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diff --git a/6721-h/6721-h.htm b/6721-h/6721-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..43f4cd1 --- /dev/null +++ b/6721-h/6721-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,16398 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01//EN"> +<html lang="en"> + +<head> + <title>The Voyages of Captain Scott</title> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> + <meta name="keywords" content="antarctica scott expedition ice cold"> + <meta name="author" content="Charles Turley"> + <meta name="rating" content="General"> + <meta name="robots" content="all"> + <style type="text/css"> + <!-- + BODY { color: black; background: white; + margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + P.indent { text-indent: 3mm; text-align: justify; } + P.footnote { font-size: smaller; } + P.subtitle { text-align: center; font-size: large; } + P.center { text-align: center; } + P.author { font-size: larger; text-align: center; } + P.bquote { margin-left: 4em; } + P.plist { margin-left: 2em; } + P.index { font-size: smaller; + margin-top: 1px; margin-bottom: 1px; + text-indent: -5mm; padding-left: 5mm; } + H1 { text-align: center; margin-top: 2em; } + H2 { text-align: center; margin-top: 4em; } + H3 { text-align: center; margin-top: 4em; } + TABLE.center { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } + TD.right { text-align: right; } + SPAN.page { position: absolute; left: 87%; right: auto; + text-align: right; text-indent: 0em; + color: gray; background: white; + font-size: 9pt; font-weight: normal; } + DIV.image { text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; } + --> + </style> + +</head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott + Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's + Last Expedition' + +Author: Charles Turley + +Release Date: January 7, 2006 [EBook #6721] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT *** + + + + +Produced by Robert J. Hall + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="image" style="width: 456px;"> +<a name="page_ii"><span class="page">Page ii</span></a> +<img src="images/fig001.jpg" width="456" height="676" + alt="Captain Robert F. Scott R.N."> +</div> + +<h1> +<a name="page_iii"><span class="page">Page iii</span></a> +THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT +</h1> + +<p class="center"> +<i>Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's Last +Expedition'</i> +</p> + +<p class="author"> +BY CHARLES TURLEY +</p> + +<p class="center"> +Author of 'Godfrey Marten, Schoolboy,' 'A Band of Brothers,' etc. +</p> + +<p class="center"> +With an introduction by +</p> + +<p class="center"> +SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART. +</p> + +<p class="center"> +Numerous illustrations in colour and black and white and a map +</p> + +<h2> +<a name="page_v"><span class="page">Page v</span></a> +CONTENTS +</h2> + +<p>INTRODUCTION</p> + +<p>THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'</p> + +<table border="0"> + <tr><td>Chapter</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">I.</td> + <td><a href="#page_15">The 'Discovery'.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">II.</td> + <td><a href="#page_31">Southward Ho!</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">III.</td> + <td><a href="#page_52">In Search of Winter + Quarters.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">IV.</td> + <td><a href="#page_74">The Polar Winter.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">V.</td> + <td><a href="#page_95">The Start of the Southern + Journey.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VI.</td> + <td><a href="#page_120">The Return.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VII.</td> + <td><a href="#page_137">A Second Winter.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VIII.</td> + <td><a href="#page_151">The Western Journey.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">IX.</td> + <td><a href="#page_167">The Return from the West.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">X.</td> + <td><a href="#page_178">Release.</a></td></tr> +</table> + +<p>THE LAST EXPEDITION</p> + + +<table border="0"> + <tr><td>Chapter</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_203">Preface to 'Scott's Last + Expedition'.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_206">Biographical Note.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_208">British Antarctic Expedition, + 1910.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">I.</td> + <td><a name="page_vi"><span class="page">Page vi</span></a> + <a href="#page_211">Through Stormy Seas.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">II.</td> + <td><a href="#page_231">Depôt Laying to One Ton + Camp.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">III.</td> + <td><a href="#page_254">Perils.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">IV.</td> + <td><a href="#page_269">A Happy Family.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">V.</td> + <td><a href="#page_294">Winter.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VI.</td> + <td><a href="#page_311">Good-bye to Cape Evans.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VII.</td> + <td><a href="#page_328">The Southern Journey Begins.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">VIII.</td> + <td><a href="#page_354">On the Beardmore Glacier.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">IX.</td> + <td><a href="#page_373">The South Pole.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">X.</td> + <td><a href="#page_385">On the Homeward Journey.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">XI.</td> + <td><a href="#page_401">The Last March.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_418">Search Party Discovers the Tent.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_419">In Memoriam.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_421">Farewell Letters.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#page_430">Message to the Public.</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="right"> </td> + <td><a href="#index">Index.</a></td></tr> +</table> + +<h2> +<a name="page_vii"><span class="page">Page vii</span></a> +ILLUSTRATIONS +</h2> + +<p><i>PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE</i></p> + +<p class="plist"> +Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott<br> +<i>From a photograph by J. Russell & Son, Southsea</i>. +</p> + +<p><i>COLOURED PLATES</i></p> + +<p class="plist"> +<i>From Water-Colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.</i>.</p> + +<p class="plist"> +Sledding.<br /> +Mount Erebus.<br /> +Lunar Corona.<br /> +'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp. +</p> + +<p><i>DOUBLE PAGE PLATE</i></p> + +<p class="plist"> +Panorama at Cape Evans.<br /> +Berg in South Bay. +</p> + +<p><i>FULL PAGE PLATES</i></p> + +<p class="plist"> +Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet.<br /> +The 'Discovery'.<br /> +Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.<br /> +Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.<br /> +Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.<br /> +The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.<br /> +Pony Camp on the barrier.<br /> +Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.<br /> +Pitching the double tent on the summit.<br /> +<a name="page_viii"><span class="page">Page viii</span></a> +Adélie Penguin on nest.<br /> +Emperor Penguins on sea-ice.<br /> +Dog party starting from Hut Point.<br /> +Dog lines.<br /> +Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.<br /> +Looking south from Lower Glacier depôt,<br /> +Man hauling camp, 87th parallel.<br /> +The party at the South Pole.<br /> +'The Last Rest'.<br /> +Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal.<br /> +Track chart of main southern journey. +</p> + +<h2> +<a name="page_1"><span class="page">Page 1</span></a> +INTRODUCTION +</h2> + +<p class="subtitle">BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately +home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief +recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing +man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the +streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I then +escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long through +the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the life of +action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those who +sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he assured +me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems to have +been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I had drawn +this from him with a promise that, if his reply was satisfactory, I +would let him go to bed. However, the family traditions (they are +nothing more) do bring him from across the border. According to +them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott of Brownhead whose +estates were sequestered after the '45. His dwelling was razed +to the ground and he fled with his wife, to whom after some grim +privations a son was born in a fisherman's hut on September 14, +1745. This son eventually settled in Devon, where he prospered, +<a name="page_2"><span class="page">Page 2</span></a> +for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands that he died. He +had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the eldest had as +youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the Captain Scott who +was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the same date, or perhaps +a little earlier, it was decided that the boy should go into the +Navy like so many of his for-bears. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days of +Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may have +some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain Scott; +and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some chance +for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things does +not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history aged +six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in velveteen, +being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping horribly, +like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest recollection of +him of a sister, who was too young to join in a children's party +on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always called, had intimated +to her that from a window she would be able to see him taking a +noble lead in the festivities in the garden, and she looked; and +that is what she saw. He had been showing his guests how superbly +he could jump the leat, and had fallen into it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch of +the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another +branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These were +the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many ways of +being in them accidentally, it being forbidden +<a name="page_3"><span class="page">Page 3</span></a> +to enter them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother +a new version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of +'Touch.' You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little +good fortune, one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not +so much matter though you got wetter. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields was +to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned the easy +ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach to this +dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his country and +of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties of gallant tars +to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At foot of the avenue +was an oak tree which hung over the road, and thus by dropping from +this tree you got into open country. The tree was (at this time) +of an enormous size, with sufficient room to conceal a navy, and +the navy consisted mainly of the sisters and the young brother. +All had to be ready at any moment to leap from the tree and join +issue with the enemy on the leat. In the fields there was also a +mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups 'the pond,' and here Scott's +battleship lay moored. It seems for some time to have been an English +vessel, but by and by he was impelled, as all boys are, to blow +something up, and he could think of nothing more splendid for his +purpose than the battleship. Thus did it become promptly a ship +of the enemy doing serious damage to the trade of those parts, +and the valiant Con took to walking about with lips pursed, brows +frowning as he cogitated how to remove the +<a name="page_4"><span class="page">Page 4</span></a> +Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters and brother trotting +by his side and looking anxiously into his set face. At last he +decided to blow the accursed thing up with gunpowder. His crew +cheered, and then waited to be sent to the local shop for a pennyworth +of gunpowder. But Con made his own gunpowder, none of the faithful +were ever told how, and on a great day the train was laid. Con applied +the match and ordered all to stand back. A deafening explosion was +expected, but a mere puff of flame was all that came; the Terror +of Devon, which to the unimaginative was only a painted plank, +still rode the waters. With many boys this would be the end of +the story, but not with Con. He again retired to the making of +gunpowder, and did not desist from his endeavors until he had blown +that plank sky-high. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is probably +the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly always given +it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was with Con, and a +few minutes after he had sworn that he would not open it he was +begging for permission to use it on a tempting sapling. 'Very well,' +his father said grimly, 'but remember, if you hurt yourself, don't +expect any sympathy from me.' The knife was opened, and to cut +himself rather badly proved as easy as falling into the leat. The +father, however, had not noticed, and the boy put his bleeding +hand into his pocket and walked on unconcernedly. He was really +considerably damaged; and this is a good story of a child of seven +who all his life suffered extreme nausea from +<a name="page_5"><span class="page">Page 5</span></a> +the sight of blood; even in the <i>Discovery</i> days, to get accustomed +to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch Dr. Wilson skinning +his specimens. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess, +and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel +and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between +Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in +vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing +other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this +is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a +gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and when +he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be seen. He +walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic was that +he called at police-stations on the way to give practical details +of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children would have +thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange mixture of the +dreamy and the practical, and never more practical than immediately +after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and time altogether when +thus abstracted. I remember the first time he dined with me, when +a number of well-known men had come to meet him, he arrived some +two hours late. He had dressed to come out, then fallen into one +of his reveries, forgotten all about the engagement, dined by himself +and gone early to bed. Just as he was falling asleep he remembered +where he should be, arose hastily and joined us as speedily as +possible. It was equally characteristic of him to say +<a name="page_6"><span class="page">Page 6</span></a> +of the other guests that it was pleasant to a sailor to meet so +many interesting people. When I said that to them the sailor was +by far the most interesting person in the room he shouted with +mirth. It always amused Scott to find that anyone thought him a +person of importance. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig002.jpg" width="551" height="800" + alt="Figure 2"> +<br />ROBERT F. SCOTT AT THE AGE OF 13 AS A NAVAL CADET. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as later +when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly +built. This was so far from being the case that there were many +anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could +not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary +number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined to +be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here printed, +in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had gone by the +time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no letters of +this period extant and thus little can be said of his years on the +<i>Britannia</i> where 'you never felt hot in your bunk because +you could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at port hole.' +He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who is not thought +well of by the other boys as well as by their instructors, but none +of them foresaw that he was likely to become anybody in particular. +He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father had dubbed him, owing to +his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him to work hard, he cast a +wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a good loser, he was untidy +to the point of slovenliness, and he had a fierce temper. All this +I think has been proved to me up to the +<a name="page_7"><span class="page">Page 7</span></a> +hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so cannot +be very different from the man he grows into it leaves me puzzled. +The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically as hard as +nails and flung himself into work or play with a vehemence I cannot +remember ever to have seen equaled. I have fished with him, played +cricket and football with him, and other games, those of his own +invention being of a particularly arduous kind, for they always +had a moment when the other players were privileged to fling a hard +ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,' was the last quality +you would think of when you saw him bearing down on you with that +ball, and it was the last he asked of you if you were bearing down +on him. He was equally strenuous of work; indeed I have no clearer +recollection of him than his way of running from play to work or work +to play, so that there should be the least possible time between. +It is the 'time between' that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott +lived less in it than anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the +best of losers, with a shout of delight for every good stroke by +an opponent: what is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat +and correct in his dress, quite a model for the youth who come +after him, but that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good +form' in the Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof. +I have never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and +I have seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have +been excusable. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was +<a name="page_8"><span class="page">Page 8</span></a> +none of those things I saw in him but something better. The faults +of his youth must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he +got to know they were there and he took an iron grip of them and +never let go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything +else that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud. +I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his manhood +days which are not strictly within the sphere of this introductory +note. The horror of slackness was turned into a very passion for +keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one time taking charge +of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race it all the way between +work and home, a distance of three miles. Even when he was getting +the <i>Discovery</i> ready and doing daily the work of several +men, he might have been seen running through the streets of London +from Savile Row or the Admiralty to his home, not because there +was no time for other method of progression, but because he must +be fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for him; he kept an eye for +ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly the most practical of +men. And practical in the cheeriest of ways. In 1894 a disastrous +change came over the fortunes of the family, the father's money +being lost and then Scott was practical indeed. A letter he wrote I +at this time to his mother, tenderly taking everything and everybody +on his shoulders, must be one of the best letters ever written by +a son, and I hope it may be some day published. His mother was the +great person of his early life, more to him even than his brother +<a name="page_9"><span class="page">Page 9</span></a> +or his father, whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of +following the sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all +bound up in this son, determined that Con should do the big things +he had not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the +head of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not +in an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He +never seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles +fell, and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became +famous as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old +Mooney' in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts, +in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district, +deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words, 'Wull +'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young gentleman +be here along?' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived +the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and +took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were +satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his sisters. +It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness so +far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model +for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While +there were others to help he would not spend his small means on +himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that he had +grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a pin. In +the days when he returned from +<a name="page_10"><span class="page">Page 10</span></a> +his first voyage in the Antarctic and all England was talking of him, +one of his most novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class +tailor and be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by +the possession of this as a child. When going about the country +lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was +sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red +carpets. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but by +now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days of which +unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends who remember +the tempers remember also the sunny smile that dissipated them. When +I knew him the sunny smile was there frequently, and was indeed +his greatest personal adornment, but the tempers never reached +the surface. He had become master of his fate and captain of his +soul. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In 1886 Scott became a middy on the <i>Boadicea</i>, and later +on various ships, one of them the <i>Rover</i>, of which Admiral +Fisher was at that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection +of a little black pig having been found under his bunk one night. +He cannot swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was +certainly one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a +punishment. In 1888 Scott passed his examinations for sub-lieutenant, +with four first-class honours and one second, and so left his boyhood +behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion to +these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld +<a name="page_11"><span class="page">Page 11</span></a> +Thomson that gives a very attractive glimpse of him in this same +year: +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find my +way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up and +the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found tramp +steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians hurrying off +to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked a very unpleasant lot +of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing Frisco toughs joined +me in my cabin, which was none too large for a single person. I was +then told that yet another had somehow to be wedged in. While I was +wondering if he could be a more ill-favored or dirtier specimen of +humanity than the others the last comer suddenly appeared—the +jolliest and breeziest English naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con +Scott. I had never seen him before, but we at once became friends +and remained so till the end. He was going up to join his ship +which, I think, was the <i>Amphion</i>, at Esquimault, B. C. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full +gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was so +overcrowded that a large number of women and children were allowed +to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on condition +that they got up early, so that the rest of the passengers could +come in for breakfast and the other meals. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a woman +was able to get up, and the +<a name="page_12"><span class="page">Page 12</span></a> +saloon was soon in an indescribable condition. Practically no attempt +was made to serve meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves +mostly out of action from drink or sea-sickness. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent +their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some of +our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share +of the waves that were washing the deck. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human +being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took +command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as their +Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of volunteers +he led an attack on the saloon—dressed the mothers, washed +the children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors and nursed +the sick, and performed every imaginable service for all hands. +On deck he settled the quarrels and established order either by +his personality, or, if necessary, by his fists. Practically by +day and night he worked for the common good, never sparing himself, +and with his infectious smile gradually made us all feel the whole +thing was jolly good fun. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself who, +after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds the +vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing +blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself for +the welfare and happiness of others.' +</p> + +<h2> +<a name="page_13"><span class="page">Page 13</span></a> +THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' +</h2> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig003.jpg" width="495" height="776" alt="Figure 3"> +<br />THE 'DISCOVERY'.<br /> +Reproduced from a drawing by Dr. E. A. Wilson. +</div> + +<h3> +<a name="page_15"><span class="page">Page 15</span></a> +CHAPTER I +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE <i>DISCOVERY</i></p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore<br> +Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave in +London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the Buckingham +Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first time of a +prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following day he called +upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of this eventful +visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there was a remarkable +coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant of the <i>Majestic</i>. +I was just sitting down to write to my old friend Captain Egerton[1] +about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command +the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great a +trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply +and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed +a foregone conclusion.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir +<a name="page_16"><span class="page">Page 16</span></a> +Clements and Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of +his cousin, the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the +acquaintance of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised +it. During the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott +more than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down +as a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir +Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy +stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this +Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead it. So +when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank of Commander, +and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the work that was +waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed from the shoulders +of the man who had not only proposed the expedition, but had also +resolved that nothing should prevent it from going. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered +before the <i>Discovery</i> could start upon her voyage. First +and foremost was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable +efforts the financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of +1899. Later on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy +with the objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him +that the Government eventually agreed to contribute £45,000, +provided that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the +<a name="page_17"><span class="page">Page 17</span></a> +special Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition, +was laid in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite +beginning, at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had +taken up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control +over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition, the +only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday. A visit +to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions from Dr. +Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there he discovered +that the German expedition, which was to sail from Europe at the same +time as his own, was already in an advanced state of preparation. +Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to England and found, as +he had expected, that all the arrangements, which were in full +swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill in England. The +construction of the ship was the only work that was progressing, +and even in this there were many interruptions from the want of +some one to give immediate decisions on points of detail. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on November +4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and the Royal +Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left Scott practically +with a free hand to push on the work in every department, under a +given estimate of expenditure in each. To safeguard the interests +of the two Societies the resolution provided that this expenditure +should be supervised by a Finance Committee, +<a name="page_18"><span class="page">Page 18</span></a> +and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties +were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests +to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally +arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it is mere +justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its members +began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of the undertaking. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as possible, +the various members of the expedition. Before he had left the +<i>Majestic</i> he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the intention +as regards the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody them from +the R.N.? I sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set his heart on +obtaining a naval crew, partly because he thought that their sense +of discipline would be invaluable, but also because he doubted +his ability to deal with any other class of men. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that +Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not from +any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions of principle +and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance in this respect +was limited to two officers, Scott himself and Royds, then the +limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer, a carpenter and +a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval nucleus was obtained. +But it was not until the spring of 1901 that the Admiralty, thanks to +Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald Douglas, gave in altogether, +and as the selection of +<a name="page_19"><span class="page">Page 19</span></a> +the most fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men +did not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters +in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal in +Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges, +ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while +tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples +of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily +on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes +depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly +be ready to start at the required date. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction +of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and the +carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous small +difficulties that arose in connection with the building of the +ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also been filled +up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in many places. +Some men were working on their especial subjects in the British +Museum, others were preparing themselves at the Physical Laboratory +at Kew, and others, again, were traveling in various directions +both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs the central office +was obliged to take notice, and so for its occupants idle moments +were few and very far between. Nansen said once that the hardest work +<a name="page_20"><span class="page">Page 20</span></a> +of a Polar voyage came in its preparation, and during the years +1900-1, Scott found ample cause to agree with him. But in spite +of conflicting interests, which at times threatened to wreck the +well-being of the expedition, work, having been properly organized, +went steadily forward; until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel +was launched at Dundee and named the '<i>Discovery</i>' by Lady +Markham. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best plan +was to revive some time-honoured title, and that few names were more +distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of that name, +and inherited a long record of honourable and fortunate service. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Discovery</i> had been nothing more than a skeleton when it +was decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London; +consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought +round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East +India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores +were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined +to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was laden. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen +strongly recommended a vessel of the <i>Fram</i> type with fuller +lines for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed +to consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had very +sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's +<a name="page_21"><span class="page">Page 21</span></a> +celebrated <i>Fram</i> was built for the specific object of remaining +safely in the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures +which were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object +was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of the +vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure +merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this design +was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation that +its conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What, however, +has been generally forgotten is that the safety of the <i>Fram</i> +was secured at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers of +ice-penetration. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Since the <i>Fram</i> was built there have been two distinct types +of Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security +in the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to sail +the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs. And +a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which of +these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration, because +it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all be prepared +to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and then be ready +to force her way through the ice-floes to the mysteries beyond. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances, +the old <i>Discovery</i> (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the +best ship that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the +Ship Committee eventually decided that the new vessel should be +built on more +<a name="page_22"><span class="page">Page 22</span></a> +or less the same lines. The new <i>Discovery</i> had the honour +to be the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration, and +the decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was more +than justified by her excellent qualities. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had to +be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the ship +gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass of solid +wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting. No single +tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the several trees +used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent of a solid +block. In further preparation for the battle with ice-floes, the +stem itself and the bow for three or four feet on either side were +protected with numerous steel plates, so that when the ship returned +to civilization not a scratch remained to show the hard knocks +received by the bow. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration. In +the outline drawing of the <i>Discovery</i> will be seen how largely +the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than +in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted +was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging a +large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the bows +were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship acting +downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would drop, and +gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against the +<a name="page_23"><span class="page">Page 23</span></a> +next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the elasticity +and strength to thrust its way without injury through the thick +Polar ice. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In Dundee the building of the <i>Discovery</i> aroused the keenest +interest, and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an entirely +new feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the strongest +criticism. All sorts of misfortunes were predicted, but events +proved that this overhanging rounded form of stem was infinitely +superior for ice-work to the old form of stem, because it gave +better protection to the rudder, rudder post and screw, and was +more satisfactory in heavy seas. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig004a.jpg" width="768" height="188" + alt="Figure 4a"> +<br />PROFILE DRAWING OF 'DISCOVERY'. +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig004b.jpg" width="735" height="164" + alt="Figure 4b"> +<br />OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF 'DISCOVERY' AND 'FRAM'. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the <i>Discovery</i> +the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,' was +an important place. For the best of reasons it was important that +the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should be as +accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood that magnetic +observations cannot be taken in a place closely surrounded by iron. +The ardor of the magnetic experts on the Ship Committee had led +them at first to ask that there should be neither iron nor steel +in the vessel, but after it had been pointed out that this could +scarcely be, a compromise was arrived at and it was agreed that +no magnetic materials should be employed within thirty feet of +the observatory. This decision caused immense trouble and expense, +but in the end it was justified, for the magnetic observations +taken on board throughout the voyage +<a name="page_25"><span class="page">Page 25</span></a> +required very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic +experts were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from +them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened +with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the ship was +on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into dire disgrace, +not because it was too talkative, but because it had been hanging +on the mess-deck during a whole set of observations, and the wires +of its cage were made of iron. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Discovery</i> was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel +ever built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about +his officers and men as he was about the ship herself. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small +wardroom of the <i>Discovery</i> was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage, +R.N.R. He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship +training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience; +for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in +1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth +Expedition to Franz-Josef Land. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service +in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were +expected to be light, he combined them with those of official botanist. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook +or crook all the strange beasts +<a name="page_26"><span class="page">Page 26</span></a> +that inhabit the Polar seas, and no greater enthusiast for his work +could have been chosen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do +with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in +the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war. +Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face of +great difficulties he secured the most valuable records. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott in +the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the expedition +had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted for a voyage +where there were many elements of dangers and difficulty.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The original idea in appointing two doctors to the <i>Discovery</i> +was that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party. +This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason +to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed +was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which arose +between them, and which in the end was destined to make history, it +is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is believed to +be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter headed 'At +sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who will do great +things some day—Wilson. He has quite the keenest intellect +on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know his artistic +talent, but would be surprised at +<a name="page_27"><span class="page">Page 27</span></a> +the speed at which he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which +he is always at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps +with any job that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow +all round. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate +zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity he +dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the second +he produced a very large number of excellent pictures and sketches +of the wild scenes among which he was living. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to +apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer. +At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and his +appointment to the <i>Discovery</i> was most fortunate in every +way. From first to last there was no serious difficulty with the +machinery or with anything connected with it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition a +short time before the <i>Discovery</i> sailed, and the physicist, +Louis Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout +the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was obliged +to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was taken by +George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the Navy when +he joined. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson, +<a name="page_28"><span class="page">Page 28</span></a> +who was thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members +of the wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that +time Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar +service. Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced +as the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his +last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is the +younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says he never +felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between 30 and +40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course. He is +29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember that Peary +was 52!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three +years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen, and +Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers, petty +officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval discipline +that is very necessary for such conditions as exist in Polar service. +The <i>Discovery</i>, it must be remembered, was not in Government +employment, and so had no more stringent regulations to enforce +discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping Act. But +everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was under the +Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known that this +state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much credit as +the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously to observe it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_29"><span class="page">Page 29</span></a> +Something remains to be said about the <i>Discovery's</i> prospective +course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested that +the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants, to be +named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and the +Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant should +be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was received +with such unanimous approval that long before the <i>Discovery</i> +was built her prospective course had been finally decided. In fact +every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in the +Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions +on such a voyage as the <i>Discovery's</i> it may be thought that, +when once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better. +Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom +to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general +view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the various +objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is clearly to +the commander's advantage to know in what light these interests +are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise. Of such a +nature were the instructions Scott received before sailing for +the South. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable +assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid +it is doubtful if the <i>Discovery</i> would ever have started +had it not been +<a name="page_30"><span class="page">Page 30</span></a> +that among these helpers was one who, from the first, had given +his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand. After all +is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the idea of this +Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful personality which +swept aside all obstacles and obstructions. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_31"><span class="page">Page 31</span></a> +CHAPTER II +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">SOUTHWARD HO!</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,<br /> +They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.<br /> +Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away.<br /> +And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay.<br /> + —NEWBOLT. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +On July 31, 1901, the <i>Discovery</i> left the London Docks, and +slowly wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5, +she was honoured by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. +This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties +showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time +it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed +by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets and +return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage were +also not to be forgotten—a voyage to the Antarctic, the very +map of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following +on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and +James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the +Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered +therefore that his great anxieties were +<a name="page_32"><span class="page">Page 32</span></a> +to be off and doing, to justify the existence of the expedition at +the earliest possible moment, and to obey the instructions which +had been given him? +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Before the <i>Discovery</i> had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was +evident that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions, +and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on +the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to take +full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the first +exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback, as it had +been confidently expected that there would be ample time to make +trial of various devices for sounding and dredging in the deep +sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact that no trials +could be made on the outward voyage was severely felt when the +Antarctic was reached. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On October 2 the <i>Discovery</i> arrived within 150 miles of the +Cape, and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's +Bay. The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons +with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to +be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at the +Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our own +observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time for +such repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances, +could alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne, +however, worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received +so much valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish +a maximum +<a name="page_33"><span class="page">Page 33</span></a> +amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.' In every +way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the Cape. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later +the <i>Discovery</i> once more put out to sea; and as time went on +those on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy +qualities. Towards the end of October there was a succession of +heavy following gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous +seas that followed in her wake, and, considering her size, she was +wonderfully free of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following +sea, however, she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and +rolls of more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape of +the stern, to which reference has been made, was now well tested. +It gave additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing the ship to +rise more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting effect was +also directed to throwing the ship off her course, and consequently +she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually became more +expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other officers were +on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was immediately swept by +a monstrous sea which made a clean breach over her. Instinctively +those on the bridge clutched the rails, and for several moments +they were completely submerged while the spray dashed as high as +the upper topsails. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On November 12 the <i>Discovery</i> was in lat. 51 S., long. 131 +E., and had arrived in such an extremely +<a name="page_34"><span class="page">Page 34</span></a> +interesting magnetic area that they steered to the south to explore +it. This new course took them far out of the track of ships and +towards the regions of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those +lonely waters when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking +and a voice shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give +any details of this alarming news the informant fled, and when +Scott appeared hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was +very dark and obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom +were as ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered +that the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily +extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these +days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of +fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too +serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth +the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this was +the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised in the +<i>Discovery</i>. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the following +morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic shape by the +action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with much excitement +and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs of a heavier pack +were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were all about the ship, +and she was pushing her way amongst them and receiving her baptism +of ice. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_35"><span class="page">Page 35</span></a> +This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded +how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings. +'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in a +ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and again +a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding of the +floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more subdued +hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for the first +time we felt something of the solemnity of these great Southern +solitudes.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Discovery</i> was now within 200 miles of Adélie +Land, and with steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But +delays had already been excessive, and they could not be added to +if New Zealand was to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's +head was again turned towards the North, and soon passed into looser +ice. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans +is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are these +roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but in the +majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for hours gather +close about her. The greater number are of the petrel tribe, and +vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their huge spread +of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson stormy petrel, +which flits under the foaming crests of the waves. For centuries +these birds have been the friends of sailors, and as Wilson was +able to distinguish and +<a name="page_36"><span class="page">Page 36</span></a> +name the various visitors to the <i>Discovery</i>, the interest +of the voyage was very greatly increased. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report of +the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island, +exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory +fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised so +much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the few +hours necessary for landing would be amply justified.... A landing +was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin rookeries which +had been observed from the ship were explored with much interest. +One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully marked King penguin, +while the other contained a smaller gold-crested broad-billed +species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned to the ship, and shortly +after we weighed anchor and proceeded. Including those collected +in the ice, we had no fewer than 50 birds of various sorts to be +skinned, and during the next few days several officers and men +were busily engaged in this work under the superintendence of Dr. +Wilson. The opportunity was taken of serving out the flesh of the +penguins for food. I had anticipated considerable prejudice on +the part of the men to this form of diet which it will so often +be essential to enforce, and was agreeably surprised to find that +they were by no means averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent, +and all seemed to appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste +for it. I found no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my own.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_37"><span class="page">Page 37</span></a> +Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to +Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was most +comically divided between a desire to run away from the penguins, +and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved him to be very +courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and last experience +of penguins, for it was felt that he would be unable to live in +the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was found for him in New +Zealand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Late on November 29 the <i>Discovery</i> arrived off Lyttelton +Heads, and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty +in the harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which was +shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of gratitude +can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in every possible +way, efficient and kindly assistance was given, and this was all +the more valuable because a lot of work had to be done before the +ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging had to be thoroughly +overhauled and refitted; the magneticians had to undertake the +comparison of their delicate instruments, and as this was the last +occasion on which it could be done special attention was necessary; +and a large quantity of stores had to be shipped, because some +of those in the <i>Discovery</i> had been damaged by the leaky +state of the ship. This leak had never been dangerous, but all the +same it had entailed many weary hours of pumping, and had caused +much waste of time and of provisions. Among the many skilled +<a name="page_38"><span class="page">Page 38</span></a> +workmen, whose united labour had produced the solid structure of +the <i>Discovery</i>'s hull, had been one who had shirked his task, +and although the ship was docked and most determined and persistent +efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded in avoiding detection. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a very +busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton arrived, +though not for the final departure from civilization, because a +short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the south to complete +the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, the ship lay alongside +the wharf ready for sea and very deeply laden. 'One could reflect +that it would have been impossible to have got more into her, and +that all we had got seemed necessary for the voyage, for the rest +we could only trust that Providence would vouch-safe to us fine +weather and an easy passage to the south.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm for +the expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of the +<i>Discovery</i>, while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with +passengers, and with bands playing and whistles hooting, also +accompanied her, until the open sea was reached and the <i>Discovery</i> +slowly steamed out between the war-ships that seemed to stand as +sentinels to the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands of +friends were hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy +happened. Among the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging to +wave their farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner, who, +<a name="page_39"><span class="page">Page 39</span></a> +more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the crow's-nest +to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the truck, he had +remained cheering, until in a moment of madness he raised himself +into a standing position, and almost directly afterwards he fell +and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday the ship arrived +at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with naval honours. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By noon on the following day the <i>Discovery</i> was clear of +the harbor bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail +towards the south. The last view of civilization, the last sight +of fields and flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and +Christmas Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern +Ocean, though after such a recent parting from so many kind friends +no one felt inclined for the customary festivities. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In good sea trim the <i>Discovery</i> had little to fear from the +worst gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had +she encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very +unpleasant. Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have been +lost; the masses of wood on the superstructure would have been in +great danger, while all the sheep and possibly many of the dogs +would have been drowned. Fine weather, however, continued, and on +January 3 Scott and his companions crossed the Antarctic Circle, +little thinking how long a time would elapse before they would +recross it. At length they had entered the Antarctic regions; before +them lay +<a name="page_40"><span class="page">Page 40</span></a> +the scene of their work, and all the trials of preparation, and +the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the fact that they had +reached their goal in time to make use of the best part of the +short open season in these icebound regions. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that +there were many large pools of open water. And then for several +days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high +praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect gem +in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem to give +quite the best combination possible for such a purpose. We have +certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we have come +through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with a gale of +wind behind him.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack, and +the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual +interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors was +the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage relieved +only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These little +birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern fulmar +and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that unwholesome +scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by; while the skua +gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally flapped past, on +his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge his hard-earned +dinner. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at +<a name="page_41"><span class="page">Page 41</span></a> +first afar and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity +drew them to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little +visitors would again and again leap into the water, and journey +from floe to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange +apparition could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in +imitating their calls, and could not only attract them from a long +distance, but would visibly add to their astonishment when they +approached. These were busy days for the penguins. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours +asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or white +seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there is found +the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins and even +on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious to observe +that both seals and penguins regard themselves as safe when out of +the water. In the sea they are running risks all the time, and in +that element Nature has made them swift to prey or to avoid being +preyed upon. But once on ice or land they have known no enemy, +and cannot therefore conceive one. The seal merely raises its head +when anyone approaches, and then with but little fear; whereas it +is often difficult to drive the penguin into the water, for he +is firmly convinced that the sea is the sole source of danger. +Several seals were killed for food, and from the first seal-meat +was found palatable, if not altogether the form of diet to recommend +to an epicure. The great drawback to the seal is that there is no +fat except blubber, +<a name="page_42"><span class="page">Page 42</span></a> +and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell. +At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste +and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked +with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this +smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver +and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen, and +soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft the glad +tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship entered +a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces, and after +pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached the hard +line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south nothing but +a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same evening the +joy of being again in the open sea was intensified by a shout of +'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly gathered +there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent. The +sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless sky, and +far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high mountain +peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was now directed for +Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing to the reappearance +of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was eventually steered into +the open water within the bay. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare, within +which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea, is a curious +triangular +<a name="page_43"><span class="page">Page 43</span></a> +spit, probably the morainic remains of the vaster ice conditions +of former ages. It was on this spit that the expedition sent forth +by Sir George Newnes and commanded by Borchgrevink spent their +winter in 1896, the first party to winter on the shores of the +Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided to land for a short time, +and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and Barne were at work among +the thousands of penguins that abounded, while the naturalists +wandered further afield in search of specimens. In the center of +Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members of Borchgrevink's +party was still found to be standing in very good condition, though +at the best of times deserted dwellings are far from cheerful to +contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member of this small party of +eight, and on the spot he recalled the past, and told of the unhappy +death of Hanson—one of his comrades. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's +grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder +containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were told +to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the following +year this cylinder was found by the <i>Morning</i>,[1] and so the +first information was given that the <i>Discovery</i> had succeeded +in reaching these southern regions. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: The relief ship.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the ship +again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape Adare +in the hope of finding +<a name="page_44"><span class="page">Page 44</span></a> +a clear channel near at hand. Very soon, however, the tidal stream +began to make from the south, and the whole aspect of the streams +of heavy pack-ice rapidly changed. Almost immediately the pack was +about the ship, and she was being rapidly borne along with it. +Across the entrance to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs, +and it was in this direction that she was being carried. For the +first time they faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its +mighty powers. Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around +them were heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and +turn as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in +front of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for +nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained +aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room, +as usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the +<i>Discovery</i> exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in +spite of these efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost +certain that she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was +one of those hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for +ever on the memory. Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, its +rays were reflected from a myriad points of tire glistening pack; +behind us lay the lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown sun-kissed +cliffs of the Cape, and the placid glassy waters of the bay; the air +about us was almost breathlessly still; crisp, clear and sun-lit, +it seemed an atmosphere in which all Nature should rejoice; +<a name="page_45"><span class="page">Page 45</span></a> +the silence was broken only by the deep panting of our engines +and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes; yet, beneath +all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us on to possible +destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that danger could exist +in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one paced to and fro on +the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted our bridge, it was +difficult to persuade oneself that we were so completely impotent.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually +on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour was +early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below, happily +oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the fact that +they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely made in the +<i>Discovery</i>, if it could by any conceivable means be avoided. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it came +so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened. Little +by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked floes fell +slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the ship began +to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For me,' Scott +adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no doubt, a salutary +one; we were here to fight the elements with their icy weapons, +and once and for all this taught me not to undervalue the enemy.' +During the forenoon the ship was within seven or eight miles of +the high bold coast-line to the south of Cape Adare, but later +she had to be turned outwards +<a name="page_46"><span class="page">Page 46</span></a> +so that the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could +be avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the +land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross +had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty to +talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to a brisk +S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being used. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that of +coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to use only +one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was saved but time +was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the <i>Discovery</i> +could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on the 12th she +scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had increased and +a heavy swell was coming up from the south. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs +of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as +they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines +were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from the +cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their sledge +journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as regards +distance, and what very false appearances distant objects could +assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that Polar +explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the evidence +of their own eyes, and it also explains the errors which the +<i>Discovery</i> expedition found to +<a name="page_47"><span class="page">Page 47</span></a> +have been made by former explorers, and which they knew must have +been made in all good faith. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of +Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to such +a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs with +such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to keep her +in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon the wind +force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued to lose ground +they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the spray over them +in showers, to freeze as it fell. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg they +were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of another. As +they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear of its pinnacled +sides, and they took the shock broad on their bows. It sent the +ship reeling round, but luckily on the right tack to avoid further +complications. The following night was dismal enough; again and +again small bergs appeared through the blinding spray and drift, and +only with great difficulty could the unmanageable ship be brought +to clear them. Even gales, however, must have an end, and towards +morning the wind moderated, and once more they were able to steam +up close to the island. And there, between two tongues of ice off +Cape Wadworth, they landed on the steep rocks and erected a staff +bearing a tin cylinder with a further record of the voyage. By +the time this had been done the wind had fallen completely, and in +<a name="page_48"><span class="page">Page 48</span></a> +the evening the ship entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and +the barrier-ice, and later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet +in the barrier-ice itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered +spot, and night, as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was +turned into day so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed +a terrible desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot +only to murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow +with blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity, +for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals would +be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and undoubtedly +the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being +obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out to +sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told that +the work was completed, but that some five hours before Wilson, +Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and that no one +had thought of picking them up. Although the sun had been shining +brightly all night, the temperature had been down to 18°, and +afar off Scott could see four disconsolate figures tramping about, +and trying to keep themselves warm on a detached floe not more +than fifteen yards across. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very +evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been warmed +by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences. They +<a name="page_49"><span class="page">Page 49</span></a> +had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when they +thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that they +had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they were +dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson, who +did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing fire +with a small pocket magnifying glass—a performance which +testified not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power of +the sun in these latitudes. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from +the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in +the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A +way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison, +among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen; across +the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald, while +to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform outline +of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost perfect +volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no competing +height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the most magnificent +landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold, sharp headland, +projects from the foot of the mountain on its eastern side, and +finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott decided to turn to the +south to pass around this cape. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting, +since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically +unknown. Pack-ice was +<a name="page_50"><span class="page">Page 50</span></a> +still a formidable obstacle, but on the 20th the <i>Discovery</i> +pushed her way into an inlet where she met ice which had been formed +inside and but recently broken up. The ice was perfectly smooth, and +as it showed absolutely no sign of pressure there was no doubting +that this inlet would make a secure wintering harbor. Already a +latitude had been reached in which it was most desirable to find +safe winter quarters for the ship. In England many people had thought +that Wood Bay would be the most southerly spot where security was +likely to be found, but Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to +the south of that place to realize the impossibility of traveling +along it in sledges, and to convince him that if any advance to +the south was to be made, a harbor in some higher latitude must +be found. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and +secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his thankfulness +that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded as we should +have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have obtained only the +most local records of climatic conditions, and our meteorological +observations would have been comparatively valueless; but the greatest +drawback would have been that we should be completely cut off from +traveling over the sea-ice beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It +is when one remembers how naturally a decision to return to this +place might have been made, that one sees how easily the results +of the expedition might have been missed.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_51"><span class="page">Page 51</span></a> +It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default +of a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so +with Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle +with the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo +Sound, and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared +from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now +within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their +winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they +returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought +we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal +in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before +us lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay +beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_52"><span class="page">Page 52</span></a> +CHAPTER III +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Beholde I see the haven near at hand<br /> +To which I mean my wearie course to bend;<br /> +Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land<br /> +To which afore is fairly to be ken'd.<br /> + —SPENSER, Faerie Queene. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had +already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A +coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance, +and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard to +its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of mountains; +and the positions and forms of individual heights, with the curious +ice formations and the general line of the coast, had been observed. +In short the map of the Antarctic had already received valuable +additions, and whatever was to happen in the future that, at any +rate, was all to the good. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the +westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post +and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so +that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing had +<a name="page_53"><span class="page">Page 53</span></a> +been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the center +of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the sea, and +here the post was set up and anchored with numerous boulders. In +spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few hundred yards it +was almost impossible to distinguish it; but although this small +post on the side of a vast mountain looked a hopeless clue, it +eventually brought the <i>Morning</i> into McMurdo Sound. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and +began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set off +in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and Wilson +scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of the highest +of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded by a first view +of the Great Ice Barrier.[1] +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of +still greater length.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before us in +the south we were most keenly interested in solving the mysteries +of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been discussed +and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on the slender +foundation of fact which alone the meager information concerning it +could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary ice-formation +was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight and the very +vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to our sense of +its mystery.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the +<a name="page_54"><span class="page">Page 54</span></a> +ice-face of the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed +it was arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the +ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe +and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four +hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this +manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit of +the barrier was made. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they were +far more eager to gain new information than to prove that old +information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began to arise +against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described as 'probably +higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was known with absolute +certainty that these mountains did not exist. This error on the part +of such a trustworthy and cautious observer, Scott ascribes to +the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the height of the barrier, +was led to suppose that anything seen over it at a distance must +be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds, 'whatever the cause, the +facts show again how deceptive appearances may be and how easily +errors may arise. In fact, as I have said before, one cannot always +afford to trust the evidence of one's own eyes.' Though the ship +was steaming along this ice-wall for several days, the passage was +not in the least monotonous, because new variations were continually +showing themselves, and all of them had to be carefully observed and +recorded. This work continued for several days until, on January +29, they arrived at a particularly interesting place, to +<a name="page_55"><span class="page">Page 55</span></a> +the southward and eastward of the extreme position reached by Ross +in 1842. From that position he had reported a strong appearance +of land to the southeast, and consequently all eyes were directed +over the icy cliffs in that direction. But although the afternoon +was bright and clear, nothing from below or from aloft could be +seen, and the only conclusion to be made was that the report was +based on yet another optical illusion. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report that +Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations, there was +on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense of impending +change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening, and we could not +fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had not so far encountered +the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported in this region, and that +consequently we were now sailing in an open sea into an unknown +world.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came at +8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and becoming +more and more irregular continued in that direction for about five +miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into the deep bay +thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached they saw at +once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot descended +to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the water, and behind +it the snow surface rose in long undulating slopes to rounded ridges, +the heights of which could only be guessed. Whatever doubt remained +in their minds that this was snow-covered land, a sounding of 100 +fathoms quickly removed it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_56"><span class="page">Page 56</span></a> +But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there +was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy +outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce +optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe, +a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what +lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the +fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen, +and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal that +two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken +for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till +someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all +glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous, +until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more definite +shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at real live +rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered land.... It is +curious to reflect now on the steps which led us to the discovery +of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence which came to us +before the actual land itself was seen: at first there had been +the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently rising snow-slopes, +of which, in the nature of things, one is obliged to retain a doubt; +then the steeper broken slopes of snow, giving a contrast to convey +a surer evidence to the eye; and, finally the indubitable land +itself, but even then surrounded with such mystery as to leave us +far from complete satisfaction with our discovery.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_57"><span class="page">Page 57</span></a> +The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost +irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them, +Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back +along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than +on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed on +the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon ascent +were made. 'The honour,' Scott says, 'of being the first aeronaut to +make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps somewhat selfishly, +I chose for myself, and I may further confess that in so doing +I was contemplating the first ascent I had made in any region, +and as I swayed about in what appeared a very inadequate basket +and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures below, I felt +some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut, +it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the barrier +surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he discovered +that instead of the continuous level plain that he had expected, +it continued in a series of long undulations running approximately +east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface. Later on, however, +when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage returned, they reported +that these undulations were not gradual as had been supposed from +the balloon, but that the crest of each wave was flattened into a +long plateau, from which the descent into the succeeding valley +was comparatively sharp. On the evening of the 4th they put out +<a name="page_58"><span class="page">Page 58</span></a> +to sea again, and on the 8th they were once more in McMurdo Sound, +with high hopes that they would soon find a sheltered nook in which +the <i>Discovery</i> could winter safely, and from which the +sledge-parties could set forth upon the task of exploring the vast +new world around them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate surroundings, +and found a little bay which promised so well for the winter that +Scott's determination to remain in this region was at once strengthened. +The situation, however, was surrounded with difficulties, for although +the ice had broken far afield it refused to move out of the small +bay on which they had looked with such eager eyes; consequently +they were forced to cling to the outskirts of the bay with their +ice-anchors, in depths that were too great to allow the large anchors +to be dropped to the bottom. The weather also was troublesome, +for after the ship had lain quietly during several hours a sudden +squall would fling her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting +the ice-anchors, would ultimately send her adrift. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position, +steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted +mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in pieces. +The original intention had been that the <i>Discovery</i> should +not winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and +turn northward before the season closed, and for this party a large +hut had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to +keep the +<a name="page_59"><span class="page">Page 59</span></a> +ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be +made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since +until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her off +her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking winter +quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly convinced that +the season was closing in. 'With no experience to guide us, our +opinion could only be based on the very severe and unseasonable +conditions which we had met with to the east. But now to our +astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy freezing of the bay; +the summer seemed to have taken a new lease, and for several weeks +the fast sea-ice continued to break silently and to pass quietly +away to the north in large floes.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which +had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together. +The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was +so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot of +persuasion before the joints would fit. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all the +dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below the +huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be done, +and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The hut-building +is slow work, and much of our time has been taken in securing the +ship.... Names have been given to the various landmarks in our +vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be called "Cape Armitage," +after our excellent navigator. The sharp hill above it +<a name="page_60"><span class="page">Page 60</span></a> +is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the "Gap," through which +we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively low level. North +of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher volcanic peak +beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet in height. Our +protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with "Arrival Bay" on +the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south; above "Arrival +Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue with breaks for +about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond which rises the most +conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a high, precipitous-sided +rock with a flat top, which has been dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is +1,350 feet in height. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible +to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton +is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the +men run him close.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went out, +and on their return three days later they were so excited by their +experiences that some time passed before they could answer the +questions put to them. Although the temperature had not been severe +they had nearly got into serious trouble by continuing their march +in a snowstorm, and when they did stop to camp they were so exhausted +that frost-bites were innumerable. The tent had been difficult to +get up, and all sorts of trouble with the novel cooking apparatus +had followed. 'It is strange now,' Scott wrote three years later, +'to look back on +<a name="page_61"><span class="page">Page 61</span></a> +these first essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered +we were by want of experience.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as a +quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal, had been +landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and arrangements for +the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself, were pushed forward. +The object of this journey was to try and reach the record at Cape +Crozier over the barrier, and to leave a fresh communication there +with details of the winter quarters. On the following day, however, +Scott damaged his right knee while skiing, and had to give up all +idea of going to Cape Crozier. 'I already foresaw how much there +was to be learnt if we were to do good sledding work in the spring, +and to miss such an opportunity of gaining experience was terribly +trying; however, there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded +limb and to determine that never again would I be so rash as to +run hard snow-slopes on ski.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed. The +party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton and +Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each pulling +a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again the want +of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the lack of system +was apparent. Though each requirement might have been remembered, all +were packed in a confused mass, and, to use a sailor's expression, +'everything was on top and nothing handy.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_62"><span class="page">Page 62</span></a> +Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On looking +back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so cheaply, +for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as well as of +discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our first sledge +parties left the ship.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The days following the departure of the sledge party were exceptionally +fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board the ship woke to +find the wind blowing from the east; and in the afternoon the wind +increased, and the air was filled with thick driving snow. This +Tuesday was destined to be one of the blackest days spent by the +expedition in the Antarctic, but no suspicion that anything untoward +had happened to the sledge party arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there +was a report that four men were walking towards the ship. Then the +sense of trouble was immediate, and the first disjointed sentences +of the newcomers were enough to prove that disasters had occurred. +The men, as they emerged from their thick clothing, were seen to +be Wild, Weller, Heald and Plumley, but until Scott had called +Wild, who was the most composed of the party, aside, he could not +get any idea of what had actually happened, and even Wild was too +exhausted, and excited to give anything but a meager account. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine, In +charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day had reached +the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock. In addition, Wild +told him, to the four who had returned, the party had +<a name="page_63"><span class="page">Page 63</span></a> +consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince. They had thought +that they were quite close to the ship, and when the blizzard began +they had left their tents and walked towards her supposed position. +Then they found themselves on a steep slope and tried to keep close +together, but it was impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare +had disappeared, and a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and +Quartley had left them to try to find out what had become of Evans, +and neither of them had come back, though they waited. Afterwards +they had gone on, and had suddenly found themselves at the edge +of a precipice with the sea below; Vince had shot past over the +edge. Wild feared all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had +gone. Could he guide a search party to the scene of the accident? +He thought he could—at any rate he would like to try. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The information was little enough but it was something on which +to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought +until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before 9 +P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party, and +Armitage took charge of it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was +known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced. +On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow, +and after three days of excessive labour Royds had decided that +the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but +unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski +<a name="page_64"><span class="page">Page 64</span></a> +with the party, and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with +Koettlitz and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge +of Barne. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning +party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were +abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the +top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when +a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch +little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour +after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they expected +each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents bodily away, +and meanwhile the chill air crept through their leather boots and +ill-considered clothing, and continually some frost-bitten limb +had to be nursed back to life.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits, +but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything +into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make +for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the +men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as +it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance +than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they +had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who +<a name="page_65"><span class="page">Page 65</span></a> +had been at the rear of the party, was reported to be missing, +and soon afterwards Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth +ice, fell, and shot out of sight immediately.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were, +sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track. In +a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a pace +that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush he had +time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then his flight was +arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within a few feet of him. +They had scarcely exchanged greetings when the figure of Quartley +came hurtling down upon them from the gloom, for he had started on +the same track, and had been swept down in the same breathless +and alarming manner. To return by the way they had come down was +impossible, and so they decided to descend, but within four paces +of the spot at which they had been brought to rest, they found +that the slope ended suddenly in a steep precipice, beyond which +nothing but clouds of snow could be seen. For some time after this +they sat huddled together, forlornly hoping that the blinding drift +would cease, but at last they felt that whatever happened they +must keep on the move, and groping their way to the right they +realized that the sea was at their feet, and that they had been +saved from it by a patch of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff. +Presently a short break in the storm enabled them to see Castle +Rock above their heads, and slowly making their way +<a name="page_66"><span class="page">Page 66</span></a> +up the incline, they sought the shelter of a huge boulder; and there, +crouched together, they remained for several hours. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the +head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls +of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they felt +that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain where +they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the leading +spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained submitted +themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him in single file +as he again struck out in the direction in which they supposed the +ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for about 500 yards, +until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath his feet, and far +below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. He sprang back with +a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince had flashed past and +disappeared. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at all +costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just come. All +of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror, and wondered +how it had ever been made. They could only hold themselves by the +soles of their boots, and to slip to their knees meant inevitably +to slide backwards towards the certain fate below. Literally their +lives depended on each foothold. Wild alone had a few light nails +in his boots, and to his great credit he used this advantage to +give a helping hand in turn to each +<a name="page_67"><span class="page">Page 67</span></a> +of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they did reach +the top of the slope their troubles were not finished, for they +were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild, however, +again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that the party +eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of snow. 'It +is little wonder that after such an experience they should have +been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search party +on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully conscious +of his inability to help on account of his injured leg, admits that +he could not think of any further means to render assistance, but +he says, 'as was always my experience in the <i>Discovery</i>, my +companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon the shrill screams +of the siren were echoing among the hills, and in ten minutes after +the suggestion had been made, a whaler was swinging alongside ready +to search the cliffs on the chance of finding Vince. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there +was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow, and +fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without, +and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost—Barne, Evans +and Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having +done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search +was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of seeing +<a name="page_68"><span class="page">Page 68</span></a> +Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be realized +that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was also no +disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might have happened. +Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party were alive to +tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley heard the +faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its welcome sound +made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge party would +in all probability not have found them. All three of them were +badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was in such a serious +condition that for many days it was thought that his fingers would +have to be amputated. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March 13 +Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has happened. +At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. At first we +thought it must be some one who had been for an early walk; but +it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly, and, +immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were seen +streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized the figure +as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was on board.... We +soon discovered that though exhausted, weak, and hungry, he was in +full possession of his faculties and quite free from frost-bites. +He went placidly off to sleep whilst objecting to the inadequacy +of a milk diet.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained +that he had left his companions +<a name="page_69"><span class="page">Page 69</span></a> +to return to the sledges and get some leather boots, and had imagined +that the others understood what he intended to do. Soon after he had +started back he was wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that +he was walking aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered +was making for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and +there he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though +he required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of +this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on +raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks, +and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards +her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged to +travel upon his hands and knees. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally +and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate, +and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing +to him, and it is something to think that death must have come +quickly in the grip of that icy sea.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the +three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when, +on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The +others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them were +soon safely on board. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to +reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until +it was evident that a better +<a name="page_70"><span class="page">Page 70</span></a> +equipped party with more favorable weather would easily get to +it. On comparing notes with his party, Scott recognized what a +difference there might be in the weather conditions of places within +easy reach of the ship, and not only in temperature but also in +the force and direction of the wind. It had not occurred to anyone +that within such a short distance of the ship any large difference +of temperature was probable, and as the summer was barely over, +Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton had only taken a light wolf-skin fur +suit for night-wear. This, however, had proved totally inadequate +when the thermometer fell to -42°, and on the night of the +16th uncontrollable paroxysms of shivering had prevented them from +getting any sleep. The value of proper clothing and the wisdom of +being prepared for the unexpected rigors of such a fickle climate, +were two of the lessons learnt from the experiences of the Cape +Crozier party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether +the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such an +advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected state of +affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of their position +was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since necessitated the +extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a heavy gale drove the +ship from her shelter, steam could only be raised with difficulty +and after the lapse of many hours. There was, too, the possibility +that the ship, if once driven off, would not be able to return, +and so it was obviously unsafe +<a name="page_71"><span class="page">Page 71</span></a> +to send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift +most of them would be needed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet +of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological +screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific +work which was such an important object of the expedition. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort before +the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a depôt +of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring, but 'a +more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had not been +away already a practical insight into the difficulties of sledge +traveling. But as this party would have to include the majority of +those on board, he was forced to wait until the ship was firmly +fixed, and it may be said that the <i>Discovery</i> was as reluctant +to freeze-in as she was difficult to get out when once the process +had been completed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The +sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice should +become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have completed +the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am pleased with +their appearance; the packing is not neat enough, and we haven't +got anything like a system.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each +with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads +were arranged on the theory +<a name="page_72"><span class="page">Page 72</span></a> +of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs. to each dog, but they very +quickly discovered that the dogs were not going to have anything +to do with such a theory as this. The best of them would only pull +about 50 lbs., and some of the others had practically to be pulled. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and +dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner +of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement +caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another +reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing +their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly +cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great +deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or +two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to +realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats +grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled +down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally +thick woolly covering. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men +had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had +no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however, +was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the +ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or +another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing +to show for our labours. The errors were patent; food, clothing, +everything was +<a name="page_73"><span class="page">Page 73</span></a> +wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that there would +have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring, and it +was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which this +might be effected.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone +resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the experience +that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys subsequently +made in the spring were largely due to the failures of the autumn. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_74"><span class="page">Page 74</span></a> +CHAPTER IV +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE POLAR WINTER</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +The cold ice slept below,<br /> +Above the cold sky shone,<br /> + And all around<br /> + With a chilling sound<br /> +From caves of ice and fields of snow<br /> +The breath of night like death did flow<br /> + Beneath the sinking moon.—SHELLEY. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time +could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by +the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before +the daylight vanished. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological +screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds. +The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100 +yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which, +with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of +her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations +was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition, +and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded +every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm +<a name="page_75"><span class="page">Page 75</span></a> +some member of the community had to be on the alert, and every +other hour to make the rounds of the various instruments. On a +fine night this was no great hardship, but in stormy weather the +task was not coveted by anyone. On such occasions it was necessary +to be prepared to resist the wind and snowdrift, and the round +itself was often full of exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials +and tribulations of the meteorological observers were numerous, +and it was arranged that throughout the winter each officer should +take it in turn to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6 +A.M. Wilson nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation, +but the lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides +taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first +winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations +between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's +special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying +to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general +reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain +small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely be +answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth is +a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why it is +a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and obviously +the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a phenomenon is to +study it. For many reasons the <i>Discovery</i>'s winter station in the +<a name="page_76"><span class="page">Page 76</span></a> +Antarctic was an especially suitable place in which to record the +phenomenon of magnetism. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations +had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during +the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little +company had settled down to a regular round of daily life. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for +the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after; +during these hours all without exception are busily employed except +for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would be difficult +to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the palm would be +given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough sketch made +since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and detailed form, +until we now possess a splendid pictorial representation of the +whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At home many no doubt will +remember the horrible depression of spirit that has sometimes been +pictured as a pendant to the long polar night. We cannot even claim +to be martyrs in this respect; with plenty of work the days pass +placidly and cheerfully.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of +the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were +to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched +from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration for +the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is a +thing assured. Our little society in the +<a name="page_77"><span class="page">Page 77</span></a> +wardroom is governed by a spirit of good fellowship and patience +which is all that the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly +glad to be one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The +absence of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout +is beyond even my best expectation.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable +feature of life during the time spent in the <i>Discovery</i>, and +the only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We +shipped him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained +cook became too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly +for the worse; I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is +even worse, he is dirty—an unforgivable crime in a cook.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have +been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather +was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North +Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in +the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm +days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little +reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all of +whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts, +and to make the best of a long job. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each +day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's work +ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,' the +officers doing +<a name="page_78"><span class="page">Page 78</span></a> +their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon the living-spaces +were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were searched, and while +the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became a 'snipe marsh.' +At this time the holds also were cleared up, the bilges pumped +out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh layer of clean +snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled by the traffic +of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands followed, and +after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the time-honoured one +of 'Sweethearts and Wives.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer or +a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be different +from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30 the decks +had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and the first +lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble imitation of +the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection followed, and +Scott had the greatest faith in this system of routine, not only +because it had a most excellent effect on the general discipline and +cleanliness of the ship, but also because it gave an opportunity +to raise and discuss each new arrangement that was made to increase +the comfort of all on board. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was prepared +for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all placed +according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read the service, +Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_79"><span class="page">Page 79</span></a> +Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the +feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus +sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should last +us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of the +sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that +we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites +on Sunday.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the mess-deck +was decorated with designs in coloured papers and festooned with +chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes there was +a great contest to have the best decorations, and some astonishing +results were achieved with little more than brightly coloured papers, +a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each table stood a grotesque +figure or fanciful erection of ice, which was cunningly lighted up +by candles from within and sent out shafts of sparkling light. +'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the light-hearted scenes of to-day +can end the first period of our captivity, what room for doubt +is there that we shall triumphantly weather the whole term with +the same general happiness and contentment?' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the winter months the <i>South Polar Times</i>, edited by +Shackleton, appeared regularly, and was read with interest and +amusement by everyone. At first it had been decided that each number +should contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the events and +meteorological conditions of the past month, some scientifically +instructive articles dealing with the work +<a name="page_80"><span class="page">Page 80</span></a> +and surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the +scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures +and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in +connection with the <i>Times</i> was that the men contributed as +well as the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most +amusing, articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck. +But beyond all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson, +who produced drawings that deserved—and ultimately +obtained—a far wider appreciation than could be given to +them in the Antarctic. So great was the desire to contribute to +the first number of the <i>S. P. T.</i> that the editor's box was +crammed with manuscripts by the time the date for sending in +contributions had arrived. From these there was no difficulty in +making a selection, but as there was also some danger of hurting +the feelings of those whose contributions had been rejected, a +supplementary journal named <i>The Blizzard</i> was produced. This +publication, however, had but a brief career, for in spite of some +good caricatures and a very humorous frontispiece by Barne, it +was so inferior to the <i>S. P. T.</i> that even its contributors +realized that their mission in life did not lie in the paths of +literary composition. <i>The Blizzard</i>, in short, served its +purpose, and then ceased to exist. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable during +the dark months, the question of artificial light was as difficult +as it was important. Paraffin had from the first been suggested +as the most +<a name="page_81"><span class="page">Page 81</span></a> +suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage being that it is not +a desirable oil to carry in quantities in a ship. 'Our luckiest +find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right sort of lamp in which to +burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic explorer, Captain Egerton, +presented me with a patent lamp in which the draught is produced +by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism, and no chimney is needed. +One can imagine the great mortality there would be in chimneys +if we were obliged to employ them, so that when, on trial, this +lamp was found to give an excellent light, others of the same sort +were purchased, and we now use them exclusively in all parts of +the ship with extremely satisfactory results.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their reach +in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain that +they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic, did +their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been provided +for the hut, and which they had not previously thought of using. +'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was relieved by +a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue their occupations +by the single burner placed in each compartment. I lay great stress +on this, because I am confident that this is in every way the best +illuminant that can be taken for a Polar winter, and no future +expedition should fail to supply themselves with it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to +be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave +in his diary a full and +<a name="page_82"><span class="page">Page 82</span></a> +graphic account of the way he occupied himself during his 'night +on.' 'Each of us has his own way of passing the long, silent hours. +My own custom is to devote some of it to laundry-work, and I must +confess I make a very poor fist of it. However, with a bath full +of hot water, I commence pretty regularly after the ten o'clock +observation, and labour away until my back aches. There is little +difficulty with the handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles, +but when it comes to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready +to own my incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing +at the same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff +which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is +never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is, +and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring +everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no light +task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to the other; +then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring until I can wring +no more; but even so, after it has been hung for a few minutes +on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin to drip merrily on +the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh. I shall always have +a high respect for laundry-work in future, but I do not think it +can often have to cope with such thick garments as we wear. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations. +The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which are +scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with tea or +cocoa and a spirit-lamp. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_83"><span class="page">Page 83</span></a> +Everyone has his own ideas as to how sardines should be prepared... +and I scarcely like to record that there is a small company of +<i>gourmets</i>, who actually wake one another up in order that +the night-watchman may present his fellow epicures with a small +finger of buttered toast, on which are poised two sardines "done +to a turn." The awakened sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts +his satisfaction, and goes placidly off into dreamland again. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I find that after my labours at the wash-tub and the pleasing supper +that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair without +fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the ever-soothing pipe +and one's latest demand on the library book-shelves, one settles +down in great peace and contentment whilst keeping an eye on the +flying hours, ready to sally forth into the outer darkness at the +appointed time. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely +dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure, +but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship, +the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties, and +to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with his +inclination. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced +to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on +the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious +that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to +stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature.... +<a name="page_84"><span class="page">Page 84</span></a> +These and many other difficulties in taking observations which may +be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I think +we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole whose value +must stand or fall by attention to detail.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in a +mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted +out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in a +line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice. The +earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus for +the next two months they remained in sight. But then another gale +brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it in the +neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found to be +buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no feelings +of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott ordered the +snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until the first +boat had been reached was the true state of affairs revealed. She +was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which she was nearly +filled, and though for a moment there was a wild hope that she +could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the air temperature +promptly converted the slush into hardened ice, and so she was +stuck fast. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats, because +as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water would +have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to worse +before the summer brought hope with it, parties were +<a name="page_85"><span class="page">Page 85</span></a> +engaged day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in +the course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger +was that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats +so far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and +after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all +appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however, +of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the ship, +and also the feeling that so much labour must tell in the end, spurred +on the diggers to renewed vigour, but it was not until December +that the boats were finally liberated. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible for +an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again emphasized the +bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the smaller compartment +of the main hut completing a set of pendulum observations, while +Royds was in the larger compartment—the hut was used for +many and various purposes—rehearsing his nigger minstrel +troupe. Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific work did +not go hand in hand, or because their work was finished, Bernacchi +and Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the hut to return +to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards Royds and his +troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back, and found that +the gale had increased and that the whirling snow prevented them +from seeing anything. Being, however, in such numbers, they were +able to join hands and sweep along until they caught the guide-rope +leading to the gangway; +<a name="page_86"><span class="page">Page 86</span></a> +and then as they traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and +again extending their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton, +who, having entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting +on the chance of being heard and rescued. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter was not +only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by guide-ropes and +other means of direction, which if encountered would have informed +the wanderers of their position. Additionally Bernacchi and Skelton +could be trusted to take the most practical course in any difficulty, +and so it seems the more incredible that they could actually have +been lost for two hours. Both of them were severely frostbitten +about the face and legs, but bitter as their experience was it +served as yet another warning to those who were to go sledding +in the spring that no risks could be taken in such a capricious +climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing his troupe on this occasion +the results to Bernacchi and Skelton must have been more disastrous +than they were; consequently the idea of using the large hut as +a place of entertainment was fortunate in more ways than one. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the first week of May a concert had been given in the hut, +but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment; for Royds, +who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had arranged +a long program with the object of bringing to light any possible +talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical had to +confess that most of the performers would have +<a name="page_87"><span class="page">Page 87</span></a> +been less out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability, +however, was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing +a play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy, +was produced on June 25. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy +in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for +one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been so +gorgeously entertained.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe, and +when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30 on August +6, the temperature outside them was -40°, while inside it was +well below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder that +the audience was glad when the curtain went up. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'There is no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance, +'that sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had +taken an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and +"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable +top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling a +string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs led +by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the very +great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards +to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days +passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return. +But on that +<a name="page_88"><span class="page">Page 88</span></a> +day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded by whirling +snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed by a wild +burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone on board in +such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be far over the +hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be seen. The following +day, however, was an ideal one for the first view of the long-absent +sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater Hill to watch and welcome. +'Over all the magnificent view the sunlight spreads with gorgeous +effect after its long absence; a soft pink envelops the western +ranges, a brilliant red gold covers the northern sky; to the north +also each crystal of snow sparkles with reflected light. The sky +shows every gradation of light and shade; little flakes of golden +sunlit cloud float against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover +in the middle heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus +shades to grey on its unlit sides.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut Point, +to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no enthusiasm. +Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual in keeping its +appointment, but after all they had seen the sun a good many times +before, and in the next few months they would in all probability +see it a good many times again, and there was no sense in getting +excited about it. Some of them did set off at a run for the point, +while others, since it seemed the right thing to do, followed at +a walk, but a good +<a name="page_89"><span class="page">Page 89</span></a> +number remained on board and had their dinner. On August 25 the +Feast of the Sun was duly celebrated, and the days that followed +were fuller than ever with preparations for the spring journeys. The +only sewing-machine clattered away all day long, and the whole company +plied their needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed +taskmasters. The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the +best of spirits, was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge +journeys, and making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind +and the weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was +taken to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others, +and especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons +the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been +immense. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding +expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single +sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made +in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were +not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory +could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of +time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but +fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway. +In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there +received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was +not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in +<a name="page_90"><span class="page">Page 90</span></a> +command of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could +rely to provide the sledding outfit. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In making these preparations for long journeys in the south, there +was no previous experience to go upon except that which had been +gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume that southern +conditions would be more or less similar to those of the north, +and in so far as they proved different the sledding outfit ran +the risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in many respects +the sledding conditions of the south were different from those of +the north, and so it is only fair to consider the sledge journeys +taken by the <i>Discovery</i> expedition as pioneer efforts. These +differences are both climatic and geographical. For instance, the +conditions in the south are more severe than those in the north, both +in the lowness of the temperatures and in the distressing frequency +of blizzards and strong winds. And the geographical difference +between the work of the northern and the southern sledge-traveler +is as great as the climatic, if not greater, for the main part of +northern traveling has been and will be done on sea-ice, while +the larger part of southern traveling has been and will be done +over land surfaces, or what in this respect are their equivalents. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig005.jpg" width="787" height="497" alt="Figure 5"> +<br />LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPÔT. +<br /><i>Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge +over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate +maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice, +that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers +<a name="page_91"><span class="page">Page 91</span></a> +must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later +on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over +the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that—given +the surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge +parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by +the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for +the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions, +and while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely +to meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records +is not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the +same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled +are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and +of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The main differences between the sledges used by the <i>Discovery</i> +expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in +breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from +the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's sledges +were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners themselves +were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track from side to +side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths varied from +12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved to be by far +the most convenient—a length of 12 feet seeming to pass just +beyond the limit of handiness. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of sledge, +it will be seen that it differed +<a name="page_92"><span class="page">Page 92</span></a> +considerably from the old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and +3 feet broad. The weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything +between 40 and 47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full +strength of the structure was required. Generally speaking, the +full load that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most +important part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must +be perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily; +but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood runner +would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow. 'Some of +our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000 miles, +and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In point of numbers the <i>Discovery</i>'s crew was far behind +the old Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott +decide, in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would +do most of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest +workable units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties of at +least eight, who, having a common tent and cooking arrangements, +could not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not necessarily to limit +the number of men in his parties, but to divide them into units +of three, which should be self-contained, so that whenever it was +advisable a unit could be detached from the main party. Under such +a system it is obvious that each unit must have its own tent, +sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and therein lay a disadvantage, +as economy of material and weight can +<a name="page_93"><span class="page">Page 93</span></a> +be better carried out with a large unit than with a small one. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two headings: +the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the trip, and the +consumable, including food, oil, &c. The following is a list +of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to the west, +and it will give some idea of the variety of articles, exclusive +of provisions. The party numbered six. +</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"> + <tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td class="right">lbs.</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Sledges with fittings complete</td> + <td class="right">130</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Trace</td> + <td class="right">5</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Cookers, pannikins and spoons</td> + <td class="right">30</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Primus lamps, filled</td> + <td class="right">10</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Tents complete</td> + <td class="right">60</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Spades</td> + <td class="right">9</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td> + <td>Sleeping-bags with night-gear</td> + <td class="right">100</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko[1]</td> + <td class="right">50</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Medical bag</td> + <td class="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td>3</td> + <td>Ice-axes</td> + <td class="right">8</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Bamboos and marks</td> + <td class="right">11.5</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Instruments and camera</td> + <td class="right">50</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Alpine rope</td> + <td class="right">9</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape, sledge brakes</td> + <td class="right">15</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Ski boots for party</td> + <td class="right">15</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Ski for party</td> + <td class="right">60</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + <tr><td> </td><td>Total</td> + <td class="right">568.5</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Reindeer-fur boots.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_94"><span class="page">Page 94</span></a> +Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his load +was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total carrying +capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could be devoted +to provisions. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks' food +for a party of six, but as such a short period is often not long +enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled to organize +means by which their journey can be prolonged. This can be done +in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the season and lay +a depôt at a considerable distance towards their goal, or +they may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting party, +which accompanies them for a certain distance on the road and helps +their advance party to drag a heavier load than they can accomplish +alone. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important +journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship +for long periods and to travel long distances. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_95"><span class="page">Page 95</span></a> +CHAPTER V +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit<br> +To its full height... +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="bquote"> + ...Shew us here<br /> +That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not.<br /> +For there is none so mean or base<br /> +That have not noble lustre in your eyes.<br /> +I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,<br /> +Straining upon the start.<br /> + —SHAKESPEARE. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been +turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times the +advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed. +This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which +Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the end +of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was always +repugnant to his nature. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not +greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that +they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death, is +equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be justified +by the gain, and I think that logically it may be; +<a name="page_96"><span class="page">Page 96</span></a> +but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob +sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever +made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception +which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships, +dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and by +days and weeks of hard physical labour succeed in solving some +problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest is +more nobly and splendidly won.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of dogs +had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained for the +southern journey, all but one—and he was killed at an earlier +period—left their bones on the great southern plains. This +briefly is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances under +which they met their deaths will be mentioned later on. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig006.jpg" width="817" height="521" alt="Figure 6"> +<br />SLEDDING. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make a +short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers +and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of harness, +and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large or small +teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted from September +2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently with four dogs +harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if the first team +got away all right, the others were often keen to play the game +of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was a positive +spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two +<a name="page_97"><span class="page">Page 97</span></a> +competing teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural +result that when they were near enough to see what was happening, +they decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a +free fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with +a mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and +teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even +in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results +showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties, +and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which +the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing +and which the lazy ones. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west +with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott +wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a glance +the vast improvement that has been made since last year. The sledges +were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think of the slovenly +manner in which we conducted things last autumn; at any rate here +is a first result of the care and attention of the winter.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following +day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the +dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start +on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the morning of that day he and his two companions, +<a name="page_98"><span class="page">Page 98</span></a> +Barne and Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams, +left the ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped +for lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer +was down to -43°. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together +with a quantity of stores to form a depôt, the whole giving +a load of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined +to be only a short and bitter experience. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were +so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting +of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he +found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of my +sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed forth +on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent or my +companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it could +mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly awoke +me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in some +extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding +snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping +across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to the +tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and the +tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its securing, +that something had to be done at once to prevent it from blowing +away altogether. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_99"><span class="page">Page 99</span></a> +So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually +pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it, +they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while +they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An +attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible, +while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would +hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then they +were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once more over +the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly hanging on +and warning each other of frostbitten features, their sleeping-bags +became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were lying in masses +of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by ceaseless exertions +so far become masters of the situation, that there was no further +need for the tent to be held with anything except the weight of +their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of hands showed a number +of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had not recovered from +the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To have hung on to the +tent through all those hours must have been positive agony to him, +yet he never uttered a word of complaint.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few hours' +sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on after this +most miserable experience was very unwise, since by returning to +the ship they would only lose one day's march and everything could +be dried for a fresh start. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_100"><span class="page">Page 100</span></a> +Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the rest +of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and were found +quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On the journey back the +thermometer recorded -53°, and the effect of such a temperature +upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall remember the condition +of my trousers for a long while; they might have been cut out of +sheet iron. It was some time before I could walk with any sort of +ease, and even when we reached the ship I was conscious of carrying +an armor plate behind me.... It will certainly be a very long time +before I go to sleep again in a tent which is not properly secured.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers +had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain, +Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding. +Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and +to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the +morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that +he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the south, +with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave orders +to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever turns and +twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light he could see +the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the bare ice surface, +by slight differences in shade, and though he could not see them +where they dived into the valleys, he found that the bridges were +strong enough to bear. In +<a name="page_101"><span class="page">Page 101</span></a> +his desire to use the snowy patches as far as possible, the course +he took was very irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut +corners. In this manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott +suddenly heard a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that +Feather had vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right, +but their leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that +the trace had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his +great relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon +hauled up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through +where it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of +few words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to +cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt +that he had a very close call. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant to +give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the four +sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up and down +in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing not a single +thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which it had fallen. +It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was, but, after some +consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed that he should +be let down and undertake the very cold job of unpacking it. So +he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope, while the other was +used for hauling up the various packages; and at last the load +was got up, and the lightened sledge soon followed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After this incident they thought it prudent to treat these numerous +crevasses with more respect, and on +<a name="page_102"><span class="page">Page 102</span></a> +proceeding they roped themselves together; but although no more +mishaps occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute +this to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day, +I cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not +the least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and +the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion +can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there +were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb +that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The depôt, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and +150 lbs. of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and +besides marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful +to take angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could +see. Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what was +meant no longer required any driving. On the homeward march the +travelers went for all they were worth, and in spite of perpetual +fog covered eighty-five statute miles in less than three days. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most delightful +place. The sense of having done what he wanted to do had something +to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but it was the actual +physical comfort after days of privation that chiefly affected him. +The joy of possessing the sledding appetite was sheer delight, and +for many days after the travelers returned from their sledding-trips, +they retained a hunger which it seemed impossible to satisfy. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_103"><span class="page">Page 103</span></a> +In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with +himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all +his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered +what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment, +had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this +was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy—the disease +that has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part +in the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of which +everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations cannot +fail to realize. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when +he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's +medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all +attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but +the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts, +and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance +to break out. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything in +her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party, sent +out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was given that +no tinned meat of any description should be issued. By October 20 +this grave disease had to all intents and purposes passed away, +but although evidence showed that it was +<a name="page_104"><span class="page">Page 104</span></a> +caused by tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best +quality, and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities, +there was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for +when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health +and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on +the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this +pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished +with astonishing rapidity, it was—quite apart from the benefit +lost to medical science—very annoying not to be able to say +definitely from what the evil had sprung. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated, +and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence, preparations +for the various journeys were pushed on with no less vigour and +enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was nothing really to +be alarmed about, and everyone played it with the greatest success. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party +would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance +from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability +no further depôts could be established, it was desirable that +this party should be supported as far as possible on their route. +To meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party +of twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights +were reduced to an amount +<a name="page_105"><span class="page">Page 105</span></a> +which the dogs could drag without assistance. Then Barne was to +return to the ship, and after a short rest start again with six +men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff. As soon as this +was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal all the men and +material left in the ship for his attack on the western region. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks +before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned +with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the +'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be +sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had +a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the +expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find +that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately after +the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and with no +symptom of the disease. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents +by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased they +were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in fact one +tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants could be +got into the open, while the sledges and everything left outside +were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated round +the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of canvas, +and reduced the interior space to such an extent that those inside +were obliged to lie with their knees bent double. Royds, whose +reports were invariably very brief and to +<a name="page_106"><span class="page">Page 106</span></a> +the point, dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page, +but no great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible +discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party +recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were +scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were +the amusing incidents that had happened. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and +among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only +testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery +on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest +type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity +of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to +face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no small +satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the habits +of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all others of +the feathered tribe.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern +journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it +was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne +and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left a +few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning, amidst +a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and employed +it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles... Barne's +banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack, and +<a name="page_107"><span class="page">Page 107</span></a> +another carried a flag with a large device stating "<i>No dogs +needs apply</i>"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting +sight to see nearly the whole of our small company step out on +the march with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this +kind promised to be done as heartily.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward +to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he, +Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades, +started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on the +floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany us +for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great +effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in +spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had +to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest +of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all +tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and +still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards +they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out +to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the +same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by +bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott +camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and re-passed +each other, since it was +<a name="page_108"><span class="page">Page 108</span></a> +impossible for Scott to push on ahead of Barne's party, and the +latter's progress was very slow, as they could get no hold with +their fur boots, and they found their ski leather boots dreadfully +cold for their feet. To add to the slowness of the journey the +weather was very unfavorable, and the greater parts of the 8th and +9th were entirely wasted by a blizzard. On the 10th Depôt A, +that had previously been laid, was reached and Scott wrote: 'Already +it seems to me that the dogs feel the monotony of a long march over +the snow more than we do; they seem easily to get dispirited, and +that it is not due to fatigue is shown when they catch a glimpse +of anything novel.... To-day, for instance, they required some +driving until they caught sight of the depôt flag, when they +gave tongue loudly and dashed off as though they barely felt the +load behind them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The names of the dogs were: +</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"> + <tr><td>Nigger</td> <td>Birdie</td> <td>Wolf</td></tr> + <tr><td>Jim</td> <td>Nell</td> <td>Vic</td></tr> + <tr><td>Spud</td> <td>Blanco</td> <td>Bismarck</td></tr> + <tr><td>Snatcher</td> <td>Grannie</td> <td>Kid</td></tr> + <tr><td>Fitzclarence</td> <td>Lewis</td> <td>Boss</td></tr> + <tr><td>Stripes</td> <td>Gus</td> <td>Brownie</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> <td>Joe</td> <td> </td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="indent"> +Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern +party did not already know concerning their individualities, they +had ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next +few weeks. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_109"><span class="page">Page 109</span></a> +Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally for +himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved so +unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things, that +he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could scarcely +be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move, and in +camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow being +shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring up +and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark +of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when +the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every +movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed +his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push +affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come +along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the evening +halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks and +remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting +on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew +perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards, +however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note +could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if +disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first +of all. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly +clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up +to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at +pretending to pull; +<a name="page_110"><span class="page">Page 110</span></a> +Spud was generally considered to be daft; Birdie evidently had been +treated badly in his youth and remained distrustful and suspicious +to the end; Kid was the most indefatigable worker in the team; Wolf's +character possessed no redeeming point of any kind, while Brownie +though a little too genteel for very hard work was charming as a pet, +and it may also be said of him that he never lost an opportunity +of using his pleasant appearance and delightful ways to lighten his +afflictions. The load for this dog team after Depôt A had +been passed was 1,850 lbs., which, considering that some of the +dogs were of little use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten +that the men also expected to pull, and that each night the weight +would be reduced by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers +were nearly up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south +than anyone had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused +great jubilation, and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer +than fifteen of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the +record.' A photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then +half of the supporting party started to return, and the other half +stepped out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned +back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's +work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is +evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme +toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_111"><span class="page">Page 111</span></a> +We have decided that if things have not improved in the morning +we will take on half a load at a time; after a few days of this +sort of thing the loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to +continue in the old way again.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads promptly +and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to divide the +load into two portions and take half on at a time. This meant, of +course, that each mile had to be traveled three times, but there +was no alternative to this tedious form of advance. Even, however, +with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost all their spirit, +and at the end of the march on the 18th they were practically 'done.' +Only five geographical miles[1] were gained on that day, but to +do it they had to cover fifteen. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: 7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute +miles.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse, and +it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were eating +permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had intended +to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in an unlucky +moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving to take fish. +The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such as is split, +dried and exported from that country in great quantities for human +food. But one important point was overlooked, namely the probability +of the fish being affected on passing through the tropics. The +lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that in future travelers in the +south should safeguard their +<a name="page_112"><span class="page">Page 112</span></a> +dogs as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was +the dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours +in their tent which might have been devoted to marching. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the monotony +of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st, and as the +prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily disappearing, +it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and edge towards +it. Then the surface over which they were traveling showed signs +of improvement, but the travelers themselves were beginning to +suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and their eyes were +also troubling them. Appetites, however, were increasing by leaps +and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked to on our long marches +is the prospect of the next meal.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little variation +in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the first half-load +one of the three stopped with it, and got up the tent and prepared +the meal while the other two brought up the second half-load. And +then on the following day came one of those rewards which was all the +sweeter because it had been gained by ceaseless and very monotonous +toil. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote, +'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80° 1'. All our +charts of the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond +the eightieth parallel... It has always been our ambition to get +inside that white +<a name="page_113"><span class="page">Page 113</span></a> +space, and now we are there the space can no longer be a blank; +this compensates for a lot of trouble.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so exhausted +that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather had not +compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always able to +foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he invariably +suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he could not help +being a very effective barometer. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning of +the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no time +to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest, and +there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine of +relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement in +the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land in +hopes of making a depôt; so the course was laid to the westward +of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they +were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty +miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day +has only given us a bare four miles.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work and +the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that they +marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was between +4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp somewhere +between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested while the +sun was at its greatest +<a name="page_114"><span class="page">Page 114</span></a> +height; but although there were certainly advantages in this, Scott +could not get rid of a curious feeling that something was amiss +with such a topsy-turvy method of procedure. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out some +of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of mountains, +which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at least fifty miles +away. By far the nearest point of land was an isolated snow-cape, +an immense, and almost dome-shaped, snow-covered mass. At first +no rock at all could be seen on it, but as they got nearer a few +patches began to appear. For one of these patches they decided to +make so that they might establish a depôt, but at the rate +at which they were traveling there was little hope of reaching +it for several days. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that when +the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin, and both +smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But what saddened +them more than this taste of paraffin was the discovery, on December +5, that their oil was going too fast. A gallon was to have lasted +twelve days, but on investigation it was found on an average to +have lasted only ten, which meant that in the future each gallon +would have to last a fortnight. 'This is a distinct blow, as we +shall have to sacrifice our hot luncheon meal and to economize +greatly at both the others. We started the new routine to-night, +and for lunch ate some frozen seal-meat and our allowance of sugar +and biscuit.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_115"><span class="page">Page 115</span></a> +It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was +not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when +the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional +discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when +Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's +balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his +hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance +of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his +gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort +from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was +a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and +on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily going +downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than counter-balanced +by the weakening of the animals, and I can see no time in which +we can hope to get the sledges along without pulling ourselves.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast, but +so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and even +supposing they did get there and make a depôt, they doubted +very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog, +Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been got +to move with the second load by the ignominious device of carrying +food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was agony to those +who had to drive and coax them on, and though Scott refers often +in these days to the hunger that was nipping him, +<a name="page_116"><span class="page">Page 116</span></a> +no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely more he +was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about his own +troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost spent, +at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march they had +only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous exertions, +for the snow became softer as they approached the land, and the +sledge-runners sank from three to four inches. On any particularly +soft patch they could do little more than mark time, and even to +advance a yard was an achievement. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions +and a quantity of dog-food in Depôt B and had resumed their +march, sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know +how to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay +work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst +I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more, I +am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare, +which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief +was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs +were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment +have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced, +and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise to +push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer was +that the risk +<a name="page_117"><span class="page">Page 117</span></a> +of going on should be taken, but on that same night Wilson, in view +of future plans, reported to Scott that his medical examinations +revealed that Shackleton had decidedly angry-looking gums, and that +for some time they had been slowly but surely getting worse. It +was decided not to tell Shackleton of these symptoms of scurvy, +and as the bacon they were using seemed likely to be the cause of +them, it was discarded and an increased allowance of seal given +in its place. This was a loss in weight which was serious, for +already they were reduced almost to starvation rations of about +a pound and a half a day. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Supper was the best meal, for then they had a <i>hoosh</i> which +ran from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but +even this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being +heated in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but the +lamp was turned out directly the <i>hoosh</i> boiled, and by that +time the chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker. +Of course the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were long +past criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted was +something to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got it. +Half an hour after supper was over they were as hungry as ever. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea +that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience +showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid system +of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to divide +<a name="page_118"><span class="page">Page 118</span></a> +things into three equal portions, and as the man who made the division +felt called upon to take the smallest share, the game of 'shut-eye' +was invented to stop all arguments and remonstrances. The shares +were divided as equally as possible by someone, then one of the +other two turned his head away and the divider pointed to a portion +and said, 'Whose is this?' He of the averted head named the owner, +and thus this simple but useful game was played. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not encouraging, +but they had reached a much harder surface and under those conditions +Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet time to say 'Turn.' +Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them, and for a week they +had all agreed that it would be a crime to go to bed hungry on that +night. In fact they meant it to be a wonderful day, and everything +conspired to make it so. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of +wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as the +scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for once +they were going to have a really substantial breakfast, and this +was an irresistible counter-attraction. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than +they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better +that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs. +On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven +miles, the longest march they had made for a long +<a name="page_119"><span class="page">Page 119</span></a> +time. So when camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with +the day, and ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered. +A double 'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot, +and in the <i>hoosh</i> that followed a spoon would stand without +any support, and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is still +circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is warm and quiet. +All is pleasant without, and within we have a sense of comfort we +have not known for many a day; we shall sleep well tonight—no +dreams, no tightening of the belt. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the conversation +turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas is like in +England... and how our friends picture us. They will guess that +we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps think of us +on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the truth, that +for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_120"><span class="page">Page 120</span></a> +CHAPTER VI +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE RETURN</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> + How many weary steps<br /> +Of many weary miles you have o'ergone,<br /> +Are numbered to the travel of one mile.<br /> + SHAKESPEARE. +i</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day wore +off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise uninterrupted +spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered long after +hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this time they +knew that they had cut themselves too short in the matter of food, +but the only possible alteration that could now be made in their +arrangements was to curtail their journey, and rather than do that +they were ready cheerfully to face the distress of having an enormous +appetite, and very little with which to appease it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the +ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing +weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a greater +rate than they could renew them, and that the additional +<a name="page_121"><span class="page">Page 121</span></a> +weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would have +been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength and +vigour. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another +disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it was +impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before +they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would +give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast, +while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps +went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced before +another meal. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could +eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping +up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental +and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they knew +that they were penetrating farther and farther into the unknown. +Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their labours more +assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving sledge-meter +or looked for the calculated results of their observations, it +is not surprising that above all the desires for food was an +irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to extend the line +which they were now drawing on the white space of the Antarctic +chart. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land was +passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without the disclosure +of some new +<a name="page_122"><span class="page">Page 122</span></a> +feature, something on which the eye of man had never rested; we +should have been poor souls indeed had we not been elated at the +privilege of being the first to gaze on these splendid scenes.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the point of view of further exploration their position on +December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high undulating +snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the south lay a cape +beyond which they could not hope to pass, and to all appearances +these conditions were likely to remain to the end of their journey. +But on that night they had christened a distant and lofty peak +'Mount Longstaff,' in honour of the man whose generosity had alone +made the expedition possible, and although they thought that this +was the most southerly land to which they would be able to give a +name, they were in no mood to turn back because the outlook was +unpromising. Arguing on the principle that it was impossible to tell +what may turn up, they all decided to push on; and their decision was +wise, for had they returned at that point one of the most important +features of the whole coast-line would have been missed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, +which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott had +remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry: 'When +it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days he will +spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent sketching +each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene to the west. +His sketches +<a name="page_123"><span class="page">Page 123</span></a> +are most astonishingly accurate; I have tested his proportions by +actual angular measurements and found them correct.... But these +long hours in the glare are very bad for the eyes; we have all +suffered a good deal from snow-blindness of late, though we generally +march with goggles, but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear +it is mainly due to his sketching.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than anything +that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th Wilson was +pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely covered. +To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch the bottom +of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest intention +of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and telling him +of the changes that were happening around them he plodded steadily +on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it happened that a most +glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed itself. With some +excitement Scott noticed that new mountain ridges were appearing +as high as anything they had seen to the north, and his excitement +increased when these ridges grew higher and higher. Then, instead +of a downward turn in the distant outline came a steep upward line, +and as they pressed on apace to see what would happen next, Scott +did his best to keep Wilson posted up in the latest details. The +end came in a gloriously sharp double peak crowned with a few flecks +of cirrus cloud, and all they could think of in camp that night +was this splendid twin-peaked mountain, which even in such +<a name="page_124"><span class="page">Page 124</span></a> +a lofty country looked like a giant among pigmies. 'At last we +have found something which is fitting to bear the name of him whom +we must always the most delight to honour, and "Mount Markham" +it shall be called in memory of the father of the expedition.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss +this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to +be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect +view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the limit +of their journey would be reached, and that they would have but +few more opportunities to increase their stock of information. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most +interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags, +full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead +of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the tent +while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when they +got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped +in a thick fog. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their +last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached. +Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though +this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped for +when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he anticipated +when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says, 'one cannot help +a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting on the "might have been" +<a name="page_125"><span class="page">Page 125</span></a> +had our team remained in good health, one cannot but remember that +even as it is we have made a greater advance towards a pole of +the earth than has ever yet been achieved by a sledge party.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Depôt +B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year, +and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving +dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many +of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but +those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had +of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to the +suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely he +felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January 3. +This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite played +out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid" caved +in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled like +a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him up till +his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team now remained, +and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but Nigger, though +weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But at the end of +a week on the return journey, all of the remaining dogs were asked +to do nothing except walk by the sledges. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered +ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling was as +nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer having to +<a name="page_126"><span class="page">Page 126</span></a> +drive a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering and dragging +in front would be needed, no more tangled traces would have to be +put straight, and above all there would be no more whip. So far +steady though rather slow progress had been made, but January 8 +brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they would the sledge could +scarcely be made to move, and after three hours of the hardest +work only a mile and a quarter had been gained. Sadly they were +compelled to admit that the surface had so completely changed that +the only thing to do was to remain in camp until it improved. But +whether it would improve was an anxious matter, for they had less +than a week's provisions and were at least fifty miles from Depôt +B. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and a +fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were left, +Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost out +of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and marched +along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling. But this +more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by a march in +a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had even a more +serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind them they +had gained many miles, but the march had tired them out, because +instead of the steady pulling to which they were accustomed they +had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes to pull forwards, +backwards, sideways, and always with their senses keenly alert +and their muscles strung up for instant action. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_127"><span class="page">Page 127</span></a> +On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote: 'We +cannot now be far from our depôt, but then we do not exactly +know where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if this +thick weather continues we shall probably not be able to find it.' +And after two more days of bad surface and thick weather he wrote +again: 'There is no doubt we are approaching a very critical time. +The depôt is a very small spot on a very big ocean of snow; +with luck one might see it at a mile and a half or two miles, and +fortune may direct our course within this radius of it; but, on +the other hand, it is impossible not to contemplate the ease with +which such a small spot can be missed.... The annoying thing is that +one good clear sight of the land would solve all our difficulties.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever. +Three hours' incessant labour had gained only three-quarters of a +mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag was a +mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that remained +in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But later on Scott +caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and tumbled hastily out of +his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining a meridional altitude; +and after getting the very best result he could under the very +difficult conditions prevailing, he casually lowered the telescope +and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly a speck seemed to flash +by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose. Then he brought the +telescope slowly back, and there it was again, and accompanied this +<a name="page_128"><span class="page">Page 128</span></a> +time by two smaller specks on either side of it. Without a shadow +of doubt it was the depôt which meant the means of life to +them. 'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's the depôt." +We are not a demonstrative party, but I think we excused ourselves +for the wild cheer that greeted this announcement.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though +the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different +mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as +possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten +as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they were +going to have the fat <i>hoosh</i> which would once more give them an +internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the depôt, +and there they found everything as they had left it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver from +the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by the fat +<i>hoosh</i> of their dreams they completed the comparison between +the two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners. +Having equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the +sledges round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely +move the metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only +about 130 miles to cover to their next depôt, a full three +weeks' provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood +runners, they went to bed +<a name="page_129"><span class="page">Page 129</span></a> +feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been lifted. The chief +cause of worry left was the question of health, and the result +of a thorough medical examination on the morning of the 14th did +nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found to be very far indeed +from well, but although Scott and Wilson both showed symptoms of +scurvy they still felt that, as far as they were concerned, there +was no danger of a breakdown. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of it +Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really +alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but +we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse; +now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be +sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it had +to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his restless, +energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night I have +talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work, but +to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must be +devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck to +bring him through.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic +story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors +of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the +camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through our +most troublous time we always looked forward to getting +<a name="page_130"><span class="page">Page 130</span></a> +some of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then +seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should +be able to bring back these two.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the part of the return journey which was now beginning, +they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that it +resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick companion. +The weather also added to their troubles, because it was so overcast +that steering was extremely difficult. For nearly ten consecutive +days this gloomy weather continued to harass them, but on the 20th +it cleared as they were on their march, and on the following day +with a brisk southerly breeze and their sail set they traveled +along at a fine rate. The state of Shackleton's health was still +a source of acutest anxiety, but each march brought safety nearer +and nearer, and on the 23rd Scott was able to write in a much more +hopeful spirit. Next day a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was +seen, but this encouraging sight was accompanied by a new form +of surface which made the pulling very wearisome. An inch or so +beneath the soft snow surface was a thin crust, almost, but not +quite, sufficient to bear their weight. The work of breaking such +a surface as this would, Scott says, have finished Shackleton in +no time, but luckily he was able to go on ski and avoid the jars. +'In spite of our present disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess +that if we get back safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair +he is now using.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig007.jpg" width="809" height="521" alt="Figure 7"> +<br />MOUNT EREBUS. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_131"><span class="page">Page 131</span></a> +But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott and +Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to chance, +and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition would +allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off and got +well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and after lunch +the same procedure was adopted. By this means he was able to take +things easily, and though eager to do his share of the work he +was wise enough to see that every precaution taken was absolutely +necessary. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between, +but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered them +to think that they had seen something that was actually beyond the +ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away, but they +had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance that they +were not in the least astonished by this. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on as usual +the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon afterwards +discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no doubt that +the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey work to the +west, but it was wonderful what that track told them. They could +see that there had been six men with two sledges, and that all of +the former had been going strong and well on ski. From the state +of the track this party had evidently passed about four days before +on the homeward route, and from +<a name="page_132"><span class="page">Page 132</span></a> +the zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must +have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added +some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study. +But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne and +his party were safe, and this after their own experiences was a +great relief. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another day and a half of labour brought them to the depôt, +and the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our +tent was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish +glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil enough +for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have lasted +us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag which +we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just opened +this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents. There +are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup squares, +pea soup, and many other delights that already make our mouths +water. For each one of us there is some special trifle which the +forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being an extra +packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are a whole heap +of folded letters and notes—<i>billets-doux</i> indeed. I +wonder if a mail was ever more acceptable.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labour, had succeeded +in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's +egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal +itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an +<a name="page_133"><span class="page">Page 133</span></a> +unqualified success, for after being accustomed to starvation or +semi-starvation rations, they were in no condition either to resist +or to digest any unstinted meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered +acutely. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and the first +thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned when Shackleton +was found to be extremely ill. Everything now depended upon the +weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott doubted if Shackleton +would even be well enough to be carried on the sledge. 'It is a +great disappointment; last night we thought ourselves out of the +wood with all our troubles behind us, and to-night matters seem +worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are pretty fit, and we have +lots of food.' By great luck the weather cleared on the morning +of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a very bad night revived a +little it was felt that the only chance was to go on. 'At last +he was got away, and we watched him almost tottering along with +frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our provisions, in half an hour +we had packed our camp, set our sail, and started with the sledges. +It was not long before we caught our invalid, who was so exhausted +that we thought it wiser he should sit on the sledges, where for +the remainder of the forenoon, with the help of our sail, we carried +him.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the +blizzard, but fortune favored them during the last stages of the +struggle homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful effect +upon the +<a name="page_134"><span class="page">Page 134</span></a> +sick man. By the night of February 2 they were within ten or twelve +miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of a successful end to their +troubles. During the afternoon they had passed round the corner +of White Island, and as they did so the old familiar outline of the +friendly peninsula suddenly opened up before them. On every side +were suggestions of home, and their joy at seeing the well-known +landmarks was increased by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent +as three persons can well be.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his +companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew +how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And both +Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been advancing +rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to themselves or +each other how 'done' they were. For many a day Wilson had suffered +from lameness, and each morning had vainly tried to disguise his +limp, but from his set face Scott knew well enough how much he +suffered before the first stiffness wore off. 'As for myself, for +some time I have hurried through the task of changing my foot-gear +in an attempt to forget that my ankles are considerably swollen. +One and all we want rest and peace, and, all being well, tomorrow, +thank Heaven, we shall get them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during +this remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up +their camp for the last time and set their faces towards Observation +Hill. Brilliant +<a name="page_135"><span class="page">Page 135</span></a> +weather still continued, and after plodding on for some hours two +specks appeared, which at first were thought to be penguins, but +presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them. Early in the +morning they had been reported by watchers on the hills, and Skelton +and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened to +a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other travelers +returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but the relief +ship, the <i>Morning</i>, had also arrived and brought a whole +year's news. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed, +they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from +December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts +busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved +ship. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Though still held fast in her icy prison the <i>Discovery</i> looked +trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion +a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while +as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with +their cheering comrades. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their +shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them, +no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time +it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to +be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended, +<a name="page_136"><span class="page">Page 136</span></a> +and that rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three +days they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the +fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered 960 +statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the beginning +had not been completely achieved, they knew at any rate that they +had striven and endured to the limit of their powers. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_137"><span class="page">Page 137</span></a> +CHAPTER VII +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">A SECOND WINTER</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +As cold waters to a thirsty soul,<br /> +So is good news from a far country.<br /> + PROVERBS. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources +of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his absence, +and that parties had been going and coming and ever adding to the +collection of knowledge. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how the +Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid progress +had been made in the preparations for the western party that November +9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a general holiday +and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic sports. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the +toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple +had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no +sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start +was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the +<a name="page_138"><span class="page">Page 138</span></a> +queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number +were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something of +a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate +arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from the +same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what +was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion +secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race was +considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start it was +seen that this couple had laboured in vain; for although they shot +ahead at first, their speed was so great that they could not control +their machine. In a moment they were rolling head-over-heels in +clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus amusing itself a tortoise +slid past and won the race. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey, +and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound and +attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton and ten +men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar, Dellbridge +and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage and his party +during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt a practicable +road to the interior was discovered and traversed, and the barrier +of mountains that had seemed so formidable an obstruction from the +ship was conquered. It was equally certain that the party could +claim to be the first to set foot on the interior of Victoria Land +but they had been forced to turn back at an extremely +<a name="page_139"><span class="page">Page 139</span></a> +interesting point, and in consequence were unable to supply very +definite information with regard to the ice-cap. They had, however, +fulfilled their main object, and in doing so had disclosed problems +that caused the deepest interest to be focussed upon the direction +in which they had traveled. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among the +rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits. These, +with other observations, showed the strong probability of the existence +of sedimentary deposits which might be reached and examined, and +which alone could serve to reveal the geological history of this +great southern continent. At all hazards Scott determined that +the geologist of the expedition must be given a chance to explore +this most interesting region. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically +stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on +shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that +remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by resorting +to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful expeditions. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the ship +was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on board +in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic measures +had to be taken before they could be released from their beds of +ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen depths, +it was not possible +<a name="page_140"><span class="page">Page 140</span></a> +that the task could be accomplished without doing considerable +damage. When at length all of them had been brought to the surface +their condition was exceedingly dilapidated; indeed only two of +them were in a condition to float; but although it was evident +that the carpenter would be busy for many weeks before they would +be seaworthy, their reappearance was a tremendous relief. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions +that the <i>Discovery</i> should be prepared for sea by the end +of January. Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there +was still plenty of employment for everybody, since 'preparations +for sea' under such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount +of labour. Tons and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck +with pick-axes and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes +had to be looked to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything +got ready for handling the ship under sail; many things that had +been displaced or landed near the shore-station had to be brought +on board and secured in position; thirty tons of ice had to be +fetched, melted, and run into the boilers; below, steam-pipes had +to be rejointed, glands re-packed, engines turned by hand, and +steam raised to see that all was in working order. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship, +this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern travelers +returned all was ready for them to put to sea again. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_141"><span class="page">Page 141</span></a> +But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back to +safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival +of the <i>Morning</i>. How the funds were raised by means of which +this ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was +due to the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir +Clements Markham that the <i>Morning</i>, commanded by Lieutenant +William Colbeck, R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on +July 9, 1902. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Long before the <i>Discovery</i> had left New Zealand the idea +of a relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great +difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if the +thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it. Obviously +then it was desirable to leave as much information as possible +on the track, and the relief ship was to try and pick up clues +at the places where Scott had said that he would attempt to leave +them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession Islands, Coulman +Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape Crozier. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there Colbeck +heard of the <i>Discovery's</i> safe arrival in the south. The +Possession Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been +able to land there, and south of this the whole coast was so thickly +packed that the <i>Morning</i> could not approach either Coulman +Island or Wood Bay. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but +<a name="page_142"><span class="page">Page 142</span></a> +without result; and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not +until four days later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck +himself joined the landing party, and after spending several hours +in fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning +despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly a +small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it, and +in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into the +mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the <i>Discovery</i>, +and practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On board the <i>Discovery</i> the idea had steadily grown that +a relief ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had +begun to look upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of +January it was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke +had been seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally +received without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down the +hill on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a ship +in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable +of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early on +the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The <i>Morning</i> +was lying some ten miles north of the <i>Discovery</i>, but it +was far easier to see her than to reach her. At last, however, +the party, after various little adventures, stood safely on deck +and received the warmest of welcomes. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the last week of January the weather was +<a name="page_143"><span class="page">Page 143</span></a> +in its most glorious mood, and with some of the treacherous thin +ice breaking away the <i>Morning</i> was able to get a mile nearer. +Parties constantly passed to and fro between the two ships, and +everyone—with unshaken confidence that the <i>Discovery</i> +would soon be free—gave themselves up to the delight of fresh +companionship, and the joy of good news from the home country. To +this scene of festivity and cheeriness Scott, Wilson and Shackleton +returned on February 3, and though the last to open their letters +they had the satisfaction of knowing that the <i>Morning</i> had +brought nothing but good news. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern +party's return to make his first visit to the <i>Discovery</i>, +and soon after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was +reveling in the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of +welcoming him on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,' +Scott says, 'I had little expected that the first feast in our +home quarters would be taken with strange faces gathered round our +festive table, but so it was, and I can well remember the look of +astonishment that dawned on those faces when we gradually displayed +our power of absorbing food.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease, +for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition +was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although +he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused +a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from +<a name="page_144"><span class="page">Page 144</span></a> +the violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the +journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs +of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that +on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained +quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is a +very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern +journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this +collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the +determination which must have upheld him during the last marches. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no means +fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were very +uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was attacked +by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental weariness. +'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse myself from this +slothful humour, and it was many weeks before I had returned to +a normally vigorous condition. It was probably this exceptionally +relaxed state of health that made me so slow to realize that the +ice conditions were very different from what they had been in the +previous season.... The prospect of the ice about us remaining fast +throughout the season never once entered my head.' His diary, however, +for the month shows how he gradually awakened to the true state of +affairs, and on February 13 he decided to begin the transport of +stores from the <i>Morning</i> to the <i>Discovery</i>, so that +the former ship 'should run no risk of being detained.' And on +the 18th when +<a name="page_145"><span class="page">Page 145</span></a> +he paid his first visit to the <i>Morning</i> and found the journey +'an awful grind,' he had begun to wonder whether the floe was ever +going to break up. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig008.jpg" width="516" height="816" alt="Figure 8"> +<br />LUNAR CORONA. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The <i>Morning</i> +must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that we +shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up may +come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had decided +that if they had to remain the ship's company should be reduced, +and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told them that he +wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing. On the following +day a list was sent round for the names of those who wanted to +go, and the result was curiously satisfactory—for Scott had +determined that eight men should go, and not only were there eight +names on the list, but they were also precisely those which Scott +would have put there had he made the selection. Shackleton also +had to be told that he must go, as in his state of health Scott +did not think that any further hardships ought to be risked; but +in his place Scott requisitioned Mulock who by an extraordinary +chance is just the very man we wanted. We have now an immense amount +of details for charts... and Mulock is excellent at this work and +as keen as possible. It is rather amusing, as he is the only person +who is obviously longing for the ice to stop in, though of course +he doesn't say so. The other sporting characters are still giving +ten to one that it will go out, but I am bound to confess that +I am not sanguine.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_146"><span class="page">Page 146</span></a> +The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on February +16, and before the end of the month all hope of the <i>Discovery</i> +being able to leave with the <i>Morning</i> had been abandoned. On +March 2 nearly the whole of the <i>Discovery's</i> company were +entertained on board the <i>Morning</i>, and on the following day +the relief ship slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few +minutes she was turning to the north, with every rope and spar +outlined against the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was +raised as she gathered way, and long after she had passed out of +earshot the little band stood gazing at her receding hull, and +wondering when they too would be able to take the northern track. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the <i>Morning</i> went a letter from Scott which shows that +although in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain +for another winter, both he and his companions were not by any +means dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen +on getting a look round C. North before making for home. However we +all take it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and contented +on board, and shall have lots to do in winter, spring and summer. +We will have a jolly good try to free the ship next year, though +I fear manual labour doesn't go far with such terribly heavy ice +as we have here; but this year we were of course unprepared, and +when we realized the situation it was too late to begin anything +like extensive operations. I can rely on every single man that +remains in the ship and I gave them all the option of leaving... +<a name="page_147"><span class="page">Page 147</span></a> +the ship's company is now practically naval-officers and men—it +is rather queer when one looks back to the original gift of two +officers.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and +fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry; +at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly +before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away at +the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers +not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those who +were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and Bernacchi +are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise, and for the +manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition the greatest +admiration is expressed. But in some way or other Scott discovered +good points in all the officers he mentioned, and if they were +not satisfactory in every way his object seemed to be rather to +excuse than to blame them. He was, however, unaffectedly glad to +see the last of the cook, for the latter had shown himself far +more capable at talking than at cooking, and had related so many +of his wonderful adventures that one of the sailors reckoned that +the sum total of these thrilling experiences must have extended +over a period of five hundred and ninety years—which, as +the sailor said, was a fair age even for a cook. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled +to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given +to prepare the +<a name="page_148"><span class="page">Page 148</span></a> +ship for it. Compared with the previous year the weather had been +a great deal worse, for there had been more wind and much lower +temperatures, and under such conditions it was hopeless to go on +expecting the ice to break up. But it was not to be wondered at +that they found themselves wondering what their imprisonment meant. +Was it the present summer or the last that was the exception? For +them this was the gravest question, since on the answer to it their +chance of getting away next year, or at all, depended. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While, however, the situation as regards the future was not altogether +without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the best of the +present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was determined to +keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout the winter, and +consequently a great number of seals and skuas had to be killed. +At first the skua had been regarded as unfit for human food, but +Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in a noose and promptly +put it into the pot. And the result was so satisfactory that the +skua at once began to figure prominently on the menu. They had, +however, to deplore the absence of penguins from their winter diet, +because none had been seen near the ship for a long time. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon +this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would be +agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but otherwise +we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work; +<a name="page_149"><span class="page">Page 149</span></a> +we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in +lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of +light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended +with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball furiously +driven by Royds.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of the months that followed little need be said, except that Scott's +anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter passed by +without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found them even +more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to work away +with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who had been +trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities for the work, +was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking all the +observations, and later on in constructing temporary charts; while +Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent many a day at +his distant sounding holes. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was +carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while many +new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in serviceable +work that when the second long Polar night ended, Scott was able to +write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board the <i>Discovery</i> +who would say that it has been a hardship.... All thoughts are turned +towards the work that lies before us, and it would be difficult to +be blind to the possible extent of its usefulness. Each day has +brought it more home to us how little we know and how much there +is to be learned, and we +<a name="page_150"><span class="page">Page 150</span></a> +realize fully that this second year's work may more than double +the value of our observations. Life in these regions has lost any +terror it ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may, +we can live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years +to come.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_151"><span class="page">Page 151</span></a> +CHAPTER VIII +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE WESTERN JOURNEY</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Path of advance! but it leads<br> +A long steep journey through sunk<br> +Gorges, o'er mountains in snow.—M. ARNOLD. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +During the second winter much time and attention had to be given +to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it +that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But in +spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season was +bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an inferior +quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were blackened +with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many places; the +cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear; the wind +clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small bags, which +were required for provisions, they were obliged to fall back on any +sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This state of things, +however, was very far from daunting their spirits, and long before +the winter was over the plan of campaign for the next season had +been drawn up. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In making the program Scott knew that extended +<a name="page_152"><span class="page">Page 152</span></a> +journeys could only be made by properly supported parties, and it +was easy to see that his small company would not be able to make +more than two supported journeys, though it might be just possible +to make a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The +next thing to decide was in what direction these parties should +go, and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay +in the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point +of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must, Scott +determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey to the +west he decided to lead himself. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope +to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had +been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many +problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary straits +that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges without rising +in level. It was therefore with the main object of exploring one +of them that the second supported party, under the leadership of +Barne and Mulock, was to set out. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported +party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask +Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on +a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this +question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and decided +that the only way to get it was to go and see. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig009.jpg" width="554" height="407" + alt="Figure 9"> +<br />PINNACLED ICE AT MOUTH OF FERRAR GLACIER. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig010.jpg" width="552" height="420" + alt="Figure 10"> +<br />PRESSURE RIDGES NORTH SIDE OF DISCOVERY BLUFF. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_153"><span class="page">Page 153</span></a> +Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of shorter +ones for specific purposes, and the most important of these were +the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery, as it was hoped +that Wilson would be able to observe these birds from the beginning +of their breeding season. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding +arrangements, for although the <i>Discovery</i> was mainly at the +mercy of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything +man could do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as +they could hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet +around them, the whole force of the company was to set to work +at the task of extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to +start in time to assure their return to the ship by the middle +of December. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton, Dailey, +Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find a new road +to the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a depôt ready for +a greater effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier descends +gradually to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor, but Armitage +had reported most adversely on this inlet as a route for sledges, and +in conducting his own party had led it across the high foot-hills. +As yet Scott had not been to this region, but in the nature of +things he could not help thinking that some practical route must +exist up the New Harbour inlet, and that if it could be found the +journey to the west would be much easier. And the result of this +little journey +<a name="page_154"><span class="page">Page 154</span></a> +was really important, for whereas Armitage, at the foot of the +Ferrar Glacier, had seen the disturbance on the south side, and +had concluded that it must extend right across, Scott's party +fortunately pushed over this disturbance and found much easier +conditions beyond it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further +observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where +glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be +found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will +be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course, +is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in the +north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall on +the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part of +the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice disturbance +is caused. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a depôt at +a spot which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back +again at the ship in less than a fortnight. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied; +we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done +a record march, and we had endured record temperatures—at +least, we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to +tell these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached +the ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first +question was, "What temperatures +<a name="page_155"><span class="page">Page 155</span></a> +have you had?" We replied by complacently quoting our array of +<i>minus</i> fifties, but he quickly cut us short by remarking that +we were not in it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap throughout +the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they had been laying +a depôt, had the coldest time, and after their thermometer had +fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke at -67.7°. Royds +and his party also had to endure -62°, but in other respects they +were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier they found that the +Emperor penguins had already hatched out their young, and Wilson +was delighted to get the opportunity of studying the chicks at +such a tender age. Commenting upon this and another journey to +Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor penguin stands nearly +four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty to ninety pounds.... +I think the chickens hate their parents, and when one watches the +proceedings in a rookery it strikes one as not surprising. In the +first place there is about one chick to ten or twelve adults, and +each adult has an overpowering desire to "sit" on something. Both +males and females want to nurse, and the result is that when a +chicken finds himself alone there is a rush on the part of a dozen +unemployed to seize him. Naturally he runs away, and dodges here +and there till a six-stone Emperor falls on him, and then begins +a regular football scrimmage, in which each tries to hustle the +other off, and the end is too often disastrous to the chick.... +I think it is not +<a name="page_156"><span class="page">Page 156</span></a> +an exaggeration to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less +than half are killed by kindness.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens back +to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep them +warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded in his +attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding, and Wilson +says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the age when they +put on their feathers, I fear that the journey home through the +tropics would have proved too much for them, as we had no means +of making a cool place for them on the ship.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on that +day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the sun would +be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the most careful +preparations, and everyone was placed under his orders during the +day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera were trained in the +right direction, magnetic instruments were set to run at quick +speed, and observers were told off to watch everything on which the +absence of sun could possibly have the smallest effect. Everything, +in short, was ready except the sun itself which obstinately refused +to come out. 'There may,' Scott says, 'have been an eclipse of +the sun on September 21, 1903, as the almanac said, but we should +none of us have liked to swear to the fact.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the long +journeys, and on October 12 Scott +<a name="page_157"><span class="page">Page 157</span></a> +left the ship with a party of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First +came his own party, which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly +and Handsley; secondly there was a small party for the geologist, +Ferrar, who was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there +were the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to be the +hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that experience +would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it would take a +good deal to stop the determined men whom he had chosen. At the +start their loads were a little over 200 lbs. per man, but most +of the party were by this time in thoroughly good condition, and +by hard marching they covered the forty-five miles to New Harbour +and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for here +on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh seal-meat, +and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter was carried +and left at the point for each party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until +the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably +beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then +Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split +under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious blow; +for although the wood runners were capable of running on snow without +protection, on +<a name="page_158"><span class="page">Page 158</span></a> +hard, sharp ice, especially if the sledge was heavily laden, they +would be knocked to pieces in a very short time. It was, therefore, +absolutely necessary to protect the runners on this journey, but +unfortunately the German silver protection had already stood a +season's work, and had worn thin without giving any outward sign. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles of +hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately +arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over 6,000 +feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous state +that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned up for +inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained sound, +and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and only one to +take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as they could. Had +two sledges been available the advance party might have struggled on, +but with one they could do nothing; so they left the sound sledge +with everything else except the half-week's provisions necessary +to take them back, and on the following days they 'came as near +flying as is possible with a sledge party.' On the morning of the +19th they had eighty-seven miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on +the 21st they had reached the ship. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During this march Scott had determined to test his own party to +the utmost, but seeing no necessity +<a name="page_159"><span class="page">Page 159</span></a> +for the supports to be dragged into this effort he told them to +take their own time. The supporting party, however, did not mean +to be left behind if they could help it, and later on the night +of the 21st they also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of +the last hours some of the members of the supporting party, though +determined not to give in, had been comically astounded by the +pace which was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott, +kept on repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my +legs are as long as his. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Five days after their flying return they were off again, and although +the material for repairing sledges was very scanty, one sound 11-foot +sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for Ferrar's glacier +work. Trouble, however, almost at once began with the runners, +and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and caused a long delay. +But in spite of being held up by wind for two days, they reached +their depôt on November 1, and thought at first that everything +was safe. On examination, however, they discovered that a violent +gale had forced open the lid of the instrument box, and that several +things were missing, among which Scott found to his dismay was +the 'Hints to Travelers.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November 1, +'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow I +felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second +time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others, +<a name="page_160"><span class="page">Page 160</span></a> +and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to take +the risks of pushing on.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be—as indeed +he was—out of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a +case as this the sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position +as a ship or a boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of his +whereabouts by observation of the sun or stars, and with the help +of these observations he finds his latitude and longitude, but to +do this a certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to Travelers' +supplies these necessary data, and it was on this book that Scott had +been relying to help him to work out his sights and fix accurately +the position of his party. Unless he went back to the ship to make +good his loss, he was obliged to take the risk of marching into +the unknown without knowing exactly where he was or how he was to +get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of our "Hints to Travelers" did +not lead us into serious trouble it caused me many a bad half-hour.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about +it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant +attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach on +the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000 feet. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but November +4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described afterwards as +'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In the morning of +the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold, increasing wind, +<a name="page_161"><span class="page">Page 161</span></a> +but later on the sun disappeared and the weather became very +threatening. Still, however, they battled on and were half-way +up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when the air became +thick with driving snow and the full force of the gale burst upon +them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded in reaching the +top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch of snow on which +to camp, but nothing could be found except bare, blue ice. By this +time the position was becoming serious, all of them were frost-bitten +in the face, and although the runners of the sledges were split +again so badly that they could barely pull them over the surface, +they did not dare to leave the sledges in the thick drift. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but the +snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was almost +as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was this or +nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party, and +dug for all he was worth without making the least impression. At +this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him, and +being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few small +blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and again it +and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour passed before +the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote, 'but experience +saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty confident that +we could not have stood another hour in the open.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Little, however, did they expect when shelter +<a name="page_162"><span class="page">Page 162</span></a> +was gained that a week would pass before they could resume their +march. From November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile +not a vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped +continuously in a thick fog of driving snow. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the +<i>Beagle</i>,' and first one and then another would read this +aloud, until frozen fingers prevented the pages from being turned +over. Only one piece of work were they able to perform, and this +on the first day when, thinking the storm would soon blow over, +they hauled the sledges beneath one of the tents and stripped the +German silver ready for the onward march. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them, +and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the +health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might +be he would try to start on the following morning. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes +both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the +heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling +in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this +unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of +bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is +slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning, +but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be +done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the +<a name="page_163"><span class="page">Page 163</span></a> +storm, and though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was +possible at last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's +party separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall +and eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident. +On starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at +once went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when +they began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting +to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were +in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened; +our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the +night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With +five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many +miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were, +as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different +party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp' +on the morning of the 11th. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started the +journey to the west before troubles again began to gather round them. +The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their sleeping-bags +and night-jackets with ice, and with falling temperatures this ice +had so little chance to evaporate that camping arrangements were +acutely uncomfortable; and as each night the thermometer fell a +little lower, +<a name="page_164"><span class="page">Page 164</span></a> +the chance of relief from this state of things could scarcely be +said to exist. The wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it +was not very strong, when combined with the low temperature and +rarefied air its effect was blighting. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to conceive +a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at this time, +when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs upon the +last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands. Yet +before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word! +Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook +ever so comfortless?' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite of +every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the 17th +the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans leading +with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed with the +other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge had great +difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself felt thoroughly +strong and well, some of his companions were beginning to fail. As +was natural with such men not one of them would own that he was +exhausted, and in consequence it was only by paying the keenest +attention that he could detect those who from sheer incapacity +were relaxing their strain on the traces. And his position was not +pleasant even when he knew, for to tell any of these brave people +that they must turn back was a most unenviable +<a name="page_165"><span class="page">Page 165</span></a> +task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched on, though +Scott was sure that better progress would have been made had the +party been divided. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley +more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean +to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he +begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's +opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would make +him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his diary: +'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children! The +boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has been +pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes through the +traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has never uttered a +word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is on him he straightens +up and pretends he is just as fit as ever. What is one to do with +such people?' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before, but +on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley that +they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise their +disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had to be.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision, +three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and his +companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back upon +this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a +<a name="page_166"><span class="page">Page 166</span></a> +high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the +successful work that was done. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be +a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered.... +Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at +the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task +we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked +out on board the ship.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40° or below, +while during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25°, +and with this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact +the wind was the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces. +So cracked were their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the +first half-hour of the morning march, before they were warmed up +to the work, was dreadful, as then all their sore places got +frost-bitten. In short the last week of their outward march was +a searching test of endurance, but they had resolved to march on +until November 30, and in spite of the miserable conditions there +was no turning back before the month had ended. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30 had +come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march, thank +heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week but the +determination to carry out our original intention of going on to +the end of the month, and so here we have pitched our last camp.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_167"><span class="page">Page 167</span></a> +CHAPTER IX +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE RETURN FROM THE WEST</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude<br /> +Bound its broad zone of stillness.—SHELLEY. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march +out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long way to +the west from my rough noon observation of the compass variation.' +But not for anything in the world did he want again to see the +interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after this great march +he says: 'For me the long month which we spent on the Victoria Land +summit remains as some vivid but evil dream. I have a memory of +continuous strain on mind and body, lightened only by the unfailing +courage and cheerfulness of my companions.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to +penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold, +and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards +the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the +time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their +powers of marching could they hope +<a name="page_168"><span class="page">Page 168</span></a> +to retreat in safety from their position, and December opened with +such overcast weather that valuable time had to be spent in the +tent. During the next few days, however, good marches were made, +until on December 9 everything changed abruptly for the worse. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably bad, +that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge along +at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in view +of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should be +increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of oil, +and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of days +their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold lunch +and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently doesn't +much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the form of +a <i>hoosh</i> and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was +as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty +of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single +point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon them, +and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger there was +no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that they were +becoming 'gaunt shadows.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more +or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack. +His attitude +<a name="page_169"><span class="page">Page 169</span></a> +to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance, as though, +while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less responsible +for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion when told that +it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone, 'My poor old nose +again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time it had been brought +round a storm was blowing, and though they continued to march, +the drift was so thick that at any moment they might have walked +over the edge of a precipice—a fitting prelude to what, by +general consent, was admitted to be the most adventurous day in +their lives. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were at +first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was blowing and +high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In this predicament +Scott realized that it was both rash to go forward, as the air was +becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally rash to stop, for if they +had to spend another long spell in a blizzard camp, starvation would +soon be staring them in the face. So he asked Evans and Lashly if +they were ready to take the risk of going on, and promptly discovered +that they were. Then they marched straight for the ice disturbance, +and as the surface became smoother and the slope steeper their +sledge began to overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and +Lashly behind to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front +to guide its course, and what happened afterwards is described +most graphically in the diary of the 15th. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_170"><span class="page">Page 170</span></a> +'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward +on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown +off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time +to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced myself +to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an express +train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and we all +three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with an +ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought that +flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if he +attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to this +effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there came +a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in the +midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide smoothly +and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes leaving +it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken limbs +again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled +with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came +down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard, +wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment +or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering +what had happened. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and +in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken. +But we had by +<a name="page_171"><span class="page">Page 171</span></a> +no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one black bruise from +knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough to land once on +his back, which is bruised and very painful.... I, as the lightest, +escaped the easiest, yet before the two men crawled painfully to +their feet their first question was to ask if I had been hurt. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now to +my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance of our +own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared well-remembered +landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken ice-wall over which we +had fallen, I now recognized at once the most elevated ice cascade +of our valley.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position +was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could +not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any +other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our depôt; +it was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark. +Now in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised... +and down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Depôt +Nunatak where peace and plenty awaited us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the end, +but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken open the +biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions left, +except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager contents +of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would +<a name="page_172"><span class="page">Page 172</span></a> +allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge +and marched on towards the depôt. Before them lay a long plateau, +at the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second cascade, +and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more gradual +icy surface down to the depôt. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite +unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness to +their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought Scott +in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his right +and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid, and +Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had this +order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing and +disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from following +and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace. The sledge +flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which Scott and Evans +had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked by the jerk but +the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,' Scott says, 'I +remember absolutely nothing until I found myself dangling at the +end of my trace with blue walls on either side and a very horrid +looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged by our movements +continued to shower down on our heads. As a first step I took off +my goggles; I then discovered that Evans was hanging just above +me. I asked him if he was all right, and received a reassuring +reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_173"><span class="page">Page 173</span></a> +Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed +feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg +suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising +himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle +he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially +between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the +right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another +such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The +projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or +not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had +slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he +could pilot his feet to the bridge. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I realized +what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet over our +heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at once what a +frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask what he could +do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed companion; +for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with one hand, +his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski. At length +he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken sledge, +and so making our support more secure.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's +active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge +began to slip. The only +<a name="page_174"><span class="page">Page 174</span></a> +possible course, therefore, was for Scott and Evans to climb out +unaided, and, after a word with Evans Scott decided to try first; +though he confessed afterwards that he never expected to reach +the top. Not for a longtime had he swarmed a rope, and to do so +in thick clothing, heavy crampons, and with frost-bitten fingers +seemed to him impossible. Of the struggle that followed he remembered +little except that he got a rest when he could plant his foot in +the belt of his own harness, and again when his feet held on the +rings of the belt. 'Then came a mighty effort, till I reached the +stirrup formed by the rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering +all the strength that remained, I reached the sledge itself and +flung myself on to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and +it was perhaps then that I realized that his position had been +the worst of all.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action for +several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists, and not +until their circulation came back could he get to work. With two on +top and only one below the position, however, was very different, +and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was landed on the surface. +For a minute or two they could only stand and look at one another. +Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,' which was the first sign of +surprise he had shown. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their depôt, +and passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised, sore +and tired as they were, +<a name="page_175"><span class="page">Page 175</span></a> +Lashly sang merrily as he stirred the pot, while Scott and Evans +sat on the sledge, shifted their foot-gear, spread out their clothes +to dry, and talked cheerily about the happenings of the day. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except +to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that they +were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front of +them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their second +depôt and could look out towards the sea, they did not care +how far round they might have to walk if only that stubborn sheet +of ice had broken away. But it was too evident that their homeward +track might be as straight as they chose, as only in the far distance +was open water to be seen, and with sorrow they realized that there +must still be many miles of ice between it and the <i>Discovery</i>. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after +an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725 +miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted +the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered +1,098 miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed +heights which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the +<i>Discovery</i> Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley +on board, because all the rest of the company had gone to the north +to saw through the ice; and during the few days of rest that he +allowed himself before going to the sawing-camp, he was able to +read the reports of the +<a name="page_176"><span class="page">Page 176</span></a> +officers who had led the other journeys, and to see what excellent +work had been done during his absence. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially +to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and +Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but +throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably, +with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately +plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions +and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne +also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great +Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went +on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting +series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself +belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell +upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside +the tent while he was at work inside it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier, but +had also made a complete examination of the enormous and interesting +pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great Barrier ice-mass +with the land, and subsequently had spent much time in studying the +windless area to the south of Ross Island. Also, with Armitage and +Heald, he had made an excellent little journey, on which Armitage +obtained some very good photographs, +<a name="page_177"><span class="page">Page 177</span></a> +sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions +of the whole continent. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working +strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the +second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate +themselves that the main part of their work was done. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_178"><span class="page">Page 178</span></a> +CHAPTER X +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">RELEASE</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> + And Thor<br /> +Set his shoulder hard against the stern<br /> +To push the ship through...<br /> +...and the water gurgled in<br /> +And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd.<br /> + M. ARNOLD. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was +going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he +started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and +a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt +to free the <i>Discovery</i> were drawn up, there had been, of +course, no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations +began, and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly +the same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended +to the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There +he directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom +in Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations +in accordance with the instructions he had received. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him, +<a name="page_179"><span class="page">Page 179</span></a> +as in the middle of December the open water, instead of being up +to the islets, ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under +the circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out to +the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the middle +of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at +first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were +all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land +of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that, +apart from the labour, they were having a most enjoyable time, +though no one imagined that the work would be useful. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must be +in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much struck,' +he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully carried on +this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There could have +been no officer or man among them who did not see from the first +how utterly useless it was, and yet there has been no faltering +or complaint, simply because all have felt that, as the sailor +expresses it, "Them's the orders."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With twenty miles of ice between the <i>Discovery</i> and freedom, +the possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so +although most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans, +Handsley and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate +stock of penguins. And then Scott being unable +<a name="page_180"><span class="page">Page 180</span></a> +to do any good by remaining in the ship started off to the north +with Wilson, the former being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see +what chance there was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study +the life of that region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with +no hard marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely +way, on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water +when Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked +round, and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with +thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they +had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was to +have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating to +think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two years. +During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and the skua +gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper they took +soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran within a few +yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight. 'Then,' Scott +says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with seal kidneys; +eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was simply delicious. +I have come to the conclusion that life in the Antarctic Regions +can be very pleasant.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast +on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott, +looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond, +suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle reigned +supreme, and while they were searching for +<a name="page_181"><span class="page">Page 181</span></a> +boots and other things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why, +there's another,' and without any doubt two vessels were framed in +the doorway. It had at once been taken for granted that the first +ship was the <i>Morning</i>, but what in the name of fortune was +the meaning of the other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine. +The easiest and quickest way to find out was to go straight on +board, for the ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles +to the westward, but if they had followed this simple plan their +companions on the <i>Discovery</i> would have known nothing about +it, and would have been compelled to wait for their mails. So they +started southward to find the penguin hunters, and then to send +them to establish communications with the ship. For a long time +no sight of the men could be seen, but after traveling about six +miles Scott and Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of +life about it; indeed they were within a hundred yards before in +answer to their shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still +munching the remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought +they had not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained, +they didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the +matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't +you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would be +all right." In other words, they as good as said that life was so +extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible object in +worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief expedition.' +When, however, they +<a name="page_182"><span class="page">Page 182</span></a> +had got their orders they were off at once, and Scott and Wilson went +back to the ships and soon found out from Colbeck why the <i>Terra +Nova</i> had accompanied the <i>Morning</i>, and how strangely the +aspect of affairs had altered. Writing in his diary on that night +Scott says, 'I can only record that in spite of the good home news, +and in spite of the pleasure of seeing old friends again, I was +happier last night than I am to-night.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of +one were these. Scott's report taken by the <i>Morning</i> had left +the strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to +the south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to +meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time enough +to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities of the +case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the Societies +to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually the latter +agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief expedition, +provided that the <i>Morning</i>, as she stood, was delivered over +to them. The Government naturally placed the management of affairs in +the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the responsibility +it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order that there should +be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Terra Nova</i>, one of the finest of the whaling ships, +was bought, and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry +MacKay, was engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November +1903 she layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in +<a name="page_183"><span class="page">Page 183</span></a> +December she was joined by the <i>Morning</i>, Captain Colbeck +being directed to take charge of this joint venture until both ships +could come under Scott's command. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships +arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was +not, however, the arrival of the <i>Terra Nova</i>, whose captain +from the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another +matter that made Scott so sad—and naturally sad—at +this time. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation +had formed the opinion that the <i>Discovery</i> was stuck fast +in the ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion +or not is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty +to see that the expense of another relief expedition should be +avoided. Consequently there was no other course open to them except +to tell Scott to abandon the <i>Discovery</i>, if she could not +be freed in time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But +necessary as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions +in a very cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a +sailor would go through much rather than abandon his ship, but +the ties which bound Scott and his company to the <i>Discovery</i> +were very far beyond the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth +of sentiment not in the least surprising when their associations +with her are remembered. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving +her had never entered their heads. +<a name="page_184"><span class="page">Page 184</span></a> +Some time she would be free again, and even if they had to spend +a third winter in her they had determined to go through with it, +and make themselves as comfortable as possible. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were +rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that unless +a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks, they must bid +a long farewell to their beloved ship and return to their homes +as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief ships there fell +the first and last cloud of gloom which was ever allowed on board +the <i>Discovery</i>. And as day followed day with no improvement +in the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until anyone might easily +have imagined that an Antarctic expedition was a most dismal affair. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and +this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I told +them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence. I have +not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten miles +to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged to notify +any changes in the ice, but day after day the only signal was 'No +change in the ice conditions.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something that +did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and instruments +should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever the future +held in +<a name="page_185"><span class="page">Page 185</span></a> +store he saw no reason why this should not be done, and to have +anything at all to do during this trying time was a blessing; though +he had by no means given up hope that the Discovery would be freed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After a long spell at Cape Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship +on the night of the 21st with news that was all the more welcome at +such an anxious time. Strolling over the beach one day to inspect +what he thought was a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was +quite different from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to +the camp for his gun. Two of the <i>Morning</i> officers were in +camp with him, and all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange +new beast. Their great fear was that they might only succeed in +wounding it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite +of the temperature of the water they waded round it before they +attacked. These tactics were successful, but their quarry when +dispatched was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to +examine where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came +over in the <i>Morning</i>, and with the aid of boats and ropes the +carcass was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion +that the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie +Island, but never before seen within the Antarctic circle. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces +broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships were +four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight before. But, +<a name="page_186"><span class="page">Page 186</span></a> +if the conditions were to be as they had been two years before, +thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in fifteen days, +a far more rapid rate than it had been going during the previous +fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of real promise +occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway very slightly under +the action of a long swell, its edge against the land rising and +falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all very restless, constantly +dashing up the hill to the lookout station or wandering from place +to place to observe the effects of the swell. But it is long since +we enjoyed such a cheerful experience as we get on watching the +loose pieces of ice jostling one another at Hut Point.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February arrived +and brought the best of news with it. During the day nothing unusual +happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner that the excitement +began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and a voice sang out down +the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut +Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking +up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not +thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than +a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and +carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was +hurrying away to the north-west. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight; +<a name="page_187"><span class="page">Page 187</span></a> +the sun was low behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front +was intensely white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking +leads looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a +sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of this +peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that great +ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the +relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the +first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company +of spectators had clustered; although the little <i>Morning</i>, +with her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to +hold her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten +those on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships +crashed into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild +excitement they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly +heard. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener +and keener. On came the <i>Terra Nova</i>, but in spite of all +her mighty efforts the persistent little <i>Morning</i>, dodging +right and left and seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at +her side, and still seemed to have a chance of winning the race. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments, +stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then a burst +of frenzied cheering broke out. It +<a name="page_188"><span class="page">Page 188</span></a> +seemed to us almost too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all +the thick ice had vanished, and there remained only the thin area +of decayed floe which has lately made the approach to the ships so +dangerous; a few minutes later the <i>Terra Nova</i> forged ahead +and came crashing into the open, to be followed almost immediately +by her stout little companion, and soon both ships were firmly +anchored to all that remains of the <i>Discovery's</i> prison, the +wedge that still holds in our small bay.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost side +by side; a rope from the <i>Terra Nova</i> is actually secured to +the <i>Discovery</i>. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly +not we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was cracked +in many places, and would doubtless have departed of its own accord +in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to get away, decided +to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently at 1 A.M. on February +16 there was an explosion which shook the whole bay, and rudely +disturbed not only the ice but also the slumbers of those who were +not members of the explosion party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and when +all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a thunderous +report which shook the ship throughout, and then all was calm again. +For a brief moment one might have imagined that nothing had happened, +but then one saw that each +<a name="page_189"><span class="page">Page 189</span></a> +crack was slowly widening; presently there came the gurgle of water +as it was sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute +there was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the +keel was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the +great mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our +good ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors +with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was that +the <i>Discovery</i> came to her own again—the right to ride +the high seas.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or +happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation +they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after such +a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard work lay +in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder of their +program. If the <i>Discovery</i> was free before the navigable season +closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time in exploring +the region to the westward of Cape North, but now after two years' +imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme. Directly the relief +ships had arrived he had asked them for as great a quantity as +possible, but although the replies had at first been satisfactory, +a long month's fight with wind and ice had sadly reduced the amount +they could afford to give. The only thing to do was to get without +any delay what could be spared, and on the afternoon of the 16th +the <i>Terra Nova</i> came alongside to hand over her supply. 'The +afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully calm and +<a name="page_190"><span class="page">Page 190</span></a> +bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on the termination +of our long and successful struggle with the ice.... We little +guessed what lay before us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved inscription +to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit of Hut Point, +and on the following day the small company landed together and +stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott read some short +prayers. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled back +to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to their shipmate, +but weather of this kind had been too common to attract attention. +On that night Captain MacKay was dining in the <i>Discovery</i> for +the first time, and a great effort had been made to show him how +good an Antarctic feast could be. In the middle of dinner, however, +word came down to Scott that the wind had sprung up, and although +he expected nothing serious he went up to see what was happening. +Then he saw they were in for a stiff blow, and reluctantly had to +inform his guests of the fact. One glance at the sky satisfied +MacKay, who was over the rail like a shot, and in a few minutes +the <i>Terra Nova</i> was steaming for the open and lost in the +drift.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig011.jpg" width="870" height="550" + alt="Figure 11"> +<br />THE 'TERRA NOVA' LEAVING THE ANTARCTIC. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did not +altogether like the look of things and determined to get up steam as +soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the engine-room +after such a long period of disuse. But early in the morning +<a name="page_191"><span class="page">Page 191</span></a> +of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and the +<i>Discovery</i> began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming +manner. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in +spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I watched +anxiously to see if the ship dragged. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in half +an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot astern +and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first, the +steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant situation, +as the distance grew shorter every minute, until the spray of the +breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was soon followed by +a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice. We rebounded and +struck again, and our head was just beginning to falloff and the +ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what would have happened +then) when steam was announced.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone +would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once around +Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open sea before +them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter of a mile out, +though off the end there was a shallow patch which had to be cleared +before safety could be reached. So finding that no headway was +being made he began to edge out towards the Point, and all seemed +well until, nearly opposite to the Point itself, he saw to his +alarm that a strong current was sweeping past. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_192"><span class="page">Page 192</span></a> +'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm +over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the +fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant +after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with +our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead +to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to +set us faster ashore. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that followed +were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each moment the +ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her from stem +to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly that, strong +as was her build, she could not long survive such awful blows.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and +crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be +done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility +of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next best +thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather moderated. +Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could rely on the +support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton already had +made a list of weights by the removal of which the ship could be +lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned to discuss the manner +in which the anchors could be laid out he also had his scheme cut +and dried. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after +<a name="page_193"><span class="page">Page 193</span></a> +they assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the +<i>Discovery</i>. But when they were half-way through this silent +meal Mulock, the officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said, +'The ship's working astern, sir.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both wind +and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But what +surprised him even more was that the current, which had been running +strongly to the north, had turned and was running with equal speed +to the south. Each time that the ship lifted on a wave she worked +two or three inches astern, and though she was still grinding heavily +she no longer struck the bottom with such terrific force. Scarcely, +however, had these facts been observed when Skelton rushed up to +say that the inlets were free again. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together +and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs +were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve, and +the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or two +the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady grating +under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and ceased as +the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water.... Rarely, +if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable plight as +ours to find herself free and safe within the space of an hour.... +To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws fourteen feet cannot +be a pleasant position—nor can there be a doubt +<a name="page_194"><span class="page">Page 194</span></a> +that the shocks which the <i>Discovery</i> sustained would have +very seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short +time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the +18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the +southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided +to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and +complete the coaling operations. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent, +no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as a +sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists, +lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working +with all their might on the coaling whips. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Morning</i> handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this +was all the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the +narrowest margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward +without joining in any attempt at further exploration. 'His practical +common sense told him he could be of little use to us, and with his +usual loyalty he never hesitated to act for the best, at whatever +sacrifice to his own hopes and wishes.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged that +the three ships should journey up the coast together and then separate, +the <i>Morning</i> proceeding to the north, while the <i>Discovery</i> +and the <i>Terra Nova</i> turned west. The companies of both relief +<a name="page_195"><span class="page">Page 195</span></a> +ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the +<i>Discovery</i> when she entered her first civilized port; so +Scott fixed upon Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot +at which they might meet before the final return to New Zealand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +February 20 saw the <i>Discovery</i> speeding along a stretch of +coast that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously +made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged +to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now +gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than +this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking +innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally +indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery +to his sketch-book. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the +engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end; and on +the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On inspection +Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely shattered, +and was held together by little more than its weight; as the tiller +was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but with a lag of +many degrees, so that the connection between the two was evidently +insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that they could not +hope to weather a gale without losing all control over the ship, +and that no time was to be lost in shipping their spare rudder +in place of the damaged one. So Scott determined to seek shelter +in Robertson +<a name="page_196"><span class="page">Page 196</span></a> +Bay, and by night the damaged rudder had been hoisted on deck and +the spare one prepared for lowering into its place. Since the +<i>Discovery</i> had left winter quarters an almost incredible +amount of work had been done to bring her into sea trim. Difficulty +after difficulty had arisen, but the energy of the company had +never slackened, and by February 25 Scott was able to say that +everything was once more in order, though he was a little doubtful +about the steering power of their spare rudder. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At this time it was all the more important that the ship should +give no further trouble, because according to their program they +were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite +enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With high +hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the point +reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned to the +west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice, however, was +destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their advance, and on +the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east and try to find a +way around this formidable barrier. 'It is grievously disappointing +to find the pack so far to the east; Ross carried the open water +almost to Cape North.' And again on March 1, Scott sounds a note +of lamentation: 'There can be no doubt that since leaving Victoria +Land we have been skirting a continuous mass of pack, which must +cover the whole sea south of the Balleny Islands. That it should +have lain so far to the eastward this year is very annoying; +<a name="page_197"><span class="page">Page 197</span></a> +however, if we can push on upon this course we ought to strike the +islands.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and +by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others +that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them +considerably, and not until some time later was the problem solved. +In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this region, and +three years later Ross saw land which he imagined was to the southward +of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it to be divided into three +distinct masses named it the Russell Islands. Consequently Scott +arrived expecting to see two groups of islands, and was naturally +perplexed when only one group was to be seen. After, however, studying +the accounts of these islands and comparing them with what he could +actually see, he recognized that they had just passed Balleny's +Sturge Island, which Balleny had seen from the north, and so could +have had no idea of its length in a north-and-south line. Later +Ross must have seen this same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite +possible, from a great distance must have thought that it was divided +into three, and hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate +group. Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings +to fix accurately the position of each island. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny +Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes +claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige +of it could they +<a name="page_198"><span class="page">Page 198</span></a> +see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that Wilkes Land was +once and for all definitely disposed of. With this negative, but +nevertheless important, result, the exploring work ended, and although +a lack of coal had prevented their cherished plan of rounding Cape +North, they had at least the satisfaction of clearing up some +geographical misconceptions in a more northerly latitude. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of +greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on board +the <i>Discovery</i>, for she was in very light trim and tossed +about the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the +greatest relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross Harbour +on the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Neither the <i>Terra Nova</i> nor the <i>Morning</i> had yet arrived, +and the days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart +as possible before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus, +in a few days, the <i>Discovery</i> looked as though she had spent +her adventurous years in some peaceful harbor. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On March 19 the <i>Terra Nova</i> hove in sight, and was followed +on the next day by the <i>Morning</i>. Both ships had experienced +the most terrible weather, and everyone on board the little +<i>Morning</i> declared that she had only been saved from disaster +by the consummate seamanship of Captain Colbeck. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most +favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1 +<a name="page_199"><span class="page">Page 199</span></a> +off the Heads of Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely +berthed alongside the jetty, from which they had sailed with such +hearty wishes more than two years before. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered +on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can +never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express +our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that +could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full +months before we set out on our last long voyage.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later they +anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they replenished +their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic observations +in connection with their Southern Survey. And from the Falkland +Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another testimony of +the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The praise,' he wrote, +'for whatever success we have had is really due to the ship's company +as a whole rather than to individuals. That is not very clear, +perhaps; what I mean is that the combination of individual effort +for the common good has achieved our results, and the absence of +any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout has been "share +and share alike," and its most practical form lies, perhaps, in the +fact that throughout our three years there has been no distinction +between the food served to officers and men. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_200"><span class="page">Page 200</span></a> +'Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no +greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so +loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic, +for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition +of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted, and +for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to welcome +and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy of their +return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought that the +end had come to those ties, which had held together the small band of +the <i>Discovery</i> in the closest companionship and most unswerving +loyalty. +</p> + +<h2> +<a name="page_201"><span class="page">Page 201</span></a> +THE LAST EXPEDITION +</h2> + +<h3> +<a name="page_203"><span class="page">Page 203</span></a> +PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION' +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle"> +By Sir CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer, +able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors, +and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility +to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living +could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic +Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object +was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott +entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence +and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the +history of Arctic traveling, combined with experience of different +conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and +founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings +along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the +discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination +of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains—a +range of great height and many hundreds +<a name="page_204"><span class="page">Page 204</span></a> +of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a distance +out at sea—and above all the discovery of the great ice cap +on which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable +Polar journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff +worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being +recorded in twelve large quarto volumes. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his +beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work. +The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of +battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that +five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific, +to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It +was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely +equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the Polar +regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these +shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement +of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study, of +physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before +composed the staff of a Polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's +objects were strictly scientific, including the completion and +extension of his former discoveries. The results will be explained +in the second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive +and important. Never before, in the +<a name="page_205"><span class="page">Page 205</span></a> +Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal observations +been taken, in one locality, during five years. It was also part +of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by a long and most +arduous journey, but here again his intention was, if possible, +to achieve scientific results on the way, especially hoping to +discover fossils which would throw light on the former history of +the great range of mountains which he had made known to science. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The principal aim of this great man—for he rightly has his +niche among the Polar <i>Dii Majores</i>—was the advancement +of knowledge. From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable +men of our time, and the vast number of readers of his journal +will be deeply impressed with the beauty of his character. The +chief traits which shone forth through his life were conspicuous in +the hour of death. There are few events in history to be compared, +for grandeur and pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent +wilderness of snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his dearest +friends beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil dropped from +his dying grasp. There was no thought of himself, only the earnest +desire to give comfort and consolation to others in their sorrow. +His very last lines were written lest he who induced him to enter +upon Antarctic work should now feel regret for what he had done. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of +him, and never regretted his putting me in command of the +<i>Discovery</i>.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_206"><span class="page">Page 206</span></a> +The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain +Scott between 1905 and 1910: +</p> + +<table class="center"> + <tr><td valign="top">January to July, 1906</td> + <td>Admiralty (Assistant Director of Naval Intelligence.)</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top"> + Aug. 21, 1906, to Jan. 1, 1907</td> + <td><i>Victorious</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Egerton, + Rear-Admiral in the Atlantic Fleet).</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top"> + Jan. 2, 1907, to Aug. 24, 1907</td> + <td><i>Albermarle</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Egerton, + Rear-Admiral in the Atlantic Fleet).</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top"> + Aug. 25, 1907, to Jan. 24, 1908</td> + <td>Not actively employed afloat between these dates.</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top"> + Jan. 25, 1908, to May 29, 1908</td> + <td><i>Essex</i> (Captain).</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top"> + May 30, 1908, to March 23, 1909</td> + <td><i>Bulwark</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Colville, + Rear-Admiral the Nore Division, Home Fleet).</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="indent"> +Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed +to H.M.S. <i>President</i> for British Antarctic Expedition June +1, 1910. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_207"><span class="page">Page 207</span></a> +On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was +married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter +Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for the +British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his appeal +resulted in £10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund. Then +the Government made a grant of £20,000, and grants followed +from the Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made to +purchase the steamship <i>Terra Nova</i>, the largest and strongest +of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing +was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged +upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave +Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott +from leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he +sailed in the <i>Saxon</i> to South Africa, and there awaited the +arrival of the <i>Terra Nova</i>. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_208"><span class="page">Page 208</span></a> +BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910 +</h3> + +<table border="0"> + <tr><td colspan="3">SHORE PARTIES</td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Officers</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td style="width: 2em;"> </td> + <th>Name</th><th>Rank, &c.</th></tr> + + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Robert Falcon Scott</td> + <td><i>Captain, C.V.O., R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edward R. G. R. Evans</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Victor L. A. Campbell</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List)</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Henry R. Bowers</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.I.M.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Lawrence E. G. Oates</td> + <td><i>Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>G. Murray Levick</td> + <td><i>Surgeon, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edward L. Atkinson</td> + <td><i>Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist.</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Scientific Staff</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edward Adrian Wilson</td> + <td><i>B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the Scientific Staff, + and Zoologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>George C. Simpson</td> + <td><i>D.Sc., Meteorologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>T. Griffith Taylor</td> + <td><i>B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edward W. Nelson</td> + <td><i>Biologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Frank Debenham</td> + <td><i>B.A., B.Sc., Geologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Charles S. Wright</td> + <td><i>B.A., Physicist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Raymond E. Priestley</td> + <td><i>Geologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Herbert G. Ponting</td> + <td><i>F.R.G.S, Camera Artist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Cecil H. Meares</td> + <td><i>In Charge of Dogs.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Bernard C. Day</td> + <td><i>Motor Engineer.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Apsley Cherry-Garrard</td> + <td><i>B.A., Asst. Zoologist.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Tryggve Gran</td> + <td><i>Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., B.A., Ski Expert.</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> +<a name="page_209"><span class="page">Page 209</span></a> + <i>Men</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td> </td> + <td>W. Lashly</td> + <td><i>Chief Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>W. W. Archer</td> + <td><i>Chief Steward, late R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Thomas Clissold</td> + <td><i>Cook, late R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edgar Evans</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Robert Forde</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Thomas Crean</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Thomas S. Williamson</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Patrick Keohane</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>George P. Abbott</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Frank V. Browning</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Harry Dickason</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>F. J. Hooper</td> + <td><i>Steward, late R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Anton Omelchenko</td> + <td><i>Groom.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Demetri Gerof</td> + <td><i>Dog Driver.</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3">SHIP'S PARTY</td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Officers, &c.</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Harry L. L. Pennell</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Henry E. de P. Rennick</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Wilfred M. Bruce</td> + <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.R.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Francis R. H. Drake</td> + <td><i>Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired), Secretary and + Meteorologist in Ship.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Denis G. Lillie</td> + <td><i>M.A., Biologist in Ship.</i></td></tr> + + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + + <tr><td> </td> + <td>James R. Dennistoun</td> + <td><i>In Charge of Mules in Ship.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Alfred B. Cheetham</td> + <td><i>R.N.R., Boatswain.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William Williams</td> + <td><i>Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N., 2nd Engineer.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William A. Horton</td> + <td><i>Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Francis E. C. Davies</td> + <td><i>Leading Shipwright, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Frederick Parsons</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William L. Heald</td> + <td><i>Late P.O., R.N.</i> +<a name="page_210"><span class="page">Page 210</span></a> + </td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Arthur S. Bailey</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Albert Balson</td> + <td><i>Leading Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Joseph Leese</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>John Hugh Mather</td> + <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.V.R.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Robert Oliphant</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Thomas F. McLeod</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Mortimer McCarthy</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William Knowles</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Charles Williams</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>James Skelton</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William McDonald</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>James Paton</td> + <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Robert Brissenden</td> + <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Edward A. McKenzie</td> + <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>William Burton</td> + <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Bernard J. Stone</td> + <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Angus McDonald</td> + <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Thomas McGillon</td> + <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Charles Lammas</td> + <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>W. H. Neale</td> + <td><i>Steward.</i></td></tr> + +</table> + +<h3> +<a name="page_211"><span class="page">Page 211</span></a> +CHAPTER I +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THROUGH STORMY SEAS</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +The ice was here, the ice was there,<br /> +The ice was all around:<br /> +It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,<br /> +Like noises in a swound.—COLERIDGE. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic +expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The +selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers +was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the +applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of +the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to +the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer +exists in the British race. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On June 15, 1910, the <i>Terra Nova</i> left Cardiff upon her great +mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28, at +Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done before +she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual the kindness +received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A month of strenuous labour followed, and then, on +<a name="page_212"><span class="page">Page 212</span></a> +November 26, they said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling +at Port Chalmers set out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage +of their voyage. Two days later they encountered a stiff wind from +the N. W. and a confused sea. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the +circumstances. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can +devise—and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close +side by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together and +groom between—swaying, swaying continually to the plunging, +irregular motion.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four +more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very +large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4. +A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space +hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were +so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they +were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was +contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases, +which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the poop +and abreast the motor sledges. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley +forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of +coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between +the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three +dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although +<a name="page_213"><span class="page">Page 213</span></a> +they were given as much protection as possible, their position +was far from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion, +'a picture of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for +these poor creatures.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and +very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water over +the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break loose on +the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by the loose +coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and swung against +the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering rams, no lashings +could possibly have withstood them, and so the only remedy was to +set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and re-lash the cases. +During this difficult and dangerous task seas continually broke +over the men, and at such times they had to cling for dear life to +some fixture to prevent themselves from being washed overboard. No +sooner was some appearance of order restored than another unusually +heavy wave tore away the lashings, and the work had to be done +allover again. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the +ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail +and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night, reports +came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their legs. But +worse news was to follow, for in the early morning news came from +the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and that the water had +risen over the gratings. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_214"><span class="page">Page 214</span></a> +From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center +of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained. +Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck +gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with donkey +engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water might be +got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes of pumping +invariably led to the same result—a general choking of the +pumps. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger of +becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have happened. +The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble and its suction +could not be reached, for as the water crept higher it got in contact +with the boiler and eventually became so hot that no one could work +at the suctions. A great struggle to conquer these misfortunes +followed, but Williams had at last to confess that he was beaten +and must draw fires. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black. +The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop, +a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of +the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on +the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead. +It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the lee +rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging to the +main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which swept +aft and high on the poop. On one +<a name="page_215"><span class="page">Page 215</span></a> +occasion I was waist deep when standing on the rail of the poop.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +All that could be done for the time being was to organize the afterguard +to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on the choked +hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt to bale out +the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets was passed +up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous work was +going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never for a moment +lost their good spirits. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the +pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room +bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the +coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared +the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which +were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came from +the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had been +overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the engine-room, +and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties were able +to stop their labours. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they might +easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks of the +ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five gallons +of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost. Another +dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke and he +disappeared, but the next wave miraculously +<a name="page_216"><span class="page">Page 216</span></a> +washed him back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again, +but anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching +heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these long-suffering +animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest, and Scott's earnest +prayer was that there might be no more gales. 'December ought to +be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always has been, and just now +conditions point to fine weather. Well, we must be prepared for +anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about these animals of ours.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things +straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck +and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition to +fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December +6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two +days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze +and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater +than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the +effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that +they were almost constantly wet. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed, +the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress +was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they +advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to appear. +Yet, after the rough weather they had +<a name="page_217"><span class="page">Page 217</span></a> +been having, the calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived +before it was expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort +afforded to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the +human element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise +in spite of the imminence of delay.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal was +going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put out the +fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all the evidence +of former voyages had been examined so that the best meridian to +go south on might be chosen, and the conclusion arrived at was +that the 178 W. was the best. They entered the pack more or less +on this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting worse conditions +than any ship had ever experienced—worse, indeed, than Scott +imagined to be possible on any meridian which they might have chosen. +But as very little was known about the movements of the pack the +difficulties of making a choice may very easily be imagined, and, +in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that the 178 W. was +the best meridian did not change. 'The situation of the main bodies +of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with which the floes are +packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing winds. One cannot +tell what winds have prevailed before one's arrival; therefore one +cannot know much about the situation or density. Within limits +the density is changing from day to day and even from hour to hour; +such changes depend on the wind, but it may not necessarily be a +local wind, +<a name="page_218"><span class="page">Page 218</span></a> +so that at times they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes +pressing closely against one another at a given time, and an hour +or two afterwards a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each. +When the floes are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes +impossible to force a way through, but when there is release of +pressure the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag +path.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at +10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and +got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything +as good as this life. The novelty, interest, colour, animal life, +and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at +present,' one of the company wrote on that same day—an abundant +proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with +them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to +progress—on the Monday—with much bumping and occasional +stoppages, but on the following day they were again firmly and +tightly wedged in the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty +of the experience prevented any sense of impatience, though to +Scott the strain of waiting and wondering what he ought to do as +regards the question of coal was bound to be heavy. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours +of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of the +fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations were +also constantly +<a name="page_219"><span class="page">Page 219</span></a> +taken, while Wilson painted some delightful pictures and Ponting +took a number of beautiful photographs of the pack and bergs. But +as day followed day and hopes of progress were not realized, Scott, +anxious to be free, decided on Monday, December 19, to push west. +'Anything to get out of these terribly heavy floes. Great patience +is the only panacea for our ill case. It is bad luck.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be +reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around them. +And what to do under the circumstances called for most difficult +decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead loss of two +tons of coal when the boilers were again heated. But these two +tons only covered a day under banked fires, so that for anything +longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving to put out the fires. +Thus at each stoppage Scott was called upon to decide how long it +was likely to last. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but +although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry +evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the table +and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute two songs +to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising circumstance,' +Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should be so keen +on singing.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect +of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being +that everyone was +<a name="page_220"><span class="page">Page 220</span></a> +prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite regardless of the +results of his labours. But on Wednesday, December 28, the ponies, +despite the unremitting care and attention that Oates gave to them, +were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These animals are now the great +consideration, balanced as they are against the coal expenditure.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many of +the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared to +be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott decided +to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once more in the +open sea. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during +this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one +tons[1] of coal had been used, an average of six miles to the ton, +and although these were not pleasant figures to contemplate, Scott +considered that under the exceptional conditions they might easily +have been worse. For the ship herself he had nothing but praise to +give. 'No other ship, not even the <i>Discovery</i>, would have +come through so well.... As a result I have grown strangely attached +to the <i>Terra Nova</i>. As she bumped the floes with mighty shocks, +crushing and grinding her way through some, twisting and turning +to avoid others, she seemed like a living thing fighting a great +fight. If only she had more economical engines she would be suitable +in all respects.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: When the <i>Terra Nova</i> left Lyttelton she had 460 +tons of coal on board.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_221"><span class="page">Page 221</span></a> +Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many +of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their own +specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those who +had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find any +kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to help +everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has been heard +on board. The inner life of our small community is very pleasant +to think upon, and very wonderful considering the extremely small +space in which we are confined. The attitude of the men is equally +worthy of admiration. In the forecastle as in the wardroom there is +a rush to be first when work is to be done, and the same desire to +sacrifice selfish consideration to the success of the expedition. +It is very good to be able to write in such high praise of one's +companions, and I feel that the possession of such support ought +to ensure success. Fortune would be in a hard mood indeed if it +allowed such a combination of knowledge, experience, ability, and +enthusiasm to achieve nothing.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their +favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern blizzard +met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind and sea +increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at 6 A.M. ice +was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe course would +have been to go about and stand to the east, but on this occasion +<a name="page_222"><span class="page">Page 222</span></a> +Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble if he could get the +ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed a stream of ice over +which the sea was breaking heavily, and the danger of being among +loose floes in such a sea was acutely realized. But presently they +came to a more compact body of floes, and running behind this they +were agreeably surprised to find themselves in comparatively smooth +water. There they lay to in a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous +position had achieved one that was safe as long as their temporary +shelter lasted. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As the day passed their protection, though still saving them from +the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean to +depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At +10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but +splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in +sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous—the latter +from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark +as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it. I +believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty miles +farther—such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress +was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached +the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage +they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station +at this Cape, and the prospect had +<a name="page_223"><span class="page">Page 223</span></a> +seemed to become increasingly fascinating the more they talked of it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the whale +boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor, Priestley, +and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore, they discovered +that the swell made it impossible for them to land. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied +us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting +and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of +development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant, but +fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of this +incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out of the +question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me, for there, +about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the old bay ice +about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin chick was standing +disconsolately stranded, and close by stood one faithful old Emperor +parent asleep. This young Emperor was still in the down, a most +interesting fact in the bird's life history at which we had rightly +guessed, but which no one had actually observed before.... This +bird would have been a treasure to me, but we could not risk life +for it, so it had to remain where it was.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their +station at Cape Crozier, and this +<a name="page_224"><span class="page">Page 224</span></a> +was all the harder to bear because every detail of the shore promised +well for a wintering party. There were comfortable quarters for the +hut, ice for water snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing, +proximity to the Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins, +good ground for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the +Southern Road with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It +is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a spot.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The <i>Discovery's</i> post-office was still standing as erect as +when it had been planted, and comparisons between what was before +their eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed +to have occurred anywhere—a result that in the case of the +Barrier caused very great surprise. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey, +the program of which was: +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Bruce continually checking speed with hand log. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.<br /> +Nelson noting results. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.<br /> +Cherry-Garrard noting results. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.<br /> +Atkinson noting results. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.<br /> +Wright noting results. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.<br /> +Drake noting results. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_225"><span class="page">Page 225</span></a> +'We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to +the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed +since <i>Discovery</i> days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff +in the same place.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came +in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was +good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this +side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such a +familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place for +winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the Barrier, +and a cape, which in the <i>Discovery</i> days had been called 'the +Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old <i>Discovery</i> +quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue, +and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in +the season, and that when they froze over again the ice would soon +become firm.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw, +as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering +station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest +and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most +favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which +was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication +being established at an early date with Cape Armitage.[1] Not a +moment was wasted, and while Scott was +<a name="page_226"><span class="page">Page 226</span></a> +on shore Campbell took the first steps towards landing the stores. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further, +on one of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the <i>Discovery</i> +hut.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the landing +began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors were soon +hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and the tons of +sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories +appeared to be in perfect condition. Then came the turn of the +ponies, and although it was difficult to make some of them enter +the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion and got most of them in +by persuasion, while the ones which refused to be persuaded were +simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all are thin and some +few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the evident +vitality which they still possessed—some were even skittish. +I cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely +picketed on the floe.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning, and +ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The chief +trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins, +the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the proceedings and +a total disregard for their own safety, with the result that a +number of them were killed in spite of innumerable efforts to teach +the penguins to keep out of reach, they only squawked and ducked +as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass? +Let us alone.' These incidents naturally demoralized the dogs and +annoyed Meares, who +<a name="page_227"><span class="page">Page 227</span></a> +while trying to stop one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs +and was carried along until they reached the penguins of their +desire. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing one +and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success, but +they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the site +for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped on +shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days. Nearly +all the timber, &c., for the hut and a supply of food for both +ponies and dogs had also been landed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Despite this most strenuous day's labour, all hands were up again +at 5 A.M. on Thursday. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works +and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the +scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary +scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting +the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived +rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly +appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard +weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious +danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern +rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this. +I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales with +this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting, who was +standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and ran +<a name="page_228"><span class="page">Page 228</span></a> +towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts, which +had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole floe under +him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. One could hear +the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the ice and struck +it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the ice, setting +it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and was able +to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance also, the splits +had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of them +fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared our +astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads shot +vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made... +There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see what had happened +to Ponting and the dogs.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually skirt +the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up anyone +who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts +that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were +able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2 feet), and +that they could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear +that they are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future +we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they +might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble +had been taken to obtain +<a name="page_229"><span class="page">Page 229</span></a> +the most suitable material for Polar work, and the three motor +sledge tractors were the outcome of experiments made at Lantaret in +France and at Lillehammer and Fefor in Norway, with sledges built +by the Wolseley Motor Company from suggestions offered principally +by B. T. Hamilton, R. W. Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted +objection to cruelty in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and +almost pathetic, desire that these sledges should be successful; +over and over again he expressed his hopes and fears of them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard, +the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the +only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the +cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the +necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday the +third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott, leaving +Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started for the +shore with a single man load. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that +it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the +ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the +machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through; and +while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was seen to +give, and slowly the machine went right through and disappeared. +The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the rope, but it +cut through the ice towards them with an increasing strain, +<a name="page_230"><span class="page">Page 230</span></a> +and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half a minute +later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the two best +motors was lying at the bottom of the sea. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was clear +that those who were on shore were practically cut off from the +ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to the +north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near +ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to +Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way along +the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again the +work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In this +Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single case +he did not know nor a single article on which he could not at once +place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was checked +by him. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound, +the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of +Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on +board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last +we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We +are LANDED eight days after our arrival—a very good record.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_231"><span class="page">Page 231</span></a> +CHAPTER II +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">DEPÔT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +And the deed of high endeavour<br /> + Was no more to the favoured few.<br /> +But brain and heart were the measure<br /> + Of what every man might do.<br /> + RENNELL RODD. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +While the landing was being carried out, the building party had +worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could +have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small +party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to +serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the +cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable +quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and +Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott +could begin to think about the depôt journey. The arrangements +of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation +he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once, +and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal: +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_232"><span class="page">Page 232</span></a> +'He (Scott) wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie +Evans, and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice +of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men. +It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it +is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead +of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate.... +About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so +many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my +own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice +towards the end and a most keen competition—<i>and</i> a +universal lack of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete +absence of any jealous feeling in any single one of any of the +comparatively large number who at present stand a chance of being +on the last piece next summer.... I have never been thrown in with +a more unselfish lot of men—each one doing his utmost fair +and square in the most cheery manner possible.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10 +A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott +read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but +unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not +fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the two +allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior animals. At +this time the party to be led by Campbell was known as the Eastern +Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing on King +<a name="page_233"><span class="page">Page 233</span></a> +Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north part of +Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern Party. +Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is evident, but +in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it like the gentleman +he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine +dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started +to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old <i>Discovery</i> +hut, a most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin +they found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the hut +for shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such +a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old +comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I +went to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression +of civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this +should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and +finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate +predecessors oppressed me horribly.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found +much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely +cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost +bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and +on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare +<a name="page_234"><span class="page">Page 234</span></a> +tableland. The paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible +on the cross put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if +it had just been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down +it could with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in +the afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans, +and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is +really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest +that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and +roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation on +both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings weighs +six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore and the +result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst the total +weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the time and attention +given to its planning. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain spare +clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a solid stable +to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present these animals +are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow close by, above +them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the dogs extend in other +long lines. Behind them again is a most convenient slab of hard +ice in which we have dug two caverns. The first is a larder now +fully stocked with seals, penguins, mutton, and beef. The other +is devoted to science in the shape of differential magnetic +<a name="page_235"><span class="page">Page 235</span></a> +instruments which will keep a constant photographic record of magnetic +changes. Outside these caverns is another little hut for absolute +magnetic observations, and above them on a small hill, the dominant +miniature peak of the immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological +instruments and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill on +a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases +ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the ice-foot +below, you will have some idea of our immediate vicinity. As for +our wider surroundings it would be difficult to describe their +beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape Evans is one of the +many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands closest under the +mountain, so that always towering above us we have the grand snowy +peak with its smoking summit. North and south of us are deep bays, +beyond which great glaciers come rippling over the lower slopes +to thrust high blue-walled snouts into the sea. The sea is blue +before us, dotted with shining bergs or ice floes, whilst far over +the Sound, yet so bold and magnificent as to appear near, stand +the beautiful Western Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks, +their deep glacial valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain +scenery that can have few rivals. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the +most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and most +of the night +<a name="page_236"><span class="page">Page 236</span></a> +in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera and cinematograph. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of +its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity +of the mansion. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9) +the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of cases +containing things which suffer from being frozen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and next it +on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his instruments, and +on the other a space devoted to charts, chronometers and instruments +generally. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans +have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five +beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and +Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space +opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a +bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space +set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a 12-foot +table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely +comfortable and conveniently placed for his work—in fact +we could not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will +have a small enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home. +We shall be away sledding late this year and off again +<a name="page_237"><span class="page">Page 237</span></a> +early next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that +such comfort awaits our return.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound they +had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon their +depôt journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly +from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however, +required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect +of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated +a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding +gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers, +sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the +stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality. 'Our +clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running through +the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride that there +is not a single arrangement which I would have had altered.... +Everything looks hopeful for the depôt journey if only we can +get our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a serious +suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report that the +<i>Terra Nova</i> was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape, +saw at once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable +position. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in +his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of +him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete +disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one +<a name="page_238"><span class="page">Page 238</span></a> +consolation in determining that, whatever happened, nothing should +interfere with the southern work. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of +the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she +struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously +from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no +ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly, +and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that +an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling +produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again +to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had +been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent, +but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was +getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she gathered +stern way and was clear. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and +she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I hope +the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here and now +I must record the splendid manner in which these men are working. +I find it difficult to express my admiration for the manner in +which the ship is handled and worked under these very trying +circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me about it to-night; +I think I like him more every day.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and +satisfied themselves that the ice +<a name="page_239"><span class="page">Page 239</span></a> +was good; and with the 25th fixed for the date of departure it was +not too much to hope that the ice would remain for three or four +more days. The ponies for Campbell's party were put on board on +the 22nd, but when Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning +he saw, to his astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay +in a solid mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and +a wonderful day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges +and equipment were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed; +in short everything to do with the depôt party was hurriedly +put on board except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and +try to get over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication between +the new station at Cape Evans and the <i>Discovery</i> hut, for the +rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island prevented +a passage by land. The Road provided level going below the cliffs +of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending glacier; +and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier itself. +It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays and the sea-ice +along the coast, which only stayed fast for the season. Thus it +was most important to get safely over the dangerous part of this +Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To wait until +after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut Point would +have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well enough that +the Road might not hold for many more hours, +<a name="page_240"><span class="page">Page 240</span></a> +and it actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott +and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led +out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test the +track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to inspect +Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities of +sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c. &c.; +but the <i>pièce de résistance</i> was the capture +of several bucketsful of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces +had been previously caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling +that it alone repays the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the +ship skirted the Island, and with a telescope those on board could +watch the string of ponies steadily progressing over the sea-ice +past the Razor Back Islands; and, as soon as they were seen to +be well advanced, the ship steamed on to the Glacier Tongue, and +made fast in the narrow angle made by the sea-ice with the glacier. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on +the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without +much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier, +and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But when +Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30 feet +across, it was evident that they must get past it on the glacier, +and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_241"><span class="page">Page 241</span></a> +Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to start +again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their loads having +already been taken on the floe. At first all went well, but when +the animals got down on the floe level and Oates led across an +old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at the edge and +sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it sank deeper and +deeper until only its head and forelegs showed above the slush. +With some trouble ropes were attached to these, and the poor animal, +looking very weak and miserable, was eventually pulled out. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After this experience the other five ponies were led farther round +to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small feed was +given to them, and then they were started off with their loads. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting +on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed to +security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott, writing +from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All have arrived +safely, and this evening we start our sledges south. I expect we +shall have to make three relays to get all our stores on to the +Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land a geologising +party on the west side of the Sound, and then to proceed to King +Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham, Wright, +and P.O. Evans, and for reasons +<a name="page_242"><span class="page">Page 242</span></a> +already mentioned the Eastern party were eventually known as the +Northern party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier +and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one team +of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on the +following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the men +had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never +sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all +these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily +trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed +their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward. +God bless them.' +</p> + +<hr> + +<p class="indent"> +How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's +party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story +of their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of +Campbell, Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and +the courage shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless +difficulties and privations has met with the unstinted admiration +that it most thoroughly deserved. +</p> + +<hr> + +<p class="indent"> +For the depôt laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12 +men (Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans, +Gran, Meares, Forde, +<a name="page_243"><span class="page">Page 243</span></a> +Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs. Of the dogs +he felt at this time more than a little doubtful, but the ponies +were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They work with such +extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and cheerfully, +following in each other's tracks. The great drawback is the ease +with which they sink in soft snow: they go through in lots of places +where the men scarcely make an impression—they struggle pluckily +when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to +complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained +to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labour of this day +tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the next +day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs of +breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the situation. +In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they got into +better condition, began to do excellent work. During Sunday they +ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the Barrier to +the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depôt. 'I +don't think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but it's +just as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp must deserve +its distinctive title of "Safety."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely +handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable +account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of +<a name="page_244"><span class="page">Page 244</span></a> +trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs.... +Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble of +that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole a few +yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him before one +can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the whip—and +everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness of the dog +next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that takes much +patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the whole team should +get away with the sledge and its load, and leave one behind.... +I never did get left the whole of this depôt journey, but I +was often very near it, and several times had only time to seize a +strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged along helter-skelter +over everything that came in the way, till the team got sick of +galloping and one could struggle to one's feet again. One gets very +wary and wide-awake when one has to manage a team of eleven dogs and +a sledge load by oneself, but it was a most interesting experience, +and I had a delightful leader, "Stareek" by name—Russian for +"Old Man," and he was the most wise old man.... Dog driving like +this in the orthodox manner is a very different thing from the +beastly dog driving we perpetrated in the <i>Discovery</i> days.... +I got to love all my team and they got to know me well.... Stareek +is quite a ridiculous "old man" and quite the nicest, quietest, +cleverest old dog I have ever come across. He looks in face as if +he knew all the wickedness of all the world +<a name="page_245"><span class="page">Page 245</span></a> +and all its cares, and as if he were bored to death by them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until they +started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we must +travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous than +successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great difficulty +in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott disclosed +his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with five weeks' +food for men and animals, then to depôt a fortnight's supply +after twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp. The loads +for ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little over 600 +lbs., and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from sledges. +Whether the ponies could manage these loads depended on the surface, +and there was a great possibility that the dogs would have to be +lightened, but under the circumstances it was the best plan they +could hope to carry out. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair +of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect. In +places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he strolled +round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately after this +experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made to get more +snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson had started, +on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to the station +twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned with the news +that there was no +<a name="page_246"><span class="page">Page 246</span></a> +possibility of reaching Cape Evans, and an additional stroke of +bad fortune fell when Atkinson's foot, which had been troublesome +for some time, was examined and found to be so bad that he had +to be left behind with Crean as a companion. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,' +Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter +station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the +Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with +all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we +find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent +a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies, +but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned +this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right +sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year +is a help for next.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig012.jpg" width="874" height="550" + alt="Figure 12"> +<br />PONY CAMP ON THE BARRIER. +<br /><i>Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after +marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes, he +found that they had been left behind, and Gran—whose expertness +on ski was most useful—immediately volunteered to go back +and get them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's +suggestion they had decided to take to night marching. And so at +12.30 A.M. they started off once more on a surface that was bad +at first but gradually improved, until just before camping time +Bowers, who was leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several +of the others, following close behind +<a name="page_247"><span class="page">Page 247</span></a> +him, shared the same fate, and soon three ponies were plunging +and struggling in a drift, and had to be unharnessed and led round +from patch to patch until firmer ground was reached. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put on +Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he settled +down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only that but +also another over places into which he had previously been plunging. +Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great help to their +work had been left behind at the station, and it was all the more +trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed in the snow, and +panting and heaving from the strain, when the remedies for his +state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible to reach. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies, on +a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of bad +weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on Saturday +a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp for three +days. 'No fun to be out of the tent—but there are no shirkers +with us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the ponies; Meares and +Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us as occasion required.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but when +it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the effects +of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished the march +listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_248"><span class="page">Page 248</span></a> +But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load +was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and led +his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would soon +improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to be kept +alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the journey would +have to be curtailed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be stronger. +'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott wrote on +Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for the day an +account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of our sleeping-bags +about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout to the Soldier[1] "How +are things?" There is a response suggesting readiness, and soon +after figures are busy amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling +work for the fingers and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come +off the animals, the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment +are loaded on the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one +by one the animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to +the sledge. Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep +such a nervous creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt +one feels impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy +fellows. Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and +ends. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Oates.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few +pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking their +tent. With numbed fingers on +<a name="page_249"><span class="page">Page 249</span></a> +our horse's bridle and the animal striving to turn its head from +the wind one feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says "All +right, Bowers, go ahead," and Birdie leads his big animal forward, +starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got +cold and at the word they are off, the Soldier's and one or two +others with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery +sastrugi,[1] and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty +in maintaining the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and +in ten minutes the column has settled itself to steady marching. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Irregularities formed by the wind on a snow-plain.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or +another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone. +These are the only real incidents of the march—for the rest +it passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. +The weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon +up in line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a +single halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop +long and a very few minutes found us on the go again. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle. +Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent +mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket +lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two other +sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we are +drawn up in camp formation. The picket +<a name="page_250"><span class="page">Page 250</span></a> +lines are run across at right angles to the line of advance and +secured to the two sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies +are on the lines covered, tents up again and cookers going. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp, +have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks. +They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after +our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into +an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp +forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and +within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags.... +At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow +walls and improving their rugs, &c. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult, +and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed +signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday +morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had +to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to +play an important part in the future. By this time three of the +ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott +decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard, and +Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by Bowers' +imperviousness to +<a name="page_251"><span class="page">Page 251</span></a> +cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful. Throughout the night he +has worn no head-gear but a common green felt hat kept on with a +chin-stay and affording no cover whatever for the ears. His face +and ears remain bright red. The rest of us were glad to have thick +Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have never seen anyone so unaffected +by the cold. To-night he remained outside a full hour after the +rest of us had got into the tent. He was simply pottering about +the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, &c. Cherry-Garrard +is remarkable because of his eyes. He can only see through glasses +and has to wrestle with all sorts of inconveniences in consequence. +Yet one could never guess it—for he manages somehow to do +more than his share of the work.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so +bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and the +soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps and +made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they struggled +on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace, and when they +were three-quarters of a mile behind the others the dog teams (which +always left the camp after the others) overtook them. Then the dogs +got out of hand and attacked Weary Willy, who put up a sterling +fight but was bitten rather badly before Meares and Gran could +drive off the dogs. Afterwards it was discovered that Weary Willy's +load was much heavier than that of the other ponies, and an attempt +to continue the march had quickly +<a name="page_252"><span class="page">Page 252</span></a> +to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some compensation +for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large snow wall, and +some extra sacking, and on the following day he showed appreciation +of these favors by a marked improvement. Bowers' pony, however, +refused work for the first time, and Oates was more despondent +than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to see that this is a +characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays every attention to +the weaker horses.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers' +pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn back +on the following day. During the last march out the temperature fell +to -21° with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were +frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely, +but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to +feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing +such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will +find spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the +point of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which +gives him much trouble—this is the worse prospect for summit +work. I have been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, +this cold spell gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but +one must be prepared for a pretty good doing.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The depôt was built during the next day, February 17, Lat. +79° 29' S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_253"><span class="page">Page 253</span></a> +Stores left in depôt: +</p> + +<table border="0"> + <tr><td class="right">lbs.</td><td> </td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">245</td> + <td>7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">12</td> + <td>2 days' provision bags for 1 unit</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">8</td> + <td>8 weeks' tea</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">31</td> + <td>6 weeks' extra butter</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">176</td> + <td>lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit)</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">85</td> + <td>8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit)</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">850</td> + <td>5 sacks of oats</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">424</td> + <td>4 bales of fodder</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">250</td> + <td>Tank of dog biscuit</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right" style="border-bottom: 1px solid black;">100</td> + <td>2 cases of biscuit</td></tr> + <tr><td class="right">2181</td><td> </td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>1 skein white line</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>1 set breast harness</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>2 12 ft. sledges</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>2 pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>1 <i>Minimum Thermometer</i>[1]</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>1 tin Rowntree cocoa</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>1 tin matches</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: See <a href="#page_337">page 337</a>.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80°, he was satisfied that +they had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed +the ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff +and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes +to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the +sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The depôt +cairn was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party +had the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to +show up for many miles. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_254"><span class="page">Page 254</span></a> +CHAPTER III +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">PERILS</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> + ...Yet I argue not<br /> +Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot<br /> +Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer<br /> +Right onward.<br /> + MILTON. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard +went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates +and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent marches +were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as Scott was +to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened to the +other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied with the +daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came in their +rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a most +serious disaster. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday +night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could +be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an +hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined +<a name="page_255"><span class="page">Page 255</span></a> +pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the teams +were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams driven by +Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,' Cherry-Garrard +says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after another, like +dogs going down a hole after a rat.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished +from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader, +put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold. +The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and +Meares jumped aside. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually been +traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped +on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss. 'Why the +sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall never know. +I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must have taken us +down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear of the bridge +and anchored, they peered into the depths of the cracks. The dogs, +suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions, were howling dismally +and almost frantic with terror. Two of them had dropped out of +their harness and, far below, could be seen indistinctly on a +snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the chain had bitten deep +into the snow at the side of the crevasse and with the weight below +could not possibly be moved. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and Cherry-Garrard, +the latter hurriedly +<a name="page_256"><span class="page">Page 256</span></a> +bringing the Alpine rope, the exact position of which on the sledge +he most fortunately knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the +team was not by any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt +failed. In spite of their determined efforts they could get not +an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope, +which with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the +snow. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a definite +plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent, cooker, and +sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then Scott, seizing +the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the tent-poles across +the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get a few inches on the +leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness was immediately cut. +The next step was to secure the leading rope to the main trace and +haul up together. By this means one dog was rescued and unlashed, +but the rope already had cut so far back at the edge that efforts +to get more of it were useless. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig013.jpg" width="555" height="709" + alt="Figure 13"> +<br />SNOWED-UP TENT AFTER THREE DAYS' BLIZZARD. +<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. T. Gran.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should +have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap +and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and +pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored trace +while the others worked at the leader end. The leading rope, however, +was so very small that Scott was afraid of its breaking, and Meares +was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of +<a name="page_257"><span class="page">Page 257</span></a> +the trace; when this had been done the chance of rescuing the dogs +at once began to improve. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen +were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other +dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see +if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled. +The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the +depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and +insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm, +and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the +surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose +above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to +stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three +of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end. +That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he +never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them. +When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring, +but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this is +running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it +was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated +themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott +and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed +<a name="page_258"><span class="page">Page 258</span></a> +outright, but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful +signs of recovery after their terrible experience. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were +as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed a +very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is certain, +the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with men sitting +on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the teams and the +Russian custom must be dropped.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to Scott's +great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return journey. Forde +had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher, and although the +greatest care had also been given to Blossom, both of them were +left on the Southern Road. The remaining one of the three, James +Pigg, had managed not only to survive but actually to thrive, and, +severe as the loss of the two ponies was, some small consolation +could be gained from the fact that they were the oldest of the +team, and the two which Oates considered to be the least useful. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard and +Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished to +find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable, no +one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag containing +a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But presently what +turned out to be the true +<a name="page_259"><span class="page">Page 259</span></a> +solution of this curious state of affairs was guessed, namely, that +Atkinson and Crean had been on their way from the hut to Safety +Camp as the others had come from the camp to the hut, and later +on Scott saw their sledge track leading round on the sea-ice. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened +to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round Cape +Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety Camp, +but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred yards +of their destination that they saw three tents instead of two, +and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner, however, +had Scott received his letters than his feelings of relief were +succeeded by sheer astonishment. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents of +the mail bag which Atkinson gave me—a letter from Campbell +setting out his doings and the finding of <i>Amundsen</i> established +in the Bay of Whales. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, as +well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though +this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the honour +of the country without fear or panic. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace +to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles—I +never thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to the +ice. His +<a name="page_260"><span class="page">Page 260</span></a> +plan for running them seems excellent. But above and beyond all +he can start his journey early in the season—an impossible +condition with ponies.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had, after +landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point, proceeded along +the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across Amundsen camped in +the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however, for Campbell's party +could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was a great disappointment +to us all, but there was nothing for it but to return to McMurdo +Sound to communicate with the main party, and then try to effect a +landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet or as far to the westward +as possible on the north coast of Victoria Land, and if possible +to explore the unknown coast west of Cape North. We therefore made +the best of our way to Cape Evans, and arrived on the evening of +the 8th. Here I decided to land the two ponies, as they would be +very little use to us on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land, +and in view of the Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party +would require all the transport available. After landing the ponies +we steamed up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there, +taking Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point, +where the depôt party would call on their way back.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news which +was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he refused +to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_261"><span class="page">Page 261</span></a> +Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and +Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and +Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and +Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James Pigg, +started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out and saw +a short black line on the horizon towards White Island. Presently +he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions, but they +were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp; so when the +latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers, but was glad to +see five pony walls and consequently to know that all the animals +were still alive. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Having depôted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard +and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James Pigg +by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in the +tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday did +Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were without +exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially in +a pitiable condition. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp, arrangements +were made immediately for a general shift to Hut Point, and about +four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson and Meares got +safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to start, the plan +being for them to follow in the tracks of the dogs; the route was +over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing to the spread of +water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_262"><span class="page">Page 262</span></a> +At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight +was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on +with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott, +with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the sick +pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy died +during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start <i>necessary for +next year</i>,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1, +but on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of +the past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only +one comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates +and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage depôt, +which was at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge, +in a S.S.E. direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky +looked black and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes +loomed out ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the +strange optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew +close to the depôt all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full +of broken pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew +to the ponies and dogs. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a +working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in +line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first +thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling +<a name="page_263"><span class="page">Page 263</span></a> +back from Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran +went to the depôt with a note as Oates and I disconsolately +thought out the situation. I thought to myself that if either party +had reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would +immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By this +time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour passed, +and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that two specks +in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered them +to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him, because +they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary Willy had +upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming reports +that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs began +very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left Safety Camp +with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge of the Barrier,' +Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs were on ahead and we +saw them turn and make right round Cape Armitage. "Uncle Bill" +got done, and I took up the dog tracks which we followed over the +tide crack and well on towards Cape Armitage. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after fresh +crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching through +for many feet on both +<a name="page_264"><span class="page">Page 264</span></a> +sides. We all thought it impossible to proceed and turned back.... +The ponies began to get very done, and Bowers decided to get back +over the tide crack, find a snowy place, and camp. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed +to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have been +with the ponies. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers +cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a long +time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt very bad +for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all his. Otherwise +we had a good meal. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside +down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers went +out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened by a grinding +sound, jumped up, and found the situation as follows:— +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to +thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think +about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe, and +"Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to us all +and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks. We packed +anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker. It seemed +to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said so, but Bowers +decided to try. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We decided that to go towards White Island +<a name="page_265"><span class="page">Page 265</span></a> +looked best, and for five hours traveled in the following way:—we +jumped the ponies over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then +man-hauled the sledges after them, then according to the size of the +floe sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled +the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I should +think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the +Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get +up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere +off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to try +and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and leaping +from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with the help of +his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It was a desperate +venture, but luckily successful.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing +the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen +rapidly making for the depôt from the west. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the situation +he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares, and started +with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of the mishap. A +halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions and oil, and +then, marching carefully round, they approached the ice-edge, and +to their joy caught sight of Bowers and Cherry-Garrard. With the help +<a name="page_266"><span class="page">Page 266</span></a> +of the Alpine rope both the men were dragged to the surface, and +after camp had been pitched at a safe distance from the edge all +hands started upon salvage work. The ice at this time lay close and +quiet against the Barrier edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and +Cherry-Garrard had been hauled up, the sledges and their contents +were safely on the Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were +saved, the ice began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing +could be done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon +their floes. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were +dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30 +yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast +we discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor +their floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It +was a sad moment.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced +that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed +and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the +poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life. +Then there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge +and discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable +way to land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, +tried to leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually +we had to kill him—it was awful. I recalled all hands and +pointed out my +<a name="page_267"><span class="page">Page 267</span></a> +road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and worked +their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with them on +the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought we should +get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump and plunged +into the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice— killer +whales all about us in an intense state of excitement. The poor +animal couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to kill it. +These incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday, March 2), +we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to the one I +had just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our sad journey +to Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss of our ponies, +but mercifully with all the party alive and well.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only +three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this +physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E. Evans +and his party were safe; but while they were camping that night +on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well, came +in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut Point +in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran, who were +looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in trying to +make two sleeping-bags do the work of three. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing +and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep +in the bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were +cut off from +<a name="page_268"><span class="page">Page 268</span></a> +any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze over, +and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up a +small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire +for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not +much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also +with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his +sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party +to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing +in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we +couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work. +There were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in +<i>Discovery</i> days, and with these we built up a small inner +hut to live in.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on +Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have +all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James +Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on the +depôt journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition +there was reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had +not happened. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_269"><span class="page">Page 269</span></a> +CHAPTER IV +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">A HAPPY FAMILY</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +By mutual confidence and mutual aid<br /> +Great deeds are done and great discoveries made.<br /> + ANON. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +With the certainty of having to stay in the <i>Discovery</i> hut for +some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable as +possible. With packing-cases a large <i>L</i>-shaped inner apartment +was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty kerosene +tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent little stove +which was connected to the old stove-pipe. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available, +and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and Wilson +found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out and was +crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party as much +meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary for our +comfort and only need a little more experience to make the best of +our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which everyone +is learning the ropes, and the resource which +<a name="page_270"><span class="page">Page 270</span></a> +is being shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful +suggestions and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower +of strength in checking the ill-usage of clothes—what I have +come to regard as the greatest danger with Englishmen.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased in +force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which drove +the <i>Discovery</i> ashore. The blizzard continued until noon +on Tuesday, on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith +Taylor, Wright, Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut after +a successful trip. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Two days later another depôt party started to Corner Camp, +E. Evans, Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, +Cherry-Garrard and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting +of Wright to join in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a +splendid puller.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were constantly +being increased, but continuous bad weather was both depressing +to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort had been +made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of wind made +it impossible to give them shelter in all directions. At least +five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen others were +by no means strong, but whether because they were constitutionally +harder or whether better fitted by nature to protect themselves +the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit as they could be. +As it was found to be impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in +the traces, the majority +<a name="page_271"><span class="page">Page 271</span></a> +of them were allowed to run loose; for although Scott feared that +this freedom would mean that there would be some fights to the +death, he thought it preferable to the risk of losing the animals +by keeping them on the leash. The main difficulty with them was +that when the ice once got thoroughly into the coats their hind +legs became half paralyzed with cold, but by allowing them to run +loose it was hoped that they would be able to free themselves of +this serious trouble. 'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind +to us. This month will have sad memories. Still I suppose things +might be worse; the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly +well....' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The depôt party returned to the hut on March 23, but though +the sea by this time showed symptoms of <i>wanting</i> to freeze, +there was no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day. +Stock therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements +were made for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A week +later the ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of Hut +Point, but the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island still +refused to freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began to think +that they might not be able to get back to Cape Evans before May. +Soon afterwards, however, the sea began to freeze over completely, and +on Thursday evening, April 6, a program, subject to the continuance +of good weather, was arranged for a shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels +good,' Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to have something doing in the air.' +But the weather prevented them from starting on the appointed day, +and although +<a name="page_272"><span class="page">Page 272</span></a> +Scott was most anxious to get back and see that all was well at +Cape Evans, the comfort achieved in the old hut was so great that +he confessed himself half-sorry to leave it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around the +fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter and +a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. After +lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt a long +stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again +with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival +one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver.... +Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night—or +nearly every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has +proved a genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his +reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber, +suggesting that the latter could be freed from all rankness.... +The "fry" proved redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of +that peculiar flavour which faintly lingers in the meat and should +not be emphasized. Three heroes got through their pannikins, but +the rest of us decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after +tasting the first mouthful.[1] +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Wilson, referring to this incident in his Journal, +showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over a fry I made in my new +penguin lard. It was quite a success and tasted like very bad sardine +oil.'] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking +<a name="page_273"><span class="page">Page 273</span></a> +and conversation—a cheering, pleasant hour—in which +reminiscences are exchanged by a company which has very literally +had world-wide experience. There is scarce a country under the sun +which one or another of us has not traveled in, so diverse are +our origins and occupations. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone +can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a +few would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which +goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly +healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke, +appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the +party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one +tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another; Wilson +being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde, Keohane, +Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became +evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending, +and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs. Seven +and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks, a very +icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light became +bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time. Half an +hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to the ice +cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock +<a name="page_274"><span class="page">Page 274</span></a> +and Erebus all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear +track to the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there +no low place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer +drop), and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to +drift off the ridge a quick decision had to be made. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to +work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered. +Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder +of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and +speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without serious +frost-bites. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very +heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A stiff +incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was failing +and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell in with +considerable risk of damage. The north side, however, was well +snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice cliff in which +a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under the circumstances +Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but darkness suddenly fell +upon them, and after very heavy pulling for many hours they were +so totally unable to see anything ahead, that at 10 P.M. they were +compelled to pitch their camp under little Razor Back Island. During +the night the wind began to rise, and in the morning a roaring +blizzard was blowing, and obviously the ice on which they had pitched +their camp was +<a name="page_275"><span class="page">Page 275</span></a> +none too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull, until at +3 P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result +that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under +the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours, +but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer +from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied +down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the +wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening; +we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only one +more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to get than +on the previous night, because they knew that they were no longer +in danger of being swept out to sea. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning the +party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen clothes +were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only two miles, +and after some very hard pulling they arrived off the point and +found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It was a very great +relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility +of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that no +heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; secondly, +that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack which would +damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well protected by +the Barne Glacier; and, lastly, +<a name="page_276"><span class="page">Page 276</span></a> +that the beach itself showed no signs of having been swept by the +sea. When, however, the hut had been erected and he found that its +foundation was only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice, +he could not rid himself entirely of misgivings. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not +until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious +he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been +in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the +ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself +of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal +swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the +small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was +mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen +by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants +(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton +and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute +the most important events of the quiet station life were told, the +worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and one dog +had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked admirably, +and the scientific routine of observations was in full swing. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After their primitive life at the <i>Discovery</i> hut the interior +space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort +luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to enjoy +the first bath for three months, and have contact with clean, dry +<a name="page_277"><span class="page">Page 277</span></a> +clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom soon banished +their delight) are the treasured remembrance of every Polar traveler.' +Not for many hours or even minutes, however, was Scott in the hut +before he was taken round to see in detail the transformation that +had taken place in his absence, and in which a very proper pride +was taken by those who had created it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous +shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, electric +batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the tickings of many +clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally the trembling note +of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me days and even months +to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific +accuracy with which he was achieving them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection +into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography had +never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely without +them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of negatives and +prints can only be justified by the quality of the work produced in +it, and is only justified in our case by such an artist as Ponting.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared, +to their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing +note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid +tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements +<a name="page_278"><span class="page">Page 278</span></a> +of the hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried +out with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next, +and Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown +by Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was +called in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that +he was capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases, +I was less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had +considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his attention +to pots and pans.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals, +and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that +some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated +fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the +ten remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the +furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it +was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not +only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been +built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions, +in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were +almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that +had assailed him on the homeward route. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the +comforts of Cape Evans, as on +<a name="page_279"><span class="page">Page 279</span></a> +Monday, April 17, they were off again to Hut Point with two 10-foot +sledges, a week's provisions of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal, +&c., for the hut. Scott, Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first +sledge; Bowers, Nelson, Crean and Hooper the second; and after a +rather adventurous journey, in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp +work as of old,' they reached Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following +day, and found everyone well and in good spirits. The party left at +the hut were, however, very short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety, +because until the sea froze over there was no possibility of getting +the ponies back to Cape Evans. But three seals were reported on +the Wednesday and promptly killed, and so Scott, satisfied that +this stock was enough for twelve days, resolved to go back as soon +as the weather would allow him. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with +the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson, +Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the +homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott, +Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates, +Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the leaders, +and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with the second +sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean declared +that although the loads were equal there was a great difference +in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented when I +voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party thought it the +<a name="page_280"><span class="page">Page 280</span></a> +plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like proof, and he +readily assented to change sledges. The difference was really +extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight compared with +the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters regardless +of how much we perspired.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked through, +and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice fell upon +the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief and showed +the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold, however, +was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish of rice +and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was at an +end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses they had +sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson, Oates, Atkinson +and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut since it had been +fitted out, were astonished at its comfort. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point, +the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun. +Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Hooper, +Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton, but in +making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning that those +who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead them in the +spring. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally busy +unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators. Wright +began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates started to +make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard employed himself +<a name="page_281"><span class="page">Page 281</span></a> +in building a stone house for taxidermy and with a view to getting +hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during the winter, while Taylor +and Debenham took advantage of the last of the light to examine +the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans surveyed the Cape and +its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in addition to their +other work, spent hours over balloon experiments. In fact everyone +was overflowing with energy. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back +from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for +good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice; +and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of +every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously, +however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that could +not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter steadily +progressed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of the +<i>South Polar Times</i> and the following notice was issued: +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +The first number of the <i>South Polar Times</i> will be published +on Midwinter Day. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously, +and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible. +No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not +intended that the paper shall be too scientific. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +<a name="page_282"><span class="page">Page 282</span></a> +Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing. +Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration +are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible. +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> + The Editor,<br /> + <i>S. P. T.</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required +a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he +would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were +fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar +literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of winter +lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and in turn +Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured on their +special subjects. But still the <i>Discovery</i> hut party did not +appear, although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over for +nearly a week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that they would +return. In the meantime there was work and to spare for everyone, +and as the days went by Scott was also given ample opportunities +to get a thorough knowledge of his companions. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so +demonstrative of character as that which we had on these expeditions. +One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under ordinary conditions +it is so easy to carry a point with a little bounce; self-assertion +is a mask which covers many a weakness.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_283"><span class="page">Page 283</span></a> +Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that +counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them. Pretence +is useless. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and colour box, rapidly and steadily +adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at intervals filling +the gaps in his zoological work of <i>Discovery</i> times; withal +ready and willing to give advice and assistance to others at all +times; his sound judgment appreciated and therefore a constant +referee. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers +at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations +are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his mind +with the ice problems of this wonderful region...' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E. +Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and +conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly +the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of gratitude. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working +of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all +arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly adjusted +to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing the +length of time which each of our possessions will last us and the +assurance that there can be no waste. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_284"><span class="page">Page 284</span></a> +Active mind and active body were never more happily blended. It +is a restless activity admitting no idle moments and ever budding +into new forms. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he +is away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such +a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out +again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because for +the moment there is no one else to care for these animals.... He +is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any discomfort +from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with equal profit. +For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding food and +clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an authority +on past records. This will be no small help to me and one which +others never could have given. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly +pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world. +The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are +his field of labour.... His bench with its array of microscopes, +etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater +part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic +enthusiasm.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet +workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness +to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places; +sound all through and pretty hard also.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really +<a name="page_285"><span class="page">Page 285</span></a> +devoted to their care, and I believe will produce them in the best +possible form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores, +installing a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his +satellite, Anton, is ever at work in the stables—an excellent +little man. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt +boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is +no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline +of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the +problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on +the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general +agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed +to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the +problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any +suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be a +tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were returning, +and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and reported that +the ponies were not far behind. For more than three weeks the weather +at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and fine, and with joy +Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking remarkably well, and +that the two ponies also seemed to have improved. 'It is a great +comfort to have the men and dogs back, and a greater to +<a name="page_286"><span class="page">Page 286</span></a> +contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled for the winter. +Everything seems to depend on these animals.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and games +of football—when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers to +get their toes frost-bitten—in the afternoons, the winter +passed steadily on its way; the only stroke of misfortune being +that one of the dogs died suddenly and that a post-mortem did not +reveal any sufficient cause of death. This was the third animal +that had died without apparent reason at winter-quarters, and Scott +became more than ever convinced that to place any confidence in +the dog teams would be a mistake. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans and +Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted of +a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels— +and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions. +The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity +of provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the +party discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday +services had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were +all that could be mustered. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig014.jpg" width="529" height="819" + alt="Figure 14"> +<br />"BIRDIE" BOWERS READING THE THERMOMETER ON THE RAMP, +JUNE 6TH, 1911. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did +not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top +of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in +chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_287"><span class="page">Page 287</span></a> +A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat down +with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this luxurious +meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative. As I write +there is a group in the dark room discussing political progress +with large discussions, another at one corner of the dinner table +airing its views on the origin of matter and the probability of its +ultimate discovery, and yet another debating military problems.... +Perhaps these arguments are practically unprofitable, but they +give a great deal of pleasure to the participants.... They are +boys, all of them, but such excellent good-natured ones; there +has been no sign of sharpness or anger, no jarring note, in all +these wordy contests; all end with a laugh. Nelson has offered +Taylor a pair of socks to teach him some geology! This lulls me +to sleep!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying, +and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he +wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points +were: +</p> + +<ol style="text-align: justify; margin-right: 2em;"> + +<li>Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to +have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass +at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it +to obtain a true course from the compass....</li> + +<li>He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depôt +from another.</li> + +<li>He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite.</li> + +<li>He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation. +<a name="page_288"><span class="page">Page 288</span></a></li> + +<li>He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to +work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.</li> + +<li>He should know how to read the sledgemeter.</li> + +<li>He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries +and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time.</li> + +<li>He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of +objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new +peaks, &c.</li> + +</ol> + +<p class="indent"> +That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears +is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later. In +it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious face +to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For the +moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I remembered +that some months ago I said that it would be a good thing for all +the officers going South to have some knowledge of navigation so +that in emergency they would know how to steer a sledge home. It +appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious and arduous +course of abstruse navigational problems which he found exceedingly +tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is not one chance +in a hundred that he will ever have to consider navigation on our +journey and in that one chance the problem must be of the simplest +nature, but it makes it much easier for me to have men who +<a name="page_289"><span class="page">Page 289</span></a> +take the details of one's work so seriously and who strive so simply +and honestly to make it successful.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working at +latitude sights—mathematics which I hate—till bedtime. +It will be wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge +journey.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions +to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome, +a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began to +prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to sweep +the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men were out and +about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the ponies, Demetri +to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon the slumberers +with announcements of the time, and presently Wilson and Bowers +met in a state of nature beside a washing basin filled with snow +and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this chilly substance. +A little later others with less hardiness could be seen making the +most of a meager allowance of water. A few laggards invariably +ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and a little pressure had +to be applied so that they should not delay the day's work. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table was +cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed on a +program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful half-hour +was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if the +<a name="page_290"><span class="page">Page 290</span></a> +weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who were +not employed in this way generally exercised themselves in some way +or other. After this the officers went steadily on with their special +work until 6.30, when dinner was served and finished within the +hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and usually the gramophone, +but three nights of the week were given up to lectures. At 11 P.M. +the acetylene lights were put out, and those who wished to stay up +had to depend on candle-light. The majority of candles, however, +were extinguished by midnight, and the night watchman alone remained +awake to keep his vigil by the light of an oil lamp. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday +morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on. +'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage +of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly +not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the +twenty-four.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very +hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and fears. +'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than his sledge +is reliable in action. I wish I could have more confidence in his +preparations, as he is certainly a delightful companion.' Three +days later Midwinter was celebrated with great festivities, and +after lunch the Editor handed over the first number of the <i>S. +P. T.</i> to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at the top of +<a name="page_291"><span class="page">Page 291</span></a> +the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a teacher' is +the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read aloud most +of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written by Taylor, +some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's illustrations +to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites; indeed the +editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to Wilson, though +Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin was also +'a great help.' As all the contributions were anonymous great fun +was provided by attempts to guess the various authors, and some +of the denials made by the contributors were perhaps more modest +than strictly truthful. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared +with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the +'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table, +and at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the celebration +as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in the plans of the +expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that some of the company +did not realize how rapidly the weeks were passing, and that in +consequence work which ought to have been in full swing had barely +been begun, he went on to say that it was time they knew how they +stood in every respect, and especially thanked the officer in charge +of the stores and those who looked after the +<a name="page_292"><span class="page">Page 292</span></a> +animals, for knowing the exact position as regards provision and +transport. Then he said that in respect to the future chance must +play a great part, but that experience showed him that no more +fitting men could have been chosen to support him on the journey +to the South than those who were to start in that direction in +the following spring. Finally he thanked all of his companions +for having put their shoulders to the wheel and given him so much +confidence. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and afterwards +everyone was called to speak in turn. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly, +all had exceedingly kind things to say of me—in fact I was +obliged to request the omissions of compliments at an early stage. +Nevertheless it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition +of my attitude towards the scientific workers of the expedition, +and I felt very warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for +expressing it. If good will and fellowship count towards success, +very surely shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment, +much applauded, that there had not been a single disagreement between +any two members of our party from the beginning. By the end of +dinner a very cheerful spirit prevailed.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged +in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local +negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and +of those on board +<a name="page_293"><span class="page">Page 293</span></a> +the <i>Terra Nova</i> had been drunk, a set of lancers was formed. +In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly appeared, +followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas tree, the +branches of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little +presents for everyone; the distribution of which caused infinite +amusement. Thus the high festival of Midwinter was celebrated in the +most convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent of a Christmas +spent in England was partly, at any rate, due to those kind people +who had anticipated the celebration by providing presents and other +tokens of their interest in the expedition. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an outburst +in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated the birth +of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered amongst the +greatest in our lives.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_294"><span class="page">Page 294</span></a> +CHAPTER V +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">WINTER</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> + Come what may<br /> +Time and the hour runs through the darkest day.<br /> + SHAKESPEARE. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy +in making preparations for their departure. The object of their +journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness of an +Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as could furnish +a series of early embryos, by means of which alone the particular +points of interest in the development of the bird could be worked +out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at the coldest season +of the year, this journey entailed the risk of sledge traveling in +mid-winter, and the travelers had also to traverse about a hundred +miles of the Barrier surface, and to cross a chaos of crevasses +which had previously taken a party as much as two hours to cross +by daylight. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig015.jpg" width="875" height="575" + alt="Figure 15"> +<br />PITCHING THE DOUBLE TENT ON THE SUMMIT. +<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard +were with the help of others making preparations, and apart from the +<a name="page_295"><span class="page">Page 295</span></a> +extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it was most +interesting because the travelers were to make several experiments. +Each man was to go on a different food scale, eiderdown sleeping-bags +were to be carried inside the reindeer ones, and a new kind of +crampon and a double tent were to be tried. 'I came across a hint +as to the value of a double tent in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"' +Scott wrote on June 20, 'and P.O. Evans has made a lining for one +of the tents, it is secured on the inner side of the poles and +provides an air space inside the tent. I think it is going to be +a great success.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans +were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following +morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter travel +is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone to attempt +it. All good luck go with them!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work +went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming incident +until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew furiously, +but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson and Gran, +without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the floe for the +North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This happened at +5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not until later did +Scott hear that he had only gone two or three hundred yards from +the land, and that it had taken him nearly an hour to find his +way back. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_296"><span class="page">Page 296</span></a> +Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was +nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until +the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At +9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for +him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious +accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once +dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as +the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased, +as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off +and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one +conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be +got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the +scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence; +and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter +of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently, +to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson, +who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected +after such an adventure, very confused. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have returned +and all is well again, but we must have no more of these very +unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize that this +bit of experience has done more than all the talking I could have +<a name="page_297"><span class="page">Page 297</span></a> +ever accomplished to bring home to our people the dangers of a +blizzard.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great +danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not until +he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was frost-bitten. +Having waited there for some time he groped his way to the western +end, and then wandering away in a swirl of drift to clear some +irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely lost the island when he +could only have been a few yards from it. In this predicament he clung +to the old idea of walking up wind, and it must be considered wholly +providential that on this course he next struck Tent Island. Round +this island he walked under the impression that it was Inaccessible +Island, and at last dug himself a shelter on its lee side. When +the moon appeared he judged its bearing well, and as he traveled +homeward was vastly surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island +appear on his left. 'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man +has not only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must +struggle with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning +power which is far more likely to undo him.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had +ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week. The +force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled earlier +in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale was the +long continuance of a very cold temperature. On +<a name="page_298"><span class="page">Page 298</span></a> +Friday night the thermometer registered -39°, and throughout +Saturday and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35°. +It was Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had +to go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions +for any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine +snow beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath, +and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger +of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go +to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while +engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind +with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his +course. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5° or +7°, but the +gale still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge, +however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to +Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing +the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy of +every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a rainy +day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal material, +leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered with the same +spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares, +while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects to bemoan imaginary +shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee that we are prepared +to face any serious call.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind +<a name="page_299"><span class="page">Page 299</span></a> +moderated, and the ponies were able to get a short walk over the +floe, but this was only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon +blowing as furiously as ever. And the following night brought not +only a continuance of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day +one of the best ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in +spite of Oates' and Anton's most careful attention he soon became +critically ill. Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second, +and sacks were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour +after hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on +Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same +tale from Oates and Crean,[1] who never left their patient. 'Towards +midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so certain +that we cannot afford to lose a single pony—the margin of +safety has already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the +circumstance that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly +risk failure.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Bones was the pony which had been allotted to Crean.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement, +and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and +proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the +return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for +anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue +to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered +his sense of security, and although various alterations were made +in the arrangements of the stables and extra +<a name="page_300"><span class="page">Page 300</span></a> +precautions were taken as regards food, he was never again without +alarms for the safety of the precious ponies. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23, +but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the +atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no +longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity +of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never +been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide +us over all minor difficulties.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the Crozier +Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they came back +looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for five weeks +the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were scarred and +wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened and creased +with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite obviously the +main part of their afflictions arose from sheer lack of sleep, +and after a night's rest they were very different people both in +mind and body. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this +morning very much his keen, wiry self—Bowers is quite himself +to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still looks +worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely—but +Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers +has come through best, all things +<a name="page_301"><span class="page">Page 301</span></a> +considered, and I believe that he is the hardest traveler that ever +undertook a Polar journey, as well as one of the most undaunted; +more by hint than direct statement I gather his value to the party, +his untiring energy and the astonishing physique which enables him +to continue to work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing +to others. Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little +man.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey from +the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week the +thermometer fell below -60°, and on one night the minimum showed +-71°, and on the next -77°. Although in this fearful cold +the air was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind +eddied across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized +being has ever encountered such conditions before with only a tent +of thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that Amundsen +when journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures of a similar +degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him an igloo shelter +nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight, and finally he +turned homeward and regained his ship after five days' absence, +while this party went outward and were absent for five weeks. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region, and +then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard +followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better than complete +darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found +<a name="page_302"><span class="page">Page 302</span></a> +themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track, +sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice +disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they +ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge, +and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the +stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for +the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object +of their journey. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be +made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing +their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they +failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started +again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful +ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock +overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel +hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that +time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed. +Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen +at this rookery in <i>Discovery</i> days, they could only count +about a hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that +possibly the date was too early, and that if the birds had not +permanently deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been +seen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber +for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved, +made a hasty dash +<a name="page_303"><span class="page">Page 303</span></a> +for their camp, which by good luck they regained. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment +increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they +had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately +chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected +on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and +rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned +up, its disappearance being merely a question of time. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several +valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and +amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore +it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof +to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it secure, +what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it disappeared, +as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon the smother of +snow swept over them, and all they could do was to dive immediately +for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put out his head and said, +'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones as he could manage, whereupon +Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied, 'Yes, we're all right'; then +all of them were silent for a night and half a day, while the wind +howled and howled, and the snow entered every chink and crevice +of their sleeping-bags. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we registered +our maximum wind force, and +<a name="page_304"><span class="page">Page 304</span></a> +it seems probable that it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently +than on us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched travelers +then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth over their +heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in forty-eight +hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal under these +extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans to build shelters +on the homeward route. Every night, they decided, they must dig a +large pit and cover it as best they could with their floorcloth. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile +from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured. +But on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard +fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond +description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact +they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually +broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been coated +with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside vests at night +they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed it is scarcely +possible to realize the horrible discomforts of these three forlorn +travelers, as they plodded back across the Barrier in a temperature +constantly below -60°. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig016.jpg" width="544" height="424" + alt="Figure 16"> +<br />ADÉLIE PENGUIN ON NEST. +<br /><i>Photo by C. S. Wright.</i> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig017.jpg" width="549" height="416" + alt="Figure 17"> +<br />EMPEROR PENGUINS ON SEA-ICE. +<br /><i>Photo by C. S. Wright.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of the +penguins, but to me and to everyone +<a name="page_305"><span class="page">Page 305</span></a> +who has remained here the result of this effort is the appeal it +makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant stories of Polar +history. That men should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night +to face the most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness +is something new; that they should have persisted in this effort in +spite of every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a +tale for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall +know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays +its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information +remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown the +nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in winter. +Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have proof, +and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology of our +Strait.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey +Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary. +Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing +conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how +he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to +himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be +unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and +determination. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the +knowledge of the winter conditions on +<a name="page_306"><span class="page">Page 306</span></a> +the Barrier that they had gained, their journey settled several +points in connection with future sledding work. They had traveled +on a very simple food ration in different and extreme proportions, +for the only provisions they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit +and tea. After a short experience they found that Wilson, who had +arranged for the greatest quantity of fat, had too much of it, +while Cherry-Garrard, who had declared for biscuit, had more than +he could eat. Then a middle course was struck which gave a proportion +agreeable to all of them, and which at the same time suited the +total quantities of their various articles of food. The only change +that was suggested was the addition of cocoa for the evening meal, +because the travelers, thinking that tea robbed them of their slender +chance of sleep, had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this +way,' Scott decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable +ration for the inland plateau.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the +eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became +iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers never +used his eiderdown bag,[1] and in some miraculous manner he managed +more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights of the +sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea of the +ice collected. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: He insisted upon giving it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It +was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully self-sacrificing of him, more +than I can write. I felt a brute to take it, but I was getting +useless unless I got some sleep, which my big bag would not allow.'] +</p> + +<table class="center"> + <tr><td> </td> + <td>Starting<br />Weight</td> + <td>Final<br />Weight +<a name="page_307"><span class="page">Page 307</span></a> + </td></tr> + <tr><td>Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown.</td> + <td>17 lbs.</td><td>40 lbs.</td></tr> + <tr><td>Bowers, reindeer only.</td> + <td>17 "</td> + <td>33 "</td></tr> + <tr><td>C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown.</td> + <td>18 "</td> + <td>45 "</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="indent"> +The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons +were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older +form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated in +summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of clothes, +mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the difficulties +which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all Wilson can +say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent, excellent." One +continues to wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as made +by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our +more civilized garb. For us this can only be a matter of speculation, +as it would have been quite impossible to have obtained such articles. +With the exception of this radically different alternative, I feel +sure we are as near perfection as experience can direct. At any +rate we can now hold that our system of clothing has come through +a severer test than any other, fur included.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed, +and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the +returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the +spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became +almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott +<a name="page_308"><span class="page">Page 308</span></a> +and the new masters were to take charge on September 1, so that +they could exercise their respective animals and get to know them +as well as possible. The new arrangement was: +</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"> + <tr><td>Bowers</td><td>Victor</td></tr> + <tr><td>Wilson</td><td>Nobby</td></tr> + <tr><td>Atkinson</td><td>Jehu</td></tr> + <tr><td>Wright</td><td>Chinaman</td></tr> + <tr><td>Cherry-Garrard</td><td>Michael</td></tr> + <tr><td>Evans (P.O.)</td><td>Snatcher</td></tr> + <tr><td>Crean</td><td>Bones</td></tr> + <tr><td>Keohane</td><td>Jimmy Pigg</td></tr> + <tr><td>Oates</td><td>Christopher</td></tr> + <tr><td>Scott and Oates</td><td>Snippets</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="indent"> +On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse +Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously +discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also +the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points all +sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion was +that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the grating or +racquet principle, would probably be the best, the only alternative +seeming to be to perfect the principle of the lawn mowing shoe. +'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both kinds: the first for the +quiet animals and the last for the more excitable. I am confident +the matter is of first importance.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_309"><span class="page">Page 309</span></a> +Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming +a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite +unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was, Christopher, +Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high spirits that all +three of them bolted on the 21st. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due, +and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut. +Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went +outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes, +because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously +covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back +into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there +was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and +for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental +attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran +uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that +it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous +existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea +spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of +buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and +it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single +lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of +a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from +the fate of the "one-horse shay."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_310"><span class="page">Page 310</span></a> +Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once +out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts +and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on life +of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have changed. +For if there is little that is new to be said about the return +of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real and +important event to those who have lived without it for so many +months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing +in brilliant sunshine. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_311"><span class="page">Page 311</span></a> +CHAPTER VI +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter,<br /> +the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that<br /> +human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of<br /> +any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is<br /> +simply the unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries a little<br /> +further from our little sphere of action.—HUXLEY. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign +continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what +seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went +off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an +early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to +train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he chose +to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to do, left +him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding +figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their +organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little troubled +by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that every arrangement +had to be more than usually elastic, so that both the complete +success and the utter failure of +<a name="page_312"><span class="page">Page 312</span></a> +the motors could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says, +'that our plan will carry us through without the motors (though in +that case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage +of such help as the motors may give.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity +the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the +ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of +these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde, +however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with +his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while Bowers, +Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs' across +the Western Mountains. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig018.jpg" width="904" height="270" + alt="Figure 18"> +<br />DOG PARTY STARTING FROM HUT POINT. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig019.jpg" width="912" height="275" + alt="Figure 19"> +<br />DOG LINES. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was +occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey, every +figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous help.' +And later on, in speaking of the transport department, Scott says, +'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the details of my +plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers is the only +man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the work without +mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study was that Scott +came to the conclusion that there would be no difficulty in getting +to the Glacier if the motors were successful, and that even if +the motors failed they still ought to get there with any ordinary +degree of good fortune. To work three units of four men from that +point onward +<a name="page_313"><span class="page">Page 313</span></a> +would, he admitted, take a large amount of provisions, but with the +proper division he thought that they ought to attain their object. +'I have tried,' he said, 'to take every reasonable possibility +of misfortune into consideration;... I fear to be too sanguine, +yet taking everything into consideration I feel that our chances +ought to be good. The animals are in splendid form. Day by day the +ponies get fitter as their exercise increases.... But we cannot +spare any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of the +disablement of one or more before their work is done.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were successful, +Scott was very eager that they should be of some use so that all the +time, money and thought which had been given to their construction +should not be entirely wasted. But whatever the outcome of these +motors, his belief in the possibility of motor traction for Polar +work remained, though while it was in an untried and evolutionary +state he was too cautious and wise a leader to place any definite +reliance upon it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors, +he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the +Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit +together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled under +such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more especially +to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a single detail +of our equipment +<a name="page_314"><span class="page">Page 314</span></a> +which is not arranged with the utmost care and in accordance with +the tests of experience.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for +Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing up +the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and preparing +for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had determined +to make a better show of photographic work than had yet been +accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he was +to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at hand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier +and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous year, +of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of practicing +with their cameras, Scott and his party started off to the west on +the 15th, without having decided precisely where they were going +or how long they would stay away. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then +they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral +Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright +across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the +whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very +cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled +with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone +who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went +every few moments.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After plotting out the figures it turned out that the +<a name="page_315"><span class="page">Page 315</span></a> +movement varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation, +and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers. Though a +greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was small enough to +show that the idea of comparative stagnation was correct. On the next +day they came down the Glacier, and then went slowly up the coast, +dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed the moraine, took angles +and collected rock specimens. At Cape Bernacchi a quantity of pure +quartz was found, and in it veins of copper ore—an interesting +discovery, for it was the first find of minerals suggestive of +the possibility of working. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance +mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the +land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it suddenly +dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the land. Half +recognizing familiar features they turned towards it, and as they +got close they saw that it was very like their old Erebus Glacier +Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and realized that it was +the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue. Near the outer end +they camped, and climbing on to it soon found the depôt of +fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes planted to guide +the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly anchored, was the piece +broken from the Glacier Tongue in the previous March, a huge tract +about two miles long which had turned through half a circle, so +that the old western end was towards +<a name="page_316"><span class="page">Page 316</span></a> +the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass it is most +astonishing that it should have remained intact throughout its +sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the hut should be +placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants +would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south of Cape Evans +is now 4° miles W.N.W. of it.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig020.jpg" width="765" height="322" + alt="Figure 20"> +<br />PANORAMA AT CAPE EVANS. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig021.jpg" width="763" height="293" + alt="Figure 21"> +<br />BERG IN SOUTH BAY. +<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th, +just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along +the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been +more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they +had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although +an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled +to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started +again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time +to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features +could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of +the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound +in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M., +however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a +wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy +appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another +snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss +them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted +out. Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard +swept upon +<a name="page_317"><span class="page">Page 317</span></a> +them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly impossible +to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage to set up +the outer one. A few hours later the weather again cleared, and +as they were more or less snowed up, they decided to push for Cape +Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at 1.15 A.M., pretty +well done. The wind never let up for an instant; the temperature +remained about -16°, and the 21 statute miles which we marched +in the day must be remembered amongst the most strenuous in my +memory.... The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily +accomplished, but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realize +that I have such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern +journey. I do not think that harder men or better sledge travelers +ever took the trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realize all that +he must have done for the C. Crozier Party in their far severer +experience.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans, +everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during +his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and +found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to +the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however, +had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be +incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements +that had already been made for a geological party to go to the +west would in all probability have to be altered. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_318"><span class="page">Page 318</span></a> +All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy +at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that +Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having great +trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being harnessed +and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge. 'He is going,' +Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony, wrote, 'to be a +trial, but he is a good strong pony and should do yeoman service. +Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an ingenious +person and has been turning up new rollers out of a baulk of oak +supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small motor as a lathe. +The motors may save the situation.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became +convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also +no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and +must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss +we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face +the bad as well as the good.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual +exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean +went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same +afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line +had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there had +been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and found +himself able to hold long +<a name="page_319"><span class="page">Page 319</span></a> +conversations with Meares and Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact, +perhaps, but it seems wonderful in this primitive land to be talking +to one's fellow beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies +had arrived in fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying +the heaviest load. If we can keep the telephone going it will be +a great boon, especially to Meares later in the season.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of +photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out +to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries, +however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which time +Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from Nelson's +igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt +his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a sledge party, and +fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able to join it. Scott himself +at once hurried over the land, and found Ponting very distressed +and Clissold practically insensible. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,' +and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures. +Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the +latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,' +and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve +feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of the +berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although neither +Wilson nor Atkinson +<a name="page_320"><span class="page">Page 320</span></a> +thought that anything very serious had happened, there was no doubt +that the accident would prevent him from taking the place allotted +to him in the motor sledge party. Thus there were two men on the +sick list, and after all the trouble that had been taken to get +things ready for the summer journeys Scott naturally felt that +these misfortunes were more than a little deplorable. On the other +hand, all was going well with the ponies, though Christopher's +dislike to sledges seemed rather to increase than to lessen. When +once he was in the sledge he had always behaved himself until October +13, when he gave a really great exhibition of perversity. On this +occasion a dog frightened him, and having twisted the rope from +Oates' hands he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he +had obtained his freedom, he set about most systematically to get +rid of his load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged +two bales of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges +a better idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them +with the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell +swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned +his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short +distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his antics +had brought a small group to the scene, and presently Oates, Bowers, +Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the sledge. Undaunted, +however, by this human burden, he tried to treat it as he had the +bales of hay, and he did manage to +<a name="page_321"><span class="page">Page 321</span></a> +dispose of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into +the snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly +glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These capers +promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the Barrier may +effectually cure them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe, +but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum) +splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed +his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance, though +at the same time retaining his opinion that with more experience +they might have been of the greatest service. 'The trouble is that +if they fail, no one will ever believe this.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans +and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's +time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing. +'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always +fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the +finest character I ever met—the closer one gets to him the +more there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable; +cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, +one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal, +and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and +things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humour and really +consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think +<a name="page_322"><span class="page">Page 322</span></a> +he is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive +treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously energetic. He +is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good +deal—nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, and certainly +no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little tales +to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfishness, and his +inextinguishable good humor. He surprises always, for his intelligence +is of quite a high order and his memory for details most exceptional. +You can imagine him, as he is, an indispensable assistant to me in +every detail concerning the management and organization of our +sledding work and a delightful companion on the march. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working, +very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he +has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't +had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly +as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he +ever complained of anything in his life. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The Soldier is very popular with all—a delightfully humorous +cheery old pessimist—striving with the ponies night and day +and bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for helping +others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind +thing unobtrusively. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_323"><span class="page">Page 323</span></a> +'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses +of him in tight places. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice +characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical ability, +and I believe is about as good a man as could have been selected +for his job. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others, +though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round, +they are a perfectly excellent lot. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges and +sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility of resource +which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as sound and hard as +ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote. Crean is perfectly +happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, the harder the work, +the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. Lashly is his old +self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, abstemious +and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of people +with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such +a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most +diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another, +and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between +acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jest.... +I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit +here I am +<a name="page_324"><span class="page">Page 324</span></a> +very satisfied with these things. I think that it would have been +difficult to better the organization of the party—every man +has his work and is especially adapted for it; there is no gap +and no overlap. It is all that I desired, and the same might well +be said of the men selected to do the work.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets to +the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel fast +with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account I +decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done +had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan, +besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you. +Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you can +rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish—only I'm +afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture +much belittled. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by the +weather until October 22, but on that day the most important +stores—which were for the returning depôts and to provision +the <i>Discovery</i> hut in case the <i>Terra Nova</i> did not +arrive—were taken by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their +ponies to Glacier Tongue. Accidents, however, were still to happen, +for while Bowers was holding the ponies so +<a name="page_325"><span class="page">Page 325</span></a> +that Wilson and Evans could unload them, Victor got the hook, which +fastened the harness to the trace of another pony, into his nose. +At that moment a lot of drift swept upon them, and immediately +all three of the ponies stampeded, Snatcher making for home and +Nobby for the Western Mountains, while Victor, with Bowers still +hanging on to him, just bolted here, there and everywhere. Wilson +and P.O. Evans at once started after their ponies, and the former +by means of a biscuit as a bait managed to catch Nobby west of Tent +Island, but Snatcher arrived, with a single trace and dangling +sledge, by himself at Cape Evans. Half an hour after Wilson had +returned Bowers brought in Victor, who had a gash in his nose, and +was very much distressed. 'I don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers +managed to hang on to the frightened animal; I don't believe anyone +else would have done so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet +the animals appear they must not be left by their drivers—no +chance must be taken; secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness +must be altered in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were +to be expected, one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous +and expect them to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we +are off and can know more definitely what resources we can count on.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two +days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western +Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident +<a name="page_326"><span class="page">Page 326</span></a> +being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery while +Debenham's knee was given time to improve. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start, +but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the next +morning did they get away. At first there were frequent stops, +but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as even a +small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be enough to +show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport, and so help +to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition of animal +transport, he was intensely anxious about the result of this trial +trip. As this subject was one which was of the most supreme interest +to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an expert upon these motor +sledges. 'It has been said that Captain Scott's sledges failed, and +without further consideration the design has been totally condemned, +but this is quite unfair to the design; and it must be admitted by +everyone who has had anything to do with the sledges, and has any +sort of knowledge of mechanical principles, that it was <i>the +engine</i> that failed, not the transmission gear at all. The engine +used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one, and most unexpectedly in +the cold climate of the Antarctic it over-heated and broke various +parts, beyond possibility of repair under the severe conditions. +The reason of the breakdown therefore applies to any and every +form of motor sledge, and should a satisfactory engine be available +for one form of sledge, it is equally +<a name="page_327"><span class="page">Page 327</span></a> +available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair judgment +to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would have applied +equally to every form of motor transport which could have been +designed.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique +experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott +declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even +the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly +impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on +like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party—which +consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde—would have to +leave after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should +be wasting the season in this way. All things considered, I shall +be glad to get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote +on the 28th. And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are +just off to Hut Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave +in an hour or so as arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall +all get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with +the first chapter of our History. The future is in the lap of the +gods; I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_328"><span class="page">Page 328</span></a> +CHAPTER VII +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> + Free men freely work.<br /> +Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease.<br /> + E. B. BROWNING. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of +missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape +Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going away +with high hopes of success and for the moment everything smiles, but +where risks must be taken the result must be dependent on chance +to some extent. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have +lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all +are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result, +the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading +Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the +tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being +allowed to start, although so little confidence was still +<a name="page_329"><span class="page">Page 329</span></a> +placed in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his +own pace to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,' +but the chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the +persistently active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole +way. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat +disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good knowledge +was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and the plan of +advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start was to be +made from Hut Point in three parties—the very slow ponies, +the medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day, E. R. Evans, +Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place) were already +on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri, were to follow +the main detachments. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was +said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with +Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and +Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well together +on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who reported that +Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after Scott's party had +camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri and a small dog team, +and the cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard, +which came along in fine form with Snatcher, 'a wonderful little +beast,' leading. Christopher had given his customary exhibition when +<a name="page_330"><span class="page">Page 330</span></a> +harnessed, and although the Barrier surface had sobered him a little +it was not thought advisable for him to stop, and so the party +fled through in the wake of the advance guard, and were christened +'the through train.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says, 'we +packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like these +midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is pleasant +when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases its +heat. The two parties in front of us camped five miles beyond Safety +Camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an +hour later. All the ponies are tethered in good order, but most +of them are tired—Chinaman and Jehu <i>very tired</i>.... +A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motors +passed at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong—they have from four to +five days' lead and should surely keep it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next march they started in what for some time was to be +the settled order—Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's +at 10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting +they picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both +the motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80° 30' Lat.' But +very soon afterwards a depôt of petrol was found; and worse +was to follow, as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across +a tin bearing the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2 +cylinder broken.' Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking +sledges, &c.; and notes from E. Evans and Day to +<a name="page_331"><span class="page">Page 331</span></a> +tell the tale of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used +for Lashly's machine, and as it would have taken a long time to +strip Day's engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they +had decided to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So +the dream of help from the machines is at an end! The track of +the remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I +shall expect to see it every hour of the march.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a +bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and not +until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much confidence +in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E. Evans saying +that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day. 'They have taken +on nine bags of forage, but there are three black dots to the south +which we can only imagine are the deserted motor with its loaded +sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting party, as directed. +It is a disappointment. I had hoped better of the machines once +they got away on the Barrier Surface.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged +that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to be +the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed. Another +note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. The big +end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine was in +good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this misfortune, +'the engines are not +<a name="page_332"><span class="page">Page 332</span></a> +fitted for working in this climate, a fact that should be certainly +capable of correction. One thing is proved: the system of propulsion +is altogether satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a +man-hauling party as arranged.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls were +at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was more +than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with loads +of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as fit as +they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing of their +loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs., sledge included. +'We are all much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening +up of ponies which have been well trained; even Oates is pleased!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done in +the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their new rugs +and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could scarcely feel +the wind, and as this protection was a direct result of experience +gained in the previous year, Scott was glad to feel that some good +had been obtained from that disastrous journey. But when the snow +began to fall the ponies as usual suffered, because it was impossible +to devise any means of keeping them comfortable in thick and driving +snow. 'We men are snug and comfortable enough, but it is very evil to +lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping the strength +of the beasts on which so +<a name="page_333"><span class="page">Page 333</span></a> +much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful on such +occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon of the +7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped about +a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so soon +Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety, but +at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs would +pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face such +terrific winds. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and +the question of starting was left open for a long time, several +of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the +decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after +midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that +his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman +took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman +even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In +fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and this +not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of the ponies +halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but Christopher +had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for his tricks +and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to cling like +grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had worn off, +and this was a long rather than a light task, as even after ten +miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got the smallest +chance. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_334"><span class="page">Page 334</span></a> +A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage +and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs. +Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and although +the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it still remained +a question how the ponies would get on under harder conditions, +Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very encouraging. The +cairns built in the previous year showed up very distinctly and +were being picked up with the greatest ease, and this also was +an additional cause for satisfaction because with pony walls, camp +sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march seemed as if it +must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott says, 'Everyone +is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we camped this +morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely and the +sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. One +devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the windy +Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped, traveling +easily.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next march they remained faithful to their program of advancing +a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during the last +two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together. 'It looked +like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was Cherry-Garrard's +account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's opinion it was +clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment, because the +slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace by joining +<a name="page_335"><span class="page">Page 335</span></a> +with the others, while the fast rearguard had their speed reduced. +This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose attempt to bolt, +though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling canter, was +freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for a pony who +at the start had been thought incapable of doing a single march. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in +consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In arriving +at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong head wind, +and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading, found it +so impossible to see where he was going that he decided to camp +some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies continued +to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed distance. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A worse surface was in store for them when they started from Camp +7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst they +had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained soft, +and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft crust between +a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between these the snow lay +in sandy heaps, making altogether the most difficult conditions +for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger ponies continued to pull +excellently, and even the poor old crocks succeeded in covering +9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes one anxious in spite of the +rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these marches +to be a little difficult, but not near so bad as to-day's.... In +spite of the surface, the dogs ran up from the camp before last, +<a name="page_336"><span class="page">Page 336</span></a> +over 20 miles, in the night. They are working splendidly.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following +day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon +the last year's Bluff depôt. Here Scott found a note, from +which he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must +be the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson +had a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought, +only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic +than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days; +and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well, +Jehu especially distinguishing himself. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13, +'in a better position to know how we stand when we get to One Ton +Camp, now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these +beasts—very anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to +have been, and if they pull through well, all the thanks will be due +to Oates. I trust the weather and surface conditions will improve; +both are rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within 7 +or 8 miles of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface +and some sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although the +ponies were working splendidly, it was painful work for them to +struggle on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when harnessed +were already a thing of the past—a fact which +<a name="page_337"><span class="page">Page 337</span></a> +would have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that +his strength was also beginning to diminish. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed on +to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest there, +and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical miles (15 +statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will get through, but +that they have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering +his usually pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful +view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I think that a good many +of the beasts are actually in better form than when they started, +and that there is no need to be alarmed about the remainder, always +excepting the weak ones which we have always regarded with doubt. +Well, we must wait and see how things go.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating that +his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait for +the main detachment at Lat. 80° 30'. The minimum thermometer +left there in the previous year showed -73°, which was rather +less than Scott had expected. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger +ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over +400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of +them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion. +By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans +being victims, while Meares, when told +<a name="page_338"><span class="page">Page 338</span></a> +that his nose was 'gone,' remarked that he was tired of it and that +it would thaw out by and by! +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on such +a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on November +18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The surface is, +if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I should think +about the sort of thing we shall have to expect henceforward.... +It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the Glacier; meanwhile +we get along somehow.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of rather +bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and Chinaman +began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being re-christened +'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' Again Scott +began to take a hopeful view of getting through, unless the surfaces +became infinitely worse. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and +his party in Lat. 80° 32', and heard that they had been waiting +for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn. +All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry—an +informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was +ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough +for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision +that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification, +though even with the rations that were +<a name="page_339"><span class="page">Page 339</span></a> +to be taken he had no doubt that hunger would attack the party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party +on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should +return. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at +Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier. +'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were +to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the usual +march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies now quite +steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor Party the +procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go forward just +ahead of the crocks, the other party following two or three hours +later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the crocks must have +been going very well. However, the fiat had already gone forth, +and this morning (November 24) after the march poor old Jehu was +led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his reaching +Hut Point, it is wonderful to think that he has actually got eight +marches beyond our last year limit, and could have gone more. However, +towards the end he was pulling very little, and on the whole it is +merciful to have ended his life. Chinaman seems to improve and +will certainly last a good many days yet. I feel we ought to get +through now. Day and Hooper leave us to-night.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_340"><span class="page">Page 340</span></a> +Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much +Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was at +the loss of his pony. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged and +started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and Lashly, +went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then came Wright +with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest following close +behind them. But although the two crocks had not been given their +usual start, they stuck to their work so gallantly that at the +finish they were less than a quarter of a mile behind. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At Camp 22, in Lat. 81° 35' the Middle Barrier Depôt was +made, and as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually +getting back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their +journey was struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At +the start the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made +such heavy weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This +threw the ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six hours +were spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first part of +the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The advance +party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in keeping a +course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with a rise of +temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At this time +the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the man-haulers also +found it impossible to steer. The march of 13 miles was eventually +completed, but under +<a name="page_341"><span class="page">Page 341</span></a> +the most harassing circumstances and with very tired animals. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13 +(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can +only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a +glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired +animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright +now after the day's march.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the following +day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them, the driving snow +not only preventing them from seeing anything, but also hitting +them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was shot on this night, +but in struggling on until he was within go miles of the Glacier +he had done more than was ever expected of him; and with only four +bags of forage left the end of all the ponies was very near at +hand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82° 21', 'the most unexpected +and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased, +and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching +the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close to +them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the 29th, +'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies are tired, +but I believe all have five days' work left in them, and some a +great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be employed, rested +and fed well on the homeward track. We could really get through +now with their +<a name="page_342"><span class="page">Page 342</span></a> +help and without much delay, yet every consideration makes it desirable +to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly +hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of things.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both of +them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and if he +stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott admitted, +a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond of Snippets +as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying when on the +march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant weather with it, +but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies, with the exception +of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure. A recurrence of +'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a report) was encountered, +and the ponies very often sank nearly to their knees. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of extreme +exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce that even Nobby +had nearly reached the end of his life. On this night (December +1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility could he be much +regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at the outset, +and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength had also +disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,' Cherry-Garrard +wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A depôt, called the Southern Barrier Depôt, was left +at Camp 27, so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the +other ponies. 'Three more marches +<a name="page_343"><span class="page">Page 343</span></a> +ought to carry us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams +we <i>must</i> get through, I think. The men alone ought not to +have heavy loads on the surface, which is extremely trying.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes, and +for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but then +the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless, in Scott's +opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the thing for +ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use them from the +beginning their condition would have been very different from what +it was. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From Camp 28, Lat. 83°, Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad +weather conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. last +night meant mischief, and all day we marched in falling snow with +a horrible light.... The ponies were sinking deep in a wretched +surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission +to watch the animals, but he much preferred to lead one, so I handed +over Snippets very willingly and went on ski myself.' This he found +such easy work, that he had time to take several photographs of +the ponies as they plunged through the snow. But in the afternoon +they found a better surface, and Scott, who was leading, had to +travel at a very steady pace to keep the lead. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel, +and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage becoming +scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor—to the great sorrow of Bowers, +<a name="page_344"><span class="page">Page 344</span></a> +who was very fond of him—had to be shot. Six ponies remained, +and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of the party +reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could see their +way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey remarked on +December 15 that it was the first day for a month on which he could +not record splendid weather. With Scott's party, however, a fine +day had been the exception rather than the rule, and the journey +had been one almost perpetual fight against bad weather and bad +surfaces. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson, +Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and Crean; +(3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. 'We +have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't +thought of.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away +at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather +once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just a +chance that they might be able to march, but while they were having +breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest wind I +have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony wall was +blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts had collected. +In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the pony walls, but +the flanking wall was blown down three times before the job was +completed. About mid-day the weather improved and soon afterwards +the clouds broke and the land appeared; and when they got away at +<a name="page_345"><span class="page">Page 345</span></a> +2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But this pleasant state of +affairs was only destined to last for one short hour; after that +snow again began to fall, and marching conditions became supremely +horrible. The wind increased from the S.E., changed to S. W., where +for a time it remained, and then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and +afterwards to N.N.W., from which direction it continued to blow +with falling and drifting snow. But in spite of these rapid and +absolutely bewildering changes of conditions they managed to get +11-1/2 miles south and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however, +camped after six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a +course. 'We (Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting +snow across our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi +under them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The +whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they +continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly +placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor—we have +had all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly won +under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the forage is +lasting a little better than expected... we should have no difficulty +whatever as regards transport if only the weather was kind.' On the +following day the weather was still in a bad mood, for no sooner +had they got on their gear for the start than a thick blizzard +from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone started to build fresh +walls for the ponies, an uninviting task enough in a regular white +flowing blizzard, but one which added +<a name="page_346"><span class="page">Page 346</span></a> +greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and bored, +but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the man-haulers +came into camp, having been assisted in their course by the tracks +that the other parties had made. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M. they +were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their credit. +During this march the land was quite clearly in view, and several +uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The mountains +were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent peaks, one +or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare and almost +perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded, boulder-strewn +Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We should reach it +easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can compass 12 miles.... +We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two wretched days, but the +disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard +to the Glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days. +One has a horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However, +sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically +through with the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last +Camp (29) towards the S.S.E., where the farthest land can be seen, +it seemed more than probable that a very high latitude could be +reached on the Barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has +a stroke of luck, he may well find his summit journey reduced to +100 miles or so. In any case it is a fascinating direction for +next year's work, if only fresh transport arrives.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_347"><span class="page">Page 347</span></a> +On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing +the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had +food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have +gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael' +had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,' +Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having done +so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was just like +a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he has been a good +friend and has a good record, 83° 22' S. He was a bit done +to-day, the blizzard had knocked him.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to find a +raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had so constantly +bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery snow which is usually +an especial feature of a blizzard, but on this occasion they got +enough and to spare of it. Anyone who went into the open for a +minute or two was covered from head to foot, and as the temperature +was high the snow stuck where it fell. The heads, tails and legs +of the ponies were covered with ice, and they had to stand deep in +snow. The sledges were almost covered, and there were huge drifts +about the tent. It was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer +than he could help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they +retreated sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small +satisfaction of being able to see from one tent to another was +denied them, and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather +could mean at this +<a name="page_348"><span class="page">Page 348</span></a> +time of year, stated emphatically that no party could possibly travel +against such a wind. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance +which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, or +are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? If the +latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small party +struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go smilingly +forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of luck! No +foresight—no procedure—could have prepared us for this +state of affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or certain +of our aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig022.jpg" width="492" height="383" + alt="Figure 22"> +<br />LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPÔT. +<br /><i>Photo by R. F. Scott.</i> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig023.jpg" width="496" height="403" + alt="Figure 23"> +<br />LOOKING SOUTH FROM LOWER GLACIER DEPÔT. +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest that +Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal. And +to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained +so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow, +with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &c., +were all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles +and door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the +situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough, +however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth +quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under +which it was produced: +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +The snow is all melting and everything's afloat,<br /> +If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent<br /> + upside down and use it as a boat. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The next day Scott described as 'miserable, +<a name="page_349"><span class="page">Page 349</span></a> +utterly miserable. We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When +within twelve miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel +fortune to be held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature +at noon had risen to 33°, and everything was more soakingly wet +than ever, if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly +desolate, and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls, +tents and sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of +marching again were dashed on the following morning, when the storm +continued and the situation became most serious; after this day only +one small feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either +to march or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not +the most serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could +without doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely +was that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their +summit rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take +them on from the Glacier depôt had been begun. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its +character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an +end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move. +Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an +easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid, +and so nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for bad +weather was ample according to all experience, and this stormy +December—our finest month—is a thing that the most cautious +<a name="page_350"><span class="page">Page 350</span></a> +organizer might not have been prepared to encounter.... There cannot +be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break +out again. In the brief spell of hope last night one heard laughter.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as every +hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of their plans, +no one can wonder that they chafed over this most exasperating +delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have been melancholy +enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls of their tents and to +hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow and the ceaseless +rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when the prospect of failure +of their cherished plan was added to the acute discomforts of the +situation, it is scarcely possible to imagine how totally miserable +they must have been both in body and mind. Nevertheless in the +midst of these distressing conditions Scott managed to write, 'But +yet, after all, one can go on striving, endeavoring to find a +stimulation in the difficulties that arise.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The +snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying +in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such +circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents and dig +out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to the smallest +space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites being deep +pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting of them at +least made things more comfortable, and as the +<a name="page_351"><span class="page">Page 351</span></a> +wind dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed +signs of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow +was falling again, and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely +desperate. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during +the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed +to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees, +and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances +was anything but encouraging. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies finished, +but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite of the surface, +<i>if it comes to-morrow</i>. If it should not, we must kill the +ponies to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men on ski and +the dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on such a surface. +I much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh! for fine weather, +if only to the Glacier.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last began +really to break. The temperature also helped matters by falling +to +26°, and in consequence the water nuisance began to abate; +and at the prospect of action on the following morning cheerful +sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies look +wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they +are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left +in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all things +<a name="page_352"><span class="page">Page 352</span></a> +considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but nothing can +recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned out two or +three times to find the weather slowly improving, and at 8 o'clock +on December 9 they started upon a most terrible march to Camp 31. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and +the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could +be led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to +follow the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to +seem as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers +were pressed into the service to try and improve matters. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge and +made a track—thus most painfully a mile or so was gained. +Then when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans +saved the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon +Snatcher, who at once began to go on without much pressure, and +was followed by the other ponies. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious miles +they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added to the +difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled on, +and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending to +the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was +a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain +rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott +had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he +<a name="page_353"><span class="page">Page 353</span></a> +would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They +came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was +hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the pulling +heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. Poor beasts! +they have done wonderfully well considering the terrible circumstances +under which they worked.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all +my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow, +and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food +is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had all +my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we camped +I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses are now all +done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although the +ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance Scott had +expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that distressing +march, were relieved to know that the sufferings of their plucky +animals had at last come to an end. +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_354"><span class="page">Page 354</span></a> +CHAPTER VIII +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice<br /> +To be imprison'd in the viewless winds<br /> +And blown with restless violence round about.<br /> + —SHAKESPEARE. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized, +and for some days advanced in the following order: +</p> + +<table border="0" style="margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em;"> + <tr><td valign="top">Sledge 1.</td> + <td>Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans.</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top">Sledge 2.</td> + <td>E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.</td></tr> + <tr><td valign="top">Sledge 3.</td> + <td>Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with Meares and + Demetri continuing to drive the dogs.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="indent"> +When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads +could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success +attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was +delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they +got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's +party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised +to find it running fairly easily +<a name="page_355"><span class="page">Page 355</span></a> +behind them. The first mile was gained in about half an hour, but +then they began to rise, and soon afterwards with the slope becoming +steeper and the surface getting worse they had to take off their +ski. After this the pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for +they sank above their finnesko, and in some places nearly up to +their knees. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of ice +from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges themselves +sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they reached the +top of the slope, and after tea started on the down grade. On this +they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the upward slope, but +they could just manage to get along on ski. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace set +by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard some news +that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote, 'that Atkinson +says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly is not so fit as +he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I have not +felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march to-day +showed clearly that something was wrong.... True, the surface was +awful and growing worse every moment. It is a very serious business +if the men are going to crack up. As for myself, I never felt fitter +and my party can easily hold its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is +a tower of strength, but Oates and Wilson are doing splendidly +also.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched +<a name="page_356"><span class="page">Page 356</span></a> +the snow was appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks +to the knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to +support the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though +under ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome, +on this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow; +and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half +another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs, and +in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each sledge-load. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Before starting from Camp 32 they built a depôt (the Lower +Glacier depôt), made it very conspicuous, and left a good +deal of gear there. Then at the very beginning of their march they +got into big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses. +After four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and +then they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a +note from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might +be, but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This +is only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as +well as of old.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether +they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party went +away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make fairly +good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft patch +which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the sledge +and hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December 11, at +Camp 33, +<a name="page_357"><span class="page">Page 357</span></a> +'to treat such occasions with patience.... The great thing is to +keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were dozens +of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a few when +it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and tiring. +But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed +to the game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come +up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a +halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant; +all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but unfortunately our +history was not repeated with the other parties. Bowers came up +half an hour after us. They also had done well at the last, and +I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane is the only +weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily blind. But +Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite well, but +got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by straining again +and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from bad to worse. Their +ski shoes, too, are out of trim.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth +Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and then +the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards still +further to the west. In consequence they got a much better view +of the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's party +had obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously were +observed. On the first stage of this march Scott's party was bogged +time after time, +<a name="page_358"><span class="page">Page 358</span></a> +and do what they could their sledge dragged like a huge lump of +lead. Evans' team had been sent off in advance and kept well ahead +until lunch-time. Then, when Scott admits being 'pretty well cooked,' +the secret of their trouble was disclosed in a thin film with some +hard knots of ice on the runners of the sledge; these impediments +having been removed they went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile +or two resumed their leading position. As they advanced it became +more and more evident that, with the whole of the lower valley +filled with snow from the storm, they would have been bogged had +they been without ski. 'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if +pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee and thigh.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they rose, +but on the next march the surface became worse instead of better, +the sledges simply plunging into the soft places and stopping dead. +So slow in fact was the progress they made, that on his sledge Scott +decided at lunch to try the 10-foot runners under the cross-bars, +for the sledge was sinking so deeply that the cross-pieces were +on the surface and acting as brakes. Three hours were spent in +securing the runners, and then Scott's party started and promptly +saw what difficulties the other teams were having. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and +his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them. +But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining and +a high temperature +<a name="page_359"><span class="page">Page 359</span></a> +had become very wet and sticky, and again and again the sledge got +one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its side, and +refused to move. At the top of the rise Evans' party was reduced +to relay work, and shortly afterwards Bowers was compelled to adopt +the same plan. 'We,' Scott says, 'got our whole load through till 7 +P.M., camping time, but only with repeated halts and labour which +was altogether too strenuous. The other parties certainly cannot +get a full load along on the surface, and I much doubt if we could +continue to do so, but we must try again to-morrow. I suppose we +have advanced a bare four miles to-day and the aspect of things +is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500 feet.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35, +and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much easier +than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed without getting +along so well, and so Scott, whose party were having no difficulty +with their load, exchanged sledges with them, and a satisfactory +morning's march was followed by still better work in the afternoon, +eleven or twelve miles being gained. 'I think the soft snow trouble +is at an end, and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of +the present surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling +our load with the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along +and to find some adequate return for the work we are putting into +the business.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had +<a name="page_360"><span class="page">Page 360</span></a> +reached a height of about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the +surface steadily improved and the snow covering over the blue ice +became thinner and thinner. During the afternoon they found that +at last they could start their sledges by giving one good heave, +and so, for the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they +liked without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again +set the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard névé +were beginning to show through in places, and had not the day's +work been interrupted by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would +have been a really good one, but, as it was, eleven more miles +had to be put to their credit. The weather looked, however, very +threatening as they turned in for the night, and Scott expressed a +fervent hope that they were not going to be afflicted by snowstorms +as they approached the worst part of the glacier. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface difficult +when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their work for over ten +hours—'the limit of time to be squeezed into one day'—they +covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect of the glacier. +Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had to take them off +in the afternoon because they struck such a peculiarly difficult +surface that the sledges were constantly being brought up. Then on +foot they made better progress, though no advance could be made +without the most strenuous labour. The brittle crust would hold for +a pace or two, and then let them down with a bump, while now and +again a leg went down a crack in the hard ice underneath. So +<a name="page_361"><span class="page">Page 361</span></a> +far, since arriving among the disturbances, which increased rapidly +towards the end of the march, they had not encountered any very +alarming crevasses, though a large quantity of small ones could +be seen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For +once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof." Our +luck may be on the turn—I think we deserve it. In spite of the +hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed +and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's; +he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our +last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very bad time.... +I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due +to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the +cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip +up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on +halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that is all we want, and +we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We have worn our crampons +all day (December 17) and are delighted with them. P.O. Evans, the +inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased, and +certainly we owe him much.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day +and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was +accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers could +keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were crossing +it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold. Still, +however, they stuck most splendidly to their +<a name="page_362"><span class="page">Page 362</span></a> +task, and on the following day even a better march was made to Camp +41. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross +cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee +and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface over +which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was spent over +the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs and sketches +were taken, and continuing to make progress in the second part of +the day's march they finished up with a gain of 17 miles. 'It has +not been a strain except perhaps for me with my wounds received +early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on the march, which +has in consequence been very much pleasanter.... Days like this +put heart in one.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the previous +two days were put entirely into the shade by one of nearly 23 miles, +during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the sledges in crampons +was not at all difficult on the hard snow and on hard ice with +patches of snow. At night they camped in Lat. 84° 59' 6", and +then Scott had to perform a task that he most cordially disliked. 'I +have just told off the people to return to-morrow night: Atkinson, +Wright, Cherry-Garrard and Keohane. All are disappointed—poor +Wright rather bitterly, I fear. I dreaded this necessity of +choosing—nothing could be more heartrending. I calculated our +program to start from 85° 10' with twelve units of food[1] and +<a name="page_363"><span class="page">Page 363</span></a> +eight men. We ought to be in this position to-morrow night, less +one day's food. After all our harassing trouble one cannot but +be satisfied with such a prospect.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: A unit of food means a week's supplies for four men.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident, +was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were +frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they +were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their +tents for nearly three hours. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken +back by the returning party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on, considering +all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, otherwise +arrangements are working exactly as planned. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best +of them. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail +of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through +to the Pole. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear, +an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region. +Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness +this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I +get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which +step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one +could only go on. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the valley +out of the fog and away from +<a name="page_364"><span class="page">Page 364</span></a> +crevasses. So here we are practically on the summit and up to date +in the provision line. We ought to get through.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst crevasses, +and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The pull up +the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until 7.30 P.M. +they got off a good march and found a satisfactory place for their +depôt. Fortunately the weather was both calm and bright, and +all the various sorting arrangements that had to be made before +the returning party left them were carried out under most favorable +conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an immense relief to have +the indefatigable little Bowers to see to all detail arrangements of +this sort,' and on the following day he added, 'we said an affecting +farewell to the returning party, who have taken things very well, +dear good fellows as they are.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans; +Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their heavy +loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull them +were soon removed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his +diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and snowing +when we started after making the depôt, and the last we saw of +them as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just disappearing +over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave ahead of them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_365"><span class="page">Page 365</span></a> +Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and arrived +at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for three months. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some +time during their first march under the new conditions, but they +managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter +every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the requisite +progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next morning they +soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and pressure, that +they were compelled to haul out to the north, and then to the west. +One comfort was that all the time they were rising. 'It is rather +trying having to march so far to the west, but if we keep rising +we must come to the end of the disturbance some time.' During the +second part of this march great changes of fortune awaited them. At +first they started west up a slope, and on the top another pressure +appeared on the left, but less lofty and more snow-covered than +that which had troubled them in the morning. There was temptation +to try this, but Scott resisted it and turned west up yet another +slope, on the top of which they reached a most extraordinary surface. +Narrow crevasses, that were quite invisible, ran in all directions. +All of these crevasses were covered with a thin crust of hardened +névé which had not a sign of a crack in it. One after +another, and sometimes two at a time, they all fell in; and though +they were getting fairly accustomed to unexpected falls through +being unable to mark the run of +<a name="page_366"><span class="page">Page 366</span></a> +the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks were covered +with soft snow, they had never expected to find a hardened crust +formed over a crack, and such a surface was as puzzling as it was +dangerous and troublesome. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow +crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose +crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a +glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave place +to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every direction. +At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about 7,750 feet), 17 +miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling 'very cheerful +about everything.' 'My determination,' he said, 'to keep mounting +irrespective of course is fully justified, and I shall be indeed +surprised if we have any further difficulties with crevasses or +steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal seems really in +sight.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single +crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and Scott +confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such disturbances. +Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from crevasses—'very +hard, smooth névé between high ridges at the edge of +crevasses, and therefore very difficult to get foothold to pull +the sledges.' To remedy matters they got out their ski sticks, but +this did not prevent several of them from going half-down; while +Lashly, disappearing completely, had to be pulled out by +<a name="page_367"><span class="page">Page 367</span></a> +means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet +deep and 8 feet across, in form <b>U</b>, showing that the word +"unfathomable" can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and as +hard as nails. His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge a +better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch—at which +they had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins—was all the +more enjoyable because 8 miles or so had already been gained. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land, +but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end +of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline +down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped +and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says, +'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The +first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored +with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an +arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding; +then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and ginger. +After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I couldn't +finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept splendidly and +feel thoroughly warm—such is the effect of full feeding.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night, +was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15 +miles were covered +<a name="page_368"><span class="page">Page 368</span></a> +in the day and the 86th parallel was reached. Crevasses still appeared, +and though they avoided them on this march, they were not so lucky +during the next stage to Camp 49. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several +reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer, +and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids. +Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi +which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team +that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they +found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an +hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled +into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the +party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot allow +one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this afternoon, +one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying and tiring. +I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have not lost sight of +the sun since we came on the summit; we should get an extraordinary +record of sunshine. It is monotonous work this; the sledgemeter +and theodolite govern the situation.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather' +that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not +improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team had +<a name="page_369"><span class="page">Page 369</span></a> +not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for P.O. +Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time they +discussed the difficulties that the second party was having, and +several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the team +was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad stepping +and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's party's +sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and +his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon, +and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in soft +snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling the +sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the cause of +the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due to want +of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure has been +distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &c. The party are +not done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle with +the trouble and get it right for themselves.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about +9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which +the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on +two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises +and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were +responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was +one satisfactory result of the +<a name="page_370"><span class="page">Page 370</span></a> +march, for now that the second party had seen to the loading of +their sledge they had ceased to lag. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the +conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52, +on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a day, +make a depôt and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party +is certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage +with the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly +much worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10°.) We have caught +up Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could +persuade myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and +the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun +by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work. +Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party. +To build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special +record.' +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig024.jpg" width="773" height="496" + alt="Figure 24"> +<br />MAN HAULING CAMP, 87TH PARALLEL.<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. +H. R. Bowers.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they hoped +to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A depôt, +called 'Three Degree Depôt,' consisting of a week's provision +for both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning, +with lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while +Scott's team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate +the New Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole, +prospects +<a name="page_371"><span class="page">Page 371</span></a> +seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and on the next +evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans, Lashly and Crean +should go back after one more march. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take +it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a +five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food—practically +over a month's allowance for five people—it ought to see us +through.... Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow; +if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically +safe, I take it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January 3, +in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87° 32".' A last note from a hopeful +position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine party +going forward and arrangements are all going well.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next morning the returning men followed a little way until +Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then farewells +were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans, Crean and +Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge is a mere +nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a quick journey +back,' and under average conditions they should easily have fulfilled +anticipations. But a blizzard held them up for three days before +they reached the head of the glacier, and by the time they reached +the foot of it E. Evans had developed symptoms of scurvy. At One +Ton Camp he was unable to stand without the support of his ski +sticks, and +<a name="page_372"><span class="page">Page 372</span></a> +although, with the help of his companions, he struggled on for +53 more miles in four days, he could go no farther. Rejecting his +suggestion that he should be left alone while they pressed on for +help, Crean and Lashly pulled him on the sledge with a devotion +matching that of their captain years before, when he and Wilson had +brought Shackleton, ill and helpless, safely to the <i>Discovery</i>. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and then +there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not travel. +In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, 34 miles +away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most certainly was +the means of keeping him alive until help came. After a remarkable +march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and as soon as possible +Atkinson and Demetri started off with both dog teams to relieve +Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by persistent bad weather, +but on February 22 Evans was got back to the <i>Discovery</i> hut, +where he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson; and subsequently +he was sent by sledge to the <i>Terra Nova</i>. So ended the tale +of the last supporting party, though, as a sequel, it is good to +record that in reward for their gallant conduct both Lashly and +Crean received the Albert Medal. +</p> + +<h2> +<a name="page_373"><span class="page">Page 373</span></a> +CHAPTER IX +</h2> + +<p class="subtitle">THE SOUTH POLE</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep<br /> + As our sledge runners slid on the snow,<br /> +And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet<br /> + Struck mute like a silent blow<br /> +On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust<br /> + Shrank shivering over the floe.<br /> +And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back<br /> + Which was lost in a white fog-bow. +</td></tr> + +<tr><td> +And this was the thought that the Silence wrought,<br /> + As it scorched and froze us through,<br /> +For the secrets hidden are all forbidden<br /> + Till God means man to know.<br /> +We might be the men God meant should know<br /> + The heart of the Barrier snow,<br /> +In the heat of the sun, and the glow,<br /> + And the glare from the glistening floe,<br /> +As it scorched and froze us through and through<br /> + With the bite of the drifting snow. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by Wilson +for the <i>South Polar Times</i>. Characteristically, he sent them +in typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand and judge +them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many of their readers +confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's own premonition of +the event. The version given is the final form, as it appeared +in the <i>South Polar Times</i>.) +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the +Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers +28. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_374"><span class="page">Page 374</span></a> +After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally +anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed. +At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything was +most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon +they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose +sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they +camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott +began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely believe +that obstacles will not present themselves to make our task more +difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to trouble us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct, for +a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a constant +fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface was as bad as +it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as they advanced, +and late in the afternoon they encountered a very rough surface +with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily the sledge showed no +signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying to keep up a rate of +a little over a mile and a quarter an hour was very great. However, +they were cheered by the thought, when they reached Camp 58 (height +10,320 feet), that they were very close to the 88th parallel, and +a little more than 120 miles from the Pole. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march on +Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they advanced, +and presently +<a name="page_375"><span class="page">Page 375</span></a> +they found themselves in the midst of a sea of fishhook waves, +well remembered from their Northern experience. And, to add to +their trouble, each sastrugus was covered with a beard of sharp +branching crystals. They took off their ski and pulled on foot, +but both morning and afternoon the work of getting the sledge along +was tremendous. Writing at Camp 59, Latitude 88° 7', Scott +said, 'We think of leaving our ski here, mainly because of risk +of breakage. Over the sastrugi it is all up and down hill, and +the covering of ice crystals prevents the sledge from gliding even +on the downgrade. The sastrugi, I fear, have come to stay, and +we must be prepared for heavy marching, but in two days I hope +to lighten loads with a depôt. We are south of Shackleton's +last camp, so, I suppose, have made the most southerly camp.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that +the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the +sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched +a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating +the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion +we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly. +Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the +sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched coating +of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the shortest +they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that if things +remained for long they were, it would be impossible to keep up the +<a name="page_376"><span class="page">Page 376</span></a> +strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however, loads were to +be lightened on the following day by a weight of about 100 lbs., +and there was also hope of a better surface if only the crystal +deposit would either harden up or disappear. Their food, too, was +proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on such an excellent ration. +We really are an excellently found party.' Indeed, apart from the +strain of pulling, Scott's only anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was +that Evans had a nasty cut on his hand. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard; +but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because +he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance +of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable bags +within their double-walled tent would do none of them any harm. But, +both on account of lost time and food and the slow accumulation +of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting, +'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office to +the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to alleviate +the small pains and troubles incidental to the work; now as cook, +quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some fresh expedient +to help the camp life; tough as steel on the traces, never wavering +from start to finish. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It +is only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes +and crampons have been +<a name="page_377"><span class="page">Page 377</span></a> +absolutely indispensable, and if the original ideas were not his, +the details of manufacture and design and the good workmanship +are his alone. He is responsible for every sledge, every sledge +fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and when one cannot recall +a single expression of dissatisfaction with anyone of these items, +it shows what an invaluable assistant he has been. Now, besides +superintending the putting up of the tent, he thinks out and arranges +the packing of the sledge; it is extraordinary how neatly and handily +everything is stowed, and how much study has been given to preserving +the suppleness and good running qualities of the machine. On the +Barrier, before the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round, +correcting faults of stowage. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Little Bowers remains a marvel—he is thoroughly enjoying +himself. I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and +at all times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning +party should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute +stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single +mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the +most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to this +he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing comes +amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty to get +him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold, and he +lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long after +the others are asleep. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Of these three it is a matter for thought and +<a name="page_378"><span class="page">Page 378</span></a> +congratulation that each is specially suited for his own work, +but would not be capable of doing that of the others as well as +it is done. Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period +with the ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole +time, does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as +well as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So +our five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible +to imagine.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp, +the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface +good. So that they might keep up the average length of their daily +marches Scott wanted to leave a depôt, but as the blizzard +tended to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident +that to leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding. +However, after a terribly hard march on the following morning, +they decided to leave a depôt at the lunch camp, and there +they built a cairn and left one week's food with as many articles +of clothing as they could possibly spare. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface that +was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow, and, when +the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the slowest pace +was distressingly difficult. On that night from Camp 62, Scott wrote, +'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but it's going to be a stiff +pull <i>both ways</i> apparently; still we do make progress, which +is something.... It is very difficult to imagine what is +<a name="page_379"><span class="page">Page 379</span></a> +happening to the weather.... The clouds don't seem to come from +anywhere, form and disperse without visible reason.... The +meteorological conditions seem to point to an area of variable light +winds, and that plot will thicken as we advance.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling +was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad +as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and +the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they +had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves, +and although when they camped for the night they were only about +74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could +possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes it out +of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work before.... +Our chance still holds good if we can put the work in, but it's a +terribly trying time.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the +almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily. The +experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for Scott had +begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly weakening, +and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted a good surface +to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were within 63 miles +of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface to help them +on their way. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do +his work with characteristic +<a name="page_380"><span class="page">Page 380</span></a> +thoroughness and imperturbability; and after this appalling march +he insisted, in spite of Scott's protest, on taking sights after +they had camped—an all the more remarkable display of energy +as he, being the only one of the party who pulled on foot, had +spent an even more strenuous day than the others, who had been +'comparatively restful on ski.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might +to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and +straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did +manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which is +very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski, though +Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without tiring his +short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at Camp 66 and +less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the great difficulty +on this march, because a light southerly wind with very low drift +often prevented Scott from seeing anything, and Bowers, in Scott's +shadow, gave directions. By this time the feet of the whole party +were beginning, mainly owing to the bad condition of their finnesko, +to suffer from the cold. 'Oates seems to be feeling the cold and +fatigue more than the rest of us, but we are all very fit. It is +a critical time, but we ought to pull through.... Oh! for a few +fine days! So close it seems and only the weather to balk us.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they were +all 'pretty well done' when +<a name="page_381"><span class="page">Page 381</span></a> +they camped for lunch. There they decided to leave their last +depôt, but although their reduced load was now very light, +Scott feared that the friction would not be greatly reduced. A +pleasant surprise, however, was in store for him, as after lunch +the sledge ran very lightly, and a capital march was made. 'It is +wonderful,' he wrote on that night (January 15), 'to think that +two long marches would land us at the Pole. We left our depôt +to-day with nine days' provisions, so that it ought to be a certain +thing now, and the only appalling possibility the sight of the +Norwegian flag forestalling ours. Little Bowers continues his +indefatigable efforts to get good sights, and it is wonderful how +he works them up in his sleeping-bag in our congested tent. Only +27 miles from the Pole. We <i>ought</i> to do it now.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their +noon sight showed them in Lat. 89° 42' S.; and feeling that +the following day would see them at the Pole they started off after +lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour +or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn, +but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a +sastrugus. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we knew +that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched on, found +that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near by the remains +of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and coming and the +clear trace of dogs' paws—many dogs. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_382"><span class="page">Page 382</span></a> +This told us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us +and are first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and +I am very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and +much discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the +Pole and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All +the day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly +also the Norwegians found an easy way up.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of this +discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning (January +17) head winds with a temperature of -22° added to their depression +of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian tracks, and +in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then, as the tracks +became increasingly drifted up and were obviously leading them +too far to the west, they decided to make straight for the Pole +according to their calculations. During the march they covered +about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his journal, 'The Pole. +Yes, but under very different circumstances from those expected.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent +to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they +found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the +purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not +claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in +estimating the honours that belong to them. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig025.jpg" width="789" height="529" + alt="Figure 25"> +<br />THE PARTY AT THE SOUTH POLE. +<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_383"><span class="page">Page 383</span></a> +'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and +the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home and +a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following morning after summing up all their observations, +they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the +Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction, more +or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two miles +from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found a record +of five Norwegians having been there: +</p> + +<p class="bquote"> +'Roald Amundsen<br /> + Olav Olavson Bjaaland<br /> + Hilmer Hanssen<br /> + Sverre H. Hassel<br /> + Oscar Wisting.<br /> + —16 <i>Dec</i>. 1911. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'The tent is fine—a small compact affair supported by a single +bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward a +letter to King Haakon!' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags +of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and +sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian +artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point thermometers, +a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left a note to say I +had visited the tent with companions. Bowers photographing and +Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched 6.2 miles S.S.E. +by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch gave us 1/2 to 3/4 +<a name="page_384"><span class="page">Page 384</span></a> +of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch +-21°.) We built a cairn, put up our poor slighted Union Jack, and +photographed ourselves—mighty cold work all of it—less +than 1/2 a mile south we saw stuck up an old underrunner of a sledge. +This we commandeered as a yard for a floorcloth sail. I imagine it +was intended to mark the exact spot of the Pole as near as the +Norwegians could fix it. (Height 9,500.) A note attached talked of +the tent as being 2 miles from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. +There is no doubt that our predecessors have made thoroughly sure +of their mark and fully carried out their program. I think the Pole +is about 9,500 feet in height; this is remarkable, considering +that in Lat. 88° we were about 10,500. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and +left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy +the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on +the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz. +Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our +ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging—and +good-bye to most of the day-dreams!' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_385"><span class="page">Page 385</span></a> +CHAPTER X +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +It matters not how strait the gate,<br /> + How charged with punishments the scroll;<br /> +I am the master of my fate,<br /> + I am the Captain of my soul.—HENLEY. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole 7 +miles behind them, and early in the march on the following morning +picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn. These tracks +they followed until they came to the black flag that had been the +first means of telling them of the Norwegians' success. 'We have +picked this flag up, using the staff for our sail, and are now +camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our tracks. So that is +the last of the Norwegians for the present.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals they +marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found the cairns +that they had built; but until they reached Three Degree Depôt +which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott said, could not be +laid to rest. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next day they reached their Southern +<a name="page_386"><span class="page">Page 386</span></a> +Depôt and picked up four days' food. With the wind behind +them and with full sail they went along at a splendid rate in the +afternoon, until they were pulled up by a surface on which drifting +snow was lying in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the +ski, pulling became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad +when Bowers gets his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3,[1] 'I'm afraid +he must find these long marches very trying with short legs, but +he is an undefeated little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling +the cold and fatigue more than most of us. It is blowing pretty +hard to-night, but with a good march we have earned one good hoosh +and are very comfortable in the tent. It is everything now to keep +up a good marching pace; I trust we shall be able to do so and +catch the ship. Total march, 18-1/2 miles.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: A number preceded by R. marks the camps on the return +journey.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning, +but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for +a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand +and 45 miles between them and their next depôt, where they +had left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three +Degree Depôt. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought +to have a day or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty +with following the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight +for our watches to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks +at a pinch.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +January 22 brought an added worry in the fact +<a name="page_387"><span class="page">Page 387</span></a> +that the ski boots were beginning to show signs of wear, but this +was nothing compared with the anxiety Scott began to feel about +Evans on the following day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a +good deal run down—his fingers are badly blistered and his +nose is rather seriously congested with frequent frost-bites. He +is very much annoyed with himself, which is not a good sign. I +think Wilson, Bowers and I are as fit as possible under the +circumstances. Oates gets cold feet.... We are only about 13 miles +from our "Degree and half" Depôt and should get there tomorrow. +The weather seems to be breaking up. Pray God we have something +of a track to follow to the Three Degree Depôt—once +we pick that up we ought to be right.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so, +though only seven miles from their depôt, they were obliged +to camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect +of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey +in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from +frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from +bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach +the Half Degree Depôt, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision +to carry them the next 89 miles. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely +wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile +intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first +far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of the +second which was far on their +<a name="page_388"><span class="page">Page 388</span></a> +left. 'There is not a sign of our tracks between these cairns, +but the last, marking our night camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in +the belt of hard sastrugi, and I was comforted to see signs of the +track reappearing as we camped. I hope to goodness we can follow +it to-morrow.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these +hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on ski, +the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow the +track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the best +could only just be seen. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been +compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the +difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by +hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and +during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy +and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march +they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the +air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose +the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand, +they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch, +was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags, +although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly +but steadily getting wetter. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles +<a name="page_389"><span class="page">Page 389</span></a> +from their depôt with six days food in hand, after doing a +good march of 16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds +we shall get our depôt without trouble. I shall indeed be +glad to get it on the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is +no doubt. The lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are +pretty thin, especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked +out. I doubt if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going +with our light one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall +be glad to open out on it. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding +the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday their +position had its serious as well as its bright side, for Wilson +strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given pain +all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of pluck +over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident here. To add +to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails to-night; his +hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows signs of losing +heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the accident.... We +can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be] a mighty serious +thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three +Degree Depôt, and were able slightly to increase their rations, +though not until they reached the pony food depôt could they +look for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface, owing +to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson +<a name="page_390"><span class="page">Page 390</span></a> +walking by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling +was even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they +picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The last +thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we have +only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn, +which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper +Glacier Depôt. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that +they would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance +was having a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was +better. On the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable +anxiety. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2 until +Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same time on +a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his shoulder. +'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person added to +our tent—three out of five injured, and the most troublesome +surfaces to come. We shall be lucky if we get through without serious +injury.... The extra food is certainly helping us, but we are getting +pretty hungry.... It is time we were off the summit—Pray God +another four days will see us pretty well clear of it. Our bags +are getting very wet and we ought to have more sleep.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so +of the Upper Glacier Depôt under Mount Darwin, and after +exasperating delays in searching for +<a name="page_391"><span class="page">Page 391</span></a> +tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste no more time, but to +push due north just as fast as they could. Evans' fingers were +still very bad, and there was little hope that he would be able +for some time to help properly with the work, and on the following +day an accident that entailed the most serious consequences happened. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell into +crevasses, Evans and I together—a second fall for Evans,[1] +and I camped. After lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on +ski over hard shiny descending surface. Did very well, especially +towards end of march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not +improving in condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather +dull and incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal, +but we get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of +energy and bustle all the time.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans injured +his brain by one of these falls.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made, +but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them. Huge +pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred their way, +and so they had to steer more and more to the west on a very erratic +course. Camping-time found them still in a very disturbed region, +and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of their depôt +there seemed to be no way through the disturbances that continued +to block their path. On turning out to continue their march they +went straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at once +<a name="page_392"><span class="page">Page 392</span></a> +found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these they turned +northwards between two of them, with the result that they got into +chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled to retrace +their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the west they +got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of which they +camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended them in the +afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated that they +were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier Depôt. +'Food is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that many hours +of the day were anxious; but this evening (February 6), though we are +not so far advanced as I expected, the outlook is much more promising. +Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts and wounds suppurate, his +nose looks very bad, and altogether he shows considerable signs +of being played out. Things may mend for him on the Glacier, and +his wounds get some respite under warmer conditions. I am indeed +glad to think we shall so soon have done with plateau conditions. +It took us 27 days to reach the Pole and 21 days back—in +all 48 days—nearly 7 weeks in low temperature with almost +incessant wind.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey, opened +with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces covered +with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress during +the day, and between six and seven o'clock their depôt was +sighted and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,' +Scott wrote at R. 21, +<a name="page_393"><span class="page">Page 393</span></a> +'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp journey and most of +us are fit, but I think another week might have had a very bad +effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily downhill.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next morning they started late owing to various re-arrangements +having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin to get specimens. +As Wilson was still unable to use his ski, Bowers went on and got +several specimens of much the same type—a close-grained granite +rock which weathers red; and as soon as Bowers had rejoined the +party they skidded downhill fairly fast, Scott and Bowers (the +leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on foot alongside the sledge, +while Evans was detached. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided +to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some very +irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down towards +the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so interesting +that, after an advance of some miles had brought escape from the +wind, the decision was made to camp and spend the rest of the day +in geologising. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under +perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly and +carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with his sharp +eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last a piece of coal +with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also some excellently +preserved impressions of thick stems, +<a name="page_394"><span class="page">Page 394</span></a> +showing cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small +waves in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone +with archeo-cyathus—the trouble is one cannot imagine where +the stone comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur +in the moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether +we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being +out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I +hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions +are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of +setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly +7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a sea +voyage.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine +to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson +had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone. +The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the +Beardmore Glacier, and the labour endured in dragging the additional +35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay; +but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it. +The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous +that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved +to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to +solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this +portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult +day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for +<a name="page_395"><span class="page">Page 395</span></a> +being too tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter +had been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed. +'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food satisfies +now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and we want rest, +yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are by no means worn +out.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep +that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great +change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress, +however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow, +which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We +have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening, +'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within +two outward marches from the middle glacier depôt. However, +if the weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march +blindly on or reduce food.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the +surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until, +with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found themselves +in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to steer east, and +after struggling on for several hours found themselves in a regular +trap. Having for a short time in the earlier part of the day got +on to a good surface, they thought that all was going well and +did not reduce their lunch rations. But half an hour after lunch +they suddenly got into a terrible ice mess. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_396"><span class="page">Page 396</span></a> +For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that +they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left; +meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were moments +when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the awful turmoil +in which they found themselves. At length, arguing that there must +be a way out on the left, they plunged in that direction, only +to find that the surface was more icy and crevassed. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into crevasses +every minute—most luckily no bad accident. At length we saw +a smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but knew it was +a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in character, +irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, closely +packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy work, but +we had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and I write +after 12 hours on the march. I <i>think</i> we are on or about the +right track now, but we are still a good number of miles from the +depôt, so we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican +meals left and decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch +must serve for two if we do not make big progress. It was a test +of our endurance on the march and our fitness with small supper. +We have come through well.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well +in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two +hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night +<a name="page_397"><span class="page">Page 397</span></a> +camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their depôt), +for this showed them that they were still on the right track. In the +afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently expecting +to reach their depôt, but by a most unfortunate chance they +kept too far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses and +fissures. Afterwards their course became very erratic, and finally, +at 9 P.M., they landed in the worst place of all. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a +very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; the +depôt doubtful in locality. We <i>must</i> get there to-morrow. +Meanwhile we are cheerful with an effort.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept well +in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by his visits +outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over and snow beginning +to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting up the weather was so +thick that they had to remain in their sleeping-bags; but presently +the weather cleared enough for Scott dimly to see the land of the +Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after breakfasting off some tea +and one biscuit, so that they might leave their scanty remaining +meal for even greater emergencies, they started to march through +an awful turmoil of broken ice. In about an hour, however, they +hit upon an old moraine track where the surface was much smoother, +though the fog that was still hanging over everything added to +their difficulties. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_398"><span class="page">Page 398</span></a> +Presently Evans raised their hopes with a shout of depôt ahead, +but it proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson +suddenly saw the actual depôt flag. 'It was an immense relief, +and we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief +to all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a meal.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and closed +the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where Wilson +detached himself and made a collection, while the others advanced +with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February 13) at 'Camp +R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped late, abreast the +lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our usual satisfying +supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of the trip and gave a +horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are right, but we must march. +In future food must be worked so that we do not run so short if the +weather fails us. We mustn't get into a hole like this again.... +Bowers has had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, and Wilson +another almost as bad. Evans has no power to assist with camping +work.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days' +food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Depôt. +On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned about +the condition of the party, and especially about Evans, who seemed +to be going from bad to worse. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_399"><span class="page">Page 399</span></a> +And on the next evening, after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't +know our distance from the depôt, but imagine about 20 miles. +We are pulling for food and not very strong evidently.... We have +reduced food, also sleep; feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days +or 2 at most will see us at depôt.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their depôt, +and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety +about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly +broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from his +normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he stopped +the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold the events +of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. Perhaps all +will be well if we can get to our depôt to-morrow fairly early, +but it is anxious work with the sick man.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a +little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did, +that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in +his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had +to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft +snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners at +every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the land +hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up again, +but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again on the +same plea, and asked Bowers to lend +<a name="page_400"><span class="page">Page 400</span></a> +him a piece of string. Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly +as he could, and he gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then +the others were compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument +Rock they halted and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to +camp for lunch. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch +and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and all +four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to meet the +poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and frost-bitten +and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was the matter, he +replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought that he must have +fainted. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps +he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse. +Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while +Oates remained with him. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we got +him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.' +</p> + +<h3> +<a name="page_401"><span class="page">Page 401</span></a> +CHAPTER XI +</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">THE LAST MARCH</p> + +<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td> +Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion<br /> +through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who,<br /> +over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed<br /> +difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction,<br /> +arrogance or dishonour to the victory proposed, or to the higher<br /> +glory of unshaken defeat.—R. KIPLING. +</td></tr></table> + +<p class="indent"> +After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on +later in the night, and arrived at their depôt; there they +allowed themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles +Camp, which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty +of horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come +if they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come +with greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the +Barrier surfaces.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had +to be done in shifting sledges[1] and fitting up the new one with +a mast, &c., and in packing +<a name="page_402"><span class="page">Page 402</span></a> +horse meat and personal effects. Soon after noon, however, they +got away, and found the surface every bit as bad as they expected. +Moreover Scott's fears that there would not be much change during +the next few days were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday +afternoon they had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled +desert sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following +day, when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached +Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony meat, +but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,' Scott +wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily followed +this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope for better +things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better traveling as +we are not so fit as we were, and the season is advancing apace.' +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +[Footnote 1: Sledges were left at the chief depôts to replace +damaged ones.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and +once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away from +the land the conditions might get better; and that this improvement +should come and come soon was all the more necessary because they +were approaching a critical part of their journey, in which there +were long distances between the cairns. 'If we can tide that over +we get on the regular cairn route, and with luck should stick to +it; but everything depends on the weather. We never won a march +of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but we can't go on like +this.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_403"><span class="page">Page 403</span></a> +Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so completely +wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow during the next +stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time came without a +sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later in the day Bowers, +feeling sure that they were too far to the west, steered out, with +the result that another pony camp was passed by unseen. 'There is +little doubt we are in for a rotten critical time going home, and +the lateness of the season may make it really serious.... Looking +at the map to-night there is no doubt we are too far to the east. +With clear weather we ought to be able to correct the mistake, but +will the weather clear? It's a gloomy position, more especially as +one sees the same difficulty recurring even when we have corrected +this error. The wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in +the south, which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note +that such untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The hopes of better weather were realized during the following +day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind. +Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers took +a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came to +the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside the +tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them were +happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out. Then, +just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully +<a name="page_404"><span class="page">Page 404</span></a> +sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite +telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles +of their depôt. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather, +we cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved.... +Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of cairns, +with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of Saturday, +February 24, the depôt was reached, and there they found the +store in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall have to be +<i>very</i> saving with fuel.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in want +of more oil than they found at the depôts. Owing partly to +the severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by their +sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed for +between the depôts. The cold was unexpected, and at the same +time the actual amount of oil found at the depôts was less +than Scott anticipated. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for the +party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days on the +outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree to +Upper Glacier Depôt, took nearly eight marches as against ten, +and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans and +Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the Lower +Glacier Depôt there was little gain on the outward journey, +partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual collapse. +And from that time onward the marches +<a name="page_405"><span class="page">Page 405</span></a> +of the weary but heroic travelers became shorter and shorter. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the depôts +had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. The oil +in the warmth of the sun—for the tins were regularly set +in an accessible place on the top of the cairns—tended to +become vapour and to escape through the stoppers without damage +to the tins. This process was much hastened owing to the leather +washers about the stoppers having perished in the great cold. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The tins awaiting the Southern party at the depôts had, of +course, been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way +back could take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were +re-stoppered, they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation +and leakage, and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the shortage +which was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at the +depôt, and with ten full days' provisions from the night of +the 24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the Mid-Barrier +depôt. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful tone, 'It +is an immense relief to have picked up this depôt, and, for +the time, anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night, after pulling +on a dreadful surface and only gaining four miles, he added, 'It +really will be a bad business if we are to have this plodding all +through. I don't know what to think, but the rapid closing +<a name="page_406"><span class="page">Page 406</span></a> +of the season is ominous.... It is a race between the season and +hard conditions and our fitness and good food.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the following +day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The first double +figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But what they wanted +and what would not come was a wind to help them on their way. +Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely needed was +still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on their next march, +and were within 43 miles of their next depôt. Writing from +'R. 40. Temp. -21°' on Monday night, February 26, Scott said, +'Wonderfully fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing dries and we +get our feet cold too often. We want more food yet, and especially +more fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely hope to get a +better surface at this season, but I wish we could have some help +from the wind, though it might shake us up badly if the temp. didn't +rise.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their depôt, but hunger +was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else +except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the +dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety +at next depôt, but there is a horrid element of doubt.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at R. +42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a blightingly +cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The temperatures, +however, +<a name="page_407"><span class="page">Page 407</span></a> +which varied at this time between -30° and -42°, were chilling +them through and through, and to get their foot-gear on in the +mornings was both a painful and a long task. 'Frightfully cold +starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time on Thursday, February 29, +'luckily Bowers and Oates in their last new finnesko; keeping my +old ones for the present.... Next camp is our depôt and it +is exactly 13 miles. It ought not to take more than 1-1/2 days; +we pray for another fine one. The oil will just about spin out +in that event, and we arrive a clear day's food in hand.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On reaching the Middle Barrier Depôt, however, blow followed +blow in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began +to sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First they +found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy it +could scarcely carry them on to their next depôt, 71 miles +away. Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently +frost-bitten by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed. +And lastly the wind, which at first they had greeted with some +joy, brought dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the +temperature fell to below -40°, and on the next morning an +hour and a half was spent before they could get on their foot-gear. +'Then on an appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks, +and at lunch Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer +street since there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches and +feel the cold horribly.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Afterwards they managed to pick up the track +<a name="page_408"><span class="page">Page 408</span></a> +again, and with a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects +brightened a little; but on the next morning they had to labour +upon a surface that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals, +which were too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused +impossible friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,' +Scott wrote at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is +certain. Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what +each man feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear +in the morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day +more dangerous.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday, March +4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except a strong +drying wind, which at that time of the year was not likely to come. +At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the next depôt and +had a week's food; but in spite of the utmost economy their oil +could only last three or four days, and to pull as they were doing +and be short of food at the same time was an absolute impossibility. +For the time being the temperature had risen to -20°, but Scott +was sure that this small improvement was only temporary and feared +that Oates, at any rate, was in no state to weather more severe cold +than they were enduring. And hanging over all the other misfortunes +was the constant fear that if they did get to the next depôt +they might find the same shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I +should do if Wilson and Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful +over things.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_409"><span class="page">Page 409</span></a> +And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic +to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed +such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March 4) +consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid with +the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,' Scott +says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable resolution +it is contained in that short sentence. The result, however, was +telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially upon Oates, +whose feet were in a terrible condition when they started to march +on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them within 27 miles of +their next supply of food and fuel, but by this time poor Oates +was almost done. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more +hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none +of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest +of us Wilson is feeling them most; mainly, I fear, from his +self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot help +each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself. We get +cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the wind pierces +our worn garments. The others, all of them, are unendingly cheerful +when in the tent. We mean to see the game through with a proper +spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling harder than we ever pulled +in our lives for long hours, and to feel that the progress is so +slow. One can only say "God help us!" and plod on our weary way, +cold and +<a name="page_410"><span class="page">Page 410</span></a> +very miserable, though outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts +of subjects in the tent, not much of food now, since we decided +to take the risk of running a full ration. We simply couldn't go +hungry at this time.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and +the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate work, +were only three and a half, and the total distance for the day +was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis was near +at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only come up in +spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent.... If we were all +fit I should have hopes of getting through, but the poor Soldier +has become a terrible hindrance, though he does his utmost and +suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th, Scott added, 'A +little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet <i>very</i> bad this morning; +he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what we will do together +at home.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At this time they were 16 miles from their depôt, and if they +found the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the +surface helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the +Mt. Hooper Depôt, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp. +'We hope against hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper; then +we might pull through.... We are only kept going by good food. +No wind this morning till a chill northerly air came ahead. Sun +bright and cairns showing up well. I should like to keep the track +to the end.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time +<a name="page_411"><span class="page">Page 411</span></a> +on the 8th to within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time +spent over foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer. +'Have to wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start +changing, and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet +giving trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help +to others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the +depôt? If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good +distance, but if there is another short allowance of fuel, God +help us indeed. We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper +Depôt. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round. +I don't know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have +been our salvation have evidently failed.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting +with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return to +Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and calculating +from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson expected him to +reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There Cherry-Garrard +met four days of blizzard, with the result that when the weather +cleared he had little more than enough dog food to take the teams +home. Under these circumstances only two possible courses were +open to him, either to push south for one more march and back with +imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to stay two days +at the Camp where Scott was bound to come, +<a name="page_412"><span class="page">Page 412</span></a> +if he came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at +One Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.] +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +With the depôt reached and no relief to the situation gained, +Scott was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily downhill,' +but for the time being Oates' condition was by far the most absorbing +trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th. 'He has rare +pluck and must know that he can never get through. He asked Wilson +if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill had to say he +didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart from him, if he +went under now, I doubt whether we could get through. With great +care we might have a dog's chance, but no more.... Poor chap! it +is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot but try to cheer him up.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for +half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face +such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following +morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast +that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks. At +the most they gained little more than six miles during the day, +and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if they +got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and should +be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42, leaving +us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get no worse.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or +he will do, God only knows. We +<a name="page_413"><span class="page">Page 413</span></a> +discussed the matter after breakfast; he is a brave fine fellow +and understands the situation, but he practically asked for advice. +Nothing could be said but to urge him to march as long as he could. +One satisfactory result to the discussion: I practically ordered +Wilson to hand over the means of ending our troubles to us, so +that any of us may know how to do so. Wilson had no choice between +doing so and our ransacking the medicine case.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and +more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them +altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they +started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through +their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold, +could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made +camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly +cold.... We <i>must</i> go on, but now the making of every camp +must be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, +but a pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be +like to-morrow.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once spared +himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing could be +more pathetic and significant than the fact that at last he was +unable any longer to keep a daily record of this magnificent journey. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think +the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most +unendurable +<a name="page_414"><span class="page">Page 414</span></a> +conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable tribute to +his dead companion. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday, +poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should +leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced +him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful nature +for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night he was +worse and we knew the end had come. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last +thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride +in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold way +in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. He has +borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and to the +very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. He did +not—would not—give up hope till the very end. He was +a brave soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before +last, hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning—yesterday. +It was blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and +may be some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not +seen him since. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick +companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely +out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder +seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully removed +him at this critical moment. He died +<a name="page_415"><span class="page">Page 415</span></a> +a natural death, and we did not leave him till two hours after his +death. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though we +tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man and +an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a similar +spirit, and assuredly the end is not far. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold is +intense, -40° at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful, +but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we +constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us +believes it in his heart. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. Yesterday +we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move dreadfully slowly. +We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony marches from One Ton +Depôt. We leave here our theodolite, a camera, and Oates' +sleeping-bags. Diaries, etc., and geological specimens carried at +Wilson's special request, will be found with us or on our sledge.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within +21 miles of One Ton Depôt, but wind and drift came on and +they had to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and +we are worn out <i>nearly</i>. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes—two days ago +I was the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of +my downfall. Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with +my melted pemmican—it +<a name="page_416"><span class="page">Page 416</span></a> +gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake and in pain all night; +woke and felt done on the march; foot went and I didn't know it. A +very small measure of neglect and have a foot which is not pleasant +to contemplate. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much to +choose after all. The others are still confident of getting +through—or pretend to be—I don't know! We have the last +<i>half</i> fill of oil in our primus and a very small quantity +of spirit—this alone between us and thirst.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but after +a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin of cocoa, +they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough to get some +sleep. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against +persistent misfortune. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'<i>March</i> 19.—Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging +manner. Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the depôt +and ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two +days' food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting +bad—Wilson's best, my right foot worst, left all right. There +is no chance to nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us. +Amputation is the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble +spread? That is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us +a chance; the wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig026.jpg" width="538" height="810" + alt="Figure 26"> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_417"><span class="page">Page 417</span></a> +During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton +Depôt, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday +a severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott wrote: +'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depôt for +fuel.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23. Blizzard +bad as ever—Wilson and Bowers unable to start—to-morrow +last chance—no fuel and only one or two of food left—must +be near the end. Have decided it shall be natural—we shall +march for the depôt with or without our effects and die in +our tracks.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'<i>March</i> 29.—Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale +from W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece, +and bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been +ready to start for our depôt 11 <i>miles</i> away, but outside +the door of the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do +not think we can hope for any better things now. We shall stick +it out to the end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the +end cannot be far. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> + 'R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Last entry For God's sake look after our people.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_418"><span class="page">Page 418</span></a> +After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on March +16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson and +Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When, however, +this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to be done until +the winter was over. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party devolved +upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances showed qualities +that are beyond all praise. At the earliest possible moment (October +30) a large party started south. 'On the night of the 11th and +morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says, 'after we had marched 11 miles +due south of One Ton, we found the tent. It was an object partially +snowed up and looking like a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks +and in front of them a bamboo which probably was the mast of the +sledge... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson, +and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it +had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their +sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally close +them. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig027.jpg" width="492" height="695" + alt="Figure 27"> +<br />'THE LAST REST'. +<br />The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr. Wilson, +and Lieut. Bowers. +<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. T. Gran.</i> +</div> + +<p class="indent"> +Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag +and opened his coat. The little wallet +<a name="page_419"><span class="page">Page 419</span></a> +containing the three notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm +flung across Wilson. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological +specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore +Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the +very end, though disaster stared them in the face. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the +outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well +into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed, and +on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in the snow. +Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was placed, containing +a metal cylinder, and in this the following record was left: +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross +and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O., +R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant H. +R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine—a slight token to perpetuate +their successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This they +did on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition had already +done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was the cause of their +death. Also to commemorate their two gallant comrades, Captain L. +E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons, who walked to his death +in a blizzard to +<a name="page_420"><span class="page">Page 420</span></a> +save his comrades about eighteen miles south of this position; +also of Seaman Edgar Evans, who died at the foot of the Beardmore +Glacier. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away; blessed be the name of +the Lord."' +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_421"><span class="page">Page 421</span></a> +With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:— +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To Mrs. E. A. Wilson</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR MRS. WILSON, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together. +We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid +he was at the end—everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice +himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him +into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor +discomforts. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is peaceful +with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself as part +of the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to comfort +you than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, true +man—the best of comrades and staunchest of friends. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My whole heart goes out to you in pity. +</p> + +<p> + Yours,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To Mrs. Bowers</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR MRS. BOWERS, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows +of your life. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am +finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of +these is your son. He +<a name="page_422"><span class="page">Page 422</span></a> +had come be one of my closest and soundest friends, and I appreciate +his wonderful upright nature, his ability and energy. As the troubles +have thickened his dauntless spirit ever shone brighter and he has +remained cheerful, hopeful, and indomitable to the end. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some reason +why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My whole heart goes out in pity for you. +</p> + +<p> + Yours,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what a +happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look back +on nothing but happiness. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the +end, believing in God's mercy to you. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To Sir J. M. Barrie</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR BARRIE, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter +may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell.... More +practically I want you to help my widow and my boy—your godson. +We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold spirit, +fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have accomplished +our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have done everything +<a name="page_423"><span class="page">Page 423</span></a> +possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to save sick +companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen of the +future, and that the country ought to help those who are left behind +to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson, Wilson leaves +a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble circumstances. Do +what you can to get their claims recognized. Goodbye. I am not +at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many a humble pleasure +which I had planned for the future on our long marches. I may not +have proved a great explorer, but we have done the greatest march +ever made and come very near to great success. Goodbye, my dear +friend. +</p> + +<p> + Yours ever,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long +way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent, +to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will +do when we get to Hut Point. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>Later</i>.—We are very near the end, but have not and +will not lose our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our +tent and no where's food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves +when things proved like this, but we have decided to die naturally +in the track. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. Give +the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought to have +good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom I admired and +<a name="page_424"><span class="page">Page 424</span></a> +loved more than you, but I never could show you how much your friendship +meant to me, for you had much to give and I nothing. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart.</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5°. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR SIR EDGAR, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves +the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and +we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave +behind. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your +generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we stuck +by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the end. I +think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power to +endure has not passed out of our race.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself +again and again to the sick men of the party.... +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some +time after we are found next year. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it, +but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is +to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we +have lacked support. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife. +</p> + +<p> + Yours ever sincerely,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_425"><span class="page">Page 425</span></a> +<i>To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B.</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR SIR FRANCIS, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few letters +which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank you for +the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you how +extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I want +to tell you that I was <i>not</i> too old for this job. It was +the younger men that went under first.... After all we are setting +a good example to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight +place, by facing it like men when we were there. We could have +come through had we neglected the sick. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman. +</p> + +<p> + Yours ever,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Excuse writing—it is -40°; and has been for nigh a month. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B.</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My DEAR SIR GEORGE, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I fear we have shot our bolt—but we have been to Pole and +done the longest journey on record. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I hope these letters may find their destination some day. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness +of different members of the party, but +<a name="page_426"><span class="page">Page 426</span></a> +the real thing that has stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected +cold towards the end of the journey. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe +as any experience we had on the summit. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my +calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the +base and petering out. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty +is concerned. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your +kindness. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<i>To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch.</i> +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +March 24th, 1912. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +MY DEAR KINSEY, +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I'm afraid we are pretty well done—four days of blizzard just +as we were getting to the last dopôt. My thoughts have been +with you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition +through, I'm sure. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can for +them if the country won't. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know +the circumstances well enough. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have little +to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country need +not be ashamed of us—our +<a name="page_427"><span class="page">Page 427</span></a> +journey has been the biggest on record, and nothing but the most +exceptional hard luck at the end would have caused us to fail to +return. We have been to the S. pole as we set out. God bless you +and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is good to remember you and your kindness. +</p> + +<p> + Your friend,<br /> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William +Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs. +Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following extracts: +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow +to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort +in that I die at peace with the world and myself—not afraid. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks I +have taken never seemed excessive. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a narrow +margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a journey.... +After all, we have given our lives for our country—we have +actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been the +first Englishmen at the South Pole. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +You must understand that it is too cold to write much. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail +of equipment is right. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_428"><span class="page">Page 428</span></a> +I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh from +harness and full of good health and vigour. This is decided +already—when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless +we are within easy distance of another depôt. Therefore you +must not imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course, +and have been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and +our appetites compensate for all discomfort. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depôt, +with one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got through +but have been held for <i>four</i> days by a frightful storm. I think +the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill ourselves, +but to fight to the last for that depôt, but in the fighting +there is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable must be +faced. You urged me to be leader of this party, and I know you +felt it would be dangerous. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is better +than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know you will +keep him in the open air. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence. +Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous +as you know—had always an inclination to be idle. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole in +my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and other +trifles. Send a small +<a name="page_429"><span class="page">Page 429</span></a> +piece of the Union Jack to the King and a small piece to Queen +Alexandra. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much better +has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. What tales +you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his +putting me in command of the <i>Discovery</i>. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +<a name="page_430"><span class="page">Page 430</span></a> +MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization, but +to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken. +</p> + +<ol> + +<li>The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start +later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff +transported to be narrowed.</li> + +<li>The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially +the long gale in 83° S., stopped us.</li> + +<li>The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace.</li> + +</ol> + +<p class="indent"> +We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but it +cut into our provision reserve. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depôts made +on the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles +to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party +would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus +of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had +least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man +of the party. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on +our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this with +a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and Edgar +Evans received a concussion of +<a name="page_431"><span class="page">Page 431</span></a> +the brain—he died a natural death, but left us a shaken party +with the season unduly advanced. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise +which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements +for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world would +have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we encountered +at this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85°, 86° +we had -20°, -30°. On the Barrier in lat. 82°, 10,000 +feet lower, we had -30° in the day, -47° at night pretty +regularly, with continuous head wind during our day marches. It +is clear that these circumstances come on very suddenly, and our +wreck is certainly due to this sudden advent of severe weather, +which does not seem to have any satisfactory cause. I do not think +human beings ever came through such a month as we have come through, +and we should have got through in spite of the weather but for the +sickening of a second companion, Captain Oates, and a shortage of +fuel in our depôts for which I cannot account, and finally, +but for the storm which has fallen on us within 11 miles of the +depôt at which we hoped to secure our final supplies. Surely +misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last blow. We arrived +within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel for one last meal +and food for two days. For four days we have been unable to leave +the tent—the gale howling about us. We are weak, writing is +difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this journey, +<a name="page_432"><span class="page">Page 432</span></a> +which has shewn that Englishmen can endure hardships, help one +another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the +past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out +against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but bow to +the will of Providence, determined still to do our best to the last. +But if we have been willing to give our lives to this enterprise, +which is for the honour of our country, I appeal to our countrymen +to see that those who depend on us are properly cared for. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> +Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, +endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the +heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must +tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours +will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided +for. +</p> + +<p class="indent"> + R. SCOTT. +</p> + +<div class="image"> +<img src="images/fig028.jpg" width="648" height="838" + alt="Figure 28"> +<br />British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart +of main southern journey. +</div> + +<h2><a name="index">INDEX</a></h2> + +<p class="index">Abbott, George P., P.O. <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p> + +<p class="index">Adélie Land <a href="#page_35">35</a></p> + +<p class="index">Admiralty, the, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, +<a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_182">182-3</a>, +<a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Alaska <a href="#page_11">11</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Albemarle</i>, H.M.S., +<a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Albert Medal, the, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p> + +<p class="index">Alexandra, Queen, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, +<a href="#page_429">429</a></p> + +<p class="index">Alpine Rope, <a href="#page_256">256-7</a>, +<a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, +<a href="#page_367">367</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Amphion</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_11">11</a></p> + +<p class="index">Amundsen, Roald, <a href="#page_259">259-60</a>, +<a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, +<a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, +<a href="#page_428">428</a></p> + +<p class="index">Anton, Groom, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, +<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a></p> + +<p class="index">Archer, W. W., chief steward, +<a href="#page_209">209</a></p> + +<p class="index">Armitage, Lieut. A. B., <a href="#page_25">25</a>, +<a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, +<a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, +<a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, +<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_153">153-4</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p> + +<p class="index">Arnold, M., <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, +<a href="#page_178">178</a></p> + +<p class="index">Arrival Bay, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br /> +Heights, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p> + +<p class="index">Athletic sports, <a href="#page_137">137-8</a></p> + +<p class="index">Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, +<a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, +<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279-80</a>, +<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, +<a href="#page_295">295</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_320">320-1</a>, +<a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, +<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, +<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_362">362-3</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>, +<a href="#page_418">418-19</a></p> + +<p class="index">Auckland Islands, <a href="#page_195">195</a></p> + +<p class="index">Australia, Government of, +<a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Balaclave helmets, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p> + +<p class="index">Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J., <a href="#page_16">16</a></p> + +<p class="index">Balleny, Capt. John, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> +Islands, <a href="#page_196">196-7</a></p> + +<p class="index">Balloons, ascents of, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, +<a href="#page_281">281</a></p> + +<p class="index">Barne, Lieut. Michael, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, +<a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, +<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, +<a href="#page_98">98-9</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, +<a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, +<a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_131">131-2</a>, +<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, +<a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> +Glacier, <a href="#page_275">275</a></p> + +<p class="index">Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to, +<a href="#page_422">422-4</a></p> + +<p class="index">Barrier, Great Ice, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, +<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224-5</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, +<a href="#page_260">260</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, +<a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bay of Whales, <a href="#page_259">259-60</a></p> + +<p class="index">Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis, +<a href="#page_427">427</a></p> + +<p class="index">Beppo, pony, <a href="#page_7">7</a></p> + +<p class="index">Berlin, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, +<a href="#page_20">20</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist, +<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, +<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, +<a href="#page_85">85-6</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, +<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a></p> + +<p class="index">Birdie, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, +<a href="#page_126">126</a></p> + +<p class="index">Birthday, celebrations of, +<a href="#page_286">286-7</a></p> + +<p class="index">Biscay, Bay of, <a href="#page_32">32</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bismarck, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bjaaland, Olav Olavson, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p> + +<p class="index">Blanco, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Blissett, A. H., <a href="#page_132">132</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Blizzard, The</i>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></p> + +<p class="index">Blossom, pony, <a href="#page_250">250</a></p> + +<p class="index">Blucher, pony, <a href="#page_248">248</a>, +<a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bluff, The, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> +Camp, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></p> + +<p class="index">Boats, mishap to, <a href="#page_84">84</a>, +<a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, +<a href="#page_140">140</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bones, pony, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bonner, Charles, <a href="#page_38">38-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Borchgrevink, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p> + +<p class="index">Boss, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bowers, Lieut. H. R., <a href="#page_28">28</a>, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_230">230-1</a>, +<a href="#page_234">234-236</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, +<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, +<a href="#page_250">250-4</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-7</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_278">278-81</a>, +<a href="#page_283">283-4</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, +<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_293">293-5</a>, +<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-8</a>, +<a href="#page_311">311-14</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, +<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, +<a href="#page_322">322</a>, <a href="#page_324">324-5</a>, +<a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-5</a>, +<a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, +<a href="#page_357">357-8</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, +<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, +<a href="#page_371">371</a>, +<a href="#page_373">373</a> <i>seq.</i></p> + +<p class="index">Bowers, Mrs., letter to, +<a href="#page_421">421-2</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to, +<a href="#page_425">425</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Britannia, The</i>, <a href="#page_6">6</a></p> + +<p class="index">British Museum, the, <a href="#page_19">19</a></p> + +<p class="index">Brownie, dog, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, +<a href="#page_108">108-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Browning, E. B., <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_328">328</a></p> + +<p class="index">Browning, Frank V., P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bruce, Canon Lloyd, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bruce, Kathleen, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224</a></p> + +<p class="index">Buckingham Palace Road, <a href="#page_15">15</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Bulwark</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Burlington House, <a href="#page_19">19</a></p> + +<p class="index">Butter Point, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A., +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, +<a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, +<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, +<a href="#page_240">240-1</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, +<a href="#page_259">259-60</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, +<a href="#page_315">315</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cape Adare, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, +<a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, +<a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> +Armitage, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, +<a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, +<a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> +Bernacchi, <a href="#page_315">315</a><br /> +Bird, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> +Crozier, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, +<a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>, +<a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, +<a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, +<a href="#page_141">141-2</a>, <a href="#page_155">155-6</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_222">222-3</a>, +<a href="#page_281">281</a><br /> +Crozier Party, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, +<a href="#page_300">300-7</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a><br /> +Evans, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, +<a href="#page_234">234-5</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, +<a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, +<a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_271">271-3</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, +<a href="#page_316">316-17</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a>, +<a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a><br /> +Jones, <a href="#page_48">48</a><br /> +Mackay, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> +North, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, +<a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, +<a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> +of Good Hope, <a href="#page_32">32-3</a><br /> +Royds, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, +<a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> +Sibbald, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> +Wadworth, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br /> +Washington, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cardiff, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a +href="#page_211">211</a></p> + +<p class="index">Castle Rock, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, +<a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>, +<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain, +<a href="#page_209">209</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist, +<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_251">251-2</a>, +<a href="#page_254">254-6</a>, <a href="#page_257">257-8</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261-6</a>, <a href="#page_270">270-1</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279-81</a>, +<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>, +<a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-7</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>, +<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, +<a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, +<a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, +<a href="#page_411">411-12</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p> + +<p class="index">Chinaman, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_329">329-30</a>, +<a href="#page_332">332-3</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, +<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_340">340-41</a></p> + +<p class="index">Christiania, <a href="#page_89">89</a></p> + +<p class="index">Christopher, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, +<a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p> + +<p class="index">Clarke, Charles, ship's cook, +<a href="#page_179">179</a></p> + +<p class="index">Clissold, Thomas, cook, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, +<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a>, +<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></p> + +<p class="index">Coal, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, +<a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, +<a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_218">218-19</a>, +<a href="#page_220">220</a></p> + +<p class="index">Colbeck, Captain William, +<a href="#page_141">141-2</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, +<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_182">182-3</a>, +<a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, +<a href="#page_198">198</a></p> + +<p class="index">Coleridge, <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_211">211</a></p> + +<p class="index">Colville, Rear-Admiral, <a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Commonwealth Range, <a href="#page_357">357</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cook, Capt. James, <a href="#page_31">31</a></p> + +<p class="index">Corner Camp, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a></p> + +<p class="index">Coulman Islands, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, +<a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p> + +<p class="index">Crater Heights, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, +<a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> +Hill, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, +<a href="#page_88">88</a></p> + +<p class="index">Crean, Thomas, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, +<a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, +<a href="#page_262">262-5</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_278">278-80</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, +<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, +<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_370">370-2</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cross, Jacob, P.O., <a href="#page_48">48</a>, +<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_155">155-6</a></p> + +<p class="index">'Cruise of the <i>Beagle</i>,' +<a href="#page_162">162</a></p> + +<p class="index">Cuts, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, +<a href="#page_264">264</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Dailey, F. E., carpenter, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, +<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></p> + +<p class="index">Darwin, Charles, <a href="#page_162">162</a></p> + +<p class="index">Day, Bernard C., motor engineer, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_276">276-7</a>, +<a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_290">290-1</a>, +<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_330">330-1</a>, +<a href="#page_339">339</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a></p> + +<p class="index">Debenham, Frank, geologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_281">281-2</a>, +<a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325-6</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer, +<a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> +Islets, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p> + +<p class="index">Demetri, dog driver, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278-9</a>, +<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>, +<a href="#page_418">418</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dennistoun, James R., <a href="#page_209">209</a></p> + +<p class="index">Depôt Nunatak, <a href="#page_171">171</a></p> + +<p class="index">Desolation Camp, <i>Discovery</i> Expedition, +<a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> +Last Expedition, <a href="#page_402">402</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dickason, Harry, A.B., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Discovery</i>, the fifth, +<a href="#page_21">21</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dog food, <a href="#page_109">109</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dogs, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, +<a href="#page_71">71-2</a>, <a href="#page_95">95-7</a>, +<a href="#page_107">107</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_212">212-13</a>, +<a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, +<a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, +<a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a> +<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, +<a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_411">411</a></p> + +<p class="index">Douglas, Sir Archibald, <a href="#page_18">18</a></p> + +<p class="index">Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster, +<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p> + +<p class="index">Dundee, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, +<a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> +Shipbuilding Company, <a href="#page_17">17</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">East India Docks, <a href="#page_20">20</a></p> + +<p class="index">Edward VII, King, <a href="#page_31">31</a></p> + +<p class="index">Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B., +<a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, +<a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_425">425-6</a> (letter +to)</p> + +<p class="index">Enderby Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p> + +<p class="index">Entertainments, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, +<a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a></p> + +<p class="index">Erebus Tongue, <a href="#page_315">315</a></p> + +<p class="index">Esquimault. B.C., <a href="#page_11">11</a></p> + +<p class="index">Esquimaux, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, +<a href="#page_307">307</a></p> + +<p class="index">Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R., <a href="#page_208">208</a>, +<a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_223">223-5</a>, +<a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242-3</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, +<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, +<a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, +<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_330">330-1</a>, +<a href="#page_337">337-40</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_357">357-9</a>, +<a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, +<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, +<a href="#page_370">370-2</a></p> + +<p class="index">Evans, P.O., <a href="#page_63">63</a>, +<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_67">67-8</a>, +<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_178">178-9</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, +<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_311">311-12</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, +<a href="#page_323">323-4</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, +<a href="#page_369">369</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Falkland Islands, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p> + +<p class="index">Feather, Thomas A., boatswain, +<a href="#page_100">100-1</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, +<a href="#page_164">164-5</a></p> + +<p class="index">Fefer, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ferrar, Hartley T., <a href="#page_27">27</a>, +<a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, +<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, +<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> +Glacier, <a href="#page_152">152-3</a>, +<a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_158">158-9</a>, +<a href="#page_314">314</a></p> + +<p class="index">Finance Committee, <a href="#page_17">17-18</a></p> + +<p class="index">Fire, alarm of, <a href="#page_32">32</a></p> + +<p class="index">Fisher, Admiral Sir John, <a href="#page_10">10</a></p> + +<p class="index">Fitzclarence, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Football, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a></p> + +<p class="index">Forde, Robert, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>, +<a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, +<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Fram</i>, the, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, +<a href="#page_21">21</a></p> + +<p class="index">Franklin Island, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p> + +<p class="index">Franz-Josef Land, <a href="#page_25">25</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Gap, the, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, +<a href="#page_234">234</a></p> + +<p class="index">Gateway, the, <a href="#page_352">352</a></p> + +<p class="index">Geological specimens, <a href="#page_393">393-4</a>, +<a href="#page_398">398</a>, <a href="#page_419">419</a></p> + +<p class="index">Gerof, Demetri. <i>See</i> Demetri</p> + +<p class="index">Glacier, the Beardmore, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, +<a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, +<a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, +<a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_419">419-20</a></p> + +<p class="index">Glacier Depôt, <a href="#page_349">349</a>, +<a href="#page_352">352</a><br /> +Tongue, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, +<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-41</a>, +<a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, +<a href="#page_315">315-16</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a></p> + +<p class="index">Gran Tryggve, ski expert, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, +<a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, +<a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-2</a>, +<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, +<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_295">295-6</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, +<a href="#page_327">327</a></p> + +<p class="index">Granite Harbor, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, +<a href="#page_51">51</a></p> + +<p class="index">Grannie, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Gus, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, +<a href="#page_125">125</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Haakon, King, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hackenschmidt, pony, <a href="#page_276">276</a></p> + +<p class="index">Half-Degree Depôt, <a +href="#page_387">387</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hamilton, B. T., <a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hampton Court Palace, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Handsley. Jesse, A.B., <a href="#page_153">153</a>, +<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_164">164-5</a>, +<a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_178">178-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hanson, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hanssen, Hilmer, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hare, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, +<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_68">68-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hassel, Sverre H., <a href="#page_383">383</a></p> + +<p class="index">Heald, William L., A.B., <a href="#page_62">62</a>, +<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_210">210</a></p> + +<p class="index">Henley, W. E., <i>quoted</i>, <a +href="#page_385">385</a></p> + +<p class="index">'Hints to Travelers', <a href="#page_159">159-60</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hobart Town, <a href="#page_182">182</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hockey, <a href="#page_149">149</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hodgson, Thomas V., <a href="#page_25">25</a>, +<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, +<a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hooper, F. J., steward, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, +<a href="#page_339">339-40</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hoskins, Sir Anthony, <a href="#page_18">18</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hut, the <i>Discovery</i>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, +<a href="#page_85">85-86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, +<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, +<a href="#page_269">269</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br /> +at Cape Evans, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, +<a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_275">275</a> <i>seq.</i><br /> +Point, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, +<a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, +<a href="#page_190">190-1</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, +<a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_242">242-3</a>, +<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_260">260-3</a>, +<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, +<a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, +<a href="#page_327">327-9</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>, +<a href="#page_411">411</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p> + +<p class="index">Hutton Rocks, <a href="#page_273">273</a></p> + +<p class="index">Huxley, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Icebergs, <a href="#page_44">44</a></p> + +<p class="index">Inaccessible Island, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, +<a href="#page_316">316</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, +<a href="#page_25">25</a></p> + +<p class="index">Jehu, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_328">328-9</a>, +<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_332">332-6</a>, +<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a></p> + +<p class="index">Jim, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, +<a href="#page_125">125-6</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a></p> + +<p class="index">Joe, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Kennar, Thomas, P.O., <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_159">159</a></p> + +<p class="index">Keohane, Patrick, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, +<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, +<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a>, +<a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p> + +<p class="index">Kid, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, +<a href="#page_125">125</a></p> + +<p class="index">King Edward's Island, <a href="#page_56">56</a>, +<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a></p> + +<p class="index">Kinsey, J. J., letter to, +<a href="#page_426">426-7</a></p> + +<p class="index">Kipling, Rudyard, <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_401">401</a></p> + +<p class="index">Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist, +<a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, +<a href="#page_61">61</a>, <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, +<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Lantaret, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lashly, William, leading stoker, +<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, +<a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, +<a href="#page_165">165</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, +<a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, +<a href="#page_278">278-9</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, +<a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, +<a href="#page_340">340</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, +<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_366">366-7</a>, +<a href="#page_369">369</a>, <a href="#page_371">371-2</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lectures, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, +<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, +<a href="#page_307">307-8</a></p> + +<p class="index">Levick, G. Murray, surgeon, R.N., +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lewis, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, +<a href="#page_126">126</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lillehammer, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lillie, Denis G., biologist, <a +href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></p> + +<p class="index">London Docks, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, +<a href="#page_141">141</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lower Glacier Depôt, <a href="#page_356">356</a>, +<a href="#page_398">398</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p> + +<p class="index">Lyttelton, <a href="#page_37">37-8</a>, +<a href="#page_211">211-12</a><br /> +Heads, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Macartney, Sir William Ellison, +<a href="#page_427">427</a></p> + +<p class="index">Mackay, Captain Harry, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, +<a href="#page_190">190</a></p> + +<p class="index">Macquarie Island, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, +<a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a></p> + +<p class="index">Magnetic huts, <a href="#page_75">75</a><br /> +Observatory, <a href="#page_23">23</a></p> + +<p class="index">Magnetism, <a href="#page_75">75</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Majestic</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_15">15</a>, +<a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, +<a href="#page_27">27</a></p> + +<p class="index">Markham, Sir Clements, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, +<a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, +<a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, +<a href="#page_203">203</a> <i>seq.</i> (preface), +<a href="#page_429">429</a></p> + +<p class="index">Markham, Lady, <a href="#page_20">20</a></p> + +<p class="index">McMurdo Sound, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, +<a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, +<a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, +<a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, +<a href="#page_260">260</a></p> + +<p class="index">Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, +<a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_232">232-4</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, +<a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_242">242-4</a>, +<a href="#page_246">246-8</a>, <a href="#page_251">251-2</a>, +<a href="#page_254">254-8</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, +<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, +<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, +<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_311">311-12</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, +<a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, +<a href="#page_356">356</a></p> + +<p class="index">Merchant Shipping Act, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p> + +<p class="index">Meridians, <a href="#page_217">217</a></p> + +<p class="index">Message to the public, +<a href="#page_430">430-2</a></p> + +<p class="index">Meteorological observations, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, +<a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, +<a href="#page_84">84</a><br /> +screens, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a></p> + +<p class="index">Michael, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_347">347</a></p> + +<p class="index">Middle Barrier Depôt, +<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>, +<a href="#page_407">407</a></p> + +<p class="index">Midwinter celebrations, +<a href="#page_290">290-3</a></p> + +<p class="index">Milton, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_254">254</a></p> + +<p class="index">Monument Rock, <a href="#page_400">400</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Morning</i>, the, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, +<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, +<a href="#page_141">141-6</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p> + +<p class="index">Motor sledges, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, +<a href="#page_226">226-30</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, +<a href="#page_312">312-13</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329-30</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a></p> + +<p class="index">Mount Buckley, <a href="#page_393">393-4</a><br /> +Cloudmaker, <a href="#page_357">357-98</a><br /> +Darwin, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a>, +<a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a><br /> +Discovery, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> +Erebus, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, +<a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br /> +Hooper Depôt, <a href="#page_410">410</a>, +<a href="#page_411">411</a><br /> +Hope, <a href="#page_346">346</a><br /> +Longstaff, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> +Markham, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> +Melbourne, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> +Monteagle, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> +Murchison, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> +Sabine, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> +Terror, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> +Whewell, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> + +<p class="index">Mulock, Lieut. George F. A., <a href="#page_27">27</a>, +<a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, +<a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, +<a href="#page_197">197</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Nansen, Dr., <a href="#page_17">17</a>, +<a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, +<a href="#page_89">89</a></p> + +<p class="index">Naval Discipline Act, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p> + +<p class="index">Nell, dog, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, +<a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, <a href="#page_125">125-6</a>, +<a href="#page_129">129</a></p> + +<p class="index">Nelson, Edward W., biologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, +<a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276-7</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_319">319-20</a></p> + +<p class="index">Newbolt, Henry, <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_31">31</a></p> + +<p class="index">New Harbor, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, +<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a></p> + +<p class="index">Newnes, Sir George, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p> + +<p class="index">New Zealand, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, +<a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, +<a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a></p> + +<p class="index">New Zealand, Government of, +<a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Nigger, dog, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, +<a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, <a href="#page_125">125-6</a>, +<a href="#page_129">129</a></p> + +<p class="index">Nobby, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, +<a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_342">342-3</a>, +<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_353">353</a></p> + +<p class="index">Northern Party, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242-3</a></p> + +<p class="index">Norway, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, +<a href="#page_89">89</a></p> + +<p class="index">Norwegians, the, <a href="#page_384">384-5</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G., +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, +<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-40</a>, +<a href="#page_241">241</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_248">248-9</a>, +<a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261-2</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, +<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, +<a href="#page_279">279-80</a>, +<a href="#page_284">284-5</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318-20</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, +<a href="#page_336">336-7</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-4</a>, +<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, +<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a> <i>seq.</i></p> + +<p class="index">Outlands, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, +<a href="#page_5">5</a></p> + +<p class="index">Observatory Hill, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, +<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p> + +<p class="index">Oil, shortage of, <a href="#page_404">404-5</a>, +<a href="#page_408">408</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>, +<a href="#page_416">416</a></p> + +<p class="index">'Old Mooney,' <a href="#page_6">6</a>, +<a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_9">9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Omelchenko, Anton. <i>See</i> Anton</p> + +<p class="index">One Ton Camp, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, +<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>, +<a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_410">410-11</a>, +<a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, +<a href="#page_417">417</a></p> + +<p class="index">Osman, dog, <a href="#page_255">255-6</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">P. and O. Company, <a href="#page_25">25</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pack-ice, <a href="#page_35">35</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, +<a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, +<a href="#page_216">216</a>-17, <a href="#page_218">218</a></p> + +<p class="index">Parry Mountains, <a href="#page_54">54</a></p> + +<p class="index">Peary, Lieutenant, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p> + +<p class="index">Penguins, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, +<a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, +<a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> +Emperor, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, +<a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, +<a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, +<a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, +<a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> +King, <a href="#page_36">36</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L., <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, +<a href="#page_238">238</a></p> + +<p class="index">Petrels, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> +Antarctic, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> +Giant, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> +Southern Fulmar, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> +White Snow, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> +Wilson stormy, <a href="#page_35">35</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pigg, James, pony, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, +<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, +<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, +<a href="#page_342">342</a></p> + +<p class="index">Plumley, Frank, stoker, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, +<a href="#page_157">157</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pole, the South, <a href="#page_382">382</a> +<i>seq.</i><br /> +Camp, <a href="#page_384">384</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ponies, the, <a href="#page_212">212-15</a>, +<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, +<a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, +<a href="#page_243">243</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_263">263-7</a>, +<a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a> <i>seq.</i></p> + +<p class="index">Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, +<a href="#page_227">227-8</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_276">276-7</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, +<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, +<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, +<a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></p> + +<p class="index">Port Chalmers, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, +<a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, +<a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> +Ross, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> +Stanley, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p> + +<p class="index">Possession Islands, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pram Point, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, +<a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> +Bay, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> +Ridges, <a href="#page_267">267</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>President</i>, H.M.S., +<a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Pressure Ridges, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p> + +<p class="index">Priestley, Raymond E., geologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p> + +<p class="index">Proverbs, <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_137">137</a></p> + +<p class="index">Punch, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, +<a href="#page_266">266</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker, +<a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, +<a href="#page_67">67-8</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_175">175</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Razor Back Islands, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, +<a href="#page_274">274</a></p> + +<p class="index">Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P., +<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p> + +<p class="index">Roberston Bay, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, +<a href="#page_195">195</a></p> + +<p class="index">Rodd, Sir Rennell, <i>quoted</i>, +<a href="#page_231">231</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ross, Sir James, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, +<a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, +<a href="#page_54">54-5</a>, <a href="#page_196">196-7</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ross Harbor, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p> + +<p class="index"> Island, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></p> + +<p class="index"> Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p> + +<p class="index"> Sea, <a href="#page_216">216</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Rover</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_10">10</a></p> + +<p class="index">Royal Geographical Society, +<a href="#page_17">17</a></p> + +<p class="index">Royal Society, <a href="#page_17">17</a></p> + +<p class="index">Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R., <a href="#page_18">18</a>, +<a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, +<a href="#page_61">61</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_74">74-5</a>, +<a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_85">85-7</a>, +<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, +<a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, +<a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a></p> + +<p class="index">Russell Islands, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Safety Camp, <a href="#page_243">243-4</a>, +<a href="#page_245">245-6</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, +<a href="#page_258">258-9</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-2</a>, +<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, +<a href="#page_329">329-30</a></p> + +<p class="index">San Francisco, <a href="#page_11">11</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sawing-camp, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, +<a href="#page_178">178-9</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Saxon</i>, S.S., <a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scamp, dog, <a href="#page_37">37</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scott, John Edward, <a href="#page_1">1</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to, +<a href="#page_427">427</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a>, +<a href="#page_429">429</a>, <i>et passim</i></p> + +<p class="index">Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to, +<a href="#page_427">427</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scott of Brownhead, <a href="#page_1">1</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scott, Peter Markham, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Scurvy, <a href="#page_103">103-4</a>, +<a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, +<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, +<a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sea leopard, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> +elephant, <a href="#page_185">185</a></p> + +<p class="index">Seals, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, +<a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, +<a href="#page_279">279</a><br /> +crab-eater, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> +Ross, <a href="#page_41">41</a></p> + +<p class="index">Shackleton, Sir Ernest H., <a href="#page_27">27</a>, +<a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, +<a href="#page_107">107</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, +<a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, +<a href="#page_357">357</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></p> + +<p class="index">Shackleton's hut, <a href="#page_286">286</a></p> + +<p class="index">Shakespeare, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>, +<a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354</a></p> + +<p class="index">Shambles Camp, <a href="#page_353">353</a>, +<a href="#page_401">401</a></p> + +<p class="index">Shelley, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, +<a href="#page_167">167</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ship Committee, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, +<a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a></p> + +<p class="index">Simon's Bay, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, +<a href="#page_33">33</a></p> + +<p class="index">Simpson. George C., Meteorologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>, +<a href="#page_281">281-2</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, +<a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a></p> + +<p class="index">Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W., <a href="#page_18">18</a>, +<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_85">85-6</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, +<a href="#page_147">147-8</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, +<a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164-5</a>, +<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_191">191-3</a>, +<a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ski, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, +<a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, +<a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, +<a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, +<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_358">358</a>, +<a href="#page_360">360</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, +<a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_386">386</a>, +<a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></p> + +<p class="index">Ski-shoes, <a href="#page_361">361</a></p> + +<p class="index">Skua gulls, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, +<a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a></p> + +<p class="index">Skuary, the, <a href="#page_225">225</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sledge equipment, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, +<a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sledges, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, +<a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sleeping-bags, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, +<a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>, +<a href="#page_388">388</a></p> + +<p class="index">Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald, +<a href="#page_427">427</a></p> + +<p class="index">Smith's Inlet, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p> + +<p class="index">Snatcher, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, +<a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> +pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, +<a href="#page_352">352</a></p> + +<p class="index">Snippets, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>, +<a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, +<a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p> + +<p class="index">Snow-shoes, for ponies, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, +<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_352">352</a></p> + +<p class="index">South Africa, Government of, +<a href="#page_207">207</a></p> + +<p class="index">Southern Barrier Depôt, +<a href="#page_342">342</a><br /> +Road, the, <a href="#page_239">239-40</a></p> + +<p class="index">South Polar Times, <i>Discovery</i> Expedition, +<a href="#page_79">79-80</a><br /> +Last Expedition, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, +<a href="#page_290">290-1</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p> + +<p class="index">Spenser, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></p> + +<p class="index">Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to, +<a href="#page_424">424</a></p> + +<p class="index">Spud, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, +<a href="#page_115">115</a></p> + +<p class="index">Stareek, dog, <a href="#page_244">244-5</a></p> + +<p class="index">Stoke Damerel, <a href="#page_5">5</a></p> + +<p class="index">Stripes, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Stubbington House, Fareham, <a href="#page_5">5</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sturge Island, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sun, eclipse of, <a href="#page_156">156</a></p> + +<p class="index">Sverdrup's 'New Land', <a href="#page_295">295</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273-4</a>, +<a href="#page_281">281-2</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, +<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, +<a href="#page_327">327</a></p> + +<p class="index">Telephone, the, <a href="#page_318">318-19</a></p> + +<p class="index">Tent, double, <a href="#page_295">295</a></p> + +<p class="index">Tent, Island, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a><br /> +Islet, <a href="#page_184">184</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Terra Nova</i>, Discovery Expedition, +<a href="#page_182">182-3</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a> <i>seq.</i>, +<a href="#page_194">194</a>,<br /> +Last Expedition, +<a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, +<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, +<a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a></p> + +<p class="index">Thermometer, minimum, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, +<a href="#page_337">337</a></p> + +<p class="index">Thomson, Sir Courtauld, <a href="#page_11">11</a></p> + +<p class="index">Three Degree Depôt, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, +<a href="#page_385">385-6</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>, +<a href="#page_389">389</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p> + +<p class="index">Transport, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_345">345</a></p> + +<p class="index">Turtle Back Island, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Uncle Bill, pony, <a href="#page_262">262-3</a></p> + +<p class="index">Uniform overcoat, <a href="#page_309">309</a></p> + +<p class="index">Union Jack, the, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, +<a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_384">384</a>, +<a href="#page_428">428-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Upper Glacier Depôt, <a href="#page_390">390</a>, +<a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Vic, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p> + +<p class="index">Victor, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>, +<a href="#page_343">343</a></p> + +<p class="index">Victoria, B.C., <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> +Land, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, +<a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, +<a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, +<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> +Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p> + +<p class="index"><i>Victorious</i>, H.M.S., +<a href="#page_206">206</a></p> + +<p class="index">Vince, A. B., <a href="#page_63">63</a>, +<a href="#page_66">66-9</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, +<a href="#page_234">234</a></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="index">Weary Willy, pony, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, +<a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-3</a></p> + +<p class="index">Weddell Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p> + +<p class="index">Weller, William J., A.B., <a href="#page_48">48</a>, +<a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></p> + +<p class="index">Western Geological Party (1), +<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, +<a href="#page_270">270</a><br /> +(2) <a href="#page_317">317</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p> + +<p class="index">Western Mountains, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, +<a href="#page_325">325</a></p> + +<p class="index">Whales, killer, <a href="#page_227">227-8</a></p> + +<p class="index">White Island, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wild, Frank, <a href="#page_62">62-3</a>, +<a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, +<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wilkes, Commodore, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wilkes Land, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p> + +<p class="index">Williams, William, engineer, +<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a></p> + +<p class="index">Williamson, Thomas S., P.O., +<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wilson, Dr. E. A., chief, the scientific staff +(Last Expedition),<br /> +zoologist, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, +<a href="#page_26">26-8</a>, <a href="#page_35">35-6</a>, +<a href="#page_48">48-9</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, +<a href="#page_75">75-6</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, +<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a> +<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_143">143-4</a>, +<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, +<a href="#page_155">155-6</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, +<a href="#page_180">180-1</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, +<a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, +<a href="#page_219">219-20</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, +<a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, +<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242-4</a>, <a href="#page_246">246-8</a>, +<a href="#page_254">254-6</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, +<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, +<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, +<a href="#page_269">269-70</a>, <a href="#page_272">272-3</a>, +<a href="#page_279">279-80</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, +<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, +<a href="#page_300">300-7</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, +<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_320">320-2</a>, +<a href="#page_324">324-5</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, +<a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, +<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_353">353-5</a>, +<a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, +<a href="#page_372">372</a> <i>seq.</i></p> + +<p class="index">Wilson, Mrs., letter to, +<a href="#page_421">421</a></p> + +<p class="index">Winter Quarter Bay, <a href="#page_60">60</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wisting, Oscar, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wolf, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wolseley Motor Company, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wood Bay, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, +<a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p> + +<p class="index">Wright, Charles S., physicist, +<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, +<a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, +<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, +<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, +<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, +<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, +<a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, +<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, +<a href="#page_362">362</a></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT *** + +***** This file should be named 6721-h.htm or 6721-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/2/6721/ + +Produced by Robert J. 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