation, -were encamped in groups along the banks of the river. On the 1st of -July, 1769, he arrived at Orenburg. - -In this city our traveller enjoyed an opportunity of observing the -manners of the Kirghees. These people purchased annually from the -Russians a number of golden eagles, used by their hunters in the chase -of the wolf, the fox, and the gazelle, and would sometimes give a horse -in exchange for one of these birds, while others were hardly valued at -a sheep, or even a small piece of money. During his stay at Orenburg he -visited the great salt-mines of Hetzkain, and learned the laborious and -ingenious methods by which the fossil salt is extracted from the bowels -of the earth. The mines are chiefly worked in summer, and the salt, -being left to accumulate until the winter months, is then transported -to distant places by the peasantry. In these solitary regions he saw -a caravan of thirty camels returning from China, having crossed the -vast deserts of Central Asia, where both men and animals had nearly -perished for want, in consequence of the excessive heat of the summer. -From thence he proceeded to the Jasper Mountains, where many stones -were found beautifully variegated; some representing, when split, -the figures of trees upon their surfaces, while others were dotted -with spots of different colours. On the summits of these mountains he -beheld numerous Kirgheesian tombs constructed with prodigious blocks of -jasper, with more than imperial magnificence. - -From Orenburg he descended along the course of the Jaik, through a -mountainous country, intersected by numerous ravines, and of a wild, -desolate aspect. Near Kalmikova, on the eastern shore of the Jaik, he -saw a Kirghees camp. When the party drew near, about the close of the -day, the Kirghees seemed terrified at their approach; but were soon -reassured upon observing their pacific disposition. They then crowded -round them with joyful faces, and, bringing forth their koumiss, -or prepared mare’s milk, enabled several of Pallas’s attendants to -steep their senses in forgetfulness. Still, our honest travellers, -conscious, perhaps, that the Kirghees had some injuries to revenge -against the Russians, were fearful of passing the night in the camp, -and therefore hastened to return before dark to the city. Thence he -continued proceeding in a southern direction to the ruins of Sarai, of -which the ditch and the rampart are nearly all that now remain. It sunk -gradually with the decay of the Tartar power, until the inhabitants -at length emigrated to Chiva, and allowed it to fall entirely. The -road from thence to Gourief, on the Caspian, lies over a dry marsh, -where nothing but a few red wild-flowers meet the eye. Here Pallas -embarked in a boat with a Mons. Euler, in order to visit a small island -in the Caspian, the waters of which were of a grayish green, though -the sailors assured them that the colour farther out at sea was a -greenish black. It was said, that during summer phosphoric fires were -occasionally beheld upon its waves. - -Having examined the embouchure of the Jaik, and the neighbouring coast -of the Caspian Sea, Pallas returned northward, and set up his quarters -for the winter of 1769 at Oufa, situated on the river Belaia. Here he -employed the time not spent in travelling in working up his journal. -The winter unfortunately happened to be peculiarly bad; and this, -united with the melancholy situation of the city, and the bad air -which prevails there, prevented him from deriving all the advantages -which might have been expected from so long a residence. To increase -the dulness and insipidity of his stay, he was kept almost a prisoner -in the city until the month of May by continual inundations. In all -other respects, likewise, the winter was unfavourable. It commenced -with September, and continued increasing in rigour until the end of -November, when they were visited by terrible tempests, in which several -travellers perished on the downs of Orenburg. These continued during -the whole of December. January was less severe, and February mild. The -winter ended in March, the thaw commenced with April, and then the -country was overflowed. - -Pallas had passed so unpleasant a winter at Oufa, that he saw the time -of departure approach with the greatest satisfaction; and, as soon as -the overflowing of the rivers had ceased, despatched a soldier before -him across the Ural Mountains into the province of Isetsk, with orders -to cause the roads and bridges to be repaired. He himself followed on -the 16th of May. The weather, notwithstanding the advanced season of -the year, was overcast and stormy, with a north-west wind; it hailed, -snowed, and rained at intervals; but this did not continue long. In -the course of the day he passed by a vast chasm, formed by the sliding -of strata from their basis, and by the inhabitants denominated “the -bottomless pit.” Here the people had three years before cast the -carcasses of all those animals which had died of the murrain, which -brought thither a prodigious number of famished and furious wild dogs, -and thus rendered the road so dangerous that it was found necessary to -send out an armed detachment against them. - -The road now entered an immense forest, in which the Russians, in -imitation of the Bashkirs, kept great numbers of beehives, which were -hollowed out in the trunks of large trees, about five or six fathoms -from the ground. This is intended as one of the means of protecting -the hives against the bears; for which purpose they likewise carefully -cut off all the lower branches of the tree, and smooth every knot. -However, as the bear is too able a climber to be thus discouraged, -they, in addition to these common precautions, fix a kind of circle of -sharp knives or scythes round the tree, a little below the hive, which -either prevents the animal from ascending, or impales him when he would -return. But there are some old bears too experienced to be thus caught, -who strike out the spikes with their paws. Against these other means -are resorted to. In the first place, they fix a kind of catapult aloft -on the tree, with a cord suspended, which, when the animal touches, an -arrow is darted down with great vehemence, which transfixes him in the -breast. Another method is, to suspend a plank horizontally on some of -the long branches by cords, in such a manner that it can be drawn at -will before the mouth of the hive, to which it is fastened by a knot -of pliable bark. Upon this plank the bear seats himself in order to -work at the hive. He then commences by loosening the knot, upon which -the plank becomes what boys call a “see-saw;” and the bear is either -precipitated in a moment to the ground, where he is impaled upon sharp -stakes fixed there for the purpose, or, if he does not fall, he is -compelled to leap, or wait trembling on the plank until the owner of -the hive arrives and shoots him at his ease. - -Having traversed the country of the Moursalarki Bashkirs, our traveller -visited a small volcano, around which every thing was in full flower -and further advanced than elsewhere, on account of the internal -heat. This volcano was not of ancient date. Many persons then living -remembered the storm during which a thunderbolt fell upon a great -pine-tree, which, taking fire and burning rapidly to the very roots, -kindled the mountain, which had thenceforward continued on fire. The -neighbouring forests were wholly consumed by the conflagration. At this -time the fire seemed to have retired into the centre of the mountain, -where it raged with prodigious violence, occasionally bursting forth -through the wide fissures of the superincumbent crust, which it was -gradually calcining to powder. The view of the volcano during a stormy -night was sublime. Broad openings or cracks, commencing at the summit -of the cone, spread themselves like the veins of a leaf down the -side, branching forth in many directions, as from a trunk; and these, -contrasted with the dark mass of the mountain, and emitting light-red -flames through all their extent, appeared like so many perpetual -streams of lightning in a thunder-cloud. - -In traversing a forest in this district after a terrible hurricane, -Pallas found the ground strewed with small branches of poplar, the -extremities of which furnish a finer and more silky cotton than that of -Egypt or Bengal. Whether the Russian government has ever attended to -the suggestion of this naturalist, in substituting this cotton for the -ordinary species, I have not been able to learn. The route through the -forests and mountains which border the Aural in this direction was by -no means very pleasing. Pallas loved smooth roads, good inns, and good -dinners. He was therefore particularly annoyed when, in making towards -a mountain said to abound in aluminous slate, he found his guide at -fault in the woods, where, after wandering about for some time, they -were overtaken by a tempest. The sky suddenly grew dark, and their way -lying among rugged rocks of enormous magnitude, the passage between -which was frequently blocked up by trees which the hurricane had -overthrown, their horses refused to proceed. Besides, the darkness was -now so great that they could not see before them, and it was therefore -necessary to pass the night where they were. To make their lodgings -as comfortable as they could, they selected the tops of the highest -rocks, which were somewhat drier than the rest of the forest. Had they -possessed a tinder-box, it would have been easy to kindle a fire, by -which they might have dried and warmed themselves; but our traveller, -like Sir Abel Handy in “Speed the Plough,” whose inventions were -never completed by the hour of need, had left his tinder-box behind -him. He endeavoured to remedy this evil by rubbing together two small -pieces of wood; but the rain had damped the seeds of fire which they -contained, and he rubbed in vain. Relinquishing at length all attempts -to inveigle Vulcan into their company, they erected a small tent with -the branches of trees and their cloaks, and throwing themselves, wet -as they were, upon the felt of their saddles, in this manner quietly -passed the night, though the rain fell in torrents on all sides. -Next morning, after drinking a little water, which served them for -breakfast, they pushed on through the woods; but as the rain still -continued, they were for a considerable time unable, with all their -exertions, to restore warmth to their limbs. In the afternoon, however, -they discovered an iron-foundry, where they dried their garments, and -then set forward on their return to their quarters. This was destined -to be a day of adventures for Pallas. The river Aï, which they had -crossed without difficulty the day before, was now swelled to a furious -torrent by the rains; so that a ferry-boat was indispensable. A horde -of Chouvashes, who inhabited the banks of the stream, undertook to -construct a boat; but when it was launched, and the traveller embarked -in it, the mariners discovered that the cords by which it was to be -pulled along were so awkwardly arranged that they were every moment -in danger of being capsized and hurled into the water. Fortunately, -the rapidity of the current was so great, that they darted along like -an arrow, clinging to their carriage, which they had had the prudence -to fasten with strong cords to the boat; and in a moment they were on -the opposite shore, where the sharp angles of their raft, for it was -little better, struck in the earth, and prevented all possibility of a -refluence into the river. They then dragged their vehicle on shore, and -continued their journey. - -Proceeding eastward from this place, they arrived on the 20th of June -at the Asbestos Mountain, which traverses a marshy region covered with -moss. The asbestos is found on the summit of the loftiest hill in the -whole chain, in a kind of coarse slate. It is brittle, like decayed -wood, while in the stone, but upon being exposed to the air becomes -soft and pliable as flax, and is easily spun and woven into cloth. -Pallas himself, who carefully examined its nature and qualities, as -well as the mine, if it may be so termed, from which it is drawn, -saw it manufactured into paper. From this place he proceeded to the -iron-forges of Sisertskoï, in the neighbourhood of which gold is -found in a matrix of quartz and ochre; and, indeed, all the country -immediately north of this point abounds in an auriferous ochre, from -which much pure metal might be extracted. He then visited various -other forges, mines, and quarries, and arrived at Ekaterinburg on the -23d of June. - -Our traveller’s life, like the peaceful periods of history complained -of by Plutarch, was too uniform to furnish many interesting events to -his biographer. He travelled, he examined many things, he wrote; but -dangers, difficulties, and all the fierce play of the passions, which -render the life of a bold adventurer who relies on his own resources -a series of romantic achievements, have no existence in his travels’ -history, and both the reader’s patience and mine are, therefore, -somewhat irritated. This, no doubt, may appear unphilosophical to many. -It may be said, that when we behold the picture of a life, whether -individual or national, which flowed along in a calm tide, unruffled -by misfortune or vicissitude, our feelings should be lulled into the -same tranquil motion, and be productive of a happiness similar to -that, the representation of which we contemplate. I have faith in the -wisdom of nature, which has ordered things otherwise. The mind, when -in a healthy and vigorous state, abhors an uninterrupted calm; and -storms, hurricanes, and thunders are not more conducive to the general -good of the physical world than vicissitudes, transitions, dangers, -escapes, which are the storms and sunshine of life, are conducive to -happiness in the individual who undergoes them, and to sympathy and -pleasure in those who contemplate his career. For this reason, persons -who travel with authority never inspire us with the same respect as -those whose movements are spontaneous and independent; nor can such -travellers ever penetrate like the latter into the core of manners -and national character, since most of those who approach them put -on, in deference to their very authority, an artificial, deceptive -appearance. In the same manner, a nation which should begin and end in -peace would have no history; none, at least, which could interest any -one beyond its borders. Human virtues are plants which never strike a -deep root unless shaken by misfortune. Virtue consists in the directing -of our intellectual and physical energies to a praiseworthy end; -but if our energies be naturally feeble, or dwindle and wither away -through lack of exercise, our virtue, by a necessary consequence, must -become dwarfish and insignificant, and utterly incapable of exciting -enthusiastic sympathy in those who behold its meek and timid bearing. - -These reflections have been extorted from me by the insipid mode of -travelling adopted by Pallas. Nothing can be further from my intention -than to recommend or require foolhardiness in a traveller; but it -seems not irrational to expect, that when a man undertakes the task of -examining a remote country, he should be willing to incur some risk -and fatigue in the execution of his plan. Of fatigue Pallas, perhaps, -endured his share; but he seems to have shrunk rather too timidly from -coming in contact with barbarous nations; and I therefore greatly -distrust the completeness of his moral pictures. On the other hand, his -descriptions of plants, minerals, and the processes of Russian industry -are exceedingly minute, and enjoy, I believe, among scientific men the -reputation of being exact; but these, unfortunately, the very nature -of biography compels me to reject, or introduce into the narrative but -sparingly. Among the curious things observed in the western districts -of Siberia was the method of preparing Russia leather, which, though -tanned in the ordinary manner, acquired the fine scent which renders -it so valuable from the oil extracted from the bark of the birch-tree. -In traversing the forests which surround the marble quarries on the -banks of the Toura, with Vogoul guides, they were overtaken by the -night. Excepting the small spot on which they halted, all around was -a marshy swamp encumbered with wood, and affording neither road nor -pathway. They therefore considered themselves fortunate in having found -a dry resting-place; and the Vogouls, to whom such accidents were -familiar, immediately occupied themselves in kindling a fire at once, -in order to procure warmth and keep off the bears. Next morning his -guides undertook to conduct him, by a short path across the forest, -to the banks of the Liala, and accordingly struck off boldly into the -wilderness. The sombre pine-trees, intermingling their branches above, -rendered the way exceedingly obscure; a bog or a fallen tree every -moment intercepted their route; the branches of prickly shrubs tore -their hands and faces; and not a step could be taken without carefully -observing whether it might not precipitate them into some impassable -morass. Not a plant met the eye but the _mœringia_ and the _linnea_, -two plants which our traveller, in general a patient forbearing man, -often saluted with Tristram Shandy’s whole chapter of curses, as they -were in those northern regions the never-failing forerunners of a swamp -or an impervious pine-forest. After much toil they reached an open -space, from which the trees had been cleared away by a conflagration, -which Pallas attributed to lightning, and his guides to the frolics -of the devil, who, they imagined, during some long winter night had -kindled a whole forest to light up his gambols. Shortly afterward, his -guides, who had probably bestowed too many of their thoughts upon the -devil, entirely lost their way, and, after floundering about in bogs -and woods for several hours, were compelled to confess their utter -ignorance of the way; upon which, at the command of our traveller, -they turned back, and regained the point from which he had started. -The Vogouls, with whom he performed this unsuccessful journey, are a -people of primitive and peculiar manners, living in separate families -scattered through the woods, with each its domain and enclosure of -several miles, containing elks and other large game. Though surrounded -by marshes, they are said to enjoy excellent health. Their lives, -however, are not of long duration. Short in stature, and effeminate in -form, they in some measure resemble the Kalmucs, but their complexion -is fairer. Their women are handsome, and of exceedingly amorous -temperament. They profess Christianity, but merely for peace’ sake; for -in secret they continue the worship of idols, which are daily invoked -with prayer and sacrifice. - -About the end of August Pallas arrived at Cheliabinsk, where he was -for a considerable time confined to his chamber by an affection of the -eyes. Here, therefore, he resolved to remain during the winter; but, -in order that no time might be lost, he despatched a number of his -attendants in various directions, with orders to collect information. -Growing tired of this town about the middle of December, however, -he set out for Tobolsk, where he remained but a few days, and then -returned by Ekaterinburg to Cheliabinsk, where he continued during the -remainder of the winter. - -Pallas remained at Cheliabinsk until the 16th of April, 1771, when, -having commissioned a number of the young men who accompanied the -expedition to examine the more northern portions of Siberia, he -departed towards the east. The day before he set out, the long grass -on the extensive downs to the north of the city were set on fire; the -flames swept rapidly along the plains, and the wind blowing towards -the town, there was some danger that this irresistible conflagration, -which already embraced the whole extent of the horizon, might reach the -place, and consume it to ashes. A timely shower of rain, however, put -an end to their apprehensions. - -In proceeding towards the Tobol, our traveller was alarmed by a report -that the Kirghees were making an incursion into the interjacent -territory, and prudently turned out of his way to avoid an encounter -with these rude barbarians. At Kaminskaia several of his companions -fell sick, some with fever, some with scorbutic rheumatism, while -others became a prey to melancholy. His movements, for these reasons, -were slow. The weather, meanwhile, was exceedingly severe; the snow -falling heavily, accompanied by cold wind. The last days of April were -marked by a terrible hurricane, and May was commenced with hard frost; -notwithstanding which, neither the young flowers nor the buds suffered -any particular injury. On the 2d of May one of his attendants died of -scurvy, which had afflicted him for five months, and was accompanied -by symptoms no less violent than those which attend the same disorder -at sea. This event, which would have cost some men a tear, seems to -have given no particular uneasiness to Pallas, who, leaving some of his -people to inter the dead, coolly continued his journey. - -On reaching the stepp of Ischimi, he found an immense plain watered by -extensive lakes, and abounding in aquatic game, among which the most -remarkable was a large species of white heron. To study the manners of -this bird he remained here a few days. But his mode of procuring game -was somewhat different from that of Le Vaillant, who pursued the birds -into the woods, observed them in their native haunts, and shot them -himself. Pallas despatched a number of subaltern naturalists, who shot -the game for him, and furnished him with an account of their manners; -and this was what he termed studying natural history. - -On arriving at Omsk, he applied to the temporary governor of the -town for permission to examine the collection of maps of Siberia, as -divided into provinces and districts, which had been made by the late -Governor Springer; but the new functionary, “dressed in a little brief -authority,” had the ambition to play the politician and statesman, -and, notwithstanding that he knew Pallas to be travelling for the -government upon a public mission, refused him the favour he demanded -without an express order from court. Nay, when he desired to depart, -this new great man, with the prudence of an owl, denied him a proper -passport, though without this it would be difficult for him to obtain -horses on the way. Pallas, however, with the caution of a courtier, -rather than with the honest indignation of a man of letters, instead -of stigmatizing this gross misconduct as it deserved, merely observes, -that he attributed it to the military spirit naturally inimical to the -sciences. - -Our traveller at length departed from Omsk, and commenced his -examination of the productions found on the banks of the Irtish, where, -on digging in the sandy downs, the bones of elephants and of many large -fishes were discovered. Though it was now drawing near the end of May, -he experienced continual storms, sometimes accompanied by black clouds, -at others by a clear sky. From the inhabitants, however, he learned -that tempests succeed each other almost unceasingly in those regions, -where a week of fine weather is seldom or never known. He here learned -from the fur-merchants a secret which deserves to be generally known: -in order to preserve their furs from the worms, they tied up in each -bale several calamus roots, which, they asserted, were an unfailing -defence of their merchandise. A few shreds of Russia leather, which -preserves books and papers from the moth even in Hindostan, would no -doubt have answered the same purpose. - -On the 11th of June, while travelling through a country thickly -intersected with salt-lakes and birch forests, and peopled by myriads -of wild bees, he encountered an enormous wolf, which was chasing a duck -upon the heath. This animal, he says, is generally remarkable for its -timidity in summer; but on the present occasion seemed disposed, like -one of La Fontaine’s wolves; to enter into a debate with the strangers; -for, instead of flying, he coolly stood still to look at them, without -being in the least disturbed by their shouting. At length, however, -despairing of entering into any thing like rational conversation with -persons who seemed resolved to monopolize all the privilege of good -company for themselves, he turned round upon his heel, and with a -disdainful and careless bound, continued his journey. - -At the foot of the small mountains which branch northward of the Altaïc -chain, Pallas discovered a prodigious number of excavations and pits, -made at some remote period by a people now unknown, who understood the -art of smelting metals, but who have left no trace of their existence -save these mines, and the ornaments of copper and gold which are found -in their tombs. Here, at the small town of Shoulba, our traveller was -attacked with dysentery; but it was necessary to push forward, though -his weakness was such that he could scarcely step into his carriage. -While in this state he passed by, but could not visit, a tomb of -prodigious magnitude, situated on the summit of a lofty mountain, -which, according to tradition, had formerly been opened by a band of -one hundred and fifty armed peasantry, who had been rewarded for their -labour by the discovery of fifty pounds weight of solid gold. A few -days afterward his dysentery became so violent that he was compelled to -discontinue his journey, and confine himself, during several weeks, to -his bed. - -As soon as his health was a little improved, he set out with M. -Sokoloff, in order to visit the Altaïc mountains. The whole of the -neighbouring districts are diversified with hill and dale, and watered -by numerous streams, which come down from the mountains, foaming and -thundering over their rocky beds. On some of these eminences were found -extensive copses of raspberry-bushes, around which Pallas observed -the fresh tracks of bears, which are very fond of this fruit, and -not unfrequently carry off women and children who resort thither to -gather it. Apparently this is done merely as a frolic, or by way of -terrifying interlopers from meddling with their property; for our -traveller gravely observes that they do them no manner of injury. - -At length they discovered the summits of the Altaï, covered with snow, -and towering far above everything around them. Pallas had no eye for -the picturesque. What in the eyes of another man would have been -sublime was to him merely fearful and horrible; but he was struck with -these cones, and pyramids, and precipices, and prodigious pinnacles -of rock, which, when he beheld them, appeared to support a black roof -of clouds, which stretched over the whole hemisphere, and menaced the -country with a second deluge. No marine petrifactions, or any sign of -their ever having been submerged in the ocean, were here discoverable; -but it is probable that more careful researches would have been -productive of a different result. - -From the Altaïc mountains Pallas directed his course towards the north, -crossed the Obi, traversed the governments of Kolyran, visited Tomsk, -and on the 10th of October arrived at Krasnoiarsk, a city situated -on the Yeniseï, in the 66th degree of north latitude. Here he set up -his quarters for the winter. The autumn, he observes, is generally -mild in the southern parts of Siberia; but with the winter storms and -hurricanes come on, and sometimes blow during a whole month without -intermission. The cold is intense. Nevertheless, about the middle of -February the sun begins to exert considerable power, and sensibly -diminishes the snow on the mountains. - -On the 7th of March, 1772, Pallas departed from Krasnoiarsk for -the eastern part of Siberia, accompanied by a painter, and three -naturalists. Their route, as far as the Angora, lay through a country -partly covered with forests, where there falls, during winter, large -quantities of snow. From time to time they observed the encampments of -the idolatrous tribes who inhabit those regions, and roam about like -wild animals in the woods. They reached Irkutsk on the 14th, and having -remained a week in that capital, continued their journey along the -shores of Lake Baikal. The weather had now grown warm, and they saw the -last flocks of alpine larks and black sparrows, flying round the city, -and then departing for the north; these were followed by a species -of striped crow, which had passed the winter in the warm regions of -Mongolia, or China, and was now pursuing the same route towards the -arctic circle. - -As our traveller was desirous of crossing Lake Baikal on sledges, he -hurried his departure from Irkutsk, lest the warm weather should melt -the ice, and obstruct his passage. The scenery on the shores of this -immense lake is exceedingly rugged and sublime. Rocks of vast elevation -form the shores of the Angara, by which you descend from Irkutsk to -the sea; and on arriving at the mouth of the river you discover, -as through an arcade, the vast basin of the Baikal, and the lofty -mountains which confine its waters on the east. They directed their -course in a straight line from a small post on the bank of the frozen -stream, towards the borders of the lake, pursuing their way in sledges -on the ice. When they had proceeded about half-way, they were overtaken -by a tremendous storm from the north-west, which entirely cooled the -atmosphere. The wind swept along the ice with such prodigious violence, -that the sledge-drivers, who ran along by the side of the vehicles, -were sometimes blown away to the distance of many fathoms from the -road, and were compelled to stick their knives in the ice, to prevent -their being carried away, and hurled into some chasm. To avoid the risk -of such accidents, the party halted until the tempest was over. - -At Zimovia on the Baikal, they found several persons setting out -to hunt the sea-dog on the lake. This kind of chase takes place -principally in April. The sea-dogs, assembling on those parts of the -shore where rapid streams or warm springs keep up an opening in the -ice, then ascend from the water, in order to lie down upon the ice, -and sleep in the sun. The hunters fix up in their little sledges a -small white flag, which the dogs take for ice, and accordingly are not -frightened until they draw near and fire upon them. - -Pallas now descended in his sledge upon the Baikal, and commenced -this singular portion of his journey. The ice had this winter been as -smooth as a mirror, on the whole surface of the lake; but when they had -advanced to a certain distance from the shore, they found a fissure of -several feet in breadth, which intercepted their passage, and forced -them to make a circuit of considerable length. However, this obstacle -having been surmounted, they encountered no other, and quickly found -themselves on the opposite shore. The road now assumed a different -character, running over rugged mountains, or sandy flats, where the -snow was entirely melted, until, cutting the Selinga, as it were, into -two parts, it led them into a milder climate, where the spring, with -all its gay accompaniments, was already far advanced. They arrived, -much fatigued, at Selinginsk, on the 25th of March. - -From Selinginsk he proceeded through Mongolia towards the borders of -China, moving among an idolatrous people, the partisans of the Lamaic -hierarchy, until, arriving at Kiakter, he touched the extreme limits -of the empire, where his journey in that direction was to terminate. -Here Pallas made many inquiries respecting the commerce, opinions, and -manners of the Chinese; and having satisfied his curiosity, returned -to Selinginsk. From this point he now directed his course northward, -towards the great tributary streams which fall into the Selinga. His -excursions in this direction, which were carried into execution without -enthusiasm or curiosity, merely as a task imposed on him by authority, -are still more destitute of incidents, if possible, than the former -portion of his travels. He examined the iron-mines, the grain and fur -trade, and the objects of natural history furnished by the district. - -Pallas now turned his face towards the east, traversed the desert -regions which lie between the Selinga and the Onon, the principal -branch of the Amoor, and having pushed his researches to within a very -short distance of the Chinese frontier, returned by a different route -to Selinginsk, leaving to M. Sokolof and others the honour of exploring -the frontiers of Mongolia, along the banks of the Argoon and Amoor. His -health, indeed, now began to suffer from constant fatigue, and he was -therefore fully justified in relinquishing this portion of his task; -but I cannot easily pardon him for pretending to have been actuated -by the desire of botanizing on the banks of the Selinga, since, if -botanizing was his object, it was to be presumed that the wild shores -of the Amoor would have afforded a still more ample and extraordinary -field for his researches. During his stay at Selinginsk, he observed, -among other curious animals and birds, the blue crow, which was easily -taken, as its young were hitherto unfledged; and a species of small -white hare, which was found in great numbers in the little islands in -the Selinga. Besides these there was the leaping hare, which, mingling -at night among the sheep, frightened them by its bounding motions. The -Mongols, who are fond of its flesh when roasted, imagine that it sucks -the ewes; as the vulgar in England report of the hedgehog and the cow. - -Previous to his finally quitting the country, he made another excursion -to the frontiers of China, principally, it would seem, for the purpose -of studying the botany of those districts, when the flowers were -clothed in all the beauty of summer. The road to Kiakta traverses a -large sandy plain, and afterward a succession of rocky mountains, -entirely destitute of wood. In this latter district our traveller -observed a species of locust, by whose flight the natives could foretel -with certainty whether the weather would be fair or otherwise. They -mounted aloft on the wing previous to rainy weather, and the noise of -their motions resembled that of castanets. After remaining some short -time in the vicinity of Kiakta, he once more returned to Selinginsk, -and began to make the necessary preparations for retracing their -footsteps to Krasnoiarsk, where they again intended to pass the winter. -Accordingly, on the 3d of July, Pallas and a part of his companions -departed from Selinginsk, and proceeded towards the Baikal. - -Upon reaching the eastern shore of the lake, they saw a thick cold -mist, which appeared to fill the whole extent of its vast basin, and -hung close upon the surface of the water. This fog exactly resembled -those fogs which are sometimes collected in the hollows of the -mountains, or on the shores of the sea. It was kept in continual -motion, and tossed hither and thither, like the waves of the ocean, by -the wind. This mist was accompanied by strong westerly winds, which -prevented our traveller from proceeding on his way; and he amused -himself during his detention in studying the fishes of the lake, -together with the birds and animals which frequent its shores. - -On the 10th of July, he embarked, and set sail with boisterous and -contrary winds. The passage of the lake was long, but, arriving at -length at Zimovia, Pallas proceeded with all possible expedition to -Krasnoiarsk, by way of Irkutsk. He arrived on the 1st of August at -the point of destination, where, to his great satisfaction, he found -that a magnificent collection of the flowers which adorn the banks of -the Yeniseï had been made during the spring and summer, by one of his -pupils, whom he had left behind for that purpose. From Krasnoiarsk, -our traveller made another long excursion, visited several Tartar -hordes, various mines, mountains, and tombs, and returned about the -middle of September, the approach of winter being already visible in -those high latitudes. By December, the cold had reached an intensity -which had never been felt even in Siberia. The air was still, and at -the same time condensed, as it were; so that, although the sky was -exceedingly clear, the sun appeared as if beheld through a cloud. -In the morning of the 6th of December, Pallas found the mercury of -his thermometer frozen, “a thing,” says he, “which had never before -happened during the whole eight years in which I had made use of this -instrument. I then conveyed it from the gallery where it was kept -into an apartment moderately warmed with a stove. Here the column of -mercury, which had been condensed in the tube, immediately sunk into -the bulb, while that in the bulb resumed its activity in the course -of half a minute. I repeated this experiment several times with the -same result, so that sometimes there remained but a very few particles -in the tube, sometimes not above one. In order to follow the progress -of the experiment, I gently warmed the bulb with my fingers, after it -had been exposed to the air, and watching the mounting of the mercury, -distinctly observed that the condensed and frozen columns offered -considerable resistance before they gave way. At the same time I -exposed about a quarter of a pound of mercury to the air, in a saucer. -This mercury had been previously well washed in vinegar, and cleansed -from impurities. The saucer was placed in a gallery on the north side -of my house. In an hour the edges of the surface were frozen, and a -few minutes afterward, the whole superficies was condensed into a -soft mass, exactly resembling pewter. As the interior, however, still -continued fluid, a small portion of the surface presented numerous -wrinkles branching out from each other, but the greater part was -sufficiently smooth. The same thing took place with a still larger -quantity which I placed in the open air. This mass of frozen mercury -was as pliable as lead but if bent suddenly, would break more easily -than pewter; and when flattened into sheets, appeared somewhat knotty. -I tried to beat it out with the hammer, but being quite cold, the -mercury fell from it in drops. The same thing took place when you -touched this mass with the finger, the top of which was instantly -benumbed with cold by the simple contact. I then placed it in a -moderately warm room, and it melted like wax placed over the fire. The -drops separated from the surface, which melted gradually. The intensity -of the cold diminished towards the evening.” - -In the month of January, 1773, Pallas began to make preparations for -returning to Petersburg, and departing on the 22d, pushed on with -the utmost rapidity to Tomsk. During this journey, he discovered the -execrable principles upon which it was attempted to people Siberia. -The refuse of the people, the lame, the sick, the infirm, and the -old, had been collected together, and sent thither to die. Men had -been torn, for this purpose, from their wives and families. Women, -for some reason or another, had not been allowed to emigrate from the -west in sufficient numbers, and vice and misery flourished in their -absence. Man, deprived of the society of women, necessarily degenerates -into a ferocious beast, contemning all laws, and every regulation of -morality. “It is not good that man should be alone.” Whenever new -colonies are established, women should be numerous. It is they who are -the grand instruments of civilization.--The cavern, the desert hut, -when inhabited by a woman, already contains the germs of humanity, of -hospitality, of improvement; but without her is a den, a haunt of -ungovernable passions,--a refuge from the storm, but not a home. - -In crossing a bridge over the Dooroosh, in the country of the Votiaks, -our traveller was placed in a more perilous condition than he had -experienced during any former period of his travels. His horses had -already reached the shore, when the bridge, which must have been a very -frail structure, gave way under his carriage, and he must infallibly -have been precipitated into the stream, had not the spirited horses -dashed on at the moment, and dragged up the carriage from amid the -falling ruins. - -The country between the Jaik and the Volga was at that period a -vast desert, which abounded with wild horses. Pallas, however, was -of opinion that these animals had once been tame, but, during the -emigrations and nomadic movements of the Kalmucs and Kirghees, had -escaped into the wilderness, where they had multiplied exceedingly. -To fly from the heat and the hornets, these horses wandered far into -the north during the summer months, and there, besides a refuge from -their persecutors, found better pasturage, and an abundance of water. -The surface of this great Mesopotamia was sprinkled at intervals with -ruins of Tartar edifices, which swarmed in an extraordinary manner with -serpents. - -On the 25th of June our traveller arrived at the Moravian colony of -Sarepta, which in eight years had increased, by immigration, from five -persons to two thousand five hundred; and was at this period in a -highly flourishing state. He here entered into some curious researches -respecting the ancient shores of the Caspian, whose waters, in his -opinion, once covered the greater portion of the Kalmuc country, just -as those of the Black Sea did all the low lands upon its banks, before -the deluge of Deucalion, when they first burst the huge natural mound -which separated them from the Mediterranean. - -Pallas passed the autumn at Zarizyn, where he observed the Kalmucs -moving westward in hordes towards the country lying between the Volga -and the Don. From this place he made an excursion through the stepps -which lie up the stream of the Volga; on his return from which he -chiefly employed himself in botanical researches, until the spring of -1774. He then undertook another journey along the banks of the Aktooba, -through a country infested with bands of vagabond Kirghees, and other -wandering nations, and returned to his head-quarters on the 25th of May. - -It was now six years since the expedition had set out from Petersburg, -and all its members began to desire repose. Each person, therefore, -hastened to return by the shortest road to the capital. Pallas was -directed to repair to Moscow, and punctually obeyed his orders, without -making the slightest deviation to the right-hand or to the left. He -arrived at this ancient city on the 3d of July, 1774. “Here,” says he, -“I found the orders of the court, by which I was commanded to hasten -without the least delay to Petersburg; and, notwithstanding that I felt -exceedingly desirous of making a short stay at Moscow, for the purpose -of improving my knowledge, by conversing with the learned M. Müller, -one of the most excellent men in Russia, as well as one of the most -celebrated of its historians, _it was necessary to yield and obey_.” -Such is the condition of those who travel by command. He arrived at -Petersburg on the 30th of July, exhausted by fatigue, and with a head -sprinkled with premature gray hairs; for he was then no more than -thirty-three years old. - -The companions of Pallas had suffered still more severely; scarcely one -of them lived long enough to draw up an account of his travels; and -it was therefore left to him to render this piece of justice to their -memory. For himself, the splendid objects which he had beheld had made -too profound an impression on his mind to allow of his being satisfied -with the accounts of them which he had hastily traced in his journal. -He therefore determined upon the publication of several separate -works, which should contain the natural history of the most celebrated -quadrupeds of Siberia; and these he actually laid before the public, -together with descriptions of a great number of birds, reptiles, and -fishes. In addition to all these, he even projected a natural history -of all the animals and plants in the Russian empire; in which design, -though it was never completed, he made a very considerable progress. -The empress herself, worthless and profligate as she was, was possessed -by the ambition of being regarded as the patron of the sciences, and -in order to facilitate the execution of our traveller’s project, -communicated to him the herbariums of several other botanists, who -had studied the flora of the empire. To secure the completion of the -undertaking, Catherine moreover engaged to furnish the expense of the -engraving and printing of the work; but the end was not answerable to -this magnificent beginning; projects of more vulgar ambition, or vile -and despicable amours, too fully occupied the imperial mind to allow so -unimportant a thing as the science of botany to command a thought, and -Pallas was constrained to rely upon his own resources for making known -his botanical discoveries to the world. The same fate attended his -works on the natural history of the animals and insects of the empire. - -M. Cuvier, whose capacity to appreciate the labours of a scientific man -can scarcely be called in question, observes, that it is seldom that -very laborious men possess sufficient tranquillity of mind to conceive -those root-ideas which produce a revolution in the sciences; but Pallas -formed an exception to this rule. He nearly succeeded in changing the -whole aspect of the science of zoology; and most certainly did operate -a complete change in that of the theory of the earth. An attentive -consideration of the two great chains of mountains of Siberia enabled -him to discover this general rule, which has been everywhere found -to hold good, that there exist three primitive orders of mountains, -the granitic in the centre, the schistous next in succession, and the -calcareous on the outside. It may be said that this great discovery, -distinctly announced in a memoir read before the academy in 1777, gave -birth to the modern science of geology: from this point the Saussures, -the Delues, and the Werners proceeded to the discovery of the real -structure of the earth, which is so exceedingly at variance with the -fantastic ideas of preceding writers. - -In addition to his scientific labours, Pallas was engaged by Catherine -in drawing up comparative vocabularies of the languages spoken by all -the various nations in the Russian empire; but was restrained, in -the execution of this plan, to follow exactly in the track pointed -out by his mistress. He was likewise chosen member of the committee -employed, in 1777, in compiling a new topography of the empire; and -had the honour of instructing Alexander, the late despot of Russia, -and his brother Constantine, in natural history. But, notwithstanding -all these marks of distinction, and many others of equal importance, -our traveller experienced the truth, that happiness is incompatible -with dependence of every kind. His travelling habits, too, rendered a -sedentary life irksome to him; but what still further disgusted him -with Petersburg, was the crowd of fashionable but absurd people who -thronged his house, imagining, perhaps, they were doing him an honour -by consuming his time. To escape from this species of persecution, he -took advantage of the invasion of the Crimea, to visit new countries; -and during the years 1793 and 1794, traversed the southern provinces -of the empire at his own expense. He even skirted the frontiers of -Circassia, but, with his usual prudence, avoided the dangers which -would have attended a journey into that country. He then proceeded -into the Crimea, through which Potemkin was leading the empress as a -spectacle of contempt and scorn to all mankind; and was so captivated -by a passing glance at its splendid scenery, that, on his return to -Petersburg, he solicited and obtained permission to retire thither. - -Solitude, however, which appeared so desirable at a distance, Pallas -soon found to be an intolerable curse; the climate, also, fell -infinitely short of his expectations, was inconstant and humid, and -liable to be altered by every passing wind. It united, in fact, the -inconveniences of the north and of the south; yet our traveller endured -these evils for fifteen years; but at length, feeling the approaches of -old age, he determined at once to escape from the climate of the Crimea -and from Russian despotism, and selling his estates at an exceedingly -low rate, returned to his native city, after an absence of forty-two -years. His health, however, had been so completely undermined by the -diseases he had contracted during his travels, and, more than all, -by his long residence in the Crimea, that he might be said merely to -have looked upon his native place, and on the face of those friends -or admirers which his knowledge and fame had gathered around him, -before death removed him from the enjoyment of all these things. This -event took place on the 8th of September, 1811. Pallas appears to have -been an able, learned, and upright man, deeply intent on promoting -the interests of science, but indifferent about those great political -rights without the enjoyment of which even the sciences themselves are -of no more dignity or value than the tricks of a juggler. - - - - -CARSTEN NIEBUHR. - -Born 1733.--Died 1815. - - -This traveller was born on the 17th of March, 1733, in the province of -Friesland, in the kingdom of Hanover. It would be to mislead the reader -to represent him, as some of his biographers have done, as the son -of a peasant, in the sense in which that term is applied in England. -His father and his ancestors, for several generations, had been small -landed proprietors; he himself received an education, and inherited a -property, which, however small, served as an incentive to ambition; and -though, like many others, he found the entrance of the road to fame -rugged and hard to tread, it must not be dissembled that his prudence -and perseverance were singularly aided by good fortune. - -Having lost his mother before he was six weeks old, the care of his -infancy was intrusted to a step-mother; and he was still a lad when -his father likewise died. The guardians upon whom the superintendence -of his youth at first devolved, entertaining, apparently, but little -respect for intellectual pursuits, interrupted his studies; and his -maternal uncle, who succeeded them in this important trust, would seem -to have wanted the means, if he possessed the will, to direct the -course of a young man. Niebuhr was therefore left very much to his -own guidance, which, to a man of vigorous intellect, I am far from -regarding as a misfortune. The beginnings of life, however, like the -beginnings of day, are generally accompanied by mists which obscure the -view, and render it absolutely impossible to determine with precision -the character of the various paths which present themselves before us; -and thus it was that our traveller, who, knowing not that Providence -was about to conduct him to a brilliant destiny in the East, at one -time studied music, with the intention of becoming an organist, and was -afterward led, through accidental circumstances, to apply himself to -geometry, for the purpose of practising as a land-surveyor. - -With this design he repaired, in his twenty-third year, to Bremen, -where he discovered a person from whom he might have derived the -necessary instruction; but finding that this individual’s domestic -economy was under the superintendence of two youthful sisters, whose -behaviour towards himself Niebuhr seems to have regarded as forward -and indecorous, he immediately quitted this city and proceeded to -Hamburgh. It will easily be conceived that the studies of a young man -who voluntarily cultivated his intellect as the only means by which -he could arrive at distinction, were pursued with ardent enthusiasm. -Niebuhr, in fact, considered labour and toil as the only guides -to genuine glory, and was content to tolerate on the way the rude -fierceness of their manners. - -When he had studied the mathematics, during two years, under Büsch, he -removed to Göttingen, where he continued another year. At this period -the Danish ministry, at the suggestion of Michaelis, had projected -a scientific expedition into Arabia, which was at first designed, -at least by its originator, merely to throw some light upon certain -passages of the Old Testament, but which afterward embraced a much -wider field. Michaelis, to whom the choice of the individuals who were -to form this mission had been intrusted, betrayed the narrowness or -malignity of his mind, by neglecting the celebrated Reiske, who was -then well known to be struggling with starvation, in order to thrust -forward Von Haven, a pupil of his own, who, but for this partial -choice, would probably have lived and died in obscurity. Niebuhr -himself was recommended to Michaelis by Kästner, whose pupil he had -for some time been. The proposal was abruptly made, and as suddenly -accepted. “Have you a mind,” said Kästner, “to go into Arabia?”--“Why -not?” replied Niebuhr, “if anybody will pay my expenses.”--“The King -of Denmark,” said Kästner, “will pay your expenses.” He then entered -into the history of the Danish ministry’s project, and Niebuhr, whose -genuine ambition was most ardent, and who, though in manners modest -and unassuming, could not but entertain a favourable opinion of his -own capacity, at once engaged to form a member of the mission. It was -agreed, on the part of his Danish majesty, that he should be allowed -a year and a half for preparation, with a salary sufficient for his -maintenance. - -Niebuhr had now a definite object. The East, with all its barbaric -pomp and historical glory, which in preceding and succeeding days -have kindled enthusiasm in so many bosoms, appeared to court his -examination; and, like a lover who appreciates at their highest value -the accomplishments of his mistress, and is bent on rendering himself -worthy of her, he thenceforward studied, with vehement earnestness, -all those branches of knowledge which he regarded as necessary to a -traveller in the East; and Latin, Arabic, the mathematics, drawing, -practical mechanics, together with the history of the countries he was -about to visit, amply occupied his hours. An additional half-year being -granted him, it was not until the Michaelmas of 1760 that he quitted -Göttingen for Copenhagen. - -Here he was received in the most flattering manner by Count -Bernstorf, the Danish minister, by whom he was appointed lieutenant -of engineers. The rank of captain he modestly refused. Niebuhr was -never possessed by an immoderate desire for wealth, and a trait of -unpresuming disinterestedness which escaped him during his preparatory -studies is at once illustrative of this fact, and of another equally -important,--that wealth no less than fame is frequently best won by -carefully abstaining from grasping at it too eagerly. The salary -granted him by the King of Denmark was probably small, but our -traveller, with that repugnance to solicit which is characteristic -of superior minds, not only contrived to reduce his wants within the -limits of his means, but by rigid economy enabled himself, moreover, -to purchase at his own expense whatever instruments he needed. The -knowledge of this fact coming to the ears of the minister, he not only -reimbursed the young traveller the sum he had expended, but, as a mark -of the high satisfaction he derived from so striking an evidence of -honest independence, committed to his charge the travelling-chest of -the mission. - -Niebuhr’s companions were four in number: Von Haven, the linguist, a -person of mean capacity; Forskaal, the naturalist, distinguished for -his numerous and profound acquirements; Cramer, a physician, devoid -even of professional knowledge; and Baurenfeind, an artist, not -destitute of talent, but ignorant, full of prejudices, and addicted to -the vulgar habit of drinking. Von Haven, to whom a long sea-voyage was -disagreeable, obtained permission to proceed to Marseilles by land; -and the ship in which the other members of the expedition embarked was -directed to take him on board at that port. They left the Sound on the -7th of January, 1761, but were three times driven back by contrary -winds; so that it was not until the 10th of March that they were -enabled fairly to put to sea, and continue their voyage. - -Niebuhr describes, among the singular things observed during this -voyage, a white rainbow, which only differed from the common rainbow in -being destitute of colours. This, I believe, is a phenomenon not often -witnessed; but on the 21st of May, 1830, which succeeded a day and -night of tremendous thunder, lightning, and rain, I remember to have -myself seen a similar rainbow in Normandy. It was much thicker, but -greatly inferior in span, and less sharply defined at the edges than -the ordinary bow; and, as the morning mist upon which it was painted -grew thinner, the arch decreased in span, until it at length vanished -entirely. - -Our traveller amused himself while on board in observing the manners -of the crew, which he considered manly though unpolished. He likewise -exercised himself daily in nautical and astronomical observations; -and by his affability and the extent of his knowledge, acquired and -preserved the respect of both officers and men. They discovered Cape -St. Vincent on the 21st of April, and a few days afterward entered the -Mediterranean, where their course was considerably retarded by calms -and contrary winds. Meanwhile the weather was beautiful, and their -eyes were refreshed with the most lovely prospects, now on the African -shores, and now on those of Europe. On the 14th of May they cast anchor -in the port of Marseilles, which was at that time crowded by Swedish, -Danish, Dutch, Spanish, and French ships, the greater number of which -were prevented from putting to sea by fear of the English fleets, which -scoured the Mediterranean, diffusing consternation and terror on all -sides. - -From the agreeable society of Marseilles, rendered doubly charming in -their estimation by their previous privation, they were soon compelled -to snatch themselves away. On the 6th of June Niebuhr observed at sea -the transit of Venus, and on the 14th reached Malta. This little island -enjoys, like Ireland, the privilege of being free from serpents, which -it is supposed to owe to the interference of St. Paul; though Niebuhr -imagines that the dry and rocky nature of the soil is sufficient, -without a miracle, to account for the circumstance. The knights -observing, perhaps, a peculiar absence of bigotry in our traveller, -imagined that this indicated a leaning towards Catholicism, and -appear to have been desirous of tempting him by magnificent promises -to desert the creed of his forefathers. Though his stay in Malta was -very short, Niebuhr was careful to observe whatever curiosities the -island afforded: the great church of St. John, enriched, it is said, by -sharing the plunder of the knights, with innumerable ornaments, and a -prodigious candelabrum of gold; the hospital, where the sick, whatever -might be their medical treatment, were served with vessels of silver; -the immense corn-magazines, hewn out in the rock; the salt-mines; and -the catacombs. For some reason, however, which is not stated, he did -not see the Phenician inscription, which was still preserved in the -island. - -In sailing from Malta to Smyrna he was attacked with dysentery, and -began to fear that his travels were to terminate there; but the -disorder was less serious than he imagined, and having reached Tenedos, -he embarked in a Turkish boat, and proceeded up the Dardanelles to -Constantinople. Here, though slowly, he recovered his health, and -having remained quiet two months, and provided oriental dresses, not -choosing to expose himself in the paltry costume of Europe to the -laughter of the populace, he set sail with his companions for Egypt. - -On the way they landed at Rhodes, where, for the first time they -visited a Turkish eating-house. The dinner, though dear, was good, but -was served up in common earthen platters, in the open street. They -next visited a Jew, who kept wine for the accommodation of Europeans; -and had in his house two young women, whom he called his daughters, -who were probably designed for the same purpose. Their reception here -cost them still dearer than their Turkish dinner; and as Jews, wine, -and the drinkers of wine are held in contempt by all sincere and -respectable Mohammedans, this must be considered a highly injudicious -step in Niebuhr. The ship in which they sailed had on board a number -of female slaves, the principal of whom were lodged in a large chamber -directly over their cabin, from which we may infer that the Turks do -not, like the Burmese, consider it a disgrace to have women walking -over their heads. As there were tolerably wide cracks in the ceiling, -our travellers frequently enjoyed the pleasure of viewing these ladies, -who, though a little terrified at first, soon became accustomed to -their faces, and notwithstanding that neither party at all understood -the language of the other, many little presents of fruit and other -trifles were given and returned. The mode in which this affair was -conducted was ingenious. As soon as the Mohammedans collected together -for prayer, the girls gently tapped at their windows, and Niebuhr -and Forskaal, looking out of the cabin, beheld the handkerchiefs of -the fair held out for fruit. When filled, they were drawn up, and -the presents they chose to make in return were then lowered down in -the same way. During the voyage, six or eight persons having died -suddenly, it was suspected that they had the plague on board; but -Niebuhr imagined that other causes might have hastened the end of those -who died; at all events, none of the members of the expedition were -infected, though their physician had often visited the sick. - -The land of Egypt at length appeared on the 26th of September, and -on the same day, late in the evening, they cast anchor in the port -of Alexandria. Norden, a scientific, but an uninteresting traveller, -having recently constructed a plan of the city, Niebuhr judged that -he might spare himself the pains of repeating the process, more -especially as the Arabs, hovering in troops in the vicinity, rendered -him apprehensive that he might be robbed. However, as the eminence on -which Pompey’s pillar stands overlooks a large portion of the city, he -amused himself with taking several angles from thence, intending to -follow this up by taking others from some other positions. While he was -thus engaged, one of the Turkish merchants, who happened to be present, -observing his telescope pointed towards the city, had the curiosity to -look through it, and was not a little alarmed at perceiving a tower -upside down. “This,” says he, “gave occasion to a rumour, that I was -come to Alexandria to turn the whole city topsyturvy. The report -reached the governor’s house. My janizary refused to accompany me -when I took out my instrument; and as I then supposed that a European -could not venture to appear in an eastern city without a janizary, I -relinquished the idea of making any further geometrical measurements -there.”--“On another occasion,” he continues, “when I was making an -astronomical observation on the southern point of the Delta, a very -civil and sensible peasant, from the village of Daraúe, happened to be -present. As I wished to show him something he had never seen before, I -pointed the telescope of the quadrant towards his village, on which he -was extremely terrified at seeing all the houses upside down. He asked -my servant what could be the cause of this. The man replied, that the -government, being extremely dissatisfied with the inhabitants of that -village, had sent me to overthrow it entirely. The poor peasant was -greatly afflicted, and entreated me to wait long enough for him to take -his wife, his children, and his cow to some place of safety. My servant -assured him he had two hours good. He immediately ran home, and as soon -as the sun had passed the meridian, I took my quadrant on board again.” - -Niebuhr found a number of Mohammedans at Alexandria who understood -French, Swedish, and Danish as completely as if they had been born -in the countries where those languages are spoken. As most European -travellers proceed up the Nile from this city to Cairo, the members of -the expedition were desirous of performing the journey by land, but -were restrained by fear of the Arabs; and M. Forskaal, who afterward -ventured upon this hardy enterprise, was actually stripped to the -skin, and with great difficulty obtained back his breeches. Niebuhr -now hired a small ship, and embarked on the 31st of October, but was -detained in the Gulf of Aboukir by contrary winds. Impatient of delay, -his companions proceeded thence to Rosetta by land, with a company of -Turks; but our traveller continued his voyage, and reached the city -very shortly after them. Though the inhabitants of Rosetta enjoyed the -reputation of being peculiarly polite towards strangers, Niebuhr was -too impatient to behold the capital of modern Egypt to linger long in -any provincial city; he therefore hastened to ascend the Nile, and -enjoyed the romantic prospect of fertility, villages peeping through -groves of date-trees, and here and there vast wrecks of ancient cities, -which all travellers in that extraordinary country have admired. They -arrived at Cairo on the 10th of November. - -The Nile, like the Ganges, has long been renowned for the daring race -of pirates who infest it. Bruce, and many other travellers, have -celebrated their ingenuity; but the following anecdote, related by -Niebuhr, exhibits their exquisite skill in a still more favourable -point of view: A pasha, recently arrived in Egypt, happening to -be encamped on the banks of the river, his servants, aware of the -dexterity of their countrymen, kept so strict a watch during the -night, that they detected one of the pirates, and brought him before -the pasha, who threatened to put him to death on the spot. The -prisoner, however, entreated permission to show the pasha one of the -extraordinary tricks of his art, in the hope of thereby inducing him to -spare his life. The permission was granted. The man then took up the -pasha’s garments, and whatever else he found in the tent, and having -tied them up into a packet, as the Egyptians do when they are about to -swim across a river, made several turns before the company to amuse -them. He then insensibly approached the Nile, and darting into the -water like lightning, had already reached the opposite shore, with the -pasha’s garments upon his head, before the Turks could get ready their -muskets to fire at him. - -Niebuhr was exceedingly desirous, soon after his arrival at Cairo, of -descending the eastern branch of the Nile to Damietta; but the sky -during the whole winter and spring was so overcast with clouds, and the -rain fell so frequently, that it was impossible to take astronomical -observations. On the 1st of May, however, the weather having cleared -up, he left Cairo. The wind blowing from the north, their progress -was slow, and he had therefore considerable leisure for observation. -The Coptic churches amused him much. In one of these he saw pictures -representing Christ, the Virgin, and several saints, on horseback; -intended, perhaps, to insinuate to their Mohammedan masters, that the -founder of their religion and his followers had not been compelled, -as Christians then were in Egypt, to ride upon asses. These churches, -moreover, were strewed with so many crutches, that a stranger might -conclude, upon observing them, that the whole Coptic community had lost -the use of their limbs; however, upon inquiry, our traveller discovered -that it was the custom among them to stand in church, which many -persons found so wearisome that they resolved to aid their piety with -crutches. The floors were covered with mats, which, not being changed -very frequently, swarmed with fleas, numbers of which did our traveller -the honour to prefer him before any of their ancient patrons. In -approaching Damietta he saw about twenty large boats loaded with bees: -each of these boats carried two hundred hives; the number, therefore, -of the hives here assembled in one spot, was four thousand; and when -the inhabitants of this floating city issued forth to visit the flowers -of the neighbourhood, they must have appeared like a locust cloud. - -His stay at Damietta, which is about four miles above the mouth of the -Nile, was short. Europeans are nowhere in the East so much detested, on -account, chiefly, of the profligate character of the French formerly -settled there, who, having debauched several Mohammedan women, were -nearly all massacred by the infuriated populace. Niebuhr’s fancy -that they still remember the crusades, and hate the Franks for the -evils those insane expeditions inflicted on their ancestors, is just -as rational as if the English people were to be supposed to nourish -resentment against all the northern nations, because their barbarous -ancestors made piratical descents upon our coasts. - -While at Cairo he could not, of course, resist the desire of visiting -the Pyramids. He therefore hired two Bedouin guides, and proceeded with -his friend Forskaal towards the desert, where they were encountered by -a young sheïkh, who, by dint of bravado and insolence, succeeded in -extorting from them a small sum of money; but had they, when he first -offered his services, bestowed upon him half a crown, he would not only -have given them no further molestation, but would have constituted -himself their protector against all other importunates. Niebuhr -afterward returned under more favourable auspices, and completed the -measurement of the two great pyramids, the loftier of which he found to -be 443 feet, and the second to be 403 feet high. I shall hereafter, -perhaps, have occasion to remark upon the strange discrepancies which -are found between the measurements of various travellers, which are, in -fact, so great, that we must suspect some of them, at least, of having -wanted the knowledge required by such an undertaking. From considering -the petrifactions and the nature of the rocks in this neighbourhood, -Niebuhr was led to infer the prodigious antiquity of Egypt: “Supposing -the whole of the rocks in the northern portions of the country to be -composed of petrifactions of a certain kind of shell, how many years,” -says he, “must have elapsed before a sufficient number of little snails -to raise mountains to their present height could have been born and -died! How many other years before Egypt could have been drained and -become solid, supposing that, in those remote ages, the waters retired -from the shore as slowly as they have during the last ten centuries! -How many years still, before the country was sufficiently peopled to -think of erecting the first pyramid! How many more years, before that -vast multitude of pyramids which are still found in the country could -have been constructed! Considering that at the present day we are -ignorant of when, and by whom, even the most modern of them was built.” - -On the 26th of August, 1762, Niebuhr and his companions set out with -the caravan going from Cairo to Suez: the rest of the party, in spite -of the Mohammedans, mounted on horseback, and Niebuhr himself on a -dromedary. By this means he avoided several evils to which the others -were liable. Seated on his mattress he could turn his face now on one -side, now on another, to avoid the heat of the sun; and, after having -travelled all day, was no more fatigued in the evening than if he had -been all the while reposing in a chair; while the horsemen, compelled -to remain perpetually in the same posture, were well-nigh exhausted. On -the 30th they encamped near a well of good water, mentioned by Belin, -Pietro Della Valle, and Pococke, close to which the Turks formerly -erected a castle, which was now in ruins, and in three hours more -arrived at the wells of Suez, which were surrounded by a strong wall, -to keep out the Arabs, and entered by a door fastened with enormous -clumps of iron. The water here was drawn up with buckets or sacks of -leather. - -Suez, from its fortunate position on the Red Sea, carried on a -considerable trade. Numbers of ships were built there annually, the -materials of which were transported thither on the backs of camels from -Cairo. The environs consist of naked rocks, or beds of loose sand, in -which nothing but brambles and a few dry stunted plants, among others -the rose of Jericho, are found to grow. This rose is employed by the -women of the East in various superstitious practices, and is therefore -to be found for sale in all cities. When pregnant, they gather one of -the buds, and putting its stem in water, foretel whether their pains -will be severe or slight from the greater or smaller development of the -flower. - -Niebuhr’s first inquiry on arriving at Suez was concerning the -“Mountain of Inscriptions,” about which so much had been said in -Europe. The individuals to whom his first questions were put had never -even heard of it; others, who were exactly in the same predicament, -but desired to possess themselves of a little of their European gold, -professed a most accurate knowledge of the spot, but upon inquiry -were detected. At length, however, an Arab was discovered, from whose -replies it was clear, that whether he had seen the real _Gebel el -Mokatteb_ or not, some mountain or another he had beheld, upon which -inscriptions in an unknown language were to be found. Under this man’s -guidance, therefore, they placed themselves,--that is, Niebuhr and -Von Haven, for the rest were, from various causes, detained at Suez; -and leaving the Red Sea on their right-hand, they struck off into the -desert. - -As I have given a description of this part of Arabia in the life of -Dr. Shaw, it will not be necessary here to repeat what I then said. -Niebuhr found that the Arabs, whose profession it is to serve as -guides, were distinguished, like all other persons of that class, -for their extravagant cupidity. So long as they could live at the -expense of strangers their own provisions and means were assiduously -spared; but on other occasions they exhibited various symptoms that -the old national virtue of hospitality was not wholly banished from -their minds. The women in this part of Arabia are not in the habit of -concealing their faces from strangers, as is the fashion in Egypt. -Niebuhr, in his solitary rambles through the country, discovered the -wife and sister of a sheïkh grinding corn beside their tent; who, -instead of flying and concealing themselves at his approach, as he -seems to have expected, came forward, according to the good old custom -of the East, with a present in their hands. - -On arriving at what his guides called the “Mountain of Inscriptions,” a -lofty rugged eminence, which it cost them much time and toil to climb, -he found--not what he had expected--but a vast Egyptian cemetery, -in which were a great number of sepulchral monuments, covered with -hieroglyphics. These inscriptions he was not permitted to copy at the -time, because the sheïkh of the mountain apprehended he might thereby -gain possession of the immense treasures concealed beneath; but one of -his guides, who probably had little faith in that point of the sheïkh’s -creed, afterward, on his return from Mount Sinai, enabled him to copy -whatever he pleased. On his arrival at the convent of St. Catherine -the monks politely refused to admit him, alleging, as their excuse, -that he had not brought along with him a letter from their bishop. The -patriarch’s letter, which he presented to them, they returned unopened. -He was, in fact, destined to meet with nothing but disappointment in -these celebrated regions; for his Arabs, having conducted him up to -a certain height on Mount Sinai, refused to proceed any farther, and -he was not possessed of sufficient resolution to ascend the remainder -alone. - -Niebuhr now hastened back to Suez, and on his return forded the Red Sea -on his dromedary, a thing which no European had done before, though the -guides, who were on foot, did not find the water above knee deep. Being -desirous of surveying the extremity of the Arabian Gulf, he procured -a guide soon after his return from Mount Sinai, with whom he set out -upon this expedition. They travelled, however, in constant fear; and -the sight of a stranger in the distance increased the terrors of the -guide to so extraordinary a pitch, that I suspect he had blood upon his -hands, and dreaded the hour of retribution. - -The constant arrival of pilgrims from Egypt had now rendered Suez, in -proportion to its extent, more populous than Cairo. These holy men, -being on their way to the city of their prophet, regarded Christians -with an evil eye, just as a bigoted Franciscan travelling to Jerusalem -would regard a heretic or an unbeliever; and on this account Niebuhr -greatly dreaded the voyage he was about to perform in their company -from Suez to Jidda. To avoid, as far as possible, all causes of dispute -with their fellow-passengers, they embarked several days before the -rest, paid their passage, stowed away their luggage, and then amused -themselves with observing the strange characters by which they were -surrounded, not the least extraordinary of which was a rich black -eunuch, who, in imitation of the great Turkish lords, travelled with -his harem. - -All the passengers having at length repaired on board, they set sail -on the 9th of October, and sailing along coral reefs, which in bad -weather are highly dangerous, they arrived next day at Tor. Near this -town is a small village inhabited by Christians, to which Forskaal -went alone, for the purpose of visiting what is supposed to be the -site of ancient Elim. While he was absent it was rumoured on board -that the Arabs had formed the intention of pursuing and arresting the -Frank, who had landed with the design of sketching their mountains; -upon which a number of janizaries from Cairo, who happened to be on -board, immediately set out for the village, and having met with M. -Forskaal, conducted him back in safety to the vessel. “Are there many -Christians,” inquires Niebuhr, “who, under similar circumstances, would -do as much for a Jew?” - -On the evening of the 16th of October they discovered, about sunset, -the Emerald Mountains on the coast of Egypt, called _Gebel Zumrud_ by -the Arabs. Next day there happened an eclipse of the sun. In Mohammedan -countries persons who are able to calculate an eclipse are regarded as -consummate physicians. Forskaal had informed the reis, or captain, that -an eclipse was about to take place; and to amuse him and keep him from -interrupting his astronomical observations, Niebuhr had smoked several -glasses, through which he, as well as the principal merchants, might -contemplate the phenomenon. They were all greatly amused, and from that -moment Forskaal enjoyed the reputation of being a second Avicenna. From -a spirit of humane complaisance, which induces us to allow every one an -opportunity of exhibiting his peculiar talents, men are exceedingly apt -to fall ill when they come in contact with a physician. Our traveller’s -Mohammedan companions were particularly polite in this way; for no -sooner had they persuaded themselves that there was a physician on -board than they all discovered that they were attacked by diseases -which had previously lain dormant, and confidingly demanded medicines -and advice. Forskaal prescribed for all. To the majority he recommended -more or less sleep, and a careful attention to their diet. A pilgrim -at length presented himself who complained that he was unable to see -during the night. The physician advised him to light a candle. This -was excellent. The Arabs, who are naturally lively, burst into a loud -laugh, and all their diseases were forgotten in a moment. - -Between Ras Mohammed and Hassâni the ship was twice in danger of -being set on fire by the negligence of the women; but at length they -reached this small island in safety, and the Mohammedans, believing -the principal danger to be now over, exhibited various tokens of joy, -firing muskets and pistols, illuminating the ship with lamps and -lanterns, and uttering the triumphant cry of _Be, be, be!_ so commonly -used by the orientals. The sailors and the pilot petitioned for a -present, the former coming round to each passenger with a little boat -in their hands, which, when the collection was over, was thrown into -the sea. During this passage Niebuhr, who, up to his arrival at Suez, -had scarcely seen the face of a Mohammedan woman, had an opportunity -of viewing three or four of them naked in a bath; and his indiscreet -curiosity very fortunately entailed upon him no evil consequences. - -On the 29th of October they arrived at Jidda, where the usual attempts -were made to defraud the custom-house. In this praiseworthy design some -succeeded to the extent of their desires; but others, less adroit, or -more unfortunate, were detected and compelled to pay the duties, no -such atrocity as the confiscation of the whole property being ever -practised. A duty of two or two and a half _per cent._ being levied -upon all specie, people were most anxious to conceal their wealth: but -by endeavouring to effect this, one of Niebuhr’s companions suffered -severely; for in stepping from the ship into the boat, his purse, -which he had tied round his body, opened accidentally, and about a -hundred crowns fell into the sea. The common cash of the expedition was -conveyed on shore in the bottoms of their boxes of drugs, which were -not searched, it being in Arabia a general opinion that physicians, -having no need of money, seldom carry any about with them. - -Niebuhr had observed in Egypt that the populace looked with -inexpressible contempt upon Christians, and thence inferred that in -proportion as they approached the Holy City they should find this -inhospitable bigotry on the increase; but his apprehensions were -unfounded, for the people of Jidda, long accustomed to the sight of -Europeans, and constantly experiencing the humanizing influence of -commerce, were peculiarly refined, allowing strangers to do almost what -they pleased. It was merely forbidden them to approach the Mecca gate; -which, like the city to which it leads, is reputed holy. Our traveller, -during his residence at Cairo, had formed an acquaintance with a poor -sheïkh, who, for a Mohammedan, might be said to be as highly favoured -by science as he was neglected by fortune; and this man, in gratitude -for the knowledge he had derived from him, besides furnishing him -with letters of recommendation to the Kihaya and Pasha of Jidda, had -privately written to those important personages, who had honoured him -for his knowledge, earnestly requesting them to show every possible -mark of kindness and attention to his European friends. These were the -letters from which they had least expectations, and presented last; -nevertheless, when the recommendations of all their other friends -had failed even to procure them a lodging, those of the poor sheïkh -introduced them to powerful protectors. Niebuhr was here witness of the -curious mode of catching wild ducks noticed by Pococke in Upper Egypt, -and by another English traveller in China. When a number of these birds -were observed in the water, the sportsman undressed, covered his head -with seaweed, and then crept quietly into the water. By this means the -ducks were deceived, so that they allowed the man to come near and -catch them by the legs. - -They remained at Jidda until the 14th of December, when they embarked -in one of the country vessels for Loheia. Niebuhr was not possessed -of the art of painting what he saw with the fine colours of language. -His narrative is frequently dry even to insipidity. He was observant, -he was calm, he was judicious, but he was destitute of eloquence, and -this deficiency is nowhere in his works more strongly felt than in his -account of his various voyages through the Red Sea. On the 22d they -landed on the coast of Yemen, near Fej el Jelbe, inhabited by Bedouins, -who are suspected of being pagans. A few tents were discovered on the -shore, and as soon as the travellers had landed, which they did unarmed -lest they should be taken for enemies, several of the wild natives -came down to meet them. Their appearance and dress were extraordinary. -Their dark hair descended in profusion to their shoulders; and instead -of a turban, several of them had merely a cord tied round the head, -intended, I imagine, to keep their tresses in order. Others, more -careful and industrious, had woven themselves a kind of bonnet with -green palm-leaves. A miserable waist-cloth constituted the whole of -their dress. From the eagerness of the sailors to get their lances out -of their hands they immediately discovered that they were suspected; -upon which they cast the weapons on the ground, assuring the strangers -that they had nothing to fear. Notwithstanding that they had landed in -search of provisions the Bedouins conducted them to their tents, where -two women came out to meet them. Their salutation was curious. The -women, who were unveiled, kissed the arm of the sheïkh, who, in return, -pressed their heads with his lips. The ladies then advanced towards -the strangers. Their complexion was sallow brown, they had blackened -their eyelids with surme, and died their nails with henne; and, like -the lower ranks of women in Egypt, exhibited marks of tattooing on the -chin, cheeks, and forehead. Cosmetics being rare in those countries, -they requested our travellers to favour them with a small quantity of -kohol and al henne; but they had injudiciously neglected to provide -themselves with any thing of the kind, and consequently saw themselves -in the disagreeable predicament of being compelled to refuse. - -On their arrival at Loheia they were received with remarkable -politeness by the emir and the chief merchants of the city. They -had taken the small vessel in which they performed the voyage for a -longer passage as far as Hodeida; and the captain, understanding that -they had some intention of remaining at Loheia, secretly applied to -the emir with a request that he would compel them to complete their -engagement, either by proceeding all the way to Hodeida, or by paying -the whole sum agreed upon. With a generosity not often displayed -towards utter strangers by men in office, the emir replied, that should -the travellers refuse payment of the sum in question, he himself would -satisfy his demands; and the principal merchant to whom the suspicious -navigator also applied entered into the same engagement. Of course they -were not allowed to suffer by their grateful and astonished guests. - -The above merchant, in his eastern style of hospitality, gave them a -house to live in during their stay. In return the travellers amused him -and the emir with the effects of their microscopes, telescopes, &c. -These things filled them with wonder; crowds of people, curious but -well-behaved, thronged their court from morning till night, examining -with attention whatever they saw, and expressing their astonishment -at every thing. This was too much for Danish politeness. They hired a -porter, and stationing him at their door, gave strict orders that none -but professional men should be admitted. But the curiosity of the Arabs -was not to be subdued so easily; for, when all other excuses failed, -they feigned illness, and gained admittance under pretence of coming -to consult the physician. Sometimes Dr. Cramer, who appears to have -been an uncouth creature, was requested to favour sick persons with a -visit at their own houses, and one day received a pressing entreaty to -repair without delay to the _emir el bahr_, or captain of the port, -who had need of consulting him. Cramer, not attending to this summons -immediately, was shortly afterward informed that the _emir el bahr’s_ -saddle-horse was at the door waiting for him. This piece of attention -was too flattering to be resisted; he therefore descended immediately, -and was about to put his foot into the stirrup, when he was interrupted -with the information that the horse was unwell, and had been brought -there as a patient! Physicians in Arabia prescribe for horses as well -as men; this, therefore, was not meant as an insult; but Cramer, who -felt all his Danish blood curdle in his veins at the bare idea of -prescribing for a Mohammedan horse, and was, moreover, mortified at not -being allowed to mount his patient, indignantly refused to exercise -the functions of a horse-doctor. Luckily, however, their European -servant, who had served in a dragoon regiment, understood something of -the veterinary art, and undertook the cure of the emir’s horse; which -succeeding happily, he also was regarded as an eminent physician, and -was allowed to elevate his ambition to the treatment of men. - -As our travellers continued, as far as possible, to live after the -European fashion, their manners were necessarily as much an object of -curiosity to the Arabs as those of the Arabs were to them. One day two -young men came to see them eat. Of these, the one was a young nobleman -from Sana, whose gentle manners announced a superior education; the -other a young chief from the mountains, whose country was seldom -visited by strangers. This the _naïveté_ and simplicity of his manners -soon rendered manifest. Upon being invited to eat, he replied, “God -preserve me from eating with infidels, who have no belief in God!” -Niebuhr then demanded the name of his country; “What,” said he, “can -my country concern thee? Hast thou formed the design of going thither -to subdue it?” He afterward made several remarks upon their manners, -the simplicity of which excited their laughter; at which the Arab -felt ashamed, and ran away in confusion. His companion fetched him -back, however, and he returned, wondering at the amazing quantity of -food which they devoured. Fowl after fowl disappeared before these -mighty eaters; the poor Arab, who began to entertain awful ideas of -the capacity of a German stomach, and apprehending that they might -bring about a famine in the land, for a while looked on in silent -amazement; but when they had already eaten as much as would, perhaps, -have satisfied a whole tribe of Bedouins, he started up, upon seeing -Von Haven preparing to carve yet another fowl, and seizing him by the -arm, exclaimed, “How much, then, dost thou intend to eat?” This sally -produced still louder peals of laughter than ever, and the poor Arab, -who probably apprehended that they might finish by eating him, rushed -out of the house and disappeared. - -Having sufficiently observed whatever was interesting or new at Loheia, -they departed thence on the 20th of February, 1763, their servants and -baggage mounted on camels, and themselves on asses. Not that Europeans -were here, as at Cairo, prohibited from riding on horseback, but that -horses were dear and not easily to be hired, while the asses, though -comparatively cheap, were large fine animals, of easy gait. Arabia, it -is well known, is surrounded by a belt of burning sand, which has in -all ages aided in protecting it from invasion. This our travellers had -now to traverse, but they suffered no particular inconvenience from the -heat, and in four days arrived at _Beit el Fakih_, the greatest coffee -emporium in the world. - -Niebuhr, being now in a country where travelling was attended with -no risk, and desiring, apparently, to escape from the society of -his companions, hired an ass, and set out alone on an excursion to -several neighbouring towns. This was succeeded by several other -excursions, and at length he proceeded to the Coffee Mountains, a -district which offers, perhaps, as many curious particulars to the -observation of a traveller as any spot in Asia. These mountains could -be ascended only on foot. The road, though rugged and broken, lay -through coffee plantations and gardens, and to Niebuhr, who had just -quitted the burning plains of the Tehama, afforded the most exquisite -gratification. The prospects, moreover, which here meet the eye on all -sides are rich and beautiful. They are precisely what the hills of -Judea must have been before Sion had been profaned by the heathen, when -every man, confident in the protection of the Lord, sat down tranquilly -under his vine or under his fig-tree. The small chain of hills, called -the Côte d’Or, which traverses nearly the whole of Burgundy from north -to south, and is covered with vineyards to the summit, may probably -represent to a European eye the ridge of the Coffee Mountains, except -that the latter have necessarily a more woody appearance, and are -beautified by numerous mountain streams, which frequently leap in long -cascades from the rocks. The coffee-tree, which was at this time in -full flower in many places, diffuses around an agreeable odour, and -somewhat resembles the Spanish jasmin. The Arabs plant these trees so -close that the rays of the sun can scarcely find their way between -them, which prevents the necessity of frequent watering; but they have -reservoirs on the heights from which they can, when necessary, turn -numerous streamlets into the plantations. - -From the Coffee Mountains they returned to Beit el Fakih, whence they -shortly afterward departed on another short excursion. The natives, who -carefully abstained from exposing themselves to the sun during the heat -of the day, expressed their well-grounded astonishment that Europeans -should be imprudent enough to hazard so dangerous a step; and our -travellers were, in reality, at this very time laying the foundation of -those fatal diseases which shortly afterward swept them away, Niebuhr -only excepted; for I am persuaded that they might have returned, even -in spite of their execrable diet and destructive habits of drinking, -to brave the climate of Yemen, had they timed their journeys more -judiciously. - -By this time their appearance was tolerably oriental; the sun had -bronzed their countenances, their beards had acquired a respectable -length, their dress was exactly that of the country, and they had, -moreover, adopted Arabic names. Even their guides no longer took them -for Europeans, but supposed them to be members of the eastern church, -who by forbidden studies had succeeded in discovering the art of making -gold, and were searching among the lonely recesses of their mountains -for some rare plant whose juices were requisite in their alchymical -processes. Niebuhr’s assiduous observation of the stars considerably -aided in strengthening this delusion, which upon the whole, perhaps, -was rather beneficial to them than otherwise. - -In the hilly districts of Yemen our traveller observed among the -Arabs a peculiar mode of passing the night. Instead of making use -of a bed, each individual crept entirely naked into a sack, where, -without closing the mouth of it, the breath and transpiration kept him -sufficiently warm. Niebuhr himself never tried the sack, but very soon -acquired the habit, which is universal among the Arabs of Yemen, of -sleeping with the face covered, to guard against the malignant effects -of the dews and poisonous winds. Here M. Forskaal discovered the small -tree that produces the balm of Mecca, which happening to be in flower -at the time enabled him to write a complete description of it, which he -did seated under its branches. The inhabitants, who knew nothing of its -value, merely made use of it as firewood, on account of its agreeable -odour. - -Upon descending from these mountainous countries, where the climate -is as cool and salubrious as in most parts of Europe, Niebuhr found -the heat of the Tehama almost insupportable, and entering a little -coffee-house, overwhelmed with fatigue, threw himself on his mat in -a current of air, and fell asleep. This heedless action nearly cost -him his life. He awoke in a violent fever, which hung about him for a -considerable time, and reduced his frame to such an extreme state of -weakness that the slightest exertion became painful. Von Haven, too, -whose supreme delight consisted in brandy, wine, and good eating, and -who seldom quitted his sofa, except for the purpose of placing himself -before his gods at the dinner-table, now began to experience the -impolicy of feeding like an ogre in the deserts of the Tehama, and very -quickly fell a victim to his imprudence. - -From Beit el Fakih they proceeded to Mokha, where, as at Cairo, -Europeans were compelled to enter the city by a particular gate, -on foot, as a mark of humiliation. Niebuhr found that he and his -companions were here taken for Turks, and they were accordingly -directed to the khan, or inn, where the Osmanlis usually took up -their abode. Though they understood that there was an English merchant -at Mokha, they judged it unnecessary, in the first instance, to make -application to him, as they had everywhere else in Yemen been received -with politeness and hospitality; and besides, they were somewhat -apprehensive that, from their dress and appearance, he might be led -to regard them as vagabonds or renegades. They therefore addressed -themselves to an Arab merchant, by whom they were well received. - -The people of Mokha made some pretensions to civilization, which is -unfortunate, as the term, at least in the East, means custom-house -officers, and insolence towards strangers. Our travellers, though no -merchants, had large quantities of baggage, which, of course, was taken -to the custom-house, before they could be allowed to enjoy the use -of it. I have already observed, that although Niebuhr himself was a -temperate, perhaps even an abstemious man, his companions set a high -value on the gratification of their senses. Von Haven himself, who, -as I have already observed, shortly afterward fell a victim to his -indiscretion, was still among them, and it may therefore be easily -imagined that the first articles they were desirous of obtaining from -the custom-house were their cooking utensils and their beds. The -Arabs, however, were differently minded. They allowed their curiosity -to fasten upon the cases in which the natural history specimens were -packed, and resolved to begin with them. Among these, unfortunately, -there was a small barrel containing various fish of the Red Sea, -preserved in spirits of wine. This M. Forskaal, who had collected -these fishes himself, injudiciously requested the officers to allow to -pass unopened. The request immediately roused all their suspicions. -He might, for aught they knew, be a magician, who had confined the -Red Sea itself in that barrel, for the purpose of carrying it off, -with all its fishes, into Europe. It behooved them, therefore, to -bestir themselves. Accordingly the barrel was the first thing opened; -but when the operation had been performed, the result anticipated by -the naturalist was produced, for so pungent, so atrocious a stink -was emitted from the half-putrefied fish, that the authorities very -probably apprehended them to be a troop of assassins, commissioned -by the devil to administer perdition through the nostrils to all -true believers. The custom-house officer, however, confiding in the -protection of the Prophet, determined to brave the infernal odour, and -in order to explore the abomination to the bottom, took out the horrid -remains of the fish, and stirred up the liquor with a piece of iron. -The entreaties of the travellers to have it put on one side probably -caused them to be regarded as ghouls, who made their odious repasts -upon such foul preparations. The Arab still stirred and stirred, and at -length in an inauspicious moment upset the cask, and deluged the whole -custom-house with its contents. Had Mohammed himself been boiled in -this liquid, it could not have smelt more execrably; we may therefore -easily imagine the disgust with which the grave assembly beheld it -flowing under their beards, infecting them with a scent which it would -take several dirrhems’ worth of perfume to remove. Their ill-humour -was increased when, on opening another cask, containing insects, their -nostrils were again saluted with a fresh variety of stink, which they -inferred must possess peculiar charms for the nose of a Frank, since -he would travel so far to procure himself the enjoyment of its savour. -An idea now began to suggest itself to the Arabs, which still further -irritated them, which was, that the insolent Franks had packed up -these odious things in order to insult the governor of the city, at -the expense of whose beard, it was not doubted, they intended to amuse -themselves. This persuasion was fatal to many a cockleshell. They -mercilessly thrust down a pointed iron bar through the collections, -crushing shells, and beetles, and spiders. The worst stroke of all, -however, was yet to come. This was the opening of a small cask, in -which several kinds of serpents were preserved in spirits. Everybody -was now terrified. It was suggested that the Franks had no doubt come -to the city for the purpose of poisoning the inhabitants, and had -represented themselves as physicians in order to commit their horrid -crimes the more effectually. Even the governor was now moved. In fact, -his anger was roused to such a pitch, that, though a grave and pious -man, he exclaimed, “By God, these people shall not pass the night in -our city!” The custom-house was then closed. - -While they were in this perplexity, one of their servants arrived in -great hurry and confusion, with the news that their books and clothes -had been thrown out through the window at their lodgings, and the door -shut against them. They moreover found, upon inquiry, that it would -be difficult to discover any person who would receive into his house -individuals suspected of meditating the poisoning of the city; but at -length a man bold enough to undertake this was found. Such was their -position when they received from the English merchant above alluded to -an invitation to dinner. “Never,” says Niebuhr, “was an invitation more -gladly accepted; for we not only found at his house a dinner such as we -had never seen since our departure from Cairo, but had at the same time -the good fortune to meet with a man who became our sincere and faithful -friend. The affair of the custom-house was long and tedious; but at -length, by dint of bribery and perseverance, their baggage, snakes -and all, was delivered to them, and they even rose, in consequence -of a cure attempted by M. Cramer on the governor’s leg, into high -consideration and favour.” - -Niebuhr was here again attacked by dysentery, and Von Haven died. -This event inspired the whole party with terror, and having with -much difficulty obtained the governor’s permission, they shortly -afterward departed for the interior. They travelled by night, to escape -the extreme heat of the sun, but soon found the roads so bad as to -render this mode of journeying impracticable. The country during the -early part of their route was barren, and but thinly inhabited; but -in proportion as they departed from the shore the landscape improved -in beauty and fertility. At the small city of Jerim, on the road to -Sana, Niebuhr had the misfortune to lose his friend Forskaal, the best -Arabic scholar of the whole party, and a man who looked forward with -enthusiasm to the glory to be derived from the successful termination -of their travels. The bigotry of the Mohammedans rendered it difficult -to obtain a place of burial for the dead, who was interred in the -European fashion; which, immediately after their departure, caused the -Arabs, who imagine that Europeans bury treasures with their dead, to -exhume the body. Finding nothing to reward their pains, they compelled -the Jews to reinter him; and as these honest people complained that -they were likely to have no remuneration for their labour, the governor -allowed them to take the coffin in payment, and restore the body naked -to the earth. - -On the 17th of July, 1763, they arrived in the environs of Sana, and -sent forward a servant with a letter, announcing their arrival to the -chief minister of the imam. This statesman, however, who had previously -received tidings of their approach, and was desirous of receiving -them with true Arab politeness, had already despatched one of his -secretaries to meet them at the distance of half a league from the -city. This gentleman informed them that they had been long expected -at Sana, and that, in order to render their stay agreeable, the imam -had assigned them a country-house at _Bir el Assab_. While they were -conversing with the secretary, and secretly congratulating themselves -on their good fortune, they arrived at the entrance into their garden, -where the Arab desired them to alight. They of course obeyed, but soon -discovered that their guide had played them a trick in the manner of -the people of Cairo, for he remained on his ass during the rest of -the way, which was considerable, enjoying the pleasure of beholding a -number of Franks toiling along on foot beside his beast. This put them -out of humour, and their spleen was increased when, on arriving at -their villa, they found that, however elegant or agreeable it might be, -it did not contain a single article of furniture, or a person who would -provide them even with bread and water. - -Next day, however, they received from the imam a present of five sheep, -three camel-loads of wood, a large quantity of wax-tapers, rice, and -spices. At the same time they were informed that two days at least -would elapse before they could obtain an audience, a matter about which -they were indifferent; but that they could not in the mean time quit -their house. Though considerably chagrined at the latter circumstance, -they hoped in some measure to neutralize its effects, by receiving -the visits of such natives as curiosity, or any other motive, might -allure to the house; and accordingly were very much gratified at the -appearance of a Jew, who had performed in their company the journey -from Cairo to Loheia. This young Israelite, delighted to spend a -few moments in the company of persons who received him without any -demonstrations of contempt, appeared to experience a gratification in -obliging them; and came on the second day accompanied by one of the -most celebrated astrologers of his sect, from whom Niebuhr learned the -Hebrew appellations of several stars. While he was yet conversing with -this learned descendant of Abraham, the secretary of the imam arrived. -They were ignorant of the etiquette of the court of Sana, according to -which they should have abstained from receiving as well as from paying -visits; but the secretary, whose business it was to have instructed -them on these points, doubly enraged by their infraction of the rules -of decorum, and by a sense of his own negligence, directed all the -violence of his fury against the unfortunate Jews, whose society he -imagined must have been equally disagreeable to the travellers as it -would have been to him. He therefore not only expelled them from the -house, but, in order to protect the imam’s guests from a repetition -of the same intrusion, gave peremptory orders to their Mohammedan -attendant to admit no person whatever until they should have obtained -their audience. - -Two days after their arrival they were admitted into the presence of -the imam. It is probable that, having previously formed an exalted -idea of the splendour of oriental princes, the reader will be liable -to disappointment on the present occasion. The riches and magnificence -of the califs, however, of which we find so many glowing descriptions -in the Thousand and One Nights, in D’Herbelot, and many other writers, -have long passed away, leaving to the successors of those religious -monarchs nothing but remembrance of ancient glory, which gleams like a -meteoric light about their throne and diadem. Niebuhr, arriving at Sana -from the sandy deserts of the Tehama, where poverty reigns paramount -over every thing, enjoyed the advantage of possessing an imagination -sobered by stern realities. His fancy depicted the court of the imam in -the livery of the desert. He expected little. If he was disappointed, -therefore, it was not disagreeably. - -The imam, with a vanity pardonable enough in a prince who learns from -his cradle to estimate his own greatness by the pomp and glitter -which surround him, had in fact employed the two days elapsed since -the arrival of his guests in active preparations for their reception; -and the rules of etiquette forbidding strangers to pay or receive -visits during the interval, were originally intended to conceal this -circumstance, and create the belief that the holyday appearance of -the court was its ordinary costume. Our travellers were conducted to -the palace by the minister’s secretary, who here performed what is -called the mehmandar’s office in Persia. They found the great court -of the edifice thronged with horses, officers, and other Arabs of -various grades; so that it required the ministry of the imam’s grand -equerry to open them a way through the crowd. The hall of audience was -a spacious square apartment, vaulted above, and having on its centre -several fountains of water, which, gushing aloft to a considerable -height, and falling again incessantly, maintained a refreshing coolness -in the air. A broad divan, adorned with fine Persian carpets, occupied -the extremity of the hall, and flanked the throne, which was merely -covered with silken stuffs, and rich cushions. Here the imam sat -cross-legged, according to the custom of the East. He received the -travellers graciously, allowed them to kiss the hem of his garment, and -the back and palm of his hand--an honour which is but sparingly granted -to strangers. At the conclusion of this ceremony a herald cried aloud, -“God save the imam!” and all the people repeated the same words. As -their knowledge of Arabic was still very limited, they conversed with -the imam by means of an interpreter, a contrivance admirably adapted -for shortening public conferences, since there are few persons who, -under such circumstances, would be disposed to indulge in useless -circumlocution. - -The result of this audience was, that they obtained the prince’s -permission to remain in the country as long as they desired; and on -their retiring, a small present in money was sent them, which they -judiciously determined to accept. In the afternoon of the same day -they were invited to the minister’s villa, where Niebuhr exhibited -his mathematical instruments, his microscopes, books, engravings, &c.; -at the sight of which Fakih Achmed expressed the highest satisfaction. -From the various questions which he put to them, they discovered, -moreover, that he himself was a man of very considerable knowledge, -particularly in geography; while from his constant intercourse with -foreigners his manners had acquired an ease and gracefulness which -rendered his company highly pleasing. Nevertheless, Niebuhr, who feared -that the cupidity of this minister, or of some other courtier, might be -excited by the sight of his instruments, regretted to perceive these -tokens of curiosity, and the necessity he was under of satisfying it; -but his suspicions, which appear to have been as unfounded as they -were illiberal, were not of long duration, for no man demanded of him -any part of his property, or seemed to regard it with covetousness. -He, in fact, learned shortly afterward that even the presents which it -was judged necessary to make both to the imam and his minister were -altogether unexpected, since they were not merchants, and demanded no -favours of prince or courtiers. - -Niebuhr confesses that the reception which he and his companions met -with at Sana was marked by a degree of civility and friendship that -far surpassed their expectations. The Arabs would seem, indeed, to -have derived so much gratification from their society, that it is -more than probable they would willingly have made some sacrifice to -retain them; but the death of Von Haven and Forskaal had cast a damp -over their imaginations; they apprehended that disease might even -then be undermining their constitutions, and were therefore more -desirous of flying from the country than of studying its productions -or its inhabitants. When they departed from Mokha several English -ships were lying there, taking in cargoes of coffee for India; and -this circumstance, by promising to facilitate their progress farther -towards the east, operated strongly upon their determination to quit -Arabia, the original object of their mission, for other regions which -appeared more agreeable. One of Niebuhr’s biographers appears to -think that it was mere solicitude to transmit to Europe an account of -what had been performed by the expedition, and not any apprehension -of danger, which rendered him so exceedingly desirous of quitting -Yemen, for that he never clung to life with any great eagerness. I -have by no means an unfavourable opinion of Niebuhr’s courage, which, -on the contrary, I consider to have been in general equal to the -dangers to which he was exposed; but I nowhere find any traces of that -stoical indifference about life and death which his biographer seems -to attribute to him; and am persuaded, that on the occasion of his -departure from Sana, it was the apprehension of death, united, perhaps, -with a longing for European society, which actuated his movements. -At the same time I acknowledge that his fears were natural, and that -most travellers under similar circumstances would have acted much the -same way. We miss, however, in Niebuhr, both on this and on all other -occasions, the chivalrous spirit of Marco Polo, Pietro della Valle, -Chardin, and Bruce, as we miss in his writings the enthusiasm which -casts so powerful a charm over the records of their adventures. - -The same reasons which induce me to acknowledge the rational nature -of Niebuhr’s apology for suddenly quitting Yemen long before he had -completed his examination and description of it, incline me likewise -to accept his reasons for avoiding the road by Jerim and Táäs, which -would have led him by Haddâfa and Dhâfar, where Hamyaric inscriptions -were said to exist. He had already been frequently deceived by the -misrepresentations of Arabic ignorance, and therefore doubted the -accuracy of his informants. The three remaining members of the mission -set out from Sana on the 26th of July, and, arriving at Mokha on the -5th of August, found that their apprehensions of danger at Sana, which, -though excusable, were not well founded, had precipitated them into -real peril; for the English ship in which they intended to embark was -by no means ready to sail, so that they had to remain in that burning -climate nearly a whole month, during which almost every individual in -the party, servants and all, fell sick. - -The ship in which Niebuhr at length set sail for India belonged to Mr. -Francis Scott, a younger son of the Scotts of Harden, a jacobite family -of Roxburghshire. With this gentleman Niebuhr ever after lived on terms -of intimate friendship; and “five-and-thirty years afterward,” says our -traveller’s son, the historian of the Roman republic, “when I studied -in Edinburgh, I was received in all respects as one of the family in -the house of this venerable man, who then lived at his ease in the -Scottish capital on the fortune he had acquired by honourable industry.” - -On his arrival at Bombay he met with the most cordial reception from -the English, in whose society he had first learned to delight while in -Egypt. Here he spent a considerable time in studying the manners and -customs of the Hindoos, and his observations, though now destitute of -value, must at that time have possessed considerable interest, above -all on the Continent. He here lost Cramer, the last of his companions; -Baurenfeind, the artist, having died on the voyage. During his stay at -Bombay he made a voyage to Surat, famous in the history of oriental -commerce and in the Arabian Nights; but his stay was short, and he -returned to Bombay without pushing his researches any farther into the -interior. The passion for travelling was certainly never very powerful -in Niebuhr; but he was posessed by considerable curiosity, and this -passion induced him to form the design of proceeding in an English ship -to China; but being unwell at the time of the ship’s departure, he -relinquished the design, which he never afterward resumed. - -His residence at Bombay, a much less healthy place than Sana, was -continued so long, that I am strongly inclined to suspect the want of -European society may, after all, have numbered among his most powerful -reasons for hurrying from Yemen. From this city he forwarded the -manuscripts of his deceased companions as well as his own papers, by -way of London, to Copenhagen; and at length, on the 8th of December, -1764, set sail in one of the company’s ships of war, bound for Muskat -and the Persian Gulf. During this voyage he beheld the surface of -the sea for half a German mile in extent covered at night with that -luminous appearance which we denominate “phosphoric fires;” and which, -according to his opinion, arises entirely from shoals of medusas, which -by the English sailors are called “blubbers.” A few days afterward, -as they approached the shore of Oman, they were accompanied for a -considerable distance by a troop of dolphins, which, by the persevering -manner in which they followed the ship, seemed, as Lucian jocularly -observes, to be animated by a kind of philanthropy, as when they bore -Melicerta and Arion to the shore on their backs. - -They arrived at Muskat on the 3d of January, 1765; and here Niebuhr, -had the interior of Arabia possessed any attractions for him, had once -more an opportunity of indulging his curiosity, and fulfilling the -original design of the expedition; for, from the humane and polished -manners of the people of Oman, travelling was here, he says, attended -with no more danger than in Yemen. He preferred, however, ascending the -Persian Gulf in an English ship; and therefore, after a stay of a few -days, set sail for Abusheher, where he arrived on the 4th of February. - -Here Niebuhr, who had learned the English language at Bombay, found -himself still in the company of one of our countrymen, from whom -he obtained a plan of the city, together with much curious and -valuable information respecting the country and its inhabitants. -This Englishman, whose name was Jervis, spoke, read, and wrote the -Persian with fluency, and amused himself with making a collection of -manuscripts in that language; among which was the “Life of Nadir Shah,” -by his own private secretary Mohammed Mahadi Khan. The authenticity of -this work was so highly spoken of in Persia, that Niebuhr was at some -pains to procure a copy of it for the King of Denmark’s library; and -it was from this copy that Sir William Jones afterward compiled his -“History of Nadir Shah,” once celebrated, but now sunk into oblivion. -At Abusheher our traveller saw several of that species of cat numbers -of which are now brought into Europe from Angola. They were procured -from Kermân, and it was said that they would nowhere breed except in -those countries in which the shawl goat was found--an opinion which has -long been proved to have been erroneous. - -Shortly after Niebuhr’s arrival at Abusheher, Mr. Jervis determined -upon sending a quantity of merchandise to Shiraz; and his intention was -no sooner made public, than a number of petty merchants, together with -several families from the interior, who had been expelled from their -homes by the troubles consequent upon the death of Nadir Shah, desired -to unite themselves to his party; and thus a small kafilah was at once -formed. So excellent an opportunity of visiting the most beautiful city -of Persia, as well as the famous ruins of Persepolis, was not to be -overlooked. Our traveller therefore joined the trading caravan, and on -the 15th of February set out for the interior. - -For this journey, however, he was but badly prepared. He was wholly -ignorant of the Persian language, and therefore, had he not by great -good fortune found some persons among the party who spoke Arabic, as -well as an Armenian who was a tolerable master of the Italian, he must -have been reduced to depend upon the universal but scanty language of -signs. Strange to say, likewise, he had abandoned the oriental costume, -though fully aware, by his own account, of the advantages to be -derived from it by a traveller. In other respects he conducted himself -judiciously; for, understanding that the English, notwithstanding the -troubled state of Persia, had nowhere any thing to fear, he represented -himself as an Englishman; and thus, without passport or formal -permission, he travelled with perfect freedom and safety. He observed -during this journey a curious superstition among the Armenians, of -which he had nowhere else discovered any traces: having despatched his -servant upon some business at a distance from the encampment, he was -one day compelled to act as his own cook, and was about to cut off -the head of a fowl. His face at that moment happening to be turned -towards the west, an Armenian who was present informed him that a -Christian should turn his face to the east when he killed a fowl, no -less than when he prayed. Others (as the affair was a serious business) -conjectured that he turned towards Mecca, either that his servant, -who was a Mohammedan, might conscientiously partake of the food, or -because that in reality was his _kebleh_. Seeing, however, that people -endeavoured to decide respecting his religion by the mode in which he -slaughtered a hen, he for the future relinquished to his servant the -art and mystery of cookery. - -Our traveller had an opportunity, near Firashbend, of visiting a -Turkoman camp. He found them rich in camels, horses, asses, cows, and -sheep. Their women, like those of the Bedouins, enjoyed the most -perfect liberty, and wore no veils. These Turkoman women were said to -be exceedingly laborious, and the small carpets so universal in Persia -were of their workmanship. He likewise beheld a Kurdish family. Farther -on, he had a very laughable adventure with a troop of Armenian women, -which, as characteristic at once of the Armenians and of himself, -merits some attention. Having travelled for some time through rain and -hail, the kafilah at length halted, near the village of _Romshun_, in -which Niebuhr hired a horse for a day, and purchased a quantity of -wood, in the hope of enjoying a good fire until bedtime. Not desiring, -however, to taste of these blessings alone, he invited several -Armenians to share the advantage of his apartments, which they most -readily accepted. Presently, however, a number of women and children -presented themselves for admission, and appeared extremely well -satisfied when he granted them permission to place themselves inside -of the door. He had shortly afterward occasion to leave the house for -a moment. Upon his return, he found the husbands of the women seated -near the entrance of the house, while the whole harem had established -itself round the fire! and conceiving that it might be imprudent to sit -down by the fire among the women, or to drive them away from it, he -allowed them, though certainly not from politeness, to dry themselves -first. Here he was detained for twenty-four hours by bad weather. -The apartments which he occupied were on the second story, and his -horse, which had its quarters in the adjoining chamber, being somewhat -restless in the night, broke through the floor, and fell down into the -landlord’s apartment below! - -The kafilah reached Shiraz on the 4th of March. Here he was hospitably -received and entertained by the only European in the city, a young -English merchant, whose name he should have been at the pains to -learn, for assuredly it was not, as he imagined, _Mr. Hercules_. -His stay at Shiraz was rendered agreeable by the politeness of the -governor, who, at his first audience, informed him that he would -decapitate the first person who should offer him any injury in his -territories. The audience being over, one of the governor’s friends -undertook to show them the palace. Several of the apartments were -coated with beautiful Tabriz marble, and covered with magnificent -carpets; and among the ornaments of the palace were numerous European -mirrors, and pictures of Persian workmanship, among which was one -representing a woman bathing, almost wholly naked. Niebuhr was greatly -surprised to find pictures of this kind in the house of a Mohammedan; -but, in fact, the _Shiahs_ are far less rigid on this point than the -_Soonnees_; and we learn from the Arabian Nights, that even so early -as the time of Haroon al Rashid painting was encouraged in Persia and -Mesopotamia, since that celebrated prince is said to have adorned his -palace with the performances of the principal Persian artists. - -From Shiraz he proceeded to the ruins of Persepolis, the site and -nature of which I have already had occasion to describe in the lives of -Chardin and Kæmpfer. His head-quarters during his stay was at the small -village of Merdast. From thence, as well as from the other villages, -the peasants frequently came to observe him during his examination of -the ruins, in which he constantly employed the whole day, from eight -o’clock in the morning until five in the afternoon. The majority of -these visiters were women and young girls, who were curious to see a -European; and the whole of the population were so entirely harmless, -that the traveller felt himself as safe in their company as he could -have been in any village in Europe. He here received a visit from an -Arab sheïkh, a learned, polished, and agreeable man, who had passed -thirty years in Persia, during which time he had amassed considerable -wealth, and now lived in independence and ease. - -From Persepolis he returned by the way of Shiraz to Abusheher, where -he embarked in one of the country vessels for the island of Karak, -where he was hospitably received and entertained by the Dutch merchants -settled there; and after a short stay, proceeded to Bassorah. Here he -embarked in a small vessel which was about to sail up the Euphrates -to Hillah. His companion, during this voyage, was an officer of the -janizary corps, who lay in a small chamber close to Niebuhr’s cabin, -and appeared to be at the point of death. In other respects this little -voyage, which occupied twenty-one days, was sufficiently agreeable. -The passengers were remarkable for their good-humour and obliging -disposition; and often, when our traveller set up his quadrant on the -banks of the stream, they stood round him in a circle, while he was -making his observations, to screen him from the wind with their long -flowing dresses. - -At Rumahia, a small village on the Euphrates, he lodged with two of his -Mohammedan companions at the house of a Soonnee, who happened to be the -_moollah_ of a mosque. Soon after their arrival, our traveller entered -into conversation with his host, and their discourse turning on the -subject of marriage, he observed, among other things, that in Europe -a man, when he gives his daughter to any one in wedlock, is generally -accustomed to add a considerable sum of money. This custom greatly -delighted the moollah. “Do you hear,” says he to his mother-in-law, -who was sitting near him, while the daughter was preparing their -_pilau_,--“do you hear what the stranger is saying? It was not thus -that you acted towards me, my mother; I was compelled to pay you a sum -of money before you would give me your daughter!” The mother-in-law, -after patiently hearing him to the end, replied, “Ah! my son, upon -what should I and my daughter have subsisted, had I given thee my -field and my date-trees?” This slight interruption in the conversation -having ceased, Niebuhr, resuming the thread of the discourse, remarked, -that in Europe no man could possess more than one wife, under pain of -death; that married persons enjoyed every thing in common; and that -their property descended to their children. It was now the old lady’s -turn to be eloquent. “Well, my son,” says she, “have you marked what -the gentleman has just related? Ah! what justice prevails in those -countries! Ah! had you no other wife than my daughter, and could I be -sure you would never divorce her, how willingly would I relinquish to -you my house, and all I possess!” The young woman, who had hitherto -seemed to pay no attention to what was said, now likewise joined in the -discussion. “Alas! my husband!” said she, “how can you desire that my -mother should give you her house? You would soon bestow it upon your -other wives. You love them better than me. I see you so seldom!” - -The mother and daughter proceeded in this style for some time, and at -length Niebuhr, turning to the moollah, demanded how many wives he -had.--“Four,” replied the man. This was the highest number permitted -by the law. He had, therefore, indulged his affections to the utmost; -and as each of his spouses had a separate house and garden, he flitted -at pleasure from wife to wife, and was everywhere received as a man -returning home from a long journey. Our traveller inquired of this -zealous polygamist whether his private happiness had been increased -or diminished by his having availed himself of the privilege of a -Mohammedan; but, because his reply was contrary to his own European -views, as that of every other Mussulman, whom he had questioned on the -subject, had been, he absurdly accused him of insincerity. - -From this place he proceeded to _Meshed Ali_, where he was deterred -from entering the mosque, by the fear that he might, as a punishment -for his presumption, be compelled to profess Mohammedanism; but he -admired the exterior of its gilded dome, which glittered like a globe -of flame in the sun. The riches of this mosque, allowing much for the -exaggeration of the _Shiahs_, must still be immense. The interior of -the dome is no less superbly gilt than the exterior, and is adorned -with Arabic inscriptions in rich enamel; other inscriptions, in letters -of gold, glitter along the walls; while enormous candelabra, in silver -and fine gold, set with jewels, support the tapers which afford light -to the pious during the darkness of the night. This accumulation of -gorgeous ornaments, though supplied from a commendable motive, affects -the worshippers injuriously, and once occasioned a pious Arab to -exclaim, “Verily, the treasures lavished upon this tomb have made me -forget God!” - -Niebuhr next visited the ruins of Kufa, and Meshed Hussein, and then -returned to Hillah, near which are found the misshapen ruins of -Babylon. We must not, as he justly observes, expect to find among the -remains of this city any thing resembling the sublime magnificence -which cast a halo over the ruins of Persian and Egyptian cities. -Babylon, like modern London, was a city of bricks, prodigious in -extent, mighty in appearance, but calculated, from the nature of its -materials, to give way, when war or time laid its giant hands upon -its towers. Its very site is now become an enigma, “a place for the -bittern, and pools of water.” Modern travellers, however, have since -visited this celebrated spot, and described it so frequently, that it -is unnecessary to pause and repeat what they have written, particularly -as no two agree upon any one point. - -His stay at Babylon was brief, and on the 5th of January, 1766, he left -it to proceed towards Bagdad, where he remained until the 3d of March, -awaiting the departure of a caravan for Syria. At length, finding no -better companions, he departed with a kafilah composed wholly of Jews, -from one of whom, who had travelled much in the country, he expected -to derive considerable information. He still possessed the sultan’s -firman, which he had procured at Constantinople, and had likewise -provided himself with a passport from the Pasha of Bagdad. He therefore -anticipated no interruption on the way. In proceeding from Bagdad to -Mousul, he traversed the plain on which the great battle of Arbela, -which reduced Persia to a Macedonian province, was gained by Alexander. -Ruin and desolation have since that day been busily at work in these -countries. Among the vagabonds who now roam over or vegetate upon these -renowned scenes, are a strange people, accused by many writers of -worshipping the devil; I mean the _Yezeedis_, who, though suspected by -Niebuhr of being an offshoot from the Beyazi sect of Oman, appear to -be rather the descendants of the ancient Manichæans, or a remnant of -the Hindoo population, worshippers of _Siva_, hurled into this obscure -haunt by the storms of war. - -At Mousul, where he found numerous Catholic and Nestorian Christians, -he was received with extreme scorn, because his worthy coreligionists -learned that he did not fast during Lent. However, by allowing himself -to be defrauded a little by a Dominican father, a dealer in coins and -physic, he quickly regained his character, and, during the remainder of -his stay, was reputed a very good Christian. From this city he departed -with a numerous caravan, bound partly for Aleppo, partly for Mardin, -Orfah, or Armenia. The whole number of the travellers, including -a guard of fifty soldiers, and about three or four hundred Arabs, -amounted to little less than a thousand men. Yet, notwithstanding -their numbers, the slightest report of there being a horde of Kurds in -their neighbourhood threw these gallant warriors into consternation, -and, upon one particular occasion, their confusion was so extreme -that, like the honest knight of La Mancha, they mistook a flock of -sheep for an army. The robbers on this road are exceedingly expert -in their vocation; and one of the merchants of the caravan, who -had often travelled by this route, amused Niebuhr with an anecdote -illustrative of their skill, which deserves to be repeated:--He was one -night encamped, he said, on the summit of a steep hill, and for the -greater security had pitched his tent on the edge of the precipice. -He himself kept watch until midnight, at which time he was relieved -by his servant, who, as it would appear, soon fell asleep. On awaking -about daybreak he observed a robber in the tent. He had already -fastened the hook, with which he meant to perform his feat, in a bale -of merchandise; but sprang out of the tent, upon perceiving he was -discovered, still holding fast the cord of his hook. The merchant, -however, immediately detached the hook from the bale, and fastened it -in the clothes of his slumbering domestic, who, as the robber continued -tugging violently at the cord, was soon roused. The robber pulled, -the servant rolled along like a woolsack, and the master had the -satisfaction of seeing him tumble down to the bottom of the hill, that -he might in future be somewhat more careful of his master’s property. - -Niebuhr himself, whose cautious temper generally defended him from -danger, had on this journey a trifling adventure with an Arab sheïkh. -It entered into the head of this fiery young Islamite that it would -be amusing to have a frolic with a Giaour, and for this purpose he -deprived our traveller of his bed and counterpanes. Niebuhr complained -to the caravan bashi, but could only get a portion of his property -restored. Next day, therefore, he applied to the sheïkh himself, -who, instead of returning the articles, only jested with him upon -his uncharitable disposition, which would not allow him to share his -luxuries, even for a few days, with a true believer, who was willing -to be condescending enough to sleep on the bed of an infidel. Our -traveller, hoping to terrify the Arab, now produced the sultan’s -firman, and the Pasha of Bagdad’s passport; but this only rendered -matters worse. “Here in the desert,” said the sheïkh, “_I_ am thy -sultan and thy pasha. Thy papers have no authority with me!” Some days -afterward, however, the Arab returned him his effects, from fear, -according to Niebuhr, of the Governor of Mardin; but more probably -because he had never intended to retain them. - -From this point of his travels he proceeded by way of Mardin, Diarbekr, -and Orfah, to Aleppo, where he arrived on the 6th of June. Here he -remained some time, during which he acquired the friendship of the -celebrated Dr. Patrick Russel, from whom he received much information -respecting the Kurds and Turkomans, whose principal chiefs frequently -visited our distinguished countryman at his house. His inquiries -likewise extended to the Nassaireah and Ismaeleah, who, from the -accounts of the Mohammedans and oriental Christians, would appear to -have preserved among them the rites and ceremonies of the ancient -worshippers of Venus. Nocturnal orgies, in which every man chose his -mistress in the dark, and the adoration of the Yoni, in a young woman -who exposed herself naked for the purpose of receiving this extravagant -reverence, were likewise attributed to them; but, as Niebuhr observes, -there is nothing too absurd or abominable to be related by the orthodox -and dominant party of a persecuted heretical sect. He, in fact, found -that the Roman Catholics everywhere in the East represented their -Protestant brethren as persons who lived without hope and without God -in the world; while we, on the other hand, look upon them as idolaters, -as far removed as the pagans of old from the pure religion of Christ. - -After the death of his companions, Niebuhr had applied to the Danish -government for permission to extend his journey in the East, and, -through the benevolence of Count Bernstorf, his wishes had been readily -complied with. He therefore passed from Syria into Cyprus, for the -purpose of copying certain Phenician inscriptions at Cittium, the -birth-place of Zeno, which had, it was suspected, been incorrectly -copied by Pococke. Finding no inscriptions of the kind on the spot to -which he had been directed, he, with an illiberality which was not -common with him, imputed to Pococke the gross absurdity of having -confounded Armenian with Phenician characters; but, as his recent -biographer remarks, it is more probable that the stones had, in the -interval, been removed. - -From Cyprus he passed over into Palestine, visited Jerusalem, Sidon, -Mount Lebanon, and Damascus, and then returned to Aleppo. Here he -continued until the 20th of November, 1766, when he set out with a -caravan for Brusa, in Asia Minor; and in traversing the table-land -of Mount Taurus, suffered, says one of his biographers, as much from -frosts, piercing winds, and snow-drifts, as he could have done in a -winter journey in northern regions. Lofty mountains are everywhere -cold. Chardin nearly perished among the snows of Mount Caucasus; Don -Ulloa suffered severely from the same cause in the Andes, almost -directly under the equator; and the lofty range of the Himalaya, which -divides Hindostan from Tibet, is so excessively cold, that Baber Khan, -though a soldier and a Tartar, beheld with terror the obstacle which -these mountains presented to his ambition; and their summits have -hitherto been protected by cold from human intrusion. Upon reaching -Brusa, however, he reposed himself for some time, and then set out for -Constantinople, where he arrived on the 20th of February, 1767. - -Here he remained three or four months, studying the institutions of -the empire, civil and military. He then directed his course through -Roumelia, Bulgaria, Wallachia, and Moldavia, towards Poland, and on -arriving at Warsaw was received with extraordinary politeness by King -Stanislaus Poniatowsky, with whom he afterward corresponded for many -years. From Warsaw he continued his journey towards Copenhagen, and -visited on the way Göttingen and his beloved native place, when the -death of his mother’s brother, during his absence, had left him in -possession of a considerable marsh-farm. He arrived at Copenhagen in -November, and was received in the most flattering manner by the court, -the ministers, and men of science. - -Niebuhr now employed himself in preparing his various works for -publication. The “Description of Arabia” was published in 1772, and -although it must unquestionably be regarded as one of the most exact -and copious works of the kind ever composed on any Asiatic country, -it met with but a cold reception from the public. This, however, is -not at all surprising. Written in the old style of books of travels, -which appear to have aimed at imparting instruction without at all -interesting the imagination, it can never be relished by the generality -of readers, who at all times, and especially in these latter ages, have -required to be cheated into knowledge by the secret but irresistible -charms of composition. Niebuhr, unfortunately, possessed in a very -limited degree the art of an author. His style has nothing of that -life and vivacity which compensates, in many writers, for the want of -method. But those who neglect his works on these accounts are to be -pitied; for they abound with information, and everywhere exhibit marks -of a remarkable power of penetrating into the character and motives -of men, and a noble, manly benevolence, which generally inclines to a -favourable, but just interpretation. He understood the Arabs better -than almost any other traveller, and his opinion of them upon the -whole was remarkably favourable. It is to him, therefore, that in an -attempt to appreciate the character of this extraordinary people, I -would resort, in preference even to Volney, who, whatever might be -the perspicuity of his mind, had far fewer data whereon to found his -conclusions. - -In 1773 he married, and his wife bore him two children, a daughter -and B. G. Niebuhr, the author of the “Roman History.” Next year the -first volume of his “Travels” appeared, and was received by the public -no less coldly than the “Description of Arabia;” which was, perhaps, -the cause why the second volume was not published until 1778; and why -the third, which would have completed his “Travels’” history, was -never laid before the world, or even prepared for publication. This is -exceedingly to be regretted, as, whatever may be the defects of Niebuhr -as an author, which it appeared to be my duty to explain, he was, as an -observer, highly distinguished for sagacity; and his account of Asia -Minor would have been still valuable, notwithstanding all that has -since been written on that country. - -He continued to live at Copenhagen for ten years; but at length the -retirement of Count Bernstorf from the ministry, and a report that -General Huth designed to despatch him into Norway for the purpose -of making a geographical survey of that country, disgusted him with -the capital. He therefore demanded of the government permission to -exchange his military for a civil appointment, and accordingly obtained -the situation of secretary of the district of Meldorf, whither he -removed his family in the year 1778. This town afforded Niebuhr few -opportunities of entering into society. He consequently endeavoured to -extract from solitude and from study the pleasures which he could not -take in the company of mankind, and addicted himself to gardening and -books. When his children had reached an age to require instruction, he -undertook to conduct their education himself. “He instructed us,” says -his son, “in geography, and related to us many passages of history. -He taught me English and French--better, at any rate, than they would -have been taught by anybody else in such a place; and something of -mathematics, in which he would have proceeded much further, had not -want of zeal and desire in me unfortunately destroyed all his pleasure -in the occupation. One thing, indeed, was characteristic of his whole -system of teaching: as he had no idea how anybody could have knowledge -of any kind placed before him, and not seize it with the greatest -avidity, and hold to it with the steadiest perseverance, he became -disinclined to teach whenever we appeared inattentive or reluctant -to learn. As the first instruction I received in Latin, before I had -the good fortune to become a scholar of the learned and excellent -Jäger, was very defective, he helped me, and read with me “Cæsar’s -Commentaries.” Here again, the peculiar bent of his mind showed itself: -he always called my attention much more strongly to the geography than -the history. The map of Ancient Gaul by D’Anville, for whom he had -the greatest reverence, always lay before us. I was obliged to look -out every place as it occurred, and to tell its exact situation. His -instruction had no pretensions to be grammatical; his knowledge of the -language, so far as it went, was gained entirely by reading, and by -looking at it as a whole. He was of opinion that a man did not deserve -to learn what he had not principally worked out for himself; and that -a teacher should be only a helper to assist the pupil out of otherwise -inexplicable difficulties. From these causes his attempts to teach me -Arabic, when he had already lost that facility in speaking it without -which it is impossible to dispense with grammatical instruction, to his -disappointment and my shame, did not succeed. When I afterward taught -it myself, and sent him translations from it, he was greatly delighted. - -“I have the most lively recollection of many descriptions of the -structure of the universe, and accounts of eastern countries, which he -used to tell me instead of fairy tales, when he took me on his knee -before I went to bed. The history of Mohammed; of the first califs, -particularly of Omar and Ali, for whom he had the deepest veneration; -of the conquests and spread of Islamism; of the virtues of the heroes -of the new faith, and of the Turkish converts, were imprinted on my -childish imagination in the liveliest colours. Historical works on -these same subjects were nearly the first books that fell into my hands. - -“I recollect, too, that on the Christmas-eve of my tenth year, by -way of making the day one of peculiar solemnity and rejoicing to me, -he went to a beautiful chest containing his manuscripts, which was -regarded by us children, and indeed by the whole household, as a kind -of ark of the covenant; took out the papers relating to Africa, and -read to me from them. He had taught me to draw maps, and with his -encouragement and assistance I soon produced maps of Habbesh and Soudan. - -“I could not make him a more welcome birthday present than a sketch of -the geography of eastern countries, or translations from voyages and -travels, executed as might be expected from a child. He had originally -no stronger desire than that I might be his successor as a traveller -in the East. But the influence of a very tender and anxious mother -upon my physical training and constitution, thwarted his plan, almost -as soon as it was formed. In consequence of her opposition, my father -afterward gave up all thoughts of it. - -“The distinguished kindness he had experienced from the English, -and the services which he had been able to render to the East India -Company, by throwing light upon the higher part of the Red Sea, led -him to entertain the idea of sending me, as soon as I was old enough, -to India. With this scheme, which, plausible as it was, he was -afterward as glad to see frustrated as I was myself, many things, in -the education he gave me, was intimately connected. He taught me, by -preference, out of English books, and put English works, of all sorts, -into my hands. At a very early age he gave me a regular supply of -English newspapers: circumstances which I record here, not on account -of the powerful influence they have had on my maturer life, but as -indications of his character.” - -In the winter of 1788 he received from Herder a copy of his -“Persepolis,” which afforded him one proof that he was not forgotten -by his countrymen. He took a deep interest in the war which was then -raging against Turkey; for, in proportion to his love for the Arabs, -was his hatred of the Turks, whom he cordially desired to see expelled -from Europe. The French expedition to Egypt, however, was no object -of gratification to him; for his dislike of the French was as strong -as his dislike of the Turks, convinced that their absurd vanity and -want of faith would infallibly neutralize the good effects even of the -revolution itself. I am sorry to discover that, among other prejudices, -he was led, partly, perhaps, from vanity, to accuse Bruce of having -copied his astronomical observations; of having fabricated his -conversation with Ali Bey; as well as, to borrow the strange language -of his recent English biographer, “the pretended _journey over the -Red Sea_, in _the country of Bab el Mandeb_, as well as that on the -coast south from Cosseir.” The same writer informs us that “Niebuhr -read Bruce’s work _without prejudice_, and the conclusion he arrived -at was the same which is, since the second Edinburgh edition, and -the publication of Salt’s two journeys, _the universal and ultimate -one_.” During the composition of these Lives, I have almost constantly -avoided every temptation to engage in controversy with any man; I -hope, likewise, that I have escaped from another, and still stronger -temptation, to exalt my own countrymen at the expense of foreigners; -but I cannot regard it as my duty, on the present occasion, to permit -to pass unnoticed what appears to me a mere ebullition of envy in -Niebuhr, and of weakness and want of reflection in his biographer. -What is meant by a “_journey over the Red Sea?_” And where does Bruce -pretend to have travelled in the “_country_ of _Bab el Mandeb?_” These -Arabic words are, I believe, by oriental scholars acknowledged to -signify the “Gate of Tears,” and were anciently applied to what is -commonly called the “Strait of Bab el Mandel,” from the belief that -those who issued through that strait into the ocean could never return. -The biographer seems to misunderstand the state of the question. Bruce -has often been charged with never having sailed down the Red Sea so far -as the strait, notwithstanding his assertions in the affirmative. But -who are his accusers? Lord Valentia, Salt, and others of that stamp; -men who never dared to venture their beards amid the dangers which -Bruce encountered intrepidly. With respect to the coast from Cosseir -southward, what, I will venture to inquire, could Niebuhr have known -about the matter? Had he ever set his foot upon it? Had he even beheld -it from a distance? If he relied, as in fact he did, upon the testimony -of others, who were they? what were their opportunities? and what their -claims to be believed? I am far from insinuating that Lord Valentia -and Mr. Salt have entered into a conspiracy to wound the memory of -Bruce; but, to adopt the language of an old orator, I would ask these -gentlemen if they themselves could have been guilty of the impudent -mendacity which they impute to Bruce? If, as there can be no doubt on -the subject, Lord Valentia and Mr. Salt would spurn the imputation, is -it to be for a moment believed that the discoverer of the sources of -the Nile, the honourable, the fearless, the brave Bruce, could have -condescended to do what these individuals, who, compared with him, are -insignificant and obscure, would, by their own confession, have shrunk -from perpetrating? But my unwillingness to speak harshly of Niebuhr, -whose name ranks with me among those of the most honest and useful of -travellers, forbids me to carry this discussion any further. I honour -him for his knowledge, for his integrity, for his high sense of honour; -but, for this very reason, I vehemently condemn his unjust attack upon -the memory of our illustrious traveller. The opinion of his recent -biographer, an able and, I make no doubt, a conscientious man, appears -evidently to have arisen from an imperfect knowledge of the subject, -and is therefore the less entitled to consideration. - -The account given by his distinguished son of the latter days of -this meritorious traveller is worthy of finding a place here. “His -appearance,” says he, “was calculated to leave a delightful picture in -the mind. All his features, as well as his extinguished eyes, wore the -expression of the extreme and exhausted old age of an extraordinarily -robust nature. It was impossible to behold a more venerable sight. -So venerable was it, that a Cossack who entered an unbidden guest -into the chamber where he sat with his silver locks uncovered, was so -struck with it, that he manifested the greatest reverence for him, and -a sincere and cordial interest for the whole household. His sweetness -of temper was unalterable, though he often expressed his desire to go -to his final home, since all which he had desired to live for had been -accomplished. - -“A numerous, and as yet unbroken, family circle was assembled around -him; and every day in which he was not assailed by some peculiar -indisposition he conversed with cheerfulness and cordial enjoyment on -the happy change which had taken place in public affairs. We found it -very delightful to engage in continued recitals of his travels, which -he now related with peculiar fulness and vivacity. In this manner he -once spoke much and in great detail of Persepolis, and described the -walls on which he had found the inscriptions and bas-reliefs, exactly -as one would describe those of a building visited within a few days and -familiarly known. We could not conceal our astonishment. He replied, -that as he lay in bed, all visible objects shut out, the pictures of -what he had beheld in the East continually floated before his mind’s -eye, so that it was no wonder he could speak of them as if he had seen -them yesterday. With like vividness was the deep intense sky of Asia, -with its brilliant and twinkling host of stars, which he had so often -gazed at by night, or its lofty vault of blue by day, reflected in the -hours of stillness and darkness on his inmost soul; and this was his -greatest enjoyment. In the beginning of winter he had another bleeding -at the nose, so violent that the bystanders expected his death; but -this also he withstood. - -“About the end of April, 1815, the long obstruction in his chest grew -much worse; but his friendly physician alleviated the symptoms, which -to those around him appeared rather painful than dangerous. Towards -evening on the 26th of April, 1815, he was read to as usual, and asked -questions which showed perfect apprehension and intelligence; he then -sunk into a slumber, and departed without a struggle.” - -Niebuhr had attained his eighty-second year. He was a man rather -below than above the middle size, but robust in make, and exceedingly -oriental in air and gestures. As might be clearly enough inferred -from his works, he was no lover of poetry; for, though he is said to -have admired Homer in the German translation of Voss, together with -the Herman and Dorothea of Goëthe, this might be accounted for upon -a different principle. His imagination, however, was liable to be -sometimes excited in a very peculiar way. “It is extraordinary,” says -his son, “that this man, so remarkably devoid of imagination, so exempt -from illusion, waked us on the night in which his brother died, though -he was at such a distance that he knew not even of his illness, and -told us that his brother was dead. What had appeared to him, waking or -dreaming, he never told us.” - - - - -MARIE GABRIEL AUGUSTE FLORENT, LE COMTE DE CHOISEUL-GOUFFIER. - -Born 1752.--Died 1817. - - -I have frequently regretted, during the composition of these Lives, -that the materials for the early biography of many celebrated men -should be so scanty and incomplete as I have found them. It seems -to be considered sufficient if we can obtain some general notion -respecting their literary career, and, in consequence, criticism too -frequently usurps the place of anecdote and narrative. The Comte de -Choiseul-Gouffier occupied, however, too prominent a place among his -contemporaries, both from his rank and talents, to allow any portion -of his life to pass unnoticed; though it were to be wished that those -who have spoken of him had been less eloquent and more circumstantial. -The style of mortuary panegyric seems less designed, indeed, to make -known the qualities or adventures of the deceased than to afford the -orator an apology for casting over his memory a veil of fine language, -which as effectually conceals from the observer the real nature of -the subject as his stiff sombre pall conceals his hearse and coffin. -Such, notwithstanding, are the only sources, besides his own works, -from which a knowledge of this celebrated and able traveller is to be -derived. - -Choiseul-Gouffier was born at Paris in 1752. His family was scarcely -less ancient or illustrious than that of the kings of France, in every -page of whose history, says M. Dacier, we find traces of its importance -and splendour. He pursued his youthful studies at the College -D’Harcourt. Like Swift, and many other literary men who have acquired -a high reputation in after-life, Choiseul did not render himself -remarkable for a rapid progress or precocious abilities at school. -He was attentive to his studies, however; and while he exhibited a -decided taste for literature, his passion for the fine arts was no less -powerful. At this period, says M. Dacier, a great name and a large -fortune had frequently no other effect than to inspire their owners -with the love of dissipation and frivolous amusement, which they were -aware could in no degree obstruct their career in the road to honour -and office, which, however worthless might be their characters, was -opened to them by their birth. From this general contagion Choiseul was -happily protected by his studious habits. Every moment which he could -with propriety snatch from the duties of his station was devoted to -literature and the arts of design. Above all things, he admired with -enthusiasm whatever had any relation to ancient Greece,--a country -which, from his earliest boyhood, he passionately desired to behold, as -the cradle of poetry, of the arts, and of freedom, rich in historical -glory, and rendered illustrious by every form of genius which can -ennoble human nature. - -Being in possession of a fortune which placed within his reach -the gratification of these ardent wishes, he nevertheless did not -immediately commence his travels. In defiance of the fashion of the -times, which proscribed as unphilosophical the honest feelings of the -heart, Choiseul seems to have fallen early in love, and at the age -of nineteen was married to the heiress of the Gouffier family, whose -name he ever afterward associated with his own. Like all other persons -of noble birth, he as a matter of course adopted the profession of -arms, and was at once complimented with the rank of colonel, which it -was customary to bestow upon such persons on their entrance into the -service. - -At length, after a protracted delay, which considering his years is not -to be regretted, Choiseul-Gouffier departed for Greece in the month -of March, 1776. Having enjoyed the advantages of the conversation -and instruction of Barthélemy, who had himself profoundly studied -Greece in her literary monuments, Choiseul-Gouffier was, perhaps, as -well prepared to exercise the duties of a classical traveller as any -young man of twenty-five could be expected to be. In aid of his own -exertions he took along with him several artists and literary men, of -whom some were distinguished for their taste or natural abilities. -He was transported to Greece on board the _Atalante_ ship of war, -commanded by the Marquis de Chabert, himself a member of the Academy of -Sciences, and appointed by the government to construct a reduced chart -of the Mediterranean. This gentleman, who seems in some measure to have -possessed a congenial taste, engaged to transport Choiseul-Gouffier -to whatever part of Greece he might be desirous of visiting, and to -lie off the land during such time as he should choose to employ in his -excursions and researches. - -On his arrival in Greece, Choiseul-Gouffier commenced at once his -researches and his drawings. He was not a mere classical traveller; -his principal object, it is true, was, as his French biographers -assert, to study the noble remains of antiquity, the wrecks of that -splendid and imperfect civilization which had once covered the soil on -which he was now treading, with all the glory of the creative arts; -but, besides this, he had an eye for whatever was interesting in the -existing population, which, with every thinking and feeling man, he -must have regarded as by far the most august and touching ruin which -the traveller can behold in Greece. The mere undertaking of such an -enterprise presupposes an intense enthusiasm for antiquity. Poetry, -history, freedom, beauty, animate and inanimate, had separately and -collectively produced on his mind an impassioned veneration for the -Hellenic soil; and he saw with equal delight the scene of a fable and -the site of a city. - -In pursuance of the plan which he had traced out for himself previous -to leaving France, he examined with scrupulous care all the fragments -and ruins within the scope of his researches. After touching on the -southern coast of the Morea, and sketching the castle of Coron, with -various Albanian soldiers whom he met with on the shore, he proceeded -to the isles,--Milo, Siphanto, Naxia, Delos, where the wrecks of -antiquity and the grotesque costume and manners of modern times -exercised his elegant pencil and pen. Those persons who have visited -countries where the ruins of former ages eclipse, as it were, the -stunted heirs of the soil, will comprehend the difficulty of attending, -amid monuments rendered doubly sublime by decay, to the rude attempts -at architecture and the undignified circumstances which mark the -existence of a population relapsed into ignorance. To these, however, -Choiseul-Gouffier was by no means inattentive. He sketched, and it -would seem with equal complacency, the ruins of some venerable temple -and the beautiful dark-eyed girl of the Ionian Islands, plaiting her -tresses, or sporting with her fat, long-haired Angola. - -In sketching the life of this traveller, I must beware that I am not -carried away by classical recollections. Here, where - - Not a mountain rears its head unsung, - -it might, perhaps, be pleasing to a certain variety of minds to -expatiate at leisure over the immortal fields of fable, and the scenes -of actions which man is still proud to have performed; and if I abstain -from entering upon the subject, it is not from any indifference -to its charms, or that I want faith in its powers to produce, if -properly handled, the same effect upon others which it has long -exercised over me. But this is not the place to indulge in themes of -this kind. Biography rejects all pictures of such a description, and -requires narrative; and accordingly I proceed with the history of our -traveller’s labours. - -In the course of his visits to the Grecian islands he beheld the famous -Grotto of Antiparos, so eloquently described by Tournefort. Their -opinions respecting its wonderful construction did not, as might very -well be expected, agree; but if the botanist exaggerated, I think -the young antiquarian underrated its richness and grandeur, probably -from a desire to check his ardent imagination, or by an ill-timed -application of his philosophy. From thence, touching at Skyros in -his way, he proceeded to Lemnos, Mitelin, Scio, Samos, Patmos, and -Rhodes, and thence into Asia Minor. Here he commenced operations with -the ruins of Telmissus, in ancient Lycia. He sketched the sarcophagi, -the Necropolis, the tombs, theatre, and other antiquities; and -having also drawn up an account of his researches, and a description -of the existing ruins, set off through Caria towards the river -Mæander, and Ephesus, and Smyrna, and Troy. Throughout the whole of -this incomparably interesting route, the same lavish researches -were undertaken and conducted with vast expense and perseverance. -But on arriving upon the plains of Troy, his exertions, everywhere -enthusiastic, appeared to be redoubled. Choiseul-Gouffier was an -impassioned admirer of Homer. No other poet, in fact, ever possesses so -firm a hold upon the youthful mind as this ancient bard, because no one -paints so truly those boiling passions which prevail in youth, and with -which all men sympathize, until age or some other cause damps their -energy, and makes them, as Shakspeare expresses it, “babble of green -fields,” and tranquillity, and security, and civilization. - -For the admirers of Homer, our traveller’s researches in the ancient -empire of Priam must possess more than ordinary charms. Having to the -best of his ability determined the extent and limits of the Trojan -territories, he fixes the site of the city, and traces to their sources -the rivers Simois and Scamander. He then presents the reader with views -of the most remarkable spots in the neighbourhood of the city, which -are either mentioned by Homer, or referred to by celebrated writers of -later date; Mount Gargarus, the camp of the Greeks, the tombs of Ilus, -Achilles, and Patroclus. - -On his return to France he laboured assiduously at the arranging of the -rich and various materials which he had collected during his travels. -An author, and, above all, a traveller of distinguished rank, is -always secure beforehand of a flattering reception. Choiseul-Gouffier -experienced this truth. Fearful lest their compliments should come too -late, and be paid, not to his rank, but to his merit, the members of -the Académie des Belles-Lettres, in obedience, says M. Dacier, to the -public voice, elected our traveller a member of their body in the room -of Mons. Foncemagne in 1779, before the publication of the “Voyage -Pittoresque de la Grèce.” This splendid work, which was at least equal -to any thing which had been published of the kind, and in many respects -superior, was expected with impatience, and read on its appearance with -avidity. Praise, which in France is but too lavishly bestowed upon -noble authors, was now showered down in profusion upon our traveller. -He, however, deserved high commendation. The design of the work was in -itself exceedingly praiseworthy, and its execution, whether we consider -the literary portion or the embellishments, highly honourable to the -taste and talents of the author. Barthélemy, in such matters a judge -inferior to none, conceived so favourable an opinion of his accuracy, -that he in many instances appealed to his authority in his “Travels of -Anacharsis.” - -What tended still more powerfully to promote the success of the -“Voyage Pittoresque de la Grèce” than all these praises was, the -lively, elegant style in which it is composed. Although the polished -simplicity of the preceding age had already begun to give way before -laborious struggles after strength and originality, Choiseul-Gouffier -belonged rather to the old than the new school. His learning a -profession, which young men are rather apt to display than to hide, -was not very profound, I suspect, in 1782, when the first volume of -his travels appeared; and therefore the more credit is due to him for -his moderation in the use of it. But I am far from thinking, with M. -Dacier, that he purposely masked his acquirements, from the fear of -frightening away the men of the world. He was not, as I have already -observed, unmindful of the modern Greeks. Convinced that, next to the -love of God, patriotism, expressed in Scripture by the love of our -neighbour, is the best foundation of national and individual happiness, -our traveller was vehement in his exhortations to the Greeks to recover -their liberty. He even pointed out to them the means by which this was -to be effected. He appealed to the priests, as to those who exercised -the most powerful influence over the popular mind, to sanctify the -enterprise; and, by associating the spirit of religion with that of -liberty, to inspire their flocks with the zeal of martyrs by spiritual -incitements or menaces. - -In 1784 the success of the first volume of his travels threw open to -him the doors of the French Academy, where he was elected to fill up -the vacancy occasioned by the death of D’Alembert. The circumstances -attending his reception into this celebrated literary body were -particularly flattering. Never, according to the records of the times, -had there been collected together a more numerous or more brilliant -assembly. The discourse of the traveller was finely conceived, and -executed with ability. The subject was, of course, determined by usage; -it was the eulogium of his predecessor. Having, according to custom, by -which all such things are regulated, occasion to allude to the birth of -D’Alembert, he executed this delicate part of his task in a manner so -judicious and manly, that from a circumstance, in itself unfortunate -and dishonourable, he contrived to attach additional interest to -the memory of his predecessor. “And yet,” said he, “what was this -celebrated man, whom Providence had destined to extend the boundaries -of human knowledge? You understand me, gentlemen; and why should I -hesitate to express what I consider it honourable to feel? Why should -I, by a pusillanimous silence, defraud his memory of that tribute which -all noble minds are fond to pay to unfortunate virtue and genius in -obscurity? What was he?--An unhappy, parentless child, cast forth from -his cradle to perish, who owed to symptoms of approaching death and the -humanity of a public officer the advantage of being snatched from amid -that unfortunate multitude of foundlings, who are kept alive only to -remain in eternal ignorance of their name and race!” - -It was on this occasion that he received one of those compliments -which men of genius sometimes pay to each other, and which, when -deserved, are among the most cherished rewards that can be granted to -distinguished abilities. Delille, whom he had long numbered among his -friends, eagerly seized upon the opportunity which was now offered -him of expressing his admiration of his enthusiasm and taste. He -accordingly drew forth from his pocket a splendid fragment of his poem -entitled “Imagination,” which was not published until twenty years -afterward, and read it to the academy. It related to Greece, which -Choiseul-Gouffier had visited and depicted. He represents the forlorn -genius of that ancient country singling out from among the crowd of -ordinary travellers one young lover of the arts, recommending to his -notice the glory of her ancient monuments and brilliant recollections, -and promising him as his reward the academic palm in a _New Athens_. -The verses, in spite of the national vanity of comparing Paris with -Athens, and some other defects which I need not pause to point out, are -highly poetical and beautiful; and the reader will not, I think, regret -to find them here subjoined. - - Hâte toi, rends la vie à leur gloire éclipsée - Pour prix de tes travaux, dans un nouveau Lycée - Un jour je te promets la couronne des arts. - Il dit et dans le fond de leurs tombeau épars, - Des Platon, des Solon les ombres l’entendirent: - Du jeune voyageur tous les sens tressaillirent: - Aussitôt dans ces lieux, berceau des arts naissans, - Accourent à sa voix les arts reconnaissans; - Le Dessin le premier prend son crayon fidèle, - Et, tel qu’un tendre fils, lorsque la mort cruelle - D’une mère adorée a terminé le sort - A ses restes sacrés s’attache avec transport, - Demande à l’air, au temps d’épargner sa poussière - Et se plaît à tracer une image si chère; - Ainsi par l’amour même instruit dans ces beaux lieux - Le Dessin, de la Grèce enfant ingénieux, - Va chercher, va saisir, va tracer son image; - Et belle encor, malgré les injures de l’âge - Avec ses monumens, ses héros, et ses dieux, - La Grèce reparaît tout entière à nos yeux. - -Shortly after this Choiseul-Gouffier was appointed ambassador of -France to the Ottoman Porte, and, in selecting the companions of his -mission, was not unmindful of Delille. The poet, therefore, accompanied -him to Constantinople; and according to the testimony of both, many -years after their return, nothing could exceed the delight of their -residence in the East, and their visits to the spots celebrated in -Grecian story. Choiseul-Gouffier would, from all accounts, appear to -have been a man of enlarged views, friendly towards all nations, as -well as towards every art, and anxious to promote the general interests -of civilization. His agreeable manners enabled him quickly to acquire -the confidence of Halil Pasha, the Turkish grand vizier, and of Prince -Mauro Cordato, first dragoman of the Porte; and he succeeded in -inspiring both with a desire to introduce among the Turks the arts and -civilization of Europe. By his advice, engineer, artillery, and staff -officers were invited from France to Constantinople, to instruct the -Ottomans in the theory and practice of war. The impulse once given, -the grand vizier, seconded by the dragoman, who would appear to have -possessed unusual influence, repaired the fortifications in the various -strong cities of the empire, improved the system of casting cannon, and -considerably ameliorated the discipline of the Turkish army. Shortly -the public saw with surprise a fine seventy-four, constructed by Leroy, -after the most approved European method, launched from the docks of -Constantinople; and the system thus introduced has ever since been -followed in all the docks of the empire. To crown all these efforts, -our traveller prevailed on the vizier to send thirty Turkish youths to -receive their education in Paris; and had not this part of the scheme -been defeated by religious fanaticism, there is no foreseeing to how -great an extent this measure might have influenced the destinies of -Turkey. - -When war had broken out between the Porte and Russia, in spite of the -efforts of the French ambassador to prevent the rupture, he continued -to perform the part of a conciliator. It was by his intercession that -the Russian ambassador, imprisoned contrary to the law of nations in -the Seven Towers, was liberated, and placed on board a French frigate, -commanded by the Prince de Rohan, which conveyed him to Trieste. And -afterward, when Austria had determined to unite its forces with those -of Russia to attack the common enemy of Christendom, Choiseul-Gouffier -succeeded in preventing the imprisonment of its internuncio, whom he -caused to embark with all his family and suite on board two French -ships, which conveyed them to Leghorn. At the same time he effectually -protected the Russian and Austrian prisoners detained in chains at -Constantinople, and carefully caused to be distributed among them -the provisions which their governments or families conveyed to them -through his means. Several of these miserable beings he ransomed from -captivity with his own money, particularly a young Austrian officer who -had fallen into the hands of a cruel master, and who, resigned to his -unhappy condition, appeared only to grieve for the affliction which the -sad lot of their only son would cause his aged parents. His zeal for -the interests of Turkey was not less remarkable. For not only did he -in like manner protect the Turkish prisoners in Russia, but he caused -French ships to transport provisions to Constantinople and the Black -Sea, whose losses, when they incurred any, he made up out of his own -private fortune. - -In the midst of those assiduous and important cares which the policy -and critical position of the Ottoman empire required of him, he at no -time lost sight of the commerce and other interests of his country. He -moreover found leisure for the indulgence of his old classical tastes, -and once more ran over, with the Iliad in his hand, the whole of the -Troad and the other places celebrated by Homer. In addition to this, -he despatched several artists to Syria and Egypt at his own expense, -for the purpose of exploring and sketching ancient monuments, ruins, -picturesque sites, and in general whatever was worthy of occupying the -attention of the learned world. In 1791 he was appointed by the new -government ambassador to the court of London; but as his political -principles would not allow him to acknowledge the authority from which -this nomination proceeded, he still continued at Constantinople, from -whence he addressed all his despatches to the brothers of Louis XVI., -then in Germany. This correspondence was seized during the following -year by the French army in Champagne, and on the 22d of November, 1792, -a decree of arrest was passed against him. - -Not long after this event he departed from Constantinople, honoured -with distinguished marks of respect both by the sultan and the grand -vizier, and sincerely regretted by his brother ambassadors, and all the -French established in the Levant. Being unable to return to France, -he retired to Russia, where Catherine, who, as I have already had -frequent occasion to observe, was an excellent judge of men, received -him in the most flattering manner, and afforded him the most honourable -protection. Paul I., on his accession to the throne, distinguished -him by new favours, nominated him privy counsellor, director of the -academy of arts and of all the imperial libraries, and also gave him -many other solid proofs of his esteem. The favour of a madman, however, -was necessarily liable to change. The Comte de Cobentzel, with whom -Choiseul-Gouffier had lived on very intimate terms, falling into -disgrace, he was uncourtly enough to continue the connexion; which so -displeased Paul, that our traveller considered it unsafe to remain -at court, and retired. No longer seeing his old favourite about him, -the imperial lunatic commanded him to return, and upon his approach -remarked, in a friendly tone, “M. le Count, there are stormy cloudy -days in which it rains misunderstandings; we have experienced one of -these; but as we are men of understanding, we have shaken it off, and -are only upon the better footing.” - -Our traveller, who no doubt saw clearly enough the state of the -emperor’s head, and dreaded his relapse into ill-humour, very quickly -determined to return to France; where he at length arrived in 1802, -stripped of his titles and fortune, and reduced to rely upon his -literary rank for distinction. He, however, sought for no office or -employment. All his thoughts were now directed towards the completion -of his work on his beloved Greece, and during seven years he laboured -assiduously at this agreeable undertaking. Other travellers had in the -mean while visited and described the same countries; his ideas and -views were regarded as antiquated; the interest inspired by his first -volume, published twenty-seven years before, had in a great measure -ceased; and, more than all this, he himself, worn down by misfortunes, -sobered by long adversity, and somewhat unaccustomed to the art of -composition, was no longer the same _naïve_, lively author that he had -been. He now gave himself up to geographical disquisitions, learned -dissertations, and geological remarks. Homer himself, though still his -favourite, had undergone a transformation in his eyes. Losing sight of -the poet, the matchless painter of human nature, he was satisfied with -admiring him as an historian and geographer. - -Nevertheless there still remained a mixture of the old leaven in his -composition. The sight of the rose harvest near Adrianople in Thrace -reawakened all his enthusiasm, and his description of the festival -with which it closes, in which the beautiful Grecian girls perform so -elegant and classical a part, would certainly not disgrace the pages -of Theocritus or Virgil. The completion of the third volume (or -rather the 2d part of the second) seems to have been retarded, among -other causes, by the composition of several memoirs for the Academy -of Inscriptions and Belles-Lettres, on the Olympian Hippodrome, on -the origin of the Thracian Bosphorus, and on the personal existence -of Homer, which has been called in question by several critics more -learned than wise. - -Before the completion of his work, however, he was seized with an -apoplectic fit, which made his friends despair of his life. He was -advised to make trial of the waters of Aix-la-Chapelle, whither he -removed, accompanied by the Princess de Bauffremont, his second wife. -Here he died on the 22d of June, 1817. It was now feared by all those -who had properly appreciated his labours, that the concluding portion -of his work, without which the former parts would be comparatively -valueless, might never appear; but a publisher was at length found to -undertake the expensive and hazardous enterprise. He purchased from the -Princess de Bauffremont all the papers, charts, drawings, engravings, -and copper-plates of her deceased husband, and with a taste, zeal, and -industry for which the arts are indebted to him, completed the “Voyage -Pittoresque de la Grèce” in a style worthy of the commencement. The -portrait of the Comte de Choiseul, which M. Blaise, the publisher, -caused to be engraved by a distinguished French artist, is a -masterpiece of its kind; but there still remain many splendid drawings, -and several valuable maps and charts of various parts of Greece, which -may some day, perhaps, be published as a supplement, or in a second -edition, should it be called for by the public. - - - - -JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT. - -Born 1784.--Died 1817. - - -This traveller, descended from an eminent family of Basle, in -Switzerland, was born at Lausanne, in 1784. He was the eighth child of -John Rodolph Burckhardt, whose prospects in life were early blighted -by his adherence to the Austrian faction during the troubles in -Switzerland, consequent upon the French revolution. Our traveller, -led by hereditary prejudices to nourish an aversion for republican -principles, or too young and hot-headed not to confound the agents with -the cause, imbibed at a very early age a detestation for the French, -at that period regarded as the representatives of republicanism; -and, with the same spirit which induced Pietro della Valle to engage -in a crusade against the Turks, he wished to serve in the armies of -some nation at war with France. These wishes, however, were the mere -hallucinations of a boy, or an echo of the sentiments which he heard -uttered by others. His education had not been completed: his notions -were necessarily crude, and he had neither discovered nor learned from -others the paramount importance of freedom, without which even national -independence is a vain possession. - -Burckhardt’s studies were, from various causes, conducted in the manner -best calculated to create and nourish restless and adventurous habits. -Having received the first rudiments of his education in his father’s -house, he was removed to a school at Neufchatel, where he remained two -years. At the age of sixteen he was entered a student at the university -of Leipzig; from whence, after four years’ residence, he proceeded -to Göttingen, where he continued another year. He then returned to -his parents. The natural firmness and consistency of his character, -of which his countenance was strikingly expressive, still taught him -to keep alive his hatred of the French; but no continental nation had -preserved itself wholly free from the influence of this people; and -therefore, rejecting an offer which was made him by one of the petty -courts of Germany, desirous of numbering him among its diplomatic -body, he turned his thoughts towards England, which, like a separate -world, had remained inviolate from the tread of the enemy. Accordingly, -having provided himself with letters of introduction to several persons -of distinction, among which was one from Professor Blumenbach to Sir -Joseph Banks, he set out for London, where he arrived in the month of -July, 1806. - -This step was the pivot upon which the whole circle of his short -life was destined to turn. His introduction to Sir Joseph Banks, who -had long been an active member of the African Association, almost -necessarily brought him into contact with several other individuals -connected with that celebrated society; and conversations with these -persons, whose motives were at least respectable, and whose enthusiasm -was unbounded, naturally begot in Burckhardt a corresponding warmth, -and transformed him, from a Quixotic crusader against the French, into -an ardent, ambitious traveller. - -It should not be dissembled that, upon Burckhardt’s desire to -travel for the African Association being communicated to Sir Joseph -Banks and Dr. Hamilton (then acting secretary to that body), strong -representations of the dangers to be encountered in the execution -of the plan were made to the youthful aspirant after fame; but such -representations, which are a delusive kind of peace-offering placed for -form’s sake on the altar of conscience, are seldom sincerely designed -to effect their apparent purpose; and the actors in the farce would, -for the most part, experience extreme chagrin should they find their -eloquence prove successful. At all events, few men are so ignorant as -not to know that the aspect of danger wears a certain charm for youth, -which naturally associates therewith an idea of honour; and, provided -success be probable, or even possible, reckons obstacles of every kind -among the incentives to exertion. These dissuasive speeches, therefore, -from persons whose sole object in constituting themselves into a -public body was to produce a directly opposite result, were altogether -hypocritical; and Burckhardt, if he possessed half the sagacity -which seems to have entered into his character, must have distinctly -perceived this, and have despised them accordingly. - -However this may be, his offer, which was laid before the association -at the general meeting of May, 1808, was “willingly accepted;” and -he immediately commenced all those preparations which were necessary -to the proper accomplishment of his undertaking. He employed himself -diligently in the study of the Arabic language both in London and -Cambridge, as well as in the acquiring of a knowledge of several -branches of science, such as chymistry, astronomy, mineralogy, -medicine, and surgery; he likewise allowed his beard to grow, assumed -the oriental dress, “and in the intervals of his studies he exercised -himself by long journeys on foot, bare-headed, in the heat of the sun, -sleeping upon the ground, and living upon vegetables and water.” - -On the 25th of January, 1809, he received his instructions, by which -he was directed to proceed in the first instance to Syria, where, -it was supposed, he might complete his knowledge of the Arabic, and -acquire oriental habits and manners at a distance from the scene of his -researches, and where he was not likely to meet with any individuals -who might afterward recognise him at an inconvenient moment. - -Burckhardt sailed from Cowes on the 2d of March, 1809, in a -merchant-ship, proceeding to the Mediterranean, and arrived at Malta in -the middle of April. From thence, in a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, he -transmitted an account of the attempt to explore the interior of Africa -which was at that time meditated by Dr. Seetzen, a German physician, -who shortly afterward perished, not without suspicions of poison, in -Yemen; and of a recent eruption of Mount Etna, the description of which -he obtained from the letter of an English gentleman. - -During his stay at Malta he completed his equipment in the oriental -manner, and assumed the character of an Indian Mohammedan merchant, -bearing despatches from the East India Company to Mr. Barker, British -consul, and the company’s agent at Aleppo. Meanwhile he carefully -avoided all intercourse with such persons from Barbary as happened to -be in the island; and when he met parties of them in the street, as -he often did, the _salaam alaikum_, given and returned, was all that -passed between them. There was at this time a Swiss regiment in the -English service at Malta, to many of the officers of which Burckhardt -was personally known. To be recognised by these gentlemen would at once -have proved fatal to his assumed character; he therefore appeared in -public cautiously, and but seldom; but had at length the satisfaction -of finding that his disguise was so complete as to enable him to pass -unknown and unnoticed. - -Our traveller here entered into arrangements with a Greek, respecting -his passage from this island to Cyprus; but on the very morning of his -expected departure he received information that the owner of the ship -had directed the captain to proceed to Tripoly. His baggage was in -consequence transferred to another ship, said to be bound for the same -island; “but the very moment I was embarking,” says Burckhardt, “the -new captain told me that he was not quite sure whether he should touch -at Cyprus, his ship being properly bound for Acre. I had now the option -to wait at Malta, perhaps another month or two, for an opportunity for -Cyprus or the coast of Syria, or to run the chance of disembarking at -a place where there was no person whatever to whom I could apply for -advice or protection. Luckily an Arab of Acre, then at Malta, happened -to be known to Mr. Barker, jun.; in half an hour’s time a letter for -a merchant at Acre, with another in case of need for the pasha, were -procured, and I embarked and sailed the same morning, in the hope of -finding, when arrived at Acre, a passage for Tripoly (Syria), or for -Latakia. However, we were no sooner out of sight of the island, than -it was made known to me that the real destination of the ship was the -coast of Caramania, that the captain had orders to touch first at the -port of Satalia, then at that of Tarsus; and that if grain could not be -purchased at an advantageous price at either of these places, in that -case only he was to proceed to Acre. My remonstrances with the captain -would have been vain: nothing was left to me but to cultivate his good -graces and those of my fellow-travellers, as the progress of my journey -must depend greatly upon their good offices. The passengers consisted, -to my astonishment, of a rich Tripoline merchant, who owned part of -the ship, two other Tripolines, and two negro slaves. I introduced -myself among them as an Indian Mohammedan merchant, who had been from -early years in England, and was now on his way home; and I had the good -fortune to make my story credible enough to the passengers as well -as to the ship’s company. During the course of our voyage numerous -questions were put to me relative to India, its inhabitants, and its -language, which I answered as well as I could: whenever I was asked -for a specimen of the Hindoo language, I answered in the worst dialect -of the Swiss German, almost unintelligible even to a German, and -which in its guttural sounds may fairly rival the harshest utterance -of Arabic. Every evening we assembled upon deck to enjoy the cooling -sea-breeze and to smoke our pipes. While one of the sailors was amusing -his companions with story-telling, I was called upon to relate to my -companions the wonders of the farthest east; of the grand mogul, and -the riches of his court; of the widows in Hindostan burning themselves; -of the Chinese, their wall, and great porcelain tower,” &c. - -They sailed along the southern coast of Candia, saw Rhodes at a great -distance, and arrived in a few days at Satalia in Caramania. Here the -plague, it was found, was raging in the town; but this circumstance did -not prevent the Tripoline merchant from landing and disposing of his -merchandise, nor the captain from receiving him again on board. When -their business with this town was completed, they again set sail, and -after coasting for three days along the shore of Caramania, arrived -in the roads of Mersin, from whence Burckhardt and several of his -companions proceeded by land on an excursion to Tarsus. Finding here -a ship bound for the coast of Syria, our traveller left the Maltese -vessel in order to proceed by this new conveyance: “In taking leave of -the Tripoline,” says he, “I took off my sash, a sort of red cambric -shawl, of Glasgow manufacture, which he had always much admired, -thinking it to be Indian stuff, and presented it to him as a keepsake -or reward for his good services. He immediately unloosened his turban, -and twisted the shawl in its stead round his head: making me many -professions of friendship, and assuring me of his hospitality, if ever -the chance of mercantile pursuits should again engage me to visit the -Mediterranean, and perhaps Tripoly in Barbary.” - -Burckhardt reached the coast of Syria at that point where the Aasi, -the ancient Orontis, falls into the sea; and immediately prepared -to depart for Aleppo with a caravan. Having been intrusted with -several chests for the British consul at Aleppo, his baggage appeared -considerable; and he was consequently sent for by the aga, who expected -a handsome present for permitting them to pass. When questioned by this -officer respecting the contents of the chests, he replied that he was -entirely ignorant of the matter, but suspected that among other things -there was a sort of French drink, called _beer_, with various kinds of -eatables. The aga now sent an officer to examine them. A bottle of beer -having been broken in loading, “the man tasted it by putting his finger -into the liquor, and found it abominably bitter: such was his report to -the aga. As a sample of the eatables, he produced a potato which he had -taken out of one of the barrels, and that noble root excited general -laughter in the room: ‘It is well worth while,’ they said, ‘to send -such stuff to such a distance.’ The aga tasted of the raw potato, and -spitting it out again, swore at the Frank’s stomach which could bear -such food.” The mean opinion which these specimens inspired them with -for such merchandise inclined the aga to be content with the trifling -sum of ten piastres, which he probably thought more than the value of a -whole ship’s cargo of potatoes and beer. - -Upon the arrival of the caravan at Antakia, our traveller, desirous of -studying the manners of all ranks of men, took up his quarters in the -khan of the muleteers, where, from a suspicion that he was a Frank in -disguise, he was subjected to numerous indignities. The aga’s dragoman, -some wretched Frenchman or Piedmontese, being sent by his master to -discover the truth, and failing to effect his purpose by any other -means, determined, as a last resource, on pulling him by the beard, and -at the same time asked him familiarly why he had suffered such a thing -to grow? To this Burckhardt replied by striking him on the face, which -turned the laugh against the poor dragoman, and was an argument so -peculiarly Mohammedan that it seems to have convinced the bystanders of -the truth of his assertions. - -After a delay of four days he continued his journey with the caravan, -with the motley members of which he was compelled to maintain an -unceasing struggle in defence of his assumed character; a circumstance -which proves one of two things, either that the Saonees of the west -have by intercourse with Europeans been rendered more acute in -discovering impostors, than the Shiahs of Afghanistan and Northern -Persia, or that Burckhardt was hitherto somewhat unskilful in his -movements; for the reader will no doubt remember that Forster, when he -professed Mohammedanism, had much fewer suspicions to combat on his way -through Central Asia. - -On his arrival at Aleppo, he determined, in pursuance of the advice -of Mr. Barker, to put off his Mohammedan disguise, though he still -retained the Turkish dress; and with the aid of an able master, -recommenced the study of the Arabic, both literal and vulgar. He was -attacked, however, shortly after his arrival, by a strong inflammatory -fever, which lasted a fortnight; and was occasioned, as he conjectured, -by the want of sleep, of which blessing he had been deprived by the -prodigious colonies of that “friendly beast to man” which, according -to Sir Hugh Evans, “signifies love,” which had established themselves -in his garments during his stay at the khan of Antakia. When this -seasoning was over, his health appeared to be improved, and he found -the climate finer and more salubrious than he had expected. - -During his stay in this city, which was a very protracted one, -Burckhardt laboured assiduously in fitting himself for the honourable -performance of the task he had undertaken. His Arabic studies were -uninterrupted. Besides seizing eagerly on every opportunity of -improving himself by conversation with the natives, he laboured at -an attempt to transform “Robinson Crusoe” into an Arabian tale. He -moreover succeeded in making the acquaintance of several sheïkhs, and -other literary men, who honoured him occasionally with a visit; a -favour, he says, which he owed principally to Mr. Wilkins’s “Arabic -and Persian Dictionary.” The ordinary lexicons of the country being -very defective, the learned Turks were often obliged to have recourse -to Wilkins, whose learning and exactness sometimes compelled them to -exclaim, “How wonderful that a Frank should know more of our language -than our first ulmas!” - -In the month of July, 1810, Burckhardt departed from Aleppo under -the protection of an Arab sheïkh, of the Aenezy tribe, who undertook -to escort him to Palmyra, and thence through the Haurān to Damascus. -On the way they were attacked, while the sheïkh was absent at a -watering-place, by the hostile Marváli Arabs, by whom our traveller -was robbed of his watch and compass; after which he pushed on into the -desert to rejoin the chief. Contrary to the well-known faith of the -Arabs, this man transferred to another the protection of his guest, -thereby exposing him to be robbed a second time, at Palmyra, where the -bandit in authority, finding that he had no money, contented himself -with seizing upon his saddle. Returning from these ruins, he found at -Yerud a letter from the sheïkh, forbidding him to proceed towards the -Haurān, because, as the writer asserted, the invasion of the Wahabis -had rendered that portion of the country unsafe, even to himself and -his Arabs. In consequence of this fraudulent conduct of the sheïkh, -for the excuse was a fiction, he found himself necessitated to take -the road to Damascus; disappointed in part, but upon the whole well -satisfied with having beheld those magnificent ruins in the desert -which have charmed so many strangers, and with having at the same time -enjoyed so many occasions of observing the Bedouins under their own -tents, where he was everywhere received with hospitality and kindness. - -The rich and well-cultivated environs of Damascus, which all -travellers, from Mohammed to the present day, have admired, appeared to -great advantage to the eye of Burckhardt, accustomed to be sickened by -the signs of misery which surround Aleppo. “The unsettled state of the -government of Damascus,” says he, “obliged me to prolong my stay there -for upwards of six weeks. I again left it in the middle of September, -to visit Baalbec and Libanus. My route lay through Zahle, a small but -prosperous town on the western side of the valley Bekan, the ancient -Cœlosyria, and from thence to Baalbec, where I remained three days; -then to the top of the Libanus, the Cedars, and Kannobin, from whence, -following the highest summits of the mountain, I returned to Zahle by -the villages called Akoura and Afki.” - -After proceeding southward to the territory of the Druses, and Mount -Hermon, he returned to Damascus; whence, after a short stay, he made an -excursion into the Haurān, the patrimony of Abraham, which four years -before had been in part visited by Dr. Seetzen, previous to his tour -round the Dead Sea. “During a fatiguing journey of twenty-six days,” -says Burckhardt, “I explored this country as far as five days’ journey -to the south and south-east of Damascus; I went over the whole of the -Jebel Haurān, or mountain of the Druses, who have in these parts a -settlement of about twenty villages; I passed Bozra, a place mentioned -in the books of Moses, and not to be confounded with Boostra; I then -entered the desert to the south-east of it, and returned afterward to -Damascus through the rocky district on the foot of the Jebel Haurān, -called El Leja. At every step I found vestiges of ancient cities; saw -the remains of many temples, public edifices, and Greek churches; met -at Shohbe with a well-preserved amphitheatre, at other places with -numbers of still standing columns, and had opportunities of copying -many Greek inscriptions, which may serve to throw some light upon the -history of this almost forgotten corner. The inscriptions are for -the greater part of the lower empire, but some of the most elegant -ruins have their inscriptions dated from the reigns of Trajan and M. -Aurelius. The Haurān, with its adjacent districts, is the spring and -summer rendezvous of most of the Arab tribes, who inhabit in winter -time the great Syrian desert, called by them El Hammad. They approach -the cultivated lands in search of grass, water, and corn, of which last -they buy up in the Haurān their yearly provision.” - -Having to a certain extent satisfied his curiosity respecting this -obscure country, he returned by way of Homs and Hamah towards Aleppo, -where he arrived on the New-year’s day of 1811. He now meditated an -excursion into the desert towards the Euphrates, but was for some time -prevented from putting his design in execution by the troubled state -of the country, two powerful Arab tribes, the one inimical, the other -friendly to the Aleppines, having been for many months at war with each -other. Burckhardt at length succeeded, however, in placing himself -under the protection of the Sheïkh of Sukhne, and set out towards the -desert: but his own account of this journey was lost, and all that can -now be known of it is to be gathered from a letter from Mr. Barker, -the celebrated British consul at Aleppo, to whose princely hospitality -so many travellers of all nations have been indebted. “One hundred and -twenty, or one hundred and fifty miles below the ruins of Membigeh, in -the Zor,” says this gentleman, “there is a tract on the banks of the -Euphrates possessed by a tribe of very savage Arabs. Not far from them -is the village of Sukhne, at the distance of five days from Aleppo, and -of twelve hours from Palmyra, in the road which Zenobia in her flight -took to gain the Euphrates. The people of Sukhne are sedentary Arabs, -of a breed half Fellah and half Bedouin. They bring to Aleppo alkali -and ostrich feathers. It was upon one of these visits of the Sheïkh of -Sukhne to Aleppo, that Burckhardt, after some negotiation, resolved to -accept the protection of the sheïkh, who undertook, upon their arrival -at his village, to place him under the protection of a Bedouin of -sufficient influence to procure him a safe passage through the tribes -of the country which he wished to explore. Burckhardt had reason to be -satisfied both with the Sheïkh of Sukhne, and with the Arab whom he -procured as an escort, except that, in the end, the protection of the -latter proved insufficient. The consequence was, that poor Burckhardt -was stripped to the skin, and he returned to Sukhne, his body blistered -with the rays of the sun, and without having accomplished any of the -objects of his journey. It was in this excursion to the desert that -Burckhardt had so hard a struggle with an Arab lady, who took a fancy -to the only garment which the delicacy or compassion of the men had -left him.” - -After his return from this unfortunate journey, Burckhardt was delayed -for a considerable time at Aleppo by incessant rains; but at length, -on the 14th of February, he bade this city a final adieu, and hastened -once more to Damascus. He was desirous, before quitting Syria, of -performing another journey in the Haurān. This he completed, and -having transmitted to England an account of his discoveries in this -extraordinary region, he departed on the 18th of June for the Dead Sea. -The reader will not, I imagine, be displeased to find the description -of this journey given in the author’s own words: having reached -Nazareth, “I met here,” says he, “a couple of petty merchants from -Szalt, a castle in the mountains of Balka, which I had not been able -to see during my late tour, and which lies on the road I had pointed -out to myself for passing into the Egyptian deserts. I joined their -caravan; after eight hours’ march, we descended into the valley of the -Jordan, called El Gor, near Bysan; crossed the river, and continued -along its verdant banks for about ten hours, until we reached the -river Zerka, near the place where it empties itself into the Jordan. -Turning then to our left, we ascended the eastern chain, formerly part -of the district of Balka, and arrived at Szalt, two long days’ journey -from Nazareth. The inhabitants of Szalt are entirely independent of -the Turkish government; they cultivate the ground for a considerable -distance round their habitations, and part of them live the whole year -round in tents, to watch their harvests and to pasture their cattle. -Many ruined places and mountains in the district of Balka preserve -the names of the Old Testament, and elucidate the topography of the -province that fell to the share of the tribes of Gad and Reuben. Szalt -is at present the only inhabited place in the Balka, but numerous Arab -tribes pasture there their camels and sheep. I visited from thence -the ruins of Amān, or Philadelphia, five hours and a half distant -from Szalt. They are situated in a valley on both sides of a rivulet, -which empties itself into the Zerka. A large amphitheatre is the most -remarkable of these ruins, which are much decayed, and in every respect -inferior to those of Jerash. At four or five hours south-east of Amān -are the ruins of Om Erresas and El Kotif, which I could not see, -but which, according to report, are more considerable than those of -Philadelphia. The want of communication between Szalt and the southern -countries delayed my departure for upwards of a week; I found at last -a guide, and we reached Kerek in two days and a half, after having -passed the deep beds of the torrents El Wale and El Mojeb, which I -suppose to be the Nahaliel and Arnon. The Mojeb divides the district of -Balka from that of Kerek, as it formerly divided the Moabites from the -Amorites. The ruins of Eleale, Hesebon, Meon, Medaba, Dibon, Arver, all -situated on the north side of the Arnon, still subsist to illustrate -the history of the Beni Israel. To the south of the wild torrent Mojeb -I found the considerable ruins of Rabbab Moab: and, three hours’ -distance from them, the town of Kerek, situated at about twelve hours’ -distance to the east of the southern extremity of the Dead Sea.... - -“The treachery of the Sheïkh of Kerek, to whom I had been particularly -recommended by a grandee of Damascus, obliged me to stay at Kerek above -twenty days. After having annoyed me in different ways, he permitted me -to accompany him southward, as he had himself business in the mountains -of Djebal, a district which is divided from that of Kerek by the deep -bed of the torrent El Ahhsa, or El Kahary, eight hours’ distance -from Kerek. We remained for ten days in the villages to the north -and south of El Ansa, which are inhabited by Arabs, who have become -cultivators, and who sell the produce of their fields to the Bedouins. -The sheïkh, having finished his business, left me at Beszeyra, a -village about sixteen hours south of Kerek, to shift for myself, after -having maliciously recommended me to the care of a Bedouin, with whose -character he must have been acquainted, and who nearly stripped me of -the remainder of my money. I encountered here many difficulties, was -obliged to walk from one encampment to another, until I found at last -a Bedouin who engaged to carry me to Egypt. In his company I continued -southward, in the mountains of Shera, which are divided to the north -from Djebal by the broad valley called Ghoseyr, at about five hours’ -distance from Beszeyra. The chief place in Djebal is Tafyle, and in -Shera the castle of Shobak. This chain of mountains is a continuation -of the eastern Syrian chain, which begins with the Antilibanus, joins -the Jebel el Sheïkh, forms the valley of Ghor, and borders the Dead -Sea. The valley of Ghor is continued to the south of the Dead Sea; at -about sixteen hours’ distance from the extremity of the Dead Sea its -name is changed into that of Araba, and it runs in almost a straight -line, declining somewhat to the west as far as Akaba, at the extremity -of the eastern branch of the Red Sea. The existence of this valley -appears to have been unknown to ancient as well as modern geographers, -although it is a very remarkable feature in the geography of Syria -and Arabia Petræa, and is still more interesting for its productions. -In this valley the manna is still found; it drops from the sprigs of -several trees, but principally from the Gharrab. It is collected by -the Arabs, who make cakes of it, and who eat it with butter; they call -it Assal Beyrook, or the honey of Beyrook. Indigo, gum-arabic, and the -silk-tree, called Asheyr, whose fruit encloses a white silky substance, -of which the Arabs twist their matches, grow in this valley.” - -In this valley, about two long days’ journey north-east of Akaba, is a -small rivulet, near the banks of which Burckhardt discovered the ruins -of a city, which he conjectured to be those of Petra, the capital of -Arabia Petræa. No other European traveller had ever visited the spot, -though few places in Western Asia seem more curious or deserving of -examination. The red rocks composing the flanks of the valley contained -upwards of two hundred and fifty sepulchral chambers, adorned with -Grecian ornaments. Besides these there were numerous mausolea, some in -the Egyptian style, with obelisks, others in the chaste manner of the -Greeks; and among the latter there was one in perfect preservation, -and of vast dimensions, with all its apartments, its vestibule, its -peristyle, &c. cut out in the solid rock. On the summit of the mountain -which forms the western boundary of the valley is the tomb of Aaron, -which the Arabs, who are great Scriptural antiquarians, hold in -extraordinary veneration. Our traveller, however, to his great regret, -was necessitated to abandon to some more fortunate visiter the thorough -examination of this interesting region, at which circumstances allowed -him merely to cast a glance as he was hurrying along with his Bedouin -conductor towards the Red Sea. In proceeding from this place towards -Akaba he encountered a small party of Arabs who were conducting a few -camels for sale to Cairo, and uniting himself to this little caravan, -performed the remainder of the journey in their company. “We crossed -the valley of Araba,” says he, “ascended on the other side of it the -barren mountains of Beyane, and entered the desert called El Tih, -which is the most barren and horrid tract of country I have ever seen; -black flints cover the chalky or sandy ground, which in most places is -without any vegetation. The tree which produces the gum-arabic grows -in some spots; and the tamarisk is met with here and there; but the -scarcity of water forbids much extent of vegetation, and the hungry -camels are obliged to go in the evening for whole hours out of the road -in order to find some withered shrubs upon which to feed. During ten -days’ forced marches we passed only four springs or wells, of which one -only, at about eight hours east of Suez, was of sweet water. The others -were brackish and sulphureous. We passed at a short distance to the -north of Suez, and arrived at Cairo by the pilgrim road.” - -On his arrival at Cairo, Burckhardt’s first employment was to draw up a -detailed account of his journey through Arabia Petræa: he then turned -his attention to the means of fulfilling the great design of his -mission; but no opportunity of penetrating into the interior of Africa -occurring, he undertook, in order to fill up the interval thus created, -a journey into Nubia. During his residence at Cairo, and on his journey -up the Nile to Assouan, he beheld the principal ruins of Egypt. His -preparations for the Nubian excursion were soon made. He purchased two -dromedaries, one for himself and the other for his guide, for about -twenty-two pounds; provided himself with letters of recommendation, -and a firman from the pasha; and leaving his servant and baggage at -Assouan, set out with his guide on the 14th of February, 1813, carrying -along with him nothing but a gun, a sabre, a pistol, a provision-bag, -and a woollen mantle, which served by day for a carpet, and for a -covering during the night. - -Their road lay along the eastern bank of the Nile; they passed Philæ -(where, a few days before, a pregnant woman had been killed in a fray, -as the softer sex always mix in the battles in which their husbands are -engaged, which had created a deadly feud between the hostile villages); -and then pushed on with rapidity towards Derr. The Mameluke chiefs, -with their desperate followers, were at this period roaming about -Nubia, amusing their imaginations with vain projects for the recovery -of Egypt.--Every person coming from the north was of course an object -of curiosity, if not of suspicion, to these baffled soldiers, as it -was possible he might be the bearer of tidings of events upon the -results of which their fate depended. Such was the state of things when -Burckhardt entered Nubia. Everywhere reports calculated to create alarm -were circulated. To-day it was said that the Mamelukes had descended, -like famished tigers, from the mountains, and were about to deliver up -the whole country to plunder and devastation; to-morrow they appeared -to have passed away, like a thunder-cloud, towards Dongola and the -desert, leaving behind them that sort of uneasy satisfaction with which -we behold the quelling of unruly elements. - -Burckhardt arrived at Derr on the 1st of March, and, to his surprise, -found two Mameluke beys at the palace of the governor. He had -reckoned upon their utter disappearance, and had intended, under -these circumstances, to represent himself as the secret agent of -the Pasha of Egypt; but learning, upon inquiry, that the pasha and -his enemies were regarded with nearly equal dread by the Nubian -princes, he changed his resolution, and professed to be guided in his -motions by no other motive than pleasure. Ignorant persons find it -hard to conceive that men can expose themselves to difficulties and -dangers from an enthusiasm for knowledge, or can find pleasure in -encountering hardships and fatigue; however, a concurrence of fortunate -circumstances extorted from the governor a permission to proceed, and -accordingly, having provided himself with provisions for the road, our -traveller departed for Sukkot. - -His guide on the present occasion was an old Arab of the Ababde tribe. -The branch of the Ababde to which this man, whose name was Mohammed, -belonged, feed their flocks on the uninhabited banks of the river, and -on its numerous islands, as far south as Dongola. Though poor, they -refuse to bestow their daughters, who are famed for their beauty, in -marriage on the rich Nubians, and have thus preserved the purity of -their race. They are, moreover, an honest and hospitable race, and -during his journeys in Nubia, Burckhardt was constantly received and -treated with kindness by these simple people. - -In pursuing his course up the Nile, our traveller passed a day at -Ibrim, a town inhabited by Turks, where, though quarrels and bloodshed -were frequent, property was more secure than in any other town he -had visited in the eastern world; the corn was left all night in the -field, and the cattle on the banks of the river, unwatched, and even -the greater part of the household furniture remained all night under -the palm-trees around their dwellings. Indeed, theft was here quite -unknown. Proceeding a short distance to the south of this town, he -dismounted from his dromedary, and directing his guide to continue his -road to the next village, struck off into a narrow footpath along the -lofty, precipitous shores of the river. Pursuing this mountain-track -he arrived at an ancient temple hewn out of the rock, in as perfect a -state of preservation as when first finished. Sepulchral chambers and -mystic sculptures, the usual accompaniments of Egyptian temples, were -found here. - -The reception which our traveller and his guide met with at the Nubian -villages was generally hospitable; as soon as they alighted a mat was -spread for them upon the ground, just before the door of the house, -which none but intimate friends are permitted to enter; dhourra bread, -milk, and sometimes dates were placed before the strangers, and their -host, if earnestly pressed, sat down with them. Straw, when plentiful, -was likewise given to their camels; and when the host desired to be -particularly hospitable, a breakfast of hot milk and bread was served -up before their departure in the morning. - -At length, on the 6th of March, they arrived on a sandy plain, -sprinkled with rocky points, which thrust up their heads through the -sand that concealed their bases. Here they encamped in the evening near -one of the islands which are formed by the river. The noise of the -cataract was heard in the night, at about half an hour’s distance. The -place is very romantic: when the inundation subsides, many small lakes -are left among the rocks; and the banks of these, overgrown with large -tamarisks, have a picturesque appearance amid the black and green -rocks; the lakes and pools thus formed cover a space of upwards of two -miles in breadth. - -The Arabs who serve as guides through these wild districts “have -devised,” says Burckhardt, “a singular mode of extorting small presents -from the traveller: they alight at certain spots, and beg a present; -if it is refused, they collect a heap of sand, and mould it into the -form of a diminutive tomb, and then placing a stone at each of its -extremities, they apprize the traveller that his tomb is made; meaning -that henceforward there will be no security for him in this rocky -wilderness. Most persons pay a trifling contribution rather than have -their graves made before their eyes; there were, however, several tombs -of this description dispersed over the plain. Being satisfied with my -guide, I gave him one piastre, with which he was content.” - -On his arriving in the territory of Sukkot, he presented the letter to -the governor of which he was the bearer; and received from this old -savage a scrap of paper, containing an introduction to his son, who was -the chief of the southern part of the district. Here the guide, who -had been granted him at Derr, reached the extremity of his commission, -and announced his intention of returning from thence; four piastres, -however, overcame his determination, and he agreed to proceed to -Mahass: “If Hassan Kashif,” said he, “upbraids me, I shall tell him -that you rode on, notwithstanding my exhortations, and that I did not -think it honourable to leave you alone.” An admirable custom prevails -in this and every other part of Nubia: water-jars are placed under a -low roof at short distances by the roadside, where the traveller may -always quench his thirst; and every village pays a small monthly sum to -some person to fill those jars morning and evening. The same thing is -practised upon a much larger scale in Upper Egypt. - -Upon Burckhardt’s reaching the Mahass territory, he suddenly found -himself in the midst of the worst description of savages. The governor, -a ferocious black, received him in a hut, furiously intoxicated, and -surrounded by numerous followers in the same condition. In the midst -of their drunken mirth they called for their muskets, and amused -themselves with firing in the hut. Burckhardt every moment expected -that a random ball would put an end to his travels; but the palm wine -at length extended the whole of this atrocious rabble upon the ground, -and next morning, when sleep had somewhat restored the tone of the -governor’s senses, he found time to question our traveller respecting -the motives of his visit. The story which he related to them was not -believed: “You are an agent of Mohammed,” said they; “but at Mahass we -spit at Mohammed Ali’s beard, and cut off the heads of those who are -enemies to the Mamelukes.” These suspicions, although they produced no -immediate injury to his personal safety, entirely put a stop to his -progress farther south; for he was now within two days and a half of -the limits of Dongola, where the Mamelukes were lords paramount, and to -enter their territories with the character of an agent of Mohammed Ali -would be to court certain death. He therefore turned his face towards -the north, and travelled with all possible celerity along the eastern -bank of the Nile, until he arrived at Kolbe, where he swam across the -river, holding by his camel’s tail with one hand, and urging on the -beast with the other. - -Burckhardt now descended the Nile to Ipsambol, the vast rocky temple -of which he supposed to be of extremely ancient date. He here found -four colossal statues of enormous magnitude, which had been hewn -out of the rock, on the face of an elevated cliff, with their backs -adhering to the precipice. The fine sand of the desert had been blown -up into mounds against the rock, and covered two of these statues -almost entirely; the rest rose somewhat above the surface. The faces -of these colossal statues are turned towards the north. “The head, -which is above the surface,” says he, “has a most expressive youthful -countenance, approaching nearer to the Grecian model of beauty than -that of any ancient Egyptian figure I have seen; indeed, were it not -for a thin, oblong beard, it might well pass for a head of Pallas.” - -From Ipsambol he continued his journey to Mosmos and Derr, where he -parted with his guide, who, on taking his leave, begged as a present -the mellaye, or cloak, which our traveller usually wore. To this -request Burckhardt replied, “May God smooth your path!”--a phrase -usually addressed to beggars, when they are civilly told to be gone. -“No,” said the Arab, who had often employed this phrase when he desired -to elude the questions of the traveller, “for once I will beg you to -smooth it.” “So,” says Burckhardt, “I gave him the mellaye, and a small -present in money; and am confident that Abou Saad will never forget me.” - -On his return to Assouan, Burckhardt’s first care was to repair, by -repose, the inroads which fatigue had made upon his constitution. He -then repaired to Esne, where he established his head-quarters. It being -his policy to excite but little attention, he very seldom went into -company, dressed meanly, and reduced his expenditure to the lowest -possible sum. The cheapness of provisions was incredible. His whole -expenditure for himself, his servant, his dromedary, and his ass not -exceeding one shilling and sixpence per day, while his horse cost him -no more than sixteen pence per month. - -Here he remained until the 2d of March, 1814, when he joined himself, -as a petty trader, to another caravan, which was proceeding from Deraou -to Berber. The caravan, consisting of about fifty merchants, with their -slaves and beasts, moved under the protection of about thirty Ababde -Arabs, who, though no heroes or philosophers, were not remarkably -deficient either in courage or humanity. Burckhardt was a man more apt -to blame than praise. If an individual performed a generous action, -he generally evinced a disposition to attribute it to some selfish or -mean motive, probably from the opinion that it might be considered -vulgar and unphilosophical to betray a belief in disinterested virtue. -It is to be regretted, however, that he should have indulged in this -unamiable habit of thinking, as nothing more surely tends to awaken the -resentment or suspicion of the reader, who will be led to imagine that -he who constantly misrepresents the motives of men may sometimes, from -unknown causes, be tempted to misrepresent their manners and actions -also. If we do not entertain this opinion of Burckhardt, it is that we -exercise towards him a higher degree of charity than he was accustomed -to exercise towards others. - -The march of a caravan through the desert is a magnificent spectacle. -There is a kind of sublime daring in thus venturing upon what seem -to be the secret places of nature; the places whence the simoom, the -hurricane, and the locust-cloud issue forth upon their fatal errands, -and where many tremendous phenomena, peculiar to those dreary regions, -present themselves, at intervals, to the astonished but delighted eye -of the traveller. - -Burckhardt, on this occasion, possessed no command over his own -movements. He travelled, halted, ate, slept, in obedience to the -fantasy of the caravan-leaders; who were ignorant, however, that the -humble trader, whom they regarded, at most, with compassion, was at -that moment forming reflections, and bringing observations to maturity, -which were, perhaps for ages, to affect the opinion entertained by -the civilized world of their character and pursuits. Meanwhile the -merchants, who were chiefly engaged in the debasing traffic of slaves, -and, as may be supposed, cherished no respect for any thing but -riches, and the power which commands riches, looked upon their humble -companion with undisguised contempt; for imbecility and ignorance are -of themselves incapable of appreciating intellectual superiority, and -reverence it only when it is exerted for their defence or destruction. -The scorn which our traveller entertained for those miscreants was, -therefore, just. They constantly treated him with contumely, though he -professed a belief in the same law and the same prophets; plundered -his water-skins, or obstructed his filling them at the wells, thus -exposing him to the danger of perishing of thirst; circulated, in the -towns where they stopped, the report that he was a spy; and, in short, -put in practice every art which their dastardly malice and shallow -brains could conceive, in order to disgust him with the trade, and thus -free themselves from a new competitor. But they were slave-dealers: an -epithet which comprises every thing most loathsome and abominable; and -their manners entirely corresponded with their occupation, being marked -by a degree of depravity which language blushes to describe. - -At the end of a week’s journey, the caravan arrived at the celebrated -wells of El Haimar, in the vicinity of which they found the tomb of a -Mameluke chief, who died on this spot. “His companions, having enclosed -the naked corpse within low walls of loose stones, had covered it over -with a large block. The dryness of the air had preserved the corpse -in the most perfect state. Looking at it through the interstices of -the stones which enveloped it, it appeared to me a more perfect mummy -than any I had seen in Egypt. The mouth was wide open, and our guide -related that the man had died for want of water, although so near the -wells.” Next day they passed Wady Ollaky, a fine valley, extending -east and west from the Nile to the Red Sea. Here were numerous trees -and excellent pasture; advantages which caused it to be regarded with -peculiar veneration by the Bedouins; and every man, as he traversed it -on his ass or camel, took a handful of dhourra, and threw it on the -ground, as a kind of pious offering to the good genius of the Wady. - -On the following day, in crossing Wady El Towashy, or the Valley of -the Eunuch, Burckhardt saw the tomb of that Mahomet Towash whose -body was found on the sands by Bruce, three days after he had been -murdered by his guides. The principal facts in Bruce’s narrative of -this transaction Burckhardt found to be true, but he imagined that -the details of the story must have been “made up.” Nothing can be -conceived more insolent or absurd than this skepticism. Why should it -be supposed that we were to accept the testimony of this young man, -coming from a country where assuredly truth is not more respected than -it is in Britain, and who, compared with Bruce, was an unknown and an -inferior person, before that of an English gentleman, whose education -was conducted with the utmost care, and who, except as a traveller, -was never regarded, I believe, other than as a person of probity and -honour? The principle which teaches the despots of the East to respect -each other’s harems, when, by the chances of war, they fall into their -hands, as Darius’s fell into those of Alexander, should, we think, -be acted upon by travellers, who, unless upon the amplest and most -satisfactory information, should beware of tampering with the integrity -of each other’s characters. The contrary proceeding must, in the end, -be productive of a degree of skepticism which would extinguish all -enthusiasm and enterprise in travellers, who, at this rate, could -expect no better fate than to be denounced as liars by every timid -knave, who, skulking by his own fireside, might be impelled by envy -to rail at those who boldly measure sea and land, and undergo the -extremity of hardships to obtain an honourable reputation. - -Burckhardt, however, had acquired the habit of suspecting every thing, -not because he himself could have been guilty of an untruth, for he -was a high-spirited and honourable man, but because he generalized too -hastily. I readily pardon his error, therefore, and trust that his -involuntary injustice may be injurious neither to Bruce’s character, -nor to his own. His picture of what he endured in the course of this -journey is sufficient to account for any little asperity of manner -observable in his travels. “For myself,” says he, in describing what -daily occurred at their halting-places, “I was often driven from the -coolest and most comfortable birth into the burning sun, and generally -passed the midday hours in great distress; for besides the exposure to -heat, I had to cook my dinner, a service which I could never prevail -upon any of my companions, even the poorest servants, to perform for -me, though I offered to let them share my homely fare. In the evening -the same labour occurred again, when fatigued by the day’s journey, -during which I always walked for four or five hours, in order to spare -my ass, and when I was in the utmost need of repose. Hunger, however, -always prevailed over fatigue, and I was obliged to fetch and cut wood, -to light a fire, to cook, to feed the ass, and finally to make coffee, -a cup of which, presented to my Daraou companions, who were extremely -eager to obtain it, was the only means I possessed of keeping them in -tolerable good-humour. A good night’s rest, however, always repaired -my strength, and I was never in better health and spirits than during -this journey, although its fatigues were certainly very great, and much -beyond my expectation. The common dish of all the travellers at noon -was fetyre, which is flour mixed up with water into a liquid paste, and -then baked upon the sadj, or iron plate; butter is then poured over -it, or honey, or sometimes a sauce is made of butter and dried bamyé. -In the evening some lentils are boiled, or some bread is baked with -salt, either upon the sadj or in ashes, and a sauce of bamyé, or onion, -poured over lentils, or upon the bread, after it has been crumbled -into small pieces. Early in the morning every one eats a piece of dry -biscuit, with some raw onions or dates.” - -On the 14th of March, on arriving at the Wady el Nabeh, they found the -celebrated wells of that valley insufficient to supply the caravan -until they should reach the rocks of Shigre, and as no water was -anywhere to be found in the intervening space they were reduced to the -greatest perplexity. “Upon such occasions as these,” says Burckhardt, -“every man gives his opinion: and mine was, that we should kill our -thirty-five asses, which required a daily supply of at least fifteen -water-skins, that we should load the camels to the utmost of their -strength with water, and strike out a straight way through the desert -towards Berber, without touching at Shigre; in this manner we might -perform the journey in five forced marches.” This plan the Arabs -refused to follow. They repaired their water-skins and their sandals, -refreshed themselves with bathing in the cool wells, and then set out. -But “it was not without great apprehension,” says our traveller, “that -I departed from this place. Our camels and asses carried water for -three or four days only, and I saw no possibility of escaping from the -dreadful effects of a want of water. In order to keep my ass in good -spirits, I took off the two small water-skins with which I had hitherto -loaded him, and paid one of the Ababdes four dollars to carry four -small water-skins as far as Berber; for I thought that if the ass could -carry me, I might bear thirst for two days at least, but that if he -should break down, I should certainly not be able to walk one whole day -without water in this hot season of the year.” - -Notwithstanding all these difficulties and sufferings, our traveller -considered the Nubian desert, at least as far south as Shigre, far -less terrible than that of Syria or Tyh. Trees and water are much -more frequent, and though it be intersected in various directions by -shaggy barren rocks, the more desolate and awful appearance which it -acquires from this circumstance is, in a great measure, compensated for -by its consequent grandeur and variety. “Here,” says the traveller, -“during the whole day’s march, we were surrounded on all sides by lakes -of mirage, called by the Arabs Serab. Its colour was of the purest -azure, and so clear that the shadows of the mountains that bordered -the horizon were reflected on it with the greatest precision, and the -delusion of its being a sheet of water was thus rendered still more -perfect.” This mockwater, however, only served to heighten the terrors -which the scarcity of real water excited. Every man now began to attach -the greatest importance to the small stock he possessed. Burckhardt, -who possessed but two draughts of water in the world, drank the moiety -of it at once, reserving the remainder for the next day; but, observing -the general scarcity, shared the dejection of his companions. At -length, their condition having become nearly desperate, they adopted -the course recommended by the Ababde chief, and despatched ten or -twelve of their companions, mounted on as many camels, to the nearest -part of the Nile, which was not more than five or six hours distant; -but its banks being inhabited in this part by fierce hostile tribes, -nothing but the fear of instant death could have forced them upon this -step. They timed their march in such a manner that they would reach the -banks of the river by night; when they were directed to select some -uninhabited spot, and having there loaded their camels, to return with -all speed. “We passed the evening,” says Burckhardt, “in the greatest -anxiety, for if the camels should not return, we had little hopes -of escape either from thirst or from the sword of our enemies, who, -if they had once got sight of our camels, would have followed their -footsteps through the desert, and would certainly have discovered us. -Many of my companions came in the course of the evening to beg some -water of me, but I had well hidden my treasure, and answered them by -showing my empty skins. We remained the greater part of the night in -silent and sullen expectation of the result of our desperate mission. -At length, about three o’clock in the morning, we heard the distant -hallooings of our companions; and soon after refreshed ourselves with -copious draughts of the delicious water of the Nile.” - -This was the last of their sufferings on this route; on the 23d of -March they entered on a plain with a slight slope towards the river, -which was felt at more than two hours’ distance by the greater moisture -of the air. The Arabs exclaimed, “God be praised, we again smell -the Nile!” and about ten o’clock at night, the caravan entered the -village of Ankhecreh, the principal place in the district of Berber. -Burckhardt’s residence at this place was nothing but one continued -series of annoyance. The principal delight of the whole population, -among whom drunkenness and debauchery were scarcely accounted vices, -seemed to consist in deluding and plundering travellers, who on all the -envenomed soil of Africa could scarcely be exposed to more irritating -insults or extortion than on this spot. - -The caravan, now reduced to about two-thirds of its original number, -several of the merchants having returned to Egypt, while others -remained at Berber to dispose of their goods, again put itself in -motion on the 7th of April. Our traveller, who had hitherto attached -himself to the merchant portion of the party, several of whom, previous -to their leaving Egypt, had received benefits at his hands, was here -driven by abuse and contumely to take refuge among the Ababde, who not -only willingly received him as their companion, but exercised their -influence, on more than one occasion, to protect him from violence. -Pursuing a southerly direction for three days, they arrived at the town -of Damer, which, under the government of a number of religious men, -had attained a very high pitch of prosperity. Their sanctity, indeed, -was considerably aided by their skill in magic, which, as Burckhardt -was credibly informed, was so great that, on one occasion, the Faky el -Kebir, or Great Fakir, caused a lamb to bleat in the stomach of the -thief who had stolen, and afterward eaten it. There was no daily market -at Damer, nor was there any thing whatever sold publicly, except on -the weekly market-day. However, as our traveller needed a few measures -of dhourra for his ass, and found it impracticable to purchase less -than a dollar’s worth, which would have been more than he could carry, -he was under the necessity of imitating his companions, and went from -house to house with some strings of beads in his hands, offering them -for sale at about four handfuls of dhourra for each bead. “I gained at -this rate,” says he, “about sixty per cent. above the prime cost, and -had at the same time an opportunity of entering many private houses. I -repeated these walks every day during our stay. One afternoon, while -crying my beads for sale, I was accosted by a faky, who asked me if I -could read. On my answering in the affirmative, he desired me to follow -him to a place where, he said, I might expect to get a good dinner. -He then led me to a house where I found a great number of people, -collected to celebrate the memory of some relative lately deceased. -Several fakies were reading the Koran in a low tone of voice. A great -faky afterward came in, whose arrival was the signal for reciting the -Koran in loud songs, in the manner customary in the East, in which I -joined them. This was continued for about half an hour, until dinner -was brought in, which was very plentiful, as a cow had been killed -upon the occasion. After a hearty meal, we recommenced our reading. -One of the sheïkhs produced a basketful of white pebbles, over which -several prayers were read. These pebbles were destined to be strewed -over the tomb of the deceased in the manner which I had often observed -upon tombs freshly made. Upon my inquiries respecting this custom, -which I confessed to have never before seen practised in any Mohammedan -country, the faky answered that it was a mere meritorious action: that -there was no absolute necessity for it; but that it was thought that -the soul of the deceased, when hereafter visiting the tomb, might be -glad to find these pebbles, in order to use them as beads in addressing -its prayers to the Creator. When the reading was over, the women began -to sing and howl. I then left the room, and on taking my departure my -kind host put some bones of roasted meat in my hand to serve for my -supper.” - -In proceeding from this place to Shendy the caravan was accompanied by -several fakies, whose presence was found to be a sufficient protection -against the Nubian Bedouins. They reached Shendy on the 17th of April, -and this being, next to Sennaar and Kobbe, the largest town in eastern -Soudan, they remained here a whole month, during which time Burckhardt -enjoyed an ample opportunity of collecting materials for an account -of this and the neighbouring countries. Crocodiles are numerous in -this part of the Nile. They are much dreaded by the inhabitants, who, -when repairing to its banks for water or to wash their linen, are in -constant fear of these creatures. Burckhardt ate of the crocodile’s -flesh, which he found of a dirty white colour, not unlike young veal, -with a slight fishy smell. To bring its flesh into fashion as an -article of food would be the most certain way of rendering it rare. - -At this place Burckhardt abandoned all idea of proceeding farther -south, and, in order to procure himself some little civility from his -former companions, circulated the report that he intended to return -directly to Egypt, where, by describing to the pasha their conduct -towards him during the journey, he might do them considerable injury. -This stratagem succeeded. Their civility and affected friendship now -surpassed their former insolence. In the mean while, understanding that -a caravan was about to set out for Suakin on the Red Sea, our traveller -prevailed on the Ababde chief to introduce and recommend him as his -own friend to its leader. Here he disposed of his merchandise, and -purchased a slave-boy to attend upon him on the road; and having laid -in the necessary quantity of provisions, joined the Suakin caravan, and -departed from Shendy on the 17th of May. “After all my accounts were -settled,” says he, “I had four dollars left; but the smallness of the -sum occasioned me no uneasiness, for I calculated on selling my camel -on the coast for as much as would defray the expenses of my voyage to -Jidda, and I had a letter of credit on that place for a considerable -sum, which I had procured at Cairo.” - -The road now traversed by the caravan crossed the Atbara, the Astaboras -of the ancients, on the banks of which they found numerous groves of -trees, and the most luxuriant vegetation. At the sight of this, the -imagination even of the slave-dealers was touched with enthusiasm; -and in alluding to the dreary track over which they had travelled, -one of them exclaimed, “After death comes paradise!” “There was a -greater variety of natural vegetation here than I had seen anywhere -on the banks of the Nile in Egypt. I observed different species of -the mimosa, doom-trees of the largest size, whose luxuriant clusters -of fruit excited the wishes of the slaves, the nebek-tree, with its -fruit ripe; the allobé, of the size of the nebek, besides a great -number of others unknown to me; to these may be added an abundance of -wild herbage, growing on a rich fat soil, similar to that of Egypt. -The trees were inhabited by great numbers of the feathered tribe, -whose song travellers in Egypt very rarely hear. I saw no birds with -rich plumage, but observed small ones of several different kinds. Some -sweet notes struck my ears, which I had never before heard, and the -amorous cooings of the turtle-dove were unceasing. We hastened to the -river, and eagerly descended its low banks to allay our thirst. Several -camels, at the sight of the water, broke the halters by which they were -led, and in rushing or stumbling down the banks threw off their loads, -and occasioned great clamour and disorder.” - -In the vicinity of Goz Rajeb, Burckhardt saw on the summit of a hill -the ruins of a huge fabric of ancient times, but was deterred from -visiting it by the assertion of his companions that it was the haunt of -banditti. On the 5th of June, while the caravan halted at an encampment -of Hadendoa Bedouins, Burckhardt beheld the effects of a desert storm: -“Towards evening we were visited by another hurricane, the most -tremendous I ever remember to have witnessed. A dark blue cloud first -appeared, extending to about 25° above the horizon; as it approached -nearer, and increased in height, it assumed an ash-gray colour, with -a tinge of yellow, striking every person in the caravan who had not -been accustomed to such phenomena with amazement at its magnificent -and terrific appearance; as the cloud approached still nearer, the -yellow tinge became more general, while the horizon presented the -brightest azure. At last, it burst upon us in its rapid course, and -involved us in darkness and confusion; nothing could be distinguished -at the distance of five or six feet; our eyes were filled with dust; -our temporary sheds were blown down at the first gust, and many of -the more firmly fixed tents of the Hadendoa followed; the largest -withstood for a time the effects of the blast, but were at last obliged -to yield, and the whole camp was levelled with the ground. In the mean -time the terrified camels arose, broke the cords by which they were -fastened, and endeavoured to escape from the destruction which appeared -to threaten them; thus adding not a little to our embarrassment. After -blowing about half an hour with incessant violence, the wind suddenly -abated, and when the atmosphere became clear, the tremendous cloud was -seen continuing its havoc to the north-west.” - -Next day they reached Taka, a district famous for its fertility, where -hares, gazelles, wolves, giraffes, and limes as large, it was said, as -cows, were found in the woods. Hence, after a stay of several days, -they departed for Suakin, and after a not unpleasant journey through a -wild, picturesque country, approached the termination of their toils. -On the morning of the last day they started before sunrise. “The -eastern hills,” says Burckhardt, “terminate in this latitude; and the -sun was just rising beyond them, when we descried its reflection at -an immense distance in the sea, affording a pleasing sight to every -individual in the caravan, but most of all to me.” At length, on the -26th of June, they reached Suakin, and pitched their little sheds at -about twenty minutes’ walk from the town. Next day they were visited -by the emir, who, understanding that our traveller’s camel was an -excellent animal, determined on taking it as a part of the caravan -dues; upon which Burckhardt insisted upon referring their difference -to the Turkish custom-house officer. His wishes were quickly complied -with, but the aga, instead of interfering to protect the stranger, -immediately conceived the idea of uniting with the emir in seizing -upon the whole of his property; and therefore, pretending to regard -him as a Mameluke spy, began at once to overwhelm him with abuse. To -all this Burckhardt returned no reply, but requested the aga to inform -him whether the emir was entitled to his camel. “Not only thy camel,” -replied the Turk, “but thy whole baggage must be taken and searched. -We shall render a good account of them to the pasha, depend upon it. -You shall not impose upon us, you rascal; and you may be thankful if -we do not cut off your head!” Our traveller protested that he was -nothing but an unfortunate merchant, and endeavoured, by a submissive -deportment, to pacify his anger; but “he began cursing and swearing in -Turkish,” says Burckhardt, “and then calling an old cripple, to whom he -had given the title of waly, or police-officer, he ordered him to tie -my hands, to put me in prison, and to bring my slave and baggage into -his presence. I now thought it high time to produce my firmans, which -I drew from a secret pocket in my thaboot; one of them was written in -Turkish, upon a piece of paper two feet and a half in length, and one -foot in breadth, and was sealed with the great seal of Mohammed Aly; -the other, a smaller one, was written in Arabic, and bore the seal of -Ibrahim Pasha, his son, in which Ibrahim termed me ‘Our man, Ibrahim, -the Syrian.’ When Yemak saw the firmans unfolded, he became completely -stupified, and the persons present looked at me with amazement. The -aga could read the Arabic only; but he kissed them both, put them to -his forehead, and then protested to me, in the most submissive terms, -that it was the good of the public service alone that had led him to -treat me as he had done, and for which he begged me a thousand pardons. -Nothing more was said about the emir’s right to my camel, and he -declared that I should pay no duty for my slave, though he was entitled -to it.” - -Burckhardt now disposed of his camel, and took his passage to Jidda -in one of the country vessels. After tossing about the Red Sea for -nearly a fortnight, visiting Macouar, and several points of the -African coast, he arrived at Jidda on the 18th of July, 1814. His -first care now was to present his letter of credit, which being of -an old date, however, he was refused payment, though the merchant -offered him a lodging at his house. This he accepted, but removed, two -days afterward, to a public khan, where he was attacked by a fever, -in which he lay delirious for several days. His recovery from this -violent disorder, which he attributed to his indulging in the fine -fruits of the Jidda market, seems to have been chiefly owing to the -kindness of a Greek captain, who, having been his fellow-passenger from -Suakin, attended him during one of his lucid intervals, and, at his own -request, procured a barber, who bled him copiously. - -Here our traveller was reduced to the hard necessity of parting -with his slave, for whom he obtained forty-eight dollars, of which -thirty-two were profit. With this he dressed himself in the guise of a -reduced Egyptian gentleman, and determined to remain in the Hejaz until -the time of the pilgrimage in the following November. However, as his -funds were far too low to enable him to live independently until that -period, he began to turn his thoughts towards manual labour; but first -determined upon trying the effect of a direct application to Mohammed -Aly, then at Tayef. He accordingly wrote to his highness’s Armenian -physician, who was likewise at Tayef with his master, requesting him to -learn from the pasha whether he would accept a bill upon Burckhardt’s -correspondent at Cairo, and order his treasurer at Jidda to pay the -amount of it. Before the result of this application could be known, -he received an invitation to the house of Tousoun Pasha’s physician, -who, upon being made acquainted with the state of his finances, kindly -offered him the sum of three thousand piasters (about 100_l._) for a -bill upon Cairo payable at sight. Mohammed Aly, to whom his condition -was accidentally made known, immediately despatched a messenger with -two dromedaries, an order for five hundred piasters, and a request that -he would repair immediately with the same messenger to Tayef. With this -invitation, which was, in fact, equivalent to a command, he thought -it necessary to comply, and accordingly set off on the same afternoon -(24th of August) for the interior of the Hejaz. - -They were accompanied during the first portion of the way by about -twenty camel-drivers of the tribe of Harb, who were carrying money to -Mecca for the pasha’s treasury. The road at first lay over a barren -sandy plain, ascending slightly as it receded from the sea; it then -entered the narrow gorges of a mountainous country, where they overtook -a caravan of pilgrims, who were accompanying a quantity of goods and -provisions destined for the army. The pasha, who, no doubt, suspected -the sincerity of our traveller’s creed, had given orders to the guide -to conduct him by a by-road to Tayef, which lay to the north of Mecca: -“Just before we left Hadda,” says Burckhardt, “my guide, who knew -nothing further respecting me than that I had business with the pasha -at Tayef, that I performed all the outward observances of a Moslem -pilgrim, and that I had been liberal to him before our departure, asked -me the reason of his having been ordered to take me by the northern -road. I replied that it was probably thought shorter than the other. -‘That is a mistake,’ he replied; ‘the Mecca road is quite as short, -and much safer; and if you have no objection we will proceed by it.’ -This was just what I wished, though I had taken care not to betray any -anxiety on the subject; and we accordingly followed the great road, in -company with the other travellers.” - -On this occasion, however, Burckhardt saw but little of the sacred -city, as the guide, who had no curiosity to gratify, hurried through -the streets without allowing him time for observation. Continuing -their journey, therefore, towards the east, they arrived, on the 27th -of August, at Ras el Kora, where they passed the night. “This,” says -our traveller, “is the most beautiful spot in the Hejaz, and more -picturesque and delightful than any spot I had seen since my departure -from Lebanon, in Syria. The top of Jebel Kora is flat, but large masses -of granite lie scattered over it, the surface of which, like that of -the granite rocks near the sacred cataract of the Nile, is blackened by -the sun. Several small rivulets descend from this peak, and irrigate -the plain, which is covered with verdant fields, and large shady trees, -on the side of the granite rocks. To those who have only known the -dreary and scorching sands of the lower country of the Hejaz, this -scene is as surprising as the keen air which blows here is refreshing. -Many of the fruit-trees of Europe are found here; figs, apricots, -peaches, apples, the Egyptian sycamore, almonds, pomegranates; but -particularly vines, the produce of which is of the best quality.” -“After having passed through this delightful district for about half an -hour, just as the sun was rising, when every leaf and blade of grass -was covered with a balmy dew, and every tree and shrub diffused a -fragrance as delicious to the smell as was the landscape to the eye, I -halted near the largest of the rivulets, which, although not more than -two paces across, nourishes upon its banks a green alpine turf, such as -the mighty Nile, with all its luxuriance, can never produce in Egypt.” - -Upon his reaching Tayef, he caused his arrival to be made known to -the pasha, who, upon learning his desire to visit the Holy Cities, -expressed a desire to see him late in the evening at his public -residence, and observed jocosely to the Kadhy of Mecca, who happened to -be present, “It is not the beard alone which proves a man to be a true -Moslem; but you are a better judge in such matters than I am.” Our -traveller, on learning these particulars, affected to be much hurt by -the pasha’s suspicions, and let the physician, who was the bearer of -the message, know that he should not go to the pasha’s public audience -unless he was received as a Turk. When the physician delivered this -message, Mohammed Aly smiled, and said that he was welcome, whether -Turk or not. The audience passed off well. But Burckhardt clearly -discovered that he was regarded as a spy of the English government; -that his conduct was narrowly watched; and that, in being made the -guest of the physician, he was a kind of prisoner, all whose words and -actions were reported to the pasha. This was by no means an agreeable -position. He therefore determined to be delivered from it; and, in -order to effect his purpose, adopted the most prudent plan that could -have been imagined: he rendered himself so troublesome and expensive to -his host, that the latter, in order to be freed from him, represented -him in the most favourable light to his master, and contrived to obtain -him permission to spend the last days of the Ramadhan at Mecca. - -Accordingly, on the 7th of September, Burckhardt departed in company -with the kadhy for the Holy City. On passing Wady Mohram, he assumed -the _ihram_, the dress worn by all pilgrims during the Hadj, and -consisting of two pieces of linen, woollen, or cotton cloth, one of -which is wrapped round the loins, while the other is thrown over the -neck and shoulders, so as to leave part of the right arm bare. In -this dress he arrived at Mecca, on the 9th of September; and, as the -law enjoins, proceeded immediately to visit the temple, before he had -attended to any worldly concern whatever. The ceremonies practised -on this occasion are long and tedious, the Mohammedans apparently -believing, like our monkish madmen in Europe, that whatever is painful -or disgusting to man must therefore be pleasing to God. Having -completed these absurdities, he hired a ready-furnished lodging in -the house of a metowaf, or guide to the holy places; who, while the -poor hajjî was occupied with his devotions, employed his spare moments -industriously in stealing whatever he could from his travelling-sack. - -Being desirous of completing his travelling equipments before the -commencement of the Hadj, Burckhardt now proceeded to Jidda, where -such things are more easily procured than at Mecca, and again returned -about the middle of October, with a slave-boy whom he purchased. He -hired apartments in an unfrequented part of the city, where he enjoyed -the advantage of several large trees growing before his windows, “the -verdure of which,” says he, “among the barren and sunburnt rocks of -Mecca, was to me more exhilarating than the finest landscape could -have been under different circumstances.” The principal curiosity of -Mecca is the Beitullah, or House of God, a species of quadrangle, in -the centre of which stands the Kaaba, “an oblong massive structure, -eighteen paces in length, fourteen in breadth, and from thirty-five -to forty feet in height. It is constructed of the gray Mecca stone, -in large blocks of different sizes, joined together in a very rough -manner, and with bad cement.” “At the north-east corner of the Kaaba, -near the door, is the famous ‘Black Stone;’ it forms a part of the -sharp angle of the building at four or five feet above the ground. -It is an irregular oval of about seven inches in diameter, with an -undulating surface, composed of about a dozen smaller stones of -different sizes and shapes, well joined together with a small quantity -of cement, and perfectly smoothed. It looks as if the whole had been -broken into many pieces by a violent blow, and then united again. It -is very difficult to determine accurately the quality of this stone, -which has been worn to its present surface by the millions of touches -and kisses it has received. It appeared to me like a laver, containing -several small extraneous particles, of a whitish and of a yellowish -substance. Its colour is now a deep reddish brown, approaching to -black: it is surrounded on all sides by a border, composed of a -substance which I took to be a close cement of pitch and gravel, of a -similar, but not quite the same, brownish colour. This border serves to -support its detached pieces; it is two or three inches in breadth, and -rises a little above the surface of the stone. Both the border and the -stone itself are encircled by a silver band, broader below than above, -and on the two sides, with a considerable swelling below, as if a part -of the stone were hidden under it. The lower part of the border is -studded with silver nails.” - -I have purposely made use of Burckhardt’s own words in describing -the Black Stone, and several other objects of curiosity, that the -reader may see the exact impressions which they made on the mind -of the traveller; though, as his style is very diffuse, it would -frequently not have been difficult to compress his meaning into a much -smaller compass. I cannot, however, pursue the same course with his -description of the Hadj; which, notwithstanding its interest, is far -too voluminous for the space which I can bestow upon it. On the 21st -of November, 1814, the approach of the Syrian caravan was announced by -a messenger, whose horse dropped down dead the moment he dismounted. -Several other persons followed in about two hours after; and during -the night, the main body, with the Pasha of Damascus at its head, came -up, and encamped in the plain of Sheïkh Mahmoud. Next morning the -Egyptian caravan likewise arrived; and at the same time Mohammed Aly, -who desired to be present at the Hadj, appeared unexpectedly at Mecca, -dressed in an ihram composed of two magnificent shawls of Kashmeer. All -the hajjîs residing in the city now assumed the ihram, with the usual -ceremonies, at their own lodgings, preparatory to their setting out -for Arafat, and at noon heard a short sermon in the mosque. - -The city was now full of movement and activity: all the pilgrims were -preparing to set out for Arafat, some running hither and thither -in search of lodgings, others visiting the markets, or the Kaaba. -Many Meccawys, engaged in petty traffic, were hastening to establish -themselves on the mountain, for the accommodation of the pilgrims. -Camel-drivers led their beasts through the streets, offering them to -the pilgrims for hire. On the 24th of November, the Syrian caravan, -with the Mahmal, or sacred camel, in front, passed in procession -through the city. The majority of the pilgrims rode in a species of -palanquin, placed upon their camels; but the Pasha of Damascus, and -other grandees, were mounted in tackhtravans, or splendid litters, -which were borne by two camels. The heads of these picturesque animals -were decorated with feathers, tassels, and bells. Crowds of people of -all classes lined the streets, and greeted the pilgrims as they passed -with loud acclamations and praise. The martial music of the pasha, -twelve finely-caparisoned horses led in front of his tackhtravan, -and the rich litters in which his women rode, particularly attracted -attention. The Egyptian caravan followed soon after, and, consisting -entirely of military pilgrims in the splendid Turkish costume, was no -less admired than its predecessor. Both continued, without stopping, -their march to Arafat, and were almost immediately followed by the -other pilgrims in the city, and by far the greater proportion of the -population of Mecca and Jidda, among whom our traveller likewise -proceeded to the sacred hill. - -Burckhardt reached the camp about three hours after sunset. The -pilgrims were still wandering about the plain, and among the tents, -in search of their companions, or of their resting-place, and many -did not arrive until midnight. Numberless fires glimmered upon the -dark plain to the extent of several miles; and high and brilliant -clusters of lamps marked the different places of encampment of Mohammed -Aly, Soleyman Pasha, and the Emir el Hadj of the Egyptian caravan. -Few slept: “the devotees set up praying, and their loud chants were -particularly distinguished on the side of the Syrian encampment. The -merry Meccawys formed themselves into parties, singing jovial songs, -accompanied by clapping of hands; and the coffee-houses scattered over -the plain were crowded all night with customers. The night was dark -and cold. I had formed a resting-place for myself by means of a large -carpet tied to the back of a Meccawy’s tent; and having walked about -for the greater part of the night, I had just disposed myself to sleep, -when two guns, fired by the Syrian and Egyptian Hadj, announced the -approaching dawn of the day of pilgrimage, and summoned the faithful to -prepare for their morning prayers.” - -The scene which, on the unfolding of the dawn, presented itself to -the eye of the traveller, was one of the most extraordinary upon -earth. “Every pilgrim issued from his tent to walk over the plains, -and take a view of the busy crowds assembled there. Long streets of -tents, fitted up as bazaars, furnished all kinds of provisions. The -Syrian and Egyptian cavalry were exercised by their chiefs early in -the morning, while thousands of camels were seen feeding upon the dry -shrubs of the plain all round the camp.” Burckhardt now ascended the -summit of Arafat, whence he could enjoy a distant view of the whole, -the mountain being an isolated mass of granite, and reaching the height -of two hundred feet above the level of the plain. From this point he -counted about three thousand tents, but the far greater number were, -like himself, without tents. Twenty or twenty-five thousand camels -were dispersed, in separate groups, over the plain; and the number -of pilgrims of both sexes, and of all classes, could not amount to -less than seventy thousand. “The Syrian Hadj was encamped on the south -and south-west side of the mountain; the Egyptian on the south-east. -Around the house of the Sherif, Yahya himself was encamped with his -Bedouin troops, and in its neighbourhood were all the Hejaz people. -Mohammed Aly, and Soleyman, Pasha of Damascus, as well as several of -their officers, had very handsome tents; but the most magnificent of -all was that of the wife of Mohammed Aly, the mother of Tousoun Pasha -and Ibrahim Pasha, who had lately arrived at Cairo for the Hadj, with a -truly royal equipage, five hundred camels being necessary to transport -her baggage from Jidda to Mecca. Her tent was in fact an encampment, -consisting of a dozen tents of different sizes, inhabited by her -women; the whole enclosed by a wall of linen cloth, eight hundred -paces in circuit, the single entrance to which was guarded by eunuchs -in splendid dresses. Around this enclosure were pitched the tents of -the men who formed her numerous suite. The beautiful embroidery on -the exterior of this linen palace, with the various colours displayed -in every part of it, constituted an object which reminded me of some -descriptions in the Arabian Tales of the Thousand and One Nights.” - -Among the prodigious crowd were persons from every corner of the -Mohammedan world. Burckhardt counted forty different languages, and -did not doubt that there were many more. About three o’clock in the -afternoon, the pilgrims, quitting their tents, which were immediately -struck, and mounting their camels, pressed forward towards Mount -Arafat, and covered its sides from top to bottom. The preacher now -took his stand upon the platform on the mountain, and began to address -the multitude. The hearing of the sermon, which lasts till sunset, -constitutes the holy ceremony of the Hadj, and without being present -at it, and at least appearing to hear, no pilgrim is entitled to the -name of hajjî. “The two pashas, with their whole cavalry drawn up in -two squadrons behind them, took their post in the rear of the deep -line of camels of the hajjîs, to which those of the people of the -Hejaz were also joined: and here they waited in solemn and respectful -silence the conclusion of the sermon. Farther removed from the preacher -was the Sherif Yahya, with his small body of soldiers, distinguished -by several green standards carried before him. The two Mahmals, or -holy camels, which carry on their backs the high structure that serves -as the banner of their respective caravans, made way with difficulty -through the ranks of camels that encircled the southern and eastern -sides of the hill, opposite to the preacher, and took their station, -surrounded by their guards, directly under the platform in front of -him. The preacher, or khatyb, who is usually the Kadhy of Mecca, was -mounted upon a finely-caparisoned camel, which had been led up the -steps; it being traditionally said that Mohammed was always seated when -he addressed his followers, a practice in which he was imitated by all -the califs who came to the Hadj, and who from hence addressed their -subjects in person. The Turkish gentleman of Constantinople, however, -unused to camel-riding, could not keep his seat so well as the hardy -Bedouin prophet; and the camel becoming unruly, he was soon obliged to -alight from it. He read his sermon from a book in Arabic, which he held -in his hands. At intervals of every four or five minutes he paused, -and stretched forth his arms to implore blessings from above; while -the assembled multitudes around and before him waved the skirts of -their ihrams over their heads, and rent the air with shouts of _Lebeyk, -Allah, huma Lebeyk!_--“Here we are at thy bidding, O God!” During the -wavings of the ihrams, the side of the mountain, thickly crowded as -it was by the people in their white garments, had the appearance of -a cataract of water; while the green umbrellas, with which several -thousand hajjîs, sitting on their camels below, were provided, bore -some resemblance to a verdant plain.” - -Burckhardt was present at all the remaining ceremonies of the Hadj, -which I shall not now pause to describe; and after observing whatever -was worthy of examination both at Mecca and Jidda, he joined a small -caravan of pilgrims who were going to visit the tomb of the prophet, -and set out for Medina on the 15th of January, 1815. During this -journey he imprudently advanced before the caravan, and was attacked -by five Bedouins, from whom he was quickly delivered, however, by the -approach of his companions. They reached Medina on the 28th of January. -The ceremonies practised in this city were much less tedious than at -Mecca, and did not occupy our traveller more than a quarter of an hour. -Here, shortly after his arrival, he was attacked by an intermittent -fever, accompanied by extraordinary despondency. His condition, indeed, -was well calculated to inspire gloomy thoughts; for he had no society, -and but one book, which was, however, as he observes, worth a whole -shelf full of others. This was a pocket edition of Milton, which he had -borrowed from an English ship at Jidda. - -Medina, it is well known, is chiefly indebted to the tomb of Mohammed -for its celebrity. This mausoleum, which stands on the south-eastern -corner of the principal mosque, is protected from the too near approach -of visiters by an iron railing, painted green, about two-thirds the -height of the pillars of the colonnade which runs round the interior -of the mosque. “The railing is of good workmanship, in imitation -of filligree, and is interwoven with open-worked inscriptions of -yellow bronze, supposed by the vulgar to be of gold, and of so close -a texture, that no view can be obtained of the interior except by -several small windows about six inches square, which are placed in -the four sides of the railing, about five feet above the ground.” On -the south side, where are the two principal windows, before which -the devout stand when praying, the railing is plated with silver, -and the common inscription--“There is no God but God, the Evident -Truth”--is wrought in silver letters round the windows. The tomb -itself, as well as that of Abu Bekr and Omar, which stand close to it, -is concealed from the public gaze by a curtain of rich silk brocade of -various colours, interwoven with silver flowers and arabesques, with -inscriptions in characters of gold running across the midst of it, -like that of the covering of the Kaaba. Behind this curtain, which, -according to the historian of the city, was formerly changed every six -years, and is now renewed by the Porte whenever the old one is decayed, -or when a new sultan ascends the throne, none but the chief eunuchs, -the attendants of the mosque, are permitted to enter. This holy -sanctuary once served, as the temple of Delphi did among the Greeks, as -the public treasury of the nation. Here the money, jewels, and other -precious articles of the people of the Hejaz were kept in chests, or -suspended on silken ropes. Among these was a copy of the Koran in Kufic -characters; a brilliant star set in diamonds and pearls, which was -suspended directly over the prophet’s tomb; with all sorts of vessels -set with jewels, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments, -sent as presents from all parts of the empire. Most of these articles -were carried away by the Wahabees when they sacked and plundered the -sacred cities. - -On the 21st of April, 1815, Burckhardt quitted Medina with a small -caravan bound for Yembo, on the seacoast. His mind was still -exceedingly depressed by the weak state of his body; and his gayety -and animal spirits, with the energy which accompanies them in ardent -minds, having deserted him, the world assumed in his eyes a sombre -aspect, which rendered travelling and every other pleasure insipid. -All he now sighed for was rest. This mental condition seems strongly -to have affected even his opinions. His views both of men and things -became cynical. Vice seemed to have spread like a deluge over the -eastern world, leaving no single spot whereon Virtue might rest the -sole of her foot. “For my own part,” says he, “_a long residence_ among -Turks, Syrians, and Egyptians _justifies me in declaring that they -are wholly deficient in virtue, honour, and justice_; that they have -_little true piety_, and _still less charity or forbearance_; and that -_honesty_ is only to be found in their _paupers or idiots_.” His mind -was certainly labouring under the effects of his Medina fever when he -wrote this passage, and it would therefore be lost labour to analyze or -confute it minutely. That people who are “wholly deficient in virtue, -honour, and justice” should be destitute of honesty, is no more to be -wondered at than that a black camel should not be half-white; but if -“true piety” be, as most moralists will admit, to be numbered among -the virtues, then the orientals are not, as Mr. Burckhardt asserts, -“_wholly_ deficient in virtue,” &c., since he allows that they have -some, though but little, “true piety.” Again, either the majority of -the orientals are rich, or the majority of them are honest; for if the -majority of them are poor, or paupers, then the majority of them are -honest; for honesty, we are told, is only to be found among paupers and -idiots. It would be easy to expose and refute our traveller’s assertion -by the direct testimony of persons still more competent than he to -decide on such points; but his opinion is palpably absurd, like most -others formed by sick or gloomy individuals, since no society could -subsist if formed entirely of vicious members. Had Burckhardt himself -lived to see his works through the press, such passages as the above -would, I am persuaded, have been expunged or modified; for he was much -too judicious deliberately to have hazarded so monstrous an assertion. - -Upon his arrival at Yembo, dejected and melancholy, to add to his -despondency, he found the plague raging in the city. The air, night and -day, was filled with the piercing cries of those who had been bereaved -of the objects of their affection; yet, as no vessel was ready to -sail for Egypt, he was constrained to remain during eighteen days in -the midst of the dying and the dead, continually exposed to infection -through the heedlessness and the imprudence of his slave. At length, -however, he procured a passage in an open boat bound for Cosseir, many -of the passengers in which were sick of a disease which appeared to -be the plague, though only two of them died. After remaining twenty -days on board, he was, at his own request, put on shore in the harbour -of Sherin, at the entrance of the Gulf of Akaba, where he agreed with -some Bedouins to transport him and his slave to Tor and Suez. Learning -on the way, however, that the plague was at Suez, he remained at a -village in the vicinity of the former place, where the enjoyment of -tranquillity and a bracing mountain air soon restored his strength, -and enabled him, though still convalescent, to pursue his journey to -Cairo, where he arrived on the 24th of June, after an absence of nearly -two years and a half. As his health was not yet completely recovered, -he undertook a journey into Lower Egypt during the following winter, -which, as he seems to have believed, restored his constitution to its -former tone. - -His time was now entirely occupied in writing the journal of his -Nubian and Arabian travels, and in the necessary care of his health, -which, notwithstanding his sanguine expectation to the contrary, was -still in a somewhat equivocal state. In the spring of 1816 the plague -again broke out at Cairo, and our traveller, to avoid the infection, -undertook a journey to Mount Sinai, intending to remain, until the -pestilence should be over, among the Bedouins, who are never visited by -this scourge. During this excursion he traced the course of the eastern -branch of the Red Sea to within sight of Akaba, the ancient Ælanas, -which he was prevented by circumstances from visiting. On his return -to Cairo, he united with Mr. Salt in furnishing Belzoni with money for -transporting the head of Memnon from Gournou to Alexandria. The scheme, -it would seem, originated with Burckhardt and Salt, to whom, therefore, -we are chiefly indebted for the possession of that extraordinary -specimen of ancient art. - -On the 4th of October, 1817, Burckhardt, who had so long waited in -vain for an opportunity of penetrating with a Moggrebin caravan into -Africa, was attacked with violent dysentery. The best medical advice -which an eminent English physician (Doctor Richardson), then at Cairo, -could afford was found unavailing. The disease prevailed, and on the -15th of the same month our able, adventurous, and lamented traveller -breathed his last. As he had lived while in the East as a Mussulman, -the Turks, he foresaw, would claim his body, “and perhaps,” said -he to Mr. Salt, who was present at his death-bed, “you had better -let them.”--“The funeral, as he desired,” says this gentleman, “was -Mohammedan, conducted with all proper regard to the respectable rank -which he had held in the eyes of the natives.” This was honourable -to his Cairo friends; and to those who are interested in the history -of his manly career it is gratifying to discover how highly he was -valued. I have closed the lives of few travellers with more regret. -It would have given me extreme pleasure to have followed him through -those undiscovered regions whither his ardent imagination so anxiously -tended; and, instead of thus recording his untimely death, to have -beheld him enjoying in the first capital of the world the reward -of his courage and enterprise. That I cannot enter into all Mr. -Burckhardt’s views, either of men or things, is no reason why I should -not be sensible of his extraordinary merit. His character, upon the -whole, admirably fitted him to be a great traveller. He was bold, -patient, persevering, judicious. He penetrated with admirable tact -into the designs of his enemies, and not only knew how to prevent -them, but, what was more difficult, to turn them to the confusion -of their inventors. Upon this very excellence, however, was based -one of his principal defects; he interpreted men in too refined and -systematical a manner, and often saw in their actions more contrivance -than ever existed. He was too hasty, moreover, in believing evil of -mankind, which, with too many other able speculators, he supposed to -be the necessary consequence of a philosophical spirit. But he was a -young man. His mind, had he lived, would unquestionably have purified -itself from this stain, as truth, which he possessed the courage and -the ability to search for with success, was his only object. The -works which he has left behind him, exceedingly numerous considering -his brief career, are an imperishable monument of his genius and -enterprise, and, when the fate of the writer is reflected on, can never -be read without a feeling of deep interest almost amounting to emotion. -Fortunately for his fame, their publication has been superintended -by editors every way qualified for the task, who, without in the -least dissipating their originality, must in very many instances have -infinitely improved their style and arrangement. A popular edition of -the whole would at once be a benefit to the public and an additional -honour to the memory of Burckhardt. - - - - -CONSTANTIN FRANCOIS CHASSEBŒUF DE VOLNEY. - -Born 1757.--Died 1820. - - -This traveller, who is very justly enumerated among the most -distinguished which France has produced, was born on the 3d of -February, 1757, at Craon, in Anjou. His father, an able provincial -barrister, was unwilling that he should bear the name of _Chassebœuf_ -(ox or bull hunter), which in his own case had been, though we are -not told how, a source of a thousand uneasinesses, and therefore gave -his son the name of Boisgirais, under which appellation our traveller -studied at the colleges of Ancenis and Angers, and was at first known -in the world. At a later period, just as he was about to depart for the -East, he quitted the name of Boisgirais, and assumed that of Volney, -which he was shortly after to render so celebrated. - -Becoming his own master at the age of seventeen, with a small -independence bequeathed him by his mother, he quitted the country for -Paris, where he applied himself to the study of the severer sciences. -Volney felt no inclination for the profession of a barrister, which -it was his father’s desire he should follow; physic appeared to have -greater charms for him, and he at first seemed disposed to adopt this -as his profession; but his speculative turn of mind soon led him to -look with disdain on its practical part. Scarcely had he reached his -twentieth year when he entered with enthusiasm into the study of the -science of nature, delighting to discover the relations which subsist -between the moral and the physical world. He moreover devoted a -portion of his time to the study of the history and languages of -antiquity. - -When he had made these preparations, apparently without foreseeing to -what use he should apply them, a small inheritance which fell to him -put him in possession of two hundred and forty pounds. “The difficulty -was,” he observes, “how to employ it. Some of my friends advised me to -enjoy the capital, others to purchase an annuity; but, on reflection, -I thought the sum too inconsiderable to make any sensible addition to -my income, and too great to be dissipated in frivolous expenses. Some -fortunate circumstances had habituated me to study; I had acquired a -taste, and even a passion, for knowledge; and this accession of fortune -appeared to me a fresh means of gratifying my inclination, and opening -a new way to improvement. I had read, and frequently heard repeated, -that of all the methods of adorning the mind and forming the judgment, -travelling is the most efficacious. I determined, therefore, on a plan -of travelling; but to what part of the world I should direct my course -remained still to be chosen. I wished the scene of my observations to -be new, or at least brilliant. My own country and the neighbouring -nations seemed to me either too well known or too easy of access; -the rising States of America and the savages were not without their -temptations; but other considerations determined me in favour of Asia. -Syria especially, and Egypt, both with a view of what they once have -been, and what they now are, appeared to me a field equally adapted to -those political and moral observations with which I wished to occupy my -mind.” - -Foreseeing the fatigues and dangers of such a journey, he occupied a -whole year in preparing himself to undertake it, by accustoming his -body to the most violent exercises and the most painful privations. -At length, all his preparatory arrangements being completed, he -commenced his journey on foot, with a knapsack on his back, a musket -on his shoulder, and two hundred and forty pounds in gold concealed in -his girdle. “When I set out from Marseilles in 1783,” says he, “it was -with all my heart; with that alacrity, that confidence in others and -in myself which youth inspires. I gayly quitted a country of peace and -abundance to live in a country of barbarism and misery, from no other -motive than to employ the active and restless moments of youth, to -acquire a new kind of knowledge, which might procure for the remainder -of my days a certain portion of reputation and honour.” - -On arriving in Egypt he proceeded to Cairo, where he remained during -seven months; after which, finding that there existed too many -obstacles to a proper examination of the interior parts of the country, -and that too little assistance in learning Arabic was to be obtained, -he determined on travelling into Syria. M. Durozoir, the author of the -Life of Volney, in the “Biographie Universelle,” to which I am greatly -indebted, falls into a most unaccountable error in narrating this part -of our traveller’s career. According to him, Volney had no sooner -arrived in Egypt than he shut himself up in a Coptic convent, where -he remained _eight months_, for the purpose of acquiring the Arabic; -after which he traversed the country with more advantages than any -other traveller had hitherto enjoyed. Volney himself asserts, on the -contrary, that he resided but _seven months_ in the country; that he -was prevented by obstacles which appeared to him insurmountable from -traversing more than a very small portion of Egypt; that he did not -acquire a competent knowledge of Arabic until he arrived in Syria, -where (and not in Egypt) he shut himself up during eight months in an -Arabian convent, in order to render himself master of the language. -M. Durozoir must have forgotten Pococke, and Shaw, and Hasselquist, -and Niebuhr and Bruce, every one of whom were superior in external -_advantages_ to Volney, and probably understood the language of the -country better than he did previous to his residence in Syria. It is -surprising, therefore, to find a writer of respectable name speaking -of the advantages which Volney possessed over all preceding travellers -in Egypt, arising from his long residence and knowledge, while most of -his predecessors saw ten times more of the country, enjoyed greater -privileges, and possessed a more intimate knowledge of Arabic. The -real advantage which Volney actually did possess over the majority of -Egyptian travellers consisted in his superior genius, which enabled him -to turn his short experience to good account, and to comprehend the -meanings of things which thousands had seen without comprehending at -all. - -The mode in which Volney has given the results of his travels to -the public precludes the possibility of our following his track. He -sedulously avoids, as Daru has justly remarked, placing himself upon -the stage, and neither tells you by what route he travelled through -the country, nor what were the impressions which the sight of certain -objects produced upon his mind. The fact must be admitted, whether -it make for or against the author; but when the count proceeds to -inform us, in his inflated rhetorical style, that the traveller is -suddenly transformed into a native of the country, who, after mature -observation, describes its physical, political, and moral condition, we -smile at his boyish enthusiasm. - -I cannot help regretting, however, that our traveller should have -omitted to trace his route through Egypt, not only because his having -done so would have been advantageous to me, but from a persuasion -that the omission has been seriously injurious to his popularity. It -is, moreover, a very great error, and one in which I myself formerly -participated, to imagine that a traveller is more likely to impart -just notions of the scene of his researches by giving the results only -of his experience, suppressing the manner in which that experience -was obtained. An attentive examination of the works of travellers of -all ages and countries has at length created a contrary conviction -in my mind. In a judicious personal narrative the traveller is but -one interlocutor in a drama exhibiting innumerable characters and a -perpetually changing scene. You in some sort behold him surrounded by -strangers in a strange land; you observe them not, and hear them, as it -were, converse together; and if the traveller himself sometimes feigns -or walks in masquerade, it is rarely that the natives can be supposed -to have sufficiently powerful motives for so doing. They exhibit -themselves exactly as they are. It would seem to follow from this view -of the case, that whatever its advantages in other respects may be, the -method adopted by Volney is liable, on the grounds above stated, to -very serious objections. It not only shuts out the traveller from our -view, but, in lieu of an animated picture, presents us with reasoning -and discussion, able, I admit, and frequently original, but wanting -that irresistible charm which is possessed in so eminent a degree by -beautiful narrative. - -Having examined such objects of curiosity in Lower Egypt as could -easily be viewed, and collected ample materials for the defence of -Herodotus, the greatest traveller of all antiquity, from the attacks -of conceited and ignorant persons, Volney passed into Syria. “Here,” -he observes, “eight months’ residence among the Druses, in an Arabian -convent, rendered the Arabic familiar to me, and enabled me to travel -through all Syria during a whole year.” His long residence in the -mountains of Syria, during which he no doubt undertook numerous little -excursions in various directions, furnished him with materials for a -correct picture of the scene. This he has drawn with equal vigour -and beauty. “Lebanon,” says he, “which gives its name to the whole -extensive chain of the Kesraouan, and the country of the Druses, -presents us everywhere with majestic mountains. At every step we -meet with scenes in which nature displays either beauty or grandeur; -sometimes singularity, but always variety. When we land on the coast, -the loftiness and steep ascent of this mountainous ridge, which seems -to enclose the country, those gigantic masses which shoot into the -clouds, inspire astonishment and awe. Should the curious traveller then -climb these summits which bound his view, the wide extended place which -he discovers becomes a fresh subject of admiration; but completely to -enjoy this majestic scene, he must ascend the very point of Lebanon, -or the Sannia. There on every side he will view a horizon without -bounds; while in clear weather the sight is lost over the desert, which -extends to the Persian Gulf, and over the sea, which bathes the coasts -of Europe. He seems to command the whole world, while the wandering -eye, now surveying the successive chains of mountains, transports -the imagination in an instant from Antioch to Jerusalem, and now -approaching the surrounding objects, observes the distant profundity of -the coast, till the attention, at length, fixed by distinctive objects, -more minutely examines the rocks, woods, torrents, hillsides, villages, -and towns; and the mind secretly exults at the diminution of things -which before appeared so great. He contemplates the valley obscured by -stormy clouds with a novel delight; and smiles at hearing the thunder, -which had so often burst over his head, growling under his feet, while -the threatening summits of the mountains are diminished till they -appear only like the furrows of a ploughed field, or the steps of an -amphitheatre; and he feels himself flattered by an elevation above so -many great objects on which pride makes him look down with a secret -satisfaction. When the traveller visits the interior parts of these -mountains, the ruggedness of the roads, the steepness of the descents, -the height of the precipices, strike him at first with terror, but the -sagacity of his mule soon relieves him, and he examines at his ease -those picturesque scenes which succeed each other to entertain him. -There, as in the Alps, he travels whole days to reach a place that -was in sight at his departure: he winds, he descends, he skirts the -hills, he climbs; and in this perpetual change of position it seems as -if some magic power varied for him at every step the decorations of -the scenery. Sometimes he sees villages ready to glide from the steep -declivities on which they are built, and so disposed, that the terraces -of one row of houses serve as a street to the row above them. Sometimes -he sees a convent standing on a solitary eminence, like Mar-shaya in -the valley of the Tigris. Here is a rock perforated by a torrent, and -become a natural arch, like that of Nahr-el-Leben. There another rock, -worn perpendicular, resembles a lofty wall.” - -The same difficulty of tracing the footsteps of our traveller of -which I complained when speaking of his Egyptian journey occurs again -in Syria. It is, in fact, impossible to discover from his works any -particulars, excepting a few dates, which are perfectly unimportant. -After a protracted residence at the convent of Mar-hanna, or “St. -John,” where, as already observed, he matured his knowledge of Arabic, -he descended into the lower districts, and visited a Bedouin camp, -near Gaza, where he remained several days. I know not whether it was -upon this or on some other occasion that he so far recommended himself -to the chief of a tribe by his agreeable manners, as to inspire in -the Arabs a desire to retain him among them. Having remarked that the -Bedouins enjoy an extraordinary freedom from religious prejudices, -and are consequently disposed to be tolerant, he adds, “Nothing can -better describe, or be a more satisfactory proof of this, than a -dialogue which one day passed between myself and one of their sheïkhs, -named Ahmed, son of Bahir, chief of the tribe of Wahidia. ‘Why,’ said -this sheïkh to me, ‘do you wish to return among the Franks? Since you -have no aversion to our manners, since you know how to use the lance -and manage a horse like a Bedouin, stay among us. We will give you -pelisses, a tent, a virtuous and young Bedouin girl, and a good blood -mare. You shall live in our house.’--‘But do you not know,’ said I, -‘that, born among the Franks, I have been educated in their religion? -In what light will the Arabs view an infidel, or what will they think -of an apostate?’--‘And do you not yourself perceive,’ said he, ‘that -the Arabs live without troubling themselves either about the prophet, -or the _Book_ (the Koran)? Every man with us follows the dictates of -his conscience. Men have a right to judge of actions, but religion must -be left to God alone.’ Another sheïkh, conversing with me one day, -addressed me, by mistake, in the customary formulary, ‘Listen, and -pray for the prophet.’ Instead of the usual answer, _I have prayed_, -I replied with a smile, ‘_I listen_.’ He recollected his error, and -smiled in his turn. A Turk of Jerusalem who was present took the matter -up more seriously: ‘O sheïkh,’ said he, ‘how canst thou address the -words of the true believers to an infidel?’--‘The tongue is _light_;’ -replied the sheïkh, ‘let but the heart be _white_ (pure); but you who -know the customs of the Arabs, how can you offend a stranger, with whom -we have eaten bread and salt?’ Then, turning to me, ‘All those tribes -of Frankestan, of whom you told me that they follow not the law of the -prophet, are they more numerous than the Mussulmans?’--‘It is thought,’ -answered I, ‘that they are five or six times more numerous, even -including the Arabs.’--‘God is just,’ returned he; ‘he will weigh them -in his balance.’” - -The most singular people, however, who came under the observation of -Volney during his eastern travels, were unquestionably the Druses. -Extraordinary stories respecting their origin and manners had from -time to time prevailed in Europe. By some they were supposed to be -the descendants of the crusaders, particularly of the English; others -attributed to them a different origin; but all agreed in accusing them -of believing in strange absurd dogmas, and of practising monstrous -rites. At length he obtained from oriental writers the following -account of the rise of this remarkable sect. In the year of the -Hegira 386 (A. D. 996) the third calif of the race of the Fatimites, -called Hakem-b’amr-ellah, succeeded to the throne of Egypt, at the -age of eleven years. He was one of the most extraordinary princes of -whom history has preserved the memory. He caused the first calif, -the companion of Mahomet, to be cursed in the mosques, and afterward -revoked the anathema. He compelled the Jews and Christians to abjure -their religion, and then permitted them to resume it. He prohibited -the making slippers for women, to prevent their coming out of their -houses. He burnt one-half of the city of Cairo for his diversion, while -his soldiers pillaged the other. Not content with these extravagant -actions, he forbade the pilgrimage to Mecca, fasting, and the five -prayers; and at length carried his madness so far, as to desire to pass -for God himself. He ordered a register of those who acknowledged him -to be so; and the number amounted to sixteen thousand. This impious -pretension was supported by a false prophet, who came from Persia -into Egypt; which impostor, named Mohammed-ben-Ismael, taught that it -was not necessary to fast or pray, to practise circumcision, to make -the pilgrimage to Mecca, or observe festivals; that the prohibition -of pork and wine was absurd; and that marriage between brothers and -sisters, fathers and children, was lawful. To ingratiate himself -with Hakem, he maintained that this calif was God himself incarnate, -and instead of his name being _Hakem-b’amr-ellah_, which signifies -governing by the order of God, he called him _Hakem-b’amr-eh_, -governing by his own order. Unluckily for the prophet, his god had -not the power to protect him from the fury of his enemies, who slew -him in a tumult, almost in the arms of the calif, who was himself -massacred soon after on Mount Mokattam, where he, as he said, had held -conversation with angels. The death of these two chiefs did not prevent -the progress of their opinions: a disciple of Mohammed-ben-Ismael, -named Hamzaben-Ahmud, propagated them with indefatigable zeal, in -Egypt, in Palestine, and along the coast of Syria, as far as Sidon -and Berytus. His proselytes, it seems, underwent the same fate as the -Maronites; for being persecuted by the sect in power, they took refuge -in the mountains of Lebanon, where they were better able to defend -themselves; at least it is certain, that shortly after this era we find -them established there, and forming an independent society like their -neighbours. - -In the opinion of Volney the great body of the Druses are wholly -destitute of religion; “yet,” says he, “one class of them must be -excepted, whose religious customs are very peculiar. Those who compose -it are to the rest of the nation what the _initiated_ are to the -_profane_; they assume the name of Okkals, which means spiritualists; -and bestow on the vulgar the epithet Djahel, or ignorant; they have -various degrees of initiation, the highest orders of which require -celibacy. These are distinguishable by the white turban they affect -to wear, as a symbol of their purity; and so proud are they of this -supposed purity, that they think themselves sullied by even touching -a profane person. If you eat out of their plate, or drink out of their -cup, they break them; and hence the custom so general in this country, -of using vases with a sort of cock, which may be drunk out of without -touching the lips. All their practices are enveloped in mysteries. -Their oratories always stand alone, and are constantly situated on -eminences: in these they hold their secret assemblies, to which -women are admitted. It is pretended they perform ceremonies there in -presence of a small statue resembling an ox or a calf; whence some have -pretended to prove that they are descended from the Samaritans. But, -besides that the fact is not well ascertained, the worship of the ox -may be deduced from other circumstances. - -“They have one or two books which they conceal with the greatest care, -but chance has deceived their jealousy; for, in a civil war, which -happened six or seven years ago, the Emir Yousef, who is _Djahel_, -or ignorant, found one among the pillage of their oratories. I am -assured by persons who have read it, that it contains only a mystic -jargon, the obscurity of which doubtless renders it valuable to adepts. -Hakem-b’amr-ellah is there spoken of, by whom they mean God, incarnated -in the person of the calif. It likewise treats of another life, of -a place of punishment and a place of happiness, where the Okkals -shall of course be most distinguished. Several degrees of perfection -are mentioned, to which they arrive by successive trials. In other -respects these sectaries have all the insolence and all the fears of -superstition: they are not communicative, because they are weak; but it -is probable that, were they powerful, they would be promulgators and -intolerant.” - -On returning to France after an absence of nearly three years (which -M. Durozoir, who loves to differ with the traveller upon such points, -will have to be nearly _four years_), Volney employed himself in -preparing his “Travels” for the press. Upon the appearance of the work -the public, which is seldom in the wrong in such matters, received it -as a masterpiece of its kind; and from that time to the present its -reputation may be said to be on the increase. I am averse from adopting -the unmeaning or exaggerated panegyrics of his French biographers, who -are satisfied with nothing short of regarding Volney as the continuator -of Herodotus, with whom they seem to consider him upon a par. No -person can be more desirous than myself to enhance the just praises -of Volney, who has exhibited, in his description of Syria and Egypt, -remarkable force and depth of thinking, and powers of delineation of -no ordinary class. But in Herodotus we have a picture of the whole -world, as far, at least, as it was known in his time, sketched with -inimitable truth and brevity, and adorned with a splendour of colouring -which with matchless skill he has known how to unite with the severest -accuracy. To many of the excellences of this writer Volney has no -pretensions. Others he may have possessed in an equal degree; but I -will not continue a comparison in itself absurd, never dreamed of by -the traveller himself, and which could only have suggested itself to -writers blinded by national vanity. - -To proceed, however, with the events of our traveller’s life. No sooner -had the travels appeared, than the Empress Catherine II., who, besides -her desire to wheedle every writer of distinction in Europe, was -really actuated by an admiration for genius, sent him a gold medal in -token of her satisfaction. This was in the year 1787. In the following -year he published his “Considerations on the War between the Turks -and Russians.” In this political pamphlet the knowledge which he had -acquired in his travels was of course the basis of his reasoning; but -he had likewise received, perhaps from the Russian court, information -which would appear to have been correct, respecting the resources of -the Scythians; for events, says his French biographer with a kind -of triumph, have realized nearly all his predictions. He did not, -continues the same writer, forget, in the consideration of this great -quarrel, the interests of France, and dwelt more particularly on -the project of seizing upon Egypt, in order to counterbalance the -aggrandizement of Russia and Austria. But to the execution of this -project he foresaw numerous obstacles. “In the first place,” said -he, “it will be necessary to maintain three separate wars: the first -against Turkey, the second against the English, and a third against -the natives of Egypt, which, though apparently the least formidable, -will be the most dangerous of the three. Should the Franks venture to -disembark in the country, Turks, Arabs, and peasants would all arm -against them at once: and fanaticism would serve them instead of art -and courage.” - -From the period of his return into his country, being actuated by the -desire of being useful, which seems to have been ever predominant in -his mind, though it did not always manifest itself in a rational way, -Volney conceived the idea of introducing improvements in agriculture in -the island of Corsica. For this purpose he began to concert measures -for purchasing an estate in that island, on which he meant to make -several experiments in the culture of the sugar-cane, cotton, indigo, -coffee, &c. The utility of these schemes induced the French government -to nominate him Director of Agriculture and Commerce in Corsica; but -other duties retained him in his country. Upon the convocation of the -States General in 1789, he was elected deputy for the seneschalship -of Anjou. Shortly after this he resigned the place he held under -government, being persuaded that the duties of a representative of the -people, and those of a dependant on the government, are incompatible. -In the tribune of the Constituent Assembly Volney advocated the same -opinions which are found in his writings. He was the declared enemy -of despotism, whether exercised by one individual or by many; and -constantly distinguished himself by his bold and liberal advocacy of -popular rights. His intimate connexion with Cabanis, celebrated for -the extravagance of his metaphysical opinions, frequently brought him -into contact with Mirabeau, the Catiline of the revolution. This able -improvisator, equally indifferent respecting the _meum_ and _tuum_ in -ideas as in money, in a discussion concerning the clergy, borrowed from -Volney his well-known rhetorical flourish _on the window of Charles -IX._, from whence that gracious monarch amused himself with shooting -at his subjects. Twenty deputies were besieging the tribune, and among -these was Volney, who held a written discourse in his hand. “Show -me what you are going to say,” said Mirabeau. “This is beautiful, -sublime,” he exclaimed, after having glanced over the manuscript; -“but it is not with a feeble voice and a clear countenance that such -things should be uttered. Give the manuscript to me!” Such consummate -arrogance was not to be resisted. Volney yielded up his speech to the -audacious sophist, who, melting up our traveller’s original ideas -with his own, poured out the whole with that artificial theatrical -enthusiasm which produces upon inexperienced minds nearly the same -effects as eloquence. It is said that Volney ere long began to perceive -that the storm which had been raised with so much labour and artifice -was likely to sweep away in its fury much more than was intended; and -that he then began to think of moderating its rage. But if he was in -earnest in his opposition, he very quickly had the mortification to -discover that his efforts were futile; that revolution had, in fact, -become a general movement, which bore down with irresistible violence -every obstacle which might be opposed to it, whether by friends or foes. - -In the midst of these political labours Volney found time to produce -two works of very different character and pretensions: “The Chronology -of the Twelve Centuries preceding the Invasion of Greece by Xerxes,” -and his well-known rhapsody called the “Ruins.” Shortly after this, -the Empress Catherine, who found that she had been made the dupe of -the French sophists, declared herself the enemy of France; upon which -Volney, eager to display his contempt for his fickle admirer, returned -the medal which she had formerly presented to him. Upon this, Grimm, -the literary gladiator of the empress, and up to that moment the friend -of Volney, addressed him a letter filled with the most biting sarcasms -and unjust personalities, but written in so keen a style that it has -been attributed to Rivarol, another clever advocate of ancient abuses. - -In 1792 Volney accompanied Pozzo di Borgo to Corsica, with his old -design of making agricultural experiments. He accordingly purchased -the estate of La Confina, near Ajaccio, and was proceeding to realize -some of his useful plans, when he was driven from the island by the -troubles excited by Pascal Paoli, who sold his estate by auction, -notwithstanding that he had recently given him various assurances -of friendship. During his residence in Corsica our traveller became -acquainted with Napoleon, who was at that time only an officer of -artillery. He is said to have divined the character of this ambitious -man from the first; and some years later, upon learning in America that -Napoleon had been appointed commander of the army of Italy, he remarked -to several French refugees, “Provided that circumstances second him, -he will be found to possess the head of Cæsar on the shoulders of -Alexander.” This oracular saying, which is by no means the best thing -of the kind attributed to our traveller, is remarkable merely for the -pomposity of the expression, and signifies little or nothing, except -that Napoleon was as able as he was ambitious. On his return to France, -in 1793, he published a “Sketch of the State of Corsica,” and the -“Law of Nature,” the latter of which M. Durozoir, with characteristic -exaggeration, pronounces to be “one of the best treatises on morals -which have ever been published in any language.” The “Law of Nature” is -well known in England, and proves its writer to have been a man of an -acute and vigorous mind, as well as an accomplished master of style; -but it would be paying Volney an absurd compliment to place his little -catechism, in which there are no ideas absolutely new, on a level with -the “Ethics to Nichomachus,” or the great work of Panætius, of which -we may form a tolerably clear conception from the “De Officiis” of -Cicero, which is little more than a copy of it. Moreover, in the “Law -of Nature,” man is considered too much in a material, and too little in -a spiritual light; which, though it may be a merit in the eyes of such -a writer as M. Durozoir, must to a person of a different creed appear -to be a very remarkable defect. Considering the question merely in a -philosophical point of view, it can, I think, admit of no dispute that -the incentives to good actions can never be too numerous; but Volney, -from his peculiar notions, could only speak of morals as of physical -science, which, taken as a whole, it certainly is not. Whatever merit -this little tract may possess, therefore, it seems to be essentially -defective in attributing to one set of principles effects which they -never produce unless in combination with others. - -In 1793 our traveller, whose political opinions were purely republican, -was imprisoned ten months as a _royalist_, and only recovered his -liberty after the events of the 9th of Thermidor. To console him in -some degree for this injustice, he was shortly afterward appointed -historical professor in the Normal School, which had just then been -established by the friends of order and of their country. Volney was -eminently well qualified to shine in this capacity. His reading, -which was immense, had lain much, if not chiefly, among historical -writers; and his calm, penetrating genius enabled him to discover with -extraordinary precision the natural chain of events. Nevertheless, -from a passion for vain paradox, which has of late been but too common -both in France and Germany among persons who would be thought to be -philosophers, he unfortunately exhibited in his historical researches -a degree of skepticism highly absurd. He had perhaps read and admired -the startling proposition of Aristotle, that doubt is the foundation of -all science; but if doubt eternally generate doubt, upon what basis are -the sciences to be erected? The Greek philosopher, I conceive, merely -intends to say, that without doubt there can be no inquiry, and without -inquiry no science. However, notwithstanding this radical defect, -Volney’s lectures at the Normal School were received with applause, -principally perhaps from the striking originality of the author’s -style, and the novelty of his views. Truths long and familiarly known, -appear to lose their beauty, and are eagerly exchanged for errors, -tricked out in all the dazzling gloss of novelty. - -His oratorical career was not of long duration. The Normal School was -quickly suppressed; and Volney, disgusted and fatigued with fruitless -endeavours to benefit his country, determined on deserting it for ever, -and seeking in the New World that tranquillity which he had failed to -find in the Old. On his arrival in the United States of America, in -1795, he was well received by Washington, who gave him many public -marks of his confidence and friendship. It is said, however, though I -know not upon what grounds, that John Adams, elected president in 1797, -entertained feelings highly inimical to Volney, who, a short time -before, had criticised severely, perhaps unjustly, his “Defence of the -Constitutions of the United States.” It is even insinuated by Durozoir, -whose unsupported testimony I should, however, refuse to accept in a -matter of this kind, that our traveller was driven from America by the -unmanly revenge of John Adams in the spring of 1798. Be this as it may, -he was suspected by the Americans of being engaged in a conspiracy -for delivering up Louisiana to the Directory; while in France, on the -other hand, he was accused of having asserted that Louisiana could -never become an advantageous possession of the French republic. While -his mind was thus harassed by contradictory and absurd suspicions, Dr. -Priestley published his “Observations on the Progress of Infidelity,” -&c., in which Volney, says Durozoir, who probably had no more read -Priestley’s pamphlet than I have, was denounced as an “atheist, an -ignoramus, a Chinese, and a Hottentot.” Priestley was no doubt a rough -polemic, too much addicted, perhaps, to hard names; but the work which -he denounced had, in many respects, a highly mischievous tendency, and -in refuting it some degree of warmth was pardonable. - -On our traveller’s return to France, where he had been elected a member -of the Institute during his absence, he became once more intimately -connected with Napoleon, whom, in 1794, he had dissuaded from seeking -military employment in Turkey or Russia, and by his influence caused -to be restored to his rank in the army. Napoleon was not ungrateful, -and when elected to the consulate was desirous of naming Volney his -colleague. This dignity, however, the traveller refused, as well as -that of minister of the interior, which was soon afterward offered -him. He was content with the mere rank of senator. When at a future -period Napoleon was about to assume the title of emperor, Volney -ventured to oppose him, observing that _it were better to restore the -Bourbons_. From this time forward he was invariably found among that -small minority in the senate who condemned and opposed the despotic -measures of the emperor; yet he allowed himself to be decorated with -the rank of count, and the title of commandant of the Legion of Honour. -Still he took little share in political matters, preferring before all -distinctions retirement and study. - -In 1803 appeared his “Description of the Climate and Soil of the United -States,” a work possessing, no doubt, considerable merit, but which -has been far from obtaining equal success with his “Eastern Travels.” -He now resumed his chronological studies, which had been for some time -interrupted. In these he gave vent to all his heterodox opinions, -which it could answer no good purpose either to retail or refute in -this place. Others, more deeply versed than I in the chronology of the -world, have performed this task; which was not, however, extremely -necessary, as Volney’s labours on this subject seem designed never -to acquire popularity. In 1810 he married Mademoiselle Chassebœuf, -his cousin, for whose amusement he purchased a large mansion, with -extensive gardens, &c., in the Rue Vaugirard. Here he lived in a kind -of morose and misanthropic retirement, heightened, if not caused, by -his gloomy and unhappy opinions; and here he died, on the 25th of -April, 1820, in the sixty-third year of his age. - - - - -EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE. - -Born 1769.--Died 1822. - - -Edward Daniel Clarke was born on the 5th of June, 1769, at Willingdon, -in the county of Sussex. Even when a child he is said to have displayed -great narrative powers, which he exercised as frequently as possible -for the amusement of his father’s domestics and parishioners. In his -boyish studies, however, he was wanting in application; a fault arising -from the quickness and vivacity of his mind, actuated by insatiable -curiosity, and characterized from the beginning by a decided partiality -for natural history. Still, the loss sustained by this species of -negligence he afterward severely felt, when, notwithstanding the habits -of industry which he acquired at a later period of youth, it was found -impossible by any degree of exertion to retrieve the moments misspent -or wasted in boyhood. At the same time there was one advantage derived -from his unstudious inclinations; they urged him to be much abroad -in the open air, where he amused himself with running, leaping, and -swimming, in which last accomplishment he was particularly skilled, and -on one occasion had the satisfaction of saving by this means the life -of his younger brother, who was seized by the cramp while bathing in -the moat which surrounded his father’s house. - -In the spring of 1786, through the kindness of Dr. Beadon, afterward -Bishop of Bath and Wells, Clarke obtained the office of chapel clerk -at Jesus College, Cambridge, whither he removed about the Easter of -the above year. Next year he sustained the heavy calamity to lose a -pious, beneficent, affectionate father, by which misfortune, young and -inexperienced as he was, without a profession, and with few prospects -of advancement, he was entirely thrown upon his own resources, his -remaining parent not possessing the means of aiding him with aught -beyond her prayers. Fortunately his deceased father had, instead of -wealth, bequeathed to his family a more valuable inheritance; a name -revered for sanctity, and a number of noble-minded friends, who not -only provided for the immediate necessities of its several members, -but continued to watch over their progress, and on many important -occasions to advance their interests in after-life. Nevertheless, -Clarke had to contend with numerous difficulties. “Soon after the death -of their father,” says Mr. Otter, “the two elder sons returned to -college; and Edward, having now acquired a melancholy title to one of -the scholarships of the society of Jesus College, founded by Sir Tobias -Rustat, for the benefit of clergymen’s orphans, was elected a scholar -on this foundation immediately upon his return. The emoluments of his -scholarship, joined to those of an exhibition from Tunbridge school, -and the profits of his chapel clerk’s place, amounting in the whole -to less than 90_l._ a year, were his principal, indeed it is believed -his only resources during his residence at college; and, however well -they may have been husbanded, it must be evident that, even in those -times of comparative moderation in expense, they could not have been -sufficient for his support, especially when it is understood that -he was naturally liberal to a fault. It does not appear, however, -that he derived during this time any pecuniary assistance from his -father’s friends; and as there is the strongest reason to believe that -he faithfully adhered to the promise he had made to his mother, that -he would never draw upon her slender resources for his support, it -may excite some curiosity to know by what means the deficiency was -supplied. The fact is, that he was materially assisted in providing for -his college expenses by the liberality of his tutor, Mr. Plampin, who, -being acquainted with his circumstances, suffered his bills to remain -in arrear; and they were afterward discharged from the first profits he -derived from his private pupils.” - -The indolent inactivity which had marked his school studies did not -desert him at college. He seems, in fact, to have been disgusted with -the system of education pursued at Cambridge, caring nothing for -mathematics, which were there regarded as all in all, and finding -among the other mental pursuits of the place nothing whatever to -kindle the ardour of his ambitious mind. Still the desire of fame, -without which man never performed any thing great, began gradually -to manifest itself in his character both to himself and others. -Exceedingly uncertain as to the mode, he yet determined to acquire -in one way or another a reputation in literature; and while many of -those around him were descanting complacently upon his failings, and -the consequent backwardness of his acquirements, he silently felt the -sting which was so soon to goad him on to a destiny more brilliant than -his compassionate comrades ever dreamed of. His favourite studies, -however, such as they were, he seems to have pursued with considerable -eagerness; and by degrees his taste, after wavering for some time, -settled definitively on literature. - -In the spring of 1790 Clarke obtained, through the recommendation of -Dr. Beadon, then Bishop of Gloucester, the office of private tutor to -the honourable Henry Tufton, nephew to the Duke of Dorset. The place -selected for his residence with his pupil, says Mr. Otter, was a large -house belonging to Lord Thanet, inhabited at that time only by one or -two servants, situated in a wild and secluded part of the county of -Kent, and cut off, as well by distance as bad roads, from all cheerful -and improving society; a residence suitable enough to a nobleman with a -large establishment and a wide circle of friends, but the last place, -one would have thought, to improve and polish a young man of family -just entering into active life. His pupil, moreover, had conceived -a dislike for study and for tutors of every kind, which promised to -enhance the tedium of a life spent in such a scene. But Clarke, who -probably sympathized with the young man’s aversion from intellectual -task-work, very quickly succeeded by his gay, lively, insinuating -manners in winning his confidence, and, apparently, in convincing him -that a certain degree of knowledge might be useful, even to a man of -his rank. This agreeable result, which seems to have been somewhat -unexpected, so raised our incipient traveller in the estimation of -the Duke of Dorset, that the engagement, which appears to have been -at first for nine months only, was prolonged another year, the latter -part of which was occupied in making with his pupil the tour of Great -Britain. Of these domestic travels he on his return published the -history; but the performance appears to have been hastily and slovenly -written, and, as has been the fate of many other youthful works, to -have been severely judged by the mature author, jealous of his fame, -and averse from exhibiting to the public the nakedness of his unformed -mind. - -Shortly after the conclusion of this tour he accompanied his pupil -in a little excursion to Calais, when he enjoyed the satisfaction, -which none but a traveller can appreciate, of treading for the first -time on foreign ground. In 1792 he was fortunate enough to obtain an -engagement to travel with Lord Berwick, whom he had known at college, -and in the autumn of that year set out in company with that young -nobleman, through Germany and Switzerland into Italy. He was now in the -position for which nature had originally designed him. “An unbounded -love of travel,” says he, “influenced me at a very early period of my -life. It was conceived in infancy, and I shall carry it with me to the -grave. When I reflect upon the speculations of my youth, I am at a -loss to account for a passion which, predominating over every motive -of interest and every tie of affection, urges me to press forward and -to pursue inquiry, even in the bosoms of the ocean and the desert. -Sometimes, in the dreams of fancy, I am weak enough to imagine that the -map of the world was painted in the awning of my cradle, and that my -nurse chanted the wanderings of pilgrims in her legendary lullabies.” -This was the spirit which urged the Marco Polos, the Chardins, and -the Bruces to undertake their illustrious journeys; and if Clarke was -compelled by circumstances to confine his researches to less remote and -better known countries, he exhibited in his rambles through these a -kindred enthusiasm, and similar devotion and energy. - -Clarke and his companion having passed the Alps, which, however -frequently seen, still maintain their rank among the most sublime -objects in nature, descended into Italy, visited Turin and Rome, and -then proceeded to Naples, in which city and its environs they remained -nearly two years. In the summer of 1793 there was, as is well known, an -eruption of Mount Vesuvius, which our traveller, now an inhabitant of -Naples, enjoyed ample opportunities of visiting. And here a striking -manifestation of the daring intrepidity of the English occurred: for -not only Clarke himself, part of whose business as a traveller it -was to familiarize himself with danger, but numbers of other English -gentlemen, and even ladies, ascended to the mouth of the burning crater -and the sources of lava-streams in an active state for mere amusement; -where, on one occasion, a lady narrowly escaped death from a large -stone from the volcano, which flew by her like a wheel. At another time -the whole party were menaced with the fate of the elder Pliny. It was -in the month of February. “I found the crater in a very active state,” -says Clarke, “throwing out volleys of immense stones transparent with -vitrification, and such showers of ashes involved in thick sulphurous -clouds as rendered any approach to it extremely dangerous. We ascended -as near as possible, and then crossing over to the lava attempted -to coast it up to its source. This we soon found was impossible, -for an unfortunate wind blew all the smoke of the lava hot upon us, -attended at the same time with such a thick mist of minute ashes from -the crater, and such fumes of sulphur, that we were in danger of -being suffocated. In this perplexity I had recourse to an expedient -recommended by Sir W. Hamilton, and proposed immediately crossing -the current of liquid lava to gain the windward side of it; but felt -some fears, owing to the very liquid appearance the lava there had so -near its source. All my companions were against the scheme, and while -we stood deliberating, immense fragments of stone and huge volcanic -bombs that had been cast out by the crater, but which the smoke had -prevented us from observing, fell thick about us, and rolled by with a -velocity that would have crushed any of us, had we been in the way. I -found we must either leave our present spot, or expect instant death; -therefore, covering my face with my hat, I rushed upon the lava and -crossed over safely to the other side, having my boots only a little -burnt and my hands scorched. Not one of my companions, however, would -stir, nor could any persuasion of mine avail in getting a single guide -over to me. I then saw clearly the whole of the scene, and expected -my friends would every moment be sacrificed to their own imprudence -and want of courage, as the stones from the crater fell continually -around them, and vast rocks of lava bounded by them with great force. -At last I had the satisfaction of seeing them retire, leaving me -entirely alone. I begged hard for a torch to be thrown over to me, that -I might not be lost when the night came on. It was then that André, one -of the ciceroni of Resina, after being promised a bribe, ran over to -me, and brought with him a bottle of wine and a torch. We had coasted -the lava, ascending for some time, when looking back I perceived my -companions endeavouring to cross the lava lower down, where the stream -was narrower. In doing this they found themselves insulated, as it -were, and surrounded by two different rivers of liquid fire. They -immediately pressed forward, being terribly scorched by both currents, -and ran to the side where I was; in doing which one of the guides fell -into the middle of the red-hot lava, but met with no other injury than -having his hands and face burnt, and losing at the same time a bottle -of vin de grave, which was broken in the fall, and which proved a very -unpleasant loss to us, being ready to faint with excessive thirst, -fatigue, and heat. Having once more rallied my forces, I proceeded on, -and in about half an hour I gained the chasm through which the lava had -opened itself a passage out of the mountain. To describe this sight is -utterly beyond all human ability. My companions, who were with me then, -shared in the astonishment it produced; and the sensations they felt in -concert with me were such as can be obliterated only with our lives. -All I had seen of volcanic phenomena before did not lead me to expect -such a spectacle as I then beheld. I had seen the vast rivers of lava -which descended into the plains below, and carried ruin and devastation -with them; but they resembled a vast heap of cinders on the scoriæ of -an iron foundry, rolling slowly along, and falling with a rattling -noise over one another. Here a vast arched chasm presented itself in -the side of the mountain, from which rushed with the velocity of a -flood the clear vivid torrent of lava in perfect fusion, and totally -unconnected with any other matter that was not in a state of complete -solution, unattended by any scoriæ on its surface, or gross materials -of an insolvent nature; but flowing with the translucency of honey, in -regular channels cut finer than art can imitate, and glowing with all -the splendour of the sun.” - -In the July of the same year our traveller viewed Vesuvius under -another aspect, when soft, tranquil beauty had succeeded to terrific -sublimity. “While we were at tea in the Albergo Reale,” says he, “such -a scene presented itself as every one agreed was beyond any thing of -that kind they had ever seen before. It was caused by the moon, which -suddenly rose behind the convent on Vesuvius; at first a small bright -line silvering all the clouds, and then a full orb which threw a blaze -of light across the sea, through which the vessels passed and re-passed -in a most beautiful manner. At the same time the lava, of a different -hue, spread its warm tint upon all the objects near it, and threw a -red line across the bay, directly parallel to the reflection of the -moon’s rays. It was one of those scenes which one dwells upon with -regret, because one feels the impossibility of retaining the impression -it affords. It remains in the memory, but then all its outlines and -its colours are so faintly touched, that the beauty of the spectacle -fades away with the landscape; which, when covered by the clouds of the -night, and veiled in darkness, can never be revived by the pencil, the -pen, or by any recourse to the traces it has left upon the mind.” - -In the autumn of 1793 Clarke received from Lord Berwick a proposal that -he should accompany him to Egypt and the Holy Land, with which our -traveller, whose secret wishes had long pointed that way, immediately -closed. While preparations were making for the journey, Lord Berwick -suddenly recollected that some living, to which he was to present his -brother, might fall vacant during his absence, and be lost to his -family. He determined, therefore, on sending an express to England; and -when he had hired his courier, Clarke, who perhaps felt the want of -violent exercise, offered to accompany the man, that no time might be -lost. He accordingly set out for England, and having remained two or -three days in London to execute the commission with which he had been -intrusted, he hurried down to Shropshire, and arranged the business -which had brought him to England. This being accomplished, he returned -to London, where, to his infinite surprise and mortification, he found -a letter from Lord Berwick, informing him that the expedition to Egypt -had been postponed or abandoned. His engagement with this nobleman, -however, had not yet expired. He therefore, after a short stay in -England, hastened back to Italy, from whence he finally returned in the -summer of 1794. - -Clarke now spent some time with his mother and family at Uckfield, and -in the autumn of the same year undertook, at the recommendation of the -Bishop of St. Asaph, the care of Sir Thomas Mostyn, a youth of about -seventeen. This engagement continued about a year, during which period -he resided with his pupil in Wales, where he became known to Pennant, -with whom he afterward maintained a correspondence. When this connexion -had, from some unexplained causes, ceased to exist, our traveller -undertook a small periodical work called “Le Rêveur,” which, when -twenty-nine numbers had been published without success, was judiciously -discontinued, and sunk so completely into oblivion that not a single -copy, it is believed, could now be found. - -In the autumn of 1796 Clarke entered into an engagement with the family -of Lord Uxbridge, which, under whatever auspices begun, was highly -beneficial to himself and satisfactory to his employers. The youth -first placed under his care, delicate and feeble in constitution, -soon fell a prey to disease; but the next youngest son of the family, -the honourable Berkeley Paget, succeeded his brother; and with him, -in the summer and autumn of 1797, our traveller made the tour of -Scotland. This was in every respect an agreeable and fortunate journey -for our traveller, who not only enjoyed the scenery, wild, varied, -and beautiful, which the north of England and many parts of Scotland -afford, but secured in his pupil a powerful friend, who, so long as our -traveller lived, promoted his interests, and when his life had closed, -continued the same benevolent regard to his family. - -On the termination of his connexion with Mr. Paget, who was now sent -to Oxford, Clarke retired to Uckfield, where, for a time, he seemed -entirely immersed in the pleasures of field-sports. His devotion -to this species of amusement, however, was destined to be of short -duration. A young gentleman of Sussex, whose education had been very -much neglected, succeeded about this time to a considerable estate, -upon which he intimated his desire of placing himself for three -years under the guidance and instruction of our traveller, first at -Cambridge, and afterward during a long and extensive tour upon the -Continent. The pecuniary part of the proposal was very liberal, says -Mr. Otter, and the plan was entered upon without delay. The traveller -and his pupil remained a whole year at Cambridge, during which the -former, who fully understood the advantages of knowledge, and had been -hitherto prevented by his wandering life from pursuing any regular -course of study, profited quite as much as the latter. - -The preliminary portion of their studies being over, Clarke and his -pupil began to prepare for their travels. Two other individuals were -at first associated with them, Professor Malthus, author of the -celebrated treatise on population, and the Rev. Mr. Otter, afterward -the biographer of our traveller. The party set out from Cambridge on -the 20th May, 1799, and arrived at Hamburgh on the 25th. Here they -made but a short stay before they set out for Copenhagen, and from -thence, by way of Stockholm, across the whole of Sweden to Tornea, on -the Gulf of Bothnia. Malthus and Otter left them at the Wener Lake. -Clarke, with all the enthusiasm of a genuine traveller, could never -imagine he had carried his researches sufficiently far; but, having -reached the 66th degree of northern latitude, declared he would not -return until he should have snuffed the polar air. His pupil, Cripps, -seems to have shared largely in his locomotive propensity, and in the -courage which prompts to indulge it. They therefore proceeded towards -the polar regions together; but having reached Enontakis, in latitude -68° 30´ 30´´ north, our traveller, who had previously been seized by a -severe fit of illness, was constrained to abandon the polar expedition -and shape his course towards the south. Writing from Enontakis to his -mother, “We have found,” says he, “the cottage of a priest in this -remote corner of the world, and have been snug with him a few days. -Yesterday I launched a balloon eighteen feet in height, which I had -made to attract the natives. You may guess their astonishment when they -saw it rise from the earth. - -“Is it not famous to be here within the frigid zone, more than two -degrees within the arctic, and nearer to the pole than the most -northern shores of Iceland? For a long time darkness has been a -stranger to us. The sun, as yet, passes not below the horizon, but he -dips his crimson visage behind a mountain to the north. This mountain -we ascended, and had the satisfaction to see him make his courtesy -without setting. At midnight the priest of this place lights his pipe -during three weeks in the year by means of a burning-glass from the -sun’s rays.” - -Having, for the reason above stated, given up the design of visiting -the polar regions, they returned to Tornea, and thence proceeded -through Sweden and Norway; which latter country (probably for the same -reason which made Pope of the opinion of the last author he read) he -preferred for sublimity of scenery to Switzerland. They then entered -Russia, and arrived at Petersburg on the 26th of January, 1800. Clarke, -it is well known, entertained a very mean opinion of the Russians; -but, judging from the testimony of Bishop Heber--a calmer and more -dispassionate man--as well as from that of many other travellers, it -would appear that his judgment was neither rash nor ill founded. “We -have been here five days,” says he. “Our servants were taken from us -at the frontiers, and much difficulty had we with the Russian thieves -as we came along. Long accustomed to Swedish honesty it is difficult -for us to assume all at once a system of suspicion and caution: the -consequence of this is that they remove all the moveables out of their -way. I wish much to like the Russians, but those who govern them will -take care I never shall. This place, were it not for its magnificence, -would be insufferable. We silently mourn when we remember Sweden. As -for our harps there are no trees to hang them upon; nevertheless we sit -down by the waters of Babylon and weep. They open all the letters, and -therefore there is something for them to chew upon. More I dare not -add; perhaps your experience will supply the rest.” - -To this, if we add his picture of the execrable despot who then -governed Russia, enough will have been said of his experience at -Petersburg. “It is impossible,” he writes, “to say what will be the end -of things here, or whether the emperor is more of a madman, a fool, a -knave, or a tyrant. If I were to relate the ravings, the follies, the -villanies, the cruelties of that detestable beast, I should never reach -the end of my letter. Certainly things cannot long go on as they do -now. The other day the soldiers by his order cudgelled a gentleman in -the street because the cock of his hat was not in a line with his nose. -He has sent the Prince of Condé’s army to the right-about, which is -hushed up, and it is to appear that they are ceded to Great Britain. He -refuses passports even to ambassadors for their couriers. One is not -safe a moment. It is not enough to act by rule, you must regulate your -features to the whims of a police officer. If you frown in the street -you will be taken up.” - -From Petersburg they proceeded in sledges to Moscow, which, like -most oriental cities, seemed all splendour from a distant view, -but shrunk upon their entering it into a miserable collection of -hovels, interspersed with a few grotesque churches and tawdry -palaces. This place, which is too well known to require me to dwell -much upon its appearance, they quitted to proceed to the Crimea. -Arriving at Taganrog, on the Sea of Azov, Clarke amused himself -with swimming in the Don, the ancient Tanais, between Europe and -Asia, and in thinking of the vast extent of country over which his -good fortune had already carried him, and of the far more glorious -scenes--Palestine--Egypt--Greece--which yet lay in his route. “Do, for -God’s sake imagine,” says he in a letter to a friend, “what I must feel -in the prospect of treading the plains of Troy!--Tears of joy stream -from my eyes while I write.” To a person of such a frame of mind--and -no others should ever leave their firesides--travelling, next to the -performance of virtuous actions, affords the most exquisite pleasure -upon earth. The imagination, impregnated by a classical education with -glowing ideas of what certain scenes once were, invests them with -unearthly splendour, of which no experience can ever afterward divest -them. - -Upon their arriving at Achmedshid in the Crimea, they remained some -time in the house of Professor Pallas, who entertained them in so -hospitable a manner that Clarke, who spoke of men as he found them, -could not forbear imparting to his friends at home the warm gratitude -of his heart. “It is with him we now live,” says he, “till the vessel -is ready to sail for Constantinople; and how can I express his kindness -to me? He has all the tenderness of a father to us both. Every thing -in his house he makes our own. He received me worn down with fatigue -and ill of a tertian fever. Mrs. Pallas nursed me, and he cured me, and -then loaded me with all sorts of presents; books, drawings, insects, -plants, minerals, &c. The advantage of conversing with such a man is -worth the whole journey from England, not considering the excellent -qualities of his heart. Here we are in quite an elegant English house; -and if you knew the comfort of lying down in a clean bed after passing -months without taking off your clothes in deserts and among savages, -you would know the comfort we feel. The vessel is at Kosloff, distant -forty miles; and when we leave the Crimea Mr. and Mrs. Pallas and their -daughter, who has been married since we were in the house to a general -officer, go with us to Kosloff; and will dine with us on board the day -we sail. They prepare all our provisions for the voyage.” - -The whole of their stay in Russia was rendered so exceedingly -disagreeable--first by the savage tyranny of the emperor, and secondly -by the evil character of his subjects, which, as being everywhere felt, -was infinitely more annoying--that our traveller regarded himself among -a civilized and hospitable people when he reached Constantinople. In -fact, he found himself in a sort of English society which, congregating -together at the palace of the embassy, engaged in the same round of -amusements which would have occupied them in London. The time which -these agreeable occupations left him was employed in searching for -and examining Greek medals, and in viewing such curiosities as were -to be found in Constantinople; among other things the interior of -the seraglio, where no Frank, he says, had before set his foot. He -moreover found time to peruse many of the various publications called -forth by the Bryant controversy respecting the existence of Troy; and -so unsteady was his faith on this point, that, after dipping a little -into the subject, he began to imagine something like a new theory to -explain the manner in which we are required to believe Homer might -have invented the whole groundwork of the Iliad! However, upon shortly -afterward arriving on the spot, this flimsy vagary vanished. Jacob -Bryant and his followers were found to be the pettifogging skeptics -which they have always been considered by sensible men. “The Plain -of Troy now,” exclaims our traveller, “offers every fact you want; -there is nothing doubtful. No argument will stand an instant[3] in -opposition to the test of inquiry upon the spot; penetrating into -the mountains behind the Acropolis the proofs grow more numerous as -you advance, till at length the discussion becomes absurd, and the -nonsense of Bryantism so ridiculous that his warmest partisans would be -ashamed to acknowledge they had ever assented for an instant to such -contemptible blasphemy upon the most sacred records of history.” - -[3] An intaglio purchased by Clarke at Constantinople is exceedingly -remarkable, as throwing light upon the original story of Æneas, before -it had been deformed by Virgil or Ovid. “There are poor Turks at -Constantinople, whose business it is to wash the mud of the common -sewers of the city, and the sand of the shore. These people found a -small onyx, with an antique intaglio of most excellent workmanship, -representing Æneas flying from the city, leading his boy by the hand, -and bearing on his shoulders (who do you suppose?)--not his father--for -in that case the subject might have been borrowed from Virgil or -Ovid--but--his wife, with the Penates in her lap; and so wonderfully -wrought that these three figures are brought into a gem of the smallest -size, and wings are added to the feet of Æneas, - - ‘Pedibus timor addidit alas!’ - -to express by symbols of the most explicit nature the story and the -situation of the hero. Thus it is proved that a tradition, founded -neither on the works of Homer nor the Greek historians (and perhaps -unknown to Virgil and the Roman poets, who always borrowed their -stories from such records as were afforded by the works of ancient -artists), existed among the ancients in the remotest periods, -respecting the war of Troy. The authenticity of this invaluable -little relic, the light it strews on ancient history, its beauty, and -the remarkable coincidence of the spot on which it was found, with -the locality of the subject it illustrates, interested so much the -late Swedish minister, Mr. Heidensham, and other antiquarians of the -first talents in this part of the world, that I have given it a very -considerable part of this letter, hoping it will not be indifferent to -you.” - -From the Troad Clarke proceeded to Rhodes, the Gulf of Glaucus, on the -coast of Asia Minor, and thence by sea to Egypt, where the English -fleet was then lying in Aboukir Bay. He did not, however, see much of -Egypt on this occasion, for the country was still in the possession -of the French; and therefore, after a short visit to Rosetta, he -sailed for Cyprus, and on returning from this voyage proceeded in the -Romulus to Palestine. Here he visited Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, -and the Lake of Genesareth; near which he enjoyed an opportunity of -conversing with a party of Druses. Almost every traveller in Syria has -given us some new particulars respecting this curious people. “They -are,” says Clarke, “the most extraordinary people on earth; singular -in the simplicity of their lives by their strict integrity and virtue. -They only eat what they earn by their own labour, and preserve at -this moment the superstitions brought by the Israelites out of Egypt. -What will be your surprise to learn that every Thursday they elevate -the molten calf, before which they prostrate themselves, and having -paid their adoration, each man selects among the women present the -wife he likes best, with whom the ceremony ends. The calf is of gold, -silver, or bronze. This is exactly that worship at which Moses was so -incensed in descending from Mount Sinai. The cow was the Venus of the -Egyptians, and of course the calf a personification of animal desire; -a Cupid before which the sacrifices so offensive to Moses were held. -For it is related they set up a molten calf, which Aaron had made from -the earrings of the Israelite women; before which similar sacrifices -were made. And certainly the Druses on Mount Lebanon are a detachment -of the posterity of those Israelites who are so often represented in -Scripture as deserters from the true faith, falling back into the old -superstitions and pagan worship of the country from whence they came. -I could not visit Mount Lebanon; but I took every method necessary to -ascertain the truth of this relation; and I send it you as one of the -highest antiquities and most curious relics of remote ages which has -yet been found upon earth.” - -His stay in Palestine was exceedingly short, just sufficient to enable -him to say he had looked at it. He then returned to Aboukir Bay, where -his brother was commander of an English ship; which now, on the 6th of -August, 1801, swarmed with French prisoners like a beehive. When the -road to Cairo was rendered practicable by the defeat of the French, -our traveller proceeded to that city, where the most interesting -objects existing were the beautiful young women who had been torn by -the French soldiers from the harems of the bey; and then, when they -evacuated the country, deserted and abandoned to their fate. Here -he procured a complete copy of the “Arabian Nights,” which, with -many other works that were so many sealed books to him, gave rise to -much unavailing regret that he had bestowed little or no attention -on the Arabic language. The Pyramids he of course admired. “Without -hyperbole,” says he, “they are immense mountains; and when clouds cast -shadows over their white sides they are seen passing as upon the summit -of the Alps.” From the pinnacle of the loftiest he dated one of his -letters to England, all of which are filled with lively dashing gossip, -accompanied with rash, headlong, unphilosophical decisions, which the -reflections of a moment, perhaps, might have served to dissipate. The -news of the capitulation of Alexandria induced him to hurry back to -the coast. He found the French troops still in the city, but preparing -to embark with all speed. Great disputes, he says, had already arisen -between General Hutchinson and Menou respecting the antiquities and -collections of natural history which had been made by the French; the -former claiming them as public, and the latter refusing them as private -property. The part performed by Clarke himself in this affair he shall -relate in his own words:--“When I arrived in the British camp, General -Hutchinson informed me that he had already stipulated for the stone in -question (the Rosetta marble), and asked me whether I thought the other -literary treasures were sufficiently national to be included in his -demands. You may be sure I urged all the arguments I could muster to -justify the proceeding; and it is clear they are not private property. -General Hutchinson sent me to Menou, and charged me to discover -what national property of that kind was in the hands of the French. -Hamilton, Lord Elgin’s secretary, had gone the same morning about an -hour before with Colonel Turner of the Antiquarian Society about the -Hieroglyphic Table. I showed my pass at the gates, and was admitted. -The streets and public places were filled with the French troops, in -desperate bad-humour. Our proposals were made known, and backed with a -menace from the British general that he would break the capitulation -if the proposals were not acceded to. The whole corps of sçavans and -engineers beset Menou, and the poor old fellow, what with us and them, -was completely hunted. We have been now at this work since Thursday -the 11th, and I believe have succeeded. We found much more in their -possession than was suspected or imagined. Pointers would not range -better for game than we have done for statues, sarcophagi, maps, MSS., -drawings, plans, charts, botany, stuffed birds, animals, dried fishes, -&c. Savigny, who has been years in forming the beautiful collection -of natural history for the republic, is in despair. Therefore we -represented to General Hutchinson, that it would be the best plan to -send him to England also, as the most proper person to take care of the -collection, and to publish its description if necessary.” - -No man, I suppose, who has passed beyond the frontiers of his own -country, can fail to have experienced frequent depressions of spirit, -during which he has probably repented him of his wandering habits. -But Clarke was like a weathercock, now pointing to the east, now to -the west. In the island of Zea, off the promontory of Sunium, he -repented heartily of having undertaken the voyage to Greece. “Danger, -fatigue, disease, filth, treachery, thirst, hunger, storms, rocks, -assassins,--these,” he exclaims, “are the realities which a traveller -in Greece meets with!” Anon, at Athens, he writes, “We have been here -three days; we sailed into the port of the Piræus after sunset on the -28th. The little voyage from Cape Sunium to Athens is one of the most -interesting I ever made. The height of the mountains brings the most -distant objects into the view, and you are surrounded by beauty and -grandeur. The sailors and pilots still give to every thing its ancient -name, with only a little difference in the pronunciation. They show you -as you sail along, Ægina and Salamis, Mount Hymettus and Athens, and -Megara, and the mountains of Corinth. The picture is the same as it was -in the earliest ages of Greece. The Acropolis rises to view as if it -were in its most perfect state: the temples and buildings seem entire; -for the eye, in the Saronic Gulf, does not distinguish the injuries -which the buildings have suffered, and nature, of course, is the same -now as she was in the days of Themistocles. I cannot tell you what -sensations I felt: the successions were so rapid I knew not whether to -laugh or to cry,--sometimes I did both. - -“Our happiness is complete, we have forgotten all our disasters, and I -have half a mind to blot out all I have written in the first part of -this letter. We are in the most comfortable house imaginable, with a -good widow and her daughter. You do not know Lusieri. He was my friend -in Italy many years ago. Think what a joy to find him here, presiding -over the troop of artists, architects, sculptors, and excavators that -Lord Elgin has sent here to work for him. He is the most celebrated -artist at present in the world. Pericles would have deified him. He -attends us everywhere, and Pausanias himself would not have made a -better cicerone. - -“Athens exceeds all that ever has been written or painted from it. -I know not how to give an idea of it; because, having never seen -any thing like it, I must become more familiar with so much majesty -before I can describe it. I am no longer to lament the voyage I lost -with Lord Berwick; because it is exactly that which a man should see -_last_ in his travels. It is even with joy I consider it is perhaps -the end of all my admiration. We are lucky in the time of our being -here. The popularity of the English name gives us access to many things -which strangers before were prohibited from visiting, and the great -excavations that are going on discover daily some hidden treasures. -Rome is almost as insignificant in comparison with Athens as London -with Rome; and one regrets the consciousness that no probable union of -circumstances will ever again carry the effects of human labour to the -degree of perfection they have attained here.” - -No one after this will accuse Clarke of being deficient in enthusiasm; -but this is not all. On reaching the summit of Parnassus, he -bursts forth into expressions of admiration, which, if they were -not justified by the sublime beauty of the scenes themselves, -or by the historical glory with which they must be eternally -associated, would be absurd. “It is necessary to forget all that -has preceded--all the travels of my life--all I ever imagined--all -I ever saw! Asia--Egypt--the Isles--Italy--the Alps--whatever you -will! Greece surpasses all! Stupendous in its ruins! Awful in its -mountains!--captivating in its vales--bewitching in its climate. -Nothing ever equalled it--no pen can describe it--no pencil can portray -it! - -“I know not when we shall get to Constantinople. We are as yet only -three days’ distance from Athens; and here we sit on the top of -Parnassus, in a little sty, full of smoke, after wandering for a -fortnight in Attica, Bœotia, and Phocis. We have been in every spot -celebrated in ancient story--in fields of slaughter, and in groves of -song. I shall grow old in telling you the wonders of this country. -Marathon, Thebes, Platæa, Leuctra, Thespia, Mount Helicon, the grove -of the Muses, the cave of Trophonius, Cheronea, Orchomene, Delphi, the -Castalian fountain, Parnassus; we have paid our vows in all! But what -is most remarkable, in Greece there is hardly a spot which hath been -particularly dignified that is not also adorned by the most singular -beauties of nature. Independently of its history, each particular -object is interesting.” - -From Athens they proceeded by land to Constantinople through ancient -Thrace, by a route partly trodden by Pococke. After a short stay at -this city, they directed their course homewards through Roumelia, -Austria, Germany, and France, and arrived in England after an absence -of upwards of three years. Cripps now returned for a short period -to his family, and Clarke, who had by this time acquired an immense -reputation, took up his residence at Cambridge, where, with very -few intervals of absence, he remained nearly twenty years. He was -very soon rejoined by his pupil, the completing of whose education, -together with the arranging of his curiosities and antiquities, and the -composition of his travels, fully occupied his leisure for some time. -A statue of Ceres which our traveller had dug up, and sent home from -Greece, was presented, on his return, to the university; in consequence -of which the degree of LL.D. was conferred upon Clarke, and that of -M.A. upon his companion. - -In 1805 Dr. Clarke published a “Dissertation on the Sarcophagus in the -British Museum,” which, though necessarily neglected by the public, -is said to have given considerable satisfaction to the learned, and -procured for its author many valuable acquaintances. Another and a -very different subject employed his mind throughout a great part of -the following year. This was no less a thing than matrimony; which, -as soon as the idea got footing in his brain, occupied his ardent -imagination to the exclusion of every thing else. His suit, however, -was successful. The lady of his choice became his wife; and to increase -this piece of good fortune, two livings, for he had entered into -orders, were presented him by his friends, the one shortly before, -and the other immediately after his marriage. He now occupied himself -with lectures on mineralogy, which were delivered at the university to -crowded audiences, and were a source of considerable profit. This, as -he expected, led to his appointment as professor of mineralogy; and -“thus,” says Mr. Otter, “were his most sanguine wishes crowned with -success; and thus were his spirit and perseverance rewarded with one of -the rarest and highest honours which the university could bestow.” - -Dr. Clarke now began to think of turning the treasures he had picked up -in his travels to account; he sold his MSS. to the Bodleian Library at -Oxford for 1000_l._, and his Greek coins to Mr. Payne Knight for 100 -guineas. The publication of his travels next followed, and produced him -a clear sum of 6595_l._ In the year 1814 his old passion for travelling -revived, and an expedition was projected into the Grecian Archipelago -for the purpose of collecting antiquities, manuscripts, &c. But he was -overruled by his friend, who probably believed that his constitution -was now unequal to the fatigue which would be the inevitable attendant -on such a mission. To this scheme he would appear to have been urged by -the extravagant manner in which he had for some time lived; but a more -practicable, or at least a more certain mode of recovering from the -effects of this false step presented itself; which was no other than -reducing his expenses, and living within his income. This he had the -courage to undertake and execute; and from that day forward seems to -have led the life of a sensible man. His passion now took a new turn, -and he was wholly absorbed by chymistry. In September, 1816, he wrote -as follows to a friend: “I sacrificed the whole month of August to -chymistry. Oh how I did work! It was delightful play to me, and I stuck -to it day and night. At last, having blown off both my eyebrows and -eyelashes, and nearly blown out both my eyes, I ended with a bang that -shook all the houses round my lecture-room. The Cambridge paper has -told you the result of all this alchymy, for I have actually decomposed -the earths, and obtained them in a metallic form.” - -I adopt from Mr. Otter the following account of Clarke’s death. It was -hastened, if not entirely caused, by continued high-wrought mental -excitement. He was carried to town for advice by Sir William and Lady -Rush, where he was attended by Sir Astley Cooper, Dr. Bailey, and Dr. -Scudamore, but their efforts to save him were in vain; the rest of -his life, about a fortnight, over which a veil will soon be drawn, -was like a feverish dream after a day of strong excitement, when the -same ideas chase each other through the mind in a perpetual round, -and baffle every attempt to banish them. Nothing seemed to occupy his -attention but the syllabus of his lectures, and the details of the -operations he had just finished; nor could there exist to his friends -a stronger proof that all control over his mind was gone, and that the -ascendency of such thoughts at a season when the devotion so natural -to him, and of late so strikingly exhibited under circumstances far -less trying, would, in a sounder state, have been the prime, if not -the only, mover of his soul. One lucid interval there was, in which, -to judge from the subject and the manner of his conversation, he had -the command of his thoughts, as well as a sense of his danger; for in -the presence of Lieut. Chappel and Mr. Cripps, he pronounced a very -pathetic eulogium on Mrs. Clarke, and recommended her earnestly to the -care of those about him; but when the currents of his thoughts seemed -running fast towards those pious contemplations on which they would -naturally have rested, his mind suddenly relapsed into the power of its -former occupants, from which it never more was free. At times, indeed, -gleams of his former kindness and intelligence would mingle with the -wildness of his delirium, in a manner the most striking and affecting; -and then, even his incoherences, to use his own thoughts respecting -another person who had finished his race shortly before him, was as -the wreck of some beautiful decayed structure, when all its goodly -ornaments and stately pillars fall in promiscuous ruin. He died on -Saturday, the 9th of March, and was buried in Jesus College chapel on -the 18th of the same month. - - - - -FRANCOIS LE VAILLANT. - -Born 1753.--Died 1824. - - -In commencing the life of this traveller I experience some apprehension -that the interest of the narrative may suffer in my hands; since his -exploits, as Sallust observes of those of the Athenians, appear to -acquire much of their importance from the peculiar eloquence with which -they are described. The style of Le Vaillant, though regarded by many -as declamatory and negligent, is in fact so graceful, natural, and full -of vivacity,--his sentiments are so warm,--his ideas, whether right or -wrong, so peculiarly his own, that, whether he desires to interest you -in the fate of his friends or of his cattle, of his collections or of -his cocks and hens, the result is invariably the same: he irresistibly -inspires you with feelings like his own, and for the moment compels -you, in spite of yourself, to adopt his views and opinions. I cannot, -however, flatter myself with the hope of equal success. Things really -trifling in themselves might, I am afraid, continue to appear so -when dressed in my plain style; and it therefore only remains for me -to select, to the best of my judgment, such actions and events as -really deserve to be remembered, and must always, with whatever degree -of simplicity they may be described, command a certain degree of -attention. The scene of this writer’s adventures had in many instances -all the charm of novelty when his travels first appeared. No European -had preceded him in his route. He could form no conjecture respecting -the nature of the objects with which the morrow was to bring him -acquainted, and at every step experienced the - - Novos decerpere flores. - -In all the pleasures to be derived from pursuing an untrodden path, -from penetrating into an unknown world; for such then was Africa, -and such, in a great measure, it still continues--from beholding new -species of birds and animals which his enthusiasm and perseverance -were about to make known to mankind;--in all these pleasures, I say, -he skilfully makes his readers his associates, and thus, apparently -without effort, accomplishes the intention of the most consummate -rhetorical art, the object of which is only to lead the imagination -captive by the allurements of pleasure, or to urge it along by the keen -sting of curiosity. - -François le Vaillant was born in 1753, at Paramaribo, in Dutch Guiana, -where his father, a rich merchant, originally from Metz, filled the -office of consul. Even while a child the tastes and habits of his -parents inspired him with a partiality for a wandering life, and for -collections of objects of natural history, which quickly generated -another passion, the passion for hunting; and this amusement, -unphilosophical as it may seem, not only occupied his boyish days, in -which man is cruel from thoughtlessness, but his riper and declining -years, when suffering and calamity might have taught him to respect the -lives even of the inferior animals. - -His father, actuated by the love of science, or by the vanity of -forming a collection, employed much of the leisure which he enjoyed in -travelling through the less frequented parts of the colony, accompanied -by his wife and son; and to this circumstance may be attributed Le -Vaillant’s twofold passion for travelling and for natural history. -The desire of possessing a cabinet of his own soon arose. Birds and -beasts being as yet beyond his reach, he commenced with caterpillars, -butterflies, and other insects; but his ambition increasing with his -acquisitions, he at length armed himself with the Indian sarbacan and -bow, and before he had reached his tenth year had slain innumerable -birds. - -In 1763 he proceeded with his parents to Europe, where every object -which presented itself to his eye was new. They first landed in -Holland, where the phlegmatic Dutchmen, who, like the Chinese, pique -themselves upon being “slow and sure,” viewed with astonishment the -pert and forward urchin, who, at ten years of age, began to babble of -science, cabinets, and collections. From Holland, however, they soon -removed to the more congenial soil of France. Here precocity, which -too frequently generates hopes never destined to be fulfilled, has -always been viewed with more complacency than in any other country in -Europe; and accordingly our youthful traveller, whose vanity amply -made up for his want of knowledge, was flattered and encouraged to his -heart’s content. In this particular instance the flowers were succeeded -by fruit. Being capable of existing in solitude, which is difficult -in youth, but yet absolutely necessary to the acquisition of studious -habits, he yielded to his natural inclination for the chase, and spent -whole weeks in the forests of Lorrain and Germany, intently studying -the manners of animals and birds. His education, meanwhile, was not -in other respects neglected; but the books which occupied him most -agreeably were voyages and travels, as his mind seems already to have -turned towards that point from which he was to derive his fame. - -In the course of the year 1777 some fortunate circumstance conducted -him to Paris, where the collections and cabinets of learned and -scientific men at first afforded him extraordinary delight; but -ended, he says, by inspiring him with contempt, the richness of the -treasures which they contained being equalled only by the confusion -and absurdity observable in their arrangement. He discovered likewise -in the current works on natural history, even in those of Buffon, so -much exaggeration, and so many errors, notwithstanding the masterly -eloquence with which those errors are clothed, that, convinced that no -degree of genius could preserve from delusion the man who describes -nature at second-hand, he at length determined to become a traveller -before he became a natural historian, that he might observe in their -native woods and deserts the animals which he wished to make known to -the world. With these views, without communicating his plans to any -person, he departed from Paris on the 17th of July, 1780, and proceeded -to Holland. - -Having visited the principal cities of the republic, and admired at -Amsterdam the superb collection and aviary of M. Temminck and others, -he obtained permission to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope in one -of the ships of the Dutch East India Company, and set sail for that -country on the 3d of December, 1780, the day before England declared -war against the Dutch. Had this event taken place twenty-four hours -sooner, the company, he observes, would not have allowed them to -depart; in which case all his projects might have been frustrated. -During the voyage the ship was cannonaded during several hours by a -small English privateer, while the Dutch captain, rendered incapable -of reflection by terror, never returned a single shot; and although -exceedingly superior in men and metal to the enemy, would undoubtedly -have suffered himself to be taken prisoner, had not another Dutch -ship-of-war hove in sight, and put to flight the audacious Englishman. -This was the only incident worthy of mention which occurred to -dissipate the _ennui_ of their long voyage; and they arrived at Cape -Town three months and ten days after their departure from the Texel. - -Le Vaillant, who had taken care to provide himself previous to his -departure from Amsterdam with numerous letters of recommendation, -was received with remarkable attention by several individuals of -distinction at the Cape. His design of exploring the remoter districts -of the colony and the adjacent countries fortunately excited no -jealousy or suspicion in their minds, and therefore, instead of -labouring, as petty colonial governments too frequently do, to obstruct -the interests of science, they evinced a disposition to favour the -views of the traveller, entertained him with profuse hospitality during -the many months which the preparations for his journey required him to -remain among them, and, which to him was still more important, exerted -their influence and authority to facilitate his movements towards the -countries of the interior. So agreeable a reception could not, of -course, fail to produce its effect upon the mind of the traveller. -It quite melted away his affected misanthropy. He found himself in -good-humour with mankind, and, as if benevolence and philanthropy were -the peculiar attributes of the natives of Holland, observes, that this -species of politeness was what he had reckoned upon, for that he knew -he had to deal with Dutchmen! - -His remarks upon Cape Town, now no longer in the possession of the -Dutch, are sufficiently curious, as they enable us to contrast its -appearance fifty years ago with that which it at present wears under -English government. Though a large proportion of the houses were -spacious and handsome, the streets, in spite of their great breadth, -appeared disagreeable even to a Frenchman, on account of the badness of -the pavement, and the stench which everywhere offended the nostrils, -arising from the heads, feet, and intestines of slaughtered animals -which the butchers of the company were in the habit of casting forth -in heaps before their doors, and which, with more than Ottomite -negligence, the authorities allowed to putrefy upon the spot. The -effluvia proceeding from these abominations Le Vaillant with reason -regarded as one of the active causes of those epidemics which usually -prevailed in the city during those seasons in which the violent -south-east wind had not blown. While this cleansing wind was performing -its operations, the streets were almost rendered impassable. The -hurricane, precipitating from the mountains dense masses of vapour, -raged for several days with indescribable impetuosity, overthrowing -every thing in its course, and filling all places, even to the closets, -trunks, and drawers, with dust. Trees and plants were frequently torn -up by the roots; and well-planted gardens were rendered in the course -of twenty-four hours as bare and naked as a desert. - -Le Vaillant found the native colonists of the Cape handsome and well -formed, particularly the women; but, although they studied with -perseverance the important science of dress, they were still very far, -in his opinion, from the ease and elegance of the ladies of France; -a result which he in a great measure attributes to the practice of -employing slaves as wet-nurses, and of otherwise living with them in -habits of great familiarity. Slavery under any form is a thing to be -abhorred; but our traveller here seems to exaggerate its deformities. -Gracefulness, taste, decorum, which should, perhaps, be numbered among -the virtues in a well-regulated state, are things with which slavery -is by no means incompatible. The most polished nation of antiquity, -which every person but a Frenchman will allow to have at least equalled -the Parisians in refinement, constantly employed domestic slaves, and -lived with them on terms of considerable familiarity. But ignorance -and refinement are necessarily repugnant to each other; and in general -the Dutch inhabitants of the Cape were, according to Le Vaillant, -remarkable for their ignorance, which, without the aid of slavery, -would sufficiently account for the absence of graceful and elegant -manners. - -Strangers, however, arriving at the Cape were almost invariably -received with great hospitality, more particularly the English, who -were admired for their generosity, as much as the French, for their -sordid avarice and egotism, were despised and hated. Le Vaillant, in -fact, observes that he has frequently heard colonists declare they -would prefer being conquered by the English to their owing their -safety to a nation whom they regarded with such aversion as the -French; and the French troops which shortly afterward arrived in the -colony, spreading around them vice and profligacy like a pestilence, -debauching the wives and daughters of those who hospitably received -them into their houses, and sowing dissension and eternal regrets in -the bosoms of a hundred families, fully justified this deep-rooted -hatred. The great number of persons in France who from selfish motives -remain unmarried, and speculate upon the gratification of their feeble -passions at the expense of the weak-minded and the miserable, must -always render the nation an object of aversion among a remote people -like the Dutch colonists of the Cape, whose ignorant simplicity -necessarily exposes them to the shame of suffering by such immorality. - -But if the English were so much the objects of admiration to the -people, their numerous and powerful fleets, which have for centuries -exercised an undisputed omnipotence on the ocean, rendered them no less -terrible to the authorities, who, to secure the company’s vessels from -their dreaded cannon, commanded them to be removed from Table Bay to -that of Saldanha, where, it was hoped, their chances of escape would be -more numerous. On board of one of these our traveller embarked on the -10th of May, and next morning arrived safely in the Bay of Saldanha, -happy that the dreaded English flag had not encountered them on their -passage. - -In the waters of this bay, which was then but seldom visited, great -numbers of whales were continually seen sporting about; and Le -Vaillant, whose hunting propensities were immediately awakened by the -sight of a wild animal, frequently amused himself with firing at this -new species of game. He could never perceive, however, that his balls -produced the least effect upon them. But in Mutton Island, situated -in the entrance of the bay, his fowlingpiece was more fortunate; for, -from the prodigious number of rabbits with which that isle abounded, he -found it easy on all occasions to kill as many as he pleased. In fact, -this little isle became the warren of the whole fleet. - -Various species of game abounded in the neighbourhood, among which -the principal were the partridge and the hare, and that small kind of -gazelle denominated steen-bock by the colonists. The panther, too, -following in the track of his prey, was found in great numbers in -this district. A few days after his arrival Le Vaillant was invited -by the commandant to join him in a hunting-party. Their chase was -unsuccessful: they killed nothing. Towards the close of the day, as if -fate had decreed that his courage should at once be put to the proof, -Le Vaillant found himself separated from his companion; and continuing -as he proceeded to fire at intervals, in the hope of arousing the game, -he started a small gazelle, which his dog immediately pursued. The -gazelle was quickly out of sight, but the dog, which still seemed to be -upon his track, stopped on the skirts of a large thicket, and began to -bark. Le Vaillant, who had now no doubt that the game had taken refuge -there, hastened to the spot with all the eagerness of a sportsman. -His presence encouraged the dog, and he every moment expected to see -the gazelle appear; but at length, growing impatient, he entered -into the thicket, beating the bushes aside with his fowlingpiece. -It is difficult, however, to describe the terror and confusion he -experienced when, instead of a timid and feeble gazelle, he saw before -him a tremendous panther, whose glaring eyes were fixed upon him, while -its outstretched neck, gaping jaws, and low, hollow growl seemed to -announce its intention of springing. He regarded himself as lost. But -the calm courage of his dog saved his life. It kept the animal at bay, -hesitating between rage and fear, until the traveller had retreated out -of the thicket. He then made towards the house of the commandant with -all possible speed, frequently looking behind him as he ran. - -Another kind of terror shortly after seized upon him at sea. He was -sitting at supper with the captain and the other officers, when -a sudden strange motion was observed in the ship. Every person -immediately ran on deck. The whole crew were alarmed. Some imagined -they had run upon their anchors, and were beating against the rocks; -others accounted for the shock in a different manner; but, perceiving -from the position of the other ships that they were still exactly where -they had been before, no one could conjecture the cause of what had -happened, and their alarm was redoubled. Presently, however, upon more -careful observation, a whale was discovered entangled by the tail, -between the ship’s cables, and making furious efforts to disengage -itself. This was the cause of the singular motion they had felt. All -hands now rushed with harpoons into the boat; but the obscurity of the -night retarding their movements, the whale, just as they were ready to -attack it, succeeded in disentangling its tail, and escaped. - -In the entrance to Saldanha Bay there is a second small island, to -which the colonists have given the name of the Marmotte. Upon this -sequestered spot the captain of a Danish vessel, as our traveller -had learned from tradition, having been long detained in the bay -by contrary winds, had died there, and been buried by his crew. Le -Vaillant now conceived the desire of visiting his grave. In sailing -by this lonely rock, in the passage to and from Mutton Island, he -had invariably been struck by a dull but startling sound, proceeding -from the isle. He mentioned the circumstance to the captain. The -good-natured navigator, anxious to oblige his guest, and perhaps -himself desirous of beholding the Dane’s grave, replied, that if his -wishes pointed that way they should immediately be gratified. - -Next morning, accordingly, they proceeded towards the island. In -proportion as they advanced, the noise, increasing in loudness, more -and more excited their curiosity; and the sound of the waves, which -broke with great violence against the rocks, contributed not a little -to swell the deep murmur, the cause of which no one could conjecture. -They landed at length amid spray and foam, and, clambering up the -cliffs, succeeded with much difficulty in reaching the summit. Here -they beheld a sight such, in the opinion of our traveller, as no mortal -ever beheld before. There arose in a moment from the surface of the -earth an impenetrable cloud, which formed, at the height of forty -feet above their heads, a prodigious canopy, or rather sky, of birds -of every kind and colour. “Cormorants, sea-swallows, pelicans,--in -one word,” says he, “all the winged creatures of Southern Africa were -collected, I verily believe, in that spot. The screams of so enormous -a multitude of birds mingling together formed an infernal species of -music, which seemed to rend the ear with its piercing notes. - -“The alarm,” he adds, “was so much the greater, among these innumerable -legions of birds, in that it was the females with whom we had -principally to deal, it being the season of nesting. They had therefore -their nests, their eggs, their young ones to defend, and were as fierce -as so many harpies. They deafened us with their cries. They stooped -upon the wing, and in darting past us, brushed our faces. It was in -vain that we fired our pieces; nothing could frighten away this living -cloud. We could scarcely take a single step without crushing some eggs -or young birds: the earth was covered by them.” - -They found the caverns and hollows of the rocks inhabited by seals -and sea-lions, of the latter of which they killed one specimen of -enormous size. The various creeks of the island afforded a retreat to -the manchot, a species of penguin, two feet in height, the wings of -which, being entirely devoid of feathers, are only used in swimming. On -land they hang down by the side of the body in a negligent manner, and -communicate to the appearance and air of the bird something peculiarly -sinister and funereal. These dismal-looking birds crowded every part -of the island, but were nowhere so numerous as about the Dane’s tomb, -around which they clustered as if to defend it from violation, and with -their startling, melancholy cry, which mingled with the roar of the -seal and the sea-lion, gave an air of sadness to the scene which deeply -affected the soul. In itself the tomb was rude and simple,--a single -block of stone, without name or inscription. - -During the whole of his stay on this part of the coast Le Vaillant -was actively employed in adding to his collection, which, with his -money, clothes, and papers, continued on board the Middleburg, the -principal ship on the station. He had now been three months in this -neighbourhood, which he had traversed in every direction. He still -continued, however, to roam about with his dog and gun in search of -birds and animals; but one day, on approaching the shore, the roaring -of cannon struck his ear. He at first supposed it might be some _fête_ -given on board the ships, and hastened his march as much as possible, -in the hope of sharing in the rejoicings. Upon his reaching the downs -overlooking the bay, a very different spectacle presented itself. The -Middleburg had just been blown up, and its burning fragments still -filled the air, or lay widely scattered upon the sea! Here, then, was -the end of all his hopes; for not only the results of his labours, but -his fortune, the basis upon which all his projects were founded, was -now destroyed. - -The cause of this calamity was soon discovered. The English fleet, -having obtained intelligence of the retreat of the Dutch, had burst -upon them so suddenly, that the terrified commanders had all, with the -exception of Vangenep, the commander of the Middleburg, been taken -unawares, and prevented from executing the orders they had received, -rather to run aground, sink, or blow up their ships, than suffer -them to fall into the hands of the enemy. Instead of this, they all -abandoned their vessels at the first appearance of the English, the -sailors, notwithstanding their apprehensions of the enemy, carrying -away with them every thing they could bring on shore, though the desire -to escape beyond reach of the English cannon quickly compelled them -to cast their burdens on the ground. Everywhere the roads and paths -were crowded with fugitives, and covered with the plunder which they -had abandoned on the way. Among the rest, an English prisoner was -flying from the shore. Le Vaillant met him, and having, as well as he -could, questioned him in English respecting the horrible catastrophe, -was expecting an answer, when a cannon-ball carried off his head, and -the answer with it. A large dog, which was running about wild and -trembling, apparently in search of his master, was next moment killed -by another ball; and Le Vaillant, apprehensive that the third might -reach himself, immediately fled over the downs, and ensconced himself -behind an eminence. - -His position at this moment, it must be confessed, was sufficiently -calamitous. To repair to the Cape, there to petition among a crowd of -adventurers and unfortunates for pecuniary aid, was a step he could -ill brook; yet, unless he submitted to this humiliation, what must -be his fate? His family, his friends, his adopted country were two -thousand leagues distant. His whole resources now consisted in his -fowlingpiece, the clothes he then wore, and ten ducats. His misfortunes -presented themselves to his mind in all their horrors, and he burst -into tears,--a trait of weakness for which he might have pleaded the -example of Homer’s and Virgil’s poetical heroes. An honest colonist, -however, to whose house he repaired in this extremity, received him -with a frank hospitality, which in some degree dissipated his chagrin; -and he next day returned, though not without melancholy, to the first -elements of his collection. - -His misfortunes were soon known at the Cape, and in a few days after -this occurrence he was again placed, by the friendship of M. Boers, -the fiscal, in a condition to act as if nothing had happened. He -therefore directed his attention to the preparations required by his -projected journey into the interior; and these, from the style in -which he designed to travel, were numerous and considerable. He caused -to be constructed two large four-wheeled wagons, covered above with -double canvass, in one of which were placed five large packing-cases, -which exactly filled the bottom of the vehicle, and could be opened -without being removed. Over these was spread a mattress, on which he -might occasionally sleep; and on this mattress, which during the day -was rolled up in the back of the wagon, he placed the cabinet fitted -up with drawers, in which he intended to preserve his insects. The -other cases were filled with powder, lead for casting balls, tobacco, -hardware, brandy, and toys. He had sixteen fowlingpieces, one of which, -calculated for shooting elephants, rhinoceroses, and hippopotami, -carried a quarter of a pound ball. Besides these he had several pairs -of double-barrelled pistols, a scimitar, and a dagger. - -The second wagon carried his kitchen utensils, which, as he was -rather addicted to luxurious eating, were numerous for a traveller: a -gridiron, a frying-pan, two kettles, a caldron, tea-kettles, tea-pots, -coffee-pots, basins, plates, dishes, &c. of porcelain. To supply these -he laid in a large store of white sugar, coffee, tea, chocolate, and -sugar-candy. His brandy and tobacco, to the use of which he was not -at all addicted, were designed to purchase friends among the natives, -and to keep his Hottentot attendants in good-humour. In addition -to his wagons he had a great and a small tent, and numerous other -conveniences, which he describes with great complacency. His train -consisted of five Hottentots, nine dogs, and thirty oxen; but both his -servants and his cattle were afterward considerably increased. - -Le Vaillant judged rightly, that on proceeding on such an expedition -it would be imprudent to have any associate of equal rank. Few men are -calculated by nature to become travellers, though every person whose -constitution will endure fatigue may perform a journey; but there are -still fewer who are gifted with those happy qualities which render -men desirable companions in an undertaking whence fame is expected to -be derived. Some, from feebleness of purpose, desert you almost at -the outset, and, to conceal their own pusillanimity, represent you -in their coteries as feeble, or selfish, or impracticable; others, -more mischievous still, proceed so far that they cannot return, but, -clinging to your skirts, contrive on every trying occasion to impede -your movements, or cast a damp upon your energies; while a third class, -too brave to feel alarm, too consistent to shrink from an enterprise -begun, too honest to misrepresent you, will yet thwart your designs -through obstinacy, or through the pardonable but fatal desire to follow -a plan of their own. For these reasons our traveller, though solicited -by many who would have gladly borne him company, steadily refused to -admit of an associate, and determined to proceed on his journey alone. - -His preparations being at length completed, he took leave of his -friends, and departed from Cape Town on the 18th of December, 1781. -Whatever be the natural condition of man, his mind never so powerfully -experiences the emotions of delight as when, escaping voluntarily from -the restraints of society and civilization, he finds himself his own -master, and trusting to his own prowess for protection, on the virgin -bosom of the earth; for of all the enjoyments which Heaven bestows upon -mankind perfect liberty is the sweetest. Something of this Le Vaillant -now tasted; for, although still within the pale of the laws and the -purlieus of government, he saw himself on the way to the freedom of -the woods, and partook by anticipation of those pleasures which to the -savage are, perhaps, an ample equivalent for the gratification which -letters and refinement afford. - -The direction of his course lay along the eastern coast, towards the -country of the Kaffers. At intervals the houses of colonists, with -their orchards and plantations, appeared; but they became thinner -as he advanced, while the woods and general scenery increased in -magnificence; and the troops of wild animals, such as the zebra and -the antelope, which stretched themselves out like armies on the plain, -became strikingly more numerous and of more frequent occurrence. “We -likewise,” says the traveller, “saw several ostriches; and the variety -and the movements of these vast hordes were particularly amusing. My -dogs fiercely pursued all these different species of animals, which, -mingling together in their flight, often formed but one enormous -column. This confusion, however, like that of theatrical machines, -lasted but for a moment. I recalled my dogs, and in an instant each -animal had regained his own herd, which constantly kept at a certain -distance from all the others.” Among these animals were the blue -antelope, the rarest and most beautiful of all the known species of -gazelle. - -The habits of a small kind of tortoise, which afforded them the -materials of various feasts during this part of the journey, are very -remarkable. When the great heats of summer arrive, and dry up the ponds -in which they pass the winter, they descend into the earth in search of -humidity, deeper and deeper in proportion as the sun penetrates farther -and farther into the soil. In this position they remain plunged in a -kind of lethargy until the return of the rainy season; but those who -require them for food may always, by digging, discover an ample supply. -Their eggs, which they lay on the brink of the small lakes and ponds -which they inhabit, and abandon to be hatched by the sun, are about the -size of those of the pigeon, and extremely good eating. - -Le Vaillant was careful as he went along to augment his followers, both -rational and irrational. He hired several new Hottentots, and purchased -a number of oxen, with a milch-cow, and some she-goats, whose milk he -foresaw might be an important possession in various circumstances. He -likewise purchased a cock to awake him in the morning, and a monkey, -which, besides serving as an almost unerring taster, his instinct -enabling him immediately to distinguish such fruits and herbs as were -innoxious and wholesome from such as were hurtful, was a still better -watchman even than the dog, as the slightest noise, the most distant -sign of danger, instantly awakened his terrors, and, by the cries and -gestures of fear which it extorted from him, put his master upon his -guard. - -Thus accompanied, he continued his journey towards the east, until his -progress was stopped by the Dove’s River, upon the banks of which he -determined to encamp until the decrease of its waters should render -it fordable. His mode of life, which the hospitable invitations of -the neighbouring colonists, to whom the sight of a stranger was like a -spring in the desert, were not suffered to interrupt, was exceedingly -agreeable. “I regulated,” says he, “the employment of my time, which -was usually spent in the following manner:--At night, when not -travelling, I slept in my wagon or in my tent; awakened by the break -of day by my cock, my first business was to prepare my coffee, while -the Hottentots, on their part, were busied about the cattle. As soon -as the sun appeared I took my fowlingpiece, and, setting out with my -monkey, beat about the neighbourhood until ten o’clock. On returning to -my tent, I always found it well swept and clean. The superintendence -of this part of my economy had been confided to the care of an old -African whose name was Swanspoel, who, not being able to follow us -in our rambles, was intrusted with the government of the camp, and -invariably maintained it in good order. The furniture of my tent was -not very abundant; a camp-stool or two, a table appropriated to the -dissection of my animals, and a few instruments required in their -preparation constituted the whole of its ornaments. From ten o’clock -until twelve I was employed in my tents, classing in my drawers the -insects I had found. I then dined. Placing upon my knees a small board -covered with a napkin, a single dish of roasted or broiled meat was -served up. After this frugal meal I returned to my work, if I had left -any thing unfinished, and then amused myself with hunting until sunset. -I then retired to my tent, lighted a candle, and spent an hour or two -in describing my discoveries or the events of the day in my journal. -Meanwhile, the Hottentots were employed in collecting the cattle, and -penning them around the tents and wagons. The she-goats, as soon as -they had been milked, lay down here and there among the dogs. Business -being over, and the customary great fire kindled, we gathered together -in a circle. I then took my tea; my people joyously smoked their -pipes, and for my amusement related stories, the humorous absurdity -of which almost made me crack my sides with laughter. I delighted to -encourage them, and they were by no means timid with me, as I was -careful to treat them with frankness, cordiality, and attention. On -many occasions, in fact, when the beauty of the evening succeeding the -fatigues of the day had put me in good-humour with myself and with -every thing about me, I involuntarily yielded to the spell, and gently -cherished the illusion. At such moments every one disputed with his -neighbour for the honour of amusing me by his superior wit; and by the -profound silence which reigned among us, the able story-teller might -discover how highly we appreciated his art. I know not what powerful -attraction continually leads my memory back to those peaceful days! -I still imagine myself in the midst of my camp, surrounded by my -people and my animals; an agreeable site, a mountain, a tree,--nay, -even a plant, a flower, or a fragment of rock scattered here and -there,--nothing escapes from my memory; and this spectacle, which daily -grows more and more affecting, amuses me, follows me into all places, -and has often made me forget what I have suffered from men who call -themselves civilized.” - -Provisions were plentiful; partridges as large as pheasants, and -two kinds of antelopes, whose flesh was tender and nourishing. The -colonists of the vicinity, rendered generous by abundance, gratuitously -furnished him with an ample provision of milk, fruit, and vegetables, -which the traveller shared with his monkey and his Hottentots. From -this position, however, he was at length, by the shrinking of the -river, enabled to remove; and, continuing to pursue his route in the -same direction as before, he crossed several diminutive streams, and -arrived on the banks of the river Gaurits, where, the stream not being -fordable, he encamped for three days among groves of mimosa-trees. -Perceiving no sign of abatement in the waters, he then constructed a -raft, upon which his wagons and baggage were ferried over, while the -oxen and other animals swam across. - -His road during this part of the journey lay at no great distance from -the sea, which therefore communicated a refreshing coolness to the -breezes, presented him at intervals with magnificent prospects, and -at the same time administered pabulum to his passion for shooting, -its solitary margin affording a retreat to thousands of flamingoes -and pelicans. His animals, meanwhile, fared luxuriously. The soil -throughout these districts was remarkable for its fertility; but a -small canton, a little to the east of Mossel Bay, called the country of -the Auteniquas, surpassed in beauty and magnificence all the landscapes -of southern Africa. Having with considerable toil ascended to the -summit of a mountain, “we were well repaid,” says Le Vaillant, “for -the fatigue which we had undergone. Our admiration was excited by the -loveliest country in the world. In the distance appeared the chain of -mountains covered with forests, which bounded the prospect on the west; -beneath our feet the eye wandered over an immense valley, the aspect -of which was diversified by hillocks, infinitely varied in form, and -descending in wavy swells towards the sea. Richly enamelled meadows -and splendid pasture-grounds still further increased the beauty of -this magnificent landscape. I was literally in ecstasy. This country -bears the name of Auteniquas, which, in the Hottentot idiom, signifies -‘the man laden with honey;’ and, in fact, we could not proceed a -single step without beholding a thousand swarms of bees. The flowers -grew in myriads, and the mingled perfume which exhaled from them, and -deliciously intoxicated the senses, their colours, their variety, the -cool pure air which we breathed, every thing united to arrest our -footsteps. Nature has bestowed the charms of fairy-land upon this spot. -Almost every flower was filled with exquisite juices, and furnished the -bees with abundant materials for the fabrication of their honey, which -they deposited in every hollow rock and tree.” - -This description, which no doubt falls far short of the reality--for -what language can equal the beauties of nature?--reminds me strongly -of Spenser’s noble picture of the Gardens of Adonis. Poetry itself, -however, with all its metaphors and picturesque expressions, is faint -and dim compared with the splendour of a summer landscape, where earth, -air, and sea unite their rich hues and sublime aspect to entrance and -dazzle the eye. But our old bard, whom no man ever excelled in minute -painting of inanimate nature, contrives, by careful and repeated -touches, to unfold before the imagination an exquisite view. “There,” -says he, speaking of the gardens of the Assyrian youth, - - “There is continual spring, and harvest there - Continual, both meeting at one time: - For both the boughs do laughing blossoms bear - And with fresh flowers deck the wanton prime, - And eke at once the heavy trees they climb, - Which seem to labour under their fruit’s load: - The while the joyous birds make their pastime, - Among the shady leaves, their sweet abode, - And their true loves without suspicion tell abroad. - - * * * * * - - And all about grew every sort of flower, - To which sad lovers were transformed of yore,” &c. - -The dwellings which the few colonists, who had been led by poverty so -far from the Cape, erected in the midst of this smiling scene, offered -a striking contrast with it. Huts covered with earth, like the dens -of wild animals, in which the inhabitants passed the night stretched -upon a buffalo’s hide, afforded shelter to men who lived in plenty, -and were thus badly lodged from mere idleness. It is now inhabited by -Englishmen, and the contrast, it may well be imagined, no longer exists. - -Le Vaillant, who apprehended that the country of the Auteniquas -might prove a kind of Capua to his followers, made no stay in it, -but pushed forward with all speed, and encamped on the skirts of an -immense forest. This wood abounded with touracos, a species of bird -of which he had hitherto been able to procure no specimen. His first -business therefore was, if possible, to possess himself of this bird. -His scientific ardour was kindled. He scoured the woods. The touraco -presented itself before him, but its habits unfortunately inclining it -always to perch upon the tops of the loftiest trees, he could never -succeed in bringing it down. One afternoon, however, his eagerness -increasing with his disappointments, he determined not to desist from -the pursuit of his prey, and the bird, which appeared to delight in -mocking him, confined itself to short flights, flitting from tree to -tree, until it had drawn him to a considerable distance from his camp. -Growing impatient, at length the traveller, though still believing -the bird beyond the reach of his fowlingpiece, fired, and had the -unexpected satisfaction of seeing it drop from the tree. His joy now -knew no bounds. He rushed on to snatch up his prey, - - Thorough bush, thorough briar, - -until his hands and legs were dripping with blood; but when he came -up to the spot where the touraco should have been, he could discover -nothing. He searched the surrounding thickets again and again; he -proceeded farther, he returned, he examined the same spots twenty -times, he peeped into every bush, into every hole; his labour was -in vain. No touraco. “I was,” says he, “in despair, and the thick -brushwood and thorny shrubs, which had now covered even my very face -with blood, had irritated me in an indescribable manner. Nothing less -than the appearance of a lion or a tiger could at that moment have -calmed my rage. That a wretched bird, which, after so many wishes -and so much toil, I had at length succeeded in bringing down, should -after all escape from me in so unaccountable a manner! I struck my -fowlingpiece against the earth, and stamped with passion. All at once -the ground gave way under my feet; I disappeared, and sunk, with my -arms in my hand, into a pit twelve feet deep. Astonishment, and the -pain caused by the fall, now succeeded my rage. I saw myself in one -of those covered pitfalls which the Hottentots construct for the -taking of wild beasts, particularly the elephant. When I had recovered -from my surprise I began to reflect upon the means of escaping, and -congratulated myself that I had not fallen upon the sharp stake fixed -up at the bottom of the pit to impale the wild animals, and that I -found no company in the snare. But as it was every moment possible that -some might arrive, particularly during the night, should I be compelled -to remain there so long, my terrors quickly increased as darkness -approached, and retarded the execution of the only plan I could imagine -for extricating myself without assistance; this was to cut out a kind -of steps with my sabre in the sides of the pit, but this operation -would be a tedious one. In this dilemma the idea of the only rational -plan suggested itself; which was, to pick up and load my fusil. I did -so, and fired shot after shot. It was possible I might be heard by -my attendants. I therefore listened from time to time with the most -painful anxiety and a palpitating heart, in order to discover whether -my signal had been heard. At last two shots re-echoed through the wood, -and overwhelmed me with joy. I now continued firing at intervals, in -order to guide my deliverers to the spot, and in a short time they -arrived, armed to the teeth, and full of uneasiness and alarm.” - -He was immediately delivered from the elephant-trap; but having -incurred so much risk in searching for the touraco, he made it a point -of honour not to be balked, and recommencing his scrutiny, with the -dogs which had arrived with his servants, found it jammed close under -a small bush. He immediately seized upon his prey, and the pleasure of -possessing this new and rare bird very quickly obliterated from his -memory the trouble and danger which it had cost him. - -In this encampment they remained until the setting in of the rains, -when storms, accompanied by tremendous thunder, succeeded each other -with singular rapidity. The thunderbolt several times fell near them -in the forest. The whole country round was flooded, but they still -clung to their encampment, until the whole was at length overflowed -during the night. They then removed; but could proceed but a very short -distance, for every paltry stream was now swelled to a furious torrent, -which rushed down with impetuosity from the hills, rolling along with -it mud, trees, and fragments of rock, and threatening whoever should -attempt to traverse them with destruction. Meanwhile his cattle, -pressed by hunger, had escaped from the camp; his dogs, which no degree -of want could estrange, were reduced to skeletons, and fought with each -other for the most revolting food; his Hottentots, less affectionate -than the dogs, began to murmur, but could discover no just cause of -complaint, and were but little disposed to aid themselves. A drowned -buffalo, however, which was accidentally found in one of the torrents, -came opportunely to appease their hunger; they dragged it on -shore with shouts of joy, and having cut it in pieces, and given the -dogs their share, they feasted upon the remainder and were happy. - -At length the month of March arrived, and the rains abated. The -torrents, ceasing to receive their aliments from the clouds--for, -like the Nile, they are strictly διϊὲες--shrunk to their ordinary -insignificance, the camp was immediately put in motion, and pushing -onwards for a few leagues, they discovered a more convenient site on -the acclivity of a hill, where they remained some time to recruit -themselves and their cattle. Le Vaillant travelled for pleasure, -and was gifted with the happy faculty of discovering at a glance -its springs and sources. Near the site of his camp there was a -small eminence, the summit of which was crowned with a diminutive -grove, where the trees had so grown into each other that the whole -seemed one solid mass of foliage. He immediately conceived the idea -of transforming this thicket into a palace; and causing a covered -entrance to be cut into the centre, he there hewed out two large square -apartments, one of which was immediately converted into a study, and -the other into a kitchen. If we keep out of sight the kitchen, and the -share which art had in its formation, Spenser has admirably described -this arbour, as well as the hill on which it stood: - - Right in the middest of that paradise - There stood a stately mount, on whose round top - A gloomy grove of myrtle-trees did rise, - Whose shady boughs sharp steel did never lop, - Nor wicked beasts their tender buds did crop. - But like a girlond compassed the height, - And from their fruitful sides sweet gum did drop, - That all the ground, with precious dew bedight, - Threw forth most dainty odours and most sweet delight. - - And in the thickest covert of that shade - There was a pleasant arbour, not by art, - But of the trees’ own inclination, made, - Which knitting their rank branches, part to part, - With wanton ivy-twine entrailed athwart, - And eglantine and caprifole among, - Fashioned above within their inmost part, - That neither Phœbus’ beams could through them throng, - Nor Æolus’ sharp blast could work them any wrong. - -But, whatever charms his arbours might possess for him, his plans -rendered it necessary soon to leave them. He therefore, after spending -a pleasant week with M. Mulder, the last of the colonists in his route, -pushed on towards the Black River, which he crossed on rafts, and at -length found himself beyond the Dutch settlements. Here an accident -occurred which might at once have terminated his journey. In toiling -up a rough, precipitous mountain, where it was found necessary to yoke -twenty oxen to a wagon, the traces of the principal vehicle snapped -asunder, immediately in front of the great shaft-oxen, which being -unable to resist the enormous weight to which they were attached, -reeled back, and the wagon at once rolled down along the edge of an -abyss; while Le Vaillant and his whole party stood still, watching, -with uplifted hands and looks of dismay, each shock and slide of -the cumbrous machine, which, after twenty hair-breadth escapes, ran -against a large rock on the edge of the torrent, and stopped, without -receiving any material injury. Loss of time, therefore, was the only -injury he sustained. By patience and industry they succeeded in passing -the mountain, which being effected, they descended into a magnificent -country, watered by numerous rivers, covered with woods, abounding in -game, and affording numerous specimens of birds and quadrupeds unknown -to natural history. - -In the midst of this new scene he was overtaken by disease. Though of -a disposition naturally intrepid, the idea that he might be destined -to perish in the wilderness, surrounded by savages, two thousand -leagues from home, disturbed his imagination. Charles the Twelfth of -Sweden, attacked by a fever when flying through the Ukraine after the -battle of Pultowa, experienced a diminution of courage, and, unless my -memory deceive me, was seen to shed tears; and Cæsar, when the fit, as -Shakspeare has it, was on him, cried, “Give me some drink, Titinius, -like a sick girl.” Le Vaillant, therefore, had good authority for -his melancholy. His temperament, moreover, in proportion as it was -more susceptible of exhilarating impressions in health, was proner in -sickness to yield to despondency. He was, besides, entirely ignorant -of medicine; knew nothing of the nature of the disease by which he -was attacked; and was surrounded by persons still more ignorant than -himself. All he could do, therefore, was to remain quiet, and allow -nature to work. For twelve days he lingered on the confines of life -and death, kept in a perpetual bath of perspiration by the heat of the -atmosphere; and this heat was his Pæon and Æsculapius, for by its sole -aid the fever, which had so fiercely menaced him, was entirely subdued. -However, it is extremely probable that he owed the disease as well as -the remedy to the climate. To enhance his misfortunes, his Hottentots -were at the same time attacked by dysentery; but, by strictly attending -to regimen, a difficult task to a gross and sensual people, they all, -without exception, recovered. - -This danger being removed, they proceeded on their journey, the -interest of which was every day increased by the greater solitude -of the scene, and the more frequent occurrence of wild animals, or -their traces. I would willingly describe at length the pleasures and -the adventures of this romantic excursion; but my plan forbids me to -indulge in voluminous details, and I want the art to present by a few -masterly strokes the whole of a complicated and animated scene to the -mind. However, I must attempt what I can. After wandering a full month -in a vast plain, intersected by forests, and, in a manner, walled -round by precipices, they were driven back upon their own footsteps, -fatigued and mortified, and unable to conjecture in what direction it -would be possible to advance. While they were in this humour, they -discovered in their route the footmarks of a herd of elephants. To -Le Vaillant, who had never yet enjoyed the satisfaction of hunting -this enormous animal, though it might, perhaps, be said to have -constituted one of his principal reasons for travelling in Africa, the -sight was sufficient to restore his equanimity. The order for halting -was immediately given, and having, as soon as the tents were pitched, -selected five of his best marksmen, our traveller set out in pursuit of -the game. - -The traces were so fresh and striking, that they had no difficulty in -following them. They therefore pushed on vigorously, expecting every -moment to come in sight of the herd. But still they saw nothing; and -night coming on, they bivouacked in the woods, and having supped gayly, -lay down to sleep, though not without considerable agitation and alarm. -At every puff of wind rustling through the leaves, at every hum of a -beetle, the whole party was roused, and put upon its guard. It was -feared that the monsters of which they were in search might rush upon -them unawares, and trample them to atoms. However, the night passed -away, as did likewise the day and night ensuing, without their being -disturbed by any thing more formidable than a stray buffalo, which -approaching the fire, and discovering that it was in the vicinity of -man, rushed back with all speed into the woods. - -On the third day, after a painful march among briers and underwood, -they arrived in a rather open part of the forest, when one of the -Hottentots, who had climbed up into a tree to reconnoitre, perceived -the herd in the distance, and putting his finger on his lips to enjoin -silence, informed them by opening and closing his hand of the number -of the elephants. He then came down; a council was held; and it was -determined they should approach them on the lee-side that they might -not be discovered. The Hottentot now conducted Le Vaillant through -the bushes to a small knoll, and desiring him to cast his eyes in a -certain direction, pointed out an enormous elephant not many paces -distant. At first, however, Le Vaillant could see nothing; or, rather, -he mistook what he saw of the animal for a portion of the rock by -which it stood. But when at length a slight motion had corrected his -mistake, he distinguished the head and enormous tusks of the beast -turned towards him. He instantly levelled his musket, and, aiming at -the brain, fired, and the elephant dropped down dead. The report of the -gun put the whole herd, consisting of about thirty, to instant flight; -and our traveller beheld with amazement their huge ears flapping the -air with a violence in proportion to the rapidity of their motion. - -The whole party now experienced that joyous alacrity which man always -feels when engaged in the work of destruction. They fired upon the -enemy, for as such the beasts were now to be regarded, and the sight -of the excrements mingled with blood, which escaped from the wounded -animal, and informed them that their bullets had taken effect, -delighted them exceedingly. Their pursuit now became more eager. The -elephant, writhing with pain, at one moment crouched to the earth, at -another rose, but only to fall again. The hunters, however, who hung -close upon his haunches, constantly by fresh volleys compelled him to -rise. In this condition he rushed through the woods, snapping off, or -uprooting trees in his passage. At length, becoming furious with pain, -he turned round upon his pursuers, who immediately fled in their turn. -Le Vaillant, more eager than the rest, had unhappily advanced before -them, and was now but twenty-five paces from the animal. His gun of -thirty pounds’ weight impeded his movements. The enemy gained upon -him every moment. His followers gave him up for lost; but just as the -elephant had overtaken him, he dropped down, and crept under the trunk -of a fallen tree, over which the furious beast, whose great height -prevents it, at least in such situations, from seeing under its feet, -bounded in an instant. Being terrified, however, by the noise of the -Hottentots, it had not advanced many paces before it stopped, and with -a wild but searching eye, began to reconnoitre the spot. Our traveller -had his long gun in his hand, and might, had he chosen, have fired -upon his enemy; but he knew that instant destruction must ensue should -he miss his aim, and he therefore preferred trusting to the chances -of concealment. Presently the elephant faced about, and drew near the -tree; but he again leaped over it without perceiving Le Vaillant, who, -as soon as he retreated to a sufficient distance, sprang from his -hiding-place, and shot him in the flank. Notwithstanding all this, he -succeeded in effecting his escape, though his bloody traces too clearly -showed the terrible condition to which their balls had reduced him. In -this critical conjuncture, Klaas, his principal Hottentot, exhibited -proofs of courage and affection which infinitely endeared him to his -master, who thenceforward regarded him more in the light of a brother -than a servant. - -To those who have all their lives been accustomed to live upon the -flesh of the ox and the sheep, elephant cutlets may appear revolting; -but in the deserts of Africa, where imperious hunger silences the -objections of prejudice, and teaches man to regard the whole animal -creation as his farmyard, the palate quickly accommodates itself to -the viands within its reach, and even learns to discover delicacy in -things which, in a fashionable dining-room, it might have loathed. -However this may be, Le Vaillant and his Hottentots, whose appetites -were grievously sharpened by fatigue, immediately employed themselves -in cutting up and cooking their game. For the former, as the most -dainty personage of the party, a few slices off the trunk were broiled, -and he found them so exquisite that, being as I have already said, -to a certain degree, an epicure, they gave him a taste for elephant -hunting, which he afterward seized every occasion of indulging. But he -was informed by Klaas that by far the greatest delicacy, which would -cause him to forget the flavour of the trunk, was yet to come. This -consisted of the elephant’s foot, which his people undertook to dress -for his breakfast. - -The reader who has perused Captain Cook’s “Voyages in the South Seas,” -or Ledyard, or the “Histoire Naturelle de l’Homme” of Lesson, will -remember the description given by those navigators of the curious -subterranean ovens employed by the native islanders in cooking. A large -opening is made in the earth, which is filled with red-hot stones or -charcoal, and upon these a great fire is kept up for several hours. -The hole is then cleared, and the thing which is to be baked inserted -in the centre. Then the top is again closed, and a blazing fire once -more kindled; which, having burned during a great part of the night, -is at length extinguished, when the oven is opened, and the meat taken -out, more exquisitely cooked than any man accustomed to the ordinary -culinary processes can conceive. - -Such was the process by which the elephant’s feet were baked for Le -Vaillant. When they presented him one for breakfast, “The cooking,” -says he, “had enlarged it prodigiously; I could scarcely recognise -the form. But it looked so nice, and exhaled so delicious an odour, -that I was impatient to taste it. It was a breakfast for a king. I -had heard much of the excellence of bears’ feet, but could not have -conceived that an animal so awkward, so material as the elephant, could -have afforded so tender, so delicate a meat. Never have our modern -Luculluses, thought I, seen any thing comparable upon their tables; it -is in vain that they confound and reverse the seasons by the force of -gold, and lay all the countries in the world under contribution: there -are bounds to their craving sensuality; they have never been able -to reach this point.” I do not see, however, what should prevent our -rearing elephants, as we rear sheep and oxen, for the slaughter; in -which case many persons, not ambitious of rivalling Lucullus in luxury, -might enjoy the sight of this _ne plus ultra_ of cooking upon their -tables. - -In proceeding eastward from this spot they encountered a horde of -wandering Hottentots, with whose women our traveller’s followers, now -considerably increased in number, contracted connexions with that -easy effrontery which, at first consideration, would appear to be an -attribute peculiar to civilized man. Le Vaillant is the apologist -of the Hottentots; they were the instruments of his pleasure. His -imagination associated them with romantic wanderings, with adventures, -with dangers, with escapes; and when, after his return to France, he -wished to remember and paint them in their true colours, the idea -that they had been his companions, that they had suffered privations, -and tasted of many enjoyments together, rushed into his mind, and -blinded his judgment by interesting his heart. This natural result -is not dishonourable to his feelings; but it can have no influence -with me. I have received from them neither good nor harm. I must, -therefore, confess that in my estimation they rank very low, even in -the scale of savage excellence. Timid even to cowardliness, they are -not urged by their temperament towards violence and bloodshed: but -this induces cringing and dastardly habits, and causes them to desert -their dearest friends when in danger. Gratitude is a plant which -flourishes only in noble breasts. Among the Hottentots it is feeble -and shortlived, unless nourished by a constant stream of benefits. -That they have little religion, or superstition, though no proof of -immorality, is an incontrovertible evidence of want of capacity and -genius; for intellect, wherever it exists, is skilful in the discovery -of intellect, and few, even among savage nations, are cursed with -perceptions so obtuse that they cannot, if I may venture so to express -myself, discover the footsteps of the sovereign intellect among the -phenomena of the visible world. How far the profound indifference in -which they are said to grovel on this point may exist, however, I will -not presume to determine. It is possible that travellers may sometimes -make these and similar savages the interpreters of their own thoughts. - -On approaching the country of the Kaffers, a brave and warlike people, -exceedingly hostile to the Hottentots, whom they regarded as the slaves -and spies of the colonists, the most terrible apprehensions were -awakened in his camp. Night and day they were on the alert. Every sound -which startled the darkness was transformed, by their terror, into the -footsteps of a Kaffer; and if they did not at once burst into open -mutiny against their chief, it was rather the fear of the dangers to -which the loss of him might expose them, than any ideas of discipline -or fidelity, that restrained them. - -Le Vaillant’s determination, nevertheless, still was to advance into -Kaffraria; but finding after repeated endeavours that no argument -could prevail upon his attendants, a very small number excepted, to -accompany him, he contented himself with despatching an envoy to the -Kaffer king, or chief. Meanwhile he continued to roam about on the -frontiers, hunting, shooting, and adding to his collections. Here he -encountered the fury of an African tempest. “The rain,” he observes, -“fell all night in such abundance, that, in spite of all our efforts, -it extinguished our fires. Our dogs made an indescribable clamour, and -kept us awake all night, though no wild beast appeared. I have observed -that during these rainy nights the lion, the tiger, and the hyena are -never heard; but the danger is increased twofold; for, as they still -roam about, they thus fall suddenly and unexpectedly on their prey. -Still further to increase the fright which this unfortunate fact must -occasion, the great humidity almost entirely deprives the dogs of the -power of smelling, which renders them of little use. Of this danger my -people were well aware, and therefore laboured with remarkable energy -to keep alive the fires. - -“It must be confessed,” he continues, “that the stormy nights of the -African deserts are the very image of desolation, and that terror, on -such occasions, involuntarily comes over one. When you are overtaken by -these deluges, your tents and mats are quickly drenched and overflowed; -a continual succession of lightning-flashes causes you twenty times in -a minute to pass abruptly and suddenly from the most terrific light to -entire darkness: the deafening roarings of the thunder, which burst -from every side with horrible din, roll, as it were, against each -other, are multiplied by the echoes, and hurled from peak to peak; the -howling of the domestic animals; short intervals of fearful silence; -every thing concurs to render those moments more melancholy. The danger -to be apprehended from wild beasts still further increases the terror; -and nothing but day can lessen the alarm, and restore nature to her -tranquillity.” - -In the interim between the departure and return of his messengers to -the Kaffer chief, he fell in with a horde of wild Hottentots whom he -denominates Gonaquas. A small party of them arrived at his camp during -the night, and on awaking in the morning he saw himself with surprise -surrounded by about twenty strange savages. They were accompanied by -their chief, who advanced in a polite manner to pay his respects to the -traveller, while the women, at once curious and timid, followed close -behind, adorned with all their ornaments. Their bodies, the greater -part of which was naked, were all newly anointed and sprinkled with -red powder, which exhaled an agreeable perfume; while their faces had -been painted in a variety of fashions. Each came, in the manner of the -East, bringing or bearing a present. From one he received a number of -ostrich’s eggs, a lamb from a second, while a third presented him with -a quantity of milk in baskets. These baskets, woven with exquisite -ingenuity with fine reeds or roots, are of so close a texture, that -they may be used in carrying water. The chief’s present consisted of -a handful of ostrich feathers of rare beauty, which Le Vaillant, to -show how highly he valued them, immediately fixed in his hat, instead -of his own plume. He then, in return, laid before the old chief, whose -name was Haabas, several pounds of tobacco, which the Gonaqua at once -distributed in equal portions among his people, reserving merely his -own share, which did not exceed any other person’s, for himself. Other -gifts, highly valued by savages, such as tinder-boxes, knives, beads, -and bracelets, were added to the tobacco, and diffused universal joy -among the tribe. - -Among the women there was a girl of sixteen, who, by the pleasure -with which she seemed to regard his person, particularly attracted -the attention of Le Vaillant. Considered as an African she might be -pronounced beautiful, and her form, which would have tempted the pencil -of an Albano, possessed all those amorous contours which we admire in -the Graces. Our traveller appears to have been in general but little -susceptible of the charms of women; but the beautiful Gonaqua quickly -caused him to feel that when accompanied by a desire to please, female -attractions are everywhere irresistible, and to express his admiration -he bestowed upon the savage beauty the name of Narina, which, in the -Hottentot idiom, signifies “a flower.” Presents, it may be easily -imagined, were not spared in this instance. The riches of his camp were -in her power,--shawls, necklaces, girdles, every ornament which his -European taste loved to contemplate on the female form, was lavished -on Narina, who, in the intoxicating delight of the moment, scarcely -knew whether she was in heaven or earth. She felt her arms, her feet, -her head; and the touch of her dress and ornaments caused fresh -pleasure every moment. He then produced a small mirror, more faithful -than the lake or stream which had hitherto served for this purpose, and -put the finishing stroke to the picture by showing her her own image -reflected from its surface. His days now passed in one uninterrupted -series of feasts, visits, dances, amusements of every kind. Nothing -could have been more favourable to his views of studying Hottentot -manners; but with respect to his ulterior design of penetrating far -into the solitudes of the desert, the case was different, for his -followers contracted in these Circean bowers a disease from which -their chief himself, perhaps, was not altogether exempt; that is, an -effeminate aversion to fatigue, a secret repugnance to toil, and, what -was still worse, the habit of viewing dangers in the light thrown over -them by an enamoured fancy, which distorts even more powerfully than -the mirage of the desert. - -It was now three weeks since the departure of his messengers for -Kaffer-land, and he began to entertain apprehensions for their safety. -His attendants, who partook of the same fears, became more than ever -averse to advance eastward, and, as he was quickly informed by Klaas, -began to concert among themselves various schemes of desertion. The -camp at this period was stationed near a river, on the rich banks of -which his oxen were turned out to graze, under the care of several -Hottentots, who were kept by their fear of the Kaffers in a strict -attention to their duty. One day, when Le Vaillant was accidentally -detained in his tent, a messenger from the herdsmen arrived in -breathless haste, to announce the fearful intelligence that a party of -the enemy was approaching, and had already reached the opposite side -of the river. Klaas and four fusileers were immediately despatched to -reconnoitre, while the traveller called out and examined his forces -and his arms, and prepared to give the Kaffers a warm reception should -their intentions be found to be hostile; but it was shortly discovered -that they had been invited to his camp by his envoys, whom they had -accordingly accompanied on their return. - -Our traveller had with laudable patience acquired a knowledge of the -Hottentot language, but the people who now thronged his camp spoke -a different dialect, not one word of which could he conjecture the -meaning. But the languages of savages are easy in proportion as -they are simple and poor, and the acquisition of Greek or Arabic -would probably cost more pains and study than would render a man -master of half the uncultivated languages of the world. It was not -long, therefore, before he learned to disentangle, as it were, the -intertwisted sounds which re-echoed around him, and to assign a meaning -to them. The Kaffers employed much gesticulation and grimace in -speaking, which aided him, likewise, in divining their thoughts; and he -soon began to entertain reasonable hopes that an interpreter might not -always be necessary in his intercourse with this lively people. - -He imagined that his firearms, and the skill with which he made use of -them, inspired the Kaffers with wonder; but he was no doubt mistaken. -His fancy placed him among those simple tribes described by early -travellers and navigators, to whom our weapons were utterly unknown; -while the savages who were now his guests had frequently fought hand -to hand with the colonists, and not only beheld their firearms, but -learned, at the expense of their blood, how destructive they were. -This illusion, however, appears to have afforded him pleasure, and -he honestly cherished it; and as no injury can arise from it to the -reader, it will have been sufficient to allude to it thus briefly. - -The history of his intercourse with this people affords a striking -example of the incalculable benefits which one civilized man, who -possessed courage to make the experiment, might confer upon a wild -nation, whose Menû or Manco Capæ he would thus become. For genius the -Kaffers are decidedly superior to the Hottentots; and if the picture -which Le Vaillant draws of them be correct, it would require no very -extraordinary impulse to launch them into the career of civilization. -He saw them, however, but for a moment, as it were; for not long after -their arrival, it was discovered that several half-castes, or bastards, -as they are termed at the Cape, had been commissioned by the colonists -to insinuate themselves into his camp, for the purpose of discovering -whether or not he was entering into an alliance with the Kaffers. This, -at least, was the interpretation which, after all the information -he could obtain, he was induced to put upon the matter; but, like -Rousseau, he seems to have amused himself with the idea that spies -were continually placed upon his movements, and by this hypothesis he -explained many little events resulting much less from design than from -a fortuitous concourse of circumstances. Still, the poor Kaffers, who -had suffered grievously by the Dutch, fully participated in his alarm, -and made a precipitate retreat into their own country, but not before -they had given him a pressing invitation to follow them. - -Upon considering the state of the camp, and the inclinations of his -people, it was judged imprudent to attempt against their will to lead -them away farther from the colony; and therefore, selecting from -among them a small number of the bravest, and leaving the remainder -under the care of Swanspoel, he departed on his long-desired journey -into Kaffer-land. Upon quitting the encampment they ascended the -banks of the Great Fish River, and having forded its stream, entered -Kaffer-land, moving in a north-easterly direction. The whole plain -was covered with mimosa-trees, which, as Burckhardt observes, cast -but a scanty shade. They were, therefore, greatly exposed to the heat -of the sun, which was now intense. After marching for several days -in this manner through a country which had once been inhabited, but -was deserted now, and abandoned to the wild beasts, fires at night, -deserted kraal, gardens overrun with weeds, and fields, the culture -of which had recently been interrupted, inspired the belief that some -half-stationary, half-wandering hordes must be in the neighbourhood. - -The fatigue of the journey, united with a scarcity of water, began at -length to cause the luxuries of the camp and the neighbourhood of the -Great Fish River to be regretted; but although Le Vaillant himself -evidently shared to a certain degree in these regrets, he was still -unwilling to relinquish his enterprise before he caught a single -glimpse of the Kaffers. At length a small party was discovered, whose -dread of the whites equalled at least the terror with which they -themselves inspired the pusillanimous Hottentots. From these men Le -Vaillant learned that the greater part of the nation had retreated -far into the interior, and as his imagination, at this time, seems to -have exaggerated every difficulty and danger, for he was weary of the -journey, he gladly seized upon the first excuse for relinquishing his -enterprise, and returned with all possible celerity to his camp. - -All his thoughts and wishes now pointed towards the Cape. Narina and -the friendly Gonaquas in vain exerted their influence. The desert had -lost its charms. For the moment he was weary of travelling. However, -not to encounter in vain the fatigue of a long journey, he formed the -design of verging a little to the north of his former route, through -the immense solitudes of the Sneuw Bergen. The caravan, therefore, -quitted the vicinity of the sea, and proceeded towards the west through -forests of mimosa-trees, which were then in full flower, and imparted -all the charms of summer to the landscape. The extreme silence of the -nights during this part of the journey was sublime. All the functions -of life seemed for the time to be suspended; except that, at intervals, -the roaring of the lion resounded through the forests, startling the -echoes, and according to the interpretation of the fancy, hushing the -whole scene with terror. - -At length, on the 3d of January, 1782, he discovered in the north-west -the formidable summits of the Sneuw Bergen, which, though surrounded -on all sides by burning plains, it being in those southern latitudes -the height of summer, bore still upon its sides long ridges of snow. -Prodigious herds of antelopes, amounting to more than fifty thousand -in number, now crossed their route, driven by insufferable heat and -drought towards the north. The scenery every league became more dreary. -Wastes of sand, rocks piled upon each other, chasms, precipices, -barrenness, sublimity, but no pasturage; and men in want of the -necessaries of life regard as insipid whatever refuses to minister to -their wants. Thus we can account for the little interest with which the -sight of the Sneuw Bergen inspired Le Vaillant, who would otherwise -appear to have been constitutionally deprived of that masculine energy -which impels us rather to rejoice than be depressed at the sight of -steril and desolate mountains, seldom trodden but by the brave, and -seeming to have been expressly thrown up by nature as a rampart upon -which freedom might successfully struggle against the oppressors of -mankind. This is the true source of that indescribable delight with -which we all tread upon mountain soil. A secret instinct seems to -whisper to the heart the original design, if it may be said without -impiety, with which those inexpugnable fastnesses were fashioned by -the hand of God. “Here,” say we to ourselves, “here at least we may be -free;” and we look down from these arid heights with scorn upon the -possessors of the fattest pastures, if the mark of tyranny, like that -of the Beast in the Apocalypse, is set upon the soil. - -Le Vaillant’s enthusiasm, which greatly depended upon the state -of his animal spirits, was now evaporating rapidly. His care and -circumspection were likewise proportionably diminished, and, in -consequence, the want of provisions and water was frequently -experienced. To give a keener edge to these calamities and privations, -it was rumoured among his followers that the recesses of the snowy -mountains afforded a retreat to numerous Bushmans or banditti, men whom -necessity or inclination had arrayed in opposition to the laws, and -those who lived under their protection. Every privation was therefore -borne with greater impatience. They considered themselves as persons -wantonly exposed to danger by the caprice of their leader; hence his -authority was daily less and less respected. Nevertheless, he drew near -the mountains, and climbing up with difficulty to the summit of one of -their peaks, enjoyed the wide prospect it afforded. This satisfied his -curiosity, more particularly as three men, supposed to be bandits, were -discovered among the ravines, but made their escape at their approach. -A few days afterward one of these fierce robbers was killed in an -attempt to murder one of the Hottentots of the escort. - -The want of water, which they had already begun to experience, -continued to increase as they advanced. The oxen, like the men, -suffered extremely, and several of them dropped down, and were unable -to rise again. The feet of the dogs were exceedingly lacerated; they -limped along painfully, and with the greatest exertion. In one -word, every man and animal in the camp required repose; and with -inexpressible joy they at length saw the day of their arrival at the -Cape, which put an end to the toils and sufferings of sixteen months. - -Le Vaillant had not yet satisfied his locomotive passion, and had, -indeed, notwithstanding the interest which his adventures inspire, seen -but little of Africa. He now amused himself with visiting the various -districts of the colony, and, among other spots, the extreme point of -the promontory, which opposes its rocky snout to the eternal storms -and waves of the Southern Ocean. Here, as with a sombre melancholy, -he viewed the constant succession of the billows, which, confused and -foaming under the influence of the winds, hurled themselves against -the cliffs, a depression of soul came over him, and he compared -the phenomenon before him to the life of man, and the annihilation -which, according to his creed, succeeds it. This miserable dogma, the -offspring of insane reasoning, and a distrust in the power or goodness -of the Divinity, was at that period in dispute among the sophists -of Europe; but I pity the man who could make so bestial a creed the -companion of his soul amid the vast solitudes of the desert, where we -might expect that the very winds of heaven would have winnowed away so -vile a chaff, and rendered back its native whiteness and purity to the -mind. - -Returning to Cape Town, he began, but with less enthusiasm than on -the former occasion, his preparations for a second journey into the -interior. Experience, he imagined, had enabled him to improve upon his -former plans. He had seen the country, he had studied its inhabitants. -Had he not laid the foundation for almost certain success? The result -showed how dim, how bounded, how little to be depended upon is human -foresight. - -His followers were now more numerous than formerly: eighteen men, one -woman, three horses, thirteen dogs, three milch cows, eleven goats, and -fifty-two oxen. With this train he departed from Saldanha Bay, June -15th, 1782, directing his course towards the north, along the western -coast of Africa. During the early part of the journey, in the district -of the Twenty-four Rivers, he found the prodigious nests of the -Termites or white ant, which, though inferior in dimensions to those -described by other travellers, were yet four feet in height. These -ants, which are accounted a delicacy by the Chensu Karir, a wandering -people of the Deccan, are likewise eaten by the Hottentots, who seem to -regard them with a more favourable eye even than locusts, which are, -however, highly esteemed. - -Notwithstanding that, in pursuance of the advice of his Cape friends, -he had set out in the rainy season, the party had not advanced far -before the want of water was experienced. The men and oxen suffered -extremely, but the dogs were still more severely afflicted, and -several of them, after exhibiting symptoms of their approach to a -state bordering upon hydrophobia, ran off into the desert, where they -perished, or relapsed into their original wildness. The party was in -this position when Le Vaillant, whose mind was tortured by the most -gloomy forebodings, was startled from his reveries by the sharp cry -of a bird which was passing over his head. It was a mountain duck, -which, he doubted not, was proceeding towards a spring. He therefore -put his horse to the gallop, and earnestly pursuing the flight of the -bird with his eye, had very quickly the satisfaction of observing it -alight upon a great rock, where it disappeared. Persuaded that it had -stopped to drink, he clambered up the rock, and found in fact a large -basin, or hollow in the rock, filled with water, in which the duck was -gayly swimming about and amusing itself. He had not the ingratitude to -fire at it, but he frightened it away, in the hope that, not having -sufficiently quenched its thirst, it might fly to another cistern -within sight; but in this he was disappointed. They now laid up a -provision of water for several days, and having allowed all the cattle -to quench their thirst, proceeded on their journey. During those -excessive droughts, it was curious, when a shower came on, to behold -the contrivance of the animals: observing that whatever water fell upon -the sands was immediately absorbed and lost, while the quantity with -which their own bodies were drenched ran down in little tread-like -streams over their sides, they drew near to each other, and by applying -their mouths to those diminutive currents, thus succeeded in quenching -their excruciating thirst. I am surprised that, in the tremendous -extremities to which our traveller and his followers were reduced by -want of water, they never had recourse to a method which, disgusting -and terrible as it may seem, has, I believe, been successfully tried -for quenching thirst by other travellers, as well as by certain tribes -of savages; I mean, to drink the blood of the animals they slaughtered. -Man has no doubt a natural repugnance to such expedients, but may -yield, under the pressure of imperious necessity, to whatever means, -short of injustice, Providence may afford him of preserving life. - -Upon arriving, after extraordinary privations and fatigue, upon the -banks of the Elephant’s River, they indeed found water in abundance; -but there was no pasture for the cattle, not even under the shade of -the mimosas and willows which bordered the stream. All was burnt up. -They proceeded farther inland, therefore, in search of verdure, and -arrived on the banks of the Koïgnas, where they encamped upon a spot -called the “Bat’s Rock.” From the fresh footmarks of the lion in the -sand, they knew that there were enemies in the neighbourhood, and -accordingly were more than ordinarily cautious in keeping watch, and in -the kindling of their night-fires. But,-- - - Incidit in Scyllam qui vult evitare Charybdin: - -for no sooner had the fires begun to blaze, than there issued forth -from the hollows of the rocks myriads of bats, which, flittering hither -and thither, struck against their faces, and stunned them with their -obscene cries, until, no longer able to endure their clamour, they -struck their tents and decamped. Virgil probably derived the idea of -his famous description of the Harpies from some such adventure as this; -for he had travelled a good deal in the Grecian islands, where bats, I -believe, are numerous: - - At subitæ horrifico lapsu de montibus adsunt - Harpyiæ, et magnis quatiunt clangoribus alas, - Diripiuntque dapes, contactuque omnia fœdant - Immundo: tum vox tetrum dira inter odorem. - -Le Vaillant, who had a partiality for adventure, was here engaged -in one which I must describe at some length. Leaving the greater -number of his people encamped on the banks of the Elephant River, he -had descended with a small detachment to the seashore. Here a whale -was found, from which the Hottentots drew several skins of oil. The -traveller, having been disappointed in his expectations of meeting with -elephants on the right bank of the stream, concluded, with some degree -of probability, that they had crossed the river, and taken refuge on -the opposite side: he was therefore desirous of following them. But he -was near the mouth of the river, which, at all times wide and rapid, -had been exceedingly increased by the late rains, and now presented a -formidable appearance. Unhappily, he was incapable of swimming, and -for constructing a raft there was no time. After much consideration, -therefore, it was resolved to attempt the stream in a novel mode. The -trunk of a fallen tree was selected; the tent, with the garments of the -Hottentots, was fastened upon its centre, the oil-skins at each end; -while Le Vaillant himself, having suspended his watch and powder-flasks -about his neck, and tied all their fowling-pieces on his shoulders, got -astride upon the tree as soon as it was afloat. The Hottentots, having -fastened strips of leather to the end of the trunk, then jumped into -the water, and pushed off from the shore. They were four in number, -and it was agreed that two should tow the tree along, while the other -two pushed it forward from behind, taking these different offices in -turn. As long as they remained in smooth water their progress was -rapid. Nothing could appear more easy than their undertaking. They -laughed, they jested with each other, and already thought themselves -on the opposite shore. But their triumph was premature: for they had -no sooner entered the current than the tree became unmanageable; now -pitching forward upon the swimmers, now recoiling with invincible force -against those who laboured to impel it from behind; dragging the former -after it, submerging the latter in the waves. No jests were now heard. -Every limb was plied, every nerve strained, to force a way through the -impetuous current; every man exerted himself to the utmost; but the -river rushed along with irresistible violence, and instead of making -way towards the shore, they saw themselves hurried down by the stream -towards the sea, where inevitable death awaited them. Meanwhile Le -Vaillant perceived with dismay that their strength began to fail them. -They breathed short, their strokes became irregular, their efforts -grew fainter and fainter; yet they tugged desperately at the tree, -apparently resolved at least to perish at their posts, and to share the -fate of him whom they could not save. Still they drew nearer and nearer -to the sea, and their hopes diminished in proportion. Observing this, -the two men who had been placed in the rear sprang forward, and by -their united strength endeavoured to force along the trunk. At length -Le Vaillant thought he perceived a diminution in the violence of the -current, and this discovery being communicated to the swimmers, they -redoubled their efforts, and in a few minutes one of them found that -he could touch the bottom. This he announced by a loud cry of joy, -which was re-echoed by the others. They now began to recover their -tranquillity, and pushing forward with vigour, were quickly landed on -the shore. Here they joyously kindled an immense fire, and having along -with them a small quantity of brandy, they drank it, dried themselves, -and next day departed on their return to the camp. - -Here fresh troubles awaited the traveller. His oxen were dying of -hunger and fatigue; his followers were discouraged; even his own -resolution was shaken. But the shame of succumbing to surmountable -difficulties,--of entertaining a base fear of dangers which other -men had braved,--of returning, in fact, baffled and defeated to the -Cape, urged him forward, and he accordingly struck his tents, and -moved once more towards the north. Courage and intrepidity are of vast -importance in every circumstance of life, in none more so than in -the circumstances in which an African traveller is placed; but these -virtues will not draw wagons, or silence the murmurs of the appetite -when clamouring for food. Le Vaillant was prepared to endure, and he -cheerfully abandoned his chariots in the desert when oxen were wanting -to drag them along; but he abandoned at the same time much of that -merchandise with which he was accustomed to purchase the friendship and -aid of the savage, and from that moment all rational hope of traversing -the whole continent, from the Cape of Good Hope to the Mediterranean, -vanished. He continued his journey, however, from the laudable desire -of performing what he could, though what he had projected might prove -impracticable. - -Le Vaillant’s difficulties were far from being imaginary. Thirst, -that most maddening of human privations, was now felt once more, and -the parched herbage afforded neither nourishment nor cooling juices -to the cattle. All their hopes now centred in those thunderstorms -which, at certain seasons of the year, are common in southern Africa, -and the jocular extravagance of Aristophanes, who represents men as -cloud-worshippers, was now scarcely an exaggeration: for both our -traveller and his followers almost bowed down in religious adoration -to every cloud that sailed aloft in the blue firmament, and seemed to -announce a tempest. At length vast masses of black vapour began to -gather together in heaps over their heads, and to spread in sombre -files along the sky. Flashes of lightning were perceived on the edge of -the horizon; and all the forerunners of a storm successively presented -themselves to their delighted senses. - -It came at length. “I heard,” says the traveller, “the sound of some -large drops, the happy precursors of an abundant shower. All my senses, -dilated at once by joy and gladness, unfolded themselves to the vital -influence. I crept out from under my covering, and lying down on my -back, with my mouth open, I received with delight the drops which -chanced to fall on me, every one of which seemed to be a refreshing -balm to my parched lips and tongue. I repeat it, the purest pleasure -of my whole life was what I tasted in that delicious moment, which -had been purchased by so many sighs and hours of anguish. It was not -long before the shower poured down from all sides; during three hours -it fell in torrents, seeming in noise to rival the thunder, which all -the while continued roaring over our heads. My people ran about in all -directions through the storm, seeking for one another, with triumphant -mutual congratulations for the drenching they experienced; for they -felt themselves revived; and appeared as if desirous of inflating -their bodies that they might thus offer a larger surface to the rain, -and imbibe a greater quantity of it. For my own part, I enjoyed so -delicious a pleasure in soaking myself like them, that, in order the -longer to preserve the refreshing coolness, I would not at first change -my dress, which I was at length, however, compelled to do by the cold.” - -On the following night one of his followers disappeared, a circumstance -which, as they were now in the country of the Bushmen, to whom it was -possible the fugitive might betray them, was a source of peculiar -uneasiness. However, after causing considerable alarm among the whole -party, each of whom indulged a different conjecture, the man returned, -announcing the discovery of a Hottentot kraal at no great distance. -Towards this spot the whole party immediately proceeded, again and -again quenching their thirst on the way, in reservoirs of crystal -purity, which had been formed in the hollows of the rocks by the recent -storm. Arrived, Le Vaillant found that the horde of which they had come -in search was fortunately that of a man to whom he had been strongly -recommended by a friend at the Cape. He was received with hospitality. -The chief, flattered by the visit, undertook for a time to become his -guide; and having generously and successfully exerted himself for -the recovery of the chariots abandoned in the desert, and performed -numerous other kind offices for his guest, the caravan was once more -put in motion. - -In the evening, on their arriving at the halting-place, Le Vaillant -observed with surprise a tent, guarded by Hottentots, pitched a -little in advance of him; and upon inquiry, found that it belonged to -a M. Pinard, one of the individuals he had rejected at Cape Town. A -presentiment of evil immediately flashed upon his mind. He regarded -the tent with inquietude. Misfortune seemed to perch upon its summit. -And in the sequel he learned, with vexation, how well-founded his -apprehensions had been. However, for the moment, the encounter seemed -to offer nothing but pleasure. Pinard was the bearer of letters from -some of his dearest friends, and to a man of sound feelings a person -thus armed is irresistible; but to an evil disposition the very -counterfeiting of goodness is too painful long to be endured. Our Dutch -adventurer, whose wealth chiefly consisted in brandy, a commodity which -experience had taught him was omnipotent with Hottentots, seemed to -consider his casks as too weighty, and habitually exerted himself in -diminishing the burden. In one word, he was a drunkard; and having -indulged himself with an extraordinary dose on the very evening of Le -Vaillant’s arrival, the brandy-casks were abandoned to the Hottentots, -and in a short time both camps were a scene of wild revelry and -intoxication. - -To those who have observed the manners of savages, whether in our -own country or in the woods, it must be well known that the Circean -transformations are not fabulous. Brandy has everywhere the power -of changing men into beasts, and into beasts which are the more -dangerous, inasmuch as they retain, under their new forms, a memory -morbidly retentive, which seems to rejoice at its escape from the -restraints of reason. Le Vaillant’s followers, having nothing to -fear from the reproaches of decorum, now plunged into the delights -of drunkenness with an avidity which appeared as if intended as an -imputation on his want of generosity; for they considered his prudent -economy as a niggardly doling out of a necessary of life, brandy being -by them regarded in that light. Though he had given orders that the -caravan should be put in motion at the break of day, the men, with -the exception of Klaas and two or three of his companions, were all -furiously intoxicated before the oxen could be yoked to the wagons. -Even old Swanspoel, who had hitherto conducted himself with prudence, -yielded to the seduction, and endeavouring with reeling steps to mount -the wagon, his foot slipped, and he rolled under the wheel, which -immediately passed over his body. Le Vaillant, who loved the old man, -feared he had been crushed to pieces; but it was afterward found, upon -examination, that he merely had two ribs broken; though this fracture -caused him such terrible anguish on the road, that he conjured his -master, with clasped hands, to blow out his brains with one of his -pistols. As our traveller was utterly ignorant of surgery, it was -necessary to leave the treatment of the fracture to nature. The pain, -meanwhile, was excruciating, and in order to blunt its point, the old -Hottentot continued to drink immoderate quantities of brandy, which, as -it failed to kill him, obtained, in the sequel, the honour of a cure. -In six weeks he was able to resume his occupations. - -At length, after enduring his company with a patience which it were -easier to praise than to imitate, he separated from Pinard. He now -discovered another remarkable person, a sailor, who, having deserted -from the Dutch navy, had retired into the wilderness, where he had -adopted, as far as possible, the manners of a savage; married several -wives, by whom he had numerous children, and laid the foundation of -what might have proved a powerful horde. But this individual affords -an example of how difficult it is for the civilized man, of whatever -rank he may be, to retrograde; for, although possessed of considerable -wealth, and, which is still sweeter, of independence, and the germs -of power, he yearned after that society in which he must always be as -nothing; and afterward, upon Le Vaillant’s obtaining him his pardon, -deserted his harem, returned with his children to the colony, married, -and sunk into the dull lethargy of ordinary Dutch life. - -This man, whose name was Shoenmaker, became our traveller’s guide -through the neighbouring regions. They continued still to advance -towards the north, passed through the countries of the Lesser and -Greater Namaquas, and arrived at length in the district in which -the giraffe is found. Here all his ardour for the chase was at once -revived by the sight of one of these animals’ skins, which, in one -of the kraals he visited, served as a covering to a hut. A few days -afterward, while he was admiring the nest of the constructor bird, one -of his Namaqua guides came in great haste to inform him that he had -just seen a giraffe browsing upon the leaves of a mimosa-tree. “In an -instant,” says the traveller, “I mounted my horse, being intoxicated -with joy, and causing Bernfry” (a deserter from the colony whom he -encountered in the desert) “to follow my example, I hurried with my -dogs towards the mimosa-tree. The giraffe was no longer there. We saw -her crossing the plain towards the west, and put spurs to our horses -in order to overtake her. She then got into an easy trot, but did not -seem at all hurried. We galloped after her, firing at her from time to -time; but she insensibly gained ground upon us in such a manner that, -after continuing the chase for three hours, we were compelled to stop, -our horses being out of breath, and we immediately lost sight of her.” -He now found himself alone, at a distance from his camp; and, what -was worse, knew not how to shape his course towards it. Meantime he -suffered considerably from thirst and hunger; but having killed and -cooked some birds, his wants were soon satisfied, and he had leisure -for reflection. In the midst of his reveries he was found by some of -his attendants, and conducted back to the camp. Next day the hunting -of the giraffe was continued with equally bad success. On the third -day seven of these animals were discovered, and immediately pursued by -his dogs. “Six of them,” says he, “went off together; but the seventh, -cut off by my pack, took a different direction. Bernfry, who happened -just then to be on foot, immediately vaulted into the saddle, and set -off in pursuit of the former. I pursued the latter at all speed; but in -spite of the swiftness of my horse, she gained upon me so much that, on -turning a small eminence, I lost sight of her, and gave up the chase. -My dogs, however, had quickly overtaken her, and pressed her so closely -that she was compelled to stop in her own defence. From the place where -I was I heard them give tongue with all their might; but as their -voices all appeared to come from the same spot, I conjectured that -they had got the animal into some corner, and I again pushed forwards. -As soon as I had turned the hill, I in fact discovered her surrounded -by the dogs, and making desperate efforts to drive them off by heavy -kicks. In a moment I was on my feet, and a single shot from my carbine -brought her to the earth. Enchanted with my victory, I returned to call -my people about me, that they might skin and cut up the animal. As I -was looking about, I observed Klaas Bastard eagerly making signals -to me, which I could not at first comprehend; but on turning towards -the direction in which he pointed, I perceived a giraffe assailed by -my dogs under an ebony-tree. Supposing it to be another animal, I ran -towards it; but it was the same, which had risen again, and just as I -was about to fire a second time dropped down dead. - -“Who could have believed that a conquest like this would have excited -me to a transport almost approaching to madness! Pains, fatigues, cruel -privations, uncertainty as to the future, disgust sometimes as to the -past--all these recollections and feelings fled at the sight of this -new prey. I could not satisfy my desire to contemplate it. I measured -its enormous height. I looked from the animal to the instrument which -had destroyed it. I called and recalled my people about me. Although -we had combated together the largest and the most dangerous animals, -it was I alone who had killed the giraffe. I was now able to add to -the riches of natural history; I was now able to destroy the romance -which attached to this animal, and to establish a truth. My people -congratulated me on my triumph. Bernfry alone was absent; but he came -at last, walking at a slow pace, and holding his horse by the bridle. -He had fallen from his seat, and injured his shoulder. I heard not what -he said to me. I saw not that he wanted assistance; I spoke to him only -of my victory. He showed me his shoulder; I showed him my giraffe. I -was intoxicated, and I should not have thought even of my own wounds.” - -He now paid a visit to the Kameniqua horde. His camp abounded with -provisions; but his people, who had for some time been accustomed to -the company of women, drew so many of these fair ones about them, that -it was feared nothing else would be thought of. However, Le Vaillant -was obliged to wink at this irregularity, to prevent the desertion -of the whole body, and his complaisance, as it happened, drew after -it no evil consequences. In proceeding through the country of the -Greater Namaquas he arrived at a kraal, which had been thrown by the -death of its chief into the utmost confusion, and, upon his making -strenuous exertions to restore order, was himself elected chief. This -dignity, however, he delegated to another, and had the satisfaction of -observing, at his departure, tranquillity and good order taking the -place of discord and bloodshed. - -Our traveller now drew near the country of the most extraordinary -people which he ever met with during his travels. These were the -Hoozwanas, a nation by the Hottentots confounded with the Bushmen, but -which, in the opinion of Le Vaillant, differed from them entirely; -as while the latter were a collection of vagabonds from all nations, -living in holes and caves, and subsisting chiefly by plunder, the -former were as nearly as possible homogeneous. They differed in a -remarkable manner from the Hottentots in being enterprising and brave, -and enjoyed among their neighbours so great a reputation for these -qualities, that their very name was a talisman which struck terror -into all who heard it. For this reason Le Vaillant could not, in this -instance, pursue his ordinary practice of sending forward native -ambassadors or agents to prepare him a welcome reception among the -horde. At the bare mention of the Hoozwanas his followers and allies -felt their blood curdle with fear, and not only refused to advance -before him, but endeavoured likewise to dissuade him from the attempt, -which, in their opinion, could terminate no otherwise than fatally. - -Le Vaillant, who remembered their vain terrors in the case of the -Kaffers, was thoroughly convinced that their present apprehensions -had no better foundation. His wagons and a considerable number of -his attendants had been left encamped on the banks of the Gariep, or -Orange River; he was now resolved rather to dismiss the remainder, and -proceed alone, than shrink from his undertaking; and Klaas and five -of his companions voluntarily engaging to undertake the expedition, -he informed the remainder that they were at liberty to depart, their -services being no longer required. But if they were afraid to advance, -to retreat seemed no less terrible; so that, whipped into enterprise by -their very fears, they one and all announced their readiness to follow -the fortunes of their chief. - -He therefore proceeded towards the north; but, while he despised the -fears of his Hottentots, and somewhat doubted the correctness of their -representations, he nevertheless considered it prudent to move along -in a guarded manner, seeing that every thicket might contain an enemy. -For some days silence and solitude prevailed around. There appeared no -traces of man; or if any human beings ever started up in the distance, -it was only to flit immediately away like phantoms among the rocks -and sandhills, leaving behind them strong doubts of the reality of -their apparition. Meanwhile their route led them over a burning desert, -covered with saline dust, which, lifted up by the winds, entered -their eyes and almost maddened them. The vehement heat of the sun, -from which no contrivance could wholly shield them, likewise began to -disorder their senses and their imaginations; so that, like mariners in -a calenture, they saw mountains, green fields, or groves, or running -streams, where in reality there was nothing but a prodigious plateau of -scorching sand. - -At length, upon halting in the evening, they observed, as the darkness -came on, several vast fires among the peaks of the distant hills, which -they doubted not belonged to the Hoozwanas. With this discovery all -their old terrors returned. The watch, therefore, it may be easily -imagined, was vigilant that night; and as soon as the morning appeared, -Le Vaillant, taking a few of his attendants along with him, proceeded -to reconnoitre. The scene which now presented itself was desolate -beyond description. Steep ridges of barren rock, rising from a plain of -sand, and broken into ravines, gullies, chasms, precipices; beyond a -few stunted, miserable plants, no signs of life; while a dead silence -brooded over all, save when the wild daman sent forth its shrill cry -from among the rocks, or when the vulture or the eagle screamed aloft -over their heads. - -After a fatiguing march through these savage mountains, they reached -a slender stream which flowed from a narrow opening in the rocks, and -discovered upon its banks a small Hoozwana encampment. No persons but -a few women were visible; but upon their uttering a cry of alarm, the -men immediately rushed out, armed with bows and arrows, and taking -their families along with them, retreated, and took up their position -on a small eminence commanding their huts. Failing to make himself -understood by the ordinary signs of friendship and good-will, he -advanced towards their huts, deposited a quantity of beads and tobacco, -and then retired to observe their movements. When they considered -him at a sufficient distance, they returned, and upon examining the -presents exhibited tokens of extraordinary satisfaction; but upon the -approach of the traveller a second time they again retreated, though -to a smaller distance than before. He now resolved to endeavour, by -going forward alone and unarmed, to remove their apprehensions; and, -taking in his hand a new present, he proceeded towards them. This -manœuvre succeeded. One of the savages immediately came to meet him; -and addressing him in the Hottentot language, demanded who he was, and -whence he came. Le Vaillant replied that he was a traveller, desirous -of examining the country, and, if possible, of finding friends in it. -The man then came up to him. The Hottentots likewise drew near, and -entered into conversation with the stranger, who, they found, belonged -to their nation. Observing that no evil had befallen their friend, the -remainder of the horde now joined the group, and were rendered, by a -few trifling presents, as friendly and peaceful in their deportment as -the least ferocious of the Hottentot tribes. - -The manners of this people were remarkable. They remained in their -rocky fastnesses, to which they were habitually confined by the -hostility of their neighbours, as long as the gazelles, white ants, or -locusts, which abound in those districts, afforded them provisions. -When a scarcity happened, however, then wo to the surrounding nations. -They stood upon the lofty summits of their mountains, and casting their -eyes around, selected for the scene of their desperate foray the region -which presented the richest aspect. Flocks and herds were seized, and -killed upon the spot, or driven to the mountains, as circumstances -required; but, unless when attacked and put in actual peril, the -Hoozwanas abstained from shedding human blood. Their appearance, when -engaged in war, was peculiarly striking. Naked, excepting that small -portion of the body which instinct alone teaches man to conceal, they -yet wore a species of helmet or war-cap on their heads, upon which -there was a crest formed of the hyena’s mane. Though considerably below -the middle size, their well-formed active bodies, and daring character, -the evidence of which was deeply written in their countenance, -admirably fitted them for warriors. In peace, however, no men could -exhibit more gentleness, or regard for strangers; and our traveller -observes, that had he attempted the traversing the African continent -from the Cape to the Mediterranean, he should have chiefly founded his -hopes of success on the active, faithful character of the Hoozwanas. - -The Hoozwana women exhibited that peculiar conformation of the nates -which is generally supposed to be a characteristic of the Hottentot -race. With the latter, however, it is the growth of years, and -commences only at a late period of life; while in the former it is -a portion of the original form with which the infant is born, and -which increases merely in proportion as the whole body is developed. -Upon this strange projection mothers carry their children, which, -when two or three years old, stand upon it as a footman does behind a -carriage. But, notwithstanding that they were in this respect deformed, -they possessed hands and arms of extraordinary beauty. They wore the -war-bonnet and sandals like their husbands; but were in other respects -naked, with the exception of a small apron. A small wooden, ivory, or -tortoise-shell case hung by their side, in which they carried their -ointment; and the tail of some small animal, fastened on a staff, -served, instead of a pocket handkerchief, to wipe away the dust or -perspiration from their faces. - -Having spent some time in the country of the Hoozwanas, he bent his -course towards his camp on the Gariep, his gallant hosts serving him as -guides across the mountains. In the course of the journey one of the -oxen threw from off its back the box of toys and cutlery, which, making -a frightful clatter, terrified the animal, which ran off roaring in a -furious manner. Le Vaillant, in endeavouring to force it back, found -himself engaged in a dangerous adventure; for, instead of returning -towards his companions, it rushed impetuously at the horse, which, -springing suddenly aside, threw his rider and took to flight. The ox -now rushed with stooping head at the traveller, who, having fortunately -fallen with his musket in his hand, pointed his piece, and carefully -levelling it at his enemy, fired, and shot him dead upon the spot. - -This accident seemed to be merely the forerunner of that which happened -immediately after his arrival at the camp. He had crossed the Gariep -with his tents and baggage; but the oxen, never having seen so broad a -stream, could by no means whatever be induced to attempt the passage. -They resisted all the efforts of their drivers, and even their very -blows seemed to render them more stubborn. It was therefore determined -to take them farther up the stream, and renew their endeavours next -morning. The herdsmen, however, rendered heedless or confident by the -vicinity of the camp, fell asleep, and allowed their fires to die away. -At this moment the Bushmen, who had been lying in wait for them, stole -quietly into the circle, and, driving off the oxen, escaped, and before -the break of day were already far on their way towards their secret -haunts. - -Next morning, early, Le Vaillant was suddenly awakened by Klaas, who -informed him of what had happened; and counselled him to arm a number -of his followers, and pursue the robbers. This advice was instantly -adopted. He took thirteen of the bravest, and following the track of -the oxen, which was visible enough upon the sand, during six hours, -found that it struck off from the river. Here they passed the night. -Next morning before day they continued the pursuit, and finding that -the herd had been divided into two parts, pursued the track of the -more numerous, not doubting that the division had been made merely -for the purpose of distracting their attention. From a Hottentot -village by which they passed they obtained two guides, who, being -perfectly acquainted with the country, undertook to conduct them to the -hiding-places of the Bushmen. They therefore again set forward, and -after tracking the robbers for several leagues, found that they had -crossed the river, in which they discovered the body of one of the oxen -which had been drowned in the passage. The stream being here deep and -rapid rendered the passage both difficult and dangerous. They, however, -succeeded in gaining the opposite shore, but what was their vexation -when, having ascended a short distance up the river, it was perceived -that the artful bandits had again crossed, and were therefore on the -other side. This manœuvre was repeated three times, for so frequently -had the Bushmen crossed and recrossed the stream. But at length the -track was lost in the path leading to a kraal, in which, therefore, -they concluded the oxen must be concealed. - -The guides, fearful lest their presence among the traveller’s -attendants might occasion a war between these bandits and their -nation, here demanded permission to remain behind during the attack -upon the kraal, and their request was unhappily complied with. Le -Vaillant himself, conceiving that darkness would be favourable to -his views, resolved to defer the execution of his project until -night. They accordingly encamped upon the spot, and a little after -midnight set off in the greatest silence. “Soon afterward,” says he, -“we perceived, at the distance of about three-quarters of a league, -the light of several fires; and advancing a little farther, we heard -songs, cries of joy, and immoderate shouts of laughter. The bandits -were amusing themselves, and making good cheer at my expense. Their -clamour, however, had one good effect; for my dogs began to set up so -loud a barking on drawing near the kraal, that it became necessary to -muzzle them, so that but for the frightful tumult within we should -infallibly have been betrayed. I was now, therefore, in a state of -warfare with savages, and resolved to employ against them the resources -of art, should they oppose me with superior force. The moment not being -favourable for commencing the attack, I put it off until the break -of day, and in order to conduct it in the most advantageous manner, -I intrenched myself and my troop behind a copse, which, by affording -us an impenetrable shield against the attacks of our enemies, would -render our own doubly terrible. The copse, in fact, was sufficiently -extensive to contain and conceal all my musketeers; and each of us, by -pushing aside or breaking off a few branches, immediately formed a sort -of porthole through which we could fire. In this position we patiently -and silently awaited the moment for action. The villains themselves -appeared, by their conduct, to favour our views. Their noisy merriment -died away by degrees; and at length, yielding to fatigue, they retired -into their huts to rest, and the noise entirely ceased. - -“The day soon appeared, when we discovered that the position we had -taken up was too far from the kraal. Leaving our oxen, and my two -horses, ready saddled in case of a defeat, behind the bushes, under the -care of one of my people, we advanced, therefore, and posted ourselves -within gunshot of the kraal. It was a considerable hamlet, consisting -of not less than thirty or forty huts, and occupied the slope of a -hill, behind which a range of high mountains swept round in the form -of an amphitheatre. Though our muskets were all loaded, it was not -my intention to commence hostilities with the effusion of blood. I -designed merely to alarm the brigands, and by the consternation caused -by a sudden attack, to compel them to take to flight. For this reason -I commanded my followers to fire in the air, and on no account to take -aim at a single individual unless by my express orders. I began the -assault by firing my large carbine, the report of which, multiplied by -the echoes of the neighbouring mountains, produced a terrible noise. -We had persuaded ourselves that at the sound of this thunder the whole -horde would fly in consternation, and my companions were preparing to -augment their terrors by a general discharge. But, to our astonishment, -not a creature appeared. It was in vain that we fired round after -round; every thing remained calm, and I knew not what to conjecture. -This security was merely apparent. While external appearances announced -sleep and peace, every soul within was given up to terror and -confusion. But by a stratagem to which they, no doubt, had been long -accustomed, no one wished to appear before the whole body were armed; -and it is probable that they communicated with each other by signals. -When they were ready for battle, they all at the same moment rushed out -of their huts, and advancing with frightful howlings towards us, let -fly a cloud of arrows, which falling far short of their mark, we still -replied to by firing over their heads. Observing that none of their -party were hurt, they began to imagine that our muskets would not carry -so far, and therefore uniting into one body, they came on with fury. We -awaited the assault with firmness. My people, in the mean time, called -aloud to them to restore my oxen. Whether they heard us or not I cannot -determine; but they had now advanced so near that their arrows fell -about us in showers. I now thought it full time to fire in earnest, -and issuing my orders to aim at their bodies, we fired several volleys -in rapid succession, and had very quickly the satisfaction to see -this numerous band of men scattered about like emmets, flying in all -directions, and uttering fearful shrieks, which were no longer, as at -first, cries of valour and defiance, but the howlings of despair. Their -wives and children had retreated, during the combat, to the summit of -the hill, where the oxen were grazing; and it was thither that they -now fled; whence, having rapidly collected the cattle, they plunged -down into the hollow on the opposite side, and disappeared. Being well -persuaded that, should they once reach the defiles of the mountains, -all pursuit would be vain, I mounted my horse, and dividing my men into -two bodies, directed one party to cut off their retreat on one side, -while I myself with the remainder should attack them on the other. It -was not many minutes before we discovered the savages hurrying down the -hill towards a plain, in which there was a small wood; and, in fact, -the greater number of them quickly disappeared a second time, but those -who drove the cattle were necessarily more slow, and seeing us close -upon their heels, they likewise took to flight, leaving the oxen behind -them. At this moment my other detachment coming up, fired at them, and -stretched one of their number upon the earth. The rest escaped.” - -Having thus regained possession of his cattle, and fearing he might -fall into some ambush laid for him by the savages, he hastened back -to the kraal, where he found their own herd. In lieu of one of the -oxen which had been killed and eaten, he took away a young cow and two -sheep, and hurried towards the spot where he had left his Kameniqua -guides. Here he was shocked by a very horrible spectacle. One of the -men had been torn to pieces during the night, and the other likewise -had suffered severely. They had, in fact, neglected to keep alive their -fire, and had been attacked by a lion in their sleep. Le Vaillant -caused them to be placed upon his horses, and carried along with them; -but abandoned the dying man at the first halting-place. The other -eventually recovered. - -Though dogged all the way by the Bushmen, he reached his camp in -safety, from whence, having now entirely abandoned the idea of -traversing the African continent, he turned his face southwards, and -directed his course towards the Cape. His constitution had considerably -suffered during this journey, and he suddenly began to experience -unequivocal symptoms of illness. While he was in this condition he -encountered a white family, who, having endured signal misfortunes in -the world, had succeeded in snapping asunder the links which ordinarily -bind men to society, and were now, with a few Hottentot servants, and a -wagon which contained all their worldly possessions, proceeding towards -Namaqua-land in search of a better fortune than they had hitherto met -with. Le Vaillant, who could easily read indolence and inactivity in -the countenance of the father, was still deeply interested in his -fate, by an air of goodness which accompanied the indication of those -qualities; and anticipating the consent of the owner, he bestowed upon -them a small house and ground in the vicinity, four sheep, a goat, -a dog, together with a quantity of toys and cutlery, wherewith to -purchase the friendship of the savages. With these riches they departed -on their way, blessing the friendly hand which had enabled them to live -in comfort, and praying for the happiness of him who, under Providence, -had been the creator of theirs. - -He now pushed forward to the banks of the Kansi, where his progress -was put a stop to by a buinsy, accompanied by violent fever. This -disease is generally mortal in Africa. Of this circumstance he was -perfectly aware, and accordingly from the beginning began to fear the -worst, and gave himself up for lost. But his followers, who, with -ignorance of physic equal to his own, indulged more sanguine hopes, -requested his permission to apply the only remedy known among them; -and having obtained his consent, applied round his neck towels dipped -in boiling milk, until the skin was nearly scalded off. This treatment -was continued during three days; but finding no benefit from it, he -abandoned the physicians, and resolved to leave the whole to nature. -Meanwhile his condition was alarming. His throat and tongue were so -much swelled that he could swallow nothing but a few drops of weak tea, -and at length lost entirely the power of speaking, except by signs. -The fears of his Hottentots were no less than his own. When Klaas or -Swanspoel entered his tent, the other attendants would thrust their -black woolly heads in after them, in the expectation of gathering -from their looks whether there was still any hope. Such was the state -of the case when several persons of the Lesser Namaqua horde arrived -in the camp, among the rest a little man, who, when informed of the -disorder of the chief, immediately undertook his cure. Our traveller, -willing to make trial of every means within his power, permitted the -Hottentot Æsculapius to treat him as he pleased; and had once more to -endure a hot cataplasm on his throat, which, together with a gargle of -sage-juice, formed the whole remedy. In the course of one night his -freedom of respiration and the power of swallowing were restored, and -in three days he was well. - -This danger being over, Le Vaillant returned to the Cape, dismissed his -Hottentots, and taking leave of his South African friends, set sail -for Europe, July 14th, 1784. He arrived in Paris in the beginning -of the January following, and from thenceforward his whole life was -occupied in putting his collections in order, in compiling the account -of his travels, and in composing the various works which he afterward -published or left in MS. on the natural history of the birds and -quadrupeds of Africa.--Though his occupations were thus simple and -peaceful, he was not able during the stormy days of the Revolution -to escape unsuspected; he was apprehended and imprisoned in 1793, -and is supposed to have escaped the guillotine only by the fall of -Robespierre. His habitual residence during the latter part of his life -was on a small estate that he possessed at La Noue, near Sezanne. -There, when not engaged in his literary labours, he amused himself with -hunting; and in this manner he lived during nearly thirty years. He -died on the 22d of November, 1824. During the whole of that time he had -seldom quitted his retreat to visit Paris, except for the purpose of -seeing his works through the press. His “Travels,” upon which his hopes -of fame must chiefly rest, appear to have occupied him nearly eleven -years, the first part having been published in 1790, and the second in -1796. It has often been asserted, says M. Eyriès, that these travels -were compiled from the author’s notes by Casimir Varron but this is a -mistake; he merely read the proof sheets for the purpose of correction, -Le Vaillant not being sufficiently acquainted with the French language -to enable him to confide in his own judgment. - -It was Le Vaillant who first made the giraffe known in France, and the -stuffed specimen in the king’s collection is the one which was brought -over by him. His other works are, “The Natural History of the Birds of -Africa,” of the parroquet, and of the birds of Paradise. The figures, -designed under his inspection by Barraband, are said to possess great -merit; and his scientific works occupy the first rank among books of -that kind. - - - - -BELZONI. - - -This able and interesting traveller, descended from a respectable -Roman family, was born at Padua, whither his relations had many years -previously removed. Being designed by his parents for some monastic -order, he was at a very early age sent to Rome, the original abode of -his ancestors, where he received his education, and spent the greater -part of his youth. Here the sciences would appear to have obtained -a decided preference in his mind, over every other branch of study; -particularly hydraulics, to which he owed the reputation which he -afterward acquired in the world, and a success which was by no means -equal to his deserts. The invasion of Italy, and the capture of Rome by -the French, disturbed the peaceful but insignificant plan of life which -he had traced out for himself. Instead of a monk he became a traveller. -Departing from Rome in the year 1800, he for some time wandered about -the Continent, deriving his subsistence, as he himself observes, from -his own knowledge and industry, and occasional remittances from his -family, who, though by no means wealthy, seem to have been generously -disposed to afford him a support, which he, in a short time, no less -generously refused to accept. - -In the year 1803 he arrived in England, where he not long afterward -married. In this country he supported himself, as is well known, by -performing in public feats of prodigious strength, and by scientific -exhibitions; still, with a manly independence, preferring the gaining -of a precarious subsistence by these means to the idea of draining the -slender resources of his family, or of resorting to those more easy -but less reputable sources of gain which too frequently employ the -talents of foreigners in England. Having remained nine years in Great -Britain, Belzoni conceived the desire of visiting the south of Europe; -and, taking his wife along with him, travelled through Portugal, Spain, -and Malta. It seems to have been during this part of his travels that -he learned, from what he considered unexceptionable authority, that his -scientific knowledge might be turned to good account in Egypt, where an -hydraulic machine would be of the greatest utility in irrigating the -fields, which want water only to make them produce at any season of the -year. - -He accordingly took his passage on board of some ship bound for Egypt, -and arrived in the harbour of Alexandria on the 9th of June, 1815. The -plague, he was informed, was now in the city, but gradually decreasing -in malignity. St. John’s day, the 24th of June, was likewise at hand, -on which it usually ceases entirely, through the interference, as the -vulgar believe, of the saint, but in reality from the intense heat of -the sun, which has by that time exhaled those damp miasmata which are -the immediate cause of the plague. Belzoni, who was accompanied by his -wife and a young Irish lad, named Curtain, landed, notwithstanding the -disease; and having remained secluded in the occale, or khun, until -after the 24th, set off for Cairo. On reaching this city, where he -meant to make an offer of his services to the pasha, to whose principal -interpreter he brought letters of recommendation, he obtained lodgings -in an old house, which from its vast size and ruinous condition would -have made a handsome figure in one of Mrs. Ratcliffe’s romances. Though -antiquities, as he observes, were not at that time his object, he could -not refrain from visiting the Pyramids. He accordingly accompanied an -English gentleman to the spot, where they passed the night, and long -before dawn had ascended the summit of the highest pile, to behold the -sun rise over the land of Egypt. - -“The scene here,” says he, “is majestic and grand far beyond -description: a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a veil, which -ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose, and unveiled to the -view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view -of the smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vast -capital; while the solemn endless spectacle of the desert, on the west, -inspired us with reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile -lands on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descending -towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its minarets, at -the foot of the Mokatam mountain, on the east; the beautiful plain -which extends from the Pyramids to that city; the Nile, which flows -magnificently through the centre of the Sacred Valley; and the thick -groves of palm-trees under our eyes, altogether formed a scene of which -a very imperfect idea can be given by the most elaborate description.” - -A few days after his return to Cairo he was to have been presented -to the pasha, but on the way to the citadel was attacked and wounded -by a Turkish soldier in such a manner that he was compelled to defer -his presentation for thirty days. Mohammed Ali had not at that time -properly established his power; for, when informed of the injury which -had been inflicted on his guest, he only observed that such accidents -were not to be prevented in cities filled with troops. This point -was very soon made still clearer. In a few days the soldiers burst -out into open rebellion, pillaged the inhabitants, committed every -description of atrocity, and pursued his highness himself into his -castle, where they for some time held him besieged. When this storm -had blown over, Belzoni, whose hydraulic project was highly approved -of by the pasha, commenced the construction of his machine in his -highness’s gardens at Soubra, three miles from Cairo. As Mohammed Ali -is not bigotedly attached to oriental fashions, he freely permitted -Belzoni to be witness of his amusements, which he was sometimes even -called upon to multiply. During his stay at Soubra business frequently -required his presence at Cairo, where, on one occasion, he narrowly -escaped being shot by a Turkish soldier. The ruffian having struck -him in the street, he returned the blow; upon which the Turk drew his -pistol, fired at him, singed his hair, and killed one of his comrades -who happened to be standing behind the traveller. The man was next day -apprehended by the pasha, and never more heard of. When the hydraulic -machine was completed, its power was made trial of in the presence of -Mohammed, who, perceiving that as an innovation it was regarded with -extraordinary dislike by the Turkish and Arabic cultivators, abandoned -the project altogether, without even remunerating the traveller for the -loss of time and money which he had incurred. - -Notwithstanding these circumstances, which reflect but little honour -on Mohammed Ali, Belzoni found, upon calculation, that his finances -would still enable him to ascend the Nile as far as Assouan; and was -about to proceed up the country when Burckhardt and Mr. Salt, who had -previously discussed the point together, determined upon the removal -of the colossal head of young Memnon to England, for the purpose of -being presented to the British Museum; and requested our traveller, -as one of the fittest persons that could be thought of, to undertake -the task. The expenses Burckhardt and Mr. Salt were to defray between -them. A report was, it seems, circulated even during the lifetime of -Belzoni, and previous to the publication of his travels, that in this -affair he was merely the paid agent of Mr. Salt (for, as a professed -Mohammedan, Burckhardt did not choose to appear). This, however, was -clearly not the case. The expenses incurred in the undertaking they -could do no other than defray. Mr. Salt’s instructions are written, -as Belzoni himself observes, in an assuming style, but nevertheless -have not the air of being addressed to a paid agent. But the testimony -of Sheïkh Burckhardt, which I insert in justice to the memory of an -enterprising and worthy man, completely sets the matter at rest. In -a letter addressed to the African Association, dated Cairo, February -20th, 1817, he says, “You will be pleased to hear that the colossal -head from Thebes has at last, after many difficulties, safely arrived -at Alexandria. Mr. Belzoni, who offered himself to undertake this -commission, has executed it with great spirit, intelligence, and -perseverance. The head is waiting now at Alexandria for a proper -conveyance to Malta. Mr. Salt and myself have borne the expenses -jointly; and the trouble of the undertaking has devolved upon Mr. -Belzoni, whose name I wish to be mentioned, if ever ours shall, on this -occasion, because he was actuated by public spirit fully as much as -ourselves.” - -Few things are more interesting in themselves, or less captivating -in description, than a search after antiquities. Belzoni, after -visiting Hermontis and Dendara, arrived at Thebes, which, from the -time of Germanicus to the present moment, has excited the wonder and -admiration of every traveller who has beheld it. “It is absolutely -impossible,” says Belzoni, “to imagine the scene displayed, without -seeing it. The most sublime ideas that can be formed from the most -magnificent specimens of our present architecture would give a very -incorrect picture of these ruins; for such is the difference, not only -in magnitude, but in form, proportion, and construction, that even the -pencil can convey but a faint idea of the whole. It appeared to me -like entering a city of giants, who, after a long conflict, were all -destroyed, leaving the ruins of their various temples as the only proof -of their existence.” - -After a brief examination of these mighty ruins, he crossed to -the western bank of the Nile, where, amid the vast remains of the -Memnonium, was the colossal head which he was to remove. He found it, -he says, near the remains of its body and chair, with its face upwards, -and apparently smiling on him at the thought of being taken to England. -The implements which he had brought from Cairo were sufficiently -simple: fourteen poles, eight of which were employed in making a sort -of car to lay the bust on, four ropes of palm-leaves, and four rollers, -without tackle of any sort. Their boat lying too far to be used as a -lodging every night, they established themselves in the Memnonium, -where, as the traveller remarks, they were handsomely lodged in a small -hut formed of stones. Mrs. Belzoni seems, in fact, to have been as -enterprising and romantic as her husband, and made no difficulty about -the rudeness of their accommodation. Into a detail of his laborious -exertions, or those of the Arabs in conveying the head to the Nile, I -do not think it necessary to enter. It will be sufficient to state, -that after incredible toil and perseverance, it was at length brought -to the edge of the stream on the 12th of August, 1816. - -This object being effected, he made an excursion to the sepulchral -excavations in the mountain of Gornou, celebrated for the quantity of -mummies which they contain. Into this vast labyrinth he entered with -two Arabs and his interpreter. They were in search of a sarcophagus -which was said to have been discovered by Drovetti; but, in roaming -about amid the dreary passages, lost their way, which, without -extraordinary good fortune, might have been the first step to losing -their lives. In labouring to find a passage out, they came to a small -aperture, through which the interpreter and one of the Arabs passed -easily, but Belzoni, who was a very large man, found it too small. -“One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did my interpreter; and it -was then agreed,” says he, “that I and the other Arab should wait till -their return. They proceeded evidently to a great distance, for the -light disappeared, and only a murmuring sound from their voices could -be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments I heard a loud -noise, and the interpreter distinctly crying, ‘O mon Dieu! O mon Dieu! -je suis perdu!’ after which a profound silence ensued. I asked my Arab -whether he had ever been in that place. He replied, ‘Never.’ I could -not conceive what could have happened, and thought the best plan was to -return to procure help from the other Arabs. Accordingly, I told my man -to show me the way out again; but, staring at me like an idiot, he said -he did not know the road. I called repeatedly to the interpreter, but -received no answer. I watched a long time, but no one returned, and my -situation was no very pleasant one.” - -At length, however, by dint of laborious perseverance, they issued into -upper air; and as the sarcophagus, which they had discovered, could not -at that moment be removed, our traveller conceived the design of making -a small excursion into Nubia. Accordingly, he proceeded up the river -to Assouan, where, after much altercation, he procured a fresh boat to -carry him to the second cataract. He admired, in passing, the beautiful -island of Phile, rich in the ruins of antiquity. On the next day -several natives, armed with spears and shields of crocodile skins, came -in boats to attack them on the river; but observing them, Mrs. Belzoni -and all, to be armed with pistols, they very prudently retired. At -Deir, the capital of Lower Nubia, our traveller purchased with a small -looking-glass permission to continue his voyage. Previous to this, -many of the people of the country had never enjoyed the gratification -of contemplating the reflection of their own countenances, unless, -like Polypheme, they made a mirror of the glassy stream. On arriving -at Ipsambul, he saw with amazement the great rock-temple discovered -by Burckhardt. He immediately conceived the design of clearing away -the sand which obstructed the entrance into the temple, and made the -proposal to the villagers, promising, in order to excite them to the -task, a present in money; but soon found that he had at length arrived -in a region where money had ceased to be omnipotent. The people stared -at his piasters as they would have stared at a letter in an unknown -language, and inquired who would give them any thing for such small -bits of metal as those? However, he by degrees succeeded in convincing -them that money possessed over civilized men, and all who came within -their influence, a mysterious power which they could not resist, and -thus awakened in their souls the “accursed thirst of gold.” This -seemed at first to produce a good effect; but the love of money once -excited, they knew not where to stop; and their avarice, which he had -reckoned his best ally, soon exhausted his means, so that before he had -half-completed his undertaking he was compelled to desist, and continue -his voyage up the Nile to Ibrim and the first cataract. - -Having gratified his curiosity with a glance at these celebrated spots, -Belzoni returned to Assouan, and from thence proceeded to Thebes, -where he immediately put in train the measures necessary for conveying -down the river the Memnon’s head, and various other antiquities. The -obstacles which were thrown in his way by the obstinacy of the natives, -and the intrigues of Drovetti, and other collectors of antiquities, -were numerous, and highly disgraceful to their originators. -Nevertheless, on the 17th of November, 1816, he succeeded in placing -the head on board of a boat, in which he set sail on the 21st for -Cairo, where he arrived on the 15th of December, after a voyage of -twenty-four days. All professions reckon among their members many -knaves and many fools; but the antiquarians with whom Belzoni came in -contact deserved, in several instances, to be sent to the galleys. His -labours were, as a matter of course, depreciated by several foreigners -of this cast, who absurdly misrepresented his researches. In this -number must be reckoned Count Forbin, who was frightened away from -Thebes by beholding the apparition of an English waiting-maid in a -blue pelisse among the ruins. This gentleman, in his absurd “Travels,” -represents our traveller as having employed six months in placing the -colossal bust on board the boat, although he knew, or should have -known, that the operation did not occupy a sixth part of that time. The -origin of this contemptible fiction was the jealousy which the idea -of seeing this extraordinary piece of antiquity in the possession of -the English inspired. An able writer in the Quarterly Review, after -animadverting in a very spirited manner upon the meanness of these -proceedings, observes, “But detraction, it would appear, is not all -that Mr. Belzoni has had to sustain from this irrational jealousy. M. -Drovetti, French consul, has, as Count Forbin observes, two agents at -Thebes,--the one a Mameluke, named Yousuf, originally a drummer in the -French army; the other a Marseillese renegade of the name of Riffo, -‘small in stature, bold, enterprising, and choleric; beating the Arabs -because they had neither time nor taste to understand the Provençal -language.’ These persons are more than suspected of being concerned -in a plot against the life of Mr. Belzoni, who was recently fired at -from behind a wall, while employed in his researches among the ruins -of Carnac, where these two fellows were then known to be lurking. The -affair has been brought before the Consular Court at Cairo; and we -trust that M. Drovetti, for the sake of his own character and that of -his country, will not interfere with the judicial proceedings, nor -attempt to shelter his agents from the punishment which awaits them.” - -From Cairo Belzoni proceeded with the bust down the Nile to Rosetta and -Alexandria; from whence, after having placed his charge in the pasha’s -warehouses, he quickly returned, for the purpose of proceeding on a -second voyage up the Nile. It was on this occasion that he had the good -fortune to become known to Mr. Briggs, with whom he returned to Cairo. -Captain Caviglia had at this period commenced his researches in the -interior of the first pyramid of Ghizeh; but was about to discontinue -them for lack of means, when Mr. Briggs munificently engaged to furnish -funds for the purpose, in which he was seconded by Mr. Salt. It was -proposed by this latter gentleman that Belzoni should join Captain -Caviglia in his researches; but our traveller, with commendable -ambition, preferred some undertaking in which all the credit should -redound to himself; and, having left his wife at the house of a friend -at Cairo, he once more ascended the Nile, accompanied by Mr. Beechey, -to whom he had been introduced at Alexandria. - -At Eraramoun, near Ashmouneir, Belzoni obtained intelligence that two -agents of M. Drovetti were hurrying on towards Thebes, in the hope of -forestalling him in the purchase of antiquities; upon which he hired -two asses, and, leaving Mr. Beechey to come up slowly with the boat, -hurried off by night. On reaching the ruins, after an incredibly -fatiguing journey of five days, he found that, although the agents were -not arrived, Mr. Salt’s neglect, in not paving the way with a handsome -present, had so completely irritated the bey, that he had appropriated -to the French ex-consul the very ground upon which Belzoni had -commenced his excavations during his first journey. Into the details -of these wretched squabbles, which it is humiliating to the lovers of -art even to peruse, I shall of course not enter. Belzoni, it should be -observed, was forced into them much against his feelings; for he was -an educated, liberal, and high-minded man, altogether averse from low -caballing and intrigue, which appear to have formed the native element -of Drovetti and his congenial coadjutor, the Count de Forbin. - -The most interesting transaction, perhaps, in which our traveller was -anywhere engaged, was his visit to the Necropolis of Thebes, in the -mountain of Gournou. This is a tract of about two miles in length, at -the foot of the Libyan ridge. Every part of these rocks is scooped out -into a sepulchre, which, however close it may be to other sepulchral -chambers, has rarely any interior communication with them. It is -impossible, as Belzoni observes, to convey by description an adequate -idea of these subterraneous abodes and their inhabitants. No other -sepulchres in the world resemble them. There are no excavations or -mines that can be compared with those astonishing places, which, when -once seen, for ever after haunt the imagination, like a glimpse of the -regions beyond the grave. Few travellers see more of these catacombs -than the exterior chambers, from which the dead have been removed. -In the interior sepulchres the air is suffocating, and frequently -causes fainting. The dust of decayed mummies, which is so fine that -it quickly penetrates in vast quantities to the lungs, and causes a -difficulty of respiration; the strong effluvia of decomposed bodies; -the dark, dismal, lonesome nature of the place;--every thing tends to -discourage the intruder. Belzoni was not, however, to be deterred. In -describing the difficulties which he here encountered, he observes, “In -some places there is not more than the vacancy of a foot left, which -you must contrive to pass through in a creeping posture, like a snail, -on pointed and keen stones that cut like glass. After getting through -these passages, some of them two or three hundred yards long, you -generally find a more commodious place, perhaps high enough to sit. -But what a place of rest! surrounded by bodies, by heaps of mummies, in -all directions, which, previous to my being accustomed to the sight, -impressed me with horror. The blackness of the wall; the faint light -given by the candles or torches for want of air; the different objects -that surrounded me seeming to converse with each other; and the Arabs -with the candles or torches in their hands, naked and covered with -dust, themselves resembling living mummies,--absolutely formed a scene -that cannot be described. In such a situation I found myself several -times, and often returned exhausted and fainting, till at last I became -inured to it, and indifferent to what I suffered except from the dust, -which never failed to choke my throat and nose; and though fortunately -I am destitute of the sense of smelling, I could taste that the mummies -were rather unpleasant to swallow. After the exertion of entering into -such a place, through a passage of fifty, a hundred, three hundred, or -perhaps six hundred yards, nearly overcome, I sought a resting-place, -found one, and contrived to sit; but when my weight bore on the body -of an Egyptian, it crushed it like a bandbox. I naturally had recourse -to my hands to sustain my weight, but they found no better support; so -that I sank altogether among the broken mummies, with a crash of bones, -rags, and wooden cases, which raised such a dust as kept me motionless -for a quarter of an hour, waiting till it subsided again. I could not -move from the place, however, without increasing it, and every step -I took crushed a mummy in some part or other. Once I was conducted -from such a place to another resembling it, through a passage of about -twenty feet in length, and no wider than that the body could be forced -through. It was choked with mummies, and I could not pass without -putting my face in contact with that of some decayed Egyptian; but as -the passage inclined downwards, my own weight helped me on. However, I -could not help being covered with bones, legs, arms, and heads, rolling -from above. Thus I proceeded from one cave to another, all full of -mummies, piled up in various ways, some standing, some lying, and some -on their heads. The purpose of my researches was to rob the Egyptians -of their papyri, of which I found a few hidden in their breasts, under -their arms, and in the space above the knees, or on the legs, and -covered by the numerous folds of cloth that envelop the mummy.” - -Belzoni continued indefatigably making new researches both at Gournou -and Carnac, but was at length put to flight by the machinations of -the French, who had succeeded in gaining over to their party the bey -of the province. He then resolved once more to ascend the Nile to -Ipsambul, and was fortunate enough to meet with two English travellers, -Captains Irby and Mangles, who were desirous of performing the same -voyage. They hired a boat between them at Philo, where they celebrated -the birth-day of George the Third, and setting out together in high -spirits, visited the second cataract, and then returned to Ipsambul. -Here the wrong-headedness and quarrelsome disposition of the Nubians -considerably obstructed their labours in clearing away the entrance -to the temple. But at length, having dismissed the native labourers, -and undertaken the task themselves, they succeeded, and enjoyed the -satisfaction of beholding one of the most perfect and beautiful -rock-temples in the world. - -Having completed this laborious operation, our traveller returned to -his old station at Thebes, where he continued his researches in the -valley of Beban el Malook. Here, among other remarkable antiquities, -he discovered one relic of the ancient world, which certainly appears -to rank among the most beautiful that have ever been exhumed. “It is,” -says he, “a sarcophagus of the finest oriental alabaster, nine feet -five inches long, and three feet seven inches wide. Its thickness is -only two inches, and it is transparent when a light is placed inside -it. It is minutely sculptured within and without with several hundred -figures which do not exceed two inches in height, and represent, as I -suppose, the whole of the funeral procession and ceremonies relating -to the deceased, united with several emblems, &c. I cannot give an -adequate idea of this beautiful and invaluable piece of antiquity, and -can only say, that nothing has been brought into Europe from Egypt that -can be compared to it. The cover was not there; it had been taken out -and broken into several pieces.” - -Of the tomb in which this extraordinary monument was found a model -was many years afterward exhibited in London, and so exceedingly well -executed was the representation, that had it not been for the crowds of -visiters, one might easily have imagined one’s self in the sepulchres -of the Egyptian kings. Belzoni wanted but one thing to render him one -of the greatest antiquarian collectors in the world: this one thing -was money. But for the lack of this, many of his most arduous and -well-planned enterprises came to nothing. - -From Thebes, with which he was now as familiar as he was with London, -he some time after this proceeded to Cairo. He had by this time -acquired quite a passion for excavations, tomb-opening, and all those -other pursuits by which travellers aim at diving into the mysteries of -Egyptian manners and arts; and reflecting upon the success of Captain -Caviglia in descending into the well of the Great Pyramid, the project -of attempting the opening of the second occurred to him. It were -beside my purpose to describe the difficulties which he encountered -and overcame in the execution of this design. His labours were -incessant; his expenses considerable; but, at length, after success had -frequently appeared hopeless, the entrance to the interior chambers -was found. “After thirty days’ exertion,” says he, “I had the pleasure -of finding myself in the way to the central chamber of one of the -two great pyramids of Egypt, which have long been the admiration of -beholders!” - -This object having been happily effected, Belzoni again set out for -Thebes. There he was made acquainted with the history of a pretended -discovery, which became a motive for a journey to the coast of the -Red Sea. The history of this expedition is given in a very few words -by a writer in the Quarterly Review whom I have already cited. “A -French mineralogist, of the name of Caillaud, had accompanied some -Arab soldiers sent by the pasha of Egypt in search of emeralds among -the mountains between the Nile and the Red Sea. On their return, this -person gave out (as we learn from an intelligent correspondent in the -Malta Gazette) that in this expedition he had discovered the ancient -city of the Ptolemies, the celebrated Bernicé, the great emporium of -Europe and the Indies, of which he gave a magnificent description. Mr. -Belzoni, doubtful of the accuracy of the story, set out from Edfoo, -with one of the former party, to visit the supposed Bernicé; where, -instead of the ruins of 800 houses and three temples, as stated by M. -Caillaud, he could find no more than eighty-seven scattered houses, -or rather cells; the greater number of which did not exceed _ten feet -square_, built with unhewn stones, and without cement; and the only -appearance of a temple was a niche in a rock, without inscription or -sculpture of any kind; there was no land for cultivation, nor any water -within twenty-four miles; no communication with the sea but by a rough -road over the mountains of twenty-four miles; and the shore was so -covered with projecting rocks for twenty or thirty miles on each side, -that there was no security even for the smallest boats, much less for -ships trading to India. These, therefore, he was quite certain, could -not be the remains of Bernicé. - -As, however, the site of this celebrated city had been fully described -by the ancient writers, Mr. Belzoni determined to prosecute his -researches; and at the end of twenty days he discovered, close to the -shore, the extensive ruins of an ancient city near the Cape Lepte -Extrema, the Ras el Auf of the present day; the projection of which -forms an ample bay (now named Foul Bay), having at the bottom an -excellent harbour for vessels of small burden. These ruins, which are -beyond dispute those of the celebrated emporium founded by Ptolemy -Philadelphus, were four days’ journey from the rude cells of the -quarrymen or miners, which M. Caillaud is stated to have so strangely -mistaken for the magnificent vestiges of the ancient Bernicé. Several -wells of bitter water were found among the ruins; and between them and -the mountains was an extensive plain fit for cultivation. The remains -of more than 3000 houses were counted, about the centre of which were -those of a temple with sculptured figures and hieroglyphics.” - -Having made this discovery, he again returned to the valley of the -Nile, where he was for some time occupied in the removal of various -antiquities. He then descended to the seacoast, and on the 20th of -April, 1819, set out from Rosetta, on an excursion to the district -of Fayoum, and the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon. After roaming about the -shores of Lake Mœris for some time, for he had no leisure for making -researches, he visited the ruins of Arconde, consisting of a few -granite columns and fragments and mounds of burnt bricks. He then -prepared to cross the desert to the Oasis, which was an affair of -some difficulty. Nevertheless, he at length succeeded in completing -his preparations, and commenced his journey, accompanied by a Bedouin -guide, and three or four other persons. Even here, in the desert, -ruins of Egyptian edifices, beautifully sculptured with hieroglyphics, -were found. The scene at first lay among low rocks, sandy hills, and -barren valleys, which were gradually exchanged for a plain of sand, as -level as the sea, and thickly strewed with brown and black pebbles. -They continued during five days their journey over this dreary waste, -at the end of which time they perceived the rocks of the Oasis, and -beheld two crows coming, as it were, to meet them. In the afternoon -they entered the valley, which is surrounded by high rocks, and forms -in the midst a spacious plain, about twelve or fourteen miles long, -and about six in breadth. “There is only a very small portion of the -valley cultivated on the opposite side to that which we reached, and it -can only be distinguished by the woods of palm-trees which cover it. -The rest of the valley is wholly covered with tracts of sand, but it -is evidently seen it has once been cultivated everywhere. Many tracts -of land are of a clayey substance, which could be brought into use -even now. There are several small hills scattered about, some with a -natural spring at the top, and covered with rushes and small plants. -We advanced towards a forest of date-trees, and before evening we -reached within a mile of a village named Zaboo, all of us exceedingly -thirsty: here we observed some cultivation, several beds of rice and -some sunt-trees, &c. Before the camels arrived, they scented the water -at a distance; and as they had not drank since they left Rejan, they -set off at full gallop, and did not stop till they reached a rivulet, -which was quite sweet, although the soil was almost impregnated with -salt. I observed here a great many wild birds, particularly wild ducks, -in greater abundance than any other.” - -The first man who perceived them after their entrance into the valley -evinced a disposition to shoot Belzoni; but, upon the explanation of -the Bedouin guide, consented to conduct them to the village. “We -advanced,” says our traveller, “and entered a lane between these -plants; and as we penetrated farther, we entered a most beautiful -place, full of dates, intermixed with other trees, some in blossom and -others in fruit: these were apricots, figs, almonds, plums, and some -grapes. The apricots were in greater abundance than the rest, and the -figs were very fine. The soil was covered with verdure of grass and -rice, and the whole formed a most pleasing recess, particularly after -the barren scenes of the desert.” - -His reception at this village was equivocal: there being several -sheïkhs, each of whom made pretensions to authority. Some were disposed -to treat him kindly, while others, more morose, kept at a distance; but -a few cups of coffee, judiciously distributed, and followed by a sheep -boiled in rice, reconciled the whole; although they next morning, when -they were again hungry, relapsed into their former rude manners. Like -all other ignorant people, they supposed that he must necessarily be -in search of treasure, and for some time refused to conduct him to the -ruins of which he was in search; but upon being assured that whatever -treasures might be discovered should fall to their share, while all he -stipulated for were a few stones, they consented to accompany him. The -ruins, which, with much probability, he concluded to be those of the -temple of Jupiter Ammon, now served, he found, as a basement for nearly -a whole village, in the vicinity of which he discovered the famous -“Fountain of the Sun,” which is warm at midnight and cold at noon. -This is a well of sixty feet deep by eight square, which, overflowing -in a considerable rivulet, serves to irrigate some cultivated lands. -All around it is a grove of palm and other trees. The temperature of -the water, however, continues at all times the same; all its apparent -changes being accounted for by the greater or less degree of heat in -the atmosphere. - -From this excursion Belzoni returned to Egypt, from whence he embarked -for Europe about the middle of September, 1819. After an absence of -twenty years he returned to his family; whence he departed for England, -where he completed and published his travels. A few years afterward -this enterprising and able traveller fell in an attempt to penetrate -into the interior of Africa. - - - - -DOMINIQUE VIVANT DENON. - -Born 1754.--Died 1825 - - -This traveller was born at Givry, near Chalons-sur-Soane, in Burgundy. -He was descended from a noble family, and commenced his career in life -as a royal page. When he had for some time served in the palace in -this capacity, he was nominated gentleman in ordinary to the king; not -long after which he obtained the office of secretary to an embassy. -In this capacity he accompanied the Baron de Talleyrand, ambassador -of France to Naples, where, during the absence of the ambassador, he -remained _chargé des affaires_. At the epoch of the emigration he -incurred the displeasure of Queen Marie Caroline, and in consequence -removed to Venice, where he was known under the name of the Chevalier -Denon, and became one of the most distinguished members of the society -of Madame Albrizzi. This lady has sketched his portrait in her -_Ritratti_. After having spoken in a highly laudatory strain of his -passion for knowledge, his intrepidity in danger, the constant gayety -of his mind, the fertility of his imagination, the versatility of his -character, his irresistible inclination to drollery, she adds, “He -is generally supposed to resemble Voltaire. For my own part, I would -admit that in his physiognomy you may discover that of Voltaire, but -in the physiognomy of Voltaire you would look in vain for that of -Denon. That which, in my opinion, they possess in common, is simply -an indication of sprightliness, vivacity, versatility, and a certain -sarcastic air in the look and smile, which amuses while it terrifies; -but the physiognomy of Voltaire indicates none of those qualities which -characterize the soul of Denon.” - -During his stay in Italy, Denon diligently applied himself to the art -of design, in which, as was afterward seen, he acquired a remarkable -facility and power. On the breaking out of the revolution he adopted -its principles, and even connected himself with the most furious -jacobins, with the intention, it has been said, of snatching a few -victims from their fangs. But, notwithstanding all this, he would -probably have sunk into that oblivion which has already devoured -the memory of so many actors in those sanguinary times, had not the -Egyptian expedition placed him in an advantageous position before the -world. He had all his life, he says, been desirous of travelling in -Egypt, and easily obtained the consent of Napoleon to accompany him. -Embarking at Marseilles on the 14th of May, 1799, he sailed along -the shores of Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, and Malta, where he landed -and made some stay, and then proceeded to Egypt. Having had the good -fortune to escape the English fleet in a fog, he landed near Alexandria -with the French troops, of whose movements I shall take no further -notice, except in as far as they may be connected with the actions of -Denon. - -It has been truly remarked by Volney, that on arriving any foreign -country, how many descriptions soever you may have read of it, you -nevertheless find every thing new and strange; as if, in fact, you had -just discovered it. Denon was precisely in this predicament. He had, no -doubt, read what had been written respecting Egypt; yet he looked upon -it as a country of which little beyond the name was known in Europe, -and consequently commenced the study of its antiquities with all -possible enthusiasm. His views, though vanity had some influence in the -formation of them, were tolerably correct. Egypt has indeed been often -visited, and in many instances by able men and accomplished scholars; -but no one who has toiled, as I have, through the descriptions of these -various travellers, can avoid making the discovery that very much -remains yet to be done before we can be said to possess a thorough -knowledge of Egypt, ancient or modern. - -From Alexandria Denon proceeded with Kleber’s division towards Rosetta; -clouds of Arabs hung on their front and in their rear, cutting off -every man who lagged behind, or strayed to the distance of fifty yards -from the main body. Desaix himself narrowly escaped; and several young -officers, less on the alert, were either made prisoners or shot. After -making numerous little excursions in the Delta, he set out for Upper -Egypt, which, in his opinion, had never before been visited by a -European; so that, if we interpret him literally, all the travellers -who had previously described that country were so many fiction-mongers. -In ascending the Nile, he beheld at ten leagues’ distance from Cairo -the points of the Pyramids piercing the horizon. These prodigious -monuments, which, even more powerfully than Thebes itself, command the -attention of every traveller in Egypt, he soon visited with an escort, -and sketched from various positions. The city of Cairo disappointed his -expectations, which appear to have been absurd, since he had formed his -ideas of the place from the “Arabian Nights,” rather than from the -descriptions of travellers. - -The population of Cairo, which, though far less numerous than is -commonly supposed, is still very great, saw with disgust and horror -the triumph of the Franks; who, they feared, might soon introduce -among them the eating of the “unclean beast,” abhorred by Jews and -Mussulmans, with drinking, gambling, and other accomplishments which -Mohammed had prohibited to his followers. They therefore determined to -shake off the yoke which they had too tamely suffered to be placed on -their necks. Rushing fiercely to arms, they attacked their invaders -with fury. The house which had been appropriated to the learned men -who accompanied the expedition stood apart from the city, and was -surrounded by gardens. Here they were collected together when the -revolt began. The report of musketry and symptoms of increasing -consternation soon informed them, however, of what was going forward -in the more populous quarters, and their alarm was proportioned to the -solitude by which they were surrounded. Presently a report reached them -that the house of General Caffarelli had been sacked and pillaged, -and that several members of the commission of arts had perished. They -now reviewed their numbers, and four of the party were missing. In -an hour after this it was ascertained that they had been massacred. -Meanwhile no one could give any account of Napoleon; night was coming -on; the firing continued; shouts and clamours filled the air; and it -was evident that the insurrection was general. A tremendous carnage had -already taken place, but the inhabitants still held out, having in one -half of the city adopted that barricading system in which they were -recently imitated by the people of Paris; and in others, taken refuge, -to the number of four thousand, in a spacious mosque, from whence they -repulsed two companies of grenadiers. Night produced a pause in the -struggle. At the commencement of the insurrection the literati had been -granted a guard, but about midnight the exigences of the moment caused -this to be withdrawn; when they themselves took arms, and, though every -man was disposed to command and none to obey, prepared to receive the -insurgents. Thus the night passed away in confusion and slaughter, and -in the morning the French were again masters of the city. - -It must be acknowledged, to the honour of the French, that, whatever -their conduct in Egypt may have been in other respects, nothing could -be more constant than their ardour for the sciences. In the midst -of battles, revolts, and dangers of every kind, their researches -were still continued. We accordingly find Denon, just escaped from -becoming a mummy himself, busily engaged in dissecting an ibis, five -hundred mummies of which bird had just been discovered in the caverns -of Saccara. He next witnessed an exhibition of the achievements of -the Psylli; but his incredulity and self-sufficiency disinclined -him from making any serious inquiries on the subject of their power -over serpents, which he was contented with turning into ridicule: an -unfortunate propensity for a traveller, who should abandon all such -absurd displays of littleness to the wits of the metropolis. - -Shortly after this Denon accompanied General Desaix on an expedition -into Upper Egypt. The Mamelukes, though forced to retire, still -continued to make head against their enemies, who, if they triumphed -over them through the effects of discipline, were assuredly neither -more brave nor more enterprising. When they drew near the place where -the Mamelukes under Murad Bey were reported to be encamped, Desaix was -informed that Murad was already putting himself in motion to attack -him. The French general, no less chivalrous than Murad, determined -at once to anticipate the attack. Both armies came in sight of each -other in the evening. It was too late for battle. The victory which -both parties promised themselves was deferred until the morrow. -In the Mameluke camp the night was spent in rejoicings; and their -sentinels approached, with laughter and insult, the advanced posts of -the French. The battle commenced with the dawn. Murad, at the head of -his redoubtable Mamelukes and eight or ten thousand Arabs, appeared -ready for the attack. The French formed with rapidity, and the combat -commenced. Never, on any occasion, was more impetuous bravery displayed -than by Murad and his Mamelukes on this day. Finding that the chances -of battle were turning against them, their habitual courage degenerated -into fury: they galloped up, reckless of danger, to the ranks of their -enemies, and endeavoured to open themselves a way through the bayonets -and muskets of the French, which they attempted to hew in pieces with -their sabres. Failing in this, they made their horses rear and plunge -into the opposing lines, or backed them against the bayonets, in the -hope of breaking and dispersing them. When this desperate measure also -deceived their hopes, they lost all government of their rage, and -in the madness of their despair, threw their muskets, pistols, and -blunderbusses at the enemy; or, if dismounted, crept along the ground, -beneath the bayonets, to cut at the legs of the soldiers. It was in -this fight that an instance of ferocity on both sides, unsurpassed -by any thing of the kind recorded in history, occurred: a French -soldier and a Mameluke, engaged in mortal struggle on the ground, were -discovered by an officer, just as the Frenchman was cutting the throat -of his enemy. “How can you be guilty of so horrible an action,” said -the officer, “in the state in which you are?” The soldier replied, “You -talk very finely, at your ease, sir; for my own part, however, I have -but a moment to live, and I mean to enjoy it!” The Mamelukes retired, -but they did not fly; and it cost the French torrents of blood before -the victory was completed. - -This victory caused Desaix to return once more to Cairo for a -reinforcement, after which the journey towards the south was resumed. -At Miniel Guidi, while Denon was sitting beside the general in the -shade, a criminal, who had been caught in stealing the muskets from the -volunteers, was brought up for judgment. It was a boy not more than -twelve years of age, beautiful as an angel, but bleeding from a large -sabre wound which he had received in his arm. He paid no attention to -his wound, but presented himself with an ingenuous and confident air -before the general, whom he soon discovered to be his judge. How great -is the power of unaffected grace! The anger of every person present -immediately disappeared. He was first questioned respecting the person -who had instigated the crime. “No one,” he replied. The question was -repeated under another form: he answered that “he did not know--the -powerful--the Almighty.”--“Have you any relations?”--“Only a mother, -very poor, and blind.” He was then informed, that if he confessed who -had sent him nothing would be done to him; whereas certain punishment -would ensue upon his concealing the truth. “I have told you,” he said, -“I was sent by no one; God alone inspired me!” Then placing his cap -at the feet of the general, he continued, “Behold my head, command -it to be struck off.”--“Poor fellow!” exclaimed Desaix, “let him be -dismissed.” He was led away, and divining his fate from the looks of -the general, he departed with a smile. - -Here they enjoyed the unusual pleasure of a shower of rain. On visiting -the ruins of Oxyrinchus, Denon suffered one of the penalties attached -to a hopeless creed; beholding around him nothing but desolation and -sterility, a thousand melancholy ideas glided into his mind; he saw -the desert encroaching upon the cultivated soil, as the domain of -death encroaches upon life; the tombs in the pathless waste seemed the -emblems of death and annihilation. The gayety described by Signora -Albrizzi had now fled. He thought himself alone, and felt all that -awful solitude inspired by a want of faith in the spiritual nature -of man, that faith which sheds around us, wherever we move, a light -by which we discern the links that unite us to our Creator, and to -every thing noble and immortal in the works of his hands. He was not, -however, alone. Desaix had wandered to the same spot, and having -apparently yielded, like himself, to the fatal error of the times, -experienced the same sensations, and was oppressed by the same gloom. - -They shortly afterward set out together, escorted by three hundred -men, on an excursion to the ruins of Hermopolis; which, being the -first monument of ancient Egyptian architecture that he beheld, -the Pyramids excepted, became in his mind the type of that sublime -style. Notwithstanding the number of his escort, Denon soon found -that, although arms might indeed open him a way to places which had -hitherto been inaccessible to travellers, other circumstances, over -which neither himself nor Desaix could exercise any control, prevented -him from maturely studying what he beheld. A few hours satisfied the -curiosity of the general, and overwhelmed the soldiers, who felt no -curiosity about the matter, with fatigue. It was therefore necessary -to be contented with a few fugitive glances, as it were, with a few -sketches hastily made, and the hope of returning again under more -favourable auspices. - -On approaching Tentyris Denon ventured, he says, to propose that the -army should halt there. Desaix, though no less sensible than himself -of the charms of these antique ruins, had his mind filled with other -cares, and met the proposal with anger. Passion, however, could possess -but a momentary influence over that beautiful mind; shortly afterward -he sought out the enthusiastic traveller, in whose company he visited -Denderah, and admired the sublimity of its ponderous architecture. In -the evening, Latournerie, a young officer remarkable for his courage -and the delicacy of his taste, observed to Denon, “Ever since I -have arrived in Egypt, continual disappointment has made me ill and -melancholy. The sight of Denderah has revived me. What I have seen this -day has repaid me for all my fatigues; and whatever may be the fate to -which the present expedition shall lead me, the remembrance of this day -will cause me to rejoice, as long as I live, that I was engaged in it.” - -Two days after this, on turning the point of a chain of mountains, the -army came in sight of the ruins of Thebes. Denon loved above all things -to be original. In approaching the wreck of this mighty city, Homer’s -phrase, “Thebes with its hundred gates,” occurred to him; he repeated -it, and then descanted upon its poetical vanity, and the folly of those -who harped upon this string. As soon as the army came in sight of -these gigantic ruins, the whole body stopped spontaneously as one man, -and clapped their hands with admiration and delight. The conquest of -Egypt appeared to be complete. Our traveller, who rivalled Dr. Syntax -himself in his love of the picturesque, immediately set about sketching -the view, as if it had been merely a city of vapour, like that which -appears under the name of the “Palace of the Rajah Harchund,” in the -desert of Ajmere. Being desirous of beholding at once all the wonders -of this stupendous city, he quickly visited those colossal statues -which are found in a sitting posture in the neighbouring plain, which -he supposed to be those of the mother and son of Ossymandyas. - -From Thebes he proceeded with General Belliard to Syene, while Desaix -struck off into the desert in search of a detachment of Mamelukes. -Here he resided for some time, making the island of Elephantina his -country-house, and Syene his head-quarters. He visited the cataracts, -the island of Phile, and made drawings of whatever was striking or -remarkable in the vicinity. After a considerable stay, he returned -towards the north, where he bade adieu to his friend Desaix, never to -meet again. He afterward made a second excursion to Thebes, Denderah, -and other celebrated spots; and experienced, during one of these -rambles, the effects of the Khamsyn wind, variously described by -travellers, according to the variety of their temperaments. It was -about the middle of May, the heat was almost intolerable, a complete -stagnation seemed to have taken place in the air. “At the very moment,” -he says, “when to remove the painful sensation occasioned by such a -state of the atmosphere, I was hastening to bathe in the Nile, all -nature seemed to have put on a new aspect: the light and colours were -such as I had never seen before; the sun, without being concealed, -had lost its rays; become dimmer than the moon, it yielded but a pale -light, diffused around every object without shadows; the water no -longer reflected its rays, and appeared troubled: the aspect of every -thing was changed; it was the earth which now appeared luminous, while -the air was dim, and seemed opaque; the trees, beheld through a yellow -horizon, wore a dirty blue colour; a long column of birds swept before -the cloud; the terrified animals wandered wild through the plain, and -the peasants, who pursued them with shouts, failed to collect them -together. The wind, which had raised this prodigious mass of sand, -and transported it along through the atmosphere, had not yet reached -us, and we hoped, by entering into the water, to escape from its -effects. But we had scarcely stepped into the river before its waves -were lifted up by the hurricane, dashed over our heads, and carried -in an instantaneous inundation over the plain. The bed of the Nile -seemed shaken under our feet, and its banks with our garments appeared -to have been blown away. We hurried out of the water, the dust fell -upon us like rain, we were immediately covered as with a crust. Too -much terrified even to put on our garments, we crept along through a -reddish, insufficient light, partly guiding our steps by the walls, -until at length we found refuge in our lodgings.” - -Denon, who really possessed all the genuine enthusiasm of a traveller, -shortly after this undertook a journey to Cosseir on the Red Sea, where -he enjoyed an opportunity of beholding the manners of the Arabs under -less disadvantages than in the valley of the Nile. He then returned -again to Thebes, where he visited the sepulchres of Gournon, and -descending the Nile to the seacoast, embarked with Napoleon on board -a frigate, and sailed for France. The ship, fearful of encountering -the English, coasted along the shores of Africa, as far as the Gulf -of Carthage and Biserta; then, after passing close to Sardinia, and -touching at Corsica, arrived safe on the coast of Provence. - -On his return to France, Napoleon, of whom he was a devoted admirer, -and in whose praise he was frequently guilty of adulation, conferred -upon him the office of superintendent of museums and the striking of -medals. The triumphal column in the Place Vendôme was erected under -his direction. On the fall of Napoleon, the king, who was not ignorant -of the merits of Denon, continued him in his offices; but as on the -reappearance of Napoleon in 1815 he returned to his allegiance to his -first sovereign, he naturally sank with him upon his final fall. In his -place of superintendent of the medal mint he was succeeded by M. de -Puymaurin and by the Comte de Farbin, as director-general of museums. -Denon enjoyed the reputation, however, of being the most competent -person in Paris for filling the offices of which he had been deprived. -Remarking upon those changes, “It would be difficult,” says the -Quarterly Review, “to discover on what grounds an old and meritorious -servant, who, like Denon, had distinguished himself by his knowledge of -antiquities, by his taste and execution in the fine arts, and by his -zeal for their promotion among his countrymen, was dismissed to make -room for the present Apollo of the Museum, who has not the good fortune -to be gifted with science, art, or taste, or even with the semblance of -zeal or respect for any of them.” Denon died in 1827, leaving behind -him an extensive and well-merited reputation, which is likely long to -survive. His travels have been translated into English, and are still -highly esteemed. - - - - -REGINALD HEBER. - -Born 1783.--Died 1826. - - -Reginald Heber, equally distinguished for his talents and for his -piety, was born on the 21st of April, 1783, at Malpas, in the county of -Chester. From his earliest years religion was the predominant feeling -of his mind. His passions, which would seem to have been naturally -ardent, he quickly learned to hold in subjection; and was thus happily -delivered from those stormy agitations and poignant regrets to which -those who are formed of more fiery materials are but too frequently -liable. Like most other men who have been remarkable for their -attainments in after-life, Heber was strongly addicted, while a boy, -to extensive miscellaneous reading. Guicciardini and Machiavelli were -among his early favourites. He admired the great Florentine historian -for his style, and with a freedom from prejudice which indicated -the purity of his mind, ventured to make the discovery, that this -much-calumniated advocate of freedom was a far better man than the -world was inclined to admit. At the same time his study of the sacred -Scriptures was incessant. Even while a child, the principal events -which they record were so firmly imprinted on his memory, that his -friends used to apply to him, when at a loss where to find the account -of any important transaction, or any remarkable passage. - -In the year 1800 Heber was entered a student of Brazen Nose College, -Oxford, where he exhibited on all occasions the same high sense of -religion and primitive piety which had distinguished him in his -earlier years. His studies in the mean while were pursued with a -passionate ardour, particularly all those which were connected with -poetry, for the mind of Heber was eminently imaginative; and although -circumstances, which I know not whether to denominate fortunate or -unfortunate (since in either case he would, like the divine Founder of -his religion, have been employed in doing good), prevented him from -devoting himself to the study and building of the “lofty rhyme,” his -soul was yet a fountain, as it were, of poetry, which, if possible, -cast additional beauty and splendour on his faith. However, as I am -not, on the present occasion, engaged in viewing Heber as a poet, or -as a divine, it will not be necessary for me to enter minutely into a -description of his poetical or theological studies. His “Palestine,” -the principal contribution which he has made to our rich poetical -literature, was a juvenile performance, written before or soon after -he had completed his twentieth year; but the effect which it produced -on those who heard it recited in the theatre of the college was more -extraordinary, perhaps, than the bare reading of the poem would lead -one to conceive; though the judgment of those who then heard it has -since been confirmed by the public. “None,” says an able writer in -Blackwood’s Magazine, who heard Reginald Heber recite his ‘Palestine’ -in that magnificent theatre, “will ever forget his appearance--so -interesting and impressive. It was known that his old father was -somewhere sitting among the crowded audience, when his universally -admired son ascended the rostrum; and we have heard that the sudden -thunder of applause which then arose so shook his frame, weak and -wasted by long illness, that he never recovered it, and may be said -to have died of the joy dearest to a parent’s heart. Reginald Heber’s -recitation, like that of all poets whom we have heard recite, was -altogether untrammelled by the critical laws of elocution, which were -not set at defiance, but either by the poet unknown or forgotten; and -there was a charm in his somewhat melancholy voice, that occasionally -faltered, less from a feeling of the solemnity and even grandeur of -the scene, of which he was himself the conspicuous object--though that -feeling did suffuse his pale, ingenuous, and animated countenance--than -from the deeply-felt sanctity of his subject, comprehending the most -awful mysteries of God’s revelations to man. As his voice grew bolder -and more sonorous in the hush, the audience felt that this was not -the mere display of the skill and ingenuity of a clever youth, the -accidental triumph of an accomplished versifier over his compeers, in -the dexterity of scholarship, which is all that can generally be truly -said of such exhibitions; but that here was a poet indeed, not only of -bright promise, but of high achievement; one whose name was already -written in the roll of the immortals. And that feeling, whatever might -have been the share of the boundless enthusiasm with which the poem was -listened to, attributable to the influence of the ‘genius loci,’ has -been since sanctioned by the judgment of the world, that has placed -‘Palestine’ at the very head of the poetry on divine subjects of this -age. It is now incorporated for ever with the poetry of England.” - -In this eloquent tribute to the memory of Heber there appears to be but -one error; it is that which attributes the death of Reginald’s father -to the influence of excessive joy on a frame debilitated by illness; a -report which we are assured by the widow of our traveller was wholly -without foundation. During the same year, Napoleon conceived the insane -design of invading England; and thus roused in the ardent breasts of -our countrymen a fierce spirit of resistance, which affected even the -peaceful college student, who, to use the familiar expression of Heber -in describing himself thus engaged, “fagged and drilled by turns.” -Neither Napoleon nor his army, however, had been doomed by Providence -to lay their bones in English clay, as, had the invasion taken place, -they must have done; and our traveller’s military enthusiasm was -quickly suffered to cool. - -Early in the year 1804, Heber sustained one of the heaviest calamities -which men can experience on this side of the grave--the loss of a -father; which he bore with that deep but meek sorrow which a youth full -of religious hope and untiring resignation to the will of Providence -might be naturally expected to feel. In the autumn of the same year he -was elected a fellow of All Souls; shortly after which his academical -career terminated, and he exchanged the mimic world of the university -for that far more arduous scene where many an academical star has grown -dim, though Heber, with the happy fortune which usually attends the -virtuous, continued even in the great theatre of the world to command -the approval and admiration of mankind. - -About the middle of the year 1805, he accompanied his early friend, -Mr. John Thornton, whose virtues would appear to have been akin to his -own, on a tour through the north of Europe. They proceeded by sea -to Gottenburg in Sweden, where they experienced the effect of that -strangeness and novelty, which is felt once by all persons who travel -in a foreign country, but which can never, by any possibility, visit -the mind a second time. Here they purchased a carriage, and proceeded -through the wildest and most sublime scenery, interspersed with meadows -and corn-fields, on a tour among the mountains of Norway. At intervals, -dispersed over craggy, desolate heaths, immense numbers of cairns and -Runic columns were discovered,--which, with pine forests of sombre hue, -large bays of the sea nearly land-locked, and appearing like so many -lakes; cascades, rocks, cloud-capped mountains,--produced a series -of impressions upon the mind, characterized by so high a degree of -solemn grandeur, that even the vast solitudes of the Brenner Alps or -Wetterhorn could scarcely inspire a deeper sense of sublimity. Amid -those wild landscapes the natives amused themselves with wolf-hunting -on sledges, during the winter; but their ferocious game sometimes come -out in such multitudes from the woods, that even the most skilled -huntsmen were in danger. - -At Munkholm, or Monk’s Island, called the Bastille du Nord, Heber saw, -among other prisoners, a very old man, who had been confined there -for above fifty years, and had lost in a great measure the use of his -faculties; they were much moved by his appearance, and the answers -which he gave. On being asked how old he was, he answered three hundred -years. His crime was variously reported: some said he was sent there by -his relations for violent behaviour to his father; others as being a -spend-thrift; and M. Leganger said, as being mad. A pretty government -this, where a man is shut up for his whole life, and three or four -different reasons given for his imprisonment, all equally uncertain! -In Norway, as well as in some parts of Hadramaut and the Coromandel -coast, the cattle are fed upon the refuse of fish, which fattens them -rapidly, but seems, at the same time, totally to change their nature, -and render them unmanageably ferocious. - -Heber’s stay in Norway was short. He had the talent to describe -whatever was presented to his view, but his mild and gentle nature -inspired him with no sympathy for the craggy, barren, desolate scenery -of the Norwegian mountains; and he appears to have hastened his return -to the abodes of civilization from an instinctive perception of this -fact. Upon passing from Norway into Sweden, they spent some time at -Upsala and the capital; from whence they crossed the Gulf of Bothnia in -a fishing-boat, to Abo, in Finland. From hence, however, as it seems to -have contained nothing worth seeing, they proceeded with all possible -celerity, the approved English mode of travelling, to Petersburg. -Notwithstanding the rapidity of their movements, they found time to -make one discovery, which, as it is the echo of what most travellers -repeat of the countries they visit, I insert for the honour of the -Finns and Russians: “In one point,” says he, “both the Finlanders and -Russians are unfortunately agreed, I mean in the proverbial knavery of -the lower classes. In Sweden every thing was secure from theft, and our -carriage, with its harness, cushions, &c., stood every night untouched -in the open street. But we soon found how very inferior the Sclavonian -race is to the Gothic in honesty, and were obliged to keep a constant -watch. I cannot account for this apparently generic difference. If the -Russians only had been thieves I should have called it the effects of -the slavery of the peasants, but Swedish Finland is just as bad, and -the peasants are as free as in England.” - -Our travellers remained at St. Petersburg until the 30th of December, -amusing themselves with learning the German language, and in seeing -sights, and then departed for Moscow, travelling at the same -prodigious rate as when they fled thither from Abo. “Our mode of -travelling,” says Heber, “deserves describing, both as very comfortable -in itself, and as being entirely different from every thing in England. -We performed the journey in kabitkas, the carriages usually employed -by the Russians in their winter journeys: they are nothing more than a -very large cradle, well covered with leather, and placed on a sledge, -with a leather curtain in front; the luggage is placed at the bottom, -the portmanteaus serving for an occasional seat, and the whole covered -with a mattress, on which one or more persons can lie at full length, -or sit supported by pillows. In this attitude, and well wrapped up in -furs, one can scarcely conceive a more luxurious mode of getting over a -country, when the roads are good, and the weather not intense; but in -twenty-four or twenty-five degrees of frost (Reaumur), no wrapping can -keep you quite warm; and in bad roads, of which we have had some little -experience, the jolting is only equalled by the motion of a ship in a -storm.” - -From Moscow, where they arrived on the 3d of January, 1806, they -shortly afterward made an excursion eastward to Yaroslav, on the banks -of the Volga, during which Heber made the remarkable discovery that -the Russian clergy almost universally were inimical to the government; -being more connected than most other classes of men with the peasants, -many of whose sufferings and oppressions they shared. They witnessed at -Yaroslav a wolf-hunt on the frozen Volga. It should rather, however, -be termed a “wolf-baiting;” for the animals, which had been previously -caught for the purpose, were at once set upon by a number of dogs, -and beaten almost blind by the long whips of savages, whom I cannot -term hunters. A couple of hares were likewise chased upon the ice by -Siberian greyhounds, very beautiful creatures, with silky hair and a -fan tail, which, though less swift, were said to be more hardy than our -greyhounds. - -Heber, somewhat dazzled, as was natural, by the gorgeous taste of -the Muscovites, seems to have been highly gratified by the reception -which he and his fellow-traveller experienced at the ancient capital -of the empire: “The eastern retinues and luxuries,” says he, “which -one meets with here are almost beyond belief. There are few English -countesses have so many pearls in their possession as I have seen in -the streets in the cap of a merchant’s wife. At a ball in the ancient -costume, which was given by M. Nedilensky (secretary of state to the -late empress, whose family we have found the most agreeable in Moscow), -the ladies all wore caps entirely of pearls, and the blaze of diamonds -on their _saraphaus_ (the ancient Russian tunic) would have outshone, -I think, St. James’s. The pearl bonnet is not a becoming dress, as -it makes its wearer look very pale, a fault which some ladies had -evidently been endeavouring to obviate.” The heads which were thus -gaudily garnished on the outside were generally exceedingly empty, as -may safely be inferred from the degree of information possessed by -their fathers, husbands, and brothers; so that the comparison with -English ladies, in whom beauty and intelligence usually go hand in -hand, could, I imagine, be carried no further. - -Upon leaving Moscow about the middle of March, our traveller proceeded -southward through the Ukraine, the country of the Cossacks, at Charkof, -the capital of which, a university had recently been established. The -professors of this establishment, who were all very handsomely paid, -presented a motley assemblage of Russians, Germans, and Frenchmen, -nearly every individual of which was big with some new scheme of -teaching or college government; but this ludicrous appearance would -wear off in time, while the benefit conferred on the people would -be extensive and permanent. From hence they hurried on, for they -were still rapid in their motions, to Taganroy, or the “Cape of the -Teakettle,” so called from the form of the rock on which the fortress -stands; and from thence to Nakitchivan on the Don. “This town,” says -Heber, “is a singular mixture of Cossack houses and the black felt -tents of the Kalmucs, all fishermen, and with their habitations almost -thrust into the river. From the windows of the public-house where I am -writing, the view is very singular and pleasing. The moon is risen, and -throws a broad glare of light over the Don, which is here so widely -overflowed that the opposite bank is scarcely visible; the foreground -is a steep limestone hill covered with cottages and circular tents; and -we hear on every side the mingled characteristic sounds of the singing -of the boatmen on the river, the barking of the large ferocious Kalmuc -dogs, which in all these countries are suffered to prowl about during -the night, blended with the low monotonous chant of the Cossack women, -who are enjoying the fine evening, and dancing in a large circle in the -streets.” - -Tcherkask, their next station, which in spring was mostly under water, -seemed in some degree to resemble Venice. It was, in the opinion of -our travellers, one of the most singular towns in the world, where, in -the season of the inundation, the communication between one house and -another was preserved by a kind of balcony or gallery, raised on wooden -pillars, and running along the streets on both sides. From hence they -continued their journey along the banks of the Kuban and the frontiers -of Circassia, having in view the wild range of the Caucasus, with vast -forests of oak at its roots. The population of these districts, fierce -marauding mountaineers, beheld with regret the efforts which were -making by the Russian government to wean them from their sanguinary -habits. Their whole delight consisted in bloodshed and plunder. But -their frays had gradually become less and less frequent: “Formerly,” -said their guide, “we were ourselves a terror to our neighbours--but -we are now,” added he with a sigh--“a civilized people!” “The land on -the Russian side of the river (Kuban),” says Heber, “is but scantily -wooded; on the southern side it rises in a magnificent theatre of oak -woods, interspersed with cultivated ground, and the smoke of villages, -with the ridges of Caucasus above the whole. The nearest hills are by -no means gigantic; but there are some white peaks which rise at a vast -distance, and which proved to us that these were only the first story -of the mountain.” - -Our travellers now traversed the Crimea, and proceeded across a stepp -intersected by numerous streams, inlets of the sea, and some large -salt-water lakes, to Odessa, an interesting town, which in the opinion -of Heber owed its prosperity to the administration of the Duc de -Richelieu far more than to any natural advantages. Their route now lay -across Russian Poland, Hungary, Austria, and Northern Germany. They -arrived at Yarmouth on the 14th of October, 1806, and Heber immediately -set forward to join the family circle at Hodnet, where he enjoyed the -satisfaction which every wanderer feels when returning, after a long -and toilsome journey, to his native home. - -In the year 1807 Heber took orders, and obtained the living of Hodnet, -in Shropshire, which was in his brother’s gift; he then returned to -Oxford for the purpose of taking his degree as master of arts. It -will readily be supposed that he, whose piety was truly apostolical, -even while in a secular station, now that he had assumed the habit of -a Christian minister, became doubly anxious to render not only his -conduct, but the very thoughts of his mind, pure as became his holy -calling. The church has in no age been destitute of teachers remarkable -for their virtue and benevolence; but even among preachers of the -gospel it is not often that a man so gifted as Heber with genius, -with enlarged knowledge of mankind, with almost boundless charity and -benevolence, can be found, the perusal of whose life must create in -the reader as well as in me the vain wish that we had numbered him -among our friends. Yet Heber was far from being an ascetic. Like all -men of high imaginative powers who have never suffered vice to brush -away the down from their nobler feelings, he had a bold faith in the -enduring nature of affection, and spoke of love, not like a pert -worldling, whom no excellence could kindle, but like a philosopher, -aware of the prejudices of the vulgar, but far above being swayed by -them. “To speak, however, my serious opinion,” says he, in a letter to -a friend, “I believe that were it possible for a well-founded passion -to wear out, the very recollection of it would be more valuable than -the greatest happiness afforded by those calm and vulgar kindnesses -which chiefly proceed from knowing no great harm of one another. You -remember Shenstone’s epitaph on Miss Dolman: _Vale, Maria, Puellarum -Elegantissima, heu quanto minus est cum reliquis versari quam tui -meminisse._ I am not sure how long that romance of passion may continue -which the world shows such anxiety to wean us of as soon as possible, -and which it laughs at because it envies; but, end when it may, it -is never lost, but will contribute, like fermentation, to make the -remainder of the cup of happiness more pleasant and wholesome.” - -In the April of 1809 Heber married Amelia, youngest daughter of Dr. -Shipley, dean of St. Asaph. On this occasion he undertook an excursion -in Wales, the beauties of which, notwithstanding the variety of scenes -he had beheld, he seemed to consider equal to those of any country -in the world. He then settled on his rectory, and employed himself -earnestly in diffusing among his parishioners a proper sense of -religion, and habits of piety and virtue. “He became, indeed,” says -his excellent widow, “their earthly guide, their pastor, and friend. -His ear was never shut to their complaints, nor his hands closed to -their wants. Instead of hiding his face from the poor, he sought out -distress; he made it a rule, from which no circumstances induced him -to swerve, to ‘give to all who asked,’ however trifling the sum; and -wherever he had an opportunity, he never failed to inquire into, and -more effectually to relieve their distress. He could not pass a sick -person, or a child crying, without endeavouring to sooth and help -them; and the kindness of his manner always rendered his gifts doubly -valuable.” - -Heber, whose leisure, however, was not considerable, was now led, -by a praiseworthy literary ambition, to become a contributor to the -Quarterly Review, where many of the excellent critiques on books of -travels which appeared about that period were of his writing. Having -himself travelled, he knew how to appreciate the historian of foreign -manners, while the high tone of his Christian virtues emancipated him -from that mean jealousy with which little minds are inspired by the -success of a rival. He was, moreover, admirably calculated by the -extent and variety of his reading, in which perhaps, he was scarcely -excelled even by Dr. Southey or Sir Walter Scott, for determining the -amount of information which any particular observer added to the common -stock; without which no critic, however able or acute, can possibly -judge with accuracy of the merits of a traveller. The Castalian rill, -which Providence had intrusted to our traveller’s keeping, was not, -in the mean while, permitted to stagnate. Various poems, of different -character and pretensions, he from time to time composed, and submitted -to the world; and in 1812 published a collected edition of all his -poetical works. In the same year he was afflicted by a severe and -somewhat protracted illness. Indeed, he continued through life, -observes Mrs. Heber, subject to inflammatory attacks, though rigid -temperance and exercise enabled him to pursue his studies without -inconvenience. He was an early riser, and having performed his daily -devotions, devoted the larger portion of the day to literature; from -which, nevertheless, he was ready to separate himself at the call of -duty. - -I have before observed that Heber’s character was by no means morose -or ascetic; he was full of vivacity, good-humour, wit, and no enemy -to amusements; but he conceived that on Sunday it was the Christian’s -duty to abstain as far as possible from every species of business. An -anecdote illustrative of this point, which is related by Mrs. Heber, -is well worth repeating: As Mr. Reginald Heber was riding one Sunday -morning to preach at Moreton, his horse cast a shoe. Seeing the village -blacksmith standing at the door of his forge, he requested him to -replace it. The man immediately set about blowing up the embers of his -Saturday night’s fire, on seeing which, he said, “On second thoughts, -John, it does not signify; I can walk my mare; it will not lame her, -and I do not like to disturb your day of rest.” - -In 1815 he was appointed Bampton lecturer. His subject was necessarily -theological, so that it is not within my competence to decide -respecting the merit of his mode of treating it; but notwithstanding -that it excited the opposition of one antagonist, who called in -question his orthodoxy, the lectures appear, when published, to have -been generally approved of by the clergy, the legitimate judges in -such matters. Two years after this he was promoted to a stall in the -cathedral of St. Asaph, an appointment which led to many journeys into -Wales, during which he yielded up his mind to the delight of poetical -composition. In the midst of these and similar enjoyments, which, to -a mind so purely and beautifully constituted as his, must have been -secondary only to those arising from the exercise of virtue, Heber -underwent the affliction of losing at a very early age his only child. -This bereavement, however, severely as it affected his heart, he -submitted to with that religious resignation which his character would -have led us to expect from him. - -Our traveller himself appeared, in the spring of 1820, in extreme -danger of being snatched away from the world. By constantly attending -in the chambers of the sick, during the prevalence of putrid -sore-throat in his neighbourhood, he caught this dangerous disorder, -which from himself was communicated to seven members of his household, -to none of whom, however, did it prove fatal. In the autumn of the same -year he paid a visit to Oxford, “when,” says Mrs. Heber, “he had the -gratification of hearing ‘Palestine’ performed as an oratorio in the -same theatre, where, seventeen years before, he had recited it to an -equally, or perhaps a more crowded audience than was then assembled. -To the eye the scene was the same, but its component parts were widely -different. Of the relations who were present at the former period, some -had paid the debt of nature; the greater number of his contemporaries -were scattered abroad in the pursuit of their respective professions; -new faces occupied the arena.” - -About the close of the year 1822 Heber received, through his friend, -the Right Honourable Watkins Williams Wynn, the offer of the bishopric -of Calcutta. Our traveller had long viewed with deep interest the -progress of Christianity in the East, and the prospect opened to him -by this offer, of contributing by his own zeal and exertions to the -success of so holy a cause, seems quickly to have outweighed in his -mind every consideration of personal interest, and to have determined -him, at all hazards, to accept of that distinguished but dangerous -post. The conduct of Mr. Wynn on this occasion, his ardent desire that -India should not be deprived of the services of so good, so great a -man (for virtue like Heber’s is true greatness), while he was scarcely -less unwilling to lose, certainly for a considerable time, if not, as -it happened, for ever, a friend of incomparable value, reflects the -highest honour on his heart and character. “The king,” said he, “has -returned his _entire_ approbation of your appointment to Calcutta, and -if I could only divide you, so as to leave one in England and send the -other to India, it would also have mine; but the die is now cast, and -we must not look on any side but that which stands uppermost.” To this -Heber replied, “For this last, as well as for all former proofs of your -kindness, accept my best thanks. God grant that my conduct in India may -be such as not to do your recommendation discredit, or make you repent -the flattering confidence which you have placed in me.” - -When Heber’s intention of leaving England was made known, he received -from every quarter those warm voluntary testimonies of affection and -regret which nothing but virtue, distinguished, persevering, exalted, -can command. His own parishioners, as was natural, were the foremost -in their demonstrations of their profound esteem. Rich, poor, old, and -young--all joined in presenting their exemplary pastor with a lasting -mark of the veneration in which his character was held among them. -“Almost the last business,” says Mrs. Heber, “which Dr. Heber (he had -recently been created D.D. by the University of Oxford) transacted -before he left Shropshire was settling a long-standing account, -in which he had been charged as debtor to the amount of a hundred -pounds; but it was believed by those who were best acquainted with -the circumstances, that he was not bound either in law or probity to -pay it. As he himself, however, did not feel certain on this point, -he resolved to pay the money, observing to a friend who endeavoured -to dissuade him, ‘How can I reasonably hope for a blessing on my -undertaking, or how can I commence so long a voyage with a quiet -conscience, if I leave even the shadow of a committed act of injustice -behind?’ About the same time an unknown person sent him a small sum of -money through the hands of a clergyman in Shrewsbury, confessing that -he had defrauded him of it, and stating that he could not endure to see -him leave England for such objects without relieving his own conscience -by making restitution. On the 22d of April, 1823,” she continues, “Dr. -Heber finally took leave of Shropshire: from a range of high grounds -near Newport, he turned back to catch a last view of his beloved -Hodnet; and here the feelings which he had hitherto suppressed in -tenderness to others burst forth unrestrained, and he uttered the words -which have proved prophetic, that he ‘should return to it no more!’” - -Heber, having made all necessary preparations for his long voyage, -and received consecration, repaired on the 16th of June on board the -Company’s ship Grenville, in which he and his family were to proceed -to India. As our traveller’s first desire, in whatever position he -happened to be placed, was to effect all the good in his power, he no -sooner found himself on board than he endeavoured to communicate to -the sailors a sense of their religious duties; which he did with all -that authority and effect which genius and virtue invariably exert over -inferior individuals. His exhortations were listened to attentively and -respectfully; and there can be no doubt produced, in many instances -at least, conviction and amendment of life. The influence which the -majestic simplicity of his character enabled him to exercise over his -rude audience may in some measure be conceived from the following -anecdote: “We had divine service on deck this morning,” says he; “a -large shoal of dolphins were playing round the ship, and I thought -it right to interfere to check the harpoons and fishing-hooks of -some of the crew. I am not strict in my notions of what is called the -Christian Sabbath; but the wanton destruction of animal life seems to -be precisely one of those works by which the sanctity and charity of -our weekly feast would be profaned. The sailors took my reproof in good -part.” Such were his occupations until, on the 3d of October, the ship -safely anchored in Sangor roads, in the Hoogly, or great western branch -of the Ganges. - -Heber was now arrived in the most extraordinary region, Greece and -Egypt perhaps excepted, which has ever been inhabited by mankind. And -he was well calculated by his high enthusiasm, extensive learning, -and remarkable freedom from prejudice, to conceive all the splendour -of the scene before him, to enter profoundly into the spirit of its -institutions, and to describe with graceful and simple eloquence the -picturesque variety of manners which the natives of this vast empire -present to the contemplation of a stranger. “Two observations struck -me forcibly,” says he; “first, that the deep bronze tint (observable -in the Hindoos) is more naturally agreeable to the human eye than the -fair skins of Europe, since we are not displeased with it even in the -first instance, while it is well known that to them a fair complexion -gives the idea of ill health, and of that sort of deformity which in -our eyes belongs to an Albino. There is, indeed, something in a negro -which requires long habit to reconcile the eye to him; but for this -the features and the hair, far more than the colour, are answerable. -The second observation was, how entirely the idea of indelicacy, which -would naturally belong to such naked figures as those now around us, -if they were white, is prevented by their being of a different colour -from ourselves. So much are we children of association and habit, and -so instinctively and immediately do our feelings adapt themselves to -a total change of circumstances! It is the partial and inconsistent -change only which affects us.” - -They now entered the mighty Ganges, and sailing up towards Calcutta -through the Sunderbunds, or rather along their western limit, beheld -their dark impenetrable forests stretching away interminably towards -the right, while a rich vegetable fragrance was wafted from the shore. -The current of the river, when increased by the ebb-tide, was found -as they ascended to be tremendously rapid, running at no less a rate, -according to their pilot, than ten or eleven miles an hour. On arriving -at Calcutta, Heber found that the ecclesiastical business of his -bishopric, at all times multiplex and extensive, had now, since the -death of Dr. Middleton, accumulated prodigiously; so that, although -he had come out neither with the expectation nor the wish to find his -place a sinecure, he felt somewhat alarmed at the laborious prospect -before him. However, he was a man accustomed to labour, and not easily -discouraged. He therefore diligently applied himself to business, and -had soon the satisfaction to find that, notwithstanding the formidable -appearance of things on his first arrival, it was still possible, after -fully performing his duty, which no consideration could induce him -to neglect, to command sufficient leisure for studying whatever was -curious or striking in the natural or moral aspect of Hindostan. Former -travellers, he now found, were, notwithstanding their numbers, very -far from having exhausted the subject, either because the phenomena of -Asiatic manners are, like those of the heavens, in a state of perpetual -change, or because these, continuing the same, which however they do -not, appear under various phases to different men, from being viewed by -each individual from the peculiar point of observation afforded by his -character and acquirements. - -In the course of seven months, Heber had achieved that portion of -his task which was to be performed in the capital. Next to this -in importance was his visitation through the Upper Provinces, an -expedition in which he had hoped to be accompanied by his family; -but this being rendered impracticable by the delicate health of his -wife, and the tender age of his infant child, he departed with his -domestic chaplain, Mr. Stowe, in a sixteen-oared pinnace, for Dacca. -The shores of the Ganges, though flat almost throughout Bengal, are -far from wanting in stately or picturesque objects. Lofty pagodas, -with their fantastic angular domes, towering over forests of bamboos, -banyans, and cocoa-trees; ruins of Mussulman palaces; wild tracts of -jungle inhabited by tigers; groves of peepul or tamarind-trees; with -Hindoo villages or hamlets, perched upon artificial mounds to escape -the periodical inundations of the river. But no scene is possessed of -all advantages. There is always some small drawback, to afford man an -excuse for enjoying the delicious pleasure of complaining. “One of the -greatest plagues we have yet met with in this journey,” says Heber, “is -that of the winged bugs. In shape, size, and scent, with the additional -faculty of flying, they resemble the ‘grabbatic’ genus, too well -known in England. The night of our lying off Barrackpoor, they were -troublesome; but when we were off the rajah’s palace, they came out, -like the ghosts of his ancestor’s armies, in hundreds and thousands -from every bush and every heap of ruins, and so filled our cabins as -to make them barely endurable. These unhappy animals crowded round our -candles in such swarms, some just burning their feet and wings on the -edge of the glass shade, and thus toppling over, others, more bold, -flying right into the crater, and meeting their death there, that we -really paid no attention to what was next day a ghastly spectacle,--the -mighty army which had settled on the wet paint of the ceiling, and -remained there, black and stinking, till the ants devoured them. These -last swarm in my pinnace: they have eaten up no inconsiderable portion -of my provisions, and have taken, I trust to their benefit, a whole -box of blue pills; but as they do their best to clear it of all other -vermin, I cannot but look upon them with some degree of favour.” - -A gentleman travelling as Heber travelled in India is likely to meet -with few personal adventures. He runs no risk, except from the climate, -and moves on smoothly from one station to another, in that state of -tranquillity which is useful, if not necessary, to calm, dispassionate -observation. Thus our traveller sailed from Calcutta to Dacca, once -renowned for the spaciousness and splendour of its palaces, but now -ruined, deserted, and reduced to be the haunt of bats, serpents, and -every loathsome thing. Here, in an interview with the nawâb, who, like -his imperial master of Delhi, has long been reduced to subsist upon the -bounty of the Company, Heber exhibited that delicate regard for the -feelings of a man, - - Fallen from his high estate, - -which a careful observation of his previous life would have led us to -expect from him. Here he had the misfortune to lose Mr. Stowe, his -domestic chaplain, who, by his many excellent and amiable qualities, -had long occupied the place of a friend in his affections. - -From Dacca, where his stay was much longer than he had anticipated, he -proceeded up the river. Furreedpoor, his next station, did not long -detain him. Near Rajmahal he approached, but did not visit, the ruins -of Gour, an ancient city, which almost rivalled Babylon or Nineveh -in extent, and which fell to decay, because the Ganges, which once -flowed under its walls, changed its bed, and took another direction, -six or seven miles south of the city. However, on arriving next day -at the town of Rajmahal, to make up in some measure for this loss, -he undertook a short excursion to the ruined palace of Sultan Sujah, -brother of Araungzêbe. “I was a little at a loss,” says he, “to find -my way through the ruins and young jungle, when a man came up, and -in Persian, with many low bows, offered his services. He led me into -a sort of second court, a little lower on the hill, where I saw two -European tombs, and then to three very beautiful arches of black slate, -on pillars of the same, leading into a small but singularly elegant -hall, opening immediately on the river, though a considerable height -above it, through similar arches to those by which we entered. The -roof was vaulted with stone, delicately carved, and the walls divided -by Gothic tracery into panels, still retaining traces of gilding -and Arabic inscriptions. At each end of this beautiful room was a -Gothic arch, in like manner of slate, leading into two small square -apartments, ornamented in the same way, and also opening on the river. -The centre room might be thirty feet long, each of the others fifteen -square. For their size I cannot conceive more delightful apartments. -The view was very fine. The river, as if incensed at having been -obliged to make a circuit round the barrier of the hills, and impeded -here again by the rocks under the castle, sweeps round this corner with -exceeding violence, roaring and foaming like a gigantic Dee. The range -of hills runs to the left-hand, beautiful, blue, and woody.” - -From thence he proceeded, as before, up the Ganges, observing whatever -was remarkable, making a short stay at each of the European stations on -his way, for the purpose of preaching or baptizing, and arrived on the -20th of August at Patna. At this city, which is extensive, and situated -in a commanding position, he remained several days, for the purpose -of preaching and administering confirmation. He then continued his -voyage to Ghazeepoor, famous for its rose-gardens and salubrious air. -“The rose-fields, which occupy many hundred acres in the neighbourhood, -are described as, at the proper season, extremely beautiful. They are -cultivated for distillation, and for making ‘attar.’ Rose-water is both -good and cheap here. The price of a seer, or weight of two pounds (a -large quart), of the best, being eight anas, or a shilling. The attar -is obtained after the rose-water is made, by setting it out during the -night and till sunrise in the morning, in large open vessels exposed to -the air, and then skimming off the essential oil which floats at the -top.” “To produce one rupee’s weight of attar, two hundred thousand -well-grown roses are required.” This small quantity, when warranted -genuine, for they begin to adulterate it on the spot, costs one hundred -sicca rupees, or ten pounds sterling. - -A short way farther up the stream, Heber quitted his pinnace, and -providing himself with bearers, continued his journey to Benares by -land. Of Benares I have already given a brief description in the Life -of Bernier. Heber’s stay in it was short. He visited with attention its -principal curiosities, and conversed on several points with some of -its Brahminical professors, whose belief in Hindooism he regarded as -very equivocal. He then continued his voyage up the river to Allahabad, -where he dismissed his pinnace, and made the necessary preparations for -performing the remainder of his journey by land. Archdeacon Corrie, -who had accompanied him from Calcutta, and Mr. Lushington, whom he -joined on the way, were now his travelling companions, and with their -attendants helped to increase his motley caravan, which consisted -of twenty-four camels, eight carts drawn by bullocks, twenty-four -horse-servants, ten ponies, forty bearers, and coolies of different -descriptions, twelve tent-pitchers, and a guard of twenty sepoys -under a native officer. With this retinue, which in the eyes of a -European would have had something of a princely air, Heber proceeded -by the way of Cawnpoor to Lucknow, the capital of the kingdom of Oude, -where he enjoyed the honour of breakfasting with the monarch of this -ill-governed state, who, on this occasion at least, appeared desirous -of imitating the manners of the English. - -At Lucknow Heber separated from his companions; and, accompanied merely -by his attendants, directed his course towards the wild districts at -the foot of the Himalaya. On arriving at Barelly, not more than fifty -miles distant from the nearest range, he vainly looked out for the -snowy peaks of this “monarch of mountains;” but, instead, discovered -nothing but a ridge of black clouds, and a gray autumnal haze through -which no object was discernible. The features of the country now became -wild and striking. Forests infested by malaria, tigers, and lions, -and half-desolate plains, announced the termination of the fertile -provinces of Hindostan, and the approach to a different region. Here -“we had,” says Heber, “a first view of the range of the Himalaya,[4] -indistinctly seen through the haze, but not so indistinctly as to -conceal the general form of the mountains. The nearer hills are blue, -and in outline and tints resemble pretty closely, at this distance, -those which close in the vale of Clwyd. Above these rose what might, -in the present unfavourable atmosphere, have been taken for clouds, -had not their seat been so stationary, and their outline so harsh and -pyramidical--the patriarchs of the continent, perhaps the surviving -ruins of a former world, white and glistening as alabaster, and even at -this distance, of probably one hundred and fifty miles, towering above -the nearer and secondary range, as much as those last (though said to -be seven thousand six hundred feet high) are above the plain in which -we were standing. I felt intense delight and awe in looking on them, -but the pleasure lasted not many minutes; the clouds closed in again, -as on the fairy castle of St. John, and left us but the former gray -cold horizon, girding in the green plain of Rohiland, and broken only -by people and mango-trees.” - -[4] The Himalaya mountains have been said, by some other travellers, -to be visible, in clear weather, from Patna, a distance of two -hundred miles. The fact appears to be by no means improbable. From -the window of the library in which these pages are written, the snowy -mountains of Switzerland and Savoy--Mont Blanc, the Great and Little -St. Bernard, and the peaks of St. Corvin and St. Gothard--are almost -constantly visible during the prevalence of the south-west wind. From -the appearance of these mountains a tolerable idea may be formed of the -aspect of the Himalaya. During summer thin vapours commonly obstruct -the view, except in the early dawn; and if, as sometimes happens, the -white peaks appear in the afternoon, when the sun’s rays are streaming -upon them from the west, they are generally, by the unpractised -observer, mistaken for clouds. But in the cool autumnal mornings just -before the sun rises above the horizon, Mont Blanc, though one hundred -and twenty-five miles distant, is painted with astonishing distinctness -upon the sky, and towering above the sea of white vapour which -overspreads the great plain of Burgundy and rises almost to the summit -of the Jura, seems but a few leagues distant. A little before sunset it -presents a totally different aspect. Instead of the dusky mass which we -beheld in the morning, we discover the “monarch of mountains” clothed -in dazzling white, rising far above every surrounding object; while the -glittering pinnacles of the inferior mountains seem to stretch away -interminably to the right and left, until their peaks are confounded -and lost in the dimness of the horizon. The Mont St. Gothard, which is -very distinctly visible, at least during clear weather, is distant one -hundred and seventy miles from the point of observation. With respect -to Mont Blanc, its whole aspect, when viewed through a good telescope, -is so admirably defined, that every inequality in its surface is -clearly discernible, so that an excellent sketch of it might be taken -from my library. The dark chain of the Jura, which conceals its base, -and stretches from Geneva almost to the Rhine, increases by contrast -the magnificence of the view, which, for extent and grandeur, falls -very little short, perhaps, of any landscape in Europe. - -Next day, soon after sunrise, he saw distinctly, painted on a clear -blue sky, the prodigiously lofty pinnacles of these mountains, the -centre of earth, - - Its altar, and its cradle, and its throne, - -which, as he justly observes, “are really among the greatest earthly -works of the Almighty Creator’s hands--the highest spots below the -moon--and overtopping by many hundred feet the summits of Cotopaxi and -Chimborazo.” To approach these mountains, however, from the south, the -traveller has to traverse a belt of forest and jungle, where the air -is impregnated with the most deadly qualities. “I asked Mr. Boulderson -if it were true,” says Heber, “that the monkeys forsook these woods -during the unwholesome months. He answered that not the monkeys only, -but every thing which has the breath of life instinctively deserts -them, from the beginning of April to October. The tigers go up to the -hills, the antelopes and wild hogs make incursions into the cultivated -plain; and those persons, such as dâkbearers, or military officers -who are obliged to traverse the forests in the intervening months, -agree that not so much as a bird can be heard or seen in the frightful -solitude.” Yet the insalubrity of these districts is not of any ancient -date. Thirty years ago, though fever and ague were common, the plains -were populous and productive, and considerable progress was made in -reclaiming the forest; but the devastation consequent upon the invasion -of Meer Khan, in 1805, checked the course of population, which has -never since been able to recover itself. - -Through this deadly region Heber passed with all possible rapidity, -though the majestic trees which bordered the road, the songs of the -birds in their branches (for it was now November), and the luxuriant -vegetation which on all sides covered the soil, conferred a kind of -syren beauty upon the scene, which tempted the wayfarer to a fatal -pause. At length, after a long, fatiguing march, they found themselves -upon rising ground, at the entrance to a green valley, with woody -mountains on either side, and a considerable river running through it, -dashing over a rocky bottom, with great noise and violence. The scenery -now put on features of surpassing beauty. Mountains, precipices, -narrow romantic dells; with rivers which were sometimes seen, and -sometimes only heard rolling at the bottom of them; trees inhabited by -innumerable white monkeys and singing birds, and copses abounding in -black and purple pheasants. When they had climbed up to a considerable -height upon the lower range of the mountains, there burst suddenly -upon their sight the most awfully magnificent spectacle which the -earth furnishes for the contemplation of man. Language always fails to -convey an adequate conception of the tumultuous delight experienced -in such positions. The mind, wrought upon by history, by poetry, by a -secret hungering after the sublime, instantaneously feels itself in the -presence of objects which, by their prodigious magnitude and elevation, -enhanced by an idea of their unapproachableness, seem for a moment -to surpass the most ambitious aspirations of the imagination, and in -reality carry our thoughts - - Extra flammantia mænia mundi. - -Our traveller, standing on the platform from whence the Indian Caucasus -can be most advantageously contemplated, beheld a range of snow-white -pinnacles, which, stretching like an interminable line of shining -spears from east to west, appeared with their glittering points to -pierce the deep blue sky, which formed the ground of this landscape of -unrivalled glory and splendour. At the foot of these mountains stands -Almorah, the last point of Heber’s journey in this direction; whence, -after a short stay, he again descended to the plain, and pursued his -route to Meerut, and thence to Delhi. - -The imperial city, the ruins of which extend over a surface as large -as London, is still the residence of the descendants of the Mogul -sovereigns of India. The reader who remembers how superb it was when -visited by Bernier will learn with a melancholy regret that all its -grandeur and power have departed from it, leaving in their stead want, -wretchedness, decay, and disease. Heber was presented to the poor old -man who, as the descendant of Akbar, is still, as it were in mockery, -denominated “Emperor of Delhi.” Those who delight to triumph over -fallen greatness may purchase this pleasure by a journey to Delhi; for -myself, much as I abhor a tyrant, few remote scenes of distress, unless -such in which whole nations are sufferers, could touch me more sensibly -than the misfortunes of this Mogul prince, and I exclaim, with the -prophet, “How are the mighty fallen!” It is true they deserved their -fate--history in their, as in all other cases, justifies the ways of -Providence--but we therefore pity them the more; and, before we lift -up our hand to cast a stone at them, our heart involuntarily forms the -earnest wish that we may by our justice and equity deserve the diadem -which we have wrested from their brows. This consideration is the only -thing which can confer an interest on such a presentation. In every -other point of view it is, like every thing of the kind, a vulgar show, -which has no more meaning than a theatrical exhibition. - -From Delhi Heber proceeded to the still more ancient capital of Agra, -where the principal objects of curiosity “are the Motee Musjeed, a -beautiful mosque of white marble, carved with exquisite simplicity -and elegance; and the palace built by Akbar, in a great degree of the -same material, and containing some noble rooms, now sadly disfigured -and destroyed by neglect, and by being used as warehouses, armories, -offices, and lodging-rooms for the garrison. The hall, now used as -the ‘Dewanny Aum,’ or public court of justice, is a splendid edifice, -supported by pillars and arches of white marble, as large and more -nobly simple than that of Delhi. The ornaments, carving, and mosaic of -the smaller apartments, in which was formerly the Zenanah, are equal -or superior to any thing which is described as found in the Alhambra. -The view from those rooms is very fine, at the same time that there -are some, adapted for the hot winds, from which light is carefully -excluded. This suite is lined with small mirrors in fantastic frames; -a cascade of water, also surrounded by mirrors, has been made to gush -from a recess at the upper end, and marble channels, beautifully inlaid -with cornelians, agates, and jasper, convey the stream to every side -of the apartment.” Heber likewise visited the Taj-mahal, which I have -described in the Life of Bernier, and observes, that after hearing its -praises ever since he had been in India, its beauty rather exceeded -than fell short of his expectations. After holding a confirmation, -at which about forty persons were made full members of the Christian -church, our traveller departed from Agra, and commenced his journey -across the independent states of Western India. During this portion of -his travels he obtained, from unexceptionable authority, an account -of the gorgeous style in which that fortunate adventurer, Sir David -Ochterlony, lived in Central India. “Dr. Smith,” he observes, “in his -late march from Mhow to Meerut, passed by Sir David’s camp. The ‘barra -sahib,’ or great man, was merely travelling with his own family and -personal followers from Delhi to Jyepoor, but his retinue, including -servants, escort, European and native aids-de-camp, and the various -nondescripts of an Asiatic train, together with the apparatus of -horses, elephants, and camels--the number of his tents, and the size -of the enclosure, hung round with red cloth, by which his own and his -daughter’s private tents were fenced in from the eyes of the profane, -were what a European, or even an old Indian whose experience had been -confined to Bengal, would scarcely be brought to credit.” - -Our traveller’s journey through Rajpootana was attended by -circumstances flattering to his personal feelings. The petty -sovereigns through whose dominions his route lay invariably received -him hospitably when he visited their capitals, and on some occasions, -when he did not choose to diverge so far from the road, sent messengers -expressly to meet him on the way with polite invitations to their -court. He pushed on, however, with considerable expedition, and -having traversed the territories, and beheld the capitals of Jyepoor, -Ajmere, Bunaira, and others, proceeded, by way of Neemuch and Baroda, -to Bombay. His time, during his stay in this city, was principally -occupied with ecclesiastical business, in promoting the founding -of schools, and in conversing with that venerable statesman and -traveller, Mr. Elphinstone, the governor, who, from the most humane and -enlightened motives, has endeavoured, with success, to diffuse among -the natives a knowledge of our literature and sciences. Here Heber had -the satisfaction of being joined by his wife and elder child. With -these, shortly afterward, he visited the cavern temples of Elephanta -and Kennery; and subsequently, in company with Archdeacon Barnes, -made an excursion across the Western Ghants to Poonah, in the Deccan, -during which he enjoyed an opportunity of examining another celebrated -cavern temple at Carlee. I cannot refuse myself the pleasure, or -deprive the reader of the advantage, of inserting in this place the -character which Heber has drawn of the most extraordinary man whom he -encountered during his travels. “Mr. Elphinstone,” says he, “is in -every respect an extraordinary man, possessing great activity of body -and mind; remarkable talent for and application to public business; a -love of literature, and a degree of almost universal information, such -as I have met with in no other person similarly situated, and manners -and conversation of the most amiable and interesting character. While -he has seen more of India and the adjoining countries than any man -now living, and has been engaged in active political and sometimes -military duties since the age of eighteen, he has found time, not only -to cultivate the languages of Hindostan and Persia, but to preserve -and extend his acquaintance with the Greek and Latin classics, with -the French and Italian, with all the elder and more distinguished -English writers, and with the current and popular literature of the -day, both in poetry, history, politics, and political economy. With -these remarkable accomplishments, and notwithstanding a temperance -amounting to rigid abstinence, he is fond of society; and it is a -common subject of surprise with his friends, at what hour of the day or -night he found time for the acquisition of knowledge. His policy, so -far as India is concerned, appeared to me peculiarly wise and liberal, -and he is evidently attached to, and thinks well of, the country and -its inhabitants. His public measures, in their general tendency, evince -a steady wish to improve their present condition. No government in -India pays so much attention to schools and public institutions for -education. In none are the taxes lighter; and in the administration of -justice to the natives in their own languages, in the establishment of -punchacts, in the degree in which he employs the natives in official -situations, and the countenance and familiarity which he extends to -all the natives of rank who approach him, he seems to have reduced to -practice almost all the reforms which had struck me as most required -in the system of government pursued in those provinces of our eastern -empire which I had previously visited.” - -From Bombay, Heber sailed with his wife and daughter to Ceylon, a large -portion of which he visited. He then proceeded to Calcutta. On the 30th -of January, 1826, shortly after his recovery from a fever, he again -quitted his family for the purpose of visiting Madras and the southern -provinces of India. At Madras he was received with great kindness by -Sir Thomas Munro, who was warmly desirous of rendering his position -as little disagreeable as the season and climate would permit. From -thence he proceeded through Caddalore and Tanjore to Trichinopoly, -where, on the 3d of April, 1826, his pious, active, and valuable life -was closed. “It were a useless,” says Mrs. Heber, “and a deeply painful -task to enter into any detail of the apparent cause of his death: it is -sufficient to say that disease had, unsuspected, been existing for some -time; and that it was the opinion of all the medical men in attendance, -that under no circumstances could his invaluable life have been very -long preserved, though the event was undoubtedly hastened by the -effects of climate, by intense mental application to those duties which -increased in interest with every step he took, and was finally caused -by the effects of cold on a frame exhausted by heat and fatigue.” His -mortal remains were attended to the grave with the highest honours, and -followed by the tears of the inhabitants of Trichinopoly. They rest on -the north side of the altar in St. John’s Church. - - - - -THE END. - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - - -A number of typographical errors were corrected silently. - -Cover image is in the public domain. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED -TRAVELLERS, VOL. III (OF 3) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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