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diff --git a/old/67539-0.txt b/old/67539-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e1ddf6e..0000000 --- a/old/67539-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1993 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Around the Circle: One Thousand Miles -Through the Rocky Mountains, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Around the Circle: One Thousand Miles Through the Rocky Mountains - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: March 1, 2022 [eBook #67539] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials made freely available at - The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AROUND THE CIRCLE: ONE -THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS *** - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=. Table of Contents added -to assist the reader. - - - - - Around the Circle - - A Thousand Miles Through The Rocky Mountains. - - - "AROUND THE CIRCLE" - - Will be sent free upon application to - - J. W. SLOSSON, T. W. BECKER, - Acting General Agent, Acting General Agent, - 236 Clark Street, Chicago. 379 Broadway, New York. - - W. M. RANK, H. V. LUYSTER, - General Agent, T. P. A., D. & R. G. R. R., - No. 219 Front St., San Francisco. 1008 Broadway, Kansas City, Mo. - - W. F. TIBBITS, W. R. PECK, - T. P. A., D. & R. G. R. R., City Pass. Agt., D. & R. G. R. R., - Denver, Colo. 1662 Larimer St., Denver, Colo. - - W. J. SHOTWELL, F. A. WADLEIGH, - General Agent, Asst. Gen. Passenger Agent, - Salt Lake City, Utah. Denver, Colo. - - E. T. JEFFERY, OTTO MEARS, - Pres. & Gen. Mgr. D. &. R. G. R. R. Pres. &. Gen. Mgr. R. G. S. R. R. - Denver, Colo. Denver, Colo. - - A S. HUGHES, S. K. HOOPER, - Traffic Manager, Gen. Pass. Agent, - Denver, Colo. Denver, Colo. - - - "Around the Circle" - - One Thousand Miles Through The Rocky mountains - - Being a Descriptive of a Trip - Among Peaks, Over Passes - and Through Cañons of - Colorado. - - +--------------------------------------------------------------+ - | A Journey which comprises more Noted and Magnificent Scenery | - | Than is compassed in any other one Thousand Miles | - | of Travel in The known World | - +--------------------------------------------------------------+ - - - Presented by the - Passenger · Department of the Denver & Rio·Grande R·R· - - 1892 - - -[Illustration: Rainbow Route--Silverton Railroad] - -[Illustration: Denver & Rio Grande R·R·--Scenic Line of the World] - -[Illustration: Rio Grande Southern R·R·--Silver San Juan Scenic Line] - - Copyright, 1892, - By S. K. Hooper, General Passenger Agent, Denver, Colo. - Denver & Rio Grande R. R. - - Knight, Leonard & Co., Printers - Chicago. - - - - CONTENTS - - - Topic Page - INTRODUCTION 3 - "AROUND THE CIRCLE" 5 - RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN ROUTE 17 - THE RAINBOW ROUTE 25 - THE BLACK CAÑON 35 - MARSHALL PASS 37 - TOLTEC GORGE 37 - ANIMAS CAÑON 39 - THE ROYAL GORGE 41 - HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS 54 - MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND PASSES 55 - ELEVATION OF LAKES 55 - ALTITUDE OF TOWNS AND CITIES 56 - INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS 56 - SEVENTY POINTS OF INTEREST 57 - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -The tourist in search of grand and beautiful scenery finds an -embarrassment of riches in Colorado. Among so many attractions he is -at a loss which to choose, and having made a choice, he is frequently -troubled with doubts as to the wisdom of his selection. Recognizing -this fact, the Passenger Department of the Denver & Rio Grande -Railroad, after a careful and thoughtful discussion of the situation, -has decided to make a selection of a tour that shall embrace the most -varied and picturesque scenery to be found on the line of any railroad -in the world, included in a single trip, at a moderate cost. The -excursion "Around the Circle" presents all these advantages. It can be -made comfortably in four days, and no portion of the journey has to be -retraced, thus affording constant variety and keeping the interest of -the tourist pleasurably excited to the end. It is a remarkable fact -that this journey, if pursued in the line laid down in the following -pages, is cumulative in its character. Like a well-constructed -drama, the interest grows stronger and stronger with each stage of -its progress, until the final scene, which is an overpowering climax -of grandeur and majesty. The points of interest on the trip "Around -the Circle" are practically innumerable. The observing tourist will -discover many beauties and attractions which are not described by the -writer. No attempt has been made to include all that is worthy of -mention. Only those scenes which are of transcendent interest have -been touched upon, and in the pages which follow, the reader will -only obtain a bird's-eye view of the tour. This being the case, the -tourist can readily imagine what pleasure lies before him. In this -instance distance does not lend enchantment to the view. To penetrate -the heart of the majestic mountains, to cross and re-cross the great -Rocky Range, to gaze with breathless awe into the defiles of abysmal -chasms, and to behold with reverent, upturned eyes the ancient summits -of heaven-defying snow-crowned peaks, are privileges that familiarity -can never make commonplace nor belittle. Such privileges are granted -to the tourists "Around the Circle," and with full confidence that he -who takes the journey: will find his brightest anticipations more than -realised, this little book is placed before him. - -[Illustration: SEVEN FALLS--CHEYENNE CAÑON.] - - - - -"AROUND THE CIRCLE." - - -The journey "Around the Circle" on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, -from Denver to Silverton, Silverton to Ouray, and return to Denver, -or via the Denver & Rio Grande to Durango, thence over the Rio Grande -Southern R. R. to Ridgway and return to Denver, briefly described in -the following pages, comprises more noted and magnificent scenery -than any other trip of similar length in the known world. Piercing -the heart of the Rocky Mountains, crossing and recrossing the "Great -Divide" between the Atlantic and Pacific slopes; penetrating five -cañons, each of which is a world's wonder, and no two having the -same characteristics; climbing four mountain passes by rail and one -by stage; achieving grades of 211 feet to the mile; reaching heights -11,000 feet above the sea; penetrating gorges whose walls soar a half -mile in perpendicular cliffs above the track; traversing fertile and -picturesque valleys, watered by historic rivers; passing through Indian -reservations and in sight of frontier cantonments of National troops; -pausing in the midst of mining camps, where gold and silver and coal -and copper are being taken from subterranean recesses; in a word, -making the traveler familiar with peaks and plains, lakes and rivers, -cañons and passes, mountains and mesas; with strange scenes in nature, -aboriginal types of men, wonders of science and novel forms of art; -surely no other journey of a thousand miles can so instruct, entertain, -entrance and thrill the traveler as this trip "Around the Circle." - -Every mile of the journey has its especial attraction. A thousand -objects of interest present themselves to view in rapid succession. -A thousand novel impressions photograph themselves upon the mind, a -thousand landscapes of wonderful and bewitching beauty beyond the -power of pen or pencil, or brush or camera to depict, can be seen -from the windows of the car. Colorado is a land of wonders, a land of -surprises, a land of sharp and wonderful contrasts. Take Toltec Gorge -as a central point, and with a radius of two hundred miles describe -a circle. Within the confines of that magic ring will be found more -grand and wonderful scenery accessible by rail than within any similar -circle swept anywhere on the surface of the world! Pilgrimages are made -across the seas to behold the beauties of some one famed object The Via -Mala attracts one, Mount Blanc another, the Colosseum a third, and the -tourist, after all his great expenditure of time and money, comes away -with one impression. - -[Illustration: PALMER LAKE.] - -It ought to be the fashion for Americans to see something of their -own country before they rush across the ocean to gaze at the wonders -of the Old World. It is a good omen that many Americans appreciate -this fact and are turning their attention to the unsurpassed scenery -of their native land. The "Via Mala" is dwarfed into insignificance -when compared with the "Royal Gorge." The hundreds of peaks among the -Rockies, reaching an altitude of over fourteen thousand feet, should -compensate one for the solitary grandeur of "Mount Blanc," while the -ruins of the "Cliff Dwellings" tell of a race older than that which -built the "Colosseum." - -It would be impossible within the pages allotted for this book to give -an adequate description of even half the noteworthy things to be seen -in a journey "Around the Circle." All that can be attempted is briefly -to characterize a few of the most remarkable objects of interest, -objects which deserve to rank with the greatest natural attractions of -the world, and most of which have already become known as marvels, to -behold which would amply repay a journey across the continent. - -The trip naturally begins at Denver, the great railroad center of -Colorado, and a city of more than ordinary attractiveness. - -For a hundred and twenty miles the railroad extending to the south -follows the front range of the Rocky Mountains, which is in plain -view on the right and to the west. After Denver has been left behind, -the tourist can see from the car window the snow-covered pinnacles of -Long's, James', Gray's and Pike's Peaks standing in a wilderness of -lesser mountains. Soon a remarkable promontory rising from the summit -of a conical hill and presenting the appearance of an ancient round -tower, attracts the tourist's attention. This is Castle Rock, under -whose battlements nestles a picturesque village of the same name. -Beyond Castle Rock the country becomes more broken, the ascent being -now begun at what is known as the Divide, a range of hills extending -eastward into the plains and rising to an elevation of 7,500 feet. -Curious formations of sandstone frequently occur, the most notable -of which is called Casa Blanca, and can be seen on the right between -Greenland station and Palmer Lake. This enormous monolith is a thousand -feet in length and two hundred feet high, and on account of its size, -its snow-white walls and its castellated appearance, can hardly fail to -attract attention. On the summit of the Divide is Palmer Lake, a lovely -little sheet of water, so equally poised that its waters flow through -outlets northward into the Platte and southward into the Arkansas. Here -has been established a pleasant summer resort, and here also is Glen -Park, where assemblies are held each summer, modeled on those of the -well-known Chautauqua. - -[Illustration: CENTRE OF PIKE'S PEAK.] - -Beyond Palmer Lake, on both sides of the track, may be seen wonderful -formations of brilliant red sandstone, taking the form of castles, -fortifications and towers. One of the most striking of these has been -named Phœbe's Arch, being a great castle-like upthrust of glowing red -rock, through which there is a perfect natural archway. The descent of -the Divide to Colorado Springs is through an interesting country, the -mountains to the west and plains extending to the east. As Colorado -Springs are approached, the great gateway to the Garden of the Gods can -be seen to the right, and Pike's Peak, rising to an altitude of 14,147 -feet, its summit white with snow, attracts instant attention. A side -trip can here be taken, at nominal expense, to Manitou Springs, five -miles distant, the famous watering place of the west, a pleasure resort -possessing wonderful effervescent and medicinal springs, and surrounded -by more objects of scenic interest than any resort of a like character -in the old or new world, including "Garden of the Gods," "Glen Eyre," -"Red Rock Cañon," "Crystal Park," "Ruxton's Glen," "William's Cañon," -"Manitou Grand Caverns," "Cave of the Winds," "Ute Pass," "Rainbow -Falls," "Bear Creek Cañon," "Cheyenne Mountain," "Pike's Peak," and -hundreds of others, to name which space is lacking. - -The cog-wheel railroad to the summit of Pike's Peak is now completed -and in operation, and is the most novel railway in the world. When it -reaches its objective point above the clouds, at a height of 14,147 -feet above sea level, it renders almost insignificant by comparison the -famous cog-way up Mount Washington, and the inclined railway up the -Rhigi in Switzerland. - -The route is the most direct possible, and about nine miles in length. -The track is the same as that of the Mount Washington line, standard -gauge, with an eight-inch cast-steel cog-rail. The cars are set on low -trucks to prevent them from becoming top-heavy on curves or in a high -wind. This is almost an unnecessary precaution, as it is not expected -to make the ascent in less than two hours. On the ascent the cars are -pushed by the engine, but on the descent the locomotive is placed -in front. The engine achieves the tremendous grades by means of a -cog-wheel, which fits into the cog-rail. This mountain road is a great -attraction, added to the many which already render Manitou the greatest -summer resort of the mid-continental region. - -The run from Colorado Springs to Pueblo is down the valley of a -pretty little stream, the Fountaine qui Bouille, along whose banks -are situated rich farms, or as they are universally termed in the -west, "ranches," on which large crops are grown through the medium of -irrigation. A hundred miles to the westward may be seen the faint blue -outlines of the Greenhorn range of mountains, while to the eastward -stretch the plains, the view of which is limited only by the horizon. -Pueblo is the great manufacturing city of central Colorado. It has -one of the largest steel manufactories in the world, and a number of -extensive smelters. Its close proximity to coal and iron mines, and the -fact that it has become a railroad center of much importance, makes the -future of the city exceedingly bright in promise. With a population of -over 20,000, constantly increasing, and with the energy and push of its -citizens, it cannot fail of achieving the greatest prosperity. - -[Illustration: VETA PASS.] - -From Pueblo, 120 miles distant from Denver, the journey is continued to -the south, still across a level country, and to the left the Spanish -peaks soon rise to view. These mountains possess a peculiar attraction, -rising, as they do, directly from the plain in symmetrical, conical -outlines, and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 -feet. The Indians, with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these -mountains "Wahatoya," or Twin Breasts. - -Shortly after sighting the Spanish Peaks, the ascent of Veta Pass is -begun The ascent of this famous pass is one of the great engineering -achievements of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The line follows the -ravine formed by a little stream. La Veta Mountain rising to the right. -At the head of this gulch is the wonderful "Mule-Shoe Curve," the -sharpest curve of the kind known in railroad engineering. In the center -of the bend is a bridge, and the sparkling waters of the mountain -stream can be seen flashing and foaming in their rocky bed below. -Standing on the rear platform of the Pullman car as the train rounds -the curve, the tourist can see the fireman and engineer attending to -their duties. From this point the ascent of Dump Mountain begins, -rocks and precipitous escarpments of shaley soil to the right and -perpendicular cliffs and chasms to the left. The ascent is slowly made, -two great Mogul engines urging their iron sinews to the giant task. -The view to the eastward is one of great extent and magnificence. The -plains stretch onward to the dim horizon line like a gently undulating -ocean, from which rise the twin cones of "Wahatoya," strangely -fascinating in their symmetrical beauty. At the summit of the pass the -railroad reaches an elevation of 9,393 feet above the sea. - -Veta Mountain is to the right as the ascent of the pass is made, and -rises with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 -feet above the sea level. The stupendous proportions of this mountain, -the illimitable expanse of planes, the symmetrical cones of the Spanish -Peaks, present a picture upon which it is a never-ceasing delight for -the eye to dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its winding -course, at last reaching the apex, glides into the timber and halts -at the handsome stone station over 9,000 feet above the level of the -distant sea. The downward journey is past Sierra Blanca and old Fort -Garland, and through that pastoral and picturesque valley known, as San -Luis Park. - -[Illustration: WAGON-WHEEL GAP.] - -At Placer one can say that the descent of Veta Pass has been -accomplished, though it is still all down grade to Alamosa. This little -town is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at -the western extremity of La Veta Pass. - -From Alamosa station a magnificent view of Blanca is obtained, and -this majestic mountain, with its triple peaks capped with snow, and -two-thirds of its height above timber line, presents a noble and -impressive spectacle. To the north and south, silhouetted against a sky -of perfect azure, are the serrated pinnacles of the Sangre de Christo -range. It would be difficult to find, even in this land of peaks, a -more impressive mountain view than that obtained during the traversing -of the San Luis Valley, on the eastern rim of which Garland Station, -the site of old Fort Garland, rests. Here is a park 7,500 feet above -sea level, surrounded on all sides by ranges of rugged mountains whose -summits are whitened with perpetual snow. San Luis Park has an area -larger than Connecticut, watered plentifully by mountain streams and -traversed by the historic and beautiful Rio Grande del Norte. The soil -of this valley is fertile, and through the medium of irrigation the -park is rapidly becoming a great agricultural region. - -From Pueblo the line diverges and the tourist may go via Veta Pass as -described above, or to Salida, and thence through the Poncha Pass to -Villa Grove and down through the beautiful San Luis Valley to Alamosa, -noted for its fine farms and phenomenal yield of agricultural products. -From the point named above there is a tangent of fifty-two miles and -the San Luis Valley portion is a straight line through one of the most -fruitful and beautiful sections of the State. - -From Alamosa a delightful side trip can be taken to the Hot Springs at -Wagon Wheel Gap, and to the new and already famous mining camp, Creede, -for which a reduced rate will be given. A word about this wonderful -health and pleasure resort will not be out of place here. As the Gap -is approached the valley narrows until the river is hemmed in between -massive walls of solid rock which rise to such a height on either side -as to throw the passage into twilight shadow. The river rushes roaring -down over gleaming gravel or precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene -becomes wilder and more romantic, until at last the waters of the Rio -Grande pour through a cleft in the rocks just wide enough to allow -the construction of a road along the river's edge. On the right, as -one enters, tower cliffs to a tremendous height, suggestive in their -appearance of the Palisades of the Hudson. On the left rises the round -shoulder of a massive mountain. The vast wall is unbroken for more than -half a mile, its crest presenting an almost unserrated sky line. Once -through the Gap, the traveler, looking toward the south, sees a valley -encroached upon and surrounded by hills - - "Bathed in the tenderest purple of distance, - Tinted and shadowed by pencils of air." - -[Illustration: SOUTH WILLOW CAÑON, CREEDE, COLO.] - -Here is an old stage station, a primitive and picturesque structure -of hewn logs, made cool and inviting by wide-roofed verandahs. Not a -hundred feet away rolls the Rio Grande river, swarming with trout. -A drive of a mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals -new scenic beauties, brings the tourist to the famous springs. The -medicinal qualities of the waters, both of the cold and hot springs, -have been thoroughly tested and proved equal, if not superior, to the -Hot Springs of Arkansas. - -Ten miles beyond Wagon Wheel Gap is Creede; nothing yesterday, a city -of seven thousand people to-day. Here is Colorado's newest and richest -mining camp, bustling with all the activity of an older eastern city. -Situated in the heart of a cañon and extending through it and widening -out on to the less precipitous hills below, composed of buildings of -all kinds, from the temporary "shack" of the prospector to the more -pretentious brick store. The mountain side dotted with innumerable -prospect holes, with an occasional large building of unpainted pine, -rising from which is a volume of steam and smoke giving ocular evidence -of the presence of a mine of more than ordinary interest and value. To -the tourist desiring to combine business with pleasure, here is the -opportunity to buy what at present seems only "a hole in the ground," -but which may some day develop into a mint within Itself. - -Leaving Alamosa and continuing the circle tour, after crossing San Luis -Park, and just before reaching Toltec Tunnel, a sharp curve takes the -train into a nook among the hills. To the left are great monumental -and fantastic forms of rock, while to the right are cliffs rising to -a height of five or six hundred feet above the track. From the quaint -and curious formations which rise to the left as this bend is rounded, -it has been named Phantom Curve. In half an hour Toltec Tunnel is -reached, the great peculiarity of which is that it pierces the top of a -mountain instead of its base. For six hundred feet it has been blasted -through the living rock, and such is its solidity that no masonry is -needed to support the superincumbent rock masses above. When the train -emerges from the tunnel it rolls out upon a bridge of trestle-work -set like a balcony against the wall of stone. Beneath, to the left, -is Toltec Gorge. The traveler looks down fifteen hundred feet and, -glancing upward, sees the opposite wall of the gorge rising a thousand -feet above him. The scene is one of the most thrilling and unique in -the whole journey "Around the Circle." Below, at the bottom of the -gorge, swirls and dashes a little stream, whose waters are churned into -snow-white foam, and the noise of whose progress comes faintly to the -ear, borne upward from those tremendous depths. - -[Illustration: RIO LAS ANIMAS CAÑON.] - -An object of interest to all visitors to Toltec Gorge is the Garfield -Memorial, a beautiful monument of granite, raised by the National -Association of General Passenger Agents, who held service at this spot -on the 26th day of September, 1881, at the time President Garfield was -being buried at Cleveland, Ohio. - -At Cumbres, the summit of the Cumbres range of mountains, is reached an -elevation of 10,115 feet, the journey of the descent is a trip fraught -with great variety of scenery and abounding in interest. Here may be -seen mountain meadows lush with vegetation, the surrounding hills being -heavily timbered and abounding in game. - -At Ignacio the Indian reservation is entered, and the rude tepees of -the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio de -las Florida. Occasionally a glimpse can be caught of a stolid brave, -tricked out in all his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it -speeds by. Frequently there is quite a little group of these aborigines -at the station, and they are always ready to exchange bows and arrows, -trophies of the chase, or specimens of their rude handiwork in return -for very hard cash. - -From Durango the tourist has the choice of two routes to complete the -"Circle" tour; either via the Rio Grande Southern Railroad, through -the Mancos Valley, the Lost Cañon, the Valley of the Dolores and the -Dolores Cañon to Rico, over the Lizard Head Pass by Trout Lake and -Telluride, down the San Miguel and Leopard Creek to Ridgway; or via -the Denver & Rio Grande, through the Animas Cañon to Silverton, over -the Rainbow Route (Silverton Railroad) to Ironton, and thence over the -famous Ironton and Ouray Stage Road to Ouray. - - - - -RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN ROUTE. - - -Leaving Durango via the Rio Grande Southern line, the tourist is -whisked across the Rio de Las Animas up Lightner Creek, past the -silver and gold smelters with their seething furnaces and smoke and -dust-begrimed workmen, and shortly past the famous coal banks where the -black diamond is dug from the bowels of Mother Earth, and from there -hauled to the smelters where it is used for the reduction and refining -of its more exalted, but not more useful brethren. - -Up through the valley the train speeds along among huge pines which -thus far have escaped the woodman's axe, and which will be free from -such invasion as long as Uncle Sam claims this particular spot as the -especial reservation for the military post at old Fort Lewis. - -From Fort Lewis the line passes through seemingly endless forests of -pine trees, and after the reservation is passed an occasional saw-mill -is sighted from its emitting unearthly screeches, which the knowing -ones say is merely the head sawyer sharpening up. - -[Illustration: CLIFF DWELLERS.] - -Descending the mountain into the valley, the beholder looks out on a -broad expanse of fertile, well-watered country, surrounded on all sides -by snow-capped mountains, and dotted with the rancheros of the hardy -pioneer, who has been well repaid for his daring in locating in this -far-away but beautiful valley, by its productiveness, and now that the -railroad, that greatest of all civilizers, has come, he has abundant -opportunities for the disposition of his produce. - -In the center of this valley lies Mancos station, which is the junction -with the main line of the proposed extension of this road into Arizona. - -To the south of Mancos station within a day's drive, and easily -accessible, are the ruins of the strange habitations of an extinct -and mysterious race known as the Cliff Dwellers. To those seeking -curiosities and wonders, the great Cañon of the Mancos, the great -Montezuma Valley, the McElmo Cañon, the Lower Animas Valley and the -Chaco Cañon are the wonderlands of the world. They contain thousands -of homes, and a town of the ancient race of Mound Builders and "Cliff -Dwellers," that has attracted the curious ever since the discovery of -America. The great Mancos Cañon contains hundreds of these homes which -were built and occupied hundreds of years ago. Yet many of them are in -a good state of preservation, and in them have been found hundreds of -specimens of pottery, and implements of husbandry and warfare. This -cañon is twenty miles south of Mancos, over a good wagon road. The -cañon is cut through Mesa Verda, a distance of thirty miles, and the -walls on either side rise to a perpendicular height of two thousand -feet. These cliff dwellings are built in the sides of this cañon, -as shown in the illustration. Fifteen miles farther west from the -Mancos is situated the great Montezuma Valley, where thousands of fine -specimens of pottery have been found among the ruins of that ancient -people. On the west side of this valley is the great McElmo Cañon, also -full of the ancient homes of the "Cliff Dwellers." Thirty-five miles -south of Durango, in the valley of the Animas, are some extensive ruins -of the Aztecs, and fifty miles further south are the wonderful ruins -in the Chaco Cañon. These ancient Pueblos are, without doubt, the most -extensive and the best preserved of any in the United States. Of these -Prof. Hayden, in his report of the Geological Survey of the United -States for the year 1866, says: "The great ruins in the Chaco Cañon are -pre-eminently the finest examples of the works of the unknown builders -to be found north of the seat of ancient Aztec Empire in Mexico." There -are eleven extensive Pueblos in this cañon, nearly all in a good state -of preservation, and their appearance indicates that they were once the -home of fifteen hundred to three thousand people each. They are the -most accessible from Mancos of any point on the line of railroads. From -the thousands of ruins of cities, towns and families found throughout -this great San Juan Valley, it is evident that once this great valley -was the home of hundreds of thousands of this extinct race. That they -were a peaceful and agricultural race of people is evidenced by the -large number of their implements of husbandry and specimens of corn and -beans found in these ruins, besides irrigating ditches and reservoirs -for the storage of water. - -[Illustration: SULTAN MOUNTAINS.] - -Leaving Mancos, the road winds up the sloping sides of a flat-topped -mountain, and there on its summit, among huge pines centuries old, -bubbles up a clear, cold spring of sparkling water, forming the stream -that flows down through the beautiful Lost Cañon, and is called by the -unpoetic name of "Lost Cañon Creek." - -Lost Cañon is a novelty in itself, as its sides are densely wooded -and softly carpeted with a thick bed of moss and leaves, beautifully -colored by millions of Colorado wild flowers whose delicate beauty is -unrivaled. - -Emerging from Lost Cañon the traveler is whirled up to the beautiful -valley of the Dolores River, with its many ranches and farms, past -the town of the same name. Off to the left, flowing to the eastward, -comes bubbling down the mountain side into the larger river, the West -Dolores, and no more famous or prolific trout stream exists than this. - -Continuing on up the main river, the valley begins to narrow down, -until we are once more within the walls of a cañon which takes its -name from the stream flowing through it. While this cañon is not -particularly deep, its natural beauties are manifold and are sure to -make a lasting and delightful impression on the beholder. - -Rushing out of the cañon the tourist is now landed at Rico. Rico is one -of the most important mining towns of the State, whose mines dot the -mountain sides, and whose product is packed in the cars on the backs of -the ever-patient and faithful burro, without which no mining camp can -be complete. The town is located in what was at one time the crater of -a large volcano. Precipitous mountains with poetic names arise upon all -sides of it, gradually widening, until by describing a circle of their -summits they appear as the top of a huge funnel. Among them is the -famous Telescope Mountain, a freak of nature only to be seen to form a -proper realization of the aptness of its name. The place has much of -historic interest, as evidences of early Spanish discoveries are found -on many sides. - -Leaving Rico, the line continues up the Dolores, which grows smaller -and smaller, until it becomes a mere silver thread winding in and out -among huge rocks and boulders. Thirteen miles north of Rico, and after -climbing many miles of three and four per cent, grades, the summit -of the Lizard Head Pass is reached at an elevation of nearly 11,000 -feet. From the summit and to the left will be seen the Lizard Head, -a peculiar rock formation capping a tall, bare mountain. This rock -derives its name from its resemblance to the head of a mountain lizard, -though at the same time it may be said to resemble the shaft of some -large monument. - -[Illustration: OPHIR LOOP.] - -Descending the pass through the mountain gorges over rushing mountain -streams, one finds one's self at Trout Lake. No more graphic -description of this sheet of beautiful blue water can be given than a -verse from a poem by "H. H." - - "The mountain's wall in the water; - It looks like a great blue cup; - And the sky looks like another - Turned over, bottom side up." - -Here the sport-inclined tourist may spend a few days, for the lake is -inhabited by thousands and thousands of mountain trout. - -Shortly after leaving Trout Lake, the famous Ophir Loop is passed. Here -the skill of the engineer was taxed to its utmost, for the track winds -in zig-zags down the mountain side, rushing through a deep cut here, -over a mountain torrent and a high bridge there, darting around sharp -curves, in and out of snowsheds, until on the opposite mountain and -high above us is to be seen a line of freshly-turned earth, which the -knowing ones say is the track over which we have just passed. - -From Vance Junction, a side trip of ten miles, which will well repay -the tourist, can be made to Telluride, a mining town of some 2,500 -inhabitants, nestling among snow-capped mountains, rising to stupendous -heights and rich in gold and silver. - -From Vance Junction the journey is continued down the San Miguel -River, past Placerville, until the river leaves the rail, and again -we commence to go up; this time over the Dallas Divide. This pass -resembles Marshall Pass, though not quite so long. After reaching the -summit, the line runs down the eastern slope along Leopard Creek, high -above it on the mountain side, giving a most magnificent view of the -Uncompahgre Range to the south with its gentle slopes softly colored by -the deep, dark foliage of dense pine and fir forests, gradually rising -until the mountains develop into a huge mass of shattered pinnacles, -their topmost points covered with the everlasting snow. - -Arriving at Ridgway, a city of some 1,500 inhabitants, the journey is -again resumed on the original route via the Denver & Rio Grande. - -[Illustration: ILIUM CURVE.] - - - - -THE RAINBOW ROUTE. - - -From Durango, the metropolis of the San Juan, to Silverton the scenery -is of surpassing grandeur and beauty. The railroad follows up the -course of the Animas River (to which the Spaniards gave the musical -but melancholy title of "Rio de las Animas Perdidas," or River of Lost -Souls), until the picturesque mining town of Silverton is reached. The -valley of the Animas is traversed before the cañon is reached, and the -traveler's eyes are delighted with succeeding scenes of sylvan beauty. -To the right is the river, beyond which rise the hills; to the left are -mountains, increasing in rugged contour as the advance is made; between -the track and the river are cultivated fields and cosy farmhouses, -while evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty are to be seen on every -hand. Nine miles above Durango, Trimble Hot Springs are reached. The -spacious hotel stands within a hundred yards of the road to the left -of the track. Here are medicinal hot springs of great curative value, -and here, in the season, gather invalids and pleasure seekers to drink -the waters and enjoy the delights of this charming resort. Leaving the -springs behind, the train speeds up the valley, which gradually narrows -as the advance is made; the ascending grade becomes steeper, the hills -close in, and soon the view is restricted to the rocky gorge within -whose depths the raging waters of the Animas sway and swirl. - -Animas Cañon has characteristics peculiarly its own. The railroad does -not follow the bed of the stream, but clings to the cliffs midway of -their height; and a glance from the car window gives one the impression -of a view from a balloon. Below, a thousand feet, are the waters of the -river--in places, white with foam; in quiet coves, green as ocean's -depths. Above, five hundred feet, climb the combing cliffs, to which -cling pines and hemlocks. The cañon here is a mere fissure in the -mountain's heart, so narrow that one can easily toss a stone across and -send it bounding down the side of the opposing rock wall until it falls -into the waters of the river coursing through the abyss below. Emerging -from this wonderful chasm, the bed of the gorge rises until the roadway -is but a few feet above the level of the stream. The close, confining -and towering walls of rock are replaced by mountains of supreme height. -The Needles, which are among the most peculiar and striking of the -Rockies, thrust their sharp and splintered peaks into the regions of -eternal frost. - -Elk Park is a quiet little nook in the midst of the range, with vistas -of meadows and groves of pines, a spot which would furnish the artist -many a subject for his canvass. - -At the end of Elk Park stands Garfield Peak, lifting its summit a -mile above the track. Beyond are marshaled the everlasting mountains, -and through them for miles extends, in varying beauty and grandeur, -the cañon of the Animas. Frequent waterfalls glitter in the sunlight, -leaping from crag to crag, only to lose themselves at last in the -outflowing river. Emerging finally from this environment of crowding -cliffs, the train sweeps into Baker's Park and arrives at Silverton in -the heart of the San Juan. - -Silverton is interesting, both from its picturesque position and -from the fact that it is a mining town. The mountains by which it is -surrounded on all sides are honeycombed with the shafts and tunnels -of innumerable mines. Sultan Mountain, which overlooks the town, is a -noble and impressive elevation, and adds to the grandeur of the scene -by its regal presence. - -[Illustration: MOUNT BEATLE.] - -From Silverton the journey "Around the Circle" is continued by taking -the Silverton Railway, a road constructed up the difficult grades -of Red Mountain, and doing an immense business in the handling of -ores which are taken from these rich deposits; also employed in the -transportation of passengers. This wonderful road owes its construction -to the genius, daring and wealth of one man, Mr. Otto Mears, who has -for years been the "pathfinder" of the San Juan region, building toll -roads and opening the gates of prosperity to the many mining towns of -this mountainous country. He is the sole owner of the road, and has -conquered engineering difficulties of the most astounding character. -The line does not as yet bridge the gap between Silverton and Ouray, -and from Ironton, its terminus, stages carry tourists over the -mountains to the latter point, where the trip is resumed by the Denver -& Rio Grande Railroad. - -The stage ride forms one of the most attractive features of this -most attractive journey. Lasting only two hours, passing over the -summits of ranges and through the depths of cañons, the tourist will -find this a welcome variation to his method of travel and a great -relief and recreation. The old fashioned stage, with all its romantic -associations, is rapidly becoming a thing of the past. A year or -two more and it will have disappeared, except in rare instances, -from Colorado. Here, in the midst of some of the grandest scenery on -the continent, the blue sky above and the fresh, pure, exhilarating -mountain air sending the blood bounding through one's veins, to clamber -into a Concord coach and be whirled along a splendidly-constructed -road, costing in some instances $40,000 a mile in its construction, -to behold the grandest of Nature's handiwork, and to be in such close -communion with the everlasting hills, is surely a novel and delightful -experience. - -The scenery on this journey between Silverton and Ouray is of the -greatest magnificence. This is especially true of that portion of the -route traversed by stage. The Silverton and Ouray toll road has long -been noted for its attractions in the way of scenery, the triangular -mass of Mount Abraham's towers to the left, while the road winds around -the curves of the hills with the sinuosity of a mountain brook. The -scene from the bridge over Bear Creek is one which once beheld can -never be forgotten. Directly under the bridge plunges a cataract to -a depth of 253 feet, forming a most noteworthy and impressive scene. -The toll road passes through one of the greatest mining regions in the -world, and the fame of Red Mountain is well deserved both from the -number and richness of its mines. Before Ouray is reached, the road -passes through Uncompahgre Cañon. Here the roadbed has been blasted -from the solid rock wall of the gorge, and a scene similar in nature -and rivaling in grandeur that of Animas Cañon is beheld. - -[Illustration: MOUNT ABRAM, OURAY TOLL ROAD.] - -Ouray is one of the most beautifully situated towns to be found -anywhere. Its scenery is idyllic. The village is cradled in a lovely -valley surrounded by rugged mountains. The situation of the town -is thus vividly described by Ernest Ingersoll in the "Crest of the -Continent": "The valley in which the town is built is at an elevation -of about 7,500 feet above the sea, and is pear-shaped, its greatest -width being not more than half a mile, while its length is about twice -that, down to the mouth of the cañon. Southward--that is, toward the -heart of the main range--stand the two great peaks, Hardin and Hayden. -Between is the deep gorge down which the Uncompahgre finds its way; -but this is hidden from view by a ridge which walls in the town and -cuts off all farther view from it in that direction, save where the -triangular top of Mount Abram peers over. Westward are grouped a series -of broken ledges, surmounted by greater and more rugged heights. Down -between these and the western foot of Mt. Hayden struggles Cañon Creek -to join the Uncompahgre, while Oak Creek leaps down a line of cataracts -from a notch in the terraced heights through which the quadrangular -head of White House Mountain becomes grandly discernible--the -easternmost buttress of the wintry Sierra San Miguel. - -"At the lower side of the basin, where the path of the river is beset -with close cañon walls, the cliffs rise vertically from the level of -the village, and bear their forest growth many hundreds of feet above. -These mighty walls, two thousand feet high in some places, are of -metamorphic rock, and their even stratification simulates courses of -well-ordered masonry. Stained by iron, and probably also by manganese, -they are a deep red maroon. This color does not lie uniformly, however, -but is stronger in some layers than in others, so that the whole -face of the cliff is banded horizontally in pale rust color, or dull -crimson, or deep and opaque maroon. The western cliff is bare, but on -the more frequent ledges of the eastern wall scattered spruces grow, -and add to its attractiveness. Yet, as though Nature meant to teach -that a bit of motion--a suggestion of glee was needed to relieve the -somberness of utter immobility and grandeur, however shapely--she has -led to the sunlight, by a crevice in the upper part of the eastern wall -that we cannot see, a brisk torrent draining the snowfields of some -distant plateau. This little stream, thus beguiled by the fair channel -that led it through the spruce woods above, has no time to think of -its fate, but is flung out over the sheer precipice eighty feet into -the valley below. We see the white ghost of its descending, and always -to our ears is murmured the voice of the Naiads who are taking the -breathless plunge. Yet by what means the stream reaches that point from -above cannot be seen, and the picture is that of a strong jet of water -bursting from an orifice through the crimson wall, and falling into -rainbow-arched mist and a tangle of grateful foliage that hides its -further flowing." - -[Illustration: CURRECANTI NEEDLE.] - -Resuming the railroad journey at Ouray, the traveler will find much to -interest him in the run past Ridgway, where the Rio Grande Southern -connects with the Denver & Rio Grande, to Montrose, where the main -line is again reached, and, with faces turned once more to the -eastward, the homeward segment of the "circle" is entered upon, and -the greatest wonders of all this wonderful journey lie before. From -Cerro Summit a fine view can be had of the Uncompahgre Valley, its -river, and the distant peaks of the San Juan and Uncompahgre ranges -of mountains. Cimarron Cañon is entered shortly after leaving Cerro -Summit, the road following this cañon down Cimarron Creek to where it -empties into the Gunnison river. Here begins the tourist's experience -in the world-renowned Black Cañon of the Gunnison. The name is a -misnomer. There is nothing black about the cañon except the shadows -of the towering granite walls. The cliffs themselves show bright and -happy colors. Gay contrasts of pink and blue, bright complements of -red and maroon, all shades blended and differentiated, dashed on here -and there as with the broad, free-handed sweep of some master scenic -painter. The scene is varied, kaleidoscopic, constantly changing. -Here the train rolls along between frowning and exalted walls: there -a stream of water, Chippeta Falls, white as wool, pitches from the -brow of a precipice two thousand feet above; yonder a side cañon yawns -with capacious mouth as if to engulf us. Now we are in a spacious -amphitheater, in the center of which stands a tremendous monument -of solid stone, a spire graceful as if hewn by the hand of a Gothic -builder, and terminating in a sky-piercing pinnacle. This is the famed -"Currecanti Needle." Thus for twenty miles the ever-changing variety of -the Black Cañon holds the awe-stricken attention of the traveler. At -last the train rolls out into the valley of the Gunnison, and pastoral -scenes take the place of the tumultuous grandeur just beheld. - -But soon a new marvel demands attention. The ascent of Marshall Pass -is just begun. We have just gone through the mountains, now we are to -go over them. The Pacific slope is now to be achieved. Two powerful -engines puff vigorously and take us spinning up the ringing grooves of -this marvelous road, climbing grades of 211 feet to the mile with as -much apparent ease as though we were traversing the level plain. What a -varied panorama of mountain views meets the gaze, and when the summit -is reached. 10,852 feet above the distant sea, the train pauses and -the eye sweeps the prospect as far as vision reaches. To the right, -fading away into the blue distance, can be seen the serrated range of -the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, snow-covered pyramids of transcendent -beauty. To the left towers fire-scarred Mount Ouray, a volcano whose -fires died out ages ago, while opposite stands its companion peak, -Mount Shaveno. Beneath is the pathway of our ascent, four lines in -view, each one an ascending circle of our tortuous upward journey. - -[Illustration: CATHEDRAL SPIRE.] - -Half a dozen revolutions of the wheels and we are on the Atlantic -slope. The waters all run to the eastward now. One engine holds the -train in check. There are no smoke and cinders. Pneumatic breaks -skillfully applied by the engineer control the power of gravitation, -which is the sole force needed to carry the long train down its winding -way. The sinuosity of the descent is something indescribable. A glance -at the illustration of the alignment of the road over Marshall Pass -will convey a better idea than anything that could be said. The descent -is ended at Poncha Springs, and the train enters the valley of the -Arkansas. - -At Poncha are some of the most remarkable hot springs to be found -anywhere in the West. There are over one hundred of these springs; the -water varies in temperature from 90 to 185 degrees Fahrenheit. The -analysis of the Poncha Springs corresponds almost exactly with that of -the waters of the Hot Springs in Arkansas. - -From the Arkansas Valley can be obtained a fine view of the Collegiate -range of mountains, including the peaks of Harvard, Yale and Princeton, -all of which reach an altitude greater than fourteen thousand feet. - -The crowning attraction, the wonder of wonders, the marvel of marvels, -yet remains to be seen. The Grand Cañon of the Arkansas lies before -us. There are no words in the language which can describe this cañon. -There are no pigments on the artist's palette that can paint it; it is -indescribable and entirely beyond the reach of mimetic art. The Grand -Cañon is seven miles in length--seven miles of wonders, seven miles -of the grandest, most awful scenery in the world. To the right boils -and surges the Arkansas River, above which tower the red rocks of the -cañon. To the left are cliffs, jutting in places above the track, and -rising to tremendous and awe-inspiring heights. The progress down the -cañon is by means of many intricate curves, and it seems as though the -engine would dash itself to atoms against the cliffs, but each time -a slight turn is made and the train rounds the promontory in safety. -Soon the tourist finds himself in the heart of the mountain. Peak -upon peak rises above him, until the splintered summits seem to touch -the sky. Darker and darker grow the shadows, narrower and still more -narrow grows the gorge, deeper and deeper grows the gloom, the river -ceases its roaring, the noise of the train is hardly perceptible, for -the engineer has "slowed up," and the Royal Gorge is at hand. Here the -cañon is not wide enough for road and river, and here is one of the -most remarkable feats of engineering. Right across the gorge, fifty -feet wide at the base and perhaps seventy at the summit, which soars -above to a height of nearly three thousand feet, a series of great iron -braces has been thrown, from which huge iron bars depend, holding a -long iron bridge in suspension, that clings to the face of the cliff, -and runs, not across, but parallel with the course of the river. The -eye can scarcely comprehend the stupendous height of the perpendicular -cliffs whose summits pierce the heavens half a mile above our heads. - -[Illustration: APPROACH TO THE BLACK CAÑON.] - -After beholding the Royal Gorge the traveler has a superlative -comparison for all that is wonderful and grand in nature. He has seen -something which he can never forget, and of the many marvels of this -marvelous journey "Around the Circle," the greatest of them all, the -crowning glory, is the Royal Gorge. - -It will not be inappropriate to make some special mention of several of -the more important points of interest on the circle tour, and we add -below a short description of the "Royal Gorge," "Toltec Gorge," "Animas -Cañon," "Black Cañon of the Gunnison," and the "Marshall Pass." - - - - -THE BLACK CAÑON. - - -In all the world there is no place so beautiful, imposing, sublime -and awful, that may be so easy and comfortably visited, as the Black -Cañon, for the iron horse of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad has a -pathway through the cañon, and he draws after him coaches as handsome -and pleasant as those which he draws on the level plain. Along many -miles of this grand gorge the railroad lies upon a shelf that has been -blasted in the solid walls of God's masonry; walls that stand sheer two -thousand feet in height, and so close together that for most of the -distance through the cañon only a streak of sky, sometimes in broad -daylight, spangled with stars, is seen above. - - "I'll look no more; - Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight - Topple down headlong." - -Unlike many of the Colorado cañons, the scenery in this one is -kaleidoscopic, ever changing. Here the train glides along between the -close, regular and exalted walls then suddenly it passes the mouth of -another mighty cañon which looks as if it were a great gateway to an -unroofed arcade leading from the pathway of some monstrous giant. Now, -at a sharp turn, Chippeta Falls, a stream of liquid crystal, pitches -from the top of the dizzy cliffs to the bosom of the sparkling river -which dashes beside the road. Then a spacious amphitheater is passed, -in the centre of which stands Currecanti Needle, solitary and alone, a -towering monument of solid stone, which reaches to where it flaunts the -clouds, like some great cathedral spire. Truly there is no gorge in all -the Rocky range that presents such variety and grandeur as the Black -Cañon of the Gunnison. - -[Illustration: TOLTEC GORGE.] - - - - -MARSHALL PASS. - - -Marshall Pass is entered almost imperceptibly from Poncha Pass, and -the whole wonderful ascent might very readily be imagined as one and -the same. The summit is almost eleven thousand feet above the sea, and -the tortuous method by which the daring engineers of the Denver & Rio -Grande Railroad have achieved this summit can best be understood by a -glance at the cut illustrating the alignment of the track, shown on -another page. As the train progresses up the steep the view becomes -less obstructed by mountain sides and the eye roams over miles of -cone-shaped summits. The timberless tops of towering ranges show him -that he is among the heights and in a region familiar with the clouds. -Then he beholds, stretching away to the left, the most perfect of all, -the Sierras. The sunlight falls with a white, transfiguring radiance -upon the snow-crowned spires of the Sangre de Cristo range. Their sharp -and dazzling pyramids, which near at hand are clearly defined, extend -to the southward until cloud and sky and snowy peak commingle and form -a vague and bewildering vision. To the right towers the fire-scarred -front of old Ouray, grand, solitary and forbidding. Ouray holds the -pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the fertile Gunnison. -Slowly the steeps are conquered, until at last the train halts upon -the summit of the continental divide which separates the waters of the -Atlantic and Pacific. The traveler looks down upon four lines of road, -terrace beyond terrace, the last so far below as to be quite indistinct -to view. Wonder at the triumphs of engineering skill is strangely -mingled with the feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous -grandeur of the scene. - -[Illustration: ANIMAS CAÑON AND NEEDLE MOUNTAIN.] - - - - -TOLTEC GORGE. - - -The approach to this great scenic wonder prepares the traveler for -something extraordinary and spectacular. A black speck in the distance -against the precipitous surface of a frowning cliff is beheld long -before Toltec is reached, and is pointed out as the entrance to the -tunnel, which is the gateway to the Gorge. As the advance is made -around mountain spurs and deep ravines, glimpses are caught of profound -depths and towering heights, the black speck widens into a yawning -portcullis, and then the train, making a detour of four miles around -a side cañon, plunges into the blackness of Toltec tunnel, which is -remarkable in that it pierces the summit of the mountain instead of its -base. Fifteen hundred feet of perpendicular descent would take one to -the bottom of the gorge, while the seared and wrinkled expanse of the -opposite wall confronts us, lifting its massive bulwarks high above us, - - "Fronting heaven's splendor, - Strong and full and clear." - -When the train emerges from the tunnel it is upon the brink of a -precipice. A solid bridge of trestle-work, set in the rock after the -manner of a balcony, supports the track, and from this coigne of -vantage the traveler beholds a most thrilling spectacle. The tremendous -gorge, whose sides are splintered rocks and monumental crags, and whose -depths are filled with the snow-white waters of a foaming torrent, lies -beneath him, the blue sky above him, and all around the majesty and -mystery of the mountains. - - - - -ANIMAS CAÑON. - - -Animas Cañon is one of the wildest and most picturesque gorges in the -Rocky Mountains. Through it the Rio de las Animas Perdidas, or "River -of Lost Souls," finds its way to the valley below. For a dozen miles -north of Durango the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad traverses the fertile -and cultivated valley of the Animas in its approach to the cañon. Soon -the valley becomes more broken and contracted, the approaching walls -grow more precipitous and the smooth meadows give place to stately -pines and sighing sycamores. The silvery Animas frets in its narrowing -bed and breaks into foam against the opposing boulders. The road climbs -and clings to the rising cliffs, and presently the earth and stately -pines have receded and the train rolls along a mere granite shelf -in mid-air. Above, the vertical wall rises a thousand feet; below, -hundreds of feet of perpendicular depth and a fathomless river. The -cañon is here a mere rent in the mountain, so narrow one may toss a -pebble across, and the cramped stream has assumed the deep emerald hue -of the ocean. In the shadows of the rocks, all is solitary, and weird, -and awful. The startled traveler quickly loses all apprehension in the -wondrous beauty and grandeur of the scene, and, as successive curves -repeat and enhance the enchantment, nature asserts herself in ecstasy. -Emerging from the marvelous gorge, the bed of the cañon rapidly rises, -until the roadway is but a few feet above the stream. Dark walls of -rock are replaced with clustering mountains of supreme height, whose -abruptness defies the foot of man, and The Needles, the most peculiar -and striking of the Rockies, thrust their splintered pinnacles into the -region of perpetual snow. - -[Illustration: ROYAL GORGE.] - - - - -THE ROYAL GORGE. - - -The crowning wonder of this wonderful Denver & Rio Grande Railroad is -the Royal Gorge. Situated between Cañon City and Salida, it is easy -of access either from Denver or Pueblo. After the entrance to the -cañon has been made, surprise and almost terror comes. The train rolls -round a long curve close under a wall of black and banded granite, -beside which the ponderous locomotive shrinks to a mere dot, as if -swinging on some pivot in the heart of the mountain, or captured by a -centripetal force that would never resign its grasp. Almost a whole -circle is accomplished, and the grand amphitheatrical sweep of the -wall shows no break in its zenith-cutting facade. Will the journey end -here? Is it a mistake that this crevice goes through the range? Does -not all this mad water gush from some powerful spring, or boil out of -a subterranean channel impenetrable to us? No, it opens. Resisting -centripetal, centrifugal force claims the train, and it breaks away -at a tangent past the edge or around the corner of the great black -wall which compelled its detour and that of the river before it. Now -what glories of rock piling confront the wide-distended eye! How those -sharp-edged cliffs, standing with upright heads that play a handball -with the clouds, alternate with one another, so that first the right, -then the left, then the right one beyond strike our view, each one half -obscured by its fellow in front, each showing itself level browed with -its comrades as we come even with it, each a score of hundreds of dizzy -feet in height, rising perpendicularly from the water and the track, -splintered atop into airy pinnacles, braced behind against the almost -continental mass through which the chasm has been cleft. This is the -Royal Gorge. - - * * * * * - -The following is a description of the points of interest in the exact -order on the Trip Around the Circle, starting from Denver: - -=Castle Rock.=--32 miles from Denver, east side of track. A bold and -remarkable promontory rising from the plain. - -=Casa Blanca.=--50 miles from Denver, between Greenland station and -Palmer Lake, west side of track. An enormous white rock, 1,000 feet -long and 200 feet high, presenting the appearance of a castle. - -=Palmer Lake.=--52 miles from Denver. A beautiful sheet of water on the -exact summit of the Divide, altitude 7,238 feet. - -[Illustration: PIKE'S PEAK FROM THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.] - -=Glen Park.=--Half mile south of Palmer Lake, west side of track. -Colorado's Chautauqua. - -=Phœbe's Arch.=--One mile south of Palmer Lake, east side of track. A -natural archway through a massive, castled rock of red sandstone. - -=Monument Park.=--65 miles from Denver, distant view, west side of -track, from Edgerton station. A natural park filled with fantastic and -imitative rock formations. - -=Pike's Peak.=--75 miles from Denver, 5 miles from Colorado Springs. -The most famous peak of the Rockies, altitude 14,147 feet. Easy of -ascent from Manitou. - -=Manitou Springs.=--Manitou branch, 80 miles from Denver, 5 miles -from Colorado Springs. The Saratoga of the West. Popular summer -resort, wonderful effervescent and medicinal springs. Surrounded by -more objects of interest than any other pleasure resort in the world, -including "Garden of the Gods," "Glen Eyrie," "Red Rock Cañon," -"Crystal Park," "Engleman's Cañon," "William's Cañon," "Manitou Grand -Caverns," "Cave of the Winds," "Ute Pass," "Rainbow Falls," and "Bear -Creek Cañon." - -=Garden of the Gods.=--Manitou branch. One and one-half miles from -Manitou. Famous the world over as a most interesting and wonderful -park, abounding in strange and majestic rock forms. - -=Cheyenne Mountain.=--Two miles south of Colorado Springs. One of the -most beautiful of the Rocky Mountains, in which are the Cheyenne Cañons -and the Seven Falls. Near the summit of this mountain is the burial -place of the author and poet, "H. H." - -=Spanish Peaks.=--Two twin peaks rising from the plains, without any -foothills, forming a most striking picture. Visible all the way, to the -eastward, from Pueblo until the descent of Veta Pass into the San Luis -Valley is begun. Height of peaks respectively, 13,620 and 12,720 feet. - -=Sierra Blanca.=--This monarch of all the Rocky Mountains, and the -loftiest in the United States with but one exception, can be seen from -Garland station, and remains in full view until the San Luis Park is -left behind. Elevation, 14,464 feet. - -=Wagon Wheel Gap.=--Del Norte branch. The hot springs of the Wagon -Wheel Gap are famous for their curative qualities. The place is -exceedingly picturesque and has become a favorite health and pleasure -resort. The best trout fishing in the West. Distance from Denver, 310 -miles. Elevation, 8448 feet. - -[Illustration: ALIGNMENT OF TOLTEC GORGE DISTRICT.] - -=Creede.=--Del Norte branch. New mining camp of great promise. -Population 8,000. The latest and greatest mineral discovery. - -=Entrance to the Gap.=--Del Norte branch. The gap proper is a cleft -through a great hill with walls suggesting the palisades of the Hudson -and of about the same height. Through this gap flows the waters of the -Rio Grande del Norte, bright and sparkling, fresh from their mountain -sources. - -=San Luis Park.=--This park or valley is one hundred miles long by -sixty broad, altitude 7,000 feet, surrounded by mountains from 4,000 -to 7,000 feet higher than the plain. The soil is fertile, and by -irrigation is being developed into a fine agricultural region. Distance -from Denver, 250 miles. - -=Phantom Curve.=--After Sublette, 305 miles from Denver, has been -passed, the road makes a great bend around the side of a mountain; on -the left rise tall monuments of sandstone cut by the elements into the -form of weird and fantastic figures; this has been appropriately named -"Phantom Curve." - -=Toltec Gorge.=--From Big Horn, distant 298 miles from Denver, to -Cumbres, there is a succession of magnificent and awe-inspiring views. -About midway between the two, at Toltec station, 309 miles from Denver, -is Toltec Gorge. The road traverses the verge of this great chasm, the -bottom of which is 1,500 feet below. The best view is on the bridge -immediately after passing through Toltec Tunnel. - -=Garfield Memorial.=--Just beyond the bridge at Toltec Gorge stands a -monument of granite in memory of President Garfield. On the 26th day of -September, 1881, the National Association of General Passenger Agents, -at the time President Garfield was being buried in Cleveland, held -memorial services at the mouth of Toltec Tunnel, and since have erected -this beautiful monument in memory of the event. - -=Cumbres Summit.=--Distant from Denver, 329 miles. Summit of the -Conejos range. Elevation, 10,014 feet. - -=Trimble Hot Springs.=--Health and pleasure resort, 459 miles from -Denver, 9 miles from Durango and 36 miles from Silverton. The springs -are noted for their strong remedial character. Elevation, 6,644 feet. - -=Animas Cañon.=--Just beyond Rockwood, 469 miles from Denver, the -Animas Cañon begins. This gorge is formed by the breaking through the -range of the Rio de las Animas Perdidas. The road is built along a -shelf cut in the solid rock-wall of the cañon, which towers 500 feet -above and drops 1,000 feet below the track. In this it differs from all -other scenes on the line. - -[Illustration: ALIGNMENT OF MARSHALL PASS DISTRICT.] - -=The Needles.=--After emerging from the western extremity of Animas -Cañon, the traveler can see The Needle Mountains, the most peculiar and -striking of the Rockies, thrusting their splintered pinnacles into the -regions of perpetual snow. - -=Elk Park.=--Animas Cañon having been passed, the road enters Elk Park, -a beautiful little valley in the midst of the range, a spot rich in -material for the artist in search of new impressions. - -=Garfield Peak.=--At the western extremity of Elk Park rises Garfield -Peak, a grand and impressive mountain towering to a height of a mile -above the track. - -=Sultan Mountain.=--Silverton, the terminus of this branch of the -line, is 495 miles from Denver. It is surrounded by mountains rich in -mineral-bearing mines. One of the most picturesque of these is Sultan -Mountain, which reaches an elevation of 14,115 feet. - -=Ouray.=--Picturesque mountain town. Hot springs of medicinal -properties make this a resort for health and pleasure. The mines -surrounding Ouray are among the richest in Colorado. Population, 3,000. -Distance from Denver, 388 miles. Elevation, 7,640 feet. - -=Los Pinos Agency.=--The ruins of the old Los Pinos Agency can be seen -13 miles from Montrose. The old store house and council chamber are -still standing. - -=Cantonment of the Uncompahgre.=--Nine miles from Montrose the road -passes the Government post, where soldiers are still stationed. - -=Chippeta's Home.=--Four miles from Montrose can still be seen the late -residence of Chippeta, the widow of Ouray, the dead Ute chief, who was -always the friend of the white man. - -=Uncompahgre Mountains.=--After passing Montrose, 353 miles from -Denver, a fine view of the Uncompahgre Mountains, extending to the -southwest, can be obtained. Uncompahgre Peak, the monarch of the range, -rises to an altitude of 14,235 feet. - -=Cerro Summit.=--The ascent is commenced directly after leaving -Cimarron station on the westward journey. From here the Uncompahgre -Valley, its river and the distant, picturesque peaks of the San Juan -are within full sight of the traveler. - -=Cimarron Cañon.=--Western entrance to Black Cañon, the road passing -up Cimarron Creek, where it debouches in the Gunnison. The Cimarron -abounds in trout and the country round about swarms with large game. - -[Illustration: MANITOU.] - -=Currecanti Needle.=--Situated in a spacious amphitheater, midway of -the Black Cañon, this curious monolith towers upward like a great -cathedral spire. - -=Chippeta Falls.=--A beautiful waterfall near the east end of Black -Cañon, that plunges from the summit of the cañon wall, descending in a -sheet of snowy spray to the Gunnison River below. - -=Black Cañon.=--Twenty-five miles west from Gunnison. Along many miles -of this grand gorge the railroad lies upon a shelf hewn from the living -rock, which rises frequently to an altitude of over two thousand feet. -The cañon is sixteen miles in length, and abounds in many striking -features. - -=Gunnison River and Valley.=--Just after passing Gunnison City, 290 -miles from Denver, the valley of the Gunnison is entered, and upon the -right, as one journeys westward, flows the beautiful Gunnison river. - -=Mount Shavano.=--Shavano is a companion to Mount Ouray, and rises on -the opposite side of the track to an altitude of 14,238 feet. - -=Mount Ouray.=--At the summit of Marshall Pass, 242 miles from Denver. -An extinct volcano whose crater can be plainly seen. Altitude 14,043 -feet. - -=Marshall Pass.=--Begins six miles from Poncha Junction, at Mears -Junction. The summit of the Pass has an altitude of 10,852 feet. From -this point a magnificent view can be had of the Sangre de Cristo range -extending to the southeast. The pass is a scenic and a scientific -wonder, grades of 211 feet to the mile are frequent, and the ascent and -descent are made by a series of most remarkable curves. The streams -from the summit flow eastward into the Atlantic and westward into the -Pacific. - -=Poncha Pass.=--Two miles from Poncha Junction; leads up to Marshall -Pass. - -=Poncha Springs.=--Five miles from Salida. Noted hot springs. -Temperature of the water varies in the different springs, 100 in -number, from 90° to 185° Fahrenheit. A great health resort. Altitude, -7,480 feet. - -=Arkansas River and Valley.=--The railroad crosses the Arkansas River -at Salida, and from the bridge, and until the town of Poncha Springs -has been passed, a fine view can be had of the river and its fertile -valley. - -=Collegiate Peaks.=--Harvard, Yale and Princeton peaks, plainly seen -from the vicinity of Salida to the northwest. Altitude, respectively, -14,383 feet, 14,101 feet, 14,199 feet. - -[Illustration: BEAR CREEK FALLS.] - -=Sangre de Cristo Range.=--On approaching Salida, near the western end -of the Grand Cañon, there is a break in the walls through which fine -pictures of the Sangre de Cristo peaks present themselves. - -=The Royal Gorge.=--The climax of all the grandeur of the Grand Cañon -of the Arkansas lies midway in this wonderful chasm. The best view can -be obtained from the famous hanging bridge. Here the walls of the cañon -rise to a perpendicular height of 2,600 feet above the track. - -=Grand Cañon of the Arkansas.=--165 miles from Denver, between Cañon -City and Parkdale, eight miles long. The world-famed chasm through -which the river makes its way to the plains. - - * * * * * - -The following points of interest are located on the line of the Rio -Grande Southern Railroad between Durango and Ridgway: - -=Cliff Dwellings.=--Those interesting ruins are located in the Mancos -Cañon and the Montezuma Valley, some twenty miles to the south of -Mancos station, and easily accessible from that point by a delightful -drive over a mountain road. A journey to this historic spot will well -repay the time and trouble it would involve. Teams with guides and -drivers can be engaged at Mancos. - -=Lost Cañon.=--This small cañon is between Mancos and Dolores, and -hough not so long or high as numbers of others in the Circle tour, is -nonetheless interesting, as it possesses many novelties in the way of -mountain scenery. - -=Dolores Cañon.=--While this cañon is not particularly deep, its -natural beauties are manifold, and are sure to make a lasting -impression on the beholder. This cañon is passed just before arriving -at Rico. - -=Rico.=--An important mining town of some 2,000 inhabitants, -beautifully situated in the center of a huge amphitheater of high, -snow-capped mountains. - -=Lizard Head Pass.=--A mountain pass similar to Marshall Pass, crossing -the Uncompahgre Range at an elevation of 10,248 feet. The serpentine -windings of the railroad up the mountain sides are full of interest. - -=Lizard Head.=--A peculiar rock formation at the summit of the pass of -the same name resembling the head of a mountain lizard. - -=Trout Lake.=--A beautiful little lake of clear, cold mountain water, -filled with thousands of trout. Good accommodations for the sportsman -are near at hand, and a few days can be pleasantly spent here. - -[Illustration: MOUNT OURAY, EAST SLOPE OF MARSHALL PASS.] - -=The Ophir Loop.=--The descent down the mountain side after leaving -Trout Lake is called as above, and is one of the most daring and -intricate pieces of railroad engineering that exists in the world. - -=Telluride.=--Telluride is located on a branch from the main line some -ten miles away. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountains whose -faces are potted with innumerable mines, whose product is the chief -source of revenue to the 2,500 inhabitants of this beautiful mountain -town. - -=San Miguel River.=--Leaving Vance Junction, the line follows the -course of the San Miguel River through the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. - -=The Dallas Divide.=--This divide is over a spur of the Uncompahgre -Range on grades of three and tour per cent. Leaving the summit, going -eastward toward Ridgway and to the right of the train, is the main -range of the Uncompahgre with its soft shaded sides towering into -splintered pinnacles above. - -=Ridgway.=--The northern terminus of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad -and the junction of that road and the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad; a -city of some 1,500 inhabitants. Here are located the round-houses and -the shops of the Rio Grande Southern, giving employment to hundreds of -machinists and laborers. - -[Illustration] - - - - - HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. - - - =Located on the Line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.= - - =On or Easily Reached from the "Around the Circle" Trip.= - - - MINERAL SPRINGS. - - Manitou Springs Soda and iron. - Pueblo Magnetic well. - Parnassus Alkaline. - Carlile Soda. - Cañon City Soda. - Royal Gorge Hot springs. - Wellsville Hot springs. - Poncha Hot springs. - Waunita Hot springs. - Ouray Hot springs. - Salt Lake City Hot sulphur. - Buena Vista Cottonwood hot springs. - Heywood Hot springs. - Leadville Soda springs. - Siloam Springs Hot springs. - Steamboat Springs Hot sulphur, iron and soda. - Glenwood Springs Hot sulphur. - Wagon Wheel Gap Hot springs. - Antelope Springs Hot and cold. - Pagosa Hot springs. - Ojo Caliente Hot springs. - Trimble Hot springs. - - - PLEASURE RESORTS. - - Perry Park Buena Vista Ouray - Glen Park Twin Lakes Provo - Diana Park Glenwood Springs Lake Park - Manitou La Veta Cottonwood Lake - Beula Palmer Lake Evergreen Lakes - Salida Monument Park Steamboat Springs - Lake City Colorado Springs Wagon Wheel Gap - Cimarron Cañon City Trimble Springs - Salt Lake City Poncha Springs Antelope Springs - Trout Lake Rico Telluride - - - MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND PASSES OF COLORADO. - - - =With Their Elevation Above Sea-Level.= - - FEET. FEET. - Blanca 14,464 Grizzly 13,956 - Harvard 14,383 Pigeon 13,928 - Massive 14,368 Blane 13,905 - Gray's 14,341 Frustum 13,883 - Rosalie 14,340 Pyramid 13,895 - Torrey 14,336 White Rock 13,847 - Elbert 14,326 Hague 13,832 - La Plata 14,302 R. G. Pyramid 13,773 - Lincoln 14,297 Silver Heels 13,766 - Buckskin 14,296 Hunchback 13,755 - Wilson 14,280 Rowter 13,750 - Long's 14,271 Homestake 13,687 - Quandary 14,269 Ojo 13,640 - Antero 14,245 Spanish 13,620, 12,720 - James 14,242 Guyot 13,566 - Shavano 14,238 Trinchara 13,546 - Uncompahgre 14,235 Kendall 13,542 - Crestones 14,233 Buffalo 13,541 - Princeton 14,199 Arapahoe 13,520 - Mount Bross 14,185 Dunn 13,502 - Holy Cross 14,176 Bellevue 11,000 - Baldy 14,176 Alpine Pass 13,550 - Sneffles 14,158 Argentine Pass 13,100 - Pike's 14,147 Cochetopa Pass 10,032 - Castle 14,106 Hayden Pass 10,780 - Yale 14,101 Trout Creek Pass 9,346 - San Luis 14,100 Berthoud Pass 11,349 - Red Cloud 14,092 Marshall Pass 10,852 - Wetterhorn 14,069 Veta Pass 9,392 - Simpson 14,055 Poncha Pass 8,945 - Æolus 14,054 Tennessee Pass 10,418 - Ouray 14,043 Tarryall Pass 12,176 - Stewart 14,032 Breckenridge Pass 9,490 - Maroon 14,000 Cottonwood Pass 13,500 - Cameron 14,000 Fremont Pass 1,540 - Handie 13,997 Mosquito Pass 13,700 - Capitol 13,992 Ute Pass 11,200 - Horseshoe 13,988 Lizzro Head Pass 10,248 - Snowmass 13,961 - -Seventy-two peaks between 13,500 and 14,300 feet in height are unnamed -and not in this list. - - - ELEVATION OF LAKES. - - FEET. - Twin Lakes 9,367 - Grand Lake 8,153 - Green Lakes 10,000 - Chicago Lakes 11,500 - Evergreen Lakes 10,500 - Seven Lakes 11,806 - Palmer Lake 7,238 - Cottonwood Lake 7,700 - Trout Lake 9,800 - - - ALTITUDE OF TOWNS AND CITIES. - - Revised Since First Edition From Engineers' Measurements. - - FEET. FEET. - Alamosa 7,546 La Veta 7,024 - Animas City 6,554 Leadville 10,200 - Animas Forks 11,200 Las Pinos 9,637 - Antonito 7,888 Montrose 5,793 - Aspen 7,775 Malta 9,580 - Buena Vista 7,970 Manitou 6,324 - Cation City 5,344 Ojo Caliente 7,324 - Castle Rock 6,220 Ouray 7,640 - Colorado Springs 5,992 Ogden, Utah 4,286 - Crested Butte 8,875 Pogosa Springs 7,108 - Conejos 7,880 Pinos, Chama Summit 9,902 - Cottonwood Springs 7,950 Poncha Springs 7,480 - Cuchara 5,943 Palmer Lake 7,238 - Cumbres 10,015 Pueblo 4,669 - Delta 4,963 Red Cliff 8,671 - Del Norte 7,880 Rico 8,735 - Denver 5,196 Robinson 10,871 - Durango 6,520 Rosita 8,500 - El Moro 5,879 Ruby Camp 10,500 - Ft. Garland 7,936 Saguache 7,723 - Granite 8,945 Salt Lake City 4,228 - Grand Junction 4,583 Silver Cliff 7,816 - Gunnison 7,680 Silverton 9,224 - Glenwood Springs 5,200 Salida 7,050 - Howardsville 9,700 Telluride 8,758 - Irwin 10,500 Trimble Springs 6,644 - Kokomo 10,631 Westcliffe 7,864 - Lake City 8,550 Wagon Wheel Gap. 8,448 - - - INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS. - - Tickets will be placed on sale May 1, and continued until October - 31. - - Tickets for the journey "Around the Circle" will be sold for $28.00 - from Denver, Colorado Springs, Manitou and Pueblo. - - Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. - - Stop-overs will be allowed at any point or points on the trip for - any length of time within the life of the ticket. - - Side trips can be taken to any point on the line, not covered by - the round trip, at one-half the regular rates. - - The purchaser can have choice of route, going either via Silverton - and Ouray or Montrose and Ouray, or via the Rio Grande Southern - R. R. - - The journey "Around the Circle" can be comfortably made in four - days, with rests at Durango, Silverton and Ouray. Or the entire - thirty days can be profitably and pleasantly spent in viewing - the wonderful scenery of the trip. - - - SEVENTY POINTS OF INTEREST "AROUND THE CIRCLE" - - FOR ONLY - - $ 28 $ - - ALL SEEN - FROM THE TRAIN - - A THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - DENVER U.S. CANTONMENT - ROYAL GORGE OURAY - THE GRAND CAÑON UNCOMPAHGRE CAÑON - Arkansas River BEAR CREEK FALLS - COLLEGIATE RANGE MOUNT ABRAHAMS - PONCHA HOT SPRINGS Ouray & Silverton Road - Poncha Pass Red Mountain - SANGRE DE CRISTO SULTAN MTN. - Atlantic Slope SILVERTON - MT. SHAVENO ELK PARK - MT. OURAY NEEDLE MTNS. - Marshall Pass Garfield Peak - Pacific Slope Animas Cañon - Chippeta Falls TRIMBLE HOT SPRINGS - CURRECANTI NEEDLE RIO LAS ANIMAS - GUNNISON RIVER DURANGO - Black Cañon Fort Lewis - CIMARRON CAÑON Mancos Valley - Cerro Summit Lost Cañon - UNCOMPAHGRE MTNS. DOLORES RIVER - - DALLCE DIVIDE Sierra Blanca - RICO LA VETA PASS - TELLURIDE Mule Shoe Curve - TROUT LAKE SPANISH PEAKS - LIZARD HEAD PUEBLO - OPHIR LOOP CHEYENNE MT. - INDIAN RESERVATION PIKE'S PEAK - CUMBRE'S RANCE MANITOU - LAS PIONS VALLEY COLORADO SPGS. - GARFIELD MEMORIAL GARDEN OF THE GODS - TOLTEC TUNNEL PHŒBE'S ARCH - TOLTEC GORGE PALMER LAKE - Phantom Curve CASA BLANCA - Rio Grande Riv. CASTLE ROCK - San Luis Valley - - * * * * * - - - -Transcriber Note - - -Minor typos corrected. All references to Canon were changed to Cañon. - -Several paragraphs were split to accommodate the placement of -illustrations. The "Seventy Points of Interest" reproduced above only -has 69 names shown! - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AROUND THE CIRCLE: ONE THOUSAND -MILES THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. 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