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diff --git a/old/67477-0.txt b/old/67477-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2d5d26d..0000000 --- a/old/67477-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3780 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Bee-keeping for the Many; or, The -management of the common and Ligurian honey bee, including the selection -of hives and a bee-keeper's calendar, by J. H. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Bee-keeping for the Many; or, The management of the common and - Ligurian honey bee, including the selection of hives and a - bee-keeper's calendar - -Author: J. H. Payne - -Release Date: February 22, 2022 [eBook #67477] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials made freely available at - The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain. - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY; OR, -THE MANAGEMENT OF THE COMMON AND LIGURIAN HONEY BEE, INCLUDING THE -SELECTION OF HIVES AND A BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR *** - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Emphasis denoted by _Italics_ and =Bold=. Whole and fractional parts -of numbers as 123-4/5. Table of Contents added to aid the reader. - - - - - MANUALS FOR THE MANY - - No. III. - - BEE-KEEPING. - - BY THE LATE J. H. PAYNE Esq. - - THIRTIETH [Illustration] THOUSAND - - PRICE FOURPENCE. - - LONDON: - - JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE - - AND - - COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, FLEET ST. E.C. - - - FIRST-CLASS ILLUSTRATED GARDENING PERIODICAL - - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - _Published Weekly, Price 3d.; Stamped, 3-1/2d._ - - THE - - =JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE,= - - COTTAGE GARDENER, COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, - - =BEE-KEEPER, AND POULTRY CHRONICLE.= - - * * * * * - - EDITED BY - - G. W. JOHNSON, F.R.H.S., & ROBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.L.S. - - _Assisted by a Staff of the best Writers on Practical Gardening and - other Rural Pursuits connected with the Household._ - - * * * * * - -This long-established and widely circulating Journal consists of -Thirty-two Pages of Letter-press, with occasional Supplements of eight -additional Pages; and is richly Illustrated with Wood Engravings in the -highest style of the Art. - -The subjects treated on embrace every department of Gardening, and -Rural and Domestic Economy, the leading object being to render this -Journal a welcome guest in every country home. - -Natural History and Botany, so far as they relate to Gardening and -Husbandry, are amply treated on, and embrace Zoology, Geology, -Mineralogy, Meteorology, and Physiological, Structural, Systematic, and -Popular Botany. - -Biographies and Portraits of the most celebrated Horticulturists. - -Reviews of New Books relating to the above subjects; Reports of -Horticultural and Poultry Societies' Meetings throughout the country; -and Scientific Notices. - -To Advertisers the Journal of Horticulture will be found a valuable and -effective medium, from its extensive circulation among the middle and -upper classes. - - * * * * * - - A Specimen Number sent by Post for 3-1/2_d._ Stamps. - - * * * * * - - =OFFICE: 171, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C.= - -_To be had of all Booksellers, and at the Railway Stalls; or direct -from the Office on prepayment of the following terms:--One Quarter, 3s. -9 d.; Half Year, 7s. 6d.; One Year, 15s._ - - - - - =BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY;= - - OR - - THE MANAGEMENT OF THE - COMMON AND LIGURIAN HONEY BEE, - - INCLUDING - - THE SELECTION OF HIVES - AND - A BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR. - - - ----ooo---- - - - By J. H. PAYNE, Esq. - - A NEW EDITION REVISED AND ENLARGED BY THE EDITORS OF - THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE. - - - =THIRTIETH= [Illustration] =THOUSAND=. - - - - LONDON: - JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE OFFICE, - 171, FLEET STREET. - - - LONDON - PRINTED AT THE HORTICULTURAL PRESS. - 171, Fleet Street. - - - - - BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY. - - ----ooo---- - - CONTENTS - - Natural History 3 - Situation of the Apiary 5 - Hives 6 - Payne's Improved Cottage Hive 6 - Neighbour's Improved Cottage Hive 8 - Neighbour's Observatory Hive 9 - Taylor's Amateurs' Hive 10 - Fenn's Hive 11 - The Stewarton Hive 13 - Tegetmeier's Hive 14 - The Woodbury Hive 15 - Method of Securing Combs in Frames 19 - Swarming 20 - Uniting Swarms 23 - Ventilation 24 - Feeding 25 - Manner of Taking Honey 28 - Stupifying Bees 29 - Method of Draining Honey from the Combs 29 - Preparation of Wax 30 - Mead 30 - Honey Vinegar 31 - Remedies For the Sting of a Bee 31 - Bee Dress 32 - Purchasing Stocks 32 - The Ligurian Or Yellow Alp Bee 32 - To Unite a Ligurian Queen to a Common Stock Or Swarm 34 - Multiplying Swarms of Ligurians 35 - Bee-keeper's Calendar 37 - January 37 - February 38 - March 40 - April 42 - May 46 - June 50 - July 53 - August 55 - September 59 - October 61 - November 63 - December 65 - - - - - NATURAL HISTORY. - - -The following brief but comprehensive epitome of the principal facts in -the natural history of the Honey Bee is from the pen of Mr. Woodbury, -of Exeter, better known to the readers of The Journal of Horticulture -as "A Devonshire Bee-keeper." - -"The Queen.--There is in every prosperous colony of Bees a queen, or -mother Bee, whose peculiar office is to lay the eggs from which the -future Bees proceed. Her fecundity is amazing, it being computed that -she is capable of laying from 1500 to 2000 eggs a-day.[1] She receives -the greatest attention and respect from the other Bees; none of them -appear willing to turn their backs upon her, but all are watchful to -offer food and anticipate her every want. The cells in which queens are -reared differ very considerably from those of the workers or drones, -being much larger, and hanging in nearly a perpendicular position, -generally from the edges of the combs. Queen Bees occupy about sixteen -days from the laying of the egg to the evolution of the perfect insect, -and take wing when a few days old, in order to pair with a male Bee or -drone. When once fecundated, a queen Bee continues fertile during the -remainder of her life. According to Huber, fecundation is imperfect -when delayed beyond twenty days, and drone eggs only are laid ever -afterwards; but the observations and experiments of Dzierzon and -Berlepsch, which have been confirmed by Yon Siebold, the distinguished -German naturalist, prove that this phenomenon is rather to be ascribed -to parthenogenesis, and that a drone-breeding queen is in reality a -virgin queen. I have myself succeeded in repeating and verifying the -microscopical investigations of Von Siebold, which establish this -remarkable fact beyond the possibility of a doubt. Queen Bees are -readily distinguished by their larger size, being fully one-third -longer than the common Bees, and are armed with a sting, which, -however, they rarely use, except in combat with one another. - -[Footnote 1: Queen Bees of the Ligurian species are stated to lay as -many as 2000 to 3000 eggs per diem.] - -"The Workers are imperfect females. There is no doubt that every worker -egg or grub not more than a few days old is capable, by appropriate -treatment, of becoming developed into a perfect female or mother Bee. -If the queen is removed from a hive the Bees avail themselves of this -power by enlarging certain worker cells, and raising therefrom queens -which differ in no respect from those bred in the usual manner.[2] When -this interruption of the ordinary course of things has taken place, -it is occasionally found that the ovaries of some of the workers have -become sufficiently developed to admit of their depositing drone eggs, -although Yon Siebold declares them to be perfectly incapable of pairing -with the male. The workers constitute the great majority in every -healthy colony, and upon them devolves the labour of collecting honey -for the subsistence of all, pollen for feeding the young, and propolis -for stopping any crevice which might harbour an enemy. They are also -occupied in secreting wax,[3] building combs, feeding the young and the -queen, as well as guarding and ventilating the hive. Huber noticed two -kinds of working Bees, which he denominated respectively nurses and -wax-workers. This division of the workers into two classes has evoked -ridicule from some, and has been regarded with incredulity by many. My -own observations prove, however, that there really is a division of -labour among Bees, and that whilst the younger portion of the community -devote themselves to the home duties of the hive, their elders are -employed in ranging the woods and fields to provide sustenance for the -entire family. Workers arrive at maturity in about twenty-one days from -the laying of the egg. - -[Footnote 2: Advantage is taken of this remarkable fact in the -formation of artificial swarms, c.] - -[Footnote 3: Wax is a secretion from the body of the Bee, and not a -material conveyed into the hive. In order to form wax Bees must have -access hitherto honey or some other saccharine substance.] - -"The Drones are males which take no part in the duties of the hive, and -whose use appears to be that of fecundation. They are allowed to exist -only during summer, when they are very numerous, apparently out of all -proportion to the perfect females. But this apparent disproportion is -only a means to secure the important end, that when a queen takes her -wedding flights she may have a good chance of attaining her object. -Although the drones are much larger and stronger than the workers, they -have no stings wherewith to defend themselves, and are thrust out of -the hive to perish when their office is accomplished. They mature in -about twenty-four days after the egg is laid and are bred in larger -cells than the workers." - - - - -SITUATION OF THE APIARY. - - -Aspect.--I will commence by giving the aspect best suited for the Bees -to be placed in. I have tried all aspects, and have no hesitation -in saying that the south is the best. Bee-houses of all kinds I very -much dislike; many hives are ruined by them; they are expensive in the -first place, and they form a shelter for their worst enemies, mice, -moths, spiders, &c., and not the least, _dampness_, which is ruinous -to them. I would recommend the hives being placed south, or as nearly -so as may be convenient; if at all varying from it, give them a little -inclination to the east, and be sure to place them so that they have -the morning sun, for the honey-gathering for the day usually finishes -by two o'clock; therefore an hour in the morning is of much importance -to the Bees, as well as to their proprietors. Another inconvenience -arising from Bee-houses is that several hives being placed upon the -same board encourages pilfering, and renders it almost impossible to -operate upon one hive without disturbing the whole. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.] - -Stand for Hive.--Having, therefore, for these reasons, recommended the -abandonment of Bee-houses altogether, I would say, Place each hive -upon r separate board supported by a single pedestal 4 or 5 inches in -diameter--a piece of wood with the bark on does remarkably well; place -it firmly in the ground, and about 15 inches from its surface. Upon the -top of this post should be nailed firmly a piece of board 8 or 9 inches -square, upon which should be placed the board the hive stands upon, but -not united to it, so that the hive may be removed whenever required -without disturbing the Bees. - -Clay or mortar should never be used to fasten the hive to the board; -the Bees will do that in a much more effectual manner themselves, with -a substance they collect from resinous trees called propolis. Mortar -or clay tends very much to decay the hives; and hives managed on this -principle are expected to stand for fifteen or even twenty years. Let -the hives be placed about 3 feet apart from each other, and in a right -line. The best covering, as a protection from rain, is a large flat -earthen pan (a milk-pan) sufficiently large to prevent the drip from -falling upon the board. It would in all cases be well to give them the -shelter of a wall or fence from the north, but on no account place them -close to it, but leave a space of 4 or 5 feet at least for a path; for -the operations of taking off small hives, glasses, or boxes of honey, -are much more conveniently effected at the back than in the front of -the hives. It would be well to clean the boards on which the hives -stand four times in the year--namely, in January, March, April, and -November. January and March are the most important. - -The place where the hives are fixed should be kept clear of weeds; and -plants which rise in height equal to or exceeding the entrance of the -hives should not be suffered to grow near them. - - - - -HIVES. - - -I am more and more convinced, from experience, that Bees do much better -in broad, shallow hives, than in any others. All the hives that I have -used myself for the last three years, and those that I have had made -for the last two, have been of this kind--namely, 7 inches deep, and 14 -inches wide, measuring in the inside. The only inconvenience that can -possibly arise from a hive of this shape is, that from the great weight -of supers which year after year it will have to bear, the top will sink -a little; therefore it should never be used without an adapting-board -of 12 inches square; this will take the weight of the supers from the -centre to the side of the hive; indeed, it would be better to let the -adapting-board remain a fixture upon the hive when once fastened down -by the Bees, and should the corners at all interfere with the cover, -where the milk-pan is used, they may be rounded off a little to the -size of the hive. - - - - -PAYNE'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE. - - -With regard to the materials of which hives are made, I believe it to -be a matter of indifference whether straw or wood be used, but the -facility and economy in the construction of straw hives must always -be a recommendation, especially to the cottager. Having, therefore, -decided upon the materials for cottagers' hives, their form must now be -considered. For straw hives I would recommend the following size:--7 -inches deep and 14 in diameter; straight at the sides and flat at the -top; in shape like a half-bushel measure. A hole should be made in the -top 4 inches in diameter, and a piece of straw-work, like that of -which the hive is made, large enough to cover it, must be fastened over -the hole; not to fit in, but to cover _over_ it. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -It is better to have a groove made in the floor-board for an entrance -than to cut a piece out of the hive. The entrance should be 3 inches -wide by three-eighths of an inch high, to which affix a piece of copper -or zinc, about 6 inches long by 3 inches wide, having a groove to admit -two sliding plates, one perforated, and the other having a hole large -enough to allow but one Bee to come out at a time. - -Great advantages arise from this little apparatus; the perforated -slider is used to confine the Bees to their hive when snow lies upon -the ground, which entices them out, and they perish; it is useful, -also, when feeding becomes necessary, to exclude all intruders. The -other slider is used both in spring and autumn, preventing either -robbers or wasps from entering; for three or four Bees, with the help -of this slider, can guard the entrance more effectually than ten times -that number without it. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.] - -Supply of Hives.--To those persons who are disposed to adopt the very -simple method of managing their Bees that I have for so many years -successfully followed, I would say, Procure a supply of _Payne's -Improved Cottage Hives_; also of small hives, 8 inches in diameter and -7 inches deep, flat at the top with a bit of glass in one side covered -by a shutter. This hive is in shape the same as the large one, and -with a hole in the top covered with a piece of straw-work in the same -manner. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.] - -Boxes and Bell-Glasses.--Should boxes be preferred, those which I use -are made of inch-thick deal, 9 inches square, and 8 inches deep--inside -measure; with a piece of glass 6 inches by 7-1/2, let in on one side, -and covered by a shutter to exclude the light. Bell-glasses may also -be used with equal success if the light be effectually excluded. I -usually put on a bell-glass first, and when partially filled, raise it -up and place between it and the parent hive the small hive or box above -described. I say _partially_ filled, because, if allowed to remain till -filled, the Bees would very probably swarm, which the additional room -and ventilation given them, by placing either the box or small hive -between the glass and parent hive, will prevent. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -Adapting-Board.--A good supply of adapting-boards must also be in -readiness. They should be made of mahogany, for it will allow of being -worked very thin, without the risk of warping when used. They are -a quarter of an inch in thickness (_this is important_), 12 inches -square, with a circular hole in the middle 4 inches in diameter. - - - - -NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.] - -I would say that it consists of a straw, circular, lower compartment, -having three windows and outside shutters; a thermometer is fixed -across the centre window, so that the Bees cannot work between it and -the glass, and thus intercept the view of the graduated scale. This -little thermometer is found to be a useful appendage, as it affords -to the apiarian a correct indication of the state of the hive at -all seasons of the year. This lower or stock hive rests on a stout -wooden floor, at least 2 inches in thickness, projecting in front as a -landing-place for the Bees, which enter under the hoop attached to the -straw, by means of a sunken way; the _hoop_ is used to overcome the -uneven surface of the straw, as well as to give durability to the hive. -The top is also of wood, having three or more circular openings, of -about 3 inches diameter, to receive as many glasses. - -In the top of each glass is a small hole, through which a tube of -perforated zinc is suspended, upon which guide-combs may be fixed; -it also forms a convenient support, to which the Bees attach their -combs. Over the glasses is placed a cover of straw (also _hoop_-bound), -closely fitting the top of the stock hive, and secured by means of -thumb-screws, so that it can be removed with great facility, to allow -of inspection or operations. This straw cover is surmounted by a -ventilator, forming a neat finish, and by which the temperature of the -glasses may be regulated. - - - - -NEIGHBOUR'S OBSERVATORY HIVE. - - -Is of very stout glass, with an opening at the top of about 2 inches -diameter, over which a small glass may be placed when necessary. The -large, or stock hive, stands on a mahogany floor-board, with a circular -sinking to receive it; there are holes in the floor-board, covered with -perforated zinc, for the purpose of ventilation. Within the hive, on an -upright support rising from the floor-board, are arranged, in parallel -lines at right angles, eight bars of about an inch wide, leaving a -space next the glass all round, to which the bees in the first instance -attach their combs, guide combs having been placed upon them. There is -a cover made of straw for the whole, which reaches the floor-board, and -can be raised at pleasure; a landing-place, projecting as usual, with -a sunken way to allow the Bees egress and ingress, which completes the -contrivance. - - - - -TAYLOR'S AMATEURS' HIVE. - - -Having thus far given my plan for managing Bees in the _Improved -Cottage Hive_, I would now address a few words to the amateur, for the -purpose of recommending to his attention one of the 'best amateur's -hives that I have ever seen. It was invented by Mr. Taylor, author of -"The Bee-keeper's Manual," and is called "Taylor's Amateurs' Bar Hive." - -By the introduction of _bars_ each comb is made available, whether -for separate extraction or for experimental purposes. Indeed, in this -hive both the Bees and their store are at all times completely under -the command of their proprietors. From this hive fine honey may be -obtained, swarming effectually prevented, and artificial swarms, when -required, insured. I was kindly favoured with one of the above hives -from the inventor in time to have a swarm hived into it on the 28th of -May. In about three weeks from that time, I found it necessary to put -on the upper box; and early in September I took it off, containing 30 -lbs. of the finest honeycomb, yet leaving a full supply in the lower -or stock-box for the Bees during the winter and spring. Another great -advantage from this hive, above all others, is, that _a comb may be -extracted at any time_, which, where glasses or boxes are used, cannot -be done; these must be filled before they are removed, or much loss of -time is occasioned to the Bees. - -Having already described the hive I most approve of, I will now give a -description of a newly-invented one of my own. Convinced, as I have for -some time been, of the many advantages arising from having every hive -fitted with bars, I have at length constructed a _square straw hive_ of -that kind, which, from its inexpensiveness, I trusted would have come -within the reach of almost every cottager; but since putting together -the little items of cost for its several parts I fear that I am -mistaken, for it can cost but little, if any, less than 8_s._ The hive, -as I have already said, is of _straw_, and perfectly _square_, 13-1/2 -inches by 13-1/2, fitted with eight bars of 1-1/8 inch wide, with a -cover of wood--the bars are kept in their places by zinc fittings. The -openings in the crown-board are so placed as to allow of one large -glass, or two or three small ones, being worked. It is protected from -the weather by a milk-pan only in the winter, and in the summer, whilst -glasses are on (which may be covered with an old hive), by a milk-pan -and zinc shade. From the facility given by the bars to renew the combs, -this hive may be expected to stand for many years: therefore, two or -three coats of paint should be given it before the Bees are put into -it, and an additional one every year or two afterwards; and, as a -further means of preserving it from decay, the floor-board should be -the exact size of the hive, so that the drip from the milk-pan clears -it. A slight projecture in front for alighting must of course be -allowed; but by a careful adjustment of the milk-pan the drip may be -made to escape this also. - - - - -FENN'S HIVE. - - -There is an admirable hive contrived by Mr. Robert Fenn, of Woodstock, -described in the _Journal of Horticulture_, and which has proved one -of the best of what may be called "cottage hives." It consists of -a straw hive, _fig. 13_, 3, 16 inches in diameter, 11 inches deep, -straight-sided, quite flat on the top, the permanent mahogany adapting -board having a central hole about 3 inches in diameter, over which is -placed a thinnish round of plaited straw, slightly secured with wall -nails, though sufficiently so to prevent the egress of the Bees. Two -pieces of hard-wood sticks run completely and centrally through at -right angles to support the comb. The central hole of the adapter, -_fig. 9_, is fitted with a moveable round piece of thin deal that fits -exactly to the size of the hole, and this is supported by four pins -that are let into the sides of the hole, and project about one-eighth -of an inch, so as to allow the flap to rest upon them. The edges of -the rounded flap are cutaway as represented _fig. 9_, so as to leave -openings between the flap and the adapter of not more than one-quarter -of an inch, which will admit the worker Bees to ascend upwards, but -not the queen or the drones. Two other openings may be cut not quite -one-quarter of an inch broad, and three-quarters of an inch from the -sides. Two rows of holes may be bored, or a slit too narrow to allow -a Bee to pass, may be formed along the centre of the flap to act as -an air-passage. A strip of paper pasted to the flap and the adapter -will form a sort of house. Paste another piece of adhesive on at the -opposite end of the flap only. When the permanent adapting board is -placed--for it is never removed during the honey-gathering season--upon -the hive, take off the small round piece of plaited straw from the -top central hole, and quickly place a glass tumbler inverted over the -hole, which effectually prevents a Bee from escaping to place itself -in jeopardy or to annoy the operator. Then if the top of the hive is -at all sunken, which is frequently the case, have small deal fillets -(_fig. 8_), a trifle wider in diameter than the central hole of the -adapter, and of various depths, to slip over the tumbler, and a wind of -cotton wadding also to lay nearly around the outside circumference on -the top of the hive. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.] - -Then place on the permanent adapting board (_fig. 9_), when the tumbler -will obtrude itself up through the flaphole, and no insect will ever -be able to pass the cotton wadding one way, nor, by reason of the -fillet, will the Bees be able to go between the hive and the adapter -on the other. Now moisten the end of the adhesive paper, quickly take -away the tumbler, down with the flap, press the adhesive paper on to -the board, and place the super-board (_fig, 10_), which must have a -flap in its centre to exactly correspond with the one below. Two guide -pencil-marks on each board, previously marked, will point out their -proper positions; and by reason of these duplicate openings in the -flaps it will be seen by illustration to admit of two glasses (fig. -10 _a a_), being worked in lieu of one, which is another great point -gained in a good and early honey season. Now slip a carpet-bag over the -glasses to keep them warm, and the super-over-hive over that; and then -cover the whole with a brown glazed milk-pan. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - -_Fig. 11_ is a second small super-board to correspond with the above, -excepting that the central hole remains without a flap; for, unless -double supers are worked throughout the season, a third flap is -unnecessary, and the super 3 inches high or so, and of any diameter one -likes coming within the measurement of the board, is of wood, glass, -or straw. These are mostly fig-drums cut in halves, or at least to the -required depth, having a piece of glass let nearest the board, so as to -admit of one's seeing when the Bees have nearly completed their combs, -and are ready for another. When the time arrives, when it will be seen -by examination that the Bees have nearly completed their honey-combs -in the glasses, and are in want of more room; all that one has to do -to accommodate them is merely to lift up board and glasses, _fig. 10_, -slip a board and super and fillet on top in its place, _fig. 11_, and -set _fig. 10_ on the top of it, which will then represent _fig. 13_. -The narrow fillet will prevent the board from coming flush down on the -top of the newly-inserted super, which has a hole of only about 1-1/2 -inch in diameter in its top; a second small super-board would answer -this same purpose--viz., leave a vacuum there for the Bees to ascend to -complete the sealing-over of their combs in the glasses, which they -will presently do, and till when, of course, the pieces of carpeting -and super-over-hive is reinstated. - -Payne's straw supers are generally used for the third removes. They -cost there about 1_s._ each of Mr. Major in the Traverse, Bury St. -Edmunds, Suffolk. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 13.] - -_Fig. 12_ is the super-over-hive, a foot deep, and about 14 inches -inside diameter. Holes are worked in their tops, about 3 inches in -diameter, the same as for the Bee hives, to allow the foul air to -circulate up and away, or the top may be omitted altogether as is -represented in engraving. - - - - -THE STEWARTON HIVE. - - -During the last few years there have been great changes introduced in -the form and arrangements of Bee hives, which have met with the highest -approval of our best practical apiarians. Of these we shall just notice -those which have come in for the greatest share of favour, and which -are obtainable at a price which is within the means of persons of -ordinary income. - -The Stewarton Hive may be said to have revolutionised the whole system -of storifying bar hives. It has been in use for many years in Ayrshire, -and their introduction to the south is due to the late Mr. Eaglesham, -of Stewarton--an enthusiastic and very successful apiarian - -These hives consist of boxes of an octagonal shape, three of which -are set one upon the other and constitute a hive. The inside measure -is 13-3/4 inches across from side to side, or from back to front. -The height of the box, measured inside, is 5-3/4 inches. The bottom -is perfectly open. The top is quite flat, and consists of seven -fixed bars, each 1-1/2 inch wide, placed parallel to each other in -the direction from back to front. The spaces between the bars are -three-eighths of an inch wide, and are capable of being closed by -strips of wood, which slide in grooves made in the sides of the bars, -and which can readily be drawn out behind when required. Across the -middle of each box, at half its height, is a cross bar serving to -support the comb. Windows with sliding shutters are placed in the back -and front of each box, and an entrance is cut out of the front, 3 -inches in width by half an inch in height, with a slide to close it to -any required extent. In addition to the set of three boxes, a shallow -honey-box 3-3/4 inches in depth, and without an entrance in the front, -but otherwise made in precisely the same manner, is used as a super. -These boxes being used on the storifying system, they are furnished -with buttons and hooks for the purpose of securing them together. - -The general outline of the management is as follows:--A swarm is hived -into two boxes communicating with each other. When these are nearly -filled with comb a honey-box is placed above, neatly furnished with -guide-combs on the bars. When the Bees are fairly at work in the -honey-box, the third body box may be added below to give increased room -and prevent swarming. In the winter this third box is removed, and the -comb it contains left in, as it possesses a value well known to every -skilled Bee-keeper. Feeding when required is liberally pursued, enough -being given at once in the autumn to last till spring. The feeding-box, -8 inches square by 1-1/2 inch deep, is divided by strips of wood into -divisions half an inch wide. This is placed on the top of the hive, -covered over with a box, and the slides withdrawn to permit the Bees to -ascend to the food. - - - - -TEGETMEIER'S HIVE. - - -A modification of the Stewarton boxes was proposed by Mr. Tegetmeier, -who adopted the square forms instead of the octagonal, and which -certainly has this advantage over its prototype, that the moveable -bars will fit any place in any box. The Stewarton may be described as -consisting of two or more storifying-boxes, each furnished with seven -loose bars to which the combs are attached. These are kept in their -places by eight slides, which, when in position, render the loose -bars perfect fixtures, so that the boxes may be inverted without the -bars or slides losing their position. The size of Mr. Tegetmeier's -boxes was originally 11-3/4 inches square inside, and of two sizes in -depth--viz., 7 inches and 5 inches, but now he recommends them to be -13-1/2 inches square inside by 11 inches deep, each containing eight -frames. - -The plan of working the Stewarton and Tegetmeier boxes is the same. A -very strong swarm, or two weak ones, are placed in two boxes, and when -these are well filled, as may be seen by looking through the window -behind, a honey box or glass is placed over, and communication made by -withdrawing the slides. - - - - -THE WOODBURY HIVE. - - -Best, by far the best, of all this form of the bar hive, is that -introduced by Mr. Woodbury, who has done so much of late to extend our -knowledge of, and acquaintance with, the habits of the Bee. - -[Illustration: Fig. 14.] - -The following is Mr. Woodbury's own description of the hive, as it -appeared in the _Journal of Horticulture_:-- - -"In compliance with the wishes of numerous correspondents, I have much -pleasure in submitting to the readers of the _Journal of Horticulture_, -a description of my frame hives, supers, and outer cases, as at present -in use in my apiary. - -"Frame Hives are made of inch wood, 14-1/2 inches square, and 9 inches -deep inside, dovetailed and put together with paint, the ends of the -dovetails being pinned through with stout iron wire driven from the top -and bottom, and meeting in the centre. A window 7-1/2 inches long by 4 -deep affords a slight view of the interior from the back (not the front -as engraved), but is much obstructed by the frames. The crown-board -which is raised in the engraving, _fig. 14_, is keyed to prevent -warping, and is secured by four long brass screws passing through the -ends of the keys. A two-inch central hole for feeding is the only -aperture, and this is closed when not in use by a circular block -of one-and-a-quarter-inch wood 5 inches in diameter. A three-eighth -rabbet is cut out of the top inner edge at the back and front, and -below this are notches seven-eighths wide by three-eighths deep, in -which rest the ends of the frames. This arrangement affords the Bees a -free passage above the frames as well as below and at their sides. The -annexed sketch, _fig. 15_, of the interior angle of one of my hives is -drawn the full size, and will serve as a guide for the arrangement of -the frames, which are ten in number, and are placed at equal distances -apart. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 16.] - -"Compound Bar-frame.--This is a contrivance of my own, which I have -found very advantageous in enabling me to use frames in stock hives -and bars in supers without forfeiting the advantages arising from the -unlimited interchangeability of every comb in every hive and super -in the apiary. Its construction will be readily understood by an -inspection of the annexed sketch, _fig. 16_, in which the comb-bar is -shown slightly raised from its frame. The bar itself is 13-1/4 inches -long by seven-eighths wide and three-eighths thick; these dimensions -must be rigidly adhered to, as _every comb-bar should fit every hive -and super in the apiary_.[4] The slips of wood forming the frame are -seven-eighths of an inch wide and five-sixteenths of an inch thick, -with the exception of the projections at the top, which are the same -thickness as the bars, and are five-eighths of an inch long. When the -comb-bar is in its place the whole forms a frame 13 inches long by -7-1/4 inches high (inside measure), with a five-eighth projection at -each end, which rests in its appropriate notch in either the back or -front of the hive. The accompanying engraving, _fig. 17_, represents -the frame filled with comb, in which state the bar becomes so firmly -cemented to the frame as to admit of its being handled with the -greatest facility. - -[Footnote 4: It is a good plan to commence by making a pattern bar of -mahogany, which should be taken are of and used as a guide whenever -comb-bars are required.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 17.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 18.] - -"Improved Comb-bar.--This little contrivance has proved very effectual -in securing straight combs when guide-combs are not attainable. The -annexed sketch, _fig. 18_, is a section of the new bar. It will be -perceived that the lower angles are rounded off; whilst a central rib -is added of about an eighth of an inch in breadth and depth. This -central rib extends to within half an inch of each end, where it is -removed in order to admit of the bar fitting into the usual notch. -All that is necessary to insure the regular formation of combs is to -coat the underneath surface of the central rib with melted wax. My -practice is to use plain bars whenever guide-combs are attainable as -these can be attached with much greater facility to a plain than to a -ribbed bar; but whenever I put in a bar without comb I always use one -of the improved ones. By this method crooked and irregular combs are -altogether unknown in my apiary. - -[Illustration: Fig. 19.] - -"Floor-boards.--My floor-boards are made of one-and-a-quarter-inch -wood, keyed to prevent warping, are 18 inches square, and show a -projection of about an inch beyond the exterior of the hive, from -which they are chamfered down on all sides nearly three-eighths of an -inch. An entrance 3 inches or 4 inches wide is cut in front out of the -substance of the board commencing at the edge, and continuing on the -same level until inside the hive, where it slopes upwards. The entrance -formed in this manner is five-sixteenths of an inch in height where the -hive crosses it. - -[Illustration: Fig. 20.] - -"Alighting-boards are moveable, being attached to the floor-boards by -means of a couple of pins of stout wire; they are made from a piece of -a silk-roller, 2 inches in diameter by 8 long, rounded off at the ends, -which when quartered makes four alighting-boards. The surface should be -roughened by a toothed plane. - -"Supers are 13 inches square inside and of various depths. Six inches -deep is a convenient size, and, when filled, will contain nearly 30 -lbs. of honey. The engraving, _fig. 19_, represents a very neat glass -super of this size, which is manufactured by Messrs. Neighbour. It -shows also the adapter with its longitudinal communications near the -sides of the hive, and which replaces the crown-board when a super -is put on. As the honey-combs in supers are better when made of a -greater thickness than those intended for breeding, I place only eight -comb-bars in a thirteen-inch super. - -[Illustration: Fig. 21.] - -"Hive-roofs and Outer Cases are made of half-inch wood 11 inches wide. -The former is separate, and is cross-bradded together at the angles -with a two-and-a-quarter-inch turned acorn in the centre; its frame -fits loosely over the cover and rests on angle-pieces at the corners. -A half-inch opening is left under the eaves all round for ventilation. -The hive-cover is dovetailed together and glued, with a brad driven -through each of the tenons; it rests on the exterior projection of the -floor-board, and is retained in its place by a plinth 2 inches wide, -which fits loosely outside the latter. It must not be forgotten that -all wooden roofs and outside cases require to be kept well painted, -whilst no paint should ever be applied to the hive itself. - -"When a super is put on a second outer case becomes necessary, and this -fits loosely on the first, when the hive appears as it is represented -in the annexed engraving." - - - - -METHOD OF SECURING COMBS IN FRAMES. - - -When transferring combs into frames we temporarily secure them in -position by the aid of slips of wood a sixteenth of an inch thick by -half an inch wide, tacked on each side, and one or more zinc slips as -delineated in the engraving. - -All these artificial supports should be removed as soon as possible. -The combs will generally be found firmly fixed in less than forty-eight -hours. - -[Illustration: Fig. 22.] - - - - -SWARMING. - - -It frequently happens when Bees are managed upon the depriving system, -that for want of timely room and ventilation being given, a swarm comes -off from the stock hive, leaving the bell-glass, or small hive which -has been placed upon it, in an unfinished state. Now, whenever this -happens, let the swarm be hived into "The Improved Cottage Hive," and -the bell-glass or small hive, with the adapter, immediately removed -from the stock hive, and placed upon the newly-hived swarm; and as -soon as the Bees are a little settled (say in fifteen minutes), remove -the new-hived swarm to the place in which it is intended to remain, -care being taken to fasten down the straw cover upon the parent hive; -for no further profit can be expected from it beyond a second, and, -perhaps, a third swarm, which are almost sure to follow. In this method -of immediately removing a swarm to the apiary, Gelieu agrees with me, -and for which he gives the following reasons:--"Most people who have -Bees allow their swarms to remain till the evening in the place where -they have alighted, and do not move them to the apiary till after -sunset. This method has many inconveniences. As soon as a swarm has -congregated in the new hive, and seems to be at ease in it, the most -industrious among the Bees fly off to the fields, but with a great -many precautions; they descend the front of the hive, and turn to -every side to examine it thoroughly, then take flight, and make some -circles in the air in order to reconnoitre their new abode; they do -the same in returning. If the swarm has taken flight in the morning, -the same Bees make several excursions during the day, and each time -with less precaution, as, becoming familiarised with their dwelling, -they are less afraid of mistaking it; and thus, next morning, supposing -themselves in the same place, they take wing without having observed -where they have spent the night, and surprised at their return not to -find the hive in the same place, they fly about all day in search of -it, until they perish with fatigue and despair. Thus many hundreds -of the most industrious labourers are lost; and this may be entirely -avoided if the swarms be removed as soon as the Bees are perceived -coming out: this sign is alone sufficient." Experience has long since -proved that the custom of beating warming-pans, and the like, at the -time a swarm leaves the hive is perfectly useless. Much trouble may be -spared the Bees if the loose straws be removed from its interior; and -the best method of effecting this is first to singe them with a wax -taper and afterwards to remove them with a hard brush. - -It is now an ascertained fact that the old queen accompanies the first -swarm; the period which usually transpires between the first and second -swarms is from nine to thirteen days; between the second and third the -time is much shorter. If second swarms come by the middle of June, and -stocks are required, it will be well to preserve them, for after-swarms -have always young queens, which is a great advantage. Should second -swarms not come till July, let them be returned to the parent hive, or -put two of them together. - -Symptoms of Swarming.--The symptoms preceding a _first_ swarm are -the rapid increase in numbers clustering, or hanging out, and drones -becoming numerous and unusually active. Those of an after-swarm are -much more certain, for, nine or ten days after the departure of the -first swarm, a singular noise, called "piping," may be heard in the -stock. The first note, says Mr. Golding, is long and plaintive, and is -uttered by the princess already at liberty; she traverses the hive, and -stops upon, or near, the royal cells which still contain brood, and -emits her long plaintive note. This, when the other young queens are -sufficiently forward, generally in about two days, is answered by them -from _within_ their cells in a quick, short, hoarse note; after these -last have been heard for about two days the swarm may be expected to -come off. Third swarms should either be returned to the parent hive, or -added to a second swarm, for by themselves they are totally valueless. -Sometimes an early first swarm, when additional room is not supplied at -the time required, will send out another swarm: this generally occurs -in about a month, but it is a thing by no means to be desired, and -should carefully be prevented by giving timely room. - -Hiving.--"Whatever system is adopted let everything be in readiness -for the reception of swarms, for even where the depriving system is -followed, from some oversight on the part of the apiarian a swarm will -occasionally occur. Watch the swarm in silence, and after it has once -collected, lose no time in housing it into a new, clean and dry hive -(its weight with the floor-board being first taken and marked upon -it), and let it he placed where it is to remain within ten or fifteen -minutes after the time of its being hived; it will not be necessary -even to wait till the Bees clustered in front or on the sides of the -hive are reunited to their companions inside, as they are never long in -being so. - -Hives with Comb in Them.--Hives of comb, in which swarms of the last -year have died, should be carefully preserved for hiving swarms into -them; it gives a swarm treated in this manner full three weeks' -advantage over another put at the same time into an empty hive. - -Putting Glasses of Small Hives upon Swarms.--The most proper time for -putting the bell-glass, or small hive, or box, upon a swarm, will be -from the eighteenth to the twenty-first day after their being hived; -and should it be quickly filled, and more room required, which may be -known by the crowded state of the Bees inside the glass, and by their -being seen to cluster at the mouth of the hive at nine or ten in the -morning, let no time be lost in lifting up the glass, and placing -between it and the stock hive a small hive or box with a hole in the -top. (See page 8). It is necessary to use this precaution at all times, -but more especially in a rainy season, as a greater disposition amongst -the Bees to swarm then prevails. "Dry weather makes plenty of honey, -and moist of swarms," says good Mr. Purchase; and, however, incorrect -this position may at first sight appear, the attentive observer will -quickly become convinced of its truth. - -Second Swarms.--A second swarm generally leaves the hive about nine -days after the first; but the time may be exactly ascertained by -standing quietly beside the hive after sunset, when the queen may -be distinctly heard "totun in hir treble voic," (_Butler's Feminin -Monarchi_, Ed. 1643), which is a certain indication that a second swarm -will leave the hive. Should two or three queens be heard one after the -other, it will be on the following day, if the weather be not very -unfavourable. Should the queens continue to pipe after the departure of -a second swarm, a third will _certainly_ follow in a few days; but if -one or two queens be found dead beneath the hive on the next morning, -no more swarms can be expected. - - - - -UNITING SWARMS. - - -I must here observe that second and third swarms are very seldom, if -ever, worth preserving by themselves; but two second swarms, when -joined, are very little inferior in value to a first swarm, and the -union is very easily effected in the following manner:--When two -second swarms, or a second and third, come off on the same day, hive -them separately, and leave them till an hour and a half after sunset; -then spread a cloth upon the ground, upon which, by a smart and sudden -movement, shake all the Bees out of one of the hives, and immediately -take the other and place it gently over the Bees that are heaped -together upon the cloth, wedging up one side about half an inch, that -the Bees outside may pass under, and they will instantly ascend into it -and join those which, not having been disturbed, are quiet in their new -abode. Next morning before sunrise, remove this newly-united hive to -the place in which it is to remain. This doubled population will work -with double success, and in the most perfect harmony, and generally -become a strong stock, from which much profit may be derived. - -Two second swarms, or a second and third, may be joined in the same -manner, although one of them may have swarmed some days or even weeks -later than the other; taking care, however, not to make the first -one enter the second, but the second the first. A third and a fourth -parcel of Bees may be joined to them at different times in the same way -till the stock becomes strong. It is almost impossible sufficiently -to impress upon the mind of every one who keeps Bees the necessity of -having his stocks _all strong_; for weak stocks are very troublesome, -very expensive, and seldom, if ever, afford any profit. - -Mr. Taylor says, "The stronger the colony at the outset, the better -the Bees will work, and the more prosperous it will become. I never -knew a weak one do well long; and a little extra expense at first is -amply rewarded by succeeding years of prosperity and ultimate profit." -And again, "Thus strength in one year begets it in succeeding ones; -and this principle ought to be borne in mine by those who imagine that -the deficient population of one season will be made up in the next, -and that the loss of Bees in the winter is of secondary consequence, -forgetting how influential is their warmth to the earlier and increased -productive powers of the queen; and how important it is, in the opening -spring, to be able to spare from the home duties of the hive a number -of collectors to add to the stores, which would otherwise not keep pace -with the cravings of the rising generation." - -It is a remarkable fact, that two weak stocks joined will collect -double the quantity of honey, and consume much less, than two of the -same age and strength kept separately. Stocks must be joined after -sunset, upon the day that one of them has swarmed; and the double stock -must be placed upon the stand it previously occupied; great care must -be taken not to shake the hive, nor must it be turned up. The combs -being new and tender, will easily break, and the stock by that means be -destroyed. - - - - -VENTILATION. - - -Much has been said about ventilation, and many are the inventions for -effecting it, but I have not seen one that is really efficient; its -advantages, both in preventing swarms and in preserving the colour of -the combs, no person at all acquainted with the management of Bees will -deny. - -[Illustration: Fig. 23.] - -The best ventilator that I have seen is this of Mr. Taylor's. "The -ventilator I use," says Mr. T., "consists of double tubes, both -resting on a flaunch in the hole prepared for them; the outer tube -is of one-inch diameter, and 6 inches long, with six half-inch -holes dispersed over it; it is soon fixed down in its place by the -Bees, and so must remain. The inner tube is perforated zinc, with a -tin projecting top as a handle, and a cap to put on or off this as -required. The Bees will stop up the zinc tube when they can get at -it, when it may be turned round a little to present a new surface; -when wholly stopped it may be withdrawn from its place, and a clean -tube substituted. This may be done without the least danger to the -operator; but it should be inserted carefully, to avoid crushing any -Bees that may have crept within the outer tube. An exit to these is -afforded by the hole at the bottom. The substance with which Bees glue -up all crevices and attach their combs is called propolis, a resinous -exudation from certain trees, of a fragrant smell, and removable by the -aid of hot water." - -In adapting Mr. Taylor's ventilator to the small hive or box, the inner -tube must be made without "the projecting top as a handle," and the cap -made even with the flaunch. - -After, all, however, the most certain, as well as the most simple, -plan is to lift the stories apart upon small pieces of sheet lead, -especially between the stock hive and glass box, or small hive in -immediate connection with it. The stock hive itself may also be raised -half an inch from the floor-board by blocks of wood of that thickness. -This precaution is necessary only in very sultry weather, and when -swarming is likely to occur. No fears need be entertained at this time -of robbers; for when honey is to be had abroad the Bees will not pilfer -it from their neighbours at home. As soon as the very hot weather is -over, it will be necessary to remove the blocks and restore the hives -to their original position. - - - - -FEEDING. - - -The best kind of food that can be given to Bees is honey liquefied with -a small portion of warm water; but where honey is scarce and dear, an -excellent substitute will be found in lump sugar. Three pounds of sugar -to a pint of water, boiled for two or three minutes, and then mixed -with a pound of honey, this will make five pounds of excellent food, -which the Bees appear to like quite as well as honey alone. Or three -pounds of lump sugar may be dissolved in two pounds of water by being -boiled a minute or two. This is a very cheap and simple Bee food, and -really answers every purpose. - -Of all other kinds of food (where honey in the combs cannot be had) -barley-sugar is the best, and not only the best and the cheapest, but -the safest and by far the least trouble; for when liquid food is used -it is carried down by the Bees immediately upon its being supplied and -stored in the combs, and the proprietor has no means of knowing at -what time the store is exhausted, and a fresh supply required; but it -is not so with barley-sugar, for whilst a morsel remains, which may -easily be seen, it is certain the Bees will not die of want. The best -method of supplying it is at the top of the hives or boxes. My plan -is to tie a dozen sticks of it together, and after opening the hive -at top, to place the barley-sugar over the opening, and to cover it -with a garden-pan or flower-pot; and just before it is all consumed, -give a fresh supply in a similar way. Persons generally are apt to -imagine that as soon as a few blossoms make their appearance in the -spring their Bees will not want any attention, which is a very great -mistake, as many a young apiarian has discovered both to his cost and -disappointment; for during the months of March and April greater care -is required in feeding than at any other time, for the population is -then rapidly increasing, and in a wet and cloudy season no supplies -whatever can be obtained but by artificial means. - -To Make Barley-sugar.--Put two pounds of loaf sugar into a saucepan -with half a pint of water, and two spoonfuls of the best vinegar; put -it on a gentle fire, let it boil till the syrup becomes so thick that -the handle of a spoon being dipped into it, and then plunged into cold -water, the syrup upon the handle is found to be quite crisp; when this -is the case it is sufficiently boiled. Having an earthen dish or marble -slab in readiness, well buttered, pour the syrup upon it, and, when -sufficiently cool to handle, clip it with scissors into strips the size -desired. The process of boiling takes about twenty minutes. - -Feeding Bottles.--The very best mode of administering liquid food is -by means of an inverted bottle, the mouth of which should be tied over -with a bit of coarse leno or cap-net. It is a mistake to use muslin for -this purpose, or, in fact, any material the meshes of which are less -than a sixteenth of an inch wide. With common hives the bottle-neck -may be inserted in the central aperture, which usually exists (if not, -one should be made with a sharp penknife), in the top, and refilled as -often as may be necessary. With flat-topped hives the bottle should -be supported by its neck being fitted into a perforated block of wood -about five inches in diameter, and it will be found convenient to -interpose a piece of perforated zinc to prevent the Bees escaping when -the bottle is refilled. A four or six-ounce medicine phial is a good -size for spring-feeding, whilst a common pickle-bottle leaves nothing -to be desired when a copious supply is required in autumn. - -[Illustration: Fig. 24.] - -A feeding-bottle should be filled by the food being poured into it from -a jug, and if the neck be narrow it may, after the mouth is tied over, -be quickly inverted over the aperture in the top of the hive, so that -what food escapes may run into the hive and down among the Bees. If, on -the other hand, the mouth be wide, as in the case of a pickle-bottle, -it should be first inverted over the jug and steadily conveyed to the -hive in a reversed position When a bottle is properly managed no food -runs down into the hive after it has been placed upon it, but all -remains perfectly suspended whilst it is being gradually removed by the -Bees, which find no difficulty in emptying a full-sized pickle-bottle -every night. - -[Illustration: Fig. 25. - -_a_, Circular hole through which the Bees ascend; _b_, The feeding-pan -containing the food, which is put in at the side spout, _c_, and upon -which the float rises and falls.] - -Feeding-pans.--Having been frequently applied to for the plan of a -feeding-pan best adapted for my Improved Cottage Hive, I am induced -to answer the very many applicants by giving a description of the -one I have been using for the last two or three years. It is made of -stout zinc, circular, 8 inches in diameter, 2-1/2 inches deep, having -a circular hole of 2-1/2 inches in the middle of the bottom, with a -rim round it standing up 2 inches; a float of wood, very thin and -perforated with holes, is made to fit inside, but sufficiently easy to -rise and fall with the liquid in the pan; the holes in this float must -first be made with a gimlet, and then burnt with an iron, or they will -fill up after having been in use a little time; the whole is covered by -a lid with an inside rim, the lid having a piece of glass in the centre -of 2-1/2 or 3 inches in diameter. When first using this feeding-pan, I -found much inconvenience in being obliged to remove the lid every time -that a fresh supply of food was required. To obviate this difficulty, -I had a half circle 3 inches in diameter, attached to its sides, with -a lid or cover, and communicating with the interior of the feeding-pan -by a hole cut in the side, and covered with a piece of perforated -zinc, so that by looking through the glass in the lid I can see when a -fresh supply of food is required; and I have then only to raise the -lid of this additional side-piece, and pour in the food, which passes -readily through the perforated zinc, and raises the wooden float upon -its surface. Four very small tacks should be driven into the under side -of the float, at equal distances from each other, to prevent its going -quite to the bottom of the pan; and it is also necessary for the rim in -the centre of the pan to be roughed with a file, or to be lined with -perforated zinc, to enable the Bees to ascend more easily than they -would otherwise do if it was left quite smooth. - -The float should be less than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and is -better to be made of mahogany. - - - - -MANNER OF TAKING HONEY. - - -At noon, upon a clear fine day, pass either a very thin knife or fine -wire between the hive and the glass intended to be taken. If this -precaution be neglected, a piece of comb is frequently left projecting -from the top of the one left, or the bottom of that taken, which will -cause much trouble to the operator. Two adapting-boards (see page 8) -placed between the hive and the glass will be found very convenient, -for the knife or wire will then only have to be passed between them, -and the danger of breaking the combs thus be obviated. - -To Expel the Bees from the Glass.--The glass must be lifted _very_ -gently, kept in the same position, and placed upon three inverted -flower-pots, or something of the kind, in a shaded place, about 30 or -40 yards from the hive, and the Bees will make their escape in about -ten or fifteen minutes. Gentleness, as I have before said, is very -necessary in this, as in all other operations with Bees; indeed, it -is the only means of accomplishing the end desired: therefore, remove -the glass very gently, and place it about 6 inches above the ground on -bricks or flower-pots, as above. Shaking, beating, or burning paper -under it, have all a contrary effect than that desired upon the Bees: -they are alarmed by this, and will not leave the glass for hours, and, -perhaps, days when these means are resorted to. The glass being thus -placed, a loud humming noise is first heard, and the Bees are then seen -to leave it, and in five or six minutes all, except a few stragglers -that may be brushed out with a feather, will have left it: but should -the queen be in the glass, which very rarely happens, quite a different -appearance presents itself--no noise will be heard, nor a Bee scarcely -seen to leave it; but the hive from which it has been taken will, in -a very short time, appear in great confusion. Whenever this occurs -the glass must be returned immediately, and taken off again the next -day. When a glass or box of honey is taken, it must not be left till -the Bees are all out of it, for it is very likely to be attacked by -robbers, and a great part of it carried away in a short time. Robbers -may be known by their endeavouring to enter the glass or box, while -the Bees belonging to it, being separated from their queen, fly home -immediately upon leaving it. I have frequently found it necessary, in -order to prevent robbers from attacking the glass, to remove it from -place to place every four or five minutes, or to take the glass into a -darkened room, so that a small portion of light is admitted through a -hole which communicates with the open air. - - - - -STUPIFYING BEES. - - -By Fumigation.--Much has been said and written upon the subject of -fumigation, yet this is a process that I am not at all partial to; and, -as far as my experience has gone, it is one which I have never yet -had occasion to resort to in a single instance; for even in the most -difficult operations I have always found a puff, and that a very little -one, of tobacco-smoke to be all-sufficient. As I have said before, -gentleness is the best protection; still, if by any little accident -the Bees become irritated, a slight puff of tobacco-smoke quiets them -at once. One reason for my not being partial to fumigation is, that I -could never see the necessity for it; and another reason is, that all -the Bees, which I have seen thus treated are sluggish and inactive for -some days after the operation, besides many having been killed. Now, -this in early spring, or in the midst of the honey-gathering season, -is certainly of great consequence, especially when we are told that a -prosperous colony of Bees will, in a single day of the latter season, -collect from 4 to 6 lbs. of honey. - - - - -METHOD OF DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS. - - -Place a sieve, either of hair or canvas, over an earthen jar, cut -the combs containing the honey into small pieces, and put them into -a sieve; let them be cut in an horizontal direction. It is better to -slice them twice--that is, at the top and bottom, than in the middle. -Crushing or pressing should be avoided for, as a portion of brood -and Bee-bread generally remains in the comb, pressure would force -it through the sieve, and the honey would thereby be much injured, -both in colour as well a& flavour. It is very desirable to have two -sieves; for in every hive there will be two kinds of honey--the one -almost colourless and fine-flavoured, found at the sides of the hive; -the other dark and not so good, stored in the centre. These should -always be kept separate. The draining process may occupy, perhaps, -two days; but the largest quantity, as well as the best quality, will -be drained off in three or four hours. The honey should be put into -jars immediately, and the jars _filled_ and tied down with bladder; for -exposure to the air, even for a few hours, very much deteriorates its -flavour. I may here observe, that honey in the combs keeps remarkably -well if folded in writing-paper, and sealed up so as to exclude the -free entrance of the air, and is placed in a dry warm closet. - - - - -PREPARATION OF WAX. - - -Having drained all the honey from the combs, wash these in clean water; -this liquid, by exposure to the sun and air, will make most excellent -vinegar; put them in a clean boiler with some soft water; simmer over a -clear fire until the combs are melted: pour a quart or so into a canvas -bag, wide at the top and tapering downwards into a jelly bag; hold this -over a tub of cold water; the boiling liquor will immediately pass -away, leaving the liquefied wax and the dross in the bag; have ready a -piece of smooth board, of such a length that one end may rest at the -bottom of the tub and the other end at its top; upon this inclined -plane lay your reeking bag, but not so as to touch the cold water; -then, by compressing the bag with any convenient roller, the wax will -ooze through and run down the board into the cold water, on the surface -of which it will set in thin flakes; empty the dross out of the bag and -replenish it with the boiling wax, and proceed as before until all has -been pressed. When finished, collect the wax from the surface of the -cold water, put it into a clean saucepan with very little water, melt -it carefully over a slow fire, skim off the dross as it rises, then -pour it into moulds, or shapes, and place them where they will cool -slowly. The wax may be rendered still more pure by a second melting and -moulding. - - - - -MEAD. - - -This treatise would not be complete without a receipt for Mead, the -following is the best that I have seen, and is most excellent:--Pour -five gallons of boiling water upon 20 lbs. of honey; boil, and remove -the scum as it rises; when it ceases to rise, add 1 oz. of hops, and -boil for ten minutes afterwards; put the liquor into a tub to cool. -When reduced to 75° of Fahrenheit, add a slice of bread toasted and -smeared over with a little yeast, let it stand in a warm room and be -stirred occasionally; and when it carries a head tun it, filling the -cask up from time to time. When the fermentation has nearly finished -bung it down, leaving a peg-hole, which may soon be closed; bottle in -about a year. - - - - -HONEY VINEGAR. - - -A most excellent Vinegar may also be had from honey:--Put half a pound -of honey to a quart of water, boiling hot; mix well, and expose to the -greatest heat of the sun without closing the vessel containing it, but -sufficiently so to keep out insects. In about six weeks this liquor -becomes acid and changes to strong vinegar, and of _excellent_ quality. -The broken combs, after being drained, may be put in as much water as -will float them, and well washed. The linens also and sieves which have -been used for draining honey, may be rinsed in the same water, and with -this make the vinegar; first boil and scum it before mixing it with the -honey. - - - - -REMEDIES FOR THE STING OF A BEE. - - -1. Persons who are much amongst Bees must now and then expect to -meet with a sting, although to myself it very rarely happens; never, -indeed, but when accidentally having laid my hand upon one, or when -having pressed one beneath the sleeve of my coat. "The sooner the -sting is extracted," says Dr. Bevan, "the less venom is ejected, and, -consequently, less inflammation induced." After extracting the sting, -I apply the least possible quantity of _liquor potassæ_, either with -a fine camel's-hair pencil, a sharp pen, or even with the point of a -needle. The venom of the Bee being an acid, this very powerful alkali -neutralises it; the pain is instantly removed, and neither swelling -nor inflammation follows. Care must be taken not to use too large a -quantity or a scar will be the consequence, which will last for some -days. Remember, the quicker the application the more effectual the cure. - -2. The only _positive_ and _immediate_ cure for a Bee-sting that I have -ever heard of, and that may be depended on in all cases, is tobacco. -This remedy was recommended to me as an infallible cure; yet I had but -little faith in it: still I tried it, and, as I supposed, properly, -and found little or no benefit from its use. I reported its failure -to cure in my own case to my informant, and he stated that I had not -applied it thoroughly as I ought to have done; that he was certain -that it would be an effectual cure, never having known it to fail in -a single instance when correctly applied. The next time I got stung I -applied the tobacco as directed, and found it to cure like a charm. -The manner of applying it is as follows:--Take ordinary fine-cut -smoking or chewing tobacco, and lay a pinch of it in the hollow of your -hand, and moisten it and work it over until the juice appears quite -dark-coloured; then apply it to the part stung, rubbing in the juice, -with the tobacco between your thumb and fingers, as with a sponge. As -fast as the tobacco becomes dry, add a little moisture and continue to -rub, and press out the juice upon the inflamed spot, during five or ten -minutes, and if applied soon after being stung it will cure in 'every -case. Before I tried it, I was frequently laid up with swollen eyes and -limbs for days. Now it is amusing to get stung.--(_Miner's American -Bee-keeper's Manual._) - - - - -BEE DRESS. - - -In the season for going amongst Bees careful apiarians are desirous of -having all things ready for use before they are immediately required, -and as being well-armed against the stings of their Bees gives -confidence and coolness to the inexperienced operator, both of which -are so essentially necessary to the successful accomplishment of his -object, I will give the plan of a very simple and convenient Bee-dress, -which has been kindly handed to me by a friend. It is formed of green -leno, and so made as to enclose the head, neck, and shoulders; indeed, -it is like a bag, with sleeves to tie at the wrists. The sleeves are -made of green glazed cambric. It forms altogether a perfect panoply, -and the most timid person with its aid may perform the most difficult -operation with the greatest coolness, and without the possibility of -being stung. - - - - -PURCHASING STOCKS. - - -March and April are the best two months for purchasing stocks, and May -for swarms. It is better to obtain them from such a distance only as -they can be conveyed by hand; conveyance by any other means is always -attended with danger to the Bees. Swarms require less care in carrying -from place to place than stocks. In purchasing stocks the weight -alone must not be relied on; a swarm of the preceding year should be -selected, and one that contains not less than 12 lbs. of honey. The -combs must be looked at, and if they are not of a yellow or straw -colour, and if at all approaching to blackness, it is not a swarm of -the last year, and must be rejected. The next best time to purchase is -May or June, at the time of swarming; but of this hereafter. - - - - -THE LIGURIAN OR YELLOW ALP BEE. - - -The Ligurian Bee is a species indigenous to the south of Europe, and -has been cultivated in Italy in the same way as the common honey Bee -has been in the northern parts of Europe from time immemorial. It is -the Apis Ligustica of the naturalist; and though so well known to exist -and to have all the honey-producing properties of our own honey Bee, -with some other advantages besides, it seems remarkable that it should -have remained so long unknown to the apiarians of this country. - -The merit of introducing this species is due to Mr. Woodbury, the -eminent Devonshire Bee-keeper, who, having made the necessary -preliminary inquiries, placed himself in communication with Mons. H. C. -Hermann, of Tamin-by-Chur, in the Canton of Grison, Switzerland; and on -the 19th of July, 1859, the Ligurian Bee was introduced to England. - -In a pamphlet on the subject by M. Hermann we have the following -particulars of this insect:-- - -"The yellow Italian Alp Bee is a mountain insect; it is found between -two mountain chains to the right and left of Lombardy and the -Rhætian Alps, comprising the whole territory of Tessins, Vetlin, and -South-Graubunden. It thrives up to the height of 4500 feet above the -level of the sea, and appears to prefer the northern clime to the -warmer, for in the south of Italy it is not found. The farther one -goes from the Alps, the less handsome they are found--as for example -in Nice, until they are entirely lost in lower Italy in the black -species. We must therefore look for the original in Switzerland, and -we can call them with as much right _Apis Helvetica_, as the Genoese -call them _Apis Ligustica_. Some learned men have called them Ligurian -Bees, but that name has neither historical nor geographical claim, and -not one Bee-cultivator of the whole district of the Italian Alp Bee -knows what kind of insects Ligurian Bees are. The Alps are their native -country; therefore they are called Yellow Alp Bees, or Tame House -Bees, in contradistinction to the black European Bees, which we might -call common forest Bees, and which, on the slightest touch, fly like -lightning into your face. - -"The Italian yellow Bee differs from the common black Bee in its -longer more slender form, and light chrome yellow colour, with light -brimstone-coloured wings, and two orange-red bands, each one-sixth of -an inch wide. Working Bees as well as drones have this mark. The drones -are further distinguished by the bands being scolloped like the spotted -water-serpent, and obtain an astonishing size--almost half as large -again as the black drones. The queen has the same marks as the working -Bees, but much more conspicuous and lighter; she is much larger than -the black queen, and easy to be singled out of the swarm, on account of -her remarkable bodily size and light colour. - -"The Bees are almost transparent when the sun shines on them. - -"This race has nothing in common with the black Bees, which can be -instantly seen by their ways and manner of building. The cells of the -Italian Bee are considerably deeper and broader than those of the -black Bees. Fifteen cells of the Italians are as broad as sixteen cells -of the black kind." - -Their chief merits in contrast with the black Bees are--1, as they -naturally inhabit a region of such elevation as 4500 feet, they are -less sensitive to cold than the common Bee; 2, their queens are more -prolific; 3, they swarm earlier and more frequently; 4, they are much -less apt to sting, and not only so, but unless they are intentionally -annoyed or irritated they are not inclined to sting; 5, they are more -courageous and active in self-defence, and are particularly disposed -to plunder the hives of the common kind; but should the latter attack -their hives they fight with great fierceness and adroitness. - - - - -TO UNITE A LIGURIAN QUEEN TO A COMMON STOCK OR SWARM. - - -As soon as you have become possessed of a Ligurian queen and her -attendants, steps should be taken for removing the common queen from -the stock, or swarm, to which the strangers are to be united. - -Where _bar hives_ are in use the operation is sufficiently easy, but -should not be attempted without the protection afforded by a Bee-dress -and a thick pair of wollen gloves. The services of an assistant -similarly accoutred will be found very useful, but are not absolutely -indispensable. - -The middle of a fine day is the best time for the operation, which -should be commenced by removing the stock a little either to the right -or left of its usual position, which must be occupied by an empty hive, -from which the top board and comb-bars have been removed. The top -board of the full hive must then be shifted on one side sufficiently -to expose a single bar, which may be carefully withdrawn after the -attachments of the comb have been severed from the back and front -of the hire by a bent knife. Both sides of the comb must be rigidly -scrutinised, and any cluster of Bees gently dispersed with a feather, -until it becomes evident that the queen is not present, when it may be -placed in the empty hive. The same process must be repeated with each -successive comb until the queen is discovered and secured, when the -Bees may be either allowed to remain in the hive to which they have -been transferred, or replaced in their original domicile. Sometimes the -queen is not to be found on any of the combs, but may be detected among -the stragglers remaining in the hive. In practised hands her discovery -may be reckoned on with tolerable certainty during the first removal; -but if she succeed in escaping detection the process must be repeated -until she is secured. - -With _common hives_ or boxes driving is the best method to adopt; and -the Bees, having been expelled from their habitation, may be knocked -out on a cloth and searched over until the queen is discovered. - -Should the Bee-keeper be unable to perform the operation of driving, -fumigation may be resorted to and the queen secured whilst the Bees are -in a state of insensibility. - -Should the queen have been removed, and the Bees restored to their -original hive and position in the apiary, measures must now be taken -to introduce the Italian sovereign to her future subjects. The first -step will be carefully to remove the lid of the small box, replacing it -with a slip of perforated zinc without permitting the Bees to escape. -The whole must then be inverted over an opening in the top of the hive -containing the queenless stock, where it should remain undisturbed till -the next day, when the perforated zinc divider may be withdrawn, and -the union will be complete. The small box itself need not be removed -till the third day, when the Bees will be found to have quitted it. - -After the lapse of about thirty days young Ligurians may, probably, be -discovered taking their flight. - - - - -MULTIPLYING SWARMS OF LIGURIANS. - - -Presuming that the Ligurian queens are in bar hives, and that they -prove themselves fairly prolific mothers, let a number of similar bar -hives be provided, and into each of these, from time to time, during -the course of the summer, let there be carefully transferred from the -Ligurian stock a bar with comb attached, containing eggs and young Bees -in every stage of progress. - -It would be well that every full-grown Bee should be previously swept -off this comb back into the old hive, so as to prevent all danger of -fighting between them and the Bees of the other stocks to which the -comb is to be given. Then, in the middle of a warm and sunny day, -when the Bees are chiefly abroad, let this comb, carefully fixed in -an empty bar hive, be put in the place of any strong stock of common -Bees that may be available for the purpose. This stock may be removed -to some distance; but it would be well first so to disturb it as to -cause a good many more of the Bees to leave it than might happen to -be foraging in the fields; and, moreover to stop up its entrance till -the evening. The ether Bees would soon take possession of the empty -bar hive, and in three weeks' time replace their missing English queen -with a young artificially-reared Ligurian queen, whose progeny would, -in due course of time, become the sole possessors of the hive. The -English stocks chosen for this purpose must be in the same, or in a -very closely-adjoining apiary, otherwise the absence of Ligurian drones -at the proper season would prove fatal to the success of this plan of -increase. - -One Ligurian stock losing one bar only, from time to time, might in -this manner become the parent of a dozen stocks at least in the same -season; and the earliest of the young swarms (say those formed in -May), might also, in a warm spring, be made productive of two or three -swarms in the same manner, without becoming too much weakened. Indeed, -two bars may be taken every week out of the Ligurian stock during the -months of May, June, and July; and these swarms, artificially formed, -in the manner above detailed, may be worked during at least a whole -month, from the middle of June to the middle of July. - -One good Ligurian stock should be left pretty much to itself, so as to -encourage the propagation of drones. Still, even this stock might be -made to yield a few bars without in the least rendering the development -of drones; but no bars should be taken out till a fair number have been -seen abroad. Perhaps the best plan would be to make a swarm out of this -hive in the same artificial manner, so soon as many drones are hatched. -For drones which join swarms are generally (perhaps always) allowed -to remain alive till late in the season, whereas the earliest-hatched -drones are frequently destroyed in cold springs in their own hives. - -[Illustration] - - - - -BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR. - - -JANUARY. - -Little attention will be required during this month of cold and frost, -except upon a mild day, should such occur, of cleaning the floor-boards -with a dry brush, and looking well to the ventilation of boxes of all -kinds; for however trifling these matters may appear to those who are -inexperienced in Bee-management, the well-doing of many stocks during -the coming reason will, in a great measure, depend upon their being -carefully attended to; and the interior of the hives being clean and -free from damp at this time is quite as important as their having a -supply of food in store, for even with the latter, if the former be -neglected, the hives frequently perish. - -Food.--When the hives are very weak--that is, having only Two or three -pounds of honey in store, I would recommend a Lew pounds of syrup being -given--viz., one pound of loaf sugar, a quarter of a pint of water, -and a quarter of a pound of honey, simmered together over a slow fire -until the sugar is melted, and when cold given to the Bees, and at the -top of the hive if possible; but where they have a little richer store, -barley-sugar may be given instead of syrup. - -Shade.--Many persons have advocated the sun's rays in winter not -falling upon the hives. Mr. Taylor says:--"Where The hives stand -singly, I have always seen the advantages of fixing before each a -wooden screen, nailed to a post sunk in the ground, and large enough -to throw the whole front into shade. This does not interfere with the -coming-forth of the Bees at a proper temperature, and it supersedes the -necessity of shutting Them up when snow is on the ground. The screen -should be fixed a foot or two in advance, and so as to intercept the -sun's rays, which will be chiefly in winter towards the west side." - -Ventilation.--Where boxes are used ventilation cannot be too much -insisted upon, and a frequent examination of the floor-boards; and -where dampness and mouldiness are observed, they should be exchanged -for clean and dry ones. - -Enemies and Snow.--The titmouse must be sharply looked after and -destroyed as winter approaches, either by trapping, shooting, or -bird-lime. Mice are also very apt to take up their winter abode inside -the hives, where the single pedestal is not used; hence the necessity -of a frequent examination of the hives. - -See that the entrances of the hives are narrowed, and that during the -time snow remains upon the ground they are wholly closed, so that not a -single Bee can escape, for the sun shining upon the snow never fails -to bring the Bees out of their hives, and settling upon the snow, -they are immediately chilled, and die; but, upon the disappearance -of the snow, not an hour must be lost in unstopping the entrances, -and giving the Bees full liberty. This is very important, for, after -a confinement of ten or twelve days, which may sometimes be found -necessary, full liberty must be given them, upon the melting of the -snow, by unstopping the hives; and not only unstopping, but seeing that -the entrances are clear, and not filled up with dead Bees, which, after -a long confinement, will very frequently happen. Many a good stock has -perished for want of this precaution. - -Glasses and Hives.--The provident apiarian will now provide himself -with all the glasses and hives, of whatever kind he may fancy, either -of wood or straw, that he may be likely to require during the ensuing -season; and it is always better to have a few to spare than to have -a short supply, for it is not at all an unusual thing for a swarm to -fly away whilst sending about to procure a hive; when on the contrary, -had there been a good supply, much time and inconvenience would have -been saved, as well as the loss of the Bees prevented. Many cottagers -make their own hives during the winter evenings, and very praiseworthy -it is; the materials to make them cost very little. Straw is easily -obtained; brambles, also to sew them with abound everywhere; and the -method of making them is very easily acquired. I would recommend a -swarm never to be put into an old hive; the old hives will be useful as -covers to glasses, and for hiving second and third swarms that are to -be joined to others on the evening of the day they swarm. Where wood -hives are used a second time, great care must be taken to make them -thoroughly clean, and free from the eggs of moths. - - -FEBRUARY - -Very little attention will be required during this month beyond -looking to the coverings, and seeing that they be all sound, and -that no moisture comes upon the tops of the hives. Towards the end -of the month, particular attention must be given at this season in -endeavouring to keep the interior of the hives free from damp, which a -frequent changing of the floor-boards will tend very much to effect. -Indeed, after so long a confinement it becomes necessary, or the health -of the stocks will be much endangered. - -Feeding.--Food must be liberally supplied; but in so doing -much attention must be paid to neatness and cleanliness in its -administration, for when syrup is used the greatest care must be given -that it be not smeared about the hives and floor-boards, for it will -not only cause dampness in the hives, but induce fighting amongst the -Bees when they are able to fly abroad. - -Let the food be given, if possible at the top of the hive; if at the -bottom, not till after sunset, carefully stopping up the entrance of -the hive, and removing the vessel in which the food was given before -sunrise the next morning; for the appearance of the Aconite and Crocus -will not only delight our eyes, and gladden our hearts, but they -will also arouse our little favourites to life and activity; and as -the supplies of honey from these flowers at this early season will -be very small--sufficient only, perhaps, to create a desire for a -larger quantity, the feeding-pan, therefore, if allowed to remain at -the bottom of a weak hive, will be resorted to by all the Bees of the -apiary, causing much fighting and loss of life, and very probably the -destruction of the stock in which it had been placed. By feeding at -the top, all this may be avoided; not only the trouble of removing the -feeding-pan every morning, but the danger and loss certain to arise -from fighting. - -Stocks.--A careful examination of every stock should be made on a mild -day towards the end of the month; and where any doubt exists as to -the sufficiency of food in the hive to carry the Bees safely through -the spring, a supply should now be given, and I must still recommend -barley-sugar (where honey cannot readily be obtained) as the best food -that can be given. A good receipt for making it may be found in page -25; but it must always be remembered, that where barley-sugar is used -as food, the Bees should never be left, even for a day, without a -supply, either at the top or bottom of the hive; the former is always -preferable. It should be remembered, also, that it is much better to -give food before the stock is absolutely in want of it, than to wait -till its store of food is exhausted. There are many reasons for this, -well known to every practical apiarian. - -Promoting Early Breeding.--Binding the hives neatly over with haybands -would be as little trouble and expense as anything. The end of the -month will be the proper time for trying this experiment; and I have -little doubt but, if carefully attended to, the result will prove to be -all that is desired. The entrances to the hives, if large, should be -reduced, so as to leave room only sufficient for the easy ingress and -egress of the Bees. - -Water.--It must not be forgotten to place water in the vicinity of the -hives, as directed at page 43. - -Enemies.--The chief enemies to guard against at this time are mice and -birds; cold; if the floor-boards and hives are dry, affects them but -little. - -Hives of Comb.--Let the hives of comb in which swarms of the last year -have died be carefully preserved for the purpose of putting swarms of -the coming season into them. The best method of keeping such hives will -be, after having cleared them of the dead Bees, to hang them up in a -dry place out of the reach of mice or rats. The advantage which a swarm -put into a hive of clean dry comb has over one that is put into an -empty hive is very great indeed, and known only to those persons who -have experienced it. - -Pollen.--By the end of the month our little pets will have begun their -labours for another year, in collecting pollen from the Winter Aconites -and the early kinds of Crocus, and, if the weather is not very severe, -from the Elms also. Some years since I was curious to learn from what a -grey or ash-coloured pollen was obtained, which the Bees brought home -in rather large quantities very early in the season, at a time when the -Aconites only could be seen in flower; but happening to pass beneath -some Elm trees on a bright day, to my surprise I heard the hum of Bees, -and on looking closely I observed several very busily employed, which -induced me to take a branch home, and by comparing under the microscope -the pollen, which it shed abundantly on being placed in a warm room, -with that brought by the Bees, I found them to be alike, which fully -satisfied me in this matter. - -Pedestals.--Where the stocks are placed upon pedestals of wood it will -be well to look to them, for I have lately heard of some sad disasters -arising from the want of this little attention. It is about an inch -below the surface of the ground that the mischief takes place, and when -once begun, goes on rapidly, except good oak has been used. - - -MARCH. - -Our little favourites, by the appearance of the early spring flowers, -and the return of milder weather, are again aroused into life and -activity; but it must always be remembered that the most trying time -for them is from the middle of February to the end of March; for none -but well-stored stocks can bear up against the great inequality betwixt -the internal demand and the external supply of this period. The winter, -to be sure, has been very cold, which is generally in their favour; -for but little, if any, evil is to be apprehended from a cold winter, -though much may arise from a mild one; as, during the latter, the -stock of honey is often exhausted, from its inducing the Bees to be in -action, without affording them any resources beyond their own stores. - -Diseases.--This is the month in which dysentery and other disorders -make their appearance amongst the Bees; but cleanliness and timely -supplies of food are the best remedies, and which are always found to -prevent it. - -Spring-feeding, however, must be done sparingly; for if the Bees have -had a sufficient winter's supply, feeding will only be required on a -small scale, and to those that are weak, it being chiefly intended as -a stimulant to promote early breeding. A hive that has less than 5 lbs. -of honey in it is a weak one. - -The importance of feeding is very great; for languor and death, says -Dr. Bevan, are less frequently to be ascribed to disease than to the -want of timely food. - -Hives.--The time has now fully arrived for all careful apiarians to -possess themselves of as many hives, glasses, boxes, bee-dresses, -&c., as they are likely to require during the coming season; and to -those who prefer the use of straw hives I would say (and that most -emphatically), Never put a swarm into an old hive. Mr. Huish has said, -and with much truth, that old hives are generally so overrun with -vermin of an obnoxious character to Bees, that, even should the swarm -condescend to remain in them, the ensuing winter will place the hive in -such a ruinous state, that the Bees will forsake it in search of a more -salubrious domicile, or the contents of the hive will be destroyed by -the insects. Boxes that have been already tenanted should be cleaned -most carefully, and boiling water from the spout a tea-kettle poured -over the joints where the eggs of the wax moth--that redoubted enemy of -the Bees--will very probably have been deposited. - -Haybands.--I have put in practice, with my own Bees, what I recommended -last month--namely, covering some of my hives with haybands. The good, -should any be found to arise from it, in promoting early breeding, -shall be communicated in due course. - -Cleaning Floor-boards.--When performing this operation, should the -hives be found to be at all damp or mouldy, take the precaution of -raising them a little for a few hours on a dry day. - -Snow.--Should we after mild weather have snow, it will be necessary -to keep the entrances of the hives stopped whilst it remains upon the -ground, or the loss of life will be very great, which, at this season, -should be more especially guarded against. - -Examination.--Immediately upon the disappearance of snow, every hive -should be carefully examined, and clean floor-boards supplied wherever -the least dampness is observed. - -Bees Gathering Pollen.--Bees may now be seen upon a bright day in the -Aconites and early kinds of Crocuses, collecting the little pollen -and honey which they afford; and it is but little indeed--only just -sufficient to arouse the workers to activity, and the queens to -depositing their eggs: therefore, without careful and constant feeding, -death by starvation must follow, for I imagine that not one stock in -ten has sufficient honey in store to support it through the winter and -early spring. - -Forsaking Hives.--Where the population is low, and little or no food -in store, the Bees are very likely, upon a fine and mild day towards -the end of the month, to forsake their hives entirely, and to join -themselves to more populous and better-stored communities. This -desertion, when it happens towards the end of April, is frequently -mistaken for an early swarm. The only means of prevention is to keep -them well supplied with food; but even this will not, in all cases, -keep them from leaving their hives. - -Wasps.--It will be well, during the present and the next month, to -be looking for queen wasps, and destroying every one that makes its -appearance. A garden syringe is the most useful thing I have ever found -to effect their destruction, for if discharged at them, it brings them -to the ground, and the foot then finishes the business. - -Buying Stocks.--March is a good time for purchasing stocks, for those -who are desirous to become Bee-keepers; and there is sufficient -encouragement, I think, to induce many persons to engage in it, -for their cultivation, if properly managed, is attended with very -considerable advantage, much more, indeed, than what is generally -supposed, and would not be by any means a contemptible consideration -with even those who may fill a superior rank in the rural population of -our country. - - -APRIL. - -April may be considered the first month of the apiarian's year, a -month of busy preparation for the coming honey season and its many -pleasing occupations. A good supply of new straw hives (where they -are used) is supposed to be already in hand, with glasses and covers, -depriving-hives, adapting-boards, Bee-dresses for the operator and an -assistant, and indeed, of everything that will be required during the -season. - -Feeding.--I must again press upon all persons who have weak stocks -the necessity of feeding. The Bees are beginning to bestir themselves -when the sun shines warm; and inexperienced Bee-keepers are apt to -think that their stocks are now past danger, and so take no more care -of them. But the truth is, that the early spring months are the most -dangerous of all; many stocks that have stood the winter die in the -spring, which a few ounces even of food would prevent. There is nothing -to be gathered in the fields till April, and in cold late seasons not -muck before even May. Stocks should be watched well in spring, and weak -ones fed liberally. As soon as they begin to stir a little food should -be given them every other day, or thereabouts, until they refuse to -take it, for they will neglect the food given them as soon as they can -gather honey. - -Method of Feeding.--The best manner of giving food to Bees in a common -straw hive is to put it into a dinner-plate, cover it with a piece of -writing paper thickly perforated, and place it under the hive; but -should there not be sufficient room for the plate without touching the -combs, the hive may be raised upon a wooden hoop, the exact size of the -hive, and about 2 inches deep, or upon a piece cut from the bottom of -an old straw hive. The food must be given after sunset, and the plate -removed by sunrise the next morning. The entrance must be stopped while -the food remains in the hive; a piece of soft paper answers remarkably -well for this purpose. - -Water.--This must be supplied to the Bees immediately, for it is in -the spring that they have the greatest occasion for it. The plan that -I have adopted is to have a trough of wood, or stone, 18 inches long, -12 inches wide, and 6 inches deep, sunk in the ground in the immediate -vicinity of the apiary, with a piece of thin wood, thickly perforated -with small holes, made to fit loosely into it. This perforated wood, -when the trough is filled with water, will float upon its surface, -and save the Bees from drowning--a mode of death causing the loss of -numbers should they, for want of this little accommodation, be obliged -to go to an open cistern or pool. - -Hives.--It is now quite time to have a supply of hives for the coming -season, where new ones are required; and where old ones are to be used, -to have them well cleaned. It is also a good time to paint those hives -that are occupied--it will greatly improve their appearance, as well as -tend to preserve them. A well-made hive, painted before the Bees are -put into it, and once every other year afterwards, will last uninjured -for upwards, of twenty years; indeed, I have one at the present time -that has stood even much longer. They may be painted after six o'clock -in the evening without danger to the operator or inconvenience to the -Bees; of course, stopping the mouth of the hive for the time. I find -stone or straw colour to be the best, as absorbing less heat than green -or any dark colour. Perhaps, on this account, white would be best, but -the strong reflected light from it is very objectionable. - -Floor-boards.--It will be well to give the floor-boards a final -cleaning for the season, and the middle of a bright day will be the -best time for doing it; and, at the same time, any pieces of comb -that during the winter may have fallen from the top of the hives, and -are fastened by the Bees to the bottom of the combs that are in their -proper places, should be removed. - -Cutting out Old Combs.--This is also the best time to remove a leaf or -two of comb from old hives, perhaps the two outermost ones, but not any -more. The box hives are admirably adapted for this operation; still, -with a proper knife (the one figured in page 57), it may easily be -effected in the straw hive. - -Putting on Glasses, &c.--It is very probable that at the end of the -month some of the most populous hives may require supering, as it is -termed, but I would advise its not being done too soon; indeed, not -till the Bees have shown evident signs of want of room, for it is -exceedingly desirable that the stock should be in such a state as to -ascend into the super immediately upon its being placed upon the stock -hive. - -Guide-combs.--I would recommend guide-combs being fixed in glasses of -every kind that are to be placed either on hives or boxes. The Bees are -induced thereby to commence working in them sooner than they otherwise -would do; and it must always be remembered, that simply putting on a -glass, a box, or a small hive, will not prevent swarming, except the -Bees commence working in it, which a small piece of comb fixed at -the top induces them to do more readily. Upon each of the side-bars, -nearest the centre one, a small piece of comb should be fixed. This -is easily effected by heating a common flat-iron, slightly warming -the bars with it, then melting a little Bees-wax upon it. The comb -is now drawn quickly across the heated iron, and held down upon the -bar, to which it firmly adheres, if properly managed. These pieces of -guide-comb need not be more than 2 or 3 inches in diameter. Care should -be taken that the pitch, or inclination of the cells, is upwards from -the centre of each comb. Drone-celled combs for this purpose are to -be avoided, as well as those with elongated cells. Glasses will be -provided, and guide-combs fixed in them also. - -Pollen.--This is not a busy month for the apiarian only, but for his -Bees as well in bringing in pollen. Mr. Golding tells us that the -neighbourhood of Willows is of great advantage to the Bees in early -spring. Should a few fine days accompany their flowering, many hives -will be enabled to ward off the impending famine which but too often -then threatens. He says that from the 20th to the 30th of March, in -1830, the weather was so favourable as to enable the Bees to make an -extraordinary collection. Single hives in some days gained in weight -upwards of 3 lbs. each, and worked in wax where room was given as -vigorously as at midsummer. The spring of 1841 was a very similar one; -and he says that his hives on the 16th of March of that year gained -from 2 to 3 lbs. each during the day. - -The whole tribe of Crowsfoot are now making their appearance, all of -which are eagerly sought after by the Bees, but more especially the -Pilewort (_Ranunculus ficaria_), which affords them such an abundance -of pollen during the months of March and April, and which abounds in -meadows, pastures, and hedge-banks. Seeing an abundance of it carried -into a hive is a sure proof that the stock is in a healthy and thriving -state; but let it Be remembered that pollen has nothing whatever to do -with supplying the Bees with food, for they will die from starvation -with the combs filled with pollen, for it is only in the larvæ or grub -state that they eat it: therefore, if the stocks have not a store of -honey, go on to give barley-sugar. - -Young Bees.--The population of every healthy stock of Bees is now -rapidly increasing, and numbers of young ones may be seen upon every -sunny day crowding the entrances of the hives to exercise their wings -for the first time, which they may be observed to do with the greatest -caution, running from side to side of the alighting-board before -venturing to fly. The imperfect nymphs, also, are strewed upon the -hives during the night to be carried away by the Bees as soon as the -hour of labour commences. This circumstance also indicates a rapidly -increasing population. A very large quantity of food is consumed by the -young Bees while in the larvæ or maggot state, which draws very heavily -upon the store of the food of the hive. It, therefore,, behoves the -apiarian to look attentively to all weak stocks, and more especially to -swarms of the last year, and to let them have a regular supply of food; -and, for those who like but little trouble in feeding, dry barley-sugar -is, unquestionably, the best mode in which it can be administered; it -may be given either at the top or bottom of the hive, for it does not, -like liquid food, attract robbers to the hives that are supplied with -it. - -Drone Bees.--Drone Bees usually make their appearance towards the -middle or the end of this month; their first appearance is very -gratifying to the Bee-keeper, for it proves to him that his stocks are -in a healthy and prosperous condition. It is said that the celebrated -apiarian Bonner was always so delighted at their first appearance, that -he made the day one of festivity and rejoicing for himself and all his -family. - -Robbers.--As considerable robberies frequently take place in this month -among the Bees, attention is required to discover if any hives are -attacked; and when it is found to be the case, it will be necessary to -narrow the entrance of the hive, so that only one or two Bees at most -can go in at the same time. The weak stocks, in general, are those -that suffer from pillage. Robber Bees may easily be distinguished from -others, for they fly rapidly round the hive, and hover before the -entrance for some time before alighting; and when they venture to do -so they are generally seized by some of the sentinels which guard the -entrance. - -Queen Wasps.--The destruction of queen wasps, which are now beginning -to make their appearance, will prove the best security against their -progeny, those formidable enemies of the Bee. In April and May they are -very easily captured, and every one now destroyed would probably have -been the founder of a nest, which may be computed at 30,000 at the least. - -Moths.--Moths are by far the most dangerous enemies the Bees have to -contend with. It is the caterpillars of these moths which gnaw and -destroy the combs; and they would soon be ruined by these insects, if -the Bees did not offer the greatest opposition to their ravages. The -perfect insect (_Galleria cerreana_ and _Galleria alvearia_) may be -seen fluttering about the hive at sunset, from April to October, and -should be promptly destroyed whenever observed. - - -MAY. - -The most interesting as well as the most active month in the apiarian's -calendar has now commenced; food for his little favourites abounds -in every direction, and no fear need now be entertained of famine. -The population of the hives will have increased considerably, and -drones by this time are making their appearance, which proves that the -stocks are in a healthy and vigorous state, and should be a subject of -congratulation to every Bee-keeper. "Early drones, early swarms," is a -maxim, the truth of which every experienced apiarian is well acquainted -with. - -To those persons who are managing their Bees upon the depriving system, -the time will now have arrived for supplying each stock with a small -hive, box, or bell-glass; and should the season prove a favourable one, -the supply, also, of a second may be found necessary before the end of -the month. - -Method of Placing the Bell-glass, Box, or Small Hive upon the Improved -Cottage Hive.--Take the moveable piece of straw-work from the top of -the hive (see page 8), and place it upon the adapting board (see page -8); then put the bell-glass, small hive, or box (see page 8), upon this -adapter, and cover the whole with a milk-pan to defend them from wet. -Should a bell-glass be preferred, it must be covered with something -that will effectually exclude light. A cover of straw is, perhaps, the -best. It is very desirable to fix a piece of clean comb inside the -glass, and this may very easily be done by warming the perforated zinc -tube, which is sold with the glasses, and then pressing the piece of -comb upon it. Should the comb reach from the top to the bottom of the -glass, so much the better; for the Bees will then begin to work upon it -immediately. - -Those persons whose Bees are now in common straw hives may, if they -please, commence with the above system at once. Bet them in the middle -of a fine clear day, with a strong sharp knife, cut out from the top -of the hive a piece of the straw-work, 4 inches in diameter, and then -place over the opening the adapting board, &c., as directed above. -Should the combs be a little broken at the top of the hive it matters -not. Indeed, it is rather to be wished that they should be so; for the -Bees in repairing them are induced to carry their work upwards in the -glass or box that is given them. This operation may be done without -any protection whatever by an experienced person; for if done at a -proper time and well managed, not a Bee will take wing. All operations, -except joining swarms, should be performed on a fine clear day, and -between the hours of twelve and two o'clock. At the same time, such -operations are done with much less annoyance to the Bees, as well -as with less chance of danger to the operator. I generally perform -all the operations required in this system without the defence even -of a pair of gloves; but I would not recommend any person to do so -until he has had many years' experience in the management of Bees; -for being perfectly defended in every part against their stings, -gives that coolness and confidence to the operator upon which the -happy accomplishment of his intentions so much depends. Coolness and -confidence on the part of the operator are essential qualifications; -for anything approaching to hurry irritates Bees exceedingly. Indeed, -the hand ought never to be hastily removed from one position to -another. "Quietness," says Dr. Bevan, "is the surest protection against -being stung." - -Defence.--The best defence that I have found is a mask of wire similar -to a fencing mask, and a pair of very thick worsted gloves. It should -be remembered that nothing is either more offensive or more irritating -to Bees than the human breath: therefore, the breathing upon them must -at all times be most carefully avoided. - -Covering for Glasses.--When the Bees are beginning to work in a glass, -a cold night generally obliges them to forsake their newly-made combs, -and to discontinue their labours, which are seldom resumed till the -middle of the next day. To prevent this delay, I would recommend the -space between the glass and its cover to be filled with fine tow or -wool, the temperature of the glass being thereby kept up, and the Bees -enabled to carry on their labours without interruption. Wool is to be -preferred from its not being so good a conductor of heat as tow. - -Hives.--The time has now arrived for those persons who are wishing -their Bees to swarm to have a supply of hives in readiness; and where -straw hives are used, I would recommend new ones in all cases, except -where a swarm of the last year has died, and the combs still remaining -in the hive, the combs being dry and free from mould. A hive of this -kind is a great help to a swarm; for one treated in this manner will -generally be found Better than one a fortnight or three weeks earlier -that has been put into an empty hive. - -Depriving-Hives, or Supers.--It will now be time to have small hives, -boxes or glasses, in readiness to place upon stock hives. Each box, or -glass, should have a few pieces of guide-comb neatly fixed in it; but -refrain from putting them on until there are evident signs of want of -room. This may be ascertained by the Bees thickening at the entrance, -and by a loud hum inside; for if put on too early it will retard the -hatching of the brood, as well as give the Bees an unwillingness -to enter it at all. The most desirable time for placing a glass or -box upon a stock hive, is the exact time when they will enter it -immediately; but the knowledge of this, I am aware, is attended with -some difficulty. I have always found, that by giving a glass too early -in the season, Bees appear to take a dislike to it, and will swarm -rather than enter it. When I have been able to put a glass upon a -crowded hive at about nine o'clock on the morning of a warm day, it -has scarcely ever failed to be filled with Bees immediately. Be the -super of wood, glass, or straw, a small piece of guide-comb is a great -inducement to the Bees to begin working in it at once. - -Ventilation.--It has been my practice for some years to give all the -ventilation possible to my stocks in boxes, by withdrawing all the -slides about October, and keeping them open to the end of April: for -then no condensed vapour can injure either the combs or the Bees, and -then shutting them for a week or two before putting on the glasses, so -that, upon again opening them, the Bees immediately take possession of -the supers, and begin their work in them. - -Driving Bees from one Hive to Another.--I am frequently applied to -by beginners for the best plan of removing a stock of Bees, at this -season, from an old hive to some fancy one they have chanced to meet -with, and I have, in all cases, said that it is a plan I have never -either adopted or recommended. Let the Bees remain in the old hive, -and if it be too unsightly to be tolerated, have a tasty cover of wood -or zinc made to fit it and let them swarm, and put the swarm into the -new hive. If a weak one, join the second swarm to it; if not, hive the -second swarm in the usual manner, and then in September, either by -driving or fumigating the Bees in the old hive, join them to the second -swarm. - -Swarms.--Those persons who are anxious to commence Bee-keeping by -purchasing swarms, must now provide themselves with such kinds of hives -as they are wishing to see their Bees placed in, and send them to the -persons of whom they have agreed to purchase, that the Bees maybe hived -into them at the time of swarming. Should it be straw hives that are -chosen, let there be no sticks placed withinside them for the Bees to -fasten their combs to, for they cause them much trouble in forming -the combs, and render the extraction of the combs almost impossible. -Let there be no sugared ale nor honey put inside the hive, but let it -be as clean and dry as possible; and when it is fixed where it is to -remain let there be no mortar or clay put round to fasten it to the -floor-board--the Bees themselves will do this more effectually. Clay or -mortar tends very much to decay the hives by retaining moisture, and is -a harbour for moths and other insects. On the depriving system, a hive -may be expected to stand for fifteen or even twenty years, if properly -managed. - -Purchasers should endeavour to obtain the very earliest swarms in May, -if there be any, but on no account to have them after the 14th or 15th -of June; and it is very important to observe, that whenever a swarm is -purchased, it must be removed to the place in which it is to remain -upon the evening of the day it swarmed; for should its removal be -delayed even till the evening of the next day, the combs will in all -probability be broken, and the stock destroyed. Let it be remembered, -that the prosperity of the hive will much (perhaps entirely) depend -upon its being finally placed upon the evening of the day it swarmed. -It must be a very peculiar kind of day to induce a first swarm to -emigrate. It must be a balmy still day, and something besides that I -cannot discover, for there may be several days to all appearance alike, -and upon one of these days everybody's Bees shall swarm, whilst not -another swarm, perhaps, shall be heard of on any other day for some -time. This late swarming will be a sad disappointment to those who are -commencing Bee-keeping this summer, who indeed, are not a few; and I -congratulate each one of them, for they will find in the management and -observation of their Bees a constant and increasing source of interest -and amusement. - -Premature Swarms, or the whole population of a hive leaving it, and -alighting at a distance from it; in the usual manner:--This generally -happens early in May. The best plan that can be adopted in these cases -is to unite the Bees to another stock, if they should not join one of -themselves; for if put into a hive they generally leave it or die. The -cause usually arises from poverty, or the old age of the queen. - -Should we have a dry May, swarms may be expected at the end of the -month: therefore it will be good policy to have every arrangement for -their reception made in good time; but June must be the month for -honey. "None in June, none afterwards, depend on it." The honey harvest -comes on all at once, and very seldom lasts longer than a fortnight, so -that additional room should be in readiness if required. - -Enemies.--Queen wasps are now showing themselves, and should be sought -after and destroyed, both by gardeners and apiarians. A few mild days -in February usually tempt them out, when the cold which follows kills -them, or renders them so feeble as to be easily captured; but now they -come at once from their hiding-places to a temperature of 60°. The -destruction of the queens, therefore, is important both to the gardener -as well as to the apiarian; and, as soon as they are seen to alight, -discharge a syringe full of water upon them, which is sure to bring -them to the ground, when they may be crushed easily with the foot. -Watch carefully for moths. Should the Bees of any hive appear inactive -about this time, or should they not be seen to carry in pellets of -pollen, whilst others are doing it, and this inaction continue for -eight or ten days, lose no time in examining the hive; and should the -moths have begun their work of destruction, which may be known by -seeing their combs joined together by their silken webs, cut away the -combs affected with a sharp knife, and the hive may perhaps be saved. - -The house sparrow may also be ranked amongst the enemies of Bees, for I -have observed, for the last four or five years, the female birds flying -from the ground up to the mouth of the hive, and catching the Bees just -before, or as they take wing, and away with them to their young ones -when their nest is nigh the apiary. I have seen as many as six or eight -journeys made in a quarter of an hour by the female bird only. The male -appears to take no part in it. I have never witnessed the like at any -other time but when the birds have young to provide for; therefore it -would be well to have all the nests in the immediate neighbourhood of -the apiary destroyed. - -Feeding.--Weak stocks must still continue to have barley-sugar supplied -to them, for during the prevalence of north and easterly winds but -little food can be collected. - -Pollen.--Those stocks that are alive will be carrying in pollen most -abundantly of a golden yellow colour, which is obtained from Crowsfoot, -_Ranunculus ficaria_, and _Ranunculus bulbosa_, but more especially -from the former, it being the earliest as well as the most abundant; -for next to the Dandelion, it makes our meadows brilliant. It is -Shakspeare's "Cuckoo-buds of yellow hue," and greatly indeed are our -little favourites indebted to it for a supply of food for their early -progeny. The Crocus lasts but a short time, and is met with only in -gardens, while this covers almost every meadow in the kingdom during -the months of March and April: therefore, how little advantage arises -from cultivating Bee-flowers, as they are frequently called, for it is -the fields, and the fields alone, that supply their store of honey. Sow -twenty acres of White Clover within a mile of them and leave it for -seed, and in the autumn twenty or thirty acres of Buckwheat, and much -benefit will arise; but the little that a garden affords them is almost -valueless. - - -JUNE. - -It will now be time to place _glasses_ or _small hives_ upon such -stocks as are not intended to swarm, and it will be well not to do it -until the bees begin to show evident signs of want of room; for then -they will ascend immediately into the glasses, and commence working; -but on the contrary, when they are put on too early--that is, before -the stock hives are full with Bees, they will not go into them, but -frequently swarm in preference; and besides, opening the hive to put on -the glass before it is full with. Bees causes a circulation of cold -air through its centre, which tends greatly to retard the hatching of -the brood. - -Guide-combs.--A glass should never be put on without having a piece or -two of guide-comb placed at the top, which may easily be effected by -first warming the zinc tube, and then attaching the comb to it whilst -in that state. - -Glasses.--For the method of placing glasses, small hives, &c., on the -Improved Cottage Hive see page 54, and for the treatment of swarms -generally, taking honey, expelling the Bees from glasses, &c., see page -56. - -Bar Hives.--Persons who have possessed themselves of these excellent -hives are by this time anxiously looking for swarms to put into them, -or quite as anxiously watching the progress of those already at work in -them. The guide-combs being properly fixed will insure their working -regularly upon the bars of the stock box, but not quite so surely upon -those of the upper one; for, notwithstanding every precaution being -taken to prevent it, they will sometimes commence working their combs -from the top of the stock box, which forms the floor of the upper one. -This must be attentively watched for the first three or four days after -opening the communication between the boxes, and any comb observed in -this position must be immediately removed. - -Artificial Swarms.--The present is a good time for obtaining artificial -swarms, and where any form of the "Bar Hives" is used, the process is -very simple, and may be thus effected:--From ten to twelve o'clock, on -a bright morning, remove the board from the top of the parent hive; -select a bar, the comb on which contains both eggs and brood, and if a -royal cell, all the better, but this is not important; place the bar -with comb in some convenient place, so that it is neither bruised nor -separated from the bar; then turn up the parent hive, after having -fastened down the top, and place the one intended for the new swarm -upon it, observing that the junction is perfect; then, by a continuous -gentle tapping upon the parent hive for a few minutes, a portion of the -Bees will have ascended into the hive. Remove the parent hive 60 or -100 yards, placing it upon a fresh floor-board, and place the new hive -exactly in the place of the old one, and upon the same floor-board; -and, as quickly as possible, introduce the bar of comb filled with -eggs and brood into its centre, replace the top, and endeavour to have -the exterior of the hive as little altered in appearance as may be; it -will then be found that the few Bees driven into the new hive, with -the number returning to it that were out at work, with some that may -come from the parent hive, will altogether make a fair-sized swarm. -The parent hive will, in all probability, give another swarm in about -fourteen days. - -Swarming.--The time for swarms is now very nigh at hand, if we are to -have any; but in weak stocks it is not very desirable. However, if they -come, the best must be made of them. By all means let the new swarm be -placed where it is to remain as soon as it is settled in its new hive, -which rarely exceeds ten minutes. This will save the Bees much loss -of time, as well as numbers of them their lives. When there is dull -and cold weather in March and April, and even May, many stocks become -weak and feeble, and numbers entirely perish; therefore, swarming, -generally, must be later than usual; and those persons who are wishing -to prevent it altogether must not be satisfied by simply placing boxes -or glasses upon their stocks, but they must also see that the Bees -take possession of them, and the best method to secure this is not to -put the supers on until the Bees begin to be a little inconvenienced -for want of room; and then, by placing a bit or two of guide-comb, as -before directed, into the super, the Bees will enter it at once and -commence working. - -Queenless Stocks.--It is not at all unusual at this season to see -the Bees of some hives, although possessing a good store of honey, -quite inactive, carrying in no pollen, and basking in the sun at the -mouth of the hive, but still giving smart resistance to a robber if -he ventures to make an entry. This arises from the old age or death -of the queen; and, if the Bees are numerous,, will go on in the same -manner nearly through the summer. But, if the numbers be few, robbers -will attack them, and little or no resistance will be offered; but -frequently the Bees themselves will assist in carrying off the store -to the pirates' home, where the queenless Bees will meet with a ready -welcome. The best method to adopt in such a case is to introduce a -piece of comb from a strong hive, which contains both brood and eggs, -and ultimately do very well. In Taylor's Bar Hive this process is very -easily effected, by merely taking a bar of comb from one hive and -introducing it into another, or a piece of comb, with eggs and brood, -may be fixed in a bell-glass, and placed upon the queenless hive. - -Queen Wasps.--To destroy these "Bead's Syringe" is a very useful -instrument, for by discharging it at them when they alight, it is sure -to bring them to the ground, when the foot may easily be put upon them. -It is important to every apiarian and gardener, but more especially the -former, to destroy all they can at this season. - -Early Breeding.--Many plans have been adopted to effect this very -desirable object, and none entirely without success, but variously, -according to the means used. The hives that have been simply bound with -haybands are certainly earlier than those that have not; but those that -have been covered with loose sacking, and then bound tightly round with -oil-cloth, so that when the coverings were taken off for a few minutes -the outside of the hive felt quite warm, are earlier still; whilst -those placed in a greenhouse are earlier than either; but the earliest -are those covered with fermenting stable-litter; yes, literally placed -in the centre of a hotbed, leaving only a passage for the ingress and -egress of the Bees. - -Proper Time for Taking Honey.--It is probable that in favourable -situations, towards the close of the present month, some glasses, -small hives, or boxes of honey may be in a sufficiently forward state -to allow of their being taken off, which may be known by their being -filled with honey, and the combs all sealed up; or they may remain -till those placed beneath them are also sealed up. Upon very strong -and populous hives, in a good season, it is necessary to place even a -third; but this must be removed with great caution, and certainly not -before the end of August, or the beginning of September, and not then -unless the parent hive contains full 20 lbs. of honey. - - -JULY. - -Swarming is frequently much later than usual if May be wet and cold, -and the stocks be very weak. It is very probable that second and -third swarms will be coming in July, and should it prove so, we would -recommend their being united to late swarms, or three or four of them -being put together. - -Returning Swarms.--The necessity for returning swarms in some seasons, -I think, will be apparent to every one at all acquainted with Bee -management, and, indeed, in some cases of returning swarms; but this -cannot be done with any chance of success but in a bar hive, and there -the operator is sure to succeed. The manner of performing the operation -will be as follows:--As soon as the swarm has left the parent hive, -proceed immediately to open the hive and take out the bars, one by one, -and cutting from each comb every royal cell that is seen upon it, and -replacing the comb again in the hive. The cell in which the queen Bee -is born is entirely of a different construction from that of either the -drone or the common Bees. The cell of the latter is placed horizontally -in the hive, and that of the queen is placed perpendicularly; that of -the common Bee is an exact hexagon, and that of the queen circular; -besides, the cell of the queen is always fixed at the sides of the -combs, and generally upon that near the middle of the hive. This -operation of removing the royal cells will take about five minutes; -and, when done, return the swarm immediately to the hive. The old queen -which led it off, finding by this process that there is no royal brood -left in the hive to succeed her, will not again attempt to leave it. -Persons who have never practised this method will be surprised to find -how easily it is accomplished; for the parent hive will at this time be -found to be almost depopulated from the numbers that have left it in -the swarm, and those that are out collecting. In some cases the help -of a puff or two of tobacco-smoke may be useful, should the few Bees -left be angry, or the operator feel at all timid. The readiest way of -returning the swarm will be to lay a board upon the floor-board of the -hive, and parallel with it, upon which, by a smart and sudden movement, -shake the swarm, and as nigh to the entrance of the parent hive as can -be done conveniently, and with the finger, or a piece of wood, guide a -few Bees to the entrance, and the remainder will follow immediately. - -Glasses and Small Hives.--The proper time for opening the communication -between the boxes, as well as for putting glasses or small hives upon -swarms that are in the Improved Cottage Hive, must in some measure -depend upon the season. In a good season it may be done from the -eighteenth to the twenty-first day after the time of their being hived. -In some seasons I have had a glass holding 10 lbs. of honeycomb filled -in less than a fortnight from the time of putting it on. When this -happens, a box or small hive should be placed between it and the hive -as directed at page 22; or, in all probability, a second swarm will -be thrown off. To prevent this, every possible means must be taken; -for the swarm coming so late in the season, as this must consequently -be, is generally of no value, except to unite to others, and the stock -itself is so weakened by it that it seldom lives through the following -winter. - -Melted Combs.--Shading should always be had recourse to in such weather -as that of the middle of July, and more especially so for swarms of the -year. In those cases where it has; unfortunately taken place, it will -be better to shade immediately and nothing more, leaving the rest that -is to be done entirely to the Bees. - -Shading.--Should the weather prove very hot and sultry, it will be -necessary to shade newly-hived swarms for a few hours in a day, say -from ten till two o'clock; a green bough answers very well for this -purpose--that from the fir trees, perhaps, is the best, as well as the -most durable. I have more than once seen the combs of a newly-hived -swarm so heated by a July sun as to fall from the top of the hive, and -the honey to run in a stream from its entrance, consequently the stocks -were ruined. - -Wasps.--I am quite sure that it is needful for us all to use every -means in our power for the destruction of these sad enemies to our -Bees. As "prevention is always better than cure," that object is -attained by capturing the queen wasps at this time; and, indeed, as -long as they can be seen. Some persons recommend shooting them. I -have always found a garden-syringe to be a very useful thing; for if -filled with water and discharged at them, it seldom fails to bring -them to the ground, but it matters not by what means so that they are -destroyed. - - -AUGUST. - -I have already sufficiently insisted upon the necessity of uniting -second and third swarms, so that, amongst my readers, not even one -second or third swarm can be found by itself. It should be impressed -upon the mind of every apiarian, "that the larger the colony at the -outset, the better the Bees will work, and the more prosperous it will -become." A stock weak at the outset _never_ does well. The method of -returning, as given at page 53, is very simple, and may be accomplished -in a few minutes, even by the most inexperienced person. - -Returning Swarms.--Returning first or second swarms to their parent -hive, is not only attended with much trouble, and, generally, with a -failure of the object desired, but also with much loss of time to the -Bees, and that at a season of the year when every hour is of importance -to them. A swarm left a Nutt's hive on the 3rd of June; the queen was -captured, and the swarm returned. Within a few days of the time before -mentioned it came out again, and was treated in a similar manner; -and so it continued to go on until nearly the end of the month, when -the swarm, instead of being returned to the parent hive, as had been -done so many times before, was hived into an improved cottage hive, -where it did very well; but during the whole time that swarming was -going on, which occupied three weeks, and these the best three weeks -of the year, working was entirely suspended (which is always the -case), and not a pound of honey was stored; whereas, had the swarm -been put in the cottage hive in the first instance, from 15 to 20 -lbs. of honey would, in all probability, have been collected by it in -that time. An apiarian, in Norfolk, some years since, had a stock of -Bees in a favourite hive, which, very much against his wishes, and -notwithstanding every means having been taken to prevent it, sent out a -swarm. He captured the queen, and returned the swarm; after a few days -the swarm came forth again, and was treated in the same manner, and it -went on to swarm for either seven or nine times, and was returned as -many times, except the last, when it was put into a new hive. Thirteen -queens were captured and destroyed during this process, very nearly a -month was spent in swarming and being returned, and, consequently, no -work was done during that time; the result of which was that the best -part of the season having been lost neither swarm nor stock was of any -value. I would, therefore, say, Let all be done that can be done to -prevent swarming, by giving room and ventilation, which has very rarely -failed; but if, after every means has been used to prevent swarming, -a swarm should come off, never attempt returning it, but hive it by -itself in the usual manner. - -Early Swarms.--Now, as early swarms appear to be so very desirable, it -may be asked, What are the most likely means of insuring them? And, in -reply to this question, I would say, Leave the stocks rich in store in -the autumn, the contents of each hive weighing, at least, from 20 to 25 -lbs., and let the population also of each hive be very numerous; if it -be not so, add the Bees from weak hives into it. - -Autumnal Unions.--Where second and third swarms have been hived by -themselves, they will generally be found too poor to live through the -winter, even with feeding; and, where this has been done, they may be -put two or three together in the manner directed at page 60. - -Taking Honey.--Those persons who have been so fortunate as to get their -glasses filled with honey will now be preparing to take them off; but -I would recommend every one to do it with great caution; and not only -first to weigh the matter well in their own minds, but also to weigh -their _hives_, and if it can be satisfactorily proved that they will -contain 20 lbs. of honey each when the glasses are removed, all well; -but if not, let the glass or box remain upon the stock hive until the -bees have emptied it of its honey; as soon as this is ascertained, let -it be removed. - -Some persons having found much difficulty in expelling the Bees from a -glass or box, after having removed it from the stock hive, and others -who have complained of the time occupied in effecting this object, may -adopt the following very ingenious and useful apparatus, invented by -Mr. Antram, a clergyman of Devonshire, and which has been kindly handed -to me, with his permission to make it public. It is a contrivance -for emptying a hive of its occupants; it may also be applied to a -bell-glass, or box, either at top or attached to a board on which the -removed glass is placed. He calls it his - -Bee-trap; and it is, he says, "An invention for taking the honey from -every description of double hive, which is not only simple, but very -efficacious, and entertaining to watch. I should premise that every -extra box or hive must be furnished with a second aperture _never_ to -be opened except when the honey is to be taken. Provide a block of wood -1 inch longer and half an inch deeper than the aperture, and 3 or 4 -inches wide; cut the front to an angle of 45° or less; then cut out of -the under part a groove the exact size of the aperture, thus leaving -a thickness of half an inch of wood at the sides and top. Get a piece -of talc, or very thin horn (glass is too heavy), cement or gum it to -a piece of ribbon, which latter fasten to what remains of the sloping -front above; divide the talc into portions about a quarter of an inch -wide. A tin bottom should be affixed to the whole, to which the talc -must reach, and on which it must rest. - -"When you wish to empty a hive place this before the opening before -mentioned, and cut off the communication between the hives; the -Bees, seeing the light, will one by one push up the small pieces of -talc and escape; the talc falls back in its place; thus there is no -re-entering, and your hive becomes rapidly emptied. There is here no -previous removing of the hive or box, no danger of a sting, and no fear -of robbers; even if the queen be there, she, finding herself deserted -by her subjects, will soon depart, and re-enter the stock hive by the -accustomed entrance. It acts upon the same principle as the old wire -rat-trap. Two loops of tin, with holes through, are added, to fasten or -suspend it, when there is no alighting-board. It may be placed on the -top of a box, but must then have a hole in the bottom, and a slip of -tin by way of a back; the tin bottom may project a little beyond the -lower edge of the talc in front, and, indeed, it is better so." - -This useful contrivance I feel assured will be adopted by many persons; -for it will entirely prevent the tediousness of watching a glass of -honey until the Bees have left it, which without this protection is -at all times necessary, and more especially so when taken late in the -season, and robbers are on every side. I have more than once seen a -good glass of honey emptied of every drop by them when carelessly left -by its owner for a few hours; now, with this trap attached, it may be -left even for days with perfect safety. - -Taking off Glasses of Honey.--Some persons, I doubt not, are beginning -to be anxious to possess themselves of a few glasses of honey from -their Bees. If the combs are sealed up they may be taken; but I would -recommend every one who attempts it during hot weather to be more than -commonly careful how they remove them, or the combs will fall out. - -[Illustration: Fig. 26.] - -Knife for Cutting out Combs.--This knife, which is so simple in its -construction, and so easily used, deserves to be made generally -known. Gelieu, to whom apiarians are much indebted, tells us that in -Switzerland it is commonly used, and that the combs, from hives of any -shape or materials, are extracted without any difficulty. It is formed -of a strip of steel 2 feet long by one-eighth of an inch thick; the -handle is 20 inches long by half an inch broad. The turn-down blade, -of 2 inches in length, is spear-pointed, sharp on the edges, and bent -so as to form an angle of 90° with the handle; the other blade is 2 -inches long by 1-1/2 inch broad, and sharpened all round. The broad -blade cuts and separates the combs from the sides of the hives; and -the spear point, which is also sharp on each side, admits, from its -direction and narrowness, of being introduced between the combs to -loosen them from the top of the hive. - -Entrances to Hives to re Narrowed.--Towards the end of this month it -will be necessary to contract the entrances of the hives, that the Bees -may be better enabled to defend themselves from the attacks of wasps. -In Taylor's Hive, these things are supplied; but, in the Cottage Hive, -I have found wedges of cork of different sizes to answer remarkably -well. - -Wasps' Nests to be Destroyed.--It will be well to have diligent search -made in the neighbourhood of the apiary for wasps' nests, and to have -them destroyed, for which purpose the spirit of turpentine appears to -answer remarkably well. The usual method of procedure, I believe, is -to put a small quantity into a common wine bottle, to put the mouth of -the bottle into the hole leading to the nest, and surrounding it with -earth. Very little turpentine is required--merely as much as will wet -the sides of the bottle. If applied in the evening every wasp will be -dead the following morning. In no instance have I known it to fail -of the desired effect, except in cases where the nest is deep in the -ground, or at a greater distance from the mouth of the hole than was -anticipated. A failure may sometimes occur when there happen to be two -entrances to the nest instead of one; but a second application on the -following evening is sure to prove effectual. - -Additional Room.--It will be quite useless to give additional room to -any colony of Bees, be they ever so prosperous, after the month of July -is ended; for the honey season is fast drawing to a close, and the -population of the hives very much upon the decrease, not only from the -killing of the drones, but by the death of numbers of the workers. - -Transporting Hives.--In a fine season, and in the prospect of a fine -autumn, every person whose locality admits of it should embrace the -opportunity of sending his hives to the moors. The advantages must be -incalculable, not only in quantity, but in the delicious quality of the -honey there obtained. - -Shading.--Should the present month prove hot it will be well to screen -the swarms of the present year from the intense heat of the sun, or -the combs, being new and tender, may be melted by it; where this -unfortunately happens the stock is usually destroyed. - -Robbers.--Late swarms and stocks that are weak must be closely watched, -and if the least appearance of robbing discovers itself, the entrance -to the hive must be closed so as to admit but one Bee at a time. - -Dressing Hives.--It would be well if this practice was discontinued -altogether; for when done in the most judicious manner the Bees are -greatly annoyed by it. A clean dry hive is more pleasing to them than -one besmeared with ale, honey, fennel, and all the other good things -used by good dames of old. I heard of one having been washed, or -smeared, with cream and sugar, and in so profuse a manner that the -Bees, which had to travel an hour by rail, were found at the end of -their journey to be completely saturated with it, a large portion of -them dead, and the remainder in such a state as to render it necessary -to kill them the next day, to the vexation and disappointment of the -gentleman to whom they were sent, who had been impatiently waiting -their arrival for some weeks. Cream I should imagine to be the most -disagreeable thing that could be thought of for this purpose, except it -should be oil, which is well known to kill a Bee, or almost any insect, -the instant it touches it, and this cream I believe was some of the -far-famed Devonshire, which in its rich and buttery nature approaches -very closely indeed to oil. - - -SEPTEMBER. - -Removing Supers.--It is now quite time to remove glasses and supers -of every kind from hives intended for stocks, and to see that each -one contains at least 20 lbs. of honey; if not, they had better at -once be made up to that weight by feeding. At this time of year I -would recommend syrup in preference to barley-sugar, because it can -be given in larger quantities, and stored more quickly. Honey is, -unquestionably, the best food that can be given; and, next to it, a -compound of honey, loaf sugar, and water. Barley-sugar is more suited -to spring feeding, when but little is required. The proportions are, -one pound of sugar, one-quarter of a pint of water, and one-quarter of -a pound of honey, mixed and simmered over a slow fire till the sugar is -melted. - -Early Breeding.--In our fitful climate this is a most important thing -to effect, and every possible means for promoting it should be used; -therefore in addition to what I have already said in the calendar for -last month--viz., leaving the stocks rich in store, as well as in Bees, -I would now say, Keep the stocks as cool as possible till the end of -February; and if, as has already been said, that cold retards the -hatching of the brood, warmth may be supposed to promote it. I would -therefore recommend, where it is at all practicable, at the end of -February to increase the temperature of the hives, by defending them -externally from the cold of March and April, by any means that may -the most readily be had recourse to for the purpose. Perhaps binding -the hives neatly over with haybands would be as little trouble and -inexpensive as anything. - -Shading.--It is very desirable to shade the hives from the winter's -sun, for the Bees are not unfrequently tempted thereby to leave their -hives, never to return. - -Stocks for Next Season.--The time will soon arrive for setting apart -stocks to stand through the winter. Each one intended for this purpose -should be made to weigh from 20 to 25 lbs., and the Bees of all weak -or very old stocks, the hives of which are decaying so as not to stand -with safety through another season, should be driven to those that are -the least populous in the apiary; for it must be remembered, that net -only a good store of provision, but that a large quantity of Bees, -also, is necessary to secure success for another year. - -Driving.--For performing this operation, as well as for almost all -others, I very much prefer the middle of a bright day to any other -time. The process is very simple, and may be effected in a few minutes. -I very much wish that I could persuade all my cottage friends to adopt -it, instead of the cruel and wasteful method of "burning;" for in weak -stocks the Bees themselves are frequently of as much value as their -little store of honey and wax; and, by joining them to other stocks, -very considerable advantages arise. My method of driving is this:--On -a bright day, between eleven and one o'clock, turn the hive from which -the Bees are to be driven bottom upwards, in a shaded corner of the -garden, and place upon it a hive of the same size; see that they fit -closely, and to make the junction more complete, tie a cloth round the -hives where they meet. Then, with two sticks, keep up a gentle but -continuous tapping upon the sides of the inverted hive for about ten -minutes, the Bees will by that time have left it and gone into the -upper one. Having ascertained that fact, take it immediately to the -place where the driven hive was taken from, and place it upon the same -floor-board; carry the driven hive 50 or 60 yards away, and place it -upon a fresh floor-board; the few Bees that remain in it, as well as -those that are out at work, will return to the driven Bees. All is now -finished until an hour after sunset, except emptying the driven hive of -its store, when two sticks may be laid upon the ground about 8 inches -apart, opposite the stock to which the driven Bees are to be joined; -then, with a smart stroke dash out the Bees between the sticks, and -instantly, but very gently, place the stock they are intended to enter -upon the sticks; leave them for the night, having first defended them -from rain, should any fall; and in the morning, an hour before sunrise, -replace the stock in its original position, and all will be peace and -harmony. Here, then, will be an increased population--a stock thereby -enabled to stand through the winter much better, and to send out a much -earlier swarm, if swarms are desired, than if the union had not being -effected. - -Wasps.--It will be well to destroy wasps' nests in those localities -where they are to be found. - -Stands.--The end of the month will be a good time to examine the -pedestals upon which the stocks are placed; for it is not unusual to -hear of a stock being destroyed by the pedestal decaying just below -the surface of the earth, so that by a strong wind, or anything -accidentally going against it, it is broken, and the combs by the fall -so misplaced as to reader the stock of little or no value. - -Preserving Hives of Comb.--Where the Bees have deserted their hives, -and it is swarms of the present year that have generally done so, the -combs should be carefully preserved, by placing the hives in some dry -spot out of the reach of mice or insects, for the purpose of hiving -swarms into them in the spring. Tho advantages afforded to a swarm -by putting it into a hive of fresh, clean comb, are scarcely to be -credited by those who have not experienced it. - - -OCTOBER. - -The time has now arrived for deciding upon which stocks are to be set -apart for standing through the winter, and which are to be driven and -joined to other stocks in the manner given in the calendar for last -month. Those set apart either for swarming or working in glasses next -year, should be rich both in Bees, and honey, weighing, at least, from -20 to 25 lbs. each. Those that are not so heavy must have a few pounds -of food given to them immediately, as well as having the Bees from weak -stocks joined to them. - -In giving the estimated weight which should be allowed for the comb and -Bees in hives of the first year, and when two, three, four, or five -years old, I would say, for a hive of seven years standing, during the -autumn and winter months, allow for combs, Bees, and stored pollen, 7 -lbs.; for one of six years, 6-1/2 lbs.; for five years, 5-1/2 lbs.; for -four years, 4-1/2 lbs.; for three years, 3-1/2 lbs.; for two years, 3 -lbs.; and for one year, 2 lbs. - -Presuming the directions given in the calendar for September, as to -unions and feeding, have been attended to, but little attention will -be required this month beyond guarding against depredations of wasps, -which are frequently numerous at this season. - -Winter Preparations.--Glasses, small hives, and boxes, should now all -be removed from stock hives, where it can be done without reducing the -store below 20 lbs. The stands, likewise, where wood is used, should be -examined, and if found to be at all unsound replaced with new ones. - -The Moors.--Where Bees are kept in the vicinity of the moors, or where -they have been removed to them, an abundant supply of honey will be -obtained from the heather during fine weather, an advantage quite -unknown to the Bee-keepers of the eastern counties. - -Wasps.--For destroying wasps' nests, gas tar is even better than -turpentine, and their destruction is effected with much less trouble, -it being only necessary to put a small quantity into the mouth of -the nest, and cover it with earth; digging out the nest, or anything -further done, is quite unnecessary. - -Robbers will at this time be carrying on their depredations; and should -a serious attack be observed, the entrance must be narrowed one-half at -the least. Wedges of cork answer very well for this purpose. - -Stocks.--It is now full time for the stocks to be put in order for the -approaching winter. Defending them effectually from wet is of the first -importance. Narrowing the entrances to prevent the ingress of mice is -also necessary, as well as their destruction in the neighbourhood of -the apiary. Having done this, and taken effectual means for keeping -the hive free from damp, very little fear need be entertained of their -being carried safely through the winter without any further attention -beyond that of occasionally cleaning the floor-boards, and shutting up -the hive whilst snow lies upon the ground. - -Coverings.--The coverings, also, to the hives should be made secure -against winds and rains. A milk-pan, notwithstanding Its unsightly -appearance, is the best protection for a hive, and for the winter -months more especially so. - -Stands.--Let the pedestals which support the hive be well looked to -at this time. Although to the eye they may appear sound, let them be -examined 2 or 3 inches below the surface of the ground, and should they -be found in an unsound state replace them by new ones: and if they are -little charred before fixing, it may be the means of preserving them a -little longer. - -Bees with a North Aspect.--Much has been said of late as to the -advantages arising from placing Bees with the hive's entrance to the -north, which the following letter from a gentleman in Devonshire tends -very much to strengthen. He says:-- - -"In compliance with your wish, I visited B---- yesterday, and, although -not fortunate enough to find Mr. D. at home, I had a long conversation -with his gardener, who alone appears to take any interest in the -apiarian matters. One wooden hive, brought by Mr. D. from Oxford, is -placed behind a wall, through which the Bees issue towards the south; -another wooden hive is completely embedded in shrubs, but the entrance -faces the north. There is a stock in a portion of a hollow tree, which -was found when the tree was cut down, and removed to its present -position, also facing the north, and a row of fifteen common straw -hives have the same aspect: thus you will perceive that seventeen out -of a total of eighteen stock are kept permanently facing the north. -The gardener states that he has preferred a north aspect during the -last ten years, and that he gets earlier swarms and more honey than his -neighbours. For two or three years previously he kept half his Bees -to the south, and half facing the north, and by weighing them in the -autumn and spring (September and April), invariably found that those -facing the south consumed ten times the quantity of food as compared -with the others--for instance, if one consumed 10 lbs., the other -consumed but 1 lb.; and if one lost 15 lbs. during the winter, the -other would only diminish 1-1/2 lb. - -"I should state that B---- appears to me a first-rate locality, being -close to an extensive heath, now in full flower. The gardener told me -that not only had he no difficulty in maintaining second swarms, or -casts, during the winter, but that he considered them quite equal to -the first or prime swarms. The row of straw hives is sheltered by trees -and shrubs towards the south, but lies exposed to the north wind, which -the gardener considers most important, as he attributes the diminished -consumption in the winter to the cold winds keeping the Bees torpid. -The above is all the information I was able to glean during a long -conversation, as no kind of memorandum of any of the experiments has -been kept, and in the hope that it may prove interesting, I am, &c." - -Now, it must be remembered that this has been done in Devonshire, and -it is not unlikely that climate may have to be considered as to aspect, -and what may do in Devonshire might not answer so well in colder parts. -It has frequently been recommended to give Bees an aspect more or less -southerly in summer, and a northerly one in winter; but there seems now -to be the strongest reason to expect that for all seasons the north -will be found most suitable. - - -NOVEMBER. - -The requirements of the apiary are but few during the present month, -provided that feeding has been well attended to in the last. Should it, -however, have been neglected, no time must be lost in setting about it -before cold weather sets in, which may now reasonably be expected. - -Feeding.--By this time hornets and wasps will have finished their work -of destruction and pillage; each hive, therefore, must now be carefully -examined and weighed, and should any be found having less than 18 or 20 -lbs. of honey, supply them immediately with a sufficient quantity to -bring them up to that weight. - -Floor-board.--Clean the floor-board of each hive by scraping It with -a knife, and brushing it afterwards with a dry brush, and see that -each hive stands firmly on its pedestal, and is well defended against -wet; and for effecting this (especially during winter), I have never -yet found anything equal to the milk-pan, heavy and unsightly as it -unquestionably is. I have seen covers of zinc used, but they are too -light and frequently blown off by the wind; and one night's heavy rain -at this time of year will very nearly, if not quite, destroy one of the -best stocks. A gentleman of my acquaintance has had covers of cork made -at a cost of 30_s._ each, and very elegant things they are; but, after -about fourteen months' trial, they are abandoned because they will not -effectually keep out wet. - -Entrances.--The entrance to the hives must now be narrowed so that only -two or three Bees can come out at the same time for at this season -mice are very likely to lodge themselves in the hives, and they are -very hurtful and destructive to the Bees; for, having once fairly -lodged themselves in a hive, its entire destruction will be effected -by them in a few days. Mr. Huish relates an anecdote of having found -a dead mouse in one of his hives. He says, "In the month of December, -on inspecting my apiary, I perceived a hive to be in an unusual bustle -and the Bees in great agitation. I was convinced that some accident -had occurred in the interior of the hive, and I resolved to examine -it. To my great surprise I found a dead mouse on the stand, and it was -almost covered with propolis (Bee-bread). I first resolved to remove -this nauseous object; but, on more mature reflection, I was not willing -to forego the opportunity of Experiencing, by actual observation, one -of the most profound acts of foresight and wisdom which can possibly -be found in the works of the animal creation. What power is that -which taught the Bee the necessity of covering the dead mouse with a -plaster? It might have been thought sufficient to kill it, that their -property might be saved, and then leave it to waste away in the common -process of putrefaction. But were this process to be allowed to take -place, the health and safety of the whole hive would be endangered. To -prevent, therefore, this occurrence, the body of the mouse is, as it -were, embalmed in a case of propolis, and the object rots away without -emitting any offensive odour." I have myself occasionally found a snail -fastened to the floor-board in a similar manner. But a greater enemy to -Bees during the winter months than even the mouse will be found in that -little marauder the blue titmouse (_Parus major_ of Linnæus), which may -be said to stand foremost as their enemy. Mr. Purchase says, "She will -eat ten or twelve Bees at a time, and by-and-by, be ready for more. -When she comes to the hive and finds none, she knocks with her bill at -the door, and as soon as the Bees come out to inquire the cause, she -catcheth, first one and then another until her belly be full." This I -have observed in an apiary of about twenty hives, in a village nigh to -me, for the last two winters; the entrances of the hives by the end -of the winter having the appearance of being gnawn by rats, which has -all been done by these birds. Shoot and trap them in the winter, and -destroy their nests in breeding time. - -Removing Supers.--All super as well as nadir hives should now be -removed, reducing the room occupied by each stock as much as possible. - -Ventilation.--In hives of wood I have always found it necessary during -the winter months to withdraw one of the slides at the top of the hive, -and place over the opening a feeder or small glass for the purpose of -carrying off the condensed vapour, which would otherwise run down the -sides of the hive, and cause dampness and mouldiness to the combs, -and sometimes the entire destruction of the stock. Mr. Taylor gives a -drawing of a condenser for this purpose in his "Bee-Keeper's Manual," -page 142, fourth edition, which I have found to be very useful where a -feeding-pan could not be placed. - -Removing Bees.--Should any of our readers, from what has already -been said, feel disposed to try a northern aspect for their Bees, I -would recommend their not being removed at this time, except they are -brought from a distance, and when it is immaterial at what time they -are removed; but if it be only from one part of the same garden to -another, it will, be it when it may, be attended with considerable -loss; therefore it had better be done when the cells are filled with -brood--perhaps towards the end of March. - -Advantages of a Northern Aspect.--I still continue to receive very -favourable reports from those persons who have tried a northern -aspect for their hives. The results in every case already represented -to me have been satisfactory; but I am persuaded that the greatest -care must be taken to keep the whole exterior of the hives from wet, -where they are not placed in a Bee-house; and however averse I may -hitherto have expressed myself to the use of Bee-houses, I am now -inclined to think that where a northern aspect is decided upon they -may be necessary. In Devonshire it may not be required; but wherever -hives are placed in this aspect without the protection of a house, I -would particularly recommend that, be the coverings whatever they may, -they be sufficiently large to prevent the drip from hilling upon the -floor-boards of the hives; for this would engender dampness, and the -loss of the stock would, in all probability, be the consequence. - -Bee-Houses.--It must be remembered that, wherever they are adopted, -they require the greatest care as to neatness and cleanliness, for at -best they are hiding places for the Bees' worst enemies. - - -DECEMBER. - -Those persons who have been so fortunate in this untoward season as -to obtain a few glasses of honey from their Bees' must now look well -to their stocks, and by judicious feeding, get them up to 20 lbs. at -least, if it has not been already done. I would very strongly recommend -the food being supplied at the top of the hive; and should the Bees be -in a hive that has not a hole in the top, with a sharp knife make one -forthwith, for the danger as well as the inconvenience of feeding at -the bottom, and more especially at this season, is very great. - -Food.--I believe the best food that can be given, next to honey, which -in some years is far too expensive for feeding, is one pound of loaf -sugar, one quarter of a pint of water, and one quarter of a pound of -honey, simmered for a few minutes over a slow fire till the sugar is -melted, and when quite cold,, given to the Bees, and at the top of the -hive if possible. - -Stocks will require but little attention during this month beyond -cleaning the floor-boards, and seeing that there is neither damp nor -mould in the hives; and if the floor-boards are observed to be quite -dry, it will be a pretty sure indication that all is right within. -Stopping-up, however, must not be forgotten when snow lies upon the -ground, if the Bees are so placed that the sun shines upon their hives. -Shading during the winter months is practised by many persons, and -is a very good plan; but when we come to have all our Bees placed in -the north, it will be rendered unnecessary. An intelligent cottager -brought me a very ingeniously-contrived little apparatus for preventing -the sun's rays in winter inducing the Bees to come out, and at the -same time preventing the cold winds from blowing into the hives. It -is a piece of three-quarter-inch deal, 3 inches wide, and 2-1/2 long, -reduced at one end (not in thickness) so as to fit in the mouth of -the hive, and then with a gouge the under side is hollowed-out for -about 2 inches in length, and five-eighths of an inch in breadth, in a -straight line with the entrance of the hive; another hollow of the same -dimensions is then made, intersecting at right angles the one already -made, so that if the hive faces the south, the Bees come out east and -west. The under side has this appearance. Care, however, must be taken -that this little contrivance is not pushed into the hive beyond the -thickness of the straw; and it must also be remembered that it will -require to be taken out occasionally, to brush away the dead Bees that -may accumulate inside, or the passage may become blocked up, and the -health of the stock endangered. - -[Illustration] - -The population of the hives will now be found to be very much reduced; -but alarm for their safety on that account need not to be entertained. -It has been frequently said to me, "What becomes of the Bees managed -on the depriving systems if they are never suffered to swarm nor are -destroyed?" To which my reply has been, That it is well known to those -who are conversant with the care of Bees, that their numbers decrease -greatly in autumn, not only by the destruction of the drones, but also -by the unavoidable deaths of many of the workers, owing to the thousand -accidents they meet with in the fields, and owing to age. A much less -space, therefore, is required for them in the winter than was necessary -in the summer months. Mr. Purchase, who was a very careful observer, -says, in his Treatise on Bees, published in 1657, "It is manifest that -the Honey-Bees are but yearly creatures; they live but a year and a -quarter at most; for those Bees that are seen in May, lusty, full, -brown, smooth, and well-winged, will, by the end of July following, -begin to wither, becomes less, look grey, and have their wings tattered -and torn, and be all dead before the end of August." - -Ventilation.--It will be advisable, where Bees are in boxes, to see -that they are well ventilated. If in Mr. Taylor's Amateur's Bar Hive, I -would recommend the feeding-pan being allowed to remain on during the -winter--say till the end of March--and one of the zinc sides of the -hive taken out; and if in any other kind of box, let a bell-glass be -placed over the opening at the top, on the inside of which the vapour -of the hive will condense, and so pass off. "Perhaps," says Mr. Taylor, -"there is nothing more prejudicial than the moisture often engendered -in hives at this time, particularly after frost, and in certain states -of the atmosphere. It accumulates on the top and sides, moulding and -rendering offensive the combs, and producing disease amongst the Bees. -For this reason, hives with flat roofs have sometimes been objected to, -and perhaps, justly, when no provision is made for ventilation." Gelieu -obviated the evil by placing caps or small hives over the stocks, the -moisture ascending evaporated through the opening. "I have," says Mr. -Taylor, "tried different expedients, and have found nothing better than -the practice of condensing the vapour of the hive as much as possible, -and conveying it away." (See "Taylor's Bee-Keeper's Manual," page -149, fourth edition, where a figure of a condenser is given). I would -strongly recommend that particular attention be given to this little -matter by those whose Bees are in boxes; for want of it many excellent -stocks are lost, or become so depopulated as scarcely ever to recover. - -I have never yet found that hives made entirely of straw require -any ventilation whatever; indeed, I consider it better for them to -have none; while those of wood or glass are in great danger of being -destroyed without them, for in very cold weather the vapour of the hive -condenses on the top and sides, and runs down upon the floor-board in -such quantities as to cause general dampness and mouldiness upon all -the combs. When in this state, if timely assistance be not rendered, -ruin very soon follows. - -Where Bees are in boxes, ventilation is of the next importance to -feeding. I have found the best method to secure a perfect ventilation -is to leave one of the gratings, or holes at the top of the box, open, -from this time till the end of February, and placing over it a small -bell-glass, or feeder; the vapour will then condense upon the former, -and run down outside the box, or upon the glass of the latter, and be -caught in the pan. - -Enemies.--Mice and birds must be carefully looked after, for they are -both very busy at this time, and will destroy a stock, sometimes very -quickly, if allowed to pursue their depredations unmolested. - -Hives,--This is a good time to get a supply of straw hives in readiness -for the coming season, and to have them well covered with three coats -of paint--stone or straw colour is the best; white, when the sun shines -upon it, is too dazzling, and any dark colour absorbs too much heat. - -Snow.--Whilst snow lies upon the ground, _but not an hour longer_, the -entrance of the hives should be stopped with perforated zinc, and not a -single Bee allowed to leave them. - -[Illustration] - - - - -INDEX. - - - Adapting-boards, 8 - Alighting-boards, 18 - Apiary, aspect of, 5 - in northern aspect, 62, 65 - - Barley-sugar, 39 - to make, 25 - Bar-frame, compound, 16 - Bar hives, 51 - Bee dress, 32 - trap, 56 - Bees, natural history of, 3 - drones, 4 - Ligurian, 32 - queen, 3 - workers, 4 - removing from one hive to another, 48 - removing, 65 - Bell-glasses, 8, 22, 38, 42, 46 - to expel Bees, from, 28 - Boxes, 8 - putting on, 46 - - Comb-bar, improved, 17 - Combs, cutting out old, 43 - melted, 54 - securing in frames, 19 - Coverings, 62 - - Defence, 47 - Depriving, 47 - Driving, 48, 60 - Drones, 45 - Dysentery, 40 - - Early breeding, to promote, 39, 52, 59 - Enemies, 37, 39, 63 - Entrances, 7 37, 58, 64 - - Feeding, 25, 37, 38, 42, 50, 63, 66 - Feeding-pans, 27 - Floor-boards, 18; - to clean, 41, 43, 63 - Food, 37, 66 - Frames, to secure combs in, 19 - Fumigation, 29 - - Glasses, putting on, 12, 22, 38, 43, 46, 50, 54 - taking off, 57 - covering for, 47 - Guide-combs, 44, 51 - - Haybands, 41 - Hive, stand for, 5, 61 - Hives, 6, 38, 41, 54, 68 - Amateurs', 10 - Bar, 42 - Bees forsaking, 41 - Fenn's, 11 - Neighbour's Improved Cottage, 8 - Neighbour's Observatory, 9 - Payne's Improved Cottage, 6 - Stewarton, 13 - Taylor's Amateurs', 10 - Tegetmeier's, 14 - Woodbury's, 15 - of comb, 22, 39, 61 - putting on small, 22, 46 - to dress, 58 - transporting, 58 - Hiving, 22 - Honey, time for taking, 53, 56 - draining from the combs, 29 - manner of taking, 28 - vinegar, 31 - - Knife for cutting out combs, 57 - - Ligurians, 32 - multiplying swarms of, 35 - to unite, 34 - - Mead, 30 - Mice, 37 - Moths, 45 - - Northern Aspect, 62, 65 - - Pedestals, 40 - Pollen, 40, 41, 44, 50 - - Queenless Stocks, 52 - Queen Wasps, to destroy, 45, 49, 52, 58 - - Robbers, 58, 62 - - Shading, 37, 54, 58, 59 - Snow, 37, 41, 63 - Sparrows, 50 - Stands for hives, 5, 61, 62 - Stings, remedies for, 31 - Stocks, 39, 62, 66 - purchasing, 32, 42 - to stand the winter, 60 - Stupifying Bees, 29 - Supers, 18, 47, 59, 65 - Swarming, 20, 51 - symptoms of, 21 - Swarms, 48 - artificial, 51 - early, 56 - premature, 49 - returning, 53, 55 - second, 22 - uniting, 23, 34, 56 - - Titmouse, 37 - - Ventilation, 24, 37, 48, 65, 67 - - Wasps, 42, 54, 63, 62 - Wasps' nests, to destroy, 53 - Water, 39, 43 - Wax, preparation of, 31 - - Young Bees, 41 - - - Printed at the Horticultural Press, 171, Fleet Street, London. - - - WORKS PUBLISHED - - AT THE - - JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE OFFICE. - - - THE FRUIT MANUAL, containing Descriptions and Synonymes of the - Fruits and Fruit Trees commonly met with in the Gardens - and Orchards of Great Britain, with selected Lists of the - Varieties most worthy of cultivation. 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