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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..817b8d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #67769 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67769) diff --git a/old/67769-0.txt b/old/67769-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index caffb69..0000000 --- a/old/67769-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3795 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Bee Keeping for Profit. A New System -of Bee Management (1880), by Lizzie E. Cotton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Bee Keeping for Profit. A New System of Bee Management (1880) - First Edition. - -Author: Lizzie E. Cotton - -Release Date: April 4, 2022 [eBook #67769] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials provided by The Internet - Archive and placed in the Public Domain. - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT. A NEW -SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT (1880) *** - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold.=. - -[Illustration: Mrs. Lizzie E. Cotton] - - - - - BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT - - A NEW SYSTEM - - OF - - Bee Management, - - FIRST EDITION. - - - BY - - Mrs. Lizzie E. Cotton, - - WEST GORHAM, MAINE. - - - - =ILLUSTRATED.= - - 1880. - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by - - MRS. LIZZIE. E. COTTON, - - in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - Chapter. Page - - I.--Honey Bees 13 - - II.--The Controllable Hive and New System of Bee Management 22 - - III.--Patent and non-Patent Hives 29 - - IV.--Feeding 32 - - V.--Boxes for Surplus Honey 40 - - VI.--Swarming and Hiving 45 - - VII.--Anger of Bees 55 - - VIII.--Bee Moth 59 - - IX.--Robbing 62 - - X.--Profits of Bee Keeping 66 - - XI.--Changing Old Queens for Young Ones 74 - - XII.--Rearing and Introducing Queens 77 - - XIII.--Sources of Honey 84 - - XIV.--Location of Hives 89 - - XV.--Wintering Bees 92 - - XVI.--Transferring Bees 98 - - XVII.--Italian Bees 103 - - XVIII.--Construction of Controllable Hives 107 - - XIX.--Monthly Duties 113 - - XX.--Conclusion 120 - - - - - PREFACE. - - -In presenting this work I have no apology to make. After an experience -with bees dating almost from childhood, and a careful study of all -works published on the subject of bees, and the journals devoted to -that particular branch of rural affairs, I find _theory, guess-work, -prejudice and selfish motives_ are so prevalent, as to confuse and -discourage the _beginner_, and finally, all who are seeking after -information by which they may make bee keeping a source of profit, and -who wish to adopt a correct and scientific system of bee management. - -In my early efforts at bee keeping, I met with many failures and heavy -losses, from being confused by the contradictory teachings of selfish -or ignorant bee keepers, and from a lack of that personal knowledge -which experience, and a close study of the nature and habits of bees -has now placed in my possession. After many unsuccessful experiments, -and careful investigation, and a close study of the natural habits and -instincts of bees, I have succeeded in inventing a hive and new system -of bee management which completely changes the whole process of bee -keeping, and renders the business _safe_, _pleasant_ and _profitable_. - -_The hive and system of bee management recommended in these pages is -entirely original with me, and is not patented._ I invented the hive -and plan of management for my own use, as I am engaged in raising -honey for market, and wish every swarm of bees I keep to produce the -greatest possible amount of surplus honey, and in the most convenient -and attractive marketable form. I am induced to place this work before -the public at the earnest and oft repeated requests of friends and -correspondents. The work has been hurriedly written, as I had but -little spare time to devote to this matter, consequently sentences are -not all, perhaps, grammatically arranged. I have made the beautiful of -secondary importance to the useful. I have endeavored, however, to make -my statements so clear as to be readily understood and comprehended by -every person of intelligence, although he may be wholly unacquainted -with bee keeping. - -Every person, who has a farm or garden, should keep bees, at least one -or more swarms, to furnish honey for the use of the family. There is no -greater luxury than nice honey in clean snow-white comb in nice glass -boxes, such as is produced by my new system of bee management. This -best of all sweets is now within reach of every one who has a plot of -ground large enough to set a hive of bees upon. - -After bees are once located in my hives but very little expense is -required to keep them in proper condition, so that they will give a -good quantity of nice box honey every year. - -Under the old methods of bee keeping, bees required a great deal of -care and attention, especially during the summer season. And then the -winters were very destructive to them, many often losing their entire -stock; or if they were not a total loss, they were so damaged by the -winter as to be of no profit, and two severe winters in succession were -quite sure to finish them. - -This was very discouraging, and many have abandoned bee keeping, -entirely discouraged. - -On my plan a complete revolution is effected in bee management, as will -be shown in this work. - -There is in my opinion no pursuit which offers greater inducements -than bee keeping, especially to women. There are _very many_ who are -confined indoors nearly the whole time, excluded from the air and -sunshine, to the great injury of their health; and after this great -sacrifice they barely succeed in obtaining a livelihood. To such, -bee keeping offers great inducements, such as improved health, and -a handsome recompense for all labor performed. I am acquainted with -many who have commenced bee keeping on my plan, who are meeting with -complete success. A lady bought a swarm of Italian bees of me in 1874, -and she writes me that from that _one_ she increased her stock to over -twenty swarms the third season; besides she got over one hundred pounds -of _nice_ honey from the swarm I sent her the _first season_. Here I -wish to be clearly understood; I do not wish to hold out inducements -which will never be realized, for the purpose of causing any one to -commence bee-keeping; yet I believe bee keeping on correct principles -should be encouraged, until bees enough are kept to collect all the -honey now allowed to go to waste, and which if collected by bees and -stored in nice glass boxes, would add millions of dollars to the wealth -of the country. - -Since the day I introduced my Controllable Hive and new system of -bee management to the notice of the public, the worthless bee hive -swindlers and their tools have been boiling over with wrath against me, -lying and slandering me through the public journals, and especially -through the Bee Journals, and all because, that I, a woman, had -succeeded in inventing a bee hive and new system of bee management -superior to anything yet produced, and which was fast coming into use -on its merits among bee keepers; consequently the sale of other hives -was _decreasing_ in the same proportion. I first perfected the hive -and system of management for my own use, with no thought of making it -public, but through the kindness of my personal friends, and others -who have visited me to enquire into the new system, it has become known -from Maine to Oregon, and adopted by many of the most intelligent bee -keepers in the United States. And in compliance with that command in -the good book which reads--"_Let your light shine_," I am determined to -spread the truth, regardless of all opposition from the ignorant and -selfish crowd which is constantly attacking me. - -Without egotism I claim a thorough knowledge of the habits and -instincts of bees. Consequently I claim a thorough knowledge of the -requisites of a hive, and all fixtures pertaining to it, as well as a -knowledge required to make bee keeping successful and profitable; and -all this has been acquired in the school of _experience_ and _practice_. - -Kind reader, I respectfully submit the following pages, and ask for -them a candid and unprejudiced consideration. Read _carefully_ and -_understandingly_, and apply to bee keeping, and I feel certain you -will realize many times the cost of this book in the increased profits -of your bees, managed as here directed. - -The statements herein set forth are the result of many years _practical -experience with bees_ with a view of making the raising of honey for -market profitable, and the general management of bees successful. - - MRS. LIZZIE E. COTTON. - -West Gorham, Maine, Aug. 5th, 1880. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - HONEY BEES. - - -[Illustration: QUEEN BEE.] - - -A SWARM of bees contains _one_ Queen, thousands of workers and in the -summer season a limited number of drones. The queen is the only fully -developed female in the swarm. She never leaves the hive except on two -occasions--when leading a swarm, and when but a few days old, to meet -the drone, or male bee, in the air, for the purpose of fecundation. It -appears from close observation that only one impregnation is operative -during life, as old queens have never been known to leave the hive for -that purpose. - -The natural life of the queen averages from four to six years. -Queens sometimes become entirely barren before death; at other times -the eggs of old queens are found to produce only drones. No matter -whether deposited in drone cells, or worker cells, the progeny will -be drones invariably. When drones are reared in worker cells they -will be very much dwarfed in size, notwithstanding the worker bees' -attempt to overcome the difficulty, by lengthening the worker cells, to -accommodate the monstrosities. - -The queen has a sting, yet she may be handled with impunity, for she -will not use it except when in deadly combat with a rival queen. She -receives the most marked attention from all members of her family; -deprive a swarm of their queen, and they will, as soon as the loss is -known, manifest the greatest agitation and alarm, and if the swarm is -one just hived, and only a few hours from the parent stock, they will -all return at once to the old home. They appear to fully realize the -vast importance of a mother, and that with no means to supply her place -they must soon perish; and to avoid their impending fate they return -to the old hive. With old stocks deprived of their queen the result is -different, as will be shown further on. Every one who keeps bees should -strive to become familiar with the appearance of the queen, that they -may be able to recognize her at a glance among thousands of workers, -as it will often be necessary to look her up in my new system of bee -management. In looking for the queen in full hives, she is usually -found on the brood combs, unless in opening the hive she may have been -frightened, and taken refuge in some hiding place, as the corner of the -hive, at the bottom ends of the comb-frames, or some similar hiding -place. After we become familiar with her appearance and movements we -are able to find her quite readily, even when the hive is crowded with -bees. - -[Illustration: WORKER BEE.] - -The worker bee is much smaller than the queen. On the worker devolves -all the labor of the swarm. They collect honey, pollen or bee bread, -and propolis, or bee glue. The workers produce wax from honey, and from -the wax they build comb, in which to store the honey and bee bread -they collect, for their own use in time of need. Wax is produced from -honey, as butter is produced from milk. Bees do not collect wax, but -they collect honey, which by a natural process in the stomach of the -bee is changed, and exudes from between the rings of the abdomen in -minute scales of wax, which is detached by the bee and moulded into -comb. The worker bee possesses a sting, and is ever ready to make -use of it in defending home and treasure. This is a wise provision -of nature, for were it otherwise, the other insect and animal tribes -would appropriate the treasures of the bee--honey, wax, &c., and this -industrious little insect would soon become extinct. - -The worker bee possesses an instinct but little inferior to reason in -the human family. A few examples will show their wonderful instinct: -Twenty hives of bees, placed in a row, but a few inches distant one -from the other, all of like size, shape and color; the bees to our -perception _exactly_ alike, no difference in size, shape, color or -action;--yet every bee of this vast number (which at some seasons of -the year would amount to more than six hundred thousand bees) in these -twenty hives knows its own hive, and if let alone will not enter any -other, except it be for the purpose of securing the honey therein for -its own use, or in other words to plunder and rob its neighbor. There -is no intercourse between swarms--each is a separate colony governed -by a queen. If through mistake the subjects of one enter the domain -of another, a war of extermination is commenced at once. To test -this point, I changed two hives so that they were reversed, the one -occupying the place of the other. This was done while the bees were out -collecting honey in a warm day. The first bees that entered the hive -were instantly killed, and this was kept up until the hives were set in -their proper places. The ground in front of the hives was covered with -hundreds of dead bees. A bee is killed almost _instantly_ by the sting -of another. - -The young bee on its first excursion from the hive does not leave its -home without precaution. With a view to a safe return, it turns its -head towards its home, rises slowly on the wing, at first describing a -circle of only a few inches in diameter, as it recedes slowly backward, -seeming to so mark every object surrounding the hive as to enable it to -return and enter, without the slightest danger of entering any other -hive. Bees in Spring, in their first flight, mark their location in -this manner. After the location has been thus marked, the bees leave -the hive in a direct line, and return by their way-marks, with perfect -accuracy and regularity. - -[Illustration: DRONE BEE.] - -The drone bee is a clumsy fellow. The drones are the male bees. Where -a dozen or more hives are kept, there is no necessity for more drones -than one swarm would naturally rear, yet each one of the twelve swarms -carries out its natural proclivities, and rears a large number of these -useless consumers, not one in a thousand of which is ever of any use. -Swarms should not be permitted to rear a large number of these non -producers. A few are indispensable, yet we should take this matter into -our own hands. Not one drone in five thousand ever fulfils the purpose -for which it was created. Fifty drone cells is enough for one hive, and -when more than this number is constructed (sometimes they will number a -thousand or more in a hive) cut out all but a very few, and fit in a -piece of worker comb in their place--it is more profit to raise workers -than drones. Drones leave the hive, to sport in the sunshine in large -numbers, every fine afternoon in June and July. When on the wing they -make a very loud, coarse buzzing. They have no sting and may be handled -without the least fear. - -When the honey season is over, the worker bees drive out the drones, -and a prosperous swarm will not tolerate a drone in the hive through -the winter. - -In September I have seen a quart or more of drones clustered together -near the entrance of the hive, from whence they had been driven by the -bees. The workers on guard about the entrance of the hive, would not -let one pass into the hive, though they were constantly making the -attempt. As soon as one would approach the entrance to the hive to -pass in, a half dozen or more workers would seize him, and drag him -struggling to the edge of the platform and pitch him off, at apparent -great danger to his portly and clumsy body. - -I wish to impress strongly on the minds of all who adopt my plan of bee -management, the great importance of cutting out all the drone cells, -except a very few in every hive. Don't leave _more than_ fifty, half -that number will do. After you have once cut out the surplus drone comb -and fitted in worker comb, there is no further trouble with an excess -of drones from that hive. It takes a great deal of honey to rear a -large brood of drones, and still more to support them in idleness two -or three months. - -[Illustration: HONEY CELL--WORKER CELLS--QUEEN CELLS] - -This engraving represents a section of comb in a miniature comb frame, -containing all the different cells found in a hive. At the top are -cells for storing honey. At the extreme right, near the bottom, is a -queen cell complete, as it appears in queen raising, or in one week -after a swarm has been deprived of its queen, in a full stock, or as -it is found in stocks that swarm naturally, at the time the _first_ -swarm issues. Though often found in different places on the comb, and -often to the number of a half dozen or more in one stock or hive, yet -its relative position is _always the same_. It will always present the -same appearance, whether at the edges or on other parts of the comb. -Near the queen cell is seen the worker cells, _containing brood_ in all -stages of growth, from the tiny egg just deposited by the queen, to the -full-grown grub, or young bee. Near the worker cells, at the bottom, -are the empty drone cells. - - - Breeding. - -The natural increase of the honey bee is very imperfectly understood -by the great majority of bee keepers. Very many suppose that young -bees are raised only in the warm summer months, and their ideas of the -_modus operandi_ of increase are exceedingly vague. I find that strung -stocks have maturing brood nearly every month in the year--have found -brood in stocks in December and January. - -The queen lays all the fertile eggs in the swarm; consequently all -increase is dependent on her. I say the queen lays all the _fertile_ -eggs, because occasionally under certain circumstances we find eggs -laid by workers, but under my observation such eggs never mature. -Egg-laying workers are known to be such, by eggs being found in stocks -that have been deprived of their queen, and the means of rearing -another. This is one of the wonders of nature, of which no satisfactory -solution has been given. The points established as to the sex of bees -are these: the queen is a fully developed female; the drones are fully -developed males; the worker,--_what is it?_ The worker is said by -some to be neuter. If this last is true, how are the eggs produced? -Others say the worker is a female with generative organs _not fully -developed!_ A pretty nice point--to credit them with the power to -produce eggs, without imparting vitality sufficient to germinate. - -We will leave this knotty question, as it is of no consequence in the -practical management of bees for profit. Suffice it then to say, the -queen is the mother of the entire family, and without a queen no swarm -of bees can long - -The time taken to perfect the three different kinds of bees, queen, -worker and drone, varies slightly. The queen will mature in about -sixteen days from the time the egg is deposited in the cell. The drone -and worker each in about twenty days. This time is subject to some -variation, governed by the weather, and number of bees in the hive, -which causes the temperature of the hive to be greater or less. A high -temperature will forward, while a low temperature will retard, the -maturing of the brood. - -Swarms with healthy prolific queens increase rapidly through the spring -and summer. The queen at this season will deposit from one thousand to -fifteen hundred eggs per day. Some writers estimate higher. To secure -so large a number of eggs, and consequent increase of bees, we must -have healthy prolific queens to start with, and offer every available -facility to encourage the desired increase. How to do this successfully -is shown further on. - -If we wish to secure a good harvest of honey, we must have the bees to -collect it, and we must have them at the proper time, viz: _when the -harvest is ready_. To do this we must encourage breeding to the utmost -in _early spring_. - -Early in the spring the queen enlarges the circle containing the brood; -perhaps, if the stock was very strong, and everything favorable, she -laid a few eggs in one or two combs near the center of the cluster of -bees in January. Perhaps the cells occupied at that time were less -than a dozen, all compact together in a circle, occupying less space -than the size of a silver half dollar. As she progresses, this circle -is enlarged, and the cells on the opposite side of this comb is used; -then the next comb and so on, at the same time enlarging the circle, -keeping the brood _compactly together_, so that the bees, by clustering -around it, can keep up the required warmth to forward to maturity the -brood. As the young bees hatch, the queen proceeds with her duties of -laying eggs, until every brood cell is occupied, and as fast as a bee -matures and leaves its cell, she is on hand with an egg to occupy the -vacant place. This is kept up without cessation till swarming time, -when the hive becomes crowded with bees, then, as preparation for -swarming, the queen deposits eggs, from which the bees by a special -course of treatment, rear queens. When they are sealed over, as shown -in the plate, the old queen leaves the hive with the _first_ swarm to -seek a new home. In about ten days the young queens hatch and lead out -after-swarms--second, third, etc. When swarming is over, the strongest -queen destroys the others, and reigns over the old swarm till another -swarming season. This is the process in natural swarming; on my plan we -improve upon the process, as will be shown in the proper place. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - THE CONTROLLABLE BEE HIVE AND - NEW SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT. - - -IT is now nearly ten years since I perfected the Controllable Bee Hive -and New System of Bee Management. I commenced bee keeping with the -common box hive, with no knowledge whatever, of the habits of bees. I -was not long in learning that I could not make bee keeping a success -with the box hive, and I also found that the _thousand and one_ patent -hives were no better, and the great majority of such hives, _inferior_ -to the simple box hive. I found there was no practical method of -controlling the swarming propensities of bees. All such hives would -swarm or not, as seemed to suit the caprice of the bees, which I found -very perplexing. Stocks under the old plan of management, sometimes -show every indication of swarming, such 'as clustering out, etc., yet -they adhere pertinaciously to the old stock through the entire summer, -a peck or more of them clustering idly on the outside of the hive, -through the season; and if one put on boxes, it is all the same, they -will do nothing. And such swarms often starve early the next winter, -after passing the summer in idleness. Other stocks with apparently not -so many bees will swarm several times; often swarm so much as to reduce -the number of bees so low that the bee moth will effect its destruction -during the summer; there not being bees enough to protect the combs -from the attacks of this destructive little insect. This swarming -problem I found very difficult to solve. There were so many conflicting -theories, I found I could gain no positive, reliable information from -any source, to aid me, and that I must solve the problem by practical -experiment. - -Experience is a good teacher, but often a very costly one. Some told -me if I wished to prevent swarming, I must cut out the queen cells, -which the bees constructed preparatory to swarming. This was simply -impossible, with the box hive, sol constructed a hive with movable -frames, so the bees, could build their combs in the frames, and each -comb of the hive could be lifted out separately. But when I attempted -to prevent swarming by cutting out the queen cells, I found if T was -to thwart nature in that way, I had, to say the least, a big job on my -hands. I could cut out the queen cells, but within twenty-four hours -after I had done this, the bees would have others constructed, and be -ready to swarm, and as I kept cutting, they would keep building. They -had the advantage of numbers and position, and when I opened the hive -_every day_ and destroyed such, to them, important work, they were not -long in declaring and proclaiming me to be an enemy to them, and they -would attack me whenever occasion offered. I soon found that if not -_impossible_ it was certainly _impracticable_ to prevent bees swarming -by cutting out the queen cells. It was a surprise to me that this plan -should be recommended by bee keepers claiming to be well skilled in bee -management. After proving this plan of no value, I was told if I would -contract the entrance to my hives so the queen could not pass, I could -thereby successfully prevent swarming, as the swarm would not leave -without the queen. This looked to me like a very _nice_ operation, to -say the least, in fact, _more nice than wise_. However, I determined to -test the plan. I accordingly contracted the entrance to my hives, and -lo! the _drones_ being larger than the queen _they could not pass!_ -so they clustered about the entrance, and in their efforts to get out, -completely blocked up the passage, so the workers could not pass. Yet -this plan of contracting the entrance was claimed to be protected by -_letters patent of the U. S._ I found this plan for preventing swarming -of no value whatever. Very many other plans were tendered me and -tested with like results. I was all this time pushing my experiments, -and learning something from experience every day. I was determined to -arrange and construct a hive which would render bee keeping successful -and profitable, and I can say at the present time, my labors have been -rewarded with success. - -I ought to go on and write out a description of all the old methods of -bee keeping, and all the patent bee hive humbugs, with the thousand -and one _non_-patent hives and fixtures, got up expressly to swindle -bee keepers out of their hard earnings, by a class of rascals, many of -whom never owned a swarm of bees, and who care not one cent whether -bee keeping is a success or otherwise, if they can pocket a round -sum by their fraud. Were I to write out minutely these points, this -work would become too voluminous and extended; besides it would be of -no _practical_ value to the bee keeper, who wishes to keep bees for -profit. I will not, therefore, give such minute descriptions of all the -old systems, hives, etc., but will confine myself more closely to such -practical information as will be of value to the bee keeper. - - - Swarming Controlled. - -_How to control swarming_ is truly an important question. I believe -that the successful controlling of swarming is the key to success and -profit in bee keeping. Now how shall we do it? I will tell you. But -first a few preliminary words. If swarms are desired, we arrange in -early spring to have them issue in the swarming season, and at such a -time as will best suit our convenience. When no swarms are wanted, we -turn the whole force of bees to storing surplus honey in small glass -boxes, throughout the entire season, and have no swarms, yet have the -same increase of bees that would be gained if they swarmed. Then all -the bees work at storing honey in boxes, instead of swarming out; and -to any one who has not tested the matter it is surprising to see the -amount of honey which a swarm of bees will store when not allowed to -swarm, and _fed judiciously_, ample box room being provided of _easy -access_, so that all the bees have room to work, and by this plan we -are not constantly watching and waiting for swarms with uncertainty -throughout the entire summer, for we know with certainty when and where -to look for swarms. In my plan, the swarming properties of bees are -effectively controlled, without frequently disturbing or overhauling -them, but by observing rules strictly in accordance with the habits and -instincts of bees.[1] - -[Footnote 1: Here let me be clearly understood. I admit that bees will -sometimes swarm, with abundant room for work in their boxes. Yet I -claim that on my plan all increase by swarming may be prevented without -great trouble or perplexity, such as has heretofore attended all -attempts to bring about this greatly to be desired object. If a person -commences bee keeping, with a certain number of swarms in controllable -hives, and in early spring gives the bees access to the hive boxes, -and later, after they commence work in them, gives the bees access to -the top boxes, giving them otherwise ordinary care, (except to feed if -desired,) but a small proportion will swarm on the average yearly. Much -the larger portion will work in the boxes without swarming out, and -give a handsome yield of surplus box honey, the yield of course being -governed by the amount of feed given them, and the yield from flowers, -etc. But if increase of stocks is preferred, rather than surplus box -honey--if the bees are not given access to the boxes, but confined in -their labors to the brood section of the hive, being fed as directed, -nearly every one will swarm, and swarm early.] - -If you wish your bees in controllable hives to swarm keep the partition -in place at the sides of the brood section, and the honey board over -the top; or in other words, keep the bees confined in their labors to -the central or brood section of the hive. Now, if you wish them to -swarm in any particular week of the swarming season, ten days before, -remove the old queen. (It is well to kill her, and to do so, take with -her about a pint of bees, and put them in a small miniature hive, six -or eight inches square, with movable frames, like those in the central -part of the controllable hive. Keep them shut in, twenty-four hours; -then give them their liberty, and they will work the same as a large -swarm through the summer; but will not winter. If such queens are known -to be _very old_ it is best to destroy them when we take them from -the swarm. _Keep only young, vigorous queens._) The bees in the hive, -from which you have taken the queen, will in nearly every instance, -construct queen cells _immediately_ to replace the loss of their queen. -At the earliest possible moment, they seem to sense fully their loss, -and to know that if they do not get another queen at once, their loss -is irreparable. They usually will construct a number of cells, perhaps -a half dozen or more. These will hatch in about ten days, and then -swarms will issue.[2] - -[Footnote 2: Should any stock fail to swarm within two weeks from the -time the queen is removed, at the end of that time, examine such stock, -and if they have no queen they must be furnished with one. About one -stock in twenty, deprived of its queen as directed, will fail to rear -queens.] - -If you wish to devote but little time to your bees, and are not -particular as to the time of swarming, and wish to have but _very few -swarms, or perhaps none at all_, early in the spring, as soon as bees -commence their work, put on the boxes (sides and top,) and give the -bees access to them; side boxes first, top boxes later. By this course, -but a very small proportion of your stocks will swarm, (if this plan is -to be practiced each year, it will be necessary to replace the _old_ -queens with _young_ ones every three or four years. If this is not -done, queens will die, or become barren from old age, and consequently -loss of stocks follows. Keep this point in your mind: _young healthy, -prolific queens, are essential to success_,) as they will have ample -room in the boxes for their labor. Occasionally a hive treated in -this way will swarm, and, if you wish to have no increase of stocks -whatever, if a swarm comes out, hive it in a light box, and _as soon as -this is done_, go to the hive which they came from and smoke lightly; -if the bees are cross, lift out the comb frames from the brood section -with the bees adhering; examine each and every comb _carefully_ for -queen cells, _and cut off all but one_. Success here depends on _care -and thoroughness_, for if you leave more than one cell, your bees may -swarm out again in a day or two. - -After this is done, spread a sheet on the ground; set a light box, -like the one in which you have the bees, near one side; raise the edge -towards where you will shake the bees one inch or a little more, to -give the bees a chance to enter the box. Shake the bees from the hive, -by a quick, jerking motion, upon the sheet, the most of them some two -or three feet from the box. With a large spoon or ladle, put a few up -near the box, so they will enter, and disturb the others gently with a -quill or light brush. When they commence to enter the box, they will -set up a loud and continual humming, or call, and the bees on the -sheet, if lightly disturbed with the quill or brush, will spread out, -and march towards the hive, while those on the wing will alight, and -join them in the march. Now look _closely_ for the queen, and capture -her. If she is not found before the bees get into the box, shake them -out again, and go through the same process, till you find her. As soon -as you have secured the queen, the bees, in a few minutes, finding -themselves destitute of a queen, and not having the means of raising -another to take her place, will rise on the wing, and return to the -old stock from which they came, and will not come out again, but will -work in the boxes throughout the season. I will treat of this subject -of swarming no further in this chapter. The merits of the Controllable -Hive and New System of Bee Management, will be fully shown further on -in this work, and the most explicit instructions given for rearing bees -with profit. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - PATENT AND NON-PATENT HIVES, - BEE JOURNALS, ETC. - - -I HAVE learned from bitter experience, as has nearly every one, who has -kept bees for any length of time, the dishonesty, and utter disregard -for truth, of a class of speculators who prey upon the unsuspecting -bee-keeper. Patent hives--the great majority of them--are a curse and -a hindrance to successful and profitable bee keeping. I have no time -to describe the multitude of worthless patent hives, and the many -tricks and swindles of the venders of the same, but I advise every bee -keeper to consult his own interests, and have nothing to do with them. -Ninety-nine out of every hundred are a swindle. I have tested their -merits and know whereof I affirm. - -The More-patent hives against which I wish to caution the bee-keeper, -and particularly the beginner, are those offered by A. J. Root, -publisher of "Gleanings in Bee Culture." Root makes the "Gleanings" the -medium for advertising and palming off upon the public his wares. Don't -invest in his trash if you wish to keep bees with profit. I am sorry -to find that many of the bee journals and bee-keepers' associations, -are conducted on prejudiced and selfish motives, and in the interest -of some individual, or company of men, for the sole purpose of making -money from the sale of some particular hive or fixture, without regard -to merit, or value to the practical bee-keeper. All honest discussion, -with a view to bring out facts and figures to guide the inexperienced -bee-keeper in his labors, I am sorry to say, is suppressed. The -bee journals should be the disseminators of _useful_ knowledge -among bee-keepers. I am sorry to find the reverse true with many of -them. After a thorough investigation, I feel it my duty to advise -bee-keepers, and those contemplating bee-keeping, _not to take all for -granted that they read in the bee journals_, for if you do, you will be -very likely to soon find yourself robbed of your money, and your bees -ruined. - -Very many who write for the bee journals with high sounding words, -claiming to be adepts in bee culture, have really no _practical_ -knowledge of the nature and habits of bees. We have supported a host -of speculators in our business, for a long time; the object of this -class has ever been, how best to secure our hard earnings, and with -no desire or effort to aid in rendering bee keeping more profitable -and desirable. The country is full of this class, and they always -combine to crush out real merit in anything pertaining to bee culture, -brought before the public by individual bee-keepers, who are laboring -to advance the cause by giving their experiences, gained from hard -every-day labor among bees. - -For many years I have written articles on bee culture, for the leading -agricultural journals and newspaper. I have thus given much of my -experience in detail, with no thought of further reward than the -satisfaction of having contributed to aid bee-keepers in raising bees -with greater profit, believing if all would so contribute of their -practical experience with bees, great mutual benefit might be gained, -and rapid progress made in successful and profitable bee culture. In -consequence of my course in spreading information with a view to aid -the cause, the class referred to in this chapter, and their tools, are -boiling over with wrath towards me, lying and slandering me through -the public press, and by every other means which their depraved natures -can invent. All because I have succeeded by hard study in perfecting -a hive and new system of bee management, which is fast coming into -general use among bee keepers; consequently the sale of their worthless -trash is decreasing rapidly. But I am anxious to get through with -this part of my work, and reach the practical part, where I have the -greatest confidence in my ability to give such information as will -render bee keeping profitable and desirable. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - FEEDING. - - -FEEDING bees, when judiciously managed, is the stepping stone to large -profits from them. - -Bee-keepers who have heretofore attempted to feed bees have met with -poor success. - -A bee-keeper of my acquaintance paid fifty dollars for a patent -apparatus for feeding bees together in the open air. The result was, -soon after being fed, they commenced fighting among themselves. The -weaker stocks first fell prey to the stronger, then the stronger in -turn were attacked, and the final result was, nearly every stock was -ruined, and the plan abandoned in disgust after the first season's -trial. - -Now it is plain to every intelligent person, that in order to receive -the greatest possible profit from bees, they must be fed. There can be -no question as to the great benefit to be derived from feeding bees. -The only question is, how, when and what to feed. It is as much a -necessity to feed bees, as to feed our domestic animals, cows, sheep, -&c., or to apply manure to plants, or any crop the farmer cultivates, -to stimulate growth and increase the product, and consequent profit -of the same. We should look upon that farmer as either a fool or a -lunatic, who should furnish his domestic animals no food, except what -they obtained by grazing in the pastures and fields, the year round. -And do you think his cows treated thus, would yield him a large -product of butter, cheese and milk, and consequently a good profit in -dollars and cents? Do you think he would find his cows, managed thus, -so profitable as to induce him to keep cows to any great extent? Let -a farmer manage thus--take his cows to the barn, milk them, then turn -them out the year round to graze and provide for themselves, taking -them up only to milk them, furnishing them with no food except what -they procure by grazing--how long, think you, would such a farmer have -cows to milk? Yet this is a parallel case with the bee-keeper who -furnishes his bees with no feed except what they can procure by their -own industry. And is it surprising that bees treated thus pay no profit? - -Again, the farmer who should year after year plant his corn, potatoes, -etc., apply no manure, furnish no cultivation, yet expect to succeed in -farming, harvest large crops, and get a good yearly profit in dollars -and cents, and grumble because he did not, and at last abandon the -business, asserting that there was no profit in farming, furnishes -another parallel case to the bee-keeper who lets his bees shift for -themselves, and then grumbles because they pay no profit, and at last -abandons the business, asserting that there is no money in bee-keeping. - -It being self evident that it is profitable to feed bees, it now -remains to show how to do it with the greatest possible profit. - - - Receipt for Feed. - -To eight pounds of coffee crushed sugar, add two quarts of soft water, -and whites of two eggs; bring to the boiling point over a _slow_ fire, -being very careful not to burn it. Skim off carefully all skum or -sediment that rises, so that the feed, when cool, will be perfectly -clear and about the consistency of new honey. - -[Illustration: FEEDER.] - -To construct the feeder,[3] get a tin-worker to make you a tin dish, -with perpendicular sides, nine inches square inside, three inches deep, -_without a bottom_. Around the lower edge turn the tin out about one -half inch all round, for the dish to rest on when placed on the hive -for feeding the bees. Around the top of this dish put a stout wire -to keep it in shape Get another tin dish made 8 by 8½ inches square -inside, two and one-half inches deep, with a bottom. Place the smaller -dish inside the larger one, the bottom of the inner dish _even and -level with the lower edge of the outer dish_, which brings the top of -the under dish one-half inch lower than the upper edge of the outer -dish; then when the outer dish is covered, (as it will be in feeding,) -there will be a halt inch space between the cover over the outer dish, -and the top of the inner dish. - -[Footnote 3: With the aid of the engraving, there can be no mistake in -constructing the feeder, particularly as its position on the hive is -shown under head of Construction of Controllable Hive, Chapter XVIII.] - -Place one of the shorter sides of the inner dish against the inside -of the outer dish, in such a position that there will be a half inch -space all round between the outer and inner dish, except at the side -where you fasten them together; across this one side join them firmly -together with solder; at the bottom near the opposite end solder brass -or tin about one inch wide, across the half-inch space from the bottom -of the inner dish to the edge of the outer dish, to hold the dishes -firmly in place. Near the upper edge of the outer dish solder an some -strips of lead about one inch long, by one-half inch wide, to turn -down over the corner when put on, to hold it in place. Now get out two -pieces of half-inch board, eight inches long, and two and one-half -inches wide; with a thick saw, cut channels crosswise of the pieces, -three-eighths of an inch apart and one-fourth inch deep, the whole -length of the pieces, being careful to run your saw _square across the -piece every time_. Next get out pieces to correspond with the number of -channels, eight inches long, two and one-half inches wide, one-eighth -inch thick, (sawed out so the sides will be rough, to enable the bees -the better to hold fast to them, when taking feed). These pieces are to -stand edgewise in the inner dish. With a sharp knife bring the ends of -the pieces to a thin edge, so they will easily slip into the channels -in the half inch pieces. Put the pieces with the channels, one across -each end of the inner dish, the channels of each facing the inside of -the dish, then slip the ends of your pieces that are one-eighth thick -down through the channels, to the bottom of the inner dish. Before you -put them down into the dish, cut out a small notch, in what will be -the lower end of each piece after it is put down into the dish, so the -food when poured in will flow to all parts of the feeder. The pieces or -slats when all put edgewise in the dish will reach to the bottom and be -on a level with the edges of the _inner dish_. - -Now for the cover: get out a piece of board a half-inch thick, nine and -one-fourth inches long, four inches wide. In the centre of this piece, -with a sharp bit, make a one-inch hole; cover the hole with fine wire -cloth, bent a little convex. Put this piece of board over the outer -dish, with wire cloth next to the inside of the dish, (put it across -that end where the dishes are soldered together,) hold it in place by -turning up over it the pieces of lead soldered on near the upper edge -of the outer dish. Cover the bottom of the dish with glass, held in -place in the same manner, by the leads. - -Your Feeder is now finished. Set it over the brood section on the top, -at the rear, the wood cover next to the back of the hive, the glass -toward the front. Cover that portion of the brood section of the hive, -not covered with the feeder, with a honey board, so no bees can get up -into the cap of the hive. - -Now to feed, pour the feed in at the inch hole, in the cover. The -bees pass from the hive up between the sides of the outer and inner -dishes, in the half-inch space, over the sides of the inner dish, in -the half-inch space between the cover of the outer dish and the edges -of the slats that are placed edgewise in the inner dish, and pass down -_between the slats_, after feed in the inner dish. The hole in the -cover should be kept closed with a cork, to confine the heat to the -hive, exclude insects, etc. - -When first commencing to feed a stock, scatter some of the feed over -the tops of the frames in the brood section; also on the sides of the -dishes on each side of the half-inch space leading lo the feed, and on -top of the slats of the feeder, so the bees may find the way to the -feed. After they once learn the road, they will need no coaxing to -induce them to take the feed given them. The first warm days in early -spring, as soon as the bees can fly a few hours in the middle of the -day, mix corn meal with rye meal, equal parts, and set out, in pans or -other shoal dishes, near the hives. The bees will carry this to their -hives in considerable quantities. It it used as a substitute for pollen -or bee bread, and is very essential in forwarding the increase of bees -in early spring. The meal should be fed _very early_ in spring, for as -soon as the bees can collect pollen from the natural sources--trees, -shrubs, flowers, etc., they will not take this meal. - - - Feeding for Early Swarms. - -If you wish early swarms, keep the bees confined in their labors to -the brood section of the hive, or in other words, do not give them -access to the boxes, and commence as early in the spring as the bees -begin to fly in the middle of the day, and feed each stock at evening -about one-half pound of the liquid feed. Continue this till your swarms -issue, then discontinue feeding. - - - Feeding for Surplus Honey. - -If you wish surplus honey instead of swarms, put on your side boxes as -early in the spring as the bees commence brisk work on flowers,--as -a general rule, say a few days before fruit blossoms appear. Feed as -directed for swarms until about ten days before white clover blossoms, -then put on the top boxes, leaving room only for feeder. Then for ten -or twelve days feed them all they will take. Feed at evening. They -will at first, perhaps, take from five to ten pounds every night. -_Crowd them hard_, for the object is now to get every part of the brood -section (not occupied by eggs and brood) filled with honey; and if -possible, crowd the bees into the boxes to commence the work of comb -building, so that during the yield of honey from flowers, you can get -every ounce collected, stored in the boxes. - -By _early and judicious feeding_, we have encouraged breeding so that -now our hives are filled, almost to overflowing, with bees, ready to -gather the harvest from the flowers as soon as they commence to yield -honey. - -Discontinue feeding, while the yield of honey continues in full supply -from the flowers. At the close of the yield, if you have boxes half -filled or more, feed all they will take up for a few days, or until -your boxes are finished. - - - Feeding for Winter. - -The last of September or first of October feed such stocks as are short -of stores, to winter them. Each stock should have twenty pounds of -honey in the brood section to winter safely. If they have less than -that, feed until they have that quantity, or take a frame of honey -from a stock that has some to spare, and exchange with the one that is -short, and so proceed until all have sufficient stores to winter safely. - -In no case take out frames at the close of the season, and leave that -space without a frame, or with an _empty_ frame. At the commencement -of winter every hive must (to winter safely) have its full number -of frames _filled_ with comb, no matter if they are not filled with -_honey_ (if the hive has the required number of pounds,) but each frame -must be filled, or _nearly_ filled with comb, or there is great danger -of loss from sudden changes of temperature through the winter. - -In feeding for box honey, it often requires more than one pound of feed -to secure a pound in boxes, for the bees consume some while storing -it, and they often find some place in the hive which, like the crowded -omnibus or street car, is not so full but that additions may be made. - -The reader will bear in mind this simple fact: _Bees do not make honey, -they simply collect it._ Honey undergoes no chemical change in the -stomach of the bee. - -Several years since my bees had access to several molasses hogsheads, -and the result was, I found _pure molasses_ stored in my hives, in the -same comb with nice white honey. I am satisfied that the bee does not -_make honey_, but _collects it_. My feed is prepared and recommended in -view of this fact, and in perfect accord with all points bearing upon -this subject. - -The feed is of the same color as the nicest, white clover honey, and -when put in boxes by the bees with the honey collected from flowers, (I -have no doubt in many instances in alternate layers in the same cell -with honey from flowers,) it cannot be distinguished, either in color -or taste, from honey collected _wholly_ from flowers. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - BOXES FOR SURPLUS HONEY. - - -IN the last chapter directions were given, when to put on boxes, but -it is important to know more about this matter, the kind of boxes to -use, how made, etc. I shall recommend a glass-box; that is, glass sides -with wood corner-posts, top, and bottom,[4] such as I use with the -Controllable Hive. The size and description of box is as follows, viz: -get out a piece of board six and three-sixteenths inches long, by four -and three-sixteenths inches wide; three-sixteenths inch thick for the -top of box; another, same size, for bottom. For the top boxes, that is, -the boxes that are to be placed over the brood section, with a sharp -bit make four one-inch holes in one of the pieces, for the passage of -the bees from the hive to the top boxes; next get out four pieces, -five inches long, five-eighths square, for corner-posts to the boxes. -Rebate two sides of each post about one-fourth inch square, to receive -the glass sides and ends, which are held in place by small tin points. -Get glass for the boxes 5 × 5½ inches square for the sides, and 3½ × 5 -inches square for the ends. Nail the bottom and top to the ends of the -posts, having the corner of the post come out even with the corners of -top and bottom. A small (half-inch) finishing brad will hold the posts -in place. While nailing, hold the box perfectly square. - -[Footnote 4: These boxes are shown in engravings under head of -Construction of Controllable Hive, Chapter XVIII, which, with the -description here given, cannot fail to be understood.] - -For the side boxes, omit the holes in bottom, and leave out the glass -from one end, and in place of the glass put in a piece of wood five -inches long, two inches wide, three-eighths inch thick; place this -piece in the center at the end, leaving an open space next to each -corner post at that end for the passage of the bees from the hive to -the boxes. - -These boxes are just wide enough for two combs running the longest -way of the box. Before putting in the glass, if you have any pieces -of white, clean comb, it will be a great advantage to stick two small -pieces of this comb in each box, where you wish the comb built. Place -the pieces in the top of the box two inches apart. Melt the edge of the -comb and apply in place where you want it, while hot; hold it in place -till it cools, and it will remain. - -The bees will commence work much sooner in boxes with the comb than -they would without, even if the pieces of comb are not more than an -inch square. - -These boxes, when well filled with honey, will each weigh about four -and one-half pounds. Honey in the boxes is very attractive, and is -sought for in the market by customers who have purchased in this form. -Honey put up in these nice glass boxes shows its superior quality at a -glance, and customers prefer to purchase in such boxes, with no tare -deducted for weight of box, to purchasing in the ordinary wood box with -the weight of the box deducted. - -In taking these boxes from the hive, when filled with honey, in warm -weather, I recommend the following method: Take the boxes off early -in the morning, and carry them to some out-building, and put them in -a clean, tight box or barrel; place the boxes in such a manner that -the openings in the boxes will be free for the passage of the bees -from them. Spread over the box or barrel, a thin piece of cloth. The -bees will leave the boxes, and collect on the under side of the cloth, -which must be turned every few minutes, until all are out, except a few -drones and very young Lees; these can be taken out with a pencil. To -facilitate the removal of the bees from the boxes, if any are obstinate -about leaving, remove the glass in the sides of the boxes, _if the -cover is not fastened to it_. The greater part of the bees from these -boxes will return to their hives; excepting a very few young ones which -had never before been away from the hive; these will be lost. Thirty -boxes like the ones here recommended fit each controllable hive--ten on -each side, and ten on top over the brood section.[5] - -[Footnote 5: When the box frames or partitions are taken out in the -honey season, the bees will often, if the stock is strong, spread out -over the bottom, so that in putting the frame in, a large number will -get crushed. To prevent this, get out two pieces of wood, each about -one and one-half inches wide, and one-fourth inch thick, one eighteen -inches long, the other twenty-two inches long; one edge of the long -piece bevel to a thin edge, about the shape of a carpenter's chisel. -Nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short piece at -right angles with it, with the beveled edge down, so the beveled edge -will be level with the end of the short piece; also bevel the lower end -of the short piece. When the bees are spread over the bottom of the -box section, with this instrument push them gently back to the brood -section. To do this, thrust the instrument down into the box section -with the beveled edge down; taking hold of the end of the short piece, -or handle, work the bees gently back to the brood section, and when -close up to the combs of the hive, let it remain to keep the bees from -spreading over the bottom till you get the box frame down in its place, -then remove it, and push the box frame up close to the brood section, -so the ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs, as the inside -board of the partition was when the combs were built. If this is not -done, and a large space is left, the bees will either lengthen the -cells in the outer comb of the brood section, or build a new comb, -between the ends of the boxes, and the outer comb of the brood section. -In either case, we would find it very troublesome when we remove the -boxes, and wish to put in the partition for wintering. Be sure to put -the large box frame up close to the combs of the brood section, that -is, leave barely space enough for the bees to pass between the ends of -the boxes, and the outer comb of the brood section.] - -When boxes are to be taken off, use tobacco smoke freely, to quiet the -anger of the bees. Puff smoke in at the entrance of the hive, before -you touch it, then start the _top_ boxes from their fastening, giving -the bees a puff or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the -top and sides. - - - Cake of Honey in Boxes in Warm Weather. - -Considerable care is necessary for the preservation of honey in boxes -removed from the hives in warm weather. As soon as the bees are all out -of the boxes, seal up all openings to the boxes, and set them away (in -the same position they occupied in the hive, so the honey will not leak -from the cells) in a _dry, dark, cool room_. We must now guard against -the moth. - -As in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed to the dead -carcase, so is the moth directed to honey-comb left without bees in -the summer season, and by a similar process is each destroyed. When -the bees have been off about ten days, or perhaps a little less if the -weather is very warm, examine closely for the first appearance of the -moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes. Their presence may -be known by small, thread-like webs or cocoons on the surface of the -comb, growing larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth. If no remedy -is applied, these worms will completely destroy the beauty of the honey -in the boxes in a very few days. Watch the boxes closely, and on the -_first_ appearance of the least sign of worms in the boxes, fumigate -with burning sulphur, thus: open the passages in the boxes; have ready -a tight, clean box; saturate some _very dry_ pine shavings with melted -sulphur. After placing your boxes of honey in the box, set a saucer or -plate in the box at the bottom, away from the honey boxes, so they will -not take fire. Do not use too many shavings; if you do, it will injure -the honey comb in the boxes, by giving it a green color, and imparting -to it a disagreeable taste; a half-dozen shavings each four inches long -is enough. Place them in the dish and ignite them, and cover closely, -so no fumes can escape; let them remain for a _few minutes_, (not more -than five, less is often sufficient; it depends something on the amount -of sulphur adhering to the shavings, as well as the size of box, number -of boxes to be fumigated, etc.) With a little practice you will manage -correctly and successfully. As soon as the boxes are fumigated, seal up -_every opening carefully_, and set away as before directed, in a _dry, -dark, cool room_. Watch the boxes for a few days, to be sure the worms -are all killed. If you find they are not, give them another dose of the -sulphur. After the worms are all killed, and every opening to the box -sealed up, wrap each box separately in paper, and they will be safe -through the summer. - -How the eggs of the moth get into the boxes, has always puzzled -bee-keepers. It is hardly possible for the moth miller to pass through -a hive crowded with bees, to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes. How -they get there must be guess-work--that they are there, is well known -to many bee keepers. I feel very confident that the eggs are deposited -there after the boxes are taken from the hive, and while we are getting -the bees out of the boxes. - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - SWARMING AND HIVING. - - -UNDER the old systems of bee keeping, swarming was very imperfectly -understood. And even at the present time it is amusing to see how many -old bee-keepers manage their bees. This is a class of old fogies, who -denounce all improvements and progress in bee keeping, and who, year -after year, move in the same tracks in the management of their bees, -asserting that they know all about bees that is worth knowing. It is, -to say the least, amusing, to see how this class of bee-keepers manage -when their bees swarm. - -In the middle of some very warm day in June or July, the alarm "_bees -swarming_," is sounded. Immediately the whole household is turned -out, some beating tin pans, some sounding horns, some shaking cow -bells--anything and everything with which to make a terrible din is -caught up in the excitement, and every member of the household works -with the sole aim of making as much noise as possible. This is done to -_make the bees cluster!_ _If this is not done, they will leave for the -woods!_ I should think the poor bees would leave any way, to get rid of -the noise and the foolish whims of their owner. But no, they dislike -to leave the place of their nativity, so in ten minutes or less from -the time they leave the hive, they settle in a cluster on some object, -generally within a half-dozen rods of the hive. And they would have -done so in this case if no noise had been made. _The noise did not -affect them in the least._ - -Now the bees are to be hived, and we will see how it is done in the old -way. - -The bees in this case have clustered on a limb of a valuable pear tree. -"Very sorry they have pitched there," says the man of perfect knowledge -in bee keeping; "I dislike to injure that tree, but there is no help -for it." - -But first a hive must be prepared. It is not quite ready. (This is bad -management.) It must be washed out thoroughly on the inside with salt -and water, and rubbed over with some sweet scented herbs. A bottom -board must be got ready etc., etc. At last the hive is ready. Now this -wise bee keeper places a table near where the swarm clustered, sets -his hive on the table, raises one edge four or six inches, takes his -saw--Oh, it is a pity to cut that nice limb full of fruit from the -pear tree; but it must be done, thinks this man of perfection in bee -management. - -He grasps the limb firmly near the cluster of bees. They are _very -cross, and uneasy_. They have been clustered an hour or more, while he -has been getting his hive ready. He saws off the limbs on which the -bees are hanging, and places it carefully, with the bees adhering, on -the table, by the side of the hive, covers all _very nicely_ with a -clean sheet, and leaves them alone to enter the hive. At _about sunset_ -he will place the hive with the bees in it on the stand it is to occupy. - -At the time designated (about sunset) he goes out to his hive on the -table. It has been a very hot afternoon, and the hive was where it -received the full force of the sun's rays. He carefully raises the -sheet. There is the limb on which the bees clustered, but where are -the bees, they are not on the limb? Why, in the hive, of course. That -is where he expected to find them. He peeps carefully under the hive -to see how they are getting along, but astonishment is depicted on his -countenance when he discovers that his hive is empty. His bees have -left for other parts beyond his knowledge. He tries to think of some -reason why the bees have gone, and seeks to lay the blame upon the -hive. "Oh!" he says "I guess they did not like the hive, but I guess I -shall have better luck next time." - -To a progressive bee keeper, one who has correct and practical -knowledge of the natural habits of bees, it is very plain why they -left. They were actually driven away by mismanagement. The heat of the -sun pouring down upon them, was enough of itself to drive them off. -Then placing the limb, with the cluster adhering to it, on the table -near the hive, showed lack of knowledge of the natural habits of bees. -The hive might as well have been in the house, as placed where it was. -Then the hour or more taken to get the hive ready, gave the bees time -to send out their scouts, to look up a location of their own, and when -these scouts returned, they left with them for a new home. T contend -every swarm does this, viz: They swarm out of the old parent stock, -led by the old queen. They cluster on some object, as a tree, brush -or vine, near the old home. Then they immediately send out a few bees -or scouts to look up a new home. These scouts may be gone a longer or -shorter time. When they return, if they find the bees clustered where -they were when they left, they soon lead them off to the new quarters, -but if before the scouts are sent out, or before they return, the -swarm is hived and placed on the stand it is to occupy, then the swarm -will not leave, for the scouts know not where to find them, or if they -should find them, the bees would seldom leave a good clean hive, for -a home in the woods. These scouts may often be seen playing about the -place where a swarm has clustered, for several days after the swarm has -been hived. - -Had this bee keeper placed his hire on the table, _as soon as the bees -were clustered_, and raised the front edge one inch, instead of four -or six inches, and then, instead of cutting off the limbs, if he had -taken a basket or pan, placed it beneath the cluster of bees, and by a -sudden jar of the limb dislodged them from it into the basket or pan, -then emptied them down in front of the hive, and sprinkled lightly with -a little water, at the same time disturbing them gently with a quill or -light brush so they would not collect around and block up the entrance, -except a very few that may be flying in the air (and these will return -to the old hive,) in this way getting them all into the hive, and -immediately carrying it to the stand it was to occupy, covering it with -a board to shade it from the hot rays of the sun, or placing it in the -shade of a tree, he would have saved his bees, the damage to his pear -tree, and much perplexity. - -By the old methods of managing bees, there were no means of knowing -when to expect swarms; consequently the bees were sometimes watched -all summer, in expectation of swarms any pleasant day, as outside -indications were fa vol able for them; yet they would often adhere to -the old hive throughout the entire summer. - -With the controllable hive and new system of bee management, as shown -in this work, swarming is brought completely under the control of the -bee keeper. It is well for him to understand _correctly_ what are the -requisites and preparations for natural swarming by the bees, when left -to themselves in a natural state. They are as follows: The bees must -be obtaining honey freely, either from flowers, or from feed supplied -them. The combs must be filled with brood in all stages of growth, from -the egg just deposited in the cell, to the perfect bee just emerging. -(And from this, bee keepers will note what conditions are required -at the time swarms are forced, as recommended in my plan.) When this -condition of affairs is reached, the bees construct queen cells, (that -is, if they deride to swarm; they will do as they like about it, if -left entirely to themselves,) from which in about sixteen days the -queens will hatch, unless the bees should change their intentions, and -decide not to swarm, and destroy all the queen cells. Remember, they -are having it all their own way. When these cells are sealed over and -finished is the time (if everything is favorable), when the first swarm -leaves, led off by the old queen. Some of the most reliable works on -bees have taught that the queen cells _must be half finished before the -queen will deposit the egg that is to produce the queen;_ but this, I -find by close observation, is a mistake; for if you take the queen away -from a stock, _with no queen cells in any stage of formation in the -hive_, the bees will rear a queen _from a worker egg, deposited in an -ordinary worker cell_. And who shall say they do not do this when the -queen is present? I am satisfied they do. - -Thus we see in _natural_ swarming, _with the bees left to themselves_, -the old queen leaves with the first swarm, at about the time the queen -cells are sealed over and finished, which is about eight days before -the young queens hatch. - -When the young queens hatch, after-swarms (as second and third issues, -or all after the first,) will issue. Second swarms may be expected in -about eight days after the first. This time will sometimes vary, as -the hatching of the queen somewhat depends on the weather, the number -of bees left in the old stock, etc.; a low temperature retards the -hatching, while a high temperature forwards it. - -At evening of about the eighth or tenth day after the first swarm, by -putting your ear close to the hive you will hear, very plainly, every -few minutes, several clear and distinct "peeping" sounds, very sharp at -times, then hoarse and dull. This sound proceeds from the young queen -just hatched. When it is heard, look out for a swarm the next day; -though it sometimes happens that one or two days will intervene before -they will issue. But as long as the sound continues, be on the lookout -for swarms. This "peeping" can always be heard before a second swarm -issues, if we will take the trouble to listen. The time between second -and third swarms is invariably from one to four days. It is useless to -look for after-swarms from a stock _after twenty_ days from the first. -They are generally all out within sixteen days from the issue of the -first swarm. I have given in another place, under the head of "Swarming -Controlled," instructions how to manage swarming under my new system. -Some additional information I will give in this connection. - -Just before swarms are expected, if there are no trees near your hives, -or if there are large trees from which it would be difficult to take -a swarm of bees were they to cluster on the branches, procure several -evergreen trees, such as spruce or fir, three or four feet high. -Leave the limbs on, excepting about a foot at the bottom. Sharpen the -trunks, so they can be set in the ground and lifted out with ease. With -a bar make large holes, about a foot deep, in front of your hives, -some distant about six feet, others from twelve to thirty feet. Set a -half-dozen or more of these trees in these holes, putting in by the -side of them a small stone or piece of wood, to hold firmly in place -and prevent swaying by the wind. When your swarms issue, they will -be very likely to cluster on some of these trees, when they can be -conveniently gathered in the Controllable Hive. - -In hiving, if the bees have clustered on some one of the trees set -for them, place the Controllable Hive on the stand it is to occupy, -allowing the stand to project two feet in front of the hive. Draw back -the bottom board under the brood section ten or fifteen inches, to give -the bees a good chance to enter the hive. _Shade the hive well._ Now -go to the tree on which your swarm is clustered. Remove the stone or -piece of wood that holds it in place; lift the tree, carefully avoiding -any jar, carry it to the hive, and hold the cluster down to the stand -and close up to the hive, _as near the entrance as possible_. Then give -the tree a sudden jar, sufficient to dislodge the cluster of bees. -They will fall directly at the entrance of the hive, and immediately -commence to enter. Sprinkle _lightly_ with water, and _gently_ disturb -those that stop about the entrance, with a quill or brush, till all -are made to enter the hive. Then slide the bottom board forward to its -place and the work is done. - -Should the bees cluster on some large tree or other out of the way -place, the manner of hiving must be varied. Set your hive near by with -a wide board in front to keep the bees out of the grass and dirt. -Arrange the hive as before directed. If the bees are clustered on a -small limb, high above your reach, secure a basket to a pole, and raise -it directly beneath the cluster. Dislodge the bees from their position, -when they will fall directly into the basket, which you should take -down quickly and shake the bees from it down to the entrance to the -hive, and proceed as before. Keep the limb on which they were clustered -in motion for a few minutes, to prevent their return. Should they -cluster on the body of a tree, or a large limb, where they cannot be -shaken off, set your hive near by, as before directed, and with a -handled dipper dip them off and turn them down in front of the hive -near the entrance. Dip _very carefully_, so as not to crush any of the -bees. They will not attempt to sting if you treat them well, and prove -to them that you are their friend. After you have dipped off a portion -of the bees, and got them moving into the hive, if the queen is with -them, they will all leave the cluster and join their companions who are -entering their new home. But if the queen remains with the cluster, as -soon as those entering the hive discover that she is not with them, -they will leave the hive and rejoin the cluster. So it is well to -keep dipping as long as you can get any of the bees, or till you are -_certain_ the bees are leaving the cluster and entering the hive of -their own accord. - -It sometimes happens in natural swarming, that when a swarm issues, led -by the _old_ queen, which has occupied the hive for a year or more, -that she finds herself unable to fly, and drops down in front of the -hive. In this case, if left to themselves, the bees, after flying about -for perhaps five or ten minutes, will return to the hive from whence -they came, and remain until the young queens hatch, issuing again, -about the time a second swarm would have come out, or perhaps a little -earlier. - -If you are on hand you can prevent the swarm returning, but you must -be lively. If you find the bees are flying longer than usual without -clustering, and appear scattered and disorganized in their movements, -look in front of the hive from which they issued, for the queen. You -will probably find her within two or three feet of the hive. Put her -in a tumbler, and cover closely, to prevent her escape. As soon as you -find the bees have commenced to return to the old hive, set it back out -of the way, and throw a sheet or some other covering over it.[6] Then -set your Controllable Hive in its place, with the bottom board drawn -back as directed in hiving a new swarm. Set the tumbler containing the -queen over the brood section, so the confined queen can pass down into -the hive, but leaving no chance for her to escape by any other way. The -bees will then enter the hive readily. And as soon as all are in, which -will be in a few minutes, remove the hive to a new stand and shade as -directed before. Set the old stock back in its former place. - -[Footnote 6: If other hives are near, on each side, it will be well to -throw the covering over them also, to prevent the swarm entering any -other than the designed hive, as they might possibly do, if the hives -were only a few feet distant.] - -The foregoing circumstance often happens when bees are managed on the -old swarming plan, and queens that are unable to fly are usually very -old. On my plan of management such cases are of rare occurrence. - -Natural swarms usually issue between nine o'clock in the forenoon, and -one o'clock in the afternoon. Occasionally one will issue earlier in -the forenoon or later in the afternoon; but as a general rule they make -their appearance between the hours specified. - -Very early swarms hived in Controllable Hives should have access to -the boxes on one side only. In about ten days after being hived, and -as soon as the bees are well at work in these, give them access to the -other side. Swarms that are hived late in the season, will not require -boxes, until the next season, as it is necessary to have the brood -section filled, or nearly filled, before the bees have access to the -boxes. - -It is important that we have the combs in the brood section built -_straight in the frames_, so as to be easily lifted out _separately_. -To aid in securing this object, when a swarm is first hived in a -controllable hive, raise the rear of the hive four inches, by putting -under it a piece of joist, having the hive perfectly level from side -to side. This gives the frames a pitch forward, and will greatly aid -in securing straight combs. Let the hive remain in this position for a -week or ten days, then set it down level. If you have it to spare, one -frame filled with comb placed in the brood section near the center will -insure straight combs in the balance. If no precaution is taken in this -direction, the bees will _sometimes_ build the comb crosswise of the -brood section, notwithstanding the triangular comb guides in the frames -of each controllable hive. As straight combs in the brood section are -very important, we should employ every available means to aid in -securing them. - -It is well to keep on hand a few plain boxes, each with four movable -frames, like those in the controllable hive. If at any time a swarm -comes out at the _very last of the honey season_, hive them in one of -these boxes. They will probably enlarge or quite fill the four frames -with comb, and perhaps store a little honey. Then, in the fall, put -these four frames, with the bees and comb, in a controllable hive, and -add two frames, well filled with honey, from a stock that can spare it. -In this way you will build up a good stock for winter, whereas if you -had hived them in a full sized controllable hive so late in the season, -they would probably have put a little comb in each of the six frames, -but not enough to winter, rendering it necessary for you to feed with -the liquid feed in the fall. It is better to have four frames nearly or -quite filled with comb, than to have six frames with a very little comb -in each. - -It sometimes happens that a swarm of bees, which has worked well in -boxes through the entire honey season, will swarm out about the time -the yield of honey ceases. If managed on the old plan, such swarms are -_worthless_, but by hiving them in a box with four movable frames, as -directed, they make valuable stocks. All such swarms may be returned to -the old stock, as directed in another chapter, yet we sometimes wish to -increase the number of our stocks to the utmost, and it is convenient -to know how to make valuable stock of these late issues. Then they can -either be returned or hived, whichever the bee keeper thinks is most -for his or her interest. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - ANGER OF BEES. - - -THE anger of bees, when once thoroughly aroused, is much to be dreaded, -as the results which follow are often of a very serious nature. In my -own case, I can handle bees with perfect impunity. They rarely make -any attempt to sting, no matter what liberties I take with them. I -always intend to be very careful, and handle them gently, making them -understand that I do not mean to harm them. In my first efforts in -handling bees they were very apt to sting me, for the reason that I did -not understand their nature; consequently they mistook my intentions, -and often forced me to seek shelter from their attacks. Now I seldom -use any protection when working among them. Often, in transferring the -bees and comb from the old box hive to the Controllable Hive, I roll -up my sleeves, and with no protection whatever, for the hands or face, -cut out the comb from the old hive, with the bees adhering to it, and -arrange and fasten it in the new hive, without the bees making any -attempt to sting me. - -I would not recommend any one to do this, until they are so well -acquainted with, and accustomed to handling, the bees, as to understand -perfectly their every characteristic, and be quite certain that they -will not make an attack. It is better to protect the hands and face -from their attacks, as you will thus feel greater confidence in -yourself, and can perform all operations without fear of stings. It -is well to understand what will arouse the anger of bees, and cause -them to sting. If we breathe upon them, when they are in or about the -hive or boxes, they deem it an insult, and will dash at and sting -us at once. Any sudden jar of the hive is instantly resented. All -quick, spiteful motions about the hive, such as running, jumping, -etc., is noticed, and quite sure to be followed by a sting. The finger -pointed at them with a quick, spiteful motion when they are standing -as sentinels about the entrance of the hive, often provokes stings. -If they come buzzing around, threatening to sting, perhaps striking -your hat almost like a bullet, and should you return the compliment -by striking at them with your hand, they will be quite sure to sting -you. The better way is, if unprotected, to hold down your head so as to -protect your face, and move away from the hive as quietly as possible. -When the bees find you are retreating, they will not follow you far. -Always remember that if one bee stings you, others are very sure to -_immediately_ follow, unless you retreat. I believe that bees have a -language by which they make known to each other their wants and wishes; -and I feel certain they know those who have the care of them, and -become accustomed to the motions and appearance of those who are seen -by them daily. - -The members of my family are seldom stung by the bees, notwithstanding -I sometimes have fifty hives or more where we pass within twenty feet -of them many times a day, while the bees are flying in thousands about -each hive. In the middle of the day, in the honey season, the air for -many rods about the hives is full of bees. I find my bees are much more -likely to attack strangers who come to see them, than members of the -family. - - - To Subdue the Anger of Bees. - -I have tested every means recommended for subduing the anger of bees, -and have found tobacco smoke the thing, when rightly applied. - -Have a tin-worker make you a tin tube, one inch in diameter, six inches -long, and fit stoppers of soft wood closely in each end, two and three -inches long respectively, with a hole through each, one-fourth inch -in diameter. Fit one end of the longer stopper to hold in the mouth. -Before placing the shorter piece in the tube, cover the inside end with -wire cloth, bent a little convex, to prevent the ashes and tobacco -filling the quarter-inch orifice. Taper the outer end of the short -piece nearly to a point. Remove the mouth-piece, and fill the tube -nearly full of tobacco (cigars are best, for they burn freely.) Dip -with live embers, replace the mouth-piece and blow the smoke from the -pointed end. - -With this instrument smoke may be forced among the bees in any part -of the hive or boxes. _In all operations likely to arouse the anger -of the bees_, as taking off and putting on boxes, lifting out comb -frames, putting on and taking off feeder, removing the honey board, -examining the rearing boxes in queen raising, etc., smoke the hive -well. In-short, use smoke _freely_ when about to perform any operation -upon the bees. Before touching the hive give the bees two or three -smart puffs at each entrance of the hive; then commence your operations -immediately. If the honey board is over the brood section, and your -operations are to be performed in that part of the hive, raise the -board just enough to puff in the smoke, but not enough for the bees to -come out. Give them the smoke here freely for about one minute, before -you remove the board. They will show their submission by a loud humming -throughout the hive. When they set up this humming noise is the time -to proceed with your work. Remove the honey board entirely, keeping -the smoker at hand ready for use, and giving them a puff of smoke -occasionally _to keep them under submission_. - -It is best for the inexperienced bee raiser to protect the hands and -face in all operations, at least until he feels perfect confidence in -his ability to avoid irritating the bees sufficiently to cause them -to sting. To protect the hands, wear thick woolen mittens, with very -long wrists, so they will come up over the dress or coat sleeve, thus -protecting the hands and wrists completely from stings. To protect the -face and neck, get coarse black lace, one-half yard wide and a yard and -a quarter in length. Take three-fourths of this piece for the front -breadth, and the balance for the back breadth. Seam together at the -selvedges, and gather the upper edge on an elastic cord so as to fit -closely, and draw around the crown of the hat When putting on the hat -ready for use, leave the longer part in front, to button beneath the -coat or vest of a gentleman or the sack of a lady. At the back the lace -tucks beneath the collar. Thus protected, we are perfectly safe from -stings, and can see as well, and perform all operations nearly as well, -as when uncovered. - -The best antidote for stings is the application of water in which -salt has been dissolved--a heaping teaspoonful of salt to a teacupful -of water. Bathe the affected part freely, and in severe cases take -a swallow of the salt and water into the stomach. Avoid rubbing or -irritating the stung part. Be sure to extract the sting immediately, as -the longer it remains the more serious will be the consequences. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - THE BEE MOTH. - - -IN some localities the bee moth is said to be very destructive, yet I -regard the depredations of this insect as much less to be feared than -some bee-keepers suppose. The bee moth is the agency provided by nature -for returning back to the earth the contents of any hive when left by -the bees, in the same manner that the flesh fly is the means provided -for returning to the earth the carcase of any animal. - -I do not believe that a strong, healthy stock of bees was ever attacked -and destroyed by the bee moth. The stock must from some cause become -reduced in numbers, so there are not bees enough to cover all the comb, -before the moth will make an attack. But when the comb is unprotected, -the moth follows the instinct of its nature, and deposits her eggs in -it. The bees from some cause keep decreasing, and the moth continues -depositing her eggs in the vacated comb, until the entire comb of the -hive is a complete mass of vile worms, the progeny of the bee moth. - -About this time the bee keeper notices for the first time, (for, if he -is keeping bees on the old plan, he lets them take their own course, -believing if he meddles with them, they will "run out,") that something -is wrong with that hive. So he examines them, and finds the combs a -mass of webs, with hundreds of moth millers among the combs, and the -combs themselves filled with vile worms. "Ah!" he says, "the bee moth -has destroyed that swarm of bees;" when in fact the bee moth had no -more to do with bringing about the loss than the maggots, found in the -carcase of a nice lamb destroyed by dogs, had to do with destroying the -life of the animal. "Oh," says some wise bee keeper, "I know better -than that, for I have seen the bee moth flying about my hives and -trying to get in." Very well; I have seen the flesh fly circling about -live animals, but think you there was any danger from them, as long as -the animal was in health? Not a bit. Neither is there any danger from -the bee moth, if you keep your stocks of bees _strong and healthy_. -But if you have weak or diseased stock, or have honey in boxes in warm -weather _unprotected by the bees_, look out for the bee moth. - -Fumigate with sulphur all combs taken from hives in warm weather; -immediately after which, seal up closely in well-made hives or boxes, -to prevent access by the moth miller. All combs taken out _late in the -fall_, and kept through the winter in a place where they will be liable -to freeze, may be sealed up so the moth cannot gain access to them, -and the contents will keep safely through the next summer. Freezing -destroys the vitality of the moth eggs. Fumigating with sulphur, as -directed in "Care of Box Honey in Warm Weather," will destroy the _moth -worms_, and prevent damage to the combs, if they receive attention -within a few days after the eggs are hatched; but if the worms are -suffered to remain for any considerable length of time, the combs -will be badly damaged, if not entirely ruined. In protecting honey or -empty comb from the bee moth in warm weather, every bee keeper should -recollect that eternal vigilance is the price of success! With the -Controllable Hive and new system of bee management, the true condition -of stocks is known at all times. The stocks are very populous in July -and August, which is the time the bee moth is most numerous about the -hives. I never had a stock damaged by the bee moth since I adopted my -present system of bee management. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - ROBBING. - - -LOSS of stocks by robbing shows carelessness, or a lack of knowledge -as to the proper care of bees. Not one strong, healthy stock of bees -in a thousand will be robbed, if proper precaution is taken. During a -copious yield of honey there is very little danger of robbing. When -there is a slack in the yield, the bees will search about for plunder, -and if a weak stock is found, they will be very likely to attack it. - -It is the duty of every intelligent bee-keeper to know the exact -condition of his stocks at all times, and if from any cause he has a -weak stock, be sure to ascertain the cause of their weakness, and if -they are healthy stocks, contract the entrances, in accordance with the -number of bees to pass. But if they are found to be diseased, remove -them. The bee, like the human race, is much better able to defend -itself against the attacks of an enemy when there is but one avenue of -approach, than if there are several. - -No refuse honey should be placed in the open air, accessible to all -the bees alike, as this would be very likely to create a desire for -plunder, and incite robbing. - -Never, when a stock is being robbed, change it from one stand to -another a few rods distant, to prevent robbing; for this is a very -great injury to the stock, as all the bees that have marked the -location (at the season when robbing will most likely occur,) will -return to the old stand, and be lost. The best remedy, or rather -preventative against robbing, is to contract the entrances to the -hive. After bees have once commenced robbing, and have been successful -in capturing and plundering one stock, they will, as soon as they -have secured the honey from that one, attack some other with great -impetuosity. Success in plundering renders them very courageous; but if -you have contracted the entrances as directed, they will be very likely -to meet their match, and learn a good lesson. A little punishment is -necessary to teach them their proper place. - -I knew one of these old wise-heads--such a one as spoken of in the -chapter on "Swarming and Hiving"--to use his familiar logic: "What he -didn't know about bees wasn't worth knowing. He didn't want any book -larnin' to know how to keep bees; he had allers kept 'em, and his -father before him." Well, this Mr. Wiseman found, or thought he had -found, that his neighbor's bees were robbing his stocks. "Zounds!" says -he, "I'll fix 'em!" So he goes early in the morning, before the bees -are flying, and confines his stock, which he thought was being robbed, -by nailing a piece of board closely over each entrance to the hive, so -no bees could pass in or out. About sunrise; or a little later, the -robber bees begin to collect on the front of his hive, seeking to gain -access. He waits until a quart or more have collected, and then he -takes two or three quarts of boiling water, and dashes it upon them. -This he continues through that day, and the next, at intervals, as -often as there are any bees collected on the front of his hive. During -this time he has killed more than _a half bushel of bees_. The third -day he opens his hive, but to his great surprise, _no bees appear_, and -on examination he finds the bees all dead. They had _suffocated_. Want -of air, and the boiling water upon the hive, had destroyed them. And to -crown all, and make his loss still more severe, he found it was his -own bees that were engaged in plundering his stock, and his neighbor's -bees had nothing to do with it. The vast number of bees slaughtered -with the hot water, so reduced in numbers several of his stocks, that -they never recovered, but fell prey to the moth miller that season. -And that was the way he "fixed 'em." There are so many whims and false -notions about bees, that great care should be exercised in adopting -plans recommended by inexperienced bee keepers, or that class who claim -to know everything about bees, yet by their practice show that they -know very little. - -There is one other plan, aside from contracting the entrance, which -will prove successful, but which is a little more trouble to apply. If -you find a stock is being robbed, look them over, and be sure that they -have a fertile, healthy queen. If the queen is found to be all right, -but with few bees, take from this hive two comb frames filled with -comb, _with no eggs or brood_, and go to a populous stock, and exchange -these two combs for two others filled with brood. Select such as have -most of the brood sealed over, as you want that which will hatch the -quickest. Put these two combs in the hive that is being robbed, fasten -up the stock by putting wire cloth over the entrances, giving them air -yet preventing the passage of bees.[7] - -[Footnote 7: It is well to confine the bees when a large number of -robbers are inside--a larger number if possible than the swarm itself, -for, being confined a few days, they will make that hive their home, -and aid in defending its stores against other robbers with as much -energy as the bees of the original swarm.] - -When you put in the two frames with brood, if you find but little -honey in the hive--not enough to last the bees a month or more--put in -one frame containing honey. Put on the feeder and carry the hive to -a dark and quiet room, and fill the feeder with _pure, soft water_. -Let the bees remain in this room four days; then about one hour before -sunset, set them on the old stand, giving them their liberty, with the -entrances to the hive contracted--the lower entrance closed entirely, -and the upper one half closed. Intelligent bee keepers will readily -understand why this plan should prove a success:--First, the bees -that hatch from the brood comb given the weak stock, will be a great -encouragement to the few bees in the hive; and in a _very few days_ -they will aid in defending the hive against the attacks of robbers. -Again--removing the hive from the stand seems to disorganize the -robbers, for after they have visited the stand for several days, and -find no plunder, they will give up the search in that direction. - -Before taking the trouble to remove a hive as here directed, care -should be taken to be _certain_ that the bees are being robbed. You -can be sure whether it is your own bees or others that are robbing, by -sprinkling them with flour as they come from the hive which you suspect -is being robbed, and watching your other hives, to see if those you -have marked enter them, being very careful that you are not deceived by -the dust from some species of blossoms, which adheres to the body of -the bee, and might be mistaken for the flour. - -Bees when plundering a stock will often keep at their work until dark, -some of them being unable to find their hive by reason of the darkness. -Honest workers are not found abroad at that time, and, by the way, this -is a very good test of robbing. In concluding this chapter, I advise -again: _Know the condition of your stocks at all times._ If any have -too few bees, contract the entrances in accordance with that number of -bees to pass. Preventative is much better than cure in this case. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - PROFITS OF BEE KEEPING. - - -TWENTY-FIVE years ago, and even at the present time, by the ordinary -methods of bee keeping, if a profit of five dollars from one hive of -bees in one season was gained it was considered "good luck." You know -there is no system in the ordinary methods of bee keeping. It is either -"good luck" or "bad luck;"--all "luck" and "chance," anyway. - -In one year they get five dollars profit from a stock of bees; the next -honey season they get nothing, and the bees all die in the winter; or -perhaps they will survive that winter, and the next season swarm, and -fly away to the woods; or perhaps refuse to swarm, and remain idly -clustered on the front of the hive throughout the entire honey season, -and die from want of food before the winter is half gone. - -Bee keeping by the ordinary methods is a very precarious and uncertain -occupation. The profits are small at best, and losses large and -frequent. - -With my Controllable Hive and common sense system of bee management -(as described in this work,) founded on correct and scientific -principles, bee keeping is reduced to a science. There is no "luck," -no "guess-work," no "chance" about it. There can be no loss in bee -keeping without a cause; there can be no gain without a _full and -correct_ understanding of the natural habits and requirements of bees. -A _correct knowledge_ of the subject insures success. - -I will now present a few statements, exhibiting the practical results -which follow the use of my Controllable Hive and new system of bee -management, and showing the great contrast in profits and general -success in the care of bees. - -In the season of 1870, one of my hives of native bees yielded two -hundred and fifty-three pounds of surplus honey, in glass boxes, from -the 20th of May to the 1st of July. In 1875 _one hive yielded three -hundred and eighty pounds of surplus honey in glass boxes during the -season_. This was the largest yield I ever had, and shows what is -possible by liberal feeding with a thrifty stock of bees, giving them -every facility, with a view of securing the largest possible amount of -surplus box honey. In this case, I selected, in early spring, the very -best stock I could find, and pushed it as hard as possible throughout -the entire spring, summer and early fall. My success exceeded even my -most sanguine expectations. As it may serve to aid others in producing -large yields of honey, I will describe minutely the method pursued to -secure this large and extraordinary yield. - -Very early in the spring I selected the most populous stock in my -possession. It was ruled by a young and exceedingly prolific Hybrid -queen, a mixture of Italian and Native blood. I commenced early in -the spring to feed this stock lightly but _regularly_, every day at -evening. I fed about one-half pound of feed per day, until a few days -before the flowers were in bloom profusely! This was done to encourage -breeding. Very early in the spring they were fed com and rye meal, as -directed in this work. - -For a few days before the flowers were blooming profusely, I fed -liberally--in fact, gave them all I could possibly induce them to take -up; the object being to get the store comb in the body of the hive, -not occupied with brood, completely filled with honey. The glass boxes, -twenty-six in number (with the Feeder,) each holding about four and -one-half pounds of honey, were arranged in connection with the hive -(sides and top,) several weeks prior to the appearance of the flowers, -that the bees might become accustomed to them, and the more readily -enter them, and commence work. When I ceased feeding (which was on the -appearance of the flowers yielding a good supply of honey,) the boxes -were filled with bees, and comb-building had commenced. The hive was at -this time filled to overflowing with bees, and the combs had brood in -all stages of growth, from the egg to the perfect bee. I had taken the -precaution to cut out nearly all the drone comb, and fit in its place -worker comb, so I had but very few drones to consume the honey. I had -also arranged so as to have no increase by swarming, but to have all -the bees employed storing surplus honey in the boxes throughout the -season. - -As fast as the boxes were filled, they were removed, and empty ones -substituted in their place. I never saw bees work with such determined -industry, early and late, and in all kinds of weather. When honey -failed at the end of the season, there was a set of boxes on the hive -partially filled. I immediately gave the bees feed until these too were -finished. I found, on weighing the product of this hive in the fall, -that they had given me a fraction over three hundred and eighty pounds -of surplus honey in boxes. This honey I sold at thirty-five cents a -pound, a little over one hundred and thirty-three dollars, for surplus -honey sold from this one stock. Reader, go thou and do likewise. - -I had one stock of bees which occupied the same stand, winter and -summer, for six years, and during that time they swarmed but once, and -from it I sold every year over fifty dollars' worth of surplus honey -in glass boxes. A neighbor several times offered me fifty dollars for -this stock, early in the spring before the bees commenced their labors. - -In 1874 I purchased a swarm of bees in an old box hive. They had not -paid their owner a dollar in profit for years. Some seasons they would -swarm and fly away to the woods; in other seasons they would remain -clustered on the front of the hive through the entire season, refusing -to swarm, or enter the two small boxes covered with a cap on top of the -hive. I transferred the bees from this hive to the Controllable Hive, -and they gave me a profit of over forty dollars the first year. - -I sold my honey in 1874 for from thirty-three to thirty-five dollars -per hundred gross weight--that is, no tare deducted for weight of the -box. The boxes weigh each about one pound, empty, and when well filled -with honey about four and one-half pounds, gross. - -The present season (1880.) one stock in a Controllable Hive, in -the month of June, without being fed or having extra care, yielded -seventy-two pounds of surplus honey in glass boxes. Another, treated -in the same manner, yielded over eighty pounds surplus, in the same -time. Another new swarm, since the first week in June, filled the brood -frames with honey, and produced thirty-eight pounds of surplus in glass -boxes, (filling eight boxes as full as they could be crowded,) and gave -me a large swarm the last week in June. - -When box honey brings from thirty-three to thirty-five cents a pound, -_gross weight_, my usual yearly average is a little over fifty dollars -clean profit from the sale of box honey, from each stock of bees I -keep. I intend to keep about twelve stocks each season. I sometimes -have a much greater number; yet it is my purpose to keep only this -number each season, for the production of surplus honey, swarms, etc. -My average yield of surplus box honey is about two hundred pounds -(perhaps a trifle less) from each hive of bees that I keep, during each -season, _when swarming is prevented and each stock liberally fed_. - -I will here give the testimony of a few of the many, who have adopted -the plan of bee management recommended in this work. I should give -the name and post-office address of each, were it not for the fact -that they would receive so many letters of inquiry, as to make it very -disagreeable to them. _I have the original and complete letters in my -possession, and such letters I am prepared to show at any time._ My -object in presenting this testimony here, is to show that the system of -bee management recommended herein is not only successful with me, but -with all intelligent bee keepers, as well. - -A gentleman from Vermont writes me, under date of September 15, 1879, -as follows: "I take this opportunity of informing you of the experience -I have had with the bee hive received from you. About the 10th of May I -transferred a swarm of bees from a box hive to the Controllable Hive. -I transferred all the brood combs, and about eight or ten pounds of -honey. I fed them until flowers were plenty, which encouraged them to -build rapidly. About the 25th of May I put in surplus boxes on the -sides, which they soon entered, and went to work. The middle of June I -put boxes on top, as the bees showed symptoms of swarming. By the 10th -of July the side boxes were nearly all filled, and the bees were at -work in the top boxes. July 15th I took off sixteen of the twenty side -boxes, well filled and capped, and placed empty ones in their places. -August 5th, I took six of the ten boxes off the top, well filled. Then -the dry weather set in, and the bees came to a stand-still (thinking -the honey season over,) but the basswood revived it for a short time, -enabling them to fill up the boxes pretty full. I obtained in all from -this swarm twenty-eight boxes, weighing one hundred and ten pounds. I -shall have ten hives made this winter for use the coming spring." - -A gentleman writes from New York, under date of April 2d, 1879: "I have -received your hive, which meets my ideas of what a bee hive should be. -It contains all that is required in a bee hive, or in other words it -is just the thing I have been wanting. I have been using the Quinby -hive, so called, but I am now going to keep bees in earnest on your -plan. I have the fullest confidence of success with your hive and plan -of management. Your plan for wintering is a good one, on scientific -principles, and the arrangement for feeding, and surplus honey, can't -be beat." - -A gentleman writes from New Hampshire, under date of April 26th, 1879: -"I have tested your hive, and my bees have done first-rate. I believe -the hive is just what it is represented. One strong reason why I think -so much of your hive is, there were not a dozen bees died in the -hive last winter, while three of my first swarms in other hives all -died--some of them with fifty pounds of honey in the hive. I have lost -some winters as many as fifteen or twenty swarms. I have now tested -your hive to my satisfaction, and I do not believe bees will die in it, -if your instructions for wintering are carried out. I think your hive -is what every bee keeper should have to make a success of bee keeping." - -A gentleman writes from Missouri, under date of May 1st, 1879: "Your -bee hive I like very much. I put in the swarm last season. They did -much better than any swarm I had in the American hive. I took away -more surplus honey than from any of the others. I can recommend the -Controllable Hive to all bee keepers. This spring I have put up -fourteen more Controllable Hives, and shall use no other hive in -future." - -A lady bought a swarm of Italian bees of me in 1874, and from that one -stock she increased to over twenty the third season, besides obtaining -over one hundred pounds of nice surplus honey from the swarm I sent -her in the first season. - -Here I desire to be clearly understood. I do not wish to hold out -inducements which will never be realized, for the purpose of causing -any one to commence bee keeping with unreasonable expectations of -profit. There is labor and care required to bring success in any -enterprise; and usually the greater the care and labor bestowed on any -business, the greater the reward in profits. Bees give ample return for -each little care and attention bestowed upon them; and if neglected and -permitted to go uncared for, there is corresponding loss. I believe -that bee keeping on correct and scientific principles should be -encouraged, until bees enough are kept to collect the honey now allowed -to go to waste, and which, if collected, would add millions of dollars -to the wealth of the country. - -The statements of large yields of honey here presented, show what it -is possible to do; yet no reasonable person would commence bee keeping -with the expectation of realizing, on each of a dozen or more stocks -kept, the large yields above specified. Some stocks will pay a much -greater profit than others. And it is only under the most favorable -circumstances, with our very best stocks, that we secure the results -here named, such as three hundred and eighty pounds of box honey from -one stock in a season This serves to illustrate what may be derived -(but not what we may reasonably expect) from each stock, where a dozen -or more stocks are kept. Two hundred pounds from each stock on the -average is about right. And this last is only secured with good care -and attention, perseverance and labor, judiciously applied to the work. - -The question is often asked: "How many stocks of bees can be kept in -one place on your plan?" This depends on the number of honey-yielding -plants and flowers. Some localities furnish a much greater number than -others. In some localities, fifty stocks would do well, and pay yearly -a handsome profit; in others, it would not be profitable to keep half -as many. I am in a place said to be very unfavorable to bee keeping. I -find twelve stocks about the right number for me to maintain. Bees will -go seven miles or more to collect honey, but the shorter the distance, -the more honey will be collected, in a season; consequently the greater -profit will follow. - -It can only be learned by practical test how many stocks of bees may be -profitably kept in any locality. Commence with a few, and increase the -number moderately, until you find you have as many as you wish to keep, -or as many as the locality will support, with good profit, when managed -judiciously. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - CHANGING OLD QUEENS FOR YOUNG ONES. - - -ON my plan of bee management, if a stock does not change its queen -for three years in succession, the fourth season the old queen should -be taken away, if she shows the least sign of failing, and a young, -laying queen substituted in her place It often happens, if the queen -in a stock dies or becomes seriously injured, that the bees will, of -their own accord, rear another to take her place. But if her failure -has been gradual, the bees may not have the means to do so, when she -at last fails entirely, for the reason that she may cease laying, for -several days or weeks previous to her death, in which case it would -be impossible for the bees, without assistance, to rear another queen -to take her place. They must have an egg not over five days old, from -which to rear a queen. The great necessity of close observation, in -order to keep each stock always supplied with a healthy, prolific -queen, cannot be impressed too strongly on the mind of every bee -keeper. Be sure not to neglect this very important point in successful -and profitable bee keeping. - -But very few seem to know the average duration of life of the honey -bee. The average term of life of the worker is only a few months--not -more than from two to four--a great many do not live out half that -time. So it will be seen that it is only by keeping healthy and -prolific queens in each stock, that we can have populous stocks, such -as will pay a good profit. - -In my experiments I have in several instances taken from a vigorous and -very populous stock their queen, and at the same time deprived them -of the means of rearing another. This was done in the honey season. -In such cases the bees kept on with their labor, though with visible -reluctance and an appearance of discouragement, the number of bees -decreasing very rapidly, and in from two to three months nearly all had -disappeared, not more than two or three hundred remaining, where there -had been from thirty thousand to fifty thousand all in a prosperous -condition. - -Other instances have come under my observation, clearly showing that -the life of the worker honey bee is only of few months duration. One -case in fact will show: I removed the native queen from a very strong -stock of native or black bees, in the honey season, and introduced an -Italian queen, in order to change the stock from native to Italian. The -reader will readily understand that every egg deposited by the Italian -queen, after her introduction, will produce the Italian variety, the -workers of which are entirely distinct in color from the natives. In -a few days after the introduction of the Italian queen I found the -natives were disappearing, and soon after the Italians began to appear. -The change was very rapid. In about two months not a native or black -bee could be found about the hive--all were Italians. The natives had -gradually decreased, until all had disappeared, showing conclusively -that they had died in the same ratio that they would have passed away -from a stock naturally. During the winter season, as the bee is in a -dormant state for the greater part of the time, they are given a longer -lease of life. - -When it is discovered that a stock has a barren queen or has lost -its queen, or from any cause she has ceased to be prolific (and in -consequence the bees are dwindling away,) take means immediately to -substitute a prolific and healthy queen in her place, and at the -same time re-enforce the stock, by taking one or more frames filled -with hatching brood from a populous stock, and exchanging for those -destitute of brood. In this manner the bees will be increased so as -to insure safety for a few days, after which the stock, having been -furnished with a prolific, healthy queen, will regain their former -prosperity and vigor. - -The queen being the mother of the entire swarm, and consequently all -increase being dependent on her, every intelligent bee keeper will -readily understand that in order to succeed, he must be sure that each -stock has a prolific queen. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - REARING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS. - - -IN commencing to rear queens, you will first want some small rearing -boxes, or miniature hives, about four and one-half inches wide, by -eight inches long, and five inches deep, inside measurement. Use inch -board for the hives. Make for each hive three movable comb frames,[8] -suspended the same as in the brood section of the Controllable Hive. -Make the under side of the top bar, flat, instead of triangular, as -in the large comb frames. Take a piece of old comb, and cut to fill -each one of these small frames. Take from a pint to a quart of bees -from a populous stock (in the height of the breeding season this will -do no harm) without the queen-. Confine these bees in a light box, in -the top of which there is an inch hole, closed, to confine them to the -box, for if not confined they would return to the old stock, as the -queen is not with them. Having secured your bees in the box, go to a -stock, and lift out a comb containing eggs, just deposited. They may be -known by their appearance. They are but a tiny speck at the bottom of -the cell, about one-sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, -and perfectly white in color. They remain in this form from two to -three days, at the end of which time they change to the form of a grub -or maggot. After this change it is a risk to depend on them for queen -raising, so be sure to secure for your purpose eggs. Cut from the brood -comb a piece about two inches long and one-half inch wide, using a very -sharp, thin knife, so not to mutilate the comb. Cut out a piece from -the center comb of the miniature hive, and fit in its place the piece -containing the eggs. The middle of a warm day is the best time to do -this work. It is best to have one of the comb frames of the miniature -hive filled with honey, to furnish food for the bees for a few days. - -[Footnote 8: This frame is shown in the engraving representing the -different kinds of cells, in Chapter I.] - -As soon as you have fitted the piece containing the eggs in its place -in the miniature hive, put on a close-fitting cover. Do not nail it, -as you will want to look at it every few days. Close the entrances to -the miniature hive, so no bees can escape. Now open the hole in the top -of the box in which the bees are confined, and set the miniature hive -containing the eggs over it quickly, allowing no bees to escape. The -bees will then pass from the box up into the miniature hive, cluster -on the comb containing the eggs, and immediately commence the rearing -of queens from the eggs thus furnished them. Keep the bees confined to -the miniature hive for about thirty-six hours. Give them their liberty -at first about one hour before sunset. If you do not confine them for -the time stated, they will return to the hive from which you took them, -but if so confined, they will forget their old home, and adhere to the -miniature hive, the same as an ordinary swarm hived in the usual way. -They will rear queens from the eggs given them by constructing queen -cells, so arranged as to take in one of the eggs in the piece of comb -furnished them, often constructing three or more cells. In about six -days, open the miniature hive, and you will find these cells nearly -or quite finished. Occasionally a case occurs where they do not rear -queens when thus furnished with the means, but such cases are rare. -If you find each one made separate, you can, if you choose, with a -sharp, thin knife cut out all the cells but one, and give them to -other rearing boxes not supplied with eggs, or which have failed to -rear queens from the eggs furnished them. If you leave all the cells -in the miniature hive as constructed, the first queen that hatches -will destroy all the others. She will visit each cell, gnaw an opening -in the side, curve her abdomen and insert her sting into the opening, -and sting the rival queen to death while yet in her cradle. The worker -bees will then enlarge the opening, and drag out the lifeless body. The -victorious queen now reigns over the little colony, the same as in a -large and natural swarm. - -In from three to five days after hatching, if the weather is fine, -the young queen will leave the miniature hive, and take a flight in -the open air, to meet the drone for the purpose of fecundation. If -successful, she will commence to lay in about two days. She may then be -introduced to a full stock at any time desired. Recollect, it will be -useless to rear queens where there are no drones. - -When stocks are liberally fed early in the season, drones will appear -correspondingly early. And if from a stock well supplied with drones, -you remove the queen, the workers will not destroy the drones in that -hive until they have obtained another fertile laying queen. With this -idea in view, viz:--early and liberal feeding to produce drones early, -and depriving a populous stock (well supplied with drones) of its queen -the last of the season, we can have drones sufficient for our purpose -from early spring until late in the fall. - -I have in several instances, for the purpose of securing drones -very early in the spring, deprived a populous stock, containing a -large number of drones, of its queen, very late in the fall, and -wintered them queenless. In this manner the drones were permitted by -the bees to remain and winter with the swarm. Early in the spring -they were re-enforced with hatching brood from populous stocks, but -were permitted to rear no queens, in order that the drones might be -preserved. As soon as drones appeared in the other stocks, this stock -was furnished with a laying queen, and it was as prosperous as the best. - -By this plan drones may be kept through the winter, if their services -are required very early in the spring, before we can raise them from -the best stocks by judicious feeding, which very rarely can be done. - -The bees for rearing queens are usually obtained from populous hives, -such as will hardly miss a pint or a quart from their numbers, great -care being exercised not to remove the queen. The best time to get -the bees is in the middle of the day. Go to a stock and first find -the queen. Set the comb she is on, to one side. Put your light box -(prepared as before described with a hole in the top) on a sheet near -by, with one edge raised an inch. Take one or more combs from the hive -(being careful not to get the one with the queen,) and shake the bees -from them, down beside the box, which they will readily enter. When you -have bees enough in the box, close it so none can escape. You now have -the bees ready to put in the miniature hive, as before directed. - -I think I have given such instruction as will enable any one, after a -little practice, to rear queens successfully.[9] I will follow it with -such information as will insure success in introducing queens into full -stocks of bees. - -[Footnote 9: By taking brood for rearing queens only from such stocks -as exhibit the greatest industry, mildness of disposition, vigor in -withstanding the cold, etc., I find lam able to greatly improve the -desirable qualities of my bees from year to year. This systematic -course of treatment has produced swarms possessing very valuable -characteristics. It is surprising to note the difference in profits and -ease of management, between bees that have always been left to take -their own course, and such as have had their most desirable traits -cultivated and improved to the greatest possible extent for a term of -years. The difference is almost as marked as between the savage in his -native wilds, and the most intelligent and highly educated member of -society.] - -Here let me caution bee keepers never to attempt to introduce a queen -into a full stock of bees, until she has begun to lay. A young queen, -not fecundated, will be destroyed in nine cases out of ten, in spite -of every precaution. Before introducing a queen, the old queen in the -stock, if any exists, must be taken away. Make your search for her in -the middle of the day, as at that time most of the workers are away. -Use but very little smoke, and that only at the entrance, as the bees -should remain spread over the combs as evenly as possible. If you use -much smoke they will rush to the bottom and the corners of the hive, -and it is very likely the queen might seek a hiding-place with the -others, where you could not find her. If not disturbed, the queen will -be found in the comb among the bees. When ready to proceed, having -smoked them lightly at the entrances (a puff at each entrance is -sufficient,) lift out the comb carefully, avoiding any jar, and look -them over for the queen. It is said the Italian queens are more readily -found than the natives, but I could never see any difference. Hold the -frame up in front of your face, so as to have a good view, and look -each comb over carefully till you find the queen. When found, remove -her. Always return the combs so they will occupy the same position as -before. - -As soon as the queen is removed, and the bees are aware of their loss, -they will usually commence to rear another queen from the worker eggs -to take her place. To make a sure thing of it, they often start to -produce a half-dozen or more. - -In six days after removing the queen, smoke the bees well, to get the -combs as clear of them as possible. Do this in the middle of the -day. When you have driven the most of the bees from the comb to the -bottom and into the corners of the hives, lift out the combs, and look -sharply for queen cells, (success depends on thorough work here.) With -a sharp knife cut out and destroy every such cell that is finished -or commenced. Don't leave any part of a queen cell in the hive, for -the bees will not accept a strange queen if they have the means of -raising one of their own. Having destroyed every queen cell, finished -or unfinished, return the combs to the hive; but before putting the -honey board over the brood section, cut a hole in it a little smaller -than the top of a tumbler. Cover this hole with a light piece of board, -simply laid on, (not nailed, for you will need to remove it without -jar.) Then put the honey board in its place over the brood section. - -Let the hive remain until near sunset, for the bees to get quiet, and -to learn that they are without a queen and without the means of rearing -another. Just before sunset, take the queen you propose to introduce, -and with her a score or more of workers, and put them in a tumbler -with a piece of wire cloth over the top to keep them in. (To get her -from the miniature hive, where she was reared, to the tumbler, take it -to a close room, before a window, so if she takes wing she may alight -there.) Go to the hive into which she is to be introduced, and remove -the cap, avoiding any jar that may irritate the bees. Take off the -board over the hole in the honey board, and turn the tumbler containing -the queen bottom up over it, keeping the wire cloth between the queen -in the tumbler and the bees in the hive. Replace the cap to the hive, -and let the queen and her attendant bees remain in the tumbler, in -communication with the bees in the hive through the wire cloth, until -the next day, near sunset. Then take a teaspoonful of honey, go to the -hive, and remove the cap, this time with the greatest possible care, as -the slightest jar will endanger success. Raise the tumbler carefully -from off the queen, and with the honey smear her completely over, then -turn the wire cloth over carefully, and let the queen and her attendant -bees down through the hole in the honey board, among the bees of the -hive. Replace the cap as quietly as possible, and the work is done. In -about one week examine the combs of this hive for eggs, and if they are -found, you can consider your work crowned with success. If no eggs are -discovered, you must go over the ground again. But be sure there are no -eggs in the combs before you repeat the work. - -This plan of introducing queens is the most successful of any I have -ever tested. It rarely fails. When a laying queen is removed from one -of the miniature hives, the bees will usually rear queens from the eggs -left when the queen is removed. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - SOURCES OF HONEY. - - -THE sources from which bees collect honey are various and almost -innumerable. Almost every flower, tree, plant, shrub and vine, in -field, forest, pasture and garden yield honey to some extent. White -clover, is, perhaps, the greatest source of honey in the New England -and Middle States, it being found to a greater or less extent in almost -every field and pasture. South and west there is, in many localities, a -profusion of wild flowers, producing considerable quantities of honey. -In some sections buckwheat affords a rich harvest. Basswood yields a -very nice quality of honey, and in sections where it abounds, great -quantities are collected from it. Fruit blossoms--apple, pear, peach, -and all the different varieties of plums, cherries, etc., are very -important sources of honey. - -Pollen is the first material gathered by the bees in early spring. -Several varieties of alder, willow, red maple, etc., produce pollen -in great abundance. Raspberry, blackberry, catnip, dandelion, etc., -all contribute largely of honey in their season. Corn, and most kinds -of grain, furnish pollen in abundance late in the season. Mustard and -sweet clover are great favorites with the busy bee, yielding the most -beautiful honey, clear as crystal and white as snow. The sugar maple -produces honey of excellent quality, and where forests of this tree -abound, large quantities of honey are stored, while it is in blossom -in early spring.[10] Locust, whitewood, mignonette, golden rod, sumach, -etc., all produce honey. When we take into consideration the fact that -the bee will go seven miles or more to collect his sweets, it is easy -to understand that a certain number of swarms will succeed in almost -any locality, even without feeding. To make this still more clear, -we have only to take into account the vast number of honey yielding -flowers, trees, plants, shrubs, etc., within a circle of fourteen miles -in diameter, the hives occupying the center, and the bees flying to -collect honey seven miles in every direction from the hive. Those who -have not tested the matter, will be likely to dispute the statement, -that a bee will go seven miles to gather honey. But on this point -I am able to offer ample proof, to establish, beyond a reasonable -doubt, the fact that the Italian bee will go that distance. The proof -I offer is this: The first Italian bees brought into the New England -States, I had the honor of receiving. The Italian bees being entirely -distinct from the native or black bees in color and size, I determined -to avail myself of the opportunity offered to satisfy myself on the -long-disputed question--"How far a bee will go to collect honey." I -therefore made close and repeated examinations, at different times -during the honey season, and it was no uncommon occurrence, to find -the Italian workers seven miles from their hives. As there were no -Italian bees except mine within hundreds of miles, I considered this -positive proof that that variety will travel seven miles from its hive -in its search for honey-producing flowers. As the native or black bee -is, to some extent, found in all parts of the country, it is impossible -to prove conclusively the distance they will go from the hive; yet my -observations give very strong evidence that they journey five miles or -more after honey. - -[Footnote 10: Climate and soil are so variable, it is impossible to -give the sources of honey so as to apply minutely to every locality. I -shall strive to designate the principal sources. The bee keeper will -very soon learn from experience and observation, what are the principal -sources of honey in that particular locality. Many different flowers, -trees and shrubs are found in one section yielding honey profusely -which do not exist in another.] - -When the distance a bee will go for honey is so well established, and -having found from repeated tests that the flowers, when yielding honey, -may be visited many times each day by the bee, and yield at each visit -a bountiful supply, we can form some idea of the vast amount of honey -now permitted to go to waste, which might be collected by bees and -stored in nice boxes, and thus add wealth and enjoyment to the human -family. - -The bee keeper sometimes finds his bees idle, when the flowers are in -bloom in profusion, the sun shining brightly, and, to the superficial -observer, everything indicating honey in abundance. And yet the bees -are dormant, and scarcely a one flying about the hives, notwithstanding -the hives and boxes are full of them. The truth of the matter is, there -is no honey in the flowers, although they are in full bloom. The air -is dry and clear. Suddenly there is a change, the atmosphere becomes -moist and charged with electricity, with occasionally light showers. -Immediately all is activity about the hives. The greatest show of -industry is manifested; scores of workers, and in some cases a hundred, -coming into each hive every minute, loaded with honey, many of them so -heavily weighted that they fall to the ground before they reach the -hive, where they rest a moment, and then try again, usually succeeding -in entering with their load. I have seen a change, as here described, -brought about in a half-hour's time in the middle of the day, viz: The -bees pass from an idle, almost entirely dormant state, to the greatest -activity and industry. And all because a change in the atmosphere had -caused the flowers to secrete honey. The question arises. How did the -bees know at that particular hour there was a change, and that the -flowers, which a few minutes before were destitute of honey, were now -bountifully supplied? I answer, the bee was aware of the change almost -the moment it took place. The bee is very sensitive to all atmospheric -changes. A case in point will show this: The bees are collecting honey -abroad in the fields. The day is warm and balmy. Suddenly there is -the appearance of a shower, and distant thunder is heard. Immediately -the bees came rushing in from the fields, in clouds. They cover the -entire front of their hives, in their eagerness to gain a shelter from -the approaching rain. Again, if the morning is cloudy and dark, with -every appearance of rain, and you find the bees leaving their hives -for the fields, you may be quite certain that rain is not near, and -may expect soon to see the sun break forth and the clouds disperse. -If, on the other hand there is an appearance of rain, and the bees are -quiet in their hives, it is quite sure to rain in a very short time. -How wonderful are the workings of nature. How great the sagacity of the -little, busy bee. Who dares say that this wonderful little insect does -not possess the power of reasons? But I am digressing from the subject. - -Bees, in their journeys to collect honey, seldom visit more than one -species of flower, plant or shrub, at one excursion; and this is a wise -provision of nature, for were it otherwise, and any and all species -visited promiscuously, the vegetable world would be thrown into chaos, -by the fertilizing dust of one species being imparted to another, -through the medium of the bee. - -Pollen as fast as collected is deposited in little basket-like cavities -on the inside of the bee's posterior legs. It is packed in little -pellets, varying in size from that of a pin's head to a small pea. In -color it is usually yellow, but sometimes green or red. Hundreds of -bees may be seen entering the hives with pollen at almost any time in -the honey season, particularly in the morning before the dew is off -the grass. It is easier for the bees to collect it at this time, as -the moisture causes it the more readily to adhere to the cavities of -the legs. Honey when collected is deposited in the stomach of the bee, -in which it is borne to the hive, and there deposited in cells in the -comb. The bee has the power of raising this honey from its stomach, in -the same manner that all ruminating animals raise the cud. - -Some have contended that bees cause an injury to all kinds of fruit, -such as apples, peaches, plums, etc., by taking away the substance and -sweetness, in the form of honey, which otherwise would be absorbed, and -eaten with the fruit. This is a great mistake. The provisions of nature -are wise in this respect as in all others. There is the strongest -evidence to prove that honey, once secreted in the cups of the tiny -blossoms, never returns to the flower or fruit, but evaporates and -passes into the air. Who, in passing an apple or peach orchard in full -bloom, has not noticed the delicious fragrance; which is undoubtedly -honey which has evaporated from the myriads of blossoms. It is very -plain to the close observer that nature has placed in the cups of -flowers this honey, expressly as food for the honey bee, and that it is -in harmony with all her great and wonderful works. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - LOCATION OF HIVES. - - -IN locating your hives, place them on the south side of buildings, or a -close board fence facing south, south-east or south-west. If possible, -locate in the shade of some trees, where they Will be shaded from the -sun from nine o'clock in the forenoon until one in the afternoon, or a -little later. If no trees afford shade, arrange a roof over each hive, -which shall shade the entire hive, and especially the front, in the -summer season. But in spring and fall it is better to let the bees have -the full benefit of the sun's rays, shining directly upon the hive. -Construct a separate stand for each hive, as follows: Cut boards about -three feet long, and joists three by six inches square (two pieces of -the latter two feet long;) nail the ends of the boards to these pieces, -so as to form a stand, when placed on the ground, three feet long, two -feet wide and six inches high. This gives a free circulation of air -beneath the stand. Set your hive on this stand, the rear of the hive -even with the rear of the stand, which leaves the stand projecting a -foot or more in front, making an admirable place for the bees to alight -before entering the hive. Set your stands three feet apart, and make -them perfectly level before placing your hive upon them. - -Place an alighting board in front of each hive. Get a board about -eighteen inches wide and two feet long. Nail on some cleats at each -end, to prevent warping. Rest one edge of this board on the ground, -the other edge on the end of the platform in front of the hive. By -this arrangement many bees will be saved in early spring which would -otherwise be lost. By the old plan of setting the hives two or three -feet high, with no alighting board, and a free draught of wind beneath, -the loss of bees was very great, especially in the early spring -months, on chilly afternoons following a very warm forenoon. The bees, -returning loaded with pollen, are unable to reach a hive placed so -high, and are blown to the earth by the hundreds, and becoming chilled, -die. The death of a few bees is a great loss in early spring, for they -are required in keeping up the animal heat in the hive to forward -breeding. - -The location of bees as here recommended will be found greatly superior -to any other, for other reasons than those mentioned, and which are too -numerous to herein specify. - -Every one who commences bee keeping should ever remember, that bees -always mark the location of their hives. The young bee the first time -it leaves the hive invariably does this. The same is true with all -swarms, in the first flight in early spring, after being dormant in the -hive through the winter months. - -In marking the location, the bee comes from the hive, and at the -entrance rises on the wing. Turning its head toward the hive, it -recedes in circles, backward, at first describing a circle so small -as to be scarcely perceptible, but enlarging as the distance from the -hive is increased. They thus take into view all objects surrounding -the hive, so that they are able to return to their own hives without -difficulty. After one or two excursions begun in this manner, the -bee leaves the hive in a direct line for the fields, without taking -any further precaution whatever, and returns by its knowledge of the -objects in the vicinity of the hives, without difficulty. - -Notwithstanding there might be a hundred hives standing in a line, -with only a few inches space between each, and all of the same color -and appearance, if left to itself no bee would enter the hive of its -neighbor, although there might be hundreds of thousands of the busy -workers, from all the hives, dying promiscuously about in the air. -Each bee knows its own hive perfectly, and if from any accident it -enters its neighbor's house, immediate death is usually the result; -or possibly it may escape, after being roughly handled, and made to -understand that it is trespassing on forbidden ground. - -Some bee keepers, with little knowledge of their occupation, often -remove a hive of bees several rods, in the working season. The result -is, all the bees that had marked the location (and all the old bees -had done this) are lost. They would continue to leave the hive in a -direct line, after its removal, not taking the precaution to mark the -location, as they were unaware of the change, and when they were ready -to return, they would return to the former place. - -Bees may be safely moved a dozen miles or more, at any time, as this -takes them beyond their knowledge of country; but in such cases set -the hives six feet apart at least. If this precaution is not taken and -the hives are set close together, the bees will rush from the hives -on being let out, not knowing the location has been changed, and when -they return, many will enter the wrong hive, and be slaughtered without -mercy. - -Therefore, let stocks be placed, early in the spring, before they have -marked the situation of the stands they are to occupy for the summer, -and not change them after the bees have commenced their labors--at -least change them no less distance than twelve miles. - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - WINTERING BEES. - - -THE subject of wintering bees is of the greatest importance, and one -which is generally very imperfectly understood, if we may judge from -the large number of swarms lost every winter and spring. There are many -methods recommended as "the best" for wintering bees. One will tell -you to keep them cold; another to keep them warm. One will say, put -them in the cellar; another, bury them in the ground; another put them -in the attic. Is it any wonder that the beginner becomes confused and -disgusted at so much conflicting advice? That bees have been wintered -safely by any and all of these old plans I shall not dispute. But I am -certain that neither plan will, alone, prove successful in the majority -of cases. - -By all the methods heretofore recommended, a large number of bees die -from each stock, during the winter; so reducing them in numbers that it -takes nearly the entire summer for them to regain in numbers what they -have lost; while a very large number of stocks are lost entirely. - -It will be readily understood that the greater the number of bees in a -hive in early spring, the more warmth will be generated; consequently -the more rapidly will the brood mature and the bees increase in -numbers. It is of the greatest importance to have strong stocks in -early spring This is one of the strong points of the new system of -management, taught in this book. - -In nearly all the hives now in use, there is no proper ventilation, -consequently the honey in such hives becomes sour, the comb mouldy, -and the bees diseased. It is impossible, in our variable climate, to -winter bees successfully, for any number of years, with any degree of -certainty, in the great majority of the ordinary hives. - -Some, who have met with heavy losses in winter, have taken the ground -that the loss was caused by a poor quality of honey, stored by the bees -in a wet season, or a large yield late in the fall. But this is a great -mistake. Bees will not collect and store honey not suited to their use -as food; they make no mistakes on this point. - -I might discuss in detail all the different methods of wintering bees, -and show the great losses attending each, with causes, etc., but by so -doing I should consume more space than I can give in this work. I shall -therefore confine my remarks to ordinary conditions of bees in winter, -and the requisites to insure uniform success in wintering. - -In the winter bees cluster as closely together as circumstances admit, -and the severity of the cold demands. The more severe the cold, the -closer they cluster together, in order the better to keep up the animal -heat necessary to maintain life. - -By all the old methods, the cluster of bees is divided by the sheets of -comb, which is a great hindrance to successful wintering. In such cases -the bees cannot cluster compactly together, but are spread out between -the different sheets of comb. In the Controllable Hive, and on the plan -of wintering here recommended, the bees in very cold weather cluster -in the space between the wire cloth of the ventilator and the top of -the frames of the brood section. They are here able to keep up the -required amount of animal heat, as they can cluster compactly, without -anything to separate them. - -By the ordinary plan, in sudden turns of very cold weather, the bees -between the outer combs are often frozen to death. "Oh!" says some -one, "that's all humbug; you can't freeze a bee." Certainly you can. -To satisfy yourself of this, after a very cold turn of weather, look -under your box hives, if you have them, or any patent hive having a -loose bottom board to admit of an examination, and see if you do not -find hundreds of bees which have fallen dead from the outside combs. -I have examined hundreds of stocks, and found them as here described. -If you don't believe a bee will freeze, take out a dozen from a hive, -in a severely cold spell of weather in mid-winter, confine them in a -box, and set them out doors, letting them remain only one night. See if -they are not dead beyond resuscitation, the next morning. This notion -that bees will not freeze is a great mistake, and has led to some very -foolish experiments in wintering them. - -A swarm of bees of average size, put in proper condition for winter, -will not freeze; but from this it does not follow that a bee is -proof against the greatest possible degree of cold. When bees are -prepared for winter, as herein directed, they will, as before stated, -cluster compactly together. And as the cold increases the cluster -will contract, in accordance with the increasing of the cold, and -consequently no loss of bees occur. - -Another great cause of loss in winter is in proper ventilation, or -no ventilation at all. Every swarm of bees throws off a considerable -amount of moisture from their bodies. In very cold weather, if the -hive is not properly ventilated, this moisture collects on the combs -at the sides and top of the hives, in the form of frost and ice. In -moderate weather this frost and ice melts, and runs down into the -hive, completing saturating the bees, and then, if a sudden change to -extremely cold weather takes place, all are destroyed by freezing; or -if they chance to survive the winter, the moisture causes the combs -to mould, the honey becomes sour, and thin like water, rendering it -unsuitable food for the bee, and bringing on diseases--dysentery, -bee cholera, foul brood, etc., and in a short time the bees are all -destroyed. Thousands of good swarms are lost every winter by improper -management, and from being kept in hives not suitable for wintering. I -give directions for wintering on my plan, in Controllable Hives, and I -feel confident, if directions are carefully followed, that many stocks -will be saved annually, which otherwise would have perished. - - - How to Winter Bees in Controllable Hives. - -Bees are wintered in Controllable Hives on their summer stands, by my -plan, without loss, by maintaining an even temperature in the brood -section, and disposing of all moisture or perspiration thrown off -by the bees in cold weather. I have never lost a swarm of bees in -Controllable Hives in the winter. I attempt to winter none, except -strong, healthy stocks. I have no mouldy combs, no sour honey. The -combs are kept perfectly dry, and the hives in a healthy condition. I -do not lose a teacupful of bees, on the average, from each of my hives -during the winter. - -To winter in Controllable Hives, prepare as follows: At the -commencement of steady cold weather, which, in the New England States, -is usually near the close of November, put the bees in condition to -winter by entirely closing the upper entrance to the hive, and the -lower one shut up about one-half.[11] Take out the box frames at the -sides of the brood section, and put the movable partitions in place. -Remove the boxes and feeder, or honey board, (whichever is in place) -from over the brood section. Place the ventilator (described elsewhere) -over the brood section, so the lower edge of the ventilator, at the -sides, will rest on the upper edges of the movable partitions, on -each side of the brood section. Pack the sides of the hive (that part -occupied by the side boxes in summer,) closely with very line hay or -straw. Pack the cap as full of the same matter as it can be crowded. -Then put the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator, -filling up evenly, so when the cap is placed ever the upper part, the -cap and sides will be compactly filled. There must be no spaces left -unfilled, the object being to secure an even temperature in the brood -section, and absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees; and to do this -successfully, the cap and sides must be closely packed throughout. -When you have the cap and sides well packed, replace the cap, and the -work is done. Shade the front of the hives during the winter months. -No matter if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury it -from sight, let it remain;--your bees are safe. - -[Footnote 11: To secure a slight upward draught of air, to carry off -the moisture arising from the bees, make a hole a half-inch in diameter -in front and rear of the cap, in the center, close to the top or roof -boards. (And here let me say, the roof boards, or boards covering the -cap, should project about an inch, as they can be more firmly nailed, -and make better joints; for driving rains must not be allowed to -penetrate to the inside of the hive.) The inside of each hole should be -covered with wire cloth, to keep out insects, etc.] - -A neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in Controllable Hives completely -buried in snow over six feet deep, and the crust formed over them -so it would bear a horse. They remained under the snow from January -until April, when they thawed out, and every stock was found to be in -first-class order. - -When there is only a small quantity of snow about the hive, say only -enough to cover the lower entrance, and there should come a very warm -spell of weather, which would bring the bees out, be sure to clear -away the snow so they need not be kept back by it. But it will take an -exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from their dormant -state in the Controllable Hive, and bring them out for a turn in the -open air. If the air is warm enough to induce them to come out, it -is always warm enough for them to fly briskly. In this respect there -is a great contrast between my hive and others. With other hives, an -hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in winter, when the air is -cold, and the consequence is, they fall into the snow and perish by -hundreds. In this way stocks are often reduced in numbers until all -are lost. The dysentery generally attacks such stocks (brought on by -the sudden changes in temperature in the hive.) and hastens their -destruction, by causing them to leave the hive, when they would not -do so if in a healthy condition. Bees, when wintered in Controllable -Hives as directed, will come out in the spring, strong in numbers, and -in a healthy condition--in great contrast to the weak and diseased -stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary manner. I have perfect -confidence in the method of wintering here recommended, for I have -had it in practical use for many years, and have never lost a stock, -notwithstanding some winters have been very destructive to bees in -this section, some, who practice the old methods, losing their entire -stocks. I learn from my correspondents in all parts of the United -States that there is great loss of bees in winter; so great in fact as -to discourage many from attempting to engage in apiculture. - -My plan of wintering is very simple, and commends itself to every -intelligent person. In a few words it may be expressed thus: The -brood section is secured against the effects of sudden changes in the -weather, (this keeps the bees dormant throughout the winter season, -which is as nature designed,) and provides for the absorption of all -moisture and perspiration arising from the bees, white in a dormant -slate. These two points are the foundation of successful wintering. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - TRANSFERRING BEES. - - -AS some of my readers may have bees in ordinary hives, which they would -like to transfer to the Controllable Hive, I will devote a chapter to -Transferring. - -If you have bees in a box or patent hive, or any of the thousand and -one bee hive humbugs, which are of little or no profit, and cause you -much trouble and perplexity in swarming time, and frequent and heavy -losses in winter, you can move them into Controllable Hives--comb, -honey and bees together--and manage them on the plan here recommended, -and they will winter well, come out strong and healthy in the spring, -and cause comparatively no trouble in swarming time, yielding you a -good profit yearly. - -The best time to transfer is as early in spring as the weather becomes -warm enough to keep the bees active every day, which, in the New -England States, is usually in April. It is a good time to transfer -about twenty-four days after the first swarm issues from a stock, as at -that time there is but little brood, and usually but few bees. October -is a very good time to transfer, but not as good as either of the times -before mentioned. Great care is required to prevent robbing, and also -to have the comb frames all filled with combs, and in good position for -the bees to winter. As cold weather is so close at hand, the bees will -have but little time to arrange for winter. - -In transferring, construct the Controllable Hive as directed, with -exception of the comb frames, from which leave off the triangular -piece, as the comb can be better fitted to a flat surface. Make several -holes one-fourth inch in diameter through the top, bottom and ends of -frames, and a like number of sharp wooden pins about two inches long to -fit these holes. - -Early in the morning, before the bees begin to fly, prepare your -smoker, go to the hive you propose to transfer, and before you touch -it, smoke the bees at the entrances moderately, giving them two or -three puffs, waiting about a minute and giving them two or three -more. Then stop the entrances, so no bees can escape. Take the hive -from the stand and carry it to some out-building, so the bees from -the other hives will not trouble you, and get a taste of the honey, -thereby inciting them to robbery. Turn the hive bottom up, and with -two sticks, each about a half-inch in diameter and twelve inches -long, strike the hive lightly half a dozen times, and then wait for -two or three minutes. Then with the sticks on each side of the hive -drum briskly (but lightly, so not to break the comb,) for about five -minutes. Then puff smoke under the bottom board on all sides. Much -of this preliminary work is for the purpose of confusing the bees, -and inducing them to fill themselves with honey from the cells of the -hive, as a bee gorged with honey will never volunteer an attack for -the purpose of stinging. The bees are now ready to be transferred. You -will need some one to assist you, and it will be necessary for you to -put on your articles of protection, and keep your smoker in readiness -for use, as occasionally a swarm is bard to subdue, though the great -majority of them are perfectly docile after the treatment recommended. -But we are to "beard the lion in his den," and to be forewarned is to -be forearmed. - -The bees usually manifest their submission by a loud humming noise. -If after you commence operations (before you get the side of the hive -off) they show a disposition to be cross, replace the bottom board, -close the entrances, if open, and give the insects a good smoking, at -the entrances, and by raising the bottom board enough to introduce -the smoke; give them the smoke freely for several minutes. Then again -remove the bottom board. (These directions apply to the common box -hive. If hives of a different pattern are operated upon, vary the -operation to conform to the requirements of the case, applying the same -principles.) Then with a chisel and hammer remove one side of the hive -(the side to which the bees have attached the least comb,) and with a -thin, sharp table-knife, cut the edges of the comb from the sides of -the hive. It is well to have a table or stand near by, with a cloth -folded in several thicknesses, on which to lay the sheets of comb with -the bees adhering, if necessary. The cloth prevents crushing. Cut out -a comb from the hive with the bees adhering, and cut off the edges, if -required, so it will fit the new frame closely at the top and bottom. -No matter if it does not go the whole length of the frame from front -to rear, as the bees will finish it.[12] Have the comb occupy the same -position, relatively, in the new hive, that it did in the old. When the -comb is in place in the frame, secure it by putting the wooden pins -through the holes in the frames into the combs, and having fastened it -firmly in place by means of the pins, place it in the Controllable Hive -in its proper position. - -[Footnote 12: But very few hives are large enough for their combs to -fill the movable comb frames of the Controllable Hive.] - -Tims proceed, till all the frames of the Controllable Hive are filled, -or the comb in the old hive is exhausted. In transferring, very old, -black combs should be discarded even if you do not have your new hive -more than half full. Get all the bees, it possible, in the new hive, -and when you set it on the stand, close the lower entrance entirely, -and let the upper one remain only one-half open, for a few days, until -the bees get well located in their new home. Be careful not to crush -any of the bees, and take special care not to injure the queen. - -As you will probably complete the operation of transferring at about -the time that bees will be flying briskly about the other hives, it -will be better to put wire cloth over the entrances, to confine the -bees you have transferred, and let them remain in the out-building -until about an hour before sunset; then set them on the stand and give -them their liberty. Keeping them shut up for the time named, gives them -a chance to take up the honey which runs from the transferred combs, -and which might, if the bees were carried immediately to the stand, -incite robbing. - -Transferring is by no means so formidable an operation as at first -appears. I have transferred a very large number of swarms from the old -box hives, without any protection for hands or face, and now the bees -seldom show any disposition to sting. Yet I would advise beginners -to protect themselves, until by practice they become familiar with -the work. "Practice makes perfect" is an old and true saying, and it -applies to all operations with bees, I assure you. In my first attempts -at this work I thought I must be protected, and I would not for the -world proceed without a protector, and that of the most invulnerable -kind. Now, having had much practice, I feel no necessity for any -covering whatever. I trust I have made my method of transferring -perfectly plain, so that every one who wishes may avail themselves of -its advantages. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - ITALIAN BEES. - - -THE Italian Bee is a native of the Alps, and was first imported to this -country about the year 1860. The Italian being a native of mountainous -regions and a high latitude, they were reported to be extremely hardy -and vigorous. Those who were first to obtain them, were unanimous in -their praise of the Italian bee, and fully agreed that it was superior -to our native or black bee in very many respects. The good reputation -which preceded the introduction of the bee to this country, by time and -experience in their care, has been fully vindicated. - -The pure Italian bees are superior to the natives in the following -characteristics: They are more hardy and vigorous, withstanding our -severe winters, with ordinary care, better than the natives; they are -more industrious than the native bee, being very active in storing -honey in cool, windy, or cloudy weather, such as keeps the native bees -quiet in the hives. - -The pure Italian, being larger and more vigorous than the natives, go -greater distances to collect honey, and as they are larger, they carry -more at a time, and being swifter of flight than the natives, they go -the same distance in much quicker time. Then, too, the pure Italian bee -is very beautiful, nearly the entire body being of a golden color, so -that some of its admirers have given it the name of "golden bee." It is -very mild in disposition, seldom offering to sting unless unreasonably -irritated. They show great activity in protecting their hives from the -bee moth, even when weak in numbers. They also show the same trait in -defending their stores from the attacks of robber bees. When the native -bees have come buzzing around a hive of Italians in search of plunder, -I have seen an Italian dart from the hive like a bullet, and seizing a -native, while on the wing, bear him to earth and dispatch him with a -sting. This feat I never saw a native bee accomplish. Being larger than -the natives they are able to reach the honey in the red clover, and -many other flowers not accessible to our common bees, which makes an -essential difference in the amount of honey collected. - -Rev. L. L. Langstroth says of the Italian bees: "They gather more than -twice as much honey in the same localities, in the same time, as the -swarms of native bees." - -I consider the pure Italian Bee a valuable and very desirable -acquisition. I have furnished several of my lady friends with full -colonies of them in Controllable Hives, and they have expressed -themselves as very much pleased with their gentle disposition and great -beauty. - -I think the points of superiority here designated will be found in the -pure Italian bee. Very many, who have purchased bees purporting to be -Italians, have been grossly deceived, having received simply a native -swarm of bees, the queen of which, a pure native, had been impregnated -by a drone having a slight tinge of Italian blood; such stock was but -very little, if any, better than a pure native swarm. - -I find I can make an improvement, even in the pure Italian stock, by -selecting queens for rearing to supply my full stocks and with eggs -and drones, from such stocks as show the superior characteristics in -the fullest degree. This course persevered in for a term of years will -show marked results in the improvement of the desirable points of -superiority found in the Italian bee. - -I take great pride in my Italian bees. I believe they are as beautiful -specimens of this variety as it is possible to produce, and possessing -the characteristics of superiority of the Italians in the fullest -degree. The points which I strive to cultivate and develop fully, -are: Industry, mildness of disposition, beauty of color, vigor of -constitution, etc. - -I have here given in brief my views of the Italian bee, as I receive -many letters of enquiry in regard to them. I base my statements on -practical experience. I would advise all who wish to procure the -Italian bees, to exercise great care in selecting them, and purchase -only of those who are known to have pure stocks, for the best is the -cheapest in the end, no matter if the first cost seems high. If the -worth of the money is in the bees, the higher the price paid, the -better you will be satisfied. But do not pay even a low price for -inferior stock, for you will not be satisfied. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: Controllable Hive. Fig. I.] - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - CONSTRUCTION OF CONTROLLABLE HIVES. - - -ON the opposite page is given Figure I. of a perspective view of the -Controllable Bee Hive, with the measurements of its exterior parts. -The body of the hive is made in two parts, A and B. The lower edges of -the upper part B rest upon the cleats C, attached to the outside of -the lower part of A, near its upper edge--as will be seen by reference -to Figures I. and II. The middle board D of the bottom is loose, and -is held in place by hooks E. The middle board F, at the sides of the -lower part A, are loose, hinged at their lower edges, and are held in -place when closed by the buttons G. In front of the lower part A, near -both its lower and upper edges, are formed slots, or bee passages, H. -The lower part A is divided longitudinally into three compartments by -two movable partitions. The side compartments are designed to receive -the honey boxes J; and the center compartment forms the brood section. -To the inner surfaces of the front and rear walls of the brood section -are attached boards, forming a double thickness, to secure a more even -temperature, keeping out the heat in summer and the cold in winter. -The grain of the inner board runs crosswise of the outer one to -prevent warping. The upper edges of the inner boards are rebated out -five-eighths inch square inside, to receive the ends of the comb frames -of the brood section. - -[Illustration: Controllable Hive. Fig. II.] - -Figure II. is a perspective view of the Controllable Hive, with the -upper part of the case removed, showing the position of the glass honey -boxes at the top, with the feeder T in the rear, and also showing the -position of the side boxes J, in the large frame O. as shown more -clearly in Figure III. The inner ends of the side boxes J, next to the -brood section, are formed of boards C, narrower than the boxes, leaving -side spaces, to allow the bees to pass in and out freely from the brood -section to the side boxes. When top boxes and feeder are not on, a -board called a honey board is placed over the brood section, fitting -very closely, so as to confine the heat, generated by the bees, to the -brood section. In winter the brood section is covered by a ventilator -made as follows: Take a piece of fine board one-half inch thick. Get -out two pieces, each one inch wide and twenty-two and three-eighths -inches long, and two pieces of same width each ten inches long. Nail -the short pieces on to the ends of the long pieces, forming a frame -nine inches wide by twenty-two and three-eighths inches long, inside -measurement. Over this frame tack a piece of wire cloth twenty-three -and three-eighths inches long, by ten inches wide, of a very fine mesh. -This frame will just fit over the brood section, and give a space -between the wire cloth and the top of the comb frames of about one and -three-eighths inches. Tack the wire cloth on closely, so no bees can -escape when the ventilator is in place. This ventilator is to be used -only in winter, as directed under the chapter on Wintering. - -Figure III., on next page, is a perspective view of a set of side -surplus honey boxes and their inclosing frame, with measurements of the -different parts. - -[Illustration: Side Surplus Honey Boxes. Fig. III.] - -The brood section of the hive is twenty and one-half inches long, nine -inches wide and twelve inches deep, inside measurement. The brood -section contains six movable comb frames, resting on rebatings, and -held at the proper distance apart at the bottom by a brace. The only -plate where these frames touch the hive, is where the top bar of the -comb frames rests on the rebating at the ends. To the top bar of each -comb frame (on the under side) is nailed a triangular comb guide to aid -in securing straight combs. Each side of the triangle is one inch wide. -A piece of board one inch wide and three-eighths inch thick is laid on -top of the comb frames lengthwise in the centre on this piece. The ends -of the top boxes rest in the center where they come together. Notches -are cut on the underside, crosswise, to admit of the passage of the -bees.[13] - -[Footnote 13: I have exercised great care, and incurred considerable -expense, in giving drawings with measurements and directions for -constructing Controllable Hives, glass boxes, etc., that such of my -readers as wish may be able to construct the hives and manage bees -according to the new system as taught in this work. I have no time or -desire to establish a business in the manufacture of hives, but if any -of my readers want a full sized Controllable Hive, ready for a swarm -of bees, the better to enable them to make the Controllable Hive, I -will furnish them. Price eight dollars. In no case will I furnish more -than one to the same address. The hive is not patent, so any one can -manufacture and use as many as they wish. They can make them at their -home, especially in the winter season, much cheaper than I can furnish -them.] - -In the construction of hives use the best dry pine lumber, free from -Haws or cracks, and put on a good coat of paint to protect from the -weather. As the hives are to remain in the open air the year round, the -best of lumber is required, and that to be well protected with a heavy -coat of the most durable paint. Make close-fitting joints and nail -thoroughly. - -These hives, if properly constructed of sound lumber, will last many -years. I have had the same hive on one stand incessantly for six years, -and at the end of that time it is as good, to all appearances, as when -first put there. - -All who desire to construct Controllable Hives, and adopt the plan of -bee management recommended in this book, can do so freely, as there is -no patent on the hive, or any of its parts or fixtures. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - MONTHLY DUTIES. - - -THE successful management and care of bees requires forethought and -preparation for all labor and care bestowed upon them, if we desire to -bestow it at the proper time, and in the most judicious manner. I have -in this chapter given only brief hints as to the work to be performed. -Such of my readers as are located in a climate essentially differing -from that of the New England States, will perceive the necessity of -varying their management to correspond with the difference in climate, -etc. - -I shall repeat some of the statements already made, in order to impress -them more thoroughly upon the bee keeper. The object of this chapter -is to bring to the mind of the bee keeper the more important duties -required in the successful use of the system recommended in this work. - - - JANUARY. - -We will commence with January as it is the first month in the year. - -In this month construct hives, glass honey boxes, etc. Give the new -hives a good coat of paint. They will last longer, and as they are to -remain out of doors the year around, it is very essential that they be -preserved against the weather. A good, heavy coat of paint, spread over -good lumber, will prevent cracking and warping. Employ the time, in -this month of comparative leisure, in getting everything in readiness -for the approaching honey season. - - - FEBRUARY. - -February like January is not a busy month with bees in the Northern -States, neither do they require much care. If not finished last month, -continue the work of January by making hives, glass honey boxes, and -all fixtures required in the management of the bees in the coming -season. In some sections bees will fly briskly the last of the month. -Clear away the snow from the foot of the hives at that time. Set out -meal feed for the bees, provided they fly briskly. - - - MARCH. - -At the commencement of this month, clear the snow away from the front -of hives; raise the hives up on blocks at the corners, remove the -bottom board under the brood section, and brush out all accumulations, -which might invite the bee moth to deposit her eggs, if suffered to -remain through the summer. This accomplished, set the hive back in its -place. The first day that the bees fly, set out the meal as heretofore -directed. Commence to feed liquid feed as early as the bees will take -it. Feed regularly every day, or every other day, at evening. When you -commence to feed, remove the packing from the cap, and also take off -the ventilator. The space over the comb frames not covered with the -feeder, cover with a small honey board. Let the packing remain at the -sides until you have put on the side boxes, or until some time in May, -as it keeps the brood chamber warm, which is essential in forwarding -breeding. Open a small portion of the upper entrance (about one-third) -and keep the passage open at the bottom, the same as during the winter. - - - APRIL. - -Early in April--the first warm, sunny day--examine your stocks, and -see if they have fertile, laying queens. If the queen is all right, -there will be eggs and brood in the brood cells. Don't keep the hives -open any longer than is necessary, as the cold air might chill the -brood. At this time, if some stocks have a large amount of honey in -the combs of the brood section, exchange such with some stock that -has but little; as it is a disadvantage to have too-much sealed honey -in the brood combs in the spring. It sometimes happens that all the -brood combs will be filled with sealed honey nearly down to the bottom, -leaving but a very small place en two or three combs near the bottom -for breeding purposes. In such cases, take out two or three combs, and -exchange with other stocks having empty combs, leaving in each such as -have brood and eggs, in every stock. Don't take out any bees. In this -manner equalize your stocks, and all will be benefited. If any stocks -are found queenless, or with diseased or worthless queens, take means -to furnish them with a fertile, laying queen, as soon as possible. In -the meantime, keep the entrances to such hives contracted very small, -so but very few bees can pass at one time, to prevent attacks from -robbers. Queenless stocks, or those which have diseased or drone-laying -queens, will not resist an attack from robber bees with as much vigor -as a stock having a fertile and prolific queen. - - - MAY. - -If surplus honey is your object the coming season, early in this month -put on the boxes at the sides, and the last of the month, or as soon as -the bees commence work in the side boxes, remove the small honey board -over the brood section, and put on the top boxes, except at the place -occupied by the feeder. It may be well to feed liberally for about ten -days before fruit blossoms appear, in order to get the bees at work -in the boxes. You can judge what is best. If the stocks are backward -in breeding, the comb not filled with eggs and brood in nearly every -part, it will be best to defer liberal feeding until a little later. -You should have had the brood combs filled with brood and eggs, before -liberal feeding is begun, else the bees will fill with honey what -should be filled with eggs and brood; and thus the number of bees will -be reduced from what there would be if the queen deposited eggs in all -the cells. You want all the bees possible to gather the honey harvest -of June, July, August and September. - -If you want swarms, don't put on any boxes. - -About the time fruit blossoms appear, or a little before, open both -entrances to their full extent, in all strong and healthy stocks. - - - JUNE. - -This is the month for swarms. It is also the month, in most localities, -when the best quality of box honey is, collected. If you have arranged -for swarms to appear this month, have everything in readiness for -them. If you are arranging for surplus honey, remove the boxes as fast -as filled, and replace with empty ones. Hive the swarms as soon as -clustered. Be sure not to let them remain in the hot sun for any length -of time. Have your hives all ready. This month is a good time to rear -queens in the miniature hives. Keep the grass and weeds about the hives -cut down. They harbor the moth miller, when suffered to grow about the -hives. - - - JULY. - -Continue to take off boxes as fast as filled. Keep a sharp lookout -that the moth worms do not get in and injure the honey in the boxes -which you have removed. If the supply of honey fails when the boxes are -only partially filled, feed the bees liberally, until the boxes are -finished. Do this as soon as honey fails, as the bees will store faster -in boxes if fed as soon as the natural supply of honey ceases. It will -be well to put on a few boxes--say, one side to each new swarm which -has been hived early; and also on old stocks that swarmed early. Put -the boxes on one side first; then if the bees go to work in them, put -in the other side. - - - AUGUST. - -If you have a market near home, the surplus honey in glass boxes will -sell very well the last of this month, before honey is brought from -away; but if you are to ship a great distance, the weather will be too -warm in this month. Keep a close watch that the boxes you have taken -off do rot get wormy. Eternal vigilance is the price of success. - -Keep boxes on your hives through this month and next, for surplus -honey. Keep down the grass and weeds about the hives. - - - SEPTEMBER. - -In some localities September gives a very good yield of honey. I -recollect one season in particular, since I adopted my present system -of bee management, when the yield of box honey in September was very -remarkable. Some of my hives of bees filled their full set of boxes -almost entirely in a few days. I think that it was in considerably less -than two weeks, that they finished them up, and they had only a light -start--a few small pieces of comb in some of the boxes, and in the -others none at all. - -Feed at the last of this month, to complete all partially filled boxes, -and at the very last of the month, or first of October, feed such -swarms as may be deficient of stores for winter, if you prefer to do -this rather than to equalize by exchange of comb frames, as directed -in another place. If you decide to thus equalize, do it the last of -October or the first of November. - - - OCTOBER. - -At the commencement of this month, continue to feed such stocks, if -any, as are short of honey, yet are supplied with a good amount of comb -in which to store honey. As the yield of honey from flowers closes -this month, at its end remove all boxes from the hives. Such as are -partially filled with comb or honey may be set in a cold, dry place, -and remain for use another year. If placed where they will freeze, and -then sealed up carefully, so the moth miller cannot get in, they will -be in good condition when wanted next season. Boxes that have comb -about a third full or even less, are finished very quickly by the bees. -Be sure to keep all such boxes for the next season. You probably have -a few queens in your miniature hives. Look over your stocks, and if -any are found queenless, or with diseased queens, give them a new and -prolific one. - - - NOVEMBER. - -The first of November, if not already done, exchange comb frames, from -stocks deficient in stores to winter, with such as can spare a frame -of honey. Do this until all have stores sufficient for winter. Twenty -pounds of honey will render them safe until you begin to feed in the -spring. From the middle to the last of November is usually the time to -prepare the hives for winter, by packing with hay or straw, as directed -in another place. This should not be done until a few days before -steady cold weather sets in. Care should be exercised not to put it off -until it is too cold; neither should it be done too early. Be sure to -pack thoroughly. Success in wintering depends in a great degree upon -thorough work in packing the hives. - - - DECEMBER. - -In this month procure your lumber and all material for making hives, -boxes, etc., to be worked up during the winter. If there are small -villages or large cities near by, you will find this month a good time -to market your honey, if you have any on hand. With a little effort, -you can have ready customers for your goods, or at least a portion of -it. Honey in glass boxes is in such nice shape, that any one who likes -a fine article, will pay a liberal price for it, after they have once -tested its quality. In a few years you will have established a trade -with ready customers, near home, at remunerative prices. - - - - - CHAPTER XX. - - CONCLUSION. - - -WE often hear this question asked: "Are bees Profitable?" and the -replies given are various, contradictory and amusing, varying in -accordance with the honesty, experience, skill and success of the bee -keeper. Such as have attempted bee keeping with the old fashioned -square box hives, under the old system of management based on fire and -brimstone, will say there is no profit in bees, and that you must not -molest them at all; if you do, "they will run out, and you will loose -your luck." - -There is another class, who have adopted all the extravagant fancies of -the patent bee hive venders, paying large sums of money for hives worse -than useless, with what are claimed to be patent fixtures--expecting -a sudden fortune as the result, and found the whole thing a fraud. -Perhaps they have been duped in this way a half-dozen times or more, -and always with the same result. This class will tell you emphatically, -that everything pertaining to bees is a humbug and a cheat--no money in -them, etc. - -In presenting the statements made in this work, I am not blinded nor -influenced by any selfish motive, in condemning or recommending any one -system of bee management or hive. I only wish to present facts, and -do what little I can to make bee keeping safe and profitable to all -who engage in it. There is much written on the subject of bees--their -habits and management, construction of hives, etc., which is mere -guess-work. A great deal is written, too, for no other than selfish -or prejudiced motives. What is wanted is practical instruction on the -subject--such instruction and statements as are based on experience, -and will stand the test of application, when brought into active, -every-day use. - -The real, practical experience of the bee keeper, who has devoted -many years to the work, and will tell what has come under his or her -personal observation, is worth much more than the finest spun theory -of the most learned and talented theorist; or in other words, mere -conjecture is a poor and uncertain guide in bee keeping. It is an old -but true saying that "Practice makes Perfect." In no business will this -saying apply more closely or with greater force than to bee keeping. - -That bees are profitable when rightly managed, I think I have shown in -this little work; and that they can be of no profit, as often managed, -I think is equally made clear. - -The natural habits of bees have not been sufficiently understood, by -the majority of bee keepers. This has rendered them an easy prey to -the many speculators in bee hives of peculiar shape and construction, -who are constantly urging their claims to possessing great knowledge -of bees, when perhaps they never saw a bee; and care not one straw -for the advancement of successful bee culture. I find, with the great -majority of hives now in use, there are many obstacles to successful -and profitable bee keeping. There is too little room for storing box -honey in them. Boxes are often difficult of access to the bees, so that -they manifest much reluctance about entering them, often clustering -on the outside of the hive through the honey season, when they should -be at work in the boxes. Then, too, the boxes are usually too large, -which renders the honey unsalable. Honey in large boxes often contains -cells of brood, and bee bread, or pollen, interspersed among the honey -cells, which are a great damage to it, rendering it very unsalable. -Glass boxes, each holding about four and one-half pounds, is the proper -size. A swarm of bees in a hive with thirty of these boxes, judiciously -arranged, will fill them nearly as quickly as they would half the -number, as the bees have ample room to work without crowding. - -There are a vast number of bee keepers who now have bees which are of -no profit to them, but instead are only a perplexity and trouble. If -such would manage their bees on correct and scientific principles, in -accordance with their natural habits and instincts, with judicious care -and attention bestowed at the right time, and in the proper manner, -using a hive constructed in accordance with those principles, they -would be surprised at the results which would follow. - -To succeed with bees, we should recollect that personal experience is -the best guide; and next to this is the instruction of those engaged in -the business, who prove by the results which follow their management, -that they make bee culture profitable. In commencing bee keeping, if -you purchase bees, use great care in doing so. Buy none but strong, -healthy stocks. If you purchase in box hives or patent hives, you will -be very likely, if not acquainted with bees, or unless purchasing of -some reliable person, to get diseased stocks; and again, a person who -keeps bees by the ordinary methods, is very likely to have diseased -stocks which he thinks are all right. So, great care is necessary in -buying your outfit to commence bee keeping. Diseased stocks are dear at -any price. You want the very best to start with, if you can possibly -get them. Be sure to get such stocks as have young queens, for if the -stock has a queen four years old or more, (and they are likely to be -that old in box or patent hives, under ordinary management,) such a -queen is liable to fail at any time, and loss of the stock follows. - -In commencing to keep bees, if possible start with good, strong, -healthy stocks, in the right kind of a hive; then you will have no -difficulty in changing them. But if this cannot possibly be done, -be sure to start with strong, healthy stocks. If you must take -second-class hives, of this class the plain movable comb and box hives -are best. But be sure to let the patent hives entirely alone; they are -a curse to the bee-keeper. If you get your bees in second-class hives, -transfer them to Controllable Hives, or as fast as they swarm put them -in Controllable Hives. In this way you will soon have your bees in -shape to pay you a good profit. - -When you begin keeping bees, study closely their natural habits and -requirements. Give them such care and attention as your judgement and -present knowledge teaches they require. Persevere, and ultimate success -is certain. - -Every one who attains success with bees, will find that there is -something more to be done, than simply to stand with folded hands, -with the expectation that a fortune must inevitably follow. Know the -precise condition of your bees at all times--whether they are weak or -strong, whether they are without a queen, or whether the queen has -become so old as to have passed her usefulness. After a period of -years, queens become barren, and unless they are removed, and a young -queen substituted, the bees will rapidly decline in numbers, and all -disappear from the hive in a few weeks or months. - -It cannot be too strongly urged upon the beginner, this great necessity -of securing strong, healthy stocks to begin with; and if possible, get -them in the Controllable Hives. All who do not fully understand the -management and nature of bees would save themselves much trouble and -perplexity, by procuring, to begin with, one or more healthy colonics -in the Controllable Hive. Your chances of success in the end, and your -profits of the first season, are greater from one swarm in this hive, -than from six in second-class hives. If you purchase bees in inferior -hives, you will need to exercise great care that they are not diseased. -There is not one box or patent hive in fifty (as ordinarily managed) -but that is deceased. They are either badly infested with the bee moth, -have old, mouldy black combs, an old and diseased queen, or are in some -way diseased. No matter how low the price paid for such stocks, they -will be found expensive. Be sure to get none but the best to commence -with; they are the cheapest in the end. - -I might illustrate this with many cases that have come under my -observation. One or two I will mention: A gentlemen in Connecticut -ordered of me a swarm of Italian bees in the Controllable Hive, in the -spring of 1880, for which he paid me twenty dollars. He wrote me in -June that they were doing finely, and that he never saw bees work so -well--they were at work in all the boxes, some of them being nearly -filled with honey, and all the combs being filled with bees at work -storing; and from appearances he should get a large amount of surplus -box honey from them. - -Another gentleman wrote me, almost the same time, asking my price for a -swarm of Italian bees, and when informed that it was twenty dollars, he -wrote me that as he could get the Italian bees nearer his home for ten -dollars, he would not order of me, but would invest his twenty dollars -and get two swarms instead of one. He has since written me that one of -the swarms for which he paid ten dollars he has lost outright, leaving -him only a mass of moth worms in old and mouldy black combs. The other -has proved to be queenless, and has caused him more trouble and -perplexity than it is worth, to say the least. There is now not over a -pint of bees in the hive, but he has put in a queen and hopes to save -them from total loss. - -I know of another case where a gentleman bought six swarms of bees in -box hives. They were very heavy and he thought of course they were all -right. He knew nothing of the diseases of bees, and supposed if they -were heavy, and had honey enough, that was all that was necessary. -He bought them in the fall at a very low price, and was much elated -over his purchase. Five of the six swarms died during the winter, and -the remaining one came out in the spring so weak as to be no profit -whatever the next season; and the next winter that also died. - -It is an established fact that to succeed well with bees they must be -kept in hives suited to their habits and requirements, and with the -view of rendering them profitable. Such is the Controllable Hive. And -they must be managed on principles in accordance with nature's laws, -and the instincts and habits of the honey bee. Such is the new system -recommended in this book--Bee Keeping Reduced to a Science; no "luck," -no "guess-work," no "chance" about it. - -Trusting that this little work may be the means of greatly increasing -the profits of bees, I bring it to a close. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber Note - -Minor typos have been corrected. The upper corner of pages 85 and 86 -(back-to-back pages) was torn off. The missing text was obtained from -another copy of the publication. The cover images were compiled from -images made available by the Internet Archive and placed in the Public -Domain. - - - - - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT. 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A New System of Bee Management (1880), by Lizzie E. Cotton</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Bee Keeping for Profit. A New System of Bee Management (1880)</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>First Edition.</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Lizzie E. Cotton</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 4, 2022 [eBook #67769]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials provided by The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain.</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT. A NEW SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT (1880) ***</div> - - - - -<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 351px;"> - <img src="images/cover.png" width="351" height="557" alt="Bee Keeping For Profit: A new system of Bee Management, by Mrs. Lizzie E. Cotton" /> -</div> - - - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">- 1 -</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">- 2 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="lezzie_e_cotton" style="width: 378px;"> - <img src="images/lezzie_e_cotton.png" width="378" height="506" alt="" /> - <div class="smaller">Mrs. Lizzie E. Cotton</div> -</div> -</div> - - - - -<h1 class="u">BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT</h1> - -<div class="figcenter" id="bar_diamond" style="width: 179px;"> - <img src="images/bar_diamond.png" width="179" height="19" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="caption3">A NEW SYSTEM</p> - -<p class="tdc">OF</p> - -<p class="vbig"><span class="smcap">Bee Management,</span></p> - -<p class="caption3">FIRST EDITION.</p> - - -<p class="tdc">BY</p> - -<h2>Mrs. Lizzie E. Cotton,</h2> - -<p class="tdc">WEST GORHAM, MAINE.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="caption3">ILLUSTRATED.</p> - -<p class="tdc">1880.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">- 4 -</span></p> - - -<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by<br /> - -MRS. LIZZIE. E. COTTON,<br /> - -in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">- 6 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> - - -<table class="tblcont" summary="TOC"> -<tr> - <td class="tdl smaller" colspan="2">Chapter.</td> - <td class="tdr smaller">Page</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">I.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Honey Bees</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">19</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">II.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">The Controllable Hive and New System of Bee Management</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">22</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">III.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Patent and non-Patent Hives</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">29</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">IV.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Feeding</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">32</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">V.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Boxes for Surplus Honey</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">40</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VI.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Swarming and Hiving</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">45</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Anger of Bees</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">55</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Bee Moth</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">59</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">IX.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Robbing</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">62</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">X.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Profits of Bee Keeping</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">66</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XI.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Changing Old Queens for Young Ones</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">74</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Rearing and Introducing Queens</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">77</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Sources of Honey</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">84</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIV.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Location of Hives</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">89</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XV.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Wintering Bees</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">92</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVI.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Transferring Bees</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">98</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Italian Bees</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">103</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Construction of Controllable Hives</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">107</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIX.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Monthly Duties</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">113</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XX.</td> - <td class="tdl">—<span class="smcap">Conclusion</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">120</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">- 9 -</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>In presenting this work I have no apology to make. -After an experience with bees dating almost from childhood, -and a careful study of all works published on the -subject of bees, and the journals devoted to that particular -branch of rural affairs, I find <i>theory, guess-work, -prejudice and selfish motives</i> are so prevalent, as to confuse -and discourage the <i>beginner</i>, and finally, all who are seeking -after information by which they may make bee keeping -a source of profit, and who wish to adopt a correct -and scientific system of bee management.</p> - -<p>In my early efforts at bee keeping, I met with many -failures and heavy losses, from being confused by the contradictory -teachings of selfish or ignorant bee keepers, and -from a lack of that personal knowledge which experience, -and a close study of the nature and habits of bees has -now placed in my possession. After many unsuccessful -experiments, and careful investigation, and a close study of -the natural habits and instincts of bees, I have succeeded -in inventing a hive and new system of bee management -which completely changes the whole process of bee keeping, -and renders the business <i>safe</i>, <i>pleasant</i> and <i>profitable</i>.</p> - -<p><i>The hive and system of bee management recommended -in these pages is entirely original with me, and is not -patented.</i> I invented the hive and plan of management for -my own use, as I am engaged in raising honey for market, -and wish every swarm of bees I keep to produce the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">- 10 -</span> -greatest possible amount of surplus honey, and in the -most convenient and attractive marketable form. I -am induced to place this work before the public at the -earnest and oft repeated requests of friends and correspondents. -The work has been hurriedly written, as I -had but little spare time to devote to this matter, consequently -sentences are not all, perhaps, grammatically -arranged. I have made the beautiful of secondary -importance to the useful. I have endeavored, however, to -make my statements so clear as to be readily understood -and comprehended by every person of intelligence, -although he may be wholly unacquainted with bee -keeping.</p> - -<p>Every person, who has a farm or garden, should keep -bees, at least one or more swarms, to furnish honey for the -use of the family. There is no greater luxury than nice -honey in clean snow-white comb in nice glass boxes, such -as is produced by my new system of bee management. -This best of all sweets is now within reach of every one -who has a plot of ground large enough to set a hive of -bees upon.</p> - -<p>After bees are once located in my hives but very little -expense is required to keep them in proper condition, so -that they will give a good quantity of nice box honey -every year.</p> - -<p>Under the old methods of bee keeping, bees required a -great deal of care and attention, especially during the -summer season. And then the winters were very destructive -to them, many often losing their entire stock; or if -they were not a total loss, they were so damaged by the -winter as to be of no profit, and two severe winters in -succession were quite sure to finish them.</p> - -<p>This was very discouraging, and many have abandoned -bee keeping, entirely discouraged.</p> - -<p>On my plan a complete revolution is effected in bee -management, as will be shown in this work.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span></p> - -<p>There is in my opinion no pursuit which offers greater -inducements than bee keeping, especially to women. -There are <i>very many</i> who are confined indoors nearly the -whole time, excluded from the air and sunshine, to the -great injury of their health; and after this great sacrifice -they barely succeed in obtaining a livelihood. To such, -bee keeping offers great inducements, such as improved -health, and a handsome recompense for all labor performed. -I am acquainted with many who have commenced -bee keeping on my plan, who are meeting with -complete success. A lady bought a swarm of Italian -bees of me in 1874, and she writes me that from that <i>one</i> -she increased her stock to over twenty swarms the third -season; besides she got over one hundred pounds of <i>nice</i> -honey from the swarm I sent her the <i>first season</i>. Here -I wish to be clearly understood; I do not wish to hold out -inducements which will never be realized, for the purpose -of causing any one to commence bee-keeping; yet I believe -bee keeping on correct principles should be -encouraged, until bees enough are kept to collect all the -honey now allowed to go to waste, and which if collected -by bees and stored in nice glass boxes, would add millions -of dollars to the wealth of the country.</p> - -<p>Since the day I introduced my Controllable Hive and -new system of bee management to the notice of the public, -the worthless bee hive swindlers and their tools have -been boiling over with wrath against me, lying and slandering -me through the public journals, and especially -through the Bee Journals, and all because, that I, a -woman, had succeeded in inventing a bee hive and new -system of bee management superior to anything yet produced, -and which was fast coming into use on its merits -among bee keepers; consequently the sale of other hives -was <i>decreasing</i> in the same proportion. I first perfected -the hive and system of management for my own use, with -no thought of making it public, but through the kindness -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span> -of my personal friends, and others who have visited me -to enquire into the new system, it has become known -from Maine to Oregon, and adopted by many of the most -intelligent bee keepers in the United States. And in compliance -with that command in the good book which -reads—"<i>Let your light shine</i>," I am determined to spread -the truth, regardless of all opposition from the ignorant -and selfish crowd which is constantly attacking me.</p> - -<p>Without egotism I claim a thorough knowledge of the -habits and instincts of bees. Consequently I claim a -thorough knowledge of the requisites of a hive, and all -fixtures pertaining to it, as well as a knowledge required -to make bee keeping successful and profitable; and -all this has been acquired in the school of <i>experience</i> and -<i>practice</i>.</p> - -<p>Kind reader, I respectfully submit the following pages, -and ask for them a candid and unprejudiced consideration. -Read <i>carefully</i> and <i>understandingly</i>, and apply to bee -keeping, and I feel certain you will realize many times the -cost of this book in the increased profits of your bees, -managed as here directed.</p> - -<p>The statements herein set forth are the result of many -years <i>practical experience with bees</i> with a view of making -the raising of honey for market profitable, and the general -management of bees successful.</p> - -<p class="tdr"> -MRS. LIZZIE E. COTTON.<br /> -</p> - -<p>West Gorham, Maine, Aug. 5th, 1880.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">HONEY BEES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" id="queen_bee" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/queen_bee.png" width="108" height="130" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">QUEEN BEE.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 73px;"> - <img src="images/text_a.png" width="73" height="71" alt="A" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">A </span>SWARM of bees contains <i>one</i> Queen, thousands -of workers and in the summer season a limited -number of drones. The queen is the only -fully developed female in the swarm. She -never leaves the hive except on two occasions—when -leading a swarm, and when but a few days old, to meet -the drone, or male bee, in the air, for the purpose of -fecundation. It appears from close observation that only -one impregnation is operative during life, as old queens -have never been known to leave the hive for that purpose.</p> - -<p>The natural life of the queen averages from four to six -years. Queens sometimes become entirely barren before -death; at other times the eggs of old queens are found to -produce only drones. No matter whether deposited in -drone cells, or worker cells, the progeny will be drones -invariably. When drones are reared in worker cells they -will be very much dwarfed in size, notwithstanding the -worker bees' attempt to overcome the difficulty, by -lengthening the worker cells, to accommodate the monstrosities.</p> - -<p>The queen has a sting, yet she may be handled with -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span> -impunity, for she will not use it except when in deadly -combat with a rival queen. She receives the most -marked attention from all members of her family; -deprive a swarm of their queen, and they will, as -soon as the loss is known, manifest the greatest agitation -and alarm, and if the swarm is one just hived, and -only a few hours from the parent stock, they will -all return at once to the old home. They appear to -fully realize the vast importance of a mother, and that -with no means to supply her place they must soon perish; -and to avoid their impending fate they return to the old -hive. With old stocks deprived of their queen the result -is different, as will be shown further on. Every one who -keeps bees should strive to become familiar with the -appearance of the queen, that they may be able to recognize -her at a glance among thousands of workers, as it -will often be necessary to look her up in my new system -of bee management. In looking for the queen in full -hives, she is usually found on the brood combs, unless in -opening the hive she may have been frightened, and taken -refuge in some hiding place, as the corner of the hive, at -the bottom ends of the comb-frames, or some similar -hiding place. After we become familiar with her appearance -and movements we are able to find her quite readily, -even when the hive is crowded with bees.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="worker_bee" style="width: 82px;"> - <img src="images/worker_bee.png" width="82" height="94" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">WORKER BEE.</div> -</div> - -<p>The worker bee is much smaller than the queen. On -the worker devolves all the labor of the swarm. They -collect honey, pollen or bee bread, and propolis, or bee glue. -The workers produce wax from honey, and from the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span> -wax they build comb, in which to store the honey and -bee bread they collect, for their own use in time of need. -Wax is produced from honey, as butter is produced from -milk. Bees do not collect wax, but they collect honey, -which by a natural process in the stomach of the bee is -changed, and exudes from between the rings of the abdomen -in minute scales of wax, which is detached by the -bee and moulded into comb. The worker bee possesses a -sting, and is ever ready to make use of it in defending -home and treasure. This is a wise provision of nature, -for were it otherwise, the other insect and animal tribes -would appropriate the treasures of the bee—honey, wax, -&c., and this industrious little insect would soon become -extinct.</p> - -<p>The worker bee possesses an instinct but little inferior -to reason in the human family. A few examples will -show their wonderful instinct: Twenty hives of bees, -placed in a row, but a few inches distant one from the -other, all of like size, shape and color; the bees to our perception -<i>exactly</i> alike, no difference in size, shape, color or -action;—yet every bee of this vast number (which at -some seasons of the year would amount to more than six -hundred thousand bees) in these twenty hives knows its -own hive, and if let alone will not enter any other, except -it be for the purpose of securing the honey therein for its -own use, or in other words to plunder and rob its neighbor. -There is no intercourse between swarms—each is a -separate colony governed by a queen. If through mistake -the subjects of one enter the domain of another, a -war of extermination is commenced at once. To test this -point, I changed two hives so that they were reversed, the -one occupying the place of the other. This was done while -the bees were out collecting honey in a warm day. The -first bees that entered the hive were instantly killed, and -this was kept up until the hives were set in their proper -places. The ground in front of the hives was covered with -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span> -hundreds of dead bees. A bee is killed almost <i>instantly</i> -by the sting of another.</p> - -<p>The young bee on its first excursion from the hive does -not leave its home without precaution. With a -view to a safe return, it turns its head towards its home, -rises slowly on the wing, at first describing a circle of only -a few inches in diameter, as it recedes slowly backward, -seeming to so mark every object surrounding the hive -as to enable it to return and enter, without the slightest -danger of entering any other hive. Bees in Spring, in -their first flight, mark their location in this manner. -After the location has been thus marked, the bees -leave the hive in a direct line, and return by their -way-marks, with perfect accuracy and regularity.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="drone_bee" style="width: 132px;"> - <img src="images/drone_bee.png" width="132" height="124" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">DRONE BEE.</div> -</div> - -<p>The drone bee is a clumsy fellow. The drones are the -male bees. Where a dozen or more hives are kept, there is -no necessity for more drones than one swarm would -naturally rear, yet each one of the twelve swarms carries -out its natural proclivities, and rears a large number of -these useless consumers, not one in a thousand of which -is ever of any use. Swarms should not be permitted to -rear a large number of these non producers. A few -are indispensable, yet we should take this matter into our -own hands. Not one drone in five thousand ever fulfils -the purpose for which it was created. Fifty drone cells -is enough for one hive, and when more than this number -is constructed (sometimes they will number a thousand -or more in a hive) cut out all but a very few, and fit in a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span> -piece of worker comb in their place—it is more profit to -raise workers than drones. Drones leave the hive, to -sport in the sunshine in large numbers, every fine afternoon -in June and July. When on the wing they make a -very loud, coarse buzzing. They have no sting and may -be handled without the least fear.</p> - -<p>When the honey season is over, the worker bees drive -out the drones, and a prosperous swarm will not tolerate -a drone in the hive through the winter.</p> - -<p>In September I have seen a quart or more of drones -clustered together near the entrance of the hive, from -whence they had been driven by the bees. The workers on -guard about the entrance of the hive, would not let one -pass into the hive, though they were constantly making -the attempt. As soon as one would approach the entrance -to the hive to pass in, a half dozen or more workers -would seize him, and drag him struggling to the edge of -the platform and pitch him off, at apparent great danger -to his portly and clumsy body.</p> - -<p>I wish to impress strongly on the minds of all who -adopt my plan of bee management, the great importance -of cutting out all the drone cells, except a very few in -every hive. Don't leave <i>more than</i> fifty, half that number -will do. After you have once cut out the surplus drone -comb and fitted in worker comb, there is no further trouble -with an excess of drones from that hive. It takes a great -deal of honey to rear a large brood of drones, and still -more to support them in idleness two or three months.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="frame" style="width: 325px;"> - <img src="images/frame.png" width="325" height="216" alt="HONEY CELL—WORKER CELLS—QUEEN CELLS" /> -</div> - -<p>This engraving represents a section of comb in a -miniature comb frame, containing all the different cells -found in a hive. At the top are cells for storing honey. -At the extreme right, near the bottom, is a queen cell -complete, as it appears in queen raising, or in one week -after a swarm has been deprived of its queen, in a full -stock, or as it is found in stocks that swarm naturally, -at the time the <i>first</i> swarm issues. Though often found -in different places on the comb, and often to the number -of a half dozen or more in one stock or hive, yet its relative -position is <i>always the same</i>. It will always present -the same appearance, whether at the edges or on other -parts of the comb. Near the queen cell is seen the -worker cells, <i>containing brood</i> in all stages of growth, -from the tiny egg just deposited by the queen, to the full-grown -grub, or young bee. Near the worker cells, at the -bottom, are the empty drone cells.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Breeding.</span></h3> - -<p>The natural increase of the honey bee is very imperfectly -understood by the great majority of bee keepers. -Very many suppose that young bees are raised only in -the warm summer months, and their ideas of the <i>modus -operandi</i> of increase are exceedingly vague. I find that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span> -strung stocks have maturing brood nearly every month in -the year—have found brood in stocks in December and -January.</p> - -<p>The queen lays all the fertile eggs in the swarm; consequently -all increase is dependent on her. I say the -queen lays all the <i>fertile</i> eggs, because occasionally under -certain circumstances we find eggs laid by workers, -but under my observation such eggs never mature. Egg-laying -workers are known to be such, by eggs being found -in stocks that have been deprived of their queen, and the -means of rearing another. This is one of the wonders of -nature, of which no satisfactory solution has been given. -The points established as to the sex of bees are these: -the queen is a fully developed female; the drones are fully -developed males; the worker,—<i>what is it?</i> The worker is -said by some to be neuter. If this last is true, how are the -eggs produced? Others say the worker is a female with -generative organs <i>not fully developed!</i> A pretty nice -point—to credit them with the power to produce eggs, -without imparting vitality sufficient to germinate.</p> - -<p>We will leave this knotty question, as it is of no consequence -in the practical management of bees for profit. -Suffice it then to say, the queen is the mother of the entire -family, and without a queen no swarm of bees can long</p> - -<p>The time taken to perfect the three different kinds of -bees, queen, worker and drone, varies slightly. The queen -will mature in about sixteen days from the time the egg -is deposited in the cell. The drone and worker each in -about twenty days. This time is subject to some variation, -governed by the weather, and number of bees in the hive, -which causes the temperature of the hive to be greater or -less. A high temperature will forward, while a low temperature -will retard, the maturing of the brood.</p> - -<p>Swarms with healthy prolific queens increase rapidly -through the spring and summer. The queen at this season -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span> -will deposit from one thousand to fifteen hundred eggs -per day. Some writers estimate higher. To secure so -large a number of eggs, and consequent increase of bees, -we must have healthy prolific queens to start with, and -offer every available facility to encourage the desired -increase. How to do this successfully is shown further -on.</p> - -<p>If we wish to secure a good harvest of honey, we must -have the bees to collect it, and we must have them at the -proper time, viz: <i>when the harvest is ready</i>. To do this -we must encourage breeding to the utmost in <i>early -spring</i>.</p> - -<p>Early in the spring the queen enlarges the circle containing -the brood; perhaps, if the stock was very strong, -and everything favorable, she laid a few eggs in one or -two combs near the center of the cluster of bees in January. -Perhaps the cells occupied at that time were less -than a dozen, all compact together in a circle, occupying -less space than the size of a silver half dollar. As she -progresses, this circle is enlarged, and the cells on the -opposite side of this comb is used; then the next comb -and so on, at the same time enlarging the circle, keeping -the brood <i>compactly together</i>, so that the bees, by -clustering around it, can keep up the required warmth to -forward to maturity the brood. As the young bees hatch, -the queen proceeds with her duties of laying eggs, until -every brood cell is occupied, and as fast as a bee matures -and leaves its cell, she is on hand with an egg to occupy -the vacant place. This is kept up without cessation till -swarming time, when the hive becomes crowded with -bees, then, as preparation for swarming, the queen deposits -eggs, from which the bees by a special course of treatment, -rear queens. When they are sealed over, as shown in the -plate, the old queen leaves the hive with the <i>first</i> swarm -to seek a new home. In about ten days the young queens -hatch and lead out after-swarms—second, third, etc. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span> -When swarming is over, the strongest queen destroys the -others, and reigns over the old swarm till another swarming -season. This is the process in natural swarming; -on my plan we improve upon the process, as will be -shown in the proper place.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/bird_21.png" width="108" height="102" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> -</div> - -<p>THE CONTROLLABLE BEE HIVE AND -NEW SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT.</p> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">I</span>T is now nearly ten years since I perfected the -Controllable Bee Hive and New System of Bee -Management. I commenced bee keeping with -the common box hive, with no knowledge whatever, -of the habits of bees. I was not long in learning -that I could not make bee keeping a success with the box -hive, and I also found that the <i>thousand and one</i> patent -hives were no better, and the great majority of such hives, -<i>inferior</i> to the simple box hive. I found there was no -practical method of controlling the swarming propensities -of bees. All such hives would swarm or not, as -seemed to suit the caprice of the bees, which I found very -perplexing. Stocks under the old plan of management, -sometimes show every indication of swarming, such 'as -clustering out, etc., yet they adhere pertinaciously to the -old stock through the entire summer, a peck or more of -them clustering idly on the outside of the hive, through -the season; and if one put on boxes, it is all the same, -they will do nothing. And such swarms often starve -early the next winter, after passing the summer in idleness. -Other stocks with apparently not so many bees -will swarm several times; often swarm so much as to -reduce the number of bees so low that the bee moth will -effect its destruction during the summer; there not being -bees enough to protect the combs from the attacks of this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span> -destructive little insect. This swarming problem I found -very difficult to solve. There were so many conflicting -theories, I found I could gain no positive, reliable information -from any source, to aid me, and that I must solve -the problem by practical experiment.</p> - -<p>Experience is a good teacher, but often a very costly -one. Some told me if I wished to prevent swarming, I -must cut out the queen cells, which the bees constructed -preparatory to swarming. This was simply impossible, -with the box hive, sol constructed a hive with movable -frames, so the bees, could build their combs in the frames, -and each comb of the hive could be lifted out separately. -But when I attempted to prevent swarming by cutting out -the queen cells, I found if T was to thwart nature in -that way, I had, to say the least, a big job on my hands. -I could cut out the queen cells, but within twenty-four -hours after I had done this, the bees would have others -constructed, and be ready to swarm, and as I kept cutting, -they would keep building. They had the advantage -of numbers and position, and when I opened the hive <i>every -day</i> and destroyed such, to them, important work, they -were not long in declaring and proclaiming me to be an -enemy to them, and they would attack me whenever -occasion offered. I soon found that if not <i>impossible</i> it -was certainly <i>impracticable</i> to prevent bees swarming -by cutting out the queen cells. It was a surprise to -me that this plan should be recommended by bee keepers -claiming to be well skilled in bee management. After -proving this plan of no value, I was told if I would -contract the entrance to my hives so the queen could not -pass, I could thereby successfully prevent swarming, -as the swarm would not leave without the queen. This -looked to me like a very <i>nice</i> operation, to say the least, -in fact, <i>more nice than wise</i>. However, I determined to -test the plan. I accordingly contracted the entrance to my -hives, and lo! the <i>drones</i> being larger than the queen <i>they -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span> -could not pass!</i> so they clustered about the entrance, and -in their efforts to get out, completely blocked up the -passage, so the workers could not pass. Yet this plan of -contracting the entrance was claimed to be protected by -<i>letters patent of the U. S.</i> I found this plan for preventing -swarming of no value whatever. Very many other -plans were tendered me and tested with like results. I -was all this time pushing my experiments, and learning -something from experience every day. I was determined -to arrange and construct a hive which would render bee -keeping successful and profitable, and I can say at the -present time, my labors have been rewarded with success.</p> - -<p>I ought to go on and write out a description of all the -old methods of bee keeping, and all the patent bee hive -humbugs, with the thousand and one <i>non</i>-patent hives -and fixtures, got up expressly to swindle bee keepers out -of their hard earnings, by a class of rascals, many of -whom never owned a swarm of bees, and who care not -one cent whether bee keeping is a success or otherwise, -if they can pocket a round sum by their fraud. Were I -to write out minutely these points, this work would -become too voluminous and extended; besides it would be -of no <i>practical</i> value to the bee keeper, who wishes to -keep bees for profit. I will not, therefore, give such -minute descriptions of all the old systems, hives, etc., -but will confine myself more closely to such practical -information as will be of value to the bee keeper.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Swarming Controlled.</span></h3> - -<p><i>How to control swarming</i> is truly an important question. -I believe that the successful controlling of swarming is -the key to success and profit in bee keeping. Now how -shall we do it? I will tell you. But first a few preliminary -words. If swarms are desired, we arrange in early spring -to have them issue in the swarming season, and at such a -time as will best suit our convenience. When no swarms -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span> -are wanted, we turn the whole force of bees to storing -surplus honey in small glass boxes, throughout the entire -season, and have no swarms, yet have the same increase -of bees that would be gained if they swarmed. Then all -the bees work at storing honey in boxes, instead of -swarming out; and to any one who has not tested the -matter it is surprising to see the amount of honey which -a swarm of bees will store when not allowed to swarm, -and <i>fed judiciously</i>, ample box room being provided of <i>easy -access</i>, so that all the bees have room to work, and by this -plan we are not constantly watching and waiting for -swarms with uncertainty throughout the entire summer, -for we know with certainty when and where to look for -swarms. In my plan, the swarming properties of bees are -effectively controlled, without frequently disturbing or -overhauling them, but by observing rules strictly in -accordance with the habits and instincts of bees.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Here let me be clearly understood. I admit that bees will sometimes -swarm, with abundant room for work in their boxes. Yet I -claim that on my plan all increase by swarming may be prevented -without great trouble or perplexity, such as has heretofore -attended all attempts to bring about this greatly to be desired -object. If a person commences bee keeping, with a certain number -of swarms in controllable hives, and in early spring gives the bees -access to the hive boxes, and later, after they commence work in -them, gives the bees access to the top boxes, giving them otherwise -ordinary care, (except to feed if desired,) but a small proportion -will swarm on the average yearly. Much the larger portion -will work in the boxes without swarming out, and give a handsome -yield of surplus box honey, the yield of course being governed by -the amount of feed given them, and the yield from flowers, etc. -But if increase of stocks is preferred, rather than surplus box -honey—if the bees are not given access to the boxes, but confined -in their labors to the brood section of the hive, being fed as -directed, nearly every one will swarm, and swarm early.</p> - -</div> - -<p>If you wish your bees in controllable hives to swarm -keep the partition in place at the sides of the brood section, -and the honey board over the top; or in other words, -keep the bees confined in their labors to the central or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span> -brood section of the hive. Now, if you wish them to -swarm in any particular week of the swarming season, -ten days before, remove the old queen. (It is well to -kill her, and to do so, take with her about a pint of bees, -and put them in a small miniature hive, six or eight inches -square, with movable frames, like those in the central part -of the controllable hive. Keep them shut in, twenty-four -hours; then give them their liberty, and they will work -the same as a large swarm through the summer; but will -not winter. If such queens are known to be <i>very old</i> it -is best to destroy them when we take them from the -swarm. <i>Keep only young, vigorous queens.</i>) The bees -in the hive, from which you have taken the queen, will -in nearly every instance, construct queen cells <i>immediately</i> -to replace the loss of their queen. At the earliest possible -moment, they seem to sense fully their loss, and to know -that if they do not get another queen at once, their loss is -irreparable. They usually will construct a number of -cells, perhaps a half dozen or more. These will hatch in -about ten days, and then swarms will issue.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Should any stock fail to swarm within two weeks from the time -the queen is removed, at the end of that time, examine such stock, -and if they have no queen they must be furnished with one. About -one stock in twenty, deprived of its queen as directed, will fail to -rear queens.</p> - -</div> - -<p>If you wish to devote but little time to your bees, and -are not particular as to the time of swarming, and wish -to have but <i>very few swarms, or perhaps none at all</i>, -early in the spring, as soon as bees commence their work, -put on the boxes (sides and top,) and give the bees access -to them; side boxes first, top boxes later. By this course, -but a very small proportion of your stocks will swarm, -(if this plan is to be practiced each year, it will be -necessary to replace the <i>old</i> queens with <i>young</i> ones -every three or four years. If this is not done, queens will -die, or become barren from old age, and consequently loss -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span> -of stocks follows. Keep this point in your mind: <i>young -healthy, prolific queens, are essential to success</i>,) as they -will have ample room in the boxes for their labor. -Occasionally a hive treated in this way will swarm, and, -if you wish to have no increase of stocks whatever, if a -swarm comes out, hive it in a light box, and <i>as soon as -this is done</i>, go to the hive which they came from and smoke -lightly; if the bees are cross, lift out the comb frames -from the brood section with the bees adhering; examine -each and every comb <i>carefully</i> for queen cells, <i>and cut -off all but one</i>. Success here depends on <i>care and -thoroughness</i>, for if you leave more than one cell, your -bees may swarm out again in a day or two.</p> - -<p>After this is done, spread a sheet on the ground; set a -light box, like the one in which you have the bees, near -one side; raise the edge towards where you will shake the -bees one inch or a little more, to give the bees a chance -to enter the box. Shake the bees from the hive, by a quick, -jerking motion, upon the sheet, the most of them some -two or three feet from the box. With a large spoon or -ladle, put a few up near the box, so they will enter, and -disturb the others gently with a quill or light brush. -When they commence to enter the box, they will set up a -loud and continual humming, or call, and the bees on the -sheet, if lightly disturbed with the quill or brush, will -spread out, and march towards the hive, while those on -the wing will alight, and join them in the march. Now -look <i>closely</i> for the queen, and capture her. If she is not -found before the bees get into the box, shake them out -again, and go through the same process, till you find her. -As soon as you have secured the queen, the bees, in a few -minutes, finding themselves destitute of a queen, and not -having the means of raising another to take her place, -will rise on the wing, and return to the old stock from -which they came, and will not come out again, but will -work in the boxes throughout the season. I will treat of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span> -this subject of swarming no further in this chapter. -The merits of the Controllable Hive and New System of -Bee Management, will be fully shown further on in this -work, and the most explicit instructions given for rearing -bees with profit.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 186px;"> - <img src="images/rabbits_28.png" width="186" height="148" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">PATENT AND NON-PATENT HIVES, BEE JOURNALS, ETC.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">I </span>HAVE learned from bitter experience, as has -nearly every one, who has kept bees for any -length of time, the dishonesty, and utter disregard -for truth, of a class of speculators who -prey upon the unsuspecting bee-keeper. Patent hives—the -great majority of them—are a curse and a hindrance to -successful and profitable bee keeping. I have no time to -describe the multitude of worthless patent hives, and the -many tricks and swindles of the venders of the same, -but I advise every bee keeper to consult his own interests, -and have nothing to do with them. Ninety-nine out of -every hundred are a swindle. I have tested their merits -and know whereof I affirm.</p> - -<p>The More-patent hives against which I wish to caution the -bee-keeper, and particularly the beginner, are those -offered by A. J. Root, publisher of "Gleanings in Bee Culture." -Root makes the "Gleanings" the medium for -advertising and palming off upon the public his wares. -Don't invest in his trash if you wish to keep bees with -profit. I am sorry to find that many of the bee journals -and bee-keepers' associations, are conducted on prejudiced -and selfish motives, and in the interest of some individual, -or company of men, for the sole purpose of making money -from the sale of some particular hive or fixture, without -regard to merit, or value to the practical bee-keeper. All -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span> -honest discussion, with a view to bring out facts and -figures to guide the inexperienced bee-keeper in his labors, -I am sorry to say, is suppressed. The bee journals should -be the disseminators of <i>useful</i> knowledge among bee-keepers. -I am sorry to find the reverse true with many -of them. After a thorough investigation, I feel it my -duty to advise bee-keepers, and those contemplating bee-keeping, -<i>not to take all for granted that they read in the -bee journals</i>, for if you do, you will be very likely to -soon find yourself robbed of your money, and your bees -ruined.</p> - -<p>Very many who write for the bee journals with high -sounding words, claiming to be adepts in bee culture, -have really no <i>practical</i> knowledge of the nature and -habits of bees. We have supported a host of speculators -in our business, for a long time; the object of this class -has ever been, how best to secure our hard earnings, and -with no desire or effort to aid in rendering bee keeping -more profitable and desirable. The country is full of this -class, and they always combine to crush out real merit -in anything pertaining to bee culture, brought before -the public by individual bee-keepers, who are laboring to -advance the cause by giving their experiences, gained -from hard every-day labor among bees.</p> - -<p>For many years I have written articles on bee culture, -for the leading agricultural journals and newspaper. I -have thus given much of my experience in detail, with no -thought of further reward than the satisfaction of having -contributed to aid bee-keepers in raising bees with -greater profit, believing if all would so contribute of their -practical experience with bees, great mutual benefit -might be gained, and rapid progress made in successful -and profitable bee culture. In consequence of my course -in spreading information with a view to aid the cause, the -class referred to in this chapter, and their tools, are boiling -over with wrath towards me, lying and slandering me -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span> -through the public press, and by every other means which -their depraved natures can invent. All because I have -succeeded by hard study in perfecting a hive and new -system of bee management, which is fast coming into -general use among bee keepers; consequently the sale of -their worthless trash is decreasing rapidly. But I am -anxious to get through with this part of my work, and -reach the practical part, where I have the greatest confidence -in my ability to give such information as will -render bee keeping profitable and desirable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/bird_21.png" width="108" height="102" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">FEEDING.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 89px;"> - <img src="images/text_f.png" width="89" height="92" alt="F" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">F</span>EEDING bees, when judiciously managed, -is the stepping stone to large profits from them.</p> - -<p>Bee-keepers who have heretofore attempted -to feed bees have met with poor success.</p> - -<p>A bee-keeper of my acquaintance paid fifty dollars for -a patent apparatus for feeding bees together in the -open air. The result was, soon after being fed, they commenced -fighting among themselves. The weaker stocks -first fell prey to the stronger, then the stronger in turn were -attacked, and the final result was, nearly every stock was -ruined, and the plan abandoned in disgust after the first -season's trial.</p> - -<p>Now it is plain to every intelligent person, that in order -to receive the greatest possible profit from bees, they must -be fed. There can be no question as to the great benefit -to be derived from feeding bees. The only question is, -how, when and what to feed. It is as much a necessity -to feed bees, as to feed our domestic animals, cows, sheep, -&c., or to apply manure to plants, or any crop the farmer -cultivates, to stimulate growth and increase the product, -and consequent profit of the same. We should look upon -that farmer as either a fool or a lunatic, who should -furnish his domestic animals no food, except what they -obtained by grazing in the pastures and fields, the year -round. And do you think his cows treated thus, would -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span> -yield him a large product of butter, cheese and milk, and -consequently a good profit in dollars and cents? Do you -think he would find his cows, managed thus, so profitable -as to induce him to keep cows to any great extent? Let -a farmer manage thus—take his cows to the barn, milk -them, then turn them out the year round to graze and -provide for themselves, taking them up only to milk them, -furnishing them with no food except what they procure -by grazing—how long, think you, would such a farmer -have cows to milk? Yet this is a parallel case with the -bee-keeper who furnishes his bees with no feed except -what they can procure by their own industry. And is it -surprising that bees treated thus pay no profit?</p> - -<p>Again, the farmer who should year after year plant his -corn, potatoes, etc., apply no manure, furnish no cultivation, -yet expect to succeed in farming, harvest large -crops, and get a good yearly profit in dollars and cents, -and grumble because he did not, and at last abandon the -business, asserting that there was no profit in farming, -furnishes another parallel case to the bee-keeper who -lets his bees shift for themselves, and then grumbles -because they pay no profit, and at last abandons the -business, asserting that there is no money in bee-keeping.</p> - -<p>It being self evident that it is profitable to feed bees, it -now remains to show how to do it with the greatest -possible profit.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Receipt for Feed.</span></h3> - -<p>To eight pounds of coffee crushed sugar, add two -quarts of soft water, and whites of two eggs; bring to the -boiling point over a <i>slow</i> fire, being very careful not to -burn it. Skim off carefully all skum or sediment that -rises, so that the feed, when cool, will be perfectly clear -and about the consistency of new honey.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="feeder" style="width: 519px;"> - <img src="images/feeder.png" width="519" height="363" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">FEEDER.</div> -</div> - -<p>To construct the feeder,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> get a tin-worker to make you a -tin dish, with perpendicular sides, nine inches square -inside, three inches deep, <i>without a bottom</i>. Around the -lower edge turn the tin out about one half inch all round, -for the dish to rest on when placed on the hive for feeding -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span> -the bees. Around the top of this dish put a stout wire to -keep it in shape Get another tin dish made 8 by 8½ -inches square inside, two and one-half inches deep, with a -bottom. Place the smaller dish inside the larger one, the -bottom of the inner dish <i>even and level with the lower -edge of the outer dish</i>, which brings the top of the under -dish one-half inch lower than the upper edge of the outer -dish; then when the outer dish is covered, (as it will be -in feeding,) there will be a halt inch space between the -cover over the outer dish, and the top of the inner dish.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> With the aid of the engraving, there can be no mistake in constructing -the feeder, particularly as its position on the hive is -shown under head of Construction of Controllable Hive, <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">Chapter XVIII</a>.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Place one of the shorter sides of the inner dish against -the inside of the outer dish, in such a position that there -will be a half inch space all round between the outer and -inner dish, except at the side where you fasten them -together; across this one side join them firmly together -with solder; at the bottom near the opposite end solder -brass or tin about one inch wide, across the half-inch -space from the bottom of the inner dish to the edg;e of -the outer dish, to hold the dishes firmly in place. Near -the upper edge of the outer dish solder an some strips of -lead about one inch long, by one-half inch wide, to turn -down over the corner when put on, to hold it in place. -Now get out two pieces of half-inch board, eight inches -long, and two and one-half inches wide; with a thick saw, -cut channels crosswise of the pieces, three-eighths of an -inch apart and one-fourth inch deep, the whole length of -the pieces, being careful to run your saw <i>square across -the piece every time</i>. Next get out pieces to correspond -with the number of channels, eight inches long, two and -one-half inches wide, one-eighth inch thick, (sawed out so -the sides will be rough, to enable the bees the better to -hold fast to them, when taking feed). These pieces are -to stand edgewise in the inner dish. With a sharp knife -bring the ends of the pieces to a thin edge, so they will -easily slip into the channels in the half inch pieces. Put -the pieces with the channels, one across each end of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span> -inner dish, the channels of each facing the inside of the -dish, then slip the ends of your pieces that are one-eighth -thick down through the channels, to the bottom of the -inner dish. Before you put them down into the dish, cut -out a small notch, in what will be the lower end of each -piece after it is put down into the dish, so the food when -poured in will flow to all parts of the feeder. The pieces -or slats when all put edgewise in the dish will reach to the -bottom and be on a level with the edges of the <i>inner -dish</i>.</p> - -<p>Now for the cover: get out a piece of board a half-inch -thick, nine and one-fourth inches long, four inches -wide. In the centre of this piece, with a sharp bit, make -a one-inch hole; cover the hole with fine wire cloth, bent a -little convex. Put this piece of board over the outer dish, -with wire cloth next to the inside of the dish, (put it across -that end where the dishes are soldered together,) hold it -in place by turning up over it the pieces of lead soldered -on near the upper edge of the outer dish. Cover the -bottom of the dish with glass, held in place in the same -manner, by the leads.</p> - -<p>Your Feeder is now finished. Set it over the brood section -on the top, at the rear, the wood cover next to the -back of the hive, the glass toward the front. Cover that -portion of the brood section of the hive, not covered with -the feeder, with a honey board, so no bees can get up into -the cap of the hive.</p> - -<p>Now to feed, pour the feed in at the inch hole, in the -cover. The bees pass from the hive up between the sides -of the outer and inner dishes, in the half-inch space, -over the sides of the inner dish, in the half-inch space between -the cover of the outer dish and the edges of the slats -that are placed edgewise in the inner dish, and pass down -<i>between the slats</i>, after feed in the inner dish. The hole -in the cover should be kept closed with a cork, to confine -the heat to the hive, exclude insects, etc.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span></p> - -<p>When first commencing to feed a stock, scatter some of -the feed over the tops of the frames in the brood section; -also on the sides of the dishes on each side of the half-inch -space leading lo the feed, and on top of the slats of -the feeder, so the bees may find the way to the feed. -After they once learn the road, they will need no coaxing -to induce them to take the feed given them. The first -warm days in early spring, as soon as the bees can fly a -few hours in the middle of the day, mix corn meal with -rye meal, equal parts, and set out, in pans or other shoal -dishes, near the hives. The bees will carry this to their hives -in considerable quantities. It it used as a substitute for -pollen or bee bread, and is very essential in forwarding -the increase of bees in early spring. The meal should -be fed <i>very early</i> in spring, for as soon as the bees can -collect pollen from the natural sources—trees, shrubs, -flowers, etc., they will not take this meal.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Feeding for Early Swarms.</span></h3> - -<p>If you wish early swarms, keep the bees confined in -their labors to the brood section of the hive, or in other -words, do not give them access to the boxes, and commence -as early in the spring as the bees begin to fly in -the middle of the day, and feed each stock at evening -about one-half pound of the liquid feed. Continue this till -your swarms issue, then discontinue feeding.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Feeding for Surplus Honey.</span></h3> - -<p>If you wish surplus honey instead of swarms, put on -your side boxes as early in the spring as the bees commence -brisk work on flowers,—as a general rule, say a -few days before fruit blossoms appear. Feed as directed -for swarms until about ten days before white clover -blossoms, then put on the top boxes, leaving room only -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span> -for feeder. Then for ten or twelve days feed them all -they will take. Feed at evening. They will at first, perhaps, -take from five to ten pounds every night. <i>Crowd -them hard</i>, for the object is now to get every part of the -brood section (not occupied by eggs and brood) filled -with honey; and if possible, crowd the bees into the boxes -to commence the work of comb building, so that during -the yield of honey from flowers, you can get every ounce -collected, stored in the boxes.</p> - -<p>By <i>early and judicious feeding</i>, we have encouraged -breeding so that now our hives are filled, almost to overflowing, -with bees, ready to gather the harvest from the -flowers as soon as they commence to yield honey.</p> - -<p>Discontinue feeding, while the yield of honey continues -in full supply from the flowers. At the close of the yield, -if you have boxes half filled or more, feed all they will -take up for a few days, or until your boxes are finished.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Feeding for Winter.</span></h3> - -<p>The last of September or first of October feed such -stocks as are short of stores, to winter them. Each stock -should have twenty pounds of honey in the brood section -to winter safely. If they have less than that, feed until -they have that quantity, or take a frame of honey from a -stock that has some to spare, and exchange with the one -that is short, and so proceed until all have sufficient -stores to winter safely.</p> - -<p>In no case take out frames at the close of the season, -and leave that space without a frame, or with an <i>empty</i> -frame. At the commencement of winter every hive must -(to winter safely) have its full number of frames <i>filled</i> -with comb, no matter if they are not filled with <i>honey</i> (if -the hive has the required number of pounds,) but each -frame must be filled, or <i>nearly</i> filled with comb, or there -is great danger of loss from sudden changes of temperature -through the winter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span></p> - -<p>In feeding for box honey, it often requires more than -one pound of feed to secure a pound in boxes, for the -bees consume some while storing it, and they often find -some place in the hive which, like the crowded omnibus -or street car, is not so full but that additions may -be made.</p> - -<p>The reader will bear in mind this simple fact: <i>Bees do -not make honey, they simply collect it.</i> Honey undergoes -no chemical change in the stomach of the bee.</p> - -<p>Several years since my bees had access to several molasses -hogsheads, and the result was, I found <i>pure molasses</i> -stored in my hives, in the same comb with nice white -honey. I am satisfied that the bee does not <i>make honey</i>, -but <i>collects it</i>. My feed is prepared and recommended in -view of this fact, and in perfect accord with all points -bearing upon this subject.</p> - -<p>The feed is of the same color as the nicest, white clover -honey, and when put in boxes by the bees with the honey -collected from flowers, (I have no doubt in many -instances in alternate layers in the same cell with honey -from flowers,) it cannot be distinguished, either in color -or taste, from honey collected <i>wholly</i> from flowers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/bird_21.png" width="108" height="102" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">BOXES FOR SURPLUS HONEY.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p>IN the last chapter directions were given, when -to put on boxes, but it is important to know -more about this matter, the kind of boxes to -use, how made, etc. I shall recommend a -glass-box; that is, glass sides with wood corner-posts, top, -and bottom,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> such as I use with the Controllable Hive. -The size and description of box is as follows, viz: get -out a piece of board six and three-sixteenths inches long, -by four and three-sixteenths inches wide; three-sixteenths -inch thick for the top of box; another, same size, for -bottom. For the top boxes, that is, the boxes that are to -be placed over the brood section, with a sharp bit make -four one-inch holes in one of the pieces, for the passage of -the bees from the hive to the top boxes; next get out four -pieces, five inches long, five-eighths square, for corner-posts -to the boxes. Rebate two sides of each post about -one-fourth inch square, to receive the glass sides and ends, -which are held in place by small tin points. Get glass -for the boxes 5 × 5½ inches square for the sides, and 3½ × 5 -inches square for the ends. Nail the bottom and top to -the ends of the posts, having the corner of the post come -out even with the corners of top and bottom. A small -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span> -(half-inch) finishing brad will hold the posts in place. -While nailing, hold the box perfectly square.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> These boxes are shown in engravings under head of Construction -of Controllable Hive, <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">Chapter XVIII</a>, which, with the description -here given, cannot fail to be understood.</p> - -</div> - -<p>For the side boxes, omit the holes in bottom, and leave -out the glass from one end, and in place of the glass put -in a piece of wood five inches long, two inches wide, three-eighths -inch thick; place this piece in the center at the -end, leaving an open space next to each corner post at -that end for the passage of the bees from the hive to the -boxes.</p> - -<p>These boxes are just wide enough for two combs running -the longest way of the box. Before putting in the -glass, if you have any pieces of white, clean comb, it will -be a great advantage to stick two small pieces of this -comb in each box, where you wish the comb built. Place -the pieces in the top of the box two inches apart. Melt -the edge of the comb and apply in place where you want -it, while hot; hold it in place till it cools, and it will -remain.</p> - -<p>The bees will commence work much sooner in boxes -with the comb than they would without, even if the -pieces of comb are not more than an inch square.</p> - -<p>These boxes, when well filled with honey, will each -weigh about four and one-half pounds. Honey in the -boxes is very attractive, and is sought for in the market -by customers who have purchased in this form. Honey -put up in these nice glass boxes shows its superior quality -at a glance, and customers prefer to purchase in such -boxes, with no tare deducted for weight of box, to purchasing -in the ordinary wood box with the weight of the -box deducted.</p> - -<p>In taking these boxes from the hive, when filled with -honey, in warm weather, I recommend the following -method: Take the boxes off early in the morning, and -carry them to some out-building, and put them in a clean, -tight box or barrel; place the boxes in such a manner -that the openings in the boxes will be free for the passage -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span> -of the bees from them. Spread over the box or -barrel, a thin piece of cloth. The bees will leave the -boxes, and collect on the under side of the cloth, which -must be turned every few minutes, until all are out, -except a few drones and very young Lees; these can be -taken out with a pencil. To facilitate the removal of the -bees from the boxes, if any are obstinate about leaving, -remove the glass in the sides of the boxes, <i>if the cover is -not fastened to it</i>. The greater part of the bees from -these boxes will return to their hives; excepting a very -few young ones which had never before been away from -the hive; these will be lost. Thirty boxes like the ones -here recommended fit each controllable hive—ten on each -side, and ten on top over the brood section.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> When the box frames or partitions are taken out in the honey -season, the bees will often, if the stock is strong, spread out over -the bottom, so that in putting the frame in, a large number will get -crushed. To prevent this, get out two pieces of wood, each about one -and one-half inches wide, and one-fourth inch thick, one eighteen -inches long, the other twenty-two inches long; one edge of the -long piece bevel to a thin edge, about the shape of a carpenter's -chisel. Nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short -piece at right angles with it, with the beveled edge down, so the -beveled edge will be level with the end of the short piece; also -bevel the lower end of the short piece. When the bees are spread -over the bottom of the box section, with this instrument push -them gently back to the brood section. To do this, thrust the -instrument down into the box section with the beveled edge down; -taking hold of the end of the short piece, or handle, work the bees -gently back to the brood section, and when close up to the combs -of the hive, let it remain to keep the bees from spreading over the -bottom till you get the box frame down in its place, then remove -it, and push the box frame up close to the brood section, so the -ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs, as the inside -board of the partition was when the combs were built. If this is -not done, and a large space is left, the bees will either lengthen the -cells in the outer comb of the brood section, or build a new comb, -between the ends of the boxes, and the outer comb of the brood -section. In either case, we would find it very troublesome when -we remove the boxes, and wish to put in the partition for wintering. -Be sure to put the large box frame up close to the combs of -the brood section, that is, leave barely space enough for the bees -to pass between the ends of the boxes, and the outer comb of the -brood section.</p> - -</div> - -<p>When boxes are to be taken off, use tobacco smoke -freely, to quiet the anger of the bees. Puff smoke in at -the entrance of the hive, before you touch it, then start -the <i>top</i> boxes from their fastening, giving the bees a puff -or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the -top and sides.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cake of Honey in Boxes in Warm Weather.</span></h3> - -<p>Considerable care is necessary for the preservation of -honey in boxes removed from the hives in warm weather. -As soon as the bees are all out of the boxes, seal up all -openings to the boxes, and set them away (in the same -position they occupied in the hive, so the honey will not -leak from the cells) in a <i>dry, dark, cool room</i>. We must -now guard against the moth.</p> - -<p>As in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed -to the dead carcase, so is the moth directed to honey-comb -left without bees in the summer season, and by a similar -process is each destroyed. When the bees have been off -about ten days, or perhaps a little less if the weather is -very warm, examine closely for the first appearance of -the moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes. -Their presence may be known by small, thread-like -webs or cocoons on the surface of the comb, growing -larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth. If no -remedy is applied, these worms will completely destroy -the beauty of the honey in the boxes in a very few days. -Watch the boxes closely, and on the <i>first</i> appearance of -the least sign of worms in the boxes, fumigate with -burning sulphur, thus: open the passages in the boxes; -have ready a tight, clean box; saturate some <i>very dry</i> -pine shavings with melted sulphur. After placing your -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span> -boxes of honey in the box, set a saucer or plate in the -box at the bottom, away from the honey boxes, so they -will not take fire. Do not use too many shavings; if you -do, it will injure the honey comb in the boxes, by giving -it a green color, and imparting to it a disagreeable taste; -a half-dozen shavings each four inches long is enough. -Place them in the dish and ignite them, and cover closely, -so no fumes can escape; let them remain for a <i>few minutes</i>, -(not more than five, less is often sufficient; it -depends something on the amount of sulphur adhering -to the shavings, as well as the size of box, number of -boxes to be fumigated, etc.) With a little practice you -will manage correctly and successfully. As soon as the -boxes are fumigated, seal up <i>every opening carefully</i>, -and set away as before directed, in a <i>dry, dark, cool -room</i>. Watch the boxes for a few days, to be sure -the worms are all killed. If you find they are not, give -them another dose of the sulphur. After the worms are -all killed, and every opening to the box sealed up, wrap -each box separately in paper, and they will be safe -through the summer.</p> - -<p>How the eggs of the moth get into the boxes, has -always puzzled bee-keepers. It is hardly possible for the -moth miller to pass through a hive crowded with bees, -to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes. How they -get there must be guess-work—that they are there, -is well known to many bee keepers. I feel very confident -that the eggs are deposited there after the boxes -are taken from the hive, and while we are getting the -bees out of the boxes.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">SWARMING AND HIVING.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 84px;"> - <img src="images/text_u.png" width="84" height="82" alt="U" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">U</span>NDER the old systems of bee keeping, -swarming was very imperfectly understood. -And even at the present time it is amusing -to see how many old bee-keepers manage -their bees. This is a class of old fogies, who denounce all -improvements and progress in bee keeping, and who, year -after year, move in the same tracks in the management of -their bees, asserting that they know all about bees that is -worth knowing. It is, to say the least, amusing, to see -how this class of bee-keepers manage when their bees -swarm.</p> - -<p>In the middle of some very warm day in June or July, -the alarm "<i>bees swarming</i>," is sounded. Immediately the -whole household is turned out, some beating tin pans, -some sounding horns, some shaking cow bells—anything -and everything with which to make a terrible din is -caught up in the excitement, and every member of the -household works with the sole aim of making as much -noise as possible. This is done to <i>make the bees cluster!</i> -<i>If this is not done, they will leave for the woods!</i> I should -think the poor bees would leave any way, to get rid of the -noise and the foolish whims of their owner. But no, -they dislike to leave the place of their nativity, so in -ten minutes or less from the time they leave the -hive, they settle in a cluster on some object, generally -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span> -within a half-dozen rods of the hive. And they would -have done so in this case if no noise had been made. <i>The -noise did not affect them in the least.</i></p> - -<p>Now the bees are to be hived, and we will see how it is -done in the old way.</p> - -<p>The bees in this case have clustered on a limb of a -valuable pear tree. "Very sorry they have pitched there," -says the man of perfect knowledge in bee keeping; "I -dislike to injure that tree, but there is no help for it."</p> - -<p>But first a hive must be prepared. It is not quite ready. -(This is bad management.) It must be washed out -thoroughly on the inside with salt and water, and rubbed -over with some sweet scented herbs. A bottom board -must be got ready etc., etc. At last the hive is ready. -Now this wise bee keeper places a table near where the -swarm clustered, sets his hive on the table, raises one -edge four or six inches, takes his saw—Oh, it is a pity to -cut that nice limb full of fruit from the pear tree; but -it must be done, thinks this man of perfection in bee -management.</p> - -<p>He grasps the limb firmly near the cluster of bees. -They are <i>very cross, and uneasy</i>. They have been -clustered an hour or more, while he has been getting -his hive ready. He saws off the limbs on which the -bees are hanging, and places it carefully, with the bees -adhering, on the table, by the side of the hive, covers all -<i>very nicely</i> with a clean sheet, and leaves them alone to -enter the hive. At <i>about sunset</i> he will place the hive -with the bees in it on the stand it is to occupy.</p> - -<p>At the time designated (about sunset) he goes out to his -hive on the table. It has been a very hot afternoon, and -the hive was where it received the full force of the sun's -rays. He carefully raises the sheet. There is the limb on -which the bees clustered, but where are the bees, they -are not on the limb? Why, in the hive, of course. That is -where he expected to find them. He peeps carefully under -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span> -the hive to see how they are getting along, but astonishment -is depicted on his countenance when he discovers -that his hive is empty. His bees have left for other parts -beyond his knowledge. He tries to think of some -reason why the bees have gone, and seeks to lay the -blame upon the hive. "Oh!" he says "I guess they did -not like the hive, but I guess I shall have better luck -next time."</p> - -<p>To a progressive bee keeper, one who has correct and -practical knowledge of the natural habits of bees, it is -very plain why they left. They were actually driven -away by mismanagement. The heat of the sun pouring -down upon them, was enough of itself to drive them off. -Then placing the limb, with the cluster adhering to it, -on the table near the hive, showed lack of knowledge -of the natural habits of bees. The hive might as well -have been in the house, as placed where it was. Then -the hour or more taken to get the hive ready, gave the -bees time to send out their scouts, to look up a location -of their own, and when these scouts returned, they left -with them for a new home. T contend every swarm does -this, viz: They swarm out of the old parent stock, led -by the old queen. They cluster on some object, as a tree, -brush or vine, near the old home. Then they immediately -send out a few bees or scouts to look up a new home. -These scouts may be gone a longer or shorter time. -When they return, if they find the bees clustered where -they were when they left, they soon lead them off to the -new quarters, but if before the scouts are sent out, or -before they return, the swarm is hived and placed on the -stand it is to occupy, then the swarm will not leave, for -the scouts know not where to find them, or if they should -find them, the bees would seldom leave a good clean hive, -for a home in the woods. These scouts may often be -seen playing about the place where a swarm has clustered, -for several days after the swarm has been hived.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span></p> - -<p>Had this bee keeper placed his hire on the table, <i>as -soon as the bees were clustered</i>, and raised the front edge -one inch, instead of four or six inches, and then, instead of -cutting off the limbs, if he had taken a basket or pan, -placed it beneath the cluster of bees, and by a sudden jar -of the limb dislodged them from it into the basket or -pan, then emptied them down in front of the hive, and -sprinkled lightly with a little water, at the same time -disturbing them gently with a quill or light brush so -they would not collect around and block up the entrance, -except a very few that may be flying in the air (and these -will return to the old hive,) in this way getting them -all into the hive, and immediately carrying it to the -stand it was to occupy, covering it with a board to -shade it from the hot rays of the sun, or placing it in the -shade of a tree, he would have saved his bees, the damage -to his pear tree, and much perplexity.</p> - -<p>By the old methods of managing bees, there were no -means of knowing when to expect swarms; consequently -the bees were sometimes watched all summer, in expectation -of swarms any pleasant day, as outside indications -were fa vol able for them; yet they would often adhere to -the old hive throughout the entire summer.</p> - -<p>With the controllable hive and new system of bee -management, as shown in this work, swarming is brought -completely under the control of the bee keeper. It is -well for him to understand <i>correctly</i> what are the requisites -and preparations for natural swarming by the bees, -when left to themselves in a natural state. They are as -follows: The bees must be obtaining honey freely, either -from flowers, or from feed supplied them. The combs -must be filled with brood in all stages of growth, from -the egg just deposited in the cell, to the perfect bee just -emerging. (And from this, bee keepers will note what -conditions are required at the time swarms are forced, -as recommended in my plan.) When this condition of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span> -affairs is reached, the bees construct queen cells, (that -is, if they deride to swarm; they will do as they like about -it, if left entirely to themselves,) from which in about -sixteen days the queens will hatch, unless the bees should -change their intentions, and decide not to swarm, and -destroy all the queen cells. Remember, they are having -it all their own way. When these cells are sealed over and -finished is the time (if everything is favorable), when the -first swarm leaves, led off by the old queen. Some of -the most reliable works on bees have taught that the -queen cells <i>must be half finished before the queen will -deposit the egg that is to produce the queen;</i> but this, I -find by close observation, is a mistake; for if you take -the queen away from a stock, <i>with no queen cells in any -stage of formation in the hive</i>, the bees will rear a queen -<i>from a worker egg, deposited in an ordinary worker cell</i>. -And who shall say they do not do this when the queen is -present? I am satisfied they do.</p> - -<p>Thus we see in <i>natural</i> swarming, <i>with the bees left to -themselves</i>, the old queen leaves with the first swarm, at -about the time the queen cells are sealed over and -finished, which is about eight days before the young -queens hatch.</p> - -<p>When the young queens hatch, after-swarms (as second -and third issues, or all after the first,) will issue. -Second swarms may be expected in about eight days after -the first. This time will sometimes vary, as the hatching -of the queen somewhat depends on the weather, -the number of bees left in the old stock, etc.; a low temperature -retards the hatching, while a high temperature -forwards it.</p> - -<p>At evening of about the eighth or tenth day after the -first swarm, by putting your ear close to the hive you will -hear, very plainly, every few minutes, several clear and -distinct "peeping" sounds, very sharp at times, then -hoarse and dull. This sound proceeds from the young -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span> -queen just hatched. When it is heard, look out for a -swarm the next day; though it sometimes happens that -one or two days will intervene before they will issue. -But as long as the sound continues, be on the lookout for -swarms. This "peeping" can always be heard before a -second swarm issues, if we will take the trouble to listen. -The time between second and third swarms is invariably -from one to four days. It is useless to look for after-swarms -from a stock <i>after twenty</i> days from the first. They are -generally all out within sixteen days from the issue of the -first swarm. I have given in another place, under the -head of "Swarming Controlled," instructions how to -manage swarming under my new system. Some -additional information I will give in this connection.</p> - -<p>Just before swarms are expected, if there are no trees -near your hives, or if there are large trees from which it -would be difficult to take a swarm of bees were they to -cluster on the branches, procure several evergreen trees, -such as spruce or fir, three or four feet high. Leave the -limbs on, excepting about a foot at the bottom. Sharpen -the trunks, so they can be set in the ground and lifted out -with ease. With a bar make large holes, about a foot -deep, in front of your hives, some distant about six feet, -others from twelve to thirty feet. Set a half-dozen or more -of these trees in these holes, putting in by the side of -them a small stone or piece of wood, to hold firmly in place -and prevent swaying by the wind. When your swarms -issue, they will be very likely to cluster on some of these -trees, when they can be conveniently gathered in the -Controllable Hive.</p> - -<p>In hiving, if the bees have clustered on some one of -the trees set for them, place the Controllable Hive on the -stand it is to occupy, allowing the stand to project two -feet in front of the hive. Draw back the bottom board -under the brood section ten or fifteen inches, to give the -bees a good chance to enter the hive. <i>Shade the hive well.</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span> -Now go to the tree on which your swarm is clustered. -Remove the stone or piece of wood that holds it in place; -lift the tree, carefully avoiding any jar, carry it to the hive, -and hold the cluster down to the stand and close up to -the hive, <i>as near the entrance as possible</i>. Then give the -tree a sudden jar, sufficient to dislodge the cluster of bees. -They will fall directly at the entrance of the hive, and -immediately commence to enter. Sprinkle <i>lightly</i> with -water, and <i>gently</i> disturb those that stop about the -entrance, with a quill or brush, till all are made to enter -the hive. Then slide the bottom board forward to its -place and the work is done.</p> - -<p>Should the bees cluster on some large tree or other out -of the way place, the manner of hiving must be varied. -Set your hive near by with a wide board in front to keep -the bees out of the grass and dirt. Arrange the hive as -before directed. If the bees are clustered on a small -limb, high above your reach, secure a basket to a pole, -and raise it directly beneath the cluster. Dislodge the -bees from their position, when they will fall directly -into the basket, which you should take down quickly and -shake the bees from it down to the entrance to the hive, -and proceed as before. Keep the limb on which they were -clustered in motion for a few minutes, to prevent their -return. Should they cluster on the body of a tree, or a -large limb, where they cannot be shaken off, set your -hive near by, as before directed, and with a handled dipper -dip them off and turn them down in front of the hive near -the entrance. Dip <i>very carefully</i>, so as not to crush any -of the bees. They will not attempt to sting if you treat -them well, and prove to them that you are their friend. -After you have dipped off a portion of the bees, and got -them moving into the hive, if the queen is with them, -they will all leave the cluster and join their companions -who are entering their new home. But if the queen -remains with the cluster, as soon as those entering the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span> -hive discover that she is not with them, they will leave -the hive and rejoin the cluster. So it is well to keep -dipping as long as you can get any of the bees, or till -you are <i>certain</i> the bees are leaving the cluster and entering -the hive of their own accord.</p> - -<p>It sometimes happens in natural swarming, that when -a swarm issues, led by the <i>old</i> queen, which has occupied -the hive for a year or more, that she finds herself unable -to fly, and drops down in front of the hive. In this case, -if left to themselves, the bees, after flying about for perhaps -five or ten minutes, will return to the hive from -whence they came, and remain until the young queens -hatch, issuing again, about the time a second swarm -would have come out, or perhaps a little earlier.</p> - -<p>If you are on hand you can prevent the swarm returning, -but you must be lively. If you find the bees are -flying longer than usual without clustering, and appear -scattered and disorganized in their movements, look in -front of the hive from which they issued, for the queen. -You will probably find her within two or three feet of -the hive. Put her in a tumbler, and cover closely, to -prevent her escape. As soon as you find the bees have -commenced to return to the old hive, set it back out of -the way, and throw a sheet or some other covering over it.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> -Then set your Controllable Hive in its place, with the -bottom board drawn back as directed in hiving a new -swarm. Set the tumbler containing the queen over the -brood section, so the confined queen can pass down into -the hive, but leaving no chance for her to escape by any -other way. The bees will then enter the hive readily. -And as soon as all are in, which will be in a few minutes, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span> -remove the hive to a new stand and shade as directed -before. Set the old stock back in its former place.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> If other hives are near, on each side, it will be well to throw the -covering over them also, to prevent the swarm entering any other -than the designed hive, as they might possibly do, if the hives -were only a few feet distant.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The foregoing circumstance often happens when bees -are managed on the old swarming plan, and queens that -are unable to fly are usually very old. On my plan of -management such cases are of rare occurrence.</p> - -<p>Natural swarms usually issue between nine o'clock in -the forenoon, and one o'clock in the afternoon. -Occasionally one will issue earlier in the forenoon or -later in the afternoon; but as a general rule they make -their appearance between the hours specified.</p> - -<p>Very early swarms hived in Controllable Hives should -have access to the boxes on one side only. In about ten -days after being hived, and as soon as the bees are well at -work in these, give them access to the other side. -Swarms that are hived late in the season, will not require -boxes, until the next season, as it is necessary to have -the brood section filled, or nearly filled, before the bees -have access to the boxes.</p> - -<p>It is important that we have the combs in the brood -section built <i>straight in the frames</i>, so as to be easily -lifted out <i>separately</i>. To aid in securing this object, -when a swarm is first hived in a controllable hive, raise -the rear of the hive four inches, by putting under it a -piece of joist, having the hive perfectly level from side to -side. This gives the frames a pitch forward, and will -greatly aid in securing straight combs. Let the hive remain -in this position for a week or ten days, then set it -down level. If you have it to spare, one frame filled -with comb placed in the brood section near the center will -insure straight combs in the balance. If no precaution is -taken in this direction, the bees will <i>sometimes</i> build the -comb crosswise of the brood section, notwithstanding the -triangular comb guides in the frames of each controllable -hive. As straight combs in the brood section are very -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span> -important, we should employ every available means to -aid in securing them.</p> - -<p>It is well to keep on hand a few plain boxes, each with -four movable frames, like those in the controllable hive. -If at any time a swarm comes out at the <i>very last of the -honey season</i>, hive them in one of these boxes. They -will probably enlarge or quite fill the four frames with -comb, and perhaps store a little honey. Then, in the fall, -put these four frames, with the bees and comb, in a controllable -hive, and add two frames, well filled with honey, -from a stock that can spare it. In this way you will -build up a good stock for winter, whereas if you had -hived them in a full sized controllable hive so late in the -season, they would probably have put a little comb in -each of the six frames, but not enough to winter, rendering -it necessary for you to feed with the liquid feed in -the fall. It is better to have four frames nearly or quite -filled with comb, than to have six frames with a very -little comb in each.</p> - -<p>It sometimes happens that a swarm of bees, which has -worked well in boxes through the entire honey season, -will swarm out about the time the yield of honey ceases. -If managed on the old plan, such swarms are <i>worthless</i>, -but by hiving them in a box with four movable frames, -as directed, they make valuable stocks. All such swarms -may be returned to the old stock, as directed in another -chapter, yet we sometimes wish to increase the number -of our stocks to the utmost, and it is convenient to know -how to make valuable stock of these late issues. Then they -can either be returned or hived, whichever the bee keeper -thinks is most for his or her interest.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ANGER OF BEES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">T</span>HE anger of bees, when once thoroughly -aroused, is much to be dreaded, as the -results which follow are often of a very -serious nature. In my own case, I can handle bees with -perfect impunity. They rarely make any attempt to -sting, no matter what liberties I take with them. I -always intend to be very careful, and handle them gently, -making them understand that I do not mean to harm -them. In my first efforts in handling bees they were -very apt to sting me, for the reason that I did not understand -their nature; consequently they mistook my -intentions, and often forced me to seek shelter from their -attacks. Now I seldom use any protection when working -among them. Often, in transferring the bees and comb -from the old box hive to the Controllable Hive, I roll up -my sleeves, and with no protection whatever, for the -hands or face, cut out the comb from the old hive, with -the bees adhering to it, and arrange and fasten it in the -new hive, without the bees making any attempt to sting -me.</p> - -<p>I would not recommend any one to do this, until they -are so well acquainted with, and accustomed to handling, -the bees, as to understand perfectly their every characteristic, -and be quite certain that they will not make an -attack. It is better to protect the hands and face from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span> -their attacks, as you will thus feel greater confidence in -yourself, and can perform all operations without fear of -stings. It is well to understand what will arouse the -anger of bees, and cause them to sting. If we breathe -upon them, when they are in or about the hive or boxes, -they deem it an insult, and will dash at and sting us at -once. Any sudden jar of the hive is instantly resented. -All quick, spiteful motions about the hive, such as running, -jumping, etc., is noticed, and quite sure to be followed -by a sting. The finger pointed at them with a -quick, spiteful motion when they are standing as sentinels -about the entrance of the hive, often provokes stings. If -they come buzzing around, threatening to sting, perhaps -striking your hat almost like a bullet, and should you -return the compliment by striking at them with your -hand, they will be quite sure to sting you. The better -way is, if unprotected, to hold down your head so as to -protect your face, and move away from the hive as -quietly as possible. When the bees find you are retreating, -they will not follow you far. Always remember that if -one bee stings you, others are very sure to <i>immediately</i> -follow, unless you retreat. I believe that bees have a -language by which they make known to each other their -wants and wishes; and I feel certain they know those -who have the care of them, and become accustomed to -the motions and appearance of those who are seen by -them daily.</p> - -<p>The members of my family are seldom stung by the -bees, notwithstanding I sometimes have fifty hives or -more where we pass within twenty feet of them many -times a day, while the bees are flying in thousands about -each hive. In the middle of the day, in the honey season, -the air for many rods about the hives is full of bees. I -find my bees are much more likely to attack strangers -who come to see them, than members of the family.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Subdue the Anger of Bees.</span></h3> - -<p>I have tested every means recommended for subduing -the anger of bees, and have found tobacco smoke the -thing, when rightly applied.</p> - -<p>Have a tin-worker make you a tin tube, one inch in -diameter, six inches long, and fit stoppers of soft wood -closely in each end, two and three inches long respectively, -with a hole through each, one-fourth inch in diameter. -Fit one end of the longer stopper to hold in the mouth. -Before placing the shorter piece in the tube, cover the -inside end with wire cloth, bent a little convex, to prevent -the ashes and tobacco filling the quarter-inch orifice. -Taper the outer end of the short piece nearly to a point. -Remove the mouth-piece, and fill the tube nearly full of -tobacco (cigars are best, for they burn freely.) Dip with -live embers, replace the mouth-piece and blow the smoke -from the pointed end.</p> - -<p>With this instrument smoke may be forced among the -bees in any part of the hive or boxes. <i>In all operations -likely to arouse the anger of the bees</i>, as taking off and -putting on boxes, lifting out comb frames, putting on -and taking off feeder, removing the honey board, examining -the rearing boxes in queen raising, etc., smoke the -hive well. In-short, use smoke <i>freely</i> when about to perform -any operation upon the bees. Before touching the -hive give the bees two or three smart puffs at each entrance -of the hive; then commence your operations immediately. -If the honey board is over the brood section, and your -operations are to be performed in that part of the hive, -raise the board just enough to puff in the smoke, but not -enough for the bees to come out. Give them the smoke -here freely for about one minute, before you remove the -board. They will show their submission by a loud humming -throughout the hive. When they set up this humming -noise is the time to proceed with your work. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span> -Remove the honey board entirely, keeping the smoker at -hand ready for use, and giving them a puff of smoke -occasionally <i>to keep them under submission</i>.</p> - -<p>It is best for the inexperienced bee raiser to protect the -hands and face in all operations, at least until he feels -perfect confidence in his ability to avoid irritating the -bees sufficiently to cause them to sting. To protect the -hands, wear thick woolen mittens, with very long wrists, -so they will come up over the dress or coat sleeve, thus -protecting the hands and wrists completely from stings. -To protect the face and neck, get coarse black lace, one-half -yard wide and a yard and a quarter in length. Take -three-fourths of this piece for the front breadth, and the -balance for the back breadth. Seam together at the -selvedges, and gather the upper edge on an elastic cord so -as to fit closely, and draw around the crown of the hat -When putting on the hat ready for use, leave the longer -part in front, to button beneath the coat or vest of a gentleman -or the sack of a lady. At the back the lace tucks -beneath the collar. Thus protected, we are perfectly safe -from stings, and can see as well, and perform all operations -nearly as well, as when uncovered.</p> - -<p>The best antidote for stings is the application of water -in which salt has been dissolved—a heaping teaspoonful -of salt to a teacupful of water. Bathe the affected part -freely, and in severe cases take a swallow of the salt and -water into the stomach. Avoid rubbing or irritating the -stung part. Be sure to extract the sting immediately, -as the longer it remains the more serious will be the -consequences.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE BEE MOTH.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">I</span>N some localities the bee moth is said to be very -destructive, yet I regard the depredations of this -insect as much less to be feared than some bee-keepers -suppose. The bee moth is the agency -provided by nature for returning back to the earth the -contents of any hive when left by the bees, in the same -manner that the flesh fly is the means provided for -returning to the earth the carcase of any animal.</p> - -<p>I do not believe that a strong, healthy stock of bees was -ever attacked and destroyed by the bee moth. The stock -must from some cause become reduced in numbers, so -there are not bees enough to cover all the comb, before -the moth will make an attack. But when the comb is -unprotected, the moth follows the instinct of its nature, -and deposits her eggs in it. The bees from some cause -keep decreasing, and the moth continues depositing her -eggs in the vacated comb, until the entire comb of the -hive is a complete mass of vile worms, the progeny of -the bee moth.</p> - -<p>About this time the bee keeper notices for the first -time, (for, if he is keeping bees on the old plan, he lets -them take their own course, believing if he meddles with -them, they will "run out,") that something is wrong -with that hive. So he examines them, and finds the -combs a mass of webs, with hundreds of moth millers -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span> -among the combs, and the combs themselves filled with -vile worms. "Ah!" he says, "the bee moth has destroyed -that swarm of bees;" when in fact the bee moth had no -more to do with bringing about the loss than the maggots, -found in the carcase of a nice lamb destroyed by -dogs, had to do with destroying the life of the animal. -"Oh," says some wise bee keeper, "I know better than -that, for I have seen the bee moth flying about my hives -and trying to get in." Very well; I have seen the flesh fly -circling about live animals, but think you there was any -danger from them, as long as the animal was in health? -Not a bit. Neither is there any danger from the bee moth, -if you keep your stocks of bees <i>strong and healthy</i>. But -if you have weak or diseased stock, or have honey in -boxes in warm weather <i>unprotected by the bees</i>, look out -for the bee moth.</p> - -<p>Fumigate with sulphur all combs taken from hives in -warm weather; immediately after which, seal up closely -in well-made hives or boxes, to prevent access by the -moth miller. All combs taken out <i>late in the fall</i>, and -kept through the winter in a place where they will be -liable to freeze, may be sealed up so the moth cannot -gain access to them, and the contents will keep safely -through the next summer. Freezing destroys the vitality -of the moth eggs. Fumigating with sulphur, as -directed in "Care of Box Honey in Warm Weather," -will destroy the <i>moth worms</i>, and prevent damage -to the combs, if they receive attention within a few -days after the eggs are hatched; but if the worms are -suffered to remain for any considerable length of time, -the combs will be badly damaged, if not entirely ruined. -In protecting honey or empty comb from the bee moth in -warm weather, every bee keeper should recollect that -eternal vigilance is the price of success! With the Controllable -Hive and new system of bee management, the -true condition of stocks is known at all times. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span> -stocks are very populous in July and August, which is -the time the bee moth is most numerous about the hives. -I never had a stock damaged by the bee moth since I -adopted my present system of bee management.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 186px;"> - <img src="images/rabbits_28.png" width="186" height="148" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ROBBING.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 72px;"> - <img src="images/text_l.png" width="72" height="75" alt="L" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">L</span>OSS of stocks by robbing shows carelessness, -or a lack of knowledge as to the proper care -of bees. Not one strong, healthy stock of bees -in a thousand will be robbed, if proper precaution -is taken. During a copious yield of honey there is very -little danger of robbing. When there is a slack in the -yield, the bees will search about for plunder, and if a -weak stock is found, they will be very likely to attack it.</p> - -<p>It is the duty of every intelligent bee-keeper to know -the exact condition of his stocks at all times, and if from -any cause he has a weak stock, be sure to ascertain the -cause of their weakness, and if they are healthy stocks, -contract the entrances, in accordance with the number -of bees to pass. But if they are found to be diseased, remove -them. The bee, like the human race, is much better -able to defend itself against the attacks of an enemy when -there is but one avenue of approach, than if there are -several.</p> - -<p>No refuse honey should be placed in the open air, -accessible to all the bees alike, as this would be very -likely to create a desire for plunder, and incite robbing.</p> - -<p>Never, when a stock is being robbed, change it from -one stand to another a few rods distant, to prevent robbing; -for this is a very great injury to the stock, as all the -bees that have marked the location (at the season when -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span> -robbing will most likely occur,) will return to the old -stand, and be lost. The best remedy, or rather preventative -against robbing, is to contract the entrances to the -hive. After bees have once commenced robbing, and -have been successful in capturing and plundering one -stock, they will, as soon as they have secured the honey -from that one, attack some other with great impetuosity. -Success in plundering renders them very courageous; but -if you have contracted the entrances as directed, they -will be very likely to meet their match, and learn a good -lesson. A little punishment is necessary to teach them -their proper place.</p> - -<p>I knew one of these old wise-heads—such a one as -spoken of in the chapter on "Swarming and Hiving"—to -use his familiar logic: "What he didn't know about -bees wasn't worth knowing. He didn't want any book -larnin' to know how to keep bees; he had allers kept 'em, -and his father before him." Well, this Mr. Wiseman -found, or thought he had found, that his neighbor's bees -were robbing his stocks. "Zounds!" says he, "I'll fix -'em!" So he goes early in the morning, before the bees -are flying, and confines his stock, which he thought was -being robbed, by nailing a piece of board closely over -each entrance to the hive, so no bees could pass in or out. -About sunrise; or a little later, the robber bees begin to -collect on the front of his hive, seeking to gain access. -He waits until a quart or more have collected, and then -he takes two or three quarts of boiling water, and dashes -it upon them. This he continues through that day, and -the next, at intervals, as often as there are any bees collected -on the front of his hive. During this time he has -killed more than <i>a half bushel of bees</i>. The third day -he opens his hive, but to his great surprise, <i>no bees -appear</i>, and on examination he finds the bees all dead. -They had <i>suffocated</i>. Want of air, and the boiling water -upon the hive, had destroyed them. And to crown all, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span> -and make his loss still more severe, he found it was his -own bees that were engaged in plundering his stock, -and his neighbor's bees had nothing to do with it. The -vast number of bees slaughtered with the hot water, so -reduced in numbers several of his stocks, that they never -recovered, but fell prey to the moth miller that season. -And that was the way he "fixed 'em." There are so many -whims and false notions about bees, that great care -should be exercised in adopting plans recommended by -inexperienced bee keepers, or that class who claim to -know everything about bees, yet by their practice show -that they know very little.</p> - -<p>There is one other plan, aside from contracting the -entrance, which will prove successful, but which is a -little more trouble to apply. If you find a stock is being -robbed, look them over, and be sure that they have a -fertile, healthy queen. If the queen is found to be all -right, but with few bees, take from this hive two comb -frames filled with comb, <i>with no eggs or brood</i>, and go to -a populous stock, and exchange these two combs for two -others filled with brood. Select such as have most of -the brood sealed over, as you want that which will hatch -the quickest. Put these two combs in the hive that is -being robbed, fasten up the stock by putting wire cloth -over the entrances, giving them air yet preventing the -passage of bees.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> It is well to confine the bees when a large number of robbers -are inside—a larger number if possible than the swarm itself, for, -being confined a few days, they will make that hive their home, -and aid in defending its stores against other robbers with as -much energy as the bees of the original swarm.</p> - -</div> - -<p>When you put in the two frames with -brood, if you find but little honey in the hive—not enough -to last the bees a month or more—put in one frame containing -honey. Put on the feeder and carry the hive to a -dark and quiet room, and fill the feeder with <i>pure, soft -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span> -water</i>. Let the bees remain in this room four days; then -about one hour before sunset, set them on the old stand, -giving them their liberty, with the entrances to the hive -contracted—the lower entrance closed entirely, and the -upper one half closed. Intelligent bee keepers will -readily understand why this plan should prove a success:—First, -the bees that hatch from the brood comb -given the weak stock, will be a great encouragement to -the few bees in the hive; and in a <i>very few days</i> they will -aid in defending the hive against the attacks of robbers. -Again—removing the hive from the stand seems to disorganize -the robbers, for after they have visited the stand -for several days, and find no plunder, they will give up -the search in that direction.</p> - -<p>Before taking the trouble to remove a hive as here -directed, care should be taken to be <i>certain</i> that the bees -are being robbed. You can be sure whether it is your own -bees or others that are robbing, by sprinkling them with -flour as they come from the hive which you suspect is -being robbed, and watching your other hives, to see if -those you have marked enter them, being very careful -that you are not deceived by the dust from some species -of blossoms, which adheres to the body of the bee, and -might be mistaken for the flour.</p> - -<p>Bees when plundering a stock will often keep at their -work until dark, some of them being unable to find their -hive by reason of the darkness. Honest workers are not -found abroad at that time, and, by the way, this is a very -good test of robbing. In concluding this chapter, I -advise again: <i>Know the condition of your stocks at all -times.</i> If any have too few bees, contract the entrances -in accordance with that number of bees to pass. Preventative -is much better than cure in this case.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">PROFITS OF BEE KEEPING.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">T</span>WENTY-FIVE years ago, and even at the -present time, by the ordinary methods of -bee keeping, if a profit of five dollars from -one hive of bees in one season was gained it was considered -"good luck." You know there is no system in the ordinary -methods of bee keeping. It is either "good luck" or -"bad luck;"—all "luck" and "chance," anyway.</p> - -<p>In one year they get five dollars profit from a stock of -bees; the next honey season they get nothing, and the -bees all die in the winter; or perhaps they will survive -that winter, and the next season swarm, and fly away to -the woods; or perhaps refuse to swarm, and remain idly -clustered on the front of the hive throughout the entire -honey season, and die from want of food before the -winter is half gone.</p> - -<p>Bee keeping by the ordinary methods is a very precarious -and uncertain occupation. The profits are small -at best, and losses large and frequent.</p> - -<p>With my Controllable Hive and common sense system -of bee management (as described in this work,) founded -on correct and scientific principles, bee keeping is reduced -to a science. There is no "luck," no "guess-work," no -"chance" about it. There can be no loss in bee keeping -without a cause; there can be no gain without a <i>full and -correct</i> understanding of the natural habits and requirements -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span> -of bees. A <i>correct knowledge</i> of the subject insures -success.</p> - -<p>I will now present a few statements, exhibiting the -practical results which follow the use of my Controllable -Hive and new system of bee management, and showing -the great contrast in profits and general success in the -care of bees.</p> - -<p>In the season of 1870, one of my hives of native bees -yielded two hundred and fifty-three pounds of surplus -honey, in glass boxes, from the 20th of May to the 1st of -July. In 1875 <i>one hive yielded three hundred and eighty -pounds of surplus honey in glass boxes during the season</i>. -This was the largest yield I ever had, and shows what is -possible by liberal feeding with a thrifty stock of bees, -giving them every facility, with a view of securing the -largest possible amount of surplus box honey. In this -case, I selected, in early spring, the very best stock I -could find, and pushed it as hard as possible throughout -the entire spring, summer and early fall. My success -exceeded even my most sanguine expectations. -As it may serve to aid others in producing large yields -of honey, I will describe minutely the method pursued to -secure this large and extraordinary yield.</p> - -<p>Very early in the spring I selected the most populous -stock in my possession. It was ruled by a young -and exceedingly prolific Hybrid queen, a mixture of -Italian and Native blood. I commenced early in the -spring to feed this stock lightly but <i>regularly</i>, every day -at evening. I fed about one-half pound of feed per day, -until a few days before the flowers were in bloom profusely! -This was done to encourage breeding. Very -early in the spring they were fed com and rye meal, as -directed in this work.</p> - -<p>For a few days before the flowers were blooming profusely, -I fed liberally—in fact, gave them all I could -possibly induce them to take up; the object being to get -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span> -the store comb in the body of the hive, not occupied with -brood, completely filled with honey. The glass boxes, -twenty-six in number (with the Feeder,) each holding -about four and one-half pounds of honey, were arranged -in connection with the hive (sides and top,) several weeks -prior to the appearance of the flowers, that the bees -might become accustomed to them, and the more readily -enter them, and commence work. When I ceased feeding -(which was on the appearance of the flowers yielding a -good supply of honey,) the boxes were filled with bees, -and comb-building had commenced. The hive was at -this time filled to overflowing with bees, and the combs -had brood in all stages of growth, from the egg to the -perfect bee. I had taken the precaution to cut out nearly -all the drone comb, and fit in its place worker comb, so -I had but very few drones to consume the honey. I had -also arranged so as to have no increase by swarming, -but to have all the bees employed storing surplus honey -in the boxes throughout the season.</p> - -<p>As fast as the boxes were filled, they were removed, -and empty ones substituted in their place. I never saw -bees work with such determined industry, early and late, -and in all kinds of weather. When honey failed at the -end of the season, there was a set of boxes on the -hive partially filled. I immediately gave the bees feed -until these too were finished. I found, on weighing the -product of this hive in the fall, that they had given me a -fraction over three hundred and eighty pounds of surplus -honey in boxes. This honey I sold at thirty-five cents a -pound, a little over one hundred and thirty-three dollars, -for surplus honey sold from this one stock. Reader, go -thou and do likewise.</p> - -<p>I had one stock of bees which occupied the same stand, -winter and summer, for six years, and during that time -they swarmed but once, and from it I sold every year -over fifty dollars' worth of surplus honey in glass boxes. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span> -A neighbor several times offered me fifty dollars for this -stock, early in the spring before the bees commenced -their labors.</p> - -<p>In 1874 I purchased a swarm of bees in an old box -hive. They had not paid their owner a dollar in profit for -years. Some seasons they would swarm and fly away to -the woods; in other seasons they would remain clustered -on the front of the hive through the entire season, refusing -to swarm, or enter the two small boxes covered with -a cap on top of the hive. I transferred the bees from -this hive to the Controllable Hive, and they gave me a -profit of over forty dollars the first year.</p> - -<p>I sold my honey in 1874 for from thirty-three to thirty-five -dollars per hundred gross weight—that is, no tare -deducted for weight of the box. The boxes weigh each -about one pound, empty, and when well filled with honey -about four and one-half pounds, gross.</p> - -<p>The present season (1880.) one stock in a Controllable -Hive, in the month of June, without being fed or having -extra care, yielded seventy-two pounds of surplus honey -in glass boxes. Another, treated in the same manner, -yielded over eighty pounds surplus, in the same time. -Another new swarm, since the first week in June, filled -the brood frames with honey, and produced thirty-eight -pounds of surplus in glass boxes, (filling eight boxes as -full as they could be crowded,) and gave me a large -swarm the last week in June.</p> - -<p>When box honey brings from thirty-three to thirty-five -cents a pound, <i>gross weight</i>, my usual yearly average is -a little over fifty dollars clean profit from the sale of -box honey, from each stock of bees I keep. I intend to -keep about twelve stocks each season. I sometimes -have a much greater number; yet it is my purpose -to keep only this number each season, for the -production of surplus honey, swarms, etc. My average -yield of surplus box honey is about two hundred pounds -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span> -(perhaps a trifle less) from each hive of bees that I keep, -during each season, <i>when swarming is prevented and each -stock liberally fed</i>.</p> - -<p>I will here give the testimony of a few of the many, -who have adopted the plan of bee management recommended -in this work. I should give the name and post-office -address of each, were it not for the fact that they -would receive so many letters of inquiry, as to make it -very disagreeable to them. <i>I have the original and complete -letters in my possession, and such letters I am prepared -to show at any time.</i> My object in presenting this -testimony here, is to show that the system of bee management -recommended herein is not only successful with -me, but with all intelligent bee keepers, as well.</p> - -<p>A gentleman from Vermont writes me, under date of -September 15, 1879, as follows: "I take this opportunity -of informing you of the experience I have had with -the bee hive received from you. About the 10th of May -I transferred a swarm of bees from a box hive to the Controllable -Hive. I transferred all the brood combs, and -about eight or ten pounds of honey. I fed them until -flowers were plenty, which encouraged them to build -rapidly. About the 25th of May I put in surplus boxes -on the sides, which they soon entered, and went to work. -The middle of June I put boxes on top, as the bees showed -symptoms of swarming. By the 10th of July the side -boxes were nearly all filled, and the bees were at work in -the top boxes. July 15th I took off sixteen of the twenty -side boxes, well filled and capped, and placed empty -ones in their places. August 5th, I took six of the ten -boxes off the top, well filled. Then the dry weather set -in, and the bees came to a stand-still (thinking the honey -season over,) but the basswood revived it for a short -time, enabling them to fill up the boxes pretty full. I -obtained in all from this swarm twenty-eight boxes, -weighing one hundred and ten pounds. I shall have ten -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">- 71 -</span> -hives made this winter for use the coming spring."</p> - -<p>A gentleman writes from New York, under date of -April 2d, 1879: "I have received your hive, which meets -my ideas of what a bee hive should be. It contains all -that is required in a bee hive, or in other words it is just -the thing I have been wanting. I have been using the -Quinby hive, so called, but I am now going to keep bees -in earnest on your plan. I have the fullest confidence of -success with your hive and plan of management. Your -plan for wintering is a good one, on scientific principles, -and the arrangement for feeding, and surplus honey, -can't be beat."</p> - -<p>A gentleman writes from New Hampshire, under date -of April 26th, 1879: "I have tested your hive, and my -bees have done first-rate. I believe the hive is just what -it is represented. One strong reason why I think so much -of your hive is, there were not a dozen bees died in the -hive last winter, while three of my first swarms in other -hives all died—some of them with fifty pounds of honey -in the hive. I have lost some winters as many as fifteen -or twenty swarms. I have now tested your hive to my -satisfaction, and I do not believe bees will die in it, if -your instructions for wintering are carried out. I think -your hive is what every bee keeper should have to make -a success of bee keeping."</p> - -<p>A gentleman writes from Missouri, under date of May -1st, 1879: "Your bee hive I like very much. I put in -the swarm last season. They did much better than any -swarm I had in the American hive. I took away more -surplus honey than from any of the others. I can recommend -the Controllable Hive to all bee keepers. This -spring I have put up fourteen more Controllable Hives, -and shall use no other hive in future."</p> - -<p>A lady bought a swarm of Italian bees of me in 1874, -and from that one stock she increased to over twenty the -third season, besides obtaining over one hundred pounds -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">- 72 -</span> -of nice surplus honey from the swarm I sent her in the -first season.</p> - -<p>Here I desire to be clearly understood. I do not wish -to hold out inducements which will never be realized, for -the purpose of causing any one to commence bee keeping -with unreasonable expectations of profit. There is labor -and care required to bring success in any enterprise; and -usually the greater the care and labor bestowed on any -business, the greater the reward in profits. Bees give -ample return for each little care and attention bestowed -upon them; and if neglected and permitted to go uncared -for, there is corresponding loss. I believe that bee keeping -on correct and scientific principles should be -encouraged, until bees enough are kept to collect the -honey now allowed to go to waste, and which, if collected, -would add millions of dollars to the wealth of the -country.</p> - -<p>The statements of large yields of honey here presented, -show what it is possible to do; yet no reasonable person -would commence bee keeping with the expectation of -realizing, on each of a dozen or more stocks kept, the -large yields above specified. Some stocks will pay a -much greater profit than others. And it is only under -the most favorable circumstances, with our very best -stocks, that we secure the results here named, such as -three hundred and eighty pounds of box honey from one -stock in a season This serves to illustrate what may be -derived (but not what we may reasonably expect) from -each stock, where a dozen or more stocks are kept. Two -hundred pounds from each stock on the average is about -right. And this last is only secured with good care and -attention, perseverance and labor, judiciously applied to -the work.</p> - -<p>The question is often asked: "How many stocks of bees -can be kept in one place on your plan?" This depends -on the number of honey-yielding plants and flowers. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">- 73 -</span> -Some localities furnish a much greater number than others. -In some localities, fifty stocks would do well, and pay -yearly a handsome profit; in others, it would not be -profitable to keep half as many. I am in a place said -to be very unfavorable to bee keeping. I find twelve -stocks about the right number for me to maintain. Bees -will go seven miles or more to collect honey, but the -shorter the distance, the more honey will be collected, in -a season; consequently the greater profit will follow.</p> - -<p>It can only be learned by practical test how many -stocks of bees may be profitably kept in any locality. -Commence with a few, and increase the number moderately, -until you find you have as many as you wish to -keep, or as many as the locality will support, with good -profit, when managed judiciously.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 186px;"> - <img src="images/rabbits_28.png" width="186" height="148" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">- 74 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">CHANGING OLD QUEENS FOR YOUNG ONES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 80px;"> - <img src="images/text_o.png" width="80" height="76" alt="O" /> -</div> - -<p class="smaller"><span class="hidden">O</span>N my plan of bee management, if a -stock does not change its queen for three -years in succession, the fourth season the -old queen should be taken away, if she shows the least -sign of failing, and a young, laying queen substituted in -her place It often happens, if the queen in a stock dies -or becomes seriously injured, that the bees will, of their -own accord, rear another to take her place. But if her -failure has been gradual, the bees may not have the means -to do so, when she at last fails entirely, for the reason -that she may cease laying, for several days or weeks previous -to her death, in which case it would be impossible -for the bees, without assistance, to rear another queen to -take her place. They must have an egg not over -five days old, from which to rear a queen. The great -necessity of close observation, in order to keep each stock -always supplied with a healthy, prolific queen, cannot be -impressed too strongly on the mind of every bee keeper. -Be sure not to neglect this very important point in successful -and profitable bee keeping.</p> - -<p>But very few seem to know the average duration of -life of the honey bee. The average term of life of the -worker is only a few months—not more than from two -to four—a great many do not live out half that time. So -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">- 75 -</span> -it will be seen that it is only by keeping healthy and prolific -queens in each stock, that we can have populous -stocks, such as will pay a good profit.</p> - -<p>In my experiments I have in several instances taken -from a vigorous and very populous stock their queen, -and at the same time deprived them of the means of -rearing another. This was done in the honey season. -In such cases the bees kept on with their labor, though -with visible reluctance and an appearance of discouragement, -the number of bees decreasing very rapidly, and in -from two to three months nearly all had disappeared, not -more than two or three hundred remaining, where there -had been from thirty thousand to fifty thousand all in a -prosperous condition.</p> - -<p>Other instances have come under my observation, clearly -showing that the life of the worker honey bee is only -of few months duration. One case in fact will show: I -removed the native queen from a very strong stock of -native or black bees, in the honey season, and introduced -an Italian queen, in order to change the stock from native -to Italian. The reader will readily understand that every -egg deposited by the Italian queen, after her introduction, -will produce the Italian variety, the workers of which -are entirely distinct in color from the natives. In a few -days after the introduction of the Italian queen I found -the natives were disappearing, and soon after the Italians -began to appear. The change was very rapid. In about -two months not a native or black bee could be found -about the hive—all were Italians. The natives had gradually -decreased, until all had disappeared, showing conclusively -that they had died in the same ratio that they -would have passed away from a stock naturally. During -the winter season, as the bee is in a dormant state for the -greater part of the time, they are given a longer lease of -life.</p> - -<p>When it is discovered that a stock has a barren queen -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">- 76 -</span> -or has lost its queen, or from any cause she has ceased -to be prolific (and in consequence the bees are dwindling -away,) take means immediately to substitute a prolific -and healthy queen in her place, and at the same time -re-enforce the stock, by taking one or more frames filled -with hatching brood from a populous stock, and exchanging -for those destitute of brood. In this manner the bees -will be increased so as to insure safety for a few days, -after which the stock, having been furnished with a prolific, -healthy queen, will regain their former prosperity and -vigor.</p> - -<p>The queen being the mother of the entire swarm, and -consequently all increase being dependent on her, every -intelligent bee keeper will readily understand that in -order to succeed, he must be sure that each stock has a -prolific queen.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/fan.png" width="108" height="100" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">- 77 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">REARING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">I</span>N commencing to rear queens, you will first -want some small rearing boxes, or miniature -hives, about four and one-half inches wide, by -eight inches long, and five inches deep, inside measurement. -Use inch board for the hives. Make for each hive -three movable comb frames,<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> suspended the same as in -the brood section of the Controllable Hive. Make the -under side of the top bar, flat, instead of triangular, as in -the large comb frames. Take a piece of old comb, and -cut to fill each one of these small frames. Take from a -pint to a quart of bees from a populous stock (in the -height of the breeding season this will do no harm) without -the queen-. Confine these bees in a light box, in the -top of which there is an inch hole, closed, to confine -them to the box, for if not confined they would return to -the old stock, as the queen is not with them. Having -secured your bees in the box, go to a stock, and lift out a -comb containing eggs, just deposited. They may be -known by their appearance. They are but a tiny speck at -the bottom of the cell, about one-sixteenth of an inch in -length, slightly curved, and perfectly white in color. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">- 78 -</span> -They remain in this form from two to three days, at the -end of which time they change to the form of a grub or -maggot. After this change it is a risk to depend on them -for queen raising, so be sure to secure for your purpose -eggs. Cut from the brood comb a piece about two inches -long and one-half inch wide, using a very sharp, thin -knife, so not to mutilate the comb. Cut out a piece from -the center comb of the miniature hive, and fit in its place -the piece containing the eggs. The middle of a warm -day is the best time to do this work. It is best to have -one of the comb frames of the miniature hive filled with -honey, to furnish food for the bees for a few days.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> This frame is shown in the engraving representing the different -kinds of cells, in <a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I</a>.</p> - -</div> - -<p>As soon as you have fitted the piece containing the -eggs in its place in the miniature hive, put on a close-fitting -cover. Do not nail it, as you will want to look -at it every few days. Close the entrances to the miniature -hive, so no bees can escape. Now open the hole in the -top of the box in which the bees are confined, and set the -miniature hive containing the eggs over it quickly, allowing -no bees to escape. The bees will then pass from the -box up into the miniature hive, cluster on the comb containing -the eggs, and immediately commence the rearing -of queens from the eggs thus furnished them. Keep the -bees confined to the miniature hive for about thirty-six -hours. Give them their liberty at first about one hour -before sunset. If you do not confine them for the time -stated, they will return to the hive from which you took -them, but if so confined, they will forget their old home, -and adhere to the miniature hive, the same as an ordinary -swarm hived in the usual way. They will rear queens -from the eggs given them by constructing queen cells, so -arranged as to take in one of the eggs in the piece of -comb furnished them, often constructing three or more -cells. In about six days, open the miniature hive, and -you will find these cells nearly or quite finished. -Occasionally a case occurs where they do not rear queens -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">- 79 -</span> -when thus furnished with the means, but such cases are -rare. If you find each one made separate, you can, if -you choose, with a sharp, thin knife cut out all the cells -but one, and give them to other rearing boxes not supplied -with eggs, or which have failed to rear queens from the -eggs furnished them. If you leave all the cells in the -miniature hive as constructed, the first queen that hatches -will destroy all the others. She will visit each cell, gnaw -an opening in the side, curve her abdomen and insert -her sting into the opening, and sting the rival queen to -death while yet in her cradle. The worker bees will then -enlarge the opening, and drag out the lifeless body. The -victorious queen now reigns over the little colony, the same -as in a large and natural swarm.</p> - -<p>In from three to five days after hatching, if the -weather is fine, the young queen will leave the miniature -hive, and take a flight in the open air, to meet the drone -for the purpose of fecundation. If successful, she will -commence to lay in about two days. She may then be -introduced to a full stock at any time desired. Recollect, -it will be useless to rear queens where there are no drones.</p> - -<p>When stocks are liberally fed early in the season, drones -will appear correspondingly early. And if from a stock -well supplied with drones, you remove the queen, the -workers will not destroy the drones in that hive until -they have obtained another fertile laying queen. With -this idea in view, viz:—early and liberal feeding to produce -drones early, and depriving a populous stock (well -supplied with drones) of its queen the last of the season, -we can have drones sufficient for our purpose from early -spring until late in the fall.</p> - -<p>I have in several instances, for the purpose of securing -drones very early in the spring, deprived a populous -stock, containing a large number of drones, of its queen, -very late in the fall, and wintered them queenless. In -this manner the drones were permitted by the bees to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">- 80 -</span> -remain and winter with the swarm. Early in the spring -they were re-enforced with hatching brood from populous -stocks, but were permitted to rear no queens, in order that -the drones might be preserved. As soon as drones appeared -in the other stocks, this stock was furnished with a -laying queen, and it was as prosperous as the best.</p> - -<p>By this plan drones may be kept through the winter, -if their services are required very early in the spring, -before we can raise them from the best stocks by judicious -feeding, which very rarely can be done.</p> - -<p>The bees for rearing queens are usually obtained from -populous hives, such as will hardly miss a pint or a -quart from their numbers, great care being exercised not -to remove the queen. The best time to get the bees is -in the middle of the day. Go to a stock and first find -the queen. Set the comb she is on, to one side. Put your -light box (prepared as before described with a hole in the -top) on a sheet near by, with one edge raised an inch. -Take one or more combs from the hive (being careful -not to get the one with the queen,) and shake the bees -from them, down beside the box, which they will readily -enter. When you have bees enough in the box, close it -so none can escape. You now have the bees ready to put -in the miniature hive, as before directed.</p> - -<p>I think I have given such instruction as will enable -any one, after a little practice, to rear queens successfully.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> -I will follow it with such information as will insure -success in introducing queens into full stocks of bees.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> By taking brood for rearing queens only from such stocks as -exhibit the greatest industry, mildness of disposition, vigor in -withstanding the cold, etc., I find lam able to greatly improve -the desirable qualities of my bees from year to year. This systematic -course of treatment has produced swarms possessing very -valuable characteristics. It is surprising to note the difference in -profits and ease of management, between bees that have always -been left to take their own course, and such as have had their most -desirable traits cultivated and improved to the greatest possible -extent for a term of years. The difference is almost as marked as -between the savage in his native wilds, and the most intelligent -and highly educated member of society.</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">- 81 -</span></p> - -<p>Here let me caution bee keepers never to attempt to -introduce a queen into a full stock of bees, until she has -begun to lay. A young queen, not fecundated, will be -destroyed in nine cases out of ten, in spite of every precaution. -Before introducing a queen, the old queen in -the stock, if any exists, must be taken away. Make -your search for her in the middle of the day, as at that -time most of the workers are away. Use but very little -smoke, and that only at the entrance, as the bees should -remain spread over the combs as evenly as possible. If -you use much smoke they will rush to the bottom and -the corners of the hive, and it is very likely the queen -might seek a hiding-place with the others, where you -could not find her. If not disturbed, the queen will be -found in the comb among the bees. When ready to proceed, -having smoked them lightly at the entrances (a -puff at each entrance is sufficient,) lift out the comb carefully, -avoiding any jar, and look them over for the queen. -It is said the Italian queens are more readily found than -the natives, but I could never see any difference. Hold -the frame up in front of your face, so as to have a good -view, and look each comb over carefully till you find the -queen. When found, remove her. Always return the -combs so they will occupy the same position as before.</p> - -<p>As soon as the queen is removed, and the bees are -aware of their loss, they will usually commence to rear -another queen from the worker eggs to take her place. -To make a sure thing of it, they often start to produce a -half-dozen or more.</p> - -<p>In six days after removing the queen, smoke the bees -well, to get the combs as clear of them as possible. Do -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">- 82 -</span> -this in the middle of the day. When you have driven -the most of the bees from the comb to the bottom and -into the corners of the hives, lift out the combs, and look -sharply for queen cells, (success depends on thorough -work here.) With a sharp knife cut out and destroy every -such cell that is finished or commenced. Don't leave any -part of a queen cell in the hive, for the bees will not -accept a strange queen if they have the means of raising -one of their own. Having destroyed every queen cell, -finished or unfinished, return the combs to the hive; but -before putting the honey board over the brood section, -cut a hole in it a little smaller than the top of a tumbler. -Cover this hole with a light piece of board, simply laid -on, (not nailed, for you will need to remove it without -jar.) Then put the honey board in its place over the brood -section.</p> - -<p>Let the hive remain until near sunset, for the bees to -get quiet, and to learn that they are without a queen and -without the means of rearing another. Just before sunset, -take the queen you propose to introduce, and with -her a score or more of workers, and put them in a tumbler -with a piece of wire cloth over the top to keep them in. -(To get her from the miniature hive, where she was reared, -to the tumbler, take it to a close room, before a window, -so if she takes wing she may alight there.) Go to the -hive into which she is to be introduced, and remove the -cap, avoiding any jar that may irritate the bees. Take -off the board over the hole in the honey board, and turn -the tumbler containing the queen bottom up over it, keeping -the wire cloth between the queen in the tumbler and -the bees in the hive. Replace the cap to the hive, and let -the queen and her attendant bees remain in the tumbler, -in communication with the bees in the hive through the -wire cloth, until the next day, near sunset. Then take a teaspoonful -of honey, go to the hive, and remove the cap, -this time with the greatest possible care, as the slightest -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">- 83 -</span> -jar will endanger success. Raise the tumbler carefully -from off the queen, and with the honey smear her -completely over, then turn the wire cloth over carefully, -and let the queen and her attendant bees down through -the hole in the honey board, among the bees of the hive. -Replace the cap as quietly as possible, and the work is -done. In about one week examine the combs of this -hive for eggs, and if they are found, you can consider -your work crowned with success. If no eggs are discovered, -you must go over the ground again. But be -sure there are no eggs in the combs before you repeat the -work.</p> - -<p>This plan of introducing queens is the most successful -of any I have ever tested. It rarely fails. When a laying -queen is removed from one of the miniature hives, -the bees will usually rear queens from the eggs left when -the queen is removed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 102px;"> - <img src="images/bird_83.png" width="102" height="108" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">- 84 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">SOURCES OF HONEY.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">T</span>HE sources from which bees collect honey -are various and almost innumerable. -Almost every flower, tree, plant, shrub and -vine, in field, forest, pasture and garden yield honey to -some extent. White clover, is, perhaps, the greatest -source of honey in the New England and Middle States, -it being found to a greater or less extent in almost every -field and pasture. South and west there is, in many localities, -a profusion of wild flowers, producing considerable -quantities of honey. In some sections buckwheat affords -a rich harvest. Basswood yields a very nice quality of -honey, and in sections where it abounds, great quantities -are collected from it. Fruit blossoms—apple, pear, -peach, and all the different varieties of plums, cherries, -etc., are very important sources of honey.</p> - -<p>Pollen is the first material gathered by the bees in early -spring. Several varieties of alder, willow, red maple, -etc., produce pollen in great abundance. Raspberry, -blackberry, catnip, dandelion, etc., all contribute largely -of honey in their season. Corn, and most kinds of grain, -furnish pollen in abundance late in the season. Mustard -and sweet clover are great favorites with the busy bee, -yielding the most beautiful honey, clear as crystal and -white as snow. The sugar maple produces honey of -excellent quality, and where forests of this tree abound, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">- 85 -</span> -large quantities of honey are stored, while it is in -blossom in early spring.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> Locust, whitewood, mignonette, -golden rod, sumach, etc., all produce honey. -When we take into consideration the fact that the bee -will go seven miles or more to collect his sweets, it is -easy to understand that a certain number of swarms will -succeed in almost any locality, even without feeding. -To make this still more clear, we have only to take into -account the vast number of honey yielding flowers, trees, -plants, shrubs, etc., within a circle of fourteen miles in -diameter, the hives occupying the center, and the bees -flying to collect honey seven miles in every direction from -the hive. Those who have not tested the matter, will be -likely to dispute the statement, that a bee will go seven -miles to gather honey. But on this point I am able to -offer ample proof, to establish, beyond a reasonable doubt, -the fact that the Italian bee will go that distance. The -proof I offer is this: The first Italian bees brought into -the New England States, I had the honor of receiving. -The Italian bees being entirely distinct from the native -or black bees in color and size, I determined to avail myself -of the opportunity offered to satisfy myself on the -long-disputed question—"How far a bee will go to collect -honey." I therefore made close and repeated examinations, -at different times during the honey season, and it -was no uncommon occurrence, to find the Italian workers -seven miles from their hives. As there were no -Italian bees except mine within hundreds of miles, I considered -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">- 86 -</span> -this positive proof that that variety will travel -seven miles from its hive in its search for honey-producing -flowers. As the native or black bee is, to some extent, -found in all parts of the country, it is impossible to -prove conclusively the distance they will go from the -hive; yet my observations give very strong evidence that -they journey five miles or more after honey.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Climate and soil are so variable, it is impossible to give the -sources of honey so as to apply minutely to every locality. I shall -strive to designate the principal sources. The bee keeper will very -soon learn from experience and observation, what are the principal -sources of honey in that particular locality. Many different -flowers, trees and shrubs are found in one section yielding honey -profusely which do not exist in another.</p> - -</div> - -<p>When the distance a bee will go for honey is so well -established, and having found from repeated tests that -the flowers, when yielding honey, may be visited many -times each day by the bee, and yield at each visit a bountiful -supply, we can form some idea of the vast amount of -honey now permitted to go to waste, which might be collected -by bees and stored in nice boxes, and thus add wealth -and enjoyment to the human family.</p> - -<p>The bee keeper sometimes finds his bees idle, when -the flowers are in bloom in profusion, the sun shining -brightly, and, to the superficial observer, everything indicating -honey in abundance. And yet the bees are dormant, -and scarcely a one flying about the hives, notwithstanding -the hives and boxes are full of them. The truth -of the matter is, there is no honey in the flowers, although -they are in full bloom. The air is dry and clear. Suddenly -there is a change, the atmosphere becomes moist -and charged with electricity, with occasionally light -showers. Immediately all is activity about the hives. -The greatest show of industry is manifested; scores of -workers, and in some cases a hundred, coming into each -hive every minute, loaded with honey, many of them so -heavily weighted that they fall to the ground before they -reach the hive, where they rest a moment, and then try -again, usually succeeding in entering with their load. -I have seen a change, as here described, brought about -in a half-hour's time in the middle of the day, viz: The -bees pass from an idle, almost entirely dormant state, to -the greatest activity and industry. And all because a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">- 87 -</span> -change in the atmosphere had caused the flowers to secrete -honey. The question arises. How did the bees know at -that particular hour there was a change, and that the -flowers, which a few minutes before were destitute of -honey, were now bountifully supplied? I answer, the -bee was aware of the change almost the moment it took -place. The bee is very sensitive to all atmospheric -changes. A case in point will show this: The bees are -collecting honey abroad in the fields. The day is warm -and balmy. Suddenly there is the appearance of a shower, -and distant thunder is heard. Immediately the bees -came rushing in from the fields, in clouds. They cover -the entire front of their hives, in their eagerness to gain -a shelter from the approaching rain. Again, if the -morning is cloudy and dark, with every appearance of -rain, and you find the bees leaving their hives for the -fields, you may be quite certain that rain is not near, and -may expect soon to see the sun break forth and the -clouds disperse. If, on the other hand there is an appearance -of rain, and the bees are quiet in their hives, it is -quite sure to rain in a very short time. How wonderful -are the workings of nature. How great the sagacity of -the little, busy bee. Who dares say that this wonderful -little insect does not possess the power of reasons? But -I am digressing from the subject.</p> - -<p>Bees, in their journeys to collect honey, seldom visit -more than one species of flower, plant or shrub, at one -excursion; and this is a wise provision of nature, for -were it otherwise, and any and all species visited promiscuously, -the vegetable world would be thrown into -chaos, by the fertilizing dust of one species being imparted -to another, through the medium of the bee.</p> - -<p>Pollen as fast as collected is deposited in little basket-like -cavities on the inside of the bee's posterior legs. It -is packed in little pellets, varying in size from that of a -pin's head to a small pea. In color it is usually yellow, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">- 88 -</span> -but sometimes green or red. Hundreds of bees may be -seen entering the hives with pollen at almost any time in -the honey season, particularly in the morning before the -dew is off the grass. It is easier for the bees to collect -it at this time, as the moisture causes it the more readily -to adhere to the cavities of the legs. Honey when collected -is deposited in the stomach of the bee, in which -it is borne to the hive, and there deposited in cells in the -comb. The bee has the power of raising this honey from -its stomach, in the same manner that all ruminating animals -raise the cud.</p> - -<p>Some have contended that bees cause an injury to all -kinds of fruit, such as apples, peaches, plums, etc., by -taking away the substance and sweetness, in the form of -honey, which otherwise would be absorbed, and eaten -with the fruit. This is a great mistake. The provisions -of nature are wise in this respect as in all others. There -is the strongest evidence to prove that honey, once secreted -in the cups of the tiny blossoms, never returns to the -flower or fruit, but evaporates and passes into the air. -Who, in passing an apple or peach orchard in full bloom, -has not noticed the delicious fragrance; which is undoubtedly -honey which has evaporated from the myriads of -blossoms. It is very plain to the close observer that -nature has placed in the cups of flowers this honey, expressly -as food for the honey bee, and that it is in harmony -with all her great and wonderful works.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">- 89 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">LOCATION OF HIVES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> - <img src="images/text_i.png" width="64" height="75" alt="I" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">I</span>N locating your hives, place them on the south -side of buildings, or a close board fence facing -south, south-east or south-west. If possible, -locate in the shade of some trees, where they -Will be shaded from the sun from nine o'clock in the -forenoon until one in the afternoon, or a little later. If -no trees afford shade, arrange a roof over each hive, which -shall shade the entire hive, and especially the front, in the -summer season. But in spring and fall it is better to let -the bees have the full benefit of the sun's rays, shining -directly upon the hive. Construct a separate stand for -each hive, as follows: Cut boards about three feet long, -and joists three by six inches square (two pieces of the -latter two feet long;) nail the ends of the boards to these -pieces, so as to form a stand, when placed on the ground, -three feet long, two feet wide and six inches high. This -gives a free circulation of air beneath the stand. Set your -hive on this stand, the rear of the hive even with the rear -of the stand, which leaves the stand projecting a foot or -more in front, making an admirable place for the bees to -alight before entering the hive. Set your stands three -feet apart, and make them perfectly level before placing -your hive upon them.</p> - -<p>Place an alighting board in front of each hive. Get a -board about eighteen inches wide and two feet long. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">- 90 -</span> -Nail on some cleats at each end, to prevent warping. -Rest one edge of this board on the ground, the other edge -on the end of the platform in front of the hive. By this -arrangement many bees will be saved in early spring -which would otherwise be lost. By the old plan of setting -the hives two or three feet high, with no alighting -board, and a free draught of wind beneath, the loss of bees -was very great, especially in the early spring months, on -chilly afternoons following a very warm forenoon. The -bees, returning loaded with pollen, are unable to reach -a hive placed so high, and are blown to the earth by the -hundreds, and becoming chilled, die. The death of a few -bees is a great loss in early spring, for they are required -in keeping up the animal heat in the hive to forward -breeding.</p> - -<p>The location of bees as here recommended will be -found greatly superior to any other, for other reasons than -those mentioned, and which are too numerous to herein -specify.</p> - -<p>Every one who commences bee keeping should ever -remember, that bees always mark the location of their -hives. The young bee the first time it leaves the hive -invariably does this. The same is true with all swarms, -in the first flight in early spring, after being dormant in -the hive through the winter months.</p> - -<p>In marking the location, the bee comes from the hive, -and at the entrance rises on the wing. Turning its head -toward the hive, it recedes in circles, backward, at first -describing a circle so small as to be scarcely perceptible, -but enlarging as the distance from the hive is increased. -They thus take into view all objects surrounding the hive, -so that they are able to return to their own hives without -difficulty. After one or two excursions begun in this -manner, the bee leaves the hive in a direct line for the -fields, without taking any further precaution whatever, -and returns by its knowledge of the objects in the vicinity -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">- 91 -</span> -of the hives, without difficulty.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding there might be a hundred hives standing -in a line, with only a few inches space between each, -and all of the same color and appearance, if left to itself -no bee would enter the hive of its neighbor, although -there might be hundreds of thousands of the busy workers, -from all the hives, dying promiscuously about in the -air. Each bee knows its own hive perfectly, and if from -any accident it enters its neighbor's house, immediate -death is usually the result; or possibly it may escape, -after being roughly handled, and made to understand that -it is trespassing on forbidden ground.</p> - -<p>Some bee keepers, with little knowledge of their occupation, -often remove a hive of bees several rods, in the -working season. The result is, all the bees that had -marked the location (and all the old bees had done this) -are lost. They would continue to leave the hive in a -direct line, after its removal, not taking the precaution to -mark the location, as they were unaware of the change, -and when they were ready to return, they would return -to the former place.</p> - -<p>Bees may be safely moved a dozen miles or more, at -any time, as this takes them beyond their knowledge of -country; but in such cases set the hives six feet apart at -least. If this precaution is not taken and the hives are -set close together, the bees will rush from the hives on -being let out, not knowing the location has been changed, -and when they return, many will enter the wrong hive, -and be slaughtered without mercy.</p> - -<p>Therefore, let stocks be placed, early in the spring, -before they have marked the situation of the stands they -are to occupy for the summer, and not change them after -the bees have commenced their labors—at least change -them no less distance than twelve miles.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">- 92 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.<br /> - -<span class="p0">WINTERING BEES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">T</span>HE subject of wintering bees is of the greatest -importance, and one which is generally -very imperfectly understood, if we may -judge from the large number of swarms lost every winter -and spring. There are many methods recommended as -"the best" for wintering bees. One will tell you to keep -them cold; another to keep them warm. One will say, -put them in the cellar; another, bury them in the ground; -another put them in the attic. Is it any wonder that the -beginner becomes confused and disgusted at so much conflicting -advice? That bees have been wintered safely by -any and all of these old plans I shall not dispute. But I -am certain that neither plan will, alone, prove successful -in the majority of cases.</p> - -<p>By all the methods heretofore recommended, a large -number of bees die from each stock, during the winter; -so reducing them in numbers that it takes nearly the -entire summer for them to regain in numbers what they -have lost; while a very large number of stocks are lost -entirely.</p> - -<p>It will be readily understood that the greater the number -of bees in a hive in early spring, the more warmth -will be generated; consequently the more rapidly will the -brood mature and the bees increase in numbers. It is of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">- 93 -</span> -the greatest importance to have strong stocks in early -spring This is one of the strong points of the new -system of management, taught in this book.</p> - -<p>In nearly all the hives now in use, there is no proper -ventilation, consequently the honey in such hives becomes -sour, the comb mouldy, and the bees diseased. It is -impossible, in our variable climate, to winter bees successfully, -for any number of years, with any degree of -certainty, in the great majority of the ordinary hives.</p> - -<p>Some, who have met with heavy losses in winter, have -taken the ground that the loss was caused by a poor -quality of honey, stored by the bees in a wet season, or a -large yield late in the fall. But this is a great mistake. -Bees will not collect and store honey not suited to their -use as food; they make no mistakes on this point.</p> - -<p>I might discuss in detail all the different methods of -wintering bees, and show the great losses attending each, -with causes, etc., but by so doing I should consume more -space than I can give in this work. I shall therefore -confine my remarks to ordinary conditions of bees in -winter, and the requisites to insure uniform success in -wintering.</p> - -<p>In the winter bees cluster as closely together as circumstances -admit, and the severity of the cold demands. -The more severe the cold, the closer they cluster together, -in order the better to keep up the animal heat necessary -to maintain life.</p> - -<p>By all the old methods, the cluster of bees is divided by -the sheets of comb, which is a great hindrance to successful -wintering. In such cases the bees cannot cluster -compactly together, but are spread out between the different -sheets of comb. In the Controllable Hive, and on -the plan of wintering here recommended, the bees in very -cold weather cluster in the space between the wire cloth -of the ventilator and the top of the frames of the brood -section. They are here able to keep up the required -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">- 94 -</span> -amount of animal heat, as they can cluster compactly, -without anything to separate them.</p> - -<p>By the ordinary plan, in sudden turns of very cold -weather, the bees between the outer combs are often frozen -to death. "Oh!" says some one, "that's all humbug; -you can't freeze a bee." Certainly you can. To satisfy -yourself of this, after a very cold turn of weather, look -under your box hives, if you have them, or any patent -hive having a loose bottom board to admit of an examination, -and see if you do not find hundreds of bees which -have fallen dead from the outside combs. I have examined -hundreds of stocks, and found them as here -described. If you don't believe a bee will freeze, take out -a dozen from a hive, in a severely cold spell of weather -in mid-winter, confine them in a box, and set them out -doors, letting them remain only one night. See if they -are not dead beyond resuscitation, the next morning. -This notion that bees will not freeze is a great mistake, -and has led to some very foolish experiments in wintering -them.</p> - -<p>A swarm of bees of average size, put in proper condition -for winter, will not freeze; but from this it does -not follow that a bee is proof against the greatest possible -degree of cold. When bees are prepared for winter, as -herein directed, they will, as before stated, cluster compactly -together. And as the cold increases the cluster -will contract, in accordance with the increasing of the -cold, and consequently no loss of bees occur.</p> - -<p>Another great cause of loss in winter is in proper ventilation, -or no ventilation at all. Every swarm of bees -throws off a considerable amount of moisture from their -bodies. In very cold weather, if the hive is not properly -ventilated, this moisture collects on the combs at the -sides and top of the hives, in the form of frost and ice. -In moderate weather this frost and ice melts, and runs -down into the hive, completing saturating the bees, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">- 95 -</span> -then, if a sudden change to extremely cold weather takes -place, all are destroyed by freezing; or if they chance to -survive the winter, the moisture causes the combs to -mould, the honey becomes sour, and thin like water, -rendering it unsuitable food for the bee, and bringing on -diseases—dysentery, bee cholera, foul brood, etc., and -in a short time the bees are all destroyed. Thousands of -good swarms are lost every winter by improper management, -and from being kept in hives not suitable for wintering. -I give directions for wintering on my plan, in Controllable -Hives, and I feel confident, if directions are -carefully followed, that many stocks will be saved -annually, which otherwise would have perished.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">How to Winter Bees in Controllable Hives.</span></h3> - -<p>Bees are wintered in Controllable Hives on their summer -stands, by my plan, without loss, by maintaining an -even temperature in the brood section, and disposing of -all moisture or perspiration thrown off by the bees in -cold weather. I have never lost a swarm of bees in -Controllable Hives in the winter. I attempt to winter -none, except strong, healthy stocks. I have no mouldy -combs, no sour honey. The combs are kept perfectly dry, -and the hives in a healthy condition. I do not lose a teacupful -of bees, on the average, from each of my hives -during the winter.</p> - -<p>To winter in Controllable Hives, prepare as follows: -At the commencement of steady cold weather, which, in -the New England States, is usually near the close of -November, put the bees in condition to winter by entirely -closing the upper entrance to the hive, and the lower one -shut up about one-half.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Take out the box frames at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">- 96 -</span> -sides of the brood section, and put the movable partitions -in place. Remove the boxes and feeder, or honey board, -(whichever is in place) from over the brood section. -Place the ventilator (described elsewhere) over the brood -section, so the lower edge of the ventilator, at the sides, -will rest on the upper edges of the movable partitions, on -each side of the brood section. Pack the sides of the -hive (that part occupied by the side boxes in summer,) -closely with very line hay or straw. Pack the cap as -full of the same matter as it can be crowded. Then put -the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator, -filling up evenly, so when the cap is placed ever the upper -part, the cap and sides will be compactly filled. There -must be no spaces left unfilled, the object being to -secure an even temperature in the brood section, and -absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees; and to do this -successfully, the cap and sides must be closely packed -throughout. When you have the cap and sides well -packed, replace the cap, and the work is done. Shade the -front of the hives during the winter months. No matter -if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury -it from sight, let it remain;—your bees are safe.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> To secure a slight upward draught of air, to carry off the -moisture arising from the bees, make a hole a half-inch in diameter in -front and rear of the cap, in the center, close to the top or roof -boards. (And here let me say, the roof boards, or boards covering -the cap, should project about an inch, as they can be more firmly -nailed, and make better joints; for driving rains must not be allowed -to penetrate to the inside of the hive.) The inside of each hole -should be covered with wire cloth, to keep out insects, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<p>A neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in Controllable -Hives completely buried in snow over six feet deep, and -the crust formed over them so it would bear a horse. -They remained under the snow from January until April, -when they thawed out, and every stock was found to be in -first-class order.</p> - -<p>When there is only a small quantity of snow about the -hive, say only enough to cover the lower entrance, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">- 97 -</span> -there should come a very warm spell of weather, which -would bring the bees out, be sure to clear away the snow -so they need not be kept back by it. But it will take an -exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from -their dormant state in the Controllable Hive, and bring -them out for a turn in the open air. If the air is warm -enough to induce them to come out, it is always warm -enough for them to fly briskly. In this respect there is a -great contrast between my hive and others. With other -hives, an hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in -winter, when the air is cold, and the consequence is, they -fall into the snow and perish by hundreds. In this way -stocks are often reduced in numbers until all are lost. -The dysentery generally attacks such stocks (brought on -by the sudden changes in temperature in the hive.) and -hastens their destruction, by causing them to leave the -hive, when they would not do so if in a healthy condition. -Bees, when wintered in Controllable Hives as directed, -will come out in the spring, strong in numbers, and in a -healthy condition—in great contrast to the weak and diseased -stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary -manner. I have perfect confidence in the method of -wintering here recommended, for I have had it in practical -use for many years, and have never lost a stock, notwithstanding -some winters have been very destructive to bees -in this section, some, who practice the old methods, losing -their entire stocks. I learn from my correspondents in -all parts of the United States that there is great loss of -bees in winter; so great in fact as to discourage many -from attempting to engage in apiculture.</p> - -<p>My plan of wintering is very simple, and commends -itself to every intelligent person. In a few words it may -be expressed thus: The brood section is secured against -the effects of sudden changes in the weather, (this keeps -the bees dormant throughout the winter season, which is -as nature designed,) and provides for the absorption of all -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">- 98 -</span> -moisture and perspiration arising from the bees, white -in a dormant slate. These two points are the foundation -of successful wintering.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 186px;"> - <img src="images/rabbits_28.png" width="186" height="148" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">- 99 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">TRANSFERRING BEES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 73px;"> - <img src="images/text_a.png" width="73" height="71" alt="A" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">A</span>S some of my readers may have bees in ordinary -hives, which they would like to transfer -to the Controllable Hive, I will devote a chapter -to Transferring.</p> - -<p>If you have bees in a box or patent hive, or any of the -thousand and one bee hive humbugs, which are of little -or no profit, and cause you much trouble and perplexity -in swarming time, and frequent and heavy losses in -winter, you can move them into Controllable Hives—comb, -honey and bees together—and manage them on -the plan here recommended, and they will winter well, -come out strong and healthy in the spring, and cause comparatively -no trouble in swarming time, yielding you a -good profit yearly.</p> - -<p>The best time to transfer is as early in spring as the -weather becomes warm enough to keep the bees active -every day, which, in the New England States, is usually -in April. It is a good time to transfer about twenty-four -days after the first swarm issues from a stock, as at that -time there is but little brood, and usually but few bees. -October is a very good time to transfer, but not as good -as either of the times before mentioned. Great care is -required to prevent robbing, and also to have the comb -frames all filled with combs, and in good position for the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">- 100 -</span> -bees to winter. As cold weather is so close at hand, the -bees will have but little time to arrange for winter.</p> - -<p>In transferring, construct the Controllable Hive as -directed, with exception of the comb frames, from which -leave off the triangular piece, as the comb can be better -fitted to a flat surface. Make several holes one-fourth -inch in diameter through the top, bottom and ends of -frames, and a like number of sharp wooden pins about -two inches long to fit these holes.</p> - -<p>Early in the morning, before the bees begin to fly, prepare -your smoker, go to the hive you propose to transfer, -and before you touch it, smoke the bees at the entrances -moderately, giving them two or three puffs, waiting about -a minute and giving them two or three more. Then stop -the entrances, so no bees can escape. Take the hive from -the stand and carry it to some out-building, so the bees -from the other hives will not trouble you, and get a taste -of the honey, thereby inciting them to robbery. Turn -the hive bottom up, and with two sticks, each about a half-inch -in diameter and twelve inches long, strike the hive -lightly half a dozen times, and then wait for two or three -minutes. Then with the sticks on each side of the hive -drum briskly (but lightly, so not to break the comb,) for -about five minutes. Then puff smoke under the bottom -board on all sides. Much of this preliminary work is for -the purpose of confusing the bees, and inducing them -to fill themselves with honey from the cells of the hive, -as a bee gorged with honey will never volunteer an attack -for the purpose of stinging. The bees are now ready to -be transferred. You will need some one to assist you, -and it will be necessary for you to put on your articles of -protection, and keep your smoker in readiness for use, as -occasionally a swarm is bard to subdue, though the great -majority of them are perfectly docile after the treatment -recommended. But we are to "beard the lion in his den," -and to be forewarned is to be forearmed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">- 101 -</span></p> - -<p>The bees usually manifest their submission by a loud -humming noise. If after you commence operations (before -you get the side of the hive off) they show a disposition -to be cross, replace the bottom board, close the -entrances, if open, and give the insects a good smoking, -at the entrances, and by raising the bottom board enough -to introduce the smoke; give them the smoke freely for -several minutes. Then again remove the bottom board. -(These directions apply to the common box hive. If -hives of a different pattern are operated upon, vary the -operation to conform to the requirements of the case, -applying the same principles.) Then with a chisel and -hammer remove one side of the hive (the side to which -the bees have attached the least comb,) and with a thin, -sharp table-knife, cut the edges of the comb from the -sides of the hive. It is well to have a table or stand near -by, with a cloth folded in several thicknesses, on which -to lay the sheets of comb with the bees adhering, if -necessary. The cloth prevents crushing. Cut out a -comb from the hive with the bees adhering, and cut off -the edges, if required, so it will fit the new frame closely -at the top and bottom. No matter if it does not go the -whole length of the frame from front to rear, as the bees -will finish it.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Have the comb occupy the same position, -relatively, in the new hive, that it did in the old. When -the comb is in place in the frame, secure it by putting the -wooden pins through the holes in the frames into the -combs, and having fastened it firmly in place by means -of the pins, place it in the Controllable Hive in its proper -position.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> But very few hives are large enough for their combs to fill the -movable comb frames of the Controllable Hive.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Tims proceed, till all the frames of the Controllable -Hive are filled, or the comb in the old hive is exhausted. -In transferring, very old, black combs should be discarded -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">- 102 -</span> -even if you do not have your new hive more than half -full. Get all the bees, it possible, in the new hive, and -when you set it on the stand, close the lower entrance -entirely, and let the upper one remain only one-half open, -for a few days, until the bees get well located in their -new home. Be careful not to crush any of the bees, and -take special care not to injure the queen.</p> - -<p>As you will probably complete the operation of transferring -at about the time that bees will be flying briskly -about the other hives, it will be better to put wire cloth -over the entrances, to confine the bees you have transferred, -and let them remain in the out-building until about -an hour before sunset; then set them on the stand and -give them their liberty. Keeping them shut up for the -time named, gives them a chance to take up the honey -which runs from the transferred combs, and which might, -if the bees were carried immediately to the stand, incite -robbing.</p> - -<p>Transferring is by no means so formidable an operation -as at first appears. I have transferred a very large number -of swarms from the old box hives, without any protection -for hands or face, and now the bees seldom show any -disposition to sting. Yet I would advise beginners -to protect themselves, until by practice they become -familiar with the work. "Practice makes perfect" is an -old and true saying, and it applies to all operations with -bees, I assure you. In my first attempts at this work I -thought I must be protected, and I would not for the -world proceed without a protector, and that of the most -invulnerable kind. Now, having had much practice, I -feel no necessity for any covering whatever. I trust I -have made my method of transferring perfectly plain, -so that every one who wishes may avail themselves of its -advantages.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">- 103 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ITALIAN BEES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p>THE Italian Bee is a native of the Alps, and -was first imported to this country about the -year 1860. The Italian being a native of -mountainous regions and a high latitude, they were -reported to be extremely hardy and vigorous. Those -who were first to obtain them, were unanimous in their -praise of the Italian bee, and fully agreed that it was -superior to our native or black bee in very many respects. -The good reputation which preceded the introduction of -the bee to this country, by time and experience in their -care, has been fully vindicated.</p> - -<p>The pure Italian bees are superior to the natives in the -following characteristics: They are more hardy and -vigorous, withstanding our severe winters, with ordinary -care, better than the natives; they are more industrious -than the native bee, being very active in storing honey in -cool, windy, or cloudy weather, such as keeps the native -bees quiet in the hives.</p> - -<p>The pure Italian, being larger and more vigorous than -the natives, go greater distances to collect honey, and -as they are larger, they carry more at a time, and being -swifter of flight than the natives, they go the same distance -in much quicker time. Then, too, the pure Italian -bee is very beautiful, nearly the entire body being of a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">- 104 -</span> -golden color, so that some of its admirers have given it -the name of "golden bee." It is very mild in disposition, -seldom offering to sting unless unreasonably irritated. -They show great activity in protecting their hives from -the bee moth, even when weak in numbers. They also -show the same trait in defending their stores from the -attacks of robber bees. When the native bees have come -buzzing around a hive of Italians in search of plunder, I -have seen an Italian dart from the hive like a bullet, and -seizing a native, while on the wing, bear him to earth and -dispatch him with a sting. This feat I never saw a native -bee accomplish. Being larger than the natives they are -able to reach the honey in the red clover, and many other -flowers not accessible to our common bees, which makes -an essential difference in the amount of honey collected.</p> - -<p>Rev. L. L. Langstroth says of the Italian bees: "They -gather more than twice as much honey in the same -localities, in the same time, as the swarms of native bees."</p> - -<p>I consider the pure Italian Bee a valuable and very -desirable acquisition. I have furnished several of my -lady friends with full colonies of them in Controllable -Hives, and they have expressed themselves as very much -pleased with their gentle disposition and great beauty.</p> - -<p>I think the points of superiority here designated will -be found in the pure Italian bee. Very many, who have -purchased bees purporting to be Italians, have been grossly -deceived, having received simply a native swarm of bees, -the queen of which, a pure native, had been impregnated -by a drone having a slight tinge of Italian blood; such -stock was but very little, if any, better than a pure native -swarm.</p> - -<p>I find I can make an improvement, even in the pure -Italian stock, by selecting queens for rearing to supply -my full stocks and with eggs and drones, from such stocks -as show the superior characteristics in the fullest degree. -This course persevered in for a term of years will show -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">- 105 -</span> -marked results in the improvement of the desirable points -of superiority found in the Italian bee.</p> - -<p>I take great pride in my Italian bees. I believe they -are as beautiful specimens of this variety as it is possible -to produce, and possessing the characteristics of superiority -of the Italians in the fullest degree. The points which -I strive to cultivate and develop fully, are: Industry, -mildness of disposition, beauty of color, vigor of constitution, -etc.</p> - -<p>I have here given in brief my views of the Italian bee, -as I receive many letters of enquiry in regard to them. -I base my statements on practical experience. I would -advise all who wish to procure the Italian bees, to exercise -great care in selecting them, and purchase only of -those who are known to have pure stocks, for the best is -the cheapest in the end, no matter if the first cost seems -high. If the worth of the money is in the bees, the -higher the price paid, the better you will be satisfied. -But do not pay even a low price for inferior stock, for you -will not be satisfied.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/fan.png" width="108" height="100" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">- 106 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="hive_fig1" style="width: 414px;"> - <img src="images/hive_fig1.png" width="414" height="348" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Controllable Hive. Fig. I.</span></div> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">- 107 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">CONSTRUCTION OF CONTROLLABLE HIVES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 80px;"> - <img src="images/text_o.png" width="80" height="76" alt="O" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">O</span>N the opposite page is given <a href="#hive_fig1">Figure I</a>. of a -perspective view of the Controllable Bee -Hive, with the measurements of its exterior -parts. The body of the hive is made in two -parts, A and B. The lower edges of the upper part B -rest upon the cleats C, attached to the outside of the -lower part of A, near its upper edge—as will be seen by -reference to Figures <a href="#hive_fig1">I.</a> and <a href="#hive_fig2">II.</a> The middle board D of -the bottom is loose, and is held in place by hooks E. The -middle board F, at the sides of the lower part A, are loose, -hinged at their lower edges, and are held in place when -closed by the buttons G. In front of the lower part A, -near both its lower and upper edges, are formed slots, or -bee passages, H. The lower part A is divided longitudinally -into three compartments by two movable partitions. -The side compartments are designed to receive the honey -boxes J; and the center compartment forms the brood -section. To the inner surfaces of the front and rear -walls of the brood section are attached boards, forming a -double thickness, to secure a more even temperature, -keeping out the heat in summer and the cold in winter. -The grain of the inner board runs crosswise of the outer -one to prevent warping. The upper edges of the inner -boards are rebated out five-eighths inch square inside, to -receive the ends of the comb frames of the brood section.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">- 108 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="hive_fig2" style="width: 412px;"> - <img src="images/hive_fig2.png" width="412" height="284" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Controllable Hive. Fig. II.</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">- 109 -</span></p> - -<p><a href="#hive_fig2">Figure II.</a> is a perspective view of the Controllable Hive, -with the upper part of the case removed, showing the -position of the glass honey boxes at the top, with the -feeder T in the rear, and also showing the position of the -side boxes J, in the large frame O. as shown more clearly -in <a href="#hive_fig3">Figure III</a>. The inner ends of the side boxes J, next -to the brood section, are formed of boards C, narrower -than the boxes, leaving side spaces, to allow the bees to -pass in and out freely from the brood section to the side -boxes. When top boxes and feeder are not on, a board -called a honey board is placed over the brood section, -fitting very closely, so as to confine the heat, generated by -the bees, to the brood section. In winter the brood section -is covered by a ventilator made as follows: Take a piece -of fine board one-half inch thick. Get out two pieces, -each one inch wide and twenty-two and three-eighths -inches long, and two pieces of same width each ten -inches long. Nail the short pieces on to the ends of the -long pieces, forming a frame nine inches wide by twenty-two -and three-eighths inches long, inside measurement. -Over this frame tack a piece of wire cloth twenty-three -and three-eighths inches long, by ten inches wide, of a very -fine mesh. This frame will just fit over the brood section, -and give a space between the wire cloth and the top of the -comb frames of about one and three-eighths inches. Tack -the wire cloth on closely, so no bees can escape when the -ventilator is in place. This ventilator is to be used only -in winter, as directed under the chapter on Wintering.</p> - -<p><a href="#hive_fig3">Figure III.</a>, on next page, is a perspective view of a -set of side surplus honey boxes and their inclosing frame, -with measurements of the different parts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">- 110 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="hive_fig3" style="width: 413px;"> - <img src="images/hive_fig3.png" width="413" height="318" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Side Surplus Honey Boxes. Fig. III.</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">- 111 -</span></p> - -<p>The brood section of the hive is twenty and one-half -inches long, nine inches wide and twelve inches deep, -inside measurement. The brood section contains six -movable comb frames, resting on rebatings, and held at -the proper distance apart at the bottom by a brace. The -only plate where these frames touch the hive, is where -the top bar of the comb frames rests on the rebating at -the ends. To the top bar of each comb frame (on the -under side) is nailed a triangular comb guide to aid in -securing straight combs. Each side of the triangle is -one inch wide. A piece of board one inch wide and -three-eighths inch thick is laid on top of the comb frames -lengthwise in the centre on this piece. The ends of the -top boxes rest in the center where they come together. -Notches are cut on the underside, crosswise, to admit of -the passage of the bees.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> I have exercised great care, and incurred considerable expense, -in giving drawings with measurements and directions for constructing -Controllable Hives, glass boxes, etc., that such of my readers -as wish may be able to construct the hives and manage bees -according to the new system as taught in this work. I have no -time or desire to establish a business in the manufacture of hives, -but if any of my readers want a full sized Controllable Hive, -ready for a swarm of bees, the better to enable them to make the -Controllable Hive, I will furnish them. Price eight dollars. In no -case will I furnish more than one to the same address. The hive -is not patent, so any one can manufacture and use as many as they -wish. They can make them at their home, especially in the winter -season, much cheaper than I can furnish them.</p> - -</div> - -<p>In the construction of hives use the best dry pine -lumber, free from Haws or cracks, and put on a good coat -of paint to protect from the weather. As the hives are to -remain in the open air the year round, the best of lumber -is required, and that to be well protected with a heavy -coat of the most durable paint. Make close-fitting joints -and nail thoroughly.</p> - -<p>These hives, if properly constructed of sound lumber, -will last many years. I have had the same hive on one -stand incessantly for six years, and at the end of that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">- 112 -</span> -time it is as good, to all appearances, as when first put -there.</p> - -<p>All who desire to construct Controllable Hives, and -adopt the plan of bee management recommended in this -book, can do so freely, as there is no patent on the hive, -or any of its parts or fixtures.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 186px;"> - <img src="images/rabbits_28.png" width="186" height="148" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">- 113 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">MONTHLY DUTIES.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> - <img src="images/text_t.png" width="87" height="63" alt="T" /> -</div> - -<p>THE successful management and care of bees -requires forethought and preparation for -all labor and care bestowed upon them, if -we desire to bestow it at the proper time, and in the most -judicious manner. I have in this chapter given only brief -hints as to the work to be performed. Such of my -readers as are located in a climate essentially differing -from that of the New England States, will perceive the -necessity of varying their management to correspond -with the difference in climate, etc.</p> - -<p>I shall repeat some of the statements already made, in -order to impress them more thoroughly upon the bee -keeper. The object of this chapter is to bring to the -mind of the bee keeper the more important duties required -in the successful use of the system recommended in this -work.</p> - - -<h3>JANUARY.</h3> - -<p>We will commence with January as it is the first month -in the year.</p> - -<p>In this month construct hives, glass honey boxes, etc. -Give the new hives a good coat of paint. They will last -longer, and as they are to remain out of doors the year -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">- 114 -</span> -around, it is very essential that they be preserved against -the weather. A good, heavy coat of paint, spread over -good lumber, will prevent cracking and warping. -Employ the time, in this month of comparative leisure, -in getting everything in readiness for the approaching -honey season.</p> - - -<h3>FEBRUARY.</h3> - -<p>February like January is not a busy month with bees -in the Northern States, neither do they require much care. -If not finished last month, continue the work of January -by making hives, glass honey boxes, and all fixtures required -in the management of the bees in the coming -season. In some sections bees will fly briskly the last of -the month. Clear away the snow from the foot of the -hives at that time. Set out meal feed for the bees, provided -they fly briskly.</p> - - -<h3>MARCH.</h3> - -<p>At the commencement of this month, clear the snow -away from the front of hives; raise the hives up on blocks -at the corners, remove the bottom board under the brood -section, and brush out all accumulations, which might -invite the bee moth to deposit her eggs, if suffered to -remain through the summer. This accomplished, set -the hive back in its place. The first day that the bees -fly, set out the meal as heretofore directed. Commence -to feed liquid feed as early as the bees will take it. Feed -regularly every day, or every other day, at evening. -When you commence to feed, remove the packing from -the cap, and also take off the ventilator. The space over -the comb frames not covered with the feeder, cover with -a small honey board. Let the packing remain at the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">- 115 -</span> -sides until you have put on the side boxes, or until some -time in May, as it keeps the brood chamber warm, which -is essential in forwarding breeding. Open a small portion -of the upper entrance (about one-third) and keep the -passage open at the bottom, the same as during the -winter.</p> - - -<h3>APRIL.</h3> - -<p>Early in April—the first warm, sunny day—examine -your stocks, and see if they have fertile, laying queens. -If the queen is all right, there will be eggs and brood -in the brood cells. Don't keep the hives open any longer -than is necessary, as the cold air might chill the brood. -At this time, if some stocks have a large amount of honey -in the combs of the brood section, exchange such with -some stock that has but little; as it is a disadvantage -to have too-much sealed honey in the brood combs in the -spring. It sometimes happens that all the brood combs -will be filled with sealed honey nearly down to the -bottom, leaving but a very small place en two or three -combs near the bottom for breeding purposes. In such -cases, take out two or three combs, and exchange with -other stocks having empty combs, leaving in each such -as have brood and eggs, in every stock. Don't take out -any bees. In this manner equalize your stocks, and all -will be benefited. If any stocks are found queenless, or -with diseased or worthless queens, take means to furnish -them with a fertile, laying queen, as soon as possible. -In the meantime, keep the entrances to such hives contracted -very small, so but very few bees can pass at one -time, to prevent attacks from robbers. Queenless stocks, -or those which have diseased or drone-laying queens, will -not resist an attack from robber bees with as much vigor -as a stock having a fertile and prolific queen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">- 116 -</span></p> - - -<h3>MAY.</h3> - -<p>If surplus honey is your object the coming season, -early in this month put on the boxes at the sides, and the -last of the month, or as soon as the bees commence work -in the side boxes, remove the small honey board over the -brood section, and put on the top boxes, except at the -place occupied by the feeder. It may be well to feed -liberally for about ten days before fruit blossoms appear, -in order to get the bees at work in the boxes. You can -judge what is best. If the stocks are backward in breeding, -the comb not filled with eggs and brood in nearly -every part, it will be best to defer liberal feeding until a -little later. You should have had the brood combs filled -with brood and eggs, before liberal feeding is begun, -else the bees will fill with honey what should be filled -with eggs and brood; and thus the number of bees will -be reduced from what there would be if the queen deposited -eggs in all the cells. You want all the bees possible -to gather the honey harvest of June, July, August and -September.</p> - -<p>If you want swarms, don't put on any boxes.</p> - -<p>About the time fruit blossoms appear, or a little before, -open both entrances to their full extent, in all strong and -healthy stocks.</p> - - -<h3>JUNE.</h3> - -<p>This is the month for swarms. It is also the month, -in most localities, when the best quality of box honey is, -collected. If you have arranged for swarms to appear -this month, have everything in readiness for them. If you -are arranging for surplus honey, remove the boxes as fast -as filled, and replace with empty ones. Hive the swarms -as soon as clustered. Be sure not to let them remain in -the hot sun for any length of time. Have your hives all -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">- 117 -</span> -ready. This month is a good time to rear queens in the -miniature hives. Keep the grass and weeds about the -hives cut down. They harbor the moth miller, when -suffered to grow about the hives.</p> - - -<h3>JULY.</h3> - -<p>Continue to take off boxes as fast as filled. Keep a -sharp lookout that the moth worms do not get in and -injure the honey in the boxes which you have removed. -If the supply of honey fails when the boxes are only -partially filled, feed the bees liberally, until the boxes are -finished. Do this as soon as honey fails, as the bees will -store faster in boxes if fed as soon as the natural -supply of honey ceases. It will be well to put on a few -boxes—say, one side to each new swarm which has been -hived early; and also on old stocks that swarmed early. -Put the boxes on one side first; then if the bees go to -work in them, put in the other side.</p> - - -<h3>AUGUST.</h3> - -<p>If you have a market near home, the surplus honey in -glass boxes will sell very well the last of this month, -before honey is brought from away; but if you are to -ship a great distance, the weather will be too warm in -this month. Keep a close watch that the boxes you have -taken off do rot get wormy. Eternal vigilance is the -price of success.</p> - -<p>Keep boxes on your hives through this month and next, -for surplus honey. Keep down the grass and weeds -about the hives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">- 118 -</span></p> - - -<h3>SEPTEMBER.</h3> - -<p>In some localities September gives a very good yield of -honey. I recollect one season in particular, since I -adopted my present system of bee management, when -the yield of box honey in September was very remarkable. -Some of my hives of bees filled their full set of boxes -almost entirely in a few days. I think that it was in considerably -less than two weeks, that they finished them up, -and they had only a light start—a few small pieces of -comb in some of the boxes, and in the others none at all.</p> - -<p>Feed at the last of this month, to complete all partially -filled boxes, and at the very last of the month, or first of -October, feed such swarms as may be deficient of stores -for winter, if you prefer to do this rather than to equalize -by exchange of comb frames, as directed in another place. -If you decide to thus equalize, do it the last of October or -the first of November.</p> - - -<h3>OCTOBER.</h3> - -<p>At the commencement of this month, continue to feed -such stocks, if any, as are short of honey, yet are supplied -with a good amount of comb in which to store honey. -As the yield of honey from flowers closes this month, at -its end remove all boxes from the hives. Such as are -partially filled with comb or honey may be set in a cold, -dry place, and remain for use another year. If placed -where they will freeze, and then sealed up carefully, so -the moth miller cannot get in, they will be in good condition -when wanted next season. Boxes that have comb -about a third full or even less, are finished very quickly -by the bees. Be sure to keep all such boxes for the next -season. You probably have a few queens in your miniature -hives. Look over your stocks, and if any are -found queenless, or with diseased queens, give them a -new and prolific one.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">- 119 -</span></p> - - -<h3>NOVEMBER.</h3> - -<p>The first of November, if not already done, exchange -comb frames, from stocks deficient in stores to winter, -with such as can spare a frame of honey. Do this until -all have stores sufficient for winter. Twenty pounds of -honey will render them safe until you begin to feed in -the spring. From the middle to the last of November is -usually the time to prepare the hives for winter, by packing -with hay or straw, as directed in another place. This -should not be done until a few days before steady cold -weather sets in. Care should be exercised not to put it off -until it is too cold; neither should it be done too early. -Be sure to pack thoroughly. Success in wintering -depends in a great degree upon thorough work in packing -the hives.</p> - - -<h3>DECEMBER.</h3> - -<p>In this month procure your lumber and all material for -making hives, boxes, etc., to be worked up during the -winter. If there are small villages or large cities near by, -you will find this month a good time to market your -honey, if you have any on hand. With a little effort, you -can have ready customers for your goods, or at least a -portion of it. Honey in glass boxes is in such nice shape, -that any one who likes a fine article, will pay a liberal -price for it, after they have once tested its quality. In a -few years you will have established a trade with ready -customers, near home, at remunerative prices.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">- 120 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">CONCLUSION.</span></h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 113px;"> - <img src="images/text_w.png" width="113" height="64" alt="w" /> -</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">W</span>E often hear this question asked: "Are -bees Profitable?" and the replies given -are various, contradictory and amusing, -varying in accordance with the honesty, experience, skill -and success of the bee keeper. Such as have attempted -bee keeping with the old fashioned square box hives, -under the old system of management based on fire and -brimstone, will say there is no profit in bees, and that you -must not molest them at all; if you do, "they will run -out, and you will loose your luck."</p> - -<p>There is another class, who have adopted all the extravagant -fancies of the patent bee hive venders, paying -large sums of money for hives worse than useless, with -what are claimed to be patent fixtures—expecting a sudden -fortune as the result, and found the whole thing -a fraud. Perhaps they have been duped in this way a -half-dozen times or more, and always with the same result. -This class will tell you emphatically, that everything -pertaining to bees is a humbug and a cheat—no -money in them, etc.</p> - -<p>In presenting the statements made in this work, I am -not blinded nor influenced by any selfish motive, in condemning -or recommending any one system of bee management -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">- 121 -</span> -or hive. I only wish to present facts, and do -what little I can to make bee keeping safe and profitable -to all who engage in it. There is much written on the -subject of bees—their habits and management, construction -of hives, etc., which is mere guess-work. A great -deal is written, too, for no other than selfish or prejudiced -motives. What is wanted is practical instruction on the -subject—such instruction and statements as are based -on experience, and will stand the test of application, -when brought into active, every-day use.</p> - -<p>The real, practical experience of the bee keeper, who -has devoted many years to the work, and will tell what -has come under his or her personal observation, is worth -much more than the finest spun theory of the most -learned and talented theorist; or in other words, mere -conjecture is a poor and uncertain guide in bee keeping. -It is an old but true saying that "Practice makes Perfect." -In no business will this saying apply more closely -or with greater force than to bee keeping.</p> - -<p>That bees are profitable when rightly managed, I think -I have shown in this little work; and that they can be of -no profit, as often managed, I think is equally made clear.</p> - -<p>The natural habits of bees have not been sufficiently -understood, by the majority of bee keepers. This has -rendered them an easy prey to the many speculators in -bee hives of peculiar shape and construction, who are -constantly urging their claims to possessing great knowledge -of bees, when perhaps they never saw a bee; and -care not one straw for the advancement of successful -bee culture. I find, with the great majority of hives now -in use, there are many obstacles to successful and profitable -bee keeping. There is too little room for storing -box honey in them. Boxes are often difficult of access to -the bees, so that they manifest much reluctance about -entering them, often clustering on the outside of the hive -through the honey season, when they should be at work -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">- 122 -</span> -in the boxes. Then, too, the boxes are usually too large, -which renders the honey unsalable. Honey in large boxes -often contains cells of brood, and bee bread, or pollen, -interspersed among the honey cells, which are a great -damage to it, rendering it very unsalable. Glass boxes, -each holding about four and one-half pounds, is the -proper size. A swarm of bees in a hive with thirty of -these boxes, judiciously arranged, will fill them nearly as -quickly as they would half the number, as the bees have -ample room to work without crowding.</p> - -<p>There are a vast number of bee keepers who now have -bees which are of no profit to them, but instead are only -a perplexity and trouble. If such would manage their -bees on correct and scientific principles, in accordance -with their natural habits and instincts, with judicious -care and attention bestowed at the right time, and in the -proper manner, using a hive constructed in accordance -with those principles, they would be surprised at the -results which would follow.</p> - -<p>To succeed with bees, we should recollect that personal -experience is the best guide; and next to this is the instruction -of those engaged in the business, who prove -by the results which follow their management, that they -make bee culture profitable. In commencing bee keeping, -if you purchase bees, use great care in doing so. Buy -none but strong, healthy stocks. If you purchase in -box hives or patent hives, you will be very likely, if not -acquainted with bees, or unless purchasing of some -reliable person, to get diseased stocks; and again, a person -who keeps bees by the ordinary methods, is very -likely to have diseased stocks which he thinks are all -right. So, great care is necessary in buying your outfit -to commence bee keeping. Diseased stocks are dear at -any price. You want the very best to start with, if you -can possibly get them. Be sure to get such stocks as -have young queens, for if the stock has a queen four -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">- 123 -</span> -years old or more, (and they are likely to be that old in -box or patent hives, under ordinary management,) such -a queen is liable to fail at any time, and loss of the stock -follows.</p> - -<p>In commencing to keep bees, if possible start with -good, strong, healthy stocks, in the right kind of a hive; -then you will have no difficulty in changing them. But -if this cannot possibly be done, be sure to start with -strong, healthy stocks. If you must take second-class -hives, of this class the plain movable comb and box -hives are best. But be sure to let the patent hives entirely -alone; they are a curse to the bee-keeper. If you get -your bees in second-class hives, transfer them to Controllable -Hives, or as fast as they swarm put them in Controllable -Hives. In this way you will soon have your -bees in shape to pay you a good profit.</p> - -<p>When you begin keeping bees, study closely their -natural habits and requirements. Give them such care -and attention as your judgement and present knowledge -teaches they require. Persevere, and ultimate success -is certain.</p> - -<p>Every one who attains success with bees, will find that -there is something more to be done, than simply to stand -with folded hands, with the expectation that a fortune -must inevitably follow. Know the precise condition of -your bees at all times—whether they are weak or strong, -whether they are without a queen, or whether the queen -has become so old as to have passed her usefulness. -After a period of years, queens become barren, and unless -they are removed, and a young queen substituted, the -bees will rapidly decline in numbers, and all disappear -from the hive in a few weeks or months.</p> - -<p>It cannot be too strongly urged upon the beginner, -this great necessity of securing strong, healthy stocks to -begin with; and if possible, get them in the Controllable -Hives. All who do not fully understand the management -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">- 124 -</span> -and nature of bees would save themselves much trouble -and perplexity, by procuring, to begin with, one or more -healthy colonics in the Controllable Hive. Your chances -of success in the end, and your profits of the first season, -are greater from one swarm in this hive, than from six in -second-class hives. If you purchase bees in inferior hives, -you will need to exercise great care that they are not -diseased. There is not one box or patent hive in fifty (as -ordinarily managed) but that is deceased. They are -either badly infested with the bee moth, have old, mouldy -black combs, an old and diseased queen, or are in some -way diseased. No matter how low the price paid for -such stocks, they will be found expensive. Be sure to -get none but the best to commence with; they are the -cheapest in the end.</p> - -<p>I might illustrate this with many cases that have come -under my observation. One or two I will mention: A -gentlemen in Connecticut ordered of me a swarm of -Italian bees in the Controllable Hive, in the spring of -1880, for which he paid me twenty dollars. He wrote -me in June that they were doing finely, and that he never -saw bees work so well—they were at work in all the -boxes, some of them being nearly filled with honey, and -all the combs being filled with bees at work storing; and -from appearances he should get a large amount of surplus -box honey from them.</p> - -<p>Another gentleman wrote me, almost the same time, -asking my price for a swarm of Italian bees, and when -informed that it was twenty dollars, he wrote me that as -he could get the Italian bees nearer his home for ten -dollars, he would not order of me, but would invest his -twenty dollars and get two swarms instead of one. He -has since written me that one of the swarms for which -he paid ten dollars he has lost outright, leaving him only -a mass of moth worms in old and mouldy black combs. -The other has proved to be queenless, and has caused him -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">- 125 -</span> -more trouble and perplexity than it is worth, to say the -least. There is now not over a pint of bees in the hive, -but he has put in a queen and hopes to save them from -total loss.</p> - -<p>I know of another case where a gentleman bought six -swarms of bees in box hives. They were very heavy -and he thought of course they were all right. He knew -nothing of the diseases of bees, and supposed if they were -heavy, and had honey enough, that was all that was -necessary. He bought them in the fall at a very low -price, and was much elated over his purchase. Five -of the six swarms died during the winter, and the remaining -one came out in the spring so weak as to be no -profit whatever the next season; and the next winter that -also died.</p> - -<p>It is an established fact that to succeed well with bees -they must be kept in hives suited to their habits and -requirements, and with the view of rendering them profitable. -Such is the Controllable Hive. And they must be -managed on principles in accordance with nature's laws, -and the instincts and habits of the honey bee. Such is -the new system recommended in this book—Bee Keeping Reduced -to a Science; no "luck," no "guess-work," -no "chance" about it.</p> - -<p>Trusting that this little work may be the means of -greatly increasing the profits of bees, I bring it to a -close.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 108px;"> - <img src="images/queen_bee.png" width="108" height="130" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"> - -<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p> - -<p>Minor typos have been corrected. The upper corner of pages 85 and 86 -(back-to-back pages) was torn off. The missing text was obtained from -another copy of the publication. The cover images were compiled from -images made available by the Internet Archive and placed in the Public -Domain.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE KEEPING FOR PROFIT. A NEW SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT (1880) ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. 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