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diff --git a/old/vscot10.txt b/old/vscot10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..eee67fd --- /dev/null +++ b/old/vscot10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12340 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott + +Author: Charles Turley + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6721] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 24, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT *** + + + + +This eBook was produced by Robert J. Hall. + + + + +THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT + +BY CHARLES TURLEY + + + + +CONTENTS + + INTRODUCTION + + THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' + + Chapter + I. The 'Discovery'. + II. Southward Ho! + III. In Search of Winter Quarters. + IV. The Polar Winter. + V. The Start of the Southern Journey. + VI. The Return. + VII. A Second Winter. + VIII. The Western Journey. + IX. The Return from the West. + X. Release. + + THE LAST EXPEDITION + + Chapter + Preface to 'Scott's Last Expedition'. + Biographical Note. + British Antarctic Expedition, 1910. + I. Through Stormy Seas. + II. Depôt Laying to One Ton Camp. + III. Perils. + IV. A Happy Family. + V. Winter. + VI. Good-bye to Cape Evans. + VII. The Southern Journey Begins. + VIII. On the Beardmore Glacier. + IX. The South Pole. + X. On the Homeward Journey. + XI. The Last March. + Search Party Discovers the Tent. + In Memoriam. + Farewell Letters. + Message to the Public. + Index. + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE + + Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott + From a photograph by J. Russell & Son, Southsea. + + COLORED PLATES + + From Water-Color Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. + + Sledding. + Mount Erebus. + Lunar Corona. + 'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp. + + DOUBLE PAGE PLATE + + Panorama at Cape Evans. + Berg in South Bay. + + FULL PAGE PLATES + + Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet. + The 'Discovery'. + Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt. + Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier. + Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff. + The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic. + Pony Camp on the barrier. + Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard. + Pitching the double tent on the summit. + Adélie Penguin on nest. + Emperor Penguins on sea-ice. + Dog party starting from Hut Point. + Dog lines. + Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt. + Looking south from Lower Glacier Depôt, + Man hauling camp, 87th parallel. + The party at the South Pole. + 'The Last Rest'. + + Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal. + + Track chart of main southern journey. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + +BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART. + +On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately +home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief +recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing +man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the +streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I +then escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long +through the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the +life of action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those +who sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he +assured me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems +to have been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I +had drawn this from him with a promise that, if his reply was +satisfactory, I would let him go to bed. However, the family +traditions (they are nothing more) do bring him from across the +border. According to them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott +of Brownhead whose estates were sequestered after the '45. His +dwelling was razed to the ground and he fled with his wife, to +whom after some grim privations a son was born in a fisherman's +hut on September 14, 1745. This son eventually settled in Devon, +where he prospered, for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands +that he died. He had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the +eldest had as youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the +Captain Scott who was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the +same date, or perhaps a little earlier, it was decided that the +boy should go into the Navy like so many of his for-bears. + +I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days +of Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may +have some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain +Scott; and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some +chance for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things +does not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history +aged six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in +velveteen, being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping +horribly, like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest +recollection of him of a sister, who was too young to join in +a children's party on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always +called, had intimated to her that from a window she would be +able to see him taking a noble lead in the festivities in the +garden, and she looked; and that is what she saw. He had been +showing his guests how superbly he could jump the leat, and had +fallen into it. + +Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch +of the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another +branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These +were the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many +ways of being in them accidentally, it being forbidden to enter +them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother a new +version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of 'Touch.' +You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little good fortune, +one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not so much matter +though you got wetter. + +An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields +was to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned +the easy ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach +to this dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his +country and of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties +of gallant tars to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At +foot of the avenue was an oak tree which hung over the road, and +thus by dropping from this tree you got into open country. The +tree was (at this time) of an enormous size, with sufficient room +to conceal a navy, and the navy consisted mainly of the sisters +and the young brother. All had to be ready at any moment to leap +from the tree and join issue with the enemy on the leat. In the +fields there was also a mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups +'the pond,' and here Scott's battleship lay moored. It seems for +some time to have been an English vessel, but by and by he was +impelled, as all boys are, to blow something up, and he could +think of nothing more splendid for his purpose than the battleship. +Thus did it become promptly a ship of the enemy doing serious +damage to the trade of those parts, and the valiant Con took to +walking about with lips pursed, brows frowning as he cogitated +how to remove the Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters +and brother trotting by his side and looking anxiously, into +his set face. At last he decided to blow the accursed thing up +with gunpowder. His crew cheered, and then waited to be sent to +the local shop for a pennyworth of gunpowder. But Con made his +own gunpowder, none of the faithful were ever told how, and on +a great day the train was laid. Con applied the match and ordered +all to stand back. A deafening explosion was expected, but a mere +puff of flame was all that came; the Terror of Devon, which to +the unimaginative was only a painted plank, still rode the waters. +With many boys this would be the end of the story, but not with +Con. He again retired to the making of gunpowder, and did not +desist from his endeavors until he had blown that plank sky-high. + +His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is +probably the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly +always given it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was +with Con, and a few minutes after he had sworn that he would +not open it he was begging for permission to use it on a tempting +sapling. 'Very well,' his father said grimly, 'but remember, if +you hurt yourself, don't expect any sympathy from me.' The knife +was opened, and to cut himself rather badly proved as easy as +falling into the leat. The father, however, had not noticed, and +the boy put his bleeding hand into his pocket and walked on +unconcernedly. He was really considerably damaged; and this is +a good story of a child of seven who all his life suffered extreme +nausea from the sight of blood; even in the Discovery days, to +get accustomed to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch +Dr. Wilson skinning his specimens. + +When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess, +and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel +and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between +Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in +vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing +other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this +is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a +gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and +when he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be +seen. He walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic +was that he called at police-stations on the way to give practical +details of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children +would have thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange +mixture of the dreamy and the practical, and never more practical +than immediately after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and +time altogether when thus abstracted. I remember the first time +he dined with me, when a number of well-known men had come to +meet him, he arrived some two hours late. He had dressed to come +out, then fallen into one of his reveries, forgotten all about +the engagement, dined by himself and gone early to bed. Just as +he was falling asleep he remembered where he should be, arose +hastily and joined us as speedily as possible. It was equally +characteristic of him to say of the other guests that it was +pleasant to a sailor to meet so many interesting people. When +I said that to them the sailor was by far the most interesting +person in the room he shouted with mirth. It always amused Scott +to find that anyone thought him a person of importance. + +[Illustration: Robert F. Scott at the age of 13 as a naval cadet.] + +I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as +later when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly +built. This was so far from being the case that there were many +anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could +not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary +number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined +to be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here +printed, in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had +gone by the time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no +letters of this period extant and thus little can be said of his +years on the Britannia where 'you never felt hot in your bunk +because you could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at +port hole.' He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who +is not thought well of by the other boys as well as by their +instructors, but none of them foresaw that he was likely to become +anybody in particular. He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father +had dubbed him, owing to his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him +to work hard, he cast a wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a +good loser, he was untidy to the point of slovenliness, and he +had a fierce temper. All this I think has been proved to me up to +the hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so +cannot be very different from the man he grows into it leaves +me puzzled. The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically +as hard as nails and flung himself into work or play with a +vehemence I cannot remember ever to have seen equaled. I have +fished with him, played cricket and football with him, and other +games, those of his own invention being of a particularly arduous +kind, for they always had a moment when the other players were +privileged to fling a hard ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,' +was the last quality you would think of when you saw him bearing +down on you with that ball, and it was the last he asked of you +if you were bearing down on him. He was equally strenuous of +work; indeed I have no clearer recollection of him than his way +of running from play to work or work to play, so that there should +be the least possible time between. It is the 'time between' +that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott lived less in it than +anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the best of losers, with +a shout of delight for every good stroke by an opponent: what +is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat and correct in +his dress, quite a model for the youth who come after him, but +that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good form' in the +Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof. I have +never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and I have +seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have been +excusable. + +However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was none of those +things I saw in him but something better. The faults of his youth +must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he got to know +they were there and he took an iron grip of them and never let +go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything else +that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud. +I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his +manhood days which are not strictly within the sphere of this +introductory note. The horror of slackness was turned into a +very passion for keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one +time taking charge of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race +it all the way between work and home, a distance of three miles. +Even when he was getting the Discover ready and doing daily the +work of several men, he might have been seen running through +the streets of London from Savile Row or the Admiralty to his +home, not because there was no time for other method of progression, +but because he must be fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for +him; he kept an eye for ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly +the most practical of men. And practical in the cheeriest of +ways. In 1894 a disastrous change came over the fortunes of the +family, the father's money being lost and then Scott was practical +indeed. A letter he wrote I at this time to his mother, tenderly +taking everything and everybody on his shoulders, must be one +of the best letters ever written by a son, and I hope it may +be some day published. His mother was the great person of his +early life, more to him even than his brother or his father, +whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of following the +sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all bound up in +this son, determined that Con should do the big things he had +not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the head +of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not in +an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He never +seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles fell, +and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became famous +as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old Mooney' +in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts, +in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district, +deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words, +'Wull 'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young +gentleman be here along?' + +Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived +the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and +took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were +satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his +sisters. It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness +so far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model +for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While +there were others to help he would not spend his small means +on himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that +he had grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a +pin. In the days when he returned from his first voyage in the +Antarctic and all England was talking of him, one of his most +novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class tailor and +be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by the +possession of this as a child. When going about the country +lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was +sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red +carpets. + +The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but +by now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days +of which unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends +who remember the tempers remember also the sunny smile that +dissipated them. When I knew him the sunny smile was there +frequently, and was indeed his greatest personal adornment, but +the tempers never reached the surface. He had become master of +his fate and captain of his soul. + +In 1886 Scott became a middy on the Boadicea, and later on various +ships, one of them the Rover, of which Admiral Fisher was at +that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection of a little +black pig having been found under his bunk one night. He cannot +swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was certainly +one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a punishment. +In 1888 Scott passed, his examinations for sub-lieutenant, with +four first-class honors and one second, and so left his boyhood +behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion +to these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld Thomson that gives +a very attractive glimpse of him in this same year: + +'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find +my way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up +and the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found +tramp steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians +hurrying off to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked +a very unpleasant lot of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing +Frisco toughs joined me in my cabin, which was none too large +for a single person. I was then told that yet another had somehow +to be wedged in. While I was wondering if he could be a more +ill-favored or dirtier specimen of humanity than the others the +last comer suddenly appeared--the jolliest and breeziest English +naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con Scott. I had never seen him +before, but we at once became friends and remained so till the +end. He was going up to join his ship which, I think, was the +Amphion, at Esquimault, B. C. + +'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full +gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was +so overcrowded that a large number of women and children were +allowed to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on +condition that they got up early, so that the rest of the +passengers could come in for breakfast and the other meals. + +'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a +woman was able to get up, and the saloon was soon in an +indescribable condition. Practically no attempt was made to serve +meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves mostly out +of action from drink or sea-sickness. + +'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent +their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some +of our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share +of the waves that were washing the deck. + +'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human +being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took +command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as +their Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of +volunteers he led an attack on the saloon--dressed the mothers, +washed the children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors +and nursed the sick, and performed every imaginable service for +all hands. On deck he settled the quarrels and established order +either by his personality, or, if necessary, by his fists. +Practically by day and night he worked for the common good, never +sparing himself, and with his infectious smile gradually made +us all feel the whole thing was jolly good fun. + +'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself +who, after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds +the vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing +blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself +for the welfare and happiness of others.' + + + + +THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' + +[Illustration: The 'Discovery'. Reproduced from a drawing by +Dr. E. A. Wilson.] + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE DISCOVERY + + Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore + Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore. + +In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave +in London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the +Buckingham Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first +time of a prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following +day he called upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of +this eventful visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there +was a remarkable coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant +of the Majestic. I was just sitting down to write to my old friend +Captain Egerton [Footnote: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.] +about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command +the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great +a trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply +and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed +a foregone conclusion.' + +The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir Clements and +Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of his cousin, +the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the acquaintance +of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised it. During +the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott more +than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down as +a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir +Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy +stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this +Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead +it. So when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank +of Commander, and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the +work that was waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed +from the shoulders of the man who had not only proposed the +expedition, but had also resolved that nothing should prevent +it from going. + +Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered +before the Discovery could start upon her voyage. First and foremost +was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable efforts +the financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of 1899. +Later on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy with +the objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him that +the Government eventually agreed to contribute £45,000, provided +that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions. + +In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the special +Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition, was laid +in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite beginning, +at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had taken +up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control +over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition, +the only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday. +A visit to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions +from Dr. Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there +he discovered that the German expedition, which was to sail from +Europe at the same time as his own, was already in an advanced +state of preparation. Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to +England and found, as he had expected, that all the arrangements, +which were in full swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill +in England. The construction of the ship was the only work that +was progressing, and even in this there were many interruptions +from the want of some one to give immediate decisions on points +of detail. + +A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on +November 4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and +the Royal Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left +Scott practically with a free hand to push on the work in every +department, under a given estimate of expenditure in each. To +safeguard the interests of the two Societies the resolution provided +that this expenditure should be supervised by a Finance Committee, +and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties +were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests +to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally +arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it +is mere justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its +members began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of +the undertaking. + +In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as +possible, the various members of the expedition. Before he had +left the Majestic he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the +intention as regards the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody +them from the R.N.? I sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set +his heart on obtaining a naval crew, partly because he thought +that their sense of discipline would be invaluable, but also +because he doubted his ability to deal with any other class of +men. + +The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that +Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not +from any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions +of principle and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance +in this respect was limited to two officers, Scott himself and +Royds, then the limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer, +a carpenter and a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval +nucleus was obtained. But it was not until the spring of 1901 +that the Admiralty, thanks to Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald +Douglas, gave in altogether, and as the selection of the most +fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men did +not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing. + +For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters +in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal +in Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges, +ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while +tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples +of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily +on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes +depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly +be ready to start at the required date. + +During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction +of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and +the carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous +small difficulties that arose in connection with the building +of the ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also +been filled up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in +many places. Some men were working on their especial subjects +in the British Museum, others were preparing themselves at the +Physical Laboratory at Kew, and others, again, were traveling +in various directions both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs +the central office was obliged to take notice, and so for its +occupants idle moments were few and very far between. Nansen +said once that the hardest work of a Polar voyage came in its +preparation, and during the years 1900-1, Scott found ample cause +to agree with him. But in spite of conflicting interests, which +at times threatened to wreck the well-being of the expedition, +work, having been properly organized, went steadily forward; +until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel was launched at Dundee +and named the 'Discovery' by Lady Markham. + +In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best +plan was to revive some time-honored title, and that few names +were more distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of +that name, and inherited a long record of honorable and fortunate +service. + +The Discovery had been nothing more than a skeleton when it was +decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London; +consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought +round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East +India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores +were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined +to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was +laden. + +Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen +strongly recommended a vessel of the Fram type with fuller lines +for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed +to consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had +very sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's celebrated +Fram was built for the specific object of remaining safely in +the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures which +were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object +was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of +the vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure +merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this +design was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation +that its conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What, +however, has been generally forgotten is that the safety of the +Fram was secured at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers +of ice-penetration. + +Since the Fram was built there have been two distinct types of +Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security +in the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to +sail the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs. +And a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which +of these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration, +because it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all +be prepared to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and +then be ready to force her way through the ice-floes to the +mysteries beyond. + +By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances, +the old Discovery (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the best +ship that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the Ship +Committee eventually decided that the new vessel should be built +on more or less the same lines. The new Discovery had the honor +to be the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration, +and the decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was +more than justified by her excellent qualities. + +The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had +to be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the +ship gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass +of solid wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting. +No single tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the +several trees used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent +of a solid block. In further preparation for the battle with +ice-floes, the stem itself and the bow for three or four feet +on either side were protected with numerous steel plates, so +that when the ship returned to civilization not a scratch remained +to show the hard knocks received by the bow. + +The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration. +In the outline drawing of the Discovery will be seen how largely +the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than +in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted +was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging +a large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the +bows were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship +acting downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would +drop, and gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against +the next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the +elasticity and strength to thrust its way without injury through +the thick Polar ice. + +In Dundee the building of the Discovery aroused the keenest +interest, and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an +entirely new feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the +strongest criticism. All sorts of misfortunes were predicted, +but events proved that this overhanging rounded form of stem +was infinitely superior for ice-work to the old form of stem, +because it gave better protection to the rudder, rudder post +and screw, and was more satisfactory in heavy seas. + +Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the Discovery +the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,' +was an important place. For the best of reasons it was important +that the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should +be as accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood +that magnetic observations cannot be taken in a place closely +surrounded by iron. The ardor of the magnetic experts on the +Ship Committee had led them at first to ask that there should +be neither iron nor steel in the vessel, but after it had been +pointed out that this could scarcely be, a compromise was arrived +at and it was agreed that no magnetic materials should be employed +within thirty feet of the observatory. This decision caused immense +trouble and expense, but in the end it was justified, for the +magnetic observations taken on board throughout the voyage required +very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic experts +were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from +them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened +with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the +ship was on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into +dire disgrace, not because it was too talkative, but because +it had been hanging on the mess-deck during a whole set of +observations, and the wires of its cage were made of iron. + +[Illustration: Outline drawings of 'Discovery' and 'Fram'.] + +The Discovery was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel ever +built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about +his officers and men as he was about the ship herself. + +The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small +wardroom of the Discovery was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage, R.N.R. +He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship +training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience; +for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in +1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth +Expedition to Franz-Josef Land. + +Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service +in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were +expected to be light, he combined them with those of official +botanist. + +The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook +or crook all the strange beasts that inhabit the Polar seas, +and no greater enthusiast for his work could have been chosen. + +Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do +with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in +the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war. +Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face +of great difficulties he secured the most valuable records. + +Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott +in the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the +expedition had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted +for a voyage where there were many elements of dangers and +difficulty.' + +The original idea in appointing two doctors to the Discovery was +that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party. +This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason +to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed +was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which +arose between them, and which in the end was destined to make +history, it is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is +believed to be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter +headed 'At sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who +will do great things some day--Wilson. He has quite the keenest +intellect on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know +his artistic talent, but would be surprised at the speed at which +he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which he is always +at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps with any job +that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow all round. + +Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate +zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity +he dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the +second he produced a very large number of excellent pictures +and sketches of the wild scenes among which he was living. + +One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to +apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer. +At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and +his appointment to the Discovery was most fortunate in every +way. From first to last there was no serious difficulty with +the machinery or with anything connected with it. + +The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition +a short time before the Discovery sailed, and the physicist, +Louis Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand. + +In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout +the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was +obliged to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was +taken by George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the +Navy when he joined. + +Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson, who was +thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members of the +wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that time +Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar service. +Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced as +the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his +last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is +the younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says +he never felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between +30 and 40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course. +He is 29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember +that Peary was 52!' + +The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three +years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen, +and Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers, +petty officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval +discipline that is very necessary for such conditions as exist +in Polar service. The Discovery, it must be remembered, was not +in Government employment, and so had no more stringent regulations +to enforce discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping +Act. But everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was +under the Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known +that this state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much +credit as the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously +to observe it. + +Something remains to be said about the Discovery's prospective +course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott. + +For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested +that the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants, +to be named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and +the Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant +should be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was +received with such unanimous approval that long before the Discovery +was built her prospective course had been finally decided. In +fact every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in +the Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions +on such a voyage as the Discovery's it may be thought that, when +once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better. +Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom +to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general +view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the +various objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is +clearly to the commander's advantage to know in what light these +interests are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise. +Of such a nature were the instructions Scott received before +sailing for the South. + +During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable +assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid +it is doubtful if the Discovery would ever have started had it +not been that among these helpers was one who, from the first, +had given his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand. +After all is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the +idea of this Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful +personality which swept aside all obstacles and obstructions. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +SOUTHWARD HO! + + They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared, + They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered. + Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away. + And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay. + --NEWBOLT. + +On July 31, 1901, the Discovery left the London Docks, and slowly +wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5, she +was honored by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. +This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties +showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time +it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed +by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets +and return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage +were also not to be forgotten--a voyage to the Antarctic, the +very map of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93. + +With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following +on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and +James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the +Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered +therefore that his great anxieties were to be off and doing, to +justify the existence of the expedition at the earliest possible +moment, and to obey the instructions which had been given him? + +Before the Discovery had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was evident +that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions, +and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on +the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to +take full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the +first exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback, +as it had been confidently expected that there would be ample +time to make trial of various devices for sounding and dredging +in the deep sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact +that no trials could be made on the outward voyage was severely +felt when the Antarctic was reached. + +On October 2 the Discovery arrived within 150 miles of the Cape, +and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's Bay. +The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons +with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to +be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at +the Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our +own observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time +for such repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances, +could alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne, +however, worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received +so much valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish +a maximum amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.' +In every way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the +Cape. + +The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later +the Discovery once more put out to sea; and as time went on those +on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy qualities. +Towards the end of October there was a succession of heavy following +gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous seas that +followed in her wake, and, considering her size, she was wonderfully +free of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following sea, +however, she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and +rolls of more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape +of the stern, to which reference has been made, was now well +tested. It gave additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing +the ship to rise more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting +effect was also directed to throwing the ship off her course, +and consequently she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually +became more expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other +officers were on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was +immediately swept by a monstrous sea which made a clean breach +over her. Instinctively those on the bridge clutched the rails, +and for several moments they were completely submerged while +the spray dashed as high as the upper topsails. + +On November 12 the Discovery was in lat. 51 S., long. 131 E., +and had arrived in such an extremely interesting magnetic area +that they steered to the south to explore it. This new course +took them far out of the track of ships and towards the regions +of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those lonely waters +when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking and a voice +shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give any details +of this alarming news the informant fled, and when Scott appeared +hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was very dark and +obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom were as +ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered that +the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily +extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these +days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of +fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too +serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth +the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this +was the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised +in the Discovery. + +On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the +following morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic +shape by the action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with +much excitement and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs +of a heavier pack were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were +all about the ship, and she was pushing her way amongst them +and receiving her baptism of ice. + +This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded +how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings. +'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in +a ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and +again a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding +of the floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more +subdued hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for +the first time we felt something of the solemnity of these great +Southern solitudes.' + +The Discovery was now within 200 miles of Adélie Land, and with +steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But delays had +already been excessive, and they could not be added to if New +Zealand was to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's head +was again turned towards the North, and soon passed into looser +ice. + +One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans +is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are +these roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but +in the majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for +hours gather close about her. The greater number are of the petrel +tribe, and vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their +huge spread of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson +stormy petrel, which flits under the foaming crests of the waves. +For centuries these birds have been the friends of sailors, and +as Wilson was able to distinguish and name the various visitors +to the Discovery, the interest of the voyage was very greatly +increased. + +'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report +of the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island, +exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory +fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised +so much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the +few hours necessary for landing would be amply justified.... +A landing was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin +rookeries which had been observed from the ship were explored +with much interest. One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully +marked King penguin, while the other contained a smaller +gold-crested broad-billed species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned +to the ship, and shortly after we weighed anchor and proceeded. +Including those collected in the ice, we had no fewer than 50 +birds of various sorts to be skinned, and during the next few +days several officers and men were busily engaged in this work +under the superintendence of Dr. Wilson. The opportunity was +taken of serving out the flesh of the penguins for food. I had +anticipated considerable prejudice on the part of the men to +this form of diet which it will so often be essential to enforce, +and was agreeably surprised to find that they were by no means +averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent, and all seemed to +appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste for it. I found +no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my own.' + +Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to +Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was +most comically divided between a desire to run away from the +penguins, and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved +him to be very courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and +last experience of penguins, for it was felt that he would be +unable to live in the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was +found for him in New Zealand. + +Late on November 29 the Discovery arrived off Lyttelton Heads, +and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty in +the harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which +was shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of +gratitude can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in +every possible way, efficient and kindly assistance was given, +and this was all the more valuable because a lot of work had +to be done before the ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging +had to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted; the magneticians +had to undertake the comparison of their delicate instruments, +and as this was the last occasion on which it could be done special +attention was necessary; and a large quantity of stores had to +be shipped, because some of those in the Discovery had been damaged +by the leaky state of the ship. This leak had never been dangerous, +but all the same it had entailed many weary hours of pumping, +and had caused much waste of time and of provisions. Among the +many skilled workmen, whose united labor had produced the solid +structure of the Discovery's hull, had been one who had shirked +his task, and although the ship was docked and most determined +and persistent efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded +in avoiding detection. + +As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a +very busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton +arrived, though not for the final departure from civilization, +because a short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the +south to complete the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, +the ship lay alongside the wharf ready for sea and very deeply +laden. 'One could reflect that it would have been impossible +to have got more into her, and that all we had got seemed necessary +for the voyage, for the rest we could only trust that Providence +would vouch-safe to us fine weather and an easy passage to the +south.' + +New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm +for the expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of +the Discovery, while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with +passengers, and with bands playing and whistles hooting, also +accompanied her, until the open sea was reached and the Discovery +slowly steamed out between the war-ships that seemed to stand +as sentinels to the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands +of friends were hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy +happened. Among the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging +to wave their farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner, +who, more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the +crow's-nest to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the +truck, he had remained cheering, until in a moment of madness +he raised himself into a standing position, and almost directly +afterwards he fell and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday +the ship arrived at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with +naval honors. + +By noon on the following day the Discovery was clear of the harbor +bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail towards +the south. The last view of civilization, the last sight of fields +and flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and Christmas +Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern Ocean, +though after such a recent parting from so many kind friends +no one felt inclined for the customary festivities. + +In good sea trim the Discovery had little to fear from the worst +gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had she +encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very +unpleasant. Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have +been lost; the masses of wood on the superstructure would have +been in great danger, while all the sheep and possibly many of +the dogs would have been drowned. Fine weather, however, continued, +and on January 3 Scott and his companions crossed the Antarctic +Circle, little thinking how long a time would elapse before they +would recross it. At length they had entered the Antarctic regions; +before them lay the scene of their work, and all the trials of +preparation, and the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the +fact that they had reached their goal in time to make use of +the best part of the short open season in these icebound regions. + +Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that +there were many large pools of open water. And then for several +days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high +praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect +gem in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem +to give quite the best combination possible for such a purpose. +We have certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we +have come through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with +a gale of wind behind him.' + +Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack, +and the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual +interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors +was the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage +relieved only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These +little birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern +fulmar and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that +unwholesome scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by; +while the skua gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally +flapped past, on his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge +his hard-earned dinner. + +The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at first afar +and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity drew them +to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little visitors +would again and again leap into the water, and journey from floe +to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange apparition +could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in imitating +their calls, and could not only attract them from a long distance, +but would visibly add to their astonishment when they approached. +These were busy days for the penguins. + +In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours +asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or +white seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there +is found the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins +and even on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious +to observe that both seals and penguins regard themselves as +safe when out of the water. In the sea they are running risks +all the time, and in that element Nature has made them swift +to prey or to avoid being preyed upon. But once on ice or land +they have known no enemy, and cannot therefore conceive one. +The seal merely raises its head when anyone approaches, and then +with but little fear; whereas it is often difficult to drive +the penguin into the water, for he is firmly convinced that the +sea is the sole source of danger. Several seals were killed for +food, and from the first seal-meat was found palatable, if not +altogether the form of diet to recommend to an epicure. The great +drawback to the seal is that there is no fat except blubber, +and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell. +At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste +and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked +with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this +smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver +and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries. + +On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen, +and soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft +the glad tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship +entered a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces, +and after pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached +the hard line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south +nothing but a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same +evening the joy of being again in the open sea was intensified +by a shout of 'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly +gathered there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent. +The sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless +sky, and far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high +mountain peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was +now directed for Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing +to the reappearance of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was +eventually steered into the open water within the bay. + +Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare, +within which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea, +is a curious triangular spit, probably the morainic remains of +the vaster ice conditions of former ages. It was on this spit +that the expedition sent forth by Sir George Newnes and commanded +by Borchgrevink spent their winter in 1896, the first party to +winter on the shores of the Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided +to land for a short time, and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and +Barne were at work among the thousands of penguins that abounded, +while the naturalists wandered further afield in search of specimens. +In the center of Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members +of Borchgrevink's party was still found to be standing in very +good condition, though at the best of times deserted dwellings +are far from cheerful to contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member +of this small party of eight, and on the spot he recalled the past, +and told of the unhappy death of Hanson--one of his comrades. + +Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's +grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder +containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were +told to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the +following year this cylinder was found by the Morning, [Footnote: +The relief ship.] and so the first information was given that +the Discovery had succeeded in reaching these southern regions. + +On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the +ship again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape +Adare in the hope of finding a clear channel near at hand. Very +soon, however, the tidal stream began to make from the south, +and the whole aspect of the streams of heavy pack-ice rapidly +changed. Almost immediately the pack was about the ship, and +she was being rapidly borne along with it. Across the entrance +to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs, and it was in this +direction that she was being carried. For the first time they +faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its mighty powers. +Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around them were +heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and turn +as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in front +of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for +nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained +aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room, +as usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the +Discovery exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in spite +of these efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost +certain that she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was +one of those hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for +ever on the memory. Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, +its rays were reflected from a myriad points of tire glistening +pack; behind us lay the lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown +sun-kissed cliffs of the Cape, and the placid glassy waters of +the bay; the air about us was almost breathlessly still; crisp, +clear and sun-lit, it seemed an atmosphere in which all Nature +should rejoice; the silence was broken only by the deep panting +of our engines and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes; +yet, beneath all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us +on to possible destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that +danger could exist in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one +paced to and fro on the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted +our bridge, it was difficult to persuade oneself that we were +so completely impotent.' + +With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually +on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour +was early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below, +happily oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the +fact that they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely +made in the Discovery, if it could by any conceivable means be +avoided. + +At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it +came so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened. +Little by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked +floes fell slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the +ship began to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For +me,' Scott adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no +doubt, a salutary one; we were here to fight the elements with +their icy weapons, and once and for all this taught me not to +undervalue the enemy.' During the forenoon the ship was within +seven or eight miles of the high bold coast-line to the south +of Cape Adare, but later she had to be turned outwards so that +the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could be +avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the +land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross +had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty +to talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to +a brisk S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being +used. + +Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that +of coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to +use only one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was +saved but time was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the +Discovery could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on +the 12th she scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had +increased and a heavy swell was coming up from the south. + +To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs +of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as +they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines +were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from +the cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their +sledge journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as +regards distance, and what very false appearances distant objects +could assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that +Polar explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the +evidence of their own eyes, and it also explains the errors +which the Discovery expedition found to have been made by former +explorers, and which they knew must have been made in all good faith. + +During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of +Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to +such a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs +with such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to +keep her in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon +the wind force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued +to lose ground they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the +spray over them in showers, to freeze as it fell. + +Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg +they were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of +another. As they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear +of its pinnacled sides, and they took the shock broad on their +bows. It sent the ship reeling round, but luckily on the right +tack to avoid further complications. The following night was +dismal enough; again and again small bergs appeared through the +blinding spray and drift, and only with great difficulty could the +unmanageable ship be brought to clear them. Even gales, however, +must have an end, and towards morning the wind moderated, and +once more they were able to steam up close to the island. And +there, between two tongues of ice off Cape Wadworth, they landed +on the steep rocks and erected a staff bearing a tin cylinder +with a further record of the voyage. By the time this had been +done the wind had fallen completely, and in the evening the ship +entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and the barrier-ice, and +later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet in the barrier-ice +itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered spot, and night, +as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was turned into day +so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed a terrible +desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot only to +murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow with +blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity, +for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals +would be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and +undoubtedly the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food. + +While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being +obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out +to sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told +that the work was completed, but that some five hours before +Wilson, Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and +that no one had thought of picking them up. Although the sun +had been shining brightly all night, the temperature had been down +to 18°, and afar off Scott could see four disconsolate figures +tramping about, and trying to keep themselves warm on a detached +floe not more than fifteen yards across. + +When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very +evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been +warmed by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences. +They had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when +they thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that +they had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they +were dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson, +who did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing +fire with a small pocket magnifying glass--a performance which +testified not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power +of the sun in these latitudes. + +On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from +the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in +the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A +way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison, +among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen; +across the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald, +while to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform +outline of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost +perfect volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no +competing height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the +most magnificent landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold, +sharp headland, projects from the foot of the mountain on its +eastern side, and finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott +decided to turn to the south to pass around this cape. + +From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting, +since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically +unknown. Pack-ice was still a formidable obstacle, but on the +20th the Discovery pushed her way into an inlet where she met +ice which had been formed inside and but recently broken up. The +ice was perfectly smooth, and as it showed absolutely no sign +of pressure there was no doubting that this inlet would make a +secure wintering harbor. Already a latitude had been reached in +which it was most desirable to find safe winter quarters for the +ship. In England many people had thought that Wood Bay would be +the most southerly spot where security was likely to be found, but +Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to the south of that place +to realize the impossibility of traveling along it in sledges, +and to convince him that if any advance to the south was to be +made, a harbor in some higher latitude must be found. + +This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and +secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his +thankfulness that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded +as we should have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have +obtained only the most local records of climatic conditions, and +our meteorological observations would have been comparatively +valueless; but the greatest drawback would have been that we +should be completely cut off from traveling over the sea-ice +beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It is when one remembers how +naturally a decision to return to this place might have been +made, that one sees how easily the results of the expedition +might have been missed.' + +It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default of +a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so with +Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle with +the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo Sound, +and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared +from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now +within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their +winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they +returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought +we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal +in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before us +lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay +beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!' + + + + +CHAPTER III + +IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS + + Beholde I see the haven near at hand + To which I mean my wearie course to bend; + Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land + To which afore is fairly to be ken'd. + --SPENSER, Faerie Queene. + +In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had +already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A +coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance, +and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard +to its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of +mountains; and the positions and forms of individual heights, +with the curious ice formations and the general line of the coast, +had been observed. In short the map of the Antarctic had already +received valuable additions, and whatever was to happen in the +future that, at any rate, was all to the good. + +At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the +westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post +and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so +that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing +had been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the +center of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the +sea, and here the post was set up and anchored with numerous +boulders. In spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few +hundred yards it was almost impossible to distinguish it; but +although this small post on the side of a vast mountain looked +a hopeless clue, it eventually brought the Morning into McMurdo +Sound. + +While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and +began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set +off in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and +Wilson scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of +the highest of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded +by a first view of the Great Ice Barrier. [Footnote: The immense +sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of still greater length.] + +'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before +us in the south we were most keenly interested in solving the +mysteries of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been +discussed and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on +the slender foundation of fact which alone the meager information +concerning it could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary +ice-formation was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight +and the very vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to +our sense of its mystery.' + +Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the ice-face of +the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed it was +arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the +ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe +and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four +hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this +manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit +of the barrier was made. + +On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they +were far more eager to gain new information than to prove that +old information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began +to arise against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described +as 'probably higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was +known with absolute certainty that these mountains did not exist. +This error on the part of such a trustworthy and cautious observer, +Scott ascribes to the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the +height of the barrier, was led to suppose that anything seen +over it at a distance must be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds, +'whatever the cause, the facts show again how deceptive appearances +may be and how easily errors may arise. In fact, as I have said +before, one cannot always afford to trust the evidence of one's +own eyes.' Though the ship was steaming along this ice-wall for +several days, the passage was not in the least monotonous, because +new variations were continually showing themselves, and all of +them had to be carefully observed and recorded. This work continued +for several days until, on January 29, they arrived at a particularly +interesting place, to the southward and eastward of the extreme +position reached by Ross in 1842. From that position he had reported +a strong appearance of land to the southeast, and consequently +all eyes were directed over the icy cliffs in that direction. +But although the afternoon was bright and clear, nothing from +below or from aloft could be seen, and the only conclusion to +be made was that the report was based on yet another optical +illusion. + +But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report +that Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations, +there was on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense +of impending change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening, +and we could not fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had +not so far encountered the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported +in this region, and that consequently we were now sailing in +an open sea into an unknown world.' + +The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came +at 8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and +becoming more and more irregular continued in that direction for +about five miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into +the deep bay thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached +they saw at once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot +descended to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the +water, and behind it the snow surface rose in long undulating +slopes to rounded ridges, the heights of which could only be +guessed. Whatever doubt remained in their minds that this was +snow-covered land, a sounding of 100 fathoms quickly removed it. + +But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there +was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy +outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce +optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe, +a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what +lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the +fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen, +and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal +that two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken +for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till +someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all +glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous, +until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more +definite shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at +real live rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered +land.... It is curious to reflect now on the steps which led us +to the discovery of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence +which came to us before the actual land itself was seen: at first +there had been the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently +rising snow-slopes, of which, in the nature of things, one is +obliged to retain a doubt; then the steeper broken slopes of +snow, giving a contrast to convey a surer evidence to the eye; +and, finally the indubitable land itself, but even then surrounded +with such mystery as to leave us far from complete satisfaction +with our discovery.' + +The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost +irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them, +Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back +along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than +on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed +on the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon +ascent were made. 'The honor,' Scott says, 'of being the first +aeronaut to make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps +somewhat selfishly, I chose for myself, and I may further confess +that in so doing I was contemplating the first ascent I had made +in any region, and as I swayed about in what appeared a very +inadequate basket and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures +below, I felt some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.' + +If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut, +it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the +barrier surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he +discovered that instead of the continuous level plain that he had +expected, it continued in a series of long undulations running +approximately east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface. +Later on, however, when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage +returned, they reported that these undulations were not gradual +as had been supposed from the balloon, but that the crest of each +wave was flattened into a long plateau, from which the descent +into the succeeding valley was comparatively sharp. On the evening +of the 4th they put out to sea again, and on the 8th they were +once more in McMurdo Sound, with high hopes that they would soon +find a sheltered nook in which the Discovery could winter safely, +and from which the sledge-parties could set forth upon the task +of exploring the vast new world around them. + +Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate +surroundings, and found a little bay which promised so well for +the winter that Scott's determination to remain in this region +was at once strengthened. The situation, however, was surrounded +with difficulties, for although the ice had broken far afield +it refused to move out of the small bay on which they had looked +with such eager eyes; consequently they were forced to cling to +the outskirts of the bay with their ice-anchors, in depths that +were too great to allow the large anchors to be dropped to the +bottom. The weather also was troublesome, for after the ship had +lain quietly during several hours a sudden squall would fling +her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting the ice-anchors, +would ultimately send her adrift. + +In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position, +steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted +mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in +pieces. The original intention had been that the Discovery should +not winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and turn +northward before the season closed, and for this party a large hut +had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to keep +the ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be +made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since +until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her +off her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking +winter quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly +convinced that the season was closing in. 'With no experience +to guide us, our opinion could only be based on the very severe +and unseasonable conditions which we had met with to the east. +But now to our astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy +freezing of the bay; the summer seemed to have taken a new lease, +and for several weeks the fast sea-ice continued to break silently +and to pass quietly away to the north in large floes.' + +In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which +had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together. +The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was +so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot +of persuasion before the joints would fit. + +On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all +the dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below +the huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be +done, and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The +hut-building is slow work, and much of our time has been taken +in securing the ship.... Names have been given to the various +landmarks in our vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be +called "Cape Armitage," after our excellent navigator. The sharp +hill above it is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the +"Gap," through which we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively +low level. North of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher +volcanic peak beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet +in height. Our protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with +"Arrival Bay" on the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south; +above "Arrival Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue +with breaks for about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond +which rises the most conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a +high, precipitous-sided rock with a flat top, which has been +dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is 1,350 feet in height. + +'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible +to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton +is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the +men run him close.' + +On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went +out, and on their return three days later they were so excited +by their experiences that some time passed before they could +answer the questions put to them. Although the temperature had +not been severe they had nearly got into serious trouble by +continuing their march in a snowstorm, and when they did stop +to camp they were so exhausted that frost-bites were innumerable. +The tent had been difficult to get up, and all sorts of trouble +with the novel cooking apparatus had followed. 'It is strange +now,' Scott wrote three years later, 'to look back on these first +essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered we were by +want of experience.' + +By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as +a quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal, +had been landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and +arrangements for the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself, +were pushed forward. The object of this journey was to try and +reach the record at Cape Crozier over the barrier, and to leave +a fresh communication there with details of the winter quarters. +On the following day, however, Scott damaged his right knee while +skiing, and had to give up all idea of going to Cape Crozier. +'I already foresaw how much there was to be learnt if we were +to do good sledding work in the spring, and to miss such an +opportunity of gaining experience was terribly trying; however, +there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded limb and +to determine that never again would I be so rash as to run hard +snow-slopes on ski.' + +By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed. +The party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton +and Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each +pulling a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again +the want of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the +lack of system was apparent. Though each requirement might have +been remembered, all were packed in a confused mass, and, to +use a sailor's expression, 'everything was on top and nothing +handy.' Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On +looking back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so +cheaply, for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as +well as of discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our +first sledge parties left the ship.' + +The days following the departure of the sledge party were +exceptionally fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board +the ship woke to find the wind blowing from the east; and in +the afternoon the wind increased, and the air was filled with +thick driving snow. This Tuesday was destined to be one of the +blackest days spent by the expedition in the Antarctic, but no +suspicion that anything untoward had happened to the sledge party +arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there was a report that four men were +walking towards the ship. Then the sense of trouble was immediate, +and the first disjointed sentences of the newcomers were enough +to prove that disasters had occurred. The men, as they emerged +from their thick clothing, were seen to be Wild, Weller, Heald +and Plumley, but until Scott had called Wild, who was the most +composed of the party, aside, he could not get any idea of what +had actually happened, and even Wild was too exhausted, and +excited to give anything but a meager account. + +Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine, +In charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day +had reached the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock. +In addition, Wild told him, to the four who had returned, the +party had consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince. +They had thought that they were quite close to the ship, and +when the blizzard began they had left their tents and walked +towards her supposed position. Then they found themselves on +a steep slope and tried to keep close together, but it was +impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare had disappeared, and +a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and Quartley had left them +to try to find out what had become of Evans, and neither of them +had come back, though they waited. Afterwards they had gone on, +and had suddenly found themselves at the edge of a precipice with +the sea below; Vince had shot past over the edge. Wild feared +all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had gone. Could +he guide a search party to the scene of the accident? He thought +he could--at any rate he would like to try. + +The information was little enough but it was something on which +to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought +until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before +9 P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party, +and Armitage took charge of it. + +Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was +known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced. +On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow, +and after three days of excessive labor Royds had decided that +the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but +unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski with the party, +and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with Koettlitz +and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge of Barne. + +The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning +party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were +abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the +top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when +a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched. + +'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch +little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour +after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they +expected each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents +bodily away, and meanwhile the chill air crept through their +leather boots and ill-considered clothing, and continually some +frost-bitten limb had to be nursed back to life.' + +At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits, +but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything +into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make +for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant. + +'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the +men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as +it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance +than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they +had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who had been at the +rear of the party, was reported to be missing, and soon afterwards +Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth ice, fell, and +shot out of sight immediately.' + +Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were, +sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track. +In a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a +pace that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush +he had time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then +his flight was arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within +a few feet of him. They had scarcely exchanged greetings when +the figure of Quartley came hurtling down upon them from the +gloom, for he had started on the same track, and had been swept +down in the same breathless and alarming manner. To return by +the way they had come down was impossible, and so they decided +to descend, but within four paces of the spot at which they had +been brought to rest, they found that the slope ended suddenly in +a steep precipice, beyond which nothing but clouds of snow could +be seen. For some time after this they sat huddled together, +forlornly hoping that the blinding drift would cease, but at +last they felt that whatever happened they must keep on the move, +and groping their way to the right they realized that the sea was +at their feet, and that they had been saved from it by a patch +of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff. Presently a short +break in the storm enabled them to see Castle Rock above their +heads, and slowly making their way up the incline, they sought +the shelter of a huge boulder; and there, crouched together, +they remained for several hours. + +Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the +head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls +of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they +felt that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain +where they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the +leading spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained +submitted themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him +in single file as he again struck out in the direction in which +they supposed the ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for +about 500 yards, until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath +his feet, and far below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. +He sprang back with a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince +had flashed past and disappeared. + +Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at +all costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just +come. All of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror, +and wondered how it had ever been made. They could only hold +themselves by the soles of their boots, and to slip to their +knees meant inevitably to slide backwards towards the certain +fate below. Literally their lives depended on each foothold. +Wild alone had a few light nails in his boots, and to his great +credit he used this advantage to give a helping hand in turn +to each of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they +did reach the top of the slope their troubles were not finished, +for they were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild, +however, again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that +the party eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of +snow. 'It is little wonder that after such an experience they +should have been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.' + +The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search +party on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully +conscious of his inability to help on account of his injured leg, +admits that he could not think of any further means to render +assistance, but he says, 'as was always my experience in the +Discovery, my companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon +the shrill screams of the siren were echoing among the hills, +and in ten minutes after the suggestion had been made, a whaler +was swinging alongside ready to search the cliffs on the chance +of finding Vince. + +But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there +was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow, +and fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without, +and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost--Barne, Evans and +Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having +done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search +was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of +seeing Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be +realized that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was +also no disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might +have happened. Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party +were alive to tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley +heard the faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its +welcome sound made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge +party would in all probability not have found them. All three +of them were badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was +in such a serious condition that for many days it was thought +that his fingers would have to be amputated. + +The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March +13 Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has +happened. At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. +At first we thought it must be some one who had been for an early +walk; but it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly, +and, immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were +seen streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized +the figure as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was +on board.... We soon discovered that though exhausted, weak, +and hungry, he was in full possession of his faculties and quite +free from frost-bites. He went placidly off to sleep whilst +objecting to the inadequacy of a milk diet.' + +Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained +that he had left his companions to return to the sledges and get +some leather boots, and had imagined that the others understood +what he intended to do. Soon after he had started back he was +wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that he was walking +aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered was making +for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and there +he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though he +required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of +this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on +raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks, +and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards +her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged +to travel upon his hands and knees. + +But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally +and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate, +and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing +to him, and it is something to think that death must have come +quickly in the grip of that icy sea.' + +This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the +three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when, +on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The +others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them +were soon safely on board. + +On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to +reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until +it was evident that a better equipped party with more favorable +weather would easily get to it. On comparing notes with his party, +Scott recognized what a difference there might be in the weather +conditions of places within easy reach of the ship, and not only +in temperature but also in the force and direction of the wind. +It had not occurred to anyone that within such a short distance +of the ship any large difference of temperature was probable, +and as the summer was barely over, Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton +had only taken a light wolf-skin fur suit for night-wear. This, +however, had proved totally inadequate when the thermometer fell +to -42°, and on the night of the 16th uncontrollable paroxysms of +shivering had prevented them from getting any sleep. The value of +proper clothing and the wisdom of being prepared for the unexpected +rigors of such a fickle climate, were two of the lessons learnt +from the experiences of the Cape Crozier party. + +As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether +the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such +an advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected +state of affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of +their position was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since +necessitated the extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a +heavy gale drove the ship from her shelter, steam could only be +raised with difficulty and after the lapse of many hours. There +was, too, the possibility that the ship, if once driven off, +would not be able to return, and so it was obviously unsafe to +send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift +most of them would be needed. + +Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet +of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological +screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific +work which was such an important object of the expedition. + +At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort +before the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a +depôt of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring, +but 'a more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had +not been away already a practical insight into the difficulties +of sledge traveling. But as this party would have to include +the majority of those on board, he was forced to wait until the +ship was firmly fixed, and it may be said that the Discovery +was as reluctant to freeze-in as she was difficult to get out +when once the process had been completed. + +On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The +sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice +should become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have +completed the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am +pleased with their appearance; the packing is not neat enough, +and we haven't got anything like a system.' + +Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each +with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads +were arranged on the theory of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs. +to each dog, but they very quickly discovered that the dogs were +not going to have anything to do with such a theory as this. The +best of them would only pull about 50 lbs., and some of the others +had practically to be pulled. + +Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and +dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner +of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement +caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another +reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing +their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly +cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great +deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or +two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to +realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats +grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled +down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally +thick woolly covering. + +The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men +had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had +no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however, +was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the +ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or +another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing +to show for our labors. The errors were patent; food, clothing, +everything was wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that +there would have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring, +and it was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which +this might be effected.' + +But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone +resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the +experience that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys +subsequently made in the spring were largely due to the failures +of the autumn. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE POLAR WINTER + + The cold ice slept below, + Above the cold sky shone, + And all around + With a chilling sound + From caves of ice and fields of snow + The breath of night like death did flow + Beneath the sinking moon. + --SHELLEY. + +The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time +could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by +the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before +the daylight vanished. + +One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological +screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds. +The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100 +yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which, +with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of +her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations +was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition, +and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded +every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm some member of the +community had to be on the alert, and every other hour to make the +rounds of the various instruments. On a fine night this was no +great hardship, but in stormy weather the task was not coveted by +anyone. On such occasions it was necessary to be prepared to resist +the wind and snowdrift, and the round itself was often full of +exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials and tribulations of +the meteorological observers were numerous, and it was arranged +that throughout the winter each officer should take it in turn +to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6 A.M. Wilson +nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation, but the +lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides +taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first +winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations +between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M. + +The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's +special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying +to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general +reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain +small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely +be answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth +is a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why +it is a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and +obviously the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a +phenomenon is to study it. For many reasons the Discovery's winter +station in the Antarctic was an especially suitable place in +which to record the phenomenon of magnetism. + +Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations +had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during +the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little +company had settled down to a regular round of daily life. + +Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for +the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after; +during these hours all without exception are busily employed +except for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would +be difficult to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the +palm would be given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough +sketch made since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and +detailed form, until we now possess a splendid pictorial +representation of the whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At +home many no doubt will remember the horrible depression of spirit +that has sometimes been pictured as a pendant to the long polar +night. We cannot even claim to be martyrs in this respect; with +plenty of work the days pass placidly and cheerfully.' + +Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of +the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were +to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched +from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration +for the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is +a thing assured. Our little society in the wardroom is governed +by a spirit of good fellowship and patience which is all that +the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly glad to be +one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The absence +of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout is +beyond even my best expectation.' + +This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable +feature of life during the time spent in the Discovery, and the +only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We shipped +him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained cook +became too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly for +the worse; I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is even +worse, he is dirty--an unforgivable crime in a cook.' + +Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have +been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather +was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North +Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in +the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm +days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little +reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all +of whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts, +and to make the best of a long job. + +During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each +day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's +work ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,' +the officers doing their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon +the living-spaces were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were +searched, and while the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became +a 'snipe marsh.' At this time the holds also were cleared up, the +bilges pumped out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh +layer of clean snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled +by the traffic of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands +followed, and after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the +time-honored one of 'Sweethearts and Wives.' + +On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer +or a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be +different from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30 +the decks had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and +the first lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble +imitation of the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection +followed, and Scott had the greatest faith in this system of +routine, not only because it had a most excellent effect on the +general discipline and cleanliness of the ship, but also because +it gave an opportunity to raise and discuss each new arrangement +that was made to increase the comfort of all on board. + +After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was +prepared for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all +placed according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read +the service, Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium. + +Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the +feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus +sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should +last us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of +the sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that +we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites +on Sunday.' + +On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the +mess-deck was decorated with designs in colored papers and festooned +with chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes +there was a great contest to have the best decorations, and some +astonishing results were achieved with little more than brightly +colored papers, a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each +table stood a grotesque figure or fanciful erection of ice, which +was cunningly lighted up by candles from within and sent out +shafts of sparkling light. 'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the +light-hearted scenes of to-day can end the first period of our +captivity, what room for doubt is there that we shall triumphantly +weather the whole term with the same general happiness and +contentment?' + +During the winter months the South Polar Times, edited by +Shackleton, appeared regularly, and was read with interest and +amusement by everyone. At first it had been decided that each +number should contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the +events and meteorological conditions of the past month, some +scientifically instructive articles dealing with the work and +surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the +scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures +and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in +connection with the Times was that the men contributed as well +as the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most +amusing, articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck. +But beyond all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson, +who produced drawings that deserved--and ultimately obtained--a +far wider appreciation than could be given to them in the Antarctic. +So great was the desire to contribute to the first number of +the S. P. T. that the editor's box was crammed with manuscripts +by the time the date for sending in contributions had arrived. +From these there was no difficulty in making a selection, but +as there was also some danger of hurting the feelings of those +whose contributions had been rejected, a supplementary journal +named The Blizzard was produced. This publication, however, had +but a brief career, for in spite of some good caricatures and a +very humorous frontispiece by Barne, it was so inferior to the +S. P. T. that even its contributors realized that their mission +in life did not lie in the paths of literary composition. The +Blizzard, in short, served its purpose, and then ceased to exist. + +In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable +during the dark months, the question of artificial light was as +difficult as it was important. Paraffin had from the first been +suggested as the most suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage +being that it is not a desirable oil to carry in quantities in +a ship. 'Our luckiest find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right +sort of lamp in which to burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic +explorer, Captain Egerton, presented me with a patent lamp in which +the draught is produced by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism, +and no chimney is needed. One can imagine the great mortality +there would be in chimneys if we were obliged to employ them, so +that when, on trial, this lamp was found to give an excellent +light, others of the same sort were purchased, and we now use them +exclusively in all parts of the ship with extremely satisfactory +results.' + +There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their +reach in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain +that they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic, +did their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been +provided for the hut, and which they had not previously thought +of using. 'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was +relieved by a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue +their occupations by the single burner placed in each compartment. +I lay great stress on this, because I am confident that this is +in every way the best illuminant that can be taken for a Polar +winter, and no future expedition should fail to supply themselves +with it.' + +As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to +be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave +in his diary a full and graphic account of the way he occupied +himself during his 'night on.' 'Each of us has his own way of +passing the long, silent hours. My own custom is to devote some +of it to laundry-work, and I must confess I make a very poor +fist of it. However, with a bath full of hot water, I commence +pretty regularly after the ten o'clock observation, and labor +away until my back aches. There is little difficulty with the +handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles, but when it comes +to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready to own my +incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing at the +same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff +which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is +never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is, +and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring +everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no +light task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to +the other; then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring +until I can wring no more; but even so, after it has been hung +for a few minutes on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin +to drip merrily on the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh. +I shall always have a high respect for laundry-work in future, +but I do not think it can often have to cope with such thick +garments as we wear. + +'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations. +The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which +are scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with +tea or cocoa and a spirit-lamp. Everyone has his own ideas as +to how sardines should be prepared... and I scarcely like to +record that there is a small company of gourmets, who actually +wake one another up in order that the night-watchman may present +his fellow epicures with a small finger of buttered toast, on +which are poised two sardines "done to a turn." The awakened +sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts his satisfaction, and +goes placidly off into dreamland again. + +'I find that after my labors at the wash-tub and the pleasing +supper that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair +without fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the +ever-soothing pipe and one's latest demand on the library +book-shelves, one settles down in great peace and contentment +whilst keeping an eye on the flying hours, ready to sally forth +into the outer darkness at the appointed time. + +'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely +dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure, +but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship, +the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties, +and to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with +his inclination. + +'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced +to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on +the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious +that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to +stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature.... +These and many other difficulties in taking observations which +may be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I +think we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole +whose value must stand or fall by attention to detail.' + +At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in +a mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted +out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in +a line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice. +The earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus +for the next two months they remained in sight. But then another +gale brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it +in the neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found +to be buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no +feelings of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott +ordered the snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until +the first boat had been reached was the true state of affairs +revealed. She was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which +she was nearly filled, and though for a moment there was a wild +hope that she could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the +air temperature promptly converted the slush into hardened ice, +and so she was stuck fast. + +Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats, +because as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water +would have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to +worse before the summer brought hope with it, parties were engaged +day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in the +course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger was +that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats so +far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and +after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all +appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however, +of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the +ship, and also the feeling that so much labor must tell in the +end, spurred on the diggers to renewed vigor, but it was not +until December that the boats were finally liberated. + +Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible +for an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again +emphasized the bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the +smaller compartment of the main hut completing a set of pendulum +observations, while Royds was in the larger compartment--the +hut was used for many and various purposes--rehearsing his nigger +minstrel troupe. Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific +work did not go hand in hand, or because their work was finished, +Bernacchi and Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the +hut to return to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards +Royds and his troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back, +and found that the gale had increased and that the whirling snow +prevented them from seeing anything. Being, however, in such +numbers, they were able to join hands and sweep along until they +caught the guide-rope leading to the gangway; and then as they +traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and again extending +their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton, who, having +entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting on +the chance of being heard and rescued. + +The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter +was not only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by +guide-ropes and other means of direction, which if encountered +would have informed the wanderers of their position. Additionally +Bernacchi and Skelton could be trusted to take the most practical +course in any difficulty, and so it seems the more incredible +that they could actually have been lost for two hours. Both of +them were severely frostbitten about the face and legs, but bitter +as their experience was it served as yet another warning to those +who were to go sledding in the spring that no risks could be +taken in such a capricious climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing +his troupe on this occasion the results to Bernacchi and Skelton +must have been more disastrous than they were; consequently the +idea of using the large hut as a place of entertainment was +fortunate in more ways than one. + +During the first week of May a concert had been given in the +hut, but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment; +for Royds, who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had +arranged a long program with the object of bringing to light any +possible talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical +had to confess that most of the performers would have been less +out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability, however, +was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing a +play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy, +was produced on June 25. + +This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy +in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for +one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been +so gorgeously entertained.' + +Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe, +and when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30 +on August 6, the temperature outside them was -40°, while inside +it was well below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder +that the audience was glad when the curtain went up. 'There is +no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance, 'that +sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had taken +an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and +"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable +top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling +a string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs +led by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the +very great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.' + +So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards +to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days +passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return. +But on that day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded +by whirling snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed +by a wild burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone +on board in such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be +far over the hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be +seen. The following day, however, was an ideal one for the first +view of the long-absent sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater +Hill to watch and welcome. 'Over all the magnificent view the +sunlight spreads with gorgeous effect after its long absence; +a soft pink envelops the western ranges, a brilliant red gold +covers the northern sky; to the north also each crystal of snow +sparkles with reflected light. The sky shows every gradation +of light and shade; little flakes of golden sunlit cloud float +against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover in the middle +heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus shades +to grey on its unlit sides.' + +But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut +Point, to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no +enthusiasm. Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual +in keeping its appointment, but after all they had seen the sun +a good many times before, and in the next few months they would +in all probability see it a good many times again, and there was +no sense in getting excited about it. Some of them did set off at +a run for the point, while others, since it seemed the right thing +to do, followed at a walk, but a good number remained on board +and had their dinner. On August 25 the Feast of the Sun was duly +celebrated, and the days that followed were fuller than ever with +preparations for the spring journeys. The only sewing-machine +clattered away all day long, and the whole company plied their +needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed taskmasters. +The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the best of spirits, +was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge journeys, and +making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind and the +weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was taken +to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others, and +especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons +the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been +immense. + +In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding +expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single +sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made +in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were +not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory +could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of +time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but +fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway. +In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there +received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was +not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in command +of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could rely +to provide the sledding outfit. + +In making these preparations for long journeys in the south, +there was no previous experience to go upon except that which +had been gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume +that southern conditions would be more or less similar to those +of the north, and in so far as they proved different the sledding +outfit ran the risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in +many respects the sledding conditions of the south were different +from those of the north, and so it is only fair to consider the +sledge journeys taken by the Discovery expedition as pioneer +efforts. These differences are both climatic and geographical. +For instance, the conditions in the south are more severe than +those in the north, both in the lowness of the temperatures and +in the distressing frequency of blizzards and strong winds. And +the geographical difference between the work of the northern +and the southern sledge-traveler is as great as the climatic, if +not greater, for the main part of northern traveling has been +and will be done on sea-ice, while the larger part of southern +traveling has been and will be done over land surfaces, or what +in this respect are their equivalents. + +[Illustration: Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.] + +So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge +over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate +maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice, +that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers +must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later +on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over +the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that--given the +surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge +parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by +the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for +the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions, and +while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely to +meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records is +not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the +same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled +are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and +of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service. + +The main differences between the sledges used by the Discovery +expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in +breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from +the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's +sledges were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners +themselves were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track +from side to side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths +varied from 12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved +to be by far the most convenient--a length of 12 feet seeming +to pass just beyond the limit of handiness. + +Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of +sledge, it will be seen that it differed considerably from the +old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and 3 feet broad. The +weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything between 40 and +47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full strength of +the structure was required. Generally speaking, the full load +that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most important +part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must be +perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily; +but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood +runner would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow. +'Some of our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000 +miles, and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.' + +In point of numbers the Discovery's crew was far behind the old +Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott decide, +in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would +do most of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest +workable units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties +of at least eight, who, having a common tent and cooking +arrangements, could not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not +necessarily to limit the number of men in his parties, but to +divide them into units of three, which should be self-contained, +so that whenever it was advisable a unit could be detached from +the main party. Under such a system it is obvious that each unit +must have its own tent, sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and +therein lay a disadvantage, as economy of material and weight +can be better carried out with a large unit than with a small +one. + +The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two +headings: the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the +trip, and the consumable, including food, oil, &c. The following +is a list of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to +the west, and it will give some idea of the variety of articles, +exclusive of provisions. The party numbered six. + + lbs. + 2 Sledges with fittings complete 130 + Trace 5 + 2 Cookers, pannikins and spoons 30 + 2 Primus lamps, filled 10 + 2 Tents complete 60 + 2 Spades 9 + 2 Sleeping-bags with night-gear 100 + Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko 50 + [Footnote: Reindeer-fur boots.] + Medical bag 6 + 3 Ice-axes 8 + Bamboos and marks 11.5 + Instruments and camera 50 + Alpine rope 9 + Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape, + sledge brakes 15 + Ski boots for party 15 + Ski for party 60 + + Total 568.5 + +Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his +load was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total +carrying capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could +be devoted to provisions. + +Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks' +food for a party of six, but as such a short period is often +not long enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled +to organize means by which their journey can be prolonged. This +can be done in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the +season and lay a depôt at a considerable distance towards their +goal, or they may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting +party, which accompanies them for a certain distance on the road +and helps their advance party to drag a heavier load than they +can accomplish alone. + +Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important +journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship +for long periods and to travel long distances. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY + + Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit + To its full height... + + ...Shew us here + That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not. + For there is none so mean or base + That have not noble lustre in your eyes. + I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, + Straining upon the start. + --SHAKESPEARE. + +During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been +turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times +the advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed. +This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which +Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the +end of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was +always repugnant to his nature. + +'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not +greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that +they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death, +is equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be +justified by the gain, and I think that logically it may be; +but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob +sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever +made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception +which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships, +dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and +by days and weeks of hard physical labor succeed in solving some +problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest +is more nobly and splendidly won.' + +When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of +dogs had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained +for the southern journey, all but one--and he was killed at an +earlier period--left their bones on the great southern plains. +This briefly is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances +under which they met their deaths will be mentioned later on. + +[Illustration: Sledding.] + +Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make +a short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers +and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of +harness, and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large +or small teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted +from September 2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently +with four dogs harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if +the first team got away all right, the others were often keen to +play the game of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was +a positive spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two competing +teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural result +that when they were near enough to see what was happening, they +decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a free +fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with a +mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and +teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even +in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results +showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties, +and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which +the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing +and which the lazy ones. + +On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west +with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott +wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a +glance the vast improvement that has been made since last year. +The sledges were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think +of the slovenly manner in which we conducted things last autumn; +at any rate here is a first result of the care and attention +of the winter.' + +Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following +day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the +dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start +on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17. + +On the morning of that day he and his two companions, Barne and +Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams, left the +ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped for +lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer +was down to -43°. + +The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together +with a quantity of stores to form a depôt, the whole giving a +load of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined to +be only a short and bitter experience. + +The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were +so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting +of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he +found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of +my sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed +forth on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent +or my companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it +could mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly +awoke me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in +some extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.' + +At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding +snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping +across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to +the tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and +the tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its +securing, that something had to be done at once to prevent it +from blowing away altogether. + +So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually +pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it, +they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while +they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An +attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible, +while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would +hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then +they were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once +more over the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly +hanging on and warning each other of frostbitten features, their +sleeping-bags became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were +lying in masses of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by +ceaseless exertions so far become masters of the situation, that +there was no further need for the tent to be held with anything +except the weight of their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of +hands showed a number of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had +not recovered from the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To +have hung on to the tent through all those hours must have been +positive agony to him, yet he never uttered a word of complaint.' + +By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few +hours' sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on +after this most miserable experience was very unwise, since by +returning to the ship they would only lose one day's march and +everything could be dried for a fresh start. + +Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the +rest of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and +were found quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On +the journey back the thermometer recorded -53°, and the effect +of such a temperature upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall +remember the condition of my trousers for a long while; they +might have been cut out of sheet iron. It was some time before I +could walk with any sort of ease, and even when we reached the +ship I was conscious of carrying an armor plate behind me.... +It will certainly be a very long time before I go to sleep again +in a tent which is not properly secured.' + +On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers +had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain, +Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding. +Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and +to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the +morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that +he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the +south, with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave +orders to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever +turns and twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light +he could see the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the +bare ice surface, by slight differences in shade, and though he +could not see them where they dived into the valleys, he found +that the bridges were strong enough to bear. In his desire to use +the snowy patches as far as possible, the course he took was very +irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut corners. In this +manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott suddenly heard +a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that Feather had +vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right, but their +leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that the trace +had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his great +relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon hauled +up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through where +it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of few +words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to +cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt +that he had a very close call. + +After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant +to give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the +four sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up +and down in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing +not a single thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which +it had fallen. It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was, +but, after some consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed +that he should be let down and undertake the very cold job of +unpacking it. So he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope, +while the other was used for hauling up the various packages; +and at last the load was got up, and the lightened sledge soon +followed. After this incident they thought it prudent to treat +these numerous crevasses with more respect, and on proceeding +they roped themselves together; but although no more mishaps +occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute this +to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day, I +cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not the +least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and +the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion +can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there +were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb +that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."' + +The depôt, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and 150 lbs. +of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and besides +marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful to +take angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could +see. Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what +was meant no longer required any driving. On the homeward march +the travelers went for all they were worth, and in spite of +perpetual fog covered eighty-five statute miles in less than +three days. + +On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most +delightful place. The sense of having done what he wanted to +do had something to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but +it was the actual physical comfort after days of privation that +chiefly affected him. The joy of possessing the sledding appetite +was sheer delight, and for many days after the travelers returned +from their sledding-trips, they retained a hunger which it seemed +impossible to satisfy. + +In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with +himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all +his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered +what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment, +had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this +was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy--the disease that +has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part +in the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of +which everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations +cannot fail to realize. + +This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when +he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's +medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all +attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion. + +Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but +the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts, +and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance +to break out. + +Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything +in her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party, +sent out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was +given that no tinned meat of any description should be issued. +By October 20 this grave disease had to all intents and purposes +passed away, but although evidence showed that it was caused by +tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best quality, +and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities, there +was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble. + +This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for +when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health +and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on +the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this +pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished +with astonishing rapidity, it was--quite apart from the benefit +lost to medical science--very annoying not to be able to say +definitely from what the evil had sprung. + +But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated, +and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence, +preparations for the various journeys were pushed on with no +less vigor and enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was +nothing really to be alarmed about, and everyone played it with +the greatest success. + +Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party +would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance +from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability +no further depôts could be established, it was desirable that this +party should be supported as far as possible on their route. To +meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party of +twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights were +reduced to an amount which the dogs could drag without assistance. +Then Barne was to return to the ship, and after a short rest start +again with six men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff. +As soon as this was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal +all the men and material left in the ship for his attack on the +western region. + +On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks +before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned +with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the +'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be +sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had +a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the +expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find +that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately +after the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and +with no symptom of the disease. + +From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents +by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased +they were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in +fact one tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants +could be got into the open, while the sledges and everything left +outside were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated +round the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of +canvas, and reduced the interior space to such an extent that +those inside were obliged to lie with their knees bent double. +Royds, whose reports were invariably very brief and to the point, +dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page, but no +great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible +discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party +recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were +scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were +the amusing incidents that had happened. + +On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and +among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only +testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery +on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest +type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity +of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to +face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no +small satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the +habits of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all +others of the feathered tribe.' + +Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern +journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it +was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne +and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left +a few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning, +amidst a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and +employed it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles... +Barne's banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack, +and another carried a flag with a large device stating "No dogs +needs apply"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting +sight to see nearly the whole of our small company step out on +the march with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this +kind promised to be done as heartily.' + +And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward +to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he, +Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades, +started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on +the floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany +us for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great +effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in +spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had +to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest +of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all +tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and +still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards +they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out +to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the +same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by +bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott +camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march. + +During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and +re-passed each other, since it was impossible for Scott to push +on ahead of Barne's party, and the latter's progress was very +slow, as they could get no hold with their fur boots, and they +found their ski leather boots dreadfully cold for their feet. To +add to the slowness of the journey the weather was very unfavorable, +and the greater parts of the 8th and 9th were entirely wasted by a +blizzard. On the 10th Depôt A, that had previously been laid, was +reached and Scott wrote: 'Already it seems to me that the dogs feel +the monotony of a long march over the snow more than we do; they +seem easily to get dispirited, and that it is not due to fatigue +is shown when they catch a glimpse of anything novel.... To-day, +for instance, they required some driving until they caught sight +of the depôt flag, when they gave tongue loudly and dashed off as +though they barely felt the load behind them.' + +The names of the dogs were: + + Nigger Birdie Wolf + Jim Nell Vic + Spud Blanco Bismarck + Snatcher Grannie Kid + Fitzclarence Lewis Boss + Stripes Gus Brownie + Joe + +Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern +party did not already know concerning their individualities, they had +ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next few weeks. + +Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally +for himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved +so unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things, +that he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could +scarcely be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move, +and in camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow +being shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring +up and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark +of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when +the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every +movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed +his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push +affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come +along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the +evening halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks +and remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting +on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew +perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards, +however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note +could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if +disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first +of all. + +Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly +clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up +to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at +pretending to pull; Spud was generally considered to be daft; +Birdie evidently had been treated badly in his youth and remained +distrustful and suspicious to the end; Kid was the most +indefatigable worker in the team; Wolf's character possessed no +redeeming point of any kind, while Brownie though a little too +genteel for very hard work was charming as a pet, and it may also +be said of him that he never lost an opportunity of using his +pleasant appearance and delightful ways to lighten his afflictions. +The load for this dog team after Depôt A had been passed was 1,850 +lbs., which, considering that some of the dogs were of little +use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten that the men also +expected to pull, and that each night the weight would be reduced +by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers were nearly +up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south than anyone +had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused great jubilation, +and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer than fifteen +of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the record.' A +photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then half of the +supporting party started to return, and the other half stepped +out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following. + +By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned +back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's +work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is +evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme +toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day.... We have decided +that if things have not improved in the morning we will take on +half a load at a time; after a few days of this sort of thing the +loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to continue in the old +way again.' + +On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads +promptly and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to +divide the load into two portions and take half on at a time. This +meant, of course, that each mile had to be traveled three times, +but there was no alternative to this tedious form of advance. +Even, however, with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost +all their spirit, and at the end of the march on the 18th they +were practically 'done.' Only five geographical miles [Footnote: +7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute miles.] were +gained on that day, but to do it they had to cover fifteen. + +On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse, +and it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were +eating permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had +intended to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in +an unlucky moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving +to take fish. The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such +as is split, dried and exported from that country in great +quantities for human food. But one important point was overlooked, +namely the probability of the fish being affected on passing +through the tropics. The lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that +in future travelers in the south should safeguard their dogs +as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was the +dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours +in their tent which might have been devoted to marching. + +Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the +monotony of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st, +and as the prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily +disappearing, it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and +edge towards it. Then the surface over which they were traveling +showed signs of improvement, but the travelers themselves were +beginning to suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and +their eyes were also troubling them. Appetites, however, were +increasing by leaps and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked +to on our long marches is the prospect of the next meal.' + +On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little +variation in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the +first half-load one of the three stopped with it, and got up +the tent and prepared the meal while the other two brought up +the second half-load. And then on the following day came one +of those rewards which was all the sweeter because it had been +gained by ceaseless and very monotonous toil. + +'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote, +'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80° 1'. All our charts +of the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond the +eightieth parallel... It has always been our ambition to get +inside that white space, and now we are there the space can no +longer be a blank; this compensates for a lot of trouble.' + +A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so +exhausted that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather +had not compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always +able to foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he +invariably suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he +could not help being a very effective barometer. + +After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning +of the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no +time to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest, +and there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine +of relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement +in the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land +in hopes of making a depôt; so the course was laid to the westward +of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they +were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty +miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day +has only given us a bare four miles.' + +Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work +and the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that +they marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was +between 4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp +somewhere between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested +while the sun was at its greatest height; but although there were +certainly advantages in this, Scott could not get rid of a curious +feeling that something was amiss with such a topsy-turvy method of +procedure. + +By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out +some of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of +mountains, which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at +least fifty miles away. By far the nearest point of land was +an isolated snow-cape, an immense, and almost dome-shaped, +snow-covered mass. At first no rock at all could be seen on it, +but as they got nearer a few patches began to appear. For one +of these patches they decided to make so that they might establish +a depôt, but at the rate at which they were traveling there was +little hope of reaching it for several days. + +By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that +when the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin, +and both smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But +what saddened them more than this taste of paraffin was the +discovery, on December 5, that their oil was going too fast. +A gallon was to have lasted twelve days, but on investigation +it was found on an average to have lasted only ten, which meant +that in the future each gallon would have to last a fortnight. +'This is a distinct blow, as we shall have to sacrifice our hot +luncheon meal and to economize greatly at both the others. We +started the new routine to-night, and for lunch ate some frozen +seal-meat and our allowance of sugar and biscuit.' + +It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was +not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when +the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional +discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when +Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's +balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his +hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance +of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his +gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort +from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was +a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and +on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily +going downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than +counter-balanced by the weakening of the animals, and I can see +no time in which we can hope to get the sledges along without +pulling ourselves.' + +By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast, +but so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and +even supposing they did get there and make a depôt, they doubted +very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog, +Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been +got to move with the second load by the ignominious device of +carrying food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was +agony to those who had to drive and coax them on, and though +Scott refers often in these days to the hunger that was nipping +him, no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely +more he was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about +his own troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.' + +At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost +spent, at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march +they had only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous +exertions, for the snow became softer as they approached the +land, and the sledge-runners sank from three to four inches. +On any particularly soft patch they could do little more than +mark time, and even to advance a yard was an achievement. + +No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions +and a quantity of dog-food in Depôt B and had resumed their march, +sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know how +to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay +work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst +I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more, +I am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare, +which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief +was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs +were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment +have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced, +and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise +to push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer +was that the risk of going on should be taken, but on that same +night Wilson, in view of future plans, reported to Scott that +his medical examinations revealed that Shackleton had decidedly +angry-looking gums, and that for some time they had been slowly +but surely getting worse. It was decided not to tell Shackleton +of these symptoms of scurvy, and as the bacon they were using +seemed likely to be the cause of them, it was discarded and an +increased allowance of seal given in its place. This was a loss +in weight which was serious, for already they were reduced almost +to starvation rations of about a pound and a half a day. + +Supper was the best meal, for then they had a hoosh which ran +from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but even +this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being +heated in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but +the lamp was turned out directly the hoosh boiled, and by that +time the chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker. +Of course the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were +long past criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted +was something to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got +it. Half an hour after supper was over they were as hungry as ever. + +When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea +that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience +showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid +system of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to +divide things into three equal portions, and as the man who made +the division felt called upon to take the smallest share, the +game of 'shut-eye' was invented to stop all arguments and +remonstrances. The shares were divided as equally as possible +by someone, then one of the other two turned his head away and +the divider pointed to a portion and said, 'Whose is this?' He +of the averted head named the owner, and thus this simple but +useful game was played. + +Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not +encouraging, but they had reached a much harder surface and under +those conditions Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet +time to say 'Turn.' Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them, +and for a week they had all agreed that it would be a crime to +go to bed hungry on that night. In fact they meant it to be a +wonderful day, and everything conspired to make it so. + +The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of +wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as +the scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for +once they were going to have a really substantial breakfast, +and this was an irresistible counter-attraction. + +And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than +they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better +that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs. +On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven +miles, the longest march they had made for a long time. So when +camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with the day, and +ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered. A double +'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot, and in +the hoosh that followed a spoon would stand without any support, +and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point. + +'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is +still circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is +warm and quiet. All is pleasant without, and within we have a +sense of comfort we have not known for many a day; we shall sleep +well tonight--no dreams, no tightening of the belt. + +'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the +conversation turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas +is like in England... and how our friends picture us. They will +guess that we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps +think of us on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the +truth, that for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.' + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE RETURN + + How many weary steps + Of many weary miles you have o'ergone, + Are numbered to the travel of one mile. + --SHAKESPEARE. + +Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day +wore off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise +uninterrupted spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered +long after hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this +time they knew that they had cut themselves too short in the +matter of food, but the only possible alteration that could now +be made in their arrangements was to curtail their journey, and +rather than do that they were ready cheerfully to face the distress +of having an enormous appetite, and very little with which to +appease it. + +Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the +ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing +weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a +greater rate than they could renew them, and that the additional +weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would +have been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength +and vigor. + +Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another +disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it +was impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before +they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would +give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast, +while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps +went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced +before another meal. + +But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could +eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping +up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental +and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they +knew that they were penetrating farther and farther into the +unknown. Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their +labors more assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving +sledge-meter or looked for the calculated results of their +observations, it is not surprising that above all the desires +for food was an irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to +extend the line which they were now drawing on the white space +of the Antarctic chart. + +Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land +was passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without +the disclosure of some new feature, something on which the eye +of man had never rested; we should have been poor souls indeed +had we not been elated at the privilege of being the first to +gaze on these splendid scenes.' + +From the point of view of further exploration their position +on December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high +undulating snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the +south lay a cape beyond which they could not hope to pass, and +to all appearances these conditions were likely to remain to +the end of their journey. But on that night they had christened +a distant and lofty peak 'Mount Longstaff,' in honor of the man +whose generosity had alone made the expedition possible, and +although they thought that this was the most southerly land to +which they would be able to give a name, they were in no mood +to turn back because the outlook was unpromising. Arguing on +the principle that it was impossible to tell what may turn up, +they all decided to push on; and their decision was wise, for +had they returned at that point one of the most important features +of the whole coast-line would have been missed. + +On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, +which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott +had remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry: +'When it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days +he will spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent +sketching each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene +to the west. His sketches are most astonishingly accurate; I +have tested his proportions by actual angular measurements and +found them correct.... But these long hours in the glare are +very bad for the eyes; we have all suffered a good deal from +snow-blindness of late, though we generally march with goggles, +but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear it is mainly due +to his sketching.' + +The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than +anything that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th +Wilson was pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely +covered. To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch +the bottom of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest +intention of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and +telling him of the changes that were happening around them he +plodded steadily on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it +happened that a most glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed +itself. With some excitement Scott noticed that new mountain +ridges were appearing as high as anything they had seen to the +north, and his excitement increased when these ridges grew higher +and higher. Then, instead of a downward turn in the distant outline +came a steep upward line, and as they pressed on apace to see +what would happen next, Scott did his best to keep Wilson posted +up in the latest details. The end came in a gloriously sharp +double peak crowned with a few flecks of cirrus cloud, and all +they could think of in camp that night was this splendid twin-peaked +mountain, which even in such a lofty country looked like a giant +among pigmies. 'At last we have found something which is fitting +to bear the name of him whom we must always the most delight +to honor, and "Mount Markham" it shall be called in memory of +the father of the expedition.' + +Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss +this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to +be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect +view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the +limit of their journey would be reached, and that they would +have but few more opportunities to increase their stock of +information. + +After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most +interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags, +full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead +of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the +tent while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when +they got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped +in a thick fog. + +Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their +last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached. +Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though +this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped +for when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he +anticipated when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says, +'one cannot help a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting +on the "might have been" had our team remained in good health, +one cannot but remember that even as it is we have made a greater +advance towards a pole of the earth than has ever yet been achieved +by a sledge party.' + +With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Depôt +B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year, +and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving +dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many +of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but +those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had +of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to +the suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely +he felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January +3. This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite +played out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid" +caved in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled +like a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him +up till his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team +now remained, and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but +Nigger, though weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But +at the end of a week on the return journey, all of the remaining +dogs were asked to do nothing except walk by the sledges. + +For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered +ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling +was as nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer +having to drive a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering +and dragging in front would be needed, no more tangled traces +would have to be put straight, and above all there would be no +more whip. So far steady though rather slow progress had been +made, but January 8 brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they +would the sledge could scarcely be made to move, and after three +hours of the hardest work only a mile and a quarter had been +gained. Sadly they were compelled to admit that the surface had +so completely changed that the only thing to do was to remain +in camp until it improved. But whether it would improve was an +anxious matter, for they had less than a week's provisions and +were at least fifty miles from Depôt B. + +The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and +a fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were +left, Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost +out of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and +marched along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling. +But this more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by +a march in a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had +even a more serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind +them they had gained many miles, but the march had tired them +out, because instead of the steady pulling to which they were +accustomed they had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes +to pull forwards, backwards, sideways, and always with their +senses keenly alert and their muscles strung up for instant action. + +On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote: +'We cannot now be far from our depôt, but then we do not exactly +know where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if +this thick weather continues we shall probably not be able to +find it.' And after two more days of bad surface and thick weather +he wrote again: 'There is no doubt we are approaching a very +critical time. The depôt is a very small spot on a very big ocean +of snow; with luck one might see it at a mile and a half or two +miles, and fortune may direct our course within this radius of +it; but, on the other hand, it is impossible not to contemplate +the ease with which such a small spot can be missed.... The annoying +thing is that one good clear sight of the land would solve all +our difficulties.' + +At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever. +Three hours' incessant labor had gained only three-quarters of +a mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag +was a mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that +remained in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But +later on Scott caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and +tumbled hastily out of his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining +a meridional altitude; and after getting the very best result +he could under the very difficult conditions prevailing, he casually +lowered the telescope and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly +a speck seemed to flash by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose. +Then he brought the telescope slowly back, and there it was again, +and accompanied this time by two smaller specks on either side +of it. Without a shadow of doubt it was the depôt which meant +the means of life to them. 'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's +the depôt." We are not a demonstrative party, but I think we +excused ourselves for the wild cheer that greeted this announcement.' + +In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though +the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different +mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as +possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten +as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they +were going to have the fat hoosh which would once more give them +an internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the depôt, +and there they found everything as they had left it. + +On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver +from the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by +the fat hoosh of their dreams they completed the comparison between +the two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners. +Having equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the +sledges round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely +move the metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other. + +Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only +about 130 miles to cover to their next depôt, a full three weeks' +provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood runners, +they went to bed feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been +lifted. The chief cause of worry left was the question of health, +and the result of a thorough medical examination on the morning +of the 14th did nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found +to be very far indeed from well, but although Scott and Wilson +both showed symptoms of scurvy they still felt that, as far as +they were concerned, there was no danger of a breakdown. + +On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of +it Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really +alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but +we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse; +now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be +sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it +had to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning. + +'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his +restless, energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night +I have talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work, +but to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must +be devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck +to bring him through.' + +With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic +story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors +of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the +camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through +our most troublous time we always looked forward to getting some +of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then +seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should +be able to bring back these two.' + +During the part of the return journey which was now beginning, +they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that +it resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick +companion. The weather also added to their troubles, because +it was so overcast that steering was extremely difficult. For +nearly ten consecutive days this gloomy weather continued to +harass them, but on the 20th it cleared as they were on their +march, and on the following day with a brisk southerly breeze +and their sail set they traveled along at a fine rate. The state +of Shackleton's health was still a source of acutest anxiety, +but each march brought safety nearer and nearer, and on the 23rd +Scott was able to write in a much more hopeful spirit. Next day +a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was seen, but this encouraging +sight was accompanied by a new form of surface which made the +pulling very wearisome. An inch or so beneath the soft snow surface +was a thin crust, almost, but not quite, sufficient to bear their +weight. The work of breaking such a surface as this would, Scott +says, have finished Shackleton in no time, but luckily he was +able to go on ski and avoid the jars. 'In spite of our present +disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess that if we get back +safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair he is now using.' + +[Illustration: Mount Erebus.] + +But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott +and Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to +chance, and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition +would allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off +and got well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and +after lunch the same procedure was adopted. By this means he +was able to take things easily, and though eager to do his share +of the work he was wise enough to see that every precaution taken +was absolutely necessary. + +Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between, +but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered +them to think that they had seen something that was actually +beyond the ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away, +but they had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance +that they were not in the least astonished by this. + +January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on +as usual the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon +afterwards discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no +doubt that the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey +work to the west, but it was wonderful what that track told them. +They could see that there had been six men with two sledges, +and that all of the former had been going strong and well on +ski. From the state of the track this party had evidently passed +about four days before on the homeward route, and from the +zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must +have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added +some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study. +But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne +and his party were safe, and this after their own experiences +was a great relief. + +Another day and a half of labor brought them to the depôt, and +the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our tent +was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish +glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil +enough for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have +lasted us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag +which we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just +opened this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents. +There are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup +squares, pea soup, and many other delights that already make +our mouths water. For each one of us there is some special trifle +which the forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being +an extra packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are +a whole heap of folded letters and notes--billets-doux indeed. +I wonder if a mail was ever more acceptable.' + +The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labor, had succeeded +in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's +egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal +itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an unqualified success, +for after being accustomed to starvation or semi-starvation rations, +they were in no condition either to resist or to digest any unstinted +meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered acutely. + +On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and +the first thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned +when Shackleton was found to be extremely ill. Everything now +depended upon the weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott +doubted if Shackleton would even be well enough to be carried +on the sledge. 'It is a great disappointment; last night we thought +ourselves out of the wood with all our troubles behind us, and +to-night matters seem worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are +pretty fit, and we have lots of food.' By great luck the weather +cleared on the morning of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a +very bad night revived a little it was felt that the only chance +was to go on. 'At last he was got away, and we watched him almost +tottering along with frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our +provisions, in half an hour we had packed our camp, set our sail, +and started with the sledges. It was not long before we caught +our invalid, who was so exhausted that we thought it wiser he +should sit on the sledges, where for the remainder of the forenoon, +with the help of our sail, we carried him.' + +In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the +blizzard, but fortune favored them during the last stages of the +struggle homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful +effect upon the sick man. By the night of February 2 they were +within ten or twelve miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of +a successful end to their troubles. During the afternoon they +had passed round the corner of White Island, and as they did +so the old familiar outline of the friendly peninsula suddenly +opened up before them. On every side were suggestions of home, +and their joy at seeing the well-known landmarks was increased +by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent as three persons +can well be.' + +Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his +companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew +how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And +both Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been +advancing rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to +themselves or each other how 'done' they were. For many a day +Wilson had suffered from lameness, and each morning had vainly +tried to disguise his limp, but from his set face Scott knew +well enough how much he suffered before the first stiffness wore +off. 'As for myself, for some time I have hurried through the +task of changing my foot-gear in an attempt to forget that my +ankles are considerably swollen. One and all we want rest and +peace, and, all being well, tomorrow, thank Heaven, we shall get +them.' + +These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during +this remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up +their camp for the last time and set their faces towards Observation +Hill. Brilliant weather still continued, and after plodding on for +some hours two specks appeared, which at first were thought to be +penguins, but presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them. +Early in the morning they had been reported by watchers on the +hills, and Skelton and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them. + +Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened +to a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other +travelers returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but +the relief ship, the Morning, had also arrived and brought a +whole year's news. + +So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed, +they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from +December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts +busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved +ship. + +Though still held fast in her icy prison the Discovery looked +trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion +a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while +as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with +their cheering comrades. + +With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their +shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them, +no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time +it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to +be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended, and that +rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three days +they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the +fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered +960 statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the +beginning had not been completely achieved, they knew at any +rate that they had striven and endured to the limit of their +powers. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +A SECOND WINTER + + As cold waters to a thirsty soul, + So is good news from a far country. + --PROVERBS. + +In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources +of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his +absence, and that parties had been going and coming and ever +adding to the collection of knowledge. + +On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how +the Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid +progress had been made in the preparations for the western party +that November 9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a +general holiday and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic +sports. + +Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the +toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple +had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no +sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start +was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the +queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number +were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something +of a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate +arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from +the same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what +was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion +secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race +was considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start +it was seen that this couple had labored in vain; for although +they shot ahead at first, their speed was so great that they +could not control their machine. In a moment they were rolling +head-over-heels in clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus +amusing itself a tortoise slid past and won the race. + +By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey, +and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound +and attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton +and ten men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar, +Dellbridge and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage +and his party during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt +a practicable road to the interior was discovered and traversed, +and the barrier of mountains that had seemed so formidable an +obstruction from the ship was conquered. It was equally certain +that the party could claim to be the first to set foot on the +interior of Victoria Land but they had been forced to turn back +at an extremely interesting point, and in consequence were unable +to supply very definite information with regard to the ice-cap. +They had, however, fulfilled their main object, and in doing so +had disclosed problems that caused the deepest interest to be +focussed upon the direction in which they had traveled. + +Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among +the rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits. +These, with other observations, showed the strong probability +of the existence of sedimentary deposits which might be reached +and examined, and which alone could serve to reveal the geological +history of this great southern continent. At all hazards Scott +determined that the geologist of the expedition must be given +a chance to explore this most interesting region. + +The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically +stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on +shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that +remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by +resorting to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful +expeditions. + +While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the +ship was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on +board in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic +measures had to be taken before they could be released from their +beds of ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen +depths, it was not possible that the task could be accomplished +without doing considerable damage. When at length all of them +had been brought to the surface their condition was exceedingly +dilapidated; indeed only two of them were in a condition to float; +but although it was evident that the carpenter would be busy for +many weeks before they would be seaworthy, their reappearance was +a tremendous relief. + +Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions +that the Discovery should be prepared for sea by the end of +January. Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there was +still plenty of employment for everybody, since 'preparations for +sea' under such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount of +labor. Tons and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck with +pick-axes and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes had +to be looked to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything +got ready for handling the ship under sail; many things that +had been displaced or landed near the shore-station had to be +brought on board and secured in position; thirty tons of ice +had to be fetched, melted, and run into the boilers; below, +steam-pipes had to be rejointed, glands re-packed, engines turned +by hand, and steam raised to see that all was in working order. + +Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship, +this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern +travelers returned all was ready for them to put to sea again. + +But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back +to safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival +of the Morning. How the funds were raised by means of which this +ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was due to +the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir Clements +Markham that the Morning, commanded by Lieutenant William Colbeck, +R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on July 9, 1902. + +Long before the Discovery had left New Zealand the idea of a +relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great +difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if +the thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it. +Obviously then it was desirable to leave as much information +as possible on the track, and the relief ship was to try and +pick up clues at the places where Scott had said that he would +attempt to leave them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession +Islands, Coulman Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape +Crozier. + +On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there +Colbeck heard of the Discovery's safe arrival in the south. The +Possession Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been +able to land there, and south of this the whole coast was so +thickly packed that the Morning could not approach either Coulman +Island or Wood Bay. + +Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but without result; +and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not until four days +later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck himself +joined the landing party, and after spending several hours in +fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning +despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly +a small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it, +and in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into +the mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the Discovery, +and practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do. + +On board the Discovery the idea had steadily grown that a relief +ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had begun to look +upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of January it +was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke had been +seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally received +without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down the hill +on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a ship +in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable +of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early +on the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The Morning was +lying some ten miles north of the Discovery, but it was far easier +to see her than to reach her. At last, however, the party, after +various little adventures, stood safely on deck and received the +warmest of welcomes. + +During the last week of January the weather was in its most glorious +mood, and with some of the treacherous thin ice breaking away the +Morning was able to get a mile nearer. Parties constantly passed +to and fro between the two ships, and everyone--with unshaken +confidence that the Discovery would soon be free--gave themselves +up to the delight of fresh companionship, and the joy of good news +from the home country. To this scene of festivity and cheeriness +Scott, Wilson and Shackleton returned on February 3, and though +the last to open their letters they had the satisfaction of knowing +that the Morning had brought nothing but good news. + +By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern +party's return to make his first visit to the Discovery, and +soon after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was reveling +in the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of welcoming +him on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,' +Scott says, 'I had little expected that the first feast in our +home quarters would be taken with strange faces gathered round +our festive table, but so it was, and I can well remember the +look of astonishment that dawned on those faces when we gradually +displayed our power of absorbing food.' + +But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease, +for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition +was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although +he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused +a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from the +violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the +journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs +of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that +on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained +quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is +a very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern +journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this +collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the +determination which must have upheld him during the last marches. + +Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no +means fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were +very uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was +attacked by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental +weariness. 'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse +myself from this slothful humour, and it was many weeks before +I had returned to a normally vigorous condition. It was probably +this exceptionally relaxed state of health that made me so slow +to realize that the ice conditions were very different from what +they had been in the previous season.... The prospect of the +ice about us remaining fast throughout the season never once +entered my head.' His diary, however, for the month shows how he +gradually awakened to the true state of affairs, and on February +13 he decided to begin the transport of stores from the Morning +to the Discovery, so that the former ship 'should run no risk +of being detained.' And on the 18th when he paid his first visit +to the Morning and found the journey 'an awful grind,' he had +begun to wonder whether the floe was ever going to break up. + +A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The Morning +must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that +we shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up +may come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had +decided that if they had to remain the ship's company should +be reduced, and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told +them that he wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing. +On the following day a list was sent round for the names of those +who wanted to go, and the result was curiously satisfactory--for +Scott had determined that eight men should go, and not only were +there eight names on the list, but they were also precisely those +which Scott would have put there had he made the selection. +Shackleton also had to be told that he must go, as in his state +of health Scott did not think that any further hardships ought +to be risked; but in his place Scott requisitioned Mulock who +by an extraordinary chance is just the very man we wanted. We +have now an immense amount of details for charts... and Mulock +is excellent at this work and as keen as possible. It is rather +amusing, as he is the only person who is obviously longing for +the ice to stop in, though of course he doesn't say so. The other +sporting characters are still giving ten to one that it will go +out, but I am bound to confess that I am not sanguine.' + +The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on +February 16, and before the end of the month all hope of the +Discovery being able to leave with the Morning had been abandoned. +On March 2 nearly the whole of the Discovery's company were +entertained on board the Morning, and on the following day the +relief ship slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few +minutes she was turning to the north, with every rope and spar +outlined against the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was +raised as she gathered way, and long after she had passed out +of earshot the little band stood gazing at her receding hull, +and wondering when they too would be able to take the northern +track. + +In the Morning went a letter from Scott which shows that although +in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain for +another winter, both he and his companions were not by any means +dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen on +getting a look round C. North before making for home. However +we all take it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and +contented on board, and shall have lots to do in winter, spring +and summer. We will have a jolly good try to free the ship next +year, though I fear manual labor doesn't go far with such terribly +heavy ice as we have here; but this year we were of course +unprepared, and when we realized the situation it was too late +to begin anything like extensive operations. I can rely on every +single man that remains in the ship and I gave them all the option +of leaving... the ship's company is now practically naval-officers +and men--it is rather queer when one looks back to the original +gift of two officers.' + +Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and +fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry; +at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly +before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away +at the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.' + +But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers +not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those +who were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and +Bernacchi are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise, +and for the manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition +the greatest admiration is expressed. But in some way or other +Scott discovered good points in all the officers he mentioned, +and if they were not satisfactory in every way his object seemed +to be rather to excuse than to blame them. He was, however, +unaffectedly glad to see the last of the cook, for the latter +had shown himself far more capable at talking than at cooking, +and had related so many of his wonderful adventures that one +of the sailors reckoned that the sum total of these thrilling +experiences must have extended over a period of five hundred +and ninety years--which, as the sailor said, was a fair age even +for a cook. + +By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled +to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given +to prepare the ship for it. Compared with the previous year the +weather had been a great deal worse, for there had been more +wind and much lower temperatures, and under such conditions it +was hopeless to go on expecting the ice to break up. But it was +not to be wondered at that they found themselves wondering what +their imprisonment meant. Was it the present summer or the last +that was the exception? For them this was the gravest question, +since on the answer to it their chance of getting away next year, +or at all, depended. + +While, however, the situation as regards the future was not +altogether without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the +best of the present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was +determined to keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout +the winter, and consequently a great number of seals and skuas +had to be killed. At first the skua had been regarded as unfit +for human food, but Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in +a noose and promptly put it into the pot. And the result was so +satisfactory that the skua at once began to figure prominently on +the menu. They had, however, to deplore the absence of penguins +from their winter diet, because none had been seen near the ship +for a long time. + +On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon +this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would +be agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but +otherwise we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work; +we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in +lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of +light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended +with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball +furiously driven by Royds.' + +Of the months that followed little need be said, except that +Scott's anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter +passed by without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found +them even more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to +work away with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who +had been trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities +for the work, was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking +all the observations, and later on in constructing temporary +charts; while Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent +many a day at his distant sounding holes. + +Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was +carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while +many new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in +serviceable work that when the second long Polar night ended, +Scott was able to write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board +the Discovery who would say that it has been a hardship.... All +thoughts are turned towards the work that lies before us, and +it would be difficult to be blind to the possible extent of its +usefulness. Each day has brought it more home to us how little +we know and how much there is to be learned, and we realize fully +that this second year's work may more than double the value of +our observations. Life in these regions has lost any terror it +ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may, we can +live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years to come.' + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE WESTERN JOURNEY + + Path of advance! but it leads + A long steep journey through sunk + Gorges, o'er mountains in snow. + --M. ARNOLD. + +During the second winter much time and attention had to be given +to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it +that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But +in spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season +was bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an +inferior quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were +blackened with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many +places; the cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear; +the wind clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small +bags, which were required for provisions, they were obliged to +fall back on any sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This +state of things, however, was very far from daunting their spirits, +and long before the winter was over the plan of campaign for the +next season had been drawn up. + +In making the program Scott knew that extended journeys could +only be made by properly supported parties, and it was easy to +see that his small company would not be able to make more than +two supported journeys, though it might be just possible to make +a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The next +thing to decide was in what direction these parties should go, +and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay in +the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point +of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must, +Scott determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey +to the west he decided to lead himself. + +In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope +to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had +been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many +problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary +straits that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges +without rising in level. It was therefore with the main object +of exploring one of them that the second supported party, under +the leadership of Barne and Mulock, was to set out. + +The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported +party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask +Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on +a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this +question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and +decided that the only way to get it was to go and see. + +[Illustration: Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.] + +[Illustration: Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.] + +Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of +shorter ones for specific purposes, and the most important of +these were the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery, +as it was hoped that Wilson would be able to observe these birds +from the beginning of their breeding season. + +Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding +arrangements, for although the Discovery was mainly at the mercy +of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything man +could do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as +they could hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet +around them, the whole force of the company was to set to work +at the task of extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to +start in time to assure their return to the ship by the middle +of December. + +On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton, +Dailey, Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find +a new road to the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a depôt +ready for a greater effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier +descends gradually to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor, +but Armitage had reported most adversely on this inlet as a route +for sledges, and in conducting his own party had led it across +the high foot-hills. As yet Scott had not been to this region, +but in the nature of things he could not help thinking that some +practical route must exist up the New Harbor inlet, and that if +it could be found the journey to the west would be much easier. +And the result of this little journey was really important, for +whereas Armitage, at the foot of the Ferrar Glacier, had seen +the disturbance on the south side, and had concluded that it +must extend right across, Scott's party fortunately pushed over +this disturbance and found much easier conditions beyond it. + +The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further +observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where +glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be +found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will +be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course, +is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in +the north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall +on the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part +of the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice +disturbance is caused. + +Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a depôt at a +spot which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back +again at the ship in less than a fortnight. + +'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied; +we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done +a record march, and we had endured record temperatures--at least, +we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to tell +these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached the +ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first question +was, "What temperatures have you had?" We replied by complacently +quoting our array of minus fifties, but he quickly cut us short by +remarking that we were not in it.' + +In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap +throughout the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they +had been laying a depôt, had the coldest time, and after their +thermometer had fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke +at -67.7°. Royds and his party also had to endure -62°, but in +other respects they were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier +they found that the Emperor penguins had already hatched out +their young, and Wilson was delighted to get the opportunity of +studying the chicks at such a tender age. Commenting upon this +and another journey to Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor +penguin stands nearly four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty +to ninety pounds.... I think the chickens hate their parents, +and when one watches the proceedings in a rookery it strikes +one as not surprising. In the first place there is about one +chick to ten or twelve adults, and each adult has an overpowering +desire to "sit" on something. Both males and females want to +nurse, and the result is that when a chicken finds himself alone +there is a rush on the part of a dozen unemployed to seize him. +Naturally he runs away, and dodges here and there till a six-stone +Emperor falls on him, and then begins a regular football scrimmage, +in which each tries to hustle the other off, and the end is too +often disastrous to the chick.... I think it is not an exaggeration +to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less than half are +killed by kindness.' + +From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens +back to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep +them warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded +in his attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding, +and Wilson says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the +age when they put on their feathers, I fear that the journey +home through the tropics would have proved too much for them, +as we had no means of making a cool place for them on the ship.' + +September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on +that day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the +sun would be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the +most careful preparations, and everyone was placed under his +orders during the day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera +were trained in the right direction, magnetic instruments were +set to run at quick speed, and observers were told off to watch +everything on which the absence of sun could possibly have the +smallest effect. Everything, in short, was ready except the sun +itself which obstinately refused to come out. 'There may,' Scott +says, 'have been an eclipse of the sun on September 21, 1903, as +the almanac said, but we should none of us have liked to swear +to the fact.' + +The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the +long journeys, and on October 12 Scott left the ship with a party +of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First came his own party, +which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly and Handsley; +secondly there was a small party for the geologist, Ferrar, who +was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there were +the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley. + +Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to +be the hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that +experience would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it +would take a good deal to stop the determined men whom he had +chosen. At the start their loads were a little over 200 lbs. +per man, but most of the party were by this time in thoroughly +good condition, and by hard marching they covered the forty-five +miles to New Harbor and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th. + +This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for +here on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh +seal-meat, and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter +was carried and left at the point for each party. + +At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until +the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably +beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then +Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split +under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious +blow; for although the wood runners were capable of running on +snow without protection, on hard, sharp ice, especially if the +sledge was heavily laden, they would be knocked to pieces in +a very short time. It was, therefore, absolutely necessary to +protect the runners on this journey, but unfortunately the German +silver protection had already stood a season's work, and had worn +thin without giving any outward sign. + +From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles +of hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately +arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage. + +By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over +6,000 feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous +state that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned +up for inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained +sound, and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and +only one to take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as +they could. Had two sledges been available the advance party +might have struggled on, but with one they could do nothing; so +they left the sound sledge with everything else except the +half-week's provisions necessary to take them back, and on the +following days they 'came as near flying as is possible with a +sledge party.' On the morning of the 19th they had eighty-seven +miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on the 21st they had reached +the ship. + +During this march Scott had determined to test his own party +to the utmost, but seeing no necessity for the supports to be +dragged into this effort he told them to take their own time. +The supporting party, however, did not mean to be left behind +if they could help it, and later on the night of the 21st they +also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of the last hours +some of the members of the supporting party, though determined +not to give in, had been comically astounded by the pace which +was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott, kept on +repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my legs +are as long as his. + +Five days after their flying return they were off again, and +although the material for repairing sledges was very scanty, +one sound 11-foot sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for +Ferrar's glacier work. Trouble, however, almost at once began +with the runners, and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and +caused a long delay. But in spite of being held up by wind for +two days, they reached their depôt on November 1, and thought +at first that everything was safe. On examination, however, they +discovered that a violent gale had forced open the lid of the +instrument box, and that several things were missing, among which +Scott found to his dismay was the 'Hints to Travelers.' + +'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November +1, 'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow +I felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second +time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others, +and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to +take the risks of pushing on.' + +In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be--as indeed he +was--out of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a case +as this the sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position +as a ship or a boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of +his whereabouts by observation of the sun or stars, and with the +help of these observations he finds his latitude and longitude, +but to do this a certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to +Travelers' supplies these necessary data, and it was on this book +that Scott had been relying to help him to work out his sights +and fix accurately the position of his party. Unless he went back +to the ship to make good his loss, he was obliged to take the +risk of marching into the unknown without knowing exactly where +he was or how he was to get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of +our "Hints to Travelers" did not lead us into serious trouble it +caused me many a bad half-hour.' + +Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about +it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant +attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach +on the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000 +feet. So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but +November 4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described +afterwards as 'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In +the morning of the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold, +increasing wind, but later on the sun disappeared and the weather +became very threatening. Still, however, they battled on and +were half-way up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when +the air became thick with driving snow and the full force of the +gale burst upon them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded +in reaching the top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch +of snow on which to camp, but nothing could be found except bare, +blue ice. By this time the position was becoming serious, all of +them were frost-bitten in the face, and although the runners of +the sledges were split again so badly that they could barely pull +them over the surface, they did not dare to leave the sledges in +the thick drift. + +At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but +the snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was +almost as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was +this or nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party, +and dug for all he was worth without making the least impression. +At this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him, +and being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few +small blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and +again it and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour +passed before the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote, +'but experience saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty +confident that we could not have stood another hour in the open.' + +Little, however, did they expect when shelter was gained that +a week would pass before they could resume their march. From +November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile not a +vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped +continuously in a thick fog of driving snow. + +In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the Beagle,' +and first one and then another would read this aloud, until frozen +fingers prevented the pages from being turned over. Only one +piece of work were they able to perform, and this on the first +day when, thinking the storm would soon blow over, they hauled +the sledges beneath one of the tents and stripped the German +silver ready for the onward march. + +By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them, +and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the +health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might +be he would try to start on the following morning. + +This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes +both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the +heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling +in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this +unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of +bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is +slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning, +but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be +done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.' + +Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the storm, and +though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was possible at +last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's party +separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall and +eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident. On +starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at once +went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when they +began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting +to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were +in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened; +our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.' + +But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the +night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With +five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many +miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were, +as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different +party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp' +on the morning of the 11th. + +But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started +the journey to the west before troubles again began to gather +round them. The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their +sleeping-bags and night-jackets with ice, and with falling +temperatures this ice had so little chance to evaporate that +camping arrangements were acutely uncomfortable; and as each +night the thermometer fell a little lower, the chance of relief +from this state of things could scarcely be said to exist. The +wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it was not very strong, +when combined with the low temperature and rarefied air its effect +was blighting. + +'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to +conceive a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at +this time, when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs +upon the last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands. +Yet before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word! +Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook +ever so comfortless?' + +So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite +of every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the +17th the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans +leading with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed +with the other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge +had great difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself +felt thoroughly strong and well, some of his companions were +beginning to fail. As was natural with such men not one of them +would own that he was exhausted, and in consequence it was only +by paying the keenest attention that he could detect those who +from sheer incapacity were relaxing their strain on the traces. +And his position was not pleasant even when he knew, for to tell +any of these brave people that they must turn back was a most +unenviable task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched +on, though Scott was sure that better progress would have been +made had the party been divided. + +Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley +more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean +to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he +begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's +opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would +make him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his +diary: 'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children! +The boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has +been pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes +through the traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has +never uttered a word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is +on him he straightens up and pretends he is just as fit as ever. +What is one to do with such people?' + +What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before, +but on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley +that they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise +their disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had +to be.' + +From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision, +three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and +his companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back +upon this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a +high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the +successful work that was done. + +'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be +a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered.... +Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at +the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task +we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked +out on board the ship.' + +Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40° or below, while +during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25°, and +with this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact the +wind was the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces. So +cracked were their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the +first half-hour of the morning march, before they were warmed +up to the work, was dreadful, as then all their sore places got +frost-bitten. In short the last week of their outward march was +a searching test of endurance, but they had resolved to march +on until November 30, and in spite of the miserable conditions +there was no turning back before the month had ended. + +Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30 +had come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march, +thank heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week +but the determination to carry out our original intention of +going on to the end of the month, and so here we have pitched +our last camp.' + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE RETURN FROM THE WEST + + Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude + Bound its broad zone of stillness. + --SHELLEY. + +'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march +out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long +way to the west from my rough noon observation of the compass +variation.' But not for anything in the world did he want again +to see the interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after +this great march he says: 'For me the long month which we spent +on the Victoria Land summit remains as some vivid but evil dream. +I have a memory of continuous strain on mind and body, lightened +only by the unfailing courage and cheerfulness of my companions.' + +From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to +penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold, +and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards +the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the +time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their +powers of marching could they hope to retreat in safety from their +position, and December opened with such overcast weather that +valuable time had to be spent in the tent. During the next few days, +however, good marches were made, until on December 9 everything +changed abruptly for the worse. + +On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably +bad, that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge +along at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in +view of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should +be increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of +oil, and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of +days their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold +lunch and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently +doesn't much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the +form of a hoosh and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.' + +Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was +as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty +of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single +point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon +them, and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger +there was no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that +they were becoming 'gaunt shadows.' + +During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more +or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack. +His attitude to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance, +as though, while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less +responsible for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion +when told that it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone, +'My poor old nose again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time +it had been brought round a storm was blowing, and though they +continued to march, the drift was so thick that at any moment +they might have walked over the edge of a precipice--a fitting +prelude to what, by general consent, was admitted to be the most +adventurous day in their lives. + +Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were +at first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was +blowing and high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In +this predicament Scott realized that it was both rash to go +forward, as the air was becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally +rash to stop, for if they had to spend another long spell in a +blizzard camp, starvation would soon be staring them in the face. +So he asked Evans and Lashly if they were ready to take the risk +of going on, and promptly discovered that they were. Then they +marched straight for the ice disturbance, and as the surface +became smoother and the slope steeper their sledge began to +overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and Lashly behind +to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front to guide +its course, and what happened afterwards is described most +graphically in the diary of the 15th. + +'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward +on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown +off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time +to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced +myself to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an +express train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and +we all three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with +an ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought +that flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if +he attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to +this effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there +came a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in +the midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide +smoothly and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes +leaving it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken +limbs again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping. + +'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled +with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came +down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard, +wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment +or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering +what had happened. + +'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and +in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken. +But we had by no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one +black bruise from knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough +to land once on his back, which is bruised and very painful.... +I, as the lightest, escaped the easiest, yet before the two men +crawled painfully to their feet their first question was to ask +if I had been hurt. + +'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now +to my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance +of our own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared +well-remembered landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken +ice-wall over which we had fallen, I now recognized at once the +most elevated ice cascade of our valley.... + +'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position +was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could +not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any +other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our depôt; it +was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark. Now +in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised... and +down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Depôt Nunatak +where peace and plenty awaited us.' + +The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the +end, but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken +open the biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions +left, except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager +contents of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would +allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge +and marched on towards the depôt. Before them lay a long plateau, +at the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second +cascade, and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more +gradual icy surface down to the depôt. + +Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite +unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness +to their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought +Scott in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his +right and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid, +and Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had +this order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing +and disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from +following and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace. +The sledge flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which +Scott and Evans had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked +by the jerk but the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,' +Scott says, 'I remember absolutely nothing until I found myself +dangling at the end of my trace with blue walls on either side +and a very horrid looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged +by our movements continued to shower down on our heads. As a +first step I took off my goggles; I then discovered that Evans +was hanging just above me. I asked him if he was all right, and +received a reassuring reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.' + +Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed +feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg +suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising +himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle +he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially +between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the +right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another +such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The +projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or +not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had +slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he +could pilot his feet to the bridge. + +'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I +realized what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet +over our heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at +once what a frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask +what he could do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed +companion; for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with +one hand, his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski. +At length he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken +sledge, and so making our support more secure.' + +But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's +active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge +began to slip. The only possible course, therefore, was for Scott +and Evans to climb out unaided, and, after a word with Evans +Scott decided to try first; though he confessed afterwards that +he never expected to reach the top. Not for a longtime had he +swarmed a rope, and to do so in thick clothing, heavy crampons, +and with frost-bitten fingers seemed to him impossible. Of the +struggle that followed he remembered little except that he got a +rest when he could plant his foot in the belt of his own harness, +and again when his feet held on the rings of the belt. 'Then +came a mighty effort, till I reached the stirrup formed by the +rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering all the strength +that remained, I reached the sledge itself and flung myself on +to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and it was perhaps +then that I realized that his position had been the worst of all.' + +But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action +for several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists, +and not until their circulation came back could he get to work. +With two on top and only one below the position, however, was +very different, and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was +landed on the surface. For a minute or two they could only stand +and look at one another. Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,' +which was the first sign of surprise he had shown. + +By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their depôt, +and passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised, +sore and tired as they were, Lashly sang merrily as he stirred +the pot, while Scott and Evans sat on the sledge, shifted their +foot-gear, spread out their clothes to dry, and talked cheerily +about the happenings of the day. + +From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except +to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that +they were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front +of them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their +second depôt and could look out towards the sea, they did not +care how far round they might have to walk if only that stubborn +sheet of ice had broken away. But it was too evident that their +homeward track might be as straight as they chose, as only in +the far distance was open water to be seen, and with sorrow they +realized that there must still be many miles of ice between it +and the Discovery. + +Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after +an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725 +miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted +the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered +l,098 miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed +heights which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the +Discovery Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley on +board, because all the rest of the company had gone to the north +to saw through the ice; and during the few days of rest that he +allowed himself before going to the sawing-camp, he was able to +read the reports of the officers who had led the other journeys, +and to see what excellent work had been done during his absence. + +Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially +to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and +Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but +throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably, +with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately +plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions +and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne +also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great +Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went +on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting +series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself +belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell +upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside the +tent while he was at work inside it. + +Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier, +but had also made a complete examination of the enormous and +interesting pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great +Barrier ice-mass with the land, and subsequently had spent much +time in studying the windless area to the south of Ross Island. +Also, with Armitage and Heald, he had made an excellent little +journey, on which Armitage obtained some very good photographs, +sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions +of the whole continent. + +In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working +strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the +second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate +themselves that the main part of their work was done. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +RELEASE + + And Thor + Set his shoulder hard against the stern + To push the ship through... + ...and the water gurgled in + And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd. + --M. ARNOLD. + +After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was +going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he +started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and +a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt +to free the Discovery were drawn up, there had been, of course, +no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations began, +and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly the +same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended to +the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There he +directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom in +Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations +in accordance with the instructions he had received. + +At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him, as in the middle +of December the open water, instead of being up to the islets, +ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under the +circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out +to the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the +middle of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge. + +Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at +first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were +all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land +of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that, +apart from the labor, they were having a most enjoyable time, +though no one imagined that the work would be useful. + +In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must +be in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much +struck,' he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully +carried on this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There +could have been no officer or man among them who did not see +from the first how utterly useless it was, and yet there has +been no faltering or complaint, simply because all have felt +that, as the sailor expresses it, "Them's the orders."' + +With twenty miles of ice between the Discovery and freedom, the +possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so although +most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans, Handsley +and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate stock of +penguins. And then Scott being unable to do any good by remaining +in the ship started off to the north with Wilson, the former +being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see what chance there +was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study the life of that +region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with no hard +marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely way, +on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water when +Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked round, +and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with +thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they +had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was +to have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating +to think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two +years. During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and +the skua gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper +they took soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran +within a few yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight. +'Then,' Scott says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with +seal kidneys; eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was +simply delicious. I have come to the conclusion that life in the +Antarctic Regions can be very pleasant.' + +Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast +on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott, +looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond, +suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle +reigned supreme, and while they were searching for boots and other +things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why, there's another,' +and without any doubt two vessels were framed in the doorway. It +had at once been taken for granted that the first ship was the +Morning, but what in the name of fortune was the meaning of the +other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine. The easiest and +quickest way to find out was to go straight on board, for the +ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles to the westward, +but if they had followed this simple plan their companions on the +Discovery would have known nothing about it, and would have been +compelled to wait for their mails. So they started southward to +find the penguin hunters, and then to send them to establish +communications with the ship. For a long time no sight of the +men could be seen, but after traveling about six miles Scott and +Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of life about it; +indeed they were within a hundred yards before in answer to their +shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still munching the +remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought they had +not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained, they +didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the +matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't +you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would +be all right." In other words, they as good as said that life +was so extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible +object in worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief +expedition.' When, however, they had got their orders they were +off at once, and Scott and Wilson went back to the ships and soon +found out from Colbeck why the Terra Nova had accompanied the +Morning, and how strangely the aspect of affairs had altered. +Writing in his diary on that night Scott says, 'I can only record +that in spite of the good home news, and in spite of the pleasure +of seeing old friends again, I was happier last night than I am +to-night.' + +Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of +one were these. Scott's report taken by the Morning had left the +strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to the +south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to +meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time +enough to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities +of the case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the +Societies to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually +the latter agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief +expedition, provided that the Morning, as she stood, was delivered +over to them. The Government naturally placed the management of +affairs in the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the +responsibility it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order +that there should be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled. + +The Terra Nova, one of the finest of the whaling ships, was bought, +and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry MacKay, was +engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November 1903 she +layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in December she was joined +by the Morning, Captain Colbeck being directed to take charge +of this joint venture until both ships could come under Scott's +command. + +Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships +arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was +not, however, the arrival of the Terra Nova, whose captain from +the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another +matter that made Scott so sad--and naturally sad--at this time. + +In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation +had formed the opinion that the Discovery was stuck fast in the +ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion or +not is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty +to see that the expense of another relief expedition should be +avoided. Consequently there was no other course open to them +except to tell Scott to abandon the Discovery, if she could not +be freed in time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But +necessary as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions +in a very cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a +sailor would go through much rather than abandon his ship, but +the ties which bound Scott and his company to the Discovery were +very far beyond the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth of +sentiment not in the least surprising when their associations +with her are remembered. + +In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving +her had never entered their heads. Some time she would be free +again, and even if they had to spend a third winter in her they +had determined to go through with it, and make themselves as +comfortable as possible. + +It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were +rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that +unless a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks, +they must bid a long farewell to their beloved ship and return +to their homes as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief +ships there fell the first and last cloud of gloom which was +ever allowed on board the Discovery. And as day followed day with +no improvement in the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until +anyone might easily have imagined that an Antarctic expedition +was a most dismal affair. + +On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and +this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I +told them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence. +I have not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.' + +For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten +miles to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged +to notify any changes in the ice, but day after day the only +signal was 'No change in the ice conditions.' + +On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something +that did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and +instruments should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever +the future held in store he saw no reason why this should not +be done, and to have anything at all to do during this trying +time was a blessing; though he had by no means given up hope +that the Discovery would be freed. After a long spell at Cape +Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship on the night of the 21st +with news that was all the more welcome at such an anxious time. +Strolling over the beach one day to inspect what he thought was +a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was quite different +from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to the camp for +his gun. Two of the Morning officers were in camp with him, and +all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange new beast. +Their great fear was that they might only succeed in wounding +it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite of the +temperature of the water they waded round it before they attacked. +These tactics were successful, but their quarry when dispatched +was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to examine +where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came over +in the Morning, and with the aid of boats and ropes the carcass +was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion that +the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie Island, +but never before seen within the Antarctic circle. + +No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces +broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships +were four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight +before. But, if the conditions were to be as they had been two +years before, thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in +fifteen days, a far more rapid rate than it had been going during +the previous fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of +real promise occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway +very slightly under the action of a long swell, its edge against +the land rising and falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all +very restless, constantly dashing up the hill to the lookout +station or wandering from place to place to observe the effects +of the swell. But it is long since we enjoyed such a cheerful +experience as we get on watching the loose pieces of ice jostling +one another at Hut Point.' + +Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February +arrived and brought the best of news with it. During the day +nothing unusual happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner +that the excitement began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and +a voice sang out down the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!' + +'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut +Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking +up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not +thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than +a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and +carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was +hurrying away to the north-west. + +'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight; the sun was low +behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front was intensely +white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking leads +looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a +sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of +this peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that +great ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.' + +But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the +relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the +first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company +of spectators had clustered; although the little Morning, with +her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to hold +her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten +those on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships +crashed into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild +excitement they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly +heard. + +Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener +and keener. On came the Terra Nova, but in spite of all her mighty +efforts the persistent little Morning, dodging right and left and +seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at her side, and still +seemed to have a chance of winning the race. + +Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments, +stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene. + +'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then +a burst of frenzied cheering broke out. It seemed to us almost +too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all the thick ice had +vanished, and there remained only the thin area of decayed floe +which has lately made the approach to the ships so dangerous; +a few minutes later the Terra Nova forged ahead and came crashing +into the open, to be followed almost immediately by her stout +little companion, and soon both ships were firmly anchored to +all that remains of the Discovery's prison, the wedge that still +holds in our small bay.... + +'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost +side by side; a rope from the Terra Nova is actually secured to +the Discovery. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly not +we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.' + +The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was +cracked in many places, and would doubtless have departed of +its own accord in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to +get away, decided to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently +at 1 A.M. on February 16 there was an explosion which shook the +whole bay, and rudely disturbed not only the ice but also the +slumbers of those who were not members of the explosion party. + +A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and +when all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a +thunderous report which shook the ship throughout, and then all +was calm again. For a brief moment one might have imagined that +nothing had happened, but then one saw that each crack was slowly +widening; presently there came the gurgle of water as it was +sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute there +was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the keel +was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the great +mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our good +ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors +with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was +that the Discovery came to her own again--the right to ride the +high seas.' + +On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or +happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation +they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after +such a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard +work lay in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder +of their program. If the Discovery was free before the navigable +season closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time +in exploring the region to the westward of Cape North, but now +after two years' imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme. +Directly the relief ships had arrived he had asked them for as +great a quantity as possible, but although the replies had at +first been satisfactory, a long month's fight with wind and ice +had sadly reduced the amount they could afford to give. The only +thing to do was to get without any delay what could be spared, and +on the afternoon of the 16th the Terra Nova came alongside to hand +over her supply. 'The afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully +calm and bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on +the termination of our long and successful struggle with the +ice.... We little guessed what lay before us.' + +On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved +inscription to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit +of Hut Point, and on the following day the small company landed +together and stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott +read some short prayers. + +The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled +back to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to +their shipmate, but weather of this kind had been too common +to attract attention. On that night Captain MacKay was dining +in the Discovery for the first time, and a great effort had been +made to show him how good an Antarctic feast could be. In the +middle of dinner, however, word came down to Scott that the wind +had sprung up, and although he expected nothing serious he went +up to see what was happening. Then he saw they were in for a +stiff blow, and reluctantly had to inform his guests of the fact. +One glance at the sky satisfied MacKay, who was over the rail +like a shot, and in a few minutes the Terra Nova was steaming +for the open and lost in the drift. ' + +[Illustration: The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.] + +Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did +not altogether like the look of things and determined to get up +steam as soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the +engine-room after such a long period of disuse. But early in the +morning of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and +the Discovery began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming +manner. + +'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in +spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I +watched anxiously to see if the ship dragged. + +'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in +half an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot +astern and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first, +the steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant +situation, as the distance grew shorter every minute, until +the spray of the breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was +soon followed by a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice. +We rebounded and struck again, and our head was just beginning +to falloff and the ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what +would have happened then) when steam was announced.' + +Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone +would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once +around Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open +sea before them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter +of a mile out, though off the end there was a shallow patch which +had to be cleared before safety could be reached. So finding +that no headway was being made he began to edge out towards the +Point, and all seemed well until, nearly opposite to the Point +itself, he saw to his alarm that a strong current was sweeping +past. + +'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm +over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the +fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant +after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with +our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead +to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to +set us faster ashore. + +'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that +followed were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each +moment the ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her +from stem to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly +that, strong as was her build, she could not long survive such +awful blows.' + +Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and +crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be +done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility +of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next +best thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather +moderated. Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could +rely on the support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton +already had made a list of weights by the removal of which the +ship could be lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned +to discuss the manner in which the anchors could be laid out he +also had his scheme cut and dried. + +The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after they +assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the Discovery. +But when they were half-way through this silent meal Mulock, the +officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said, 'The ship's +working astern, sir.' + +In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both +wind and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But +what surprised him even more was that the current, which had +been running strongly to the north, had turned and was running +with equal speed to the south. Each time that the ship lifted +on a wave she worked two or three inches astern, and though she +was still grinding heavily she no longer struck the bottom with +such terrific force. Scarcely, however, had these facts been +observed when Skelton rushed up to say that the inlets were free +again. + +'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together +and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs +were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve, +and the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or +two the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady +grating under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and +ceased as the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water.... +Rarely, if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable +plight as ours to find herself free and safe within the space +of an hour.... To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws +fourteen feet cannot be a pleasant position--nor can there be +a doubt that the shocks which the Discovery sustained would have +very seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.' + +None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short +time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the +18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the +southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided +to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and +complete the coaling operations. + +On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent, +no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as +a sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists, +lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working +with all their might on the coaling whips. + +The Morning handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this was +all the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the +narrowest margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward +without joining in any attempt at further exploration. 'His +practical common sense told him he could be of little use to +us, and with his usual loyalty he never hesitated to act for +the best, at whatever sacrifice to his own hopes and wishes.' + +Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged +that the three ships should journey up the coast together and +then separate, the Morning proceeding to the north, while the +Discovery and the Terra Nova turned west. The companies of both +Relief ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the +Discovery when she entered her first civilized port; so Scott +fixed upon Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot at which +they might meet before the final return to New Zealand. + +February 20 saw the Discovery speeding along a stretch of coast +that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously +made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged +to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now +gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than +this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking +innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally +indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery +to his sketch-book. + +Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the +engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end; +and on the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On +inspection Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely +shattered, and was held together by little more than its weight; +as the tiller was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but +with a lag of many degrees, so that the connection between the two +was evidently insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that +they could not hope to weather a gale without losing all control +over the ship, and that no time was to be lost in shipping their +spare rudder in place of the damaged one. So Scott determined to +seek shelter in Robertson Bay, and by night the damaged rudder +had been hoisted on deck and the spare one prepared for lowering +into its place. Since the Discovery had left winter quarters an +almost incredible amount of work had been done to bring her into +sea trim. Difficulty after difficulty had arisen, but the energy +of the company had never slackened, and by February 25 Scott was +able to say that everything was once more in order, though he was +a little doubtful about the steering power of their spare rudder. + +At this time it was all the more important that the ship should +give no further trouble, because according to their program they +were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite +enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With +high hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the +point reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned +to the west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice, +however, was destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their +advance, and on the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east +and try to find a way around this formidable barrier. 'It is +grievously disappointing to find the pack so far to the east; +Ross carried the open water almost to Cape North.' And again +on March 1, Scott sounds a note of lamentation: 'There can be +no doubt that since leaving Victoria Land we have been skirting +a continuous mass of pack, which must cover the whole sea south +of the Balleny Islands. That it should have lain so far to the +eastward this year is very annoying; however, if we can push on +upon this course we ought to strike the islands.' + +Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and +by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others +that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them +considerably, and not until some time later was the problem +solved. In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this +region, and three years later Ross saw land which he imagined +was to the southward of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it +to be divided into three distinct masses named it the Russell +Islands. Consequently Scott arrived expecting to see two groups +of islands, and was naturally perplexed when only one group was +to be seen. After, however, studying the accounts of these islands +and comparing them with what he could actually see, he recognized +that they had just passed Balleny's Sturge Island, which Balleny +had seen from the north, and so could have had no idea of its +length in a north-and-south line. Later Ross must have seen this +same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite possible, from a great +distance must have thought that it was divided into three, and +hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate group. +Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings to +fix accurately the position of each island. + +Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny +Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes +claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige +of it could they see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that +Wilkes Land was once and for all definitely disposed of. With +this negative, but nevertheless important, result, the exploring +work ended, and although a lack of coal had prevented their +cherished plan of rounding Cape North, they had at least the +satisfaction of clearing up some geographical misconceptions +in a more northerly latitude. + +From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of +greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on +board the Discovery, for she was in very light trim and tossed +about the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the +greatest relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross +Harbor on the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay. + +Neither the Terra Nova nor the Morning had yet arrived, and the +days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart as possible +before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus, in a few +days, the Discovery looked as though she had spent her adventurous +years in some peaceful harbor. + +On March 19 the Terra Nova hove in sight, and was followed on +the next day by the Morning. Both ships had experienced the most +terrible weather, and everyone on board the little Morning declared +that she had only been saved from disaster by the consummate +seamanship of Captain Colbeck. + +A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most +favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1 off the Heads of +Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely berthed alongside +the jetty, from which they had sailed with such hearty wishes +more than two years before. + +'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered +on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can +never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express +our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that +could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full +months before we set out on our last long voyage.' + +June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later +they anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they +replenished their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic +observations in connection with their Southern Survey. And from +the Falkland Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another +testimony of the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The +praise,' he wrote, 'for whatever success we have had is really +due to the ship's company as a whole rather than to individuals. +That is not very clear, perhaps; what I mean is that the combination +of individual effort for the common good has achieved our results, +and the absence of any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout +has been "share and share alike," and its most practical form +lies, perhaps, in the fact that throughout our three years there +has been no distinction between the food served to officers and men. + +Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no +greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so +loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head. + +'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic, +for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition +of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.' + +Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted, +and for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to +welcome and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy +of their return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought +that the end had come to those ties, which had held together the +small band of the Discovery in the closest companionship and most +unswerving loyalty. + + + + +THE LAST EXPEDITION + + + +PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION' + +By SIR CLEMENTS R MARKHAM, K.C.B. + +Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer, +able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors, +and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility +to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man +living could be found who was so well fitted to command a great +Antarctic Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. +The object was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by +land. Captain Scott entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm +tempered by prudence and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a +thorough study of the history of Arctic traveling, combined with +experience of different conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott +was the initiator and founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling. His +discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings +along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the +discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the +examination of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria +Mountains--a range of great height and many hundreds of miles +in length, which had only before been seen from a distance out +at sea--and above all the discovery of the great ice cap on which +the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable Polar +journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff +worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being +recorded in twelve large quarto volumes. + +The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his +beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work. +The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of +battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that +five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labors. + +The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly +scientific, to complete and extend his former work in all branches +of science. It was his ambition that in his ship there should be +the most completely equipped expedition for scientific purposes +connected with the Polar regions, both as regards men and material, +that ever left these shores. In this he succeeded. He had on +board a fuller complement of geologists, one of them especially +trained for the study, of physiography, biologists, physicists, +and surveyors than ever before composed the staff of a Polar +expedition. Thus Captain Scott's objects were strictly scientific, +including the completion and extension of his former discoveries. +The results will be explained in the second volume of this work. +They will be found to be extensive and important. Never before, +in the Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal +observations been taken, in one locality, during five years. It +was also part of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by +a long and most arduous journey, but here again his intention +was, if possible, to achieve scientific results on the way, +especially hoping to discover fossils which would throw light +on the former history of the great range of mountains which he +had made known to science. + +The principal aim of this great man--for he rightly has his niche +among the Polar Dii Majores--was the advancement of knowledge. +From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our +time, and the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply +impressed with the beauty of his character. The chief traits +which shone forth through his life were conspicuous in the hour +of death. There are few events in history to be compared, for +grandeur and pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent +wilderness of snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his +dearest friends beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil +dropped from his dying grasp. There was no thought of himself, +only the earnest desire to give comfort and consolation to others +in their sorrow. His very last lines were written lest he who +induced him to enter upon Antarctic work should now feel regret +for what he had done. + +'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him, +and never regretted his putting me in command of the Discovery.' + + * * * * * + +The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain +Scott between 1905 and 1910: + + January to July, 1906 Admiralty (Assistant Director + of Naval Intelligence.) + Aug. 21, 1906, to Jan. 1, 1907 Victorious (Flag Captain to + Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral + in the Atlantic Fleet). + Jan. 2, 1907, to Aug. 24, 1907 Albermarle (Flag Captain to + Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral + in the Atlantic Fleet). + Aug. 25, 1907, to Jan. 24, 1908 Not actively employed afloat + between these dates. + Jan. 25, 1908, to May 29, 1908 Essex (Captain). + May 30, 1908, to March 23, 1909 Bulwark (Flag Captain to + Rear-Admiral Colville, Rear-Admiral + the Nore Division, Home Fleet). + +Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed +to H.M.S. President for British Antarctic Expedition June 1, 1910. + +On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was +married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter +Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909. + +On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for +the British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his +appeal resulted in £10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund. +Then the Government made a grant of £20,000, and grants followed +from the Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. + +Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made +to purchase the steamship Terra Nova, the largest and strongest +of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing +was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged +upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave +Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott from +leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he sailed in +the Saxon to South Africa, and there awaited the arrival of the +Terra Nova. + + +BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910 + +SHORE PARTIES + +Officers + + Name Rank, &c. + Robert Falcon Scott Captain, C.V.O., R.N. + Edward R. G. R. Evans Lieutenant, R.N. + Victor L. A. Campbell Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List) + Henry R. Bowers Lieutenant, R.I.M. + Lawrence E. G. Oates Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons. + G. Murray Levick Surgeon, R.N. + Edward L. Atkinson Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist. + +Scientific Staff + + Edward Adrian Wilson B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the + Scientific Staff, and Zoologist. + George C. Simpson D.Sc., Meteorologist. + T. Griffith Taylor B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist. + Edward W. Nelson Biologist + Frank Debenham B.A., B.Sc., Geologist. + Charles S. Wright B.A., Physicist. + Raymond E. Priestley Geologist. + Herbert G. Ponting F.R.G.S, Camera Artist. + Cecil H. Meares In Charge of Dogs. + Bernard C. Day Motor Engineer. + Apsley Cherry-Garrard B.A., Asst. Zoologist. + Tryggve Gran Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., + B.A., Ski Expert. + +Men + + W. Lashly Chief Stoker, R.N. + W. W. Archer Chief Steward, late R.N. + Thomas Clissold Cook, late R.N. + Edgar Evans Petty Officer, R.N. + Robert Forde Petty Officer, R.N. + Thomas Crean Petty Officer, R.N. + Thomas S. Williamson Petty Officer, R.N. + Patrick Keohane Petty Officer, R.N. + George P. Abbott Petty Officer, R.N. + Frank V. Browning Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N. + Harry Dickason Able Seaman, R.N. + F. J. Hooper Steward, late R.N. + Anton Omelchenko Groom. + Demetri Gerof Dog Driver. + +SHIP'S PARTY + +Officers, &c. + + Harry L. L. Pennell Lieutenant, R.N. + Henry E. de P. Rennick Lieutenant, R.N. + Wilfred M. Bruce Lieutenant, R.N.R. + Francis R. H. Drake Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired), + Secretary and Meteorologist in Ship. + Denis G. Lillie M.A., Biologist in Ship. + + James R. Dennistoun In Charge of Mules in Ship. + Alfred B. Cheetham R.N.R., Boatswain. + William Williams Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N., + 2nd Engineer. + William A. Horton Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer. + Francis E. C. Davies Leading Shipwright, R.N. + Frederick Parsons Petty Officer, R.N. + William L. Heald Late P.O., R.N. + Arthur S. Bailey Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N. + Albert Balson Leading Seaman, R.N. + Joseph Leese Able Seaman, R.N. + John Hugh Mather Petty Officer, R.N.V.R. + Robert Oliphant Able Seaman. + Thomas F. McLeod Able Seaman. + Mortimer McCarthy Able Seaman. + William Knowles Able Seaman. + Charles Williams Able Seaman. + James Skelton Able Seaman. + William McDonald Able Seaman. + James Paton Able Seaman. + Robert Brissenden Leading Stoker, R.N. + Edward A. McKenzie Leading Stoker, R.N. + William Burton Leading Stoker, R.N. + Bernard J. Stone Leading Stoker, R.N. + Angus McDonald Fireman. + Thomas McGillon Fireman. + Charles Lammas Fireman. + W. H. Neale Steward. + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THROUGH STORMY SEAS + + The ice was here, the ice was there, + The ice was all around: + It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, + Like noises in a swound. + --COLERIDGE. + +No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic +expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The +selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers +was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the +applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of +the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to +the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer +exists in the British race. + +On June 15, 1910, the Terra Nova left Cardiff upon her great +mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28, +at Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done +before she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual +the kindness received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.' + +A month of strenuous labor followed, and then, on November 26, they +said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling at Port Chalmers set +out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage of their voyage. Two +days later they encountered a stiff wind from the N. W. and a +confused sea. + +'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the +circumstances. + +'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can +devise--and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close +side by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together +and groom between--swaying, swaying continually to the plunging, +irregular motion.' + +Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four +more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very +large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4. +A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space +hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were +so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they +were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was +contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases, +which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the +poop and abreast the motor sledges. + +Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley +forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of +coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between +the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three +dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although they were +given as much protection as possible, their position was far +from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion, 'a picture +of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for these poor +creatures.' + +The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and +very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water +over the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break +loose on the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by +the loose coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and +swung against the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering +rams, no lashings could possibly have withstood them, and so the +only remedy was to set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and +re-lash the cases. During this difficult and dangerous task seas +continually broke over the men, and at such times they had to +cling for dear life to some fixture to prevent themselves from +being washed overboard. No sooner was some appearance of order +restored than another unusually heavy wave tore away the lashings, +and the work had to be done allover again. + +As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the +ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail +and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.' + +From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night, +reports came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their +legs. But worse news was to follow, for in the early morning +news came from the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and +that the water had risen over the gratings. + +From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center +of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained. +Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck +gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with +donkey engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water +might be got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes +of pumping invariably led to the same result--a general choking +of the pumps. + +The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger +of becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have +happened. The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble +and its suction could not be reached, for as the water crept +higher it got in contact with the boiler and eventually became +so hot that no one could work at the suctions. A great struggle +to conquer these misfortunes followed, but Williams had at last +to confess that he was beaten and must draw fires. + +'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black. +The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop, +a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of +the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on +the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead. +It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the +lee rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging +to the main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which +swept aft and high on the poop. On one occasion I was waist deep +when standing on the rail of the poop.' + +All that could be done for the time being was to organize the +afterguard to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on +the choked hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt +to bale out the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets +was passed up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous +work was going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never +for a moment lost their good spirits. + +In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the +pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room +bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the +coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared +the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which +were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came +from the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had +been overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the +engine-room, and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties +were able to stop their labors. + +The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they +might easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks +of the ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five +gallons of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost. +Another dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke +and he disappeared, but the next wave miraculously washed him +back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again, but +anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching +heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these +long-suffering animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest, +and Scott's earnest prayer was that there might be no more gales. +'December ought to be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always +has been, and just now conditions point to fine weather. Well, +we must be prepared for anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about +these animals of ours.' + +Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things +straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck +and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition +to fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December +6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two +days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze +and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater +than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the +effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that +they were almost constantly wet. + +During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed, +the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress +was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they +advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to +appear. Yet, after the rough weather they had been having, the +calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived before it was +expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort afforded +to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the human +element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise in +spite of the imminence of delay.' + +Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal +was going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put +out the fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all +the evidence of former voyages had been examined so that the +best meridian to go south on might be chosen, and the conclusion +arrived at was that the 178 W. was the best. They entered the +pack more or less on this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting +worse conditions than any ship had ever experienced--worse, indeed, +than Scott imagined to be possible on any meridian which they +might have chosen. But as very little was known about the movements +of the pack the difficulties of making a choice may very easily be +imagined, and, in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that +the 178 W. was the best meridian did not change. 'The situation +of the main bodies of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with +which the floes are packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing +winds. One cannot tell what winds have prevailed before one's +arrival; therefore one cannot know much about the situation or +density. Within limits the density is changing from day to day +and even from hour to hour; such changes depend on the wind, +but it may not necessarily be a local wind, so that at times +they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes pressing closely +against one another at a given time, and an hour or two afterwards +a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each. When the floes +are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes impossible +to force a way through, but when there is release of pressure +the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag path.' + +During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at +10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and +got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything +as good as this life. The novelty, interest, color, animal life, +and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at +present,' one of the company wrote on that same day--an abundant +proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with +them. + +With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to +progress--on the Monday--with much bumping and occasional stoppages, +but on the following day they were again firmly and tightly wedged +in the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty of the experience +prevented any sense of impatience, though to Scott the strain of +waiting and wondering what he ought to do as regards the question +of coal was bound to be heavy. + +This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours +of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of +the fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations +were also constantly taken, while Wilson painted some delightful +pictures and Ponting took a number of beautiful photographs of +the pack and bergs. But as day followed day and hopes of progress +were not realized, Scott, anxious to be free, decided on Monday, +December 19, to push west. 'Anything to get out of these terribly +heavy floes. Great patience is the only panacea for our ill case. +It is bad luck.' + +Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be +reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around +them. And what to do under the circumstances called for most +difficult decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead +loss of two tons of coal when the boilers were again heated. +But these two tons only covered a day under banked fires, so +that for anything longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving +to put out the fires. Thus at each stoppage Scott was called +upon to decide how long it was likely to last. + +Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but +although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry +evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the +table and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute +two songs to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising +circumstance,' Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should +be so keen on singing.' + +Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect +of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being +that everyone was prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite +regardless of the results of his labors. But on Wednesday, December +28, the ponies, despite the unremitting care and attention that +Oates gave to them, were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These +animals are now the great consideration, balanced as they are +against the coal expenditure.' + +By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many +of the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared +to be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott +decided to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once +more in the open sea. + +From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during +this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one +tons [Footnote: When the Terra Nova left Lyttelton she had 460 +tons of coal on board.] of coal had been used, an average of six +miles to the ton, and although these were not pleasant figures +to contemplate, Scott considered that under the exceptional +conditions they might easily have been worse. For the ship herself +he had nothing but praise to give. 'No other ship, not even the +Discovery, would have come through so well.... As a result I have +grown strangely attached to the Terra Nova. As she bumped the +floes with mighty shocks, crushing and grinding her way through +some, twisting and turning to avoid others, she seemed like a +living thing fighting a great fight. If only she had more economical +engines she would be suitable in all respects.' + +Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many +of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their +own specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those +who had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find +any kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to +help everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has +been heard on board. The inner life of our small community is +very pleasant to think upon, and very wonderful considering the +extremely small space in which we are confined. The attitude +of the men is equally worthy of admiration. In the forecastle +as in the wardroom there is a rush to be first when work is to +be done, and the same desire to sacrifice selfish consideration +to the success of the expedition. It is very good to be able to +write in such high praise of one's companions, and I feel that +the possession of such support ought to ensure success. Fortune +would be in a hard mood indeed if it allowed such a combination +of knowledge, experience, ability, and enthusiasm to achieve +nothing.' + +Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their +favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern +blizzard met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind +and sea increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at +6 A.M. ice was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe +course would have been to go about and stand to the east, but +on this occasion Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble +if he could get the ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed +a stream of ice over which the sea was breaking heavily, and +the danger of being among loose floes in such a sea was acutely +realized. But presently they came to a more compact body of floes, +and running behind this they were agreeably surprised to find +themselves in comparatively smooth water. There they lay to in +a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous position had achieved +one that was safe as long as their temporary shelter lasted. + +As the day passed their protection, though still saving them +from the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean +to depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At +10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but +splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in +sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter +from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark +as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it. +I believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty +miles farther--such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.' + +The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress +was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached +the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage +they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station +at this Cape, and the prospect had seemed to become increasingly +fascinating the more they talked of it. + +But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the +whale boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor, +Priestley, and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore, +they discovered that the swell made it impossible for them to +land. + +'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied +us.' + +On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting +and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of +development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant, +but fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of +this incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out +of the question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me, +for there, about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the +old bay ice about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin +chick was standing disconsolately stranded, and close by stood +one faithful old Emperor parent asleep. This young Emperor was +still in the down, a most interesting fact in the bird's life +history at which we had rightly guessed, but which no one had +actually observed before.... This bird would have been a treasure +to me, but we could not risk life for it, so it had to remain +where it was.' + +Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their +station at Cape Crozier, and this was all the harder to bear +because every detail of the shore promised well for a wintering +party. There were comfortable quarters for the hut, ice for water +snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing, proximity to the +Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins, good ground +for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the Southern Road +with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It is a thousand +pities to have to abandon such a spot.' + +The Discovery's post-office was still standing as erect as when it +had been planted, and comparisons between what was before their +eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed to +have occurred anywhere--a result that in the case of the Barrier +caused very great surprise. + +In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey, +the program of which was: + + Bruce continually checking speed with hand log. + + Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam. + Nelson noting results. + + Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter. + Cherry-Garrard noting results. + + Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam. + Atkinson noting results. + + Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder. + Wright noting results. + + Rennick sounding with Thomson machine. + Drake noting results. + +We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to +the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed +since Discovery days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in +the same place.' + +Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came +in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was +good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this +side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such +a familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place +for winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the +Barrier, and a cape, which in the, Discovery days had been called +'the Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old Discovery +quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue, +and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in +the season, and that when they froze over again the ice would +soon become firm.' + +There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw, +as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering +station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest +and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most +favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which +was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication +being established at an early date with Cape Armitage. [Footnote: +The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further, on one +of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the Discovery hut.] + +Not a moment was wasted, and while Scott was on shore Campbell +took the first steps towards landing the stores. + +Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the +landing began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors +were soon hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and +the tons of sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and +all the accessories appeared to be in perfect condition. Then +came the turn of the ponies, and although it was difficult to +make some of them enter the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion +and got most of them in by persuasion, while the ones which refused +to be persuaded were simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all +are thin and some few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised +at the evident vitality which they still possessed--some were even +skittish. I cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were +safely picketed on the floe.' + +Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning, +and ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The +chief trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of +the penguins, the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the +proceedings and a total disregard for their own safety, with the +result that a number of them were killed in spite of innumerable +efforts to teach the penguins to keep out of reach, they only +squawked and ducked as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with +you, you silly ass? Let us alone.' These incidents naturally +demoralized the dogs and annoyed Meares, who while trying to stop +one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs and was carried along +until they reached the penguins of their desire. + +The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing +one and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success, +but they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the +site for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped +on shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days. +Nearly all the timber, &c., for the hut and a supply of food +for both ponies and dogs had also been landed. + +Despite this most strenuous day's labor, all hands were up again +at 5 A.M. on Thursday. + +'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works +and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the +scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary +scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting +the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived +rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly +appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard +weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious +danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern +rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to +this. I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales +with this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting, +who was standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and +ran towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts, +which had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole +floe under him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. +One could hear the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the +ice and struck it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under +the ice, setting it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his +feet and was able to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance +also, the splits had been made around and between the dogs, so +that neither of them fell into the water. Then it was clear that +the whales shared our astonishment, for one after another their +huge hideous heads shot vertically into the air through the cracks +which they had made... There cannot be a doubt that they looked +up to see what had happened to Ponting and the dogs.... + +'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually +skirt the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap +up anyone who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but +the facts that they could display such deliberate cunning, that +they were able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2 +feet), and that they could act in unison, were a revelation to +us. It is clear that they are endowed with singular intelligence, +and in future we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.' + +On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they +might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble +had been taken to obtain the most suitable material for Polar +work, and the three motor sledge tractors were the outcome of +experiments made at Lantaret in France and at Lillehammer and +Fefor in Norway, with sledges built by the Wolseley Motor Company +from suggestions offered principally by B. T. Hamilton, R. W. +Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted objection to cruelty +in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and almost pathetic, +desire that these sledges should be successful; over and over +again he expressed his hopes and fears of them. + +With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard, +the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the +only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the +cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the +necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday +the third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott, +leaving Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started +for the shore with a single man load. + +Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that +it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the +ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the +machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through; +and while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was +seen to give, and slowly the machine went right through and +disappeared. The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the +rope, but it cut through the ice towards them with an increasing +strain, and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half +a minute later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the +two best motors was lying at the bottom of the sea. + +The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was +clear that those who were on shore were practically cut off from +the ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to +the north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near +ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to +Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way +along the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen. + +A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again +the work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In +this Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single +case he did not know nor a single article on which he could not +at once place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was +checked by him. + +On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound, +the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of +Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on +board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last +we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We +are LANDED eight days after our arrival--a very good record.' + + + + +CHAPTER II + +DEPÔT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP + + And the deed of high endeavour + Was no more to the favoured few. + But brain and heart were the measure + Of what every man might do. + --RENNELL RODD. + +While the landing was being carried out, the building party had +worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could +have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small +party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to +serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the +cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable +quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and +Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut. + +In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott +could begin to think about the depôt journey. The arrangements +of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation +he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once, +and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.' + +Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal: 'He (Scott) +wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie Evans, +and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice +of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men. +It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it +is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead +of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate.... +About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so +many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my +own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice +towards the end and a most keen competition--and a universal lack +of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete absence of any +jealous feeling in any single one of any of the comparatively +large number who at present stand a chance of being on the last +piece next summer.... I have never been thrown in with a more +unselfish lot of men--each one doing his utmost fair and square +in the most cheery manner possible.' + +Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10 +A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott +read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but +unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not +fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the +two allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior +animals. At this time the party to be led by Campbell was known +as the Eastern Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing +on King Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north +part of Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern +Party. Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is +evident, but in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it +like the gentleman he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.' + +On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine +dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started +to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old Discovery hut, +a most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin +they found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the +hut for shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state. + +'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such +a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old +comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I went +to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression of +civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this +should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and +finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate +predecessors oppressed me horribly.' + +After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found +much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely +cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost +bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and +on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare tableland. The +paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible on the cross +put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if it had just +been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down it could +with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in the +afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans, +and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut. + +'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is +really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest +that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and +roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation +on both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings +weighs six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore +and the result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst +the total weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the +time and attention given to its planning. + +'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain +spare clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a +solid stable to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present +these animals are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow +close by, above them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the +dogs extend in other long lines. Behind them again is a most +convenient slab of hard ice in which we have dug two caverns. +The first is a larder now fully stocked with seals, penguins, +mutton, and beef. The other is devoted to science in the shape +of differential magnetic instruments which will keep a constant +photographic record of magnetic changes. Outside these caverns +is another little hut for absolute magnetic observations, and +above them on a small hill, the dominant miniature peak of the +immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological instruments +and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack. + +'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill +on a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision +cases ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping +the ice-foot below, you will have some idea of our immediate +vicinity. As for our wider surroundings it would be difficult +to describe their beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape +Evans is one of the many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands +closest under the mountain, so that always towering above us we +have the grand snowy peak with its smoking summit. North and +south of us are deep bays, beyond which great glaciers come +rippling over the lower slopes to thrust high blue-walled snouts +into the sea. The sea is blue before us, dotted with shining +bergs or ice floes, whilst far over the Sound, yet so bold and +magnificent as to appear near, stand the beautiful Western +Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks, their deep glacial +valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain scenery that +can have few rivals. + +'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the +most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and +most of the night in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera +and cinematograph. + +'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of +its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity +of the mansion. + +'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9) +the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of +cases containing things which suffer from being frozen. + +'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and +next it on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his +instruments, and on the other a space devoted to charts, +chronometers and instruments generally. + +'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans +have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five +beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and +Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space +opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a +bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space +set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a +12-foot table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs.... + +'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely +comfortable and conveniently placed for his work--in fact we +could not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will +have a small enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home. +We shall be away sledding late this year and off again early +next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that +such comfort awaits our return.' + +So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound +they had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon +their depôt journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly +from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however, +required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect +of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated +a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding +gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers, +sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the +stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality. +'Our clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running +through the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride +that there is not a single arrangement which I would have had +altered.... Everything looks hopeful for the depôt journey if +only we can get our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.' + +Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a +serious suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report +that the Terra Nova was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape, +saw at once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable +position. + +Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in +his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of +him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete +disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one consolation in +determining that, whatever happened, nothing should interfere with +the southern work. + +The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of +the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she +struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously +from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no +ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly, +and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that +an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling +produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again +to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had +been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent, +but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was +getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she +gathered stern way and was clear. + +'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and +she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I +hope the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here +and now I must record the splendid manner in which these men +are working. I find it difficult to express my admiration for +the manner in which the ship is handled and worked under these +very trying circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me +about it to-night; I think I like him more every day.' + +On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue +and satisfied themselves that the ice was good; and with the +25th fixed for the date of departure it was not too much to hope +that the ice would remain for three or four more days. The ponies +for Campbell's party were put on board on the 22nd, but when +Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning he saw, to his +astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay in a solid +mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and a wonderful +day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges and equipment +were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed; in short +everything to do with the depôt party was hurriedly put on board +except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and try to get +over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th. + +The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication +between the new station at Cape Evans and the Discovery hut, +for the rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island +prevented a passage by land. The Road provided level going below +the cliffs of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending +glacier; and there it was necessary to cross the body of the +glacier itself. It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays +and the sea-ice along the coast, which only stayed fast for the +season. Thus it was most important to get safely over the dangerous +part of this Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To +wait until after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut +Point would have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well +enough that the Road might not hold for many more hours, and it +actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed. + +Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott +and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led +out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test +the track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to +inspect Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities +of sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c. &c.; +but the pièce de résistance was the capture of several bucketsful +of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been previously +caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it alone repays +the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the ship skirted the Island, +and with a telescope those on board could watch the string of +ponies steadily progressing over the sea-ice past the Razor Back +Islands; and, as soon as they were seen to be well advanced, the +ship steamed on to the Glacier Tongue, and made fast in the narrow +angle made by the sea-ice with the glacier. + +Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on +the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without +much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier, +and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But +when Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30 +feet across, it was evident that they must get past it on the +glacier, and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks. + +Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to +start again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their +loads having already been taken on the floe. At first all went +well, but when the animals got down on the floe level and Oates +led across an old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at +the edge and sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it +sank deeper and deeper until only its head and forelegs showed +above the slush. With some trouble ropes were attached to these, +and the poor animal, looking very weak and miserable, was eventually +pulled out. + +After this experience the other five ponies were led farther +round to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small +feed was given to them, and then they were started off with their +loads. + +The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting +on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed +to security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott, +writing from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All +have arrived safely, and this evening we start our sledges south. +I expect we shall have to make three relays to get all our stores +on to the Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land +a geologising party on the west side of the Sound, and then to +proceed to King Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.' + +The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham, +Wright, and P.O. Evans, and for reasons already mentioned the +Eastern party were eventually known as the Northern party. + +On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier +and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one +team of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on +the following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the +men had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work. + +'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never +sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all +these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily +trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed +their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward. +God bless them.' + + * * * * * + +How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's +party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story of +their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of Campbell, +Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and the courage +shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless difficulties +and privations has met with the unstinted admiration that it most +thoroughly deserved. + + * * * * * + +For the depôt laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12 men +(Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans, Gran, +Meares, Forde, Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs. +Of the dogs he felt at this time more than a little doubtful, +but the ponies were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They +work with such extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and +cheerfully, following in each other's tracks. The great drawback +is the ease with which they sink in soft snow: they go through +in lots of places where the men scarcely make an impression--they +struggle pluckily when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.' + +In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to +complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained +to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labor of this day +tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the +next day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs +of breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the +situation. In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they +got into better condition, began to do excellent work. During +Sunday they ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the +Barrier to the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depôt. +'I don't think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but +it's just as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp +must deserve its distinctive title of "Safety."' + +By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely +handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable +account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of +trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs.... +Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble +of that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole +a few yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him +before one can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the +whip--and everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness +of the dog next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that +takes much patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the +whole team should get away with the sledge and its load, and +leave one behind.... I never did get left the whole of this depôt +journey, but I was often very near it, and several times had +only time to seize a strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged +along helter-skelter over everything that came in the way, till +the team got sick of galloping and one could struggle to one's +feet again. One gets very wary and wide-awake when one has to +manage a team of eleven dogs and a sledge load by oneself, but +it was a most interesting experience, and I had a delightful +leader, "Stareek" by name--Russian for "Old Man," and he was +the most wise old man.... Dog driving like this in the orthodox +manner is a very different thing from the beastly dog driving +we perpetrated in the Discovery days.... I got to love all my team +and they got to know me well.... Stareek is quite a ridiculous +"old man" and quite the nicest, quietest, cleverest old dog I +have ever come across. He looks in face as if he knew all the +wickedness of all the world and all its cares, and as if he were +bored to death by them.' + +When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until +they started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we +must travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous +than successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great +difficulty in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott +disclosed his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with +five weeks' food for men and animals, then to depôt a fortnight's +supply after twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp. +The loads for ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little +over 600 lbs., and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from +sledges. Whether the ponies could manage these loads depended on +the surface, and there was a great possibility that the dogs would +have to be lightened, but under the circumstances it was the best +plan they could hope to carry out. + +On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair +of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect. +In places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he +strolled round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately +after this experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made +to get more snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson +had started, on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to +the station twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned +with the news that there was no possibility of reaching Cape +Evans, and an additional stroke of bad fortune fell when Atkinson's +foot, which had been troublesome for some time, was examined and +found to be so bad that he had to be left behind with Crean as a +companion. + +Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,' +Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter +station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the +Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with +all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we +find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent +a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies, +but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned +this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right +sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year +is a help for next.' + +[Illustration: Pony Camp on the barrier.] + +At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after +marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes, +he found that they had been left behind, and Gran--whose expertness +on ski was most useful--immediately volunteered to go back and get +them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's suggestion +they had decided to take to night marching. And so at 12.30 A.M. +they started off once more on a surface that was bad at first but +gradually improved, until just before camping time Bowers, who was +leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several of the others, +following close behind him, shared the same fate, and soon three +ponies were plunging and struggling in a drift, and had to be +unharnessed and led round from patch to patch until firmer ground +was reached. + +Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put +on Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he +settled down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only +that but also another over places into which he had previously +been plunging. Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great +help to their work had been left behind at the station, and it +was all the more trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed +in the snow, and panting and heaving from the strain, when the +remedies for his state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible +to reach. + +During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies, +on a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of +bad weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on +Saturday a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp +for three days. 'No fun to be out of the tent--but there are +no shirkers with us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the +ponies; Meares and Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us +as occasion required.' + +The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but +when it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the +effects of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished +the march listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner. + +But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load +was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and +led his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would +soon improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to +be kept alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the +journey would have to be curtailed. + +During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be +stronger. 'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott +wrote on Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for +the day an account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of +our sleeping-bags about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout +to the Soldier [Footnote: Oates.] "How are things?" There is a +response suggesting readiness, and soon after figures are busy +amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling work for the fingers +and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come off the animals, +the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment are loaded on +the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one by one the +animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to the sledge. +Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep such a nervous +creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt one feels +impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy fellows. +Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and ends. + +'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few +pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking +their tent. With numbed fingers on our horse's bridle and the +animal striving to turn its head from the wind one feels resentful. +At last all is ready. One says "All right, Bowers, go ahead," and +Birdie leads his big animal forward, starting, as he continues, at +a steady pace. The horses have got cold and at the word they are +off, the Soldier's and one or two others with a rush. Finnesko give +poor foothold on the slippery sastrugi, [Footnote: Irregularities +formed by the wind on a snow-plain.] and for a minute or two +drivers have some difficulty in maintaining the pace on their +feet. Movement is warming, and in ten minutes the column has +settled itself to steady marching. + +'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or +another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone. +These are the only real incidents of the march--for the rest it +passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. The +weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon up in +line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a single +halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop long +and a very few minutes found us on the go again. + +'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle. +Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his +tent mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the +picket lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two +other sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we +are drawn up in camp formation. The picket lines are run across +at right angles to the line of advance and secured to the two +sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies are on the lines +covered, tents up again and cookers going. + +'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp, +have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks. +They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after +our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into +an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp +forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and +within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags.... +At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow +walls and improving their rugs, &c. + +A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult, +and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed +signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday +morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had +to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to +play an important part in the future. By this time three of the +ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott +decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them. + +Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard, +and Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by +Bowers' imperviousness to cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful. +Throughout the night he has worn no head-gear but a common green +felt hat kept on with a chin-stay and affording no cover whatever +for the ears. His face and ears remain bright red. The rest of +us were glad to have thick Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have +never seen anyone so unaffected by the cold. To-night he remained +outside a full hour after the rest of us had got into the tent. +He was simply pottering about the camp doing small jobs to the +sledges, &c. Cherry-Garrard is remarkable because of his eyes. He +can only see through glasses and has to wrestle with all sorts of +inconveniences in consequence. Yet one could never guess it--for +he manages somehow to do more than his share of the work.' + +Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so +bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and +the soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps +and made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they +struggled on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace, +and when they were three-quarters of a mile behind the others +the dog teams (which always left the camp after the others) +overtook them. Then the dogs got out of hand and attacked Weary +Willy, who put up a sterling fight but was bitten rather badly +before Meares and Gran could drive off the dogs. Afterwards it +was discovered that Weary Willy's load was much heavier than +that of the other ponies, and an attempt to continue the march +had quickly to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some +compensation for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large +snow wall, and some extra sacking, and on the following day he +showed appreciation of these favors by a marked improvement. +Bowers' pony, however, refused work for the first time, and Oates +was more despondent than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to +see that this is a characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays +every attention to the weaker horses.' + +No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers' +pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn +back on the following day. During the last march out the temperature +fell to -21° with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were +frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely, +but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to +feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing +such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will find +spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the point +of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which gives him +much trouble--this is the worse prospect for summit work. I have +been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, this cold spell +gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but one must be prepared +for a pretty good doing.' + +The depôt was built during the next day, February 17, Lat. 79° +29' S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed. + +Stores left in depôt: + + lbs. + 245 7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit + 12 2 days' provision bags for 1 unit + 8 8 weeks' tea + 31 6 weeks' extra butter + 176 lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit) + 85 8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit) + 850 5 sacks of oats + 424 4 bales of fodder + 250 Tank of dog biscuit + 100 2 cases of biscuit + ---- + 2181 + + 1 skein white line + 1 set breast harness + 2 12 ft. sledges + 2 pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks + 1 Minimum Thermometer + 1 tin Rowntree cocoa + 1 tin matches + +Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80°, he was satisfied that they +had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed the +ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff +and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes +to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the +sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The depôt cairn +was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party had +the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to show +up for many miles. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +PERILS + + ...Yet I argue not + Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot + Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer + Right onward. + --MILTON. + +On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard +went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates +and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent +marches were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as +Scott was to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened +to the other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied +with the daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came +in their rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a +most serious disaster. + +The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday +night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could +be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an +hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined +pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the +teams were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams +driven by Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,' +Cherry-Garrard says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after +another, like dogs going down a hole after a rat.' + +In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished +from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader, +put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold. +The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and +Meares jumped aside. + +In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually +been traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had +stopped on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss. +'Why the sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall +never know. I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must +have taken us down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear +of the bridge and anchored, they peered into the depths of the +cracks. The dogs, suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions, +were howling dismally and almost frantic with terror. Two of them +had dropped out of their harness and, far below, could be seen +indistinctly on a snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the +chain had bitten deep into the snow at the side of the crevasse +and with the weight below could not possibly be moved. + +By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and +Cherry-Garrard, the latter hurriedly bringing the Alpine rope, +the exact position of which on the sledge he most fortunately +knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the team was not by +any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt failed. In +spite of their determined efforts they could get not an inch +on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope, which +with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the snow. + +Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a +definite plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent, +cooker, and sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then +Scott, seizing the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the +tent-poles across the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get +a few inches on the leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness +was immediately cut. The next step was to secure the leading +rope to the main trace and haul up together. By this means one +dog was rescued and unlashed, but the rope already had cut so +far back at the edge that efforts to get more of it were useless. + +[Illustration: Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.] + +'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should +have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap +and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and +pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored +trace while the others worked at the leader end. The leading +rope, however, was so very small that Scott was afraid of its +breaking, and Meares was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope +to the leading end of the trace; when this had been done the +chance of rescuing the dogs at once began to improve. + +Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen +were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other +dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see +if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled. +The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the +depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and +insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm, +and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the +surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose +above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to +stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams. + +'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three +of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end. +That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he +never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them. +When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring, +but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this +is running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."' + +For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it +was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated +themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott +and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed outright, +but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful signs +of recovery after their terrible experience. + +On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were +as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed +a very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is +certain, the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with +men sitting on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the +teams and the Russian custom must be dropped.' + +At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to +Scott's great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return +journey. Forde had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher, +and although the greatest care had also been given to Blossom, +both of them were left on the Southern Road. The remaining one +of the three, James Pigg, had managed not only to survive but +actually to thrive, and, severe as the loss of the two ponies was, +some small consolation could be gained from the fact that they +were the oldest of the team, and the two which Oates considered +to be the least useful. + +After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard +and Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished +to find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable, +no one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag +containing a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But +presently what turned out to be the true solution of this curious +state of affairs was guessed, namely, that Atkinson and Crean +had been on their way from the hut to Safety Camp as the others +had come from the camp to the hut, and later on Scott saw their +sledge track leading round on the sea-ice. + +Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened +to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round +Cape Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety +Camp, but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred +yards of their destination that they saw three tents instead +of two, and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner, +however, had Scott received his letters than his feelings of +relief were succeeded by sheer astonishment. + +'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents +of the mail bag which Atkinson gave me--a letter from Campbell +setting out his doings and the finding of Amundsen established +in the Bay of Whales. + +'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, +as well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as +though this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for +the honor of the country without fear or panic. + +'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace +to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles--I +never thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to +the ice. His plan for running them seems excellent. But above +and beyond all he can start his journey early in the season--an +impossible condition with ponies.' + +The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had, +after landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point, +proceeded along the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across +Amundsen camped in the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however, +for Campbell's party could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was +a great disappointment to us all, but there was nothing for it +but to return to McMurdo Sound to communicate with the main party, +and then try to effect a landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet +or as far to the westward as possible on the north coast of +Victoria Land, and if possible to explore the unknown coast west +of Cape North. We therefore made the best of our way to Cape +Evans, and arrived on the evening of the 8th. Here I decided +to land the two ponies, as they would be very little use to us +on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land, and in view of the +Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party would require +all the transport available. After landing the ponies we steamed +up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there, taking +Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point, where +the depôt party would call on their way back.' + +Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news +which was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he +refused to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans. + +Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and +Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and +Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and +Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James +Pigg, started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out +and saw a short black line on the horizon towards White Island. +Presently he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions, +but they were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp; +so when the latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers, +but was glad to see five pony walls and consequently to know +that all the animals were still alive. + +Having depôted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard +and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James +Pigg by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in +the tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday +did Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were +without exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially +in a pitiable condition. + +As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp, +arrangements were made immediately for a general shift to Hut +Point, and about four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson +and Meares got safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to +start, the plan being for them to follow in the tracks of the +dogs; the route was over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing +to the spread of water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious. + +At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight +was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on +with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott, +with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the +sick pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy +died during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start necessary +for next year,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1, +but on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of +the past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only +one comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.' + +Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates +and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage depôt, which +was at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge, in a +S.S.E. direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky looked +black and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes loomed +out ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the strange +optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew close +to the depôt all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full of broken +pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew to the +ponies and dogs. + +They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a +working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in +line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first +thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling back from +Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran went to +the depôt with a note as Oates and I disconsolately thought out +the situation. I thought to myself that if either party had +reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would +immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By +this time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour +passed, and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that +two specks in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.' + +When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered +them to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him, +because they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary +Willy had upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming +reports that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice. + +The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs +began very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left +Safety Camp with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge +of the Barrier,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs +were on ahead and we saw them turn and make right round Cape +Armitage. "Uncle Bill" got done, and I took up the dog tracks +which we followed over the tide crack and well on towards Cape +Armitage. + +'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after +fresh crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching +through for many feet on both sides. We all thought it impossible +to proceed and turned back.... The ponies began to get very done, +and Bowers decided to get back over the tide crack, find a snowy +place, and camp. + +'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed +to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have +been with the ponies. + +'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers +cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a +long time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt +very bad for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all +his. Otherwise we had a good meal. + +'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside +down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers +went out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened +by a grinding sound, jumped up, and found the situation as +follows:-- + +'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to +thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think +about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe, +and "Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to +us all and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks. +We packed anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker. +It seemed to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said +so, but Bowers decided to try. + +'We decided that to go towards White Island looked best, and for +five hours traveled in the following way:--we jumped the ponies +over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then man-hauled +the sledges after them, then according to the size of the floe +sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled +the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I +should think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.' + +At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the +Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get +up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere +off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to +try and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and +leaping from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with +the help of his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It +was a desperate venture, but luckily successful.' + +And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing +the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen +rapidly making for the depôt from the west. + +As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the +situation he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares, +and started with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of +the mishap. A halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions +and oil, and then, marching carefully round, they approached +the ice-edge, and to their joy caught sight of Bowers and +Cherry-Garrard. With the help of the Alpine rope both the men +were dragged to the surface, and after camp had been pitched +at a safe distance from the edge all hands started upon salvage +work. The ice at this time lay close and quiet against the Barrier +edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and Cherry-Garrard had been +hauled up, the sledges and their contents were safely on the +Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were saved, the ice +began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing could be +done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon their floes. + +'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were +dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30 +yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast we +discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor their +floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It was a sad +moment.' + +Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced +that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed +and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the +poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life. +Then there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge +and discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable +way to land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, +tried to leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually +we had to kill him--it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed +out my road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and +worked their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with +them on the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought +we should get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump +and plunged into the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice-- +killer whales all about us in an intense state of excitement. +The poor animal couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to +kill it. These incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday, +March 2), we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to +the one I had just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our +sad journey to Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss +of our ponies, but mercifully with all the party alive and well.' + +At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only +three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this +physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E. +Evans and his party were safe; but while they were camping that +night on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well, +came in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut +Point in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran, +who were looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in +trying to make two sleeping-bags do the work of three. + +On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing +and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep in +the bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were cut +off from any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze +over, and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up +a small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire +for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not +much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also +with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his +sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party +to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing +in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we +couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work. +There were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in +Discovery days, and with these we built up a small inner hut to +live in.' + +On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on +Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have +all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James +Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on +the depôt journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition +there was reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had +not happened. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +A HAPPY FAMILY + + By mutual confidence and mutual aid + Great deeds are done and great discoveries made. + --ANON. + +With the certainty of having to stay in the Discovery hut for +some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable +as possible. With packing-cases a large L-shaped inner apartment +was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty +kerosene tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent +little stove which was connected to the old stove-pipe. + +As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available, +and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and +Wilson found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out +and was crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party +as much meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary +for our comfort and only need a little more experience to make the +best of our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which +everyone is learning the ropes, and the resource which is being +shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful suggestions +and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower of strength +in checking the ill-usage of clothes--what I have come to regard as +the greatest danger with Englishmen.' + +On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased +in force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which +drove the Discovery ashore. The blizzard continued until noon +on Tuesday, on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith +Taylor, Wright, Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut +after a successful trip. + +Two days later another depôt party started to Corner Camp, E. Evans, +Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard +and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting of Wright to join +in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.' + +During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were +constantly being increased, but continuous bad weather was both +depressing to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort +had been made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of +wind made it impossible to give them shelter in all directions. +At least five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen +others were by no means strong, but whether because they were +constitutionally harder or whether better fitted by nature to +protect themselves the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit +as they could be. As it was found to be impossible to keep the +dogs comfortable in the traces, the majority of them were allowed +to run loose; for although Scott feared that this freedom would +mean that there would be some fights to the death, he thought it +preferable to the risk of losing the animals by keeping them on +the leash. The main difficulty with them was that when the ice once +got thoroughly into the coats their hind legs became half paralyzed +with cold, but by allowing them to run loose it was hoped that +they would be able to free themselves of this serious trouble. +'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind to us. This month +will have sad memories. Still I suppose things might be worse; +the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly well....' + +The depôt party returned to the hut on March 23, but though the +sea by this time showed symptoms of wanting to freeze, there +was no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day. +Stock therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements +were made for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A +week later the ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of +Hut Point, but the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island +still refused to freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began +to think that they might not be able to get back to Cape Evans +before May. Soon afterwards, however, the sea began to freeze +over completely, and on Thursday evening, April 6, a program, +subject to the continuance of good weather, was arranged for a +shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels good,' Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to +have something doing in the air.' But the weather prevented them +from starting on the appointed day, and although Scott was most +anxious to get back and see that all was well at Cape Evans, the +comfort achieved in the old hut was so great that he confessed +himself half-sorry to leave it. + +Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around +the fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter +and a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. +After lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt +a long stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter. + +'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again +with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival +one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver.... +Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night--or nearly +every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has proved +a genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his reputation. +He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber, suggesting +that the latter could be freed from all rankness.... The "fry" +proved redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that +peculiar flavor which faintly lingers in the meat and should not +be emphasized. Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the +rest of us decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after +tasting the first mouthful. [Footnote: Wilson, referring to this +incident in his Journal, showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over +a fry I made in my new penguin lard. It was quite a success and +tasted like very bad sardine oil.'] + +'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking and conversation--a +cheering, pleasant hour--in which reminiscences are exchanged by a +company which has very literally had world-wide experience. There +is scarce a country under the sun which one or another of us has +not traveled in, so diverse are our origins and occupations. + +'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone can +manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a few +would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which +goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly +healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke, +appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.' + +On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the +party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one +tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another; +Wilson being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde, +Keohane, Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard. + +In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became +evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending, +and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs. +Seven and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks, +a very icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light +became bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time. +Half an hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to +the ice cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock and Erebus +all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear track to +the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there no low +place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer drop), +and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to drift +off the ridge a quick decision had to be made. + +Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to +work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered. +Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder +of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and +speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without +serious frost-bites. + +The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very +heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A +stiff incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was +failing and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell +in with considerable risk of damage. The north side, however, +was well snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice +cliff in which a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under +the circumstances Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but +darkness suddenly fell upon them, and after very heavy pulling +for many hours they were so totally unable to see anything ahead, +that at 10 P.M. they were compelled to pitch their camp under +little Razor Back Island. During the night the wind began to +rise, and in the morning a roaring blizzard was blowing, and +obviously the ice on which they had pitched their camp was none +too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull, until at 3 +P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result +that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under +the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours, +but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer +from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied +down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the +wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening; +we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only +one more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to +get than on the previous night, because they knew that they were +no longer in danger of being swept out to sea. + +The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning +the party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen +clothes were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only +two miles, and after some very hard pulling they arrived off +the point and found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It +was a very great relief to see the hut on rounding it and to +hear that all was well.' + +In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility +of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that +no heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; +secondly, that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack +which would damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well +protected by the Barne Glacier; and, lastly, that the beach itself +showed no signs of having been swept by the sea. When, however, +the hut had been erected and he found that its foundation was +only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice, he could not +rid himself entirely of misgivings. + +As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not +until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious +he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been +in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the +ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself +of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal +swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the +small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was +mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen +by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants +(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton +and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute +the most important events of the quiet station life were told, +the worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and +one dog had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked +admirably, and the scientific routine of observations was in full +swing. + +After their primitive life at the Discovery hut the interior +space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort +luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to +enjoy the first bath for three months, and have contact with +clean, dry clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom +soon banished their delight) are the treasured remembrance of +every Polar traveler.' Not for many hours or even minutes, however, +was Scott in the hut before he was taken round to see in detail +the transformation that had taken place in his absence, and in +which a very proper pride was taken by those who had created it. + +First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous +shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, +electric batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the +tickings of many clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally +the trembling note of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me +days and even months to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist +and the scientific accuracy with which he was achieving them.' + +From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection +into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography +had never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely +without them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of +negatives and prints can only be justified by the quality of the +work produced in it, and is only justified in our case by such +an artist as Ponting.' + +From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared, to +their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing +note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid +tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements of the +hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried out +with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next, and +Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown by +Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was called +in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that he was +capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases, I was +less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had +considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his +attention to pots and pans.' + +The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals, +and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that +some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated +fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the ten +remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the +furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective. + +Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it +was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not +only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been +built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions, +in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were +almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that +had assailed him on the homeward route. + +Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the +comforts of Cape Evans, as on Monday, April 17, they were off +again to Hut Point with two 10-foot sledges, a week's provisions +of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal, &c., for the hut. Scott, +Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first sledge; Bowers, Nelson, +Crean and Hooper the second; and after a rather adventurous journey, +in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp work as of old,' they reached +Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following day, and found everyone well +and in good spirits. The party left at the hut were, however, very +short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety, because until the sea froze +over there was no possibility of getting the ponies back to Cape +Evans. But three seals were reported on the Wednesday and promptly +killed, and so Scott, satisfied that this stock was enough for +twelve days, resolved to go back as soon as the weather would allow +him. + +Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with +the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson, +Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the +homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott, +Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates, +Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the +leaders, and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with +the second sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean +declared that although the loads were equal there was a great +difference in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented +when I voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party +thought it the plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like +proof, and he readily assented to change sledges. The difference +was really extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight +compared with the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters +regardless of how much we perspired.' + +All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked +through, and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice +fell upon the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief +and showed the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold, +however, was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish +of rice and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was +at an end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses +they had sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson, +Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut +since it had been fitted out, were astonished at its comfort. + +On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point, +the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun. +Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, +Hooper, Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton, +but in making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning +that those who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead +them in the spring. + +Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally +busy unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators. +Wright began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates +started to make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard +employed himself in building a stone house for taxidermy and +with a view to getting hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during +the winter, while Taylor and Debenham took advantage of the last +of the light to examine the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans +surveyed the Cape and its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in +addition to their other work, spent hours over balloon experiments. +In fact everyone was overflowing with energy. + +On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back +from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for +good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice; +and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of +every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously, +however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that +could not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter +steadily progressed. + +At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of +the South Polar Times and the following notice was issued: + + The first number of the South Polar Times will be published + on Midwinter Day. + + All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously, + and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible. + No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31. + + A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not + intended that the paper shall be too scientific. + + Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing. + Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration + are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible. + + The Editor, + S. P. T. + +The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required +a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he +would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were +fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar +literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake. + +On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of +winter lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and +in turn Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured +on their special subjects. But still the Discovery hut party did +not appear, although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over +for nearly a week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that +they would return. In the meantime there was work and to spare +for everyone, and as the days went by Scott was also given ample +opportunities to get a thorough knowledge of his companions. + +'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so +demonstrative of character as that which we had on these +expeditions. One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under +ordinary conditions it is so easy to carry a point with a little +bounce; self-assertion is a mask which covers many a weakness.... +Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that +counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them. +Pretence is useless. + +'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and color box, rapidly and +steadily adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at +intervals filling the gaps in his zoological work of Discovery +times; withal ready and willing to give advice and assistance +to others at all times; his sound judgment appreciated and +therefore a constant referee. + +'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers +at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations +are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.' + +'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his +mind with the ice problems of this wonderful region...' + +And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E. +Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and +conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly +the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of +gratitude. + +'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working +of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all +arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly +adjusted to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing +the length of time which each of our possessions will last us and +the assurance that there can be no waste. Active mind and active +body were never more happily blended. It is a restless activity +admitting no idle moments and ever budding into new forms. + +'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he is +away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such +a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out +again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because +for the moment there is no one else to care for these animals.... +He is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any +discomfort from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with +equal profit. For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding +food and clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an +authority on past records. This will be no small help to me and +one which others never could have given. + +'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly +pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world. +The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are +his field of labor.... His bench with its array of microscopes, +etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater +part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic +enthusiasm.... + +'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet +workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness +to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places; +sound all through and pretty hard also.... + +'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really devoted to +their care, and I believe will produce them in the best possible +form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores, installing +a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his satellite, +Anton, is ever at work in the stables--an excellent little man. + +'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt +boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is +no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness. + +On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline +of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the +problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on +the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general +agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed +to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the +problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any +suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be +a tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.' + +At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were +returning, and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and +reported that the ponies were not far behind. For more than three +weeks the weather at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and +fine, and with joy Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking +remarkably well, and that the two ponies also seemed to have +improved. 'It is a great comfort to have the men and dogs back, +and a greater to contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled +for the winter. Everything seems to depend on these animals.' + +With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and +games of football--when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers +to get their toes frost-bitten--in the afternoons, the winter +passed steadily on its way; the only stroke of misfortune being +that one of the dogs died suddenly and that a post-mortem did +not reveal any sufficient cause of death. This was the third +animal that had died without apparent reason at winter-quarters, +and Scott became more than ever convinced that to place any +confidence in the dog teams would be a mistake. + +On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans +and Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted +of a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels-- +and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions. +The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity of +provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the party +discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday services +had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were all that +could be mustered. + +[Illustration: "Birdie" Bowers reading the thermometer on the +ramp, June 6th, 1911.] + +June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did +not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top +of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in +chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott. +A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat +down with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this +luxurious meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative. +As I write there is a group in the dark room discussing political +progress with large discussions, another at one corner of the +dinner table airing its views on the origin of matter and the +probability of its ultimate discovery, and yet another debating +military problems.... Perhaps these arguments are practically +unprofitable, but they give a great deal of pleasure to the +participants.... They are boys, all of them, but such excellent +good-natured ones; there has been no sign of sharpness or anger, +no jarring note, in all these wordy contests; all end with a +laugh. Nelson has offered Taylor a pair of socks to teach him +some geology! This lulls me to sleep!' + +On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying, +and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he +wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points +were: + +1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to + have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass + at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it + to obtain a true course from the compass.... + +2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depôt + from another. + +3. He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite. + +4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation. + +5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to + work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude. + +6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter. + +7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries + and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time. + +8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of + objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new + peaks, &c. + +That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears +is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later. +In it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious +face to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For +the moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I +remembered that some months ago I said that it would be a good +thing for all the officers going South to have some knowledge of +navigation so that in emergency they would know how to steer a +sledge home. It appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious +and arduous course of abstruse navigational problems which he found +exceedingly tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is +not one chance in a hundred that he will ever have to consider +navigation on our journey and in that one chance the problem must +be of the simplest nature, but it makes it much easier for me to +have men who take the details of one's work so seriously and who +strive so simply and honestly to make it successful.' + +In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working at +latitude sights--mathematics which I hate--till bedtime. It will be +wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge journey.' + +Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions +to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome, +a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began +to prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to +sweep the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men +were out and about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the +ponies, Demetri to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon +the slumberers with announcements of the time, and presently +Wilson and Bowers met in a state of nature beside a washing basin +filled with snow and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this +chilly substance. A little later others with less hardiness could +be seen making the most of a meager allowance of water. A few +laggards invariably ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and +a little pressure had to be applied so that they should not delay +the day's work. + +By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table +was cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed +on a program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful +half-hour was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if +the weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who +were not employed in this way generally exercised themselves +in some way or other. After this the officers went steadily on +with their special work until 6.30, when dinner was served and +finished within the hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and +usually the gramophone, but three nights of the week were given +up to lectures. At 11 P.M. the acetylene lights were put out, +and those who wished to stay up had to depend on candle-light. +The majority of candles, however, were extinguished by midnight, +and the night watchman alone remained awake to keep his vigil +by the light of an oil lamp. + +Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday +morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on. +'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage +of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly +not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the +twenty-four.' + +On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very +hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and +fears. 'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than +his sledge is reliable in action. I wish I could have more +confidence in his preparations, as he is certainly a delightful +companion.' Three days later Midwinter was celebrated with great +festivities, and after lunch the Editor handed over the first +number of the S. P. T. to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at +the top of the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a +teacher' is the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read +aloud most of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written +by Taylor, some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's +illustrations to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites; +indeed the editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to +Wilson, though Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and +sealskin was also 'a great help.' As all the contributions were +anonymous great fun was provided by attempts to guess the various +authors, and some of the denials made by the contributors were +perhaps more modest than strictly truthful. + +These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared +with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the +'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table, and +at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner. + +Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the +celebration as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in +the plans of the expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that +some of the company did not realize how rapidly the weeks were +passing, and that in consequence work which ought to have been in +full swing had barely been begun, he went on to say that it was +time they knew how they stood in every respect, and especially +thanked the officer in charge of the stores and those who looked +after the animals, for knowing the exact position as regards +provision and transport. Then he said that in respect to the +future chance must play a great part, but that experience showed +him that no more fitting men could have been chosen to support +him on the journey to the South than those who were to start in +that direction in the following spring. Finally he thanked all +of his companions for having put their shoulders to the wheel +and given him so much confidence. + +Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and +afterwards everyone was called to speak in turn. + +'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly, +all had exceedingly kind things to say of me--in fact I was obliged +to request the omissions of compliments at an early stage. +Nevertheless it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition +of my attitude towards the scientific workers of the expedition, +and I felt very warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for +expressing it. If good will and fellowship count towards success, +very surely shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment, +much applauded, that there had not been a single disagreement +between any two members of our party from the beginning. By the +end of dinner a very cheerful spirit prevailed.' + +The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged +in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local +negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and +of those on board the Terra Nova had been drunk, a set of lancers +was formed. In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly +appeared, followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas +tree, the branches of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, +and little presents for everyone; the distribution of which caused +infinite amusement. Thus the high festival of Midwinter was +celebrated in the most convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent +of a Christmas spent in England was partly, at any rate, due to +those kind people who had anticipated the celebration by providing +presents and other tokens of their interest in the expedition. + +'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an +outburst in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated +the birth of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered +amongst the greatest in our lives.' + + + + +CHAPTER V + +WINTER + + Come what may + Time and the hour runs through the darkest day. + --SHAKESPEARE. + +During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy +in making preparations for their departure. The object of their +journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness +of an Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as +could furnish a series of early embryos, by means of which alone +the particular points of interest in the development of the bird +could be worked out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at +the coldest season of the year, this journey entailed the risk +of sledge traveling in mid-winter, and the travelers had also to +traverse about a hundred miles of the Barrier surface, and to +cross a chaos of crevasses which had previously taken a party as +much as two hours to cross by daylight. + +[Illustration: Pitching the double tent on the summit. +(P.O. Evans; Dr. Wilson.)] + +Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard +were with the help of others making preparations, and apart +from the extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it +was most interesting because the travelers were to make several +experiments. Each man was to go on a different food scale, +eiderdown sleeping-bags were to be carried inside the reindeer +ones, and a new kind of crampon and a double tent were to be +tried. 'I came across a hint as to the value of a double tent +in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"' Scott wrote on June 20, 'and +P.O. Evans has made a lining for one of the tents, it is secured +on the inner side of the poles and provides an air space inside +the tent. I think it is going to be a great success.' + +By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans +were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following +morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter +travel is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone +to attempt it. All good luck go with them!' + +While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work +went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming +incident until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew +furiously, but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson +and Gran, without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the +floe for the North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This +happened at 5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not +until later did Scott hear that he had only gone two or three +hundred yards from the land, and that it had taken him nearly +an hour to find his way back. + +Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was +nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until +the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At +9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for +him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious +accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once +dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as +the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased, +as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off +and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one +conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be +got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the +scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched. + +Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence; +and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter +of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently, +to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson, +who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected +after such an adventure, very confused. + +At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have +returned and all is well again, but we must have no more of these +very unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize +that this bit of experience has done more than all the talking +I could have ever accomplished to bring home to our people the +dangers of a blizzard.' + +On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great +danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not +until he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was +frost-bitten. Having waited there for some time he groped his +way to the western end, and then wandering away in a swirl of +drift to clear some irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely +lost the island when he could only have been a few yards from it. +In this predicament he clung to the old idea of walking up wind, +and it must be considered wholly providential that on this course +he next struck Tent Island. Round this island he walked under the +impression that it was Inaccessible Island, and at last dug +himself a shelter on its lee side. When the moon appeared he +judged its bearing well, and as he traveled homeward was vastly +surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island appear on his left. +'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man has not only +to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must struggle +with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning power +which is far more likely to undo him.' + +About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had +ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week. +The force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled +earlier in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale +was the long continuance of a very cold temperature. On Friday +night the thermometer registered -39°, and throughout Saturday +and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35°. It +was Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had +to go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions +for any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine +snow beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath, +and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger +of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go +to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while +engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind +with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his +course. + +By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5° or +7°, but the gale +still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge, +however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to +Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing +the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy +of every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a +rainy day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal +material, leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered +with the same spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, +Oates and Meares, while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects +to bemoan imaginary shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee +that we are prepared to face any serious call.' + +For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind moderated, and the +ponies were able to get a short walk over the floe, but this was +only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon blowing as furiously +as ever. And the following night brought not only a continuance +of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day one of the best +ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in spite of Oates' +and Anton's most careful attention he soon became critically ill. +Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second, and sacks +were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour after +hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on +Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same +tale from Oates and Crean, [Footnote: Bones was the pony which +had been allotted to Crean.] who never left their patient. +'Towards midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so +certain that we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin of +safety has already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the +circumstance that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly +risk failure.' + +Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement, +and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and +proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the +return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for +anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue +to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered +his sense of security, and although various alterations were made +in the arrangements of the stables and extra precautions were taken +as regards food, he was never again without alarms for the safety +of the precious ponies. + +Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23, +but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the +atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no +longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity +of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never +been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide +us over all minor difficulties.' + +By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the +Crozier Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they +came back looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for +five weeks the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were +scarred and wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened +and creased with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite +obviously the main part of their afflictions arose from sheer +lack of sleep, and after a night's rest they were very different +people both in mind and body. + +Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this +morning very much his keen, wiry self--Bowers is quite himself +to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still +looks worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely--but +Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers +has come through best, all things considered, and I believe that +he is the hardest traveler that ever undertook a Polar journey, +as well as one of the most undaunted; more by hint than direct +statement I gather his value to the party, his untiring energy +and the astonishing physique which enables him to continue to +work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing to others. +Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little man.' + +Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey +from the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week +the thermometer fell below -60°, and on one night the minimum +showed -71°, and on the next -77°. Although in this fearful cold +the air was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind +eddied across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized +being has ever encountered such conditions before with only a +tent of thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that +Amundsen when journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures +of a similar degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him +an igloo shelter nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight, +and finally he turned homeward and regained his ship after five +days' absence, while this party went outward and were absent for +five weeks. + +Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region, +and then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. +Blizzard followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better +than complete darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found +themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track, +sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice +disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they +ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge, +and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the +stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for +the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object +of their journey. + +The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be +made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing +their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they +failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started +again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful +ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock +overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel +hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that +time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed. +Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen +at this rookery in Discovery days, they could only count about a +hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that possibly +the date was too early, and that if the birds had not permanently +deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been seen. + +With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber +for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved, +made a hasty dash for their camp, which by good luck they regained. + +On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment +increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they +had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately +chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected +on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and +rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned +up, its disappearance being merely a question of time. + +Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several +valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and +amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore +it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the +roof to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it +secure, what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it +disappeared, as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon +the smother of snow swept over them, and all they could do was +to dive immediately for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put +out his head and said, 'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones +as he could manage, whereupon Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied, +'Yes, we're all right'; then all of them were silent for a night +and half a day, while the wind howled and howled, and the snow +entered every chink and crevice of their sleeping-bags. + +'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we +registered our maximum wind force, and it seems probable that +it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently than on us.' + +The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched +travelers then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth +over their heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in +forty-eight hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal +under these extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans +to build shelters on the homeward route. Every night, they decided, +they must dig a large pit and cover it as best they could with +their floorcloth. + +Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile +from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured. But +on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard +fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days. + +By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond +description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact +they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually +broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been +coated with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside +vests at night they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed +it is scarcely possible to realize the horrible discomforts of +these three forlorn travelers, as they plodded back across the +Barrier in a temperature constantly below -60°. + +[Illustration: Adélie penguin on nest.] + +[Illustration: Emperor penguins on sea-ice.] + +'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of +the penguins, but to me and to everyone who has remained here the +result of this effort is the appeal it makes to our imagination +as one of the most gallant stories of Polar history. That men +should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night to face the +most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness is something +new; that they should have persisted in this effort in spite of +every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a tale +for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling. + +'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall +know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays +its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information +remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown +the nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in +winter. Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have +proof, and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology +of our Strait.' + +Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey +Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary. +Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing +conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how +he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to +himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be +unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and +determination. + +In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the +knowledge of the winter conditions on the Barrier that they had +gained, their journey settled several points in connection with +future sledding work. They had traveled on a very simple food +ration in different and extreme proportions, for the only provisions +they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit and tea. After a short +experience they found that Wilson, who had arranged for the greatest +quantity of fat, had too much of it, while Cherry-Garrard, who had +declared for biscuit, had more than he could eat. Then a middle +course was struck which gave a proportion agreeable to all of them, +and which at the same time suited the total quantities of their +various articles of food. The only change that was suggested was +the addition of cocoa for the evening meal, because the travelers, +thinking that tea robbed them of their slender chance of sleep, +had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this way,' Scott +decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable ration for the +inland plateau.' + +Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the +eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became +iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers +never used his eiderdown bag, [Footnote: He insisted upon giving +it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully +self-sacrificing of him, more than I can write. I felt a brute +to take it, but I was getting useless unless I got some sleep, +which my big bag would not allow.'] and in some miraculous manner +he managed more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights +of the sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea +of the ice collected. + + Starting Final + Weight Weight + Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown. 17 lbs. 40 lbs. + Bowers, reindeer only. 17 " 33 " + C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown. 18 " 45 " + +The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons +were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older +form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated +in summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of +clothes, mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the +difficulties which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all +Wilson can say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent, +excellent." One continues to wonder as to the possibilities of +fur clothing as made by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling +that it may outclass our more civilized garb. For us this can +only be a matter of speculation, as it would have been quite +impossible to have obtained such articles. With the exception +of this radically different alternative, I feel sure we are as +near perfection as experience can direct. At any rate we can +now hold that our system of clothing has come through a severer +test than any other, fur included.' + +With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed, +and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the +returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the +spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became +almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott and the new +masters were to take charge on September 1, so that they could +exercise their respective animals and get to know them as well +as possible. The new arrangement was: + + Bowers Victor + Wilson Nobby + Atkinson Jehu + Wright Chinaman + Cherry-Garrard Michael + Evans (P.O.) Snatcher + Crean Bones + Keohane Jimmy Pigg + Oates Christopher + Scott and Oates Snippets. + +On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse +Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously +discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also +the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points +all sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion +was that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the +grating or racquet principle, would probably be the best, the +only alternative seeming to be to perfect the principle of the +lawn mowing shoe. 'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both +kinds: the first for the quiet animals and the last for the more +excitable. I am confident the matter is of first importance.' + +Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming +a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite +unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was, +Christopher, Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high +spirits that all three of them bolted on the 21st. + +A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due, +and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut. +Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went +outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes, +because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously +covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back +into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there +was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and +for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental +attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran +uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that +it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous +existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea +spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of +buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and +it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single +lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of +a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from +the fate of the "one-horse shay."' + +Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once +out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts +and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on +life of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have +changed. For if there is little that is new to be said about the +return of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real +and important event to those who have lived without it for so many +months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing in +brilliant sunshine. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS + + So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter, + the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that + human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of + any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is + simply the unwearied endeavor to remove its boundaries a little + further from our little sphere of action. + --HUXLEY. + +With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign +continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what +seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went +off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an +early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to +train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he +chose to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to +do, left him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased. + +Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding +figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their +organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little +troubled by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that +every arrangement had to be more than usually elastic, so that +both the complete success and the utter failure of the motors +could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says, 'that our +plan will carry us through without the motors (though in that +case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage of +such help as the motors may give.' + +The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity +the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the +ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of +these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde, +however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with +his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while +Bowers, Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs' +across the Western Mountains. + +[Illustration: Dog party starting from Hut Point.] + +[Illustration: Dog lines.] + +During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was +occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey, +every figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous +help.' And later on, in speaking of the transport department, +Scott says, 'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the +details of my plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers +is the only man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the +work without mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study +was that Scott came to the conclusion that there would be no +difficulty in getting to the Glacier if the motors were successful, +and that even if the motors failed they still ought to get there +with any ordinary degree of good fortune. To work three units of +four men from that point onward would, he admitted, take a large +amount of provisions, but with the proper division he thought that +they ought to attain their object. 'I have tried,' he said, 'to take +every reasonable possibility of misfortune into consideration;... +I fear to be too sanguine, yet taking everything into consideration +I feel that our chances ought to be good. The animals are in +splendid form. Day by day the ponies get fitter as their exercise +increases.... But we cannot spare any of the ten, and so there must +always be anxiety of the disablement of one or more before their +work is done.' + +Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were +successful, Scott was very eager that they should be of some +use so that all the time, money and thought which had been given +to their construction should not be entirely wasted. But whatever +the outcome of these motors, his belief in the possibility of +motor traction for Polar work remained, though while it was in +an untried and evolutionary state he was too cautious and wise +a leader to place any definite reliance upon it. + +If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors, +he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the +Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit +together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled +under such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more +especially to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a +single detail of our equipment which is not arranged with the +utmost care and in accordance with the tests of experience.' + +On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for +Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing +up the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and +preparing for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had +determined to make a better show of photographic work than had yet +been accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he +was to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at +hand. + +With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier +and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous +year, of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of +practicing with their cameras, Scott and his party started off +to the west on the 15th, without having decided precisely where +they were going or how long they would stay away. + +Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then +they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral +Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright +across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the +whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very +cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled +with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone +who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went +every few moments.' + +After plotting out the figures it turned out that the movement +varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation, +and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers. +Though a greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was +small enough to show that the idea of comparative stagnation was +correct. On the next day they came down the Glacier, and then went +slowly up the coast, dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed +the moraine, took angles and collected rock specimens. At Cape +Bernacchi a quantity of pure quartz was found, and in it veins of +copper ore--an interesting discovery, for it was the first find +of minerals suggestive of the possibility of working. + +On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance +mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the +land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it +suddenly dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the +land. Half recognizing familiar features they turned towards it, +and as they got close they saw that it was very like their old +Erebus Glacier Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and +realized that it was the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue. +Near the outer end they camped, and climbing on to it soon found +the depôt of fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes +planted to guide the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly +anchored, was the piece broken from the Glacier Tongue in the +previous March, a huge tract about two miles long which had +turned through half a circle, so that the old western end was +towards the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass +it is most astonishing that it should have remained intact +throughout its sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the +hut should be placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage +the occupants would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south +of Cape Evans is now 4° miles W.N.W. of it.' + +[Illustration: Panorama at Cape Evans. (Cliffs of Barne Glacier; +Open Sea; Mount Erebus.)] + +[Illustration: Berg in South Bay.] + +From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th, +just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along +the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been +more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they +had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although +an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled +to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started +again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time +to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features +could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of +the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound +in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M., +however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a +wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy +appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another +snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss +them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted +out. Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard +swept upon them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly +impossible to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage +to set up the outer one. A few hours later the weather again +cleared, and as they were more or less snowed up, they decided +to push for Cape Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at +1.15 A.M., pretty well done. The wind never let up for an instant; +the temperature remained about -16°, and the 21 statute miles +which we marched in the day must be remembered amongst the most +strenuous in my memory.... The objects of our little journey +were satisfactorily accomplished, but the greatest source of +pleasure to me is to realize that I have such men as Bowers and +P.O. Evans for the Southern journey. I do not think that harder +men or better sledge travelers ever took the trail. Bowers is +a little wonder. I realize all that he must have done for the +C. Crozier Party in their far severer experience.' + +Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans, +everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during +his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and +found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to +the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however, +had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be +incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements +that had already been made for a geological party to go to the +west would in all probability have to be altered. + +All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy +at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that +Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having +great trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being +harnessed and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge. +'He is going,' Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony, +wrote, 'to be a trial, but he is a good strong pony and should +do yeoman service. Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. +He is an ingenious person and has been turning up new rollers out +of a baulk of oak supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small +motor as a lathe. The motors may save the situation.' + +On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became +convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also +no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and +must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss +we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face +the bad as well as the good.' + +During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual +exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean +went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same +afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line +had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there +had been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and +found himself able to hold long conversations with Meares and +Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact, perhaps, but it seems wonderful +in this primitive land to be talking to one's fellow beings 15 +miles away. Oates told me that the ponies had arrived in fine +order, Christopher a little done, but carrying the heaviest load. +If we can keep the telephone going it will be a great boon, +especially to Meares later in the season.' + +After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of +photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out +to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries, +however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which +time Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from +Nelson's igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a +berg and hurt his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a +sledge party, and fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able +to join it. Scott himself at once hurried over the land, and +found Ponting very distressed and Clissold practically insensible. + +It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,' +and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures. +Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the +latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,' +and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve +feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of +the berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although +neither Wilson nor Atkinson thought that anything very serious +had happened, there was no doubt that the accident would prevent +him from taking the place allotted to him in the motor sledge +party. Thus there were two men on the sick list, and after all +the trouble that had been taken to get things ready for the summer +journeys Scott naturally felt that these misfortunes were more +than a little deplorable. On the other hand, all was going well +with the ponies, though Christopher's dislike to sledges seemed +rather to increase than to lessen. When once he was in the sledge +he had always behaved himself until October 13, when he gave a +really great exhibition of perversity. On this occasion a dog +frightened him, and having twisted the rope from Oates' hands +he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he had obtained +his freedom, he set about most systematically to get rid of his +load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged two bales +of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges a better +idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them with +the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell +swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned +his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short +distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his +antics had brought a small group to the scene, and presently +Oates, Bowers, Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the +sledge. Undaunted, however, by this human burden, he tried to +treat it as he had the bales of hay, and he did manage to dispose +of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into the +snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly +glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These +capers promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the +Barrier may effectually cure them.' + +On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe, +but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum) +splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed +his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance, +though at the same time retaining his opinion that with more +experience they might have been of the greatest service. 'The +trouble is that if they fail, no one will ever believe this.' + +The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans +and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's +time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing. +'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always +fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the +finest character I ever met--the closer one gets to him the more +there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable; +cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, +one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal, +and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and +things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humor and really +consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think he +is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much. + +'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a +positive treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously +energetic. He is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is +saying a good deal--nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, +and certainly no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a +hundred little tales to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his +unselfishness, and his inextinguishable good humor. He surprises +always, for his intelligence is of quite a high order and his +memory for details most exceptional. You can imagine him, as he is, +an indispensable assistant to me in every detail concerning the +management and organization of our sledding work and a delightful +companion on the march. + +'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working, +very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he +has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't +had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly +as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he +ever complained of anything in his life. + +'The Soldier is very popular with all--a delightfully humorous +cheery old pessimist--striving with the ponies night and day and +bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut. + +'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for +helping others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to +do a kind thing unobtrusively. + +'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses +of him in tight places. + +'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice +characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical +ability, and I believe is about as good a man as could have been +selected for his job. + +'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others, +though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round, +they are a perfectly excellent lot. + +'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges +and sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility +of resource which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as +sound and hard as ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote. +Crean is perfectly happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, +the harder the work, the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. +Lashly is his old self in every respect, hard working to the limit, +quiet, abstemious and determined. You see altogether I have a good +set of people with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve +something. + +'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such +a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most +diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another, +and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion +between acquaintances are just those which are most freely used +for jest.... I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. +So as I sit here I am very satisfied with these things. I think +that it would have been difficult to better the organization of +the party--every man has his work and is especially adapted for +it; there is no gap and no overlap. It is all that I desired, and +the same might well be said of the men selected to do the work.... + +'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets +to the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel +fast with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account +I decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have +done had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked +my plan, besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one +is out for. + +'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you. +Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you +can rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish--only I'm +afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture +much belittled. + +'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that +follows.' + +The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by +the weather until October 22, but on that day the most important +stores--which were for the returning depôts and to provision +the Discovery hut in case the Terra Nova did not arrive--were +taken by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their ponies to Glacier +Tongue. Accidents, however, were still to happen, for while Bowers +was holding the ponies so that Wilson and Evans could unload them, +Victor got the hook, which fastened the harness to the trace of +another pony, into his nose. At that moment a lot of drift swept +upon them, and immediately all three of the ponies stampeded, +Snatcher making for home and Nobby for the Western Mountains, +while Victor, with Bowers still hanging on to him, just bolted +here, there and everywhere. Wilson and P.O. Evans at once started +after their ponies, and the former by means of a biscuit as a bait +managed to catch Nobby west of Tent Island, but Snatcher arrived, +with a single trace and dangling sledge, by himself at Cape Evans. +Half an hour after Wilson had returned Bowers brought in Victor, +who had a gash in his nose, and was very much distressed. 'I +don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers managed to hang on to the +frightened animal; I don't believe anyone else would have done +so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet the animals appear +they must not be left by their drivers--no chance must be taken; +secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness must be altered +in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were to be expected, +one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous and expect them +to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we are off and +can know more definitely what resources we can count on.' + +In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two +days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western +Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident +being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery +while Debenham's knee was given time to improve. + +On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start, +but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the +next morning did they get away. At first there were frequent +stops, but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as +even a small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be +enough to show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport, +and so help to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition +of animal transport, he was intensely anxious about the result +of this trial trip. As this subject was one which was of the most +supreme interest to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an +expert upon these motor sledges. 'It has been said that Captain +Scott's sledges failed, and without further consideration the +design has been totally condemned, but this is quite unfair to the +design; and it must be admitted by everyone who has had anything +to do with the sledges, and has any sort of knowledge of mechanical +principles, that it was the engine that failed, not the transmission +gear at all. The engine used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one, +and most unexpectedly in the cold climate of the Antarctic it +over-heated and broke various parts, beyond possibility of repair +under the severe conditions. The reason of the breakdown therefore +applies to any and every form of motor sledge, and should a +satisfactory engine be available for one form of sledge, it is +equally available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair +judgment to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would +have applied equally to every form of motor transport which could +have been designed.' + +Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique +experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott +declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even +the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly +impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on +like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.' + +As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party--which +consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde--would have to leave +after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should be wasting +the season in this way. All things considered, I shall be glad to +get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote on the 28th. +And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are just off to Hut +Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave in an hour or so as +arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall all get off to-morrow. +So here end the entries in this diary with the first chapter of our +History. The future is in the lap of the gods; I can think of +nothing left undone to deserve success.' + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS + + Free men freely work. + Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease. + --E. B. BROWNING. + +'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of +missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape +Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going +away with high hopes of success and for the moment everything +smiles, but where risks must be taken the result must be dependent +on chance to some extent. + +'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have +lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all +are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result, +the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.' + +The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading +Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the +tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being +allowed to start, although so little confidence was still placed +in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his own pace +to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,' but the +chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the persistently +active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole way. + +On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat +disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good +knowledge was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and +the plan of advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start +was to be made from Hut Point in three parties--the very slow +ponies, the medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day, +E. R. Evans, Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place) +were already on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri, +were to follow the main detachments. + +Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was +said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with +Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and +Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well +together on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who +reported that Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after +Scott's party had camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri +and a small dog team, and the cinematograph was up in time to +catch the flying rearguard, which came along in fine form with +Snatcher, 'a wonderful little beast,' leading. Christopher had +given his customary exhibition when harnessed, and although the +Barrier surface had sobered him a little it was not thought +advisable for him to stop, and so the party fled through in the +wake of the advance guard, and were christened 'the through +train.' + +'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says, +'we packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like +these midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is +pleasant when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily +increases its heat. The two parties in front of us camped five +miles beyond Safety Camp, and we reached their camp some half +or three-quarters of an hour later. All the ponies are tethered +in good order, but most of them are tired--Chinaman and Jehu very +tired.... A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that +the motors passed at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong--they have from +four to five days' lead and should surely keep it.' + +On the next march they started in what for some time was to be +the settled order--Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's at +10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting they +picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both +the motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80° 30' Lat.' But +very soon afterwards a depôt of petrol was found; and worse was +to follow, as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across +a tin bearing the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2 +cylinder broken.' Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking +sledges, &c.; and notes from E. Evans and Day to tell the tale +of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used for Lashly's +machine, and as it would have taken a long time to strip Day's +engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they had decided +to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So the dream of +help from the machines is at an end! The track of the remaining +motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I shall expect +to see it every hour of the march.' + +On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a +bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and +not until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much +confidence in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E. +Evans saying that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day. +'They have taken on nine bags of forage, but there are three black +dots to the south which we can only imagine are the deserted motor +with its loaded sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting +party, as directed. It is a disappointment. I had hoped better +of the machines once they got away on the Barrier Surface.' + +From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged +that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to +be the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed. +Another note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. +The big end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine +was in good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this +misfortune, 'the engines are not fitted for working in this climate, +a fact that should be certainly capable of correction. One thing +is proved: the system of propulsion is altogether satisfactory. +The motor party has proceeded as a man-hauling party as arranged.' + +As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls +were at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was +more than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with +loads of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as +fit as they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing +of their loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs., +sledge included. 'We are all much cheered by this performance. +It shows a hardening up of ponies which have been well trained; +even Oates is pleased!' + +The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done +in the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their +new rugs and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could +scarcely feel the wind, and as this protection was a direct +result of experience gained in the previous year, Scott was glad +to feel that some good had been obtained from that disastrous +journey. But when the snow began to fall the ponies as usual +suffered, because it was impossible to devise any means of keeping +them comfortable in thick and driving snow. 'We men are snug and +comfortable enough, but it is very evil to lie here and know that +the weather is steadily sapping the strength of the beasts on +which so much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful +on such occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon +of the 7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped +about a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so +soon Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety, +but at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs +would pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face +such terrific winds. + +The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and +the question of starting was left open for a long time, several +of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the +decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after +midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that +his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman +took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman +even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In +fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and +this not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of +the ponies halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but +Christopher had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for +his tricks and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to +cling like grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had +worn off, and this was a long rather than a light task, as even +after ten miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got +the smallest chance. + +A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage +and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs. +Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and +although the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it +still remained a question how the ponies would get on under harder +conditions, Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very +encouraging. The cairns built in the previous year showed up very +distinctly and were being picked up with the greatest ease, and +this also was an additional cause for satisfaction because with +pony walls, camp sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march +seemed as if it must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott +says, 'Everyone is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we +camped this morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely +and the sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. +One devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the +windy Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped, +traveling easily.' + +On the next march they remained faithful to their program of +advancing a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during +the last two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together. +'It looked like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was +Cherry-Garrard's account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's +opinion it was clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment, +because the slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace +by joining with the others, while the fast rearguard had their +speed reduced. This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose +attempt to bolt, though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling +canter, was freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for +a pony who at the start had been thought incapable of doing a +single march. + +The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in +consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In +arriving at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong +head wind, and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading, +found it so impossible to see where he was going that he decided +to camp some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies +continued to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed +distance. + +A worse surface was in store for them when they started from +Camp 7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst +they had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained +soft, and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft +crust between a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between +these the snow lay in sandy heaps, making altogether the most +difficult conditions for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger +ponies continued to pull excellently, and even the poor old +crocks succeeded in covering 9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes +one anxious in spite of the rapidity with which changes take +place. I expected these marches to be a little difficult, but +not near so bad as to-day's.... In spite of the surface, the +dogs ran up from the camp before last, over 20 miles, in the +night. They are working splendidly.' + +The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following +day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon +the last year's Bluff depôt. Here Scott found a note, from which +he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must be +the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson had +a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought, +only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic +than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days; +and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well, +Jehu especially distinguishing himself. + +'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13, +'in a better position to know how we stand when we get to One +Ton Camp, now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these +beasts--very anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to have +been, and if they pull through well, all the thanks will be due +to Oates. I trust the weather and surface conditions will improve; +both are rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within +7 or 8 miles of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface +and some sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although +the ponies were working splendidly, it was painful work for them +to struggle on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when +harnessed were already a thing of the past--a fact which would +have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that his +strength was also beginning to diminish. + +One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed +on to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest +there, and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical +miles (15 statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will +get through, but that they have lost condition quicker than he +expected. Considering his usually pessimistic attitude this must +be thought a hopeful view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I +think that a good many of the beasts are actually in better form +than when they started, and that there is no need to be alarmed +about the remainder, always excepting the weak ones which we +have always regarded with doubt. Well, we must wait and see how +things go.' + +Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating +that his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait +for the main detachment at Lat. 80° 30'. The minimum thermometer +left there in the previous year showed -73°, which was rather +less than Scott had expected. + +After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger +ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over +400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of +them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion. +By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans +being victims, while Meares, when told that his nose was 'gone,' +remarked that he was tired of it and that it would thaw out by +and by! + +Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on +such a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on +November 18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The +surface is, if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I +should think about the sort of thing we shall have to expect +henceforward.... It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the +Glacier; meanwhile we get along somehow.' + +During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of +rather bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and +Chinaman began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being +re-christened 'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' +Again Scott began to take a hopeful view of getting through, +unless the surfaces became infinitely worse. + +While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and +his party in Lat. 80° 32', and heard that they had been waiting +for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn. +All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry--an +informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was +ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough +for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision +that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification, +though even with the rations that were to be taken he had no doubt +that hunger would attack the party. + +After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party +on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should +return. + +Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at +Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier. +'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were +to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.' + +Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the +usual march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies +now quite steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor +Party the procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go +forward just ahead of the crocks, the other party following two +or three hours later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the +crocks must have been going very well. However, the fiat had +already gone forth, and this morning (November 24) after the +march poor old Jehu was led back on the track and shot. After our +doubts as to his reaching Hut Point, it is wonderful to think +that he has actually got eight marches beyond our last year limit, +and could have gone more. However, towards the end he was pulling +very little, and on the whole it is merciful to have ended his +life. Chinaman seems to improve and will certainly last a good +many days yet. I feel we ought to get through now. Day and Hooper +leave us to-night.' + +Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much +Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was +at the loss of his pony. + +After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged +and started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and +Lashly, went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then +came Wright with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest +following close behind them. But although the two crocks had +not been given their usual start, they stuck to their work so +gallantly that at the finish they were less than a quarter of +a mile behind. + +At Camp 22, in Lat. 81° 35' the Middle Barrier Depôt was made, and +as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually getting +back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their journey +was struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At the +start the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made such +heavy weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This +threw the ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six +hours were spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first +part of the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The +advance party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in +keeping a course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with +a rise of temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At +this time the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the +man-haulers also found it impossible to steer. The march of 13 +miles was eventually completed, but under the most harassing +circumstances and with very tired animals. + +'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13 +(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can +only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a +glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A +tired animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very +bright now after the day's march.' + +No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the +following day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them, +the driving snow not only preventing them from seeing anything, +but also hitting them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was +shot on this night, but in struggling on until he was within go +miles of the Glacier he had done more than was ever expected of +him; and with only four bags of forage left the end of all the +ponies was very near at hand. + +During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82° 21', 'the most unexpected +and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased, +and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching +the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close +to them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the +29th, 'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies +are tired, but I believe all have five days' work left in them, +and some a great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be +employed, rested and fed well on the homeward track. We could +really get through now with their help and without much delay, +yet every consideration makes it desirable to save the men from +heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly hope the 70 +miles will come in the present order of things.' + +Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both +of them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and +if he stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott +admitted, a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond +of Snippets as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying +when on the march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant +weather with it, but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies, +with the exception of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure. +A recurrence of 'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a +report) was encountered, and the ponies very often sank nearly +to their knees. + +At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of +extreme exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce +that even Nobby had nearly reached the end of his life. On this +night (December 1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility +could he be much regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at +the outset, and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength +had also disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,' +Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.' + +A depôt, called the Southern Barrier Depôt, was left at Camp 27, +so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the other ponies. +'Three more marches ought to carry us through. With the seven +crocks and the dog teams we must get through, I think. The men +alone ought not to have heavy loads on the surface, which is +extremely trying.' + +On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes, +and for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but +then the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless, +in Scott's opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the +thing for ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use +them from the beginning their condition would have been very +different from what it was. + +From Camp 28, Lat. 83°, Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad +weather conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. +last night meant mischief, and all day we marched in falling +snow with a horrible light.... The ponies were sinking deep in +a wretched surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a +roving commission to watch the animals, but he much preferred +to lead one, so I handed over Snippets very willingly and went +on ski myself.' This he found such easy work, that he had time +to take several photographs of the ponies as they plunged through +the snow. But in the afternoon they found a better surface, and +Scott, who was leading, had to travel at a very steady pace to +keep the lead. + +When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel, +and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage +becoming scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor--to the great sorrow +of Bowers, who was very fond of him--had to be shot. Six ponies +remained, and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of +the party reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could +see their way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey +remarked on December 15 that it was the first day for a month on +which he could not record splendid weather. With Scott's party, +however, a fine day had been the exception rather than the rule, +and the journey had been one almost perpetual fight against bad +weather and bad surfaces. + +The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson, +Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and +Crean; (3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. +'We have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger +isn't thought of.' + +At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away +at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather +once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just +a chance that they might be able to march, but while they were +having breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest +wind I have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony +wall was blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts +had collected. In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the +pony walls, but the flanking wall was blown down three times +before the job was completed. About mid-day the weather improved +and soon afterwards the clouds broke and the land appeared; and +when they got away at 2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But +this pleasant state of affairs was only destined to last for one +short hour; after that snow again began to fall, and marching +conditions became supremely horrible. The wind increased from +the S.E., changed to S. W., where for a time it remained, and +then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and afterwards to N.N.W., from +which direction it continued to blow with falling and drifting +snow. But in spite of these rapid and absolutely bewildering +changes of conditions they managed to get 11-1/2 miles south +and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however, camped after +six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a course. 'We +(Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting snow across +our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi under +them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The +whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they +continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly +placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor--we have +had all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly +won under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the +forage is lasting a little better than expected... we should +have no difficulty whatever as regards transport if only the +weather was kind.' On the following day the weather was still in +a bad mood, for no sooner had they got on their gear for the start +than a thick blizzard from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone +started to build fresh walls for the ponies, an uninviting task +enough in a regular white flowing blizzard, but one which added +greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and +bored, but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the +man-haulers came into camp, having been assisted in their course +by the tracks that the other parties had made. + +Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M. +they were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their +credit. During this march the land was quite clearly in view, +and several uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The +mountains were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent +peaks, one or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare +and almost perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded, +boulder-strewn Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We +should reach it easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can +compass 12 miles.... We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two +wretched days, but the disturbed condition of the weather makes +me anxious with regard to the Glacier, where more than anywhere +we shall need fine days. One has a horrid feeling that this is +a real bad season. However, sufficient for the day is the evil +thereof. We are practically through with the first stage of our +journey. Looking from the last Camp (29) towards the S.S.E., +where the farthest land can be seen, it seemed more than probable +that a very high latitude could be reached on the Barrier, and +if Amundsen journeying that way has a stroke of luck, he may +well find his summit journey reduced to 100 miles or so. In any +case it is a fascinating direction for next year's work, if only +fresh transport arrives.' + +On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing +the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had +food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have +gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael' +had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,' +Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having +done so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was +just like a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he +has been a good friend and has a good record, 83° 22' S. He was +a bit done to-day, the blizzard had knocked him.' + +By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to +find a raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had +so constantly bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery +snow which is usually an especial feature of a blizzard, but on +this occasion they got enough and to spare of it. Anyone who +went into the open for a minute or two was covered from head +to foot, and as the temperature was high the snow stuck where +it fell. The heads, tails and legs of the ponies were covered +with ice, and they had to stand deep in snow. The sledges were +almost covered, and there were huge drifts about the tent. It +was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer than he could +help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they retreated +sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small satisfaction +of being able to see from one tent to another was denied them, +and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather could mean +at this time of year, stated emphatically that no party could +possibly travel against such a wind. + +'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance +which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, +or are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? +If the latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small +party struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go +smilingly forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of +luck! No foresight--no procedure--could have prepared us for +this state of affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or +certain of our aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.' + +[Illustration: Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt. (Mt. Hope.)] + +[Illustration: Looking south from Lower Glacier Depôt. (Mt. Hope.)] + +The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest +that Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal. +And to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained +so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow, +with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &c., were +all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles and +door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the +situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough, +however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth +quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under +which it was produced: + + The snow is all melting and everything's afloat, + If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent + upside down and use it as a boat. + +The next day Scott described as 'miserable, utterly miserable. +We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When within twelve +miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel fortune to be +held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature at noon had +risen to 33°, and everything was more soakingly wet than ever, +if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly desolate, +and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls, tents and +sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of marching again +were dashed on the following morning, when the storm continued and +the situation became most serious; after this day only one small +feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either to march +or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not the most +serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could without +doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely was +that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their summit +rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take them on +from the Glacier depôt had been begun. + +In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its +character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an +end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move. +Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an +easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid, +and so nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for +bad weather was ample according to all experience, and this stormy +December--our finest month--is a thing that the most cautious +organizer might not have been prepared to encounter.... There +cannot be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready +to break out again. In the brief spell of hope last night one +heard laughter.' + +Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as +every hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of +their plans, no one can wonder that they chafed over this most +exasperating delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have +been melancholy enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls +of their tents and to hear the everlasting patter of the falling +snow and the ceaseless rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when +the prospect of failure of their cherished plan was added to +the acute discomforts of the situation, it is scarcely possible +to imagine how totally miserable they must have been both in +body and mind. Nevertheless in the midst of these distressing +conditions Scott managed to write, 'But yet, after all, one can +go on striving, endeavoring to find a stimulation in the +difficulties that arise.' + +Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The +snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying +in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such +circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents +and dig out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to +the smallest space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites +being deep pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting +of them at least made things more comfortable, and as the wind +dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed signs +of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow was +falling again. and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely +desperate. + +To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during +the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed +to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees, +and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances +was anything but encouraging. + +Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies +finished, but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite +of the surface, if it comes to-morrow. If it should not, we must +kill the ponies to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men +on ski and the dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on +such a surface. I much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh! +for fine weather, if only to the Glacier.' + +By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last +began really to break. The temperature also helped matters by +falling to +26°, and in consequence the water nuisance began to +abate; and at the prospect of action on the following morning +cheerful sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies +look wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, +yet they are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from +food left in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all +things considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but +nothing can recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned +out two or three times to find the weather slowly improving, and +at 8 o'clock on December 9 they started upon a most terrible +march to Camp 31. + +The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and +the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could be +led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to follow +the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to seem +as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers were +pressed into the service to try and improve matters. + +Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge +and made a track--thus most painfully a mile or so was gained. +Then when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans +saved the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon +Snatcher, who at once began to go on without much pressure, and +was followed by the other ponies. + +No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious +miles they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added +to the difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled +on, and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending +to the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was +a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain +rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott +had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he +would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him. + +By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They +came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was +hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the +pulling heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. +Poor beasts! they have done wonderfully well considering the +terrible circumstances under which they worked.' + +On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all +my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow, +and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food +is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had +all my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we +camped I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses +are now all done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.' + +This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although +the ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance +Scott had expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that +distressing march, were relieved to know that the sufferings +of their plucky animals had at last come to an end. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER + + In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice + To be imprison'd in the viewless winds + And blown with restless violence round about. + --SHAKESPEARE. + +On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized, +and for some days advanced in the following order: + + Sledge 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans. + Sledge 2. E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. + Sledge 3. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with + Meares and Demetri continuing to drive the dogs. + +When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads +could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success +attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was +delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they +got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's +party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised +to find it running fairly easily behind them. The first mile was +gained in about half an hour, but then they began to rise, and +soon afterwards with the slope becoming steeper and the surface +getting worse they had to take off their ski. After this the +pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for they sank above their +finnesko, and in some places nearly up to their knees. + +The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of +ice from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges +themselves sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they +reached the top of the slope, and after tea started on the down +grade. On this they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the +upward slope, but they could just manage to get along on ski. + +Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace +set by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard +some news that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote, +'that Atkinson says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly +is not so fit as he was owing to the heavy pulling since the +blizzard. I have not felt satisfied about this party. The finish +of the march to-day showed clearly that something was wrong.... +True, the surface was awful and growing worse every moment. It +is a very serious business if the men are going to crack up. As +for myself, I never felt fitter and my party can easily hold its +own. P.O. Evans, of course, is a tower of strength, but Oates +and Wilson are doing splendidly also.' + +Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched the snow was +appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks to the +knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to support +the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though under +ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome, on +this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow; +and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half +another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs, +and in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each +sledge-load. + +Before starting from Camp 32 they built a depôt (the Lower Glacier +depôt), made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal of gear +there. Then at the very beginning of their march they got into +big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses. After +four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and then +they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a note +from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might be, +but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This is +only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as well +as of old.' + +The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether +they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party +went away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make +fairly good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft +patch which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the +sledge and hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December +11, at Camp 33, 'to treat such occasions with patience.... The +great thing is to keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more +there were dozens of critical moments when it all but stopped, +and not a few when it brought up altogether. The latter were very +trying and tiring. But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and +we more accustomed to the game, for after a long stop to let the +other parties come up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling +easily without a halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I +was very jubilant; all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but +unfortunately our history was not repeated with the other parties. +Bowers came up half an hour after us. They also had done well at +the last, and I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane +is the only weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily +blind. But Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite +well, but got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by +straining again and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from +bad to worse. Their ski shoes, too, are out of trim.' + +During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth +Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and +then the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards +still further to the west. In consequence they got a much better +view of the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's +party had obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously +were observed. On the first stage of this march Scott's party +was bogged time after time, and do what they could their sledge +dragged like a huge lump of lead. Evans' team had been sent off +in advance and kept well ahead until lunch-time. Then, when Scott +admits being 'pretty well cooked,' the secret of their trouble +was disclosed in a thin film with some hard knots of ice on the +runners of the sledge; these impediments having been removed they +went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile or two resumed their +leading position. As they advanced it became more and more evident +that, with the whole of the lower valley filled with snow from +the storm, they would have been bogged had they been without ski. +'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if pulling on a sledge to +half-way between knee and thigh.' + +Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they +rose, but on the next march the surface became worse instead +of better, the sledges simply plunging into the soft places +and stopping dead. So slow in fact was the progress they made, +that on his sledge Scott decided at lunch to try the 10-foot +runners under the cross-bars, for the sledge was sinking so deeply +that the cross-pieces were on the surface and acting as brakes. +Three hours were spent in securing the runners, and then Scott's +party started and promptly saw what difficulties the other teams +were having. + +In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and +his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them. +But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining +and a high temperature had become very wet and sticky, and again +and again the sledge got one runner on harder snow than the other, +canted on its side, and refused to move. At the top of the rise +Evans' party was reduced to relay work, and shortly afterwards +Bowers was compelled to adopt the same plan. 'We,' Scott says, +'got our whole load through till 7 P.M., camping time, but only +with repeated halts and labor which was altogether too strenuous. +The other parties certainly cannot get a full load along on the +surface, and I much doubt if we could continue to do so, but we +must try again to-morrow. I suppose we have advanced a bare four +miles to-day and the aspect of things is very little changed. Our +height is now about 1,500 feet.' + +On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35, +and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much +easier than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed +without getting along so well, and so Scott, whose party were +having no difficulty with their load, exchanged sledges with +them, and a satisfactory morning's march was followed by still +better work in the afternoon, eleven or twelve miles being gained. +'I think the soft snow trouble is at an end, and I could wish +nothing better than a continuance of the present surface. Towards +the end of the march we were pulling our load with the greatest +ease. It is splendid to be getting along and to find some adequate +return for the work we are putting into the business.' + +At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had reached a height of +about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the surface steadily +improved and the snow covering over the blue ice became thinner +and thinner. During the afternoon they found that at last they +could start their sledges by giving one good heave, and so, for +the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they liked +without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again set +the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard névé were beginning to +show through in places, and had not the day's work been interrupted +by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would have been a really +good one, but, as it was, eleven more miles had to be put to +their credit. The weather looked, however, very threatening as +they turned in for the night, and Scott expressed a fervent hope +that they were not going to be afflicted by snowstorms as they +approached the worst part of the glacier. + +As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface +difficult when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their +work for over ten hours--'the limit of time to be squeezed into +one day'--they covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect +of the glacier. Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had +to take them off in the afternoon because they struck such a +peculiarly difficult surface that the sledges were constantly +being brought up. Then on foot they made better progress, though +no advance could be made without the most strenuous labor. The +brittle crust would hold for a pace or two, and then let them +down with a bump, while now and again a leg went down a crack +in the hard ice underneath. So far, since arriving among the +disturbances, which increased rapidly towards the end of the +march, they had not encountered any very alarming crevasses, +though a large quantity of small ones could be seen. + +At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For +once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof." +Our luck may be on the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of +the hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling +well fed and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except +poor Wilson's; he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his +trouble on our last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very +bad time.... I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will +be mostly due to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now +one feels the cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully +thirsty and chip up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great +deal of water on halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that +is all we want, and we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We +have worn our crampons all day (December 17) and are delighted +with them. P.O. Evans, the inventor of both crampons and ski +shoes, is greatly pleased, and certainly we owe him much.' + +On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day +and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was +accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers +could keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were +crossing it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold. +Still, however, they stuck most splendidly to their task, and +on the following day even a better march was made to Camp 41. + +Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross +cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee +and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface +over which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was +spent over the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs +and sketches were taken, and continuing to make progress in the +second part of the day's march they finished up with a gain of +17 miles. 'It has not been a strain except perhaps for me with +my wounds received early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on +the march, which has in consequence been very much pleasanter.... +Days like this put heart in one.' + +On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the +previous two days were put entirely into the shade by one of +nearly 23 miles, during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the +sledges in crampons was not at all difficult on the hard snow +and on hard ice with patches of snow. At night they camped in +Lat. 84° 59' 6", and then Scott had to perform a task that he +most cordially disliked. 'I have just told off the people to +return to-morrow night: Atkinson, Wright, Cherry-Garrard and +Keohane. All are disappointed--poor Wright rather bitterly, I +fear. I dreaded this necessity of choosing--nothing could be +more heartrending. I calculated our program to start from 85° +10' with twelve units of food [Footnote: A unit of food means a +week's supplies for four men.] and eight men. We ought to be +in this position to-morrow night, less one day's food. After +all our harassing trouble one cannot but be satisfied with such +a prospect.' + +The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident, +was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were +frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they +were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their +tents for nearly three hours. + +During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken +back by the returning party. + +'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on, considering +all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, +otherwise arrangements are working exactly as planned. + +'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best +of them. + +'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail +of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through +to the Pole. + +'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear, +an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region. +Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness +this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man +I get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which +step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one +could only go on. + +'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the +valley out of the fog and away from crevasses. So here we are +practically on the summit and up to date in the provision line. +We ought to get through.' + +After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst +crevasses, and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The +pull up the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until +7.30 P.M. they got off a good march and found a satisfactory +place for their depôt. Fortunately the weather was both calm +and bright, and all the various sorting arrangements that had +to be made before the returning party left them were carried out +under most favorable conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an +immense relief to have the indefatigable little Bowers to see +to all detail arrangements of this sort,' and on the following +day he added, 'we said an affecting farewell to the returning +party, who have taken things very well, dear good fellows as +they are.' + +Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans; +Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their +heavy loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull +them were soon removed. + +'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his +diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and +snowing when we started after making the depôt, and the last we +saw of them as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just +disappearing over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave +ahead of them.' + +Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and +arrived at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for +three months. + +Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some +time during their first march under the new conditions, but they +managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter +every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the +requisite progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next +morning they soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and +pressure, that they were compelled to haul out to the north, and +then to the west. One comfort was that all the time they were +rising. 'It is rather trying having to march so far to the west, +but if we keep rising we must come to the end of the disturbance +some time.' During the second part of this march great changes +of fortune awaited them. At first they started west up a slope, +and on the top another pressure appeared on the left, but less +lofty and more snow-covered than that which had troubled them in +the morning. There was temptation to try this, but Scott resisted +it and turned west up yet another slope, on the top of which they +reached a most extraordinary surface. Narrow crevasses, that were +quite invisible, ran in all directions. All of these crevasses +were covered with a thin crust of hardened névé which had not a +sign of a crack in it. One after another, and sometimes two at +a time, they all fell in; and though they were getting fairly +accustomed to unexpected falls through being unable to mark the +run of the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks +were covered with soft snow, they had never expected to find a +hardened crust formed over a crack, and such a surface was as +puzzling as it was dangerous and troublesome. + +For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow +crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose +crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a +glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave +place to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every +direction. At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about +7,750 feet), 17 miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling +'very cheerful about everything.' 'My determination,' he said, +'to keep mounting irrespective of course is fully justified, and +I shall be indeed surprised if we have any further difficulties +with crevasses or steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal +seems really in sight.' + +On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single +crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and +Scott confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such +disturbances. Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from +crevasses--'very hard, smooth névé between high ridges at the +edge of crevasses, and therefore very difficult to get foothold to +pull the sledges.' To remedy matters they got out their ski sticks, +but this did not prevent several of them from going half-down; +while Lashly, disappearing completely, had to be pulled out by +means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet +deep and 8 feet across, in form U, showing that the word +"unfathomable" can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and +as hard as nails. His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.' + +When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge +a better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch--at which +they had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins--was all the +more enjoyable because 8 miles or so had already been gained. + +In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land, +but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end +of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline +down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped +and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says, +'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The +first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored +with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an +arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding; +then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and +ginger. After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I +couldn't finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept +splendidly and feel thoroughly warm--such is the effect of full +feeding.' + +The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night, +was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15 +miles were covered in the day and the 86th parallel was reached. +Crevasses still appeared, and though they avoided them on this +march, they were not so lucky during the next stage to Camp 49. + +In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several +reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer, +and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids. +Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi +which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team +that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they +found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an +hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled +into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the +party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot +allow one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this +afternoon, one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying +and tiring. I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have +not lost sight of the sun since we came on the summit; we should +get an extraordinary record of sunshine. It is monotonous work +this; the sledgemeter and theodolite govern the situation.' + +During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather' +that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not +improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team +had not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for +P.O. Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time +they discussed the difficulties that the second party was having, +and several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the +team was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad +stepping and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's +party's sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's. + +On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and +his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon, +and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in +soft snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling +the sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the +cause of the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due +to want of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure +has been distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &c. The party +are not done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle +with the trouble and get it right for themselves.' + +Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about +9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which +the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on +two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises +and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were +responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was +one satisfactory result of the march, for now that the second party +had seen to the loading of their sledge they had ceased to lag. + +But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the +conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52, +on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a +day, make a depôt and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party +is certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage +with the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly +much worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10°.) We have caught +up Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could +persuade myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.' + +Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and +the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun +by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work. +Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party. To +build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special record.' + +[Illustration: Man Hauling Camp, 87th parallel.] + +Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they +hoped to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A depôt, +called 'Three Degree Depôt,' consisting of a week's provision for +both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning, with +lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while Scott's +team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate the +New Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole, +prospects seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and +on the next evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans, +Lashly and Crean should go back after one more march. + +Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take +it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a +five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food--practically +over a month's allowance for five people--it ought to see us +through.... Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow; +if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically +safe, I take it.' + +By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January +3, in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87° 32".' A last note from a hopeful +position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine +party going forward and arrangements are all going well.' + +On the next morning the returning men followed a little way +until Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then +farewells were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans, +Crean and Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge +is a mere nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a +quick journey back,' and under average conditions they should +easily have fulfilled anticipations. But a blizzard held them +up for three days before they reached the head of the glacier, +and by the time they reached the foot of it E. Evans had developed +symptoms of scurvy. At One Ton Camp he was unable to stand without +the support of his ski sticks, and although, with the help of his +companions, he struggled on for 53 more miles in four days, he +could go no farther. Rejecting his suggestion that he should be +left alone while they pressed on for help, Crean and Lashly pulled +him on the sledge with a devotion matching that of their captain +years before, when he and Wilson had brought Shackleton, ill and +helpless, safely to the Discovery. + +After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and +then there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not +travel. In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, +34 miles away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most +certainly was the means of keeping him alive until help came. +After a remarkable march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and +as soon as possible Atkinson and Demetri started off with both +dog teams to relieve Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by +persistent bad weather, but on February 22 Evans was got back to +the Discovery hut, where he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson; +and subsequently he was sent by sledge to the Terra Nova. So +ended the tale of the last supporting party, though, as a sequel, +it is good to record that in reward for their gallant conduct +both Lashly and Crean received the Albert Medal. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE SOUTH POLE + + The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep + As our sledge runners slid on the snow, + And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet + Struck mute like a silent blow + On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust + Shrank shivering over the floe. + And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back + Which was lost in a white fog-bow. + + And this was the thought that the Silence wrought, + As it scorched and froze us through, + For the secrets hidden are all forbidden + Till God means man to know. + We might be the men God meant should know + The heart of the Barrier snow, + In the heat of the sun, and the glow, + And the glare from the glistening floe, + As it scorched and froze us through and through + With the bite of the drifting snow. + +(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by +Wilson for the South Polar Times. Characteristically, he sent +them in typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand +and judge them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many +of their readers confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's +own premonition of the event. The version given is the final +form, as it appeared in the South Polar Times.) + +The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the +Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers 28. + +After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally +anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed. +At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything +was most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon +they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose +sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they +camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott +began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely +believe that obstacles will not present themselves to make our +task more difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to +trouble us.' + +And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct, +for a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a +constant fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface +was as bad as it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as +they advanced, and late in the afternoon they encountered a very +rough surface with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily +the sledge showed no signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying +to keep up a rate of a little over a mile and a quarter an hour +was very great. However, they were cheered by the thought, when +they reached Camp 58 (height 10,320 feet), that they were very +close to the 88th parallel, and a little more than 120 miles from +the Pole. + +Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march +on Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they +advanced, and presently they found themselves in the midst of +a sea of fishhook waves, well remembered from their Northern +experience. And, to add to their trouble, each sastrugus was +covered with a beard of sharp branching crystals. They took off +their ski and pulled on foot, but both morning and afternoon the +work of getting the sledge along was tremendous. Writing at Camp +59, Latitude 88° 7', Scott said, 'We think of leaving our ski +here, mainly because of risk of breakage. Over the sastrugi it is +all up and down hill, and the covering of ice crystals prevents +the sledge from gliding even on the downgrade. The sastrugi, +I fear, have come to stay, and we must be prepared for heavy +marching, but in two days I hope to lighten loads with a depôt. +We are south of Shackleton's last camp, so, I suppose, have made +the most southerly camp.' + +During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that +the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the +sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched +a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating +the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion +we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly. +Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the +sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched +coating of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the +shortest they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that +if things remained for long they were, it would be impossible to +keep up the strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however, +loads were to be lightened on the following day by a weight of +about 100 lbs., and there was also hope of a better surface if +only the crystal deposit would either harden up or disappear. +Their food, too, was proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on +such an excellent ration. We really are an excellently found +party.' Indeed, apart from the strain of pulling, Scott's only +anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was that Evans had a nasty cut +on his hand. + +They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard; +but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because +he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance +of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable +bags within their double-walled tent would do none of them any +harm. But, both on account of lost time and food and the slow +accumulation of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay. + +'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting, +'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office +to the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to +alleviate the small pains and troubles incidental to the work; +now as cook, quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some +fresh expedient to help the camp life; tough as steel on the +traces, never wavering from start to finish. + +'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It is +only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes and +crampons have been absolutely indispensable, and if the original +ideas were not his, the details of manufacture and design and +the good workmanship are his alone. He is responsible for every +sledge, every sledge fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and +when one cannot recall a single expression of dissatisfaction +with anyone of these items, it shows what an invaluable assistant +he has been. Now, besides superintending the putting up of the +tent, he thinks out and arranges the packing of the sledge; it +is extraordinary how neatly and handily everything is stowed, +and how much study has been given to preserving the suppleness +and good running qualities of the machine. On the Barrier, before +the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round, correcting +faults of stowage. + +'Little Bowers remains a marvel--he is thoroughly enjoying himself. +I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and at all +times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning party +should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute +stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single +mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the +most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to +this he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing +comes amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty +to get him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold, +and he lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long +after the others are asleep. + +'Of these three it is a matter for thought and congratulation +that each is specially suited for his own work, but would not +be capable of doing that of the others as well as it is done. +Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period with the +ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole time, +does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as well +as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So our +five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible +to imagine.' + +Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp, +the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface +good. So that they might keep up the average length of their +daily marches Scott wanted to leave a depôt, but as the blizzard +tended to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident +that to leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding. +However, after a terribly hard march on the following morning, +they decided to leave a depôt at the lunch camp, and there they +built a cairn and left one week's food with as many articles of +clothing as they could possibly spare. + +Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface +that was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow, +and, when the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the +slowest pace was distressingly difficult. On that night from +Camp 62, Scott wrote, 'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but +it's going to be a stiff pull both ways apparently; still we +do make progress, which is something.... It is very difficult +to imagine what is happening to the weather.... The clouds don't +seem to come from anywhere, form and disperse without visible +reason.... The meteorological conditions seem to point to an +area of variable light winds, and that plot will thicken as we +advance.' + +From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling +was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad +as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and +the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they +had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves, +and although when they camped for the night they were only about +74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could +possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes +it out of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work +before.... Our chance still holds good if we can put the work +in, but it's a terribly trying time.' + +For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the +almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily. +The experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for +Scott had begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly +weakening, and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted +a good surface to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were +within 63 miles of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface +to help them on their way. + +But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do +his work with characteristic thoroughness and imperturbability; +and after this appalling march he insisted, in spite of Scott's +protest, on taking sights after they had camped--an all the more +remarkable display of energy as he, being the only one of the +party who pulled on foot, had spent an even more strenuous day +than the others, who had been 'comparatively restful on ski.' + +Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might +to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and +straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did +manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which +is very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski, +though Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without +tiring his short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at +Camp 66 and less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the +great difficulty on this march, because a light southerly wind +with very low drift often prevented Scott from seeing anything, +and Bowers, in Scott's shadow, gave directions. By this time +the feet of the whole party were beginning, mainly owing to the +bad condition of their finnesko, to suffer from the cold. 'Oates +seems to be feeling the cold and fatigue more than the rest of +us, but we are all very fit. It is a critical time, but we ought +to pull through.... Oh! for a few fine days! So close it seems +and only the weather to balk us.' + +Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they +were all 'pretty well done' when they camped for lunch. There they +decided to leave their last depôt, but although their reduced load +was now very light, Scott feared that the friction would not be +greatly reduced. A pleasant surprise, however, was in store for +him, as after lunch the sledge ran very lightly, and a capital +march was made. 'It is wonderful,' he wrote on that night (January +15), 'to think that two long marches would land us at the Pole. We +left our depôt to-day with nine days' provisions, so that it ought +to be a certain thing now, and the only appalling possibility +the sight of the Norwegian flag forestalling ours. Little Bowers +continues his indefatigable efforts to get good sights, and it +is wonderful how he works them up in his sleeping-bag in our +congested tent. Only 27 miles from the Pole. We ought to do it +now.' + +The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their +noon sight showed them in Lat. 89° 42' S.; and feeling that the +following day would see them at the Pole they started off after +lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour +or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn, +but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a +sastrugus. + +'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we +knew that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched +on, found that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near +by the remains of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and +coming and the clear trace of dogs' paws--many dogs. This told +us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us and are +first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and I am +very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and much +discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the Pole +and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All the +day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly +also the Norwegians found an easy way up.' + +Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of +this discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning +(January 17) head winds with a temperature of -22° added to their +depression of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian +tracks, and in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then, +as the tracks became increasingly drifted up and were obviously +leading them too far to the west, they decided to make straight +for the Pole according to their calculations. During the march +they covered about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his +journal, 'The Pole. Yes, but under very different circumstances +from those expected.' + +That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent +to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they +found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the +purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not +claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in +estimating the honors that belong to them. + +[Illustration: The party at the South Pole. (Capt. Oates; Capt. +Scott; P.O. Evans; Lieut. Bowers; Dr. Wilson.)] + +'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and +the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home +and a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.' + +On the following morning after summing up all their observations, +they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the +Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction, +more or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two +miles from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found +a record of five Norwegians having been there: + + 'Roald Amundsen + Olav Olavson Bjaaland + Hilmer Hanssen + Sverre H. Hassel + Oscar Wisting. + --16 Dec. 1911. + +'The tent is fine--a small compact affair supported by a single +bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward +a letter to King Haakon!' + +In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags +of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and +sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian +artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point +thermometers, a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left +a note to say I had visited the tent with companions. Bowers +photographing and Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched +6.2 miles S.S.E. by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch +gave us 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the +Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch -21°.) We built a cairn, put up our poor +slighted Union Jack, and photographed ourselves--mighty cold +work all of it--less than 1/2 a mile south we saw stuck up an +old underrunner of a sledge. This we commandeered as a yard for +a floorcloth sail. I imagine it was intended to mark the exact +spot of the Pole as near as the Norwegians could fix it. (Height +9,500.) A note attached talked of the tent as being 2 miles +from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. There is no doubt that +our predecessors have made thoroughly sure of their mark and +fully carried out their program. I think the Pole is about 9,500 +feet in height; this is remarkable, considering that in Lat. 88° +we were about 10,500. + +'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and +left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy +the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on +the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz. +Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our +ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging--and +good-bye to most of the day-dreams!' + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY + + It matters not how strait the gate, + How charged with punishments the scroll; + I am the master of my fate, + I am the Captain of my soul. + --HENLEY. + +During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole +7 miles behind them, and early in the march on the following +morning picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn. +These tracks they followed until they came to the black flag +that had been the first means of telling them of the Norwegians' +success. 'We have picked this flag up, using the staff for our +sail, and are now camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our +tracks. So that is the last of the Norwegians for the present.' + +In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals +they marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found +the cairns that they had built; but until they reached Three +Degree Depôt which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott +said, could not be laid to rest. + +On the next day they reached their Southern Depôt and picked +up four days' food. With the wind behind them and with full sail +they went along at a splendid rate in the afternoon, until they +were pulled up by a surface on which drifting snow was lying +in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the ski, pulling +became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad when Bowers +gets his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3, [Footnote: A number preceded +by R. marks the camps on the return journey.] 'I'm afraid he +must find these long marches very trying with short legs, but +he is an undefeated little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling +the cold and fatigue more than most of us. It is blowing pretty +hard to-night, but with a good march we have earned one good +hoosh and are very comfortable in the tent. It is everything +now to keep up a good marching pace; I trust we shall be able +to do so and catch the ship. Total march, 18-1/2 miles.' + +A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning, +but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for +a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand +and 45 miles between them and their next depôt, where they had +left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three Degree +Depôt. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought to have a day +or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty with following +the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight for our watches +to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks at a pinch.' + +January 22 brought an added worry in the fact that the ski boots +were beginning to show signs of wear, but this was nothing compared +with the anxiety Scott began to feel about Evans on the following +day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a good deal run down--his +fingers are badly blistered and his nose is rather seriously +congested with frequent frost-bites. He is very much annoyed with +himself, which is not a good sign. I think Wilson, Bowers and I +are as fit as possible under the circumstances. Oates gets cold +feet.... We are only about 13 miles from our "Degree and half" +Depôt and should get there tomorrow. The weather seems to be +breaking up. Pray God we have something of a track to follow to +the Three Degree Depôt--once we pick that up we ought to be right.' + +Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so, +though only seven miles from their depôt, they were obliged to +camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect +of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey +in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from +frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from +bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach +the Half Degree Depôt, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision to +carry them the next 89 miles. + +During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely +wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile +intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first +far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of +the second which was far on their left. 'There is not a sign of +our tracks between these cairns, but the last, marking our night +camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in the belt of hard sastrugi, and I +was comforted to see signs of the track reappearing as we camped. +I hope to goodness we can follow it to-morrow.' + +Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these +hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on +ski, the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow +the track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the +best could only just be seen. + +On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been +compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the +difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by +hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and +during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy +and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march +they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the +air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose +the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand, +they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch, +was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags, +although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly +but steadily getting wetter. + +On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles from their +depôt with six days food in hand, after doing a good march of +16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds we shall get +our depôt without trouble. I shall indeed be glad to get it on +the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is no doubt. The +lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are pretty thin, +especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked out. I doubt +if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going with our +light one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall be glad +to open out on it. + +With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding +the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday +their position had its serious as well as its bright side, for +Wilson strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given +pain all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of +pluck over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident +here. To add to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails +to-night; his hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows +signs of losing heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the +accident.... We can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be] +a mighty serious thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.' + +Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three +Degree Depôt, and were able slightly to increase their rations, +though not until they reached the pony food depôt could they +look for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface, +owing to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson walking +by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling was +even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they +picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The +last thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we +have only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.' + +Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn, +which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper +Glacier Depôt. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that they +would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance was +having a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was better. +On the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable anxiety. + +All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2 +until Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same +time on a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his +shoulder. 'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person +added to our tent--three out of five injured, and the most +troublesome surfaces to come. We shall be lucky if we get through +without serious injury.... The extra food is certainly helping +us, but we are getting pretty hungry.... It is time we were off +the summit--Pray God another four days will see us pretty well +clear of it. Our bags are getting very wet and we ought to have +more sleep.' + +On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so of +the Upper Glacier Depôt under Mount Darwin, and after exasperating +delays in searching for tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste +no more time, but to push due north just as fast as they could. +Evans' fingers were still very bad, and there was little hope that +he would be able for some time to help properly with the work, and +on the following day an accident that entailed the most serious +consequences happened. + +'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell +into crevasses, Evans and I together--a second fall for Evans, +[Footnote: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans +injured his brain by one of these falls.] and I camped. After +lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on ski over hard shiny +descending surface. Did very well, especially towards end of +march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not improving in +condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather dull and +incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal, but we +get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of energy +and bustle all the time.' + +On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made, +but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them. +Huge pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred +their way, and so they had to steer more and more to the west on +a very erratic course. Camping-time found them still in a very +disturbed region, and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of +their depôt there seemed to be no way through the disturbances +that continued to block their path. On turning out to continue +their march they went straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at +once found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these +they turned northwards between two of them, with the result that +they got into chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled +to retrace their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the +west they got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of +which they camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended +them in the afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated +that they were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier +Depôt. 'Food is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that +many hours of the day were anxious; but this evening (February +6), though we are not so far advanced as I expected, the outlook +is much more promising. Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts +and wounds suppurate, his nose looks very bad, and altogether he +shows considerable signs of being played out. Things may mend +for him on the Glacier, and his wounds get some respite under +warmer conditions. I am indeed glad to think we shall so soon +have done with plateau conditions. It took us 27 days to reach +the Pole and 21 days back--in all 48 days--nearly 7 weeks in +low temperature with almost incessant wind.' + +February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey, +opened with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces +covered with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress +during the day, and between six and seven o'clock their depôt was +sighted and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,' +Scott wrote at R. 21, 'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp +journey and most of us are fit, but I think another week might +have had a very bad effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily +downhill.' + +On the next morning they started late owing to various +re-arrangements having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin +to get specimens. As Wilson was still unable to use his ski, +Bowers went on and got several specimens of much the same type--a +close-grained granite rock which weathers red; and as soon as +Bowers had rejoined the party they skidded downhill fairly fast, +Scott and Bowers (the leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on +foot alongside the sledge, while Evans was detached. + +By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided +to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some +very irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down +towards the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so +interesting that, after an advance of some miles had brought +escape from the wind, the decision was made to camp and spend +the rest of the day in geologising. + +It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under +perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly +and carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with +his sharp eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last +a piece of coal with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also +some excellently preserved impressions of thick stems, showing +cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small waves +in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone with +archeo-cyathus--the trouble is one cannot imagine where the stone +comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur in the +moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether +we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being +out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I +hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions +are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of +setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly +7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a +sea voyage.' + +On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine +to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson +had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone. +The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the +Beardmore Glacier, and the labor endured in dragging the additional +35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay; +but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it. +The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous +that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved +to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to +solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this +portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult +day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for being too +tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter had +been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed. +'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food +satisfies now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and +we want rest, yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are +by no means worn out.' + +On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep +that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great +change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress, +however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow, +which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We +have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening, +'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within +two outward marches from the middle glacier depôt. However, if +the weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march +blindly on or reduce food.' + +The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the +surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until, +with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found +themselves in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to +steer east, and after struggling on for several hours found +themselves in a regular trap. Having for a short time in the +earlier part of the day got on to a good surface, they thought +that all was going well and did not reduce their lunch rations. +But half an hour after lunch they suddenly got into a terrible +ice mess. + +For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that +they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left; +meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were +moments when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the +awful turmoil in which they found themselves. At length, arguing +that there must be a way out on the left, they plunged in that +direction, only to find that the surface was more icy and +crevassed. + +'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into +crevasses every minute--most luckily no bad accident. At length +we saw a smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but +knew it was a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in +character, irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, +closely packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy +work, but we had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and +I write after 12 hours on the march. I think we are on or about +the right track now, but we are still a good number of miles from +the depôt, so we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican +meals left and decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch +must serve for two if we do not make big progress. It was a test +of our endurance on the march and our fitness with small supper. +We have come through well.' + +On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well +in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two +hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night +camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their depôt), +for this showed them that they were still on the right track. +In the afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently +expecting to reach their depôt, but by a most unfortunate chance +they kept too far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses +and fissures. Afterwards their course became very erratic, and +finally, at 9 P.M., they landed in the worst place of all. + +'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a +very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; +the depôt doubtful in locality. We must get there to-morrow. +Meanwhile we are cheerful with an effort.' + +On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept +well in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by +his visits outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over +and snow beginning to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting +up the weather was so thick that they had to remain in their +sleeping-bags; but presently the weather cleared enough for Scott +dimly to see the land of the Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after +breakfasting off some tea and one biscuit, so that they might +leave their scanty remaining meal for even greater emergencies, +they started to march through an awful turmoil of broken ice. In +about an hour, however, they hit upon an old moraine track where +the surface was much smoother, though the fog that was still +hanging over everything added to their difficulties. Presently +Evans raised their hopes with a shout of depôt ahead, but it +proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson +suddenly saw the actual depôt flag. 'It was an immense relief, +and we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief +to all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a +meal.' + +Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and +closed the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where +Wilson detached himself and made a collection, while the others +advanced with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February +13) at 'Camp R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped +late, abreast the lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our +usual satisfying supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of +the trip and gave a horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are +right, but we must march. In future food must be worked so that +we do not run so short if the weather fails us. We mustn't get +into a hole like this again.... Bowers has had a very bad attack +of snow-blindness, and Wilson another almost as bad. Evans has +no power to assist with camping work.' + +A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days' +food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Depôt. +On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned +about the condition of the party, and especially about Evans, +who seemed to be going from bad to worse. And on the next evening, +after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't know our distance from +the depôt, but imagine about 20 miles. We are pulling for food +and not very strong evidently.... We have reduced food, also sleep; +feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days or 2 at most will see us +at depôt.' + +Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their depôt, +and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety +about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly +broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from +his normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he +stopped the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold +the events of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. +Perhaps all will be well if we can get to our depôt to-morrow +fairly early, but it is anxious work with the sick man.' + +On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a +little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did, +that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in +his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had +to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft +snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners +at every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the +land hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up +again, but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again +on the same plea, and asked Bowers to lend him a piece of string. +Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly as he could, and he +gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then the others were +compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument Rock they halted +and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to camp for lunch. + +At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch +and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and +all four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to +meet the poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and +frost-bitten and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was +the matter, he replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought +that he must have fainted. + +They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps +he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse. +Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while +Oates remained with him. + +'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we +got him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.' + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE LAST MARCH + + Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion + through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who, + over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed + difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction, + arrogance or dishonor to the victory proposed, or to the higher + glory of unshaken defeat. + --R. KIPLING. + +After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on +later in the night, and arrived at their depôt; there they allowed +themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles Camp, +which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty of +horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come if +they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come with +greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the Barrier +surfaces.' + +A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had +to be done in shifting sledges [Footnote: Sledges were left at +the chief depôts to replace damaged ones.] and fitting up the +new one with a mast, &c., and in packing horse meat and personal +effects. Soon after noon, however, they got away, and found the +surface every bit as bad as they expected. Moreover Scott's fears +that there would not be much change during the next few days +were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday afternoon they +had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled desert +sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following day, +when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached +Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony +meat, but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,' +Scott wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily +followed this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope +for better things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better +traveling as we are not so fit as we were, and the season is +advancing apace.' + +Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and +once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away +from the land the conditions might get better; and that this +improvement should come and come soon was all the more necessary +because they were approaching a critical part of their journey, +in which there were long distances between the cairns. 'If we +can tide that over we get on the regular cairn route, and with +luck should stick to it; but everything depends on the weather. +We never won a march of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but +we can't go on like this.' + +Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so +completely wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow +during the next stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time +came without a sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later +in the day Bowers, feeling sure that they were too far to the +west, steered out, with the result that another pony camp was +passed by unseen. 'There is little doubt we are in for a rotten +critical time going home, and the lateness of the season may +make it really serious.... Looking at the map to-night there is +no doubt we are too far to the east. With clear weather we ought +to be able to correct the mistake, but will the weather clear? +It's a gloomy position, more especially as one sees the same +difficulty recurring even when we have corrected this error. The +wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in the south, +which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note that such +untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.' + +The hopes of better weather were realized during the following +day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind. +Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers +took a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came +to the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside +the tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them +were happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out. +Then, just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully +sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite +telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles +of their depôt. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather, we +cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved.... +Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of +cairns, with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of +Saturday, February 24, the depôt was reached, and there they +found the store in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall +have to be very saving with fuel.' + +[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in +want of more oil than they found at the depôts. Owing partly to +the severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by +their sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed +for between the depôts. The cold was unexpected, and at the same +time the actual amount of oil found at the depôts was less than +Scott anticipated. + +The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for +the party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days +on the outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree +to Upper Glacier Depôt, took nearly eight marches as against ten, +and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans +and Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the +Lower Glacier Depôt there was little gain on the outward journey, +partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual +collapse. And from that time onward the marches of the weary but +heroic travelers became shorter and shorter. + +As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the +depôts had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. +The oil in the warmth of the sun--for the tins were regularly +set in an accessible place on the top of the cairns--tended to +become vapor and to escape through the stoppers without damage +to the tins. This process was much hastened owing to the leather +washers about the stoppers having perished in the great cold. + +The tins awaiting the Southern party at the depôts had, of course, +been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way back +could take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were +re-stoppered, they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation +and leakage, and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the +shortage which was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.] + +Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at +the depôt, and with ten full days' provisions from the night +of the 24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the +Mid-Barrier depôt. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful +tone, 'It is an immense relief to have picked up this depôt, +and, for the time, anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night, +after pulling on a dreadful surface and only gaining four miles, +he added, 'It really will be a bad business if we are to have +this plodding all through. I don't know what to think, but the +rapid closing of the season is ominous.... It is a race between +the season and hard conditions and our fitness and good food.' + +Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the +following day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The +first double figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But +what they wanted and what would not come was a wind to help them +on their way. Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely +needed was still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on +their next march, and were within 43 miles of their next depôt. +Writing from 'R. 40. Temp. -21°' on Monday night, February 26, +Scott said, 'Wonderfully fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing +dries and we get our feet cold too often. We want more food yet, +and especially more fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely +hope to get a better surface at this season, but I wish we could +have some help from the wind, though it might shake us up badly +if the temp. didn't rise.' + +Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their depôt, but hunger +was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else +except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the +dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety +at next depôt, but there is a horrid element of doubt.' + +On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at +R. 42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a +blightingly cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The +temperatures, however, which varied at this time between -30° +and -42°, were chilling them through and through, and to get +their foot-gear on in the mornings was both a painful and a long +task. 'Frightfully cold starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time +on Thursday, February 29, 'luckily Bowers and Oates in their +last new finnesko; keeping my old ones for the present.... Next +camp is our depôt and it is exactly 13 miles. It ought not to +take more than 1-1/2 days; we pray for another fine one. The +oil will just about spin out in that event, and we arrive a clear +day's food in hand.' + +On reaching the Middle Barrier Depôt, however, blow followed +blow in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began +to sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First +they found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy +it could scarcely carry them on to their next depôt, 71 miles +away. Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently +frost-bitten by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed. +And lastly the wind, which at first they had greeted with some +joy, brought dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the +temperature fell to below -40°, and on the next morning an hour +and a half was spent before they could get on their foot-gear. +'Then on an appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks, +and at lunch Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer +street since there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches +and feel the cold horribly.' + +Afterwards they managed to pick up the track again, and with +a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects brightened a +little; but on the next morning they had to labor upon a surface +that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals, which were +too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused impossible +friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,' Scott wrote +at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is certain. +Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what each man +feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear in the +morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day more +dangerous.' + +No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday, +March 4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except +a strong drying wind, which at that time of the year was not +likely to come. At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the +next depôt and had a week's food; but in spite of the utmost +economy their oil could only last three or four days, and to +pull as they were doing and be short of food at the same time +was an absolute impossibility. For the time being the temperature +had risen to -20°, but Scott was sure that this small improvement +was only temporary and feared that Oates, at any rate, was in +no state to weather more severe cold than they were enduring. +And hanging over all the other misfortunes was the constant fear +that if they did get to the next depôt they might find the same +shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I should do if Wilson and +Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful over things.' + +And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic +to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed +such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March +4) consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid +with the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,' +Scott says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable +resolution it is contained in that short sentence. The result, +however, was telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially +upon Oates, whose feet were in a terrible condition when they +started to march on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them +within 27 miles of their next supply of food and fuel, but by +this time poor Oates was almost done. + +'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more +hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none +of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest +of us Wilson is feeling. them most; mainly, I fear, from his +self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot +help each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself. +We get cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the +wind pierces our worn garments. The others, all of them, are +unendingly cheerful when in the tent. We mean to see the game +through with a proper spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling +harder than we ever pulled in our lives for long hours, and to +feel that the progress is so slow. One can only say "God help +us!" and plod on our weary way, cold and very miserable, though +outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts of subjects in the tent, +not much of food now, since we decided to take the risk of running +a full ration. We simply couldn't go hungry at this time.' + +On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and +the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate +work, were only three and a half, and the total distance for +the day was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis +was near at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only +come up in spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent.... +If we were all fit I should have hopes of getting through, but +the poor Soldier has become a terrible hindrance, though he does +his utmost and suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th, +Scott added, 'A little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet very +bad this morning; he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what +we will do together at home.' + +At this time they were 16 miles from their depôt, and if they +found the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the +surface helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the +Mt. Hooper Depôt, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp. +'We hope against hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper; +then we might pull through.... We are only kept going by good +food. No wind this morning till a chill northerly air came ahead. +Sun bright and cairns showing up well. I should like to keep +the track to the end.' + +Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time on the 8th to +within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time spent over +foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer. 'Have to +wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start changing, +and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet giving +trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help to +others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the depôt? +If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good distance, but +if there is another short allowance of fuel, God help us indeed. +We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.' + +On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper +Depôt. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round. I don't +know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have been our +salvation have evidently failed.' + +[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting +with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return +to Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and +calculating from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson +expected him to reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There +Cherry-Garrard met four days of blizzard, with the result that +when the weather cleared he had little more than enough dog food +to take the teams home. Under these circumstances only two possible +courses were open to him, either to push south for one more march +and back with imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to +stay two days at the Camp where Scott was bound to come, if he +came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at One +Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.] + +With the depôt reached and no relief to the situation gained, +Scott was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily +downhill,' but for the time being Oates' condition was by far the +most absorbing trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th. +'He has rare pluck and must know that he can never get through. +He asked Wilson if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill +had to say he didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart +from him, if he went under now, I doubt whether we could get +through. With great care we might have a dog's chance, but no +more.... Poor chap! it is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot +but try to cheer him up.' + +On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for +half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face +such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following +morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast +that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks. +At the most they gained little more than six miles during the +day, and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if +they got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and +should be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42, +leaving us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get +no worse.' + +Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or +he will do, God only knows. We discussed the matter after breakfast; +he is a brave fine fellow and understands the situation, but he +practically asked for advice. Nothing could be said but to urge +him to march as long as he could. One satisfactory result to the +discussion: I practically ordered Wilson to hand over the means +of ending our troubles to us, so that any of us may know how to +do so. Wilson had no choice between doing so and our ransacking +the medicine case.' + +Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and +more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them +altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they +started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through +their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold, +could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made +camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly +cold.... We must go on, but now the making of every camp must +be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, but a +pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be like +to-morrow.' + +Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once +spared himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing +could be more pathetic and significant than the fact that at +last he was unable any longer to keep a daily record of this +magnificent journey. + +'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think +the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most +unendurable conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable +tribute to his dead companion. + +'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday, +poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should +leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced +him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful +nature for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night +he was worse and we knew the end had come. + +'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last +thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride +in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold +way in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. +He has borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and +to the very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. +He did not--would not--give up hope till the very end. He was a +brave soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before +last, hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning--yesterday. +It was blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and +may be some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not +seen him since. + +'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick +companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely +out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder +seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully +removed him at this critical moment. He died a natural death, +and we did not leave him till two hours after his death. + +'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though +we tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man +and an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a +similar spirit, and assuredly the end is not far. + +'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold +is intense, -40° at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful, +but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we +constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us +believes it in his heart. + +'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. +Yesterday we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move +dreadfully slowly. We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony +marches from One Ton Depôt. We leave here our theodolite, a camera, +and Oates' sleeping-bags. Diaries, etc., and geological specimens +carried at Wilson's special request, will be found with us or +on our sledge.' + +At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within +21 miles of One Ton Depôt, but wind and drift came on and they had +to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and we are worn +out nearly. + +'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes--two days ago I +was the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of my +downfall. Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with +my melted pemmican--it gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake +and in pain all night; woke and felt done on the march; foot +went and I didn't know it. A very small measure of neglect and +have a foot which is not pleasant to contemplate. + +'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much +to choose after all. The others are still confident of getting +through--or pretend to be--I don't know! We have the last half +fill of oil in our primus and a very small quantity of spirit--this +alone between us and thirst.' + +On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but +after a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin +of cocoa, they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough +to get some sleep. + +Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against +persistent misfortune. + +'March 19.--Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging manner. +Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the depôt and +ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two days' +food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting bad--Wilson's +best, my right foot worst, left all right. There is no chance to +nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us. Amputation is +the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble spread? That +is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us a chance; the +wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day. + +[Illustration: Final entry of R. Scott's diary.] + +During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton +Depôt, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday +a severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott +wrote: 'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depôt +for fuel.' + +But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23. +Blizzard bad as ever--Wilson and Bowers unable to start--to-morrow +last chance--no fuel and only one or two of food left--must be +near the end. Have decided it shall be natural--we shall march +for the depôt with or without our effects and die in our tracks.' + +'March 29.--Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale from +W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece, and +bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been ready +to start for our depôt 11 miles away, but outside the door of +the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do not think +we can hope for any better things now. We shall stick it out to +the end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot +be far. + +'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more. + + 'R. SCOTT. + +'Last entry +For God's sake look after our people.' + + * * * * * + +After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on +March 16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson +and Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When, +however, this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to +be done until the winter was over. + +During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party +devolved upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances +showed qualities that are beyond all praise. At the earliest +possible moment (October 30) a large party started south. 'On +the night of the 11th and morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says, +'after we had marched 11 miles due south of One Ton, we found +the tent. It was an object partially snowed up and looking like +a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks and in front of them a +bamboo which probably was the mast of the sledge... + +'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson, +and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it +had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.' + +Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their +sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally +close them. + +[Illustration: 'The Last Rest'. The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr. +Wilson, and Lieut. Bowers.] + +Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag +and opened his coat. The little wallet containing the three +notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm flung across Wilson. + +Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological +specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore +Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the very +end, though disaster stared them in the face. + +'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the +outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well +into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.' + +Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed, +and on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in +the snow. Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was +placed, containing a metal cylinder, and in this the following +record was left: + +'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross +and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O., +R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant +H. R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine--a slight token to perpetuate +their successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This +they did on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition +had already done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was +the cause of their death. Also to commemorate their two gallant +comrades, Captain L. E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons, +who walked to his death in a blizzard to save his comrades about +eighteen miles south of this position; also of Seaman Edgar Evans, +who died at the foot of the Beardmore Glacier. + +'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away; +blessed be the name of the Lord."' + + * * * * * + +With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:-- + + +To Mrs. E. A. Wilson + +My DEAR MRS. WILSON, + +If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together. +We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid +he was at the end--everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice +himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him +into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor +discomforts. + +His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is +peaceful with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself +as part of the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to +comfort you than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, +true man--the best of comrades and staunchest of friends. My whole +heart goes out to you in pity. + + Yours, + R. SCOTT. + + +To Mrs. Bowers + +My DEAR MRS. BOWERS, + +I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows +of your life. + +I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am +finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of +these is your son. He had come be one of my closest and soundest +friends, and I appreciate his wonderful upright nature, his ability +and energy. As the troubles have thickened his dauntless spirit +ever shone brighter and he has remained cheerful, hopeful, and +indomitable to the end. + +The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some +reason why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken. + +My whole heart goes out in pity for you. + + Yours, + R. SCOTT. + +To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what +a happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look +back on nothing but happiness. + +He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the +end, believing in God's mercy to you. + + +To Sir J. M. Barrie + +My DEAR BARRIE, + +We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter +may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell.... +More practically I want you to help my widow and my boy--your +godson. We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold +spirit, fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have +accomplished our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have +done everything possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to +save sick companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen +of the future, and that the country ought to help those who are +left behind to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson, +Wilson leaves a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble +circumstances. Do what you can to get their claims recognized. +Goodbye. I am not at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many +a humble pleasure which I had planned for the future on our long +marches. I may not have proved a great explorer, but we have done +the greatest march ever made and come very near to great success. +Goodbye, my dear friend. + + Yours ever, + R. SCOTT. + +We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long +way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent, +to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will +do when we get to Hut Point. + +Later.--We are very near the end, but have not and will not lose +our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our tent and no +where's food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves when +things proved like this, but we have decided to die naturally +in the track. + +As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. +Give the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought +to have good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom +I admired and loved more than you, but I never could show you +how much your friendship meant to me, for you had much to give +and I nothing. + + +To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart. + +Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5°. + +My DEAR SIR EDGAR, + +I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves +the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and +we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave +behind. + +I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your +generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we +stuck by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the +end. I think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power +to endure has not passed out of our race.... + +Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself +again and again to the sick men of the party.... + +I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some +time after we are found next year. + +We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it, +but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is +to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we +have lacked support. + +Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife. + + Yours ever sincerely, + R. SCOTT. + + +To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B. + +My DEAR SIR FRANCIS, + +I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few +letters which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank +you for the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you +how extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I +want to tell you that I was not too old for this job. It was the +younger men that went under first.... After all we are setting a +good example to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight +place, by facing it like men when we were there. We could have +come through had we neglected the sick. + +Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman. + + Yours ever, + R. SCOTT. + +Excuse writing--it is -40°; and has been for nigh a month. + + +To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B. + +My DEAR SIR GEORGE, + +I fear we have shot our bolt--but we have been to Pole and done +the longest journey on record. + +I hope these letters may find their destination some day. + +Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness +of different members of the party, but the real thing that has +stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected cold towards the +end of the journey. + +This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe +as any experience we had on the summit. + +There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my +calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the +base and petering out. + +Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty +is concerned. + + R. SCOTT. + +My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your +kindness. + + +To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch. + +March 24th, 1912. + +My DEAR KINSEY, + +I'm afraid we are pretty well done--four days of blizzard just +as we were getting to the last dopôt. My thoughts have been with +you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition +through, I'm sure. + +My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can +for them if the country won't. + +I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know +the circumstances well enough. + +If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have +little to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country +need not be ashamed of us--our journey has been the biggest on +record, and nothing but the most exceptional hard luck at the +end would have caused us to fail to return. We have been to the +S. pole as we set out. God bless you and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is +good to remember you and your kindness. + + Your friend, + R. SCOTT. + + +Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William +Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs. +Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following +extracts: + +The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow +to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort +in that I die at peace with the world and myself--not afraid. + +Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks +I have taken never seemed excessive. + +...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a +narrow margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a +journey.... After all, we have given our lives for our country--we +have actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been +the first Englishmen at the South Pole. + +You must understand that it is too cold to write much. + +...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail +of equipment is right. + +I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh +from harness and full of good health and vigor. This is decided +already--when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless +we are within easy distance of another depôt. Therefore you must +not imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course, and +have been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and our +appetites compensate for all discomfort. + +Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depôt, +with one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got +through but have been held for four days by a frightful storm. +I think the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill +ourselves, but to fight to the last for that depôt, but in the +fighting there is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable +must be faced. You urged me to be leader of this party, and I +know you felt it would be dangerous. + +Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is +better than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know +you will keep him in the open air. + +Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence. +Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous +as you know--had always an inclination to be idle. + +There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole +in my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and +other trifles. Send a small piece of the Union Jack to the King +and a small piece to Queen Alexandra. + +What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much +better has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. +What tales you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay. + +Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his +putting me in command of the Discovery. + + + + +MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC + +The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization, +but to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken. + +1. The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start + later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff + transported to be narrowed. + +2. The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially + the long gale in 83° S., stopped us. + +3. The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace. + +We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but +it cut into our provision reserve. + +Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depôts made on +the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles +to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party +would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus +of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had +least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man +of the party. + +The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on +our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this +with a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties. + +As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and +Edgar Evans received a concussion of the brain--he died a natural +death, but left us a shaken party with the season unduly advanced. + +But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise +which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements +for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world +would have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we +encountered at this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85°, +86° we had -20°, -30°. On the Barrier in lat. 82°, 10,000 feet +lower, we had -30° in the day, -47° at night pretty regularly, +with continuous head wind during our day marches. It is clear +that these circumstances come on very suddenly, and our wreck +is certainly due to this sudden advent of severe weather, which +does not seem to have any satisfactory cause. I do not think +human beings ever came through such a month as we have come through, +and we should have got through in spite of the weather but for +the sickening of a second companion, Captain Oates, and a shortage +of fuel in our depôts for which I cannot account, and finally, +but for the storm which has fallen on us within 11 miles of the +depôt at which we hoped to secure our final supplies. Surely +misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last blow. We arrived +within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel for one last +meal and food for two days. For four days we have been unable +to leave the tent--the gale howling about us. We are weak, writing +is difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this journey, +which has shown that Englishmen can endure hardships, help one +another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the +past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out +against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but +bow to the will of Providence, determined still to do our best +to the last. But if we have been willing to give our lives to +this enterprise, which is for the honor of our country, I appeal +to our countrymen to see that those who depend on us are properly +cared for. + +Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, +endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred +the heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead +bodies must tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country +like ours will see that those who are dependent on us are properly +provided for. + + R. SCOTT. + + +[Illustration: British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart +of main southern journey.] + + + + +INDEX + +Abbott, George P., P.O. +Adélie Land +Admiralty, the +Alaska +Albemarle, H.M.S. +Albert Medal, the +Alexandra, Queen +Alpine Rope +Amphion, H.M.S. +Amundsen, Roald +Anton, Groom +Archer, W. W., chief steward +Armitage, Lieut. A. B. +Arnold, M., quoted +Arrival Bay + Heights +Athletic sports +Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist +Auckland Islands +Australia, Government of + +Balaclave helmets +Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J. +Balleny, Capt. John; + Islands +Balloons, ascents of +Barne, Lieut. Michael + Glacier +Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to +Barrier, Great Ice +Bay of Whales +Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis +Beppo, pony +Berlin +Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist +Birdie, dog +Birthday, celebrations of +Biscay, Bay of +Bismarck, dog +Bjaaland, Olav Olavson +Blanco, dog +Blissett, A. H. +Blizzard, The +Blossom, pony +Blucher, pony +Bluff, The + Camp +Boats, mishap to +Bones, pony +Bonner, Charles +Borchgrevink +Boss, dog +Bowers, Lieut. H. R. +Bowers, Mrs., letter to +Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to +Britannia, The +British Museum, the +Brownie, dog +Browning, E. B., quoted +Browning, Frank V., P.O. +Bruce, Canon Lloyd +Bruce, Kathleen +Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M. +Buckingham Palace Road +Bulwark, H.M.S. +Burlington House +Butter Point + +Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A. +Cape Adare + Armitage + Bernacchi + Bird + Crozier + Crozier Party + Evans + Jones + Mackay + North + of Good Hope + Royds + Sibbald + Wadworth + Washington +Cardiff +Castle Rock +Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain +Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist +Chinaman, pony +Christiania +Christopher, pony +Clarke, Charles, ship's cook +Clissold, Thomas, cook +Coal +Colbeck, Captain William +Coleridge, quoted +Colville, Rear-Admiral +Commonwealth Range +Cook, Capt. James +Corner Camp +Coulman Islands +Crater Heights + Hill +Crean, Thomas, P.O. +Cross, Jacob, P.O. +'Cruise of the Beagle,' +Cuts, pony + +Dailey, F. E., carpenter +Darwin, Charles +Day, Bernard C., motor engineer +Debenham, Frank, geologist +Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer + Islets +Demetri, dog driver +Dennistoun, James R. +Depôt Nunatak +Desolation Camp, Discovery Expedition + Last Expedition +Dickason, Harry, A.B. +Discovery, the fifth +Dog food +Dogs +Douglas, Sir Archibald +Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster +Dundee + Shipbuilding Company + +East India Docks +Edward VII, King +Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B.; (letter to) +Enderby Quadrant +Entertainments +Erebus Tongue +Esquimault. B.C. +Esquimaux +Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R. +Evans, P.O. + +Falkland Islands +Feather, Thomas A., boatswain +Fefer +Ferrar, Hartley T. + Glacier +Finance Committee +Fire, alarm of +Fisher, Admiral Sir John +Fitzclarence, dog +Football +Forde, Robert, P.O. +Fram, the +Franklin Island +Franz-Josef Land + +Gap, the +Gateway, the +Geological specimens +Gerof, Demetri. See Demetri +Glacier, the Beardmore +Glacier Depôt + Tongue +Gran Tryggve, ski expert +Granite Harbor +Grannie, dog +Gus, dog + +Haakon, King +Hackenschmidt, pony +Half-Degree Depôt +Hamilton, B. T. +Hampton Court Palace +Handsley. Jesse, A.B. +Hanson +Hanssen, Hilmer +Hare +Hassel, Sverre H. +Heald, William L., A.B. +Henley, W. E., quoted +'Hints to Travelers' +Hobart Town +Hockey +Hodgson, Thomas V. +Hooper, F. J., steward +Hoskins, Sir Anthony +Hut, the Discovery + at Cape Evans + Point +Hutton Rocks +Huxley, quoted + +Icebergs +Inaccessible Island + +Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition +Jehu, pony +Jim, dog +Joe, dog + +Kennar, Thomas, P.O. +Keohane, Patrick, P.O. +Kid, dog +King Edward's Island +Kinsey, J. J., letter to +Kipling, Rudyard, quoted +Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist + +Lantaret +Lashly, William, leading stoker +Lectures +Levick, G. Murray, surgeon; R.N. +Lewis, dog +Lillehammer +Lillie, Denis G., biologist +London Docks +Lower Glacier Depôt +Lyttelton + Heads + +Macartney, Sir William Ellison +Mackay, Captain Harry +Macquarie Island +Magnetic huts + Observatory +Magnetism, +Majestic, H.M.S. +Markham, Sir Clements; (preface) +Markham, Lady +McMurdo Sound +Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs +Merchant Shipping Act +Meridians +Message to the public +Meteorological observations + screens +Michael, pony +Middle Barrier Depôt +Midwinter celebrations +Milton, quoted +Monument Rock +Morning, the +Motor sledges +Mount Buckley + Cloudmaker + Darwin + Discovery + Erebus + Hooper Depôt + Hope + Longstaff + Markham + Melbourne + Monteagle + Murchison + Sabine + Terror + Whewell +Mulock, Lieut. George F. A. + +Nansen, Dr. +Naval Discipline Act +Nell, dog +Nelson, Edward W., biologist +Newbolt, Henry, quoted +New Harbor +Newnes, Sir George +New Zealand +New Zealand, Government of +Nigger, dog +Nobby, pony +Northern Party +Norway +Norwegians, the + +Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G. +Outlands +Observatory Hill +Oil, shortage of +'Old Mooney,' +Omelchenko, Anton. See Anton +One Ton Camp +Osman, dog + +P. and O. Company +Pack-ice +Parry Mountains +Peary, Lieutenant +Penguins + Emperor + King +Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L. +Petrels + Antarctic + Giant + Southern Fulmar + White Snow + Wilson stormy +Pigg, James, pony +Plumley, Frank, stoker +Pole, the South + Camp +Ponies, the +Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist +Port Chalmers + Ross + Stanley +Possession Islands +Pram Point + Bay + Ridges +President, H.M.S. +Pressure Ridges +Priestley, Raymond E., geologist +Proverbs, quoted +Punch, pony + +Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker + +Razor Back Islands +Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P. +Roberston Bay +Rodd, Sir Rennell, quoted +Ross, Sir James +Ross Harbor + Island + Quadrant + Sea +Rover, H.M.S. +Royal Geographical Society +Royal Society +Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R. +Russell Islands + +Safety Camp +San Francisco +Sawing-camp +Saxon, S.S. +Scamp, dog +Scott, John Edward +Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to; et passim +Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to +Scott of Brownhead +Scott, Peter Markham +Scurvy +Sea leopard + elephant +Seals + crab-eater + Ross +Shackleton, Sir Ernest H. +Shackleton's hut +Shakespeare, quoted +Shambles Camp +Shelley, quoted +Ship Committee +Simon's Bay +Simpson. George C., Meteorologist +Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W. +Ski +Ski-shoes +Skua gulls +Skuary, the +Sledge equipment +Sledges +Sleeping-bags +Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald +Smith's Inlet +Snatcher, dog + pony +Snippets, pony +Snow-shoes, for ponies +South Africa, Government of +Southern Barrier Depôt + Road, the +South Polar Times, Discovery Expedition + Last Expedition +Spenser, quoted +Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to, +Spud, dog +Stareek, dog +Stoke Damerel +Stripes, dog +Stubbington House, Fareham +Sturge Island +Sun, eclipse of +Sverdrup's 'New Land' + +Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist +Telephone, the +Tent, double +Tent, Island + Islet +Terra Nova, Discovery Expedition + Last Expedition +Thermometer, minimum +Thomson, Sir Courtauld +Three Degree Depôt +Transport +Turtle Back Island + +Uncle Bill, pony +Uniform overcoat +Union Jack, the +Upper Glacier Depôt + +Vic, dog +Victor, pony +Victoria, B.C. + Land + Quadrant +Victorious, H.M.S. +Vince, A. B. + +Weary Willy, pony +Weddell Quadrant +Weller, William J., A.B. +Western Geological Party (1); (2) +Western Mountains +Whales, killer +White Island +Wild, Frank +Wilkes, Commodore +Wilkes Land + +Williams, William, engineer +Williamson, Thomas S., P.O. +Wilson, Dr. E. A., chief, the scientific staff (Last Expedition), + zoologist +Wilson, Mrs., letter to +Winter Quarter Bay +Wisting, Oscar +Wolf, dog +Wolseley Motor Company +Wood Bay +Wright, Charles S., physicist + + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT *** + +This file should be named vscot10.txt or vscot10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, vscot11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, vscot10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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