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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #67784 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67784)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sussex Painted By Wilfrid Ball, by
-Wilfrid Ball
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Sussex Painted By Wilfrid Ball
-
-Author: Wilfrid Ball
-
-Release Date: April 6, 2022 [eBook #67784]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
-             http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
-             available at The Internet Archive)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUSSEX PAINTED BY WILFRID
-BALL ***
-
-
-
-
-
-                              CORRIGENDA
-
-                     [Corrections made in EBook.]
-
-
-                    Page 48, line 14,
-                    “eastern” _should be_ “western.”
-
-                    Page 82, last word on page,
-                    “Shoreham” _should be_ “Seaford.”
-
-                    Page 91, line 14,
-                    “Beechy Head” _should be_ “Beachy Head.”
-
-
-
-
-                                SUSSEX
-
-                          A COMPANION VOLUME
-
-                          IN THE SAME SERIES
-
-
-                                WESSEX
-
-                       PAINTED BY WALTER TYNDALE
-
-                      DESCRIBED BY CLIVE HOLLAND
-
-           CONTAINING =75= FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
-
-                           PRICE =20s.= NET
-
-                          Post free, 20s. 6d.
-
-   Mr. THOMAS HARDY, writing to Mr. Tyndale concerning his pictures
-  reproduced in this volume, says: “...to their fidelity both in form
-    and colour I can testify. And you seem to have conveyed in your
-renderings that under-picture, as one may say, that mood or temperament
-  that pertains to each particular spot portrayed and to no other on
-                                earth.”
-
-Mr. Clive Holland writes in sympathy with Mr. Tyndale’s pictures, and he
- presents Wessex, its people, its story and romance, in an attractive
-                     form for the general reader.
-
-
-                             PUBLISHED BY
-                A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
-
-
-                                AGENTS
-
-            AMERICA   THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
-                                   64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
-
-            CANADA    THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.
-                                   27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO
-
-            INDIA     MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
-                                   MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY
-                                   309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA
-
-[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF BATTLE]
-
-
-
-
-                                SUSSEX
-
-                          PAINTED BY WILFRID
-                        BALL, R.E. · PUBLISHED
-                           BY ADAM & CHARLES
-                          BLACK·LONDON·MCMVI
-
-                            [Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
-PART I
-
-                                                                    PAGE
-
-THE PHYSICAL NATURE OF THE COUNTY                                      1
-
-
-PART II
-
-THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF SUSSEX                                  47
-
-
-PART III
-
-THE INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER OF SUSSEX AND THE WAY
-TO SEE THE COUNTY                                                    143
-
-
-INDEX                                                                191
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-1. The Village of Battle                                   _Frontispiece_
-
-                                                             FACING PAGE
-
-2. Market Cross, Alfriston                                             2
-
-3. Hastings, Fishing Fleet                                             4
-
-4. Bosham                                                              6
-
-5. Mayfield                                                            8
-
-6. Chichester Cross                                                   10
-
-7. Lyminster                                                          12
-
-8. Bury, from the Arun                                                14
-
-9. Sussex Hills                                                       16
-
-10. The Rother                                                        18
-
-11. Cold Waltham                                                      20
-
-12. Fittleworth Bridge                                                22
-
-13. Coates                                                            24
-
-14. Amberley Village                                                  28
-
-15. Bramber Castle                                                    32
-
-16. South Harting                                                     34
-
-17. The Swan Hotel, Fittleworth                                       36
-
-18. Arundel Castle (Evening)                                          38
-
-19. The Town Clock, Steyning                                          40
-
-20. The Rother at Fittleworth                                         42
-
-21. Rye                                                               44
-
-22. Church Street, Steyning                                           46
-
-23. Farmhouse, Leys Green                                             50
-
-24. Near Pevensey                                                     52
-
-25. Lych Gate, Pulborough                                             56
-
-26. Pulborough                                                        58
-
-27. Hartfield, The Inn                                                60
-
-28. Ewhurst                                                           62
-
-29. Malling Mill                                                      66
-
-30. Fishbourne Mill                                                   68
-
-31. St. Mary’s Church, Rye                                            70
-
-32. Fittleworth Village                                               72
-
-33. Groombridge                                                       76
-
-34. Bosham (Mill Bridge)                                              78
-
-35. West Ham                                                          80
-
-36. Lewes Castle                                                      82
-
-37. Garden of the Moated House, Groombridge                           84
-
-38. Pevensey Castle                                                   86
-
-39. Cliffs near Eastbourne                                            88
-
-40. Mayfield                                                          90
-
-41. Winchelsea                                                        92
-
-42. The Star Inn, Alfriston                                           94
-
-43. Hastings, The Shore                                               96
-
-44. Hurstmonceaux Castle                                              98
-
-45. Bodiam Castle                                                    102
-
-46. Arundel Castle                                                   104
-
-47. Amberley Chalk Pits                                              106
-
-48. Midhurst, Knock Hundred Row                                      108
-
-49. Amberley Church                                                  110
-
-50. Mermaid Street, Rye                                              114
-
-51. Singleton                                                        116
-
-52. Gatehouse, Battle Abbey                                          118
-
-53. Winchelsea Mill                                                  120
-
-54. Glynde                                                           124
-
-55. Angmering Mill                                                   126
-
-56. Near Hardham                                                     128
-
-57. Mickleham Priory                                                 130
-
-58. The Mermaid Inn, Rye                                             132
-
-59. Bury Church                                                      134
-
-60. Fittleworth Water Mill                                           142
-
-61. High Street, East Grinstead                                      144
-
-62. Cottages at Mayfield                                             146
-
-63. Crowborough Heath                                                152
-
-64. Rye from Camber                                                  154
-
-65. Hartfield                                                        156
-
-66. Pulborough Marsh                                                 160
-
-67. King Richard’s Walk, Chichester Cathedral                        164
-
-68. Old Whiting Mill, Midhurst                                       168
-
-69. Mill Pool, Midhurst                                              170
-
-70. Beachy Head                                                      178
-
-71. Willingdon                                                       180
-
-72. Boat-building at Rye                                             182
-
-73. Old Shoreham Bridge                                              184
-
-74. The Arun, near Pulborough                                        186
-
-75. Bosham                                                           188
-
-
-_Sketch Map at end of Volume._
-
-
-_The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved and printed in
-England by the Hentschel Colour-type process._
-
-
-
-
-                                SUSSEX
-
-
-
-
-PART I
-
-THE PHYSICAL NATURE OF THE COUNTY
-
-
-The English counties differ in two ways from the divisions into which
-other European countries have fallen: in the first place, they are
-somewhat smaller than the average division, natural or artificial, of
-other countries; and in the second place, they have in many cases a more
-highly-specialised life. Both these features have been of great value in
-building up the history of England, and, before one sets out to
-understand any county, it is always worth one’s while to remember them
-and to appreciate their importance in our national development.
-
-The strong local character of counties is more discoverable in some than
-in others. Thus Cheshire with its distinctive plain; Cornwall with its
-peculiar racial and, till recently, linguistic features; Devon, all
-grouped round one great lump of hills, almost make little nations by
-themselves. Again, those who are acquainted with the north of England
-will mark the quite separate character which Durham contrasts against
-Yorkshire on the south and Northumberland upon the north. There are
-other districts where several counties group themselves together, and
-where the whole group differs more from the rest of England than do the
-separate counties of the group one from another. This is particularly
-the case with East Anglia, and to some extent it is the case with the
-Shires.
-
-When (to return to the case of particular counties) some strong local
-differential is discoverable it can nearly always be traced to a
-combination of historical and topographical causes. It is our business
-to examine these first in an appreciation of the county of Sussex.
-
-Sussex was created from the sea. Its inhabitants and its invaders at all
-periods, save perhaps in the height of the Roman prosperity, and again
-during the last hundred and fifty years, have had a difficulty in going
-northward, because there spread north of the most habitable region the
-long belt of what is called the Weald. Sussex is, in a word, a great
-range of hills along the south coast inhabited upon either slope and
-upon either plain
-
-[Illustration: MARKET CROSS, ALFRISTON]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-at either base, but cut off from the Thames valley by a soil long
-uncultivated and more suited to forest than to habitation.
-
-[Sidenote: THE HARBOURS]
-
-From the coast side it presents a number of clearly-defined harbours,
-from which it has evidently been colonised, and from which we know it to
-have been invaded; these harbours are the mouths of its small, parallel,
-characteristic rivers--the Arun, the Adur, the Ouse, the Cuckmere, and
-the Rother. Of natural harbours other than the mouths of the rivers it
-now has none, though it is probable that in the remote past plains,
-which are now dry land guarded by small elevations (as for example,
-Pevensey and Winchelsea), formed natural harbours afterwards
-artificially developed. These harbours are small for our modern scale of
-shipping, and the strong tide that runs in them is rather a disadvantage
-than otherwise for those who use them to-day. But in early times such
-tides were nothing but an advantage, and the smaller draft and beam of
-the shipping found ample accommodation in the river mouths. It is also
-to be noted that these river mouths stood at fairly even distances one
-from the other. There is not in the whole length of the coast of
-England, from the South Foreland to Penzance, a strip of coast so
-exactly divided by refuges set at regular distances into which small
-craft can run. Moreover, Sussex also provides a multitude of those even,
-sloping, and safe beaches which were of such immense importance to early
-navigators, with whom the beaching of a whole fleet was among the
-commonest ways of effecting a landing. The typical Sussex example of
-this early advantage and of a town springing around it is, of course, to
-be discovered at Hastings.
-
-It may next be inquired what limits eastward and westward existed to
-form natural boundaries for the county. This is a point of great
-interest which has been but little examined, but which a consideration
-of the geography of Sussex should make sufficiently plain. The early
-settlements along the river mouths were grouped together in one
-countryside by the comparative facility of communication along the
-sea-plain, and again by the comparative facility of communication along
-the well-watered belt to the north of the Downs. It may be imagined that
-the settlements around the harbours of the Ouse, of the Arun, and of the
-Adur, would, from the earliest times, have been in touch with each other
-along the flat of the coast, and that their extensions along the river
-valleys to
-
-[Illustration: HASTINGS--FISHING FLEET]
-
-the north of the hills, as also the separate harbour at the mouth of the
-Rother, would equally have been in communication by that ancient track
-most of which subsists to this day, and of which further mention will be
-made later on in these pages. But, when the primitive inhabitant
-attempted a similar communication eastward into what is now Kent, or
-westward with what is now Hampshire, his way was barred by two great
-tongues of marsh.
-
-[Sidenote: THE MARSHES]
-
-Traces of these marshes still exist after two thousand years of
-cultivation, and in the very earliest times they must have presented a
-most formidable obstacle to travel. The one group which lies to the east
-of the valley of the Rother is still in part undrained; the other, which
-forms a mass of tidal creeks and inlets round about Hayling Island,
-Bosham, and Chichester harbour, is almost equally difficult. These two,
-then, set the limits of the county; for marsh is, of all obstacles, the
-most considerable at the beginning of a civilisation, as it is the least
-remembered in the height of one. It cannot be forded as can a stream,
-nor swum nor sailed upon; mere effort, such as that required for the
-climbing of mountains, is of no avail against it, and, whereas some
-considerable toil _will_ clear a track through a forest, and a track
-which, in our climate at least, can be maintained, once it is formed,
-with little labour, no such effort is of avail to primitive man in
-attempting to cross a morass. To drain it is quite beyond his power, and
-the formation of a causeway of hard land is, even in our own day, a most
-expensive and long process, as those readers who are acquainted with the
-history of our engineering will remember when they recall the building
-of the Manchester and Liverpool Railway across Chat Moss.
-
-It may be remarked in passing that there are scattered up and down
-England many examples of the difficulties which Fenland and bog present
-to an imperfect civilisation, and these are to be found in the
-“Stretfords,” “Stratfords,” “Standfords,” etc., which invariably mark a
-place where a hard Roman road was conducted across a river and its
-adjoining wet lands. In such places the straight line of the old Roman
-road can usually be traced, and one can also usually see how the modern
-road follows a devious track given to it after the decline of the Roman
-civilisation, when the imperial ways had been allowed to decay, and the
-half-barbarian traveller of the Dark Ages picked his way as best he
-could from one dry patch to another. These
-
-[Illustration: BOSHAM]
-
-deviations of the modern from the Roman lines across rivers and marshes
-in England are one of the most striking evidences of the gulf into which
-civilisation sank after the advent of the Saxon pirates.
-
-[Sidenote: DATE OF TOWNS]
-
-Sussex, then, has been naturally delimited in its growth by the forest
-of the Weald all along the north, and by these two groups of marshes at
-the extreme east and west of the county; and the older our record the
-greater importance assumed by towns within reach of, or upon, the sea.
-Thus Midhurst, Petworth, Pulboro, Horsham, Mayfield, Battle, come all of
-them comparatively late in the history of the development of the county.
-Chichester, Arundel, Lewes, Hastings, Pevensey, come early in that
-development, and so does Bramber with its harbour of Old Shoreham.
-Pevensey and Chichester are associated with a Roman name; Bramber, or
-rather its neighbour Shoreham, and Pevensey (again) with the first of
-the Saxon invasions. Arundel with the reign of King Alfred; Hastings and
-(for the third time) Pevensey with the Norman invasion; whereas the
-other towns that lie in a belt northward upon the edge of the Weald are
-not heard of till the Middle Ages.
-
-The present boundaries of the county are necessarily somewhat
-artificial, though they conform fairly closely to the natural features
-which we have just been considering. Their artificiality is most easily
-seen along the north. The true line of division should run along the
-ridge of the forests: St Leonards and Ashdown.
-
-As a fact, political and organised Sussex overlaps this ridge and takes
-in part of what is geographically Surrey upon the north. The reason of
-this is that during many centuries the Weald was so sparsely inhabited
-that the Surrey villages under the North Downs, and the Sussex villages
-under the South Downs, thrust out long extensions into the forest, a
-custom which gave to those parishes a most peculiar shape. They were
-drawn into strips, as it were, whose inhabitants dwelt clustered at one
-end of the elongated band. A phenomenon of much the same kind is to be
-discovered along the St. Lawrence in Canada, where each village
-clustered upon the river claims a long strip of hinterland behind it
-into the forest of the north.
-
-The line of division between these Surrey parishes, which stretched out
-southwards into the forest and these Sussex villages which stretched out
-northward to meet them, was probably never clearly defined, and was,
-indeed, of little importance. The
-
-[Illustration: MAYFIELD]
-
-[Sidenote: PARISHES OF WEALD]
-
-farther one got from the village church and the group of houses, the
-less it mattered under whose jurisdiction one fell, and when, with the
-growth of civilisation and the necessity for exact boundaries, a line
-was at last drawn, it was drawn somewhat in favour of the Sussex
-parishes, whose manorial lords were of greater political importance than
-those of Surrey: for the reason that they held the great castles which
-defended the south of England. It was, presumably, in this way that the
-ribbon of land which lies to the north of the forest ridge came to be
-included within the political boundaries of the modern county.
-
-Viewed in the light of such a development from the sea, the topography
-of Sussex falls into a comparatively simple scheme.
-
-The whole county is determined by the great line of chalk hills which
-stand steep up against the Weald, that is, with their escarpment facing
-northward, and which slope gradually towards the sea plain upon the
-south in such a fashion, that a section taken anywhere in that range
-resembles in form a wave driven forward by the south-west wind and just
-about to break over the Weald. It is not the least of the unities which
-render Sussex so harmonious that this main range of the South Downs,
-which are the strong framework of the whole county, should have all the
-appearance of being blown forward into its shape by those Atlantic gales
-which also determine the configuration of the trees in the sea-plain and
-upon the slopes of the hills.
-
-Were this range of the South Downs to run parallel to the sea throughout
-the length of the county the topographical scheme of which we are
-speaking could be set forth in very few words. The whole county would
-fall at once and without qualification into four long parallel belts:
-the sea-plain, the Downs next inland to it, the belt of old villages at
-the foot of the Downs to the north (that is, the southern edge of the
-Weald), and the forest ridge to the north of the whole. As a fact,
-however, these lines, though parallel to one another, are not strictly
-parallel to the sea coast; they tilt somewhat from the north-west to the
-south-east, so that the plan of the county resembles a piece of stuff
-woven in four broad bands which have been cut in bias, or, as the phrase
-goes, “on the cross.” Each belt has, therefore, its termination on the
-sea. The coastal plain gets narrower and narrower, and comes to an end
-at Brighton; the Chalk Downs run into the sea just beyond this point,
-and are cut off, in sharp white cliffs all along Seaford Bay, in a
-
-[Illustration: CHICHESTER CROSS]
-
-face of white precipice which culminates at Beachy Head. The southern
-Weald and the flats, which run all across the county just north of the
-Downs, come to the sea in that great even stretch between Eastbourne and
-Hastings for which the general name is Pevensey Level; and, finally, the
-somewhat complicated and diversified forest ridge, with its mixture of
-clay and sand, runs into the sea in the neighbourhood of Hastings.
-
-[Sidenote: THE FOUR BELTS]
-
-These four great belts may be traced, not only in the relief of the
-county, but also in its superficial geology; the sea plain is throughout
-of a deep, strong, brown loamy soil, among the most fertile in England,
-and fetching by far the highest rents paid anywhere in the county. In
-the best of its stretch, between Chichester and Worthing, it is from
-four to six miles broad, closely inhabited and, though recently marred
-by the growth of a whole string of watering-places, still preserving a
-very characteristic life of its own. Except Chichester no town of any
-antiquity stands upon it, but it nourishes a great number of prosperous
-agricultural villages, the size and the architecture of whose churches
-are sufficient to prove their economic condition in the past.
-
-Among the most characteristic of these is Yapton, which is supposed to
-be the “tun” or hamlet of Eappa--a comrade of St. Wilfred’s, the
-missionary and the first bishop of the county. Lyminster is another
-excellent example of what these places were in the past, and its great
-church is the more striking from the decay of the parish around it.
-
-The forest ridge (to take the farther boundary first) has, though
-somewhat confused, a geological characteristic of its own, for it
-consists of sand rising from and mixed with the clay of the Weald. This
-clay, in its turn, lying between the forest ridge and the Downs, though
-diversified by occasional outcrops of sand, is fairly uniform. From the
-beginning it has been covered, not very thickly, but very generally,
-with those short, strong oaks which have furnished the timber for all
-the old buildings of the county. We will turn later to the question of
-whether this stiff and somewhat ungrateful soil of the Weald was ever
-wholly uninhabited: in this initial survey it must suffice to remark
-that even to-day the development of that soil is difficult. Places
-specially favoured with good water have been occupied for centuries, and
-form at the present time the market towns of the Weald. The spaces
-between them are remarkable
-
-[Illustration: LYMINSTER]
-
-[Sidenote: WATER ON THE WEALD]
-
-for the isolation of their farmhouses, and to-day for the way in which
-the Londoner is discovering to his cost the stubborn nature of the
-county. Modern invention, and especially the invention of the motor car,
-has made this situation tempting enough to townsmen, but the new
-buildings which they attempt to found upon places whose desertion is
-incomprehensible to them are met with continual difficulties. The water
-is often bad, the soil much damper in winter than the summer
-promised--for these experiments are nearly always the result of a first
-view taken in the height of summer. The long, and often futile, digging
-for good water, the cost of pumping it when, if ever, it is found,
-combine to make the new attempts at building on the clay of the Weald
-grow slacker as time proceeds. There are, however, more grateful
-opportunities scattered here and there in those outcrops of sand and
-gravel of which I have spoken. Haywards Heath has grown up in this way,
-and there are a multitude of villages half-way between the forest ridge
-and the Downs which owe the greater part of their beauty to the sharp
-contours of the sandstone.
-
-These outcrops have formed centres of population from the very earliest
-times, as, for example, at Burton, Egdean, Thakeham, Ashington, and in
-many other places.
-
-This belt of clay interspersed with occasional heights of sand, and
-lying between the forest ridge and the Downs, is the broadest of the
-four; it is rarely less than ten miles in width and often as much as
-fifteen. Just between it and the escarpment of the Downs runs a narrow
-belt of green-sand, and again, right under the hills, a narrow belt of
-loam, which last affords almost the best arable land in this part of the
-county. It is this narrow belt of loam which has given their value to a
-procession of famous estates under the shadow of the hills, as Heyshott,
-where was Cobden’s Farm; Graffham; Lavington, which was Sargent land,
-and of which Wilberforce and Manning were in turn the squires; Burton,
-which was the first to appear in history; West Burton; Bignor, which the
-Romans developed; Bury, upon the Arun. To some extent Parrham, the most
-typical of Sussex houses, and Wistons, the best example of the
-renaissance, draw their wealth from this narrow belt of loam, as,
-farther east, does New Timber, and many another great house. The list
-might be extended indefinitely.
-
-This long stretch under the escarpment of the
-
-[Illustration: BURY, FROM THE ARUN]
-
-[Sidenote: THE BRITISH TRACK]
-
-Downs contains, perhaps, the oldest remaining monument of man’s activity
-in the county: all the way from Heyshott to Ditchling Beacon, and, as it
-is claimed, even right on to Lewes, there runs what is evidently a
-prehistoric trackway. Its antiquity is proved by many indications, but
-chiefly by this, that it has sunk deep, even into the hardest soils.
-There is a point near Sutton, under Cold Harbour Hill, where it is
-perhaps twelve feet below the general level of the soil, and there are
-many places where it is over six. This old way, which is utilised almost
-throughout the whole of its length by modern lanes, links up centres of
-population which are as old, one must imagine, as the existence of
-mankind in this island. Their names are those which we have just seen in
-connection with the great estates to which these villages
-belong--Lavington, Bignor, Bury, Amberley, Storrington, Washington,
-Steyning, Bramber, Povnings, Fulcking, and so on eastwards to Lewes.
-
-It was not only the fertility of the loam, nor only the proximity of the
-Weald for a hunting-ground, that produced these little prehistoric
-villages, but also the excellent supply of water.
-
-Sussex is, perhaps, of all the English counties that one in which it is
-most difficult to find good water, as we have already seen in speaking
-of the Weald, and as we shall see further when we come to talk of the
-Chalk Downs. But these little villages, standing as they do just upon
-the crack where the chalk (which is permeable and full of water like a
-sponge) comes sharp on to the impermeable soil of the Weald, are all fed
-by a multitude of delicious running streams filtered through hundreds of
-feet of the pure carbon of the hills and bursting out along the old
-road. They turn mills, they water orchards and small closes, they spread
-into teeming fish-ponds, and have, more than any other cause, created
-these little villages. There is hardly one without its stream.
-
-Having reviewed these three belts--the coast-plain, the forest ridge,
-and the southern belt of the Weald--it remains for us to describe that
-which is by far the most important, namely, the South Downs. It will be
-necessary to devote to those hills a closer attention than we have given
-to the rest of the county, for one may call them, without much
-exaggeration, the county itself. Sussex is Sussex on account of the
-South Downs. Their peculiar landscape, their soil, their uniformity,
-give the county all its meaning.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-[Illustration: SUSSEX HILLS]
-
-[Sidenote: THE CHALK-RANGES]
-
-The principal hill ranges of South England, the Chilterns, the Cotswold,
-the Mendips, the North and South Downs, the Dorset Downs, and the
-Berkshire Downs, roughly converge upon Salisbury Plain. Of the
-importance of that site in the history of our island there is no space
-to speak here, but it is necessary to remember the disposition of the
-ranges in order to appreciate how great a rôle the South Downs must have
-played in the early history of Britain; for they furnished, as did the
-other three great chalk ranges (the Dorset Downs, the North Downs, and
-the Chilterns, with their continuation in the Berkshire Downs), the main
-routes of travel in early times. They were bare of trees, dry, and
-fairly even along their summits, and, save in a few places, they
-afforded a good view upon either side, so that the traveller could in
-primitive times beware of the approach of enemies.
-
-The great mass of chalk which forms the Hampshire Highland splits,
-before the eastern boundary of that county is reached, into two
-branches; the northern one of these runs through Surrey, straight to the
-Medway in Kent, crosses that river, and turns down to meet the sea at
-Dover. The southern branch enters the county of Sussex just beyond
-Petersfield, and thence eastward forms this range of the South Downs.
-
-There is no other stretch of hills precisely like them in Europe; their
-nearest counterpart is that other northern range formed much upon the
-same model, and of the same material, which looks at them from thirty
-miles away across the Weald. They run in one straight wall for sixty
-miles, maintaining throughout that length a similar conformation with a
-similar escarpment turned perpetually to the north; a similar absence of
-water; a similar presence from place to place of groups of beech-trees
-which occasionally crown their highest summits; a similar succession of
-comparatively low passes, and a similar though rarer series of what the
-people of the county call “gaps,” that is, gorges, or rather rounded
-clefts, in which their continuity is completely broken by the passage of
-a river. They are the most uniform, the most striking, and the most
-individual of all the lower ranges to be discovered in this island or in
-neighbouring countries. They might be compared by a traveller to the
-line of the Argonne, or to the steep, even hills above the Moselle
-before it enters German territory. But they are more of one kind than
-are even these united ranges. Coming upon
-
-[Illustration: THE ROTHER]
-
-[Sidenote: NATURE OF SOUTH DOWNS]
-
-them from the north, as so many do now, motoring and bicycling south
-from London, their steep, sharp face showing black with the daylight
-behind it, is the principal feature of the south-east of England.
-
-Their contours depend, of course, upon the chalk of which they are
-built. This lies in regular layers five, six, and sometimes eight
-hundred feet deep from their summits to the level of the plain beneath
-them. It is weathered into rounded shapes that have no peaks and no
-precipices, or at least no precipices save those which man has
-deliberately created, where he has dug straight out of their sides for
-chalk, or where they meet the sea and are washed into perpendicular
-cliffs. These rounded lines of theirs against the sky, when one is
-travelling along them, seem in some way to add to their loneliness, and
-that loneliness is among the most striking of their features.
-
-They have never been built upon; it is to be believed (and profoundly to
-be hoped) they never will be built upon. The depth to which wells have
-to be sunk before water can be found is so great as to check any
-experiment of this kind. There is in the whole skyline, from Petersfield
-right to Beachy Head, not a single human habitation to break the noble
-aspect of these hills against the sky save one offensive shed, or what
-not, just north of Brighton where, it may be presumed, the economic
-powers of vulgarism are too strong even for the Downs.
-
-Cultivation is also very rare upon them. They are covered with a short,
-dense, and very sweet turf suited to the famous flocks of sheep which
-browse upon them, and of little value for any other agricultural purpose
-than the pasturage thus afforded.
-
-Those who best know the Downs and have lived among them all their lives
-can testify how, for a whole day’s march, one may never meet a man’s
-face; or if one meets it, it will be the face of some shepherd who may
-be standing lonely with his dog beside him upon the flank of the green
-hill and with his flock scattered all around. The isolation of these
-summits is the more remarkable from the pressure of population which is
-growing so rapidly to the south of them, and which is beginning to
-threaten the Weald to their north. But no modern change seems to affect
-the character of these lonely stretches of grass, and it may be noted
-with satisfaction that, when those ignorant of the nature of Sussex
-attempt to violate the security of the Downs, that experiment of theirs
-is commonly attended with misfortune.
-
-[Illustration: COLD WALTHAM]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX RIVERS]
-
-Thus an open space of park-land beyond Madehurst invited the eye of a
-very wealthy man (presumably from the north) somewhat more than a
-century ago. He had not, indeed, the folly to build upon the crest of
-the hills, but he built not far from their summits for the pleasure that
-the view afforded him. The house was large and pretentious. To this day
-it depends for its water upon chance rains, and in the drought it pays
-for water as one may have to do for any other valuable thing.
-
-We have seen that the unison of the Downs is broken by a certain number
-of regular gaps--the valleys, that is, of the Wealden rivers. For the
-rivers of Sussex, by an accident which geologists have attempted to
-explain, are not determined by the rise of these great hills, but on the
-contrary cut right through them from the Weald to the sea. The Arun,
-from the Wealden town of Pulborough to its seaport of Littlehampton, the
-little Adur from various sources round by Shipley and Cuckfield to its
-harbour town of Shoreham, the Ouse from the Wealden town of Uckfield to
-its harbour town of Newhaven, all cut right through the chalk hills and
-form narrow, level valleys of alluvial soil between one section of the
-Downs and the next.
-
-These valleys where they cut through the Downs were never used for
-roads before modern times. The good road along the little Adur to
-Shoreham is fairly old, but it must be remembered that at this point the
-Downs come very close to the sea. Along the Ouse and along the Arun no
-road was attempted until quite lately. There does now exist, and perhaps
-has existed for two or three hundred years past, a road from Lewes to
-the mouth of the Ouse, but even to-day there is none along the Arun
-valley. The soil was too marshy for such a road to be constructed in
-early times, and the dry hill-way once fixed and metalled has become the
-only permanent road to Arundel.
-
-The afforesting of the range of the Downs is worthy of remark. The woods
-are of two kinds--those that crown the foot-hills towards the sea and
-here and there the high slopes of the Downs themselves, and those that
-have caught on to the slight alluvial drift of the hollows. In both
-cases they are principally of beech, while in the open around them,
-along the old tracks and clinging to the crest of the escarpments, are
-lines of very ancient and somewhat stunted yews. In both cases, whether
-over the round of the hills or in their hollows, the Sussex woods are
-somewhat limited in extent and fairly clear of undergrowth. Through all
-the forest
-
-[Illustration: FITTLEWORTH BRIDGE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE BEECH AND THE YEW]
-
-known as the Nore Wood a man can ride his horse in pretty well any
-direction without following a path; the same is true of Houghton Forest
-and of the other large woods of the Downs. This ease they owe to two
-things: first, the character of the beech-trees, which forms under its
-branches a thick bed of mast, out of which but few spears of greenery
-will show; and, secondly, that quality of the chalk by which (to the
-salvation of Sussex!) it is but slightly fertile, and by which it
-therefore preserves itself intact from the invasion of man. Indeed, it
-is remarkable that the two trees of the Downs, the yew and the beech,
-both make for a clear soil, and there is a proverb in those parts--
-
-    Under the Beech and th’ Yow
-    Nowt’ll grow.
-
-The valleys of the Downs differ very much according to whether they are
-upon the south or upon the north of the range. Those to the south are
-valleys of erosion, shallow, broad, and funnel-shaped, with their wide
-mouths opening towards the sea and the south-west wind. They are usually
-called _Stenes_,--a word which is sometimes spelt “_Steine_,”--the best
-known of which hollows is the valley running through Brighton. There are
-any number between that point and Goodwood. In their lower parts they
-support farmhouses, and occasionally they carry one of the great roads
-which cross the Downs from the north. They are wind-swept, and hold the
-snow very late; but in summer they are among the most sheltered corners
-of South England.
-
-Upon the north the steep escarpment of the hills forbids any such
-conformation. Here the valleys take the shape of very steep hollows of a
-horseshoe outline known as _combes_, a Celtic word, and frequently hung
-with deep woods which are known both here and in Kent (and in other
-parts of the south country) as _hangers_. The most sombre and the most
-silent of these are perhaps those of Burton, Lavington, and Bury.
-
-The woods upon the slopes, the foot-hills, and the summits are of a
-different order. Those upon the actual crests are commonly artificial,
-and are known as “clumps” or “rings.” The Dukes of Richmond have planted
-a few such near Goodwood, but the most famous is the great landmark of
-Chanctonbury Ring, above Wiston, which is a resting-point for the eye
-not only up and down forty miles of the Channel, but also up and down
-forty miles of the opposing northern range. The woods of the foot-hills
-and of the slopes are, on the
-
-[Illustration: NEAR COATES]
-
-[Sidenote: DEW PANS]
-
-contrary, primeval--as can be proved from the absence beneath them of
-Roman or prehistoric remains.
-
-It has already been remarked that the hydrographical system of the South
-Downs is a peculiar one, that the rivers of Sussex are in no way
-determined as to their courses by that range of hills, and that the
-heights themselves are devoid of water, because all that falls upon them
-percolates through the chalk and does not spring out again until it
-finds the clay at their base. But there is upon the Downs a traditional
-method of water-getting handed down, perhaps, from prehistoric times
-when the camps of refuge, of which we shall speak in a moment, were hard
-put to it to water their garrisons. This method is the formation of dew
-pans. A space is hollowed out, preferably towards the summit of a hill.
-It is circular and shallow in form, and is coated with some impermeable
-substance--to-day, usually, with concrete. In a very short time this pan
-will fill with the dew and the rain, and in such a pond, if its
-dimensions are sufficiently large, there will but rarely be lack of
-water after it is once formed. It is true that no great strain is laid
-upon them, though the present writer does know of one case, outside the
-boundaries of the county, where a large one has been constructed to
-supply all the needs of a considerable household.
-
-A further matter which every one who is familiar with them must have
-remarked upon the Downs, is the presence of numerous earthworks raised
-apparently for defence, and often of very great size. The classical
-instances of these and the most perfect examples are upon Mount Caburn
-and Cissbury, one of the foot-hills towards the sea, upon which research
-has proved that the prehistoric, the Roman, and the barbarian pirate
-inhabitants have lived in succession. Here was discovered that regular
-manufactory of flint instruments which is among the most curious prizes
-of modern prehistoric research, and here also Roman and Saxon ornaments
-have been found succeeding those of the neolithic men.
-
-But though Cissbury is the most perfect, it is but one of very many
-similar camps. There is hardly one of the greater summits of the Downs
-that does not bear traces of these enclosures, and upon some of the
-hills, notably east of Ambery and again east of Bramber, they are as
-perfect as they are enormous. There can be little doubt that they were
-created for the purposes of defence, and the late General Pitt-Rivers
-conducted an
-
-[Sidenote: THE TUMULI]
-
-exhaustive inquiry into the number of men that would be required to
-garrison them, upon their structure, positions, and numbers in this and
-other countries. But the historical, or rather prehistoric problem which
-they present does not end with the discovery of their original use, for
-it is difficult to understand, first, where the multitudes can have come
-from which sufficed to man such considerable embankments; and, secondly,
-where provision, and above all water, can have been found for such
-garrisons; for though, as we have seen, the dew pans will always furnish
-water in certain amounts, they would never have sufficed for the large
-numbers which alone could hold from half-a-mile to a mile of rampart and
-ditch.
-
-Associated with these old camps are the tumuli to be found throughout
-the whole length of the Downs, especially upon their main ridge. But the
-reader who is interested in such things must be warned against accepting
-too uncritically the evidence of the Ordnance Survey upon this matter.
-In the majority of cases it is right, especially with regard to the very
-interesting group of tombs just beyond the kennels at Upwaltham, above
-the Chichester road where it crosses the Downs at Duncton Hill; but
-there is at least one case, and there are probably others, where the
-heaps of material accumulated in the making of the roads have been
-erroneously ascribed to our prehistoric ancestors, and, if the present
-writer is not mistaken, there is an error of this kind marked upon the
-map close to the new London road which climbs Bury Hill on its way to
-cross the Downs at Whiteways Lodge.
-
-The complete isolation of these heights, their loneliness, and their
-wild charm, is enhanced by a line of towns and of villages especially
-dependent upon them and standing at their feet towards the south. The
-northern line of villages which lies just under their escarpment on the
-edge of the Weald, which we have described as being probably prehistoric
-sites, and which are connected by what has certainly been a prehistoric
-road, are not directly made by or dependent upon the Downs themselves.
-Their farmers are not usually large sheep farmers; their shepherds are
-few; their lives and their industries are those of the plain; their
-building materials are oak and plaster; their inhabitants but rarely
-climb the very steep hillsides immediately above them. The villages and
-towns to the _south_, on the contrary, owe their very existence to the
-Downs, and show in their every aspect the
-
-[Illustration: AMBERLEY VILLAGE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SOUTHERN FORT-HILLS]
-
-influence of the range which backs them and by which they live. From
-these villages proceed the principal flocks of sheep; in one of them,
-Findon, is the principal sheep fair of the country. Their plough lands
-are commonly poor, from the admixture of the last slopes of the chalk;
-their wealth is in flocks and in folds. In the Middle Ages they added to
-this the pannage which the beech mast of their woods afforded to swine.
-Right along from the Hampshire border to where the Downs fall into the
-sea beyond Brighton, from Goodwood that is, through Halnaecker, Eartham,
-Slindon, Arundel, Angmering, Lancing, to Rottingdeane--or rather to what
-Rottingdeane used to be before the æsthetes turned it pure Cockney
-twenty years ago--runs this row of little ancient places which are the
-typical Sussex homes of all.
-
-They grew up, as did those others of which we have spoken, where water
-could be found, and also, it may be presumed, where there was some local
-opportunity for defence now forgotten; the growth of Arundel certainly
-depended upon these two factors, to some extent probably that of Slindon
-(which centres round its great pond), and it may be supposed that of
-Lancing as well.
-
-In their architecture these villages are, as it were, a physical
-outgrowth of the Downs. The oak, which one sees so commonly in the
-Weald, is but rarely present here; the roofs are of thatch, the walls of
-flint.
-
-Flint is, of course, the stone of the chalk, and the supply is unfailing
-because, by a curious phenomenon which has never been thoroughly
-explained, no matter how many flints are taken from the surface of the
-soil, others continue to “sweat up” through the chalk and to take the
-places of those that have been removed; there is never for very long a
-lack of surface flints in the fields adjoining these villages. There are
-some such villages in which every old building without exception, even
-the squire’s house and the church, are entirely built of flint, as are
-the boundary walls of the parks and of the farms. The material has,
-however (at least in the constructions of the last few centuries), one
-great defect, which is that the mortar does not bind it as strongly as
-it will bind brick or stone. This defect has been explained as being due
-to the extremely hard nature of the silex, for to bind material together
-it is essential that the binding flux, the mortar, should penetrate more
-or less into the pores of that which it binds, and for this reason brick
-and stone are
-
-[Sidenote: FLINT-BUILDING]
-
-wetted before being laid upon the mortar. Obviously no wetting can be of
-the least use where one is dealing with flint. Nevertheless, the old
-work of the country is singularly enduring. Of this a first-rate example
-is afforded to the traveller by the one great slab of wall which is all
-that remains of Bramber Castle. Here is a piece of masonry standing
-perpendicularly for perhaps fifty feet in height, not particularly
-thick, made entirely of flint, and yet standing upright in spite of
-sieges and artillery fire, the destruction of all its supports, and the
-passage of at least six hundred years.
-
-It would be for an expert to discuss what were the causes of this
-superior excellence in the older work; but it may be suggested by one
-who has looked closely into several specimens of mediæval
-flint-building, that two rules were almost invariably observed by our
-ancestors before the Reformation. The first was to preserve as carefully
-as possible the natural casing or “skin” of hardened chalk which
-surrounds every large flint, and to have none of the smooth stone
-surface showing except on the outside of the wall. The second was to use
-nothing but the fine sand which the county affords so plentifully in the
-mixing of the mortar. It may be, of course, that here, as in so many
-other cases, the argument applies that we merely imagine the older work
-to be better because the best of it alone survives, but it is at least
-remarkable that hardly any flint work of the last three hundred years
-has come down without some distortion from the perpendicular.
-
-A very marked way of handling this stone is the cutting of the outer
-surface. This treatment is not peculiar to Sussex; it is to be found in
-East Anglia and in other parts of England where flints are common, but
-it is perhaps more general in Sussex than elsewhere, and may have
-originated in this county. The separate dressing of so many small stones
-is an expensive matter, and it is probably the very expense which is so
-incurred, or rather the great expenditure of energy connoted by the
-appearance of such work, which impresses and is designed to impress the
-spectator of it. Perhaps the most perfect specimen of a modern sort is
-the great house at West Deane; but all those who love their county are
-pleased to remark that in the new work at Arundel Castle this true
-Sussex style has been observed.
-
-There is but one further point to be remarked with regard to the Downs
-country, and that is the nature of the communication across the hills.
-
-[Illustration: BRAMBER CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE PASSES]
-
-It has already been said that the main river valleys were not much used
-for such communications; that there is no case of both sides of one of
-the river gaps being so used throughout the whole length of the county;
-and that there is but one case of a road following a river before modern
-times (the case of the old road from Bramber to Shoreham); while to this
-day (it will be remembered) the Arun valley is utilised by nothing but
-the railway.
-
-Crossings from north to south in Sussex, from the Weald to the
-sea-plain, are therefore invariably carried over the crest of the hills,
-and it is a matter for some astonishment that in a county so near
-London, and to reach a district so thickly populated and so wealthy as
-is the South Coast, the passages should be so few. With the exception of
-the Falmer Road from Lewes to Brighton (which can hardly be said to
-cross the main range), there are but five roads leading from the Weald
-to the sea-plain. The main Brighton Road which goes over Clayton Hill,
-the Worthing Road over Washington, the Arundel Road over Bury, the
-Chichester Road over Duncton, and the second Chichester Road over
-Cocking.
-
-The uniformity of type which distinguishes the Downs causes all these
-roads to take much the same section: they choose a low saddle in the
-range (the Arundel Road is something of an exception here, for the
-saddle of Bury Hill is a high one); they rise up very sharply to the
-summit and then fall easily away towards the sea-plain; and though
-Cocking Hill is perhaps the shortest, Bury Hill the longest, of the
-five, it is an error to attempt, as do many who are insufficiently
-acquainted with the county, to avoid the steepness of the ascent by
-taking a detour. All or any one of these roads will try the traveller or
-the machine which he uses, and it must be remembered that these five are
-the only roads of any sort which cross the Downs. Many a track marked as
-crossing them is, when one comes to pursue it, nothing but a “ride” of
-grass in no way different from the rest of the grass of the Downs. All
-these roads have, however, one advantage attached to them, which is the
-astonishing view of the coastal plain which greets one from their
-summits, especially the view from Whiteways and the sudden and
-unexpected panorama at Benges, which is the second and highest summit of
-the Duncton Hill Road.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-This topographical division of our subject cannot
-
-[Illustration: SOUTH HARTING]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX RIVERS]
-
-be concluded without a more particular description of the Sussex rivers.
-Of these the first in importance and the largest is the Arun. It rises
-in a lake which is little known, and which is yet of great beauty, in
-St. Leonard’s Forest, runs as a small and very winding stream through
-Horsham and the northern Wealden parts of the county, and only begins to
-acquire the importance of a true river in the neighbourhood of Stopham.
-Here it is crossed by an old bridge which is itself among the most
-beautiful structures of the county, and which spans the river at one of
-its broadest and most secluded reaches. It is also the true dividing
-line between the Upper and the Lower Arun, because it is the extreme
-limit that the tide has ever reached even under the most favourable
-circumstances of high springs and drought. Just below Stopham there
-falls into the Arun a little river called the Rother, or Western Rother,
-to distinguish it from the Eastern Rother which is the principal stream
-at the other end of the county. This little river, which was canalised
-and usable for traffic until, like all the rest of our waterways, it was
-killed by the railroads, waters a most charming valley strung with towns
-and villages whose names we have already mentioned in another
-connection. At its head is the millpond of Midhurst; it runs through
-the land of Cowdray (which is the great park of Midhurst), past Burton
-Rough, south of Petworth, where it turns one of its several mills, and
-on past Coates and Fittleworth, where it runs close to that inn which
-most English artists know, and the panels of whose coffee-room have been
-painted in landscapes by such various hands.
-
-When the Rother has thus fallen into the Arun, the two streams uniting
-run beneath the houses of Pulborough, and under its bridge, of which the
-reader will hear more when we come to speak of the historical
-development of the county; for this was the spot at which the great
-Roman road which united London with the coastal plain crossed the Arun,
-and the foundations of Pulborough are almost certainly Roman.
-
-From the little hill upon which this town stands one looks south across
-a great expanse of dead level meadow, flanked with sandy hills of pine,
-towards the dark line of the Downs. The river turns and makes for these,
-aiming at the gap which cuts them clean in two just south of Amberley.
-Often during the year these flats are covered with floods, and as the
-river is embanked and the entry of water through the meadows can be
-regulated by sluices,
-
-[Illustration: THE SWAN HOTEL, FITTLEWORTH]
-
-[Sidenote: ARUNDEL GAP]
-
-the pasturage of these flooded levels is of great value. The stream
-rolls on, more and more turbid with the advent of the tide, spreads out
-into the willow thickets of Amberley Wildbrook where there is good
-shooting of snipe, runs on right under Bury, leaving Amberley Castle
-upon the left, passes beneath the causeway and the bridge at Houghton,
-and so enters the Arundel Gap. Here it is completely lonely. There are
-not even small footpaths by which the villages of this narrow valley can
-be reached from the north, though their names of “Southstoke” and
-“Northstoke” indicate an early passage of some sort, for this place-name
-throughout South England refers to the “staking” by which the passage of
-a river was made firm. Two new dykes, cutting off long corners, have
-been dug in the course of this valley, and they take the main stream,
-while the old river runs in a narrow and sluggish course by a long
-detour towards Burpham. The main channel, as it now exists, continues to
-keep to the right hand side of the valley, where it is continually
-overhung by the deep woods of Arundel Park; and at last, a little below
-the Blackrabbit Inn, one sees, jutting out like a spur from the bulk of
-the hills, the great mass of the Castle.
-
-The attitude of Arundel, standing above the river at this point, is
-hardly to be matched by any of the river towns of England. It stands up
-on its steep bank looking right down upon the tidal stream and towards
-the sea. The houses are natural to the place (the hideous new
-experiments upon the further bank are hidden from the river), and all
-the roofs are either old or at least consonant to the landscape, while
-the situation chosen for St. Philip’s Church, and its architecture,
-happen by an accident that is almost unknown in modern work, to be
-exactly suited to the landscape of which it forms the crown, and to
-balance the background of the Castle and the Keep.
-
-Below the bridge at Arundel the Arun becomes a purely maritime river. It
-runs in a deep tidal channel with salt meadows upon either side, and
-with a very violent tide of great height scouring between its
-embankments. There are no buildings directly upon its sides save one
-poor lonely inn and church at Ford, and in seven miles it reaches the
-sea at Littlehampton, pouring into the Channel over one of the
-shallowest and most dangerous bars upon this coast.
-
-The other rivers merit a much briefer attention.
-
-The Adur is but a collection of very small
-
-[Illustration: ARUNDEL CASTLE (EVENING)]
-
-[Sidenote: THE ADUR]
-
-streams which meet in the water meadows above Henfield, where it becomes
-a broad ditch; it cannot be called a true river until it is close upon
-the hill of Bramber within a few miles of the sea. It is, in fact, a
-sort of miniature Arun, but its effect in history has been almost as
-great as that of the larger river, as we shall see farther on, for it
-also has pierced its own gap through the Downs, and this gap has been,
-like Arundel, from the earliest times one of the avenues of invasion,
-and therefore one of the strong places for defence. It runs through this
-gap, past two delightful and almost unknown relics of mediæval England,
-parishes that have decayed until they are merely small chapels attached
-to lonely farms (their names are Coombes and Buttolphs), and comes to
-where its mouth used to be, at old Shoreham, where was a Roman
-landing-place, and where the Saxons are said first to have landed also.
-But the river has built up between itself and the sea a great beach of
-shingle. Its mouth has gone travelling farther and farther down along
-the coast, and, had not modern work arrested this process, there
-probably would have happened to Shoreham what has happened to Orford
-upon the East Coast. For Orford was also once a great mediæval harbour,
-the mouth of which has drifted farther and farther off and silted up as
-it travelled.
-
-The Adur will perhaps cut its largest figure in literature from the fact
-that it has been the occasion of one of the most ridiculous pieces of
-pedantry which even modern archæology has fallen into. A statement has
-been made (it has been taken seriously in our universities) that the
-Adur had no name until about 200 years ago, that the name it now bears
-was given it by Camden the historian, and that the Sussex peasants took
-the title of their river humbly from a writer of books, and have
-continued to use an artificial and foreign word! If anything were
-required to prove that a contention of this sort was nonsense it would
-be enough to point out that the word Adur is, like so many of our Sussex
-names, Celtic in its origin, and means, like so many Celtic names for
-rivers, “the water”; it is the same as the southern French name Adour.
-
-The third river, the Ouse, also bears a Celtic name. It is somewhat
-larger than the Adur, but considerably smaller than the Arun. Like the
-Adur it flows from insignificant streams until it gets to its water
-meadows near Lewes, and also like the Adur it has cut its gap through
-the Downs,
-
-[Illustration: THE TOWN CLOCK, STEYNING]
-
-[Sidenote: THE OUSE]
-
-and has therefore created a point of high strategical importance in the
-fortified hill of Lewes. But, unlike the Adur, the maritime portion of
-its course is of some length, and during these eight miles or so between
-Lewes and the mouth at Newhaven it rather resembles the lower part of
-the Arun. It has the same treeless, marshy sides, highly embanked for
-the formation of water meadows, the same strong, scouring tide, the same
-violent current, but, luckily for the London, Brighton, and South Coast
-Railway, not the same bar. The entry at Newhaven is particularly easy,
-the best in the county, and would be fairly easy even without the
-dredging that is carried on, or the breakwater that defends it from the
-south-west.
-
-These three rivers between them form the main hydrographical features of
-the centre of the county; their three harbours standing at almost
-exactly regular intervals are the sole entries to the west and middle of
-Sussex; the three gaps in the Downs behind those harbours are the three
-gates to South England from the sea; the three castles that defend those
-gaps complete the significance of the series.
-
-The Cuckmere is but a very small stream coming out just beyond Newhaven
-with Seaford at its mouth, and would be scarcely worth mentioning were
-it not for the fact that, like its larger sisters, it shows that
-singular capacity for cutting right down through the chalk hills and
-making a gap through which it can pass to the sea.
-
-This feature, which is common to the Sussex rivers, is also discovered
-in the streams which cross the northern chalk range into the Thames
-valley. These also are three in number--the Wey, the Mole, and the
-Darent. And it is conjectured by scientists that these three rivers,
-like those other three in Sussex, the Arun, the Adur, and the Ouse, run
-independent of the chalk hills, and cut through them from the following
-cause: the Wealden heights, the forest ridge that is, in which all six
-take their rise, is conceived to be geologically much older than the
-North or the South Downs, and it is presumed that the rivers had already
-formed their valleys, and were already beginning to erode the surface of
-the land before the chalk hills began to arise, so that as the Downs
-gradually rose the little rivers continued their sawing, and kept to
-their original level while the great heaps of white shell which were
-building up our hills rose upon either side of their valleys. This
-theory, unfortunately, like most scientific theories, and especially
-geological ones, is traversed by another theory equally
-
-[Illustration: THE ROTHER AT FITTLEWORTH]
-
-[Sidenote: THE EASTERN ROTHER]
-
-reputable and stoutly maintained by precisely the same authorities, to
-wit, that the shells of which the Chalk Downs are composed are those of
-marine animals and were laid down under the sea. If this was the case it
-is impossible to see how the little rivers can have continued their
-erosion while the chalk hills were rising upon either side, for no
-rivers run along the bottom of the sea. The fact is that this, like
-ninety-nine out of a hundred other geological theses, reposes upon mere
-guesswork; we have no evidence worth calling evidence to tell us how the
-contours of the land were moulded.
-
-The last of the Sussex rivers stands quite outside the scheme of those
-with which we have been hitherto dealing. It is the Eastern Rother,
-which rises, indeed, on the same Wealden heights as the others, but does
-not encounter the chalk hills, for these come to an end west of it in
-the cliff of Beachy Head. The Eastern Rother runs, therefore, not
-through a gap but a wide plain, which is marked off on the coast-line by
-the flats of the marshes before Dunge Ness.
-
-This little river nourishes no considerable town, but a great number of
-very charming villages stand either upon it or above it; others also
-less charming, as for instance the somewhat theatrical village of
-Burwash, whose old church tower, avenue of trees, and Georgian houses,
-have bred a crop of red-brick villas.
-
-Robertsbridge, however, is a paradise for any one, and contains or did
-contain in the cellars of its principal inn, the George, some of the
-best port at its price to be found in England. Within the drainage area
-of this river also stands (upon the Brede, a tributary) the height which
-was known until the Norman invasion as “Hastings Plain,” but has, since
-the great conflict, supported the abbey and the village of Battle. The
-harbour mouth of this river is the town of Rye, a haven which it is
-still possible to make, though with difficulty, but which was until
-quite the last few generations a trading-place of importance.
-
-With the mention of the Eastern Rother our survey of the river system of
-Sussex must close, for, though tributaries of the Wey rise within the
-political boundaries of the county, while the source of the Mole is also
-within those boundaries, their systems properly belong to the Thames
-valley and to Surrey.
-
-We have now some idea of the general configuration of the county, of the
-nature of its
-
-[Illustration: RYE]
-
-[Sidenote: GENERAL VIEW OF THE COUNTY]
-
-landscape and its soil, and of the relief upon which it is built. The
-reader may perhaps grasp in one glance the Wealden heights running along
-the northern horizon, the wide rolling belt of the clay weald between
-those heights and the Downs broken here and there by rocks and
-sandstone, patched with pines, the Downs themselves running in one vast
-wall for their fifty or sixty miles of stretch from the Hampshire border
-to Beachy Head, and the coastal plain to the south of them. There have
-also been indicated in this first part of the book, though briefly, the
-various types of towns and villages and buildings which these four belts
-produce; it has been shown how the parallelism of all the four tilts
-somewhat from the north-west to the south-east, so that all four end at
-last upon the sea; and it has been shown how the rivers run from the
-Weald, cut right through the Downs, and form along the coast the main
-harbours of the county.
-
-With such a general plan before us we can go on to speak more
-particularly of the history upon which modern Sussex reposes, and to
-describe in more detail the towns and the sites connected with the story
-of this countryside: of Chichester which was its spiritual capital;
-Arundel, Bramber, and Lewes, which were its defences; Midhurst,
-Petworth, Pulborough, Horsham, Steyning, Uckfield, and the rest, which
-are still its Wealden market towns; its six ancient harbours, and the
-recent change which more numerous roads and more rapid methods of
-locomotion have begun to bring upon the county, not wholly for its
-good.
-
-[Illustration: CHURCH STREET, STEYNING]
-
-
-
-
-
-PART II
-
-THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF SUSSEX
-
-
-The pre-history of Sussex is unknown. The county does not lie (as a
-first glance at the map might suggest) upon the main track between the
-metallic districts of the West of England and the Straits of Dover. That
-track was forced north by the indent of Southampton Water, and pursued
-its way, perhaps originally through Salisbury Plain, ultimately through
-Winchester, and so by Farnham, where it struck and followed the North
-Downs to Canterbury, which was the common centre for the ports of the
-Kentish coast. Sussex, moreover, was not only off this main prehistoric
-trade route, but also, as has been previously explained in the first
-portion of this book, was cut off to some extent on the north by the
-Weald, and to the east and to the west by Romney Marsh and Chichester
-Harbour respectively.
-
-We may, therefore, presume that before the advent of the Romans the
-district was a very isolated and perhaps a very backward piece of
-Britain. Convenient as were its harbours, and comparatively short as was
-the trajectory from the opposite coast, it suffered from what handicaps
-all such coast lines, that is, the absence of a wealthy hinterland.
-London was more easily made through Kent or by sailing up the estuary of
-the Thames, and the great roads to the north which converged on London
-were better arrived at through Kent and by way of the Watling Street
-than through Sussex.
-
-All we can positively say is that the western part of the county was
-presumably inhabited by a tribe called the Regni, whose capital was, we
-may believe, upon the site of Chichester. For the rest all is
-conjecture.
-
-It is equally true that we have no direct history of Sussex during the
-400 years of the Roman occupation. But here, as is the case almost
-everywhere in England, the material evidences of Rome and of the vast
-and prosperous civilisation which she founded in the island, are in
-number quite out of proportion with the meagre documents that speak of
-her occupation. The whole soil of
-
-[Sidenote: THE ROMAN BASIS]
-
-England is strewn thickly with the relics of Rome; and the reader will
-perhaps pardon a digression on a matter of such historical importance,
-because, though it does not concern Sussex alone, it does concern the
-history of England in general very much, and therefore the history of
-Sussex in particular. Nor can any one understand an English countryside
-unless he has already understood what the Romans did for this province
-of theirs, Britain.
-
-There has arisen in the last two generations a school which is now
-weakening, but which has already had a very ill effect upon the general
-comprehension of European history. This school was German in its origin,
-meticulous in its methods, feeble in its historic judgment, and very
-strongly influenced by the bias of race and religion. It attempted to
-establish the thesis that the effect of Rome upon Europe had been
-exaggerated, and that the North especially had been but little moulded
-by the Latin order. This was partly true in the case of Northern
-Germany, for though the German civilisation is a Latin civilisation, yet
-it is and remains Latin only in the second degree. German thought,
-building, law, religion, and the rest are Latin, or they are nothing;
-but they are imported Latin. They are not of that Latinity which grows
-up and lives and takes root in the soil. There lies behind them a sort
-of vague thing which has never taken form, never is expressed, but
-evidently colours all North German life and makes it different from the
-life of Southern, Western, and civilised Europe; for Rome never occupied
-the Baltic plain.
-
-But though this insufficient influence of Rome be obviously true with
-regard to Northern Germany, whose poor soil and shallow harbours had
-never tempted the Roman eagles, it is profoundly untrue of Britain. By
-far the greater part of our historical towns can be proved to be Roman
-in origin, and it is to be presumed that of the remainder most will
-ultimately furnish, or at least could furnish, proofs of a similar
-foundation. But though Britain was thoroughly kneaded into the stuff of
-the Empire, the accidents of the barbarian wars lend arguments to those
-who would minimise the vast effect of her early civilisation upon her
-subsequent history.
-
-For the continuity of Roman speech and of the civilisation of the Empire
-was sharply broken in Britain by the invasion (gradual, but very
-disastrous) of the North Sea pirates,--raids which
-
-[Illustration: FARMHOUSE, LEYS GREEN]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SAXON RAIDS]
-
-exercised an increasing pressure throughout the end of the fourth
-century, and which in the middle of the fifth began to triumph over the
-resistance of the native population. How far the effect of these raids
-was constructive, the foundation of a race, and how far merely
-destructive, the marring of a social order, we will discuss later; it is
-sufficient for the moment to point out that they prevented us, when we
-re-entered civilisation, from harking back with certitude to our origins
-as Gaul or the Rhine or Spain could to theirs. We have, indeed, our
-hagiographers, but they are not, like the hagiographers of the
-Continent, in direct connection with the Fathers of the Church and with
-the Imperial centre. We had, indeed, a flourishing monastic system, but
-we could not say of it as could Gaul, that it went right up to the time
-of Julian the Apostate, derived from St. Martin, and was linked with the
-memory of a once strong and ordered state. There is, therefore, more
-room for discussion and for denial of the Roman influence in Britain
-than in any other province of the Empire; more even than in Africa,
-where the complete and sudden wiping out of the Roman genius by the
-Mahommedan religion has fossilised, as it were (and therefore
-preserved), enormous evidences of Roman activity.
-
-With the darkness of the Saxon invasions to aid them, authorities of
-considerable weight have been found to advance such propositions as that
-the total population of Roman Britain amounted to but little more than a
-million souls; that the continuity of London, York, Leicester, and the
-other original cities is doubtful, and so forth. There is nothing so
-fantastic but it has had a home for a short space among the historians
-of our universities, so long as the phantasy was in opposition to the
-general spirit of Europe and to the grandeur of the Roman name.
-
-It is best for a modern reader to forget these vagaries, and to found
-himself upon the constant judgment of permanent historical work--upon
-the common sense, as it were, of Europe as we receive it handed on
-through the historical traditions of the Middle Ages, and as we see it
-developing since the renaissance of learning in the sixteenth century.
-We can believe that Roman Britain, though we do not know its exact
-population, was very densely populated (Gibbon, the best authority,
-perhaps, puts it highest), and that, at least towards the close of the
-third century, it was full of flourishing towns, and intersected
-everywhere by great military roads; it was peaceable, wealthy, and a
-very close part of the Roman unity.
-
-[Illustration: NEAR PEVENSEY]
-
-[Sidenote: THE ROMAN TOWNS]
-
-Sussex was no exception to this rule. Small as was the extent of its
-then habitable or thickly-populated part (virtually confined to the
-coast-plain, for the Downs could not be inhabited, the villages of their
-foot-hills were few, and the belt between them and the Weald was
-difficult of access), small as was that portion, it contained two
-considerable towns--Anderida and Regnum. Anderida lay upon the site of
-Pevensey, Regnum is Chichester. What other settlements it had of a
-strictly Roman nature, as distinguished from the Celtic villages and the
-isolated farms held both by Celtic and by Roman masters, we cannot tell.
-The Roman remains of Lewes prove it (as does its site) to have been a
-place of importance since the beginning of history, but we cannot
-identify it with certitude. Arundel, a place obviously as old, has
-hitherto furnished no Roman relics. It is possible that Bramber was
-fortified; and it is fairly certain, though it is not positive history,
-that the mouth of the old estuary at Shoreham was the Portus Adurni.
-More than this we cannot say.
-
-But there is contained in Sussex a further and more striking evidence of
-the power of Rome than even the line of the wall at Chichester or the
-ruins of Anderida. This is to be found in the great track of the Stane
-Street, the Roman road which led from the East Gate of Chichester to
-London, and of which so large a part is in actual use to-day.
-
-This great monument of our past is equalled by little else in our island
-as a dramatic witness of the source from which we spring. The Roman wall
-between Tyne and Solway has afforded much more food for scholarship, and
-is in places of a more active effect upon the eye, but it does not
-appear before us as does the Stane Street, possessed of a constant
-historic use, and explaining the development of a whole district.
-
-This military way can be traced, with a few gaps, for a space of fifty
-miles and more; from the eastern gate of Chichester to the neighbourhood
-of Epsom, where it passes just between Lord Rosebery’s house and the
-race-course, having crossed the Surrey border in the neighbourhood of
-Ockley, and pursued its way through Dorking churchyard across Burford
-Bridge, through the gardens of Juniper Hall, and so northwards and
-eastwards.
-
-The line of it in Sussex is clear to any one who glances at an Ordnance
-map. It is a hard road over the first mile on leaving Chichester. At the
-village of West Hampnet, some unknown cause in the
-
-[Sidenote: THE STANE STREET]
-
-remote past has diverted it, and the original line is lost in the fields
-behind the workhouse of the place; but within another mile it once more
-coincides with the present high road and goes straight for the Downs.
-Close upon it was founded the Abbey of Boxgrove which, like Hyde and
-Westminster and so many others, owed its site to the presence of a great
-national way. It goes on over the shoulder of Halnacker Hill, then
-plunges through the north wood where it is no longer traceable as a
-road, but as a high ridge for several miles. It emerges upon the open
-grass of the Downs at Gumber Farm, where it still marks a division
-between ancient properties and modern fields. It then climbs down the
-escarpment of the hills upon the north side in a great curve which has
-given its name to the farm of Cold Harbour,--for the word Cold harbour,
-which so frequently occurs in English topography, is probably derived
-from the Latin “Curbare,” and marks the points where the usually dead
-straight line of the Roman road was compelled for some local reason to
-adopt a curve.
-
-Immediately at the foot of this curve is to be found the little village
-of Bignor, which contains one of the most perfect Roman pavements in
-England, and which has been conjectured to be the “Ad Decimam”--the
-tenth milestone from Chichester. It may be the villa of a private estate
-or (more probably) the military residence of a small garrison. From this
-point to Pulborough Bridge the track of the road is conjectural, with
-the exception of a few stretches, where, even to-day, the discoloration
-of the earth in the ploughed fields marks the old line in the Stane
-Street. At Hardham, however, just before it reaches the marshes of the
-Arun, its passage is clearly discernible due east of a still defined
-camp which stands in between Petworth branch line and the main line of
-the L.B.S.C.R., just before their junction. Immediately beyond, on the
-farther side, stood the old Priory of Hardham which, like Boxgrove, must
-have owed its site to the neighbourhood of the way.
-
-The remaining mile over the marshes to Pulboro’ Bridge is, of course,
-absolutely lost. It is a universal rule of topography throughout
-Britain, that where a Roman causeway crossed a marsh, it has been lost
-in the barbaric centuries by a slow process of sinking into the soft
-soil below. But the direction which the Stane Street must have followed
-when the causeway existed is not difficult to determine; it is to be
-decided by a consideration which
-
-[Illustration: LYCH GATE, PULBOROUGH]
-
-[Sidenote: THE STANE STREET]
-
-the historians of the county have not hitherto remarked. It is this. If
-one stands upon the height of Gumber above Cold Harbour Hill and notes
-the direction of the Stane Street as it crosses the Downs, one finds it
-pointing straight at Pulborough Bridge. Or again, if one lays a ruler
-along the line of the Stane Street upon an Ordnance map so as to cover
-the section between Halnacker and Gumber, the prolongation of that line
-strikes to within a yard or two of Pulborough Bridge. It is, therefore,
-as certain as anything can be that the road made for this point, that
-the Roman causeway across the marsh ran directly from Hardham to the
-bridge, and that the Arun was crossed sixteen hundred years ago at the
-same place as it is to-day.
-
-The point though new can hardly be questioned. Roads of this sort were
-necessarily laid down by a method of “sighting” from one distant point
-of the horizon to the other. In no other way could their straightness be
-achieved, and there can be no doubt that the first surveyor, in laying
-down the track from the south to the north side of the Downs, was guided
-by signals from the crest of the ridge; the line was given him by
-watchers upon the summit who could observe the parties on the southern
-slope below and the distant Arun to the north, and who had already
-determined from that vantage place the point at which the river could be
-most easily crossed.
-
-At Pulborough Bridge the Stane Street again becomes a hard road, and
-with such slight deviations as the long centuries of its history have
-caused at Adversane and Parbook (they never leave the straight by so
-much as fifty yards) it takes its way right through the heart of the
-county. Billingshurst stands upon it, breaking its exact line by a
-growth of little encroaching freeholds. It does not cease to be a county
-road for many miles farther; it arrives at Five Oaks Green, there enters
-the heart of the Weald, where even to this day there are but very few
-houses; it dwindles to a lane, and so reaches its second crossing of the
-Arun at Alfordean Bridge, where traces of Roman fortification still
-appear. The remaining two and a half miles of its course through the
-county are either lost under the plough, overgrown in thickets (such as
-“Roman’s Wood”), or preserved as stretches of foot-path. It is here a
-deserted track, and enters Surrey at last near Ruckman’s Farm.
-
-There may have been other Roman roads of the regular and military sort
-piercing the county.
-
-[Illustration: PULBOROUGH]
-
-[Sidenote: OTHER ROMAN WAYS]
-
-Some have maintained that one such road ran from the mouth of the Adur
-up to London, and another from Pevensey through Mayfield also to London.
-It is absolutely certain that in the Roman time there must have been
-roads following some such tracks: evidences of one, at least, have been
-discovered at Haywards Heath and at Reigate, while it is a fair
-inference that the march of William the Conqueror from Pevensey through
-Hastings up on to Hastings Plain, where he fought his great battle, was
-made along an ancient way. But it may be doubted whether any of the
-other lines of communication in Sussex were of a true military nature,
-or possessed the permanence of what we usually call a Roman road. At any
-rate, they have left no evidences which warrant our asserting that they
-were ever of the same nature as the great Stane Street.
-
-We know one or two more things about Roman Sussex. We know that the
-industry of the Eastern Weald was an iron industry. We may be fairly
-certain that there must have been a flourishing agriculture along the
-sea-plain to maintain its great towns; but we know nothing more until we
-enter with the Saxon invasions, the beginning of the second phase in the
-history of the county.
-
-These invasions are themselves mythical in their details. Though the
-main fact of their success at the eastern and southern coast-line is
-historical beyond dispute their story reposes upon legends, which, as
-the reader need hardly be reminded, are not trustworthy. From the oral
-traditions of a very barbarous people possessed of hardly any continuous
-institutions, split up into dozens of little tribes which differed from
-each other in local patois, and were possessed of no unity or national
-spirit, the tales of the pirate raids were handed on till at last they
-were written down hundreds of years after, when civilisation had once
-more penetrated into the southern and eastern part of the island, and a
-sort of rude literature could re-arise to give them for what they were
-worth. A traditional and probably mythical being, called in the legend
-“Aella,” is reported to have effected the first regular landing upon the
-Sussex coast towards the beginning of the sixth century, or rather to
-have turned into a permanent settlement those temporary raids which had
-been common for a century and more before his time. The feature of this
-invasion which most powerfully struck the barbaric imagination was the
-fall of Anderida. So violent was the effect produced upon the victims
-and their
-
-[Illustration: HARTFIELD--THE INN]
-
-[Sidenote: THE BREAK-DOWN OF ROME]
-
-despoilers, that the Saxon Chronicle some centuries later records a
-tradition to the effect that not one of its inhabitants was left alive
-when the city was stormed. This, of course, is no truer than any other
-history of the sort; but it is valuable as pointing to the violence of
-the struggle. Anderida was, moreover, one of the very few cities of
-Europe where, in the break-down of the Roman Empire, municipal life was
-actually destroyed. For we know by the evidence of an eye-witness (which
-is a very different thing from legend), that after so comparatively
-short a lapse of time as two hundred years from the time of the
-invasion, the ruined walls were still standing and the place was
-uninhabited.
-
-What form the disaster took after this date we cannot tell; but we can
-derive some idea of its severity from the break-down of the native
-language. We know that, mixed with the Celtic roots of Sussex
-place-names, with the purely Celtic names of its main rivers, with the
-Celtic and possibly Roman names of its villages, there is a Teutonic
-admixture so welded in with the rest as to be inseparable from it.
-Billingshurst, for example, springs presumably from a Celtic source, and
-records, like Billingsgate, the worship of Belinus. But this “hurst,”
-like all the other “hursts” up and down the south of England, is almost
-certainly a Teutonic ending.
-
-It is to be noted that Teutonic terminations are particularly noticeable
-along the coast itself, from whence the invasion of the pirates came.
-Hastings is entirely an un-Latin and un-Celtic name. So is Selsea. So is
-Shoreham. Half the names along the Sussex coast must be purely Teutonic;
-and even of the remainder one cannot be sure how much of their framework
-has survived since the days before the pirate invasion. Thus “ness” (as
-in Dungeness) may be Northern, but it may also be Latin.
-
-We can, again, be certain of the thoroughness of the cataclysm by the
-effect of the invasion upon the philosophy of the place. In Sussex,
-whatever may have happened elsewhere, there was a complete disappearance
-of the Christian religion. The raids must have been many and severe, and
-the last permanent settlement of the barbarians successful, to have
-produced such a result. For Britain round about the year 500 was
-obviously as Christian as any other province, and to have destroyed
-Christianity in the period which saw St. Eligius and Dagobert in their
-full power beyond the narrow English Channel necessarily means that the
-attack was very powerful and very ruthless.
-
-[Illustration: EWHURST]
-
-[Sidenote: EXTINCTION OF CHRISTIANITY]
-
-It is of particular importance to insist upon the Christianity of
-_Sussex_ in this respect. For, as we consider the south of England,
-which was the more civilised portion of the island, we remark that in
-Devonshire and Cornwall Christianity made a stand which maintained a
-continuity of the faith. In Kent, again, there was very probably a relic
-of Christianity. A Christian queen was upon the throne there a hundred
-years before the neighbouring county had so much as heard of the gospel.
-A Christian church was in existence in Canterbury before Augustine
-landed--though whether it had survived from Roman times we cannot tell;
-nor do we know the fate of the central district of Hampshire and
-Dorsetshire, except that we may presume that the Christian religion and
-the tradition of civilisation could hardly have been quite destroyed
-upon the borders of the Christian Severn valley and of the Christian
-Damnonian peninsula, to which were so continually flowing the influences
-of Christian Brittany and Christian Ireland and Christian Wales. In
-Sussex, therefore, alone of the southern counties, we may state it as
-historically certain that civilisation was totally destroyed, and that
-the faith which is the central expression of civilisation was stamped
-out.
-
-Another line of argument leads to the same conclusion. It is that drawn
-from the story of St. Wilfrid. In this story we see St. Wilfrid in his
-exile landing in Sussex, and finding the barbarians fallen to so low an
-ebb that they had even lost the craft of fishing. The Roman arts had, of
-course, long ago disappeared. It is quite possible that men had here
-even forgotten how to plough in the general break-down which followed
-the coming of the pirates. At any rate there was a famine when St.
-Wilfrid came. St. Wilfred taught them how to make nets, and there
-followed what always follows when savages come across civilisation (if
-that civilisation is beneficent)--the savages accepted it _en bloc_,
-customs, faith, and all; even in their fragmentary records they talk
-henceforth of “Ides” and “Kalends.” They made St. Wilfred their bishop,
-and he established his see (possibly from a vague tradition of the Roman
-times) at Selsea.
-
-The place in which he built his first cathedral is now perhaps under the
-sea. The Roman buildings and the establishments of the city were already
-in danger, when, in the eleventh century, the see was removed to the
-neighbouring town of Chichester, where it remained in a continuous
-tradition which lasted till the Reformation. The district of Selsea
-
-[Sidenote: SELSEA]
-
-lingered on as a batch of islands, flooded at high tide, until
-comparatively recent times. It is said that even as late as the Tudors
-the patch now known as “The Park” was really a park, and that the rapid
-current known as the Looe stream corresponded to a ravine in that royal
-domain. At any rate the whole place is to-day a mass of tangled rocks
-and shallows, mixed up with which we may presume are the ruins of the
-Roman and early Saxon buildings. It is known as the “Owers,” and there
-stands upon it a lighthouse which is one of the principal marks of the
-Sussex coast; nor can any ships of considerable burthen go between these
-rocks and the shore. The great liners on their way to Southampton all
-pass outside: the fishing-boats and coasting-vessels can take the
-shorter inner passage, if they have a tide with them, through the Looe
-stream.
-
-The remaining history of Sussex until the advent of the Normans is
-obscure and meagre. Here, as in the rest of England, the barbarism of
-the Dark Ages was tempered, of course, by the existence of the historic
-and organised machinery of the Catholic Church, but they remained
-barbaric, and nowhere more barbaric than in Britain. The wound of the
-Saxon invasion was never really healed. There are those who maintain
-that we feel its effects to this day.
-
-From the period of the conversion which may roughly be said to have
-occupied the last twenty years of the seventh century, right away down
-to the tenth, with its violent internal convulsions ending in the Danish
-conquest, Sussex almost disappears from history. It is true to say that
-in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle of this period we hear more of Gaul than we
-do of the English county. It must have been singularly free from the
-storm of the Danish invasions until close upon the end of the ninth
-century, when we get the landing of Hasting and his march up the valley
-of the Rother. But even that raid failed, for Alfred had already
-restored peace to the south of England.
-
-It is at this period also that we begin to have historical evidence of
-the existence of the fortified places of Sussex.
-
-The opportunities afforded by Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, and the rest must
-have been recognised from prehistoric times. There also existed from
-prehistoric times the great entrenchments on the Downs. But it is not
-until the close of the ninth and beginning of the tenth centuries that
-we get documentary proofs of the way in which these
-
-[Illustration: MALLING MILL]
-
-[Sidenote: THE STRATEGIC POINTS]
-
-advantages were seized. Thus we know from Alfred’s will that at the
-beginning of the tenth century Arundel was already fortified and already
-a king’s castle.
-
-Of the smaller projecting spur of Lewes, similarly defended by marshes
-and similarly easy to isolate by a ditch across the narrow neck which
-connects it with the Downs, we have not indeed direct evidence so early.
-But several smaller places dependent upon it and in its neighbourhood
-are mentioned at the same time; and a little later, under Athelstan, the
-town itself is mentioned with this particular mark, that of the four
-Sussex mints (which were here and at Hastings and at Chichester) two
-were permitted to be established in Lewes, numbers which point to its
-being, even at that early date, the recognised capital of the whole
-county.
-
-Bramber, we may be certain from the name, though documents are lacking,
-was fortified at least as early as this period.
-
-In a word, all the gaps of the Downs were held in a military fashion,
-and had entered into the scheme of the county as strongholds, guarding
-the river passes for one hundred and fifty or one hundred and seventy
-years before they fell into the hands of the Norman invaders. But of
-the rest of the development of the county in Saxon times we know so
-very little that even conjecture is hardly worth our while. The
-place-names are all that indicate to us what Saxon foundation the towns
-and villages of the Weald may have received. Their gradual development,
-the granting of their charters, and the documentary proof of their
-existence and commercial importance we do not get until after the
-Conquest. These proofs we shall be able the better to examine when we
-come to that event, and especially when we analyse the way in which the
-rape of Bramber grew up under the leadership of the Warrens.
-
-The end of the barbaric period in the reign of Edward the Confessor, and
-its enormous effect upon the future of England, are, however, associated
-with the county; and the complete obscurity within which it had lain for
-so many generations is partially compensated for by the name of Godwin.
-That great earl, with his strength, his vices, and his ambitions, was
-altogether a Sussex man. He was the son of Wulnoth, a knight of the
-South Saxons.
-
-It has sometimes been regretted that feudalism in England did not follow
-the line which it did on the Continent, and that the various districts
-of England were not coalesced under great overlords,
-
-[Illustration: FISHBOURNE MILL]
-
-[Sidenote: GODWIN]
-
-so as to form true provinces and thus to intensify the life of the
-nation. These regrets may or may not be just, but Godwin very nearly
-succeeded in satisfying that ideal. He was by far the greatest man in
-Sussex, as he was in England. He held nearly sixty manors, and that not
-merely in a technical sense and for a merely military reason, as did the
-great overlords immediately later under the Conqueror hold manors in yet
-larger numbers, but actually (we may presume) and with a true lordship.
-Among them are many names to be recognised to-day. There is Beeding
-which is under the Downs, beyond Bramber, a place called with fine irony
-Upper Beeding; it lies in a hollow, damp all the year round, while Lower
-Beeding is set upon a high hill. There is Climping, the seaside village
-near Little Hampton, of which little now remains. There is Rottingdean,
-Brighton itself, Fulking, Salescombe, Wiston (which is the master of
-Chactonbury), and Ashington and Washington close by. Godwin, indeed, for
-his economic power reposed upon Sussex, and it is curious that his
-connection with the county has been so little emphasised by historians.
-
-With the Norman Conquest, Sussex, like the rest of England, re-enters
-history. And that in a peculiar manner, for, as has been seen, of all
-the districts of England, Sussex had suffered the deepest eclipse during
-the barbaric period, and by the peculiar fact that the invasion of
-civilisation came from Normandy, was most advantaged in the period
-immediately following. The contrast was abrupt and striking. Here was a
-district of which, as we have seen, practically no mention is made
-between the fall of the Roman power and the last efforts of Godwin. It
-is cut off from the rest of England by the Andred’s Weald. The only
-considerable story in connection with it is that of its conversion. It
-can boast no great monasteries founded in that time, as all the rest of
-England can boast; it can show no great military leader, nor even the
-scene of any great military disaster, for Ockley itself was beyond its
-borders. The advent of the last invaders, but invaders this time who
-bring with them constructive power and the full European tradition, is
-from the shore immediately opposing its own. A short day’s sail away
-there ran the coast of Normandy, where a race of Gallo-Romans, with a
-slight but transforming admixture of Scandinavian blood, were chafing
-under their superabundant energy. Already for nearly a century a great
-intercourse must have
-
-[Illustration: ST. MARY’S CHURCH, RYE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE NORMAN INVASION]
-
-existed between the harbours to the north and the south of the Channel.
-It was from Bosham that Harold sailed; the Court of Edward had been full
-of Normans, and one has but to cross the Channel in a little boat to see
-how the advance of the arts after the darkness of the ninth century must
-have increased communication between Normandy and the shores of Sussex.
-A man will run in a five tonner from Shoreham to Dieppe close hauled
-into a fresh south-westerly wind between the morning and the evening of
-a summer’s day; he will run from Dieppe into Rye with such a wind on his
-quarter during the daylight of almost any day in the year, except
-perhaps in the mid-winter season.
-
-With such a wind William sailed from St. Valery in the autumn of 1066.
-He landed at Pevensey. He marched along the coast to Hastings, and then
-struck up north and a little east for four or five miles to where the
-Saxon force lay on the defensive upon a rounded height above the valley
-of the Brede, called “Hastings Plain.”
-
-A pedantic discussion, into which we need not enter, has waged round the
-exact name of the spot where the battle was fought. One of the principal
-authorities for the history of the battle (but not a contemporary
-authority) calls it several times “Senlac.” It is just possible that he
-was mis-spelling some local name. Halnacker is similarly mis-spelt
-“Hanac” in the title deeds of Boxgrove Abbey. But the name as it stands
-is a Gascon name, and in all probability was given to some portion of
-the land long after the battle because a Gascon gentleman had acquired
-manorial rights there. Every other authority alludes to it as Hastings,
-or Hastings Plain, and every Sussex man can see why, for there is
-nothing commoner in the country than the calling of one of the uplands
-by the name of some neighbouring, inhabited, and settled spot in the
-lowlands, possibly because the inhabitants of that neighbouring and
-inhabited spot had some sort of territorial rights in the upland place
-so named. Thus one has on the Downs, between Arundel and Goodwood,
-“Fittleworth Wood,” six or seven miles away from Fittleworth itself, and
-the use of the word “plain” for a stretch of the uplands is as common as
-can be,--for instance Plummers Plain between Lower Beeding and
-Handcross.
-
-We may take it, then, for the purposes of this short description, that
-among the Saxons of the time, or rather the local Sussex men of the
-time, “Hastings Plain” was the name given to the hill of stunted trees
-and grass up which the
-
-[Illustration: FITTLEWORTH VILLAGE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE NORMAN WEALD]
-
-Normans charged late on that October afternoon. By sunset the issue was
-determined, and the victory gave the crumbling and anarchic Saxon state
-back again to Europe. The disorders of the Church were reformed, a
-centralised and efficient government was introduced, the art of building
-received, as it always does with the coming of fresh vigour, a vast
-impetus, and the history of the England that we know began.
-
-In connection with the Norman Conquest it is of some historical
-importance to ask one’s self what was the remaining function of the
-Weald, the great forest which ran along the rising swell of clay and
-sand, and bounded Sussex on the north?
-
-We have seen that in prehistoric times the Weald was undoubtedly the
-obstacle which delimited Sussex, and made all this district a maritime
-province with its towns on the sea. The Romans pierced the Weald with
-one great military road and probably several minor ways. But they did
-not settle it thickly. One may say that with the exception of a trace or
-two of fortifications it is practically destitute of Roman remains. It
-may possibly, or even probably, have contained many isolated farms in
-the prosperous middle and conclusion of the Roman period, but with the
-advent of the barbarians it fell again, as did so many other parts of
-Europe, into the prehistoric conditions, and we have at least one
-allusion in Anglo-Saxon history to its desertion, in the story of that
-Saxon king who fled during the tenth century from his enemies and hid in
-the Weald for many months. We know then that in Roman times it was
-traversed by at least one great military road and probably by several
-others; that in the Dark Ages it was certainly a dividing line between
-the coast district and the Thames valley; that in the thirteenth and
-fourteenth centuries it was thoroughly civilised again. The main
-historical question or doubt relates to the eleventh century. Was this
-old wild condition of the forest a complete barrier to any travel
-northward from the coast at the time of the Conquest?
-
-It may be seriously doubted that it was such a barrier. It is probable
-that a certain amount of communication between North and South had
-already arisen, and, as we shall see in a moment, it is certain that
-communication became very vigorous in the centuries immediately
-succeeding Hastings.
-
-The nature of the obstacle, it must be remembered, has been mistaken by
-historians, notably by Freeman and by Green, and by all the smaller
-modern men, such as Mr. Davis and Mr. Oman
-
-[Sidenote: THE WEALD]
-
-of Oxford, who copy what they see written in the popular histories. The
-Weald was never an impenetrable forest; no Northern European forests
-are. It was not cut by great lines of marsh, which are the chief
-obstacle to men under primitive conditions. It was not even dense, as
-are some of the English forests, for example the beech forests of the
-Downs. Those pieces of the Weald which have been left uncultivated, and
-which remain to-day almost in their original state, show us clearly what
-the whole district once was. It was simply a vague, long belt which it
-did not pay to cultivate in early times. Small, strong oak-trees stood
-in it, never very close together. Here and there on sandy wastes and
-heaths were furze and ferns. The clay did, indeed, give rise to many
-pools, stagnant meres, and sodden patches of soil. But there could never
-have been great difficulty in getting across it northwards, nor any lack
-of forest tracks from one side to the other, nor any great prevalence of
-dense thickets in which enemies could hide. Its chief character as a
-barrier was that of loneliness. For some sixteen or twenty miles, for a
-full day’s march that is, you had a chance in the early centuries as you
-went across the Weald of not meeting a man, and this old character is
-still remembered by any one who walks along the Stane Street from Five
-Oaks Green to Ockley. But you certainly could not have gone five miles
-without seeing some evidence of man’s activities--a road, a wall, a
-well, a felled tree, or a cast weapon. The Weald was, therefore, never a
-_military_ obstacle, and to talk about the “impenetrable forest of the
-Weald” checking William the Conqueror after the Battle of Hastings is to
-show complete ignorance of the nature of Sussex. It was, however, an
-obstacle to the spread of ideas, speech, folklore, and the rest, and did
-maintain the isolation of Sussex down to quite recent times. It keeps
-traces of that character still.
-
-William then was not prevented from his march on London by the Weald. He
-went back at his leisure to the sea coast to secure his communications,
-marched up to Dover, garrisoning every harbour on his way, and then took
-the great north-east road through Kent, which has been the line of
-invasion, of commerce, and foreign travel in our island from the very
-origins of history.
-
-His own personal effort appears after this to pass from the history of
-the county, but the effect of the invasion upon Sussex was, as we have
-just remarked, enormous. It will be seen from what has preceded this
-that the field lay open for the effects
-
-[Illustration: GROOMBRIDGE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE NORMAN ORGANISATION]
-
-of the new vigour. Nowhere had the remnants of Roman civilisation more
-thoroughly decayed. The old British stock and the admixture, such as it
-was, of Teutonic blood had mixed to form a population very much what we
-see to-day in the villages of Sussex, where most of the people are
-short, with dark, keen eyes, but a few tall and large, with the light
-hair, the slow gait, and the heavy bodies of the marsh men from Frisia
-and the Baltic.
-
-Again the reorganisation of Sussex begins from the sea.
-
-In the administrative division of the county Rapes, as they are called,
-were mapped out, though it must not be imagined that there was anything
-original in the selection of the particular districts. The clear Norman
-brain and the weighty Norman power would certainly make definite
-boundaries where before there had been nothing but the vague, local
-feeling of the countryside to determine the limits of the separate parts
-of the county; but the general set of the divisions was certainly
-inherited by the Norman from the older and semi-barbaric state of
-things. Moreover, even after the Norman organisation was fully
-established, the exact boundaries of each Rape were not always very well
-determined. Thus the parish of Slindon remained for centuries doubtful
-between Arundel and Chichester Rape, to which last it has finally been
-attributed.
-
-In number the Rapes were six, and were called after the towns of
-Chichester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings.
-
-It will be noted that in each case a town which could be reached by
-ships was chosen as the basis of the division, and that the tides of the
-Channel here, as always, were the creators of the county.
-
-The importance which the county was to hold in the new state of affairs
-is marked at once by the names of those to whom four of the Rapes were
-given: Montgomery, Braose, Warren, and Moreton, all of them closely
-connected with the family of the Conqueror, and all of them set, not as
-proprietors, but as military overlords over a vast number of manors. It
-would probably be seen, if an exact computation were taken, that, with
-the exception of the counties Palatine, feudal power was nowhere more
-concentrated than on this stretch of the sea coast. Here it was that
-William’s invasion had proved successful; here that new dangers might be
-expected; here, therefore, that he organised in the most thorough manner
-and under chiefs most closely connected with himself and his family,
-the
-
-[Illustration: BOSHAM--MILL BRIDGE]
-
-[Sidenote: BUILDING UP OF LEWES RAPE]
-
-defence of the land. These few men count between them five-sevenths of
-the whole county.
-
-Before speaking of what was probably the principal economic factor in
-the new life which Sussex received from the invasion, the foundation of
-monasteries, it is of interest to show how a rape was built up from the
-sea by the new-comers, and the best example we can take to exhibit this
-process is the rape delivered into the hands of Warren, the Duke’s
-son-in-law, in overlordship. We shall see it spreading from the centre
-of its ancient capital, fed, it may be presumed, from its ancient
-harbour, and slowly extending northward a jurisdiction gradually
-acquired over the Weald, and later even overleaping the northern
-boundary of the forest ridge. The whole process occupied about two
-hundred years. Here then are the chief points in the growth of this Rape
-of Lewes.
-
-Let us note, in the first place, its natural boundaries. The Ouse bounds
-it to the east and the Adur to the west, and the strip of land runs
-north and south between these two river valleys; it starts from the sea
-coast by which entry is made into the county, and loses itself in the
-forest to the north.
-
-Its principal town, Lewes, has all those characteristics which
-distinguish the central towns of the countrysides of Western Europe,
-save that it possesses no cathedral. It is a place naturally susceptible
-of fortification. It is Roman, and probably pre-Roman in its origins. It
-possesses a natural means of approach in the shape of the river beneath
-it; good water, a dry and naturally well-drained soil, and (a peculiar
-feature which is to be discovered in every case throughout Gaul,
-Northern Italy, Western Germany, and Britain) it lies, not in the
-centre, but right to one side of the countryside which takes its name
-from it. This feature, which is so marked in the case of the great
-Norman bishoprics and of most other divisions of the later Empire, is
-probably due to the fact that where a river or range of hills or great
-forest formed a natural boundary for a district, it at the same time
-formed the main natural defence for the chief stronghold of that
-district. Whatever the cause may be, the chief towns of the various
-divisions into which Western Europe has fallen are nearly always near
-the frontier of those divisions. Canterbury is near the sea; Edinburgh
-near the north of the Lothians. Rouen is by no means central as to
-Normandy. Even Avranches, Bayeux, and Coutances are upon the edges of
-their
-
-[Illustration: WEST HAM]
-
-[Sidenote: MILITARY VALUE OF LEWES]
-
-respective dioceses. And in this county of Sussex, Chichester, the
-cathedral town, is close to the western border, Arundel is right up
-against the border of its own Rape, Bramber within a stone’s throw of
-its eastern boundary. Pevensey alone is somewhat central. Hastings is
-again thrown up towards the eastern side of the belt which takes its
-name.
-
-Lewes, then, is the stronghold upon which the chance division of the
-county had grown up in the Dark Ages. The Normans come; they add to the
-Saxon fortifications a great Norman castle, and they define more
-accurately the Rape whose general conception they have inherited from
-the men whom they have just conquered. They survey (the results of their
-survey remain in Doomsday), and, having done so, for the next four or
-five generations they push northward, increasing the agricultural value
-of the villages as they cultivate them, and extending the rule of man
-over nature farther and farther into the forest of the Weald.
-
-The constructive effort of the Norman begins by his arrangement of
-government. He settles upon each of the great divisions the head of some
-great family, who is nominally the overlord of numerous parishes within
-that boundary, and who is practically the head of the garrison of the
-central castle, and the receiver of certain small dues from the numerous
-villages or manors of which he is technically the lord. In the case of
-Lewes this function fell, as we have seen, to William of Warren, who was
-a son-in-law of William the Conqueror, and had distinguished himself in
-the fight upon Hastings Plain. His residence is in the Castle at Lewes,
-and undoubtedly his chief political function is to guard this entry to
-the county. He rebuilds that castle, and he is the custodian of the
-local survey.
-
-What he does for a port we cannot tell at this distance of time. We know
-that the marshy land at the foot of the castle was not an estuary of the
-sea at this epoch, and was probably even passable in the eleventh
-century. We know this from the coins and relics which have been found in
-it. We know also that the present harbour of Newhaven was diverted later
-than the Conquest, and that the old mouth of the river ran somewhat to
-the east of it. We may conjecture with great probability that the port
-upon which Lewes was dependent for its commerce and provisions and
-reinforcements was somewhere near the old mill-pond between Newhaven and
-Seaford.
-
-[Illustration: LEWES CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: LEWES RAPE INLAND]
-
-Chief among the manors dependent on Lewes and the personality of De
-Warren we find Brighton under its old Saxon name. It is a large and
-important place. It controls the chief arable district which falls
-within the command of Lewes Castle and of the Rape thereto appertaining.
-Rottingdean, next to it, also comes into the great survey, for
-Rottingdean is along the sea, and the parishes along the sea, as we have
-so frequently had occasion to repeat, are historically the first and
-economically the most valuable of Sussex.
-
-The next belt inland, the belt of the Downs, was uninhabited then as it
-is to-day, and will be perhaps throughout a remote future. But the old
-villages upon the strip of fertile land to the north of them are already
-well developed by the time the Normans come. Nay, they were Roman before
-they were Saxon, for Clayton and Ditchling, the two principal centres of
-the string of villages in this part, contain Roman remains. Keymer also
-is in Doomsday. So is Hurstpierpoint, under the name of Herste.
-Immediately northward you get the line of villages which are not
-developed until the wealth and the population of England have increased
-with the advent of the new civilisation. Typical of these is Cuckfield.
-It is not mentioned in Doomsday. It was then perhaps mere forest. It is
-not until the thirteenth century that it gets its market (from Henry
-III.), and we know that at that moment it was land held of the Warrens.
-Finally, at the very end of the same century, within a few years of the
-meeting of the great parliament of Edward I., and in the seventh year of
-his reign, we get the first hint of the demarcation of the Sussex border
-on the forest ridge. There is an inquiry into the rights of the Warrens
-to the free hunting of ground game in the forest of Worth, which extends
-over the crest of the forest ridge and down on to the Surrey side.
-
-Here we have an excellent example of the way in which the overlapping of
-Sussex into what is geographically Surrey occurred. The Warrens are very
-powerful nobles, much more powerful than those lordships in the Surrey
-towns who hold positions of no strategic importance, and whose garrisons
-were therefore not heavily endowed at the time of the Conquest. Being
-great lords the Warrens extend their hunting as far north as they can
-into the Weald. They go right up through the forest, over the ridge, and
-down on to the Surrey side. There is (it may be presumed) some complaint
-against them for this extravagance,
-
-[Illustration: GARDEN OF THE MOATED HOUSE, GROOMBRIDGE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE END AT WORTH]
-
-or some jealousy on the part of the Crown. They are examined, and under
-the inquisition come out triumphant; so that the effect of their family
-and of the Conqueror’s original disposition in the Rape may be said to
-have come to its final result when their claim over the extreme limit of
-the forest ridge was granted by Edward I., and Worth Forest was admitted
-to be within their jurisdiction and therefore within the county.
-
-This sketch model, as it were, of the way in which a rape has been built
-up,--first, the sea fortress, then the Wealden market-town, and lastly,
-the definition of the forest boundary,--may be borne in mind as we deal
-with the other five similar divisions into which Sussex fell.
-
-Lewes Rape, which we have just been considering, is the very central
-Rape of the whole county. If a line be drawn through Stanmer Park from
-north to south, and prolonged to the sea on one side and to the Surrey
-border on the other, such a line will be discovered to bisect the county
-into two almost exactly equal areas, and to bisect the Rape of Lewes in
-very much the same proportion.
-
-Lewes Rape is not only central, but is also the backbone, as it were,
-upon which the county has been built up. It is this which makes its
-development so typical of the general history of Sussex. The three
-Rapes to the west of it and the two Rapes to the east have been somewhat
-more open from the beginning of history, but not until one has
-understood Lewes Rape does one understand the growth of the Bramber,
-Chichester, and Arundel Rapes to the west, nor of those of Pevensey and
-Hastings to the east. For all, like Lewes, grew up from the sea, from
-the harbour mouth and a castle at the back of it, on northward through
-the old British villages under the Downs, till at last they stretched
-into the Weald and overlapped into what should properly be Surrey. But
-this process, though common to all, was modified in every special case
-by special circumstances to which we shall presently allude.
-
-The Rape of Pevensey is of a curious shape. It narrows somewhat towards
-the middle and bulges out towards the top, or north end. This appears to
-be the contrary of what one would expect in a Sussex division, the
-important part of which always lay round the sea coast, but the cause of
-the shape thus assumed by the Rape is that in its northern part the iron
-industry had arisen long before the Norman Conquest, and had thus opened
-up the Weald; it had also made the
-
-[Illustration: PEVENSEY CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: PEVENSEY RAPE]
-
-government of the area and the collection of taxes from it a subject of
-ambition for the strongest of the neighbouring lords.
-
-Such a lord was found in the Earl of Moreton, the brother-in-law of the
-Conqueror, who held the Castle of Pevensey, and who was the first
-controller of the district after the full Norman organisation began.
-
-Here, as in the case of Hastings, but unlike every other Rape, the seat
-of government, Pevensey, was actually upon the sea.
-
-The name of Pevensey is instructive of its antiquity. It is probably
-derived from Celtic roots signifying “the fortification at the far end
-of the wood,” which would exactly describe an important and fortified
-sea-coast town situated as Pevensey was situated to the forest from
-which it took its Roman name; for “Anderida,” or “Andresio,” certainly
-refers to the Weald, the Celtic forest of “Andred,” of which the Saxons
-made “the Andredswald.”
-
-Incidentally one may digress to point out how crude and insufficient is
-the greater part of our hurried modern philology. But for an accident no
-one would have been able to work out the meaning of this name of
-Pevensey. It was gradually shortened (after passing through the
-strangest forms) to “Pemsey,” a comparatively recent change in the
-spelling, due perhaps to local patriotism, or perhaps to the affectation
-of some studious landlord who, in reproducing the ancient form, gave us
-the present spelling of the word, from which we are able to trace its
-ancient Celtic roots; but how many place-names up and down South England
-must have been wrongly ascribed to Teutonic origin from our ignorance of
-the local method of pronunciation!
-
-It is doubtful whether anything of Roman structure remains in Pevensey,
-though much of the material used in the castle is Roman, and though the
-towers of that fortification are round. It is enough to remark, that
-after the long night of the Saxon period the town shared in the general
-renaissance of South England which followed the Norman Conquest. To give
-but one indication of this: it trebled in population in twenty years.
-There is little doubt that at this period, that is, throughout the end
-of the eleventh century, the whole of the twelfth, and beginning of the
-thirteenth, the harbour lay beneath the mound of the present ruins. The
-contour lines, slight as they are in elevation, and the nature of the
-soil are enough to prove this; nor is it difficult, as one stands on the
-height of Pevensey Castle, to reproduce the scene which must
-
-[Illustration: CLIFFS NEAR EASTBOURNE]
-
-[Sidenote: PEVENSEY TOWN]
-
-have presented itself to the eye of a man living six hundred years ago
-when he looked northwards and eastwards at high tide. The great marshy
-flats of the Level were a shallow bay covered by the sea, out of which
-bay there rounded in towards him a harbour protected from every side
-except the north-east, and even from that side exposed to no long drive
-of the weather. This harbour, which was naturally shallow, was probably
-deepened artificially, whether before or during the Roman occupation; it
-remained serviceable until past the close of that twelfth century which
-produced so many great changes in the physical condition as in the
-political constitutions of Western Europe. Thus Pevensey is one of the
-first of the lesser towns of England to receive its borough charter. It
-gets that charter in the ninth year of King John, and it counts as being
-politically the most important of the Cinque Ports, until there falls
-upon it the fate which has fallen upon every south-country harbour in
-turn. It was destroyed by that upon which it had lived, the sea. The
-beginning of the disaster, a mixture of drift silting up the harbour and
-of encroachment and breaking-down of its defences, may be dated from the
-middle of the thirteenth century, and after this date the decline
-continues with such rapidity that before the end of the French wars
-Pevensey is hardly a town. It has declined ever since.
-
-You get in the Rape of Pevensey, as in that of Lewes, the universal
-Sussex rule that the inhabited places are first found in the
-neighbourhood of the sea. But this rule is modified in the case of
-Pevensey Rape by the ironstone of the Eastern Weald. But for the
-industry arising from the use of this the forest ridge of Ashdown would
-have remained as lonely as that of St. Leonards. As it was, many places
-upon either slope of the ridge are known to have been inhabited from the
-earliest times; for instance, Mayfield, which may properly be regarded
-as a foot-hill of Ashdown Forest, and as a part of the true Weald, is
-connected with the name of St. Dunstan, and formed one of that
-procession of ecclesiastical palaces which the See of Canterbury held
-all along the centre of the county, and of which the last westward is
-Slindon. Again, Rotherfield is, quite possibly, as old as Offa, or
-older; at least, dues from that parish were claimed by the Monastery of
-St. Denis near Paris, which dues were said to have been bequeathed by
-Bertoald, one of Offa’s lieutenants, during the lifetime of Charlemagne,
-and before the close of the eighth century. Frant, though we do not hear
-of it by name
-
-[Illustration: MAYFIELD]
-
-[Sidenote: HASTINGS RAPE]
-
-until much later, was undoubtedly of great antiquity, and formed a sort
-of appendage to Rotherfield.
-
-When, however, one gets over the empty ridge of Ashdown and south on to
-the slope which looks at the Downs, the natural isolation of the Weald
-is to be traced. Buxted, for instance, is not heard of before 1298,
-though later it has the fine reputation of having cast the first cannon
-ever made in England. Uckfield close by is of no importance until the
-sixteenth century. When we turn to the sea coast, on the contrary,
-everything at once proves the antiquity of settlements in that
-neighbourhood. For example, you have discoveries at Alfriston, just
-behind Beachy Head, of British coins; you have Hailsham, mentioned in
-the Norman Survey; and on Mount Caburn, just above the Vale of Glynde,
-are some of the most perfect prehistoric fortifications in the county.
-
-The Rape of Hastings has, further, exceptions of its own, for here we
-come to the narrow eastern end of the county where there is no long
-hinterland of Weald to give us the normal development of the Sussex
-Rape. But even here there is a trace of that slower rising of the inland
-as compared with the sea-coast sites; thus Robertsbridge is the child of
-a monastery of the central Middle Ages. Battle was so little known
-until the great fight of 1066 that even its name appears in doubt at
-that epoch. On the other hand, Crowhurst we know to have been held by
-Harold. Bexhill is mentioned in Doomsday, and we know of the existence
-of Winchelsea and of Rye at the same epoch.
-
-The mention of these two towns cannot be allowed to pass without some
-description of their fate as seaports.
-
-Winchelsea, like Pevensey, contained, hooked in behind a peninsula of
-land, a harbour protected from the prevailing south-westerly winds, and
-here, as at Pevensey, it is possible to stand to-day and notice what
-original opportunities must have led to the later and partly artificial
-harbour. Its importance continued, as did that of Pevensey, into the
-middle of the thirteenth century, when the first of its disasters began
-in an overwhelming high tide. Rye is still a port, the port of the mouth
-of the Rother; but what a port, only those know who have attempted to
-make it even in the smallest of craft! Unless there should arise some
-local industry which will make it worth while to dredge the river and
-establish an expensive system of leading marks into its mouth, Rye
-within another hundred years will be no more than Sandwich.
-
-[Illustration: WINCHELSEA]
-
-[Sidenote: HASTINGS TOWN]
-
-The antiquity of the town of Hastings itself is among the most
-interesting points in the history of Sussex, as is also the name which
-the town bears. This name is usually ascribed to the pirate Hasting, or
-Hasten, who ravaged the coast and later sailed up the Thames, at the
-very end of the Danish invasions, during the reign of Alfred. It is at
-any rate one of the very few important Sussex names which are certainly
-and wholly Teutonic, and, if its derivation be exactly guessed, it is
-the only place-name in the county derived from the name of a man, for
-the derivation of Chichester from Cissa, the son of Aella, is obviously
-as legendary as the derivation of Portsmouth from “Port,” or indeed any
-other of the Anglo-Saxon myths.
-
-The antiquarian does not discover at first sight what feature it was
-which led to the early importance of Hastings. But, on a further
-consideration, it may be conjectured that the rise of the place depended
-upon the conjunction of two things not often found together, a safe
-beach and a strong isolated hill.
-
-Allusion has already been made, in the earlier part of this book, to the
-importance of a good beach in early navigation. As common a way as any
-other of making land, until the development of shipping in the later
-Middle Ages, was that still adopted by our South Coast fishermen. The
-vessels, though large, were of a shallow draft and of a broad beam; they
-were run upon the beach with a careful choice of the right moment
-between the breakers, and before the momentum of their “weigh” was
-wholly spent, two or three hands standing ready forward had leapt into
-the shallow water, and had prepared to direct the bows of the vessel
-over some form of roller when the next sea should thrust her farther up
-the shore. When once the bows had taken the roller above the sea line,
-the rest was easy. The advancing seas would necessarily push the vessel
-farther up the slope, and when a second or third roller had been placed
-under the keel a dozen or so of the crew could move even a heavy vessel
-up out of the way of the high tide. Nor would craft with so shallow a
-section as those used in the Dark and early Middle Ages have careened
-over to one side or another at all dangerously during the process of
-beaching. But for this manœuvre to be successful a particular kind of
-beach is required; the slope must be even, or one might damage one’s
-vessel against an abrupt bulge of it. It must not be too steep, or the
-rolling of the vessel will be too laborious for the crew. It must not be
-too slight, or the distance along which the
-
-[Illustration: THE STAR INN, ALFRISTON]
-
-[Sidenote: MILITARY IMPORTANCE OF HASTINGS]
-
-vessel has to be rolled will be too great to make the effort worth
-while. In material it must be firm and hard--a quality which gave its
-pre-eminence to the sand of Deal, for if it be shifty or sinking the
-difficulty of beaching the boat may be insuperable.
-
-Now all these characters are to be discovered in the shingle at
-Hastings, and added to these is the presence of a strong and easily
-fortified eminence.
-
-The importance of this sort of refuge can easily be minimised by the
-modern historian, but those acquainted with the conditions of an earlier
-time will appreciate its value. A fortress now serves, as Napoleon well
-put it, “to save time,” and serves little else in military purpose. In a
-sense this has always been the chief value of a fortress, but when one
-was dealing with smaller forces, more passionate and less constant in
-motive than those of to-day, and far more easily disintegrated than is a
-thoroughly civilised army, time was of far greater value in a campaign.
-Again, the defence was easier with a smaller body of men on account of
-the comparative inefficiency of projectiles, the comparative lack of
-training of the assaulting infantry, and the pre-dominance of cavalry
-tactics, between the fall of the Roman Empire and the invention of
-fire-arms. It may be roughly asserted that the power of the defensive
-behind properly constructed works grew to a maximum from the fifth to
-the middle of the twelfth century, remained almost stationary till the
-close of the thirteenth, and only slowly declined during the sieges of
-the French wars in the succeeding hundred years.
-
-Now under such conditions the importance of hills such as that of
-Hastings was very great. Here a garrison could, properly commanded, hold
-out almost indefinitely; it could, therefore, cover a landing or repel
-an invasion; it could gather under its protection a large and increasing
-population. The shape of the hill was precisely that required for
-fortification in the Dark and Middle Ages. It is, in its best form, an
-example of what you will find also at Chateau Gaillard in Normandy and,
-to a lesser degree, at Lewes and Arundel in this same county of Sussex,
-namely, a sort of peninsula or spur with a crowning summit of its own,
-united with the hills behind it by a comparatively narrow neck, over
-which assault should be impossible. In the modern sense and referring to
-modern artillery, such positions are extremely bad, for they are
-commanded by the higher range at their back; as Arundel is commanded by
-the heights of the
-
-[Illustration: HASTINGS--THE SHORE]
-
-[Sidenote: MILITARY IMPORTANCE OF HASTINGS]
-
-Park, Lewes by Mount Harry, and Chateau Gaillard by the woods locally
-known as “La Ferme”; indeed, in the case of this latter castle the
-conquest of Philip Augustus was largely due to the fact that missile
-weapons, even in his age, were just within range of the castle from the
-heights to the south and east. But though, under modern conditions, such
-situations are bad, under the conditions of at least the eleventh and
-early twelfth centuries, they were ideal. When William the Conqueror
-held Hastings there were no methods by which projectiles of sufficient
-strength could be thrown at the castle from the hills to the north-east,
-though a hundred years later, by the time of the Third Crusade, and
-later still, during the attack on the Norman castle already mentioned,
-such weapons had been developed. One has but to stand on the platform of
-the ruined stronghold of Hastings to see that, for at least the first
-hundred years after the Conquest, the place must have been, under any
-proper command, impregnable. And indeed we find attached to it in
-Anglo-Saxon times the epithet “ceaster,” which is never given to any
-place that has not been properly fortified, whether by the Romans or by
-their successors.
-
-This fortification of Hastings Hill leads one to mention two other
-castles which lie within the Rape, and which are illustrative of a
-feature to be discovered in Sussex alone among the English counties.
-This feature is the presence of subsidiary castles to strengthen the
-gates of the county, and to stand behind those principal castles whose
-primary function it is to defend the entries into the land. These
-subsidiary castles may be best explained to modern readers by using a
-modern metaphor, and saying that they act as “half-backs” to the great
-seaport castles of Sussex.
-
-The seaport castles have already been mentioned; we will repeat the list
-to refresh the reader’s memory: they are Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes,
-Bramber, and Arundel.
-
-Of these Lewes alone did not, so far as history knows, possess a
-subsidiary castle to the north of it, and that for this sufficient
-reason, that the road immediately north split eastward and westward, and
-forced an army either to pass within striking distance of Hurstmanceaux
-or within striking distance of Bramber, for the old road did not go over
-the bleak and deserted ridge of Ashdown as the modern one does. And the
-historic marches down south upon Lewes were undertaken in a
-
-[Illustration: HURSTMONCEAUX CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SECONDARY CASTLES]
-
-circuitous manner, as, for instance, that famous one of Henry III.,
-which ended in the defeat of the King in 1264.
-
-In the case of every other great defensive work a secondary work exists
-behind it. Hastings has Bodiam, Pevensey has Hurtsmanceaux, Bramber has
-Knepp (which has been more completely ruined than any of the others),
-Arundel has Amberley. Hurtsmanceaux should logically fall into the Rape
-of Pevensey, to which it strategically belongs. The accident of a river
-course makes it fall into the Rape of Hastings, and on this account we
-mention it here. The other castles will be dealt with in their proper
-place under each Rape as we deal with it; for Knepp is in the Rape of
-Bramber, and Amberley in that of Arundel.
-
-As Moreton had been given the overlordship of Pevensey, the government
-of its Rape, and many manors within it, and as Warren had been given
-Lewes, so Bramber fell to Braose, and that great name still stands
-written like a title over the history of this part of the county. The
-castle itself and some few of the many manors with which the family was
-richly endowed enjoyed a fate extremely rare in the case of English
-land, and on account of its rarity the more pleasing, when it is
-discovered; there has been a long and true continuity in their manorial
-lordship. With the French this continuity was quite common up to the
-Revolution, and to this day there are many French families, several
-Italian, and a few German, who can trace their lineage and their
-connection with particular portions of the soil well beyond the
-crusading epoch and even to the ninth or early tenth century. But our
-English aristocracy is exceedingly modern. The bulk of such few families
-as boast any antiquity at all can barely trace themselves to the
-Reformation; the mass of those who pose for lineage end in the mist of
-the seventeenth century. Bramber and some of the De Braose lands had
-better luck. For ten generations it remained in direct succession. When
-this ended (much at the same time as the Lancastrian usurpation) in an
-heiress, this heiress married a Mowbray, upon which family, almost
-immediately afterward, was conferred the Duchy of Norfolk. Ten
-successors, Mowbrays, held it in the direct line when, about a century
-after the first change, and a generation before the Reformation, it
-ended again in an heiress who married into the then undistinguished
-family of Howard, whose various branches had been careful, above all
-things, to increase their wealth by opportune
-
-[Sidenote: BRAMBER RAPE]
-
-alliances. To this new family the Duchy of Norfolk was soon conveyed,
-and after another ten successors the De Braose inheritance of Bramber is
-still to be found in their hands. It is a remarkable and a delightful
-example of a succession unbroken by purchase.
-
-The last sign of the ancient importance of Bramber lay in the fact that
-it returned, until the Reform Bill, two members to Parliament as a
-borough. It was then as it is now a small village, and there remained
-then as there remains now of its ancient castle nothing but one vast
-wall.
-
-Here, as is the case throughout all the other Rapes, the parishes along
-the sea coast or near it come earliest in history, and those of the
-Weald come last. Thus Lancing is in Doomsday; so is Coombes; so is
-Buttolphs (under Annington); Beeding is actually in Alfred’s will.
-Shoreham, as we have seen, entered history hundreds of years before, and
-Henfield is in the great Norman survey under the lordship of the Bishop
-of Chichester; but as you go northwards the names begin to fail you.
-Shipley, if we may judge by its church, was probably a development of
-the next century. Horsham is first mentioned as a town of importance in
-the thirteenth century, when it sends two members to the Parliament of
-the twenty-third of Edward I. And little Rusper, up in the far north, we
-do not hear of until there is mention of a convent of the same date. As
-for the forest of St. Leonard’s we know that De Braose held it, but, no
-more than in the case of Worth, is there any proof of its inhabitation
-or even importance till a much later date.
-
-The port of this Rape, Shoreham, has an interesting history as being yet
-another of those many ports which the long history of Sussex has seen
-decline. It lay so directly south of London, and, once communication was
-established across the Weald, it was so excellent a port of
-disembarkation for any one coming from the mouth of the Seine or any of
-the Norman ports, that it maintained a very high political importance
-right on into the fifteenth century. Thus it was the landing-place of
-John when he returned to England after the death of his brother.
-
-In the French wars under the third Edward it was assessed to furnish as
-many ships as Plymouth and two more than Bristol or London. Shortly
-after its decline began. That great bank of shingle, which is now
-covered with a very unpleasant little town of iron bungalows, grew up
-and obstructed
-
-[Illustration: BODIAM CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: SHOREHAM TOWN]
-
-the issue of the river, so that to-day the mouth of the harbour is far
-eastward of New Shoreham. The burgesses complained that they could no
-longer pay the old taxes, the borough rights lingered on; but even these
-at last disappeared in the eighteenth century, when the town was
-disfranchised and the whole Rape was represented together in its stead.
-Oddly enough it was at this very moment that the town began to revive;
-the trade in coal proved useful to it; it became, before the railways,
-the natural port for Brighton, which lies close by, and, year by year,
-it gradually though somewhat slowly recovered its old position. It now
-has probably as much trade as any other Sussex port except Newhaven,
-though the bar is still difficult for vessels of any draft, and the
-sharp turning at the entry of the harbour adds to the inconvenience of
-that refuge, as does the narrowness of the river and the steepness of
-its banks opposite the town itself.
-
-Its gradual revival did not re-enfranchise it; the Rape still remained
-the parliamentary unit to which it belonged, and the first member to sit
-for that division was a Burrell of Knepp Castle.
-
-With this name we get not only one of the famous Sussex squires, whose
-position will be dealt with later, but the principal historian of the
-county residing in one of its most ancient centres. The Burrells were
-lawyers of Horsham who purchased Knepp in the second half of the
-eighteenth century, a true Sussex family growing upon Sussex soil. The
-founder of the present baronetcy collected all the new material which
-has been worked in by subsequent writers into the history of the county.
-Much of this is luckily preserved in the British Museum, but some parts,
-unless the present writer is misinformed, disappeared during the recent
-fire in the modern house of Knepp Castle.
-
-Of the original fortification nothing remains but one little fragment in
-the south of the estate to the right of the Ashington road. The land has
-still one local distinction, however, in that it holds a sheet of water,
-Knepp mill-pond, which is said to be the largest unbroken area of water
-south of the Thames.
-
-Next in order to the Rape of Bramber comes that of Arundel. Here again
-the typical upgrowth of a Sussex Rape is modified by local conditions,
-for the Weald at the northern end of this Rape has been traversed since
-the beginning of our history by the great line of the Roman road.
-Arundel Rape has therefore been always accessible from
-
-[Illustration: ARUNDEL CASTLE]
-
-[Sidenote: ARUNDEL RAPE]
-
-the Thames valley, and the Thames valley from it. On this account there
-occurs, as one might imagine, a very early and very thorough development
-of all its habitable portion. A mere list of the places mentioned in
-Doomsday in this Rape, places which are still most of them quite small,
-and have never supported any great number of inhabitants, is surprising.
-Some, such as Arundel itself, and Climping and Felpham, go back to
-Anglo-Saxon times. One, Amberley, counts as part of the original
-foundation of the Church at the close of the eighth century, and
-Lyminster had a convent before the arrival of the Normans, while
-Littlehampton was certainly a port before the same date. Meanwhile a
-rapid survey of the names appearing in Doomsday, all within a walk of
-the sea coast, are sufficient to show how thoroughly the Arun valley,
-the subsidiary valley of the Western Rother, and the coastal plain west
-of the mouth of the river, had developed before the close of the
-eleventh century.
-
-Thus Barnham (to begin with the flat lands along the sea) is in
-Doomsday; so are Eastergate, Walberton, Tortington, where later was the
-famous priory which preserved the early records of the mayoralty of
-London, and in whose destruction the chief monuments of London history
-were lost. Binsted is in Doomsday. Turning to the slope of the Downs we
-find Goring is in Doomsday. Angmering below it, and on the belt of good
-loam land to the north of them Sutton, Barlavington, Duncton, Burton,
-Stopham, and Petworth are all to be found, as are Bury, Bignor, and
-Hardham, where later was to spring up the priory of the Hauterives. On
-the far side of the river Parham and Burpham are mentioned, so is
-Storrington, and on the river itself Pulborough; while even such lonely
-nooks of the Downs as Upper Waltham come into the Norman Survey.
-
-All this fell to the Montgomerys. Very shortly afterwards, by the
-failure of that family, the guardianship of the castle at Arundel and
-the headship of the Rape went to the De Albinis; to them succeeded the
-Fitz Alans, and to them again, when they ended in an heiress, succeeded
-the ubiquitous and ever watchful family of Howard, who snapped up that
-inheritance before it could fall to any other, and the new Duchy of
-Norfolk added not only the Rape of Arundel to that of Bramber, but also
-a sort of headship over the Rape of Chichester,--for Chichester had gone
-with Arundel in the original grant to Montgomery.
-
-[Illustration: AMBERLEY CHALK PITS]
-
-[Sidenote: ARUNDEL TOWN]
-
-The town of Arundel is singular among English sites of the first rank,
-from the fact that it has neither increased nor diminished to any
-considerable extent for at least a thousand years.
-
-It is probable that there was here in Roman times a crossing of the
-river, though the point is hotly denied by the more pedantic among our
-historians, because, so far, no Roman remains have been found under the
-soil of the town, or at least none have been identified by casual
-visitors. But, whether it was a Roman town or not, it is certain that
-from the moment the isolated spur upon which the castle stands was
-crowned with strong fortifications and garrisoned by the central
-authority of England, a town of much the same size as the modern Arundel
-must have been grouped round its base.
-
-Those who deal most with the statistics of the early Middle Ages seem
-most blind to the conclusions of common sense. When they are told that
-only ten or twenty burgesses are to be discovered in a particular town,
-according to the evidence of some taxing list, they are willing to jump
-to the conclusion that only ten or twenty families existed in the place
-at the time the list was made. Instead of appreciating the very natural
-attitude of any tax-gatherer to save himself all possible labour, and
-the certitude that he would put down only those who were assessed in his
-particular tax, and instead of grasping the fact that, until the later
-Middle Ages, men paid taxes, not by localities, but by categories (some
-as King’s men, some as local baron’s men, some as the Church’s men,
-others according to all manner of local apportionments), they take the
-very crude way of estimating the particular document they have as an
-index of total population. It is this, for example, which has led to the
-astounding conclusion that England at the time of the Norman invasion
-held less than two million souls, and it is this which makes people
-misunderstand, if they read modern histories, the nature of a town like
-Arundel.
-
-So long as the spur above the Arun was protected by marshes and isolated
-by a narrow neck from the main range of the Downs, so long would it
-tempt men to form a stronghold there, and the moment that stronghold was
-held by national forces under the obedience of a national King, it
-presupposed a county town. It presupposed defence for a market (the
-later _license_ for a market is quite a different thing; the market
-existed often for centuries before the license which was usually
-
-[Illustration: MIDHURST--KNOCK HUNDRED ROW]
-
-[Sidenote: ARUNDEL TOWN]
-
-only the proof of the King’s growing power); it presupposed butchers
-under the castle walls, money-changers, men coming to and from the
-garrison for every sort of purpose, carriers, and--to quote a particular
-point--barbers; the men of the Dark and early Middle Ages were clean
-shaven. An Arab fortress does not arise nowadays without a town at its
-foot, still less would the civilisation of the Dark and Middle Ages
-produce the stronghold without producing a town as well. And a town
-means something more than a village.
-
-The bridge at Arundel, which one may believe, though one cannot prove,
-to be Roman in its origin, used to cross the river somewhat farther down
-the stream. The line of the modern High Street points directly to that
-part of the town which now looks very like a continuation of the
-market-place, and has become a sort of backwater in the traffic of the
-place. It was originally the direct line to the old bridge. Those
-acquainted with Arundel will best appreciate the site of the old
-crossing of the river when they learn that the modern Bridge Hotel lies
-exactly between the ancient and the modern bridges, and the line of the
-causeway eastward can further be traced by the existence at the farther
-end of it, up against the high land, of the old building which is seen
-from the station between the railway and the rising ground.
-
-Amberley Castle, which lay at the north end of Arundel gap, is not
-preserved in its entirety, but is still a fine ruin, and occupies, as
-Arundel did, a position of great military strength, though it does not
-dominate the landscape as does the larger fortress. The strength of
-Amberley lay in this, that from the north and west it was quite
-unattainable. If the culture of those fields now known by the highly
-descriptive name of “Amberley Wildbrook” were to cease for a generation,
-the old conditions would be reproduced; the floods would soon turn them
-into marsh again. From the east the approach is not easy: it lies over
-the rolling spurs of the Downs. From the south there is only one narrow
-passage on the shelf of the Downs as they slope down to the Arun. It is
-a tradition in the county that the two castles of Arundel and Amberley
-were linked together in their system of fortification by an underground
-passage, and stories are told--with what authority the present writer
-cannot say--of men who have attempted to explore either end of this
-passage and succeeded for a certain distance. The thing is possible
-enough.
-
-[Illustration: AMBERLEY CHURCH]
-
-[Sidenote: HOUGHTON BRIDGE]
-
-Amberley is at any rate one of the very, very old sites of human
-habitation in Sussex. It is the fashion to decry monastic charters, and
-it would be difficult to prove, though it was for centuries constantly
-asserted, that Amberley was part of the original foundation of the
-Church of Selsea. We have regarded it as sufficiently historical to be
-included in former pages of this book, but whether the monastic
-traditional charter be true or false, its very existence proves that the
-popular legend attributed to the place the highest antiquity.
-
-Houghton, which lies in the neck of the gap, is certainly equally old.
-That British trackway which was mentioned when the topography of Sussex
-was being described, and which runs all along the rich loam belt
-immediately to the north of the Downs, had to cross the river at some
-point. Now it is the universal rule of the old British trackways that
-they spy out the narrowest part of the wet lands when they attempt to
-cross a river. They descend by the nearest spur upon the one side, and
-make for the nearest firm land upon the other. At this spot the river
-Arun curves strongly eastward and runs right under the Downs. The
-marshes to the westward of it are still often flooded and were once wide
-and impassable, but at Houghton there is a spur coming down across them
-which, while it does not actually bridge the gap, comes near to doing
-so. That hollow sunken lane, which is the modern descendant of the old
-British road, runs from Bury just above the flood line on dry soil; it
-climbs up on to the spur close to an old and reverend inn called “The
-St. George and Dragon,” and then turns sharp to the left down along the
-crest of the spur, making for the shortest possible crossing which the
-marshes afford. It is not too much to say that we are certain the Arun
-has been crossed at this point since prehistoric men first attempted to
-pass the river as they journeyed north of the Downs.
-
-The connection of the place with modern history is also not without
-interest. It was here that Charles II., escaping in disguise after the
-battle of Worcester, took what was perhaps his last glass of ale, or at
-least his last glass of ale in the saddle, on his way to Shoreham, from
-which happy port he got away to his long exile. The house is still
-licensed, and cursed be the man who takes that license away.
-
-The historical importance of Houghton is further evidenced by the name
-of the wood which lies up beyond Whiteways on the slope of the
-
-[Sidenote: THE RAPE OF CHICHESTER]
-
-Downs, which still retains the name of Houghton Forest, indicating that
-the Crown hunting lands, or, if the modern phrase be preferred, the
-national preserves, of the neighbourhood depended upon this valley
-village two miles off. There is little more to say with regard to the
-historical development of the Rape of Arundel. The villages and towns of
-the Weald are here, as elsewhere, of a late development. Slinfold, for
-example, is not mentioned in Doomsday, nor is Billingshurst, though the
-latter is probably Celtic in origin. Pulborough, which like
-Billingshurst lies on the Roman road, is the last of the outposts of the
-Weald to be spoken of in that document, while the excellent village of
-North Chapel was actually not detached from the parish of Petworth until
-as late a date as 1693.
-
-The Rape of Chichester has this character to differentiate it from the
-other rapes of the county, that it is not military. Two explanations of
-this fact concur and supplement each other. The Rape of Chichester led
-nowhere, and had no gap in its hills, and the Rape of Chichester was
-dominated by the Church.
-
-We have seen that all the Rapes of Sussex, leading as they did from
-north to south, tended to group themselves round highways from the
-Channel to the Thames valley, and Chichester, with its large though
-shallow harbour, certainly did afford an admirable entry into England
-for early navigation; but, once one had made the town, one’s way to
-London and the North lay up the Stane Street, and this Roman road went
-through no populous districts nor through any of those gaps which men
-(after Roman times) would naturally seek for their advance, but went
-straight over the bleak and desolate Downs, and by the time it got to
-the crest of these it was within half an hour’s smart riding of the
-garrison of Arundel. Westward no man would go. The marshes prevented
-him. Neither would he advance northward; he would have found in that
-direction, after crossing the pass at Singleton, a fertile valley indeed
-to raid, but no good opportunity for further progress. Before him would
-have lain the large sandy wastes which began at what is now the Sussex
-border by Fernhurst, and continued right on to the neighbourhood of the
-Thames. They are to-day filling up with villas, but they were,
-throughout the centuries in which our history was made, empty deserts
-yielding no corn and affording no shelter of towns or villages to an
-army. Supposing that an enemy, as for instance a pirate raid of the
-Danes, were
-
-[Illustration: MERMAID STREET, RYE]
-
-[Sidenote: ITS ECCLESIASTICAL CHARACTER]
-
-making for the lowlands of the Rother valley, or farther on for the rich
-pastures of the Wey (where later was to spring up the wealth and
-magnificence of Waverley), such a sailors’ raid would certainly have
-proceeded up the Arun and tried to force its way past Amberley Castle.
-It would never have made the attempt through Chichester.
-
-There is, then, a clear topographical and strategical reason for the
-immunity of the Rape of Chichester from military conditions. There is
-also an ecclesiastical reason. It is a thing not to be forgotten, that
-from the fall of the Roman Empire to the Renaissance the contrast
-between the ecclesiastical and the civil method of government was a
-reality. It afforded for men’s minds something of the foil or background
-which to-day the legal aspect of society gives us as against the
-commercial, or the conception of a gentleman as against the conception
-of a rich man. The contrast was, of course, much more vigorous and
-satisfactory than any of our modern contrasts can be. We see it in a
-thousand ways illuminating the history of the Middle Ages; by way of
-sanctuary, by way of the ecclesiastical courts, by way of the atonement
-which men paid for violence when they founded great monasteries, by way
-of the technical abstention from capital sentences which the Church
-rigorously preserved. It is not fantastic to ascribe to this cause the
-fact that the Rape of Chichester held no important castle and was the
-site of no great battle. Nor is it ridiculous to imagine that the
-somewhat ungeographical inclusion of the parish of Slindon into the
-hundred of Aldwick, and therefore into the Rape of Chichester, had
-something to do with this ecclesiastical quality. For Slindon was
-Canterbury’s; Stephen Langton died there.
-
-Here, as in the Rape of Arundel, everything within a march of the sea
-was in Doomsday, and the actual entries from the sea are known before
-Doomsday; for example, there is Bosham, from which we have seen that
-Harold sailed on that pleasure trip of his to Normandy. Right up in the
-Downs Doomsday parishes continue, as Singleton, which is the mother of
-West Dean, and lies in the same internal valley or fold of the hills as
-does that other parish of Upper Waltham, which we have already
-discovered to be included in the Doomsday Survey in the Rape of Arundel.
-So with the loam belt to the north of the Downs in this Rape. Graffham
-is in Doomsday, Cocking is in Doomsday, and while Heyshott is not
-actually in
-
-[Illustration: SINGLETON]
-
-[Sidenote: SCILLY SUSSEX]
-
-Doomsday, it is alluded to a little later as Percy Land held of the
-Montgomerys. But once we get into the neighbourhood of the Weald the
-dates fall later. Midhurst is a full borough in the early fourteenth
-century under Edward II., and not before.
-
-The Rape of Chichester is not only the principal ecclesiastical
-influence in the county; it is, one might say with no great
-exaggeration, the only one. By which it is not meant that the Church as
-a whole did not have its full effect in the county; on the contrary, in
-moulding the type of Sussex character the Church had, if possible, a
-greater influence than it had in moulding the character of any other
-county. To this day we talk of “Scilly Sussex,” which means “holy
-Sussex,” just as we talk of “Hampshire hogs” or “Kentish men with
-tails”; and all up and down the soil of the county are to be seen the
-noblest collection of parish churches in England, the proofs of an
-ancient devotion.
-
-But ecclesiastical influence, exercised as an economic power and with
-deliberate intention, is less strong in Sussex during the Middle Ages
-than in any other county. The monasteries were not very numerous, and
-when they were rich (which they rarely were) they do not seem to have
-had a very considerable effect upon the life of the county. The towns,
-of course, possessed their monks, as did all the towns of England; Lewes
-had its Benedictines, Arundel its Dominicans, and so forth. But the
-monks who, throughout the west of Europe, reclaimed land, opened up
-empty and uncultivated spaces, and were the pioneers of the mediæval
-civilisation, did nothing for this county on the same scale as they did,
-say, for the North country, or for East Anglia. The reason is plain.
-Sussex was cut off while the earlier part of the monastic effort was at
-work, and was very rapidly developed by a civil influence the moment
-that isolation ceased with the coming of the Normans.
-
-Hardham and Boxgrove are almost the only examples which point by their
-sites to the economic work of the early monasteries, for they both lie
-along one of the old Roman roads; but both of them came comparatively
-late. Boxgrove was founded by the lords of Halnacker under Henry I.,
-Hardham was later still. Robertsbridge, also a development of the
-central Middle Ages, may be cited as an example of the monks opening up
-wild country, but Battle was quite artificial, the result
-
-[Illustration: GATEHOUSE, BATTLE ABBEY]
-
-[Sidenote: THE MONASTERIES]
-
-of a vow paid and of the accidental site of a battle. Moreover, Battle,
-thus artificial, was by far the wealthiest of all. At the time of the
-dissolution Hammond, the last abbot (who surrendered with great
-pusillanimity to Henry VIII., and against whom the gravest charges have
-lain), gave up revenues of £1000 a year in the currency of the
-times--far more than £10,000 of our money. Boxgrove itself could only
-count about one hundred and fifty pounds.
-
-The priory of Tortington, next to Arundel, is interesting in the history
-of England for reasons already mentioned, but it was not wealthy. Almost
-every other foundation, as the Dominicans of Chichester or Winchelsea,
-or those we have previously noted at Arundel, or the Franciscans of
-Winchester and Lewes, or those near the north gate of Chichester, or the
-Carmelites of New Shoreham, or the Friars of Rye, are connected with
-towns and do not therefore concern the development of the county.
-
-So far we have been dealing with the historic basis upon which Sussex,
-like every other part of England, has been built.
-
-We have seen that upon the prehistoric origin of which we know hardly
-anything came Rome. We have seen that the Italian race laid down the
-bed upon which all the rest was to rise--a bed, firm, hard, and even,
-like their own concrete. It was a process occupying in this island some
-four hundred years.
-
-Upon Britain, as upon every other western province, fell the barbarian
-invasions of the fifth century. We have seen that they were somewhat
-more severe here than in other provinces, and that Sussex in particular
-was swept clean by them, not indeed of her race, but of her religion and
-her civilisation. The darkness resultant upon this catastrophe lasted
-for little more than a hundred years, but in that hundred years
-everything which gives dignity to mankind had disappeared, and the
-countryside, from Romney Marsh westward away to Chichester Haven, had
-gone savage. We have seen that it was slowly re-Christianised and
-recivilised, but that the planting of good stems upon such a devastated
-soil was for long a difficult and an unfruitful business. The mission of
-St. Wilfrid coincides with the close of the eighth century. It is not
-till the middle of the eleventh that Sussex really re-enters the
-European unity; it is not till the close of it that the influence of
-that unity begins to be largely felt after the Norman Conquest.
-
-[Illustration: WINCHELSEA MILL]
-
-[Sidenote: THE RISE OF THE SQUIRES]
-
-Two hundred and fifty years pass, during which the social development of
-England and of Sussex keeps the main lines laid down by the Conquest;
-the central government is still strong, the conception of tenure still
-weighs upon the wealthy class, and all men are responsible somewhere to
-some lord. Briefly, the mediæval system is during that period alive;
-here, as in northern France. And this island and northern France form,
-between them, until the close of the thirteenth century, the heart of
-Christendom. It is in them that arise the great philosophic discussions
-of the new universities, the Gothic architecture, the feudal scheme, the
-true co-operative industry of the mediæval manor.
-
-For as long as that society could endure, that society was organised;
-and in Sussex the organisation, or, to use a better word, the sense of
-authority, is to be discovered in the great “Rape” overlordships,
-Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes, Bramber, Arundel, and Chichester, whose
-growth has been already sketched.
-
-It so happened that that mediæval system grew old and failed.
-
-The period of time between its failure and the present day is
-comparatively short, as the history of mankind goes. Its break-down is
-only apparent to the historian with the middle of the fourteenth
-century; it is not suspected by its own victims till the middle of the
-fifteenth. We are to-day but in the beginning of the twentieth. It may
-be said, roughly, that four hundred years of change alone separate us
-from that organic unity which had survived for fifteen hundred years
-from the civilisation that the Mediterranean brought us. We feel a world
-away from that organic unity of the Middle Ages, because these last four
-centuries have been so full of an active intelligence and of an
-increasing material knowledge, that these take up nearly the whole
-horizon of our minds; but our detachment is but apparent and illusory.
-At bottom our morals, in so far as they are permanent, our conception of
-civic life, our modern appetite for economic justice, are all rooted in
-the Middle Ages; and the more a modern man learns of them the more he
-feels that they are his native place.
-
-The process of disintegration which the mediæval system suffered took in
-Britain a peculiar form, and in this most typical district of Britain,
-in Sussex, that form is clearly to be traced. The village, which was the
-unit of mediæval life, was essentially co-operative. As the segregation
-of individual industry arose, either the lord was certain
-
-[Sidenote: THE RISE OF THE SQUIRES]
-
-to become, from the head official of a corporation, a proprietor of the
-whole, or the villein, his tenant, was bound to become, from a member of
-a co-operative society, a proprietor of his part. There was not room for
-both. Elsewhere, in all northern France, and to some extent in the
-valley of the Rhine, the break-up of the mediæval system is the attack
-of the peasant upon his lord. It is (spread over a much longer period)
-something like the campaign which the Irish have inaugurated in our own
-time. It is a movement towards peasant proprietorship.
-
-In England the development is very different. Feudalism in England, even
-when it was highly organised, as in Sussex, had to fight against a force
-which is almost inherent in the soil. For that force it is difficult to
-find a name, though it is a tendency clearly observable in the whole of
-English history. It may, perhaps, best be defined as the tendency of the
-English village group to submit to one lord, _coupled with the lack of
-any tendency among these lords to coalesce under a superior_. The system
-is essentially oligarchic, and its foundations were laid in the natural
-crystallisation of society during the anarchy of the Anglo-Saxon
-centuries. With his inheritance of law weakened, and his memory of a
-protecting government destroyed, the small man had not the wit or the
-courage to fight against the big man; hence the English squire. The big
-men had not the necessity forced upon them to unite in defence of an
-antique civilisation and a strong Roman tradition; hence the permanent
-insecurity and ultimate abasement of the English monarchy.
-
-The latter of these two forces you see at work continually in the
-history of England during that space which lies between the Norman
-Conquest and the Barons’ Wars, when the attempt to govern from a centre
-was made and failed. The village aristocracy is always stronger than the
-Crown, and in some sense expresses a national action against the Crown.
-At first this aristocracy merely supported the barons (who were their
-nominal overlords) in the joint attack upon monarchy, but as the
-centuries pass the overlords themselves lose their hegemony. At last,
-round about the period of the Reformation, the lords of single manors,
-the squires, become completely independent, and their final, wholly
-successful effort matures when the Tudors are no longer there with their
-violent personalities to defend the symbol, the remaining symbol, of a
-central authority.
-
-[Illustration: GLYNDE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX FAMILIES]
-
-The Stuarts break down. The squires arm. The Crown is defeated. A king
-is beheaded. From thence onward a process which was easily apparent in
-the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, which had taken on strength with
-the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth, which had become of
-further importance with the large transfers of land at the end of
-Elizabeth’s reign, is completed. The seventeenth century sees in Sussex,
-as throughout England, the final victory of the village landlords, their
-complete possession of the soil and of the people who dwell upon it, and
-their complete independence from any authority over them.
-
-There are many brief historical surveys which illustrate the rise of the
-landed families. Among the easiest for a general reader to take, and
-also the most instructive, is the list of the public offices of the
-county. We have a fairly complete calendar of the sheriffs from the
-purely feudal times to our own, and there we may trace the dignity
-falling more and more into the hands of county men. The local patriotism
-and its result, the strong local oligarchy, which are between them the
-warp and the woof of England, are exhibited here at one glance. The
-names mentioned are not always those of sheriffs for Sussex alone,
-especially in the earlier times; but their names and their places of
-origin are significant.
-
-We begin that list not quite a hundred years after the Conquest, in the
-reign of Henry II. The names are drawn from all over England. They are
-merely royal officers and they do not concern us. But as the Middle Ages
-come to their end, the names which we can identify as those of the local
-gentry begin to tell. You get, just at the beginning of the Wars of the
-Roses, the Ashburnhams and the Stricklands. In Edward IV.’s reign you
-find for the first time a Goring (who was then not even a knight). You
-get the Gainsfords of Crowhurst, and the Coombes (honoured name!),
-presumably of Coombes in the vale of the Adur. Just before the
-Reformation the Oxenbridges of Brede and the Dawtreys of Petworth, who
-founded Hardham Priory, and whose name proceeds from the high banks
-(“d’Haute Rive”) of the water meadows of Arun. You get again that good
-Sussex name, the Palmers of Angmering, and so on to the Civil Wars.
-There are further Gorings and Morleys, also a Glynde, and, just before
-the struggle, a bishop a knight of Parham.
-
-It is after the Restoration, of course, when the
-
-[Illustration: ANGMERING MILL]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX FAMILIES]
-
-victory of the squires was complete and final, that the habit becomes
-fixed, and that you find (until quite recent times) nothing but Sussex
-names in the great roll of the sheriffs. There is a sort of gap under
-William and Mary, who were usurpers and disturbed the order of England;
-but with Anne reasonable things returned. The names of Blunt and Shelley
-appear, which still adorn the county; and under the Hanoverians, the
-Bartelotts of Stopham, and many another family which still holds land
-within the centre and in the west of the county, are to be found upon
-the rolls.
-
-Not until the Reform Bill does the tradition begin to change. Then you
-find a Curzon coming in out of nowhere; and since then, one must dare
-say, many another man who is simply rich, and who simply happens to have
-settled upon Sussex land.
-
-We may now turn to examine in detail those Sussex families which have
-become bound up with the history of the county; some of them originally
-territorial; some of them professional, acquiring wealth in their
-professions, and achieving territorial rank; many of them passing from
-one part of the county to another, but all remaining a true framework
-for the countryside.
-
-Alongside with them we shall be able to trace a most deplorable
-vicissitude in the ownership of certain manors which has, most
-unfortunately, not ceased to-day, but has rather increased, and which
-very seriously menaces the future integrity of the county.
-
-It is impossible, of course, to give a complete survey of the process in
-these few pages, but the consideration of a few typical manors and,
-after that, of a few typical families will suffice to fill in that
-general impression of the county which it is the object of this book to
-convey.
-
-Consider, for example, the Manor of Cuckfield, and see the way in which
-the squirearchy develops. One may presume that throughout the true
-Middle Ages it preserved at least a semblance of depending upon the
-overlordship of the Rape, and the Fitz Alans can count themselves its
-masters.
-
-But as the Lancastrian usurpation breaks the great families a local
-consideration comes in. In the eighteenth year of Henry VI. the manor
-was divided between four co-heiresses, and so remained divided into four
-pieces (each still held by great families, but each holding the germ of
-a future squire in its small limits), until the last half of the
-sixteenth century, when two men, Bowyer and Covert, introduce (in the
-sixteenth and twenty-third
-
-[Illustration: NEAR HARDHAM]
-
-[Sidenote: GRAFFHAM AND LAVINGTON]
-
-years of Elizabeth respectively) a new stock upon the old land.
-
-Within a hundred years there comes in one Sigerson, perhaps of the
-middle class, a Commissioner of the Navy; he buys the estate, his family
-hold it throughout the eighteenth century, and are the principal owners
-at this day.
-
-This tendency of lands to remain in the same hands till the close of the
-Middle Ages, and then to be bought up by a new race of squires, may be
-traced in many another parish. There is Graffham, which does not change
-hands until after the Armada, when a certain Garter of London buys it;
-it then passes by the marriage of an heiress to the first of the
-Sargeants; an heiress of the Sargeants after many generations marries
-the man who was afterwards Cardinal Manning; another heiress (by this
-time the family held Lavington close by) marries Wilberforce, the
-bishop, and, right in our own time, his son sells it to a Scotch
-distiller.
-
-Or consider again Madehurst which, until the reign of Elizabeth, holds
-of the Arundel earls; then one Dixse has it in fee; then it passes to
-the Kemps, and they sell it to Sir George Thomas (whose family sold it
-again), after which it passes by a second sale in 1825 to John Smith;
-and at last we see it in the middle and end of the nineteenth century in
-the hands of a manufacturing family who had chosen to assume the ancient
-name of Fletcher.
-
-Eartham (to quote another example) went to King Henry VIII. in exchange
-for Michelham Priory; in the middle of the eighteenth century a
-Chichester man bought it, one Hayley; a generation later, Huskisson, the
-politician; then the Milbankes; and then again, quite recently, a man
-whose name is connected with a custard powder.
-
-Singleton went down traditionally until the Reformation; nay, till that
-year after the Armada, when Graffham also had slipped; then, in 1589, it
-changes hands, passing from a noble to a squire. It remained in his
-family till the beginning of the eighteenth century; it is sold and
-re-sold, passing from hand to hand. Within present memory first a
-squire, and then a northern Quaker, and at last a wealthy racing family
-have held it, one after the other.
-
-As might be imagined, the Church lands, their lineage abruptly torn
-apart at the Reformation, suffered fates even more revolutionary, and
-produced a squirearchy even more tenacious by its
-
-[Illustration: MICKLEHAM PRIORY]
-
-[Sidenote: NEWTIMBER]
-
-wealth, and even less attached by tradition to the county of Sussex.
-Thus Newtimber, which had come down from Doomsday, is seized by Thomas
-Cromwell. The King chucks it to Anne of Cleves; then you find a Darrell
-in possession; then a Bellingham (holding of Lord Abergavenney in the
-sixteenth year of Charles I.) It is left to one Woodcock, whose
-daughter, after the Restoration, marries a Cust; and then, following the
-universal fate, it is sold to a yeoman of Poynings, one Osborne, whose
-grandson in 1741 sells it to a Newnham, whose grandson, again, early in
-the last century, sells it to a Gordon, etc.
-
-An historian might make many exceptions. The fortified places have most
-of them held out (as it is their nature to hold out) against change. We
-have already pointed out that Bramber and Arundel have had a continuous
-tenure. Bosham goes right down from the confiscation after the Conquest
-to the nineteenth century without alienation. But take Sussex land as a
-whole: the sixteenth century first and the Restoration afterwards have
-dug an impassable gulf.
-
-It is pleasant for those who love certitude to pass from such
-vicissitudes to something allied to the tradition of the land, but more
-permanent than it: the tradition of the owners of the land. It is
-pleasant to note the continuity of certain Sussex families, their
-origin, and their grip upon the soil.
-
-Thus the Shelleys have not only glorified Sussex by producing at the end
-of their line her chief poet, but have also welded themselves into the
-soil of this happy county.
-
-Shelley, whose great name might almost add something to the splendour of
-the land upon which he was born, will be remembered because that birth
-of his was next to Horsham. The story of his family will show how widely
-it was spread over Sussex land, and how worthy it was of inheriting such
-skies and such a landscape as could produce a master of verse.
-
-The name, oddly enough, is from Kent; indeed there has been, since the
-centuries after the Conquest, a continual movement westward from Kent
-into Sussex of which the Shelleys are but one example.
-
-Long before family names arose, while men were still called by their
-Christian names and their land was mentioned after them, the men of
-Shelley in Kent were lords of Shelley. They were there in the end of the
-thirteenth century, they were there until the middle of the fourteenth;
-at that epoch
-
-[Illustration: THE MERMAID INN, RYE]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SHELLEYS]
-
-one John Shelley went westward, for the good of England. The Lancastrian
-usurpation, that watershed in our social history, is apparent here. John
-Shelley is returned for the Commons of Rye, just after Agincourt. He had
-a son who went still farther west, and, coming to Mitchegrove, married
-the daughter and the heiress of the lord of that place, a certain John,
-who took his name, as was right, from his own land. This settlement of
-the family endured through the Reformation. After this latter date the
-Shelleys marry into Buckhurst; still further on before the Civil Wars
-they exchange their Warwickshire lands for further Sussex holdings; in
-the eighteenth century one finds them marrying into Maresfield. Already
-they had a hold upon Findon. Up on St. Leonard’s Forest you find their
-name in one of the first of the ploughed lands which open that deserted
-belt, and they remain to-day Sussex in name, place, and position.
-
-To take but one other example, and that of a very different kind, the
-Blunts of Crabbet Park are Sussex, though of a later stock. Here also we
-have a westward movement coming in with the last migration of the
-squires. For Thomas Blunt (a Collector of Customs in Kent) had a
-grandson, Elyas, fixed at Bolney; his name is not without significance
-of the time in which he lived. This man married the heiress of New
-Buildings after the Restoration, and perhaps in the Civil Wars the
-family acquired those waste spaces of the Crown which now make up the
-larger part of their holdings. At any rate that family has produced at
-the end of its line to-day another poet, and again a poet of Sussex.
-
-The list might be multiplied, but it will be of little purpose to
-develop it in so short a summary as this. It is our purpose rather to
-show how, until quite recent years, Sussex lands ran into the hands of a
-group of families who perpetually interchanged their holdings, and who
-yet remained full of the county air, until there came that modern
-diversion by which so much of the county has fallen to those who have
-nothing of its spirit, and who only come into it as into a sort of park,
-for their momentary pleasure.
-
-For until the last two generations nothing was more tenacious than the
-Sussex squire to his soil. Long after the Reform Bill, nay, right into
-our own time, Sussex land was not sold to outsiders, and Sussex social
-conservatism was unbroken. The moral health of its villages was keen and
-singular; the squire was of no excessive wealth, the farmer
-
-[Illustration: BURY CHURCH]
-
-[Sidenote: SUSSEX JUST PAST]
-
-securing his tenancy, the labourer glad of his wage, and living on from
-grandfather to grandson, secure also of his position in the village. The
-old arts, which are the test of vitality in any commonwealth,
-survived--to this day there are villages where the thatcher can thatch
-as he can in no other part of England; for instance, in Walberton he can
-do so. To this day Sussex retains in some of her remoter hamlets, for
-instance in Bury, the true Broadcast Sower.
-
-There is a phase of English history which all lovers of England look
-back upon with regret; it is a phase whose complete literary expression
-is to be found in Gray’s Elegy; it was in the purpose of whatever guides
-this county that such a phase should not be very long-lived, but while
-it lasted perhaps the happiness of the English countrysides was higher
-than it had been before within our historical memory, or will be again
-within the limits of our continuous tradition. Of this happiness it can
-be almost proved that Sussex presented the chief example, but just
-because the county had reached such a goal it was destined to a measure
-of change.
-
-When Sussex had fallen into what seemed a permanent phase of large
-agricultural estates, held by the most contented gentry and tenantry in
-England, there fell upon this state of affairs a foretaste of what was
-to happen throughout the county with the great economic revolution of
-the nineteenth century; a great town began to arise and to grow with
-startling rapidity in one devoted portion of the countryside.
-
-It is curious that Sussex, whose character and whose pleasure it has
-always been to live its own life, and to stand apart from the
-development of the rest of the island, or at least to develop only after
-the rest of the island has made its particular experiments, and has
-proved its experiments wise,--it is curious that Sussex should in this
-one case, and that a most important one, have gone before the rest of
-England. For Sussex was the county to develop the great watering-places
-and the great centres of population (as apart from the centres of
-industry) which first created, then were so vastly increased by, the
-railway system.
-
-The reason is, of course, not far to seek. Sussex possessed the nearest
-coast-line to London, and presented that coast in an aspect most
-attractive to Londoners.
-
-No very considerable harbours disfigure it. The trade with France was
-not a trade of such a
-
-[Sidenote: THE WATERING TOWNS]
-
-volume as that which has created Liverpool or long ago created Bristol.
-It was a busy, small agricultural trade.
-
-Again, all along the coastal plain there is a beach; and a beach, when
-people once begin to take their pleasure by the sea, is a necessity for
-that pleasure.
-
-Again, the line to this coast was close and direct. Every one who has
-bicycled or walked from London to the Kentish shores knows what a
-different task it is compared to a half-day’s run to the South
-Coast--the Sussex Coast is the “South Coast” for London, and the only
-one.
-
-The first town to be developed in this manner was Brighton, and Brighton
-was not so much created by the fashion of the Prince Regent as by the
-fact of its proximity to London. It is the nearest point which Londoners
-can reach when they desire to enjoy the sea. It grew up in a manner to
-be paralleled nowhere else in England.
-
-There are other characters in connection with the extension of this
-great town far more remarkable than the rapidity of its growth or the
-vastness of its population, as, for example, that it has affected to so
-slight a degree the neighbouring country around it; still the
-contemporaries of its growth were more struck by its rapidity than by
-any other feature. It began as a fishing town of 2000 souls. At the
-close of the last century it already counted 5000, in the year 1850 it
-measured 40,000--all this before the railway. When the effect of the
-railway was at its height, before the common use of the bicycle or the
-motor car, the development of Brighton was the most characteristically
-modern impress which the nineteenth century had made upon the landscape
-and nature of the county. It retains this pre-eminence in our own
-generation, but in a degree which is very probably to be lessened.
-
-Somewhat later the other coast towns began to develop, and so long as
-the railway controlled that development, their growth was regular and
-almost according to a set law. Fashion or the doctors would recommend
-some point upon the coast. The long coastal railway from Brighton to
-Portsmouth afforded a station at the place, and the town increased in
-regular fashion, not with the station as the centre, but as the point
-from which branches spread out to the sea, so that these towns all more
-or less resemble a tree spreading from the railway station, and trippers
-hurrying from that station to the beach are like the deployment of a
-regiment
-
-[Sidenote: THE WATERING TOWNS]
-
-from column into line. These towns are, of course, stretched out along
-the beach; for their separate and successive organisation, the continual
-presence behind them of the coastal plain, with its railway parallel to
-the shore, has afforded admirable opportunities. That plain from
-Brighton to Bosham is perfectly flat; the crossing of the rivers has
-presented the only obstacle, and that obstacle was insignificant. The
-railway could run pretty well in a straight line and build up the towns
-along the sea.
-
-Even to-day the villages are linking up with the towns. Rustington is
-full of bricks. Rottingdean, for twenty years a sort of suburb, has now
-long been full of painters and others. A curious collection of bungalows
-has sprung up on the long pebbly beach which shuts out the Adur from the
-sea. Opposite these barracks lies Lancing; and even upon the extremity
-of old Selsea a new settlement, now nourished by a light railway from
-Chichester, is arising. At Seaford, which is saved a little by its
-hills, the same attempt at rapid building is made.
-
-There is one feature in this string of houses all along the coast of the
-county which Sussex men note with a pleasure not unmixed with malice. It
-is this, that while places of absolutely no commercial use and of no
-historical importance in the growth of the county are thus gradually
-being turned into appendages of London (so that all the way from Beachy
-Head to Chichester Harbour you have within the space of some fifty miles
-at least sixteen miles of houses), yet the places characteristically
-Sussex, the places upon the sea-line, which have gone to the building up
-of the county, and in which the population naturally gathered, continue
-to resist with extraordinary tenacity.
-
-You can do nothing with Newhaven except leave it a port. Littlehampton
-refuses to be the pleasure ground that its landlord desires it to be.
-Bosham is still the ancient harbour and village which its history
-demands that it should be. Shoreham will not consent to become a lesser
-Worthing or a second Brighton, and this is the more remarkable from the
-fact that these harbour towns and villages are geographically more in
-touch with London than those other towns whose special character it is
-to lie sheltered by the hills and far from the gaps by which a railway
-could approach them from the north.
-
-One may discover precisely the same state of affairs upon the eastern
-coast of the county
-
-[Sidenote: THE WATERING TOWNS]
-
-beyond Beachy Head. Here, for example, is the enormous development of
-Eastbourne, in a place which was useless for sailors, but sheltered from
-the winds by the neighbouring hill. Bexhill has increased along a beach
-which was not used until speculation had built the new town. Pevensey
-between them, upon its flat inland, is still deserted.
-
-To this list Hastings is a very considerable exception, because its
-beach and hill made it during the Middle Ages, and for very different
-reasons to-day, a necessary sea-town. But, with the exception of
-Hastings, every other town follows a general rule, that the new growth
-of watering-places along the south coast is extraneous.
-
-This long series of new towns grates upon men who have known and loved
-the county throughout their lives. There is little of Sussex about them;
-they have not the Sussex method of building nor any of the Sussex
-industries. Even their permanent population is largely drawn from other
-parts of England, and you do not hear the full warm accent of the south
-country often enough in their streets. The only consolation which the
-county can give itself as it watches this increasing line of new
-buildings is that, a mile or two behind them, their very presence seems
-to be forgotten.
-
-A closer observer has another consolation, which is that the new methods
-of communication are perhaps beginning to check the tendency which
-existed throughout the nineteenth century to over-populate the sea
-coast. If men, foreign to the place, are trying to spoil the Weald, at
-least they are applying a counter-irritant to their too great success in
-spoiling the coastal plain, and in the Weald they have a larger area
-over which to spread their limited faculties for evil.
-
-It is even possible that the power which the county has shown itself
-possessed of for so many centuries to digest and to absorb new-comers,
-will save it altogether from these latter invasions--possible, but
-doubtful. Then the descendants of those who now own Brighton, Worthing,
-and the rest, the children of the men who build villas on Crowboro’ top,
-and the heirs of the new-comers who have purchased, one would think, at
-least a third of the great old houses under the Downs, will be worthy of
-the soil which their ancestors certainly did not understand, and the
-historical development of Sussex will continue.
-
-It is more likely that that development has already come to an
-unfruitful end.
-
-[Illustration: FITTLEWORTH WATER MILL]
-
-
-
-
-PART III
-
-THE INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER OF SUSSEX AND THE WAY TO SEE THE COUNTY
-
-
-The efforts which many have made to describe a peculiar Sussex dialect
-and peculiar Sussex methods of architecture, have been somewhat too
-laborious. The example of other counties, notably of Devonshire, which
-did possess a strictly defined local dialect and set of customs, has
-tempted the patriotic historian of Sussex to find in that county
-something which is not there. There is, indeed, a South country way of
-speaking as all the world knows. It is to be found in the valley of
-Meon, and it is to be found in Kent, and it is to be found in the
-southern parts of Surrey. It occupies a large region, whose boundaries
-are very vague and ill defined; it lies, roughly speaking, between the
-North Downs and the sea, and is bounded westward by the New Forest. It
-is not peculiar to the county of Sussex.
-
-For example: A Sussex man will call a woodpecker a “yaffle,” which is a
-name taken from its peculiar call--it is for all the world like a mad
-laugh. Or again, he will talk of “steening a well,” that is, lining it
-with bricks. Or again, he will call a toad stool a “puck” stool. He will
-speak of a ploughshare as a “tourn vour,” that is, a “turn furrow”; and
-so forth. But these phrases are to be heard all up and down the district
-which I have mentioned. And the termination of place names, the peculiar
-epithet by which a steep wood is called a “hanger,” or a horseshoe
-depression in the Downs a “coombe,” though very Sussex, are not only
-Sussex.
-
-So it is with the South country architecture, notably with the building
-of those fine “headed” chimneys which are its distinguishing feature.
-You will find them all along the valley of the Medway and of the
-Derwent, or the Stour, as much as you will find them in the valleys of
-the Arun or the Adur.
-
-It is not in the establishment of a Sussex folklore, dialect, or
-architecture, that the peculiar and individual spirit of the county is
-best discovered. It is rather in the character of its inhabitants. And
-this again is fairly sharply divided between the eastern half of the
-county and the western.
-
-[Illustration: HIGH STREET, EAST GRINSTEAD]
-
-[Sidenote: EFFECT OF THE IRONSTONE]
-
-The East of Sussex, it seems fair to conjecture, has always been
-influenced by the presence of iron. The iron is no longer worked, but
-anywhere in the higher parts of the Eastern Weald one finds one’s self
-treading upon ironstone, and one sees the streams running red with the
-ore, and until so late as the Napoleonic Wars the exploitation of Sussex
-iron was continued. It is perhaps on account of this tradition and its
-effect upon the inhabitants that East Sussex has, as contrasted with
-West, a livelier, and (in the impression of the West) a less pleasing
-manner. Though it is farther from London in actual distance, it is
-nearer London in feeling. The proximity of Kent, with its great
-international highroad running through the heart of it, may have
-something to do with this. So also has the early clearing of the forest,
-and therefore the early establishment of free communication with the
-Thames valley. This feature we have already touched on in the
-development of Pevensey and Hastings Rapes. But whatever be the cause,
-the effect is apparent to those who know the county. One very curious
-result of it to-day is the difference in the modern settlement of East
-Sussex and of West. The new-comers with their villas and their great
-search for something old, that they may destroy it by their admiration,
-have different chances in the two parts of the county. In the West they
-can form, as it were, islands which stand alone in the midst of a highly
-resisting environment. They will build you a Haywards Heath which is
-like a London suburb, or a Ditchling or a Burgess Hill which is another
-such line of new houses, or those towns on the sea coast of which we
-have spoken, or the little group of red brick which defaces the
-landscape of West Horsham, or the lump which is beginning to destroy
-Barnham. But these encampments are tied close to the railway; they do
-not seem to spread their influence over the landscape or to change the
-character of the people in any way.
-
-In East Sussex you get, on the contrary, whole belts of country into
-which the spirit of the great towns has penetrated, perhaps for ever.
-Thus there is such a belt in the line of Rotherfield, Mayfield, and
-Heathfield. There is another stretch east and west from the height of
-Heathfield to the valley of the Rother, and notably in a village
-which we have already mentioned for its bad eminence in this
-respect--Burwash--which is just such a place as the Londoner or the
-Colonial calls “old world.” It is a village now only too conscious
-
-[Illustration: COTTAGES AT MAYFIELD]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX PEASANT]
-
-of such a character and ready to exploit it for all it is worth. You
-have another example of this blight upon the top of Crowborough, which
-might as well be Hazlemere or Hindhead for all the South country feeling
-that is left to it.
-
-The resistant quality of which we have just made mention, and which is
-especially discoverable in the western part of the county, is perhaps
-the most remarkable and, under modern circumstances, the most pleasing
-of the characteristics of the people. To those who have not been brought
-up in the county it becomes but slowly apparent. Those who know Sussex
-and its people take a somewhat cynical delight in observing that power
-at work. There is no peasant in the world so rooted in his customs and
-so determined to maintain them as is the Sussex peasant. He has been
-despoiled of his lands; he has been exploited by farmers from every
-other county, who come to use his rich belts of loam; he has been
-virtually bought or sold by families utterly out of the Sussex tradition
-(the Wyndhams, for example), or what is worse, Colonials and random rich
-men who make themselves great by the purchase of an ancient estate with
-whose traditional history they have not the remotest sympathy. He is,
-one would say, without defences against the modern world. But the
-modern world, as it is represented by the chance rich men who are now
-his masters, will very soon learn that the pressure of that proletariat
-is too much for them and not they for it. A Sussex man will not plant
-early. You may pay him to do so, and if you pay him enough he will do so
-once or twice; but before you have your garden many years, you will find
-he is planting again at his accustomed dates. He will not use silos. You
-may prove to him in a thousand ways that he would be the richer for
-using them. You may pay him as your servant such a wage that he may
-begin using them, but his abhorrence of a new method of that sort will
-express itself in the result, that you will lose a great deal of money
-by your experiment. He will hatch no eggs in an incubator, he will keep
-no bees in a new-fangled hive. He will give his pigs too much barley
-meal if he can get it, and will remark when he has done so that pigs do
-not really pay. He will bargain in his traditional fashion if you send
-him to market, and you will not by any payment or pressure cause him to
-express dissent in any other manner than by silence.
-
-It will be of interest to watch the near future and to see if his
-characteristics can be retained as
-
-[Sidenote: SUSSEX PRONUNCIATION]
-
-the county gets better and better known, and more thoroughly spoiled by
-the advent of what is called the leisured class. So far those who have
-been able to watch this peasant for the last thirty years have seen very
-little change indeed. And even the noble and rich south country accent,
-which education was to have destroyed, is as perfect in the little
-children of the last few years as in the mouths of the oldest men. And
-that peculiar emphasis upon the latter syllable--Amber_ley_,
-Billings_hurst_, and the rest--has not disappeared, at least in the
-western half of the county.
-
-A test may be applied by those who care to watch the progress of social
-disease and the resisting power of a social organism. Throughout the
-county the termination “ham” is kept separate, as though by a hyphen,
-from the first part of a place-name. For example: Bosham is pronounced
-Boz-ham or Boss-ham. To be accurate, the sound is a little between “s”
-and “z,” but the “ham” is kept quite distinct. Or again, the name of
-Felpham, near Bognor (where William Blake indulged his eccentricities),
-is pronounced Felp-ham. Now it is evident that in many cases where a “t”
-or an “s” or a “p” comes before “h,” any one not acquainted with this
-local method of pronouncing the words would run the two consonants
-together, and would pronounce Bosham “Bo_sh_-am,” or Felpham
-“Fel_f_-am.” Horsham has already broken down. Two generations ago
-everybody called the town Hors-ham. It became a considerable railway
-station. Many were led to read the name who had never heard of the
-little county town until the railway was built. Its own inhabitants did
-not defend the traditional pronunciation with sufficient vigour, and
-Hor_sh_-’m it has now fallen to be in spite of the most vigorous efforts
-of those who love their county to restore its original and significant
-name, and in spite of the fact that a horse even in Horsham is not yet a
-Horsh. If Bosham, Felpham, and the rest go in the same way, then one may
-take it that Sussex will not be Sussex any more. The test is small, but
-it is absolutely determining.
-
-After the characteristic Sussex manner there should be considered the
-characteristic Sussex landscape. This has been dealt with at some length
-in various parts of the book when we were speaking of the Downs, the
-Weald, and the coastal plain, and of particular towns. But we will here
-consider it by itself as a mark of the county.
-
-There are two elements in the landscape of Sussex, the first of which is
-more permanent than any
-
-[Sidenote: THE MAIN LANDSCAPE]
-
-other similar character, perhaps, in England; the second of which is
-more changeable than most. It is not easy to give a name to these
-separate elements, but with the one are connected the emotions aroused
-by the great views which Sussex presents, and with the other are
-connected the emotions aroused by its hollow and secluded places, those
-little isolated hills of sand and their small lonely valleys.
-
-The great spaces of landscape which Sussex can afford have never changed
-and never can. No man will ever build largely upon the Downs. No forest
-will ever gather on so valuable a soil as that of the coastal plain. No
-mere extension of buildings or further cultivation will destroy the
-distant aspect of the Weald.
-
-A man looking down from the crest of the Downs to the south and to the
-north of him sees much of what his ancestry have seen since men first
-stood upon those hills. The Weald was once a little denser in wood, the
-coastal plain a little less thick with villages, but that is all. The
-high, broad belt of the sea has always made a frame for that view. The
-flooded river valleys have always picked it out with patches of silver.
-The roll of the Downs has always stood, like a monstrous green wave,
-blown forward before the south-west wind. The simple and vivid green of
-the turf, and the sharp white chalk pits, have always stood making the
-same contrast with the sky and the large sailing clouds; and they will
-continue to do so for ever.
-
-A Sussex man recognises his home when he sees it from the height above
-Eden Bridge, or from Crowborough top as he enters the county from the
-north or from the Surrey hills; he knows it when, as he gazes
-southwards, he catches along the horizon the dark wall of the Downs. The
-outline is not to be confounded with any other in the world, and these
-few simple planes of vision build up for him the major pleasures which
-the landscape of his county can afford. They have not changed in the
-past and they will not change in the future.
-
-With the homelands, with the little valleys and the sandy rocks of the
-Weald, and the hills between the foot-hills of the southern side of the
-Downs, the case is different.
-
-What the original aspect of these hollows with their clayey or sandy
-knolls on either side may have been in the beginnings of the county it
-is now very difficult to conjecture. They are certainly among the very
-first of its inhabited places, and it is perhaps most accurate to think
-of them as little packed groups of huts along the
-
-[Illustration: CROWBOROUGH HEATH]
-
-[Sidenote: THE PINES]
-
-stream which almost invariably flows beneath the small steep hillside,
-these huts surrounded by the pasture of the small pastoral community,
-and on the upland above by long stretches of open furze and fern. It is
-probable that the wooding of the knolls came later, and it is remarkable
-that there is very little ancient plough land in the neighbourhood of
-most of these villages. Within the last few hundred years their general
-aspect has completely changed through the introduction of the pine.
-
-Along the whole belt of sand from Elsted right away to the valley of the
-Ouse you get bunches of this tree, making a peculiar note in the
-landscape; and the same is true of the forest ridge to the north.
-
-It is not easy to determine at what date this foreign timber first
-invaded the county. It is certainly not Roman, and almost certainly it
-was not to be discovered in Sussex during the sixteenth century. The
-Elizabethan cottage of the Weald has oak for its material, and this not
-only on account of the strength of such wood, but obviously because it
-was the cheapest and commonest kind of timber; for instance, the thin
-lathes or strips to which the smallest tiles are affixed are of oak in
-the old houses as much as are the tie beams and the main rafters. We
-should hardly find this if the pine had been present in Sussex during
-that great period of activity in domestic building; for the wood of the
-pine was far easier to split and to work where great strength was not
-required. It is thought by some that the tree came in, with all other
-Scotch things, in the time of James I. But it must be repeated, the
-point is undetermined. At any rate it has completely transformed the
-details of the landscape between the Surrey border and the Downs. There
-is, in the present day, no more peculiarly Sussex view than the sight of
-the bare line of the Downs caught in a framework of firs. For instance,
-such a fine sight as you get of them at Heyshott from the height that
-was once Cobden’s land, or the wonderful bit close by between Selham and
-Burton. It is from a hill isolated and covered with this kind of timber
-near Hardham that the best view of the Arun valley may be obtained, and
-so forth all along the line from which at various points one may regard
-the range of the Downs.
-
-A third and characteristic aspect of Sussex is, of course, that great
-stretch of the coastal plain to which so much allusion has been made
-that we need not emphasise it here: the sole impression of the county
-which those retain who have known it from a residence at Goring, at
-Lancing, at Findon, at
-
-[Illustration: RYE, FROM CAMBER]
-
-[Sidenote: MONOTONY OF THE COAST]
-
-Arundel, at Slindon, at Eartham, or indeed at any of the villages built
-upon the southern foot-hills of the Downs. It may be mentioned in
-connection with this part of the county, that of all maritime districts
-possessed of remarkable inland scenery Sussex is the least to be
-remembered by those who have seen it from the sea. The Downs slope up so
-gradually, the line of the coast is so flat, and the reek of the coastal
-towns, though slight, so continuous, that the general impression a man
-has who runs along even upon a clear day from Rye harbour, let us say,
-to the Looe Stream inside the Owers, thus covering the whole stretch of
-the county coast, is one of monotony. The Downs make no impression upon
-the view to landwards, save at one place where, for ten miles or so from
-Eastbourne to Newhaven, one runs along their seaward end and the high
-cliffs of Beachy Head, Birling Gap, and Seaford.
-
-For any one not fully acquainted with the county, and desirous of
-thoroughly learning its character, the best plan is to take one of the
-several routes which traverse it, and to make his journey slowly. The
-county is so diversified, its changes of scenery are so rapid, and the
-slight falls and rises of the Weald make each so considerable a
-difference to the view, that quick travelling will never teach a man the
-nature of Sussex. It is on this account that the millions who have gone
-and come by the railway between London and the sea coast have not
-retained so much as the knowledge that they have passed through the most
-distinctive county in England. The same is undoubtedly true of the motor
-car of to-day. What man travelling at fifteen to twenty miles an hour
-recognises the moment when he crosses the county boundary, or picks out,
-as he flashes by, the brickwork of a true Sussex gable?
-
-There are but two ways of learning Sussex: on horseback and on foot; and
-of these the first, for those who can afford it, is the best. As to the
-line to be followed, those who have the leisure should certainly
-traverse two--the one from north to south, the other from east to west.
-And for the benefit of those who may be inclined to try the experiment,
-there shall be detailed here the way in which such a journey may best be
-undertaken.
-
-It will be remembered that we have seen, with regard to the Weald, that
-its original clearings with their isolated farmhouses were united by
-random winding tracks--not true ways, such as
-
-[Illustration: HARTFIELD]
-
-[Sidenote: THE OLD FOREST TRACKS]
-
-the old deep-cut British road under the Downs, still less properly
-engineered or civilised roads, but mere forest paths rambling with but a
-general direction, and linking up one steading with another.
-
-Now it is a remarkable fact that the lines of these original tracks are
-in great part preserved; in places they have been destroyed by the
-plough, in others they have merged into the great highways of the
-county, but much of them still remains in the form of secluded and
-tortuous lanes which are sometimes partly metalled, sometimes flagged on
-a packhorse path with Sussex marble, and sometimes left green. If a
-traveller will take one of these where it enters the county and pursue
-it to the Downs, he will get as true a conception of the way in which
-the Weald has grown up, of its primeval woodland, and of the nature of
-its clearings as it is possible to obtain. He will discover that to this
-day very much of the curious loneliness of the Weald survives within a
-mile or two of its most populous towns, and the impression of his two
-days’ march (or one day if he is a great walker--the distance will
-commonly be under twenty-five miles) will teach him more of the county
-than any amount of bicycling along its main roads.
-
-Perhaps the best example remaining of such an old track is that which
-runs right for the Downs from the Surrey border where the road comes
-from Dorking to Warnham. Its place-names here and there sufficiently
-indicate the historic importance of the way. Thus its entry into the
-county is the “shire mark”; its first farm “King’s Fold”--fold is a
-characteristic ending of a Wealden name. Often before there were regular
-farmhouses in a place there was a pen or boundary within which forest
-cattle could be kept. Thus, Chiddingfold, Slinfold, Flitchfold,
-Dunsfold, etc., in the forest on either side of the border.
-
-Next on the road, an hour within the county, is Warnham, and in the
-neighbouring hamlet of “Friday _Street_,” a termination which is
-characteristic of village names along some ancient way; immediately
-afterwards the road skirts Field Place, where Shelley the poet was born,
-and becomes (a further characteristic of old tracks) a boundary--at
-present a parliamentary boundary. It crosses the Arun at New Bridge or
-Broad Bridge, and thence for many miles runs south, neglected and
-silent, crossing the main ridge of the Weald and coming down upon the
-“Greens,” Barn’s Green, where it throws off a little branch to the left,
-which passes through Brook’s Green, Dragon’s Green, becomes
-
-[Sidenote: AN OLD FOREST TRACK]
-
-King’s Lane at Shipley, and thence goes on in a deserted green road
-towards Chanctonbury.
-
-Meanwhile from Barn’s Green the original track continues south and
-somewhat west, becomes again a parliamentary boundary in the
-neighbourhood of Coneyhurst Common, turns there once more into a
-highroad, crosses the marshy upwaters of the Adur by a bridge which
-recalls its twin to the north (Broad Ford Bridge), and makes straight
-for the village of West Chiltington, one of those characteristic
-villages which depend for their site upon the sandhills which rise so
-suddenly from the clay beneath the Downs.
-
-After this village it suddenly ceases to be a road, but continues in the
-same line as a right of way to Roundabout (delightful name!), and thence
-onward as a lane again to Storrington, which settlement was probably the
-original goal of this very ancient forest road.
-
-If any one will take such a walk in good weather he will thoroughly
-understand what the history of the central part of Sussex has been.
-Every name he finds and every building will enlighten him.
-
-For an east and west line of travel two may be chosen, and both should
-be undertaken if this highly differentiated countryside is to be fully
-appreciated. The first needs but little description, it is a highroad
-all the way, and holds the whole line of market towns spread out upon it
-like beads upon a string; but it is characteristic of the Weald that
-even this is not a road single in its intention, but is composed of
-various old paths which have been patched together.
-
-In taking this walk you will go from Petersfield to Midhurst, where are
-two inns, The Angel and The Eagle; then from Midhurst through Cowdray
-Park you follow the Petworth road, and at Petworth is an inn called The
-Swan, remarkable for excellent mild ale. Then from Petworth you will go
-through Fittleworth and Stopham, over Stopham Bridge to Pulborough; and
-at this point the old marshes of the Arun, the line of heights from
-Broomer’s Hill to Thakeham, and the marshes of the Adur beyond these
-cause the road to double. Cowfold is your object, some ten miles away in
-a straight line. You must either strike up through Billingshurst five
-miles north, and then take the straight road from Billingshurst to
-Cowfold, or else you must strike south to Storrington, and then take the
-road through Washington, which branches to the left just after Wiston,
-and so reaches Cowfold through Ashurst and Partridge Green. After
-Cowfold
-
-[Illustration: PULBOROUGH MARSH]
-
-[Sidenote: WAY ALONG THE DOWNS]
-
-it is a connected road again as it was up to Pulborough. You go eastward
-through Cuckfield, through Hayward’s Heath, past the railway which you
-cross close to Newick Station, straight on to Maresfield, down south to
-Uckfield, then on by the main road to Heathfield. A mile eastward of the
-railway there the road branches; but your better plan is to follow the
-old line up which came the army of Jack Cade--that is, to skirt
-Heathfield Park, to pass through Chapel Cross, go over Brightling Hill
-which has wonderful command of the whole district, and so come down upon
-the Rother at Robertsbridge. There you will find an inn called the
-George, of considerable moment. East of this you are no longer in the
-spirit of Sussex, but in that of Kent, and a very few minutes farther on
-you are over the legal boundary between the two counties.
-
-The second line is, of course, that of the Downs. It has the
-disadvantage of ending abruptly at the sea, and does not show you the
-whole length of the county as does the line through the Weald. But it
-has the advantage that no other walk or ride anywhere is of the same
-kind: fifty miles of turf, broken only by four short gaps in the river
-valleys, lie before you between Harting Hill and Beachy Head. The
-itinerary of such a ride is as follows:--
-
-You will leave Petersfield by the eastern road, and turn by that lane on
-the right which makes for the Downs, reaching their summit upon Harting
-Hill. There is no proper track, but it is open going round the northern
-edge of Beacon Hill and so onwards, always keeping to the escarpment,
-and passing to the southern side of the summit of Linch Down. This
-latter course has the advantage that it avoids going round deep combe or
-crypt, and, moreover, on the southern side of the summit you strike that
-ridgeway which will accompany you for many miles, and which here leads
-you between the two woods in the open. About a mile to the east of the
-summit of Linch Down you have to cross the somewhat low and steep pass
-where the Midhurst and Chichester road crosses the hills. Your ridgeway
-takes you straight across it over the top of Cocking Tunnel, and on up
-again to the Down on the eastern side of the gap. There it is a clear
-ride right away until you come above Lavington. At this point it is well
-to strike to the right or south-west, making for a little chapel which
-you will see below you in a sort of interior valley of the Downs. Here
-you will find a highroad
-
-[Sidenote: WAY ALONG THE DOWNS]
-
-which is the highroad to Petworth; and if you continue it to a group of
-cottages known as The Kennels, you may leave it again due eastward over
-some ploughed land until you find in less than half a mile the
-escarpment of the hills again.
-
-The object of this somewhat complicated direction is to avoid the sharp
-angle of the Downs at Duncton Hill, but if any one thinks the short cut
-too difficult, he has but to follow round the escarpment, and he will
-come by a rather longer route to the same point, which is that steep
-combe above Sutton and Cold Harbour which those who live to the south of
-it call, from the nearest farm, “Gumber Corner,” but which is also known
-as Cold Harbour Hill. It is well to pause here and make it, as it were,
-a centre of observation, for it is a spot from which the general
-character of the county, the divisions into which it naturally falls,
-and the special features which make up its landscape, may all be seized
-in one view.
-
-There is, perhaps, no other place in England where the landscape is so
-full of history, and at the same time so diverse and so characteristic
-of its own country-side.
-
-To the south of you, some 600 feet below, is the whole stretch of the
-sea-plain, and beyond it, up to the horizon, which is lifted right into
-the sky, is the belt of the sea. On this, if it be near evening, you see
-the regular flashing of the Owers Light, which marks that group of rocks
-where once was a Roman town, and you note how the sea is eating up all
-that shore. Stretching out towards the light in a sharp point is the
-promontory of Selsea Bill--all that is left of the submerged land. Here
-was founded the first bishopric of Sussex. And as your mind dwells upon
-that foundation you catch, a little to the west and to the right, the
-great spire of Chichester Cathedral standing up eight miles away under
-the sunset--Chichester, to which was removed, and which is now the
-successor of, St. Wilfrid’s original See.
-
-The boundary here between the Sussex sea-plain and Hampshire is clearly
-marked, for the level light sends a gleam along the creeks of the upper
-harbours beyond Bosham, which undoubtedly were the first principal
-divisions along this coast between the South Saxons and their neighbours
-to the west.
-
-As you look along that horizon eastward, you continue to see a chain of
-Sussex things. You see the port of Littlehampton, one of the Sussex
-river mouths; farther off, on the extreme limit of your view, you see
-the lights of Worthing,
-
-[Illustration: KING RICHARD’S WALK, CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL]
-
-[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]
-
-characteristic of the new great watering-towns which have grown up all
-along this coast. You have in one landscape all that maritime fringe of
-Sussex which is held in such detestation by the men of the Weald, and
-which is yet the side from which civilisation or change has always come
-into the county: the sea-plain upon which the Saxon pirates landed; the
-plain upon which the siege of the Roman town of Anderida took place. It
-was from this sea that Christianity came, and it was on the same flat,
-though in the eastern part of it, that William of Falaise landed with
-his army on the way to conquer at Hastings.
-
-Between the high place from which you are thus looking southward and
-surveying the land toward the sea--between the main range of the Downs,
-that is, and the dead flat of the rich plough-land--you see, in one low
-summit after the other, those foot-hills of the Downs which are an
-essential part of the Sussex landscape, and which are so full of Sussex
-history. Here stand in a row, partly isolated from each other,
-Halnecker, with its gaunt deserted mill; Eartham, where Cowper for some
-little time wrote, and where perhaps the best portrait of him was
-painted. Next is the great wooded mass of the Nore Hill, now
-uninhabited and silent, but once a stronghold; the neighbouring summit
-of Slindon, which was Canterbury land, one of the great houses of the
-Archbishop; the promontory of the Rewell Wood, which hides Arundel; and
-farther off eastward that semi-conical lift of Cissbury, which the men
-of the place call High Down. Here first the Briton, then the Roman, then
-the Saxon held their trenches, and here has been found that most
-fascinating and absorbing relic of prehistory--a manufactory of flint
-implements, finished and half-finished, with the cores and the chips
-lying beside the completed work.
-
-This is what you see to the southward. Directly to the east and the west
-of you is the wall of the Downs, on the crest of which you stand.
-Nowhere else on the crest of that wall will you see them look so long or
-so sheer. You see them fall mile after mile on to the plain, some
-jutting slightly forward, as does Ditchling Beacon, upon the limit of
-one’s gaze, and the whole forming one strict escarpment, the like of
-which is not to be discovered to our knowledge elsewhere in the world.
-From this point you perceive and are filled with the utter loneliness of
-these hills; there is not a house on them nor a man, and they are the
-more
-
-[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]
-
-lonely that you have so immediately, and yet so far, below you the
-little farmhouses in their combes.
-
-These combes, their names and their great hollows, recall to you the
-enormous antiquity upon which Sussex reposes. Their name is a Celtic
-name. It has outlasted the three great foreign invasions of the
-land--the Roman civilisers, the German pirate, and the re-entry of the
-Latins with the Norman Conquest. Their woods also have outlasted every
-destroyer, every cultivator, and engineer. No one can plough these steep
-hollows--the beeches have clung to them from the beginning and will
-cling to them always. Immediately beneath you is one such horseshoe,
-bitten into the mass of the Down; and if you stand still you can hear
-moving in it the life of beasts which men have never seriously
-disturbed. Small as these woods are, they are as primal and as isolated
-as anything you will find in any distant valley. They are not cut for
-profit, or at least very rarely, because the ground is too steep for
-haulage. They live their own life and are secluded.
-
-Indeed, all over the broad back of the Downs, for seventy miles and
-more, these patches of woods, both in the combes and up on the shoulders
-of the hills, are a necessary part of Sussex. They exhibit the
-unconquerable nature of the county, its strongholds of silence and of
-desertion within an hour or two of London, and within a short walk of
-those flaring new places which have sprung up upon the sea-shore. The
-past and the very meaning of the county can still be remembered in the
-names of those woods. Here are certain of the “forests” remaining. Right
-at your feet is Houghton Forest, the remnant of a great royal wood lost
-to the Crown perhaps in the civil wars.
-
-This view along the Downs tells you many other things about the county:
-you have, for instance, close beside you, not three miles away, perhaps
-the earliest and until latterly one of the most used of the “Passes”
-over the Downs--the cross-roads at Whiteways. The London road and the
-road which had followed along under the Downs from Lewes unite at the
-summit of the Saddle, and lead travellers from the capital or from the
-Weald to Arundel or to the sea-plain. It is an example of those passages
-over the hills which have been mentioned as running from Cocking near
-Midhurst right away to Lewes, and which have their best roads at
-Duncton, here at Whiteways, at Washington, and beyond New Timber at
-Clayton.
-
-[Illustration: OLD WHITING MILL, MIDHURST]
-
-[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]
-
-Those river valleys which we have seen to be so peculiar to the
-modelling of the South country--trenches cut right through the chalk and
-appearing to ignore the natural watershed which the hills would
-form--come also into this landscape. The greatest of them is right
-before you in the Arun valley. If it is winter you will see in the
-sheets of water surrounding the river why these valleys were not used
-for communication, and why to this day, though the railway has built
-itself an embankment across the marshes, no road runs through along the
-level floor, which would seem at first sight the obvious gate through
-the Downs from the Weald to the sea.
-
-You can also see from this point of vantage one of those castles which
-guard the gates of the county, for you can see to the north of the gap
-the ruins of Amberley. In a word, you have the whole nature of the Downs
-and of the sea-plain before you as you look from Gumber.
-
-But you have also much more. Turn to the northward, and there lies
-before you the whole stretch of the Weald: its towns, its little sandy
-pine-clad heights, its irregular plan, the large remains of its old
-woods and heaths. Far beyond it you may see, like another wall answering
-the southern wall of the Downs, the line of the Surrey hills; and all
-Sussex which is not maritime lies between you and them in one sweep.
-
-You have to the north-westward the great bunch of Hindhead, where the
-three counties of Hampshire, Sussex, and Surrey meet; you have to the
-eastward an interminable succession of low heights, one behind the
-other, which stretch out to the Kentish border and make up the Sussex
-Weald. You may see, at the farthest point which the eye can reach, the
-lonely fir-trees upon Ashdown, which stands so high as to hide the
-Kentish “hursts” behind it.
-
-One of those small towns of the Weald which are most characteristic of
-Sussex is beneath you, the little town of Petworth, with its great house
-insolently overshadowing it and swallowing it up. There is also beneath
-you something more Sussex and more dignified than the blatant grandeur
-of such a palace--the squires’ houses all the way along from Burton to
-Parham. You are too far to see how well they illustrate the
-county,--Parham especially, which is built of chalk, and is altogether a
-sort of natural growth of Sussex,--but you may easily grasp in their
-continuous line what sort of house it was round which the old manors
-clung.
-
-[Illustration: MILL POOL, MIDHURST]
-
-[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]
-
-From Gumber also you judge how far it may be true that the Weald was
-ever uninhabited. You see indeed great patches of woodland, and many
-more patches of what may have been recent, but what are most likely
-ancient, clearings. You see belts of heath on which nothing has ever
-grown or will grow, and you see everywhere villages which are certainly
-of great age, because they lie along the main lines of communication.
-
-Speaking of these, it is worthy of notice that you have next to you, as
-you stand here on Gumber, that most distinct and the best-preserved
-Roman road in England. The Stane Street crosses this saddle of the
-range; it is raised several feet above the surface of the hills. It is
-like a rampart, and comes straight from the spire of Chichester on the
-south-western horizon. Here are visible all the points of the Stane
-Street which have been detailed upon a former page, the way in which it
-negotiates the escarpment of the Downs in a great curve, and the way in
-which, when once it has struck the plain, it darts right for the
-crossing of the Arun at Pulborough. Hence also may be caught that gap in
-the Surrey hills at Dorking for which the road makes northward, and
-beyond which it is lost in the turf at Epsom.
-
-As you trace that taut line across the Weald you may note every period
-of the Sussex past. You see it crossing at Bignor the winding elbowed
-British lane which has sunk so deep through centuries of traffic below
-the surrounding fields, you see the famous ruins of the Roman villa, and
-the ruin of the Priory of Hardham, which stood upon its highway.
-
-The watershed which divides the Sussex from the Surrey rivers stands up
-in the midst of the Weald before you plainly enough, though it is lower
-than the ridge of the Downs to the north or the south. There is to be
-distinguished very clearly to the north-east that part of it called St.
-Leonard’s Forest from which flows the Arun to the south and the Mole to
-the north: the Sussex river of Arundel, and the Surrey river of Dorking.
-
-All those things, then, which are especial to the county, and which we
-have remarked elsewhere to be the distinguishing marks of Sussex, stand
-out in this view from Gumber: the historic sites, the forests, the
-escarpment of the Downs, their foot-hills; the encroachments of the sea;
-the ancient and the modern parts which the sea-line plays in Sussex
-history; the small old ports which have so much, and the great modern
-pleasure towns which
-
-[Sidenote: WESTBURTON HILL]
-
-have so little, to do with the life of Sussex men; the river crossing
-the chalk hills; the oaks, the pines, and the heaths of the Weald; the
-Roman foundations of our state; the great Roman road and the Roman
-villa; the squires’ houses, its successors; the little towns; the
-marshes of the gaps through the hills; the roads over the passes,--all
-these are combined in such a view, and if a man has but very little time
-in which to comprehend the nature of Sussex he cannot do better than to
-leave the Chichester road for awhile, either at the top of Duncton hill,
-or half a mile farther at The Kennels, and walk up to Gumber corner to
-see the sight which has been here described.
-
-Next after the Saddle, from which is seen this great view, the traveller
-will go on eastward along the ridge, down the somewhat steep side of
-Bignor Hill, and he will find on the other side of the cleft, which here
-separates Bignor from Westburton Hill, the first of those dew pans of
-which we spoke in our first description of the county. From just beside
-it there is a straight green track leading just south of the crest of
-the hills, and just north of the line of Houghton Forest, and falling at
-last into the highroad from London to Arundel, just before the
-cross-road of Whiteways, where is the lodge of Arundel Park. Here he
-has the choice of two routes: he may go through Arundel Park down on to
-the town of Arundel some two or three miles away, or he may go straight
-down Houghton Hill and so across the bridge at Amberley. It is this
-latter course which he had better take if his object is an exploration
-of the Downs.
-
-Going down Houghton Hill he will note the old road running steeply down
-the side of the Downs and the new one curving more gently to the south.
-They reunite at the entrance of Houghton village, just where the old
-inn, the George and Dragon, stands. A hundred yards farther there comes
-in that ancient track which links up all the prehistoric village sites
-under the Downs, and for which there is no name.
-
-It is interesting, as one leaves Houghton village, to notice how the
-road (which is now identical with the old British track) approaches the
-marshy land of the river, following the spur of dry land which pushes
-out into the marshes, and making for the nearest similar spur on the
-farther side of the stream. All old British ways approach a river in
-this fashion, as, for instance, the track to which we owe London Bridge,
-the crossing of the Medway near Lower Halling, of the Mole just north
-of
-
-[Sidenote: RACKHAM HILL]
-
-Dorking, and of the Darent at Oxford. The last few yards of the road
-where the marshy land begins are carried on the modern causeway; the
-Arun itself is crossed by a fine bridge, on the farther side of which is
-an inn which makes a very good stopping-place, whether a man has ridden
-or has walked, for, by the time he reaches this inn, he will have gone
-between fifteen and twenty miles. Moreover, it is always wise, when one
-is exploring the Downs, to rest in the river valleys which cut them
-rather than to come down off their main summits on to the plain, for to
-do this last is to waste much effort in the climb of next morning.
-
-Half a mile after leaving Houghton Bridge inn the traveller will find a
-lane leading straight up to the top of the Downs, a summit here called
-Rackham Hill; and thenceforward he has before him a ridgeway of five
-miles of unbroken turf of the finest sort in England, midway along which
-he should note upon the steep escarpment beneath him (along the northern
-side of what is called Kithurst Hill) the great embankment which may
-perhaps be defensive earthworks, or may perhaps be some religious emblem
-of the prehistoric ancestors of the county.
-
-At the end of the five miles he comes down upon what is known as
-Washington Gap, where the Worthing road crosses the hills, and as he
-does so he leaves upon his right Highden, the original home of the
-Gorings, and the centre from which has spread the influence of that
-Sussex family. The gap is low, but a little over 300 feet, and when he
-has crossed it he must go up nearly 500 more to the height of
-Chanctonbury Ring, which is the knot or pivot, as it were, upon which
-the whole system of the range turns. Though it is not exactly central
-between the Hampshire borders and the sea end of the Downs, being a good
-deal to the west of such a centre, it is a place of observation from
-which the range may be discovered stretching to the left and right
-through the whole of its extent. Ditchling Beacon to the east and
-Duncton Down to the west are twenty or thirty feet higher, but neither
-is so conspicuous as the Ring. Here also, immediately to the east and
-just below the clump of trees, is the largest dew pan on the Downs.
-
-It is possible to go down from Chanctonbury straight to Steyning, but,
-if one desires to see all one can of the hills, it is better to keep
-upon them until one sees below one a spur pointing towards Bramber;
-there is a lane down this spur, and at
-
-[Sidenote: THE DEVIL’S DYKE]
-
-Bramber another excellent inn called the Castle Inn. Here the second
-river valley of the Downs is crossed: the valley of the Adur. From the
-Arun to the Adur is a very short day, yet it is good policy to rest
-here, as there is no other break in the hills between this valley and
-that of the Ouse at Lewes, which is almost as long a journey as that of
-the first day.
-
-After Bramber the line of the range becomes somewhat confused, and does
-not follow that strict and unbending direction which has hitherto marked
-it. There is a projection northward in Wolstonbury Hill, and fairly deep
-depressions between the principal heights. The course to be followed is
-further complicated by the near presence of Brighton, which has thrown
-out a railway almost up to the top of the range, and has brought the
-influences of a town to the deep combe known as Devil’s Dyke.
-
-This unfortunate spot cannot be avoided save on foot, for, on horseback,
-the escarpment to the north is too steep to be followed; it is therefore
-best to take it boldly, unpleasant as it is, to go well south of the
-Dyke and make for the hamlet of Saddlescombe, the first passage of the
-Downs after Bramber. Thence the traveller will go due north-east over
-the shoulder of New Timber Hill, in the valley beyond he will cross the
-two Brighton roads (that from Crawley and that from Cuckfield) just
-before they join, he will leave Wolstonbury Hill wholly on his left and
-will make for the summits of the Downs before him, going due eastward
-from the highroad when he has crossed it.
-
-When he has once reached these summits beyond the road he has another
-straight run of seven miles of splendid turf and of glorious views along
-a lonely and unwooded ridge, past Ditchling Beacon, and catching beneath
-him as he goes, at the foot of the hills, the last miles of the old
-British track which here links up Westmeston, Plumpton, and Offham.
-
-When he comes at last to the fall of the hills down upon the Ouse
-valley, he will see before him the town of Lewes and its castle, and as
-he goes down towards it he will note the race-course upon his right,
-which stands upon the site of the great battle of 1264, wherein the
-Barons defeated the King and laid the foundations of Parliament. Lewes,
-when he reaches it, should form his third resting-place, lying as it
-does upon the third of the rivers which cut the Downs.
-
-Upon the fourth day the way lies along the main Eastbourne road for the
-first two or three
-
-[Illustration: BEACHY HEAD]
-
-[Sidenote: BEACHY HEAD]
-
-miles, until Beddingham is reached. There one turns to the right just by
-the church, and after half a mile of going one finds a lane leading
-straight up on to the Downs; a ridgeway takes one along the crest (the
-height of which is here called Firle Beacon), and in about five miles
-one comes down upon the valley of the Cuckmere and the very old village
-of Alfriston.
-
-For the last few miles of the journey there is a choice of ways: one may
-turn to the right after Alfriston bridge and, going past Lullington
-Court, take a lane which leads one straight to the village of Jevington,
-thus cutting off the projecting corner and height of Winddower Hill, or
-one may turn to the left after the bridge and go round over the top of
-the ridge, and so down on to Jevington from the north. From Jevington a
-short lane leads straight up on to the height of Willingdon Hill, and
-thence it is a straight southerly line along the escarpment with a few
-slight rises and falls until, just four miles on, one stands above the
-precipice of Beachy Head where the Downs fall into the sea, and one’s
-journey is ended. These four days, if they are spent in weather of
-passible clearness, teach one the whole of that lonely and wonderful
-belt of England, the landscape and character of which have built up the
-county on either side to the north and south of hills.
-
-It would, of course, be possible to devise many another journey by which
-those who do not know the county might better appreciate somewhat of its
-aspects. But these three of which we have spoken are the best in general
-for an exploration of Sussex, unless one pleases to add a fourth of a
-somewhat monotonous and truncated character, which would be to cover in
-one day the coastal plain from Chichester to Brighton, and in another
-the sea coast and the marshes from Eastbourne to Rye. The second section
-of this is straightforward enough, taking one through Pevensey,
-Hastings, and Winchelsea. As to the first, it is advisable not to follow
-the main road through Arundel, but to go by lanes nearer the sea from
-Chichester to Eastergate, thence to Yapton, and so on through
-Littlehampton, West Ferring, Worthing, and along the sea coast to New
-Shoreham. It is possible also to take either section right along its
-beach. There is no interruption, but it would be a dreary and a
-heart-breaking thing to do, and would leave upon a man a general
-impression of red brick and boarding-houses, and esplanades and tin
-bungalows, interrupted by intervals of tufted grass growing
-
-[Illustration: WILLINGDON]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX SEA]
-
-rank upon deserted sand-hills. Nay, even these are not all deserted, for
-in places Londoners can be seen upon them playing golf.
-
-It is best to wander inland, to pass every night at some one of the
-small market towns, and, when one has returned from the county, to be
-able to remember the many unbroken woods, the isolated clearings, the
-primeval tracks, now metalled and now green, the little patches of
-swamp, the clay pools and the short oaks of the Weald, the abrupt
-sandstone ledges crowded with pine, the bare Downs beyond seen between
-such trees, and the large levels of the four rivers which, between them,
-make up the county, and explain the history of its soil and of its
-families, and the peculiar tenacity with which it maintains under all
-modern vicissitudes its unique and enduring character.
-
-It may not be without utility to close these pages with a few remarks
-upon the last way in which the county can be explored in the course of a
-holiday. We will consider the approach from the sea and learn something
-of the way in which a small boat should regard the harbours of this
-coast; of how the rivers are to be ascended, and of the particular
-difficulties at the mouth of each.
-
-Those of our readers who have the opportunity to explore the county in
-this way from the coast and the Channel may not be numerous, but they
-can at least boast that their method of travel can give them the best
-appreciation of its history, for Sussex grew up from the harbours.
-
-We have already remarked that the Sussex harbours come at fairly regular
-intervals, especially those between Beachy Head and the Isle of Wight,
-but they are not by any means equally easy of access, even for a small
-boat drawing, let us say, six feet of water; and the most difficult of
-all five is Rye, at the mouth of the Rother.
-
-It is an almost universal rule that old harbours from which the sea has
-retreated, but to which the waterway still exists, are difficult of
-access, and Rye is no exception to this rule. There extends for more
-than a mile from the shore a mass of peaty mud through which the sea-bed
-of the river winds in a most tortuous fashion; at half-tide it is almost
-impossible to follow it if one has had no local experience. The matter
-is made worse from the fact that the channel is very poorly marked; its
-first entrance from the sea is impossible to discover in thick weather
-and not too easy upon a clear day. All this is a pity, for if Rye were
-still as accessible
-
-[Illustration: BOAT-BUILDING AT RYE]
-
-[Sidenote: HASTINGS BAY]
-
-as is say Arundel, or even Bosham, it would form the most charming of
-all entries into the county, with its pyramid of old red roofs and its
-deep and visible history.
-
-From Rye all the way across the bay to Beachy Head there is no haven,
-nor for the matter of that any difficulty for a small craft, save that
-the shore is very flat between Hastings and Eastbourne, and that, as
-one’s course takes one well out, it is not easy to fix landmarks. In
-good weather, of course, Beachy Head is a most prominent object all the
-way, and the light below it a perfect mark at night, but a very little
-haze is enough to make a yachtsman who is following alongshore get a
-mile or two in or out, especially as a strong tideway runs in between
-Pevensey Bay and the Royal Sovereign shoals. Rounding Beachy Head itself
-is easy enough work except when a strong northerly wind is blowing. On
-these occasions the Head, which is very abrupt, and the cliffs to the
-west of it, have a way of spilling sharp gusts unexpectedly down on to
-the water beneath. The present writer has seen a five-tonner under three
-reefs and a storm jib all but swamped within half a mile of the shore by
-one of these puffs, which are especially dangerous from the fact that
-there is no telling quite in what direction they will come. A full
-north-easterly wind on the starboard quarter as one rounds the head can
-give one a set-back in the shape of an unexpected gust coming round from
-right ahead out of Birling Gap. The only rule when the wind is blowing
-strong off-shore is to keep well out--irritating as it is to have to do
-so when one is making Newhaven, since every tack towards the outside
-means another mile to be beaten inwards against the weather.
-
-Some years ago it would have been necessary to warn the reader of a
-small reef which runs out from Beachy Head and is especially dangerous
-at high water, but a new lighthouse is now fixed upon this reef and the
-old danger no longer exists.
-
-Newhaven Harbour, as we have seen upon a previous page, is the most
-serious commercial harbour upon the coast. It is the only one before
-which there is not some considerable bar, and it goes without saying
-that small boats, such as we are supposing, can enter freely at any
-state of the tide; but it is by no means the easiest of the Sussex
-rivers for a small boat to _lie_ in. It has a heavy traffic both of
-trade and passengers, conveyed in large steamers along a rather narrow
-river, and until a dock for large craft has been constructed it
-
-[Illustration: OLD SHOREHAM BRIDGE]
-
-[Sidenote: SHOREHAM HARBOUR]
-
-will always be a rather anxious place to get in and out of, especially
-as there is a very strong tide in the Ouse. A dozen miles or so farther
-westward along the coast is the modern entrance of Shoreham Harbour.
-This harbour has a rather awkward bar, and it is not infrequently
-necessary to wait for the tide; moreover the tideway runs like a stream
-right athwart the mouth, and therefore tends to make one run dangerously
-near the pier-heads if the wind is light, but, once this bar is crossed
-and the piers past, Shoreham still affords very good moorings for a
-small boat, and it also is well situated for proceeding in any direction
-inland; but one must be careful to take the right-hand or eastern branch
-of the harbour, and not to go up the river on the left-hand side, as the
-former is deep, secure, and well-wharfed, while the latter has steep,
-shingly banks, and soon becomes extremely shallow.
-
-At much the same distance from Shoreham that Shoreham is from Newhaven
-will be found the harbour of Littlehampton, which is in some ways the
-best of all as a centre or goal for small craft. Its great drawback is
-its bar, which is the worst in the whole county, worse even than that of
-the Rother. In spite of continual dredging this bar is perpetually
-appearing above the surface at low spring tides, and it is hopeless to
-attempt to enter at any draught of water before half-tide. The bar is,
-however, quite close to the end of the pier; there is good holding
-ground for anchor, and signals of showing from the pier-head
-signal-staff clearly indicate the depth over the bar at any moment. The
-heavy gales from the south-west, which are the only dangerous ones on
-those parts of the coast (with the exception of some very rare
-south-easterly gales), are broken for Littlehampton by the Owers Bank,
-and to some extent by the group of rocks which run eastward from them,
-and there are very few days when it is not safe to anchor outside and
-wait for the tide.
-
-Once inside, the Arun will be found the most practicable and the most
-delightful of Sussex rivers for the sailor. There is depth for seagoing
-vessels all the way up to Arundel, the approach to which is perhaps the
-most striking approach to a port to be found in England. Half-way on
-this journey is a rolling railway bridge, but there is no other
-obstruction and plenty of water all the way. At Arundel is the first
-permanent bridge, but a small boat, or a boat with a lowering mast, can
-go on much farther up the river. The tide will carry one, when there
-is
-
-[Illustration: THE ARUN, NEAR PULBOROUGH]
-
-[Sidenote: THE ARUN]
-
-no backwater or flood, as high as Pulborough in the heart of the county.
-
-Formerly all the Sussex rivers gave this opportunity for entering from
-the sea into the centre of the countryside, to which was doubtless due
-the only too thorough results of the pirate raids in the early part of
-our history. Thus a Danish ship has been found right up the Rother on
-the Kentish border near Northiam, at a place where the river is now no
-more than a brook. Similarly it was easy to sail up the Ouse far beyond
-Lewes. As we have previously remarked, the Adur was a navigable river
-till recent times almost as far as Shipley. At present the Arun alone of
-these waterways remains. It owes its preservation to the fact that the
-care of man has never been allowed to lapse upon its banks. Its high
-dykes (still called by the Norman-French name of “rives”) have always
-been carefully maintained, and where the old river was silting up (as
-for instance in the great bend by Burpham) new cuts have preserved the
-scouring of the channel. We must, however, regret that in this direction
-the canal system by which the Arun was linked up with the rest of
-England has been deliberately allowed to go to pieces. There used to be
-a waterway from Ford to Chichester, which made the most delightful of
-inland excursions, and of which Turner has painted a famous picture. It
-is now nothing but a dry ditch. Higher up near Hardham another waterway
-led across the great bend of the river to Stopham and continued, as a
-canal parallel to the stream, across the Weald until the upper waters of
-the Wey were reached, and through them the Thames valley. It was
-therefore quite easy until the destruction of the canal to go by water
-from the Sussex coast to Weybridge. It is typical of our modern politics
-that a national advantage of this sort should have been thrown away by
-Parliament in its subservience to the railway interest, and it is to be
-hoped that that advantage will soon be regained. The trench is still
-there and the emplacement of the old locks, and the sum required to put
-the canal into use again would certainly be recovered in a few years of
-pleasure traffic alone.
-
-The last of the harbours we have to consider is that ramification of
-creeks on the extreme west of the county known collectively as
-“Chichester Harbour.” Here also there is a very bad bar and a
-complicated entrance. From Littlehampton a small boat should make for
-the point of Selsea Bill and so creep through Looe stream. But she
-
-[Illustration: BOSHAM]
-
-[Sidenote: CHICHESTER HARBOUR]
-
-must take care to do this on an ebb-tide, for it is impossible to get
-through against the flood.
-
-Even for quite small vessels the entry of Chichester Harbour is
-navigable only at high tide, but the exploration of it is delightful,
-whether one runs up Fishbourne Creek (which lands one near to
-Chichester) or, leaving this on the right, one goes straight on to the
-wharf of Bosham. There is, unfortunately, no river running from these
-creeks up into the county, but they form an excellent and sheltered
-mooring from which to start upon sails into the Solent just to hand.
-
-This method of learning the county, the entry from the sea, is the most
-natural, the most historic, and the most germane to the nature of
-Sussex. Every port one enters is the port of Rape, every river up which
-one’s dinghy takes one is the river along which the penetration of the
-county has proceeded in past times, and one upon which its principal
-market-towns will be found. So Chichester, Arundel, Steyning, Lewes, can
-be reached, and with more difficulty towns farther up the country. The
-whole manner in which Sussex has grown up is impressed upon the man who
-enters it from the Channel.
-
-Unfortunately it is the least familiar and perhaps least easy of all
-the ways in which the county may be approached, but those who care to
-try the experiment will find themselves well repaid for the exertion the
-method involves, especially as they explore one of those valleys which
-lead through the Downs and reveal section by section, as one goes up
-stream, every distinctive portion and contrast of the countryside, until
-the heart of the Weald is reached, and the traveller can see from his
-boat, as the pirate of the fifth century saw from a wider and more
-marshy stream, the long, straight escarpment of the hills closing the
-horizon and defining the land to which he was to give his language and
-his tribal name.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX
-
-
-Adur, River, 39, 40
-
-Aella, legend of, 60
-
-Alfordean Bridge, on Stane Street, 58
-
-Amberley, antiquity of, 111
-  goes back to eighth century, 105
-  on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-  position on Arun, 36, 37
-
-Amberley Castle, 110
-
-Anderida, legend of fall of, 60-61
-  upon site of Pevensey, 53
-
-Angerming, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Arun, maritime portion of, 38
-
-Arun River, 35, 36
-  its advantages for sailing and boating, 186-188
-
-Arundel, absence of Roman relics in, 53
-  early fortification of, 66
-  original site of bridge of, 109
-  Rape of. _See_ Rape of Arundel river valley of, 37
-  town of, probable great antiquity of, 107-109
-
-Arundel Castle, new cut-flint work in, 32
-  view from river, 37, 38
-
-Ashburnham, family of, 126
-
-Ashington, family of, 14
-
-
-Bar, absence of, at mouth of Ouse, 41
-
-Bar, at mouth of Adur, 39
-
-Barlavington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Barnham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Bartelotts of Stopham, 127
-
-Battle, Monastery of, 119
-  position of, 44
-
-Battle of Hastings, 71-74
-
-Beach, value of to early navigators, 4
-
-Beachy Head, 179
-  difficulties of sailing under, 183, 184
-
-Beeding, mentioned in Alfred’s will, 101
-
-“Belts” for principal longitudinal divisions of Sussex, 10, 11
-
-Bexhill, mentioned in Doomsday, 92
-
-Bignor, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-  on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-  Roman pavement of, on Stane Street, 55
-
-Billingshurst, 113
-  on Stane Street, 58
-
-Binsted, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Bishopric, first Sussex, founded, 64
-
-Blunt, family of, 127, 133, 134 191
-
-Bosham, mentioned in Doomsday, 116
-
-Boundaries of Sussex, east and west, 5
-
-Boundary, northern, of Sussex, nature of, 8
-
-Boxgrove, Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, 118
-  on Stane Street, 55
-
-Bramber, a parliamentary borough, 101
-
-Bramber Castle, 99-100
-  continuity of possession of, 100
-  example of flint building, 31
-  early fortification of, 66
-  on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-Braose, first overlord of Rape of Bramber, 99
-
-Brighton, importance of in Rape of Lewes, 83
-  modern development of, 137, 138
-
-British Road under Downs, 15
-
-Buckman’s Farm, on Stane Street, 58
-
-Burford Bridge, on Stane Street, 54
-
-Burpham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  on Arun, 37
-
-Burrell, first Member for Rape of Bramber, 103, 104
-
-Burton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-
-Bury, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-  example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-  mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Buttolphs, mentioned in Doomsday, 101
-  position on Adur, 39
-
-Buxted, late development of, 91
-
-
-Canals from Arun, disused, 187, 188
-
-Castle Arundel, new cut-flint work in, 32
-  at Arundel, 37, 38
-  Bramber, example of flint building, 31
-
-Castles, secondary, of Sussex, 98, 99
-
-Chanctonbury Ring, 24, 176
-
-Chichester Harbour, difficulty of entry for small craft, 188, 189
-  marsh bounding Sussex to west, 5
-
-Chichester, principal town of coastal plain, 11
-  site of capital of the Regni, 48
-
-Christian religion destroyed by invasions, 62, 63
-
-Climping, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Coastal Plain, 11, 12
-  character of landscape of, 154, 155
-  track of journey along, 180
-
-Coast, Sussex, cruising along, 181-190
-
-Cobden’s Farm, upon belt of loam under the Downs, 14
-
-Cocking, mentioned in Doomsday, 116
-
-Cold Harbour on Stane Street, 55
-
-Combe, parish of, position on Adur, 39
-
-Coombes, mentioned in Doomsday, 101
-
-Counties, English, their characteristics, 1, 2
-
-Crowborough, disfigurement of, 147
-
-Crowhurst, mentioned in Doomsday, 92
-
-Cuckfield, date of origin of, 84
-  Manor of, history of, 128
-
-Cuckmere River, 41
-
-
-Dawtreys of Petworth, 126
-
-De Albinis, successors to Montgomerys, 106
-
-Devil’s Dyke, 177
-
-Dew pans on Downs, 25
-
-Doomsday, survey of Lewes Rape, 81-84
-
-Dorking Churchyard, on Stane Street, 54
-
-Downs, difficulty of building on, 21
-  earthworks on, 26, 27
-  roads across, fewness of, 34
-  system of dew pans, 25
-  uninhabited, 19
-  villages to south of, 29
-  villages under escarpment of, 28
-  woods of, 22, 23
-  South, backbone of Sussex, 2
-    contour of, 9
-    direction of axis of, 10
-    nature of, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
-    _see also_ South Downs
-
-Duncton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-
-Eartham, Manor of, history of, 129
-
-Earthworks on Downs, 26, 27
-
-Eastbourne, 141
-
-Eastergate, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Ecclesiastical power in Rape of Chichester, 115, 116
-
-Edward the Confessor, importance of reign of, 68
-
-Egdean, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-
-English counties, their characteristics, 1, 2
-
-
-Felpham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Feudalism, strength of, in Sussex, 78
-
-Firle Beacon, 179
-
-Fittleworth, its position on Western Rother, 36
-
-Fitz Alans, successors to the de Albinis, 106
-
-Five Oaks Green, on Stane Street, 58
-
-Flint, method of building with, 30, 31, 32
-
-Forest Ridge, 8, 11, 12
-
-Fortification, primitive, example of at Kithurst Hill, 175
-
-Frant, 90
-
-Fulcking, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-
-Gainsford, family of, 126
-
-Godwin, a Sussex man, 68
-  his estates in Sussex, 69
-
-Goring, family of, 126
-
-Goring, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Graffham, mentioned in Doomsday, 116
-  example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-  Manor and history of, 129
-
-Gumber Corner, view from, 163-173
-
-
-Hailsham, mentioned in Doomsday, 91
-
-Halnecker Hill, on Stane Street, 55
-
-Harbours, nature of Sussex, 3
-
-Hardham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, 118
-  Roman camp at, on Stane St., 56
-
-Hasting, the pirate, his raid, 66, 93
-
-Hastings, Battle of, 71-74
-  Castle of, 93-97
-  example of value of a beach, 4
-  importance of beach to early shipping, 93-95
-  name of, 93
-  origins of, 93-97
-  Rape of. _See_ Rape of Hastings
-
-Hastings Bay, method of crossing, 183
-
-“Hastings Plain,” site of Battle of Hastings, 71
-
-Hayward’s Heath, 13
-
-Henfield, mentioned in Doomsday, 101
-
-Heyshott, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-  mentioned as Percy Land, 117
-
-Highden, original home of the Gorings, 176
-
-Horsham, pronunciation of name of, 150
-  rises in thirteenth century, 101, 102
-
-Houghton, crossing of Arun at, 111, 112
-
-Houghton Forest, 113
-
-Howards, successors to Albinis, 106
-  successors to Mowbrays, 100, 101
-
-Hurstpierpoint, survey of Rape of Lewes, 83
-
-
-Invasion, Saxon, of Sussex, 60-64
-
-Iron industry, importance of to Rape of Pevensey, 90
-
-Iron industry of Weald, antiquity of, 59
-
-
-Juniper Hall, on Stane Street, 54
-
-
-Keymer, survey of Rape of Lewes, 83
-
-Kithurst Hill, 175
-
-Knepp Castle, 104
-
-
-Lancing, mentioned in Doomsday, 101
-
-Landscapes of Sussex, 150-155
-
-Lavington, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14
-  on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-Lewes, early fortification of, 66
-  importance of in Saxon times, 67
-  Norman Castle in, 81
-  position of on Ouse, 41
-  Rape of (_see also_ Rape of Lewes), 79-85
-  site of Battle of, 178
-  town, characteristics of, 80
-
-Linch Down, 162
-
-Littlehampton, at mouth of Arun, 38
-  difficulty of entry, and outside anchorage described, 185, 186
-
-Loam, belt of, villages upon, 14
-
-Looe Stream, 65
-
-
-Madehurst, Manor of, history of, 129
-
-Marshes bounding Sussex to east and west, 5
-  destruction of Roman roads in, 6
-
-Mayfield, first of Sussex line of ecclesiastical palaces, 90
-
-Midhurst, its position on Western Rother, 36
-  late development of, 117
-
-Monasteries of Sussex, 117-119
-
-Montgomerys, first overlords of Rape of Arundel, 106
-
-Morton, first overlord of Rape of Pevensey, 87
-
-Mount Caburn, example of prehistoric fortification, 91
-
-Mowbrays, successors to Braose, 100
-
-
-Nature of Sussex Harbours, 3
-
-Newhaven Harbour, advantages and disadvantages of, for small craft, 184
-
-Newhaven, position at mouth of Ouse, 41
-
-Newtimber, Manor of, history of, 131
-
-Norman Conquest in Sussex, 69-74
-
-Northchapel, 113
-
-Northern boundary of Sussex, nature of, 8
-
-Northstoke on Arun, 37
-
-
-Ockley (in Surrey), on Stane Street, 54
-
-Ouse, river, 40, 41
-
-Owers Lightship, 65
-
-Oxenbridge, family of, 126
-
-
-Palmers of Angerming, 126
-
-Parham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Peasantry of Sussex, character of, 144, 148
-
-Petworth, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Pevensey, ancient geographical position of, 89
-  Celtic derivation of the name, 87
-  decline of, 89, 90
-  Level, termination of the Wealdon flats on the sea, 11
-  Rape of, _see_ Rape of Pevensey
-  Roman remains in, 88
-  site of Anderida, 53
-  William the Conqueror lands there, 71
-
-Pine trees, comparatively recent in Sussex, 153-154
-
-Place names, Sussex, 61
-  of Sussex, pronunciation of, 149, 150
-
-Plain, Coastal, _see_ Coastal
-
-Poynings, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-Prehistory of Sussex unknown, 47
-
-Pulborough, its position on Arun, 36
-  mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Pulborough Bridge, point where Stane Street crossed the Arun, 57
-
-
-Rackham Hill, 175
-
-Rape of Arundel, 104-113
-  Arundel, Montgomerys first overlords of, 106
-  Bramber, 99-104
-
-Rape of Bramber, Braose first overlord of, 99
-  Chichester, 113-117
-  Hastings, 91-99
-  Lewes, growth of, 79-85
-    its central character, 85
-    original harbour of, 82
-  Lewes, William of Warren first overlord of, 82
-  Pevensey, 87-91
-  Pevensey, importance of iron industry, 90
-  Pevensey, Morton first overlord of, 87
-  Pevensey, shape of, 86
-
-Rapes, divisions of Sussex, 77
-  number and origin of, 78
-
-Regni, Sussex tribe, 48
-
-Ridge, forest, 8
-
-Rings of woods on Downs, 24
-
-Rivers of Sussex, 3, 35-44
-  give rise to earliest settlements, 4
-
-River valley, nature of Sussex, 42
-
-River valleys of Sussex, not used by main roads, 21, 22
-
-Robertsbridge, 91
-  Monastery of, 118
-  position of, on Rother, 44
-
-Roman basis of Sussex civilisation, 48-59
-  camp at Hardham, on Stane Street, 56
-  fortifications at Alfordean Bridge, 58
-  Road, Stane Street, crossing Arun, 36
-  Road, Stane Street, fully described, 54-58
-  Roads destroyed in marshes, 6
-
-Roman’s Wood, on Stane Street, 58
-
-Rother, river of, 43, 44
-  Valley of, marshes in, bound Sussex eastward, 5
-  Western, 35
-
-Rotherfield, antiquity of, 90
-
-Rottingdean, in Doomsday survey of Rape of Lewes, 83
-  modern disfigurement of, 139
-
-Rusper, late mention of, 102
-
-Rye, antiquity and original conditions of, 92
-  harbour of, difficulty of entry, 182
-
-
-Saddlescombe, 177
-
-Saint Wilfrid, story of, 64
-
-Sand formations in the Weald, 13
-
-Saxon invasions of Sussex, 60-64
-
-See of Selsea, founded, 64
-
-Senlac, discussion of the name, 72
-
-Shelleys, family of, 127, 132, 133
-
-Shipley, developed in twelfth century, 101
-
-Shoreham Harbour, entry of for small craft, described, 185
-
-Shoreham, Old, position on Adur, 39
-  rise and decline of, 102-103
-
-Singleton, in Doomsday, 116
-  Manor of, history of, 130
-
-Slinfold, 113
-
-South Downs, backbone of Sussex, 3
-  contour of, 9
-  journey along crest of described, 161-180
-
-Southstoke on Arun, 37
-
-Squires, rise of the power of, and disintegration of feudal system, 119-125
-
-St. Denis, monastery of, original lords of Rotherfield, 90
-
-“St. George and the Dragon” Inn at Houghton, 112
-
-St. Leonard’s Forest, originallv Braose Land, 102
-
-Stane Street, appearance of Gumber Corner, 171, 172
-  Roman road, crossing Arun, 36
-    fully described, 54-58
-
-Stenes, southern valleys of Downs, 23
-
-Steyning, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-Stopham, junction of Western Rother and Arun, 35
-  mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Storrington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-
-Strickland, family of, 126
-
-Sussex, bounded by the Weald, 2
-  character of peasant in, 144
-  created from the sea, 2
-  east, gradual disfigurement of, 146
-  epithet “Scilly” applied to, 117
-  exploration of east and west, 159-161
-  feudalism, strength of, 78
-  general plan of, 45, 46
-  grouped round the South Downs, 2
-  isolation in prehistoric times, 47
-  landscapes of, 150-155
-  natural boundaries of, east and west, 5
-  northern boundary of, nature of, 8
-  peasant, character of, 148
-  peculiar dialect of, somewhat exaggerated, 143
-  place names, 51
-  place names, pronunciation of, 149, 150
-  rivers, 3, 35-44
-  rivers of, determined the first settlements, 4
-  sharp division in east and west, 144
-  towns developed later according to distance from sea, 7
-
-Sutton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-
-Thatch, excellence of in Sussex, 135
-
-Theakham, 14
-
-Tortington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-  Monastery of, 119
-
-Towns, Sussex, developed later according to distance from sea, 7
-
-Tumuli above Duncton Hill, 27
-  on Downs, 27
-
-
-Uckfield, late development of, 91
-
-Upper Waltham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-
-Valleys, to south of Downs, called stenes, 23
-
-Villages to south of Downs, 29
-  under escarpment of Downs, 29
-
-
-Walberton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105
-
-Warren, the family of overlords of Rape of Lewes, 79
-
-Warren, William of, first overlord of Rape of Lewes, 82
-
-Washington, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15
-  pass over Downs at, 176
-
-Watering-places, growth of, 136-142
-
-Weald and parishes, shape of, 8
-  bounding Sussex to the north, 2
-  forest track through, present itinerary of described, 156-159
-  general character of, 12, 13
-  its military function at Norman Conquest, 73-76
-
-West Dean House, example of flint building, 32
-
-West Hampnet, on Stane Street, 54
-
-Wilfrid, Saint, story of, 64
-
-Willingdon Hill, 179
-
-Winchelsea, antiquity of and original conditions of, 92
-
-Wolstonbury Hill, 177
-
-Woods of the Downs, 22, 23
-
-Worth, last stage of development of Rape of Lewes, 84
-
-
-Yapton, 11
-
-
-THE END
-
-
-_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.
-
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sussex Painted By Wilfrid Ball, by Wilfrid Ball</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Sussex Painted By Wilfrid Ball</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Wilfrid Ball</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 6, 2022 [eBook #67784]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
-  <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images available at The Internet Archive)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUSSEX PAINTED BY WILFRID BALL ***</div>
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<p class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/cover.jpg">
-<img src="images/cover.jpg"
-height="550" alt="[Image of
-the book's cover unavailable.]" /></a>
-</p>
-
-<div class="blk">
-<table cellpadding="0"
-style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%;
-padding:1%;">
-<tr><td>
-
-<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p>
-
-<p class="c"><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers]
-clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span><br />
-<a href="#INDEX">Index</a></p>
-</td></tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="c">CORRIGENDA<br />
-[Corrections made in EBook.]<br /><br />
-
-Page 48, line 14,<br />
-“eastern” <i>should be</i> “western.”<br />
-<br />
-Page 82, last word on page,<br />
-“Shoreham” <i>should be</i> “Seaford.”<br />
-<br />
-Page 91, line 14,<br />
-“Beechy Head” <i>should be</i> “Beachy Head.”<br />
-<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p>
-</td></tr>
-
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<div class="blk">
-<p class="c">SUSSEX</p>
-<p>&#160; </p>
-<div class="bbox">
-<div class="bbox1">
-
-<p class="c">A COMPANION VOLUME<br />
-<br />IN THE SAME SERIES</p>
-</div>
-<div class="bbox1">
-<p class="cb">WESSEX</p>
-
-<p class="c">PAINTED BY WALTER TYNDALE</p>
-
-<p class="c">DESCRIBED BY CLIVE HOLLAND</p>
-
-<p class="c">CONTAINING <b>75</b> FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR</p>
-
-<p class="c">PRICE <b>20s.</b> NET</p>
-
-<p class="c">Post free, 20s. 6d.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. <span class="smcap">Thomas Hardy</span>, writing to Mr. Tyndale concerning his pictures
-reproduced in this volume, says: “...to their fidelity both in form
-and colour I can testify. And you seem to have conveyed in your
-renderings that under-picture, as one may say, that mood or temperament
-that pertains to each particular spot portrayed and to no other on
-earth.”</p>
-
-<p>Mr. Clive Holland writes in sympathy with Mr. Tyndale’s pictures, and he
-presents Wessex, its people, its story and romance, in an attractive
-form for the general reader.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="bbox1">
-<p class="c">
-<span class="smcap">Published by</span><br />
-A. &amp; C. BLACK, <span class="smcap">Soho Square</span>, LONDON, W.<br />
-</p>
-</div></div>
-</div>
-
-<table cellpadding="0">
-<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">AGENTS</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">America &#160; &#160; </td><td align="left">The Macmillan Company</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">&#160;</td><td class="c">64 &amp; 66 Fifth Avenue, New York</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Canada</td><td align="left">The Macmillan Company of Canada, Ltd.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">&#160;</td><td class="c">27 Richmond Street West, Toronto</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">India</td><td align="left">Macmillan &amp; Company, Ltd.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">&#160;</td><td class="c">Macmillan Building, Bombay</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">&#160;</td><td class="c">309 Bow Bazaar Street, Calcutta</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_001" style="width: 450px;">
-<a href="images/ill_001.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_001.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE VILLAGE OF BATTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h1>SUSSEX</h1>
-
-<p class="cnind">
-PAINTED &#160; BY &#160; WILFRID<br />
-BALL, R.E. · PUBLISHED<br />
-BY &#160;ADAM &#160;&amp; &#160; CHARLES<br />
-BLACK·LONDON·MCMVI<br />
-<br />
-<img src="images/colophon.png"
-width="80"
-alt="[Image unavailable.]" />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
-
-<table cellpadding="0">
-
-<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#PART_I">PART I</a></th></tr>
-<tr><td>&#160; </td><td><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd"><span class="smcap">The Physical Nature of the County</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr>
-<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#PART_II">PART II</a></th></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd"><span class="smcap">The Historical Development of Sussex</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_47">47</a></td></tr>
-<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#PART_III">PART III</a></th></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd"><span class="smcap">The Individual Character of Sussex and the Way to See the County</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_143">143</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd"><span class="smcap">Index</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_191">191</a></td></tr>
-
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
-
-<table cellpadding="0">
-
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_001">1.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_001">The Village of Battle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#ill_001"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td colspan="2">&#160; </td><td><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_002">2.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_002">Market Cross, Alfriston</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_2">2</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_003">3.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_003">Hastings, Fishing Fleet</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_4">4</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_004">4.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_004">Bosham</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_6">6</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_005">5.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_005">Mayfield</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_8">8</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_006">6.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_006">Chichester Cross</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_10">10</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_007">7.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_007">Lyminster</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_12">12</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_008">8.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_008">Bury, from the Arun</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_14">14</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_009">9.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_009">Sussex Hills</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_16">16</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_010">10.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_010">The Rother</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_18">18</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_011">11.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_011">Cold Waltham</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_20">20</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_012">12.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_012">Fittleworth Bridge</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_22">22</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_013">13.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_013">Coates</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_24">24</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_014">14.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_014">Amberley Village</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_28">28</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_015">15.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_015">Bramber Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_32">32</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_016">16.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_016">South Harting</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_34">34</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_017">17.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_017">The Swan Hotel, Fittleworth</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_36">36</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_018">18.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_018">Arundel Castle (Evening)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_38">38</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_019">19.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_019">The Town Clock, Steyning</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_40">40</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_020">20.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_020">The Rother at Fittleworth</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_42">42</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_021">21.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_021">Rye</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_44">44</a>
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x">{x}</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_022">22.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_022">Church Street, Steyning</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_46">46</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_023">23.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_023">Farmhouse, Leys Green</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_50">50</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_024">24.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_024">Near Pevensey</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_52">52</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_025">25.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_025">Lych Gate, Pulborough</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_56">56</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_026">26.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_026">Pulborough</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_58">58</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_027">27.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_027">Hartfield, The Inn</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_60">60</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_028">28.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_028">Ewhurst</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_62">62</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_029">29.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_029">Malling Mill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_66">66</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_030">30.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_030">Fishbourne Mill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_68">68</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_031">31.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_031">St. Mary’s Church, Rye</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_70">70</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_032">32.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_032">Fittleworth Village</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_72">72</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_033">33.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_033">Groombridge</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_76">76</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_034">34.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_034">Bosham (Mill Bridge)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_78">78</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_035">35.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_035">West Ham</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_80">80</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_036">36.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_036">Lewes Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_037">37.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_037">Garden of the Moated House, Groombridge</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_038">38.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_038">Pevensey Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_86">86</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_039">39.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_039">Cliffs near Eastbourne</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_040">40.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_040">Mayfield</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_90">90</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_041">41.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_041">Winchelsea</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_92">92</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_042">42.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_042">The Star Inn, Alfriston</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_94">94</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_043">43.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_043">Hastings, The Shore</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_044">44.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_044">Hurstmonceaux Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_045">45.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_045">Bodiam Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_046">46.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_046">Arundel Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_047">47.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_047">Amberley Chalk Pits</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_106">106</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_048">48.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_048">Midhurst, Knock Hundred Row</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_049">49.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_049">Amberley Church</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_050">50.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_050">Mermaid Street, Rye</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_114">114</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_051">51.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_051">Singleton</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_052">52.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_052">Gatehouse, Battle Abbey</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_118">118</a>
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_053">53.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_053">Winchelsea Mill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_054">54.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_054">Glynde</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_124">124</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_055">55.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_055">Angmering Mill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_126">126</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_056">56.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_056">Near Hardham</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_057">57.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_057">Mickleham Priory</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_058">58.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_058">The Mermaid Inn, Rye</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_132">132</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_059">59.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_059">Bury Church</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_060">60.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_060">Fittleworth Water Mill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_061">61.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_061">High Street, East Grinstead</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_062">62.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_062">Cottages at Mayfield</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_063">63.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_063">Crowborough Heath</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_152">152</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_064">64.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_064">Rye from Camber</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_065">65.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_065">Hartfield</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_156">156</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_066">66.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_066">Pulborough Marsh</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_067">67.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_067">King Richard’s Walk, Chichester Cathedral</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_164">164</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_068">68.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_068">Old Whiting Mill, Midhurst</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_069">69.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_069">Mill Pool, Midhurst</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_170">170</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_070">70.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_070">Beachy Head</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_178">178</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_071">71.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_071">Willingdon</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_180">180</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_072">72.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_072">Boat-building at Rye</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_073">73.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_073">Old Shoreham Bridge</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_074">74.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_074">The Arun, near Pulborough</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_186">186</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="rt"><a href="#ill_075">75.</a></td><td><a href="#ill_075">Bosham</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_188">188</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class="c"><i>Sketch Map at end of Volume.</i>
-<br /><br /><br />
-
-<i>The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved and printed in
-England by the Hentschel Colour-type process.</i></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<h1>SUSSEX</h1>
-
-<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I<br /><br />
-THE PHYSICAL NATURE OF THE COUNTY</h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> English counties differ in two ways from the divisions into which
-other European countries have fallen: in the first place, they are
-somewhat smaller than the average division, natural or artificial, of
-other countries; and in the second place, they have in many cases a more
-highly-specialised life. Both these features have been of great value in
-building up the history of England, and, before one sets out to
-understand any county, it is always worth one’s while to remember them
-and to appreciate their importance in our national development.</p>
-
-<p>The strong local character of counties is more discoverable in some than
-in others. Thus Cheshire with its distinctive plain; Cornwall with its
-peculiar racial and, till recently, linguistic features; Devon, all
-grouped round one great lump of hills, almost<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span> make little nations by
-themselves. Again, those who are acquainted with the north of England
-will mark the quite separate character which Durham contrasts against
-Yorkshire on the south and Northumberland upon the north. There are
-other districts where several counties group themselves together, and
-where the whole group differs more from the rest of England than do the
-separate counties of the group one from another. This is particularly
-the case with East Anglia, and to some extent it is the case with the
-Shires.</p>
-
-<p>When (to return to the case of particular counties) some strong local
-differential is discoverable it can nearly always be traced to a
-combination of historical and topographical causes. It is our business
-to examine these first in an appreciation of the county of Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>Sussex was created from the sea. Its inhabitants and its invaders at all
-periods, save perhaps in the height of the Roman prosperity, and again
-during the last hundred and fifty years, have had a difficulty in going
-northward, because there spread north of the most habitable region the
-long belt of what is called the Weald. Sussex is, in a word, a great
-range of hills along the south coast inhabited upon either slope and
-upon either plain</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_002" style="width: 457px;">
-<a href="images/ill_002.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_002.jpg" width="457" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MARKET CROSS, ALFRISTON</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">at either base, but cut off from the Thames valley by a soil long
-uncultivated and more suited to forest than to habitation.</p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE HARBOURS</div>
-
-<p>From the coast side it presents a number of clearly-defined harbours,
-from which it has evidently been colonised, and from which we know it to
-have been invaded; these harbours are the mouths of its small, parallel,
-characteristic rivers&mdash;the Arun, the Adur, the Ouse, the Cuckmere, and
-the Rother. Of natural harbours other than the mouths of the rivers it
-now has none, though it is probable that in the remote past plains,
-which are now dry land guarded by small elevations (as for example,
-Pevensey and Winchelsea), formed natural harbours afterwards
-artificially developed. These harbours are small for our modern scale of
-shipping, and the strong tide that runs in them is rather a disadvantage
-than otherwise for those who use them to-day. But in early times such
-tides were nothing but an advantage, and the smaller draft and beam of
-the shipping found ample accommodation in the river mouths. It is also
-to be noted that these river mouths stood at fairly even distances one
-from the other. There is not in the whole length of the coast of
-England, from the South Foreland to Penzance, a strip of coast so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span>
-exactly divided by refuges set at regular distances into which small
-craft can run. Moreover, Sussex also provides a multitude of those even,
-sloping, and safe beaches which were of such immense importance to early
-navigators, with whom the beaching of a whole fleet was among the
-commonest ways of effecting a landing. The typical Sussex example of
-this early advantage and of a town springing around it is, of course, to
-be discovered at Hastings.</p>
-
-<p>It may next be inquired what limits eastward and westward existed to
-form natural boundaries for the county. This is a point of great
-interest which has been but little examined, but which a consideration
-of the geography of Sussex should make sufficiently plain. The early
-settlements along the river mouths were grouped together in one
-countryside by the comparative facility of communication along the
-sea-plain, and again by the comparative facility of communication along
-the well-watered belt to the north of the Downs. It may be imagined that
-the settlements around the harbours of the Ouse, of the Arun, and of the
-Adur, would, from the earliest times, have been in touch with each other
-along the flat of the coast, and that their extensions along the river
-valleys to</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_003" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_003.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_003.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HASTINGS&mdash;FISHING FLEET</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">the north of the hills, as also the separate harbour at the mouth of the
-Rother, would equally have been in communication by that ancient track
-most of which subsists to this day, and of which further mention will be
-made later on in these pages. But, when the primitive inhabitant
-attempted a similar communication eastward into what is now Kent, or
-westward with what is now Hampshire, his way was barred by two great
-tongues of marsh.</p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE MARSHES</div>
-
-<p>Traces of these marshes still exist after two thousand years of
-cultivation, and in the very earliest times they must have presented a
-most formidable obstacle to travel. The one group which lies to the east
-of the valley of the Rother is still in part undrained; the other, which
-forms a mass of tidal creeks and inlets round about Hayling Island,
-Bosham, and Chichester harbour, is almost equally difficult. These two,
-then, set the limits of the county; for marsh is, of all obstacles, the
-most considerable at the beginning of a civilisation, as it is the least
-remembered in the height of one. It cannot be forded as can a stream,
-nor swum nor sailed upon; mere effort, such as that required for the
-climbing of mountains, is of no avail against it, and, whereas some
-considerable toil <i>will</i> clear a track through a forest,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> and a track
-which, in our climate at least, can be maintained, once it is formed,
-with little labour, no such effort is of avail to primitive man in
-attempting to cross a morass. To drain it is quite beyond his power, and
-the formation of a causeway of hard land is, even in our own day, a most
-expensive and long process, as those readers who are acquainted with the
-history of our engineering will remember when they recall the building
-of the Manchester and Liverpool Railway across Chat Moss.</p>
-
-<p>It may be remarked in passing that there are scattered up and down
-England many examples of the difficulties which Fenland and bog present
-to an imperfect civilisation, and these are to be found in the
-“Stretfords,” “Stratfords,” “Standfords,” etc., which invariably mark a
-place where a hard Roman road was conducted across a river and its
-adjoining wet lands. In such places the straight line of the old Roman
-road can usually be traced, and one can also usually see how the modern
-road follows a devious track given to it after the decline of the Roman
-civilisation, when the imperial ways had been allowed to decay, and the
-half-barbarian traveller of the Dark Ages picked his way as best he
-could from one dry patch to another. These</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_004" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_004.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_004.jpg" width="600" height="377" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BOSHAM</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">deviations of the modern from the Roman lines across rivers and marshes
-in England are one of the most striking evidences of the gulf into which
-civilisation sank after the advent of the Saxon pirates.</p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">DATE OF TOWNS</div>
-
-<p>Sussex, then, has been naturally delimited in its growth by the forest
-of the Weald all along the north, and by these two groups of marshes at
-the extreme east and west of the county; and the older our record the
-greater importance assumed by towns within reach of, or upon, the sea.
-Thus Midhurst, Petworth, Pulboro, Horsham, Mayfield, Battle, come all of
-them comparatively late in the history of the development of the county.
-Chichester, Arundel, Lewes, Hastings, Pevensey, come early in that
-development, and so does Bramber with its harbour of Old Shoreham.
-Pevensey and Chichester are associated with a Roman name; Bramber, or
-rather its neighbour Shoreham, and Pevensey (again) with the first of
-the Saxon invasions. Arundel with the reign of King Alfred; Hastings and
-(for the third time) Pevensey with the Norman invasion; whereas the
-other towns that lie in a belt northward upon the edge of the Weald are
-not heard of till the Middle Ages.</p>
-
-<p>The present boundaries of the county are neces<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span>sarily somewhat
-artificial, though they conform fairly closely to the natural features
-which we have just been considering. Their artificiality is most easily
-seen along the north. The true line of division should run along the
-ridge of the forests: St Leonards and Ashdown.</p>
-
-<p>As a fact, political and organised Sussex overlaps this ridge and takes
-in part of what is geographically Surrey upon the north. The reason of
-this is that during many centuries the Weald was so sparsely inhabited
-that the Surrey villages under the North Downs, and the Sussex villages
-under the South Downs, thrust out long extensions into the forest, a
-custom which gave to those parishes a most peculiar shape. They were
-drawn into strips, as it were, whose inhabitants dwelt clustered at one
-end of the elongated band. A phenomenon of much the same kind is to be
-discovered along the St. Lawrence in Canada, where each village
-clustered upon the river claims a long strip of hinterland behind it
-into the forest of the north.</p>
-
-<p>The line of division between these Surrey parishes, which stretched out
-southwards into the forest and these Sussex villages which stretched out
-northward to meet them, was probably never clearly defined, and was,
-indeed, of little importance. The</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_005" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_005.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_005.jpg" width="600" height="399" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MAYFIELD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">PARISHES OF WEALD</div>
-
-<p class="nind">farther one got from the village church and the group of houses, the
-less it mattered under whose jurisdiction one fell, and when, with the
-growth of civilisation and the necessity for exact boundaries, a line
-was at last drawn, it was drawn somewhat in favour of the Sussex
-parishes, whose manorial lords were of greater political importance than
-those of Surrey: for the reason that they held the great castles which
-defended the south of England. It was, presumably, in this way that the
-ribbon of land which lies to the north of the forest ridge came to be
-included within the political boundaries of the modern county.</p>
-
-<p>Viewed in the light of such a development from the sea, the topography
-of Sussex falls into a comparatively simple scheme.</p>
-
-<p>The whole county is determined by the great line of chalk hills which
-stand steep up against the Weald, that is, with their escarpment facing
-northward, and which slope gradually towards the sea plain upon the
-south in such a fashion, that a section taken anywhere in that range
-resembles in form a wave driven forward by the south-west wind and just
-about to break over the Weald. It is not the least of the unities which
-render Sussex so harmonious that this main range of the South Downs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span>
-which are the strong framework of the whole county, should have all the
-appearance of being blown forward into its shape by those Atlantic gales
-which also determine the configuration of the trees in the sea-plain and
-upon the slopes of the hills.</p>
-
-<p>Were this range of the South Downs to run parallel to the sea throughout
-the length of the county the topographical scheme of which we are
-speaking could be set forth in very few words. The whole county would
-fall at once and without qualification into four long parallel belts:
-the sea-plain, the Downs next inland to it, the belt of old villages at
-the foot of the Downs to the north (that is, the southern edge of the
-Weald), and the forest ridge to the north of the whole. As a fact,
-however, these lines, though parallel to one another, are not strictly
-parallel to the sea coast; they tilt somewhat from the north-west to the
-south-east, so that the plan of the county resembles a piece of stuff
-woven in four broad bands which have been cut in bias, or, as the phrase
-goes, “on the cross.” Each belt has, therefore, its termination on the
-sea. The coastal plain gets narrower and narrower, and comes to an end
-at Brighton; the Chalk Downs run into the sea just beyond this point,
-and are cut off, in sharp white cliffs all along Seaford Bay, in a</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_006" style="width: 479px;">
-<a href="images/ill_006.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_006.jpg" width="479" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CHICHESTER CROSS</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">face of white precipice which culminates at Beachy Head. The southern
-Weald and the flats, which run all across the county just north of the
-Downs, come to the sea in that great even stretch between Eastbourne and
-Hastings for which the general name is Pevensey Level; and, finally, the
-somewhat complicated and diversified forest ridge, with its mixture of
-clay and sand, runs into the sea in the neighbourhood of Hastings.</p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE FOUR BELTS</div>
-
-<p>These four great belts may be traced, not only in the relief of the
-county, but also in its superficial geology; the sea plain is throughout
-of a deep, strong, brown loamy soil, among the most fertile in England,
-and fetching by far the highest rents paid anywhere in the county. In
-the best of its stretch, between Chichester and Worthing, it is from
-four to six miles broad, closely inhabited and, though recently marred
-by the growth of a whole string of watering-places, still preserving a
-very characteristic life of its own. Except Chichester no town of any
-antiquity stands upon it, but it nourishes a great number of prosperous
-agricultural villages, the size and the architecture of whose churches
-are sufficient to prove their economic condition in the past.</p>
-
-<p>Among the most characteristic of these is Yap<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span>ton, which is supposed to
-be the “tun” or hamlet of Eappa&mdash;a comrade of St. Wilfred’s, the
-missionary and the first bishop of the county. Lyminster is another
-excellent example of what these places were in the past, and its great
-church is the more striking from the decay of the parish around it.</p>
-
-<p>The forest ridge (to take the farther boundary first) has, though
-somewhat confused, a geological characteristic of its own, for it
-consists of sand rising from and mixed with the clay of the Weald. This
-clay, in its turn, lying between the forest ridge and the Downs, though
-diversified by occasional outcrops of sand, is fairly uniform. From the
-beginning it has been covered, not very thickly, but very generally,
-with those short, strong oaks which have furnished the timber for all
-the old buildings of the county. We will turn later to the question of
-whether this stiff and somewhat ungrateful soil of the Weald was ever
-wholly uninhabited: in this initial survey it must suffice to remark
-that even to-day the development of that soil is difficult. Places
-specially favoured with good water have been occupied for centuries, and
-form at the present time the market towns of the Weald. The spaces
-between them are remarkable</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_007" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_007.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_007.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>LYMINSTER</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">WATER ON THE WEALD</div>
-
-<p class="nind">for the isolation of their farmhouses, and to-day for the way in which
-the Londoner is discovering to his cost the stubborn nature of the
-county. Modern invention, and especially the invention of the motor car,
-has made this situation tempting enough to townsmen, but the new
-buildings which they attempt to found upon places whose desertion is
-incomprehensible to them are met with continual difficulties. The water
-is often bad, the soil much damper in winter than the summer
-promised&mdash;for these experiments are nearly always the result of a first
-view taken in the height of summer. The long, and often futile, digging
-for good water, the cost of pumping it when, if ever, it is found,
-combine to make the new attempts at building on the clay of the Weald
-grow slacker as time proceeds. There are, however, more grateful
-opportunities scattered here and there in those outcrops of sand and
-gravel of which I have spoken. Haywards Heath has grown up in this way,
-and there are a multitude of villages half-way between the forest ridge
-and the Downs which owe the greater part of their beauty to the sharp
-contours of the sandstone.</p>
-
-<p>These outcrops have formed centres of population from the very earliest
-times, as, for example,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> at Burton, Egdean, Thakeham, Ashington, and in
-many other places.</p>
-
-<p>This belt of clay interspersed with occasional heights of sand, and
-lying between the forest ridge and the Downs, is the broadest of the
-four; it is rarely less than ten miles in width and often as much as
-fifteen. Just between it and the escarpment of the Downs runs a narrow
-belt of green-sand, and again, right under the hills, a narrow belt of
-loam, which last affords almost the best arable land in this part of the
-county. It is this narrow belt of loam which has given their value to a
-procession of famous estates under the shadow of the hills, as Heyshott,
-where was Cobden’s Farm; Graffham; Lavington, which was Sargent land,
-and of which Wilberforce and Manning were in turn the squires; Burton,
-which was the first to appear in history; West Burton; Bignor, which the
-Romans developed; Bury, upon the Arun. To some extent Parrham, the most
-typical of Sussex houses, and Wistons, the best example of the
-renaissance, draw their wealth from this narrow belt of loam, as,
-farther east, does New Timber, and many another great house. The list
-might be extended indefinitely.</p>
-
-<p>This long stretch under the escarpment of the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_008" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_008.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_008.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BURY, FROM THE ARUN</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE BRITISH TRACK</div>
-
-<p>Downs contains, perhaps, the oldest remaining monument of man’s activity
-in the county: all the way from Heyshott to Ditchling Beacon, and, as it
-is claimed, even right on to Lewes, there runs what is evidently a
-prehistoric trackway. Its antiquity is proved by many indications, but
-chiefly by this, that it has sunk deep, even into the hardest soils.
-There is a point near Sutton, under Cold Harbour Hill, where it is
-perhaps twelve feet below the general level of the soil, and there are
-many places where it is over six. This old way, which is utilised almost
-throughout the whole of its length by modern lanes, links up centres of
-population which are as old, one must imagine, as the existence of
-mankind in this island. Their names are those which we have just seen in
-connection with the great estates to which these villages
-belong&mdash;Lavington, Bignor, Bury, Amberley, Storrington, Washington,
-Steyning, Bramber, Povnings, Fulcking, and so on eastwards to Lewes.</p>
-
-<p>It was not only the fertility of the loam, nor only the proximity of the
-Weald for a hunting-ground, that produced these little prehistoric
-villages, but also the excellent supply of water.</p>
-
-<p>Sussex is, perhaps, of all the English counties that one in which it is
-most difficult to find good<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span> water, as we have already seen in speaking
-of the Weald, and as we shall see further when we come to talk of the
-Chalk Downs. But these little villages, standing as they do just upon
-the crack where the chalk (which is permeable and full of water like a
-sponge) comes sharp on to the impermeable soil of the Weald, are all fed
-by a multitude of delicious running streams filtered through hundreds of
-feet of the pure carbon of the hills and bursting out along the old
-road. They turn mills, they water orchards and small closes, they spread
-into teeming fish-ponds, and have, more than any other cause, created
-these little villages. There is hardly one without its stream.</p>
-
-<p>Having reviewed these three belts&mdash;the coast-plain, the forest ridge,
-and the southern belt of the Weald&mdash;it remains for us to describe that
-which is by far the most important, namely, the South Downs. It will be
-necessary to devote to those hills a closer attention than we have given
-to the rest of the county, for one may call them, without much
-exaggeration, the county itself. Sussex is Sussex on account of the
-South Downs. Their peculiar landscape, their soil, their uniformity,
-give the county all its meaning.</p>
-
-<p class="cdtts">. . . . . .</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_009" style="width: 481px;">
-<a href="images/ill_009.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_009.jpg" width="481" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>SUSSEX HILLS</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE CHALK-RANGES</div>
-
-<p>The principal hill ranges of South England, the Chilterns, the Cotswold,
-the Mendips, the North and South Downs, the Dorset Downs, and the
-Berkshire Downs, roughly converge upon Salisbury Plain. Of the
-importance of that site in the history of our island there is no space
-to speak here, but it is necessary to remember the disposition of the
-ranges in order to appreciate how great a rôle the South Downs must have
-played in the early history of Britain; for they furnished, as did the
-other three great chalk ranges (the Dorset Downs, the North Downs, and
-the Chilterns, with their continuation in the Berkshire Downs), the main
-routes of travel in early times. They were bare of trees, dry, and
-fairly even along their summits, and, save in a few places, they
-afforded a good view upon either side, so that the traveller could in
-primitive times beware of the approach of enemies.</p>
-
-<p>The great mass of chalk which forms the Hampshire Highland splits,
-before the eastern boundary of that county is reached, into two
-branches; the northern one of these runs through Surrey, straight to the
-Medway in Kent, crosses that river, and turns down to meet the sea at
-Dover. The southern branch enters the county of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span> Sussex just beyond
-Petersfield, and thence eastward forms this range of the South Downs.</p>
-
-<p>There is no other stretch of hills precisely like them in Europe; their
-nearest counterpart is that other northern range formed much upon the
-same model, and of the same material, which looks at them from thirty
-miles away across the Weald. They run in one straight wall for sixty
-miles, maintaining throughout that length a similar conformation with a
-similar escarpment turned perpetually to the north; a similar absence of
-water; a similar presence from place to place of groups of beech-trees
-which occasionally crown their highest summits; a similar succession of
-comparatively low passes, and a similar though rarer series of what the
-people of the county call “gaps,” that is, gorges, or rather rounded
-clefts, in which their continuity is completely broken by the passage of
-a river. They are the most uniform, the most striking, and the most
-individual of all the lower ranges to be discovered in this island or in
-neighbouring countries. They might be compared by a traveller to the
-line of the Argonne, or to the steep, even hills above the Moselle
-before it enters German territory. But they are more of one kind than
-are even these united ranges. Coming upon</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_010" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_010.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_010.jpg" width="600" height="360" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE ROTHER</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">NATURE OF SOUTH DOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">them from the north, as so many do now, motoring and bicycling south
-from London, their steep, sharp face showing black with the daylight
-behind it, is the principal feature of the south-east of England.</p>
-
-<p>Their contours depend, of course, upon the chalk of which they are
-built. This lies in regular layers five, six, and sometimes eight
-hundred feet deep from their summits to the level of the plain beneath
-them. It is weathered into rounded shapes that have no peaks and no
-precipices, or at least no precipices save those which man has
-deliberately created, where he has dug straight out of their sides for
-chalk, or where they meet the sea and are washed into perpendicular
-cliffs. These rounded lines of theirs against the sky, when one is
-travelling along them, seem in some way to add to their loneliness, and
-that loneliness is among the most striking of their features.</p>
-
-<p>They have never been built upon; it is to be believed (and profoundly to
-be hoped) they never will be built upon. The depth to which wells have
-to be sunk before water can be found is so great as to check any
-experiment of this kind. There is in the whole skyline, from Petersfield
-right to Beachy Head, not a single human habitation to break the noble
-aspect of these hills against the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span> sky save one offensive shed, or what
-not, just north of Brighton where, it may be presumed, the economic
-powers of vulgarism are too strong even for the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>Cultivation is also very rare upon them. They are covered with a short,
-dense, and very sweet turf suited to the famous flocks of sheep which
-browse upon them, and of little value for any other agricultural purpose
-than the pasturage thus afforded.</p>
-
-<p>Those who best know the Downs and have lived among them all their lives
-can testify how, for a whole day’s march, one may never meet a man’s
-face; or if one meets it, it will be the face of some shepherd who may
-be standing lonely with his dog beside him upon the flank of the green
-hill and with his flock scattered all around. The isolation of these
-summits is the more remarkable from the pressure of population which is
-growing so rapidly to the south of them, and which is beginning to
-threaten the Weald to their north. But no modern change seems to affect
-the character of these lonely stretches of grass, and it may be noted
-with satisfaction that, when those ignorant of the nature of Sussex
-attempt to violate the security of the Downs, that experiment of theirs
-is commonly attended with misfortune.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_011" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_011.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_011.jpg" width="600" height="398" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>COLD WALTHAM</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX RIVERS</div>
-
-<p>Thus an open space of park-land beyond Madehurst invited the eye of a
-very wealthy man (presumably from the north) somewhat more than a
-century ago. He had not, indeed, the folly to build upon the crest of
-the hills, but he built not far from their summits for the pleasure that
-the view afforded him. The house was large and pretentious. To this day
-it depends for its water upon chance rains, and in the drought it pays
-for water as one may have to do for any other valuable thing.</p>
-
-<p>We have seen that the unison of the Downs is broken by a certain number
-of regular gaps&mdash;the valleys, that is, of the Wealden rivers. For the
-rivers of Sussex, by an accident which geologists have attempted to
-explain, are not determined by the rise of these great hills, but on the
-contrary cut right through them from the Weald to the sea. The Arun,
-from the Wealden town of Pulborough to its seaport of Littlehampton, the
-little Adur from various sources round by Shipley and Cuckfield to its
-harbour town of Shoreham, the Ouse from the Wealden town of Uckfield to
-its harbour town of Newhaven, all cut right through the chalk hills and
-form narrow, level valleys of alluvial soil between one section of the
-Downs and the next.</p>
-
-<p>These valleys where they cut through the Downs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> were never used for
-roads before modern times. The good road along the little Adur to
-Shoreham is fairly old, but it must be remembered that at this point the
-Downs come very close to the sea. Along the Ouse and along the Arun no
-road was attempted until quite lately. There does now exist, and perhaps
-has existed for two or three hundred years past, a road from Lewes to
-the mouth of the Ouse, but even to-day there is none along the Arun
-valley. The soil was too marshy for such a road to be constructed in
-early times, and the dry hill-way once fixed and metalled has become the
-only permanent road to Arundel.</p>
-
-<p>The afforesting of the range of the Downs is worthy of remark. The woods
-are of two kinds&mdash;those that crown the foot-hills towards the sea and
-here and there the high slopes of the Downs themselves, and those that
-have caught on to the slight alluvial drift of the hollows. In both
-cases they are principally of beech, while in the open around them,
-along the old tracks and clinging to the crest of the escarpments, are
-lines of very ancient and somewhat stunted yews. In both cases, whether
-over the round of the hills or in their hollows, the Sussex woods are
-somewhat limited in extent and fairly clear of undergrowth. Through all
-the forest</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_012" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_012.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_012.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FITTLEWORTH BRIDGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE BEECH AND THE YEW</div>
-
-<p class="nind">known as the Nore Wood a man can ride his horse in pretty well any
-direction without following a path; the same is true of Houghton Forest
-and of the other large woods of the Downs. This ease they owe to two
-things: first, the character of the beech-trees, which forms under its
-branches a thick bed of mast, out of which but few spears of greenery
-will show; and, secondly, that quality of the chalk by which (to the
-salvation of Sussex!) it is but slightly fertile, and by which it
-therefore preserves itself intact from the invasion of man. Indeed, it
-is remarkable that the two trees of the Downs, the yew and the beech,
-both make for a clear soil, and there is a proverb in those parts&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry">
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">Under the Beech and th’ Yow<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Nowt’ll grow.<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The valleys of the Downs differ very much according to whether they are
-upon the south or upon the north of the range. Those to the south are
-valleys of erosion, shallow, broad, and funnel-shaped, with their wide
-mouths opening towards the sea and the south-west wind. They are usually
-called <i>Stenes</i>,&mdash;a word which is sometimes spelt “<i>Steine</i>,”&mdash;the best
-known of which hollows is the valley running through Brighton. There are
-any number between that point and Goodwood. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span> their lower parts they
-support farmhouses, and occasionally they carry one of the great roads
-which cross the Downs from the north. They are wind-swept, and hold the
-snow very late; but in summer they are among the most sheltered corners
-of South England.</p>
-
-<p>Upon the north the steep escarpment of the hills forbids any such
-conformation. Here the valleys take the shape of very steep hollows of a
-horseshoe outline known as <i>combes</i>, a Celtic word, and frequently hung
-with deep woods which are known both here and in Kent (and in other
-parts of the south country) as <i>hangers</i>. The most sombre and the most
-silent of these are perhaps those of Burton, Lavington, and Bury.</p>
-
-<p>The woods upon the slopes, the foot-hills, and the summits are of a
-different order. Those upon the actual crests are commonly artificial,
-and are known as “clumps” or “rings.” The Dukes of Richmond have planted
-a few such near Goodwood, but the most famous is the great landmark of
-Chanctonbury Ring, above Wiston, which is a resting-point for the eye
-not only up and down forty miles of the Channel, but also up and down
-forty miles of the opposing northern range. The woods of the foot-hills
-and of the slopes are, on the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_013" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_013.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="600" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>NEAR COATES</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">DEW PANS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">contrary, primeval&mdash;as can be proved from the absence beneath them of
-Roman or prehistoric remains.</p>
-
-<p>It has already been remarked that the hydrographical system of the South
-Downs is a peculiar one, that the rivers of Sussex are in no way
-determined as to their courses by that range of hills, and that the
-heights themselves are devoid of water, because all that falls upon them
-percolates through the chalk and does not spring out again until it
-finds the clay at their base. But there is upon the Downs a traditional
-method of water-getting handed down, perhaps, from prehistoric times
-when the camps of refuge, of which we shall speak in a moment, were hard
-put to it to water their garrisons. This method is the formation of dew
-pans. A space is hollowed out, preferably towards the summit of a hill.
-It is circular and shallow in form, and is coated with some impermeable
-substance&mdash;to-day, usually, with concrete. In a very short time this pan
-will fill with the dew and the rain, and in such a pond, if its
-dimensions are sufficiently large, there will but rarely be lack of
-water after it is once formed. It is true that no great strain is laid
-upon them, though the present writer does know of one case, outside the
-boundaries of the county, where a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span> one has been constructed to
-supply all the needs of a considerable household.</p>
-
-<p>A further matter which every one who is familiar with them must have
-remarked upon the Downs, is the presence of numerous earthworks raised
-apparently for defence, and often of very great size. The classical
-instances of these and the most perfect examples are upon Mount Caburn
-and Cissbury, one of the foot-hills towards the sea, upon which research
-has proved that the prehistoric, the Roman, and the barbarian pirate
-inhabitants have lived in succession. Here was discovered that regular
-manufactory of flint instruments which is among the most curious prizes
-of modern prehistoric research, and here also Roman and Saxon ornaments
-have been found succeeding those of the neolithic men.</p>
-
-<p>But though Cissbury is the most perfect, it is but one of very many
-similar camps. There is hardly one of the greater summits of the Downs
-that does not bear traces of these enclosures, and upon some of the
-hills, notably east of Ambery and again east of Bramber, they are as
-perfect as they are enormous. There can be little doubt that they were
-created for the purposes of defence, and the late General Pitt-Rivers
-conducted an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE TUMULI</div>
-
-<p class="nind">exhaustive inquiry into the number of men that would be required to
-garrison them, upon their structure, positions, and numbers in this and
-other countries. But the historical, or rather prehistoric problem which
-they present does not end with the discovery of their original use, for
-it is difficult to understand, first, where the multitudes can have come
-from which sufficed to man such considerable embankments; and, secondly,
-where provision, and above all water, can have been found for such
-garrisons; for though, as we have seen, the dew pans will always furnish
-water in certain amounts, they would never have sufficed for the large
-numbers which alone could hold from half-a-mile to a mile of rampart and
-ditch.</p>
-
-<p>Associated with these old camps are the tumuli to be found throughout
-the whole length of the Downs, especially upon their main ridge. But the
-reader who is interested in such things must be warned against accepting
-too uncritically the evidence of the Ordnance Survey upon this matter.
-In the majority of cases it is right, especially with regard to the very
-interesting group of tombs just beyond the kennels at Upwaltham, above
-the Chichester road where it crosses the Downs at Duncton Hill; but
-there is at least one case, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> there are probably others, where the
-heaps of material accumulated in the making of the roads have been
-erroneously ascribed to our prehistoric ancestors, and, if the present
-writer is not mistaken, there is an error of this kind marked upon the
-map close to the new London road which climbs Bury Hill on its way to
-cross the Downs at Whiteways Lodge.</p>
-
-<p>The complete isolation of these heights, their loneliness, and their
-wild charm, is enhanced by a line of towns and of villages especially
-dependent upon them and standing at their feet towards the south. The
-northern line of villages which lies just under their escarpment on the
-edge of the Weald, which we have described as being probably prehistoric
-sites, and which are connected by what has certainly been a prehistoric
-road, are not directly made by or dependent upon the Downs themselves.
-Their farmers are not usually large sheep farmers; their shepherds are
-few; their lives and their industries are those of the plain; their
-building materials are oak and plaster; their inhabitants but rarely
-climb the very steep hillsides immediately above them. The villages and
-towns to the <i>south</i>, on the contrary, owe their very existence to the
-Downs, and show in their every aspect the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_014" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_014.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_014.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>AMBERLEY VILLAGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SOUTHERN FORT-HILLS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">influence of the range which backs them and by which they live. From
-these villages proceed the principal flocks of sheep; in one of them,
-Findon, is the principal sheep fair of the country. Their plough lands
-are commonly poor, from the admixture of the last slopes of the chalk;
-their wealth is in flocks and in folds. In the Middle Ages they added to
-this the pannage which the beech mast of their woods afforded to swine.
-Right along from the Hampshire border to where the Downs fall into the
-sea beyond Brighton, from Goodwood that is, through Halnaecker, Eartham,
-Slindon, Arundel, Angmering, Lancing, to Rottingdeane&mdash;or rather to what
-Rottingdeane used to be before the æsthetes turned it pure Cockney
-twenty years ago&mdash;runs this row of little ancient places which are the
-typical Sussex homes of all.</p>
-
-<p>They grew up, as did those others of which we have spoken, where water
-could be found, and also, it may be presumed, where there was some local
-opportunity for defence now forgotten; the growth of Arundel certainly
-depended upon these two factors, to some extent probably that of Slindon
-(which centres round its great pond), and it may be supposed that of
-Lancing as well.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span></p><p>In their architecture these villages are, as it were, a physical
-outgrowth of the Downs. The oak, which one sees so commonly in the
-Weald, is but rarely present here; the roofs are of thatch, the walls of
-flint.</p>
-
-<p>Flint is, of course, the stone of the chalk, and the supply is unfailing
-because, by a curious phenomenon which has never been thoroughly
-explained, no matter how many flints are taken from the surface of the
-soil, others continue to “sweat up” through the chalk and to take the
-places of those that have been removed; there is never for very long a
-lack of surface flints in the fields adjoining these villages. There are
-some such villages in which every old building without exception, even
-the squire’s house and the church, are entirely built of flint, as are
-the boundary walls of the parks and of the farms. The material has,
-however (at least in the constructions of the last few centuries), one
-great defect, which is that the mortar does not bind it as strongly as
-it will bind brick or stone. This defect has been explained as being due
-to the extremely hard nature of the silex, for to bind material together
-it is essential that the binding flux, the mortar, should penetrate more
-or less into the pores of that which it binds, and for this reason brick
-and stone are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">FLINT-BUILDING</div>
-
-<p class="nind">wetted before being laid upon the mortar. Obviously no wetting can be of
-the least use where one is dealing with flint. Nevertheless, the old
-work of the country is singularly enduring. Of this a first-rate example
-is afforded to the traveller by the one great slab of wall which is all
-that remains of Bramber Castle. Here is a piece of masonry standing
-perpendicularly for perhaps fifty feet in height, not particularly
-thick, made entirely of flint, and yet standing upright in spite of
-sieges and artillery fire, the destruction of all its supports, and the
-passage of at least six hundred years.</p>
-
-<p>It would be for an expert to discuss what were the causes of this
-superior excellence in the older work; but it may be suggested by one
-who has looked closely into several specimens of mediæval
-flint-building, that two rules were almost invariably observed by our
-ancestors before the Reformation. The first was to preserve as carefully
-as possible the natural casing or “skin” of hardened chalk which
-surrounds every large flint, and to have none of the smooth stone
-surface showing except on the outside of the wall. The second was to use
-nothing but the fine sand which the county affords so plentifully in the
-mixing of the mortar. It may be, of course, that here, as in so many
-other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span> cases, the argument applies that we merely imagine the older work
-to be better because the best of it alone survives, but it is at least
-remarkable that hardly any flint work of the last three hundred years
-has come down without some distortion from the perpendicular.</p>
-
-<p>A very marked way of handling this stone is the cutting of the outer
-surface. This treatment is not peculiar to Sussex; it is to be found in
-East Anglia and in other parts of England where flints are common, but
-it is perhaps more general in Sussex than elsewhere, and may have
-originated in this county. The separate dressing of so many small stones
-is an expensive matter, and it is probably the very expense which is so
-incurred, or rather the great expenditure of energy connoted by the
-appearance of such work, which impresses and is designed to impress the
-spectator of it. Perhaps the most perfect specimen of a modern sort is
-the great house at West Deane; but all those who love their county are
-pleased to remark that in the new work at Arundel Castle this true
-Sussex style has been observed.</p>
-
-<p>There is but one further point to be remarked with regard to the Downs
-country, and that is the nature of the communication across the hills.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_015" style="width: 454px;">
-<a href="images/ill_015.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_015.jpg" width="454" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BRAMBER CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE PASSES</div>
-
-<p>It has already been said that the main river valleys were not much used
-for such communications; that there is no case of both sides of one of
-the river gaps being so used throughout the whole length of the county;
-and that there is but one case of a road following a river before modern
-times (the case of the old road from Bramber to Shoreham); while to this
-day (it will be remembered) the Arun valley is utilised by nothing but
-the railway.</p>
-
-<p>Crossings from north to south in Sussex, from the Weald to the
-sea-plain, are therefore invariably carried over the crest of the hills,
-and it is a matter for some astonishment that in a county so near
-London, and to reach a district so thickly populated and so wealthy as
-is the South Coast, the passages should be so few. With the exception of
-the Falmer Road from Lewes to Brighton (which can hardly be said to
-cross the main range), there are but five roads leading from the Weald
-to the sea-plain. The main Brighton Road which goes over Clayton Hill,
-the Worthing Road over Washington, the Arundel Road over Bury, the
-Chichester Road over Duncton, and the second Chichester Road over
-Cocking.</p>
-
-<p>The uniformity of type which distinguishes the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span> Downs causes all these
-roads to take much the same section: they choose a low saddle in the
-range (the Arundel Road is something of an exception here, for the
-saddle of Bury Hill is a high one); they rise up very sharply to the
-summit and then fall easily away towards the sea-plain; and though
-Cocking Hill is perhaps the shortest, Bury Hill the longest, of the
-five, it is an error to attempt, as do many who are insufficiently
-acquainted with the county, to avoid the steepness of the ascent by
-taking a detour. All or any one of these roads will try the traveller or
-the machine which he uses, and it must be remembered that these five are
-the only roads of any sort which cross the Downs. Many a track marked as
-crossing them is, when one comes to pursue it, nothing but a “ride” of
-grass in no way different from the rest of the grass of the Downs. All
-these roads have, however, one advantage attached to them, which is the
-astonishing view of the coastal plain which greets one from their
-summits, especially the view from Whiteways and the sudden and
-unexpected panorama at Benges, which is the second and highest summit of
-the Duncton Hill Road.</p>
-
-<p class="cdtts">. . . . . .</p>
-
-<p>This topographical division of our subject cannot</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_016" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_016.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_016.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>SOUTH HARTING</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX RIVERS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">be concluded without a more particular description of the Sussex rivers.
-Of these the first in importance and the largest is the Arun. It rises
-in a lake which is little known, and which is yet of great beauty, in
-St. Leonard’s Forest, runs as a small and very winding stream through
-Horsham and the northern Wealden parts of the county, and only begins to
-acquire the importance of a true river in the neighbourhood of Stopham.
-Here it is crossed by an old bridge which is itself among the most
-beautiful structures of the county, and which spans the river at one of
-its broadest and most secluded reaches. It is also the true dividing
-line between the Upper and the Lower Arun, because it is the extreme
-limit that the tide has ever reached even under the most favourable
-circumstances of high springs and drought. Just below Stopham there
-falls into the Arun a little river called the Rother, or Western Rother,
-to distinguish it from the Eastern Rother which is the principal stream
-at the other end of the county. This little river, which was canalised
-and usable for traffic until, like all the rest of our waterways, it was
-killed by the railroads, waters a most charming valley strung with towns
-and villages whose names we have already mentioned in another
-connection. At its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span> head is the millpond of Midhurst; it runs through
-the land of Cowdray (which is the great park of Midhurst), past Burton
-Rough, south of Petworth, where it turns one of its several mills, and
-on past Coates and Fittleworth, where it runs close to that inn which
-most English artists know, and the panels of whose coffee-room have been
-painted in landscapes by such various hands.</p>
-
-<p>When the Rother has thus fallen into the Arun, the two streams uniting
-run beneath the houses of Pulborough, and under its bridge, of which the
-reader will hear more when we come to speak of the historical
-development of the county; for this was the spot at which the great
-Roman road which united London with the coastal plain crossed the Arun,
-and the foundations of Pulborough are almost certainly Roman.</p>
-
-<p>From the little hill upon which this town stands one looks south across
-a great expanse of dead level meadow, flanked with sandy hills of pine,
-towards the dark line of the Downs. The river turns and makes for these,
-aiming at the gap which cuts them clean in two just south of Amberley.
-Often during the year these flats are covered with floods, and as the
-river is embanked and the entry of water through the meadows can be
-regulated by sluices,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_017" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_017.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_017.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE SWAN HOTEL, FITTLEWORTH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">ARUNDEL GAP</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the pasturage of these flooded levels is of great value. The stream
-rolls on, more and more turbid with the advent of the tide, spreads out
-into the willow thickets of Amberley Wildbrook where there is good
-shooting of snipe, runs on right under Bury, leaving Amberley Castle
-upon the left, passes beneath the causeway and the bridge at Houghton,
-and so enters the Arundel Gap. Here it is completely lonely. There are
-not even small footpaths by which the villages of this narrow valley can
-be reached from the north, though their names of “Southstoke” and
-“Northstoke” indicate an early passage of some sort, for this place-name
-throughout South England refers to the “staking” by which the passage of
-a river was made firm. Two new dykes, cutting off long corners, have
-been dug in the course of this valley, and they take the main stream,
-while the old river runs in a narrow and sluggish course by a long
-detour towards Burpham. The main channel, as it now exists, continues to
-keep to the right hand side of the valley, where it is continually
-overhung by the deep woods of Arundel Park; and at last, a little below
-the Blackrabbit Inn, one sees, jutting out like a spur from the bulk of
-the hills, the great mass of the Castle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The attitude of Arundel, standing above the river at this point, is
-hardly to be matched by any of the river towns of England. It stands up
-on its steep bank looking right down upon the tidal stream and towards
-the sea. The houses are natural to the place (the hideous new
-experiments upon the further bank are hidden from the river), and all
-the roofs are either old or at least consonant to the landscape, while
-the situation chosen for St. Philip’s Church, and its architecture,
-happen by an accident that is almost unknown in modern work, to be
-exactly suited to the landscape of which it forms the crown, and to
-balance the background of the Castle and the Keep.</p>
-
-<p>Below the bridge at Arundel the Arun becomes a purely maritime river. It
-runs in a deep tidal channel with salt meadows upon either side, and
-with a very violent tide of great height scouring between its
-embankments. There are no buildings directly upon its sides save one
-poor lonely inn and church at Ford, and in seven miles it reaches the
-sea at Littlehampton, pouring into the Channel over one of the
-shallowest and most dangerous bars upon this coast.</p>
-
-<p>The other rivers merit a much briefer attention.</p>
-
-<p>The Adur is but a collection of very small</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_018" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_018.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_018.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ARUNDEL CASTLE (EVENING)</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE ADUR</div>
-
-<p class="nind">streams which meet in the water meadows above Henfield, where it becomes
-a broad ditch; it cannot be called a true river until it is close upon
-the hill of Bramber within a few miles of the sea. It is, in fact, a
-sort of miniature Arun, but its effect in history has been almost as
-great as that of the larger river, as we shall see farther on, for it
-also has pierced its own gap through the Downs, and this gap has been,
-like Arundel, from the earliest times one of the avenues of invasion,
-and therefore one of the strong places for defence. It runs through this
-gap, past two delightful and almost unknown relics of mediæval England,
-parishes that have decayed until they are merely small chapels attached
-to lonely farms (their names are Coombes and Buttolphs), and comes to
-where its mouth used to be, at old Shoreham, where was a Roman
-landing-place, and where the Saxons are said first to have landed also.
-But the river has built up between itself and the sea a great beach of
-shingle. Its mouth has gone travelling farther and farther down along
-the coast, and, had not modern work arrested this process, there
-probably would have happened to Shoreham what has happened to Orford
-upon the East Coast. For Orford was also once a great mediæval harbour,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span>
-the mouth of which has drifted farther and farther off and silted up as
-it travelled.</p>
-
-<p>The Adur will perhaps cut its largest figure in literature from the fact
-that it has been the occasion of one of the most ridiculous pieces of
-pedantry which even modern archæology has fallen into. A statement has
-been made (it has been taken seriously in our universities) that the
-Adur had no name until about 200 years ago, that the name it now bears
-was given it by Camden the historian, and that the Sussex peasants took
-the title of their river humbly from a writer of books, and have
-continued to use an artificial and foreign word! If anything were
-required to prove that a contention of this sort was nonsense it would
-be enough to point out that the word Adur is, like so many of our Sussex
-names, Celtic in its origin, and means, like so many Celtic names for
-rivers, “the water”; it is the same as the southern French name Adour.</p>
-
-<p>The third river, the Ouse, also bears a Celtic name. It is somewhat
-larger than the Adur, but considerably smaller than the Arun. Like the
-Adur it flows from insignificant streams until it gets to its water
-meadows near Lewes, and also like the Adur it has cut its gap through
-the Downs,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_019" style="width: 457px;">
-<a href="images/ill_019.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_019.jpg" width="457" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE TOWN CLOCK, STEYNING</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE OUSE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">and has therefore created a point of high strategical importance in the
-fortified hill of Lewes. But, unlike the Adur, the maritime portion of
-its course is of some length, and during these eight miles or so between
-Lewes and the mouth at Newhaven it rather resembles the lower part of
-the Arun. It has the same treeless, marshy sides, highly embanked for
-the formation of water meadows, the same strong, scouring tide, the same
-violent current, but, luckily for the London, Brighton, and South Coast
-Railway, not the same bar. The entry at Newhaven is particularly easy,
-the best in the county, and would be fairly easy even without the
-dredging that is carried on, or the breakwater that defends it from the
-south-west.</p>
-
-<p>These three rivers between them form the main hydrographical features of
-the centre of the county; their three harbours standing at almost
-exactly regular intervals are the sole entries to the west and middle of
-Sussex; the three gaps in the Downs behind those harbours are the three
-gates to South England from the sea; the three castles that defend those
-gaps complete the significance of the series.</p>
-
-<p>The Cuckmere is but a very small stream coming out just beyond Newhaven
-with Seaford at its mouth, and would be scarcely worth mentioning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span> were
-it not for the fact that, like its larger sisters, it shows that
-singular capacity for cutting right down through the chalk hills and
-making a gap through which it can pass to the sea.</p>
-
-<p>This feature, which is common to the Sussex rivers, is also discovered
-in the streams which cross the northern chalk range into the Thames
-valley. These also are three in number&mdash;the Wey, the Mole, and the
-Darent. And it is conjectured by scientists that these three rivers,
-like those other three in Sussex, the Arun, the Adur, and the Ouse, run
-independent of the chalk hills, and cut through them from the following
-cause: the Wealden heights, the forest ridge that is, in which all six
-take their rise, is conceived to be geologically much older than the
-North or the South Downs, and it is presumed that the rivers had already
-formed their valleys, and were already beginning to erode the surface of
-the land before the chalk hills began to arise, so that as the Downs
-gradually rose the little rivers continued their sawing, and kept to
-their original level while the great heaps of white shell which were
-building up our hills rose upon either side of their valleys. This
-theory, unfortunately, like most scientific theories, and especially
-geological ones, is traversed by another theory equally</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_020" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_020.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_020.jpg" width="600" height="360" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE ROTHER AT FITTLEWORTH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE EASTERN ROTHER</div>
-
-<p class="nind">reputable and stoutly maintained by precisely the same authorities, to
-wit, that the shells of which the Chalk Downs are composed are those of
-marine animals and were laid down under the sea. If this was the case it
-is impossible to see how the little rivers can have continued their
-erosion while the chalk hills were rising upon either side, for no
-rivers run along the bottom of the sea. The fact is that this, like
-ninety-nine out of a hundred other geological theses, reposes upon mere
-guesswork; we have no evidence worth calling evidence to tell us how the
-contours of the land were moulded.</p>
-
-<p>The last of the Sussex rivers stands quite outside the scheme of those
-with which we have been hitherto dealing. It is the Eastern Rother,
-which rises, indeed, on the same Wealden heights as the others, but does
-not encounter the chalk hills, for these come to an end west of it in
-the cliff of Beachy Head. The Eastern Rother runs, therefore, not
-through a gap but a wide plain, which is marked off on the coast-line by
-the flats of the marshes before Dunge Ness.</p>
-
-<p>This little river nourishes no considerable town, but a great number of
-very charming villages stand either upon it or above it; others also
-less<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> charming, as for instance the somewhat theatrical village of
-Burwash, whose old church tower, avenue of trees, and Georgian houses,
-have bred a crop of red-brick villas.</p>
-
-<p>Robertsbridge, however, is a paradise for any one, and contains or did
-contain in the cellars of its principal inn, the George, some of the
-best port at its price to be found in England. Within the drainage area
-of this river also stands (upon the Brede, a tributary) the height which
-was known until the Norman invasion as “Hastings Plain,” but has, since
-the great conflict, supported the abbey and the village of Battle. The
-harbour mouth of this river is the town of Rye, a haven which it is
-still possible to make, though with difficulty, but which was until
-quite the last few generations a trading-place of importance.</p>
-
-<p>With the mention of the Eastern Rother our survey of the river system of
-Sussex must close, for, though tributaries of the Wey rise within the
-political boundaries of the county, while the source of the Mole is also
-within those boundaries, their systems properly belong to the Thames
-valley and to Surrey.</p>
-
-<p>We have now some idea of the general configuration of the county, of the
-nature of its</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_021" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_021.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_021.jpg" width="600" height="377" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>RYE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">GENERAL VIEW OF THE COUNTY</div>
-
-<p class="nind">landscape and its soil, and of the relief upon which it is built. The
-reader may perhaps grasp in one glance the Wealden heights running along
-the northern horizon, the wide rolling belt of the clay weald between
-those heights and the Downs broken here and there by rocks and
-sandstone, patched with pines, the Downs themselves running in one vast
-wall for their fifty or sixty miles of stretch from the Hampshire border
-to Beachy Head, and the coastal plain to the south of them. There have
-also been indicated in this first part of the book, though briefly, the
-various types of towns and villages and buildings which these four belts
-produce; it has been shown how the parallelism of all the four tilts
-somewhat from the north-west to the south-east, so that all four end at
-last upon the sea; and it has been shown how the rivers run from the
-Weald, cut right through the Downs, and form along the coast the main
-harbours of the county.</p>
-
-<p>With such a general plan before us we can go on to speak more
-particularly of the history upon which modern Sussex reposes, and to
-describe in more detail the towns and the sites connected with the story
-of this countryside: of Chichester which was its spiritual capital;
-Arundel, Bramber, and Lewes, which were its defences; Midhurst,
-Pet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span>worth, Pulborough, Horsham, Steyning, Uckfield, and the rest, which
-are still its Wealden market towns; its six ancient harbours, and the
-recent change which more numerous roads and more rapid methods of
-locomotion have begun to bring upon the county, not wholly for its
-good.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_022" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_022.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_022.jpg" width="600" height="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CHURCH STREET, STEYNING</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II<br /><br />
-THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF SUSSEX</h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> pre-history of Sussex is unknown. The county does not lie (as a
-first glance at the map might suggest) upon the main track between the
-metallic districts of the West of England and the Straits of Dover. That
-track was forced north by the indent of Southampton Water, and pursued
-its way, perhaps originally through Salisbury Plain, ultimately through
-Winchester, and so by Farnham, where it struck and followed the North
-Downs to Canterbury, which was the common centre for the ports of the
-Kentish coast. Sussex, moreover, was not only off this main prehistoric
-trade route, but also, as has been previously explained in the first
-portion of this book, was cut off to some extent on the north by the
-Weald, and to the east and to the west by Romney Marsh and Chichester
-Harbour respectively.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>We may, therefore, presume that before the advent of the Romans the
-district was a very isolated and perhaps a very backward piece of
-Britain. Convenient as were its harbours, and comparatively short as was
-the trajectory from the opposite coast, it suffered from what handicaps
-all such coast lines, that is, the absence of a wealthy hinterland.
-London was more easily made through Kent or by sailing up the estuary of
-the Thames, and the great roads to the north which converged on London
-were better arrived at through Kent and by way of the Watling Street
-than through Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>All we can positively say is that the western part of the county was
-presumably inhabited by a tribe called the Regni, whose capital was, we
-may believe, upon the site of Chichester. For the rest all is
-conjecture.</p>
-
-<p>It is equally true that we have no direct history of Sussex during the
-400 years of the Roman occupation. But here, as is the case almost
-everywhere in England, the material evidences of Rome and of the vast
-and prosperous civilisation which she founded in the island, are in
-number quite out of proportion with the meagre documents that speak of
-her occupation. The whole soil of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE ROMAN BASIS</div>
-
-<p>England is strewn thickly with the relics of Rome; and the reader will
-perhaps pardon a digression on a matter of such historical importance,
-because, though it does not concern Sussex alone, it does concern the
-history of England in general very much, and therefore the history of
-Sussex in particular. Nor can any one understand an English countryside
-unless he has already understood what the Romans did for this province
-of theirs, Britain.</p>
-
-<p>There has arisen in the last two generations a school which is now
-weakening, but which has already had a very ill effect upon the general
-comprehension of European history. This school was German in its origin,
-meticulous in its methods, feeble in its historic judgment, and very
-strongly influenced by the bias of race and religion. It attempted to
-establish the thesis that the effect of Rome upon Europe had been
-exaggerated, and that the North especially had been but little moulded
-by the Latin order. This was partly true in the case of Northern
-Germany, for though the German civilisation is a Latin civilisation, yet
-it is and remains Latin only in the second degree. German thought,
-building, law, religion, and the rest are Latin, or they are nothing;
-but they are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> imported Latin. They are not of that Latinity which grows
-up and lives and takes root in the soil. There lies behind them a sort
-of vague thing which has never taken form, never is expressed, but
-evidently colours all North German life and makes it different from the
-life of Southern, Western, and civilised Europe; for Rome never occupied
-the Baltic plain.</p>
-
-<p>But though this insufficient influence of Rome be obviously true with
-regard to Northern Germany, whose poor soil and shallow harbours had
-never tempted the Roman eagles, it is profoundly untrue of Britain. By
-far the greater part of our historical towns can be proved to be Roman
-in origin, and it is to be presumed that of the remainder most will
-ultimately furnish, or at least could furnish, proofs of a similar
-foundation. But though Britain was thoroughly kneaded into the stuff of
-the Empire, the accidents of the barbarian wars lend arguments to those
-who would minimise the vast effect of her early civilisation upon her
-subsequent history.</p>
-
-<p>For the continuity of Roman speech and of the civilisation of the Empire
-was sharply broken in Britain by the invasion (gradual, but very
-disastrous) of the North Sea pirates,&mdash;raids which</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_023" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_023.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_023.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FARMHOUSE, LEYS GREEN</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SAXON RAIDS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">exercised an increasing pressure throughout the end of the fourth
-century, and which in the middle of the fifth began to triumph over the
-resistance of the native population. How far the effect of these raids
-was constructive, the foundation of a race, and how far merely
-destructive, the marring of a social order, we will discuss later; it is
-sufficient for the moment to point out that they prevented us, when we
-re-entered civilisation, from harking back with certitude to our origins
-as Gaul or the Rhine or Spain could to theirs. We have, indeed, our
-hagiographers, but they are not, like the hagiographers of the
-Continent, in direct connection with the Fathers of the Church and with
-the Imperial centre. We had, indeed, a flourishing monastic system, but
-we could not say of it as could Gaul, that it went right up to the time
-of Julian the Apostate, derived from St. Martin, and was linked with the
-memory of a once strong and ordered state. There is, therefore, more
-room for discussion and for denial of the Roman influence in Britain
-than in any other province of the Empire; more even than in Africa,
-where the complete and sudden wiping out of the Roman genius by the
-Mahommedan religion has fossilised, as it were (and therefore
-preserved), enormous evidences of Roman activity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>With the darkness of the Saxon invasions to aid them, authorities of
-considerable weight have been found to advance such propositions as that
-the total population of Roman Britain amounted to but little more than a
-million souls; that the continuity of London, York, Leicester, and the
-other original cities is doubtful, and so forth. There is nothing so
-fantastic but it has had a home for a short space among the historians
-of our universities, so long as the phantasy was in opposition to the
-general spirit of Europe and to the grandeur of the Roman name.</p>
-
-<p>It is best for a modern reader to forget these vagaries, and to found
-himself upon the constant judgment of permanent historical work&mdash;upon
-the common sense, as it were, of Europe as we receive it handed on
-through the historical traditions of the Middle Ages, and as we see it
-developing since the renaissance of learning in the sixteenth century.
-We can believe that Roman Britain, though we do not know its exact
-population, was very densely populated (Gibbon, the best authority,
-perhaps, puts it highest), and that, at least towards the close of the
-third century, it was full of flourishing towns, and intersected
-everywhere by great military roads; it was peaceable, wealthy, and a
-very close part of the Roman unity.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_024" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_024.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_024.jpg" width="600" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>NEAR PEVENSEY</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE ROMAN TOWNS</div>
-
-<p>Sussex was no exception to this rule. Small as was the extent of its
-then habitable or thickly-populated part (virtually confined to the
-coast-plain, for the Downs could not be inhabited, the villages of their
-foot-hills were few, and the belt between them and the Weald was
-difficult of access), small as was that portion, it contained two
-considerable towns&mdash;Anderida and Regnum. Anderida lay upon the site of
-Pevensey, Regnum is Chichester. What other settlements it had of a
-strictly Roman nature, as distinguished from the Celtic villages and the
-isolated farms held both by Celtic and by Roman masters, we cannot tell.
-The Roman remains of Lewes prove it (as does its site) to have been a
-place of importance since the beginning of history, but we cannot
-identify it with certitude. Arundel, a place obviously as old, has
-hitherto furnished no Roman relics. It is possible that Bramber was
-fortified; and it is fairly certain, though it is not positive history,
-that the mouth of the old estuary at Shoreham was the Portus Adurni.
-More than this we cannot say.</p>
-
-<p>But there is contained in Sussex a further and more striking evidence of
-the power of Rome than even the line of the wall at Chichester or the
-ruins of Anderida. This is to be found in the great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span> track of the Stane
-Street, the Roman road which led from the East Gate of Chichester to
-London, and of which so large a part is in actual use to-day.</p>
-
-<p>This great monument of our past is equalled by little else in our island
-as a dramatic witness of the source from which we spring. The Roman wall
-between Tyne and Solway has afforded much more food for scholarship, and
-is in places of a more active effect upon the eye, but it does not
-appear before us as does the Stane Street, possessed of a constant
-historic use, and explaining the development of a whole district.</p>
-
-<p>This military way can be traced, with a few gaps, for a space of fifty
-miles and more; from the eastern gate of Chichester to the neighbourhood
-of Epsom, where it passes just between Lord Rosebery’s house and the
-race-course, having crossed the Surrey border in the neighbourhood of
-Ockley, and pursued its way through Dorking churchyard across Burford
-Bridge, through the gardens of Juniper Hall, and so northwards and
-eastwards.</p>
-
-<p>The line of it in Sussex is clear to any one who glances at an Ordnance
-map. It is a hard road over the first mile on leaving Chichester. At the
-village of West Hampnet, some unknown cause in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE STANE STREET</div>
-
-<p class="nind">remote past has diverted it, and the original line is lost in the fields
-behind the workhouse of the place; but within another mile it once more
-coincides with the present high road and goes straight for the Downs.
-Close upon it was founded the Abbey of Boxgrove which, like Hyde and
-Westminster and so many others, owed its site to the presence of a great
-national way. It goes on over the shoulder of Halnacker Hill, then
-plunges through the north wood where it is no longer traceable as a
-road, but as a high ridge for several miles. It emerges upon the open
-grass of the Downs at Gumber Farm, where it still marks a division
-between ancient properties and modern fields. It then climbs down the
-escarpment of the hills upon the north side in a great curve which has
-given its name to the farm of Cold Harbour,&mdash;for the word Cold harbour,
-which so frequently occurs in English topography, is probably derived
-from the Latin “Curbare,” and marks the points where the usually dead
-straight line of the Roman road was compelled for some local reason to
-adopt a curve.</p>
-
-<p>Immediately at the foot of this curve is to be found the little village
-of Bignor, which contains one of the most perfect Roman pavements in
-England, and which has been conjectured to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span> the “Ad Decimam”&mdash;the
-tenth milestone from Chichester. It may be the villa of a private estate
-or (more probably) the military residence of a small garrison. From this
-point to Pulborough Bridge the track of the road is conjectural, with
-the exception of a few stretches, where, even to-day, the discoloration
-of the earth in the ploughed fields marks the old line in the Stane
-Street. At Hardham, however, just before it reaches the marshes of the
-Arun, its passage is clearly discernible due east of a still defined
-camp which stands in between Petworth branch line and the main line of
-the L.B.S.C.R., just before their junction. Immediately beyond, on the
-farther side, stood the old Priory of Hardham which, like Boxgrove, must
-have owed its site to the neighbourhood of the way.</p>
-
-<p>The remaining mile over the marshes to Pulboro’ Bridge is, of course,
-absolutely lost. It is a universal rule of topography throughout
-Britain, that where a Roman causeway crossed a marsh, it has been lost
-in the barbaric centuries by a slow process of sinking into the soft
-soil below. But the direction which the Stane Street must have followed
-when the causeway existed is not difficult to determine; it is to be
-decided by a consideration which</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_025" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_025.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_025.jpg" width="600" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>LYCH GATE, PULBOROUGH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE STANE STREET</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the historians of the county have not hitherto remarked. It is this. If
-one stands upon the height of Gumber above Cold Harbour Hill and notes
-the direction of the Stane Street as it crosses the Downs, one finds it
-pointing straight at Pulborough Bridge. Or again, if one lays a ruler
-along the line of the Stane Street upon an Ordnance map so as to cover
-the section between Halnacker and Gumber, the prolongation of that line
-strikes to within a yard or two of Pulborough Bridge. It is, therefore,
-as certain as anything can be that the road made for this point, that
-the Roman causeway across the marsh ran directly from Hardham to the
-bridge, and that the Arun was crossed sixteen hundred years ago at the
-same place as it is to-day.</p>
-
-<p>The point though new can hardly be questioned. Roads of this sort were
-necessarily laid down by a method of “sighting” from one distant point
-of the horizon to the other. In no other way could their straightness be
-achieved, and there can be no doubt that the first surveyor, in laying
-down the track from the south to the north side of the Downs, was guided
-by signals from the crest of the ridge; the line was given him by
-watchers upon the summit who could observe the parties on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span> southern
-slope below and the distant Arun to the north, and who had already
-determined from that vantage place the point at which the river could be
-most easily crossed.</p>
-
-<p>At Pulborough Bridge the Stane Street again becomes a hard road, and
-with such slight deviations as the long centuries of its history have
-caused at Adversane and Parbook (they never leave the straight by so
-much as fifty yards) it takes its way right through the heart of the
-county. Billingshurst stands upon it, breaking its exact line by a
-growth of little encroaching freeholds. It does not cease to be a county
-road for many miles farther; it arrives at Five Oaks Green, there enters
-the heart of the Weald, where even to this day there are but very few
-houses; it dwindles to a lane, and so reaches its second crossing of the
-Arun at Alfordean Bridge, where traces of Roman fortification still
-appear. The remaining two and a half miles of its course through the
-county are either lost under the plough, overgrown in thickets (such as
-“Roman’s Wood”), or preserved as stretches of foot-path. It is here a
-deserted track, and enters Surrey at last near Ruckman’s Farm.</p>
-
-<p>There may have been other Roman roads of the regular and military sort
-piercing the county.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_026" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_026.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_026.jpg" width="600" height="393" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>PULBOROUGH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">OTHER ROMAN WAYS</div>
-
-<p>Some have maintained that one such road ran from the mouth of the Adur
-up to London, and another from Pevensey through Mayfield also to London.
-It is absolutely certain that in the Roman time there must have been
-roads following some such tracks: evidences of one, at least, have been
-discovered at Haywards Heath and at Reigate, while it is a fair
-inference that the march of William the Conqueror from Pevensey through
-Hastings up on to Hastings Plain, where he fought his great battle, was
-made along an ancient way. But it may be doubted whether any of the
-other lines of communication in Sussex were of a true military nature,
-or possessed the permanence of what we usually call a Roman road. At any
-rate, they have left no evidences which warrant our asserting that they
-were ever of the same nature as the great Stane Street.</p>
-
-<p>We know one or two more things about Roman Sussex. We know that the
-industry of the Eastern Weald was an iron industry. We may be fairly
-certain that there must have been a flourishing agriculture along the
-sea-plain to maintain its great towns; but we know nothing more until we
-enter with the Saxon invasions, the beginning of the second phase in the
-history of the county.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>These invasions are themselves mythical in their details. Though the
-main fact of their success at the eastern and southern coast-line is
-historical beyond dispute their story reposes upon legends, which, as
-the reader need hardly be reminded, are not trustworthy. From the oral
-traditions of a very barbarous people possessed of hardly any continuous
-institutions, split up into dozens of little tribes which differed from
-each other in local patois, and were possessed of no unity or national
-spirit, the tales of the pirate raids were handed on till at last they
-were written down hundreds of years after, when civilisation had once
-more penetrated into the southern and eastern part of the island, and a
-sort of rude literature could re-arise to give them for what they were
-worth. A traditional and probably mythical being, called in the legend
-“Aella,” is reported to have effected the first regular landing upon the
-Sussex coast towards the beginning of the sixth century, or rather to
-have turned into a permanent settlement those temporary raids which had
-been common for a century and more before his time. The feature of this
-invasion which most powerfully struck the barbaric imagination was the
-fall of Anderida. So violent was the effect produced upon the victims
-and their</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_027" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_027.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_027.jpg" width="600" height="409" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HARTFIELD&mdash;THE INN</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE BREAK-DOWN OF ROME</div>
-
-<p class="nind">despoilers, that the Saxon Chronicle some centuries later records a
-tradition to the effect that not one of its inhabitants was left alive
-when the city was stormed. This, of course, is no truer than any other
-history of the sort; but it is valuable as pointing to the violence of
-the struggle. Anderida was, moreover, one of the very few cities of
-Europe where, in the break-down of the Roman Empire, municipal life was
-actually destroyed. For we know by the evidence of an eye-witness (which
-is a very different thing from legend), that after so comparatively
-short a lapse of time as two hundred years from the time of the
-invasion, the ruined walls were still standing and the place was
-uninhabited.</p>
-
-<p>What form the disaster took after this date we cannot tell; but we can
-derive some idea of its severity from the break-down of the native
-language. We know that, mixed with the Celtic roots of Sussex
-place-names, with the purely Celtic names of its main rivers, with the
-Celtic and possibly Roman names of its villages, there is a Teutonic
-admixture so welded in with the rest as to be inseparable from it.
-Billingshurst, for example, springs presumably from a Celtic source, and
-records, like Billingsgate, the worship of Belinus. But this “hurst,”
-like all the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span> “hursts” up and down the south of England, is almost
-certainly a Teutonic ending.</p>
-
-<p>It is to be noted that Teutonic terminations are particularly noticeable
-along the coast itself, from whence the invasion of the pirates came.
-Hastings is entirely an un-Latin and un-Celtic name. So is Selsea. So is
-Shoreham. Half the names along the Sussex coast must be purely Teutonic;
-and even of the remainder one cannot be sure how much of their framework
-has survived since the days before the pirate invasion. Thus “ness” (as
-in Dungeness) may be Northern, but it may also be Latin.</p>
-
-<p>We can, again, be certain of the thoroughness of the cataclysm by the
-effect of the invasion upon the philosophy of the place. In Sussex,
-whatever may have happened elsewhere, there was a complete disappearance
-of the Christian religion. The raids must have been many and severe, and
-the last permanent settlement of the barbarians successful, to have
-produced such a result. For Britain round about the year 500 was
-obviously as Christian as any other province, and to have destroyed
-Christianity in the period which saw St. Eligius and Dagobert in their
-full power beyond the narrow English Channel necessarily means that the
-attack was very powerful and very ruthless.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_028" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_028.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_028.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>EWHURST</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">EXTINCTION OF CHRISTIANITY</div>
-
-<p>It is of particular importance to insist upon the Christianity of
-<i>Sussex</i> in this respect. For, as we consider the south of England,
-which was the more civilised portion of the island, we remark that in
-Devonshire and Cornwall Christianity made a stand which maintained a
-continuity of the faith. In Kent, again, there was very probably a relic
-of Christianity. A Christian queen was upon the throne there a hundred
-years before the neighbouring county had so much as heard of the gospel.
-A Christian church was in existence in Canterbury before Augustine
-landed&mdash;though whether it had survived from Roman times we cannot tell;
-nor do we know the fate of the central district of Hampshire and
-Dorsetshire, except that we may presume that the Christian religion and
-the tradition of civilisation could hardly have been quite destroyed
-upon the borders of the Christian Severn valley and of the Christian
-Damnonian peninsula, to which were so continually flowing the influences
-of Christian Brittany and Christian Ireland and Christian Wales. In
-Sussex, therefore, alone of the southern counties, we may state it as
-historically certain that civilisation was totally destroyed, and that
-the faith which is the central expression of civilisation was stamped
-out.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Another line of argument leads to the same conclusion. It is that drawn
-from the story of St. Wilfrid. In this story we see St. Wilfrid in his
-exile landing in Sussex, and finding the barbarians fallen to so low an
-ebb that they had even lost the craft of fishing. The Roman arts had, of
-course, long ago disappeared. It is quite possible that men had here
-even forgotten how to plough in the general break-down which followed
-the coming of the pirates. At any rate there was a famine when St.
-Wilfrid came. St. Wilfred taught them how to make nets, and there
-followed what always follows when savages come across civilisation (if
-that civilisation is beneficent)&mdash;the savages accepted it <i>en bloc</i>,
-customs, faith, and all; even in their fragmentary records they talk
-henceforth of “Ides” and “Kalends.” They made St. Wilfred their bishop,
-and he established his see (possibly from a vague tradition of the Roman
-times) at Selsea.</p>
-
-<p>The place in which he built his first cathedral is now perhaps under the
-sea. The Roman buildings and the establishments of the city were already
-in danger, when, in the eleventh century, the see was removed to the
-neighbouring town of Chichester, where it remained in a continuous
-tradition which lasted till the Reformation. The district of Selsea<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SELSEA</div>
-
-<p class="nind">lingered on as a batch of islands, flooded at high tide, until
-comparatively recent times. It is said that even as late as the Tudors
-the patch now known as “The Park” was really a park, and that the rapid
-current known as the Looe stream corresponded to a ravine in that royal
-domain. At any rate the whole place is to-day a mass of tangled rocks
-and shallows, mixed up with which we may presume are the ruins of the
-Roman and early Saxon buildings. It is known as the “Owers,” and there
-stands upon it a lighthouse which is one of the principal marks of the
-Sussex coast; nor can any ships of considerable burthen go between these
-rocks and the shore. The great liners on their way to Southampton all
-pass outside: the fishing-boats and coasting-vessels can take the
-shorter inner passage, if they have a tide with them, through the Looe
-stream.</p>
-
-<p>The remaining history of Sussex until the advent of the Normans is
-obscure and meagre. Here, as in the rest of England, the barbarism of
-the Dark Ages was tempered, of course, by the existence of the historic
-and organised machinery of the Catholic Church, but they remained
-barbaric, and nowhere more barbaric than in Britain. The wound of the
-Saxon invasion was never really<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span> healed. There are those who maintain
-that we feel its effects to this day.</p>
-
-<p>From the period of the conversion which may roughly be said to have
-occupied the last twenty years of the seventh century, right away down
-to the tenth, with its violent internal convulsions ending in the Danish
-conquest, Sussex almost disappears from history. It is true to say that
-in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle of this period we hear more of Gaul than we
-do of the English county. It must have been singularly free from the
-storm of the Danish invasions until close upon the end of the ninth
-century, when we get the landing of Hasting and his march up the valley
-of the Rother. But even that raid failed, for Alfred had already
-restored peace to the south of England.</p>
-
-<p>It is at this period also that we begin to have historical evidence of
-the existence of the fortified places of Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>The opportunities afforded by Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, and the rest must
-have been recognised from prehistoric times. There also existed from
-prehistoric times the great entrenchments on the Downs. But it is not
-until the close of the ninth and beginning of the tenth centuries that
-we get documentary proofs of the way in which these</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_029" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_029.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_029.jpg" width="600" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MALLING MILL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE STRATEGIC POINTS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">advantages were seized. Thus we know from Alfred’s will that at the
-beginning of the tenth century Arundel was already fortified and already
-a king’s castle.</p>
-
-<p>Of the smaller projecting spur of Lewes, similarly defended by marshes
-and similarly easy to isolate by a ditch across the narrow neck which
-connects it with the Downs, we have not indeed direct evidence so early.
-But several smaller places dependent upon it and in its neighbourhood
-are mentioned at the same time; and a little later, under Athelstan, the
-town itself is mentioned with this particular mark, that of the four
-Sussex mints (which were here and at Hastings and at Chichester) two
-were permitted to be established in Lewes, numbers which point to its
-being, even at that early date, the recognised capital of the whole
-county.</p>
-
-<p>Bramber, we may be certain from the name, though documents are lacking,
-was fortified at least as early as this period.</p>
-
-<p>In a word, all the gaps of the Downs were held in a military fashion,
-and had entered into the scheme of the county as strongholds, guarding
-the river passes for one hundred and fifty or one hundred and seventy
-years before they fell into the hands of the Norman invaders. But of
-the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span> rest of the development of the county in Saxon times we know so
-very little that even conjecture is hardly worth our while. The
-place-names are all that indicate to us what Saxon foundation the towns
-and villages of the Weald may have received. Their gradual development,
-the granting of their charters, and the documentary proof of their
-existence and commercial importance we do not get until after the
-Conquest. These proofs we shall be able the better to examine when we
-come to that event, and especially when we analyse the way in which the
-rape of Bramber grew up under the leadership of the Warrens.</p>
-
-<p>The end of the barbaric period in the reign of Edward the Confessor, and
-its enormous effect upon the future of England, are, however, associated
-with the county; and the complete obscurity within which it had lain for
-so many generations is partially compensated for by the name of Godwin.
-That great earl, with his strength, his vices, and his ambitions, was
-altogether a Sussex man. He was the son of Wulnoth, a knight of the
-South Saxons.</p>
-
-<p>It has sometimes been regretted that feudalism in England did not follow
-the line which it did on the Continent, and that the various districts
-of England were not coalesced under great overlords,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_030" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_030.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_030.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FISHBOURNE MILL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">GODWIN</div>
-
-<p class="nind">so as to form true provinces and thus to intensify the life of the
-nation. These regrets may or may not be just, but Godwin very nearly
-succeeded in satisfying that ideal. He was by far the greatest man in
-Sussex, as he was in England. He held nearly sixty manors, and that not
-merely in a technical sense and for a merely military reason, as did the
-great overlords immediately later under the Conqueror hold manors in yet
-larger numbers, but actually (we may presume) and with a true lordship.
-Among them are many names to be recognised to-day. There is Beeding
-which is under the Downs, beyond Bramber, a place called with fine irony
-Upper Beeding; it lies in a hollow, damp all the year round, while Lower
-Beeding is set upon a high hill. There is Climping, the seaside village
-near Little Hampton, of which little now remains. There is Rottingdean,
-Brighton itself, Fulking, Salescombe, Wiston (which is the master of
-Chactonbury), and Ashington and Washington close by. Godwin, indeed, for
-his economic power reposed upon Sussex, and it is curious that his
-connection with the county has been so little emphasised by historians.</p>
-
-<p>With the Norman Conquest, Sussex, like the rest of England, re-enters
-history. And that in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span> a peculiar manner, for, as has been seen, of all
-the districts of England, Sussex had suffered the deepest eclipse during
-the barbaric period, and by the peculiar fact that the invasion of
-civilisation came from Normandy, was most advantaged in the period
-immediately following. The contrast was abrupt and striking. Here was a
-district of which, as we have seen, practically no mention is made
-between the fall of the Roman power and the last efforts of Godwin. It
-is cut off from the rest of England by the Andred’s Weald. The only
-considerable story in connection with it is that of its conversion. It
-can boast no great monasteries founded in that time, as all the rest of
-England can boast; it can show no great military leader, nor even the
-scene of any great military disaster, for Ockley itself was beyond its
-borders. The advent of the last invaders, but invaders this time who
-bring with them constructive power and the full European tradition, is
-from the shore immediately opposing its own. A short day’s sail away
-there ran the coast of Normandy, where a race of Gallo-Romans, with a
-slight but transforming admixture of Scandinavian blood, were chafing
-under their superabundant energy. Already for nearly a century a great
-intercourse must have</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_031" style="width: 458px;">
-<a href="images/ill_031.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_031.jpg" width="458" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ST. MARY’S CHURCH, RYE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE NORMAN INVASION</div>
-
-<p class="nind">existed between the harbours to the north and the south of the Channel.
-It was from Bosham that Harold sailed; the Court of Edward had been full
-of Normans, and one has but to cross the Channel in a little boat to see
-how the advance of the arts after the darkness of the ninth century must
-have increased communication between Normandy and the shores of Sussex.
-A man will run in a five tonner from Shoreham to Dieppe close hauled
-into a fresh south-westerly wind between the morning and the evening of
-a summer’s day; he will run from Dieppe into Rye with such a wind on his
-quarter during the daylight of almost any day in the year, except
-perhaps in the mid-winter season.</p>
-
-<p>With such a wind William sailed from St. Valery in the autumn of 1066.
-He landed at Pevensey. He marched along the coast to Hastings, and then
-struck up north and a little east for four or five miles to where the
-Saxon force lay on the defensive upon a rounded height above the valley
-of the Brede, called “Hastings Plain.”</p>
-
-<p>A pedantic discussion, into which we need not enter, has waged round the
-exact name of the spot where the battle was fought. One of the principal
-authorities for the history of the battle (but not a contemporary
-authority) calls it several times<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span> “Senlac.” It is just possible that he
-was mis-spelling some local name. Halnacker is similarly mis-spelt
-“Hanac” in the title deeds of Boxgrove Abbey. But the name as it stands
-is a Gascon name, and in all probability was given to some portion of
-the land long after the battle because a Gascon gentleman had acquired
-manorial rights there. Every other authority alludes to it as Hastings,
-or Hastings Plain, and every Sussex man can see why, for there is
-nothing commoner in the country than the calling of one of the uplands
-by the name of some neighbouring, inhabited, and settled spot in the
-lowlands, possibly because the inhabitants of that neighbouring and
-inhabited spot had some sort of territorial rights in the upland place
-so named. Thus one has on the Downs, between Arundel and Goodwood,
-“Fittleworth Wood,” six or seven miles away from Fittleworth itself, and
-the use of the word “plain” for a stretch of the uplands is as common as
-can be,&mdash;for instance Plummers Plain between Lower Beeding and
-Handcross.</p>
-
-<p>We may take it, then, for the purposes of this short description, that
-among the Saxons of the time, or rather the local Sussex men of the
-time, “Hastings Plain” was the name given to the hill of stunted trees
-and grass up which the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_032" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_032.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_032.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FITTLEWORTH VILLAGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE NORMAN WEALD</div>
-
-<p>Normans charged late on that October afternoon. By sunset the issue was
-determined, and the victory gave the crumbling and anarchic Saxon state
-back again to Europe. The disorders of the Church were reformed, a
-centralised and efficient government was introduced, the art of building
-received, as it always does with the coming of fresh vigour, a vast
-impetus, and the history of the England that we know began.</p>
-
-<p>In connection with the Norman Conquest it is of some historical
-importance to ask one’s self what was the remaining function of the
-Weald, the great forest which ran along the rising swell of clay and
-sand, and bounded Sussex on the north?</p>
-
-<p>We have seen that in prehistoric times the Weald was undoubtedly the
-obstacle which delimited Sussex, and made all this district a maritime
-province with its towns on the sea. The Romans pierced the Weald with
-one great military road and probably several minor ways. But they did
-not settle it thickly. One may say that with the exception of a trace or
-two of fortifications it is practically destitute of Roman remains. It
-may possibly, or even probably, have contained many isolated farms in
-the prosperous middle and conclusion of the Roman period, but with the
-advent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span> of the barbarians it fell again, as did so many other parts of
-Europe, into the prehistoric conditions, and we have at least one
-allusion in Anglo-Saxon history to its desertion, in the story of that
-Saxon king who fled during the tenth century from his enemies and hid in
-the Weald for many months. We know then that in Roman times it was
-traversed by at least one great military road and probably by several
-others; that in the Dark Ages it was certainly a dividing line between
-the coast district and the Thames valley; that in the thirteenth and
-fourteenth centuries it was thoroughly civilised again. The main
-historical question or doubt relates to the eleventh century. Was this
-old wild condition of the forest a complete barrier to any travel
-northward from the coast at the time of the Conquest?</p>
-
-<p>It may be seriously doubted that it was such a barrier. It is probable
-that a certain amount of communication between North and South had
-already arisen, and, as we shall see in a moment, it is certain that
-communication became very vigorous in the centuries immediately
-succeeding Hastings.</p>
-
-<p>The nature of the obstacle, it must be remembered, has been mistaken by
-historians, notably by Freeman and by Green, and by all the smaller
-modern men, such as Mr. Davis and Mr. Oman<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE WEALD</div>
-
-<p class="nind">of Oxford, who copy what they see written in the popular histories. The
-Weald was never an impenetrable forest; no Northern European forests
-are. It was not cut by great lines of marsh, which are the chief
-obstacle to men under primitive conditions. It was not even dense, as
-are some of the English forests, for example the beech forests of the
-Downs. Those pieces of the Weald which have been left uncultivated, and
-which remain to-day almost in their original state, show us clearly what
-the whole district once was. It was simply a vague, long belt which it
-did not pay to cultivate in early times. Small, strong oak-trees stood
-in it, never very close together. Here and there on sandy wastes and
-heaths were furze and ferns. The clay did, indeed, give rise to many
-pools, stagnant meres, and sodden patches of soil. But there could never
-have been great difficulty in getting across it northwards, nor any lack
-of forest tracks from one side to the other, nor any great prevalence of
-dense thickets in which enemies could hide. Its chief character as a
-barrier was that of loneliness. For some sixteen or twenty miles, for a
-full day’s march that is, you had a chance in the early centuries as you
-went across the Weald of not meeting a man, and this old character is
-still remembered by any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> one who walks along the Stane Street from Five
-Oaks Green to Ockley. But you certainly could not have gone five miles
-without seeing some evidence of man’s activities&mdash;a road, a wall, a
-well, a felled tree, or a cast weapon. The Weald was, therefore, never a
-<i>military</i> obstacle, and to talk about the “impenetrable forest of the
-Weald” checking William the Conqueror after the Battle of Hastings is to
-show complete ignorance of the nature of Sussex. It was, however, an
-obstacle to the spread of ideas, speech, folklore, and the rest, and did
-maintain the isolation of Sussex down to quite recent times. It keeps
-traces of that character still.</p>
-
-<p>William then was not prevented from his march on London by the Weald. He
-went back at his leisure to the sea coast to secure his communications,
-marched up to Dover, garrisoning every harbour on his way, and then took
-the great north-east road through Kent, which has been the line of
-invasion, of commerce, and foreign travel in our island from the very
-origins of history.</p>
-
-<p>His own personal effort appears after this to pass from the history of
-the county, but the effect of the invasion upon Sussex was, as we have
-just remarked, enormous. It will be seen from what has preceded this
-that the field lay open for the effects</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_033" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_033.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_033.jpg" width="600" height="436" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>GROOMBRIDGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE NORMAN ORGANISATION</div>
-
-<p class="nind">of the new vigour. Nowhere had the remnants of Roman civilisation more
-thoroughly decayed. The old British stock and the admixture, such as it
-was, of Teutonic blood had mixed to form a population very much what we
-see to-day in the villages of Sussex, where most of the people are
-short, with dark, keen eyes, but a few tall and large, with the light
-hair, the slow gait, and the heavy bodies of the marsh men from Frisia
-and the Baltic.</p>
-
-<p>Again the reorganisation of Sussex begins from the sea.</p>
-
-<p>In the administrative division of the county Rapes, as they are called,
-were mapped out, though it must not be imagined that there was anything
-original in the selection of the particular districts. The clear Norman
-brain and the weighty Norman power would certainly make definite
-boundaries where before there had been nothing but the vague, local
-feeling of the countryside to determine the limits of the separate parts
-of the county; but the general set of the divisions was certainly
-inherited by the Norman from the older and semi-barbaric state of
-things. Moreover, even after the Norman organisation was fully
-established, the exact boundaries of each Rape were not always very well
-determined. Thus the parish of Slindon remained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> for centuries doubtful
-between Arundel and Chichester Rape, to which last it has finally been
-attributed.</p>
-
-<p>In number the Rapes were six, and were called after the towns of
-Chichester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings.</p>
-
-<p>It will be noted that in each case a town which could be reached by
-ships was chosen as the basis of the division, and that the tides of the
-Channel here, as always, were the creators of the county.</p>
-
-<p>The importance which the county was to hold in the new state of affairs
-is marked at once by the names of those to whom four of the Rapes were
-given: Montgomery, Braose, Warren, and Moreton, all of them closely
-connected with the family of the Conqueror, and all of them set, not as
-proprietors, but as military overlords over a vast number of manors. It
-would probably be seen, if an exact computation were taken, that, with
-the exception of the counties Palatine, feudal power was nowhere more
-concentrated than on this stretch of the sea coast. Here it was that
-William’s invasion had proved successful; here that new dangers might be
-expected; here, therefore, that he organised in the most thorough manner
-and under chiefs most closely connected with himself and his family,
-the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_034" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_034.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_034.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BOSHAM&mdash;MILL BRIDGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">BUILDING UP OF LEWES RAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">defence of the land. These few men count between them five-sevenths of
-the whole county.</p>
-
-<p>Before speaking of what was probably the principal economic factor in
-the new life which Sussex received from the invasion, the foundation of
-monasteries, it is of interest to show how a rape was built up from the
-sea by the new-comers, and the best example we can take to exhibit this
-process is the rape delivered into the hands of Warren, the Duke’s
-son-in-law, in overlordship. We shall see it spreading from the centre
-of its ancient capital, fed, it may be presumed, from its ancient
-harbour, and slowly extending northward a jurisdiction gradually
-acquired over the Weald, and later even overleaping the northern
-boundary of the forest ridge. The whole process occupied about two
-hundred years. Here then are the chief points in the growth of this Rape
-of Lewes.</p>
-
-<p>Let us note, in the first place, its natural boundaries. The Ouse bounds
-it to the east and the Adur to the west, and the strip of land runs
-north and south between these two river valleys; it starts from the sea
-coast by which entry is made into the county, and loses itself in the
-forest to the north.</p>
-
-<p>Its principal town, Lewes, has all those charac<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span>teristics which
-distinguish the central towns of the countrysides of Western Europe,
-save that it possesses no cathedral. It is a place naturally susceptible
-of fortification. It is Roman, and probably pre-Roman in its origins. It
-possesses a natural means of approach in the shape of the river beneath
-it; good water, a dry and naturally well-drained soil, and (a peculiar
-feature which is to be discovered in every case throughout Gaul,
-Northern Italy, Western Germany, and Britain) it lies, not in the
-centre, but right to one side of the countryside which takes its name
-from it. This feature, which is so marked in the case of the great
-Norman bishoprics and of most other divisions of the later Empire, is
-probably due to the fact that where a river or range of hills or great
-forest formed a natural boundary for a district, it at the same time
-formed the main natural defence for the chief stronghold of that
-district. Whatever the cause may be, the chief towns of the various
-divisions into which Western Europe has fallen are nearly always near
-the frontier of those divisions. Canterbury is near the sea; Edinburgh
-near the north of the Lothians. Rouen is by no means central as to
-Normandy. Even Avranches, Bayeux, and Coutances are upon the edges of
-their</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_035" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_035.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_035.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>WEST HAM</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">MILITARY VALUE OF LEWES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">respective dioceses. And in this county of Sussex, Chichester, the
-cathedral town, is close to the western border, Arundel is right up
-against the border of its own Rape, Bramber within a stone’s throw of
-its eastern boundary. Pevensey alone is somewhat central. Hastings is
-again thrown up towards the eastern side of the belt which takes its
-name.</p>
-
-<p>Lewes, then, is the stronghold upon which the chance division of the
-county had grown up in the Dark Ages. The Normans come; they add to the
-Saxon fortifications a great Norman castle, and they define more
-accurately the Rape whose general conception they have inherited from
-the men whom they have just conquered. They survey (the results of their
-survey remain in Doomsday), and, having done so, for the next four or
-five generations they push northward, increasing the agricultural value
-of the villages as they cultivate them, and extending the rule of man
-over nature farther and farther into the forest of the Weald.</p>
-
-<p>The constructive effort of the Norman begins by his arrangement of
-government. He settles upon each of the great divisions the head of some
-great family, who is nominally the overlord of numerous parishes within
-that boundary, and who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span> is practically the head of the garrison of the
-central castle, and the receiver of certain small dues from the numerous
-villages or manors of which he is technically the lord. In the case of
-Lewes this function fell, as we have seen, to William of Warren, who was
-a son-in-law of William the Conqueror, and had distinguished himself in
-the fight upon Hastings Plain. His residence is in the Castle at Lewes,
-and undoubtedly his chief political function is to guard this entry to
-the county. He rebuilds that castle, and he is the custodian of the
-local survey.</p>
-
-<p>What he does for a port we cannot tell at this distance of time. We know
-that the marshy land at the foot of the castle was not an estuary of the
-sea at this epoch, and was probably even passable in the eleventh
-century. We know this from the coins and relics which have been found in
-it. We know also that the present harbour of Newhaven was diverted later
-than the Conquest, and that the old mouth of the river ran somewhat to
-the east of it. We may conjecture with great probability that the port
-upon which Lewes was dependent for its commerce and provisions and
-reinforcements was somewhere near the old mill-pond between Newhaven and
-Seaford.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_036" style="width: 484px;">
-<a href="images/ill_036.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_036.jpg" width="484" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>LEWES CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">LEWES RAPE INLAND</div>
-
-<p>Chief among the manors dependent on Lewes and the personality of De
-Warren we find Brighton under its old Saxon name. It is a large and
-important place. It controls the chief arable district which falls
-within the command of Lewes Castle and of the Rape thereto appertaining.
-Rottingdean, next to it, also comes into the great survey, for
-Rottingdean is along the sea, and the parishes along the sea, as we have
-so frequently had occasion to repeat, are historically the first and
-economically the most valuable of Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>The next belt inland, the belt of the Downs, was uninhabited then as it
-is to-day, and will be perhaps throughout a remote future. But the old
-villages upon the strip of fertile land to the north of them are already
-well developed by the time the Normans come. Nay, they were Roman before
-they were Saxon, for Clayton and Ditchling, the two principal centres of
-the string of villages in this part, contain Roman remains. Keymer also
-is in Doomsday. So is Hurstpierpoint, under the name of Herste.
-Immediately northward you get the line of villages which are not
-developed until the wealth and the population of England have increased
-with the advent of the new civilisation. Typical of these is Cuckfield.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span>
-It is not mentioned in Doomsday. It was then perhaps mere forest. It is
-not until the thirteenth century that it gets its market (from Henry
-III.), and we know that at that moment it was land held of the Warrens.
-Finally, at the very end of the same century, within a few years of the
-meeting of the great parliament of Edward I., and in the seventh year of
-his reign, we get the first hint of the demarcation of the Sussex border
-on the forest ridge. There is an inquiry into the rights of the Warrens
-to the free hunting of ground game in the forest of Worth, which extends
-over the crest of the forest ridge and down on to the Surrey side.</p>
-
-<p>Here we have an excellent example of the way in which the overlapping of
-Sussex into what is geographically Surrey occurred. The Warrens are very
-powerful nobles, much more powerful than those lordships in the Surrey
-towns who hold positions of no strategic importance, and whose garrisons
-were therefore not heavily endowed at the time of the Conquest. Being
-great lords the Warrens extend their hunting as far north as they can
-into the Weald. They go right up through the forest, over the ridge, and
-down on to the Surrey side. There is (it may be presumed) some complaint
-against them for this extravagance,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_037" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_037.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_037.jpg" width="600" height="460" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>GARDEN OF THE MOATED HOUSE, GROOMBRIDGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE END AT WORTH</div>
-
-<p class="nind">or some jealousy on the part of the Crown. They are examined, and under
-the inquisition come out triumphant; so that the effect of their family
-and of the Conqueror’s original disposition in the Rape may be said to
-have come to its final result when their claim over the extreme limit of
-the forest ridge was granted by Edward I., and Worth Forest was admitted
-to be within their jurisdiction and therefore within the county.</p>
-
-<p>This sketch model, as it were, of the way in which a rape has been built
-up,&mdash;first, the sea fortress, then the Wealden market-town, and lastly,
-the definition of the forest boundary,&mdash;may be borne in mind as we deal
-with the other five similar divisions into which Sussex fell.</p>
-
-<p>Lewes Rape, which we have just been considering, is the very central
-Rape of the whole county. If a line be drawn through Stanmer Park from
-north to south, and prolonged to the sea on one side and to the Surrey
-border on the other, such a line will be discovered to bisect the county
-into two almost exactly equal areas, and to bisect the Rape of Lewes in
-very much the same proportion.</p>
-
-<p>Lewes Rape is not only central, but is also the backbone, as it were,
-upon which the county has been built up. It is this which makes its
-develop<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span>ment so typical of the general history of Sussex. The three
-Rapes to the west of it and the two Rapes to the east have been somewhat
-more open from the beginning of history, but not until one has
-understood Lewes Rape does one understand the growth of the Bramber,
-Chichester, and Arundel Rapes to the west, nor of those of Pevensey and
-Hastings to the east. For all, like Lewes, grew up from the sea, from
-the harbour mouth and a castle at the back of it, on northward through
-the old British villages under the Downs, till at last they stretched
-into the Weald and overlapped into what should properly be Surrey. But
-this process, though common to all, was modified in every special case
-by special circumstances to which we shall presently allude.</p>
-
-<p>The Rape of Pevensey is of a curious shape. It narrows somewhat towards
-the middle and bulges out towards the top, or north end. This appears to
-be the contrary of what one would expect in a Sussex division, the
-important part of which always lay round the sea coast, but the cause of
-the shape thus assumed by the Rape is that in its northern part the iron
-industry had arisen long before the Norman Conquest, and had thus opened
-up the Weald; it had also made the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_038" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_038.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_038.jpg" width="600" height="392" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>PEVENSEY CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">PEVENSEY RAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">government of the area and the collection of taxes from it a subject of
-ambition for the strongest of the neighbouring lords.</p>
-
-<p>Such a lord was found in the Earl of Moreton, the brother-in-law of the
-Conqueror, who held the Castle of Pevensey, and who was the first
-controller of the district after the full Norman organisation began.</p>
-
-<p>Here, as in the case of Hastings, but unlike every other Rape, the seat
-of government, Pevensey, was actually upon the sea.</p>
-
-<p>The name of Pevensey is instructive of its antiquity. It is probably
-derived from Celtic roots signifying “the fortification at the far end
-of the wood,” which would exactly describe an important and fortified
-sea-coast town situated as Pevensey was situated to the forest from
-which it took its Roman name; for “Anderida,” or “Andresio,” certainly
-refers to the Weald, the Celtic forest of “Andred,” of which the Saxons
-made “the Andredswald.”</p>
-
-<p>Incidentally one may digress to point out how crude and insufficient is
-the greater part of our hurried modern philology. But for an accident no
-one would have been able to work out the meaning of this name of
-Pevensey. It was gradually shortened (after passing through the
-strangest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span> forms) to “Pemsey,” a comparatively recent change in the
-spelling, due perhaps to local patriotism, or perhaps to the affectation
-of some studious landlord who, in reproducing the ancient form, gave us
-the present spelling of the word, from which we are able to trace its
-ancient Celtic roots; but how many place-names up and down South England
-must have been wrongly ascribed to Teutonic origin from our ignorance of
-the local method of pronunciation!</p>
-
-<p>It is doubtful whether anything of Roman structure remains in Pevensey,
-though much of the material used in the castle is Roman, and though the
-towers of that fortification are round. It is enough to remark, that
-after the long night of the Saxon period the town shared in the general
-renaissance of South England which followed the Norman Conquest. To give
-but one indication of this: it trebled in population in twenty years.
-There is little doubt that at this period, that is, throughout the end
-of the eleventh century, the whole of the twelfth, and beginning of the
-thirteenth, the harbour lay beneath the mound of the present ruins. The
-contour lines, slight as they are in elevation, and the nature of the
-soil are enough to prove this; nor is it difficult, as one stands on the
-height of Pevensey Castle, to reproduce the scene which must</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_039" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_039.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_039.jpg" width="600" height="349" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CLIFFS NEAR EASTBOURNE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">PEVENSEY TOWN</div>
-
-<p class="nind">have presented itself to the eye of a man living six hundred years ago
-when he looked northwards and eastwards at high tide. The great marshy
-flats of the Level were a shallow bay covered by the sea, out of which
-bay there rounded in towards him a harbour protected from every side
-except the north-east, and even from that side exposed to no long drive
-of the weather. This harbour, which was naturally shallow, was probably
-deepened artificially, whether before or during the Roman occupation; it
-remained serviceable until past the close of that twelfth century which
-produced so many great changes in the physical condition as in the
-political constitutions of Western Europe. Thus Pevensey is one of the
-first of the lesser towns of England to receive its borough charter. It
-gets that charter in the ninth year of King John, and it counts as being
-politically the most important of the Cinque Ports, until there falls
-upon it the fate which has fallen upon every south-country harbour in
-turn. It was destroyed by that upon which it had lived, the sea. The
-beginning of the disaster, a mixture of drift silting up the harbour and
-of encroachment and breaking-down of its defences, may be dated from the
-middle of the thirteenth century, and after this date the decline
-continues with such rapidity<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span> that before the end of the French wars
-Pevensey is hardly a town. It has declined ever since.</p>
-
-<p>You get in the Rape of Pevensey, as in that of Lewes, the universal
-Sussex rule that the inhabited places are first found in the
-neighbourhood of the sea. But this rule is modified in the case of
-Pevensey Rape by the ironstone of the Eastern Weald. But for the
-industry arising from the use of this the forest ridge of Ashdown would
-have remained as lonely as that of St. Leonards. As it was, many places
-upon either slope of the ridge are known to have been inhabited from the
-earliest times; for instance, Mayfield, which may properly be regarded
-as a foot-hill of Ashdown Forest, and as a part of the true Weald, is
-connected with the name of St. Dunstan, and formed one of that
-procession of ecclesiastical palaces which the See of Canterbury held
-all along the centre of the county, and of which the last westward is
-Slindon. Again, Rotherfield is, quite possibly, as old as Offa, or
-older; at least, dues from that parish were claimed by the Monastery of
-St. Denis near Paris, which dues were said to have been bequeathed by
-Bertoald, one of Offa’s lieutenants, during the lifetime of Charlemagne,
-and before the close of the eighth century. Frant, though we do not hear
-of it by name</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_040" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_040.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_040.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MAYFIELD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">HASTINGS RAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">until much later, was undoubtedly of great antiquity, and formed a sort
-of appendage to Rotherfield.</p>
-
-<p>When, however, one gets over the empty ridge of Ashdown and south on to
-the slope which looks at the Downs, the natural isolation of the Weald
-is to be traced. Buxted, for instance, is not heard of before 1298,
-though later it has the fine reputation of having cast the first cannon
-ever made in England. Uckfield close by is of no importance until the
-sixteenth century. When we turn to the sea coast, on the contrary,
-everything at once proves the antiquity of settlements in that
-neighbourhood. For example, you have discoveries at Alfriston, just
-behind Beachy Head, of British coins; you have Hailsham, mentioned in
-the Norman Survey; and on Mount Caburn, just above the Vale of Glynde,
-are some of the most perfect prehistoric fortifications in the county.</p>
-
-<p>The Rape of Hastings has, further, exceptions of its own, for here we
-come to the narrow eastern end of the county where there is no long
-hinterland of Weald to give us the normal development of the Sussex
-Rape. But even here there is a trace of that slower rising of the inland
-as compared with the sea-coast sites; thus Robertsbridge is the child of
-a monastery of the central Middle Ages.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> Battle was so little known
-until the great fight of 1066 that even its name appears in doubt at
-that epoch. On the other hand, Crowhurst we know to have been held by
-Harold. Bexhill is mentioned in Doomsday, and we know of the existence
-of Winchelsea and of Rye at the same epoch.</p>
-
-<p>The mention of these two towns cannot be allowed to pass without some
-description of their fate as seaports.</p>
-
-<p>Winchelsea, like Pevensey, contained, hooked in behind a peninsula of
-land, a harbour protected from the prevailing south-westerly winds, and
-here, as at Pevensey, it is possible to stand to-day and notice what
-original opportunities must have led to the later and partly artificial
-harbour. Its importance continued, as did that of Pevensey, into the
-middle of the thirteenth century, when the first of its disasters began
-in an overwhelming high tide. Rye is still a port, the port of the mouth
-of the Rother; but what a port, only those know who have attempted to
-make it even in the smallest of craft! Unless there should arise some
-local industry which will make it worth while to dredge the river and
-establish an expensive system of leading marks into its mouth, Rye
-within another hundred years will be no more than Sandwich.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_041" style="width: 509px;">
-<a href="images/ill_041.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_041.jpg" width="509" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>WINCHELSEA</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">HASTINGS TOWN</div>
-
-<p>The antiquity of the town of Hastings itself is among the most
-interesting points in the history of Sussex, as is also the name which
-the town bears. This name is usually ascribed to the pirate Hasting, or
-Hasten, who ravaged the coast and later sailed up the Thames, at the
-very end of the Danish invasions, during the reign of Alfred. It is at
-any rate one of the very few important Sussex names which are certainly
-and wholly Teutonic, and, if its derivation be exactly guessed, it is
-the only place-name in the county derived from the name of a man, for
-the derivation of Chichester from Cissa, the son of Aella, is obviously
-as legendary as the derivation of Portsmouth from “Port,” or indeed any
-other of the Anglo-Saxon myths.</p>
-
-<p>The antiquarian does not discover at first sight what feature it was
-which led to the early importance of Hastings. But, on a further
-consideration, it may be conjectured that the rise of the place depended
-upon the conjunction of two things not often found together, a safe
-beach and a strong isolated hill.</p>
-
-<p>Allusion has already been made, in the earlier part of this book, to the
-importance of a good beach in early navigation. As common a way as any
-other of making land, until the development of shipping in the later
-Middle Ages, was that still<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span> adopted by our South Coast fishermen. The
-vessels, though large, were of a shallow draft and of a broad beam; they
-were run upon the beach with a careful choice of the right moment
-between the breakers, and before the momentum of their “weigh” was
-wholly spent, two or three hands standing ready forward had leapt into
-the shallow water, and had prepared to direct the bows of the vessel
-over some form of roller when the next sea should thrust her farther up
-the shore. When once the bows had taken the roller above the sea line,
-the rest was easy. The advancing seas would necessarily push the vessel
-farther up the slope, and when a second or third roller had been placed
-under the keel a dozen or so of the crew could move even a heavy vessel
-up out of the way of the high tide. Nor would craft with so shallow a
-section as those used in the Dark and early Middle Ages have careened
-over to one side or another at all dangerously during the process of
-beaching. But for this manœuvre to be successful a particular kind of
-beach is required; the slope must be even, or one might damage one’s
-vessel against an abrupt bulge of it. It must not be too steep, or the
-rolling of the vessel will be too laborious for the crew. It must not be
-too slight, or the distance along which the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_042" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_042.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_042.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE STAR INN, ALFRISTON</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">MILITARY IMPORTANCE OF HASTINGS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">vessel has to be rolled will be too great to make the effort worth
-while. In material it must be firm and hard&mdash;a quality which gave its
-pre-eminence to the sand of Deal, for if it be shifty or sinking the
-difficulty of beaching the boat may be insuperable.</p>
-
-<p>Now all these characters are to be discovered in the shingle at
-Hastings, and added to these is the presence of a strong and easily
-fortified eminence.</p>
-
-<p>The importance of this sort of refuge can easily be minimised by the
-modern historian, but those acquainted with the conditions of an earlier
-time will appreciate its value. A fortress now serves, as Napoleon well
-put it, “to save time,” and serves little else in military purpose. In a
-sense this has always been the chief value of a fortress, but when one
-was dealing with smaller forces, more passionate and less constant in
-motive than those of to-day, and far more easily disintegrated than is a
-thoroughly civilised army, time was of far greater value in a campaign.
-Again, the defence was easier with a smaller body of men on account of
-the comparative inefficiency of projectiles, the comparative lack of
-training of the assaulting infantry, and the pre-dominance of cavalry
-tactics, between the fall of the Roman Empire and the invention of
-fire-arms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span> It may be roughly asserted that the power of the defensive
-behind properly constructed works grew to a maximum from the fifth to
-the middle of the twelfth century, remained almost stationary till the
-close of the thirteenth, and only slowly declined during the sieges of
-the French wars in the succeeding hundred years.</p>
-
-<p>Now under such conditions the importance of hills such as that of
-Hastings was very great. Here a garrison could, properly commanded, hold
-out almost indefinitely; it could, therefore, cover a landing or repel
-an invasion; it could gather under its protection a large and increasing
-population. The shape of the hill was precisely that required for
-fortification in the Dark and Middle Ages. It is, in its best form, an
-example of what you will find also at Chateau Gaillard in Normandy and,
-to a lesser degree, at Lewes and Arundel in this same county of Sussex,
-namely, a sort of peninsula or spur with a crowning summit of its own,
-united with the hills behind it by a comparatively narrow neck, over
-which assault should be impossible. In the modern sense and referring to
-modern artillery, such positions are extremely bad, for they are
-commanded by the higher range at their back; as Arundel is commanded by
-the heights of the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_043" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_043.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_043.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HASTINGS&mdash;THE SHORE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">MILITARY IMPORTANCE OF HASTINGS</div>
-
-<p>Park, Lewes by Mount Harry, and Chateau Gaillard by the woods locally
-known as “La Ferme”; indeed, in the case of this latter castle the
-conquest of Philip Augustus was largely due to the fact that missile
-weapons, even in his age, were just within range of the castle from the
-heights to the south and east. But though, under modern conditions, such
-situations are bad, under the conditions of at least the eleventh and
-early twelfth centuries, they were ideal. When William the Conqueror
-held Hastings there were no methods by which projectiles of sufficient
-strength could be thrown at the castle from the hills to the north-east,
-though a hundred years later, by the time of the Third Crusade, and
-later still, during the attack on the Norman castle already mentioned,
-such weapons had been developed. One has but to stand on the platform of
-the ruined stronghold of Hastings to see that, for at least the first
-hundred years after the Conquest, the place must have been, under any
-proper command, impregnable. And indeed we find attached to it in
-Anglo-Saxon times the epithet “ceaster,” which is never given to any
-place that has not been properly fortified, whether by the Romans or by
-their successors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>This fortification of Hastings Hill leads one to mention two other
-castles which lie within the Rape, and which are illustrative of a
-feature to be discovered in Sussex alone among the English counties.
-This feature is the presence of subsidiary castles to strengthen the
-gates of the county, and to stand behind those principal castles whose
-primary function it is to defend the entries into the land. These
-subsidiary castles may be best explained to modern readers by using a
-modern metaphor, and saying that they act as “half-backs” to the great
-seaport castles of Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>The seaport castles have already been mentioned; we will repeat the list
-to refresh the reader’s memory: they are Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes,
-Bramber, and Arundel.</p>
-
-<p>Of these Lewes alone did not, so far as history knows, possess a
-subsidiary castle to the north of it, and that for this sufficient
-reason, that the road immediately north split eastward and westward, and
-forced an army either to pass within striking distance of Hurstmanceaux
-or within striking distance of Bramber, for the old road did not go over
-the bleak and deserted ridge of Ashdown as the modern one does. And the
-historic marches down south upon Lewes were undertaken in a</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_044" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_044.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_044.jpg" width="600" height="397" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HURSTMONCEAUX CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SECONDARY CASTLES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">circuitous manner, as, for instance, that famous one of Henry III.,
-which ended in the defeat of the King in 1264.</p>
-
-<p>In the case of every other great defensive work a secondary work exists
-behind it. Hastings has Bodiam, Pevensey has Hurtsmanceaux, Bramber has
-Knepp (which has been more completely ruined than any of the others),
-Arundel has Amberley. Hurtsmanceaux should logically fall into the Rape
-of Pevensey, to which it strategically belongs. The accident of a river
-course makes it fall into the Rape of Hastings, and on this account we
-mention it here. The other castles will be dealt with in their proper
-place under each Rape as we deal with it; for Knepp is in the Rape of
-Bramber, and Amberley in that of Arundel.</p>
-
-<p>As Moreton had been given the overlordship of Pevensey, the government
-of its Rape, and many manors within it, and as Warren had been given
-Lewes, so Bramber fell to Braose, and that great name still stands
-written like a title over the history of this part of the county. The
-castle itself and some few of the many manors with which the family was
-richly endowed enjoyed a fate extremely rare in the case of English
-land, and on account of its rarity the more pleasing, when it is
-discovered;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span> there has been a long and true continuity in their manorial
-lordship. With the French this continuity was quite common up to the
-Revolution, and to this day there are many French families, several
-Italian, and a few German, who can trace their lineage and their
-connection with particular portions of the soil well beyond the
-crusading epoch and even to the ninth or early tenth century. But our
-English aristocracy is exceedingly modern. The bulk of such few families
-as boast any antiquity at all can barely trace themselves to the
-Reformation; the mass of those who pose for lineage end in the mist of
-the seventeenth century. Bramber and some of the De Braose lands had
-better luck. For ten generations it remained in direct succession. When
-this ended (much at the same time as the Lancastrian usurpation) in an
-heiress, this heiress married a Mowbray, upon which family, almost
-immediately afterward, was conferred the Duchy of Norfolk. Ten
-successors, Mowbrays, held it in the direct line when, about a century
-after the first change, and a generation before the Reformation, it
-ended again in an heiress who married into the then undistinguished
-family of Howard, whose various branches had been careful, above all
-things, to increase their wealth by opportune<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">BRAMBER RAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">alliances. To this new family the Duchy of Norfolk was soon conveyed,
-and after another ten successors the De Braose inheritance of Bramber is
-still to be found in their hands. It is a remarkable and a delightful
-example of a succession unbroken by purchase.</p>
-
-<p>The last sign of the ancient importance of Bramber lay in the fact that
-it returned, until the Reform Bill, two members to Parliament as a
-borough. It was then as it is now a small village, and there remained
-then as there remains now of its ancient castle nothing but one vast
-wall.</p>
-
-<p>Here, as is the case throughout all the other Rapes, the parishes along
-the sea coast or near it come earliest in history, and those of the
-Weald come last. Thus Lancing is in Doomsday; so is Coombes; so is
-Buttolphs (under Annington); Beeding is actually in Alfred’s will.
-Shoreham, as we have seen, entered history hundreds of years before, and
-Henfield is in the great Norman survey under the lordship of the Bishop
-of Chichester; but as you go northwards the names begin to fail you.
-Shipley, if we may judge by its church, was probably a development of
-the next century. Horsham is first mentioned as a town of importance in
-the thirteenth century, when it sends two members to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span> the Parliament of
-the twenty-third of Edward I. And little Rusper, up in the far north, we
-do not hear of until there is mention of a convent of the same date. As
-for the forest of St. Leonard’s we know that De Braose held it, but, no
-more than in the case of Worth, is there any proof of its inhabitation
-or even importance till a much later date.</p>
-
-<p>The port of this Rape, Shoreham, has an interesting history as being yet
-another of those many ports which the long history of Sussex has seen
-decline. It lay so directly south of London, and, once communication was
-established across the Weald, it was so excellent a port of
-disembarkation for any one coming from the mouth of the Seine or any of
-the Norman ports, that it maintained a very high political importance
-right on into the fifteenth century. Thus it was the landing-place of
-John when he returned to England after the death of his brother.</p>
-
-<p>In the French wars under the third Edward it was assessed to furnish as
-many ships as Plymouth and two more than Bristol or London. Shortly
-after its decline began. That great bank of shingle, which is now
-covered with a very unpleasant little town of iron bungalows, grew up
-and obstructed</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_045" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_045.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_045.jpg" width="600" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BODIAM CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SHOREHAM TOWN</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the issue of the river, so that to-day the mouth of the harbour is far
-eastward of New Shoreham. The burgesses complained that they could no
-longer pay the old taxes, the borough rights lingered on; but even these
-at last disappeared in the eighteenth century, when the town was
-disfranchised and the whole Rape was represented together in its stead.
-Oddly enough it was at this very moment that the town began to revive;
-the trade in coal proved useful to it; it became, before the railways,
-the natural port for Brighton, which lies close by, and, year by year,
-it gradually though somewhat slowly recovered its old position. It now
-has probably as much trade as any other Sussex port except Newhaven,
-though the bar is still difficult for vessels of any draft, and the
-sharp turning at the entry of the harbour adds to the inconvenience of
-that refuge, as does the narrowness of the river and the steepness of
-its banks opposite the town itself.</p>
-
-<p>Its gradual revival did not re-enfranchise it; the Rape still remained
-the parliamentary unit to which it belonged, and the first member to sit
-for that division was a Burrell of Knepp Castle.</p>
-
-<p>With this name we get not only one of the famous Sussex squires, whose
-position will be dealt<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span> with later, but the principal historian of the
-county residing in one of its most ancient centres. The Burrells were
-lawyers of Horsham who purchased Knepp in the second half of the
-eighteenth century, a true Sussex family growing upon Sussex soil. The
-founder of the present baronetcy collected all the new material which
-has been worked in by subsequent writers into the history of the county.
-Much of this is luckily preserved in the British Museum, but some parts,
-unless the present writer is misinformed, disappeared during the recent
-fire in the modern house of Knepp Castle.</p>
-
-<p>Of the original fortification nothing remains but one little fragment in
-the south of the estate to the right of the Ashington road. The land has
-still one local distinction, however, in that it holds a sheet of water,
-Knepp mill-pond, which is said to be the largest unbroken area of water
-south of the Thames.</p>
-
-<p>Next in order to the Rape of Bramber comes that of Arundel. Here again
-the typical upgrowth of a Sussex Rape is modified by local conditions,
-for the Weald at the northern end of this Rape has been traversed since
-the beginning of our history by the great line of the Roman road.
-Arundel Rape has therefore been always accessible from</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_046" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_046.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_046.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ARUNDEL CASTLE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">ARUNDEL RAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the Thames valley, and the Thames valley from it. On this account there
-occurs, as one might imagine, a very early and very thorough development
-of all its habitable portion. A mere list of the places mentioned in
-Doomsday in this Rape, places which are still most of them quite small,
-and have never supported any great number of inhabitants, is surprising.
-Some, such as Arundel itself, and Climping and Felpham, go back to
-Anglo-Saxon times. One, Amberley, counts as part of the original
-foundation of the Church at the close of the eighth century, and
-Lyminster had a convent before the arrival of the Normans, while
-Littlehampton was certainly a port before the same date. Meanwhile a
-rapid survey of the names appearing in Doomsday, all within a walk of
-the sea coast, are sufficient to show how thoroughly the Arun valley,
-the subsidiary valley of the Western Rother, and the coastal plain west
-of the mouth of the river, had developed before the close of the
-eleventh century.</p>
-
-<p>Thus Barnham (to begin with the flat lands along the sea) is in
-Doomsday; so are Eastergate, Walberton, Tortington, where later was the
-famous priory which preserved the early records of the mayoralty of
-London, and in whose destruction<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span> the chief monuments of London history
-were lost. Binsted is in Doomsday. Turning to the slope of the Downs we
-find Goring is in Doomsday. Angmering below it, and on the belt of good
-loam land to the north of them Sutton, Barlavington, Duncton, Burton,
-Stopham, and Petworth are all to be found, as are Bury, Bignor, and
-Hardham, where later was to spring up the priory of the Hauterives. On
-the far side of the river Parham and Burpham are mentioned, so is
-Storrington, and on the river itself Pulborough; while even such lonely
-nooks of the Downs as Upper Waltham come into the Norman Survey.</p>
-
-<p>All this fell to the Montgomerys. Very shortly afterwards, by the
-failure of that family, the guardianship of the castle at Arundel and
-the headship of the Rape went to the De Albinis; to them succeeded the
-Fitz Alans, and to them again, when they ended in an heiress, succeeded
-the ubiquitous and ever watchful family of Howard, who snapped up that
-inheritance before it could fall to any other, and the new Duchy of
-Norfolk added not only the Rape of Arundel to that of Bramber, but also
-a sort of headship over the Rape of Chichester,&mdash;for Chichester had gone
-with Arundel in the original grant to Montgomery.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_047" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_047.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_047.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>AMBERLEY CHALK PITS</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">ARUNDEL TOWN</div>
-
-<p>The town of Arundel is singular among English sites of the first rank,
-from the fact that it has neither increased nor diminished to any
-considerable extent for at least a thousand years.</p>
-
-<p>It is probable that there was here in Roman times a crossing of the
-river, though the point is hotly denied by the more pedantic among our
-historians, because, so far, no Roman remains have been found under the
-soil of the town, or at least none have been identified by casual
-visitors. But, whether it was a Roman town or not, it is certain that
-from the moment the isolated spur upon which the castle stands was
-crowned with strong fortifications and garrisoned by the central
-authority of England, a town of much the same size as the modern Arundel
-must have been grouped round its base.</p>
-
-<p>Those who deal most with the statistics of the early Middle Ages seem
-most blind to the conclusions of common sense. When they are told that
-only ten or twenty burgesses are to be discovered in a particular town,
-according to the evidence of some taxing list, they are willing to jump
-to the conclusion that only ten or twenty families existed in the place
-at the time the list was made. Instead of appreciating the very natural
-attitude of any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span> tax-gatherer to save himself all possible labour, and
-the certitude that he would put down only those who were assessed in his
-particular tax, and instead of grasping the fact that, until the later
-Middle Ages, men paid taxes, not by localities, but by categories (some
-as King’s men, some as local baron’s men, some as the Church’s men,
-others according to all manner of local apportionments), they take the
-very crude way of estimating the particular document they have as an
-index of total population. It is this, for example, which has led to the
-astounding conclusion that England at the time of the Norman invasion
-held less than two million souls, and it is this which makes people
-misunderstand, if they read modern histories, the nature of a town like
-Arundel.</p>
-
-<p>So long as the spur above the Arun was protected by marshes and isolated
-by a narrow neck from the main range of the Downs, so long would it
-tempt men to form a stronghold there, and the moment that stronghold was
-held by national forces under the obedience of a national King, it
-presupposed a county town. It presupposed defence for a market (the
-later <i>license</i> for a market is quite a different thing; the market
-existed often for centuries before the license which was usually</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_048" style="width: 446px;">
-<a href="images/ill_048.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_048.jpg" width="446" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MIDHURST&mdash;KNOCK HUNDRED ROW</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">ARUNDEL TOWN</div>
-
-<p class="nind">only the proof of the King’s growing power); it presupposed butchers
-under the castle walls, money-changers, men coming to and from the
-garrison for every sort of purpose, carriers, and&mdash;to quote a particular
-point&mdash;barbers; the men of the Dark and early Middle Ages were clean
-shaven. An Arab fortress does not arise nowadays without a town at its
-foot, still less would the civilisation of the Dark and Middle Ages
-produce the stronghold without producing a town as well. And a town
-means something more than a village.</p>
-
-<p>The bridge at Arundel, which one may believe, though one cannot prove,
-to be Roman in its origin, used to cross the river somewhat farther down
-the stream. The line of the modern High Street points directly to that
-part of the town which now looks very like a continuation of the
-market-place, and has become a sort of backwater in the traffic of the
-place. It was originally the direct line to the old bridge. Those
-acquainted with Arundel will best appreciate the site of the old
-crossing of the river when they learn that the modern Bridge Hotel lies
-exactly between the ancient and the modern bridges, and the line of the
-causeway eastward can further be traced by the existence at the farther
-end of it, up against the high land, of the old building<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> which is seen
-from the station between the railway and the rising ground.</p>
-
-<p>Amberley Castle, which lay at the north end of Arundel gap, is not
-preserved in its entirety, but is still a fine ruin, and occupies, as
-Arundel did, a position of great military strength, though it does not
-dominate the landscape as does the larger fortress. The strength of
-Amberley lay in this, that from the north and west it was quite
-unattainable. If the culture of those fields now known by the highly
-descriptive name of “Amberley Wildbrook” were to cease for a generation,
-the old conditions would be reproduced; the floods would soon turn them
-into marsh again. From the east the approach is not easy: it lies over
-the rolling spurs of the Downs. From the south there is only one narrow
-passage on the shelf of the Downs as they slope down to the Arun. It is
-a tradition in the county that the two castles of Arundel and Amberley
-were linked together in their system of fortification by an underground
-passage, and stories are told&mdash;with what authority the present writer
-cannot say&mdash;of men who have attempted to explore either end of this
-passage and succeeded for a certain distance. The thing is possible
-enough.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_049" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_049.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_049.jpg" width="600" height="391" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>AMBERLEY CHURCH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">HOUGHTON BRIDGE</div>
-
-<p>Amberley is at any rate one of the very, very old sites of human
-habitation in Sussex. It is the fashion to decry monastic charters, and
-it would be difficult to prove, though it was for centuries constantly
-asserted, that Amberley was part of the original foundation of the
-Church of Selsea. We have regarded it as sufficiently historical to be
-included in former pages of this book, but whether the monastic
-traditional charter be true or false, its very existence proves that the
-popular legend attributed to the place the highest antiquity.</p>
-
-<p>Houghton, which lies in the neck of the gap, is certainly equally old.
-That British trackway which was mentioned when the topography of Sussex
-was being described, and which runs all along the rich loam belt
-immediately to the north of the Downs, had to cross the river at some
-point. Now it is the universal rule of the old British trackways that
-they spy out the narrowest part of the wet lands when they attempt to
-cross a river. They descend by the nearest spur upon the one side, and
-make for the nearest firm land upon the other. At this spot the river
-Arun curves strongly eastward and runs right under the Downs. The
-marshes to the westward of it are still often flooded and were once wide
-and impassable, but at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span> Houghton there is a spur coming down across them
-which, while it does not actually bridge the gap, comes near to doing
-so. That hollow sunken lane, which is the modern descendant of the old
-British road, runs from Bury just above the flood line on dry soil; it
-climbs up on to the spur close to an old and reverend inn called “The
-St. George and Dragon,” and then turns sharp to the left down along the
-crest of the spur, making for the shortest possible crossing which the
-marshes afford. It is not too much to say that we are certain the Arun
-has been crossed at this point since prehistoric men first attempted to
-pass the river as they journeyed north of the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>The connection of the place with modern history is also not without
-interest. It was here that Charles II., escaping in disguise after the
-battle of Worcester, took what was perhaps his last glass of ale, or at
-least his last glass of ale in the saddle, on his way to Shoreham, from
-which happy port he got away to his long exile. The house is still
-licensed, and cursed be the man who takes that license away.</p>
-
-<p>The historical importance of Houghton is further evidenced by the name
-of the wood which lies up beyond Whiteways on the slope of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE RAPE OF CHICHESTER</div>
-
-<p>Downs, which still retains the name of Houghton Forest, indicating that
-the Crown hunting lands, or, if the modern phrase be preferred, the
-national preserves, of the neighbourhood depended upon this valley
-village two miles off. There is little more to say with regard to the
-historical development of the Rape of Arundel. The villages and towns of
-the Weald are here, as elsewhere, of a late development. Slinfold, for
-example, is not mentioned in Doomsday, nor is Billingshurst, though the
-latter is probably Celtic in origin. Pulborough, which like
-Billingshurst lies on the Roman road, is the last of the outposts of the
-Weald to be spoken of in that document, while the excellent village of
-North Chapel was actually not detached from the parish of Petworth until
-as late a date as 1693.</p>
-
-<p>The Rape of Chichester has this character to differentiate it from the
-other rapes of the county, that it is not military. Two explanations of
-this fact concur and supplement each other. The Rape of Chichester led
-nowhere, and had no gap in its hills, and the Rape of Chichester was
-dominated by the Church.</p>
-
-<p>We have seen that all the Rapes of Sussex, leading as they did from
-north to south, tended to group themselves round highways from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span>
-Channel to the Thames valley, and Chichester, with its large though
-shallow harbour, certainly did afford an admirable entry into England
-for early navigation; but, once one had made the town, one’s way to
-London and the North lay up the Stane Street, and this Roman road went
-through no populous districts nor through any of those gaps which men
-(after Roman times) would naturally seek for their advance, but went
-straight over the bleak and desolate Downs, and by the time it got to
-the crest of these it was within half an hour’s smart riding of the
-garrison of Arundel. Westward no man would go. The marshes prevented
-him. Neither would he advance northward; he would have found in that
-direction, after crossing the pass at Singleton, a fertile valley indeed
-to raid, but no good opportunity for further progress. Before him would
-have lain the large sandy wastes which began at what is now the Sussex
-border by Fernhurst, and continued right on to the neighbourhood of the
-Thames. They are to-day filling up with villas, but they were,
-throughout the centuries in which our history was made, empty deserts
-yielding no corn and affording no shelter of towns or villages to an
-army. Supposing that an enemy, as for instance a pirate raid of the
-Danes, were</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_050" style="width: 479px;">
-<a href="images/ill_050.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_050.jpg" width="479" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MERMAID STREET, RYE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">ITS ECCLESIASTICAL CHARACTER</div>
-
-<p class="nind">making for the lowlands of the Rother valley, or farther on for the rich
-pastures of the Wey (where later was to spring up the wealth and
-magnificence of Waverley), such a sailors’ raid would certainly have
-proceeded up the Arun and tried to force its way past Amberley Castle.
-It would never have made the attempt through Chichester.</p>
-
-<p>There is, then, a clear topographical and strategical reason for the
-immunity of the Rape of Chichester from military conditions. There is
-also an ecclesiastical reason. It is a thing not to be forgotten, that
-from the fall of the Roman Empire to the Renaissance the contrast
-between the ecclesiastical and the civil method of government was a
-reality. It afforded for men’s minds something of the foil or background
-which to-day the legal aspect of society gives us as against the
-commercial, or the conception of a gentleman as against the conception
-of a rich man. The contrast was, of course, much more vigorous and
-satisfactory than any of our modern contrasts can be. We see it in a
-thousand ways illuminating the history of the Middle Ages; by way of
-sanctuary, by way of the ecclesiastical courts, by way of the atonement
-which men paid for violence when they founded great monasteries, by way
-of the technical absten<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span>tion from capital sentences which the Church
-rigorously preserved. It is not fantastic to ascribe to this cause the
-fact that the Rape of Chichester held no important castle and was the
-site of no great battle. Nor is it ridiculous to imagine that the
-somewhat ungeographical inclusion of the parish of Slindon into the
-hundred of Aldwick, and therefore into the Rape of Chichester, had
-something to do with this ecclesiastical quality. For Slindon was
-Canterbury’s; Stephen Langton died there.</p>
-
-<p>Here, as in the Rape of Arundel, everything within a march of the sea
-was in Doomsday, and the actual entries from the sea are known before
-Doomsday; for example, there is Bosham, from which we have seen that
-Harold sailed on that pleasure trip of his to Normandy. Right up in the
-Downs Doomsday parishes continue, as Singleton, which is the mother of
-West Dean, and lies in the same internal valley or fold of the hills as
-does that other parish of Upper Waltham, which we have already
-discovered to be included in the Doomsday Survey in the Rape of Arundel.
-So with the loam belt to the north of the Downs in this Rape. Graffham
-is in Doomsday, Cocking is in Doomsday, and while Heyshott is not
-actually in</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_051" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_051.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_051.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>SINGLETON</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SCILLY SUSSEX</div>
-
-<p>Doomsday, it is alluded to a little later as Percy Land held of the
-Montgomerys. But once we get into the neighbourhood of the Weald the
-dates fall later. Midhurst is a full borough in the early fourteenth
-century under Edward II., and not before.</p>
-
-<p>The Rape of Chichester is not only the principal ecclesiastical
-influence in the county; it is, one might say with no great
-exaggeration, the only one. By which it is not meant that the Church as
-a whole did not have its full effect in the county; on the contrary, in
-moulding the type of Sussex character the Church had, if possible, a
-greater influence than it had in moulding the character of any other
-county. To this day we talk of “Scilly Sussex,” which means “holy
-Sussex,” just as we talk of “Hampshire hogs” or “Kentish men with
-tails”; and all up and down the soil of the county are to be seen the
-noblest collection of parish churches in England, the proofs of an
-ancient devotion.</p>
-
-<p>But ecclesiastical influence, exercised as an economic power and with
-deliberate intention, is less strong in Sussex during the Middle Ages
-than in any other county. The monasteries were not very numerous, and
-when they were rich (which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> they rarely were) they do not seem to have
-had a very considerable effect upon the life of the county. The towns,
-of course, possessed their monks, as did all the towns of England; Lewes
-had its Benedictines, Arundel its Dominicans, and so forth. But the
-monks who, throughout the west of Europe, reclaimed land, opened up
-empty and uncultivated spaces, and were the pioneers of the mediæval
-civilisation, did nothing for this county on the same scale as they did,
-say, for the North country, or for East Anglia. The reason is plain.
-Sussex was cut off while the earlier part of the monastic effort was at
-work, and was very rapidly developed by a civil influence the moment
-that isolation ceased with the coming of the Normans.</p>
-
-<p>Hardham and Boxgrove are almost the only examples which point by their
-sites to the economic work of the early monasteries, for they both lie
-along one of the old Roman roads; but both of them came comparatively
-late. Boxgrove was founded by the lords of Halnacker under Henry I.,
-Hardham was later still. Robertsbridge, also a development of the
-central Middle Ages, may be cited as an example of the monks opening up
-wild country, but Battle was quite artificial, the result</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_052" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_052.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_052.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>GATEHOUSE, BATTLE ABBEY</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE MONASTERIES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">of a vow paid and of the accidental site of a battle. Moreover, Battle,
-thus artificial, was by far the wealthiest of all. At the time of the
-dissolution Hammond, the last abbot (who surrendered with great
-pusillanimity to Henry VIII., and against whom the gravest charges have
-lain), gave up revenues of £1000 a year in the currency of the
-times&mdash;far more than £10,000 of our money. Boxgrove itself could only
-count about one hundred and fifty pounds.</p>
-
-<p>The priory of Tortington, next to Arundel, is interesting in the history
-of England for reasons already mentioned, but it was not wealthy. Almost
-every other foundation, as the Dominicans of Chichester or Winchelsea,
-or those we have previously noted at Arundel, or the Franciscans of
-Winchester and Lewes, or those near the north gate of Chichester, or the
-Carmelites of New Shoreham, or the Friars of Rye, are connected with
-towns and do not therefore concern the development of the county.</p>
-
-<p>So far we have been dealing with the historic basis upon which Sussex,
-like every other part of England, has been built.</p>
-
-<p>We have seen that upon the prehistoric origin of which we know hardly
-anything came Rome.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span> We have seen that the Italian race laid down the
-bed upon which all the rest was to rise&mdash;a bed, firm, hard, and even,
-like their own concrete. It was a process occupying in this island some
-four hundred years.</p>
-
-<p>Upon Britain, as upon every other western province, fell the barbarian
-invasions of the fifth century. We have seen that they were somewhat
-more severe here than in other provinces, and that Sussex in particular
-was swept clean by them, not indeed of her race, but of her religion and
-her civilisation. The darkness resultant upon this catastrophe lasted
-for little more than a hundred years, but in that hundred years
-everything which gives dignity to mankind had disappeared, and the
-countryside, from Romney Marsh westward away to Chichester Haven, had
-gone savage. We have seen that it was slowly re-Christianised and
-recivilised, but that the planting of good stems upon such a devastated
-soil was for long a difficult and an unfruitful business. The mission of
-St. Wilfrid coincides with the close of the eighth century. It is not
-till the middle of the eleventh that Sussex really re-enters the
-European unity; it is not till the close of it that the influence of
-that unity begins to be largely felt after the Norman Conquest.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_053" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_053.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_053.jpg" width="600" height="413" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>WINCHELSEA MILL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE RISE OF THE SQUIRES</div>
-
-<p>Two hundred and fifty years pass, during which the social development of
-England and of Sussex keeps the main lines laid down by the Conquest;
-the central government is still strong, the conception of tenure still
-weighs upon the wealthy class, and all men are responsible somewhere to
-some lord. Briefly, the mediæval system is during that period alive;
-here, as in northern France. And this island and northern France form,
-between them, until the close of the thirteenth century, the heart of
-Christendom. It is in them that arise the great philosophic discussions
-of the new universities, the Gothic architecture, the feudal scheme, the
-true co-operative industry of the mediæval manor.</p>
-
-<p>For as long as that society could endure, that society was organised;
-and in Sussex the organisation, or, to use a better word, the sense of
-authority, is to be discovered in the great “Rape” overlordships,
-Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes, Bramber, Arundel, and Chichester, whose
-growth has been already sketched.</p>
-
-<p>It so happened that that mediæval system grew old and failed.</p>
-
-<p>The period of time between its failure and the present day is
-comparatively short, as the history of mankind goes. Its break-down is
-only apparent to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> the historian with the middle of the fourteenth
-century; it is not suspected by its own victims till the middle of the
-fifteenth. We are to-day but in the beginning of the twentieth. It may
-be said, roughly, that four hundred years of change alone separate us
-from that organic unity which had survived for fifteen hundred years
-from the civilisation that the Mediterranean brought us. We feel a world
-away from that organic unity of the Middle Ages, because these last four
-centuries have been so full of an active intelligence and of an
-increasing material knowledge, that these take up nearly the whole
-horizon of our minds; but our detachment is but apparent and illusory.
-At bottom our morals, in so far as they are permanent, our conception of
-civic life, our modern appetite for economic justice, are all rooted in
-the Middle Ages; and the more a modern man learns of them the more he
-feels that they are his native place.</p>
-
-<p>The process of disintegration which the mediæval system suffered took in
-Britain a peculiar form, and in this most typical district of Britain,
-in Sussex, that form is clearly to be traced. The village, which was the
-unit of mediæval life, was essentially co-operative. As the segregation
-of individual industry arose, either the lord was certain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE RISE OF THE SQUIRES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">to become, from the head official of a corporation, a proprietor of the
-whole, or the villein, his tenant, was bound to become, from a member of
-a co-operative society, a proprietor of his part. There was not room for
-both. Elsewhere, in all northern France, and to some extent in the
-valley of the Rhine, the break-up of the mediæval system is the attack
-of the peasant upon his lord. It is (spread over a much longer period)
-something like the campaign which the Irish have inaugurated in our own
-time. It is a movement towards peasant proprietorship.</p>
-
-<p>In England the development is very different. Feudalism in England, even
-when it was highly organised, as in Sussex, had to fight against a force
-which is almost inherent in the soil. For that force it is difficult to
-find a name, though it is a tendency clearly observable in the whole of
-English history. It may, perhaps, best be defined as the tendency of the
-English village group to submit to one lord, <i>coupled with the lack of
-any tendency among these lords to coalesce under a superior</i>. The system
-is essentially oligarchic, and its foundations were laid in the natural
-crystallisation of society during the anarchy of the Anglo-Saxon
-centuries. With his inheritance of law weakened, and his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span> memory of a
-protecting government destroyed, the small man had not the wit or the
-courage to fight against the big man; hence the English squire. The big
-men had not the necessity forced upon them to unite in defence of an
-antique civilisation and a strong Roman tradition; hence the permanent
-insecurity and ultimate abasement of the English monarchy.</p>
-
-<p>The latter of these two forces you see at work continually in the
-history of England during that space which lies between the Norman
-Conquest and the Barons’ Wars, when the attempt to govern from a centre
-was made and failed. The village aristocracy is always stronger than the
-Crown, and in some sense expresses a national action against the Crown.
-At first this aristocracy merely supported the barons (who were their
-nominal overlords) in the joint attack upon monarchy, but as the
-centuries pass the overlords themselves lose their hegemony. At last,
-round about the period of the Reformation, the lords of single manors,
-the squires, become completely independent, and their final, wholly
-successful effort matures when the Tudors are no longer there with their
-violent personalities to defend the symbol, the remaining symbol, of a
-central authority.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_054" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_054.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_054.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>GLYNDE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125">{125}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX FAMILIES</div>
-
-<p>The Stuarts break down. The squires arm. The Crown is defeated. A king
-is beheaded. From thence onward a process which was easily apparent in
-the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, which had taken on strength with
-the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth, which had become of
-further importance with the large transfers of land at the end of
-Elizabeth’s reign, is completed. The seventeenth century sees in Sussex,
-as throughout England, the final victory of the village landlords, their
-complete possession of the soil and of the people who dwell upon it, and
-their complete independence from any authority over them.</p>
-
-<p>There are many brief historical surveys which illustrate the rise of the
-landed families. Among the easiest for a general reader to take, and
-also the most instructive, is the list of the public offices of the
-county. We have a fairly complete calendar of the sheriffs from the
-purely feudal times to our own, and there we may trace the dignity
-falling more and more into the hands of county men. The local patriotism
-and its result, the strong local oligarchy, which are between them the
-warp and the woof of England, are exhibited here at one glance. The
-names mentioned are not always those of sheriffs for Sussex alone,
-especially in the earlier<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126">{126}</a></span> times; but their names and their places of
-origin are significant.</p>
-
-<p>We begin that list not quite a hundred years after the Conquest, in the
-reign of Henry II. The names are drawn from all over England. They are
-merely royal officers and they do not concern us. But as the Middle Ages
-come to their end, the names which we can identify as those of the local
-gentry begin to tell. You get, just at the beginning of the Wars of the
-Roses, the Ashburnhams and the Stricklands. In Edward IV.’s reign you
-find for the first time a Goring (who was then not even a knight). You
-get the Gainsfords of Crowhurst, and the Coombes (honoured name!),
-presumably of Coombes in the vale of the Adur. Just before the
-Reformation the Oxenbridges of Brede and the Dawtreys of Petworth, who
-founded Hardham Priory, and whose name proceeds from the high banks
-(“d’Haute Rive”) of the water meadows of Arun. You get again that good
-Sussex name, the Palmers of Angmering, and so on to the Civil Wars.
-There are further Gorings and Morleys, also a Glynde, and, just before
-the struggle, a bishop a knight of Parham.</p>
-
-<p>It is after the Restoration, of course, when the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_055" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_055.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_055.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>ANGMERING MILL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127">{127}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX FAMILIES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">victory of the squires was complete and final, that the habit becomes
-fixed, and that you find (until quite recent times) nothing but Sussex
-names in the great roll of the sheriffs. There is a sort of gap under
-William and Mary, who were usurpers and disturbed the order of England;
-but with Anne reasonable things returned. The names of Blunt and Shelley
-appear, which still adorn the county; and under the Hanoverians, the
-Bartelotts of Stopham, and many another family which still holds land
-within the centre and in the west of the county, are to be found upon
-the rolls.</p>
-
-<p>Not until the Reform Bill does the tradition begin to change. Then you
-find a Curzon coming in out of nowhere; and since then, one must dare
-say, many another man who is simply rich, and who simply happens to have
-settled upon Sussex land.</p>
-
-<p>We may now turn to examine in detail those Sussex families which have
-become bound up with the history of the county; some of them originally
-territorial; some of them professional, acquiring wealth in their
-professions, and achieving territorial rank; many of them passing from
-one part of the county to another, but all remaining a true framework
-for the countryside.</p>
-
-<p>Alongside with them we shall be able to trace<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128">{128}</a></span> a most deplorable
-vicissitude in the ownership of certain manors which has, most
-unfortunately, not ceased to-day, but has rather increased, and which
-very seriously menaces the future integrity of the county.</p>
-
-<p>It is impossible, of course, to give a complete survey of the process in
-these few pages, but the consideration of a few typical manors and,
-after that, of a few typical families will suffice to fill in that
-general impression of the county which it is the object of this book to
-convey.</p>
-
-<p>Consider, for example, the Manor of Cuckfield, and see the way in which
-the squirearchy develops. One may presume that throughout the true
-Middle Ages it preserved at least a semblance of depending upon the
-overlordship of the Rape, and the Fitz Alans can count themselves its
-masters.</p>
-
-<p>But as the Lancastrian usurpation breaks the great families a local
-consideration comes in. In the eighteenth year of Henry VI. the manor
-was divided between four co-heiresses, and so remained divided into four
-pieces (each still held by great families, but each holding the germ of
-a future squire in its small limits), until the last half of the
-sixteenth century, when two men, Bowyer and Covert, introduce (in the
-sixteenth and twenty-third</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_056" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_056.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_056.jpg" width="600" height="414" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>NEAR HARDHAM</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129">{129}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">GRAFFHAM AND LAVINGTON</div>
-
-<p class="nind">years of Elizabeth respectively) a new stock upon the old land.</p>
-
-<p>Within a hundred years there comes in one Sigerson, perhaps of the
-middle class, a Commissioner of the Navy; he buys the estate, his family
-hold it throughout the eighteenth century, and are the principal owners
-at this day.</p>
-
-<p>This tendency of lands to remain in the same hands till the close of the
-Middle Ages, and then to be bought up by a new race of squires, may be
-traced in many another parish. There is Graffham, which does not change
-hands until after the Armada, when a certain Garter of London buys it;
-it then passes by the marriage of an heiress to the first of the
-Sargeants; an heiress of the Sargeants after many generations marries
-the man who was afterwards Cardinal Manning; another heiress (by this
-time the family held Lavington close by) marries Wilberforce, the
-bishop, and, right in our own time, his son sells it to a Scotch
-distiller.</p>
-
-<p>Or consider again Madehurst which, until the reign of Elizabeth, holds
-of the Arundel earls; then one Dixse has it in fee; then it passes to
-the Kemps, and they sell it to Sir George Thomas (whose family sold it
-again), after which it passes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130">{130}</a></span> by a second sale in 1825 to John Smith;
-and at last we see it in the middle and end of the nineteenth century in
-the hands of a manufacturing family who had chosen to assume the ancient
-name of Fletcher.</p>
-
-<p>Eartham (to quote another example) went to King Henry VIII. in exchange
-for Michelham Priory; in the middle of the eighteenth century a
-Chichester man bought it, one Hayley; a generation later, Huskisson, the
-politician; then the Milbankes; and then again, quite recently, a man
-whose name is connected with a custard powder.</p>
-
-<p>Singleton went down traditionally until the Reformation; nay, till that
-year after the Armada, when Graffham also had slipped; then, in 1589, it
-changes hands, passing from a noble to a squire. It remained in his
-family till the beginning of the eighteenth century; it is sold and
-re-sold, passing from hand to hand. Within present memory first a
-squire, and then a northern Quaker, and at last a wealthy racing family
-have held it, one after the other.</p>
-
-<p>As might be imagined, the Church lands, their lineage abruptly torn
-apart at the Reformation, suffered fates even more revolutionary, and
-produced a squirearchy even more tenacious by its</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_057" style="width: 456px;">
-<a href="images/ill_057.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_057.jpg" width="456" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MICKLEHAM PRIORY</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">{131}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">NEWTIMBER</div>
-
-<p class="nind">wealth, and even less attached by tradition to the county of Sussex.
-Thus Newtimber, which had come down from Doomsday, is seized by Thomas
-Cromwell. The King chucks it to Anne of Cleves; then you find a Darrell
-in possession; then a Bellingham (holding of Lord Abergavenney in the
-sixteenth year of Charles I.) It is left to one Woodcock, whose
-daughter, after the Restoration, marries a Cust; and then, following the
-universal fate, it is sold to a yeoman of Poynings, one Osborne, whose
-grandson in 1741 sells it to a Newnham, whose grandson, again, early in
-the last century, sells it to a Gordon, etc.</p>
-
-<p>An historian might make many exceptions. The fortified places have most
-of them held out (as it is their nature to hold out) against change. We
-have already pointed out that Bramber and Arundel have had a continuous
-tenure. Bosham goes right down from the confiscation after the Conquest
-to the nineteenth century without alienation. But take Sussex land as a
-whole: the sixteenth century first and the Restoration afterwards have
-dug an impassable gulf.</p>
-
-<p>It is pleasant for those who love certitude to pass from such
-vicissitudes to something allied to the tradition of the land, but more
-permanent than<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132">{132}</a></span> it: the tradition of the owners of the land. It is
-pleasant to note the continuity of certain Sussex families, their
-origin, and their grip upon the soil.</p>
-
-<p>Thus the Shelleys have not only glorified Sussex by producing at the end
-of their line her chief poet, but have also welded themselves into the
-soil of this happy county.</p>
-
-<p>Shelley, whose great name might almost add something to the splendour of
-the land upon which he was born, will be remembered because that birth
-of his was next to Horsham. The story of his family will show how widely
-it was spread over Sussex land, and how worthy it was of inheriting such
-skies and such a landscape as could produce a master of verse.</p>
-
-<p>The name, oddly enough, is from Kent; indeed there has been, since the
-centuries after the Conquest, a continual movement westward from Kent
-into Sussex of which the Shelleys are but one example.</p>
-
-<p>Long before family names arose, while men were still called by their
-Christian names and their land was mentioned after them, the men of
-Shelley in Kent were lords of Shelley. They were there in the end of the
-thirteenth century, they were there until the middle of the fourteenth;
-at that epoch</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_058" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_058.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_058.jpg" width="600" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE MERMAID INN, RYE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133">{133}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SHELLEYS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">one John Shelley went westward, for the good of England. The Lancastrian
-usurpation, that watershed in our social history, is apparent here. John
-Shelley is returned for the Commons of Rye, just after Agincourt. He had
-a son who went still farther west, and, coming to Mitchegrove, married
-the daughter and the heiress of the lord of that place, a certain John,
-who took his name, as was right, from his own land. This settlement of
-the family endured through the Reformation. After this latter date the
-Shelleys marry into Buckhurst; still further on before the Civil Wars
-they exchange their Warwickshire lands for further Sussex holdings; in
-the eighteenth century one finds them marrying into Maresfield. Already
-they had a hold upon Findon. Up on St. Leonard’s Forest you find their
-name in one of the first of the ploughed lands which open that deserted
-belt, and they remain to-day Sussex in name, place, and position.</p>
-
-<p>To take but one other example, and that of a very different kind, the
-Blunts of Crabbet Park are Sussex, though of a later stock. Here also we
-have a westward movement coming in with the last migration of the
-squires. For Thomas Blunt (a Collector of Customs in Kent) had a
-grandson, Elyas, fixed at Bolney; his name is not without<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134">{134}</a></span> significance
-of the time in which he lived. This man married the heiress of New
-Buildings after the Restoration, and perhaps in the Civil Wars the
-family acquired those waste spaces of the Crown which now make up the
-larger part of their holdings. At any rate that family has produced at
-the end of its line to-day another poet, and again a poet of Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>The list might be multiplied, but it will be of little purpose to
-develop it in so short a summary as this. It is our purpose rather to
-show how, until quite recent years, Sussex lands ran into the hands of a
-group of families who perpetually interchanged their holdings, and who
-yet remained full of the county air, until there came that modern
-diversion by which so much of the county has fallen to those who have
-nothing of its spirit, and who only come into it as into a sort of park,
-for their momentary pleasure.</p>
-
-<p>For until the last two generations nothing was more tenacious than the
-Sussex squire to his soil. Long after the Reform Bill, nay, right into
-our own time, Sussex land was not sold to outsiders, and Sussex social
-conservatism was unbroken. The moral health of its villages was keen and
-singular; the squire was of no excessive wealth, the farmer</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_059" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_059.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_059.jpg" width="600" height="353" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BURY CHURCH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135">{135}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SUSSEX JUST PAST</div>
-
-<p class="nind">securing his tenancy, the labourer glad of his wage, and living on from
-grandfather to grandson, secure also of his position in the village. The
-old arts, which are the test of vitality in any commonwealth,
-survived&mdash;to this day there are villages where the thatcher can thatch
-as he can in no other part of England; for instance, in Walberton he can
-do so. To this day Sussex retains in some of her remoter hamlets, for
-instance in Bury, the true Broadcast Sower.</p>
-
-<p>There is a phase of English history which all lovers of England look
-back upon with regret; it is a phase whose complete literary expression
-is to be found in Gray’s Elegy; it was in the purpose of whatever guides
-this county that such a phase should not be very long-lived, but while
-it lasted perhaps the happiness of the English countrysides was higher
-than it had been before within our historical memory, or will be again
-within the limits of our continuous tradition. Of this happiness it can
-be almost proved that Sussex presented the chief example, but just
-because the county had reached such a goal it was destined to a measure
-of change.</p>
-
-<p>When Sussex had fallen into what seemed a permanent phase of large
-agricultural estates, held<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136">{136}</a></span> by the most contented gentry and tenantry in
-England, there fell upon this state of affairs a foretaste of what was
-to happen throughout the county with the great economic revolution of
-the nineteenth century; a great town began to arise and to grow with
-startling rapidity in one devoted portion of the countryside.</p>
-
-<p>It is curious that Sussex, whose character and whose pleasure it has
-always been to live its own life, and to stand apart from the
-development of the rest of the island, or at least to develop only after
-the rest of the island has made its particular experiments, and has
-proved its experiments wise,&mdash;it is curious that Sussex should in this
-one case, and that a most important one, have gone before the rest of
-England. For Sussex was the county to develop the great watering-places
-and the great centres of population (as apart from the centres of
-industry) which first created, then were so vastly increased by, the
-railway system.</p>
-
-<p>The reason is, of course, not far to seek. Sussex possessed the nearest
-coast-line to London, and presented that coast in an aspect most
-attractive to Londoners.</p>
-
-<p>No very considerable harbours disfigure it. The trade with France was
-not a trade of such a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">{137}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE WATERING TOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">volume as that which has created Liverpool or long ago created Bristol.
-It was a busy, small agricultural trade.</p>
-
-<p>Again, all along the coastal plain there is a beach; and a beach, when
-people once begin to take their pleasure by the sea, is a necessity for
-that pleasure.</p>
-
-<p>Again, the line to this coast was close and direct. Every one who has
-bicycled or walked from London to the Kentish shores knows what a
-different task it is compared to a half-day’s run to the South
-Coast&mdash;the Sussex Coast is the “South Coast” for London, and the only
-one.</p>
-
-<p>The first town to be developed in this manner was Brighton, and Brighton
-was not so much created by the fashion of the Prince Regent as by the
-fact of its proximity to London. It is the nearest point which Londoners
-can reach when they desire to enjoy the sea. It grew up in a manner to
-be paralleled nowhere else in England.</p>
-
-<p>There are other characters in connection with the extension of this
-great town far more remarkable than the rapidity of its growth or the
-vastness of its population, as, for example, that it has affected to so
-slight a degree the neighbouring country around it; still the
-contemporaries of its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138">{138}</a></span> growth were more struck by its rapidity than by
-any other feature. It began as a fishing town of 2000 souls. At the
-close of the last century it already counted 5000, in the year 1850 it
-measured 40,000&mdash;all this before the railway. When the effect of the
-railway was at its height, before the common use of the bicycle or the
-motor car, the development of Brighton was the most characteristically
-modern impress which the nineteenth century had made upon the landscape
-and nature of the county. It retains this pre-eminence in our own
-generation, but in a degree which is very probably to be lessened.</p>
-
-<p>Somewhat later the other coast towns began to develop, and so long as
-the railway controlled that development, their growth was regular and
-almost according to a set law. Fashion or the doctors would recommend
-some point upon the coast. The long coastal railway from Brighton to
-Portsmouth afforded a station at the place, and the town increased in
-regular fashion, not with the station as the centre, but as the point
-from which branches spread out to the sea, so that these towns all more
-or less resemble a tree spreading from the railway station, and trippers
-hurrying from that station to the beach are like the deployment of a
-regiment<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139">{139}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE WATERING TOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">from column into line. These towns are, of course, stretched out along
-the beach; for their separate and successive organisation, the continual
-presence behind them of the coastal plain, with its railway parallel to
-the shore, has afforded admirable opportunities. That plain from
-Brighton to Bosham is perfectly flat; the crossing of the rivers has
-presented the only obstacle, and that obstacle was insignificant. The
-railway could run pretty well in a straight line and build up the towns
-along the sea.</p>
-
-<p>Even to-day the villages are linking up with the towns. Rustington is
-full of bricks. Rottingdean, for twenty years a sort of suburb, has now
-long been full of painters and others. A curious collection of bungalows
-has sprung up on the long pebbly beach which shuts out the Adur from the
-sea. Opposite these barracks lies Lancing; and even upon the extremity
-of old Selsea a new settlement, now nourished by a light railway from
-Chichester, is arising. At Seaford, which is saved a little by its
-hills, the same attempt at rapid building is made.</p>
-
-<p>There is one feature in this string of houses all along the coast of the
-county which Sussex men note with a pleasure not unmixed with malice. It
-is this, that while places of absolutely no com<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140">{140}</a></span>mercial use and of no
-historical importance in the growth of the county are thus gradually
-being turned into appendages of London (so that all the way from Beachy
-Head to Chichester Harbour you have within the space of some fifty miles
-at least sixteen miles of houses), yet the places characteristically
-Sussex, the places upon the sea-line, which have gone to the building up
-of the county, and in which the population naturally gathered, continue
-to resist with extraordinary tenacity.</p>
-
-<p>You can do nothing with Newhaven except leave it a port. Littlehampton
-refuses to be the pleasure ground that its landlord desires it to be.
-Bosham is still the ancient harbour and village which its history
-demands that it should be. Shoreham will not consent to become a lesser
-Worthing or a second Brighton, and this is the more remarkable from the
-fact that these harbour towns and villages are geographically more in
-touch with London than those other towns whose special character it is
-to lie sheltered by the hills and far from the gaps by which a railway
-could approach them from the north.</p>
-
-<p>One may discover precisely the same state of affairs upon the eastern
-coast of the county<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141">{141}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE WATERING TOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">beyond Beachy Head. Here, for example, is the enormous development of
-Eastbourne, in a place which was useless for sailors, but sheltered from
-the winds by the neighbouring hill. Bexhill has increased along a beach
-which was not used until speculation had built the new town. Pevensey
-between them, upon its flat inland, is still deserted.</p>
-
-<p>To this list Hastings is a very considerable exception, because its
-beach and hill made it during the Middle Ages, and for very different
-reasons to-day, a necessary sea-town. But, with the exception of
-Hastings, every other town follows a general rule, that the new growth
-of watering-places along the south coast is extraneous.</p>
-
-<p>This long series of new towns grates upon men who have known and loved
-the county throughout their lives. There is little of Sussex about them;
-they have not the Sussex method of building nor any of the Sussex
-industries. Even their permanent population is largely drawn from other
-parts of England, and you do not hear the full warm accent of the south
-country often enough in their streets. The only consolation which the
-county can give itself as it watches this increasing line of new
-buildings is that, a mile or two behind them, their very presence seems
-to be forgotten.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142">{142}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>A closer observer has another consolation, which is that the new methods
-of communication are perhaps beginning to check the tendency which
-existed throughout the nineteenth century to over-populate the sea
-coast. If men, foreign to the place, are trying to spoil the Weald, at
-least they are applying a counter-irritant to their too great success in
-spoiling the coastal plain, and in the Weald they have a larger area
-over which to spread their limited faculties for evil.</p>
-
-<p>It is even possible that the power which the county has shown itself
-possessed of for so many centuries to digest and to absorb new-comers,
-will save it altogether from these latter invasions&mdash;possible, but
-doubtful. Then the descendants of those who now own Brighton, Worthing,
-and the rest, the children of the men who build villas on Crowboro’ top,
-and the heirs of the new-comers who have purchased, one would think, at
-least a third of the great old houses under the Downs, will be worthy of
-the soil which their ancestors certainly did not understand, and the
-historical development of Sussex will continue.</p>
-
-<p>It is more likely that that development has already come to an
-unfruitful end.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_060" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_060.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_060.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>FITTLEWORTH WATER MILL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143">{143}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III"></a>PART III<br /><br />
-THE INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER OF SUSSEX AND THE WAY TO SEE THE COUNTY</h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> efforts which many have made to describe a peculiar Sussex dialect
-and peculiar Sussex methods of architecture, have been somewhat too
-laborious. The example of other counties, notably of Devonshire, which
-did possess a strictly defined local dialect and set of customs, has
-tempted the patriotic historian of Sussex to find in that county
-something which is not there. There is, indeed, a South country way of
-speaking as all the world knows. It is to be found in the valley of
-Meon, and it is to be found in Kent, and it is to be found in the
-southern parts of Surrey. It occupies a large region, whose boundaries
-are very vague and ill defined; it lies, roughly speaking, between the
-North Downs and the sea, and is bounded westward by the New Forest. It
-is not peculiar to the county of Sussex.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144">{144}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>For example: A Sussex man will call a woodpecker a “yaffle,” which is a
-name taken from its peculiar call&mdash;it is for all the world like a mad
-laugh. Or again, he will talk of “steening a well,” that is, lining it
-with bricks. Or again, he will call a toad stool a “puck” stool. He will
-speak of a ploughshare as a “tourn vour,” that is, a “turn furrow”; and
-so forth. But these phrases are to be heard all up and down the district
-which I have mentioned. And the termination of place names, the peculiar
-epithet by which a steep wood is called a “hanger,” or a horseshoe
-depression in the Downs a “coombe,” though very Sussex, are not only
-Sussex.</p>
-
-<p>So it is with the South country architecture, notably with the building
-of those fine “headed” chimneys which are its distinguishing feature.
-You will find them all along the valley of the Medway and of the
-Derwent, or the Stour, as much as you will find them in the valleys of
-the Arun or the Adur.</p>
-
-<p>It is not in the establishment of a Sussex folklore, dialect, or
-architecture, that the peculiar and individual spirit of the county is
-best discovered. It is rather in the character of its inhabitants. And
-this again is fairly sharply divided between the eastern half of the
-county and the western.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_061" style="width: 520px;">
-<a href="images/ill_061.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_061.jpg" width="520" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HIGH STREET, EAST GRINSTEAD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145">{145}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">EFFECT OF THE IRONSTONE</div>
-
-<p>The East of Sussex, it seems fair to conjecture, has always been
-influenced by the presence of iron. The iron is no longer worked, but
-anywhere in the higher parts of the Eastern Weald one finds one’s self
-treading upon ironstone, and one sees the streams running red with the
-ore, and until so late as the Napoleonic Wars the exploitation of Sussex
-iron was continued. It is perhaps on account of this tradition and its
-effect upon the inhabitants that East Sussex has, as contrasted with
-West, a livelier, and (in the impression of the West) a less pleasing
-manner. Though it is farther from London in actual distance, it is
-nearer London in feeling. The proximity of Kent, with its great
-international highroad running through the heart of it, may have
-something to do with this. So also has the early clearing of the forest,
-and therefore the early establishment of free communication with the
-Thames valley. This feature we have already touched on in the
-development of Pevensey and Hastings Rapes. But whatever be the cause,
-the effect is apparent to those who know the county. One very curious
-result of it to-day is the difference in the modern settlement of East
-Sussex and of West. The new-comers with their villas and their great
-search for something old, that they may<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146">{146}</a></span> destroy it by their admiration,
-have different chances in the two parts of the county. In the West they
-can form, as it were, islands which stand alone in the midst of a highly
-resisting environment. They will build you a Haywards Heath which is
-like a London suburb, or a Ditchling or a Burgess Hill which is another
-such line of new houses, or those towns on the sea coast of which we
-have spoken, or the little group of red brick which defaces the
-landscape of West Horsham, or the lump which is beginning to destroy
-Barnham. But these encampments are tied close to the railway; they do
-not seem to spread their influence over the landscape or to change the
-character of the people in any way.</p>
-
-<p>In East Sussex you get, on the contrary, whole belts of country into
-which the spirit of the great towns has penetrated, perhaps for ever.
-Thus there is such a belt in the line of Rotherfield, Mayfield, and
-Heathfield. There is another stretch east and west from the height of
-Heathfield to the valley of the Rother, and notably in a village which
-we have already mentioned for its bad eminence in this
-respect&mdash;Burwash&mdash;which is just such a place as the Londoner or the
-Colonial calls “old world.” It is a village now only too conscious</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_062" style="width: 447px;">
-<a href="images/ill_062.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_062.jpg" width="447" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>COTTAGES AT MAYFIELD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147">{147}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX PEASANT</div>
-
-<p class="nind">of such a character and ready to exploit it for all it is worth. You
-have another example of this blight upon the top of Crowborough, which
-might as well be Hazlemere or Hindhead for all the South country feeling
-that is left to it.</p>
-
-<p>The resistant quality of which we have just made mention, and which is
-especially discoverable in the western part of the county, is perhaps
-the most remarkable and, under modern circumstances, the most pleasing
-of the characteristics of the people. To those who have not been brought
-up in the county it becomes but slowly apparent. Those who know Sussex
-and its people take a somewhat cynical delight in observing that power
-at work. There is no peasant in the world so rooted in his customs and
-so determined to maintain them as is the Sussex peasant. He has been
-despoiled of his lands; he has been exploited by farmers from every
-other county, who come to use his rich belts of loam; he has been
-virtually bought or sold by families utterly out of the Sussex tradition
-(the Wyndhams, for example), or what is worse, Colonials and random rich
-men who make themselves great by the purchase of an ancient estate with
-whose traditional history they have not the remotest sympathy. He is,
-one would say, without defences<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">{148}</a></span> against the modern world. But the
-modern world, as it is represented by the chance rich men who are now
-his masters, will very soon learn that the pressure of that proletariat
-is too much for them and not they for it. A Sussex man will not plant
-early. You may pay him to do so, and if you pay him enough he will do so
-once or twice; but before you have your garden many years, you will find
-he is planting again at his accustomed dates. He will not use silos. You
-may prove to him in a thousand ways that he would be the richer for
-using them. You may pay him as your servant such a wage that he may
-begin using them, but his abhorrence of a new method of that sort will
-express itself in the result, that you will lose a great deal of money
-by your experiment. He will hatch no eggs in an incubator, he will keep
-no bees in a new-fangled hive. He will give his pigs too much barley
-meal if he can get it, and will remark when he has done so that pigs do
-not really pay. He will bargain in his traditional fashion if you send
-him to market, and you will not by any payment or pressure cause him to
-express dissent in any other manner than by silence.</p>
-
-<p>It will be of interest to watch the near future and to see if his
-characteristics can be retained as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149">{149}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SUSSEX PRONUNCIATION</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the county gets better and better known, and more thoroughly spoiled by
-the advent of what is called the leisured class. So far those who have
-been able to watch this peasant for the last thirty years have seen very
-little change indeed. And even the noble and rich south country accent,
-which education was to have destroyed, is as perfect in the little
-children of the last few years as in the mouths of the oldest men. And
-that peculiar emphasis upon the latter syllable&mdash;Amber<i>ley</i>,
-Billings<i>hurst</i>, and the rest&mdash;has not disappeared, at least in the
-western half of the county.</p>
-
-<p>A test may be applied by those who care to watch the progress of social
-disease and the resisting power of a social organism. Throughout the
-county the termination “ham” is kept separate, as though by a hyphen,
-from the first part of a place-name. For example: Bosham is pronounced
-Boz-ham or Boss-ham. To be accurate, the sound is a little between “s”
-and “z,” but the “ham” is kept quite distinct. Or again, the name of
-Felpham, near Bognor (where William Blake indulged his eccentricities),
-is pronounced Felp-ham. Now it is evident that in many cases where a “t”
-or an “s” or a “p” comes before “h,” any one not acquainted with this
-local method of pronouncing the words would run the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150">{150}</a></span> two consonants
-together, and would pronounce Bosham “Bo<i>sh</i>-am,” or Felpham
-“Fel<i>f</i>-am.” Horsham has already broken down. Two generations ago
-everybody called the town Hors-ham. It became a considerable railway
-station. Many were led to read the name who had never heard of the
-little county town until the railway was built. Its own inhabitants did
-not defend the traditional pronunciation with sufficient vigour, and
-Hor<i>sh</i>-’m it has now fallen to be in spite of the most vigorous efforts
-of those who love their county to restore its original and significant
-name, and in spite of the fact that a horse even in Horsham is not yet a
-Horsh. If Bosham, Felpham, and the rest go in the same way, then one may
-take it that Sussex will not be Sussex any more. The test is small, but
-it is absolutely determining.</p>
-
-<p>After the characteristic Sussex manner there should be considered the
-characteristic Sussex landscape. This has been dealt with at some length
-in various parts of the book when we were speaking of the Downs, the
-Weald, and the coastal plain, and of particular towns. But we will here
-consider it by itself as a mark of the county.</p>
-
-<p>There are two elements in the landscape of Sussex, the first of which is
-more permanent than any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151">{151}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE MAIN LANDSCAPE</div>
-
-<p class="nind">other similar character, perhaps, in England; the second of which is
-more changeable than most. It is not easy to give a name to these
-separate elements, but with the one are connected the emotions aroused
-by the great views which Sussex presents, and with the other are
-connected the emotions aroused by its hollow and secluded places, those
-little isolated hills of sand and their small lonely valleys.</p>
-
-<p>The great spaces of landscape which Sussex can afford have never changed
-and never can. No man will ever build largely upon the Downs. No forest
-will ever gather on so valuable a soil as that of the coastal plain. No
-mere extension of buildings or further cultivation will destroy the
-distant aspect of the Weald.</p>
-
-<p>A man looking down from the crest of the Downs to the south and to the
-north of him sees much of what his ancestry have seen since men first
-stood upon those hills. The Weald was once a little denser in wood, the
-coastal plain a little less thick with villages, but that is all. The
-high, broad belt of the sea has always made a frame for that view. The
-flooded river valleys have always picked it out with patches of silver.
-The roll of the Downs has always stood, like a monstrous green wave,
-blown forward before the south-west wind. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152">{152}</a></span> simple and vivid green of
-the turf, and the sharp white chalk pits, have always stood making the
-same contrast with the sky and the large sailing clouds; and they will
-continue to do so for ever.</p>
-
-<p>A Sussex man recognises his home when he sees it from the height above
-Eden Bridge, or from Crowborough top as he enters the county from the
-north or from the Surrey hills; he knows it when, as he gazes
-southwards, he catches along the horizon the dark wall of the Downs. The
-outline is not to be confounded with any other in the world, and these
-few simple planes of vision build up for him the major pleasures which
-the landscape of his county can afford. They have not changed in the
-past and they will not change in the future.</p>
-
-<p>With the homelands, with the little valleys and the sandy rocks of the
-Weald, and the hills between the foot-hills of the southern side of the
-Downs, the case is different.</p>
-
-<p>What the original aspect of these hollows with their clayey or sandy
-knolls on either side may have been in the beginnings of the county it
-is now very difficult to conjecture. They are certainly among the very
-first of its inhabited places, and it is perhaps most accurate to think
-of them as little packed groups of huts along the</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_063" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_063.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_063.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>CROWBOROUGH HEATH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">{153}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE PINES</div>
-
-<p class="nind">stream which almost invariably flows beneath the small steep hillside,
-these huts surrounded by the pasture of the small pastoral community,
-and on the upland above by long stretches of open furze and fern. It is
-probable that the wooding of the knolls came later, and it is remarkable
-that there is very little ancient plough land in the neighbourhood of
-most of these villages. Within the last few hundred years their general
-aspect has completely changed through the introduction of the pine.</p>
-
-<p>Along the whole belt of sand from Elsted right away to the valley of the
-Ouse you get bunches of this tree, making a peculiar note in the
-landscape; and the same is true of the forest ridge to the north.</p>
-
-<p>It is not easy to determine at what date this foreign timber first
-invaded the county. It is certainly not Roman, and almost certainly it
-was not to be discovered in Sussex during the sixteenth century. The
-Elizabethan cottage of the Weald has oak for its material, and this not
-only on account of the strength of such wood, but obviously because it
-was the cheapest and commonest kind of timber; for instance, the thin
-lathes or strips to which the smallest tiles are affixed are of oak in
-the old houses as much as are the tie beams and the main rafters. We
-should hardly find this if the pine had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154">{154}</a></span> present in Sussex during
-that great period of activity in domestic building; for the wood of the
-pine was far easier to split and to work where great strength was not
-required. It is thought by some that the tree came in, with all other
-Scotch things, in the time of James I. But it must be repeated, the
-point is undetermined. At any rate it has completely transformed the
-details of the landscape between the Surrey border and the Downs. There
-is, in the present day, no more peculiarly Sussex view than the sight of
-the bare line of the Downs caught in a framework of firs. For instance,
-such a fine sight as you get of them at Heyshott from the height that
-was once Cobden’s land, or the wonderful bit close by between Selham and
-Burton. It is from a hill isolated and covered with this kind of timber
-near Hardham that the best view of the Arun valley may be obtained, and
-so forth all along the line from which at various points one may regard
-the range of the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>A third and characteristic aspect of Sussex is, of course, that great
-stretch of the coastal plain to which so much allusion has been made
-that we need not emphasise it here: the sole impression of the county
-which those retain who have known it from a residence at Goring, at
-Lancing, at Findon, at</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_064" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_064.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_064.jpg" width="600" height="388" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>RYE, FROM CAMBER</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155">{155}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">MONOTONY OF THE COAST</div>
-
-<p>Arundel, at Slindon, at Eartham, or indeed at any of the villages built
-upon the southern foot-hills of the Downs. It may be mentioned in
-connection with this part of the county, that of all maritime districts
-possessed of remarkable inland scenery Sussex is the least to be
-remembered by those who have seen it from the sea. The Downs slope up so
-gradually, the line of the coast is so flat, and the reek of the coastal
-towns, though slight, so continuous, that the general impression a man
-has who runs along even upon a clear day from Rye harbour, let us say,
-to the Looe Stream inside the Owers, thus covering the whole stretch of
-the county coast, is one of monotony. The Downs make no impression upon
-the view to landwards, save at one place where, for ten miles or so from
-Eastbourne to Newhaven, one runs along their seaward end and the high
-cliffs of Beachy Head, Birling Gap, and Seaford.</p>
-
-<p>For any one not fully acquainted with the county, and desirous of
-thoroughly learning its character, the best plan is to take one of the
-several routes which traverse it, and to make his journey slowly. The
-county is so diversified, its changes of scenery are so rapid, and the
-slight falls and rises of the Weald make each so considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156">{156}</a></span> a
-difference to the view, that quick travelling will never teach a man the
-nature of Sussex. It is on this account that the millions who have gone
-and come by the railway between London and the sea coast have not
-retained so much as the knowledge that they have passed through the most
-distinctive county in England. The same is undoubtedly true of the motor
-car of to-day. What man travelling at fifteen to twenty miles an hour
-recognises the moment when he crosses the county boundary, or picks out,
-as he flashes by, the brickwork of a true Sussex gable?</p>
-
-<p>There are but two ways of learning Sussex: on horseback and on foot; and
-of these the first, for those who can afford it, is the best. As to the
-line to be followed, those who have the leisure should certainly
-traverse two&mdash;the one from north to south, the other from east to west.
-And for the benefit of those who may be inclined to try the experiment,
-there shall be detailed here the way in which such a journey may best be
-undertaken.</p>
-
-<p>It will be remembered that we have seen, with regard to the Weald, that
-its original clearings with their isolated farmhouses were united by
-random winding tracks&mdash;not true ways, such as</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_065" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_065.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_065.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>HARTFIELD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157">{157}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE OLD FOREST TRACKS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">the old deep-cut British road under the Downs, still less properly
-engineered or civilised roads, but mere forest paths rambling with but a
-general direction, and linking up one steading with another.</p>
-
-<p>Now it is a remarkable fact that the lines of these original tracks are
-in great part preserved; in places they have been destroyed by the
-plough, in others they have merged into the great highways of the
-county, but much of them still remains in the form of secluded and
-tortuous lanes which are sometimes partly metalled, sometimes flagged on
-a packhorse path with Sussex marble, and sometimes left green. If a
-traveller will take one of these where it enters the county and pursue
-it to the Downs, he will get as true a conception of the way in which
-the Weald has grown up, of its primeval woodland, and of the nature of
-its clearings as it is possible to obtain. He will discover that to this
-day very much of the curious loneliness of the Weald survives within a
-mile or two of its most populous towns, and the impression of his two
-days’ march (or one day if he is a great walker&mdash;the distance will
-commonly be under twenty-five miles) will teach him more of the county
-than any amount of bicycling along its main roads.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps the best example remaining of such an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158">{158}</a></span> old track is that which
-runs right for the Downs from the Surrey border where the road comes
-from Dorking to Warnham. Its place-names here and there sufficiently
-indicate the historic importance of the way. Thus its entry into the
-county is the “shire mark”; its first farm “King’s Fold”&mdash;fold is a
-characteristic ending of a Wealden name. Often before there were regular
-farmhouses in a place there was a pen or boundary within which forest
-cattle could be kept. Thus, Chiddingfold, Slinfold, Flitchfold,
-Dunsfold, etc., in the forest on either side of the border.</p>
-
-<p>Next on the road, an hour within the county, is Warnham, and in the
-neighbouring hamlet of “Friday <i>Street</i>,” a termination which is
-characteristic of village names along some ancient way; immediately
-afterwards the road skirts Field Place, where Shelley the poet was born,
-and becomes (a further characteristic of old tracks) a boundary&mdash;at
-present a parliamentary boundary. It crosses the Arun at New Bridge or
-Broad Bridge, and thence for many miles runs south, neglected and
-silent, crossing the main ridge of the Weald and coming down upon the
-“Greens,” Barn’s Green, where it throws off a little branch to the left,
-which passes through Brook’s Green, Dragon’s Green, becomes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159">{159}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">AN OLD FOREST TRACK</div>
-
-<p>King’s Lane at Shipley, and thence goes on in a deserted green road
-towards Chanctonbury.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile from Barn’s Green the original track continues south and
-somewhat west, becomes again a parliamentary boundary in the
-neighbourhood of Coneyhurst Common, turns there once more into a
-highroad, crosses the marshy upwaters of the Adur by a bridge which
-recalls its twin to the north (Broad Ford Bridge), and makes straight
-for the village of West Chiltington, one of those characteristic
-villages which depend for their site upon the sandhills which rise so
-suddenly from the clay beneath the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>After this village it suddenly ceases to be a road, but continues in the
-same line as a right of way to Roundabout (delightful name!), and thence
-onward as a lane again to Storrington, which settlement was probably the
-original goal of this very ancient forest road.</p>
-
-<p>If any one will take such a walk in good weather he will thoroughly
-understand what the history of the central part of Sussex has been.
-Every name he finds and every building will enlighten him.</p>
-
-<p>For an east and west line of travel two may be chosen, and both should
-be undertaken if this highly differentiated countryside is to be fully
-appreciated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160">{160}</a></span> The first needs but little description, it is a highroad
-all the way, and holds the whole line of market towns spread out upon it
-like beads upon a string; but it is characteristic of the Weald that
-even this is not a road single in its intention, but is composed of
-various old paths which have been patched together.</p>
-
-<p>In taking this walk you will go from Petersfield to Midhurst, where are
-two inns, The Angel and The Eagle; then from Midhurst through Cowdray
-Park you follow the Petworth road, and at Petworth is an inn called The
-Swan, remarkable for excellent mild ale. Then from Petworth you will go
-through Fittleworth and Stopham, over Stopham Bridge to Pulborough; and
-at this point the old marshes of the Arun, the line of heights from
-Broomer’s Hill to Thakeham, and the marshes of the Adur beyond these
-cause the road to double. Cowfold is your object, some ten miles away in
-a straight line. You must either strike up through Billingshurst five
-miles north, and then take the straight road from Billingshurst to
-Cowfold, or else you must strike south to Storrington, and then take the
-road through Washington, which branches to the left just after Wiston,
-and so reaches Cowfold through Ashurst and Partridge Green. After
-Cowfold</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_066" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_066.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_066.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>PULBOROUGH MARSH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161">{161}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">WAY ALONG THE DOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">it is a connected road again as it was up to Pulborough. You go eastward
-through Cuckfield, through Hayward’s Heath, past the railway which you
-cross close to Newick Station, straight on to Maresfield, down south to
-Uckfield, then on by the main road to Heathfield. A mile eastward of the
-railway there the road branches; but your better plan is to follow the
-old line up which came the army of Jack Cade&mdash;that is, to skirt
-Heathfield Park, to pass through Chapel Cross, go over Brightling Hill
-which has wonderful command of the whole district, and so come down upon
-the Rother at Robertsbridge. There you will find an inn called the
-George, of considerable moment. East of this you are no longer in the
-spirit of Sussex, but in that of Kent, and a very few minutes farther on
-you are over the legal boundary between the two counties.</p>
-
-<p>The second line is, of course, that of the Downs. It has the
-disadvantage of ending abruptly at the sea, and does not show you the
-whole length of the county as does the line through the Weald. But it
-has the advantage that no other walk or ride anywhere is of the same
-kind: fifty miles of turf, broken only by four short gaps in the river
-valleys, lie before you between Harting Hill and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162">{162}</a></span> Beachy Head. The
-itinerary of such a ride is as follows:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>You will leave Petersfield by the eastern road, and turn by that lane on
-the right which makes for the Downs, reaching their summit upon Harting
-Hill. There is no proper track, but it is open going round the northern
-edge of Beacon Hill and so onwards, always keeping to the escarpment,
-and passing to the southern side of the summit of Linch Down. This
-latter course has the advantage that it avoids going round deep combe or
-crypt, and, moreover, on the southern side of the summit you strike that
-ridgeway which will accompany you for many miles, and which here leads
-you between the two woods in the open. About a mile to the east of the
-summit of Linch Down you have to cross the somewhat low and steep pass
-where the Midhurst and Chichester road crosses the hills. Your ridgeway
-takes you straight across it over the top of Cocking Tunnel, and on up
-again to the Down on the eastern side of the gap. There it is a clear
-ride right away until you come above Lavington. At this point it is well
-to strike to the right or south-west, making for a little chapel which
-you will see below you in a sort of interior valley of the Downs. Here
-you will find a highroad<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163">{163}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">WAY ALONG THE DOWNS</div>
-
-<p class="nind">which is the highroad to Petworth; and if you continue it to a group of
-cottages known as The Kennels, you may leave it again due eastward over
-some ploughed land until you find in less than half a mile the
-escarpment of the hills again.</p>
-
-<p>The object of this somewhat complicated direction is to avoid the sharp
-angle of the Downs at Duncton Hill, but if any one thinks the short cut
-too difficult, he has but to follow round the escarpment, and he will
-come by a rather longer route to the same point, which is that steep
-combe above Sutton and Cold Harbour which those who live to the south of
-it call, from the nearest farm, “Gumber Corner,” but which is also known
-as Cold Harbour Hill. It is well to pause here and make it, as it were,
-a centre of observation, for it is a spot from which the general
-character of the county, the divisions into which it naturally falls,
-and the special features which make up its landscape, may all be seized
-in one view.</p>
-
-<p>There is, perhaps, no other place in England where the landscape is so
-full of history, and at the same time so diverse and so characteristic
-of its own country-side.</p>
-
-<p>To the south of you, some 600 feet below, is the whole stretch of the
-sea-plain, and beyond it, up to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">{164}</a></span> the horizon, which is lifted right into
-the sky, is the belt of the sea. On this, if it be near evening, you see
-the regular flashing of the Owers Light, which marks that group of rocks
-where once was a Roman town, and you note how the sea is eating up all
-that shore. Stretching out towards the light in a sharp point is the
-promontory of Selsea Bill&mdash;all that is left of the submerged land. Here
-was founded the first bishopric of Sussex. And as your mind dwells upon
-that foundation you catch, a little to the west and to the right, the
-great spire of Chichester Cathedral standing up eight miles away under
-the sunset&mdash;Chichester, to which was removed, and which is now the
-successor of, St. Wilfrid’s original See.</p>
-
-<p>The boundary here between the Sussex sea-plain and Hampshire is clearly
-marked, for the level light sends a gleam along the creeks of the upper
-harbours beyond Bosham, which undoubtedly were the first principal
-divisions along this coast between the South Saxons and their neighbours
-to the west.</p>
-
-<p>As you look along that horizon eastward, you continue to see a chain of
-Sussex things. You see the port of Littlehampton, one of the Sussex
-river mouths; farther off, on the extreme limit of your view, you see
-the lights of Worthing,</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_067" style="width: 434px;">
-<a href="images/ill_067.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_067.jpg" width="434" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>KING RICHARD’S WALK, CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">{165}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">VIEW FROM GUMBER</div>
-
-<p class="nind">characteristic of the new great watering-towns which have grown up all
-along this coast. You have in one landscape all that maritime fringe of
-Sussex which is held in such detestation by the men of the Weald, and
-which is yet the side from which civilisation or change has always come
-into the county: the sea-plain upon which the Saxon pirates landed; the
-plain upon which the siege of the Roman town of Anderida took place. It
-was from this sea that Christianity came, and it was on the same flat,
-though in the eastern part of it, that William of Falaise landed with
-his army on the way to conquer at Hastings.</p>
-
-<p>Between the high place from which you are thus looking southward and
-surveying the land toward the sea&mdash;between the main range of the Downs,
-that is, and the dead flat of the rich plough-land&mdash;you see, in one low
-summit after the other, those foot-hills of the Downs which are an
-essential part of the Sussex landscape, and which are so full of Sussex
-history. Here stand in a row, partly isolated from each other,
-Halnecker, with its gaunt deserted mill; Eartham, where Cowper for some
-little time wrote, and where perhaps the best portrait of him was
-painted. Next is the great wooded mass of the Nore Hill, now
-uninhabited<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166">{166}</a></span> and silent, but once a stronghold; the neighbouring summit
-of Slindon, which was Canterbury land, one of the great houses of the
-Archbishop; the promontory of the Rewell Wood, which hides Arundel; and
-farther off eastward that semi-conical lift of Cissbury, which the men
-of the place call High Down. Here first the Briton, then the Roman, then
-the Saxon held their trenches, and here has been found that most
-fascinating and absorbing relic of prehistory&mdash;a manufactory of flint
-implements, finished and half-finished, with the cores and the chips
-lying beside the completed work.</p>
-
-<p>This is what you see to the southward. Directly to the east and the west
-of you is the wall of the Downs, on the crest of which you stand.
-Nowhere else on the crest of that wall will you see them look so long or
-so sheer. You see them fall mile after mile on to the plain, some
-jutting slightly forward, as does Ditchling Beacon, upon the limit of
-one’s gaze, and the whole forming one strict escarpment, the like of
-which is not to be discovered to our knowledge elsewhere in the world.
-From this point you perceive and are filled with the utter loneliness of
-these hills; there is not a house on them nor a man, and they are the
-more<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167">{167}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">VIEW FROM GUMBER</div>
-
-<p class="nind">lonely that you have so immediately, and yet so far, below you the
-little farmhouses in their combes.</p>
-
-<p>These combes, their names and their great hollows, recall to you the
-enormous antiquity upon which Sussex reposes. Their name is a Celtic
-name. It has outlasted the three great foreign invasions of the
-land&mdash;the Roman civilisers, the German pirate, and the re-entry of the
-Latins with the Norman Conquest. Their woods also have outlasted every
-destroyer, every cultivator, and engineer. No one can plough these steep
-hollows&mdash;the beeches have clung to them from the beginning and will
-cling to them always. Immediately beneath you is one such horseshoe,
-bitten into the mass of the Down; and if you stand still you can hear
-moving in it the life of beasts which men have never seriously
-disturbed. Small as these woods are, they are as primal and as isolated
-as anything you will find in any distant valley. They are not cut for
-profit, or at least very rarely, because the ground is too steep for
-haulage. They live their own life and are secluded.</p>
-
-<p>Indeed, all over the broad back of the Downs, for seventy miles and
-more, these patches of woods, both in the combes and up on the shoulders
-of the hills, are a necessary part of Sussex. They exhibit<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168">{168}</a></span> the
-unconquerable nature of the county, its strongholds of silence and of
-desertion within an hour or two of London, and within a short walk of
-those flaring new places which have sprung up upon the sea-shore. The
-past and the very meaning of the county can still be remembered in the
-names of those woods. Here are certain of the “forests” remaining. Right
-at your feet is Houghton Forest, the remnant of a great royal wood lost
-to the Crown perhaps in the civil wars.</p>
-
-<p>This view along the Downs tells you many other things about the county:
-you have, for instance, close beside you, not three miles away, perhaps
-the earliest and until latterly one of the most used of the “Passes”
-over the Downs&mdash;the cross-roads at Whiteways. The London road and the
-road which had followed along under the Downs from Lewes unite at the
-summit of the Saddle, and lead travellers from the capital or from the
-Weald to Arundel or to the sea-plain. It is an example of those passages
-over the hills which have been mentioned as running from Cocking near
-Midhurst right away to Lewes, and which have their best roads at
-Duncton, here at Whiteways, at Washington, and beyond New Timber at
-Clayton.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_068" style="width: 449px;">
-<a href="images/ill_068.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_068.jpg" width="449" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>OLD WHITING MILL, MIDHURST</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169">{169}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">VIEW FROM GUMBER</div>
-
-<p>Those river valleys which we have seen to be so peculiar to the
-modelling of the South country&mdash;trenches cut right through the chalk and
-appearing to ignore the natural watershed which the hills would
-form&mdash;come also into this landscape. The greatest of them is right
-before you in the Arun valley. If it is winter you will see in the
-sheets of water surrounding the river why these valleys were not used
-for communication, and why to this day, though the railway has built
-itself an embankment across the marshes, no road runs through along the
-level floor, which would seem at first sight the obvious gate through
-the Downs from the Weald to the sea.</p>
-
-<p>You can also see from this point of vantage one of those castles which
-guard the gates of the county, for you can see to the north of the gap
-the ruins of Amberley. In a word, you have the whole nature of the Downs
-and of the sea-plain before you as you look from Gumber.</p>
-
-<p>But you have also much more. Turn to the northward, and there lies
-before you the whole stretch of the Weald: its towns, its little sandy
-pine-clad heights, its irregular plan, the large remains of its old
-woods and heaths. Far beyond it you may see, like another wall answering
-the southern<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170">{170}</a></span> wall of the Downs, the line of the Surrey hills; and all
-Sussex which is not maritime lies between you and them in one sweep.</p>
-
-<p>You have to the north-westward the great bunch of Hindhead, where the
-three counties of Hampshire, Sussex, and Surrey meet; you have to the
-eastward an interminable succession of low heights, one behind the
-other, which stretch out to the Kentish border and make up the Sussex
-Weald. You may see, at the farthest point which the eye can reach, the
-lonely fir-trees upon Ashdown, which stands so high as to hide the
-Kentish “hursts” behind it.</p>
-
-<p>One of those small towns of the Weald which are most characteristic of
-Sussex is beneath you, the little town of Petworth, with its great house
-insolently overshadowing it and swallowing it up. There is also beneath
-you something more Sussex and more dignified than the blatant grandeur
-of such a palace&mdash;the squires’ houses all the way along from Burton to
-Parham. You are too far to see how well they illustrate the
-county,&mdash;Parham especially, which is built of chalk, and is altogether a
-sort of natural growth of Sussex,&mdash;but you may easily grasp in their
-continuous line what sort of house it was round which the old manors
-clung.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_069" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_069.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_069.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>MILL POOL, MIDHURST</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171">{171}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">VIEW FROM GUMBER</div>
-
-<p>From Gumber also you judge how far it may be true that the Weald was
-ever uninhabited. You see indeed great patches of woodland, and many
-more patches of what may have been recent, but what are most likely
-ancient, clearings. You see belts of heath on which nothing has ever
-grown or will grow, and you see everywhere villages which are certainly
-of great age, because they lie along the main lines of communication.</p>
-
-<p>Speaking of these, it is worthy of notice that you have next to you, as
-you stand here on Gumber, that most distinct and the best-preserved
-Roman road in England. The Stane Street crosses this saddle of the
-range; it is raised several feet above the surface of the hills. It is
-like a rampart, and comes straight from the spire of Chichester on the
-south-western horizon. Here are visible all the points of the Stane
-Street which have been detailed upon a former page, the way in which it
-negotiates the escarpment of the Downs in a great curve, and the way in
-which, when once it has struck the plain, it darts right for the
-crossing of the Arun at Pulborough. Hence also may be caught that gap in
-the Surrey hills at Dorking for which the road makes northward, and
-beyond which it is lost in the turf at Epsom.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172">{172}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>As you trace that taut line across the Weald you may note every period
-of the Sussex past. You see it crossing at Bignor the winding elbowed
-British lane which has sunk so deep through centuries of traffic below
-the surrounding fields, you see the famous ruins of the Roman villa, and
-the ruin of the Priory of Hardham, which stood upon its highway.</p>
-
-<p>The watershed which divides the Sussex from the Surrey rivers stands up
-in the midst of the Weald before you plainly enough, though it is lower
-than the ridge of the Downs to the north or the south. There is to be
-distinguished very clearly to the north-east that part of it called St.
-Leonard’s Forest from which flows the Arun to the south and the Mole to
-the north: the Sussex river of Arundel, and the Surrey river of Dorking.</p>
-
-<p>All those things, then, which are especial to the county, and which we
-have remarked elsewhere to be the distinguishing marks of Sussex, stand
-out in this view from Gumber: the historic sites, the forests, the
-escarpment of the Downs, their foot-hills; the encroachments of the sea;
-the ancient and the modern parts which the sea-line plays in Sussex
-history; the small old ports which have so much, and the great modern
-pleasure towns which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173">{173}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">WESTBURTON HILL</div>
-
-<p class="nind">have so little, to do with the life of Sussex men; the river crossing
-the chalk hills; the oaks, the pines, and the heaths of the Weald; the
-Roman foundations of our state; the great Roman road and the Roman
-villa; the squires’ houses, its successors; the little towns; the
-marshes of the gaps through the hills; the roads over the passes,&mdash;all
-these are combined in such a view, and if a man has but very little time
-in which to comprehend the nature of Sussex he cannot do better than to
-leave the Chichester road for awhile, either at the top of Duncton hill,
-or half a mile farther at The Kennels, and walk up to Gumber corner to
-see the sight which has been here described.</p>
-
-<p>Next after the Saddle, from which is seen this great view, the traveller
-will go on eastward along the ridge, down the somewhat steep side of
-Bignor Hill, and he will find on the other side of the cleft, which here
-separates Bignor from Westburton Hill, the first of those dew pans of
-which we spoke in our first description of the county. From just beside
-it there is a straight green track leading just south of the crest of
-the hills, and just north of the line of Houghton Forest, and falling at
-last into the highroad from London to Arundel, just before the
-cross-road of Whiteways, where is the lodge<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174">{174}</a></span> of Arundel Park. Here he
-has the choice of two routes: he may go through Arundel Park down on to
-the town of Arundel some two or three miles away, or he may go straight
-down Houghton Hill and so across the bridge at Amberley. It is this
-latter course which he had better take if his object is an exploration
-of the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>Going down Houghton Hill he will note the old road running steeply down
-the side of the Downs and the new one curving more gently to the south.
-They reunite at the entrance of Houghton village, just where the old
-inn, the George and Dragon, stands. A hundred yards farther there comes
-in that ancient track which links up all the prehistoric village sites
-under the Downs, and for which there is no name.</p>
-
-<p>It is interesting, as one leaves Houghton village, to notice how the
-road (which is now identical with the old British track) approaches the
-marshy land of the river, following the spur of dry land which pushes
-out into the marshes, and making for the nearest similar spur on the
-farther side of the stream. All old British ways approach a river in
-this fashion, as, for instance, the track to which we owe London Bridge,
-the crossing of the Medway near Lower Halling, of the Mole just north
-of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175">{175}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">RACKHAM HILL</div>
-
-<p>Dorking, and of the Darent at Oxford. The last few yards of the road
-where the marshy land begins are carried on the modern causeway; the
-Arun itself is crossed by a fine bridge, on the farther side of which is
-an inn which makes a very good stopping-place, whether a man has ridden
-or has walked, for, by the time he reaches this inn, he will have gone
-between fifteen and twenty miles. Moreover, it is always wise, when one
-is exploring the Downs, to rest in the river valleys which cut them
-rather than to come down off their main summits on to the plain, for to
-do this last is to waste much effort in the climb of next morning.</p>
-
-<p>Half a mile after leaving Houghton Bridge inn the traveller will find a
-lane leading straight up to the top of the Downs, a summit here called
-Rackham Hill; and thenceforward he has before him a ridgeway of five
-miles of unbroken turf of the finest sort in England, midway along which
-he should note upon the steep escarpment beneath him (along the northern
-side of what is called Kithurst Hill) the great embankment which may
-perhaps be defensive earthworks, or may perhaps be some religious emblem
-of the prehistoric ancestors of the county.</p>
-
-<p>At the end of the five miles he comes down<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176">{176}</a></span> upon what is known as
-Washington Gap, where the Worthing road crosses the hills, and as he
-does so he leaves upon his right Highden, the original home of the
-Gorings, and the centre from which has spread the influence of that
-Sussex family. The gap is low, but a little over 300 feet, and when he
-has crossed it he must go up nearly 500 more to the height of
-Chanctonbury Ring, which is the knot or pivot, as it were, upon which
-the whole system of the range turns. Though it is not exactly central
-between the Hampshire borders and the sea end of the Downs, being a good
-deal to the west of such a centre, it is a place of observation from
-which the range may be discovered stretching to the left and right
-through the whole of its extent. Ditchling Beacon to the east and
-Duncton Down to the west are twenty or thirty feet higher, but neither
-is so conspicuous as the Ring. Here also, immediately to the east and
-just below the clump of trees, is the largest dew pan on the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>It is possible to go down from Chanctonbury straight to Steyning, but,
-if one desires to see all one can of the hills, it is better to keep
-upon them until one sees below one a spur pointing towards Bramber;
-there is a lane down this spur, and at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177">{177}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE DEVIL’S DYKE</div>
-
-<p>Bramber another excellent inn called the Castle Inn. Here the second
-river valley of the Downs is crossed: the valley of the Adur. From the
-Arun to the Adur is a very short day, yet it is good policy to rest
-here, as there is no other break in the hills between this valley and
-that of the Ouse at Lewes, which is almost as long a journey as that of
-the first day.</p>
-
-<p>After Bramber the line of the range becomes somewhat confused, and does
-not follow that strict and unbending direction which has hitherto marked
-it. There is a projection northward in Wolstonbury Hill, and fairly deep
-depressions between the principal heights. The course to be followed is
-further complicated by the near presence of Brighton, which has thrown
-out a railway almost up to the top of the range, and has brought the
-influences of a town to the deep combe known as Devil’s Dyke.</p>
-
-<p>This unfortunate spot cannot be avoided save on foot, for, on horseback,
-the escarpment to the north is too steep to be followed; it is therefore
-best to take it boldly, unpleasant as it is, to go well south of the
-Dyke and make for the hamlet of Saddlescombe, the first passage of the
-Downs after Bramber. Thence the traveller will go due north-east over
-the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178">{178}</a></span> shoulder of New Timber Hill, in the valley beyond he will cross the
-two Brighton roads (that from Crawley and that from Cuckfield) just
-before they join, he will leave Wolstonbury Hill wholly on his left and
-will make for the summits of the Downs before him, going due eastward
-from the highroad when he has crossed it.</p>
-
-<p>When he has once reached these summits beyond the road he has another
-straight run of seven miles of splendid turf and of glorious views along
-a lonely and unwooded ridge, past Ditchling Beacon, and catching beneath
-him as he goes, at the foot of the hills, the last miles of the old
-British track which here links up Westmeston, Plumpton, and Offham.</p>
-
-<p>When he comes at last to the fall of the hills down upon the Ouse
-valley, he will see before him the town of Lewes and its castle, and as
-he goes down towards it he will note the race-course upon his right,
-which stands upon the site of the great battle of 1264, wherein the
-Barons defeated the King and laid the foundations of Parliament. Lewes,
-when he reaches it, should form his third resting-place, lying as it
-does upon the third of the rivers which cut the Downs.</p>
-
-<p>Upon the fourth day the way lies along the main Eastbourne road for the
-first two or three</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_070" style="width: 466px;">
-<a href="images/ill_070.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_070.jpg" width="466" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BEACHY HEAD</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179">{179}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">BEACHY HEAD</div>
-
-<p class="nind">miles, until Beddingham is reached. There one turns to the right just by
-the church, and after half a mile of going one finds a lane leading
-straight up on to the Downs; a ridgeway takes one along the crest (the
-height of which is here called Firle Beacon), and in about five miles
-one comes down upon the valley of the Cuckmere and the very old village
-of Alfriston.</p>
-
-<p>For the last few miles of the journey there is a choice of ways: one may
-turn to the right after Alfriston bridge and, going past Lullington
-Court, take a lane which leads one straight to the village of Jevington,
-thus cutting off the projecting corner and height of Winddower Hill, or
-one may turn to the left after the bridge and go round over the top of
-the ridge, and so down on to Jevington from the north. From Jevington a
-short lane leads straight up on to the height of Willingdon Hill, and
-thence it is a straight southerly line along the escarpment with a few
-slight rises and falls until, just four miles on, one stands above the
-precipice of Beachy Head where the Downs fall into the sea, and one’s
-journey is ended. These four days, if they are spent in weather of
-passible clearness, teach one the whole of that lonely and wonderful
-belt of England, the landscape and character of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180">{180}</a></span> which have built up the
-county on either side to the north and south of hills.</p>
-
-<p>It would, of course, be possible to devise many another journey by which
-those who do not know the county might better appreciate somewhat of its
-aspects. But these three of which we have spoken are the best in general
-for an exploration of Sussex, unless one pleases to add a fourth of a
-somewhat monotonous and truncated character, which would be to cover in
-one day the coastal plain from Chichester to Brighton, and in another
-the sea coast and the marshes from Eastbourne to Rye. The second section
-of this is straightforward enough, taking one through Pevensey,
-Hastings, and Winchelsea. As to the first, it is advisable not to follow
-the main road through Arundel, but to go by lanes nearer the sea from
-Chichester to Eastergate, thence to Yapton, and so on through
-Littlehampton, West Ferring, Worthing, and along the sea coast to New
-Shoreham. It is possible also to take either section right along its
-beach. There is no interruption, but it would be a dreary and a
-heart-breaking thing to do, and would leave upon a man a general
-impression of red brick and boarding-houses, and esplanades and tin
-bungalows, interrupted by intervals of tufted grass growing</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_071" style="width: 469px;">
-<a href="images/ill_071.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_071.jpg" width="469" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>WILLINGDON</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181">{181}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE SUSSEX SEA</div>
-
-<p class="nind">rank upon deserted sand-hills. Nay, even these are not all deserted, for
-in places Londoners can be seen upon them playing golf.</p>
-
-<p>It is best to wander inland, to pass every night at some one of the
-small market towns, and, when one has returned from the county, to be
-able to remember the many unbroken woods, the isolated clearings, the
-primeval tracks, now metalled and now green, the little patches of
-swamp, the clay pools and the short oaks of the Weald, the abrupt
-sandstone ledges crowded with pine, the bare Downs beyond seen between
-such trees, and the large levels of the four rivers which, between them,
-make up the county, and explain the history of its soil and of its
-families, and the peculiar tenacity with which it maintains under all
-modern vicissitudes its unique and enduring character.</p>
-
-<p>It may not be without utility to close these pages with a few remarks
-upon the last way in which the county can be explored in the course of a
-holiday. We will consider the approach from the sea and learn something
-of the way in which a small boat should regard the harbours of this
-coast; of how the rivers are to be ascended, and of the particular
-difficulties at the mouth of each.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182">{182}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Those of our readers who have the opportunity to explore the county in
-this way from the coast and the Channel may not be numerous, but they
-can at least boast that their method of travel can give them the best
-appreciation of its history, for Sussex grew up from the harbours.</p>
-
-<p>We have already remarked that the Sussex harbours come at fairly regular
-intervals, especially those between Beachy Head and the Isle of Wight,
-but they are not by any means equally easy of access, even for a small
-boat drawing, let us say, six feet of water; and the most difficult of
-all five is Rye, at the mouth of the Rother.</p>
-
-<p>It is an almost universal rule that old harbours from which the sea has
-retreated, but to which the waterway still exists, are difficult of
-access, and Rye is no exception to this rule. There extends for more
-than a mile from the shore a mass of peaty mud through which the sea-bed
-of the river winds in a most tortuous fashion; at half-tide it is almost
-impossible to follow it if one has had no local experience. The matter
-is made worse from the fact that the channel is very poorly marked; its
-first entrance from the sea is impossible to discover in thick weather
-and not too easy upon a clear day. All this is a pity, for if Rye were
-still as accessible</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_072" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_072.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_072.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BOAT-BUILDING AT RYE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183">{183}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">HASTINGS BAY</div>
-
-<p class="nind">as is say Arundel, or even Bosham, it would form the most charming of
-all entries into the county, with its pyramid of old red roofs and its
-deep and visible history.</p>
-
-<p>From Rye all the way across the bay to Beachy Head there is no haven,
-nor for the matter of that any difficulty for a small craft, save that
-the shore is very flat between Hastings and Eastbourne, and that, as
-one’s course takes one well out, it is not easy to fix landmarks. In
-good weather, of course, Beachy Head is a most prominent object all the
-way, and the light below it a perfect mark at night, but a very little
-haze is enough to make a yachtsman who is following alongshore get a
-mile or two in or out, especially as a strong tideway runs in between
-Pevensey Bay and the Royal Sovereign shoals. Rounding Beachy Head itself
-is easy enough work except when a strong northerly wind is blowing. On
-these occasions the Head, which is very abrupt, and the cliffs to the
-west of it, have a way of spilling sharp gusts unexpectedly down on to
-the water beneath. The present writer has seen a five-tonner under three
-reefs and a storm jib all but swamped within half a mile of the shore by
-one of these puffs, which are especially dangerous from the fact that
-there is no telling quite in what<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184">{184}</a></span> direction they will come. A full
-north-easterly wind on the starboard quarter as one rounds the head can
-give one a set-back in the shape of an unexpected gust coming round from
-right ahead out of Birling Gap. The only rule when the wind is blowing
-strong off-shore is to keep well out&mdash;irritating as it is to have to do
-so when one is making Newhaven, since every tack towards the outside
-means another mile to be beaten inwards against the weather.</p>
-
-<p>Some years ago it would have been necessary to warn the reader of a
-small reef which runs out from Beachy Head and is especially dangerous
-at high water, but a new lighthouse is now fixed upon this reef and the
-old danger no longer exists.</p>
-
-<p>Newhaven Harbour, as we have seen upon a previous page, is the most
-serious commercial harbour upon the coast. It is the only one before
-which there is not some considerable bar, and it goes without saying
-that small boats, such as we are supposing, can enter freely at any
-state of the tide; but it is by no means the easiest of the Sussex
-rivers for a small boat to <i>lie</i> in. It has a heavy traffic both of
-trade and passengers, conveyed in large steamers along a rather narrow
-river, and until a dock for large craft has been constructed it</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_073" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_073.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_073.jpg" width="600" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>OLD SHOREHAM BRIDGE</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185">{185}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">SHOREHAM HARBOUR</div>
-
-<p class="nind">will always be a rather anxious place to get in and out of, especially
-as there is a very strong tide in the Ouse. A dozen miles or so farther
-westward along the coast is the modern entrance of Shoreham Harbour.
-This harbour has a rather awkward bar, and it is not infrequently
-necessary to wait for the tide; moreover the tideway runs like a stream
-right athwart the mouth, and therefore tends to make one run dangerously
-near the pier-heads if the wind is light, but, once this bar is crossed
-and the piers past, Shoreham still affords very good moorings for a
-small boat, and it also is well situated for proceeding in any direction
-inland; but one must be careful to take the right-hand or eastern branch
-of the harbour, and not to go up the river on the left-hand side, as the
-former is deep, secure, and well-wharfed, while the latter has steep,
-shingly banks, and soon becomes extremely shallow.</p>
-
-<p>At much the same distance from Shoreham that Shoreham is from Newhaven
-will be found the harbour of Littlehampton, which is in some ways the
-best of all as a centre or goal for small craft. Its great drawback is
-its bar, which is the worst in the whole county, worse even than that of
-the Rother. In spite of continual dredging this bar is perpetually
-appearing above the surface at low<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186">{186}</a></span> spring tides, and it is hopeless to
-attempt to enter at any draught of water before half-tide. The bar is,
-however, quite close to the end of the pier; there is good holding
-ground for anchor, and signals of showing from the pier-head
-signal-staff clearly indicate the depth over the bar at any moment. The
-heavy gales from the south-west, which are the only dangerous ones on
-those parts of the coast (with the exception of some very rare
-south-easterly gales), are broken for Littlehampton by the Owers Bank,
-and to some extent by the group of rocks which run eastward from them,
-and there are very few days when it is not safe to anchor outside and
-wait for the tide.</p>
-
-<p>Once inside, the Arun will be found the most practicable and the most
-delightful of Sussex rivers for the sailor. There is depth for seagoing
-vessels all the way up to Arundel, the approach to which is perhaps the
-most striking approach to a port to be found in England. Half-way on
-this journey is a rolling railway bridge, but there is no other
-obstruction and plenty of water all the way. At Arundel is the first
-permanent bridge, but a small boat, or a boat with a lowering mast, can
-go on much farther up the river. The tide will carry one, when there
-is</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_074" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_074.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_074.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>THE ARUN, NEAR PULBOROUGH</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187">{187}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">THE ARUN</div>
-
-<p class="nind">no backwater or flood, as high as Pulborough in the heart of the county.</p>
-
-<p>Formerly all the Sussex rivers gave this opportunity for entering from
-the sea into the centre of the countryside, to which was doubtless due
-the only too thorough results of the pirate raids in the early part of
-our history. Thus a Danish ship has been found right up the Rother on
-the Kentish border near Northiam, at a place where the river is now no
-more than a brook. Similarly it was easy to sail up the Ouse far beyond
-Lewes. As we have previously remarked, the Adur was a navigable river
-till recent times almost as far as Shipley. At present the Arun alone of
-these waterways remains. It owes its preservation to the fact that the
-care of man has never been allowed to lapse upon its banks. Its high
-dykes (still called by the Norman-French name of “rives”) have always
-been carefully maintained, and where the old river was silting up (as
-for instance in the great bend by Burpham) new cuts have preserved the
-scouring of the channel. We must, however, regret that in this direction
-the canal system by which the Arun was linked up with the rest of
-England has been deliberately allowed to go to pieces. There used to be
-a waterway from Ford to Chichester,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">{188}</a></span> which made the most delightful of
-inland excursions, and of which Turner has painted a famous picture. It
-is now nothing but a dry ditch. Higher up near Hardham another waterway
-led across the great bend of the river to Stopham and continued, as a
-canal parallel to the stream, across the Weald until the upper waters of
-the Wey were reached, and through them the Thames valley. It was
-therefore quite easy until the destruction of the canal to go by water
-from the Sussex coast to Weybridge. It is typical of our modern politics
-that a national advantage of this sort should have been thrown away by
-Parliament in its subservience to the railway interest, and it is to be
-hoped that that advantage will soon be regained. The trench is still
-there and the emplacement of the old locks, and the sum required to put
-the canal into use again would certainly be recovered in a few years of
-pleasure traffic alone.</p>
-
-<p>The last of the harbours we have to consider is that ramification of
-creeks on the extreme west of the county known collectively as
-“Chichester Harbour.” Here also there is a very bad bar and a
-complicated entrance. From Littlehampton a small boat should make for
-the point of Selsea Bill and so creep through Looe stream. But she</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ill_075" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_075.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_075.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>BOSHAM</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189">{189}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="sidenote">CHICHESTER HARBOUR</div>
-
-<p class="nind">must take care to do this on an ebb-tide, for it is impossible to get
-through against the flood.</p>
-
-<p>Even for quite small vessels the entry of Chichester Harbour is
-navigable only at high tide, but the exploration of it is delightful,
-whether one runs up Fishbourne Creek (which lands one near to
-Chichester) or, leaving this on the right, one goes straight on to the
-wharf of Bosham. There is, unfortunately, no river running from these
-creeks up into the county, but they form an excellent and sheltered
-mooring from which to start upon sails into the Solent just to hand.</p>
-
-<p>This method of learning the county, the entry from the sea, is the most
-natural, the most historic, and the most germane to the nature of
-Sussex. Every port one enters is the port of Rape, every river up which
-one’s dinghy takes one is the river along which the penetration of the
-county has proceeded in past times, and one upon which its principal
-market-towns will be found. So Chichester, Arundel, Steyning, Lewes, can
-be reached, and with more difficulty towns farther up the country. The
-whole manner in which Sussex has grown up is impressed upon the man who
-enters it from the Channel.</p>
-
-<p>Unfortunately it is the least familiar and perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190">{190}</a></span> least easy of all
-the ways in which the county may be approached, but those who care to
-try the experiment will find themselves well repaid for the exertion the
-method involves, especially as they explore one of those valleys which
-lead through the Downs and reveal section by section, as one goes up
-stream, every distinctive portion and contrast of the countryside, until
-the heart of the Weald is reached, and the traveller can see from his
-boat, as the pirate of the fifth century saw from a wider and more
-marshy stream, the long, straight escarpment of the hills closing the
-horizon and defining the land to which he was to give his language and
-his tribal name.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191">{191}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
-
-<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>,
-<a href="#B">B</a>,
-<a href="#C">C</a>,
-<a href="#D">D</a>,
-<a href="#E">E</a>,
-<a href="#F">F</a>,
-<a href="#G">G</a>,
-<a href="#H">H</a>,
-<a href="#I">I</a>,
-<a href="#J">J</a>,
-<a href="#K">K</a>,
-<a href="#L">L</a>,
-<a href="#M">M</a>,
-<a href="#N">N</a>,
-<a href="#O">O</a>,
-<a href="#P">P</a>,
-<a href="#R">R</a>,
-<a href="#S">S</a>,
-<a href="#T">T</a>,
-<a href="#U">U</a>,
-<a href="#V">V</a>,
-<a href="#W">W</a>,
-<a href="#Y">Y</a>
-</p>
-
-<p class="nind">
-<a name="A" id="A"></a>Adur, River, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br />
-
-Aella, legend of, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br />
-
-Alfordean Bridge, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br />
-
-Amberley, antiquity of, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">goes back to eighth century, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">position on Arun, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a></span><br />
-
-Amberley Castle, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br />
-
-Anderida, legend of fall of, <a href="#page_60">60-61</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">upon site of Pevensey, <a href="#page_53">53</a></span><br />
-
-Angerming, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Arun, maritime portion of, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br />
-
-Arun River, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its advantages for sailing and boating, <a href="#page_186">186-188</a></span><br />
-
-Arundel, absence of Roman relics in, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early fortification of, <a href="#page_66">66</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">original site of bridge of, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rape of. <i>See</i> Rape of Arundel river valley of, <a href="#page_37">37</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">town of, probable great antiquity of, <a href="#page_107">107-109</a></span><br />
-
-Arundel Castle, new cut-flint work in, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">view from river, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a></span><br />
-
-Ashburnham, family of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-Ashington, family of, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="B" id="B"></a>Bar, absence of, at mouth of Ouse, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
-
-Bar, at mouth of Adur, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br />
-
-Barlavington, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Barnham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Bartelotts of Stopham, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br />
-
-Battle, Monastery of, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">position of, <a href="#page_44">44</a></span><br />
-
-Battle of Hastings, <a href="#page_71">71-74</a><br />
-
-Beach, value of to early navigators, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br />
-
-Beachy Head, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">difficulties of sailing under, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a></span><br />
-
-Beeding, mentioned in Alfred’s will, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-“Belts” for principal longitudinal divisions of Sussex, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br />
-
-Bexhill, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br />
-
-Bignor, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman pavement of, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_55">55</a></span><br />
-
-Billingshurst, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Stane Street, <a href="#page_58">58</a></span><br />
-
-Binsted, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Bishopric, first Sussex, founded, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br />
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192">{192}</a></span>Blunt, family of, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, 134 <a href="#page_191">191</a><br />
-
-Bosham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br />
-
-Boundaries of Sussex, east and west, <a href="#page_5">5</a><br />
-
-Boundary, northern, of Sussex, nature of, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br />
-
-Boxgrove, Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Stane Street, <a href="#page_55">55</a></span><br />
-
-Bramber, a parliamentary borough, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-Bramber Castle, <a href="#page_99">99-100</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">continuity of possession of, <a href="#page_100">100</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of flint building, <a href="#page_31">31</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early fortification of, <a href="#page_66">66</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a></span><br />
-
-Braose, first overlord of Rape of Bramber, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br />
-
-Brighton, importance of in Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">modern development of, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br />
-
-British Road under Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-
-Buckman’s Farm, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br />
-
-Burford Bridge, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br />
-
-Burpham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Arun, <a href="#page_37">37</a></span><br />
-
-Burrell, first Member for Rape of Bramber, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br />
-
-Burton, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a></span><br />
-
-Bury, on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br />
-
-Buttolphs, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">position on Adur, <a href="#page_39">39</a></span><br />
-
-Buxted, late development of, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="C" id="C"></a>Canals from Arun, disused, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br />
-
-Castle Arundel, new cut-flint work in, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Arundel, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bramber, example of flint building, <a href="#page_31">31</a></span><br />
-
-Castles, secondary, of Sussex, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br />
-
-Chanctonbury Ring, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br />
-
-Chichester Harbour, difficulty of entry for small craft, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">marsh bounding Sussex to west, <a href="#page_5">5</a></span><br />
-
-Chichester, principal town of coastal plain, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">site of capital of the Regni, <a href="#page_48">48</a></span><br />
-
-Christian religion destroyed by invasions, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br />
-
-Climping, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Coastal Plain, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">character of landscape of, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">track of journey along, <a href="#page_180">180</a></span><br />
-
-Coast, Sussex, cruising along, <a href="#page_181">181-190</a><br />
-
-Cobden’s Farm, upon belt of loam under the Downs, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-
-Cocking, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br />
-
-Cold Harbour on Stane Street, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br />
-
-Combe, parish of, position on Adur, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br />
-
-Coombes, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-Counties, English, their characteristics, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_2">2</a><br />
-
-Crowborough, disfigurement of, <a href="#page_147">147</a><br />
-
-Crowhurst, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br />
-
-Cuckfield, date of origin of, <a href="#page_84">84</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manor of, history of, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br />
-
-Cuckmere River, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="D" id="D"></a>Dawtreys of Petworth, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193">{193}</a></span>De Albinis, successors to Montgomerys, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br />
-
-Devil’s Dyke, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br />
-
-Dew pans on Downs, <a href="#page_25">25</a><br />
-
-Doomsday, survey of Lewes Rape, <a href="#page_81">81-84</a><br />
-
-Dorking Churchyard, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br />
-
-Downs, difficulty of building on, <a href="#page_21">21</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">earthworks on, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roads across, fewness of, <a href="#page_34">34</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">system of dew pans, <a href="#page_25">25</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">uninhabited, <a href="#page_19">19</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages to south of, <a href="#page_29">29</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages under escarpment of, <a href="#page_28">28</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woods of, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">South, backbone of Sussex, <a href="#page_2">2</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">contour of, <a href="#page_9">9</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">direction of axis of, <a href="#page_10">10</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">nature of, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>see also</i> South Downs</span><br />
-
-Duncton, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="E" id="E"></a>Eartham, Manor of, history of, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br />
-
-Earthworks on Downs, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a><br />
-
-Eastbourne, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br />
-
-Eastergate, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Ecclesiastical power in Rape of Chichester, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br />
-
-Edward the Confessor, importance of reign of, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br />
-
-Egdean, example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-
-English counties, their characteristics, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_2">2</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="F" id="F"></a>Felpham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Feudalism, strength of, in Sussex, <a href="#page_78">78</a><br />
-
-Firle Beacon, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br />
-
-Fittleworth, its position on Western Rother, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br />
-
-Fitz Alans, successors to the de Albinis, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br />
-
-Five Oaks Green, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br />
-
-Flint, method of building with, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br />
-
-Forest Ridge, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a><br />
-
-Fortification, primitive, example of at Kithurst Hill, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br />
-
-Frant, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br />
-
-Fulcking, on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="G" id="G"></a>Gainsford, family of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-Godwin, a Sussex man, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his estates in Sussex, <a href="#page_69">69</a></span><br />
-
-Goring, family of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-Goring, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Graffham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manor and history of, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br />
-
-Gumber Corner, view from, <a href="#page_163">163-173</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="H" id="H"></a>Hailsham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br />
-
-Halnecker Hill, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br />
-
-Harbours, nature of Sussex, <a href="#page_3">3</a><br />
-
-Hardham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman camp at, on Stane St., <a href="#page_56">56</a></span><br />
-
-Hasting, the pirate, his raid, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a><br />
-
-Hastings, Battle of, <a href="#page_71">71-74</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle of, <a href="#page_93">93-97</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">example of value of a beach, <a href="#page_4">4</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">importance of beach to early shipping, <a href="#page_93">93-95</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">name of, <a href="#page_93">93</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">origins of, <a href="#page_93">93-97</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rape of. <i>See</i> Rape of Hastings</span><br />
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194">{194}</a></span>Hastings Bay, method of crossing, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br />
-
-“Hastings Plain,” site of Battle of Hastings, <a href="#page_71">71</a><br />
-
-Hayward’s Heath, <a href="#page_13">13</a><br />
-
-Henfield, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-Heyshott, example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mentioned as Percy Land, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br />
-
-Highden, original home of the Gorings, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br />
-
-Horsham, pronunciation of name of, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rises in thirteenth century, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a></span><br />
-
-Houghton, crossing of Arun at, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br />
-
-Houghton Forest, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br />
-
-Howards, successors to Albinis, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">successors to Mowbrays, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a></span><br />
-
-Hurstpierpoint, survey of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="I" id="I"></a>Invasion, Saxon, of Sussex, <a href="#page_60">60-64</a><br />
-
-Iron industry, importance of to Rape of Pevensey, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br />
-
-Iron industry of Weald, antiquity of, <a href="#page_59">59</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="J" id="J"></a>Juniper Hall, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="K" id="K"></a>Keymer, survey of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br />
-
-Kithurst Hill, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br />
-
-Knepp Castle, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="L" id="L"></a>Lancing, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-Landscapes of Sussex, <a href="#page_150">150-155</a><br />
-
-Lavington, example of sand formation in the Weald, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a></span><br />
-
-Lewes, early fortification of, <a href="#page_66">66</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">importance of in Saxon times, <a href="#page_67">67</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Norman Castle in, <a href="#page_81">81</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">position of on Ouse, <a href="#page_41">41</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rape of (<i>see also</i> Rape of Lewes), <a href="#page_79">79-85</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">site of Battle of, <a href="#page_178">178</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">town, characteristics of, <a href="#page_80">80</a></span><br />
-
-Linch Down, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br />
-
-Littlehampton, at mouth of Arun, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">difficulty of entry, and outside anchorage described, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a></span><br />
-
-Loam, belt of, villages upon, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-
-Looe Stream, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="M" id="M"></a>Madehurst, Manor of, history of, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br />
-
-Marshes bounding Sussex to east and west, <a href="#page_5">5</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">destruction of Roman roads in, <a href="#page_6">6</a></span><br />
-
-Mayfield, first of Sussex line of ecclesiastical palaces, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br />
-
-Midhurst, its position on Western Rother, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">late development of, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br />
-
-Monasteries of Sussex, <a href="#page_117">117-119</a><br />
-
-Montgomerys, first overlords of Rape of Arundel, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br />
-
-Morton, first overlord of Rape of Pevensey, <a href="#page_87">87</a><br />
-
-Mount Caburn, example of prehistoric fortification, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br />
-
-Mowbrays, successors to Braose, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="N" id="N"></a>Nature of Sussex Harbours, <a href="#page_3">3</a><br />
-
-Newhaven Harbour, advantages and disadvantages of, for small craft, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br />
-
-Newhaven, position at mouth of Ouse, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
-
-Newtimber, Manor of, history of, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br />
-
-Norman Conquest in Sussex, <a href="#page_69">69-74</a><br />
-
-Northchapel, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br />
-
-Northern boundary of Sussex, nature of, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br />
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">{195}</a></span>Northstoke on Arun, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="O" id="O"></a>Ockley (in Surrey), on Stane Street, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br />
-
-Ouse, river, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
-
-Owers Lightship, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br />
-
-Oxenbridge, family of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="P" id="P"></a>Palmers of Angerming, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-Parham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Peasantry of Sussex, character of, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br />
-
-Petworth, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Pevensey, ancient geographical position of, <a href="#page_89">89</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celtic derivation of the name, <a href="#page_87">87</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decline of, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Level, termination of the Wealdon flats on the sea, <a href="#page_11">11</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rape of, <i>see</i> Rape of Pevensey</span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman remains in, <a href="#page_88">88</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">site of Anderida, <a href="#page_53">53</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">William the Conqueror lands there, <a href="#page_71">71</a></span><br />
-
-Pine trees, comparatively recent in Sussex, <a href="#page_153">153-154</a><br />
-
-Place names, Sussex, <a href="#page_61">61</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Sussex, pronunciation of, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a></span><br />
-
-Plain, Coastal, <i>see</i> Coastal<br />
-
-Poynings, on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-
-Prehistory of Sussex unknown, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br />
-
-Pulborough, its position on Arun, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br />
-
-Pulborough Bridge, point where Stane Street crossed the Arun, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="R" id="R"></a>Rackham Hill, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br />
-
-Rape of Arundel, <a href="#page_104">104-113</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Arundel, Montgomerys first overlords of, <a href="#page_106">106</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bramber, <a href="#page_99">99-104</a></span><br />
-
-Rape of Bramber, Braose first overlord of, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chichester, <a href="#page_113">113-117</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hastings, <a href="#page_91">91-99</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lewes, growth of, <a href="#page_79">79-85</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">its central character, <a href="#page_85">85</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">original harbour of, <a href="#page_82">82</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lewes, William of Warren first overlord of, <a href="#page_82">82</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pevensey, <a href="#page_87">87-91</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pevensey, importance of iron industry, <a href="#page_90">90</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pevensey, Morton first overlord of, <a href="#page_87">87</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pevensey, shape of, <a href="#page_86">86</a></span><br />
-
-Rapes, divisions of Sussex, <a href="#page_77">77</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">number and origin of, <a href="#page_78">78</a></span><br />
-
-Regni, Sussex tribe, <a href="#page_48">48</a><br />
-
-Ridge, forest, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br />
-
-Rings of woods on Downs, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br />
-
-Rivers of Sussex, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_35">35-44</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">give rise to earliest settlements, <a href="#page_4">4</a></span><br />
-
-River valley, nature of Sussex, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br />
-
-River valleys of Sussex, not used by main roads, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br />
-
-Robertsbridge, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monastery of, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">position of, on Rother, <a href="#page_44">44</a></span><br />
-
-Roman basis of Sussex civilisation, <a href="#page_48">48-59</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp at Hardham, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_56">56</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fortifications at Alfordean Bridge, <a href="#page_58">58</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Road, Stane Street, crossing Arun, <a href="#page_36">36</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Road, Stane Street, fully described, <a href="#page_54">54-58</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roads destroyed in marshes, <a href="#page_6">6</a></span><br />
-
-Roman’s Wood, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br />
-
-Rother, river of, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Valley of, marshes in, bound Sussex eastward, <a href="#page_5">5</a></span><br />
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196">{196}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Western, <a href="#page_35">35</a></span><br />
-
-Rotherfield, antiquity of, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br />
-
-Rottingdean, in Doomsday survey of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">modern disfigurement of, <a href="#page_139">139</a></span><br />
-
-Rusper, late mention of, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br />
-
-Rye, antiquity and original conditions of, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">harbour of, difficulty of entry, <a href="#page_182">182</a></span><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="S" id="S"></a>Saddlescombe, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br />
-
-Saint Wilfrid, story of, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br />
-
-Sand formations in the Weald, <a href="#page_13">13</a><br />
-
-Saxon invasions of Sussex, <a href="#page_60">60-64</a><br />
-
-See of Selsea, founded, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br />
-
-Senlac, discussion of the name, <a href="#page_72">72</a><br />
-
-Shelleys, family of, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br />
-
-Shipley, developed in twelfth century, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br />
-
-Shoreham Harbour, entry of for small craft, described, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br />
-
-Shoreham, Old, position on Adur, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rise and decline of, <a href="#page_102">102-103</a></span><br />
-
-Singleton, in Doomsday, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manor of, history of, <a href="#page_130">130</a></span><br />
-
-Slinfold, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br />
-
-South Downs, backbone of Sussex, <a href="#page_3">3</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">contour of, <a href="#page_9">9</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">journey along crest of described, <a href="#page_161">161-180</a></span><br />
-
-Southstoke on Arun, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br />
-
-Squires, rise of the power of, and disintegration of feudal system, <a href="#page_119">119-125</a><br />
-
-St. Denis, monastery of, original lords of Rotherfield, <a href="#page_90">90</a><br />
-
-“St. George and the Dragon” Inn at Houghton, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br />
-
-St. Leonard’s Forest, originallv Braose Land, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br />
-
-Stane Street, appearance of Gumber Corner, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman road, crossing Arun, <a href="#page_36">36</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 2em;">fully described, <a href="#page_54">54-58</a></span><br />
-
-Stenes, southern valleys of Downs, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br />
-
-Steyning, on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-
-Stopham, junction of Western Rother and Arun, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br />
-
-Storrington, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a></span><br />
-
-Strickland, family of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br />
-
-Sussex, bounded by the Weald, <a href="#page_2">2</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">character of peasant in, <a href="#page_144">144</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">created from the sea, <a href="#page_2">2</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">east, gradual disfigurement of, <a href="#page_146">146</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">epithet “Scilly” applied to, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">exploration of east and west, <a href="#page_159">159-161</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feudalism, strength of, <a href="#page_78">78</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">general plan of, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">grouped round the South Downs, <a href="#page_2">2</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">isolation in prehistoric times, <a href="#page_47">47</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">landscapes of, <a href="#page_150">150-155</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natural boundaries of, east and west, <a href="#page_5">5</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">northern boundary of, nature of, <a href="#page_8">8</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peasant, character of, <a href="#page_148">148</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peculiar dialect of, somewhat exaggerated, <a href="#page_143">143</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">place names, <a href="#page_51">51</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">place names, pronunciation of, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_35">35-44</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers of, determined the first settlements, <a href="#page_4">4</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sharp division in east and west, <a href="#page_144">144</a></span><br />
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197">{197}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">towns developed later according to distance from sea, <a href="#page_7">7</a></span><br />
-
-Sutton, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="T" id="T"></a>Thatch, excellence of in Sussex, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br />
-
-Theakham, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br />
-
-Tortington, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monastery of, <a href="#page_119">119</a></span><br />
-
-Towns, Sussex, developed later according to distance from sea, <a href="#page_7">7</a><br />
-
-Tumuli above Duncton Hill, <a href="#page_27">27</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Downs, <a href="#page_27">27</a></span><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="U" id="U"></a>Uckfield, late development of, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br />
-
-Upper Waltham, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="V" id="V"></a>Valleys, to south of Downs, called stenes, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br />
-
-Villages to south of Downs, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">under escarpment of Downs, <a href="#page_29">29</a></span><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="W" id="W"></a>Walberton, mentioned in Doomsday, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br />
-
-Warren, the family of overlords of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br />
-
-Warren, William of, first overlord of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_82">82</a><br />
-
-Washington, on old British trackway under the Downs, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pass over Downs at, <a href="#page_176">176</a></span><br />
-
-Watering-places, growth of, <a href="#page_136">136-142</a><br />
-
-Weald and parishes, shape of, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bounding Sussex to the north, <a href="#page_2">2</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forest track through, present itinerary of described, <a href="#page_156">156-159</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">general character of, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a></span><br />
-<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its military function at Norman Conquest, <a href="#page_73">73-76</a></span><br />
-
-West Dean House, example of flint building, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br />
-
-West Hampnet, on Stane Street, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br />
-
-Wilfrid, Saint, story of, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br />
-
-Willingdon Hill, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br />
-
-Winchelsea, antiquity of and original conditions of, <a href="#page_92">92</a><br />
-
-Wolstonbury Hill, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br />
-
-Woods of the Downs, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br />
-
-Worth, last stage of development of Rape of Lewes, <a href="#page_84">84</a><br />
-
-<br />
-<a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yapton, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="fint">THE END<br /><br /><br />
-<i>Printed by</i> <span class="smcap">R. &amp; R. Clark, Limited</span>,
-<i>Edinburgh</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198">{198}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199">{199}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200">{200}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201">{201}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
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-<p>This series of books is chiefly distinguished by its exquisite
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-<br />
-EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS<br />
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