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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..35b1c65 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #67790 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67790) diff --git a/old/67790-0.txt b/old/67790-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 44690cd..0000000 --- a/old/67790-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4748 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Mirror of the Graces, by Unknown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Mirror of the Graces - Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, - Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female - Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation - of Health and Beauty - -Author: Unknown - -Release Date: April 7, 2022 [eBook #67790] - -Language: English - -Produced by: MWS and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive/American - Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE -GRACES *** - - - - - - THE - - MIRROR OF THE GRACES. - - CONTAINING - - GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS - - FOR COMBINING - - ELEGANCE, SIMPLICITY, AND ECONOMY - - WITH FASHION IN DRESS; - - HINTS ON FEMALE ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND MANNERS; - - AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF - - HEALTH AND BEAUTY. - - BY A LADY OF DISTINCTION. - - “If Beauty be woman’s weapon, it must be feathered by the Graces, - pointed by the eye of Discretion, and shot by the hand of Virtue.” - - FROM THE LONDON EDITION. - - BOSTON: - PUBLISHED BY FREDERIC S. HILL, - NO. 7, WATER STREET. - - 1831. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - Preliminary Observations on the Subject 5 - - General Remarks on the Manners and Fashions of the - Past and Present Times 14 - - On the Female Form 19 - - The same Subject, of Female Beauty, more explicitly - considered 34 - - General Thoughts on Dress and Personal Decoration 48 - - On the Peculiarities of Dress, with reference to the - Station of the Wearer 68 - - Of the Detail of Dress 82 - - On Deportment 105 - - Peculiarities in Carriage and Demeanor 110 - - On the Management of the Person in Dancing, and in - the exercise of other Female Accomplishments 126 - - Continuation of the same Subject 149 - - Conclusion 156 - - - APPENDIX. - - On the Use of Corsets 163 - - On the Ladies’ Passion for Levelling all Distinction of - Dress 173 - - Recipes 183 - - - - - MIRROR - - OF - - THE GRACES. - - - - -PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS ON THE SUBJECT. - - “Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed; - For contemplation he, and valor formed; - For softness she, and sweet attractive grace; - He for God only, she for God in him.” - - MILTON. - - -In discoursing on the degree of consequence, in the scale of creation, -that may be allowed to the human body, two extremes are generally -adopted. Epicureans, for obvious reasons, exalt our corporeal part to -the first rank; and Stoics, by opposite deductions, degrade it to the -last. But to neither of these opinions can the writer of these pages -concede. - -The body is as much a part of the human creature as the mind; by its -outward expression, we convey to others a sense of our opinions, -hopes, fears, and affections--we communicate love, and we excite it. -We enjoy, not only the pleasures of the senses, but the delights which -shoot from mind to mind, in the pressure of a hand, the glance of an -eye, and the whisper of the heart. Shall we then despise this ready and -obedient vehicle of all that passes within the invisible soul? Shall -we contemn it as a lump of encumbering clay--as a piece of corruption, -fitter for the charnel-house than the bosom of affection? - -These ascetic ideas may be consistent with the thankless superstition -of the ancient Zenos, or the modern fanatics, who see neither beauty -nor joyfulness in the works of the bounteous Lord of Nature; but the -rational and fair-judging mind, which acknowledges “use and decency” -in all the Creator’s works, while it turns from the pagan devotion -which the libertine pays to his own body, regards that inferior part -of himself with the respect which is due to it in consideration of its -Maker and its purpose. - -“Reverence thyself!” says the philosopher, not only with relation to -the mind which directs, but to the body which executes. God created the -body, not only for usefulness, but adorned it with loveliness; and what -he has made so pleasing, shall we disesteem, and refuse to apply to its -admirable destination?--The very approving and innocent complacency -we all feel in the contemplation of beauty, whether it be that of a -landscape or of a flower, is a sufficient witness that the pleasure -which pervades our hearts at the sight of human charms, was planted -there by the Divine Framer of all things, as a principle of delight and -social attraction. To this end, then, I seek to turn your attention, -my fair countrywomen, upon YOURSELVES!--not only to the cultivation of -your minds, but to maintain in its intended station that inferior part -of yourselves, which mistaken gravity would, on the one hand, lead you -to neglect as altogether worthless; and vanity, on the other, incline -you too much to cherish, and egregiously to over-value. - -From this you will gather, that the PERSON of a woman is the primary -subject of this discourse. - -Mothers, perhaps, (those estimable mothers who value the souls as -the better parts of their daughters,) may start at such a text. But -I call them to recollect, that it is “good all things should be in -order!” This is a period when absurdity, bad taste, shamelessness, and -self-interest, in the shapes of tire-men and tire-women, have arranged -themselves in close siege around the beauty, and even chastity, of your -daughters; and to preserve these graces in their original purity, I, a -woman of virtue and a Christian, do not think it beneath my dignity to -lift my pen. - -Dr. Knox will not refuse to be my auxiliary, as a grave auxiliary -may be necessary to give consequence to a subject usually deemed so -trivial. “Taste requires a congruity between the internal character -and the external appearance,” says he; “and the imagination will -involuntarily form to itself an idea of such a correspondence. First -ideas are in general of considerable consequence; and I should, -therefore, think it wise in the female world to take care that -their _appearance_ should not convey a forbidding idea to the most -superficial observer.” - -Another author shall speak for me besides this respected moralist. -The very High Priest of the Graces, the discriminating Chesterfield, -declared, that “a prepossessing exterior is a perpetual letter of -recommendation.” To show how different such an exterior is from -affectation and extravagance, is one object of these pages; and I hope -that my fair and candid readers will, after perusal, lay them down with -a conviction that beauty is a blessing, and is to be used with maidenly -discretion; that modesty is grace; simplicity elegance; and consistency -the charm which rivets the attracted heart of well-judging men. - -That you have sought my sentiments on these subjects makes it easier -to me to enter into the minute detail I meditate. Indeed, I have -ever blamed, as impolitic, the austerity which condemns, without -distinction, any attention to personal appearance. It is surely -more reasonable to direct the youthful mind to that medium between -negligence and nicety which will preserve the person in health and -elegance, than, by leaving a young woman ignorant of the real and -supposed advantages of these graces, render her liable to learn the -truth in the worst way from strangers, who will either insult her -aggravated deformity, or teach her to set off her before-obscured -charms with, perhaps, meretricious assistance. - -It is unjust and dangerous to hold out false lights to young persons; -for, finding that their guides have, in one respect, designedly led -them astray, they may be led likewise to reject as untrue all else -they have been taught; and so nothing but disappointment, error, and -rebellion can be the consequence. - -Let girls advancing to womanhood be told the true state of the world -with which they are to mingle. Let them know its real opinions on the -subjects connected with themselves as women, companions, friends, -relatives. Hide not from them what society thinks and expects on all -these matters; but fail not to show them, at the same time, where the -fashions of the day would lead them wrong--where the laws of heaven and -man’s approving (though not always submitting) reason, would keep them -right. - -Let religion and morality be the foundation of the female character. -The artist may then adorn the structure without any danger to its -safety. When a girl is instructed on the great purposes of her -existence,--that she is an immortal being, as well as a mortal -woman,--you may, without fearing ill impressions, show her, that as we -admire the beauty of the rose, as well as esteem its medicinal power, -so her personal charms will be dear in the eyes of him whose heart is -occupied by the graces of her yet more estimable mind. We may safely -teach a well-educated girl, that virtue ought to wear an inviting -aspect--that it is due to her excellence to decorate her comely -apparel. But we must never cease to remember that it is VIRTUE we seek -to adorn. It must not be a merely beautiful form; for that, if it -possess not the charm of intelligence, the bond of rational tenderness, -is a frame without a soul--a statue which we look on and admire, pass -away and forget. We must impress upon the yet ingenuous maid, that -while beauty attracts, its influence is transient, unless it presents -itself as the harbinger of that good sense and principle which can -alone secure the affection of a husband, the esteem of friends, and the -respect of the world. Show her that regularity of features and symmetry -of form are not essentials in the composition of the woman whom the -wise man would select as the partner of his life. Seek, as an example, -some one of your less fair acquaintance, whose sweet disposition, -gentle manners, and winning deportment, render her the delight of her -kindred, the dear solace of her husband. Show your young and lovely -pupil what use this amiable woman has made of her few talents; and then -call on her to cultivate her more extraordinary endowments to the glory -of her Creator, the honor of her parents, and to the maintenance of her -own happiness in both worlds. To do this, requires that her aims should -be virtuous, and the means she employs to reach them of the same nature. - -We know, from every record under heaven, from the sacred page to -that of the heathen world, that woman was made to be the help-mate -of man--that, by rendering herself pleasing in his sight, she is the -assuager of his pains, the solacer of his wo, the sharer of his joys, -the chief agent in the communication of his sublunary bliss. This -is beautifully alluded to in the Book of Genesis, where the work of -Creation is represented as incomplete, and the felicity of Paradise -itself imperfect, till woman was bestowed to consummate its delights:-- - - “The world was sad! the garden was a wild; - And man, the hermit, sighed--till woman smiled.” - -We have all read in the sacred oracles, that “a woman’s desire is unto -her husband!” and for that tender relation, the first on earth, (for, -before the bonds of relationship, man and woman became a wedded pair,) -woman must leave father and mother, and cleave unto him alone. Hence, -I shall no longer beg the question, whether it be not right that a -chaste maid should adorn herself with the graces of youth and modesty, -and, with a sober reference to the duties of her sex, present herself a -candidate for the love and protection of manliness and virtue, in the -most agreeable manner possible. - -By making the fairness of the body the sign of the mind’s purity, man -is imperceptibly attracted to the object designed for him by Heaven as -the partner of his life, the future mother of his children, and the -angel which is to accompany him into eternity. Hence, insignificant -as the means may seem, the end is great; and poor as we may choose to -consider them, we all feel their effects, and enjoy their sweetness. - -Having thus explained my subject, my fair friends will readily -perceive, that there cannot be anything hostile to female delicacy in -the prosecution of my scheme. I give to woman all her privileges; I -allow her the empire of all her personal charms; I will assist her to -increase their force: but it must be with a constant reference to their -being the ensign of her more estimable mental attractions. She must -never suppose that when I insist on attention to person and manners, -I forget the mind and heart; or when I commend external grace, that I -pass unregarded the internal beauty of the virgin soul. - -In order to give a regular and perspicuous elucidation of the several -branches of my subject, I shall arrange them under separate heads. -Sometimes I may illustrate by observations drawn from abroad, at other -times by remarks collected at home. Having been a traveller in my -youth, whilst visiting foreign courts with my husband, on an errand -connected with the general welfare of nations, I could not overlook the -influence which the women of every country hold over the morals and -happiness of the opposite sex in every rank and degree. - -Fine taste in apparel I have ever seen the companion of pure morals, -whilst a licentious style of dress was as certainly the token of -the like laxity in manners and conduct. To correct this dangerous -fashion, ought to be the study and attempt of every mother--of every -daughter--of every woman. - - - - -GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANNERS AND FASHIONS OF THE PAST AND PRESENT -TIMES. - - “Manners with fortunes, humors turn with climes, - Tenets with books, and principles with times.” - - POPE. - - -When Innocence left the world, astonished man blushed at his own -and his partner’s nakedness, and coverings were soon invented. For -many an age, the twisted foliage of trees, and the skins of beasts, -were the only garments which clothed our ancestors. Decoration was -unknown, excepting the wild flower, plucked from the luxuriant shrub, -the shell from the beach, or the berry off the tree. Nature was then -unsophisticated; and the lover looked for no other attraction in his -bride, than the peach-bloom on her cheek--the downcast softness of her -consenting eye. - -In after times, when Avarice ploughed the earth, and Ambition bestrode -it, the gem and the silken fleece, the various product of the loom, -and the Tyrian mystery of dyes, all united to give embellishments to -beauty, and splendor to majesty of mien. But even at that period, when -the east and south laid their decorating riches at the feet of woman, -we see, by the sculpture yet remaining to us, that the dames of Greece -(the then exemplars of the world) were true to the simple laws of just -taste. The amply-folding robe, cast round the harmonious form; the -modest clasp and zone on the bosom; the braided hair, or the veiled -head; these were the fashions alike of the wife of a Phocion, and the -mistress of an Alcibiades. A chastened taste ruled at their toilets; -and from that hour to this, the forms and modes of Greece have been -those of the poet, the sculptor, and the painter. - -Rome, queen of the world! the proud dictatress to Athenian and Spartan -dames, disdained not to array herself in their dignified attire; and -the statues of her virgins, her matrons, and her empresses, show, in -every portico of her ancient streets, the graceful fashions of her -Grecian province. - -The irruption of the Goths and Vandals made it needful for women to -assume a more repulsive garb. The flowing robe, the easy shape, the -soft, unfettered hair, gave place to skirts, shortened for flight or -contest--to the hardened vest, and head buckled in gold or silver. - -Thence, by a natural descent, have we the iron boddice, stiff -farthingale, and spiral coiffure, of the middle ages. The courts of -Charlemagne, of our Edwards, Henries, and Elizabeth, all exhibit -the figures of women as if in a state of siege. Such lines of -circumvallation and outworks; such impregnable bulwarks of whale-bone, -wood, and steel; such impassable mazes of gold, silver, silk, and -furbelows, met a man’s view, that, before he had time to guess it was -a woman that he saw, she had passed from his sight; and he only formed -a vague wish on the subject, by hearing, from an interested father or -brother, that the moving castle was one of the softer sex. - -These preposterous fashions disappeared, in England, a short time after -the Restoration; they had been a little on the wane during the more -classic, though distressful reign of Charles I.; and what the beautiful -pencil of Vandyke shows us, in the graceful dress of Lady Carlisle and -Sacharissa, was rendered yet more correspondent to the soft undulations -of nature, in the garments of the lovely, but frail beauties of the -Second Charles’s court. But as change too often is carried to extremes, -in this case the unzoned tastes of the English ladies thought no -freedom too free; their vestments were gradually unloosened of the -brace, until another touch would have exposed the wearer to no thicker -covering than the ambient air. - -The matron reign of Anne, in some measure, corrected this indecency. -But it was not till the accession of the House of Brunswick, that it -was finally exploded, and gave way by degrees to the ancient mode of -female fortification, by introducing the hideous Parisian fashion of -hoops, buckram stays, waists to the hips, screwed to the circumference -of a wasp, brocaded silks stiff with gold, shoes with heels so high as -to set the wearer on her toes; and heads, for quantity of false hair, -either horse or human, and height to outweigh, and perhaps outreach, -the Tower of Babel! These were the figures which our grandmothers -exhibited; nay, such was the appearance I myself made in my early -youth; and something like it may yet be seen at a drawing-room, on -court-days. - -When the arts of Sculpture and Painting, in their fine specimens from -the chisels of Greece and the pencils of Italy, were brought into this -country, taste began to mould the dress of our female youth after their -more graceful fashion. The health-destroying boddice was laid aside; -brocades and whale-bone disappeared; and the easy shape and flowing -drapery again resumed the rights of nature and of grace. The bright -hues of auburn, raven, or golden tresses, adorned the head in its -native simplicity, putting to shame the few powdered _toupees_, which -yet lingered on the brow of prejudice and deformity. - -Thus, for a short time, did the Graces indeed preside at the toilet of -the British beauty; but a strange caprice seems now to have dislodged -these gentle handmaids. Here stands affectation distorting the form -into a thousand unnatural shapes; and there, ill-taste, loading it -with grotesque ornaments, gathered (and mingled confusedly) from -Grecian and Roman models, from Egypt, China, Turkey, and Hindostan. -All nations are ransacked to equip a modern fine lady; and, after all, -she may perhaps strike a contemporary _beau_ as _a fine lady_, but no -son of nature could, at a glance, possibly find out that she meant to -represent an _elegant woman_. - -To impress upon your minds, my fair friends, that symmetry of figure -ought ever to be accompanied by harmony of dress, and that there is a -certain propriety in habiliment adapted to form, age, and degree, shall -be the purport of my next observations. - - - - -ON THE FEMALE FORM. - - “Who doth not feel, until his aching sight - Faints into dimness with its own delight, - His changing cheek, his sinking heart, confess - The might, the majesty of loveliness?” - - BYRON. - - -To preserve the health of the human form, is the first object of -consideration. This is of primary importance, for with its health we -necessarily maintain its symmetry, and improve its beauty. - -The foundation of a just proportion, in all its parts, must be laid -in infancy; for, “as the twig is bent, the tree’s inclined.” A light -dress, which gives freedom to the functions of life and action, is -the best adapted to permit unobstructed growth; for thence the young -fibres, uninterrupted by obstacles of art, will shoot harmoniously -into the form which nature drew. The garb of childhood should in all -respects be easy; not to impede its movements by ligatures on the -chest, the loins, the legs, or the arms. By this liberty, we shall -see the muscles of the limbs gradually assume the fine swell and -insertions which only unconstrained exercise can produce. The shape -will sway gracefully on the firmly poised waist; the chest will rise -in noble and healthy expanse; and the human figure will start forward -at the blooming age of youth, maturing into the full perfection of -unsophisticated nature. - -The lovely form of woman, in particular, thus educated, or rather thus -left to its natural bias, assumes a variety of interesting characters. -In one youthful figure, we see the lineaments of a wood-nymph; a form -slight and elastic in all its parts. The shape, - - “Small by degrees, and beautifully less, - From the soft bosom to the tender waist!” - -A foot light as that of her whose flying step scarcely brushed the -“unbending corn;” and limbs, whose agile grace moved in gay harmony -with the turns of her swan-like neck and sparkling eyes. - -Another fair one appears with the chastened dignity of a vestal. -Her proportions are of a less aërial outline. As she draws near, we -perceive that the contour of her figure is on a broader and less -flexible scale than that of her more ethereal sister. Euphrosyne speaks -in the one, Melpomene in the other. - -Between these two lies the whole range of female character in form; -and, in proportion as the figure approaches the one extreme or the -other, we call it grave or gay, majestic or graceful. Not but that -the same person may, by a happy combination of charms, unite these -qualities in different degrees, as we sometimes see graceful majesty -and majestic grace. Unless the commanding figure softens the amplitude -of its contour with a gentle elegance, it may possess a sort of regal -consequence, but it will be that of a heavy and harsh importance; -and, on the other hand, unless the slight and airy form, full of -youth and animal spirits, superadds to these attractions the grace of -a restraining dignity, her vivacity will be deemed levity, and her -activity the romping of a wild hoyden. - -Young women, therefore, when they present themselves to the world, must -not implicitly fashion their demeanors according to the levelling rules -of the generality of school-governesses; but, considering the character -of their own figures, allow their deportment, and select their dress, -to follow and correct the bias of nature. - -There is a class of female contour which bears such faint marks of any -positive character, that the best advice I can give to them who have -it, is to assume that of the sedate. Such an appearance is unobtrusive; -it is amiable, and not only secure from animadversion, but very likely -to awaken respect and love. Indeed, in all cases, a modest reserve is -essential to the perfection of feminine attraction. - -As it has been observed, that, during the period of youth, different -women wear a variety of characters, such as the gay, the grave, &c. -when it is found that even this loveliest season of life places its -subjects in varying lights, how necessary does it seem that women -should carry this idea yet further by analogy, and recollect that she -has a summer as well as a spring, an autumn, and a winter! As the -aspect of the earth alters with the changes of the year, so does the -appearance of a woman adapt itself to the time which passes over her. -Like the rose, she buds, she blooms, she fades, she dies! - -When the freshness of virgin youth vanishes--when Delia passes her -teens, and approaches her thirtieth year, she may then consider her -day as at the meridian; but the sun which shines so brightly on her -beauties, declines while it displays them. A few short years, and the -jocund step, the airy habit, the sportive manner, must all be exchanged -for “faltering steps and slow.” Before this happens, it would be well -for her to remember that it is wiser to throw a shadow over her yet -unimpaired charms, than to hold them in the light till they are seen to -decay. - -Each age has an appropriate style of figure and pleasing; and it is -the business of discernment and taste to discover and maintain those -advantages in their due seasons. - -The general characteristics of youth, are meek dignity, chastened -sportiveness, and gentle seriousness. Middle age has the privilege of -preserving, unaltered, the graceful majesty and tender gravity which -may have marked its earlier years. But the gay manners of the comic -muse must, in the advance of life, be discreetly softened down into -little more than cheerful amenity. Time marches on, and another change -takes place. Amiable as the former characteristics may be, they must -give way to the sober, the venerable aspect with which age, experience, -and “a soul commercing with the skies,” ought to adorn the silver hairs -of the Christian matron. - -Nature having maintained a harmony between the figure of woman and -her years, it is decorous that the consistency should extend to -the materials and fashion of her apparel. For youth to dress like -age, is an instance of bad taste seldom seen. But age, affecting -the airy garments of youth, the transparent _drapery of Cos_, and -the sportiveness of a girl, is an anachronism as frequent as it is -ridiculous. - -Virgin, bridal Beauty, when she arrays herself with taste, obeys an -end of her creation--that of increasing her charms in the eyes of some -virtuous lover, or the husband of her bosom. She is approved. But when -the wrinkled fair, the hoary-headed matron, attempts to equip herself -for conquest, to awaken sentiments which, when the bloom on her cheek -has disappeared, her rouge can never recall; and, despite of all her -efforts, we can perceive “_memento mori_” written on her face, then -we cannot but deride her folly, or, in pity, counsel her rather to -seek for charms, the mental graces of Madame de Sevigné, than the -meretricious arts of Ninon de l’Enclos. - -But that, in some cases, wrinkles may be long warded off, and auburn -locks preserve a lengthened freshness, is not to be denied; and, where -nature prolongs the youth of a Helen or a Sarah, it is not for man -to see her otherwise. These are rare instances; and, in the minds of -rational women, ought rather to excite wonder, than desire to emulate -their extended reign. But what ought to be, we know is not always -adopted. St. Evremond has told us, that “a woman’s last sighs are for -her beauty;” and what this wit has advanced, the sex has ever been -too ready to confirm. A strange kind of art, a sort of sorcery, is -prescribed by tradition, and in books, in the form of cosmetics, &c., -to preserve female charms in perpetual youth. But I fear that, until -these composts can be concocted in Medea’s caldron, they will never -have any better effect than exercising the faith and patience of the -credulous dupes, who expect to find the _elixir vitæ_ in any mixture -under heaven. - -The rules which I would lay down for the preservation of the bloom of -beauty, during its natural life, are few, and easy of access. And, -besides having advantage of speaking from my own wide and minute -observation, I have the authorities of the most eminent physicians of -every age, to support my argument. - -The secret of preserving beauty lies in three things,--temperance, -exercise, and cleanliness.--From these few heads, I hope much good -instruction may be deduced. _Temperance_ includes moderation at -table, and in the enjoyment of what the world calls pleasure. A young -beauty, were she fair as Hebe, and elegant as the Goddess of Love -herself, would soon lose these charms by a course of inordinate eating, -drinking, and late hours. - -I guess that my delicate young readers will start at this last -sentence, and wonder how it can be that any well-bred woman should -think it possible that pretty ladies could be guilty of either of -the two first-mentioned excesses. But, when I speak of _inordinate_ -eating, &c., I do not mean feasting like a glutton, or drinking to -intoxication. My objection is not more against the quantity than the -quality of the dishes which constitute the usual repast of women of -fashion. Their breakfasts not only set forth tea and coffee, but -chocolate, and _hot_ bread and butter. Both of these latter articles, -when taken constantly, are hostile to health and female delicacy. -The heated grease, which is their principal ingredient, deranges the -stomach; and, by creating or increasing bilious disorders, gradually -overspreads the fair skin with a wan or yellow hue. After this meal, -a long and exhausting fast not unfrequently succeeds, from ten in the -morning till six or seven in the evening, when dinner is served up; -and the half-famished beauty sits down to sate a keen appetite with -Cayenne soups, fish, French patées steaming with garlic, roast and -boiled meat, game, tarts, sweetmeats, ices, fruits, &c. &c. &c. How -must the constitution suffer under the digestion of this _melange_! -How does the heated complexion bear witness to the combustion within! -And, when we consider that the beverage she takes to dilute this mass -of food, and assuage the consequent fever in her stomach, is not merely -water from the spring, but champagne, madeira, and other wines, foreign -and domestic, you cannot wonder that I should warn the inexperienced -creature against intemperance. The superabundance of aliment which -she takes in at this time, is not only destructive of beauty, but the -period of such repletion is full of other dangers. Long fasting wastes -the powers of digestion, and weakens the springs of life. In this -enfeebled state, at the hour when nature intends we should prepare for -general repose, we put our stomach and animal spirits to extraordinary -exertion. Our vital functions are overtasked and overloaded;--we become -hectic--for observation strongly declares that invalid and delicate -persons should rarely eat solids after three o’clock in the day, as -fever is generally the consequence; and thus, almost every complaint -that distresses and destroys the human frame, may be engendered. - - “When hunger calls, obey; nor often wait - Till hunger sharpen to corrosive pain; - For the keen appetite will feast beyond - What nature well can bear; and one extreme - Ne’er without danger meets its own reverse.” - -Besides, when we add to this evil the present mode of bracing the -digestive part of the body, in what is called _long stays_, to what -an extent must reach the baneful effects of a protracted and abundant -repast? Indeed, I am fully persuaded that long fasting, late dining, -and the excessive repletion then taken into the exhausted stomach, -with the tight pressure of steel and whalebone on the most susceptible -parts of the frame then called into action, and the midnight, nay, -morning hours, of lingering pleasure, are the positive causes of colds -taken, bilious fevers, consumptions, and atrophies. By the means -enumerated, the firm texture of the constitution is broken, and the -principles of health being in a manner decomposed, the finest parts -fly off, and the dregs maintain the poor survivor of herself, in a sad -kind of artificial existence. Delicate proportion gives place either -to miserable leanness or shapeless fat. The once fair skin assumes a -pallid rigidity, or a bloated redness, which the vain possessor would -still regard as the roses of health and beauty. - -To repair these ravages, comes the aid of padding, to give shape where -there is none; long stays, to compress into form the chaos of flesh; -and paints of all hues, to rectify the disorder of the complexion. But -useless are these attempts. If dissipation, disease, and immoderation, -have wrecked the fair vessel of female charms, it is not in the power -of Esculapius himself to refit the shattered bark; or of the Syrens, -with all their songs and wiles, to conjure its battered sides from the -rocks, and make it ride the seas in gallant trim again. - -It is with pleasure that I turn from this ruin of all that is -beauteous and lovely, to the cheering hope of preserving every charm -unimpaired; and by means which the most ingenuous mind need not blush -to acknowledge. - -The rules, I repeat, are few. First, _Temperance_: a well-timed use of -the table, and so moderate a pursuit of pleasure, that the midnight -ball, assembly, and theatre, shall not too frequently recur. - -My next specific is that of gentle and daily _Exercise_ in the open -air. Nature teaches us, in the gambols and sportiveness of the young of -the lower animals, that bodily exertion is necessary for the growth, -vigor, and symmetry of the animal frame; while the too studious -scholar, and the indolent man of luxury, exhibit in themselves the -pernicious consequences of the want of exercise. - -This may be almost always obtained, either on horseback or on foot, -in fine weather; and when that is denied, in a carriage. Country -air in the fields, or in gardens, when breathed at proper hours, -is an excellent bracer of the nerves, and a sure brightener of the -complexion. But these hours are neither under the mid-day sun in -summer, when its beams scorch the skin and ferment the blood; nor -beneath the dews of evening, when the imperceptible damps, saturating -the thinly-clad body, send the wanderer home infected with the disease -that is to lay her, ere a returning spring, in the silent tomb! Both -these periods are pregnant with danger to delicacy and carelessness. - -The morning, about two or three hours after sunrise, is the most -salubrious time for a vigorous walk. But, as the day advances, if -you choose to prolong the sweet enjoyment of the open air, then the -thick wood or shady lane will afford refreshing shelter from the too -intense heat of the sun. In short, the morning and evening dew, and the -unrepelled blaze of a summer noon, must alike be ever avoided as the -enemies of health and beauty. - - “Fly, if you can, these violent extremes - Of air; the wholesome is nor moist nor dry.” - - ARMSTRONG. - -_Cleanliness_, my last recipe, (and which is, like the others, -applicable to all ages,) is of most powerful efficacy. It maintains the -limbs in their pliancy, the skin in its softness, the complexion in -its lustre, the eyes in their brightness, the teeth in their purity, -and the constitution in its fairest vigor. To promote cleanliness, I -can recommend nothing preferable to bathing. - -The frequent use of tepid baths is not more grateful to the sense than -it is salutary to the health, and to beauty. By such ablution, all -accidental corporeal impurities are thrown off; cutaneous obstructions -removed; and while the surface of the body is preserved in its original -brightness, many threatening disorders are removed or prevented. Colds -in the young, and rheumatic and paralytic affections in the old, are -all dispersed by this simple and delightful antidote. By such means the -women of the East render their skins softer than that of the tenderest -babes in this climate, and preserve that health which sedentary -confinement would otherwise destroy. - -This delightful and delicate Oriental fashion is now, I am happy to -say, prevalent almost all over the continent. From the Villas of Italy, -to the Chateaux of France; from the Castles of Germany, to the Palaces -of Muscovy; we may everywhere find the marble bath under the vaulted -portico or the sheltering shade. Every house of every nobleman or -gentleman, in every nation under the sun, excepting Britain, possesses -one of those genial friends to cleanliness and comfort. The generality -of English ladies seem to be ignorant of the use of any bath larger -than a wash-hand basin. This is the more extraordinary to me, when I -contemplate the changeable temperature of the climate, and consider -the corresponding alterations in the bodily feelings of the people. -By abruptly checking the secretions, it produces those chronic and -cutaneous diseases so peculiar to our nation, and so heavy a cause of -complaint. - -This very circumstance renders baths more necessary in England than -anywhere else; for as this is the climate most subject to sudden heats -and colds, rains and fogs, tepid immersion is the only sovereign remedy -against their usual morbific effects. Indeed, so impressed am I with -the consequence of their regimen, that I strongly recommend to every -lady to make a bath as indispensable an article in her house as a -looking-glass: - - “This is the purest exercise of health, - The kind refresher of the summer heats; - Even from the body’s purity, the mind - Receives a secret sympathetic aid.” - -It may be remarked, _en passant_, that rubbing of the skin in the bath -is an excellent substitute for _exercise_, when that is impracticable -out-of-doors. - -I must not draw this chapter to a close without offering my fair -readers a few remarks on the malignant influence exercised on the -features by an ill-regulated temper. The face is the index of the mind. -On its expressive page are recorded in characters lasting as life -itself, the gloom of sullenness, the arrogance of pride, the withering -of envy, or the storm of anger; for, even after the fury of the tempest -has subsided, its fearful devastations remain behind. - - “From anger she may then be freed, - But peevishness and spleen succeed.” - -The first emotions of anger are apparent to the most superficial -observer. Every indulgence in its paroxysms, both adds strength to its -authority, and engraves its history in deeper relief on the forehead -of its votaries. What a pity it is that antiquity provides us with -no authentic portrait of the illustrious Xantippe! for I am sure the -features of that lady would lend their ready testimony to the value of -my admonitions. - -When good-humor and vivacity reign within, the face is lighted up with -benignant smiles; where peace and gentleness are the tenants of the -bosom, the countenance beams with mildness and complacency. Evil temper -has, with truth, been called a more terrible enemy to beauty than the -small-pox. I beseech you, therefore, as you value the preservation of -your charms, to resist the dominion of this rude despoiler, to foster -and encourage the feelings of kindliness and good-humor, and to repress -every emotion of a contrary character. - -I shall conclude this important subject by remarking with the -Spectator, that “no woman can be handsome by the force of features -alone, any more than she can be witty only by the gift of speech.” - - - - -THE SAME SUBJECT, OF FEMALE BEAUTY, MORE EXPLICITLY CONSIDERED. - - “Let Art no useless ornament display, - But just explain what Nature meant to say.” - - YOUNG. - - -So far, my friends, I have thrown together my sentiments on the -aggregate of the female form: I shall now descend to particulars, and -leave it to your judgments to adopt my suggestions according to the -correspondence with your different characters. - -The preservation of an agreeable complexion (which always presupposes -health) is not the most insignificant of exterior charms. Though we -yield due admiration to regularity of features, (the Grecian contour -being usually so called,) yet when we consider them merely in the -outline, our pleasure can go no further than that of a cold critic, -who regards the finely proportioned lineaments of life as he would -those of a statue. It is complexion that lends animation to a picture; -it is complexion that gives spirit to the human countenance. Even the -language of the eyes loses half its eloquence, if they speak from the -obscurity of an inexpressive skin. The life-blood in the mantling -cheek; the ever-varying hues of nature glowing in the face, “as if her -very body thought;” these are alike the ensigns of beauty and the -heralds of the mind; and the effect is, an impression of loveliness, an -attraction, which fills the beholder with answering animation and the -liveliest delight. - - “’Tis not a lip or eye we beauty call, - But the joint force and full result of all.” - -As a Juno-featured maid with a dull skin, by most people, will only be -coldly pronounced _critically_ handsome; so a young woman with very -indifferent features, but a fine complexion, will, from ten persons out -of twelve, receive spontaneous and warm admiration. - -The experience (when once we admit the proposition that it is _right_ -to keep the casket bright which contains so precious a gem as the soul) -must induce us to take precautions against the injuries continually -threatening the tender surface of the skin. It may be next to an -impossibility, to change the color of an eye, to alter the form of -the nose, or the turn of the mouth; but though Heaven has given us a -complexion which vies with the flowers of the field, we yet have it in -our power to render it dingy by neglect, coarse through intemperance, -and sallow by dissipation. - -Such excesses must therefore be avoided; for, though there may be a -something in the pallid cheek which excites interest, yet, without a -certain appearance of health, there can never be an impression of -loveliness. A fine, clear skin, gives an assurance of the inherent -residence of three admirable graces to beauty; Wholesomeness, Neatness, -and Cheerfulness. Every fair means ought to be sought to maintain these -vouchers, for not only health of body, but health of mind. - -I have already given some hints to this purpose; at least as far as -relates to the purity of the alimentary springs of sublunary life: -those which are in the heart, and point through time into eternity, -must not be less observed; for, unless its thoughts are kept in -corresponding order and the passions held in peace, all prescriptions -will be vain to keep those boiling fluids in check, which, in spite of -Roman fard and balm of Mecca, will spread themselves over the skin, -and there show an outward and visible sign of the malignant spirit -within. Independent of these intellectual causes of corporeal defects, -disorders of the skin, arising from accidental circumstances, are more -frequent in this country than in any other; and the fashions of the -day are still more inimical to the complexion of its inhabitants, than -the climate. The frequent and sudden changes from heat to cold, by -abruptly exciting or repressing the regular secretions of the skin, -roughen its texture, injure its hue, and often deform it with unseemly, -though transitory, eruptions. All this is increased by the habit ladies -have of exposing themselves unveiled, and frequently without bonnets, -in the open air. The head and face have then no defence against the -attacks of the surrounding atmosphere, and the effects are obvious. -The barouche, for this reason, and the more consequential one of -subjecting its inmates to dangerous chills, is a fatal addition to the -variety of English equipages. Our autumnal evenings, with this carriage -and our gossamer apparel, have already sent many of my young female -acquaintance to untimely graves. - -To remedy these evils, I would strenuously recommend, for health’s -sake, as well as for beauty, that no lady should make one in any -riding, airing, or walking party, without putting on her head something -capable of affording both shelter and warmth. Shakspeare, the poet -of the finest taste in female charms, makes Viola regret having been -obliged to “throw her sun-expelling mask away!” Such a defence I do not -pretend to recommend; but I consider a veil a useful as well as elegant -part of dress; it can be worn to suit any situation; open or close, -just as the heat or cold may render it necessary. - -The custom which some ladies have, when warm, of powdering their faces, -washing them with cold water, or throwing off their bonnets, that they -may cool the faster, are all very destructive habits. Each of them is -sufficient (when it meets with any predisposition in the blood) to -spread a surfeit over the skin, and make a once beautiful face hideous -forever. - -The person, when overheated, should always be allowed to cool -gradually, and of itself, without any more violent assistant than, -perhaps, the gentle undulation of the neighboring air by a fan. -Streams of wind from opened doors and windows, or what is called -_a thorough air_, are all bad and highly dangerous applications. -These impatient remedies for heat are often resorted to in balls and -crowded assemblies; and as frequently as they are used, we hear of -sore throats, coughs, and fevers. While it is the fashion to fill a -drawing-room like a theatre, similar means ought to be adopted, to -prevent the ill effects of the consequent corrupted atmosphere, and the -temptation to seek relief by dangerous resources. Instead of the open -balcony, and yawning door, we should see ventilators in every window; -and thus feel a constant succession of pure and temperate air. - -Excessive heat, as well as excessive cold, is apt to cause distempers -of the skin; and as the fine lady, by her strange habits, is as prone -to such changes as the desert-wandering gipsy, it is requisite that she -should be particularly careful to correct the deforming consequences of -her fashionable exposures. For her usual ablution, night and morning, -nothing is so fine an emollient for any rigidity or disease of the -face as a wash of French or white brandy, and rose-water; the spirit -making only one-third of the mixture. The brandy keeps up that gentle -action of the skin which is necessary to the healthy appearance of -its parts. It also cleanses the surface. The rose-water corrects the -drying property of the spirit, leaving the skin in a natural, soft, and -flexible state. Where white or French brandy cannot be obtained, half -the quantity of spirits of wine will tolerably supply its place. - -The eloquent effect of complexion will, I hope, my fair friends, obtain -your pardon for my having confined your attention so long to what is -generally thought (though in contradiction to what is felt) a trifling -feature, if so I may be allowed to name it. - -I am aware of your expectations, that I would give the precedence, -in this dissertation, to the eye. I subscribe to its supereminent -dignity; for none can deny that it is regarded by all nations as the -faithful interpreter of the mind, as the window of the soul, the index -in which we read each varied emotion of the heart; it is, indeed, the -“spirit’s throne of light.” But how increased an expression does this -intelligent feature convey, when aided by the glowing tints of an -eloquent complexion! Indeed, it is the happy coincidence of the eye and -the complexion which forms the strongest point of what the French call -_contenance_. - -The animated changes of sensibility are nowhere more apparent than in -the transparent surface of a clear skin. Who has not perceived, and -admired, the rising blush of modesty enrich the cheek of a lovely girl, -and, in the sweet effusion, most gratefully discern the true witness -of the purity within? Who has not been sensible to the sudden glow on -the face, which announces, ere the lips open, or the eye sparkles, the -approach of some beloved object? Nay, will not even the sound of his -name paint the blooming cheek with deeper roses? - - “Who hath not owned, with rapture-smitten frame, - The power of grace, the magic of a name?” - -Shall we reverse the picture? I have shown how the soul proclaims her -joy through its wondrous medium; shall she speak her sorrows too? Then -let us call to mind, who have beheld the deadly paleness of her who -learns the unexpected destruction of her dearest possessions! Perhaps -a husband, a lover, or a brother, mingled with the slain, or fallen, -untimely, by some dreadful accident. Sudden partings like these - - “Press the life from out young hearts.” - -We see the darkened, stagnant shade which denotes the despair-stricken -soul. We behold the livid hues of approaching frenzy, or the blacker -stain of settled melancholy! Heloisa’s face is paler than the marble -she kneels upon. In all cases the mind shines through the body; and -according as the medium is dense or transparent, so the light within -seems dull or clear. - -Advocate as I am for a fine complexion, you must perceive, that it is -for the _real_, and not the _spurious_. The foundation of my argument, -_the skin’s power of expression_, would be entirely lost, were I to -tolerate that fictitious, that dead beauty, which is composed of white -paints and enamelling. In the first place, as all applications of -this kind are as a mask on the skin, they can never, but at a distant -glance, impose for a moment on a discerning eye. But why should I say -a _discerning eye_? No eye that is of the commonest apprehension can -look on a face bedaubed with white paint, pearl powder, or enamel, and -be deceived for a minute into a belief that so inanimate a “whited -wall” is the human skin. No flush of pleasure, no shudder of pain, -no thrilling of hope, can be descried beneath the encrusted mould; -all that passes within is concealed behind the mummy surface. Perhaps -the painted creature may be admired by an artist as a well-executed -picture; but no man will seriously consider her as a handsome woman. - -White painting is, therefore, an ineffectual, as well as dangerous -practice. The proposed end is not obtained; and, as poison lurks under -every layer, the constitution wanes in alarming proportion as the -supposed charms increase. - -What is said against white paint, does not oppose, with the same -force, the use of red. Merely rouging leaves three parts of the face, -and the whole of the neck and arms, to their natural hues. Hence, the -language of the heart, expressed by the general complexion, is not yet -entirely obstructed. Besides, while _all_ white paints are ruinous to -health, (occasioning paralytic affections, and premature death,) there -are some red paints which may be used with perfect safety. - -A little vegetable rouge tinging the cheek of a delicate woman, who, -from ill health or an anxious mind, loses her roses, may be excusable; -and so transparent is the texture of such rouge, (when unadulterated -with lead,) that when the blood does mount to the face, it speaks -through the slight covering, and enhances the fading bloom. But, though -the occasional use of rouge may be tolerated, yet my fair friends must -understand that it is only _tolerated_. Good sense must so preside over -its application, that its tint on the cheek may always be fainter than -that nature’s pallet would have painted. A violent rouged woman is one -of the most disgusting objects to the eye. The excessive red on the -face gives a coarseness to every feature, and a general fierceness to -the countenance, which transforms the elegant lady of fashion into a -vulgar harridan. - -While I recommend that the rouge we sparingly permit, should be laid on -with delicacy, my readers must not suppose that I intend such advice -as a means of making the art a deception. It seems to me so slight -and so innocent an apparel of the face, (a kind of decent veil thrown -over the cheek, rendered too eloquent of grief by the pallidness of -secret sorrow,) that I cannot see any shame in the most ingenuous -female acknowledging that she occasionally rouges. It is often, like a -cheerful smile on the face of an invalid, put on to give comfort to an -anxious friend. - -That our applications to this restorer of our usual looks should not -feed, like a worm, on the bud it affects to brighten, no rouge must -ever be admitted that is impregnated with even the smallest particle -of ceruse. It is the lead which is the poison of white paint; and its -mixture with the red would render that equally noxious. - -There are various ways of putting on rouge. Frenchwomen in general, and -those who imitate them, daub it on from the bottom of the side of the -face up to the very eye, even till it meets the lower eye-lash, and -creeps all over the temples. This is a hideous practice. It is obvious -that it must produce deformity instead of beauty, and, as I said -before, would metamorphose the gentlest-looking fair Hebe into a fierce -Medusa. - -For brunettes, a slight touch of simple carmine on the cheek, in its -dry powder state, is amply sufficient. Taste will teach the hand to -soften the color by due degrees, till it almost imperceptibly blends -with the natural hue of the skin. For fairer complexions, letting down -the vivid red of the carmine with a mixture of fine hair powder, till -it suits the general appearance of the skin, will have the desired -effect. - -The article of rouge, on the grounds I have mentioned, is the only -species of positive art a woman of integrity or of delicacy can permit -herself to use with her face. Her motives for imitating the bloom of -health, may be of the most honorable nature, and she can with candor -avow them. On the reverse, nothing but selfish vanity, and falsehood of -mind, could prevail on a woman to enamel her skin with white paints, to -lacker her lips with vermilion, to draw the meandering vein through the -fictitious alabaster with as fictitious a dye. - -Penciling eye-brows, staining them, &c., are too clumsy tricks of -attempted deception, for any other emotion to be excited in the mind -of the beholder, than contempt for the bad taste and wilful blindness -which could ever deem them passable for a moment. There is a lovely -harmony in nature’s tints, which we seldom attain by our added -chromatics. The exquisitely fair complexion is generally accompanied -with blue eyes, light hair, and light eye-brows and lashes. So far -all is right. The delicacy of one feature is preserved in effect and -beauty by the corresponding softness of the other. A young creature, -so formed, appears to the eye of taste like the azure heavens, seen -through the fleecy clouds on which the brightness of day delights to -dwell. But take this fair image of the celestial regions, draw a black -line over her softly-tinctured eyes, stain their beamy fringes with a -sombre hue, and what do you produce? Certainly a fair face with _dark_ -eye-brows! But that feature, which is an embellishment to a brunette, -when seen on the forehead of the fair beauty, becomes, if not an -absolute deformity, so great a drawback from her perfections, that the -harmony is gone; and, as a proof, a painter would immediately turn from -the change with disgust. - -Nature, in almost every case, is our best guide. Hence the native -color of our own hair is, in general, better adapted to our own -complexions than a wig of a contrary hue. A thing may be beautiful in -itself, which, with certain combinations, may be rendered hideous. For -instance, a golden-tressed wig on the head of a brown woman, makes -both ridiculous. By the same rule, all fantastic tricks played with -the mouth or eyes, or motions of the head, are absurd, and ruinous to -beauty. They are solecisms in the works of nature. - -In Turkey, it happened to be the taste of one of its great monarchs, -to esteem large and dark-lashed eyes as the most lovely. From that -time, all the fair slaves of that voluptuous region, when nature has -not bestowed “the wild-stag eye in sable ringlets rolling,” supply the -deficiency with circles of antimony; and so, instead of a real charm, -they impart a strange artificial ghastliness to their appearance. - -Our countrywomen, in like manner, when a celebrated _belle_ came under -the pencil of Sir Peter Lely, who exhibited to her emulative rivals -the sweet peculiarities of her long and languishing eye, they must -needs all have the same; and not a lady could appear in public, be her -visual orbs large or small, bright or dull, but she must affect the -soft sleepiness, the tender and slowly-moving roll of her subduing -exemplar. But though Sir Peter’s gallant pencil deigned to compliment -his numerous sitters by drowning their strained aspects after the model -of the peerless _belle_, yet, in place of the nature-stamped look of -modest languishment, he could not but often recognize the disgraceful -leer and hideous squint. Let every woman be content to leave her eyes -as she found them, and to make that use of them which was their design. -They were intended to see with, and artlessly express the feelings of -a chaste and benevolent heart. Let them speak this unsophisticated -language, and beauty will beam from the orb which affectation would -have rendered odious. - -Analogy of reasoning will bring forward similar remarks with regard to -the movements of the mouth, which many ladies use, not to speak with or -to admit food, but to show dimples and display white teeth. Wherever -a desire for exhibition is discovered, a disposition to disapprove -and ridicule arises in the spectator. The pretensions of the vain are -a sort of assumption over others, which arms the whole world against -them. But, after all, “What are the honors of a painted skin?” I hope -it will be distinctly understood by my fair friends, that I do not, by -any means, give a general license to painting; on the contrary, that -even rouge should only be resorted to in cases of absolute necessity. - - - - -GENERAL THOUGHTS ON DRESS AND PERSONAL DECORATION. - - “Costly your habit as your purse can buy, - But not expressed in fancy; rich, not gaudy, - For the apparel oft proclaims the woman.” - - SHAKSPEARE. - - -Every person of just observation, who looks back on the fashions of our -immediate ancestors, and compares their style of dress with that of the -present times, will not hesitate to acknowledge the evident improvement -in ease and gracefulness. When I say this, I mean to eulogize the taste -which yet prevails with persons of real judgment, to maintain the _ease -and gracefulness_ of our assumed Grecian mode, against a new race of -stay-makers, corset-inventors, &c., who have just armed themselves with -whalebone, steel, and buckram, to the utter destruction of all the -naturally-elegant shapes which fall into their hands. - -Just before this attempted counter-revolution in the world of fashion, -we found that our _belles_ had gradually exploded the stiffness and -formality which distinguished the brocaded dame of 1700, from the -lawn-robed fair of the nineteenth century. In former ages it seemed -requisite that every lady should cut out her garments by a certain -erected standard. All seemed in a livery. One mode for gown, cap, -and hat prevailed; and though the materials might be more costly in -one than another, the outline was the same; and thus peculiar taste -and fine form were lost, in the general prescription of one reigning -costume. - -But in our days, an Englishwoman has the extensive privilege of -arraying herself in whatever garb may best suit her figure or her -fancy. The fashions of every nation and of every era are open to her -choice. One day she may appear as the Egyptian Cleopatra, then a -Grecian Helen; next morning, the Roman Cornelia; or, if these styles be -too august for her taste, there are sylphs, goddesses, nymphs of every -region, in earth or air, ready to lend her their wardrobe. In short, no -land or age is permitted to withhold its costume from the adoption of -an Englishwoman of fashion. - - “Unnumbered treasures ope at once, and here - The various offsprings of the world appear; - This casket India’s glowing gems unlocks, - And all Arabia breathes from yonder box.” - -With such a variety to choose from, she has no excuse, if she unite -not the excellences of them all. It was so that the sculptor of Paphos -formed the “beauteous statue that enchanted the world.” And in like -manner female taste accomplishes its object. A judicious dresser will -select from each mode that which is most distinguishable for utility -and grace, and, combining, adopt them to advantage. This is the art -which every woman who casts a thought on these subjects, ought to -endeavor to attain. - -Elegant dressing is not found in expense; money without judgment may -load, but never can adorn. You may show profusion without grace: You -may cover a neck with pearls, a head with jewels, hands and arms with -rings, bracelets, and trinkets, and yet produce no effect, but having -emptied some merchant’s counter upon your person. The best chosen dress -is that which so harmonizes with the figure as to make the raiment -pass unobserved. The result of the finest toilet should be an _elegant -woman_, not an elegantly dressed woman. Where a perfect whole is -intended, it is a sign of defect in the execution, when the details -first present themselves to observation. - -In short, the secret of dressing lies in simplicity, and a certain -adaptation to your figure, your rank, your circumstances. To dress -well on these principles--and they are the only just ones--does not -require that extravagant attention to so trivial an object, as is -usually exhibited by persons who make the toilet a study. When ladies -place the spell of their attraction in their clothes, we generally -see them arrayed in robes of a thousand makes and dyes, and curiously -constructed of materials brought from, Heaven knows where. Thus, much -time, thought, and wealth, are wasted on a comparatively worthless -object. To lavish many of the precious hours of life in the invention -and arrangement of dress, is as criminal an offence as to exhaust the -finances of your husband or parents by a thriftless expenditure on its -component parts. - -The taste I wish to inculcate, is that nicely-poised estimation of -things, which shows it “worth our while to do _well_, what it is ever -worth our while _to do_.” This disposition originates in a correct and -delicate mind, and forms a judgment which makes elegance inseparable -from propriety; and extending itself from great objects to small, -reaches the most apparently insignificant; and thus, even in the change -of the morning and evening attire, displays to the considerate observer -a very intelligible index of the wearer’s well-regulated mind. - -“Show me a lady’s dressing-room,” says a certain writer, “and I will -tell you what manner of woman she is.” Chesterfield, also, is of -opinion, that a sympathy goes through every action of our lives: he -declares, that he could not help conceiving some idea of people’s sense -and character from the dress in which they appeared when introduced -to him. He was so great an advocate for pleasing externals, that he -often said, he would rather see a young person too much than too -little dressed, excess, on the fopish side, wearing off with time and -reflection; but if a youth be negligent at twenty, it is probable he -will be a sloven at forty, and disgustingly dirty at fifty. However -this may be with the other sex, I beg leave to observe, that I never -yet met with a woman whose general style of dress was chaste, elegant, -and appropriate, that I did not find, on further acquaintance, to be, -in disposition and mind, an object to admire and love. - -This correspondence between the thoughts and the raiment being -established, what was before insignificant becomes of consequence; -and, being rightly understood, good sense will be as careful not to -disparage her discretion, by extravagant dress, as she would to evince -a sordid mind, by dirt and rags. - -I think I see you, my friends, smile, incredulous, at the last -sentence. What gentlewoman, you exclaim, who is above the most abject -pecuniary embarrassments, can ever have chance of being so apparelled? -A desire of singularity is a sufficient answer. There is a race of -women, who, priding themselves on their superior rank, or wealth, or -talents, affect to despise what they deem the adventitious aids of -dress. Their appearance, in consequence, is frequently as ridiculous -as disgusting. When this folly is seen in female authors, or what -is much the same thing, ladies professing a particularly literary -taste, we can at once trace its motives,--a conceited negligence of -outward attractions, and a determination to raise themselves in the -opinions of men, by displaying a contempt for what they deem the vain -occupations of meaner souls. Wishing to be thought superior to founding -any regard on external ornament, they forget external decency; and by -slatternliness and affectation, render what is called a learned woman, -a kind of scare-crow to her own sex, and a laughing-stock to the other. -This error is not so common now with bookish ladies as it was in the -beginning of the last century. Then our sex did, indeed, show that “a -little learning is a dangerous thing.” They did not imbibe sufficient -to imbue them with a sense of its real properties, to show them causes -and effects, to make them understand themselves, and close the book in -humility. They, poor short-sighted creatures! exchanged the innocent -ignorance of Eve for the empoisoned apple, which, under the cheat of -displaying knowledge, fills the eater with a vain self-conceit, while -it more openly exposes her mental nakedness to every eye. - -The absurdity of their deductions is so obvious, that one wonders how -any woman could fall into such an error. Who among them but would think -it the height of folly to place over the door of a museum, to which -the proprietor wished to attract visitors, the effigy of a monster, so -disgusting as to deter men from entering to see what might otherwise -have afforded them much pleasure? Such effigies might the slip-shod -muses of the days of Anne have given of themselves; but most of the -modern female votaries of Minerva, aware of the advantages of a -prepossessing appearance, mingle with their incense to the Goddess a -few flowers to the Paphian Graces; and, that they gain by the devotion, -none who have been admitted to the acquaintance of our British Sapphos -and Corinnas, can deny. - -There is another class of persons, who neglect their exterior on -account of the consequence they derive from their rank; but instances -on such a plea are few, in comparison with the insolent slovenliness of -the opposite sex, when, springing from the lower degrees in society, -they amass or acquire large fortunes. They aim at notoriety; and common -means, such as expense and show, not raising them into an _eclat_ -beyond their equally rich contemporaries, ambition leads them to seek -notice by the assumption of a garb of almost pauper negligence. I -remember, some years since, when on a visit at a large seaport town -in the north of England, to have been attracted by seeing at the door -of a handsome house in one of the principal streets an elegant modern -chariot. I stopped, and, to my surprise, saw step into it an old man -of the meanest and most dirty appearance. A few days afterwards, while -viewing the docks with a gentleman who was an inhabitant of the place, -I observed the same wretched-looking person conversing familiarly -with a man of the first consequence in the town. I inquired of my -friend the name and business of the shabby old fellow, and received -the following brief answer. He had been taken, when a boy, from very -indigent parents residing in a northern village; and, being a smart -lad, was employed in the drudgery of a banking-house belonging to his -benefactors. By assiduous application, and a deep cunning, aided by -what is vulgarly called _good luck_, he gradually advanced himself to -be one of the firm. Of course, his fortune then rose with the house, -and his wealth, at the time I saw him, was computed at upwards of a -hundred thousand pounds. Yet I am sure that an old-clothesman would not -have given half-a-crown for the whole of the apparel (or rather rags) -upon his back. - -Now, as it is too often the custom with people, in forming an opinion, -seldom to go beyond the surface, this modern AVARO was, by many, termed -_a man without pride_! Few gave a guess at the real motive of all this -studied negligence; but those who investigate the human character, -and trace actions to the secret springs of the heart, saw, in this -inattention to personal decency, the very acmé of personal pride. I -shall prove my position by repeating the usual reply of this old man, -when any of his acquaintance ventured to inquire why he wore such -tattered garments. “Why,” he would answer, “were I to dress as smart as -other people, no one would know T. W. from another man.” - -Men may fall into this mistaken road to distinction, but women who have -suddenly become wealthy seldom do. A passion for dress is so common -with the sex, that it ought not to be very surprising, when opulence, -vanity, and bad taste meet, that we should find extravagance and tawdry -profusion the fruits of the union. And it would be well if a humor for -expensive dress were always confined to the fortunate daughters of -Plutus; but we too often find this ruinous spirit in women of slender -means, and then, what ought to be one of the embellishments of life -is turned into a splendid mischief. Alas! my friends, it must come -under your own observations, that often does the foolish virgin, or -infatuated matron, sell her peace or honor for a ring or a scarf! - -A woman of principle and prudence must be consistent in the style and -quality of her attire; she must be careful that her expenditure does -not exceed the limits of her allowance; she must be aware, that it -is not the girl who lavishes the most money on her apparel that is -the best arrayed. Frequent instances have I known, where young women, -with a little good taste, ingenuity, and economy, have maintained -a much better appearance than ladies of three times their fortune. -No treasury is large enough to supply indiscriminate profusion; and -scarcely any purse is too scanty for the uses of life, when managed -by a careful hand. Few are the situations in which a woman can be -placed, whether she be married or single, where some attention to -thrift is not expected. High rank requires adequate means to support -its consequence--ostentatious wealth, a superabundance to maintain -its domineering pretensions; and the middle class, when virtue is its -companion, looks to economy to allow it to throw its mite into the lap -of charity. - -Hence we see, that hardly any woman, however related, can have a right -to independent, uncontrolled expenditure; and that, to do her duty in -every sense of the word, she must learn to understand and exercise the -graces of economy. This quality will be a gem in her husband’s eyes; -for, though most of the money-getting sex like to see their wives well -dressed, yet, trust me, my fair friends, they would rather owe that -pleasure to your taste than to their pockets! - -Costliness being, then, no essential principle in real elegance, I -shall proceed to give you a few hints on what are the distinguishing -circumstances of a well-ordered toilet. - -As the beauty of form and complexion is different in different women, -and is still more varied, according to the ages of the fair subjects of -investigation; so the styles in dress, while simplicity is the soul of -all, must assume a character corresponding with the wearer. - -The seasons of life should be arrayed like those of the year. In -the spring of youth, when all is lovely and gay, then, as the soft -green, sparkling in freshness, bedecks the earth; so, light and -transparent robes, of tender colors, should adorn the limbs of the -young beauty. If she be of the Hebe form, warm weather should find her -veiled in fine muslin, lawn, gauzes, and other lucid materials. To -suit the character of her figure, and to accord with the prevailing -mode and just taste together, her morning robes should be of a length -sufficiently circumscribed as not to impede her walking; but on no -account must they be too short; for, when any design is betrayed of -showing the foot or ankle, the idea of beauty is lost in that of the -wearer’s odious indelicacy. On the reverse, when no show of vanity is -apparent in the dress--when the lightly-flowing drapery, by unsought -accident, discovers the pretty buskined foot or taper ankle, a sense of -virgin timidity, and of exquisite loveliness together, strikes upon the -senses; and Admiration, with a tender sigh, softly whispers, “The most -resistless charm is modesty!” - -In Thomson’s exquisite portrait of Lavinia, the prominent feature is -modesty. “She was beauty’s self,” indeed, but-then she was “thoughtless -of beauty;” and though her eyes were sparkling, “bashful modesty” -directed them - - “Still on the ground dejected, darting all - Their humid beams into the blooming flowers.” - -The morning robe should cover the arms and the bosom, nay even the -neck. And if it be made tight to the shape, every symmetrical line is -discovered with a grace so decent, that vestals, without a blush, might -adopt the chaste apparel. This simple garb leaves to beauty all her -empire; no furbelows, no heavy ornaments, load the figure, warp the -outlines, and distract the attention. All is light, easy, and elegant; -and the lovely wearer, “with her glossy ringlets loosely bound,” moves -with the Zephyrs on the airy wing of youth and innocence. - -Her summer evening dress may be of a still more gossamer texture; -but it must still preserve the same simplicity, though its -gracefully-diverging folds may fall like the mantle of Juno, in -clustering drapery about her steps. There they should meet the white -slipper - - “--of the fairy foot, - Which shines like snow, and falls on earth as mute.” - -In this dress, her arms, and part of her neck and bosom may be -unveiled; but only _part_. The eye of maternal decorum should draw the -virgin zone to the limit where modesty would bid it rest. - -Where beauty is, ornaments are unnecessary; and where it is not, they -are unavailing. But as gems and flowers are handsome in themselves, and -when tastefully disposed doubly so, a beautiful young woman, if she -chooses to share her empire with the jeweller and the florist, may, -not inelegantly, decorate her neck, arms, and head, with a string of -pearls, and a band of flowers. - -Female youth, of airy forms and fair complexions, ought to reject, as -too heavy for their style of figure, the use of gems. Their ornaments -should hardly ever exceed the natural or imitated flowers of the -most delicate tribes. The snow-drop, lily of the valley, violet, -primrose, myrtle, Provence rose,--these and their resemblances, are -embellishments which harmonize with their gaiety and blooming years. -The colors of their garments, when not white, should be the most tender -shades of green, yellow, pink, blue, and lilac. These when judiciously -selected, or mingled, array the graceful wearer, like another Iris, -breathing youth and loveliness. - -Should a young woman, of majestic character, inquire for appropriate -apparel, she will find it to correspond with her graver and more -dignified mien. Her robes should always be long and flowing, and more -ample in their folds than those of her gayer sister. Their substance -should also be thicker, and of a soberer color. White is becoming to -all characters, and not less so to Juno than to Venus; but when colors -are to be worn, I recommend to the lady of majestic deportment, to -choose the fuller shades of yellow, purple, crimson, scarlet, black, -and gray. The materials of her dress in summer, cambrics, muslins, -sarcenets; in winter, satins, velvets, broadcloth, &c. Her ornaments -should be embroidery of gold, silver, and precious stones, with fillets -and diadems of jewels, and waving plumes. - -The materials for the winter dresses of majestic forms, and -lightly-graceful ones, may be of nearly similar texture, only -differing, when made up, in amplitude and abundance of drapery. Satin, -Genoa velvet, Indian silks, and kerseymere, may all be fashioned -into as becoming an apparel for the slender figure as for the more -_embonpoint_; and the warmth they afford is highly needful to preserve -health during the cold and damps of winter. When it is so universally -acknowledged, the indispensable necessity of keeping the body in a just -temperature between heat and cold, I cannot but be astonished at the -little attention that is paid to so momentous a subject by the people -of this climate. I wonder that a sense of personal comfort, aided by -the well-founded conviction that health is the only preservative of -beauty, and lengthener of youth, that it does not impel women to prefer -utility before the absurd whims of an unreasonable fashion. - -To wear gossamer dresses, with bare necks and naked arms, in a hard -frost, has been the mode in this country, and unless a principle is -made against it, may be so again, to the utter wretchedness of them, -who, so arraying their youth, lay themselves open to the untimely -ravages of rheumatisms, palsies, consumptions, and death. - -While fine taste, as well as fashion, decrees that the beautiful -outline of a well-proportioned form shall be seen in the contour of -a nicely-adapted dress, the divisions of that dress must be few and -simple. But, though the hoop and quilted petticoat are no longer -suffered to shroud in hideous obscurity one of the loveliest works in -nature, yet all intermediate covering is not to be banished. Modesty, -on one hand, and Health, on the other, still maintain the law of “fold -on fold.” - -Some of our fair dames appear, summer and winter, with no other shelter -from sun or frost, than one single garment of muslin or silk over their -chemise--_if they wear one!_ but that is often dubious. The indelicacy -of this mode need not be pointed out; and yet, O shame! it is most -generally followed. However, common as the crime is, (for who will say -that it is not a sin against modesty?) it is quickly visited with its -punishment. It loses its aim, if it hopes to attract the admiration of -manly worth. No eye but that of a libertine can look upon so wanton a -figure with any other sensations than those of disgust and contempt: -and the end of all her arts being lost, the certainty of an early old -age, chronic pains, and deeply-furrowed wrinkles, is thus incurred in -vain. - -No woman, even in the warmest flush of youth, ought to be prodigal of -her charms; she should not “unmask her beauties to the moon;” or unduly -expose the vital fluid, which animates her frame with life and joy. A -momentary blast from the east may pierce her filmy robes, wither her -bloom, and lay her low. - -The _Chemise_ (now too frequently banished) ought to be held as sacred -by the modest fair as the vestal veil. No fashion should be able to -strip her of that decent covering; in short, woman should consider it -as the sign of her delicacy, as the pledge of honor to shelter her from -the gaze of unhallowed eyes. - -This indispensable vesture being once more appropriated to its ancient -use, we shall next speak of the stays, or _corsets_. They must be light -and flexible, yielding to the shape, while they support it. In warm -weather, my fair reader should wear under her gown and slip a light -cotton petticoat; these few habiliments are sufficient to impart the -softening line of modesty to the defined outline of the form. Health, -also, is preserved by their opposing the immediate influence of the -atmosphere; and none will deny, that enough of female charms are thus -displayed, to gratify the quick, discerning eye of taste. - -During the chilling airs of spring and autumn, the cotton petticoat -should give place to fine flannel; and in the rigid season of winter, -another addition must be made, by rendering the outer garments warmer -in their original texture: for instance, substituting satins, velvets, -and rich stuffs, for the lighter materials of summer. And besides -these, the use of fur is not only a salutary, but a magnificent and -graceful appendage to dress. - -Having laid it down as a general principle, that the fashion of the -raiment must correspond with that of the figure, and that every sort -of woman will not look equally well in the same style of apparel, it -will not be difficult to make you understand, that a handsome person -may make a freer use of fancy in her ornaments than an ordinary one. -Beauty gives effect to all things; it is the universal embellisher, -the setting which makes common crystal shine as diamonds. In short, -fashion does not adorn beauty, but beauty fashion. Hence, I must warn -Delia, that if she be not cast in so perfect a mould as Celia, she -must not flatter herself that she can supply the deficiency by gayer -or more sumptuous attire. Whims in dress may possibly pass with her, -who, “in Parsian mode, or Indian guise, is still the fairest fair!” -But caprices of this sort, in a plain woman, only render her defects -more conspicuous; and she, who might have been regarded as a very -pleasing girl, in an unobtrusive robe of simple elegance, is ridiculed -and despised when descried in the inappropriate plumage of fancy and -decoration. - -Many men, while listening to the conversation of an ordinary, but -sensible young woman, would never see that her hair was harsh, and of -a bad color, were it not interwoven with a wreath of roses. They would -not perceive the brownness and want of symmetry in her bosom, did not -the sparkling necklace attract their eye to the spot. Neither would -it strike them that her hands were coarse and red, did not the pearl -bracelets and circles of rings tell them that she meant they should vie -with Celia’s rose-tipped fingers. - -As I recommend a restrained and quiet mode of dress to plain women, -so, in gradation as the lovely of my sex advance towards the vale of -years, I counsel them to assume a graver habit and a less vivacious -air. Cheerfulness is becoming to all times of life, but sportiveness -belongs to youth alone; and when the meridian or the decline of our -days affects it, is ever heavy and out of place. - -Let me show you, my fair friends, by conducting you into the Pantheon -of ancient Rome, the images of yourselves at the different stages of -your lives. First, behold that lovely Hebe; her robes are like the -air, her motion is on the zephyr’s wing: that you may be till you are -twenty. Then comes the beautiful Diana. The chaste dignity of the pure -intelligence within pervades the whole form, and the very drapery which -enfolds it harmonizes with the modest elegance, the buoyant health, -which gives elasticity and grace to every limb: here, then, you see -yourselves from twenty to thirty. At that majestic age, when the woman -of mind looks round upon the world; back on the events which have past, -and calmly forward to those which may be to come; all within ought -to be settled on the firm basis of religion and sound judgment; and -either as a Juno or a Minerva she stands forth in the power of beauty -and of wisdom. At this period she lays aside the flowers of youth, and -arrays herself in the majesty of sobriety, or in the grandeur of simple -magnificence. - -Contradictory as the two last terms may at first appear, they are -consistent; and a glance on the works of Phidias, and of his best -imitators, will sufficiently prove their beautiful union. Long is the -reign of this commanding epoch of a woman’s age; for from thirty to -fifty she may most respectably maintain her station on this throne -of matron excellence. But at that period, when she has numbered half -a century, then it becomes her to throw aside “the wimple and the -crisping-iron, the ornament of silver, and the ornament of gold,” and -gracefully acknowledging her entrance into the vale of years, to wrap -herself in her mantle of gray, and move gently down till she passes -through its extremest bourn to the mansions of immortality. - -Ah! who is there amongst us, who, having once viewed the reality of -this picture, would exchange such blessed relinquishment of the world -and all its vanities, for the bolstered back, enamelled cheek, and -be-wigged head of a modern old woman, just trembling on the verge of -the grave, and yet a candidate for the flattery of men? - -It has been most wisely said, (and it would be well if the waning -queens of beauty would adopt the reflection,) that there is a _time_ -for _everything_! We may add, that there is a time to be young, a time -to be old; a time to be loved, a time to be revered; a time to seek -life, and a time to be ready to lay it down. - -She who best knows how to fashion herself to these inevitable changes -is the only truly, only lastingly fair. Her beauty is in the mind, -and shown in action; and when men cease to admire the woman, they do -better, they revere the saint. - - - - -ON THE PECULIARITIES OF DRESS, WITH REFERENCE TO THE STATION OF THE -WEARER. - - “Dress drains our cellar dry, - And keeps our larder lean; puts out our fires, - And introduces hunger, frost, and wo, - Where peace and hospitality might reign.” - - COWPER. - - -As there is a propriety in adapting your dress to the different seasons -of your life, and the peculiar character of your figure, there is -likewise a necessity that it should correspond with the station you -hold in society. - -This is a subject not less of a moral concern than it is a matter of -taste. By the universality of finery, and expensive articles in dress, -ranks are not only rendered undistinguishable, but the fortunes of -moderate families, and of industrious tradesmen, are brought to ruin: -the sons become sharpers, and the virtue of the wives and daughters too -often follows in the same destruction. - -It is not from a proud wish to confine elegance to persons of quality, -that I contend for less extravagant habits in the middle and lower -orders of people; it is a conviction of the evil which their vanity -produces, that impels me to condemn _in toto_ the present levelling and -expensive mode. - -A tradesman’s wife is now as sumptuously arrayed as a countess; and -a waiting-maid as gaily as her lady. I speak not of our merchants, -who, like those of Florence under the Medici family, have the fortunes -of princes, and may therefore decorate the fair partners of their -lives with the rich produce of the divers countries they visit; but I -animadvert on our retail shopkeepers, our linen-drapers, upholsterers, -&c. who, not content with gold and silver baubles, trick out their -dames in jewels! No wonder that these men load their consciences with -dishonest profits, or make their last appearance in the newspaper as -insolvent or _felo de se_! - -Should the woman of moderate fortune be so ignorant of the principles -of real elegance as to sigh for the splendid apparels of the court, let -her receive as an undeniable truth, that mediocrity of circumstances -being able to afford clean and simple raiment, furnishes all that -is essential for taste to improve into perfect elegance. Riches and -splendor will attract notice, and may often excite admiration; but it -is the privilege of propriety and sweet retiring grace alone to rivet -the eye, and take captive the heart. - - “Many there are who seem to shun all care, - And with a pleasing negligence ensnare.” - -The fashion of educating all ranks of young women alike, is the cause -why all ranks of women attempt to dress alike. If the brazier’s -daughter is taught to sing, dance, and play, like the heiress to an -earldom, we must not be surprised that she will also emulate the -decorations of her rival. We see her imitate the coronet on Lady Mary’s -brows; and though Miss Molly may possibly not be able to have her’s of -gems, foil-stones produce a similar effect; then she looks for rings, -bracelets, armlets, to give appropriate grace to the elegant arts she -has learnt to practise; and when she is thus arrayed, she plays away -the wanton and the fool, till some libertine of fortune buys her either -for a wife or a mistress. - -Were girls of the plebeian classes brought up in the praiseworthy -habits of domestic duties; had they learned how to manage a house, how -to economize and produce comfort at the least expense at their father’s -frugal yet hospitable table, we should not hear of dancing-masters, -and music-masters, of French and Italian masters; they would have no -time for them. We should not see gaudy robes and glittering trinkets -dangling behind the counter, or shining at a Sunday ordinary; we should -not be told of the seduction, or ruin of those, - - “Whose modest looks the cottage might adorn, - Sweet as the primrose peeps beneath the thorn.” - -The appearance of these young women would not attract the flatterer; -and their simple hearts know not the desires of luxury and vanity. - -After having drawn this agreeable picture of her who has well chosen, -I will leave this modern daughter of industry to her discreet and -virtuous simplicity; and once more turn to her whose fortune and -station render greater change and expense in apparel not only -admissible but commendable. A woman with adequate means, when she fills -an extensive wardrobe, encourages the arts and manufactures of her -country, and replenishes the scanty purse of many a laborious family. - -At this period of universal talent, articles of dress may be purchased -at a price so insignificant as hardly to be named, or at the vast cost -of half a fortune. A pretty muslin gown may be bought by the village -girl for a few shillings; while a robe of the same material, but of a -finer quality, cannot be purchased by a lady of rank for less than as -many guineas. Indian muslin wrought with gold or silver is nearly as -costly as the stately brocades of our ancestors, but it is infinitely -more elegant. - -Indeed, when we look back upon their heavy fashions, we cannot but -see, that in almost every respect the advantage of the change is on -our side. With the stiffness of cloth of gold and embroidered tissues, -have also disappeared the enormous pile of hair, furbelows, feathers, -diamond towers, windmills, &c. which a certain witty poet used to -denominate “the building of the head.” Now, easy tresses, the shining -braid, the flowing ringlet confined by the _antique_ comb, or bodkin, -give graceful specimens of the simple taste of modern beauty. Nothing -can correspond more elegantly with the untrammelled drapery of our -newly-adopted classic raiment than this undecorated coiffure of nature. - -While we find that the pious Bishop Latimer remonstrated with the -females of his time against the monstrous superfluity of their -“roundabouts, artificial hips,” &c. &c. and recommended to their use -the “honest _single_ garment;”--our moralists, equally pious, take up -the argument on the contrary side, and justly condemn the too adhesive -and transparent robe worn by our contemporary belles! On this subject -we must dissent from the venerable reformer of the sixteenth century; -and agree with those of the nineteenth, that the _single garment_ (as -the texture now usually is) is not a meet covering for a christian -damsel. - -I am sorry to be obliged to call to your observation, my gentle -friends, that the modern fair have deviated widely from that medium -between the Bacchante and the Vestal, which a discreet candidate -for admiration would wish to preserve. The nature of man is prone -to extremes; and flying from the heavy farthingale and the stuffed -petticoat, women assume almost the Spartan guise; and, not meeting -minds in the opposite sex as pure as those in Lacedæmon, no wonder that -the chaste matron, called upon to foretell the consequence, should -remain silent, and veil her head. - -“Good sense,” says La Rochefoucault, “should be the test of all rule, -whether ancient or modern. Whatever is incompatible with good sense -must be false.” Modesty should, on the same principle, be the test of -the propriety of all personal apparel or ornament; for whatever is -incompatible with her ordinances, must degrade and betray. - -Hence you will perceive, my young readers, that in no case a true -friend or lover would wish you to discover to the eye more of the -“form divine” than can be indistinctly descried through the mysterious -involvements of, at least, three successive folds of drapery. Love, -friendship, and real taste, are alike delicate. - -To the exposure of the bosom and back, as some ladies display those -parts of their person, what shall we say? This mode (like every other -which is carried to excess and indiscriminately followed) is not only -repugnant to decency, but most exceedingly disadvantageous to the -charms of nine women out of ten. The bosom and shoulders of a very -young and fair girl may be displayed without exciting much displeasure -or disgust; the beholder regards the too prodigal exhibition, not as -the act of the youthful innocent, but as the effect of accident, or -perhaps the designed exposure of some ignorant dresser. But when a -woman, grown to the age of discretion, of her own choice “unveils her -beauties to the sun and moon,” then, from even an Helen’s charms the -sated eye turns away loathing. - -Were we even in a frantic and impious passion to set virtue aside, -policy should direct our damsels to be more sparing of their -attractions. An unrestrained indulgence of the eye robs imagination of -her power, and prevents her consequent influence on the heart. And if -this be the case where real beauty is exposed, how much more subversive -of its aim must be the studied display of an ordinary or deformed -figure! - -Judgment, as well as decency, declares, that it is sufficient in the -evening and full-dress to disrobe the back of the neck to the top of -the delicate undulation on the rise of the shoulder. Women, according -to the fineness of their skins and proportions, must accept or decline -the privileges which modesty grants. It is preposterous for her who -is of a brown, dingy, or speckled complexion, to disarray her neck -and arms, as her fairer rival may. A clear brunette has as much -liberty in this respect as the fairest; but not so the muddy-skinned -and ill-formed. A candid consideration of our pretensions on these -subjects, and an impartial judgment, must decide our style of apparel, -and consequently our respectability with the discerning. - -Perhaps it is necessary to remind my reader that custom regulates the -veiling or unveiling the figure, according to different periods in the -day. In the morning, the arms and bosom must be completely covered to -the throat and wrists. From the dinner-hour to the termination of the -day, the arms, to a graceful height above the elbow, may be bare; and -the neck and shoulders unveiled as far as delicacy will allow. - -As Cicero said of _action_, so say ye of the essentials of your -charms. What is the eloquence of your beauty?--Modesty! What is its -first argument?--Modesty! What is its second?--Modesty! What is its -third?--Modesty!--What is its peroration, the winding up of all -its charms, the striking spell that binds the heart of man to her -forever?--Modesty!!!--In the words of Moore, - - “Let that which charms all other eyes - Seem worthless in your own!” - -Modesty is all in all; for it comprises the beauties of the mind as -well as those of the body; and happy is he who finds her! - -The bosom, which nature has formed with exquisite symmetry in itself, -and admirable adaptation to the parts of the figure to which it is -united, has been transformed into a shape, and transplanted to a -place, which deprives it of its original beauty and harmony with the -rest of the person. This hideous metamorphosis has been effected by -means of newly-invented stays, or corsets, which, by an extraordinary -construction and force of material, force the figure of the wearer into -whatever form the artist pleases. - -Curiosity may incline you to wish to know something better of these -buckram machines, that you may form an idea of their intention, use, or -rather inutility. I will satisfy you by describing them to the best of -my power. - -The leader in this arming phalanx is usually called _long-stay_. And -its announcement to the female world, if not by drum or trumpet, -furnishes not only much matter for oratory in the advertisement, but -a no inconsiderable fund of merriment to the readers of these curious -performances. For instance, “Mrs. and Miss L. P. have willed it, and it -is done at their house,” &c. &c. Here follows a list of their _improved -long stay_, _pregnant stay_, _divorces_, &c. &c. O! female delicacy, -where is thy blush, when thou lookest on such exposure of the chaste -reserves of thy person! - -The first time my eyes met these words so coupled, I was seized with -that honest shuddering which every delicate woman ought to feel at -seeing the parts and situations of her person which modesty bids her -conceal, thus dragged before the imagination of the opposite sex. The -pure must read it with the frown of disgust--the impure with the smile -of ridicule. To this moment, though I find that nothing disrespectful -to modesty was _meant_ by the advertisement, I cannot approve of the -terms in which it is written; for it is my opinion, (and I am so happy -as to be supported in it by the sanction of the wisest moralists,) -that, rob woman of her delicate reserves, and you take from her one of -the best strong holds of her chastity. You deprive her of her sweet -attractive mysteries; you lay open to the eye of love the arcana of her -toilet, the infirmities of her nature; the enchantment is broken, and -“the bloom of young desire, the purple light of the soul’s enthusiasm,” -expire at the disclosure. - -To please my still curious readers, I will still further displease -myself, and enter more circumstantially into a detail of these strange -appendages to a female wardrobe. - -But before I proceed with my remarks on the _long stay_, (the -ringleader of the rest,) I will so far rescue the intention of its -constructors from any _design_ to excite improper ideas by the words of -their advertisement, as to explain to you the proposed usefulness of -the inventions denominated _pregnant stay_, and _divorces_. - -The first is a _corset_ or _stay_ of dimity, or jean, or silk, reaching -from the shoulders down to the waist, and over the hips, to the -complete envelopement of the body. It is rendered of more than ordinary -power by elastic bones, &c. which, introduced between the lining and -covering of the _stay_, bring it into something of the consistency -and shape of an ancient warrior’s hauberk. This new-fashioned coat of -mail for the fair sex is so constructed, as to compress and reduce to -the shape desired the natural prominence of the female figure in a -state of fruitfulness. Some women, who are bold enough to wear this -Procrustean garb during every stage of their pregnancy, affirm that -it preserves their shape without injury to their state of increase. -However this may be with a few hardy individuals, I profess myself no -proselyte to the innovation, as it must necessarily put a degree of -restraint upon the operations of nature, very likely to produce bad -effects both on the mother and the child. - -Support and confinement to an overstrained part are two different -things; the one is beneficial, the other destructive. And this I can -assure my readers, that I ever have remarked those married women who -have longest maintained their virgin forms were those who, in a state -of maternal increase, observed a proper medium between a too relaxed -and a too contracted boddice. - -Nature in these concerns is our best guide; and when she dictates to us -to provide against the possible disagreeable consequences of any of her -operations, it is well to obey her; but when a fastidious, and, allow -me to say, an indelicate, regard to personal charms would excite you -to brace with ribs of whalebone the soft mould of your unborn infant; -or when it has, in spite of these arts, burst its prison-house alive, -you seek to deprive it of the nourishment your breast prepares--then -remember you perform not the duty of a mother, but show yourself -rather egregiously guilty of wantonness and unpardonable cruelty. - -No person living can feel a more lively admiration than that which -animates me at the sight of a beautiful form, - - --“rife - With all we can imagine of the sky.” - -I behold in it the work of the most perfect being--the accomplishment -of one of his fairest designs. He seems to show in earthy mould the -lovely transcript of the angels of heaven: she looks, she breathes, -of innocence and sweet unconscious beauty. But when I cast my eyes on -women issuing from the house of a modern manufacturer of shapes; when -I see the functions of nature impeded by bands and ligatures; when I -behold the abode of virgin modesty thrust forward to the gaze of the -libertine; when I observe the pains taken to attract his eye,--I turn -away disgusted, and blush for my sex. - -Vile as these meretricious arts are, they are not less dangerous to -health than to morals. The constant pressure of such hard substances as -whalebone, steel, &c. upon so susceptible a part as the bosom, is very -likely, in the course of a very short time, to produce all the horrid -consequences of abscesses, cancers, &c.: on their miseries I need not -to descant. - -On the _long stay_ I shall now make a few remarks, arising from the -observations I have been enabled to make on the ladies of various ages -and figures whom I have known wear it. To the woman whose waning charms -set in an exuberance of flesh, perhaps the support of this adventitious -aid is an advantage. But in that case its stiffening should rather -be cord quilted in the lining, or very thin whalebone, than either -steel or iron. In all situations, the boddice should be flexible to -the motion of the body and the undulations in the shape; and it should -never be _felt_ to _press_ upon any part. - -Thus far we may tolerate the adoption of this buckram suit for elderly, -or excessively _embonpoint_ ladies; but for the _growing_ girl (whom, I -am sorry to say, mothers not unfrequently imprison in these machines,) -it is both unrequired and mischievous. - -Before nature has completed her work in the perfection of the youthful -figure, she is checked in her progress by the impediment which -the valves, bands, &c. of the _long stay_ throw in her way. Those -finely-rounded points which mark the distinction and the grace of the -female form, and which the artist, enamored of beauty, delights to -delineate with the nicest accuracy, are, by the constant pressure of -these _stays_, rendered indistinct, and in a short time are entirely -destroyed. - -Let, then, the _long stay_ be restricted to the too abundant mass -of fattening matronhood; so may art restrain the excesses, not of -nature, but of disease. Unwieldly flesh was never yet seen in a -perfectly healthy person. It generally arises either from intemperance -overloading the functions of life, or dissipation decomposing them. - -Let the _padded corset_ rectify the defects of the deformed; but where -nature has given the outline of a well-constructed form, forbear to -traverse her designs. Youth should be left to spring up, unconfined, -like the young cedar; and when the hand of man, or accident, does not -distort the pliant stem, it will grow erect and firm, spreading its -beautiful and cheerful shade over the heads of its planters. - - - - -OF THE DETAIL OF DRESS. - - “We have run - Through every change, that fancy at the loom - Exhausted has had genius to supply; - And, studious of mutation still, discard - A real elegance a little used - For monstrous novelty and strange disguise.” - - COWPER. - - -There are few things in which our sex can discover more taste than in -the choice of the apparel which may best accord with their several -styles of figures and features; but we frequently see the direct -opposite of good judgment in their selections, and behold between the -person and the attire a complete and laughable incongruity. - -Some women will actually disguise and disfigure themselves, rather -than not appear in the prevailing fashion, which, though advantageous -to one character of face, may have the direct contrary effect with -another. I hinted at this in the earlier part of this dissertation; now -I come closer to my subject, intending to enter into a minute detail -of what ought or ought not to be worn by women of different moulds and -complexions. - -If Daphne have the features of a Siddons, and Amaryllis those of a -Jordan, the style which agrees with the one must ill accord with the -other. The like harmony must be maintained between the complexion -and the colors we wear; for it is in these minutiæ which, like the -nice and almost imperceptible touches of the ingenious artist, produce -a complete and faultless whole. That a handsome woman may disfigure -herself by an injudicious choice or disposition of her attire; and a -plain one counteract the errors of nature, so as to render herself -at least agreeable, almost every experienced observer has witnessed. -We may therefore conclude, that beauty with a bad taste is far less -desirable than a good taste without beauty. - -“What an awkward creature is that!” said a gentleman to me the other -evening at a supper, and pointing to a _slatternly_ beauty who sat -opposite, with her chin nearly reposing on her bosom, and her shoulders -drawn up almost to her ears. “Yonder is a very elegant woman!” observed -he, directing my attention to a lady who, critically considered, was -rather ordinary; but by her judicious style of dress, her unstudied -graces of deportment, claimed universal admiration. - -To support my arguments with those of a lady whose taste is best -evinced by her own personal elegance, I shall give you a short extract -from a little tract of her’s, which, like the divine Psyché of Mrs. -Tighe, has been only permitted to meet the eyes of a favored few. - -“Who is there among us that has not witnessed a beautiful woman so -apparelled as to render her rather an object of pity and ridicule than -of admiration? How often do we see simplicity and youthful loveliness -obscured by a redundancy of ornaments! How often do the robust and -healthy, the majestic and the gay, the pensive and the sportive, -follow the same mode; marring, mingling and mangling without mercy, -and without taste; regardless of discrimination, appropriation, or -judgment; to the total overthrow of the attractions which nature -liberally bestowed! Do not these ladies perceive that each style of -personal beauty has a distinct character to support? That a tasteful -adaptation will enforce the stamp which nature has impressed? Let -us then admonish the female whose beauty is of the fair, pale, -and interesting cast, not to render her appearance insipid by the -overpowering hues of robes, mantles, pelisses, &c. of amber, orange, -grass-green, crimson, or rose-color. This soft style of beauty makes -its appeal to our most delicate perceptions; all grossness of color -displeases them, and therefore should not be admitted in the articles -of her dress. - -“Grass-green, though a color exceedingly pleasing and refreshing in -itself, jaundices the complexion of the pale woman to such a degree, as -to excite little other sensations in the beholder than compassion for -the poor invalid. Such females should, in general, choose their robes -of an _entire color_; and when they wear white garments, they should -animate them with draperies, mantles, scarfs, ribbons, &c. of pale -pink, blossom-color, celestial blue, lilac, dove-color, and primrose; -leaving full green, deep blue, and purple, to the florid; and amber, -scarlet, orange, flame-color, and deep rose, to the brunette. - -“Thus much we offer in the suitable appropriations of colors. We -shall now proceed to say something on the prevailing fashions of the -day; and though we may fairly congratulate our countrywomen on their -taste and improvement in this particular, yet here also the regulating -hand of judgment, the nice and discriminating effects of genius, and -the directing influence of a delicate and just taste, become most -importantly necessary. - -“The mantle, or cottage-cloak, should never be worn by females -exceeding a moderate _embonpoint_; and we should recommend their -winter garbs, such as Russian pelisses and Turkish wraps, to be formed -of double sarsnet, or fine Merino cloth, rather than velvets, which -(except black) give an appearance of increased size to the wearer. In -the adoption of furs, flat-ermine or fringe fur is better suited to -the full-formed woman that swan’s-down, fox, chinchilla, or sable; -these are graceful for the more slender. Women of a spare habit, and -of a tall and elegant height, will derive considerable advantage from -the full-flowing robe, mantle, and Roman tunic. The fur-trimming, too, -gives to them an appearance of roundness which nature has denied; and -to this description of person we can scarcely recommend an evening -dress more chaste, elegant, and advantageous, than robes of white -satin, trimmed with swan’s-down, with draperies of silver or gossamer -net. The antique head-dress, or queen Mary _coif_, is best adapted to -the Roman and Grecian line of feature. The Chinese hat and Highland -helmet are becoming to countenances of a rounder and more playful -contour. - -“We have frequently, in our observations, found occasion to lament, in -the present style of female dress, a want of that proper distinction -which should ever be attended to in the several degrees of _costume_. -For instance, the short gown, so appropriate and convenient for -walking, and pursuing morning avocations or exercises, intrudes -beyond its sphere when seen in the evening or full dress. It is in -the splendid drawing-room that the train robe appears with all that -superiority which gives pre-eminence to grace, and dignity to beauty. - -“Why should these pleasingly-varying distinctions be neglected? The -long sleeve, too, (now so universal in almost every order of dress,) -belongs with strict propriety only to the domestic habit. These are -inattentions or faults which a correct taste will quickly discover, and -easily rectify. It is dangerous to level distinctions in one case, and -disadvantageous in the other. There should be a just and reasonable -discipline in trifles, as well as in matters of higher import. There is -a vast deal more in things of seeming insignificance than is commonly -imagined. Subjects of importance, high achievements, and glorious -examples, strike every beholder; but there are few who reflect that -it is by perseverance, and attention to comparative trifles, that -mighty deeds are performed, and that great consequences are ultimately -produced. - -“A correct taste is ever the concomitant of a chaste mind; for, -as a celebrated author has justly observed, _our taste commonly -declines with our merit_. A correct taste is the offspring of all -that is delicate in sentiment and just in conception; it softens -the inflexibility of truth, and decks reason in the most persuasive -garments. - -“A walking-dress cannot be constructed too simply. All attractive and -fancy articles should be confined to the carriage-dress, or dinner -and evening apparel. We shall here particularly address the order of -females who may not have the luxury of a carriage, and yet be within -the rank of gentlewomen. This class composes treble the number of those -to whom fortune has bestowed the appendages of equipages and retinue. -We shall, in our observations, particularly aim at increasing their -respectability, by leading them to adopt a style of adornment, which, -while it combines fashion and elegance, shall be remarkable only for -its neatness and simplicity. - -“It has been said that the love of dress is natural to the sex; and we -see no reason why any female should be offended with the assertion. -‘Dress,’ says an author on the subject, ‘is the natural finish of -beauty. Without dress a handsome person is a gem, but a gem that is not -set.’ Dress, however, must be subject to certain rules; be consistent -with the graces, and with nature. By attention to these particulars, is -produced that agreeable exterior which pleases, we know not why,--which -charms, even without that first and powerful attraction, beauty. - -“Fashion, in her various flights, frequently soars beyond the reach of -propriety. Good sense, taste, and delicacy, then make their appeal in -vain. Her despotic and arbitrary sway levels and confounds. Where is -delicacy? where is policy? we mentally exclaim, when we see the fair -inconsiderate votary of fashion exposing, unseemly, that bosom which -good men delight to imagine the abode of innocence and truth. Can the -gaze of the voluptuous, the unlicensed admiration of the profligate, -compensate to the woman of sentiment and purity for what she loses in -the estimation of the moral and the just? - -“But, delicacy apart, what shall we say to the blind conceit of the -robust, the coarse, the waning fair one, who thus obtrude the ravages -of time upon the public eye? Let us not offend. We wish to lead -to conviction, not to awaken resentment.--Fashion must, in these -instances, have borrowed the bondage of fortune, and so blinded her -votaries against the sober dictates of reason, the mild dignity of -self-respect. - -“There is a mediocrity which bounds all things, and even fixes the -standard which divides virtue from bombast. Let us, therefore, in -every concern, endeavor to observe this happy temperature. Let the -youthful female exhibit, without shade, as much of her bust as shall -come within the limits of fashion, without infringing on the borders -of immodesty. Let the fair of riper years appear less exposed. To -sensible and tasteful women a hint is merely required. They need -not very close instructions; for at once they perceive, combine, -and adopt, with judgment and delicacy. The rules of propriety are -followed, as it were, instinctively by them; and their example is -so impressed on the generality of our lovely countrywomen, (who, -too often and inconsiderately, follow the vagaries of fashion with, -perhaps, ridiculous avidity,) that we must take upon us to correct -the irregularities of the many, in hopes that the judicious few will -embrace grace, and make it universal. - -“Far be it from us to lead the female mind from its solemn engagements -to the pursuit of comparative nothings. But there is a time and place -for all things, and for every innocent purpose under heaven; and on -these grounds we do not see why a female should not blend the agreeable -with the estimable. - -“There are persons who neglect their dress from pride, and a desire -to attract by a careless singularity; but wherever this is the case, -depend on it something is wrong in the mind. Lavater has observed, -that persons habitually attentive to their attire display the same -regularity in their domestic affairs. ‘Young women,’ he continues, ‘who -neglect their toilet, and manifest little concern about dress, indicate -a general disregard of order; a mind but ill adapted to the detail of -house-keeping; a deficiency of taste, and of the qualities that inspire -love:--they will be careless in everything. The girl of eighteen who -desires not to please, will be a slut, or a shrew, at twentyfive. Pay -attention, young men, to this sign; it never yet was known to deceive.’ - -“Hence we see that the desire of exhibiting an amiable exterior is -essentially requisite in woman. It is to be received as an unequivocal -symbol of those qualities which we seek in a wife; it indicates -cleanliness, sweetness, a love of order, and of universal propriety. -What, then, is there to censure in a moderate consideration of -dress?--Nothing. We may blame when we find extravagance, profusion, -misappropriation; the tyranny of fashion; slavery to vanity; in short, -bad taste! - -“Let us then urge the British fair to that elegant simplicity, that -discriminating selection, which combines fashion, utility, and grace. -Thus shall the inventive faculty of genius be honored and encouraged, -and industry receive the reward of its ingenuity and labors. - -“We shall now proceed to notice the present articles which claim -fashionable pre-eminence, and give some useful hints on their -application. - -“As a walking habit, we know of none in summer which is more graceful -than the lightly flowing shade of lace or finest muslin. And in winter -no invention can exceed the Trans-Baltic coat or Lapland-wrap. These -comfortable shields from the cold are usually formed of cloth or -velvet, with deep collars and cuffs of sable, or other well-contrasted -fur. Ladies of the first nobility usually have them lined throughout -with the same costly skins. These garments wrap over the figure in -front; sometimes they have them without other ornament than their -bordering furs; and at others, fasten them with magnificent clasps and -buckles. We have seen one of these coats (or, as northern travellers -denominate them, _shoubs_,) on a female of high rank, composed of -crimson-velvet, with deep cuffs, cape and collar of spotted ermine, and -a deep border of the same down the sides. It had a superb effect; and, -with the imperial helmet-hat of the same material, exhibited one of the -most sumptuous carriage costumes that can be imagined. - -“When this dress is adopted by the pedestrian fair, we recommend it to -be of a more sober hue, and that the bonnet should be of the provincial -poke or cottage form. - -“Short women destroy the symmetry of their forms, and encumber their -charms, with redundancy of ornament, either in their morning or evening -attires. A little woman, befeathered and furbelowed, looks like a queen -of the Bantam tribe; and we dare not approach her for fear of ruffling -her plumes. Feathers are much in vogue; and though formerly a symbol of -full dress, are now often a mark of graceful negligence, and are seen -falling carelessly, and floating with ease; they kiss the rosy cheek -of youth and health; or, less courteous, steal the vermilion from the -painted face of fading maturity, as, fanned by the spiteful breeze, -they wave from her bonneted head in the gay promenade. - -“We love to see our countrywomen remarkable for elegance and modesty, -as well as beauty. Englishmen, accustomed to objects of undisputed -loveliness, aim at something beyond the surface of external charms; -they require that all should be fair within. - -“Hear what a male writer has observed on the fashion of exposing -the bosom! ‘A woman, proud of her beauty,’ says he, ‘may possibly -be nothing but a coquette; one who makes a public display of her -_bosom_, is something worse.’ This writer insinuates too much; for we -believe that so far from our females being actuated in this case by -any unbecoming motive, they too commonly act from no motive at all, -save that blind and mistaken one which we have so much condemned--_the -heedless adoption of an absurdity because it is the fashion_! But -let the inconsiderate beauty remember, that where two motives can be -assigned to an action, the world will generally adopt that which is -least favorable!” - -Though I have made this extract, which enters so intimately into the -secrets of the toilet, and descants so engagingly on its attractive -subject, I must desire that it may not be supposed I would seek -to create an inordinate degree of care respecting that which is -comparatively of no account, when placed in competition with the -indispensable qualities and acquirements which ought to adorn the -Christian maid. I would have my fair friends be fully impressed with -the truth, that it is not she who spends the most time at her toilet -that is usually the best dressed; a too zealous care generally subverts -the effect it was meant to produce. It is very easy to “varnish till -the painting disappears.” A multiplicity of ornaments ever distracts -the attention, and detracts from feminine loveliness. They are regarded -as a sort of _make weights_ in a scale, where nature must have been a -niggard to render them necessary. - -In the like manner, a diversity of colors bespeaks vulgarity of -taste, and a mind without innate elegance or acquired culture. Where -doubt may be about this or that hue being becoming or genteel (as it -is very possible it may neither be the one nor the other,) let the -puzzled beauty leave both, and securely array herself in simple white, -“pure as her mind.” That primeval hue never offends, and frequently -is the most graceful robe that youth and loveliness can wear. “It is -inconceivable,” says a writer on the subject, “how much the color of -a gown or a shawl may heighten or destroy the beauty of a complexion; -and how much the sex in general neglect these (to them) important -particulars.” Every consideration must yield to the prevailing mode; -and to this tyrant all advantages are sacrificed. Women no longer -consult their figures, but the whim of the moment; and it is sufficient -for them that the Duchess of D----, or the Marchioness of E----, -appeared in _murry_ color or _coquelicot_, to make all the _belles_ in -England, black, brown, or fair, array themselves in the same livery. - -Nothing contributes more to the setting forth of the beauties of a -complexion than the choice of the colors opposed to it. Women should -not only be nice in this adaptation, but they must be careful that -the different shades or hues they admit in the various parts of their -garments should accord with each other. - -Here it is that we distinguish the woman of taste from the hoyden, -ready to employ a pedlar’s pack upon her shoulders. To attempt to -contrast two shades of the same color, has in general a very harsh -effect; indeed I never saw it harmonize in the least, except in the -case of two greens as a trimming; or in the beautiful blending of -nature in the form and hues of flowers. - -It is also not unworthy of remark, that colors which are to make a -part of evening apparel ought to be chosen by candle-light; for if -in the morning, forgetful of the influence of different lights on -these things, you purchase a robe of pale yellow, purple, lilac, or -rose-color, you will be greatly disappointed when at night it is -observed to you that your dress is either dingy, foxy, or black. - -The harmonious assortment of well-chosen colors was once quite a -science amongst women; and even now it may not only be considered as -a specimen of delicate taste, but a proof of that genius which, if -cultivated, might distil the hues of Iris over the animated canvass -fraught with beauty and life. - -This union of a thousand dyes, “by nature’s pure and cunning hand laid -on,” cannot be found in greater perfection than in the resplendent lap -of summer; then the earth teems with gay enchantment, and presents to -the fair wanderers through her fragrant bowers the loveliest raiment -for their beauties. This animating and native ornament, so interesting -and charming in itself, should ever find a place on the toilet of -youth. How can a beauteous young woman (the fairest production of -creation) be more suitably adorned than with this sweet apparel of the -fairest season? It is uniting “sweets to the sweet.” Flowers recall so -many pleasing images to the mind, that when a beholder sees them, he is -ever put in a temper to admire; and, when they are found blended with -the beauties of a lovely girl, the effect is irresistible. - -The simple wreath of roses, the jessamine, the lily of the valley, -the snow-drop, the brilliant ranunculus, and a long train of rival -sweets, offer themselves at the shrine of female taste. From this rich -assemblage are selected and formed those delicious garlands which deck -the snowy brows of Celia, which twine with Chloe’s golden hair. From -this fair parterre we collect the variegated _bouquet_, which, reposing -on the bosom of beauty, mingles its fragrant breath with hers. - -This tender, this exquisite sweetness, which we inhale from the lily, -the rose, or the violet, is far preferable to all the extracted -perfumes that ever were wafted “from Indus to the pole.” They are not -only purer and more balmy; but, when, on approaching a lovely woman, -we find, not only our eye delighted with the sight of beauty, but our -senses “wrapped in the sweet embrace of soft perfumes;” when it is not -the preconcerted fragrancy of essences drawn from east to west, and -poured upon the fair with the design to _affect our senses_; then we -yield ourselves to the lovely breathing of nature. We see her in the -charming creature before us, blooming in youth and freshness; we feel -her in the thousand odors of Paradise emanating from the newly-plucked -flowers, which seem to share her being, imbibing and partaking -sweetness. - -Amidst the variety of materials with which women decorate their -persons, there is not one that requires greater discrimination in the -use than those articles of jewelry which we denominate trinkets. Here -good taste, the general regulatrix, now resumes her sway. The blind -directress of the luxuriant imagination gives grace to solidity, and -consequence to trifles. Her magic spirit breathes in the laurels of -the hero, dwells on the lip of oratory, and sparkles in the gem that -decorates the fair! - -To women of the most exalted as well as of the more humble ranks, we -recommend a moderate, rather than a profuse, display of conspicuous -and showy ornaments. A well-educated taste ought to open the eyes -of a woman to be a tolerably correct judge of the perfections or -imperfections of her own person; and by that judgment she ought to -regulate the adoption or rejection of striking decoration. - -It is well to remind my youthful reader that she can never learn these -truths (when they are on the defective side) but from the decisions -of her own impartial mind. Few women, much less men, would venture to -say to an improperly dressed young lady,--“Madam, your fingers are two -clumsy to wear with advantage that brilliant ring;--your neck and arms -are two meagre, discolored, or coarse, to adopt the pearl bracelet -or necklace; unless, indeed, you soften the contrast by putting a -lace shirt and long sleeves between your skin and the pearls.” These -observations would place the too frank adviser in a similar situation -with that of Gil Blas when correcting the manuscripts of the conceited -_Prelate of Granada_;--and, therefore, we cannot expect that any friend -should run the risk of incurring our resentment, when they might retain -our favor by only permitting us to make ourselves as ridiculous as we -please. - -Let me then, in the light of an _author_, who cannot be supposed, -in a general address, to mean any individual personal reflections, -admonish my readers, one and all, not to neglect composing their -complexions with the hues and brilliancy of the gems offered to them to -wear. Clear brunettes shine with the greatest lustre when they adopt -pearls, diamonds, topazes, and bright amber. The fair beauty may also -wear all these with advantage, while she exclusively claims as her -own, emeralds, garnets, amethysts, rubies, onyxes, &c. &c. Cornelian, -coral, and jet, may be worn by either; but certainly produce the most -pleasing effect on the rose and lily complexion. - -Ornaments and trimmings of silver are to be preferred to gold, when -intended for the fair beauty. The white lustre of the first of these -costly metals harmonizes better with delicacy of skin than the glaring -effulgence of the gold. By a parity of reasoning, gold agrees better -with the brunette, as its yellow and flaming hue lights up the fire of -her eyes, and exhibits her complexion in the brightest contrast. - -If the _clavicle_, or collar-bone, be too apparent, either from -accidental thinness or original shape, remedy the defect by letting -the necklace fall immediately into the cavity which the ungraceful -projection occasions. But should this bone protrude itself to an -absolutely ugly extent, I would recommend the neck to be completely -covered by a lace handkerchief and frill; for its exposure would only -give a bad specimen of a figure which may be, in every other part, of a -just and fine proportion. - -If the prevailing fashion be to reject the long sleeve, and to -partially display the arm, let the glove advance considerably above the -elbow, and there be fastened with a drawing-string, or armlet. But this -should only be the case when the arm is muscular, coarse, or scraggy. -When it is fair, smooth, and round, it will admit of the glove being -pushed down to a little above the wrists. - -There is perhaps no single beauty of the female form which obtains so -much admiration as a well-proportioned foot and ankle. Possibly the -liveliness of this sentiment may be increased in this instance by the -rarity of the perfection being found amongst the British fair. - -There is a _je ne sais quoi_ in a fine ankle, which seems to assure the -gazer that the whole of the form, of which it is a sample, is shaped -with the same exquisite grace. A heavy leg and foot seems to hint that -the whole of the limbs which the drapery conceals are in a gravitating -proportion with their clumsy foundations; and where we see ponderosity -of body, we are apt to conclude that there is equal heaviness in mind -and feelings. This may be an unjust mode of reasoning, but it is a very -common one; and so I account for the general prejudice against any -unusual weight in the lower extremities. - -When we consider that it required the famous sculptor of Greece to -collect the most beautiful virgins from every part of his country -before he could find a living model for every part of his projected -statue of perfect beauty; when we consider this, that the very native -land of female charms could not produce one woman completely faultless -in her form--how can we be so unreasonable as to demand such perfection -in a daughter of Britain? - -Let not the other sex scrutinize too closely, nor demand that -universal and correct symmetry in their wives and daughters, which -was never yet found but in the elaborately chiseled models of the -sculptor’s study. - -It must not, however, be presumed from what I have said, that the -generality of other countries are happier in the beautiful formation -of their women’s forms than England, or that the British fair are at -all more notorious than many other nations for heavy feet and legs. So -far from it, there are ladies in England with feet and ankles of so -delicate a symmetry, that there is nothing in modelling or in marble -to excel their perfection. But to make a display of them--to exhibit -them by unusually short petticoats, and draw attention by extraordinary -gay attire, is an instance of immodesty and ill-taste, which attracts -contempt instead of admiration. Men despise her for her impropriety, -and envious women have a fair subject on which to ground their -detractions. - -In short, it can never be sufficiently inculcated, that modesty is the -most graceful ornament of beauty. - - “She that has that, is clad in complete steel.” - -Be the foot eminently handsome, or the reverse, it alike requires to be -arrayed soberly. Except on certain brilliant occasions, its shoe should -be confined to grave and clean-looking colors; of the first, black, -grays, and browns; of the last, white, nankeen, pale-blue, green, &c., -according to the color of the dress, and the time of day. I should -suppose it almost useless to say, that (except in a carriage) the dark -colors ought to be preferred in a morning. To be sure, there is nothing -out of character in wearing nankeen shoes or half-boots in the early -part of the day, even in walking, provided the other parts of your -dress be spotless white, or of the same buff hue. The other delicate -colors I have mentioned above (I repeat, except in a carriage) are -confined to evening dresses. Red morocco, scarlet, and those very vivid -hues, cannot be worn with any propriety until winter, when the color of -the mantle or pelisse may sanction its fulness. On brilliant assembly -nights, or court drawing-rooms, the spangled or diamond-decorated -slipper has a magnificent and appropriate effect. But for the raiment -of the leg, we totally disapprove, at all times, of the much ornamented -stocking. - -The open-wove clock and instep, instead of displaying fine proportion, -confuse the contour; and may produce an impression of gaiety, but -exclude that of beauty, whose rays always strike singly. But if the -cloak be a colored or a gold one, as I have sometimes seen, how glaring -is the exhibition! how coarse the association of ideas it produces -in the fancy! Instead of a woman of refined manners and polished -habits, your imagination reverts to the gross and revolting females -of Portsmouth-point, or Plymouth-dock; or at least to the hired -opera-dancer, whose business it is to make her foot and ankle the -principal object which characterizes her charms, and attracts the _coup -d’œil_ of the whole assembly. - -If I may give my fair friends a hint on this delicate subject, it would -be that the finest rounded ankles are most effectually shown by wearing -a silk stocking _without any clock_. The eye then slides easily over -the unbroken line, and takes in all its beauties. But when the ankle is -rather large, or square, then a pretty unobtrusive net clock, of the -same color as the stocking, will be a useful division, and induce the -beholder to believe the perfect symmetry of the parts. A very thick leg -cannot be disguised or amended; and in this case I can only recommend -absolute neatness in the dressing of the limb, and petticoats so long -that there is hardly a chance of its ever being seen. - -One cause of _thick ankles_ in young women is want of exercise, and -abiding much in overheated rooms. Standing too long has often the same -effect, by subjecting the limb to an unnatural load, and therefore to -swelling. The only preventive, or cure, for this malady, is a strict -attention to health. You might as well expect to see a rose-bush -spring, bud, and bloom, in a closely-pent oven, as anticipate fine -proportions and complexion from a long continuance of the exotic -fashions of modern days. - -If a girl wishes to be well-shaped and well-complexioned, she must -use due exercise _on foot_. Horseback is an excellent auxiliary, as -it gives much the same degree of motion, with double the animation, -in consequence of the change of air, and variation of objects; but -carriage exercise is so little, that we cannot recommend it to any case -that is short of an absolute invalid. A woman in respectable health -must _walk_, to maintain her happy temperament. By this she will still -more consolidate her solids, and preserve the shape with which nature -has kindly endowed her. If it was originally fine, it will remain; -and if it was but ordinary, it will at least save itself from growing -deformed. - - - - -ON DEPORTMENT. - - “Grace was in all her steps, heaven in her eye, - In every gesture dignity and love.” - - MILTON. - - -Having discoursed so largely on form and apparel, I shall now throw -together a few hints on that indispensable assistant-grace of beauty, -an elegant and appropriate air. - -This subject should be particularly considered; and the arguments from -such reflections strongly enforced on the attention of young women. -There is scarcely an observer of manners and their effects, who will -not maintain that the most beautiful and well-dressed woman will soon -cease to please, unless her charms are accompanied with the ineffable -enchantment of a graceful demeanor. A pretty face may be seen every -day, but grace and elegance, being generally the offspring of a -polished mind, are more distinguished. - -While we exult in the pre-eminent beauty of our fair countrywomen; -while we talk of their lilies and roses, and downy skins; we cannot but -shrink from comparison when we bring their manners in parallel with the -females of other nations, who have not half their corporeal advantages. - -I am not going to deny, that in this land of beauty, (a land to which -a certain cardinal, many centuries ago, gave the appellation of _the -native paradise of angels_!) we shall find the fair - - “Fitted to shine in courts, or walk the shade, - With innocence and contemplation join’d.” - -There are many lovely women of all ranks in England who merit this -encomium: but I am not writing an eulogium on these happy exceptions; -I feel it my duty to admonish the general race of my female -contemporaries. To the rising generation I especially address myself; -and when the young belle in her teens listens to the suggestions of -experience, perhaps the advice may not be quite so unpalatable, when -she understands that it comes from one who has studied the graces -at more than one of the courts of the Bourbons; and, since their -dispersion, has followed the flight of elegance wherever it was to be -found. - -The _awkward, reserved_ air of the early part of the last century -has given way, not to _grace_ and _frankness_, but to an _unblushing -impudence_, which is the very assassin of female virtue and connubial -honor. Think not I am too severe, ye indulgent mothers! regard me -not as a cynic, ye thoughtless daughters of imitation! I mean not to -arraign your hearts, but your manners; I seek to pluck the garb of -Phryné from your chaste and Christian shoulders. Who, that is an -actress, when called upon to perform the part of spotless _Virginia_, -would rush upon the stage half naked, dancing, rolling her eyes as -if intoxicated, and flirting with every officer of the _pretorian -guard_ who crossed her path? In such a case should we not call the -actress mad? or say, “If such were Virginia, he performed a rash and -unnecessary act, who avenged the insulted person of such a wanton on -the first magistrate of Rome!” - -Yet such Virginias are our Virginias! and to see a modest, abashed, -retiring, blushing girl enter one of our assemblies, is as uncommon a -sight as now and then an embassy from a foreign land. The modern taste -for exhibitions of all kinds is the chief source of this depravity; -a girl is no longer taught to dance that she may move easily in the -occasional festivities of her neighborhood, and enjoy the graceful -exercise of a birth-day or a race ball, without annoying the movements -of her companions. No! these are not sufficient: she takes her lessons -of the _corps de ballet_, that she may present herself in the ball-room -or on a stage; and while the motions of her limbs, and the exposure -of her person, scandalize every discreet matron present, she believes -herself the object of general admiration, the very _ne plus ultra_ of -the art. In like manner, her musical talents are cultivated. She does -not learn to compose, with her sweet lullaby, the unquiet hours of -old age or of sickness, to rest and sleep: enough for her relations, -father, brothers, husband, that she practises all day the crude and -disagreeable parts of her lessons. It is for the guest, the gay -assembly, the concert of _amateurs_, that she reserves her harmonies; -and to them she sings and plays till she believes _herself_ the tenth -muse, and _them_ her adorers. - -Can we be surprised that from such an education should be produced the -vain, the conceited, the presumptuous, the impudent? - -To check this growing evil, by showing the young candidate for -admiration what is “woman’s best knowledge and her praise;” to show her -what is indeed the proper, the graceful, the winning deportment, is the -design of these few following pages; and I trust that my young reader -will receive them as the admonition of a tender and experienced parent, -and not allow “a mother’s precepts to be vain!” - -Having laid it down as a first principle, that no demeanor, whether -in a princess or a country girl, can be becoming that is not grounded -in _feminine delicacy_, I shall proceed to show, that a different -deportment is expected from different persons. Certain characteristics -of persons are suited to certain styles of manner; and also the same -demeanor does not agree as well with the steward’s daughter as the -squire’s bride. - -As in a former chapter I have particularized the dresses which are -adapted to the gay and the grave, so in the next I propose pointing out -the appropriate miens which belong to the various degrees of beauty and -classes of society. - - - - -PECULIARITIES IN CARRIAGE AND DEMEANOR. - - “By her graceful walk, the Queen of Love is known.” - - VIRGIL. - - -As order is the beautiful harmonizer of the universe, so consistency is -the graceful combiner of all that is in woman to perfection. - -In reference to this sentiment, her manners must bear due affinity -with her figure, and her deportment with her rank. The youthful and -delicate-shaped girl is allowed a gaiety of air which would ill become -a women of maturer years and larger proportions; but at all times of -life, when the figure is slender, a swan-like neck, and the motions -are naturally swaying, for that girl, or that woman, to affect what -is called a majestic air, would be as unavailing as absurd. It is -not in the power of a figure so constructed ever to look majestic. -By stiffening her joints, walking with an erect mien, and drawing up -her neck, she would certainly be upright; she would seem to have had -a determined dancing-master, who, in spite of nature and grace, had -made her _hold up her head_; but she would never look like anything -but a stiff, inelegant creature. The character of these slight forms -corresponds with their resemblances in the vegetable world: the -aspen, the willow, bend their gentle heads at every passing breeze, -and their flexible and tender arms toss in the wind with grace and -beauty: such is the woman of delicate proportions. She must enter a -room either with the buoyant step of a young nymph, if youth is her -passport to sportiveness; or, if she is advanced nearer the meridian -of life, she then may glide in, with that ease of manner which gives -play to all the graceful motions of her elegantly undulating form. For -her to crane up her neck, would be to change its fine swan-like bend -into the scraggy throat of the ostrich: all her movements should be of -a flexible character. Her mode of salutation should be rather a bow -than a courtesy; and when she sits, she should model her easy attitude -rather by the ideas of the painter, when he would pourtray a reclining -nymph, than according to the lessons of the grace-destroying governess, -who would marshal her pupils on their chairs like a rank of drilled -recruits. In short, for a slender or thin woman, to be stiff at any -time, is, in the first case, to render of no effect the advantages of -nature; and, in the next, to increase and aggravate her defects, by -making it more conspicuous by a constrained and ridiculous carriage. - -Though we cannot unite the majestic air which declares command with -this easy, nymph-like deportment, the dignity of modesty may be its -inseparable companion. The timid, the retreating step; the downcast -eye; the varying complexion, “blushing at the deep regard she draws!” -all these belong to this class of females; and they are charms so -truly feminine, so exquisitely lovely, that I cannot but place them -with their counterpart, the ethereal form, as the perfection of female -beauty. - -The woman whose figure bears nature’s own stamp of majesty, is -generally of a stately make; her person is squarer, and has more of -_embonpoint_ than the foregoing. The very muscles of her neck are so -formed as to show their adaptation to an erect posture. There is a -sort of loftiness in the natural movement of her head, in the high -swell of her expansive bosom. The step of this woman should be grave -and firm: her motions few and commanding; and the carriage of her -head and person erect and steady. An excess in stateliness could not -have any worse effect on her, than perverting the majesty of nature -into the haughtiness of art. We might admire or revere the first; the -last we would probably resent and detest. The dignified beauty must -therefore beware of overstraining the natural bent of her character: it -is like the bombast of exalted language which never fails to lose its -aim, and engender disgust. We might laugh at a delicate girl, so far -exaggerating the pliancy of her form and ease of manners, as to twist -herself into the thousand antics of a Columbine: she aims at pleasing -us, and though she chooses the wrong method, we will not frown, but -only smile at the ridiculous exhibition. But when a majestic fair one -presumes to arrogate an undue consequence in her air, it is not to -gratify our senses that she assumes the extraordinary diadem: and, -irritated at the contempt her greatness would wish to throw upon us -inferior personages, we treat her like an usurper; and, armed with a -sense of injustice, we determine to pull her at once from her throne. - -The easy, graceful air, we see, belongs exclusively to the slender -beauty, and the moderated majestic mien to a greater _embonpoint_. - -There is a race of women whose persons have no determined character. -These must regulate and adopt their demeanors according to the degrees -in which they approach the two before-mentioned classes. But in all -cases, let it never be forgotten, that a too faint copy of a model is -better than an overcharged one. Excess is always bad. Moderation never -offends. By falling easily into the degree of undulating grace, or the -dignified demeanor which suits your character, you merely put on the -robe which nature designed, and the habit will be fit and becoming. - -But when the nymph-like form assumes a regal port, or a commanding -dame pretends to “skip and play,” the affectation on both sides is -equally absurd: discords of this kind are ever ridiculous and odious. -Besides these, there are affectations of other descriptions, of equal -folly and bad effect. Some ladies, to whom nature has given a good -sight, and lovely orbs to look through, must needs pretend a kind -of half-blindness, and they go peeping about through an eye-glass, -dangling at the end of a long gold chain, hanging at their necks. Not -content with this affectation of one defect, they assume another, and -lisp so inarticulately, that hardly three words in a sentence are -intelligible. All such follies as these are not more a death-blow to -all respect for the novice that plays them off, than they are sure -antidotes to any charms she may possess. Simplicity is the perfection -of form; simplicity is the perfection of fine dressing; simplicity is -the perfection of air and manners. - -In the details of carriage, we must not omit a due attention to gait, -and its accompanying air. We find that it was “by her _graceful walk_ -the Queen of Love was known!” In this particular, the French women far -exceed us. Pope observes, that “they move easiest who have learnt to -_dance_.” And it is the step of the highly-accomplished dancer that we -see in the generality of well-bred Frenchwomen; not the march of the -military sergeant, which is the usual study with our pedestrian Graces. -There is a buoyant lightness, a dignified ease in the walk of a lady, -who has been taught the use of her limbs by a fine dancer, which is -never seen in her who has been drilled by the halbert, and told to -_stand at ease_ with her hands resting on her stomach, as if reposing -on the trigger of her fire-lock. Such a way as we have fallen upon -to teach our daughters the _graceful step of the Queen of Love_, is, -indeed, so singular, that until another race of Amazons arise, to whom -military tactics may be useful, we have no chance of any imitators. -Indeed, the marching walk of Englishwomen is so ridiculous, even in the -eyes of their own countrymen, that I remember of being one day in St. -James’s Park, with one of these female recruits, when a sentinel, with -a humorous gravity, struck his musket to her as she passed. - -Both in the case of air and gait, it is necessary to begin early -to train the person and the limbs to the ease and grace you wish. -It is difficult to straighten the stem long left to diverge into -irregular wildness; but the tender tree, pliant in youth, needs only -the directing hand of a careful gardener to train it to symmetry and -luxuriance. - -Many of the naturally most pleasing parts of the female shape have -I seen assume an appearance absolutely disgusting; and all form an -_outre_ air, vulgar manners, or hoydening postures. The bosom, which -should be prominent, by a lounging attitude, sinks into slovenly -flatness, rounding the back, and projecting the shoulders! On the one -side, I have seen a finely-proportioned figure transform herself -into a perfect fright by this awkward neglect of all propriety and -grace; and, on the other, I am acquainted with a lady, whose beauty, -taken in the common acceptation of the word, would not obtain her a -second look, but in the elegance of her manners, in the dignity of -her carriage, in the taste and disposition of her attire, and in the -thousand inexpressible charms which distinguish the gentlewoman, she is -so powerful that none can behold her without captivation. - -A late author, in a work entitled, “Remarks on the English and French -Ladies,” very ably points out the superior attention which the women -of France pay to the cultivation of their air and manners; and he -proceeds, with no inconsiderable degree of eloquence, to exhort the -British fair not to lose, by a careless neglect, the advantages which -nature has given them over the _belles_ of _la grande nation_. - -“It must not be dissembled,” says this writer, “that our much fairer -countrywomen (the English) are too often apt to forget that native -charms may receive considerable improvement by attending to the -regulation of carriage and motion. They ought to be reminded, that -it is chiefly by an attention of this kind, that the Frenchwomen, -though unable to rival them in such exterior perfections as are the -gift of nature, attain, however, to a degree of eminence in other -accomplishments, that effaces the recollection of their inferiority -in personal charms.” He proceeds to observe, that “the gracefulness of -a French lady’s step is always a subject of high commendation in the -mouth even of Frenchmen;” and again he says, “conscious where their -advantage lies, they spare no pains to improve that grace of manner, -that fund of vivacity, which are in their nature so agreeable, and -which they know so well how to manage to the best effect.” - -My intimacy with the French manners makes me quote these short extracts -with greater pleasure; and as I bear witness to the truth of their -evidence, I hope that an amiable ambition will unite in the breasts -of the British fair, to rise as much superior to their French rivals -in all feminine graces, as our British heroes are to the French on -the seas! We shall then see cultivated understandings, unaffected -cheerfulness, and manners of an enchantment not to be exceeded by the -fairest sorceresses in beauty and grace. - -_Sorceresses_ I would make you, my gentle friends; but your spells -should be those of nature and of virtue. While I exhort you to preserve -your persons in comeliness, to array yourselves in elegance and sweet -attractive grace, I would not lead you to believe, that these are -all your charms; that these are sufficient “to take the captive soul -of love, and lap it in Elysium!” No; woman was created for higher -attainments; many a heart was formed to pant for dearer joys than -these can produce. Woman must, in every respect, and at all times, -regard her form as a secondary object; her mind is the point of her -first attention; it is the strength of her power; the part that links -her with angels; and, as such, she must respect, cultivate, and exalt -it. - -But as these familiar pages are expressly intended as a little treatise -on _the dress_ of these admirable qualities, I do not suppose it -demanded of me to enter so minutely into the subject of mind, as I -otherwise should have esteemed it my duty. We have before admitted, -that while on this earth wandering amongst the erring and voluptuous -sons of men, virtue must be clad in an attractive garb, else few -will love her for herself. To this end, then, like Solon of Athens, -I give the best directions the inmates of this gay world are capable -of receiving--though, perhaps, not the best I could lay down. I would -win the too earth-clinging soul by his senses, to give up his sensual -enjoyments, and, caught by earthly charms, see and feel his connexion, -and leaving the grosser part, aspire to mingle being with those alone -which partake of immortality. - -It is not by the showy attire of meretricious splendor, by the -seductive air of Sybaritical refinement, that I would effect this. “It -is good that virtue keep ever with its like!” my means should ever be -consistent with their object. So, with me, beauty, elegance, and grace, -should be the only pleaders for the empire of morals and religion. On -these principles, as I am aware that the most estimable and amiable -qualities adorn the wives and daughters of our isle, I cannot but be -the more solicitous that their outward deportment and appearance should -exhibit a fair specimen of their inward worth. - -“An upright heart, and sensibility of soul, are doubtlessly the most -noble qualifications of the fair sex. These, Englishwomen possess in -an eminent degree. But there are lighter, and perhaps more catching -attractions, which, though they will not bear a competition, are -nevertheless great smoothers of the rough passages of life, and very -necessary conducives to social happiness.” - -It is the opinion of wiser heads than mine, that no circumstance, -however trifling in itself, should be neglected, which strengthens -the bonds of an honorable and mutual attachment; and so great is the -privilege allowed for this purpose, that it is deemed laudable in woman -to collect into herself all the innocent advantages, mentally and -corporeally, which may render her most admirable and precious in the -eyes of him who may be, or is, her husband. - -This latter sentiment reminds me to impress upon my young friend, that -there are shades of demeanor which must be varied according to the -sex, degree, and affinity of the persons with whom she converses. To -men of all ranks and relations, she must ever hold a reserve on certain -subjects, and indeed on almost every occasion, that she does not deem -necessary to observe with regard to her own sex. To inferiors of both -sexes she must ever preserve a gracious condescension; but to the men a -certain air of majesty must be mixed with it, that she need not assume -to the women. To her equals, particularly of the male sex, her manners -must never lose sight of a dignity sufficient to remind them that she -expects respect will be joined with probable intimacy. In short, no -intimacy should ever be so familiar as to allow of any infringement -on the decent reserves which are the only preservers of refinement in -friendship and love. What are called _cronies_ amongst girls, are among -the worst of connexions, as they generally are the very hotbeds of -fancified love-fits, secrecies, and really vulgar tale-bearing. - - “Celestial friendship! - Whene’er she stoops to visit earth, one shrine - The goddess finds, and one alone, - To make her sweet amends for absent Heaven,-- - The bosom of a friend, where heart meets heart, - Reciprocally soft-- - Each other’s pillow to repose divine!” - -This friendship is indeed the gift of Heaven--a boon more precious than -much fine gold; but it is not usually to be found in school _cronies_, -or in the confidence of misses, whose unbosomings usually consist of -flirtations, complaints against parents and guardians, and schemes -for future parties of pleasure. Friendship is too sacred for these -pretenders; under her influence, “heart meets heart,” and acknowledges -her as the pledge of Heaven to man, of immortality, and endless joys. -To such an intimate your whole soul may be laid open. But such an -intimate is rare. You may meet her once in the shape of a female -friend, and in that of a tender husband! But believe not that her -appearance will be more frequent. Hers are “like angels’ visits, few -and far between!” Earth would be too much like heaven were it otherwise. - -To the generality, then, of your equals, while you are affable and -amiable with them all, you must be intimate with few, and preserve an -ingenuous reserve with most. Show them your sense of propriety demands -a certain distance, and with redoubled respect they will yield what you -require. With men of your acquaintance, you ought to be more reserved -than with women. But while I counsel such dignity of manners, you -must not suppose that I mean starchness, stiffness, prudery; I only -recommend the modesty of the virgin--the sober dignity of matron years. - -The present familiarity between the sexes is both shocking to -delicacy, and to the interests of women. Woman is now treated by the -generality of men with a freedom that levels her with the commonest -and most vulgar objects of their amusements. She is addressed as -unceremoniously, treated as cavalierly, and left as abruptly, as the -veriest puppet they could pick up at a Bartholomew Fair. - -We no longer see the respectful bow, the look of polite attention, when -a gentleman approaches a lady. He runs up to her; he seizes her by the -hand, shakes it roughly, asks a few questions, and, to show that he has -no interest in her answers, flies off again before she can make a reply. - -To cure our coxcombs of this conceited impertinence, I would strongly -exhort my young and lovely readers. When any man, who is not privileged -by the right of friendship or of kindred, to address her with an air of -affection, attempts to take her hand, let her withdraw it immediately, -with an air so declarative of displeasure, that he shall not presume -to repeat the offence. At no time ought she to volunteer shaking hands -with a male acquaintance, who holds not any particular bond of esteem -with regard to herself or family. A touch, a pressure of the hands, are -the only external signs a woman can give of entertaining a particular -regard for certain individuals; and to lavish this valuable power of -expression upon all comers, upon the impudent and contemptible, is an -indelicate extravagance which, I hope, needs only to be exposed to be -put forever out of countenance. - -As to the salute, the pressure of the lips--that is an interchange -of affectionate greeting, or tender farewell, sacred to the dearest -connexions alone. Our parents--our brothers--our near kindred--our -husband--our lover, ready to become our husband,--our bosom’s inmate, -the friend of _our heart’s core_--to them are exclusively consecrated -the lips of delicacy, and wo be to her who yields them to the stain of -profanation! - -By the last word, I do not mean the embrace of vice, but merely that -indiscriminate facility which some young women have in permitting what -they call a _good-natured kiss_. These _good-natured kisses_ have often -very bad effects, and can never be permitted without injuring the fine -gloss of that exquisite modesty, which is the fairest garb of virgin -beauty. - -I remember the Count M----, one of the most accomplished and handsomest -young men in Vienna. When I was there, he was passionately in love with -a girl of almost peerless beauty. She was the daughter of a man of -great rank and influence at court; and on these considerations, as well -as in regard to her charms, she was followed by a multitude of suitors. -She was lively and amiable, and treated them all with an affability -which still kept them in her train, although it was generally known -that she had avowed a predilection for Count M. and that preparations -were making for their nuptials. The Count was of a refined mind and -delicate sensibility. He loved her for herself alone--for the virtues -which he believed dwelt in a beautiful form; and, like a lover of such -perfections, he never approached her without timidity, and when he -touched her, a fire shot through his veins that warned him never to -invade the vermilion sanctuary of her lips. Such were the feelings, -when one night at his intended father-in-law’s, a party of young people -were met to celebrate a certain festival. Several of the young lady’s -rejected suitors were present. Forfeits were one of the pastimes, and -all went on with the greatest merriment, till the Count was commanded -by some witty mademoiselle to redeem his glove by saluting the cheek -of his intended bride. The Count blushed, trembled, advanced to his -mistress, retreated, advanced again--and at last, with a tremor that -shook every fibre in his frame, with a modest grace he put the soft -ringlet which played upon her cheek to his lips, and retired to demand -his redeemed pledge in evident confusion. His mistress gaily smiled, -and the game went on. One of her rejected suitors, but who was of a -merry unthinking disposition, was adjudged, by the same indiscreet -crier of the forfeits,--“as his last treat before he hanged himself,” -she said,--to snatch a kiss from the lips of the object of his recent -vows-- - - “Lips whose broken sighs such fragrance fling, - As Love had fanned them freshly with his wing!” - -A lively contest between the lady and the gentleman lasted for a -minute; but the lady yielded, though in the midst of a convulsive -laugh. And the Count had the mortification, the agony, to see the lips, -which his passionate and delicate love would not allow him to touch, -kissed with roughness and repetition by another man, and one whom he -despised. Without a word, he rose from his chair, left the room--and -the house; and, by that _good-natured kiss_, the fair boast of Vienna -lost her husband and her lover. The Count never saw her more. - - - - - ON THE MANAGEMENT OF THE PERSON IN DANCING, AND IN THE EXERCISE OF - OTHER FEMALE ACCOMPLISHMENTS. - - On with the dance! let joy be unconfined. - - _Childe Harold._ - - -It is vain to expend large sums of money and large portions of time in -the acquirement of accomplishments, unless some attention be also paid -to the attainment of a certain grace in their exercise, which though a -circumstance distinct from themselves, is the secret of their charms -and pleasure-exciting quality. - -As dancing is the accomplishment most calculated to display a fine -form, elegant taste, and graceful carriage, to advantage; so towards -it, our regards must be particularly turned; and we shall find that -when Beauty, in all her power, is to be set forth, she cannot choose a -more effective exhibition. - -By the _exhibition_, it must not be understood that I mean to -insinuate anything like that scenic exhibition which we may expect -from professors of the art, who often, regardless of modesty, not only -display the symmetry of their persons, but indelicately expose them, -by most improper dresses and attitudes, on the public stage. What I -propose by calling dancing an elegant mode of showing a fine form to -advantage, has nothing more in it, than to teach the lovely young woman -to move unembarrassed and with peculiar grace through the mazes of a -dance, performed either in a private circle, or public ball. - -It must always be remembered, and it cannot be too often repeated, -“That whatever it is worth while to do, it is worth while to do -_well_.” Therefore, as all times and nations have deemed dancing a -salubrious, decorous, and beautiful exercise, or rather happy pastime -and celebration of festivity, I cannot but regard it with particular -complacency. Dancing carries with it a banquet, alike for taste and -feeling. The spectator of a well-ordered English ball sees, at one -view, in a number of elegant young women, every species of female -loveliness. He beholds the perfection of personal proportion. They -are attired with all the gay habiliments of fashion and of fancy; and -their harmonious and agile movements unfold to him, at every turn, the -ever-varying, ever-charming grace of motion. - -Thus far his senses only are gratified. But the pleasure stops not -there. His best feelings receive their share also. He looks on each -gay countenance, he sees hilarity in every step; he listens to their -delightful converse, communicated by snatches; and, with a pleasure -sympathizing with theirs, he cannot but acknowledge that dancing is -one of the most innocent and rational, as well as the most elegant, -amusements of youth. - -It is indeed the favorite pastime of nature. We find it in courts, we -meet it on the village green. Here the rustic swain whispers his ardent -suit to his blushing maid, while his beating heart bounds against hers -in the swift wheel of the rapid dance. There the polished courtier -breathes a soft sigh into the ear of the lady of his vows, as he and -she timidly entwine their arms in the graceful _allemande_. But dancing -has been appropriated to higher purposes than these; it formed a part -of the religious ceremonies of the Jews. - -In every age of fashion but the present, dancing was as much expected -from young persons of both sexes, as that they should join in smiles -when mutually pleased. In days of yore, in the most polite eras of -Greece and Rome, and of the chivalrous ages, we find that dancing was -a favorite amusement with the first ranks of men. Kings, heroes, and -unbearded youth, alike mingled in the graceful exercise. Even in our -own island, we read of the splendid balls given by our Plantagenets and -Tudors; and that every prince and nobleman contended in happy rivalry -who should best acquit themselves in the dance. Here it was that the -royal Harry lost his heart to the lovely Anna Bullen, and in such -scenes did the gallant lords of his virgin daughter’s court breathe out -their souls at the feet of British beauty. - -Such _was_ the court of England! but now, where is “the merry dance, -the mirth-awakening viol?” In vain our princes led forth their royal -sisters and the fairest ladies in the land to celebrate, with festive -steps, the birth-day; our noble youth, smit with a love of grave folly, -abandon the ball for the gaming-table. The elegant society of the fair -is disregarded and exchanged for fellowship with grooms and masters -of the whip. Shame on them! I cannot descant farther on such vulgar -desertion of all that is lovely and decorous. - -Besides the royal brothers, a few yet remain amongst the young men of -our higher ranks, who, in this respect, set a worthy example to the -youth of inferior stations; and them we still meet at the assemblies of -taste, moving with propriety and elegance in the social dance. To make -acceptable partners in the minuet, cotillon, &c. with these yet loyal -votaries of Terpsichore, I beg leave to offer a few hints to my gentle -readers. - -Extraordinary as it may seem, at a period when dancing is so entirely -neglected by men in general, women appear to be taking the most pains -to acquire the art. Our female youth are now not satisfied with what -used to be considered _a good dancing-master_; that is, one who made -teaching his sole profession; but now our girls must be taught by the -leading dancers at the opera-house. - -The consequence is, when a young lady rises to dance, we no longer see -the graceful, easy step of the gentlewoman, but the labored, and often -indelicate exhibition of the posture-mistress.--Dances from _ballets_ -are introduced; and instead of the jocund and beautifully-organized -movements of hilarity in concord, we are shocked by the most -extravagant theatrical imitations. The chaste minuet is banished; and, -in place of dignity and grace, we behold strange wheelings on one leg, -stretching out the other till our eye meets the garter; and a variety -of endless contortions, fitter for the zenana of an Eastern satrap, -or the gardens of Mahomet, than the ball-room of an Englishwoman of -quality and virtue. - -These _ballet_ dances are, we now see, generally attempted. I may say -_attempted_, for not one young woman in five hundred, can, from the -very nature of the thing, after all her study, perform them better than -could be done any day by the commonest _figurante_ on the stage. We all -know, that to be a fine opera-dancer, requires unremitting practice, -and a certain disciplining of the limbs, which hardly any private -gentlewoman would consent to undergo. Hence, ladies can never hope to -arrive at any comparison with even the poorest public professor of the -art; and therefore, to attempt the extravagancies of it, is as absurd -as it is indelicate. - -The utmost in dancing to which a gentlewoman ought to aspire, is an -agile and graceful movement of her feet, an harmonious motion with her -arms, and a corresponding easy carriage of her whole body. But, when -she has gained this proficiency, should she find herself so unusually -mistress of the art as to be able, in any way, to rival the professors -by whom she has been taught, she must ever hold in mind, that _the same -style of dancing is not equally proper for all kinds of dances_. - -For instance, the English country-dance and the French cotillon require -totally different movements. I know that it is a common thing to -introduce all the varieties of opera-steps into the simple figure of -the former. This ill-judged fashion is inconsistent with the character -of the dance, and consequently so destroys the effect, that no pleasure -is produced to the eye of the judicious spectator by so discordant -an exhibition. The characteristic of an English country-dance is -that of _gay simplicity_. The steps should be few and easy, and the -corresponding motion of the arms and body unaffected, modest, and -graceful. - -Before I go further on the subject, I cannot but stop a little to dwell -more particularly on the necessity there is for more attention than we -usually find paid to the management of the arms, and general person, in -dancing. - -In looking on at a ball, perhaps you will see that every woman, in a -dance of twenty couple, moves her feet with sufficient attention to -beauty and elegance; but, with regard to the deportment, of the rest -of the person, most likely you will not discover one in a hundred who -seems to know more about it than the most uncultivated damsel that ever -jogged at a village wake. - -I cannot exactly describe what it is that we see in the carriage of -our young ladies in the dance; for it is difficult to point out a want -by any other expression than a negative. But it is only requisite for -my readers to recall to memory the many inanimate, ungraceful forms, -from the waist upwards, that they nightly see at balls, and I need not -describe more circumstantially. - -For these ladies to suppose that they are fine dancers because they -execute a variety of difficult steps with ease and precision, is a -great mistake. The motion of the feet is but half the art of dancing; -the other, and indeed the most conspicuous part, lies in the movement -of the body, arms, and head. Here elegance must be conspicuous. - -The body should always be poised with such ease as to command a power -of graceful undulation, in harmony with the motion of the limbs in the -dance. Nothing is more ugly than a stiff body and neck during this -lively exercise. The general carriage should be elevated and light; -the chest thrown out, the head easily erect, but flexible to move -with every turn of the figure; and the limbs should be all braced and -animated with the spirit of motion, which seems ready to bound through -the very air. By this elasticity pervading the whole person when the -dancer moves off, her flexible shape will gracefully sway with the -varied steps of her feet; and her arms, instead of hanging loosely by -her side, or rising abruptly and squarely up to take hands with her -partner, will be raised in beautiful and harmonious unison and time -with the music and the figure; and her whole person will thus exhibit -to the delighted eye perfection in beauty, grace, and motion. - -This attention to the movement of the general figure, and particularly -to that of the arms (for with them is the charm of elegant action,) -though, in a moderated degree, is equally applicable to the English -country dance and the Scotch reel, as to the minuet, the cotillon, and -other French dances. - -A general idea of natural grace, in all dances, being laid down as a -first principle in this elegant art, I shall suggest a few remarks on -the leading characters of each style; and from them, I hope, my fair -friends will be able to gather some rules which may serve them as -useful auxiliaries to the lessons of their dancing-master. - -The English country-dance, as its very name implies, consists of -simplicity and cheerfulness; hence the female who engages in it, must -aim at nothing more, in treading its easy mazes, than executing a few -simple steps with unaffected elegance. Her body, her arms, the turn of -her head, the expression of her countenance, all must bear the same -character of negligent grace, of elegant activity, of decorous gaiety. - -The Scotch reel has steps appropriated to itself, and in the dance -can never be displaced for those of France, without an absurdity too -ridiculous even to imagine without laughing. There are no dancers -in the world more expressive of inward hilarity and happiness than -the Scotch are, when performing in their own reels. The music is -sufficient--so jocund are its sounds--to set a whole company on their -feet in a moment, and to dance with all their might, till it ceases, -like people bit by the tarantula. Hence, as the character of reels is -merriment, they must be performed with much more _joyance_ of manner -than even the country-dance; and, therefore, they are better adapted, -as society is now constituted, to the social private circle, than to -the public ball. They demand a frankness of deportment, an undisguised -jocularity, which few large parties will properly admit; therefore, -they are more at home in the baronial and kindred-filled hall of the -thane of the Highland clan, than in the splendid and mixed ball-room of -the now modish Anglo-Scottish earl. - -French dances, which includes minuets, cotillons, and all the round of -_ballet_ figures, admit of every new refinement and dexterity in the -agile art; and, while exhibiting in them, there is no step, no turn, -no attitude, within the verge of maiden delicacy, that the dancer may -not adopt and practise. - -I must acknowledge that there is something in the harmonious and -undulating movements of the minuet, particularly pleasing to my idea -of female grace and dignity; and I remember seeing her Highness the -Princess de P----, at the court of Naples, go through the _minuet de la -Cour_ with so eminent a degree of enchanting elegance, that there was -not a person present who was not in raptures with her deportment. - -The young Archduke, C----, of A----, was then a youth, and an incognito -visitant with the Prince de V---- F----, and he was so charmed with -the dancing of her highness, whose partner was the renowned General -Marchese di M----, that, in his own heroic manner, he exclaimed to me, -who then sat by his side,--“Ah! madam, that is more interesting than -even the Pyrrhic dance! It reminds me of the beautiful movement of the -sun and moon in the heavens!” - -The _minuet_ is now almost out of fashion, but we yet have its serious -movements in many of the dances adopted from the French _ballet_; and -in these every gradation of grace, and, if I may say it, sentiment -in action, may be discovered. The rapid changes of the cotillon -are admirably calculated for the display of elegant gaiety; and I -hope that their animated evolvements will long continue a favorite -accomplishment and amusement with our youthful fair. - -Though much of graceful display is made in these dances, yet there are -many rivals in the cotillon contending for the palm of superiority; -and the contest, throughout, if maintained with the original elegant -decorum of the design, may be continued with undeviating modesty and -discretion. - -But with regard to the lately introduced German waltz, I cannot speak -so favorably; I must agree with Goethé, when writing of the national -dance of his country, “that none but husbands and wives can with any -propriety be partners in the waltz.” - -There is something in the close approximation of persons, in the -attitudes, and in the motion, which ill agrees with the delicacy of -woman, should she be placed in such a situation with any other man than -the most intimate connexion she can have in life. Indeed, I have often -heard men, of no very over-strained feeling, say, “that there are very -few women in the world with whom they could bear to dance the German -waltz.” - -The fandango, though graceful in its own country--because danced, -from custom, with as reserved a mind as our maidens would make -a courtsy,--is, nevertheless, when attempted here, too great a -display of the person for any modest Englishwoman to venture. It -is a solo! Imagine what must be the assurance of the young woman, -who, unaccustomed by the habits of her country to such singular -exhibitions of herself, could get up in a room full of company, and, -with an unblushing face, go through all the evolutions, postures, and -vaultings, of the Spanish fandango? Certainly, there are few discreet -men in England who would say, “such a woman I should like for my wife!” - -The castanets, which are used in this dance, by attracting -extraordinary attention, afford another argument against its being -adopted anywhere but on the stage. The tambourin, the cymbals, and all -other noisy accompaniments, in the hands of a lady-dancer, are equally -blameable; and though a woman may, by their means, exhibit her agility -and person to advantage, she may depend on it, that while the artist -only is admired, the woman will sink into contempt; and that, though -she may possibly meet with lovers to throw a score of embroidered -handkerchiefs at her feet, she will hardly encounter one of a thousand -who will venture to trust himself to the offering her the bond of a -single gold ring. - -The bullero, another of our Spanish importations, is a dance of so -questionable a description, that I cannot but proscribe it also. It may -be performed with perfect modesty; but the sentiment of it depends so -entirely on the disposition of the dancer, that Delicacy dare hardly -venture to enrol herself in its lists, lest the partner chosen for her -might be of a temper to turn its gaiety into licentiousness; to produce -blushes of shame where she promised herself the glow of pleasure, and -send her away from what ought to have been an innocent amusement, -filled with the bitterness of insulted delicacy. - -In short, in addressing my fair countrywomen on this subject, I would -sum up my advice, in regard to the choice of dances, by warning -them against the introduction of new-fangled fashions of this sort. -Let them leave the languishing and meretricious attitudes of modern -_ballet_-teachers to the dancing-girls of India, or to the Circassian -slaves of Turkey, whose disgraceful business is to please a tyrant for -whom they can feel no love. - -Let our British fair also turn away from the almost equally unchaste -dances of the southern kingdoms of the continent, and, content with -the gay step of France, and the active merriment of Scotland, with -their own festive movements, continue their native country balls to -their blameless delight, and to the gratification of every tasteful and -benevolent observer. - -While thus remarking on the manner of dancing, it may not be -unacceptable to add a few words on the dress most appropriate to its -light and unembarrassed motions. - -Long trains are, of course, too cumbrous an appendage to be -intentionally assumed when proposing to dance; but it must also be -remarked, that very short petticoats are as inelegant as the others -are inconvenient. Scanty circumscribed habiliments impede the action -of the limbs, and, besides their indelicacy, show the leg in the least -graceful of all possible points of view. The most elegant attire for -a ball is, that the under garments should be absolutely short, but -the upper one, which should be of light material, should reach at -least to the top of the instep. It should also be sufficiently full -to fall easily in folds from the waist downwards to the foot. By this -arrangement, when the dancer begins her graceful exercise, the drapery -will elegantly adapt itself to the motion and contour of her limbs; and -falling accidentally on her foot, or as accidentally when she bounds -along, discovering, under its flying folds, her beautifully-turned -ankle. Symmetry and grace will be occasionally displayed, almost -unconsciously, and thus Modesty, taken unawares, will adorn, with -blushes, the perfect lineaments of female beauty. - -What has been said in behalf of simple and appropriate dancing, may -also be whispered in the ear of the fair practitioner in music; and, by -analogy she may, not unbeneficially, apply the suggestions to her own -case. - -There are many young women, who, when they sit down to the piano or -the harp, or to sing, twist themselves into so many contortions, and -writhe their bodies and faces about into such actions and grimaces, -as would almost incline one to believe that they are suffering under -the torture of the toothach, or the gout. Their bosoms heave, their -shoulders shrug, their heads swing to the right and left, their lips -quiver, their eyes roll; they sigh, they pant, they seem ready to -expire! And what is all this about? They are merely playing a favorite -concerto, or singing a new Italian song. - -If it were possible for these conceit-intoxicated warblers, these -languishing dolls, to guess what rational spectators say of their -follies, they would be ready to break their instruments and be dumb -forever. What they call _expression in singing_, at the rate they would -show it, is only fit to be exhibited on the stage, when the character -of the song intends to portray the utmost ecstasy of passion to a -sighing swain. In short, such an echo to the words and music of a love -ditty, is very improper in any young woman who would wish to be thought -as pure in heart as in person. If amatory addresses are to be sung, let -the expression be in the voice and the composition of the air, not in -the looks and gestures of the lady-singing. The utmost that she ought -to allow herself to do, when thus breathing out the accents of love, is -to wear a serious, tender countenance. More than this is bad, and may -produce reflections in the minds of the hearers very inimical to the -reputation of the fair warbler. - -While touching on song, it may not be unwelcome to my truly virgin -readers to have their own delicate rejections sanctioned by a matron’s -judgment against a horde of amorous legends, now chanted forth in -almost every assembly, where they put their heads. Pretty music, and -elegant poetry, seem sufficient excuses to obtain, in these days, not -only pardon, but approbation, for the most exceptionable verses that -can fall from the pen of man. Such madrigals are now sung with equal -applause by mother and daughter, chaste and unchaste; all unite in -shamelessly breathing forth words, (and with appropriate languishments -too,) which hardly would become the lips of a Thais! Libertines may -feel pleasure in such exhibitions--men of principle must turn away -disgusted. - -Set then this music of Paphos far aside; instead of songs of wantons, -if we are to have amatory odes, let us listen to the chaste pleadings -of a Petrarch, to the mutual vows of virtuous attachment. My young -friend may then sing with downcast eyes and timid voice, but no blush -needs to stain her cheek--no thrill of shame shake her bosom. She -merely chants of nature’s feelings; and Modesty veiling the sensibility -she describes, angels might “lean from heaven to hear.” - -By this slight sketch, my dear readers will perceive that I mean -_simplicity_ to be the principle and the decoration of all their -actions; as it should pervade them in the dance, so it should imbue -their voice and action in playing and in singing. - -Let their attitude at the piano or the harp be easy and graceful. I -strongly exhort them to avoid a stiff, awkward, elbowing position at -either; they must observe an elegant flow of figure at both. The latter -certainly admits of most grace, as the shape of the instrument is -calculated, in every respect, to show a fine figure to advantage. The -contour of the whole form, the turn and polish of a beautiful hand and -arm, the richly-slippered and well-made foot on the pedal stops, the -gentle motion of a lovely neck, and, above all, the sweetly-tempered -expression of an intelligent countenance; these are shown at one glance -when the fair performer is seated unaffectedly, yet gracefully, at the -harp. - -Similar beauty of position may be seen in a lady’s management of a -lute, a guitar, a mandolin, or a lyre. The attitude at a pianoforte, -or at a harpsichord, is not so happily adapted to grace. From the -shape of the instrument, the performer must sit directly in front of a -straight line of keys; and her own posture being correspondingly erect -and square, it is hardly possible that it should not appear rather -inelegant. But if it attain not the _ne plus ultra_ of grace, at least -she may prevent an air of stiffness; she may move her hands easily -on the keys, and bear her head with that elegance of carriage which -cannot fail to impart its own character to the whole of her figure. -One of the most graceful forms that I ever saw sit at an instrument, -is that of St. Cecilia, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds, playing on -the organ. It is the portrait of the late Mrs. R. B. Sheridan; and, -from the simplicity of the attitude, and the graceful elevation of the -head, it is, without exception, one of the most interesting pictures I -ever beheld. A living instance of what beauty and grace, elegance and -propriety combined, can do, has always been admired in the Marchioness -of D---- by all those who ever had the felicity to see and hear her -at the piano; an engraving of her portrait, in that attitude, would -teach every female lover of the art unaffected elegance, much more -effectually than all that the advices and ability of masters can ever -be able to perform. - -If ladies, in meditating on grace of deportment, would rather consult -the statues of fine sculptors, and the figures of excellent painters, -than the lessons of their dancing-masters, or the dictates of their -looking-glasses, we should, doubtless, see simplicity where we now -find affectation, and a thousand ineffable graces taking place of the -present _régime_ of absurdity and conceit. - -It was by studying the perfect sculpture of Greece and Rome, that a -certain lady of rank, eminent for her peculiarly beautiful attitudes, -acquired so great a superiority in mien above her fair contemporaries -of every court in which she became an inmate. It was by meditating on -the classic pictures of Poussin, that one of the first tragic actresses -on the French stage learnt to move and look like the _daughter of the -sun_. And by a similar study, has our own Melpomene caught inspiration -from the pencil of Corregio and Rubens. - -Glancing at the graphic art, reminds me that some degree of proficiency -in this interesting accomplishment is also an object of study with my -fair young countrywomen. I shall not make any observation on their -progress in the art itself, but only with regard to their manner of -practising it. - -Both for health and beauty’s sake, they should be careful not to stoop -too much, or to sit too long in the exercise of the pencil. A bending -position of the chest and head, when frequently assumed, is apt to -contract the lungs, round the back, redden the face, and give painful -digestions and headach. An awkward posture in writing, reading, or -sewing, is productive of the same bad effects; and, what may seem -almost incredible, (but many who have witnessed the same, can, I am -sure, give their evidence in support of my representation,) there are -young persons, who, when writing, drawing, reading, or working, keep a -sort of ludicrous time with their occupations, by making a succession -of unmeaning and hideous grimaces. I have seen a pretty young woman, -while writing a letter to her lover, draw up her lips, and twist the -muscles of her face in every direction that her pen moved; and so ugly -did she look during this sympathetic performance, that I could not -forbear thinking that, could her swain see the object then dictating -her vows, he would take fright at the metamorphosis, and never be made -to believe it could be the same person. - -Mumbling to yourself, while reading, is also another very inelegant -habit. A person should either read determinately so much aloud as to -be heard distinctly by the company present, or peruse her book without -even moving her lips. An inward muttering, or a silent motion of the -mouth, while reading, is equally unpleasant to the observer, and -disfiguring to the observed. - -In short, there is nothing, however minute in manners, however -insignificant in appearance, that does not demand some portion of -attention from a well-bred and highly-polished young woman. An author -of no small literary renown, has observed, that several of the minutest -habits or acts of some individuals, may give sufficient reasons to -guess at their temper. The choice of a gown, or even the folding -and sealing of a letter, will bespeak the shrew and the scold, the -careless and the negligent. This observation I have made myself, not -only in this, but in several other countries. The Marchioness of B---- -addressed me, a few years ago, in a letter so cleanly folded, so -carefully sealed, that I was really prejudiced in her favor, ere I saw -that my surmises were right; and the flame-color ribbon, fluttering -about the Hon. Mrs. D.’s head, had given me a foreboding of her -acrimonious and fiery disposition. These fine and almost imperceptible -objects are the touches which bring the whole to its utmost perfection. -They are the varnish to the picture, the polish to the gem, the points -to the diamond. - -I will go further upon this subject. The very voice of an individual, -the tone she assumes in speaking to strangers, or even familiarly to -her friends, will lead a keen observer to discover what elements her -temper is made of. The low key belongs to the sullen, sulky, obstinate, -the shrill note to the petulant, the pert, the impatient; some will -pronounce the common and trite question “how _do_ you _do_?” with such -harshness and raucity, that they seem positively angry with you that -you should ever _do_ at all. Some effect a lispingness, which at once -betrays childishness and downright nonsense; others will bid their -words to gallop so swiftly, that the ablest ear is unable to follow the -rapid race, and gathers nothing but confused and unmeaning sounds. All -these extremes are to be avoided; and, although nature has differently -formed the organs of speech for different individuals, yet there is a -mode to correct nature’s own aberrations. I have heard of sensible -men, who, merely for the tone of voice which did not quite harmonize -with their ears, have dropped their connexion with women, who, in all -other points were unexceptionable. - -Admit this, and another salutary truth will be made manifest. If -good-breeding and graceful refinement are ever _most proper_, they -are always so. It is not sufficient that Amaryllis is amiable and -elegant in her whole deportment to strangers and to her acquaintance; -she must be undeviatingly so to her most intimate friends, to nearest -relations, to father, mother, brothers, sisters, husband. She must have -no _dishabille_ for them, either of mind or person. - -This last word inclines me to pursue the hint further; to exhort my -fair readers, while I plead for consistency in manners, also to carry -the analogy to dress. If they would always appear amiable, elegant, -and endearing to the beings with whom they are to spend their lives, -let them always make those beings the first objects for whose pleasure -their accomplishments, their manners, and their dress are to be -cultivated. Let them never appear before these tender relatives in the -disgusting negligence of disordered and soiled clothes. By this has -many a lovely girl lost her lover; and by this has many an amiable wife -alienated the affections of her husband. - -Let me, then, in concluding this chapter, again repeat, that -consistency is the soul of female power, the charm of her fascination, -the bond of her social happiness. - - - - -CONTINUATION OF THE SAME SUBJECT. - - “Observe the just gradation of degree.” - - -The carriage of a woman to her equals being founded on a just -appreciation of their merits, and a proper respect to herself, the same -sentiment will be found to pervade her conduct to her superiors in rank. - -With regard to men, when they occupy a higher station than herself, she -must proportion reverential courtesy to them, according to the rules of -court ceremony. If she knows them merely as officers high in authority -under the king, or as nobles distinguished by their honors, her manner -must then be of calm, dignified respect. But when she finds that merit -is yet higher in any of these men than his titles, then, let her show -the homage of the soul, as well as that of the body; for real greatness -ennobles the head which bows. - -With regard to her own sex, the same rule must be observed. There are -certain regulations in society which are called Laws of Precedence. -They are of as much use in maintaining a due and harmonious order -amongst civilized men and women, as the law of attraction is to -preserve the heavenly bodies in their proper orbits. As one star -differs from another in magnitude and splendor, in proportion to the -destiny it hath to fulfil; so do the talents and degrees of men vary -according to the allotted duties they have to perform. Hence, as in -astronomy, we think not of despising Mercury, because he is not as -large as Saturn, nor of speaking of our own Earth as a planet of no -account, because she has not four moons like Jupiter; so, by parity of -reasoning, we do not esteem our inferiors or equals the less, because -they do not fill the first orders in society. All ranks have their -proper place, the station in which they can be the most useful; and it -is in proportion as they perform their respective duties, that we must -respect the individuals. - -We, therefore, regard society as a grand machine, in which each member -has the place best fitted for him; or, to make use of a more common -illustration, as a vast drama, in which every person has the part -allotted to him most appropriate to his abilities. One enacts the -King, others the Lords, others the Commons; but all obey the Great -Director, who best knows what is in man. Regarding things in this -light, all arrogance, all pride, all envyings and contempt of others, -from their relative degrees, disappear, as emotions to which we have no -pretensions. We neither endowed ourselves with high birth or eminent -talents. We are altogether beings of a creation independent of our own -will; and, therefore, bearing our own honors as a gift, not as a right, -we should condescend to our inferiors, (whose place it might have been -our lot to fill,) and regard with deference our superiors, whom Heaven, -by so elevating, has intended that we should respect. - -This sentiment of order in the mind, this conviction of the beautiful -harmony in a well-organized civil society, gives us dignity with our -inferiors, without alloying it with the smallest particle of pride; -by keeping them at a due distance, we merely maintain ourselves and -them in the rank in which a higher Power has placed us; and the -condescension of our general manners to them, and our kindness in their -exigencies, and generous approbation of their worth, are sufficient -acknowledgments of sympathy, to show that we avow the same nature with -themselves, the same origin, the same probation, the same end. - -Our demeanor with our equals is more a matter of policy. To be -indiscreetly familiar, to allow of liberties being taken with your -good-nature; all this is likely to happen with people of the same -rank with ourselves, unless we hold our mere acquaintance at a proper -distance, by a certain reserve. A woman may be gay, ingenuous, -perfectly amiable to her associates, and yet reserved. Avoid all -sudden intimacies, all needless secret-telling, all closeting about -nonsense, caballing, taking mutual liberties with each other in regard -to domestic arrangements; in short, beware of familiarity! The kind -of familiarity which is common in families, and amongst women of the -same classes in society, is that of an indiscriminate gossiping; an -interchange of thoughts without any effusion of the heart. Then an -unceremonious way of reproaching each other, for a real or supposed -neglect; a coarse manner of declaring your faults; a habit of jangling -on trifles; a habit of preferring your own whims or ease before that of -the persons about you; an indelicate way of breaking into each other’s -privacy. In short, doing everything that declares the total oblivion of -all politeness and decent manners. - -This series of errors happens every day amongst brothers and sisters, -husbands and wives, and female acquaintances: and what are the -consequences? Distaste, disgust, everlasting quarrels, and perhaps -total rupture in the end! - -I have seen many families bound together by the tenderest affection; I -have seen many hearts wrought into each other by the sweet amalgamation -of friendship; but with none did I ever find this delicious foretaste -of the society in Elysium, where a never-failing politeness was not -mingled in all their thoughts, words, and actions, to each other. - -Deportment to superiors must ever carry with it that peculiar degree -of ceremony which their rank demands. No intimacy of intercourse with -them, no friendship and affection from them, ought ever to make us -forget the certain respect which their stations require. Thus, for a -mere gentlewoman to think of arrogating to herself the same homage of -courtesy that is paid to a lady of quality, or to deny the just tribute -of precedence, in every respect, to that lady, would be as absurd as -presumptuous. Yet we see it; and ridicule, from the higher circles, -is all she derives from her vain pretensions. By the same rule, every -woman of rank must yield due courtesy to those above her, in the just -gradation, according to their elevation in the scale of nobility. The -law of courts on this subject is soon understood, and, as a guide to -my young readers, who may not yet have been sufficiently informed, I -shall, beneath, give them a list of female titles, according to their -precedence in the march of hereditary and other honors. I shall begin -with the highest rank, as it is that which, in all public processions, -or in private parties, has the right of standing or moving first. - -As the crown of the whole, I set down a Queen. Then Princesses. Then -follow, in regular order, Duchesses, Marchionesses, Countesses. The -Wives of the eldest sons of Marquisses. The Wives of the younger sons -of Dukes. Daughters of Dukes. Daughters of Marquisses. Viscountesses. -Wives of the Eldest sons of Earls. Daughters of Earls. Wives of the -younger sons of Marquisses. Baronesses. Wives of the eldest sons of -Viscounts. Daughters of Viscounts. Wives of the younger sons of Earls. -Wives of the eldest sons of Barons. Daughters of Barons. Wives of the -younger sons of Viscounts. Wives of the younger sons of Barons. Wives -of Baronets. Wives of Privy Counsellors. Commoners. Wives of Judges. -Wives of Knights of the Garter. Wives of Knights of the Bath. Wives of -Knights of the Thistle. Wives of Knights Bachelors. Wives of Generals. -Wives of Admirals. Wives of the eldest sons of Baronets. Daughters of -Knights, according to their fathers’ precedence. Wives of the younger -sons of Baronets. Wives of Esquires and Gentlemen. Daughters of -Esquires and Gentlemen. Wives of Citizens and Burgesses. The Wives of -Military and Naval Officers of course take precedence of each other in -correspondence with the rank of their husbands. - -This scale, if every young lady would bear in mind and conform to it, -is a sufficient guide to the mere ceremony of precedence; and would -effectually prevent those dangerous disputes in ball-rooms about -places, and those rude jostlings in going in and out of assemblies, -which are not more disagreeable than ill-bred. It is the perfection -of fine breeding to know your place, to be acquainted with that of -others; and to fall gracefully into your station accordingly. While -the gentlewoman is content to move in the train of female honors, -the dignified decorum of step forms one graceful link in the chain -of society; but if she struggles to get before, strikes one to her -right, and the other to her left; treads down alike her equals and her -superiors, in her eagerness for pre-eminence; we fly from the shrew, -and declare her unworthy of fellowship with any class of well-ordered -females. - -The deference we pay to superiors, our inferiors will refund to -us; and therefore, if we wish to maintain “that proud submission, -that dignified obedience,” which binds the subject, through various -gradations, to the sovereign, we must teach our untractable spirits to -bend to the cogent reasons and salutary ordinances of high authority. - -Women in every country have a greater influence than men choose to -confess. - - “Men’s earliest words are taught them from her lips.” - -Though haughtiness of mind will not allow them always to acknowledge -the truth, yet we see the proof in its effects; and, in consequence, -must exhort women, by yielding their deference to the laws of honorary -precedence, to teach men to obey them; and rather to emulate such -distinctions, than seek to pull down the possessors to the level of the -common herd. - - - - -CONCLUSION. - - “Can comeliness of form, or shape, or air, - With comeliness of words or deeds compare? - No! those at first th’ unwary heart may gain, - But these, these only, can the heart retain.” - - GAY. - - -When so much has been said of the body and its accoutrements, I cannot -but subjoin a few words on the intelligence which animates the frame, -and of the organ which imparts its meaning. - -Connected speech is granted to mankind alone. Parrots may prate, and -monkeys chatter; but it is only to the reasonable being that power of -combining ideas, expressing their import, and uttering, in audible -sounds, in all its various gradations, the language of sense and -judgment, of love and resentment, is awarded as a gift, that gives us a -proud and undeniable superiority to all the rest of the creation. - -To employ this faculty well and gracefully, is one grand object of -education. The mere organ itself, as to sound, is like a musical -instrument, to be modulated with elegance, or struck with the -disorderly nerve of coarseness and vulgarity. - -I must add to what has been said before on the subject, that excessive -rapidity of speaking is, in general, even with a clear enunciation, -very disagreeable; but, when it is accompanied with a shrill voice, -the effect is inexpressibly discordant and hideous. The first orator -the heathen world ever knew, so far remedied the natural defects of -his speech, (and they were most embarrassing,) as to become the most -easy and persuasive of speakers. In like manner, when a young woman -finds any difficulty or inelegance in her organs, she ought to pay the -strictest attention to rectify the fault. - -Should she have too quick or encumbered an articulation, she ought -to read with extreme slowness for several hours in the day, and even -pay attention, in speaking, to check the rapidity or confusion of her -utterance. By similar antidotal means, she must attack a propensity -of talking in a high key. Better err in the opposite extreme, -while she is prosecuting her cure, as the voice will gradually and -imperceptibly attain its most harmonious pitch, than, by at first -attempting the medium, most likely retain too much of the screaming -key. A clear articulation, a tempered intonation, and in a moderate -key, are essentials in the voice of an accomplished female. Her -graceful peculiarities must be the gift of nature, or the effect of -cultivated taste. Fine judgment and delicate sensibility are the best -schoolmistresses on this subject. Indeed, where, in relation to man or -woman, shall we find that an improved understanding, and enlightened -mind, and a refined taste, are not the best polishers of manners, and -in all respects the most efficient handmaids of the Muses? - -Let me, then, in one short sentence, in one tender adieu, my fair -readers and endeared friends! enforce upon your minds, that if Beauty -be woman’s weapon, it must be feathered by the Graces, pointed by the -eye of Discretion, and shot by the hand of Virtue! - -Look, then, my sweet pupils, not merely to your mirrors, when you would -decorate yourselves for conquest, but consult the _speculum_, which -will reflect your hearts and minds. Remember that it is the affections -of a sensible and reasonable soul you hope to subdue, and seek for arms -likely to carry the fortress. - -He that is worthy, must love corresponding excellence. Which of you -all would wish to marry a man merely for the color of his eye, or -the shape of his leg? Think not then worse of him than you would do -of yourselves; and hope not to satisfy his better wishes with the -possession of a merely handsome wife. - -Beauty of person will ever be found a dead letter, unless it be -animated with beauty of mind. “For ’tis the mind that makes the body -rich.” We must, then, not only cultivate the shape, the complexion, the -air, the attire, the manners, but most assiduously must our attention -be devoted to teach “the young idea how to shoot,” and to fashion the -unfolding mind to judgment and virtue. By such culture, it will not be -merely the charming girl, the captivating woman we shall present to -the world, but the dutiful daughter, affectionate sister, tender wife, -judicious mother, faithful friend, and amiable acquaintance. - -Let these, then, be fair images which will form themselves on the -models drawn by my not inexperienced pen! Let me see Beauty, whose soul -is virtue, approach me with the chastened step of Modesty; and, ere -she advances from behind the heavenly cloud that envelops her, I shall -behold Love, and all the graces, hovering in air to adorn and attend -her charms. - -This may be thy picture, lovely daughter of Albion! Make thyself, then -worthy of the likeness, and thou wilt fulfil the fondest wish of thine -unknown friend. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - - -ON THE USE OF CORSETS. - - -The following pages are abridged by an eminent English physician from -an Essay on the Use of Corsets, by Soemmerring, the German physiologist: - -Fashion lives on novelty, and we have on this account much charity for -its wanderings and eccentricities. Bonnets, with a snout as long as an -elephant’s proboscis, or a margin as broad as a Winchester bushel, are -merely ridiculous. Shoulders that look like wings, and sleeves as wide -as a petticoat, we think are not particularly graceful; but they have -at least the merit of being airy, and we take no offence. We cannot, -however, extend our indulgence to the compressed waist, which is the -rage at present. We know that as often as the waist is lengthened to -its natural limits, this tendency to abridge its diameter appears; and -we confess we are puzzled to account for the fact; for surely it is -strange, that a permanent prepossession should exist in favor of a mode -of dress which is at once ugly, unnatural, and pernicious. Were fashion -under the guidance of taste, the principles of drapery in painting -and sculpture would never be lost sight of in its changes. The clothes -that cover us may be disposed in an infinite variety of forms, without -violating those rules which the artist is careful to observe. The true -form of the body ought to be disclosed to the eye, without the shape -being exhibited in all its minutiæ, as in the dress of a harlequin; -but in no case should the natural proportions (supposing the figure to -be good) be changed. Ask the sculptor what he thinks of a fashionable -waist, pinched till it rivals the lady’s neck in tenuity, and he will -tell you it is monstrous. Consult the physician, and you will learn -that this is one of those follies in which no female can long indulge -with impunity; for health, and even life, are often sacrificed to it. - -Corsets are used partly as a warm covering to the chest, and partly to -furnish a convenient attachment to other parts of the female dress. -This is all proper and correct; but to these uses fashion superadds -others, originating in fantastical notions of beauty. Corsets are -employed to modify the shape, to render the chest as small below, and -as broad above, as possible, and to increase the elevation, fulness, -and prominence of the bosom. To show how this affects the condition of -the body, we must begin by giving a short description of the thorax or -chest, which is the subject of this artificial compression. - -Every one who has seen a skeleton, knows that the chest consists -of a cavity protected by a curious frame-work of bones. These are, -1st, the back-bone, (consisting of _vertebræ_, or short bones jointed -into one another,) which sustains the whole upper part of the trunk; -2d, the breast-bone, about seven or eight inches long, and composed -of three pieces; and 3dly, the ribs, of which there are generally -twentyfour. The twelve ribs on each side are all fixed to the back-bone -behind; seven of these, the seven uppermost, are also attached to the -breast-bone before, and are, therefore, called _true ribs_. The eighth -rib has its end turned up, and rests on the seventh; the ninth rests -in the same way on the eighth; but the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth -are not connected with one another in front at all. The fore extremity -of each rib consists not of bone, but of an elastic substance called -cartilage. The elasticity of this substance, combined with the oblique -position of the ribs, constitutes a beautiful provision, in consequence -of which the chest enlarges and contracts its volume, to afford free -play to the lungs. - -We now wish to call attention to the form of this cavity, which, as -we have seen, is surrounded and protected by the back-bone, ribs, and -breast-bone, and is called the _thorax_, or chest. The uppermost pair -of ribs, which lie just at the bottom of the neck, are very short; -the next pair is rather longer; the third longer still; and thus they -go on increasing in length to the seventh pair, or last _true_ ribs, -after which the length diminishes, but without materially contracting -the size of the cavity, because the false ribs only go round a part of -the body. Hence the chest has a sort of conical shape, or it may be -compared to the bee-hives used in this country, the narrow or pointed -end being next the neck, and the broad end undermost. The natural form -of the thorax, in short, is just the reverse of the fashionable shape -of the waist. The latter is narrow below, and wide above; the former is -narrow above, and wide below. - -The lower part of the thorax is also much more compressible, and of -course more easily injured by ligatures than the upper. In the upper -part, the bones form a complete circle; and, from the small obliquity -of the ribs, this circle presents a great power of resistance to -external pressure. But the last five ribs, called the false ribs, -besides being placed more obliquely, become weaker as they decrease -in length, and having no support in front, their power of resisting -external pressure is probably six times less than that of the true -ribs. Hence ligatures applied to this part of the body may contract the -natural size of the cavity perhaps one half. Nature, in this instance, -has entrusted the belle with a discretionary power, guarding against -its abuse, however, by severe penalties. If she chooses to _brave the -consequences_, she may always, with the help of lace and cord, produce -a great change on this part of her person. - -From the great care nature has bestowed to strengthen the outer shell -of the thorax, and to combine mobility with strength, we may judge of -the importance of the organs within, and of the value of free motion -to their healthy action. It is a further proof of this, as Soemmerring -observes, that the ribs are the first part of the bony frame-work which -nature forms; for, in the unborn child, no other bones except those -of the ear are so perfect. The _contents_ of the thorax are,--first, -the heart, which is the centre of the circulating system, and which, -for the sake of its metaphorical offices, every lady must be anxious -to keep from injury;--next, the lungs, which occupy by far the largest -space, and of the delicacy of whose operations every one may judge. -There are, besides, either within the thorax, or in juxtaposition with -it, the stomach, liver, and kidneys, with the œsophagus, the trachea, -or windpipe, part of the intestines, and many nerves, all intimately -connected with the vital powers. Most of these organs are not only of -primary importance in themselves, but, through the nerves, arteries, -&c., their influence extends to the head, and the remotest parts of -the limbs, so that when they are injured, _health is poisoned at its -source_, and the mischief always travels to other parts of the system. - -Imagine, now, what is the consequence of applying compression, by -corsets of some unyielding material, to a cavity enclosing so many -delicate organs, whose free action is essential to health. First, the -lowest part of the shell of the thorax yields most; the false ribs, and -the lower true ribs, are pressed inwards; the whole viscera in this -part of the body, including part of the intestines, are squeezed close -together and forced upwards; and, as the pressure is continued above, -they are forced higher still. If the lacing is carried further, the -breast-bone is raised, and sometimes bent; the collar-bone protrudes -its inner extremity; and the shoulder-blades are forced backwards. -The under part of the lungs is pressed together, and the entrance -of the blood into it hindered; the abdominal viscera, being least -protected, suffer severely; the stomach is compressed, its distention -prevented, and its situation and form changed, giving rise to imperfect -digestion; the blood is forced up to the head, where it generates -various complaints; the liver has its shape altered, and its functions -obstructed; the bones having their natural motions constrained, -distortion ensues, and the high shoulder, the twisted spine, or -breast-bone, begins at last to manifest itself through the integuments -and the clothes. - -Another effect of tight corsets, says the essayist, is, that those -who have been long so closely laced, become at last unable to hold -themselves erect, or move with comfort without them, but, as is very -justly said, _fall together_, in consequence of the natural form -and position of the ribs being altered. The muscles of the back are -weakened and crippled, and cannot maintain themselves in their natural -position for any length of time. The spine, too, no longer accustomed -to bear the destined weight of the body, bends and sinks down. Where -tight lacing is practised, young women, from fifteen to twenty years -of age, are found so dependent upon their corsets, that they faint -whenever they lay them aside, and therefore are obliged to have -themselves laced before going to sleep. For as soon as the thorax and -abdomen are relaxed, by being deprived of their usual support, the -blood rushing downwards, in consequence of the diminished resistance -to its motion, empties the vessels of the head, and thus occasions -fainting. - -“From 1760 to about 1770,” says Soemmerring, “it was the fashion in -Berlin and other parts of Germany, and also in Holland a few years -ago, to apply corsets to children. This practice fell into disuse, -in consequence of its being observed, that children who did not wear -corsets grew up straight, while those who were treated with this -extraordinary care, got by it a high shoulder or a hunch. Many families -might be named, in which parental fondness selected the handsomest of -several boys to put in corsets, and the result was, that these alone -were hunched. The deformity was attributed at first to the improper -mode of applying the corsets, till it was discovered that no child -thus invested, grew up straight, not to mention the risk of consumption -and rupture which were likewise incurred by using them. I, for my part, -affirm, that I do not know any woman who, by tight lacing, (that is, -by artificial means,) has obtained ‘a fine figure,’ in whom I could -not, by accurate examination, point out either a high shoulder, oblique -compressed ribs, a lateral incurvation of the spine in the form of -an italic _S_, or some other distortion. I have had opportunities of -verifying this opinion among ladies of high condition, who, as models -of fine form, were brought forward for the purpose of putting me to -silence.” - -Young ladies in course of time hope to become wives, and wives to -become mothers. Even in this last stage, few females have the courage -to resist a practice which is in general use, though to them it is -trebly injurious. But it is sufficient to glance at this branch of -the subject, on which, for obvious reasons, we cannot follow our -medical instructer. It is lamentable, however, that mothers who have -themselves experienced the bitter fruits of tight lacing, still permit -their daughters to indulge in it. There is, in truth, no tyranny like -the tyranny of fashion. “I have found mothers of discernment and -experience,” says Soemmerring, “who predicted that in their 25th year, -a hunch would inevitably be the lot of their daughters, whom they -nevertheless allowed to wear corsets, because they were afraid to make -their children singular.” - -But it is time to speak of the diseases produced by the passion for -_slender waists_. “One is astonished,” says Soemmerring, “at the number -of diseases which corsets occasion. Those I have subjoined rest on the -authority of the most eminent physicians. Tight lacing produces-- - -“Headach, giddiness, tendency to fainting, pain in the eyes, pain -and ringing in the ears, bleeding at the nose, shortness of breath, -spitting of blood, consumption, derangement of the circulation, -palpitation of the heart, water in the chest, loss of appetite, -squeamishness, eructations, vomiting of blood, depraved digestion, -flatulence, diarrhœa, colic pains, induration of the liver, dropsy, and -rupture. It is also followed by melancholy, hysteria, and many diseases -peculiar to the female constitution, which it is not necessary to -enumerate in detail.” - -But the injury does not fall merely on the inward structure of the -body, but also on its outward beauty, and on the temper and feelings -with which that beauty is associated. Beauty is in reality but another -name for that expression of countenance which is the index of sound -health, intelligence, good feelings, and peace of mind. All are aware, -that uneasy feelings, existing habitually in the breast, speedily -exhibit their signature on the countenance; and that bitter thoughts, -or a bad temper, spoil the human face divine of its grace. But it -is not so generally known that irksome or painful sensations, though -merely of a physical nature, by a law equally certain, rob the temper -of its sweetness, and, as a consequence, the countenance of the more -ethereal and better part of its beauty. Pope attributes the rudeness -of a person usually bland and polished, to the circumstance, that “he -had not dined;” in other words, his stomach was in bad order. But there -are many other physical pains besides hunger that sour the temper; and, -for our part, if we found ourselves sitting at dinner with a man whose -body was girt on all sides by board and bone, like the north pole by -thick-ribbed ice, we should no more expect to find grace, politeness, -amenity, vivacity, and good-humor, in such a companion, than in -Prometheus with a vulture battening on his vitals, or in Cerberus, -whose task is to growl all day long in his chains. - - - - -ON THE LADIES’ PASSION FOR LEVELLING ALL DISTINCTION OF DRESS. - - -Foreigners observe that there are no ladies in the world more -beautiful, or more ill-dressed, than those of England. Our countrywomen -have been compared to those pictures, where the face is the work of -a Raphael, but the draperies thrown out by some empty pretender, -destitute of taste, and entirely unacquainted with design. - -If I were a poet, I might observe on this occasion, that so much -beauty, set off with all the advantages of dress, would be too powerful -an antagonist for the opposite sex; and therefore it was wisely ordered -that our ladies should want taste, lest their admirers should entirely -want reason. - -But, to confess the truth, I do not find they have greater aversion to -fine clothes than the women of any other country whatsoever. I cannot -fancy that a shopkeeper’s wife in Cheapside has a greater tenderness -for the fortune of her husband, than a citizen’s wife in Paris; or -that miss in a boarding-school is more an economist in dress than -mademoiselle in a nunnery. - -Although Paris may be accounted the soil in which almost every fashion -takes its rise, its influence is never so general there as with us. -They study there the happy method of uniting grace and fashion, and -never excuse a woman for being awkwardly dressed, by saying her clothes -are in the mode. A Frenchwoman is a perfect architect in dress; she -never, with Gothic ignorance, mixes the orders; she never tricks out -a squabby Doric shape with Corinthian finery; or, to speak without -metaphor, she conforms to general fashion only when it happens not to -be repugnant to private beauty. - -The English ladies, on the contrary, seem to have no other standard -of grace but the run of the town. If fashion gives the word, every -distinction of beauty, complexion, of stature, ceases. Sweeping trains, -Prussian bonnets, and trollopees, as like each other as if cut from -the same piece, level all to one standard. The Mall, the gardens, -and playhouses, are filled with ladies in uniform; and their whole -appearance shows as little variety of taste as if their clothes were -bespoke by the colonel of a marching regiment, or fancied by the artist -who dresses the three battalions of guards. - -But not only the ladies of every shape and complexion, but of every -age too, are possessed of this unaccountable passion for levelling -all distinction in dress. The lady of no quality travels first behind -the lady of some quality; and a woman of sixty is as gaudy as her -grand-daughter. A friend of mine, a good-natured old man, amused me -the other day with an account of his journey to the Mall. It seems, -in his walk thither, he, for some time, followed a lady, who, as he -thought, by her dress, was a girl of fifteen. It was airy, elegant, and -youthful. My old friend had called up all his poetry on this occasion, -and fancied twenty Cupids prepared for execution in every folding of -her white negligee. He had prepared his imagination for an angel’s -face;--but what was his mortification to find that the imaginary -goddess was no other than his cousin Hannah, some years older than -himself! - -But to give it in his own words: “After the transports of our first -salute,” said he, “were over, I could not avoid running my eye over -her whole appearance. Her gown was of cambric, cut short before, in -order to discover a high-heeled shoe, which was buckled almost at the -toe. Her cap consisted of a few bits of cambric, and flowers of painted -paper stuck on one side of her head. Her bosom, that had felt no hand -but the hand of time these twenty years, rose, suing to be pressed. I -could, indeed, have wished her more than a handkerchief of Paris net, -to shade her beauties; for, as Tasso says of the rose-bud, ‘_Quanto si -nostra men, tanto e pin bella_.’ A female breast is generally thought -most beautiful as it is more sparingly discovered. - -“As my cousin had not put on all this finery for nothing, she was -at that time sallying out to the Park, where I had overtaken her. -Perceiving, however, that I had on my best wig, she offered, if I would -squire her there, to send home the footman. Though I trembled for our -reception in public, yet I could not, with any civility, refuse; so, -to be as gallant as possible, I took her hand in my arm, and thus we -marched on together. - -“When we made our entry at the Park, two antiquated figures, so polite -and so tender, soon attracted the eyes of the company. As we made our -way among the crowds, who were out to show their finery as well as we, -wherever we came, I perceived we brought good humor with us. The polite -could not forbear smiling, and the vulgar burst out into a horse-laugh -at our grotesque figures. Cousin Hannah, who was perfectly conscious of -the rectitude of her own appearance, attributed all this mirth to the -oddity of mine; while I as cordially placed the whole to her account. -Thus, from being two of the best-natured creatures alive, before we -got half way up the Mall, we both began to grow peevish, and like two -mice on a string, endeavored to revenge the impertinence of others -upon ourselves. ‘I am amazed, cousin Jeffery,’ says Miss, ‘that I can -never get you to dress like a Christian. I knew we should have the -eyes of the Park upon us, with your great wig, so frizzled, and yet so -beggarly, and your monstrous muff. I hate those odious muffs.’ I could -have patiently borne a criticism on all the rest of my equipage; but -as I had always a peculiar veneration for my muff, I could not forbear -being piqued a little; and throwing my eyes with a spiteful air on her -bosom, ‘I could heartily wish, madam,’ replied I, ‘that, for your sake, -my muff was cut into a tippet.’ - -“As my cousin, by this time, was grown heartily ashamed of her -gentleman usher, and as I was never very fond of any kind of exhibition -myself, it was mutually agreed to retire for a while to one of the -seats, and, from that retreat, remark on others as freely as they had -remarked on us. - -“When seated, we continued silent for some time, employed in very -different speculations. I regarded the whole company, now passing -in review before me, as drawn out merely for my amusement. For my -entertainment, the beauty had, all that morning, been improving her -charms: the beau had put on lace, and the young doctor a big wig, -merely to please me. But quite different were the sentiments of -cousin Hannah: she regarded every well-dressed woman as a victorious -rival; hated every face that seemed dressed in good humor, or wore -the appearance of greater happiness than her own. I perceived her -uneasiness, and attempted to lessen it, by observing that there was no -company in the Park to-day. To this she readily assented; ‘and yet,’ -says she, ‘it is full enough of scrubs of one kind or another.’ My -smiling at this observation gave her spirits to pursue the bent of -her inclination, and now she began to exhibit her skill in secret -history, as she found me disposed to listen. ‘Observe,’ says she to me, -‘that old woman in tawdry silk, and dressed out beyond the fashion. -That is Miss Biddy Evergreen. Miss Biddy, it seems, has money; and as -she considers that money was never so scarce as it is now, she seems -resolved to keep what she has to herself. She is ugly enough, you see; -yet, I assure you, she has refused several offers, to my knowledge, -within this twelvemonth. Let me see;--three gentlemen from Ireland, who -study the law, two waiting captains, her doctor, and a Scotch preacher, -who had liked to have carried her off. All her time is passed between -sickness and finery. Thus she spends the whole week in a close chamber, -with no other company but her monkey, her apothecary, and cat; and -comes dressed out to Park every Sunday, to show her airs, to get new -lovers, to catch a new cold, and to make new work for the doctor. - -“‘There goes Mrs. Roundabout, I mean the fat lady in the lustring -trollopee. Between you and I, she is but a cutler’s wife. See how -she’s dressed, as fine as hands and pins can make her, while her two -marriageable daughters, like bunters in stuff gowns, are now taking -six-penny-worth of tea at the White-conduit house. Odious puss, how -she waddles along, with her train two yards behind her! She puts me -in mind of my Lord Bantam’s Indian sheep, which are obliged to have -their monstrous tails trundled along in a go-cart. For all her airs, it -goes to her husband’s heart to see four yards of good lustring wearing -against the ground, like one of his knives on a grindstone. To speak -my mind, cousin Jeffery, I never liked those tails: for suppose a -young fellow should be rude, and the lady should offer to step back in -the fright, instead of retiring, she treads upon her train, and falls -fairly on her back; and then you know, cousin,--her clothes may be -spoiled. - -“‘Ah! Miss Mazzard! I knew we should not miss her in the Park; she in -the monstrous Prussian bonnet. Miss, though so very fine, was bred -a milliner; and might have had some custom, if she had minded her -business; but the girl was fond of finery, and, instead of dressing her -customers, laid out all her goods in adorning herself. Every new gown -she put on impaired her credit; she still, however, went on, improving -her appearance, and lessening her little fortune, and is now, you see, -become a belle and a bankrupt.’ - -“My cousin was proceeding in her remarks, which were interrupted by -the approach of the very lady she had been so freely describing. Miss -had perceived her at a distance, and approached to salute her. I found -by the warmth of the two ladies’ protestations, that they had been -long intimate, esteemed friends and acquaintance. Both were so pleased -at this happy rencounter, that they were resolved not to part for -the day. So we all crossed the Park together, and I saw them into a -hackney-coach at St. James’s.” - - OLIVER GOLDSMITH. - - - - -RECIPES. - - -_Paste of Palermo._ - -This paste for the hands, to use instead of soap, preserves them from -chapping, smooths their surface, and renders them soft. - -Taken, pound of soft soap, half a pint of salad oil, the same quantity -of spirits of wine, the juice of three lemons, a little silver sand, -and a sufficient quantity of what perfume pleases the sense. The oil -and soap must be first boiled together in an earthen pipkin. The other -ingredients to be added after boiling; and, when cool, amalgamate into -a paste with the hands. - - -_Fard._ - -This useful paste is good for taking off sunburnings, effects of -weather on the face, and accidental cutaneous eruptions. It must be -applied at going to bed. First wash the face with its usual ablution, -and when dry, rub this fard all over it, and go to rest with it on the -skin. This is excellent for almost constant use. Take two ounces of -oil of sweet almonds, ditto of spermaceti; melt them in a pipkin over a -slow fire. When they are dissolved and mixed, take it off the fire, and -stir into it one tablespoonful of fine honey. Continue stirring it till -it is cold, and then it is fit for use. - - -_Lip Salve._ - -A quarter of a pound of hard marrow from the marrow-bone. Melt it over -a slow fire, as it dissolves gradually, pour the liquid marrow into an -earthen pipkin; then add to it an ounce of spermaceti, twenty raisins -of the sun, stoned, and a small portion of alcanna root, sufficient to -color it a bright vermilion. Simmer these ingredients over a slow fire -for ten minutes, then strain the whole through muslin; and, while hot, -stir into it one teaspoonful of the balsam of Peru. Pour it into the -boxes in which it is to remain; it will there stiffen, and become fit -for use. - - -_Lavender Water._ - -Take of rectified spirits of wine half a pint, essential oil of -lavender two drachms, otto of roses five drops. Mix all together in a -bottle, and cork it for use. - - -_Unction de Maintenon._ - -The use of this is to remove freckles. The mode of application is -this:--Wash the face at night with elder-flower water, then anoint -it with the unction. In the morning cleanse your skin from its oily -adhesion, by washing it copiously in rose-water. - -Take of Venice soap an ounce, dissolve it in half an ounce of -lemon-juice, to which add of oil of bitter-almonds and deliquidated oil -of tartar, each a quarter of an ounce. Let the mixture be placed in the -sun till it acquires the consistence of ointment. When in this state, -add three drops of the oil of rhodium, and keep it for use. - - -_Creme de l’Enclos._ - -This is an excellent wash, to be used night and morning, for the -removal of tan. - -Take half a pint of milk, with the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of -white brandy, boil the whole, and skim it clear from all scum. When -cool, it is ready for use. - - -_Pommade de Seville._ - -This simple application is much in request with the Spanish ladies, -for taking off the effects of the sun, and to render the complexion -brilliant. - -Take equal parts of lemon-juice and white of eggs. Beat the whole -together in a varnished earthen pipkin, and set on a slow fire. Stir -the fluid with a wooden spoon till it has acquired the consistence of -soft pomatum. Perfume it with some sweet essence, and before you apply -it, carefully wash the face with rice water. - - -_Beaume à l’Antique._ - -This is a very fine cure for chapped lips. Take four ounces of the oil -of roses, half an ounce of white wax, and half an ounce of spermaceti; -melt them in a glass vessel, and stir them with a wooden spoon; pour it -out into glass cups for use. - - -_Wash for the Hair._ - -This is a cleanser and brightener of the head and hair, and should be -applied in the morning. - -Beat up the whites of six eggs into a froth, and with that anoint the -head close to the roots of the hair. Leave it to dry on; then wash the -head and hair thoroughly with a mixture of rum and rose-water in equal -quantities. - - -_Aura and Cephalus._ - -This curious recipe is of Grecian origin, as its name plainly -indicates, and it is said to have been very efficacious in preventing, -or even removing, premature wrinkles from the face of the Athenian fair. - -Put some powder of the best myrrh upon an iron plate, sufficiently -heated to melt the gum gently, and when it liquifies, hold your -face over it, at a proper distance to receive the fumes without -inconvenience; and that you may reap the whole benefit of the -fumigation, cover your head with a napkin. It must be observed, -however, that if the applicant feels any headache, she must desist, as -the remedy will not suit her constitution, and ill consequences might -possibly ensue. - - -_Madame Recamier’s Pommade._ - -This was communicated by this lady as being used in France and Italy, -by those who professionally, or by choice, are engaged in exercises -which require long and great exertions of the limbs, as dancing, -playing on instruments, &c. - -Take any suitable quantity of _Axungia Cervi_, i. e. the fat of a red -stag or hart; add to it the same quantity of olive oil, (Florence oil -is preferable to any of the kind,) and half the quantity of virgin wax; -melt the whole in an earthen vessel, well glazed, over a slow fire, -and, when properly mixed, leave it to cool. This ointment has been -applied also with considerable efficacy in cases of rheumatism. - - -_A Wash for the Face._ - -This recipe is well known in France, and much extolled by the ladies of -that country as efficacious and harmless. - -Take equal parts of the seeds of the melon, pompion, gourd, and -cucumber, pounded and reduced to powder or meal; add to it fresh -cream, sufficient to dilute the flour; beat all up together, adding -a sufficient quantity of milk, as it may be required, to make an -ointment, and then apply it to the face; leave it there for half an -hour, and then wash it off with warm soft water. - - -_A Paste for the Skin._ - -This may be recommended in cases when the skin seems to get too loosely -attached to the muscles. - -Boil the whites of four eggs in rose-water, add to it a sufficient -quantity of alum; beat the whole together till it takes the consistence -of a paste. This will give, when applied, great firmness to the skin. - - -_A Wash to give Lustre to the Face._ - -Infuse wheat-bran well sifted, for three or four hours in white wine -vinegar; add to it five yolks of eggs and a grain or two of ambergris, -and distil the whole. When the bottle is carefully corked, keep it for -twelve or fifteen days before you make use of it. - - -_Pimpernel Water._ - -Pimpernel is a most wholesome plant, and often used on the continent -for the purpose of whitening the complexion; it is there in so high -reputation, that it is said generally, that it ought to be continually -on the toilet of every lady who cares for the brightness of her skin. - - -_Eau de Veau._ - -Boil a calf’s foot in four quarts of river water till it is reduced to -half the quantity. Add half a pound of rice, and boil it with crumb of -white bread steeped in milk, a pound of fresh butter, and the whites of -five fresh eggs; mix with them a small quantity of camphor and alum, -and distil the whole. This recipe may be strongly recommended; it is -most beneficial to the skin, which it lubricates and softens to a very -comfortable degree. The best manner of distilling these ingredients is -in the _balneum mariæ_; that is, in a bottle placed in boiling water. - - -_Rose Water._ - -Put some roses into water, add to them a few drops of acid; the -vitriolic acid seems to be preferable to any--soon the water will -assume both the color and perfume of the roses. - - -_Another._ - -Take two pounds of rose-leaves, place them on a napkin tied round the -edges of a basin filled with hot water, and put a dish of cold water -upon the leaves; keep the bottom water hot, and change the water at top -as soon as it begins to grow warm; by this kind of distillation you -will extract a great quantity of the essential oil of the roses by a -process which cannot be expensive, and will prove very beneficial. - - -_Virgin Milk._ - -A publication of this kind would certainly be looked upon as an -imperfect performance, if we omitted to say a few words upon this -famous cosmetic. It consists of a tincture of benjoin, precipitated by -water. The tincture of benjoin is obtained by taking a certain quantity -of that gum, pouring spirits of wine upon it, and boiling it till it -becomes a rich tincture. If you pour a few drops of this tincture into -a glass of water, it will produce a mixture which will assume all the -appearance of milk, and retain a very agreeable perfume. If the face is -washed with this mixture, it will, by calling the purple stream of the -blood to the external fibres of the epidermis, produce on the cheeks a -beautiful rosy color; and, if left on the face to dry, it will render -it clear and brilliant. It also removes spots, freckles, pimples, -erysipelatous eruptions, &c. &c. if they have not been of long standing -on the skin. - - -_Lavender Water._ - -Take four handfuls of dried lavender flowers, and sprinkle on them -one quart of brandy, the same quantity of white wine and rose-water; -leave them to remain six days in a large bottle well-corked up; let the -liquor be distilled and poured off. - - -_Sweet-scented Water._ - -This agreeably-scented water is not only a pleasant cosmetic, but also -of great use in nervous disorders. - -Put one quart of rose-water, and the same quantity of orange-water, -into a large and wide-mouthed glass; strew upon it two handfuls of -jessamine flowers, put the glass in the _balneum mariæ_, or on a slow -fire, and when it is distilled, add to it a scruple of musk and the -same quantity of ambergris. - - -_Eau d’Ange._ - -Pound in a mortar fifteen cloves and one pound of cinnamon, and put the -whole into a quart of water, with four grains of anniseed; let it stand -over a charcoal fire twentyfour hours, then strain off the liquor, and -put it up for use. This perfume is most excellent, and will do well for -the hands, face, and hair, to which it communicates a very agreeable -scent. - - -_Remedy for the Toothache._ - -In two drachms of rectified spirits of wine dissolve one drachm of -camphire, five grains of prepared opium, and ten drops of oil of box; -mix them well, and keep it well corked for use. If the pain arise from -a hollow tooth, four or five drops on cotton to be put into the tooth; -or six or seven drops to be put on cotton into the ear on the side -where the pain is felt. Should the patient not feel easier in a quarter -of an hour, the same may be repeated. It has never failed on the second -application. - - -_An excellent Eye-Water._ - -Take six ounces of rectified spirits of wine, dissolve in it one drachm -of camphire, and half a pint of elder-flower water. Wash the eyes night -and morning with this liquid; it clears the vision, and strengthens the -sight. - - -_Dentifrice._ - -The following is one of the best recipes for tooth-powder:-- - -Take of prepared chalk six ounces, cassia powder, half an ounce, -orris-root, an ounce. These are to be well mixed, and may be colored -with red lake, or any other innocent substance, according to the fancy -of the user. This dentifrice is to be used with a firm brush every -morning; the teeth should also be brushed before going to bed, but it -is seldom necessary to use the powder more than once a day. - - -THE END. - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Minor errors in punctuation and spelling have been corrected. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE GRACES *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/67790-0.zip b/old/67790-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 981632b..0000000 --- a/old/67790-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67790-h.zip b/old/67790-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8eb54ec..0000000 --- a/old/67790-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67790-h/67790-h.htm b/old/67790-h/67790-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1d008ec..0000000 --- a/old/67790-h/67790-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5199 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Mirror of the Graces, by Anonymous—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p0 {text-indent: 0em;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -hr.r5 {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 47.5%; margin-right: 47.5%;} -hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} -table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 1.1em; width: 60%;} -table.autotable td, -table.autotable th { padding: 4px; } -.x-ebookmaker table {width: 95%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} -.page {width: 3em;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; -} /* page numbers */ - -.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} - -.right {text-align: right; text-indent: 0em;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -.small {font-size: 0.8em;} -.vsmall {font-size: 0.6em;} -.big {font-size: 1.2em;} - </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Mirror of the Graces, by Unknown</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Mirror of the Graces</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Unknown</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 7, 2022 [eBook #67790]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: MWS and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE GRACES ***</div> - - - - - -<h1><span class="vsmall">THE</span><br /> MIRROR OF THE GRACES.</h1> - -<p class="center small"> CONTAINING</p> - -<p class="center big"> GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS</p> - -<p class="center small"> FOR COMBINING</p> - -<p class="center"> ELEGANCE, SIMPLICITY, AND ECONOMY</p> - -<p class="center"> WITH FASHION IN DRESS;</p> - -<p class="center"> HINTS ON FEMALE ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND MANNERS;</p> - -<p class="center small"> AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF</p> - -<p class="center"> HEALTH AND BEAUTY.</p> - -<p class="center p2 big"> BY A LADY OF DISTINCTION.</p> - -<hr class="r65" /> -<p class="center small"> “If Beauty be woman’s weapon, it must be feathered by the Graces, - pointed by the eye of Discretion, and shot by the hand of Virtue.”</p> -<hr class="r65" /> -<p class="center"> FROM THE LONDON EDITION.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="big">BOSTON:<br /> - PUBLISHED BY FREDERIC S. HILL,</span><br /> - NO. 7, WATER STREET.</p> -<hr class="r5" /> -<p class="center big"> 1831. -</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> -<hr class="r5" /> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#PRELIMINARY_OBSERVATIONS_ON_THE_SUBJECT">Preliminary Observations on the Subject</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_5">5</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#GENERAL_REMARKS_ON_THE_MANNERS_AND_FASHIONS_OF_THE_PAST_AND_PRESENT">General Remarks on the Manners and Fashions of the Past and Present Times</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_14">14</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#ON_THE_FEMALE_FORM">On the Female Form</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_19">19</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#THE_SAME_SUBJECT_OF_FEMALE_BEAUTY_MORE_EXPLICITLY_CONSIDERED">The same Subject, of Female Beauty, more explicitly considered</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_34">34</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#GENERAL_THOUGHTS_ON_DRESS_AND_PERSONAL_DECORATION">General Thoughts on Dress and Personal Decoration</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_48">48</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#ON_THE_PECULIARITIES_OF_DRESS_WITH_REFERENCE_TO_THE_STATION_OF_THE">On the Peculiarities of Dress, with reference to the Station of the Wearer</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_68">68</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#OF_THE_DETAIL_OF_DRESS">Of the Detail of Dress</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_82">82</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#ON_DEPORTMENT">On Deportment</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_105">105</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#PECULIARITIES_IN_CARRIAGE_AND_DEMEANOR">Peculiarities in Carriage and Demeanor</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_110">110</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#Management">On the Management of the Person in Dancing, and in the exercise of other Female Accomplishments</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_126">126</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#CONTINUATION_OF_THE_SAME_SUBJECT">Continuation of the same Subject</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_149">149</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#CONCLUSION">Conclusion</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_156">156</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#ON_THE_USE_OF_CORSETS">On the Use of Corsets</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_163">163</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#ON_THE_LADIES_PASSION_FOR_LEVELLING_ALL_DISTINCTION_OF_DRESS">On the Ladies’ Passion for Levelling all Distinction of Dress</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_173">173</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#RECIPES">Recipes</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_183">183</a> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MIRROR">MIRROR<br /><span class="small">OF</span><br /><span class="big">THE GRACES.</span></h2> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="PRELIMINARY_OBSERVATIONS_ON_THE_SUBJECT">PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS ON THE SUBJECT.</h3> - - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For contemplation he, and valor formed;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For softness she, and sweet attractive grace;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He for God only, she for God in him.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Milton.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>In discoursing on the degree of consequence, in the scale of creation, -that may be allowed to the human body, two extremes are generally -adopted. Epicureans, for obvious reasons, exalt our corporeal part to -the first rank; and Stoics, by opposite deductions, degrade it to the -last. But to neither of these opinions can the writer of these pages -concede.</p> - -<p>The body is as much a part of the human creature as the mind; by its -outward expression, we convey to others a sense of our opinions, -hopes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> fears, and affections—we communicate love, and we excite it. -We enjoy, not only the pleasures of the senses, but the delights which -shoot from mind to mind, in the pressure of a hand, the glance of an -eye, and the whisper of the heart. Shall we then despise this ready and -obedient vehicle of all that passes within the invisible soul? Shall -we contemn it as a lump of encumbering clay—as a piece of corruption, -fitter for the charnel-house than the bosom of affection?</p> - -<p>These ascetic ideas may be consistent with the thankless superstition -of the ancient Zenos, or the modern fanatics, who see neither beauty -nor joyfulness in the works of the bounteous Lord of Nature; but the -rational and fair-judging mind, which acknowledges “use and decency” -in all the Creator’s works, while it turns from the pagan devotion -which the libertine pays to his own body, regards that inferior part -of himself with the respect which is due to it in consideration of its -Maker and its purpose.</p> - -<p>“Reverence thyself!” says the philosopher, not only with relation to -the mind which directs, but to the body which executes. God created the -body, not only for usefulness, but adorned it with loveliness; and what -he has made so pleasing, shall we disesteem, and refuse to apply to its -admirable destination?—The very approving and innocent complacency -we all feel in the contemplation of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> beauty, whether it be that of a -landscape or of a flower, is a sufficient witness that the pleasure -which pervades our hearts at the sight of human charms, was planted -there by the Divine Framer of all things, as a principle of delight and -social attraction. To this end, then, I seek to turn your attention, -my fair countrywomen, upon <span class="allsmcap">YOURSELVES</span>!—not only to the -cultivation of your minds, but to maintain in its intended station that -inferior part of yourselves, which mistaken gravity would, on the one -hand, lead you to neglect as altogether worthless; and vanity, on the -other, incline you too much to cherish, and egregiously to over-value.</p> - -<p>From this you will gather, that the <span class="allsmcap">PERSON</span> of a woman is the -primary subject of this discourse.</p> - -<p>Mothers, perhaps, (those estimable mothers who value the souls as -the better parts of their daughters,) may start at such a text. But -I call them to recollect, that it is “good all things should be in -order!” This is a period when absurdity, bad taste, shamelessness, and -self-interest, in the shapes of tire-men and tire-women, have arranged -themselves in close siege around the beauty, and even chastity, of your -daughters; and to preserve these graces in their original purity, I, a -woman of virtue and a Christian, do not think it beneath my dignity to -lift my pen.</p> - -<p>Dr. Knox will not refuse to be my auxiliary, as a grave auxiliary -may be necessary to give consequence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> to a subject usually deemed so -trivial. “Taste requires a congruity between the internal character -and the external appearance,” says he; “and the imagination will -involuntarily form to itself an idea of such a correspondence. First -ideas are in general of considerable consequence; and I should, -therefore, think it wise in the female world to take care that their -<em>appearance</em> should not convey a forbidding idea to the most -superficial observer.”</p> - -<p>Another author shall speak for me besides this respected moralist. -The very High Priest of the Graces, the discriminating Chesterfield, -declared, that “a prepossessing exterior is a perpetual letter of -recommendation.” To show how different such an exterior is from -affectation and extravagance, is one object of these pages; and I hope -that my fair and candid readers will, after perusal, lay them down with -a conviction that beauty is a blessing, and is to be used with maidenly -discretion; that modesty is grace; simplicity elegance; and consistency -the charm which rivets the attracted heart of well-judging men.</p> - -<p>That you have sought my sentiments on these subjects makes it easier -to me to enter into the minute detail I meditate. Indeed, I have -ever blamed, as impolitic, the austerity which condemns, without -distinction, any attention to personal appearance. It is surely -more reasonable to direct the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> youthful mind to that medium between -negligence and nicety which will preserve the person in health and -elegance, than, by leaving a young woman ignorant of the real and -supposed advantages of these graces, render her liable to learn the -truth in the worst way from strangers, who will either insult her -aggravated deformity, or teach her to set off her before-obscured -charms with, perhaps, meretricious assistance.</p> - -<p>It is unjust and dangerous to hold out false lights to young persons; -for, finding that their guides have, in one respect, designedly led -them astray, they may be led likewise to reject as untrue all else -they have been taught; and so nothing but disappointment, error, and -rebellion can be the consequence.</p> - -<p>Let girls advancing to womanhood be told the true state of the world -with which they are to mingle. Let them know its real opinions on the -subjects connected with themselves as women, companions, friends, -relatives. Hide not from them what society thinks and expects on all -these matters; but fail not to show them, at the same time, where the -fashions of the day would lead them wrong—where the laws of heaven and -man’s approving (though not always submitting) reason, would keep them -right.</p> - -<p>Let religion and morality be the foundation of the female character. -The artist may then adorn the structure without any danger to its -safety.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span> When a girl is instructed on the great purposes of her -existence,—that she is an immortal being, as well as a mortal -woman,—you may, without fearing ill impressions, show her, that as we -admire the beauty of the rose, as well as esteem its medicinal power, -so her personal charms will be dear in the eyes of him whose heart is -occupied by the graces of her yet more estimable mind. We may safely -teach a well-educated girl, that virtue ought to wear an inviting -aspect—that it is due to her excellence to decorate her comely -apparel. But we must never cease to remember that it is <span class="allsmcap">VIRTUE</span> -we seek to adorn. It must not be a merely beautiful form; for that, -if it possess not the charm of intelligence, the bond of rational -tenderness, is a frame without a soul—a statue which we look on and -admire, pass away and forget. We must impress upon the yet ingenuous -maid, that while beauty attracts, its influence is transient, unless -it presents itself as the harbinger of that good sense and principle -which can alone secure the affection of a husband, the esteem of -friends, and the respect of the world. Show her that regularity of -features and symmetry of form are not essentials in the composition of -the woman whom the wise man would select as the partner of his life. -Seek, as an example, some one of your less fair acquaintance, whose -sweet disposition, gentle manners, and winning deportment, render her -the delight of her kindred, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> dear solace of her husband. Show your -young and lovely pupil what use this amiable woman has made of her -few talents; and then call on her to cultivate her more extraordinary -endowments to the glory of her Creator, the honor of her parents, and -to the maintenance of her own happiness in both worlds. To do this, -requires that her aims should be virtuous, and the means she employs to -reach them of the same nature.</p> - -<p>We know, from every record under heaven, from the sacred page to -that of the heathen world, that woman was made to be the help-mate -of man—that, by rendering herself pleasing in his sight, she is the -assuager of his pains, the solacer of his wo, the sharer of his joys, -the chief agent in the communication of his sublunary bliss. This -is beautifully alluded to in the Book of Genesis, where the work of -Creation is represented as incomplete, and the felicity of Paradise -itself imperfect, till woman was bestowed to consummate its delights:—</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“The world was sad! the garden was a wild;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And man, the hermit, sighed—till woman smiled.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>We have all read in the sacred oracles, that “a woman’s desire is unto -her husband!” and for that tender relation, the first on earth, (for, -before the bonds of relationship, man and woman became a wedded pair,) -woman must leave father and mother, and cleave unto him alone. Hence, -I shall<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span> no longer beg the question, whether it be not right that a -chaste maid should adorn herself with the graces of youth and modesty, -and, with a sober reference to the duties of her sex, present herself a -candidate for the love and protection of manliness and virtue, in the -most agreeable manner possible.</p> - -<p>By making the fairness of the body the sign of the mind’s purity, man -is imperceptibly attracted to the object designed for him by Heaven as -the partner of his life, the future mother of his children, and the -angel which is to accompany him into eternity. Hence, insignificant -as the means may seem, the end is great; and poor as we may choose to -consider them, we all feel their effects, and enjoy their sweetness.</p> - -<p>Having thus explained my subject, my fair friends will readily -perceive, that there cannot be anything hostile to female delicacy in -the prosecution of my scheme. I give to woman all her privileges; I -allow her the empire of all her personal charms; I will assist her to -increase their force: but it must be with a constant reference to their -being the ensign of her more estimable mental attractions. She must -never suppose that when I insist on attention to person and manners, -I forget the mind and heart; or when I commend external grace, that I -pass unregarded the internal beauty of the virgin soul.</p> - -<p>In order to give a regular and perspicuous elucidation of the several -branches of my subject, I shall<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> arrange them under separate heads. -Sometimes I may illustrate by observations drawn from abroad, at other -times by remarks collected at home. Having been a traveller in my -youth, whilst visiting foreign courts with my husband, on an errand -connected with the general welfare of nations, I could not overlook the -influence which the women of every country hold over the morals and -happiness of the opposite sex in every rank and degree.</p> - -<p>Fine taste in apparel I have ever seen the companion of pure morals, -whilst a licentious style of dress was as certainly the token of -the like laxity in manners and conduct. To correct this dangerous -fashion, ought to be the study and attempt of every mother—of every -daughter—of every woman.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="GENERAL_REMARKS_ON_THE_MANNERS_AND_FASHIONS_OF_THE_PAST_AND_PRESENT">GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANNERS AND FASHIONS OF THE PAST AND PRESENT -TIMES.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Manners with fortunes, humors turn with climes,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tenets with books, and principles with times.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Pope.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>When Innocence left the world, astonished man blushed at his own -and his partner’s nakedness, and coverings were soon invented. For -many an age, the twisted foliage of trees, and the skins of beasts, -were the only garments which clothed our ancestors. Decoration was -unknown, excepting the wild flower, plucked from the luxuriant shrub, -the shell from the beach, or the berry off the tree. Nature was then -unsophisticated; and the lover looked for no other attraction in his -bride, than the peach-bloom on her cheek—the downcast softness of her -consenting eye.</p> - -<p>In after times, when Avarice ploughed the earth, and Ambition bestrode -it, the gem and the silken fleece, the various product of the loom, -and the Tyrian mystery of dyes, all united to give embellishments to -beauty, and splendor to majesty of mien. But even at that period, when -the east and south laid their decorating riches at the feet of woman, -we see, by the sculpture yet remaining to us, that the dames of Greece -(the then exemplars of the world) were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> true to the simple laws of just -taste. The amply-folding robe, cast round the harmonious form; the -modest clasp and zone on the bosom; the braided hair, or the veiled -head; these were the fashions alike of the wife of a Phocion, and the -mistress of an Alcibiades. A chastened taste ruled at their toilets; -and from that hour to this, the forms and modes of Greece have been -those of the poet, the sculptor, and the painter.</p> - -<p>Rome, queen of the world! the proud dictatress to Athenian and Spartan -dames, disdained not to array herself in their dignified attire; and -the statues of her virgins, her matrons, and her empresses, show, in -every portico of her ancient streets, the graceful fashions of her -Grecian province.</p> - -<p>The irruption of the Goths and Vandals made it needful for women to -assume a more repulsive garb. The flowing robe, the easy shape, the -soft, unfettered hair, gave place to skirts, shortened for flight or -contest—to the hardened vest, and head buckled in gold or silver.</p> - -<p>Thence, by a natural descent, have we the iron boddice, stiff -farthingale, and spiral coiffure, of the middle ages. The courts of -Charlemagne, of our Edwards, Henries, and Elizabeth, all exhibit -the figures of women as if in a state of siege. Such lines of -circumvallation and outworks; such impregnable bulwarks of whale-bone, -wood, and steel; such impassable mazes of gold, silver, silk, and -furbelows,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> met a man’s view, that, before he had time to guess it was -a woman that he saw, she had passed from his sight; and he only formed -a vague wish on the subject, by hearing, from an interested father or -brother, that the moving castle was one of the softer sex.</p> - -<p>These preposterous fashions disappeared, in England, a short time after -the Restoration; they had been a little on the wane during the more -classic, though distressful reign of Charles I.; and what the beautiful -pencil of Vandyke shows us, in the graceful dress of Lady Carlisle and -Sacharissa, was rendered yet more correspondent to the soft undulations -of nature, in the garments of the lovely, but frail beauties of the -Second Charles’s court. But as change too often is carried to extremes, -in this case the unzoned tastes of the English ladies thought no -freedom too free; their vestments were gradually unloosened of the -brace, until another touch would have exposed the wearer to no thicker -covering than the ambient air.</p> - -<p>The matron reign of Anne, in some measure, corrected this indecency. -But it was not till the accession of the House of Brunswick, that it -was finally exploded, and gave way by degrees to the ancient mode of -female fortification, by introducing the hideous Parisian fashion of -hoops, buckram stays, waists to the hips, screwed to the circumference -of a wasp, brocaded silks stiff with gold, shoes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> with heels so high as -to set the wearer on her toes; and heads, for quantity of false hair, -either horse or human, and height to outweigh, and perhaps outreach, -the Tower of Babel! These were the figures which our grandmothers -exhibited; nay, such was the appearance I myself made in my early -youth; and something like it may yet be seen at a drawing-room, on -court-days.</p> - -<p>When the arts of Sculpture and Painting, in their fine specimens from -the chisels of Greece and the pencils of Italy, were brought into this -country, taste began to mould the dress of our female youth after their -more graceful fashion. The health-destroying boddice was laid aside; -brocades and whale-bone disappeared; and the easy shape and flowing -drapery again resumed the rights of nature and of grace. The bright -hues of auburn, raven, or golden tresses, adorned the head in its -native simplicity, putting to shame the few powdered <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">toupees</i>, -which yet lingered on the brow of prejudice and deformity.</p> - -<p>Thus, for a short time, did the Graces indeed preside at the toilet of -the British beauty; but a strange caprice seems now to have dislodged -these gentle handmaids. Here stands affectation distorting the form -into a thousand unnatural shapes; and there, ill-taste, loading it with -grotesque ornaments, gathered (and mingled confusedly) from Grecian and -Roman models, from Egypt, China,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> Turkey, and Hindostan. All nations -are ransacked to equip a modern fine lady; and, after all, she may -perhaps strike a contemporary <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">beau</i> as <em>a fine lady</em>, but no -son of nature could, at a glance, possibly find out that she meant to -represent an <em>elegant woman</em>.</p> - -<p>To impress upon your minds, my fair friends, that symmetry of figure -ought ever to be accompanied by harmony of dress, and that there is a -certain propriety in habiliment adapted to form, age, and degree, shall -be the purport of my next observations.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="ON_THE_FEMALE_FORM">ON THE FEMALE FORM.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Who doth not feel, until his aching sight</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Faints into dimness with its own delight,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His changing cheek, his sinking heart, confess</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The might, the majesty of loveliness?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Byron.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>To preserve the health of the human form, is the first object of -consideration. This is of primary importance, for with its health we -necessarily maintain its symmetry, and improve its beauty.</p> - -<p>The foundation of a just proportion, in all its parts, must be laid -in infancy; for, “as the twig is bent, the tree’s inclined.” A light -dress, which gives freedom to the functions of life and action, is -the best adapted to permit unobstructed growth; for thence the young -fibres, uninterrupted by obstacles of art, will shoot harmoniously -into the form which nature drew. The garb of childhood should in all -respects be easy; not to impede its movements by ligatures on the -chest, the loins, the legs, or the arms. By this liberty, we shall -see the muscles of the limbs gradually assume the fine swell and -insertions which only unconstrained exercise can produce. The shape -will sway gracefully on the firmly poised waist; the chest will rise -in noble and healthy expanse; and the human figure will start forward -at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> the blooming age of youth, maturing into the full perfection of -unsophisticated nature.</p> - -<p>The lovely form of woman, in particular, thus educated, or rather thus -left to its natural bias, assumes a variety of interesting characters. -In one youthful figure, we see the lineaments of a wood-nymph; a form -slight and elastic in all its parts. The shape,</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Small by degrees, and beautifully less,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the soft bosom to the tender waist!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>A foot light as that of her whose flying step scarcely brushed the -“unbending corn;” and limbs, whose agile grace moved in gay harmony -with the turns of her swan-like neck and sparkling eyes.</p> - -<p>Another fair one appears with the chastened dignity of a vestal. -Her proportions are of a less aërial outline. As she draws near, we -perceive that the contour of her figure is on a broader and less -flexible scale than that of her more ethereal sister. Euphrosyne speaks -in the one, Melpomene in the other.</p> - -<p>Between these two lies the whole range of female character in form; -and, in proportion as the figure approaches the one extreme or the -other, we call it grave or gay, majestic or graceful. Not but that -the same person may, by a happy combination of charms, unite these -qualities in different degrees, as we sometimes see graceful majesty -and majestic<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> grace. Unless the commanding figure softens the amplitude -of its contour with a gentle elegance, it may possess a sort of regal -consequence, but it will be that of a heavy and harsh importance; -and, on the other hand, unless the slight and airy form, full of -youth and animal spirits, superadds to these attractions the grace of -a restraining dignity, her vivacity will be deemed levity, and her -activity the romping of a wild hoyden.</p> - -<p>Young women, therefore, when they present themselves to the world, must -not implicitly fashion their demeanors according to the levelling rules -of the generality of school-governesses; but, considering the character -of their own figures, allow their deportment, and select their dress, -to follow and correct the bias of nature.</p> - -<p>There is a class of female contour which bears such faint marks of any -positive character, that the best advice I can give to them who have -it, is to assume that of the sedate. Such an appearance is unobtrusive; -it is amiable, and not only secure from animadversion, but very likely -to awaken respect and love. Indeed, in all cases, a modest reserve is -essential to the perfection of feminine attraction.</p> - -<p>As it has been observed, that, during the period of youth, different -women wear a variety of characters, such as the gay, the grave, &c. -when it is found that even this loveliest season of life places<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> its -subjects in varying lights, how necessary does it seem that women -should carry this idea yet further by analogy, and recollect that she -has a summer as well as a spring, an autumn, and a winter! As the -aspect of the earth alters with the changes of the year, so does the -appearance of a woman adapt itself to the time which passes over her. -Like the rose, she buds, she blooms, she fades, she dies!</p> - -<p>When the freshness of virgin youth vanishes—when Delia passes her -teens, and approaches her thirtieth year, she may then consider her -day as at the meridian; but the sun which shines so brightly on her -beauties, declines while it displays them. A few short years, and the -jocund step, the airy habit, the sportive manner, must all be exchanged -for “faltering steps and slow.” Before this happens, it would be well -for her to remember that it is wiser to throw a shadow over her yet -unimpaired charms, than to hold them in the light till they are seen to -decay.</p> - -<p>Each age has an appropriate style of figure and pleasing; and it is -the business of discernment and taste to discover and maintain those -advantages in their due seasons.</p> - -<p>The general characteristics of youth, are meek dignity, chastened -sportiveness, and gentle seriousness. Middle age has the privilege of -preserving, unaltered, the graceful majesty and tender gravity which -may have marked its earlier years. But<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> the gay manners of the comic -muse must, in the advance of life, be discreetly softened down into -little more than cheerful amenity. Time marches on, and another change -takes place. Amiable as the former characteristics may be, they must -give way to the sober, the venerable aspect with which age, experience, -and “a soul commercing with the skies,” ought to adorn the silver hairs -of the Christian matron.</p> - -<p>Nature having maintained a harmony between the figure of woman and -her years, it is decorous that the consistency should extend to the -materials and fashion of her apparel. For youth to dress like age, -is an instance of bad taste seldom seen. But age, affecting the -airy garments of youth, the transparent <em>drapery of Cos</em>, and -the sportiveness of a girl, is an anachronism as frequent as it is -ridiculous.</p> - -<p>Virgin, bridal Beauty, when she arrays herself with taste, obeys an -end of her creation—that of increasing her charms in the eyes of some -virtuous lover, or the husband of her bosom. She is approved. But when -the wrinkled fair, the hoary-headed matron, attempts to equip herself -for conquest, to awaken sentiments which, when the bloom on her cheek -has disappeared, her rouge can never recall; and, despite of all her -efforts, we can perceive “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">memento mori</i>” written on her face, -then we cannot but deride her folly, or, in pity, counsel her rather -to seek for charms, the mental graces of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> Madame de Sevigné, than the -meretricious arts of Ninon de l’Enclos.</p> - -<p>But that, in some cases, wrinkles may be long warded off, and auburn -locks preserve a lengthened freshness, is not to be denied; and, where -nature prolongs the youth of a Helen or a Sarah, it is not for man -to see her otherwise. These are rare instances; and, in the minds of -rational women, ought rather to excite wonder, than desire to emulate -their extended reign. But what ought to be, we know is not always -adopted. St. Evremond has told us, that “a woman’s last sighs are for -her beauty;” and what this wit has advanced, the sex has ever been -too ready to confirm. A strange kind of art, a sort of sorcery, is -prescribed by tradition, and in books, in the form of cosmetics, &c., -to preserve female charms in perpetual youth. But I fear that, until -these composts can be concocted in Medea’s caldron, they will never -have any better effect than exercising the faith and patience of the -credulous dupes, who expect to find the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">elixir vitæ</i> in any -mixture under heaven.</p> - -<p>The rules which I would lay down for the preservation of the bloom of -beauty, during its natural life, are few, and easy of access. And, -besides having advantage of speaking from my own wide and minute -observation, I have the authorities of the most eminent physicians of -every age, to support my argument.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p> - -<p>The secret of preserving beauty lies in three things,—temperance, -exercise, and cleanliness.—From these few heads, I hope much good -instruction may be deduced. <em>Temperance</em> includes moderation at -table, and in the enjoyment of what the world calls pleasure. A young -beauty, were she fair as Hebe, and elegant as the Goddess of Love -herself, would soon lose these charms by a course of inordinate eating, -drinking, and late hours.</p> - -<p>I guess that my delicate young readers will start at this last -sentence, and wonder how it can be that any well-bred woman should -think it possible that pretty ladies could be guilty of either of the -two first-mentioned excesses. But, when I speak of <em>inordinate</em> -eating, &c., I do not mean feasting like a glutton, or drinking to -intoxication. My objection is not more against the quantity than the -quality of the dishes which constitute the usual repast of women of -fashion. Their breakfasts not only set forth tea and coffee, but -chocolate, and <em>hot</em> bread and butter. Both of these latter -articles, when taken constantly, are hostile to health and female -delicacy. The heated grease, which is their principal ingredient, -deranges the stomach; and, by creating or increasing bilious disorders, -gradually overspreads the fair skin with a wan or yellow hue. After -this meal, a long and exhausting fast not unfrequently succeeds, from -ten in the morning till six or seven in the evening, when dinner -is served<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> up; and the half-famished beauty sits down to sate a -keen appetite with Cayenne soups, fish, French patées steaming with -garlic, roast and boiled meat, game, tarts, sweetmeats, ices, fruits, -&c. &c. &c. How must the constitution suffer under the digestion of -this <em>melange</em>! How does the heated complexion bear witness to -the combustion within! And, when we consider that the beverage she -takes to dilute this mass of food, and assuage the consequent fever -in her stomach, is not merely water from the spring, but champagne, -madeira, and other wines, foreign and domestic, you cannot wonder -that I should warn the inexperienced creature against intemperance. -The superabundance of aliment which she takes in at this time, is not -only destructive of beauty, but the period of such repletion is full -of other dangers. Long fasting wastes the powers of digestion, and -weakens the springs of life. In this enfeebled state, at the hour when -nature intends we should prepare for general repose, we put our stomach -and animal spirits to extraordinary exertion. Our vital functions are -overtasked and overloaded;—we become hectic—for observation strongly -declares that invalid and delicate persons should rarely eat solids -after three o’clock in the day, as fever is generally the consequence; -and thus, almost every complaint that distresses and destroys the human -frame, may be engendered.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“When hunger calls, obey; nor often wait</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till hunger sharpen to corrosive pain;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For the keen appetite will feast beyond</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What nature well can bear; and one extreme</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ne’er without danger meets its own reverse.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Besides, when we add to this evil the present mode of bracing the -digestive part of the body, in what is called <em>long stays</em>, to -what an extent must reach the baneful effects of a protracted and -abundant repast? Indeed, I am fully persuaded that long fasting, late -dining, and the excessive repletion then taken into the exhausted -stomach, with the tight pressure of steel and whalebone on the most -susceptible parts of the frame then called into action, and the -midnight, nay, morning hours, of lingering pleasure, are the positive -causes of colds taken, bilious fevers, consumptions, and atrophies. By -the means enumerated, the firm texture of the constitution is broken, -and the principles of health being in a manner decomposed, the finest -parts fly off, and the dregs maintain the poor survivor of herself, -in a sad kind of artificial existence. Delicate proportion gives -place either to miserable leanness or shapeless fat. The once fair -skin assumes a pallid rigidity, or a bloated redness, which the vain -possessor would still regard as the roses of health and beauty.</p> - -<p>To repair these ravages, comes the aid of padding, to give shape where -there is none; long stays,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> to compress into form the chaos of flesh; -and paints of all hues, to rectify the disorder of the complexion. But -useless are these attempts. If dissipation, disease, and immoderation, -have wrecked the fair vessel of female charms, it is not in the power -of Esculapius himself to refit the shattered bark; or of the Syrens, -with all their songs and wiles, to conjure its battered sides from the -rocks, and make it ride the seas in gallant trim again.</p> - -<p>It is with pleasure that I turn from this ruin of all that is -beauteous and lovely, to the cheering hope of preserving every charm -unimpaired; and by means which the most ingenuous mind need not blush -to acknowledge.</p> - -<p>The rules, I repeat, are few. First, <em>Temperance</em>: a well-timed -use of the table, and so moderate a pursuit of pleasure, that the -midnight ball, assembly, and theatre, shall not too frequently recur.</p> - -<p>My next specific is that of gentle and daily <em>Exercise</em> in the -open air. Nature teaches us, in the gambols and sportiveness of the -young of the lower animals, that bodily exertion is necessary for the -growth, vigor, and symmetry of the animal frame; while the too studious -scholar, and the indolent man of luxury, exhibit in themselves the -pernicious consequences of the want of exercise.</p> - -<p>This may be almost always obtained, either on horseback or on foot, -in fine weather; and when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> that is denied, in a carriage. Country -air in the fields, or in gardens, when breathed at proper hours, -is an excellent bracer of the nerves, and a sure brightener of the -complexion. But these hours are neither under the mid-day sun in -summer, when its beams scorch the skin and ferment the blood; nor -beneath the dews of evening, when the imperceptible damps, saturating -the thinly-clad body, send the wanderer home infected with the disease -that is to lay her, ere a returning spring, in the silent tomb! Both -these periods are pregnant with danger to delicacy and carelessness.</p> - -<p>The morning, about two or three hours after sunrise, is the most -salubrious time for a vigorous walk. But, as the day advances, if -you choose to prolong the sweet enjoyment of the open air, then the -thick wood or shady lane will afford refreshing shelter from the too -intense heat of the sun. In short, the morning and evening dew, and the -unrepelled blaze of a summer noon, must alike be ever avoided as the -enemies of health and beauty.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Fly, if you can, these violent extremes</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of air; the wholesome is nor moist nor dry.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Armstrong.</span></span><br /> -</p> - -<p><em>Cleanliness</em>, my last recipe, (and which is, like the others, -applicable to all ages,) is of most powerful efficacy. It maintains the -limbs in their pliancy, the skin in its softness, the complexion in -its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> lustre, the eyes in their brightness, the teeth in their purity, -and the constitution in its fairest vigor. To promote cleanliness, I -can recommend nothing preferable to bathing.</p> - -<p>The frequent use of tepid baths is not more grateful to the sense than -it is salutary to the health, and to beauty. By such ablution, all -accidental corporeal impurities are thrown off; cutaneous obstructions -removed; and while the surface of the body is preserved in its original -brightness, many threatening disorders are removed or prevented. Colds -in the young, and rheumatic and paralytic affections in the old, are -all dispersed by this simple and delightful antidote. By such means the -women of the East render their skins softer than that of the tenderest -babes in this climate, and preserve that health which sedentary -confinement would otherwise destroy.</p> - -<p>This delightful and delicate Oriental fashion is now, I am happy to -say, prevalent almost all over the continent. From the Villas of Italy, -to the Chateaux of France; from the Castles of Germany, to the Palaces -of Muscovy; we may everywhere find the marble bath under the vaulted -portico or the sheltering shade. Every house of every nobleman or -gentleman, in every nation under the sun, excepting Britain, possesses -one of those genial friends to cleanliness and comfort. The generality -of English ladies seem to be ignorant of the use of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> any bath larger -than a wash-hand basin. This is the more extraordinary to me, when I -contemplate the changeable temperature of the climate, and consider -the corresponding alterations in the bodily feelings of the people. -By abruptly checking the secretions, it produces those chronic and -cutaneous diseases so peculiar to our nation, and so heavy a cause of -complaint.</p> - -<p>This very circumstance renders baths more necessary in England than -anywhere else; for as this is the climate most subject to sudden heats -and colds, rains and fogs, tepid immersion is the only sovereign remedy -against their usual morbific effects. Indeed, so impressed am I with -the consequence of their regimen, that I strongly recommend to every -lady to make a bath as indispensable an article in her house as a -looking-glass:</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“This is the purest exercise of health,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The kind refresher of the summer heats;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Even from the body’s purity, the mind</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Receives a secret sympathetic aid.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>It may be remarked, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en passant</i>, that rubbing of the skin in -the bath is an excellent substitute for <em>exercise</em>, when that is -impracticable out-of-doors.</p> - -<p>I must not draw this chapter to a close without offering my fair -readers a few remarks on the malignant influence exercised on the -features by an ill-regulated temper. The face is the index of the mind. -On its expressive page are recorded in characters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> lasting as life -itself, the gloom of sullenness, the arrogance of pride, the withering -of envy, or the storm of anger; for, even after the fury of the tempest -has subsided, its fearful devastations remain behind.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“From anger she may then be freed,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But peevishness and spleen succeed.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The first emotions of anger are apparent to the most superficial -observer. Every indulgence in its paroxysms, both adds strength to its -authority, and engraves its history in deeper relief on the forehead -of its votaries. What a pity it is that antiquity provides us with -no authentic portrait of the illustrious Xantippe! for I am sure the -features of that lady would lend their ready testimony to the value of -my admonitions.</p> - -<p>When good-humor and vivacity reign within, the face is lighted up with -benignant smiles; where peace and gentleness are the tenants of the -bosom, the countenance beams with mildness and complacency. Evil temper -has, with truth, been called a more terrible enemy to beauty than the -small-pox. I beseech you, therefore, as you value the preservation of -your charms, to resist the dominion of this rude despoiler, to foster -and encourage the feelings of kindliness and good-humor, and to repress -every emotion of a contrary character.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span></p> - -<p>I shall conclude this important subject by remarking with the -Spectator, that “no woman can be handsome by the force of features -alone, any more than she can be witty only by the gift of speech.”</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="THE_SAME_SUBJECT_OF_FEMALE_BEAUTY_MORE_EXPLICITLY_CONSIDERED">THE SAME SUBJECT, OF FEMALE BEAUTY, MORE EXPLICITLY CONSIDERED.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Let Art no useless ornament display,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But just explain what Nature meant to say.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Young.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>So far, my friends, I have thrown together my sentiments on the -aggregate of the female form: I shall now descend to particulars, and -leave it to your judgments to adopt my suggestions according to the -correspondence with your different characters.</p> - -<p>The preservation of an agreeable complexion (which always presupposes -health) is not the most insignificant of exterior charms. Though we -yield due admiration to regularity of features, (the Grecian contour -being usually so called,) yet when we consider them merely in the -outline, our pleasure can go no further than that of a cold critic, -who regards the finely proportioned lineaments of life as he would -those of a statue. It is complexion that lends animation to a picture; -it is complexion that gives spirit to the human countenance. Even the -language of the eyes loses half its eloquence, if they speak from the -obscurity of an inexpressive skin. The life-blood in the mantling -cheek; the ever-varying hues of nature glowing in the face, “as if her -very body thought;” these are alike the ensigns<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> of beauty and the -heralds of the mind; and the effect is, an impression of loveliness, an -attraction, which fills the beholder with answering animation and the -liveliest delight.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“’Tis not a lip or eye we beauty call,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But the joint force and full result of all.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>As a Juno-featured maid with a dull skin, by most people, will only -be coldly pronounced <em>critically</em> handsome; so a young woman -with very indifferent features, but a fine complexion, will, from ten -persons out of twelve, receive spontaneous and warm admiration.</p> - -<p>The experience (when once we admit the proposition that it is -<em>right</em> to keep the casket bright which contains so precious a gem -as the soul) must induce us to take precautions against the injuries -continually threatening the tender surface of the skin. It may be next -to an impossibility, to change the color of an eye, to alter the form -of the nose, or the turn of the mouth; but though Heaven has given us a -complexion which vies with the flowers of the field, we yet have it in -our power to render it dingy by neglect, coarse through intemperance, -and sallow by dissipation.</p> - -<p>Such excesses must therefore be avoided; for, though there may be a -something in the pallid cheek which excites interest, yet, without a -certain appearance of health, there can never be an impression<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> of -loveliness. A fine, clear skin, gives an assurance of the inherent -residence of three admirable graces to beauty; Wholesomeness, Neatness, -and Cheerfulness. Every fair means ought to be sought to maintain these -vouchers, for not only health of body, but health of mind.</p> - -<p>I have already given some hints to this purpose; at least as far as -relates to the purity of the alimentary springs of sublunary life: -those which are in the heart, and point through time into eternity, -must not be less observed; for, unless its thoughts are kept in -corresponding order and the passions held in peace, all prescriptions -will be vain to keep those boiling fluids in check, which, in spite of -Roman fard and balm of Mecca, will spread themselves over the skin, -and there show an outward and visible sign of the malignant spirit -within. Independent of these intellectual causes of corporeal defects, -disorders of the skin, arising from accidental circumstances, are more -frequent in this country than in any other; and the fashions of the -day are still more inimical to the complexion of its inhabitants, than -the climate. The frequent and sudden changes from heat to cold, by -abruptly exciting or repressing the regular secretions of the skin, -roughen its texture, injure its hue, and often deform it with unseemly, -though transitory, eruptions. All this is increased by the habit ladies -have of exposing themselves unveiled, and frequently without bonnets, -in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> the open air. The head and face have then no defence against the -attacks of the surrounding atmosphere, and the effects are obvious. -The barouche, for this reason, and the more consequential one of -subjecting its inmates to dangerous chills, is a fatal addition to the -variety of English equipages. Our autumnal evenings, with this carriage -and our gossamer apparel, have already sent many of my young female -acquaintance to untimely graves.</p> - -<p>To remedy these evils, I would strenuously recommend, for health’s -sake, as well as for beauty, that no lady should make one in any -riding, airing, or walking party, without putting on her head something -capable of affording both shelter and warmth. Shakspeare, the poet -of the finest taste in female charms, makes Viola regret having been -obliged to “throw her sun-expelling mask away!” Such a defence I do not -pretend to recommend; but I consider a veil a useful as well as elegant -part of dress; it can be worn to suit any situation; open or close, -just as the heat or cold may render it necessary.</p> - -<p>The custom which some ladies have, when warm, of powdering their faces, -washing them with cold water, or throwing off their bonnets, that they -may cool the faster, are all very destructive habits. Each of them is -sufficient (when it meets with any predisposition in the blood) to -spread a surfeit over the skin, and make a once beautiful face hideous -forever.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span></p> - -<p>The person, when overheated, should always be allowed to cool -gradually, and of itself, without any more violent assistant than, -perhaps, the gentle undulation of the neighboring air by a fan. -Streams of wind from opened doors and windows, or what is called <em>a -thorough air</em>, are all bad and highly dangerous applications. -These impatient remedies for heat are often resorted to in balls and -crowded assemblies; and as frequently as they are used, we hear of -sore throats, coughs, and fevers. While it is the fashion to fill a -drawing-room like a theatre, similar means ought to be adopted, to -prevent the ill effects of the consequent corrupted atmosphere, and the -temptation to seek relief by dangerous resources. Instead of the open -balcony, and yawning door, we should see ventilators in every window; -and thus feel a constant succession of pure and temperate air.</p> - -<p>Excessive heat, as well as excessive cold, is apt to cause distempers -of the skin; and as the fine lady, by her strange habits, is as prone -to such changes as the desert-wandering gipsy, it is requisite that she -should be particularly careful to correct the deforming consequences of -her fashionable exposures. For her usual ablution, night and morning, -nothing is so fine an emollient for any rigidity or disease of the -face as a wash of French or white brandy, and rose-water; the spirit -making only one-third of the mixture. The brandy keeps up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> that gentle -action of the skin which is necessary to the healthy appearance of -its parts. It also cleanses the surface. The rose-water corrects the -drying property of the spirit, leaving the skin in a natural, soft, and -flexible state. Where white or French brandy cannot be obtained, half -the quantity of spirits of wine will tolerably supply its place.</p> - -<p>The eloquent effect of complexion will, I hope, my fair friends, obtain -your pardon for my having confined your attention so long to what is -generally thought (though in contradiction to what is felt) a trifling -feature, if so I may be allowed to name it.</p> - -<p>I am aware of your expectations, that I would give the precedence, -in this dissertation, to the eye. I subscribe to its supereminent -dignity; for none can deny that it is regarded by all nations as the -faithful interpreter of the mind, as the window of the soul, the index -in which we read each varied emotion of the heart; it is, indeed, the -“spirit’s throne of light.” But how increased an expression does this -intelligent feature convey, when aided by the glowing tints of an -eloquent complexion! Indeed, it is the happy coincidence of the eye and -the complexion which forms the strongest point of what the French call -<em>contenance</em>.</p> - -<p>The animated changes of sensibility are nowhere more apparent than in -the transparent surface of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> clear skin. Who has not perceived, and -admired, the rising blush of modesty enrich the cheek of a lovely girl, -and, in the sweet effusion, most gratefully discern the true witness -of the purity within? Who has not been sensible to the sudden glow on -the face, which announces, ere the lips open, or the eye sparkles, the -approach of some beloved object? Nay, will not even the sound of his -name paint the blooming cheek with deeper roses?</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Who hath not owned, with rapture-smitten frame,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The power of grace, the magic of a name?”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Shall we reverse the picture? I have shown how the soul proclaims her -joy through its wondrous medium; shall she speak her sorrows too? Then -let us call to mind, who have beheld the deadly paleness of her who -learns the unexpected destruction of her dearest possessions! Perhaps -a husband, a lover, or a brother, mingled with the slain, or fallen, -untimely, by some dreadful accident. Sudden partings like these</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Press the life from out young hearts.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>We see the darkened, stagnant shade which denotes the despair-stricken -soul. We behold the livid hues of approaching frenzy, or the blacker -stain of settled melancholy! Heloisa’s face is paler than the marble -she kneels upon. In all cases the mind shines through the body; and -according as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> the medium is dense or transparent, so the light within -seems dull or clear.</p> - -<p>Advocate as I am for a fine complexion, you must perceive, that it is -for the <em>real</em>, and not the <em>spurious</em>. The foundation of -my argument, <em>the skin’s power of expression</em>, would be entirely -lost, were I to tolerate that fictitious, that dead beauty, which is -composed of white paints and enamelling. In the first place, as all -applications of this kind are as a mask on the skin, they can never, -but at a distant glance, impose for a moment on a discerning eye. -But why should I say a <em>discerning eye</em>? No eye that is of the -commonest apprehension can look on a face bedaubed with white paint, -pearl powder, or enamel, and be deceived for a minute into a belief -that so inanimate a “whited wall” is the human skin. No flush of -pleasure, no shudder of pain, no thrilling of hope, can be descried -beneath the encrusted mould; all that passes within is concealed behind -the mummy surface. Perhaps the painted creature may be admired by an -artist as a well-executed picture; but no man will seriously consider -her as a handsome woman.</p> - -<p>White painting is, therefore, an ineffectual, as well as dangerous -practice. The proposed end is not obtained; and, as poison lurks under -every layer, the constitution wanes in alarming proportion as the -supposed charms increase.</p> - -<p>What is said against white paint, does not oppose,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> with the same -force, the use of red. Merely rouging leaves three parts of the face, -and the whole of the neck and arms, to their natural hues. Hence, the -language of the heart, expressed by the general complexion, is not yet -entirely obstructed. Besides, while <em>all</em> white paints are ruinous -to health, (occasioning paralytic affections, and premature death,) -there are some red paints which may be used with perfect safety.</p> - -<p>A little vegetable rouge tinging the cheek of a delicate woman, who, -from ill health or an anxious mind, loses her roses, may be excusable; -and so transparent is the texture of such rouge, (when unadulterated -with lead,) that when the blood does mount to the face, it speaks -through the slight covering, and enhances the fading bloom. But, though -the occasional use of rouge may be tolerated, yet my fair friends must -understand that it is only <em>tolerated</em>. Good sense must so preside -over its application, that its tint on the cheek may always be fainter -than that nature’s pallet would have painted. A violent rouged woman -is one of the most disgusting objects to the eye. The excessive red on -the face gives a coarseness to every feature, and a general fierceness -to the countenance, which transforms the elegant lady of fashion into a -vulgar harridan.</p> - -<p>While I recommend that the rouge we sparingly permit, should be laid on -with delicacy, my readers must not suppose that I intend such advice -as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> means of making the art a deception. It seems to me so slight -and so innocent an apparel of the face, (a kind of decent veil thrown -over the cheek, rendered too eloquent of grief by the pallidness of -secret sorrow,) that I cannot see any shame in the most ingenuous -female acknowledging that she occasionally rouges. It is often, like a -cheerful smile on the face of an invalid, put on to give comfort to an -anxious friend.</p> - -<p>That our applications to this restorer of our usual looks should not -feed, like a worm, on the bud it affects to brighten, no rouge must -ever be admitted that is impregnated with even the smallest particle -of ceruse. It is the lead which is the poison of white paint; and its -mixture with the red would render that equally noxious.</p> - -<p>There are various ways of putting on rouge. Frenchwomen in general, and -those who imitate them, daub it on from the bottom of the side of the -face up to the very eye, even till it meets the lower eye-lash, and -creeps all over the temples. This is a hideous practice. It is obvious -that it must produce deformity instead of beauty, and, as I said -before, would metamorphose the gentlest-looking fair Hebe into a fierce -Medusa.</p> - -<p>For brunettes, a slight touch of simple carmine on the cheek, in its -dry powder state, is amply sufficient. Taste will teach the hand to -soften the color by due degrees, till it almost imperceptibly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> blends -with the natural hue of the skin. For fairer complexions, letting down -the vivid red of the carmine with a mixture of fine hair powder, till -it suits the general appearance of the skin, will have the desired -effect.</p> - -<p>The article of rouge, on the grounds I have mentioned, is the only -species of positive art a woman of integrity or of delicacy can permit -herself to use with her face. Her motives for imitating the bloom of -health, may be of the most honorable nature, and she can with candor -avow them. On the reverse, nothing but selfish vanity, and falsehood of -mind, could prevail on a woman to enamel her skin with white paints, to -lacker her lips with vermilion, to draw the meandering vein through the -fictitious alabaster with as fictitious a dye.</p> - -<p>Penciling eye-brows, staining them, &c., are too clumsy tricks of -attempted deception, for any other emotion to be excited in the mind -of the beholder, than contempt for the bad taste and wilful blindness -which could ever deem them passable for a moment. There is a lovely -harmony in nature’s tints, which we seldom attain by our added -chromatics. The exquisitely fair complexion is generally accompanied -with blue eyes, light hair, and light eye-brows and lashes. So far -all is right. The delicacy of one feature is preserved in effect and -beauty by the corresponding softness of the other. A young creature, -so formed, appears to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> eye of taste like the azure heavens, seen -through the fleecy clouds on which the brightness of day delights to -dwell. But take this fair image of the celestial regions, draw a black -line over her softly-tinctured eyes, stain their beamy fringes with -a sombre hue, and what do you produce? Certainly a fair face with -<em>dark</em> eye-brows! But that feature, which is an embellishment to a -brunette, when seen on the forehead of the fair beauty, becomes, if not -an absolute deformity, so great a drawback from her perfections, that -the harmony is gone; and, as a proof, a painter would immediately turn -from the change with disgust.</p> - -<p>Nature, in almost every case, is our best guide. Hence the native -color of our own hair is, in general, better adapted to our own -complexions than a wig of a contrary hue. A thing may be beautiful in -itself, which, with certain combinations, may be rendered hideous. For -instance, a golden-tressed wig on the head of a brown woman, makes -both ridiculous. By the same rule, all fantastic tricks played with -the mouth or eyes, or motions of the head, are absurd, and ruinous to -beauty. They are solecisms in the works of nature.</p> - -<p>In Turkey, it happened to be the taste of one of its great monarchs, -to esteem large and dark-lashed eyes as the most lovely. From that -time, all the fair slaves of that voluptuous region, when nature has -not bestowed “the wild-stag eye in sable ringlets<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> rolling,” supply the -deficiency with circles of antimony; and so, instead of a real charm, -they impart a strange artificial ghastliness to their appearance.</p> - -<p>Our countrywomen, in like manner, when a celebrated <em>belle</em> came -under the pencil of Sir Peter Lely, who exhibited to her emulative -rivals the sweet peculiarities of her long and languishing eye, they -must needs all have the same; and not a lady could appear in public, -be her visual orbs large or small, bright or dull, but she must affect -the soft sleepiness, the tender and slowly-moving roll of her subduing -exemplar. But though Sir Peter’s gallant pencil deigned to compliment -his numerous sitters by drowning their strained aspects after the model -of the peerless <em>belle</em>, yet, in place of the nature-stamped -look of modest languishment, he could not but often recognize the -disgraceful leer and hideous squint. Let every woman be content to -leave her eyes as she found them, and to make that use of them which -was their design. They were intended to see with, and artlessly express -the feelings of a chaste and benevolent heart. Let them speak this -unsophisticated language, and beauty will beam from the orb which -affectation would have rendered odious.</p> - -<p>Analogy of reasoning will bring forward similar remarks with regard to -the movements of the mouth, which many ladies use, not to speak with or -to admit<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> food, but to show dimples and display white teeth. Wherever -a desire for exhibition is discovered, a disposition to disapprove -and ridicule arises in the spectator. The pretensions of the vain are -a sort of assumption over others, which arms the whole world against -them. But, after all, “What are the honors of a painted skin?” I hope -it will be distinctly understood by my fair friends, that I do not, by -any means, give a general license to painting; on the contrary, that -even rouge should only be resorted to in cases of absolute necessity.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="GENERAL_THOUGHTS_ON_DRESS_AND_PERSONAL_DECORATION">GENERAL THOUGHTS ON DRESS AND PERSONAL DECORATION.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Costly your habit as your purse can buy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But not expressed in fancy; rich, not gaudy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For the apparel oft proclaims the woman.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Shakspeare.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>Every person of just observation, who looks back on the fashions of our -immediate ancestors, and compares their style of dress with that of the -present times, will not hesitate to acknowledge the evident improvement -in ease and gracefulness. When I say this, I mean to eulogize the -taste which yet prevails with persons of real judgment, to maintain -the <em>ease and gracefulness</em> of our assumed Grecian mode, against -a new race of stay-makers, corset-inventors, &c., who have just armed -themselves with whalebone, steel, and buckram, to the utter destruction -of all the naturally-elegant shapes which fall into their hands.</p> - -<p>Just before this attempted counter-revolution in the world of fashion, -we found that our <em>belles</em> had gradually exploded the stiffness -and formality which distinguished the brocaded dame of 1700, from the -lawn-robed fair of the nineteenth century. In former ages it seemed -requisite that every lady should cut out her garments by a certain -erected standard.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> All seemed in a livery. One mode for gown, cap, -and hat prevailed; and though the materials might be more costly in -one than another, the outline was the same; and thus peculiar taste -and fine form were lost, in the general prescription of one reigning -costume.</p> - -<p>But in our days, an Englishwoman has the extensive privilege of -arraying herself in whatever garb may best suit her figure or her -fancy. The fashions of every nation and of every era are open to her -choice. One day she may appear as the Egyptian Cleopatra, then a -Grecian Helen; next morning, the Roman Cornelia; or, if these styles be -too august for her taste, there are sylphs, goddesses, nymphs of every -region, in earth or air, ready to lend her their wardrobe. In short, no -land or age is permitted to withhold its costume from the adoption of -an Englishwoman of fashion.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Unnumbered treasures ope at once, and here</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The various offsprings of the world appear;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This casket India’s glowing gems unlocks,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And all Arabia breathes from yonder box.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>With such a variety to choose from, she has no excuse, if she unite -not the excellences of them all. It was so that the sculptor of Paphos -formed the “beauteous statue that enchanted the world.” And in like -manner female taste accomplishes its object. A judicious dresser will -select from each mode that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> which is most distinguishable for utility -and grace, and, combining, adopt them to advantage. This is the art -which every woman who casts a thought on these subjects, ought to -endeavor to attain.</p> - -<p>Elegant dressing is not found in expense; money without judgment may -load, but never can adorn. You may show profusion without grace: You -may cover a neck with pearls, a head with jewels, hands and arms with -rings, bracelets, and trinkets, and yet produce no effect, but having -emptied some merchant’s counter upon your person. The best chosen dress -is that which so harmonizes with the figure as to make the raiment pass -unobserved. The result of the finest toilet should be an <em>elegant -woman</em>, not an elegantly dressed woman. Where a perfect whole is -intended, it is a sign of defect in the execution, when the details -first present themselves to observation.</p> - -<p>In short, the secret of dressing lies in simplicity, and a certain -adaptation to your figure, your rank, your circumstances. To dress -well on these principles—and they are the only just ones—does not -require that extravagant attention to so trivial an object, as is -usually exhibited by persons who make the toilet a study. When ladies -place the spell of their attraction in their clothes, we generally -see them arrayed in robes of a thousand makes and dyes, and curiously -constructed of materials brought from, Heaven knows where. Thus, much -time,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> thought, and wealth, are wasted on a comparatively worthless -object. To lavish many of the precious hours of life in the invention -and arrangement of dress, is as criminal an offence as to exhaust the -finances of your husband or parents by a thriftless expenditure on its -component parts.</p> - -<p>The taste I wish to inculcate, is that nicely-poised estimation of -things, which shows it “worth our while to do <em>well</em>, what it is -ever worth our while <em>to do</em>.” This disposition originates in a -correct and delicate mind, and forms a judgment which makes elegance -inseparable from propriety; and extending itself from great objects to -small, reaches the most apparently insignificant; and thus, even in the -change of the morning and evening attire, displays to the considerate -observer a very intelligible index of the wearer’s well-regulated mind.</p> - -<p>“Show me a lady’s dressing-room,” says a certain writer, “and I will -tell you what manner of woman she is.” Chesterfield, also, is of -opinion, that a sympathy goes through every action of our lives: he -declares, that he could not help conceiving some idea of people’s sense -and character from the dress in which they appeared when introduced -to him. He was so great an advocate for pleasing externals, that he -often said, he would rather see a young person too much than too -little dressed, excess, on the fopish side, wearing off with time and -reflection; but if a youth be negligent at twenty, it is probable he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> -will be a sloven at forty, and disgustingly dirty at fifty. However -this may be with the other sex, I beg leave to observe, that I never -yet met with a woman whose general style of dress was chaste, elegant, -and appropriate, that I did not find, on further acquaintance, to be, -in disposition and mind, an object to admire and love.</p> - -<p>This correspondence between the thoughts and the raiment being -established, what was before insignificant becomes of consequence; -and, being rightly understood, good sense will be as careful not to -disparage her discretion, by extravagant dress, as she would to evince -a sordid mind, by dirt and rags.</p> - -<p>I think I see you, my friends, smile, incredulous, at the last -sentence. What gentlewoman, you exclaim, who is above the most abject -pecuniary embarrassments, can ever have chance of being so apparelled? -A desire of singularity is a sufficient answer. There is a race of -women, who, priding themselves on their superior rank, or wealth, or -talents, affect to despise what they deem the adventitious aids of -dress. Their appearance, in consequence, is frequently as ridiculous -as disgusting. When this folly is seen in female authors, or what -is much the same thing, ladies professing a particularly literary -taste, we can at once trace its motives,—a conceited negligence of -outward attractions, and a determination to raise themselves in the -opinions of men, by displaying a contempt for what they deem the vain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> -occupations of meaner souls. Wishing to be thought superior to founding -any regard on external ornament, they forget external decency; and by -slatternliness and affectation, render what is called a learned woman, -a kind of scare-crow to her own sex, and a laughing-stock to the other. -This error is not so common now with bookish ladies as it was in the -beginning of the last century. Then our sex did, indeed, show that “a -little learning is a dangerous thing.” They did not imbibe sufficient -to imbue them with a sense of its real properties, to show them causes -and effects, to make them understand themselves, and close the book in -humility. They, poor short-sighted creatures! exchanged the innocent -ignorance of Eve for the empoisoned apple, which, under the cheat of -displaying knowledge, fills the eater with a vain self-conceit, while -it more openly exposes her mental nakedness to every eye.</p> - -<p>The absurdity of their deductions is so obvious, that one wonders how -any woman could fall into such an error. Who among them but would think -it the height of folly to place over the door of a museum, to which -the proprietor wished to attract visitors, the effigy of a monster, so -disgusting as to deter men from entering to see what might otherwise -have afforded them much pleasure? Such effigies might the slip-shod -muses of the days of Anne have given of themselves; but most of the -modern female votaries of Minerva, aware of the advantages of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> -prepossessing appearance, mingle with their incense to the Goddess a -few flowers to the Paphian Graces; and, that they gain by the devotion, -none who have been admitted to the acquaintance of our British Sapphos -and Corinnas, can deny.</p> - -<p>There is another class of persons, who neglect their exterior on -account of the consequence they derive from their rank; but instances -on such a plea are few, in comparison with the insolent slovenliness of -the opposite sex, when, springing from the lower degrees in society, -they amass or acquire large fortunes. They aim at notoriety; and common -means, such as expense and show, not raising them into an <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">eclat</i> -beyond their equally rich contemporaries, ambition leads them to seek -notice by the assumption of a garb of almost pauper negligence. I -remember, some years since, when on a visit at a large seaport town -in the north of England, to have been attracted by seeing at the door -of a handsome house in one of the principal streets an elegant modern -chariot. I stopped, and, to my surprise, saw step into it an old man -of the meanest and most dirty appearance. A few days afterwards, while -viewing the docks with a gentleman who was an inhabitant of the place, -I observed the same wretched-looking person conversing familiarly -with a man of the first consequence in the town. I inquired of my -friend the name and business of the shabby old fellow, and received -the following brief<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> answer. He had been taken, when a boy, from very -indigent parents residing in a northern village; and, being a smart -lad, was employed in the drudgery of a banking-house belonging to his -benefactors. By assiduous application, and a deep cunning, aided by -what is vulgarly called <em>good luck</em>, he gradually advanced himself -to be one of the firm. Of course, his fortune then rose with the house, -and his wealth, at the time I saw him, was computed at upwards of a -hundred thousand pounds. Yet I am sure that an old-clothesman would not -have given half-a-crown for the whole of the apparel (or rather rags) -upon his back.</p> - -<p>Now, as it is too often the custom with people, in forming an opinion, -seldom to go beyond the surface, this modern <span class="smcap">Avaro</span> was, by -many, termed <em>a man without pride</em>! Few gave a guess at the real -motive of all this studied negligence; but those who investigate the -human character, and trace actions to the secret springs of the heart, -saw, in this inattention to personal decency, the very acmé of personal -pride. I shall prove my position by repeating the usual reply of this -old man, when any of his acquaintance ventured to inquire why he wore -such tattered garments. “Why,” he would answer, “were I to dress as -smart as other people, no one would know T. W. from another man.”</p> - -<p>Men may fall into this mistaken road to distinction, but women who have -suddenly become wealthy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> seldom do. A passion for dress is so common -with the sex, that it ought not to be very surprising, when opulence, -vanity, and bad taste meet, that we should find extravagance and tawdry -profusion the fruits of the union. And it would be well if a humor for -expensive dress were always confined to the fortunate daughters of -Plutus; but we too often find this ruinous spirit in women of slender -means, and then, what ought to be one of the embellishments of life -is turned into a splendid mischief. Alas! my friends, it must come -under your own observations, that often does the foolish virgin, or -infatuated matron, sell her peace or honor for a ring or a scarf!</p> - -<p>A woman of principle and prudence must be consistent in the style and -quality of her attire; she must be careful that her expenditure does -not exceed the limits of her allowance; she must be aware, that it -is not the girl who lavishes the most money on her apparel that is -the best arrayed. Frequent instances have I known, where young women, -with a little good taste, ingenuity, and economy, have maintained -a much better appearance than ladies of three times their fortune. -No treasury is large enough to supply indiscriminate profusion; and -scarcely any purse is too scanty for the uses of life, when managed -by a careful hand. Few are the situations in which a woman can be -placed, whether she be married or single, where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> some attention to -thrift is not expected. High rank requires adequate means to support -its consequence—ostentatious wealth, a superabundance to maintain -its domineering pretensions; and the middle class, when virtue is its -companion, looks to economy to allow it to throw its mite into the lap -of charity.</p> - -<p>Hence we see, that hardly any woman, however related, can have a right -to independent, uncontrolled expenditure; and that, to do her duty in -every sense of the word, she must learn to understand and exercise the -graces of economy. This quality will be a gem in her husband’s eyes; -for, though most of the money-getting sex like to see their wives well -dressed, yet, trust me, my fair friends, they would rather owe that -pleasure to your taste than to their pockets!</p> - -<p>Costliness being, then, no essential principle in real elegance, I -shall proceed to give you a few hints on what are the distinguishing -circumstances of a well-ordered toilet.</p> - -<p>As the beauty of form and complexion is different in different women, -and is still more varied, according to the ages of the fair subjects of -investigation; so the styles in dress, while simplicity is the soul of -all, must assume a character corresponding with the wearer.</p> - -<p>The seasons of life should be arrayed like those of the year. In -the spring of youth, when all is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> lovely and gay, then, as the soft -green, sparkling in freshness, bedecks the earth; so, light and -transparent robes, of tender colors, should adorn the limbs of the -young beauty. If she be of the Hebe form, warm weather should find her -veiled in fine muslin, lawn, gauzes, and other lucid materials. To -suit the character of her figure, and to accord with the prevailing -mode and just taste together, her morning robes should be of a length -sufficiently circumscribed as not to impede her walking; but on no -account must they be too short; for, when any design is betrayed of -showing the foot or ankle, the idea of beauty is lost in that of the -wearer’s odious indelicacy. On the reverse, when no show of vanity is -apparent in the dress—when the lightly-flowing drapery, by unsought -accident, discovers the pretty buskined foot or taper ankle, a sense of -virgin timidity, and of exquisite loveliness together, strikes upon the -senses; and Admiration, with a tender sigh, softly whispers, “The most -resistless charm is modesty!”</p> - -<p>In Thomson’s exquisite portrait of Lavinia, the prominent feature is -modesty. “She was beauty’s self,” indeed, but-then she was “thoughtless -of beauty;” and though her eyes were sparkling, “bashful modesty” -directed them</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">“Still on the ground dejected, darting all</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Their humid beams into the blooming flowers.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span></p> - -<p>The morning robe should cover the arms and the bosom, nay even the -neck. And if it be made tight to the shape, every symmetrical line is -discovered with a grace so decent, that vestals, without a blush, might -adopt the chaste apparel. This simple garb leaves to beauty all her -empire; no furbelows, no heavy ornaments, load the figure, warp the -outlines, and distract the attention. All is light, easy, and elegant; -and the lovely wearer, “with her glossy ringlets loosely bound,” moves -with the Zephyrs on the airy wing of youth and innocence.</p> - -<p>Her summer evening dress may be of a still more gossamer texture; -but it must still preserve the same simplicity, though its -gracefully-diverging folds may fall like the mantle of Juno, in -clustering drapery about her steps. There they should meet the white -slipper</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 11em;">“—of the fairy foot,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Which shines like snow, and falls on earth as mute.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>In this dress, her arms, and part of her neck and bosom may be -unveiled; but only <em>part</em>. The eye of maternal decorum should draw -the virgin zone to the limit where modesty would bid it rest.</p> - -<p>Where beauty is, ornaments are unnecessary; and where it is not, they -are unavailing. But as gems and flowers are handsome in themselves, and -when tastefully disposed doubly so, a beautiful young woman, if she -chooses to share her empire<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> with the jeweller and the florist, may, -not inelegantly, decorate her neck, arms, and head, with a string of -pearls, and a band of flowers.</p> - -<p>Female youth, of airy forms and fair complexions, ought to reject, as -too heavy for their style of figure, the use of gems. Their ornaments -should hardly ever exceed the natural or imitated flowers of the -most delicate tribes. The snow-drop, lily of the valley, violet, -primrose, myrtle, Provence rose,—these and their resemblances, are -embellishments which harmonize with their gaiety and blooming years. -The colors of their garments, when not white, should be the most tender -shades of green, yellow, pink, blue, and lilac. These when judiciously -selected, or mingled, array the graceful wearer, like another Iris, -breathing youth and loveliness.</p> - -<p>Should a young woman, of majestic character, inquire for appropriate -apparel, she will find it to correspond with her graver and more -dignified mien. Her robes should always be long and flowing, and more -ample in their folds than those of her gayer sister. Their substance -should also be thicker, and of a soberer color. White is becoming to -all characters, and not less so to Juno than to Venus; but when colors -are to be worn, I recommend to the lady of majestic deportment, to -choose the fuller shades of yellow, purple, crimson, scarlet, black, -and gray. The materials of her dress in summer,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> cambrics, muslins, -sarcenets; in winter, satins, velvets, broadcloth, &c. Her ornaments -should be embroidery of gold, silver, and precious stones, with fillets -and diadems of jewels, and waving plumes.</p> - -<p>The materials for the winter dresses of majestic forms, and -lightly-graceful ones, may be of nearly similar texture, only -differing, when made up, in amplitude and abundance of drapery. Satin, -Genoa velvet, Indian silks, and kerseymere, may all be fashioned -into as becoming an apparel for the slender figure as for the more -<em>embonpoint</em>; and the warmth they afford is highly needful to -preserve health during the cold and damps of winter. When it is so -universally acknowledged, the indispensable necessity of keeping -the body in a just temperature between heat and cold, I cannot but -be astonished at the little attention that is paid to so momentous -a subject by the people of this climate. I wonder that a sense of -personal comfort, aided by the well-founded conviction that health -is the only preservative of beauty, and lengthener of youth, that it -does not impel women to prefer utility before the absurd whims of an -unreasonable fashion.</p> - -<p>To wear gossamer dresses, with bare necks and naked arms, in a hard -frost, has been the mode in this country, and unless a principle is -made against it, may be so again, to the utter wretchedness of them, -who, so arraying their youth, lay themselves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span> open to the untimely -ravages of rheumatisms, palsies, consumptions, and death.</p> - -<p>While fine taste, as well as fashion, decrees that the beautiful -outline of a well-proportioned form shall be seen in the contour of -a nicely-adapted dress, the divisions of that dress must be few and -simple. But, though the hoop and quilted petticoat are no longer -suffered to shroud in hideous obscurity one of the loveliest works in -nature, yet all intermediate covering is not to be banished. Modesty, -on one hand, and Health, on the other, still maintain the law of “fold -on fold.”</p> - -<p>Some of our fair dames appear, summer and winter, with no other shelter -from sun or frost, than one single garment of muslin or silk over -their chemise—<em>if they wear one!</em> but that is often dubious. The -indelicacy of this mode need not be pointed out; and yet, O shame! it -is most generally followed. However, common as the crime is, (for who -will say that it is not a sin against modesty?) it is quickly visited -with its punishment. It loses its aim, if it hopes to attract the -admiration of manly worth. No eye but that of a libertine can look upon -so wanton a figure with any other sensations than those of disgust and -contempt: and the end of all her arts being lost, the certainty of an -early old age, chronic pains, and deeply-furrowed wrinkles, is thus -incurred in vain.</p> - -<p>No woman, even in the warmest flush of youth,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> ought to be prodigal of -her charms; she should not “unmask her beauties to the moon;” or unduly -expose the vital fluid, which animates her frame with life and joy. A -momentary blast from the east may pierce her filmy robes, wither her -bloom, and lay her low.</p> - -<p>The <em>Chemise</em> (now too frequently banished) ought to be held as -sacred by the modest fair as the vestal veil. No fashion should be able -to strip her of that decent covering; in short, woman should consider -it as the sign of her delicacy, as the pledge of honor to shelter her -from the gaze of unhallowed eyes.</p> - -<p>This indispensable vesture being once more appropriated to its ancient -use, we shall next speak of the stays, or <em>corsets</em>. They must -be light and flexible, yielding to the shape, while they support it. -In warm weather, my fair reader should wear under her gown and slip a -light cotton petticoat; these few habiliments are sufficient to impart -the softening line of modesty to the defined outline of the form. -Health, also, is preserved by their opposing the immediate influence of -the atmosphere; and none will deny, that enough of female charms are -thus displayed, to gratify the quick, discerning eye of taste.</p> - -<p>During the chilling airs of spring and autumn, the cotton petticoat -should give place to fine flannel; and in the rigid season of winter, -another addition<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> must be made, by rendering the outer garments warmer -in their original texture: for instance, substituting satins, velvets, -and rich stuffs, for the lighter materials of summer. And besides -these, the use of fur is not only a salutary, but a magnificent and -graceful appendage to dress.</p> - -<p>Having laid it down as a general principle, that the fashion of the -raiment must correspond with that of the figure, and that every sort -of woman will not look equally well in the same style of apparel, it -will not be difficult to make you understand, that a handsome person -may make a freer use of fancy in her ornaments than an ordinary one. -Beauty gives effect to all things; it is the universal embellisher, -the setting which makes common crystal shine as diamonds. In short, -fashion does not adorn beauty, but beauty fashion. Hence, I must warn -Delia, that if she be not cast in so perfect a mould as Celia, she -must not flatter herself that she can supply the deficiency by gayer -or more sumptuous attire. Whims in dress may possibly pass with her, -who, “in Parsian mode, or Indian guise, is still the fairest fair!” -But caprices of this sort, in a plain woman, only render her defects -more conspicuous; and she, who might have been regarded as a very -pleasing girl, in an unobtrusive robe of simple elegance, is ridiculed -and despised when descried in the inappropriate plumage of fancy and -decoration.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span></p> - -<p>Many men, while listening to the conversation of an ordinary, but -sensible young woman, would never see that her hair was harsh, and of -a bad color, were it not interwoven with a wreath of roses. They would -not perceive the brownness and want of symmetry in her bosom, did not -the sparkling necklace attract their eye to the spot. Neither would -it strike them that her hands were coarse and red, did not the pearl -bracelets and circles of rings tell them that she meant they should vie -with Celia’s rose-tipped fingers.</p> - -<p>As I recommend a restrained and quiet mode of dress to plain women, -so, in gradation as the lovely of my sex advance towards the vale of -years, I counsel them to assume a graver habit and a less vivacious -air. Cheerfulness is becoming to all times of life, but sportiveness -belongs to youth alone; and when the meridian or the decline of our -days affects it, is ever heavy and out of place.</p> - -<p>Let me show you, my fair friends, by conducting you into the Pantheon -of ancient Rome, the images of yourselves at the different stages of -your lives. First, behold that lovely Hebe; her robes are like the -air, her motion is on the zephyr’s wing: that you may be till you are -twenty. Then comes the beautiful Diana. The chaste dignity of the pure -intelligence within pervades the whole form, and the very drapery which -enfolds it harmonizes with the modest elegance, the buoyant health, -which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> gives elasticity and grace to every limb: here, then, you see -yourselves from twenty to thirty. At that majestic age, when the woman -of mind looks round upon the world; back on the events which have past, -and calmly forward to those which may be to come; all within ought -to be settled on the firm basis of religion and sound judgment; and -either as a Juno or a Minerva she stands forth in the power of beauty -and of wisdom. At this period she lays aside the flowers of youth, and -arrays herself in the majesty of sobriety, or in the grandeur of simple -magnificence.</p> - -<p>Contradictory as the two last terms may at first appear, they are -consistent; and a glance on the works of Phidias, and of his best -imitators, will sufficiently prove their beautiful union. Long is the -reign of this commanding epoch of a woman’s age; for from thirty to -fifty she may most respectably maintain her station on this throne -of matron excellence. But at that period, when she has numbered half -a century, then it becomes her to throw aside “the wimple and the -crisping-iron, the ornament of silver, and the ornament of gold,” and -gracefully acknowledging her entrance into the vale of years, to wrap -herself in her mantle of gray, and move gently down till she passes -through its extremest bourn to the mansions of immortality.</p> - -<p>Ah! who is there amongst us, who, having once viewed the reality of -this picture, would exchange<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> such blessed relinquishment of the world -and all its vanities, for the bolstered back, enamelled cheek, and -be-wigged head of a modern old woman, just trembling on the verge of -the grave, and yet a candidate for the flattery of men?</p> - -<p>It has been most wisely said, (and it would be well if the waning -queens of beauty would adopt the reflection,) that there is a -<em>time</em> for <em>everything</em>! We may add, that there is a time to -be young, a time to be old; a time to be loved, a time to be revered; a -time to seek life, and a time to be ready to lay it down.</p> - -<p>She who best knows how to fashion herself to these inevitable changes -is the only truly, only lastingly fair. Her beauty is in the mind, -and shown in action; and when men cease to admire the woman, they do -better, they revere the saint.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="ON_THE_PECULIARITIES_OF_DRESS_WITH_REFERENCE_TO_THE_STATION_OF_THE">ON THE PECULIARITIES OF DRESS, WITH REFERENCE TO THE STATION OF THE -WEARER.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Dress drains our cellar dry,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And keeps our larder lean; puts out our fires,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And introduces hunger, frost, and wo,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where peace and hospitality might reign.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Cowper.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>As there is a propriety in adapting your dress to the different seasons -of your life, and the peculiar character of your figure, there is -likewise a necessity that it should correspond with the station you -hold in society.</p> - -<p>This is a subject not less of a moral concern than it is a matter of -taste. By the universality of finery, and expensive articles in dress, -ranks are not only rendered undistinguishable, but the fortunes of -moderate families, and of industrious tradesmen, are brought to ruin: -the sons become sharpers, and the virtue of the wives and daughters too -often follows in the same destruction.</p> - -<p>It is not from a proud wish to confine elegance to persons of quality, -that I contend for less extravagant habits in the middle and lower -orders of people; it is a conviction of the evil which their vanity -produces, that impels me to condemn <em>in toto</em> the present -levelling and expensive mode.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span></p> - -<p>A tradesman’s wife is now as sumptuously arrayed as a countess; and -a waiting-maid as gaily as her lady. I speak not of our merchants, -who, like those of Florence under the Medici family, have the fortunes -of princes, and may therefore decorate the fair partners of their -lives with the rich produce of the divers countries they visit; but I -animadvert on our retail shopkeepers, our linen-drapers, upholsterers, -&c. who, not content with gold and silver baubles, trick out their -dames in jewels! No wonder that these men load their consciences with -dishonest profits, or make their last appearance in the newspaper as -insolvent or <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">felo de se</i>!</p> - -<p>Should the woman of moderate fortune be so ignorant of the principles -of real elegance as to sigh for the splendid apparels of the court, let -her receive as an undeniable truth, that mediocrity of circumstances -being able to afford clean and simple raiment, furnishes all that -is essential for taste to improve into perfect elegance. Riches and -splendor will attract notice, and may often excite admiration; but it -is the privilege of propriety and sweet retiring grace alone to rivet -the eye, and take captive the heart.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Many there are who seem to shun all care,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And with a pleasing negligence ensnare.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The fashion of educating all ranks of young women alike, is the cause -why all ranks of women<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> attempt to dress alike. If the brazier’s -daughter is taught to sing, dance, and play, like the heiress to an -earldom, we must not be surprised that she will also emulate the -decorations of her rival. We see her imitate the coronet on Lady Mary’s -brows; and though Miss Molly may possibly not be able to have her’s of -gems, foil-stones produce a similar effect; then she looks for rings, -bracelets, armlets, to give appropriate grace to the elegant arts she -has learnt to practise; and when she is thus arrayed, she plays away -the wanton and the fool, till some libertine of fortune buys her either -for a wife or a mistress.</p> - -<p>Were girls of the plebeian classes brought up in the praiseworthy -habits of domestic duties; had they learned how to manage a house, how -to economize and produce comfort at the least expense at their father’s -frugal yet hospitable table, we should not hear of dancing-masters, -and music-masters, of French and Italian masters; they would have no -time for them. We should not see gaudy robes and glittering trinkets -dangling behind the counter, or shining at a Sunday ordinary; we should -not be told of the seduction, or ruin of those,</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Whose modest looks the cottage might adorn,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sweet as the primrose peeps beneath the thorn.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The appearance of these young women would not attract the flatterer; -and their simple hearts know not the desires of luxury and vanity.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span></p> - -<p>After having drawn this agreeable picture of her who has well chosen, -I will leave this modern daughter of industry to her discreet and -virtuous simplicity; and once more turn to her whose fortune and -station render greater change and expense in apparel not only -admissible but commendable. A woman with adequate means, when she fills -an extensive wardrobe, encourages the arts and manufactures of her -country, and replenishes the scanty purse of many a laborious family.</p> - -<p>At this period of universal talent, articles of dress may be purchased -at a price so insignificant as hardly to be named, or at the vast cost -of half a fortune. A pretty muslin gown may be bought by the village -girl for a few shillings; while a robe of the same material, but of a -finer quality, cannot be purchased by a lady of rank for less than as -many guineas. Indian muslin wrought with gold or silver is nearly as -costly as the stately brocades of our ancestors, but it is infinitely -more elegant.</p> - -<p>Indeed, when we look back upon their heavy fashions, we cannot but -see, that in almost every respect the advantage of the change is on -our side. With the stiffness of cloth of gold and embroidered tissues, -have also disappeared the enormous pile of hair, furbelows, feathers, -diamond towers, windmills, &c. which a certain witty poet used to -denominate “the building of the head.” Now, easy tresses, the shining -braid, the flowing ringlet confined by the <em>antique</em><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> comb, or -bodkin, give graceful specimens of the simple taste of modern beauty. -Nothing can correspond more elegantly with the untrammelled drapery of -our newly-adopted classic raiment than this undecorated coiffure of -nature.</p> - -<p>While we find that the pious Bishop Latimer remonstrated with the -females of his time against the monstrous superfluity of their -“roundabouts, artificial hips,” &c. &c. and recommended to their use -the “honest <em>single</em> garment;”—our moralists, equally pious, -take up the argument on the contrary side, and justly condemn the too -adhesive and transparent robe worn by our contemporary belles! On this -subject we must dissent from the venerable reformer of the sixteenth -century; and agree with those of the nineteenth, that the <em>single -garment</em> (as the texture now usually is) is not a meet covering for -a christian damsel.</p> - -<p>I am sorry to be obliged to call to your observation, my gentle -friends, that the modern fair have deviated widely from that medium -between the Bacchante and the Vestal, which a discreet candidate -for admiration would wish to preserve. The nature of man is prone -to extremes; and flying from the heavy farthingale and the stuffed -petticoat, women assume almost the Spartan guise; and, not meeting -minds in the opposite sex as pure as those in Lacedæmon, no wonder that -the chaste matron, called upon to foretell the consequence, should -remain silent, and veil her head.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span></p> - -<p>“Good sense,” says La Rochefoucault, “should be the test of all rule, -whether ancient or modern. Whatever is incompatible with good sense -must be false.” Modesty should, on the same principle, be the test of -the propriety of all personal apparel or ornament; for whatever is -incompatible with her ordinances, must degrade and betray.</p> - -<p>Hence you will perceive, my young readers, that in no case a true -friend or lover would wish you to discover to the eye more of the -“form divine” than can be indistinctly descried through the mysterious -involvements of, at least, three successive folds of drapery. Love, -friendship, and real taste, are alike delicate.</p> - -<p>To the exposure of the bosom and back, as some ladies display those -parts of their person, what shall we say? This mode (like every other -which is carried to excess and indiscriminately followed) is not only -repugnant to decency, but most exceedingly disadvantageous to the -charms of nine women out of ten. The bosom and shoulders of a very -young and fair girl may be displayed without exciting much displeasure -or disgust; the beholder regards the too prodigal exhibition, not as -the act of the youthful innocent, but as the effect of accident, or -perhaps the designed exposure of some ignorant dresser. But when a -woman, grown to the age of discretion, of her own choice “unveils her -beauties to the sun and moon,” then, from even an Helen’s charms the -sated eye turns away loathing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span></p> - -<p>Were we even in a frantic and impious passion to set virtue aside, -policy should direct our damsels to be more sparing of their -attractions. An unrestrained indulgence of the eye robs imagination of -her power, and prevents her consequent influence on the heart. And if -this be the case where real beauty is exposed, how much more subversive -of its aim must be the studied display of an ordinary or deformed -figure!</p> - -<p>Judgment, as well as decency, declares, that it is sufficient in the -evening and full-dress to disrobe the back of the neck to the top of -the delicate undulation on the rise of the shoulder. Women, according -to the fineness of their skins and proportions, must accept or decline -the privileges which modesty grants. It is preposterous for her who -is of a brown, dingy, or speckled complexion, to disarray her neck -and arms, as her fairer rival may. A clear brunette has as much -liberty in this respect as the fairest; but not so the muddy-skinned -and ill-formed. A candid consideration of our pretensions on these -subjects, and an impartial judgment, must decide our style of apparel, -and consequently our respectability with the discerning.</p> - -<p>Perhaps it is necessary to remind my reader that custom regulates the -veiling or unveiling the figure, according to different periods in the -day. In the morning, the arms and bosom must be completely covered to -the throat and wrists. From the dinner-hour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> to the termination of the -day, the arms, to a graceful height above the elbow, may be bare; and -the neck and shoulders unveiled as far as delicacy will allow.</p> - -<p>As Cicero said of <em>action</em>, so say ye of the essentials of your -charms. What is the eloquence of your beauty?—Modesty! What is its -first argument?—Modesty! What is its second?—Modesty! What is its -third?—Modesty!—What is its peroration, the winding up of all -its charms, the striking spell that binds the heart of man to her -forever?—Modesty!!!—In the words of Moore,</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Let that which charms all other eyes</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Seem worthless in your own!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Modesty is all in all; for it comprises the beauties of the mind as -well as those of the body; and happy is he who finds her!</p> - -<p>The bosom, which nature has formed with exquisite symmetry in itself, -and admirable adaptation to the parts of the figure to which it is -united, has been transformed into a shape, and transplanted to a -place, which deprives it of its original beauty and harmony with the -rest of the person. This hideous metamorphosis has been effected by -means of newly-invented stays, or corsets, which, by an extraordinary -construction and force of material, force the figure of the wearer into -whatever form the artist pleases.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span></p> - -<p>Curiosity may incline you to wish to know something better of these -buckram machines, that you may form an idea of their intention, use, or -rather inutility. I will satisfy you by describing them to the best of -my power.</p> - -<p>The leader in this arming phalanx is usually called <em>long-stay</em>. -And its announcement to the female world, if not by drum or trumpet, -furnishes not only much matter for oratory in the advertisement, but -a no inconsiderable fund of merriment to the readers of these curious -performances. For instance, “Mrs. and Miss L. P. have willed it, and -it is done at their house,” &c. &c. Here follows a list of their -<em>improved long stay</em>, <em>pregnant stay</em>, <em>divorces</em>, &c. -&c. O! female delicacy, where is thy blush, when thou lookest on such -exposure of the chaste reserves of thy person!</p> - -<p>The first time my eyes met these words so coupled, I was seized with -that honest shuddering which every delicate woman ought to feel at -seeing the parts and situations of her person which modesty bids her -conceal, thus dragged before the imagination of the opposite sex. The -pure must read it with the frown of disgust—the impure with the smile -of ridicule. To this moment, though I find that nothing disrespectful -to modesty was <em>meant</em> by the advertisement, I cannot approve -of the terms in which it is written; for it is my opinion, (and I -am so happy as to be supported in it by the sanction of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> the wisest -moralists,) that, rob woman of her delicate reserves, and you take from -her one of the best strong holds of her chastity. You deprive her of -her sweet attractive mysteries; you lay open to the eye of love the -arcana of her toilet, the infirmities of her nature; the enchantment is -broken, and “the bloom of young desire, the purple light of the soul’s -enthusiasm,” expire at the disclosure.</p> - -<p>To please my still curious readers, I will still further displease -myself, and enter more circumstantially into a detail of these strange -appendages to a female wardrobe.</p> - -<p>But before I proceed with my remarks on the <em>long stay</em>, (the -ringleader of the rest,) I will so far rescue the intention of its -constructors from any <em>design</em> to excite improper ideas by the -words of their advertisement, as to explain to you the proposed -usefulness of the inventions denominated <em>pregnant stay</em>, and -<em>divorces</em>.</p> - -<p>The first is a <em>corset</em> or <em>stay</em> of dimity, or jean, or -silk, reaching from the shoulders down to the waist, and over the -hips, to the complete envelopement of the body. It is rendered of more -than ordinary power by elastic bones, &c. which, introduced between -the lining and covering of the <em>stay</em>, bring it into something -of the consistency and shape of an ancient warrior’s hauberk. This -new-fashioned coat of mail for the fair sex is so constructed, as to -compress and reduce to the shape desired the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> natural prominence of -the female figure in a state of fruitfulness. Some women, who are -bold enough to wear this Procrustean garb during every stage of their -pregnancy, affirm that it preserves their shape without injury to their -state of increase. However this may be with a few hardy individuals, I -profess myself no proselyte to the innovation, as it must necessarily -put a degree of restraint upon the operations of nature, very likely to -produce bad effects both on the mother and the child.</p> - -<p>Support and confinement to an overstrained part are two different -things; the one is beneficial, the other destructive. And this I can -assure my readers, that I ever have remarked those married women who -have longest maintained their virgin forms were those who, in a state -of maternal increase, observed a proper medium between a too relaxed -and a too contracted boddice.</p> - -<p>Nature in these concerns is our best guide; and when she dictates to us -to provide against the possible disagreeable consequences of any of her -operations, it is well to obey her; but when a fastidious, and, allow -me to say, an indelicate, regard to personal charms would excite you -to brace with ribs of whalebone the soft mould of your unborn infant; -or when it has, in spite of these arts, burst its prison-house alive, -you seek to deprive it of the nourishment your breast prepares—then -remember you perform not the duty of a mother, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> show yourself -rather egregiously guilty of wantonness and unpardonable cruelty.</p> - -<p>No person living can feel a more lively admiration than that which -animates me at the sight of a beautiful form,</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;">—“rife</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With all we can imagine of the sky.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>I behold in it the work of the most perfect being—the accomplishment -of one of his fairest designs. He seems to show in earthy mould the -lovely transcript of the angels of heaven: she looks, she breathes, -of innocence and sweet unconscious beauty. But when I cast my eyes on -women issuing from the house of a modern manufacturer of shapes; when -I see the functions of nature impeded by bands and ligatures; when I -behold the abode of virgin modesty thrust forward to the gaze of the -libertine; when I observe the pains taken to attract his eye,—I turn -away disgusted, and blush for my sex.</p> - -<p>Vile as these meretricious arts are, they are not less dangerous to -health than to morals. The constant pressure of such hard substances as -whalebone, steel, &c. upon so susceptible a part as the bosom, is very -likely, in the course of a very short time, to produce all the horrid -consequences of abscesses, cancers, &c.: on their miseries I need not -to descant.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span></p> - -<p>On the <em>long stay</em> I shall now make a few remarks, arising from -the observations I have been enabled to make on the ladies of various -ages and figures whom I have known wear it. To the woman whose waning -charms set in an exuberance of flesh, perhaps the support of this -adventitious aid is an advantage. But in that case its stiffening -should rather be cord quilted in the lining, or very thin whalebone, -than either steel or iron. In all situations, the boddice should be -flexible to the motion of the body and the undulations in the shape; -and it should never be <em>felt</em> to <em>press</em> upon any part.</p> - -<p>Thus far we may tolerate the adoption of this buckram suit for elderly, -or excessively <em>embonpoint</em> ladies; but for the <em>growing</em> -girl (whom, I am sorry to say, mothers not unfrequently imprison in -these machines,) it is both unrequired and mischievous.</p> - -<p>Before nature has completed her work in the perfection of the youthful -figure, she is checked in her progress by the impediment which the -valves, bands, &c. of the <em>long stay</em> throw in her way. Those -finely-rounded points which mark the distinction and the grace of -the female form, and which the artist, enamored of beauty, delights -to delineate with the nicest accuracy, are, by the constant pressure -of these <em>stays</em>, rendered indistinct, and in a short time are -entirely destroyed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span></p> - -<p>Let, then, the <em>long stay</em> be restricted to the too abundant -mass of fattening matronhood; so may art restrain the excesses, not -of nature, but of disease. Unwieldly flesh was never yet seen in a -perfectly healthy person. It generally arises either from intemperance -overloading the functions of life, or dissipation decomposing them.</p> - -<p>Let the <em>padded corset</em> rectify the defects of the deformed; but -where nature has given the outline of a well-constructed form, forbear -to traverse her designs. Youth should be left to spring up, unconfined, -like the young cedar; and when the hand of man, or accident, does not -distort the pliant stem, it will grow erect and firm, spreading its -beautiful and cheerful shade over the heads of its planters.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="OF_THE_DETAIL_OF_DRESS">OF THE DETAIL OF DRESS.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;">“We have run</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Through every change, that fancy at the loom</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Exhausted has had genius to supply;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, studious of mutation still, discard</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A real elegance a little used</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For monstrous novelty and strange disguise.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Cowper.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>There are few things in which our sex can discover more taste than in -the choice of the apparel which may best accord with their several -styles of figures and features; but we frequently see the direct -opposite of good judgment in their selections, and behold between the -person and the attire a complete and laughable incongruity.</p> - -<p>Some women will actually disguise and disfigure themselves, rather -than not appear in the prevailing fashion, which, though advantageous -to one character of face, may have the direct contrary effect with -another. I hinted at this in the earlier part of this dissertation; now -I come closer to my subject, intending to enter into a minute detail -of what ought or ought not to be worn by women of different moulds and -complexions.</p> - -<p>If Daphne have the features of a Siddons, and Amaryllis those of a -Jordan, the style which agrees with the one must ill accord with the -other.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> The like harmony must be maintained between the complexion -and the colors we wear; for it is in these minutiæ which, like the -nice and almost imperceptible touches of the ingenious artist, produce -a complete and faultless whole. That a handsome woman may disfigure -herself by an injudicious choice or disposition of her attire; and a -plain one counteract the errors of nature, so as to render herself -at least agreeable, almost every experienced observer has witnessed. -We may therefore conclude, that beauty with a bad taste is far less -desirable than a good taste without beauty.</p> - -<p>“What an awkward creature is that!” said a gentleman to me the other -evening at a supper, and pointing to a <em>slatternly</em> beauty who sat -opposite, with her chin nearly reposing on her bosom, and her shoulders -drawn up almost to her ears. “Yonder is a very elegant woman!” observed -he, directing my attention to a lady who, critically considered, was -rather ordinary; but by her judicious style of dress, her unstudied -graces of deportment, claimed universal admiration.</p> - -<p>To support my arguments with those of a lady whose taste is best -evinced by her own personal elegance, I shall give you a short extract -from a little tract of her’s, which, like the divine Psyché of Mrs. -Tighe, has been only permitted to meet the eyes of a favored few.</p> - -<p>“Who is there among us that has not witnessed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> a beautiful woman so -apparelled as to render her rather an object of pity and ridicule than -of admiration? How often do we see simplicity and youthful loveliness -obscured by a redundancy of ornaments! How often do the robust and -healthy, the majestic and the gay, the pensive and the sportive, -follow the same mode; marring, mingling and mangling without mercy, -and without taste; regardless of discrimination, appropriation, or -judgment; to the total overthrow of the attractions which nature -liberally bestowed! Do not these ladies perceive that each style of -personal beauty has a distinct character to support? That a tasteful -adaptation will enforce the stamp which nature has impressed? Let -us then admonish the female whose beauty is of the fair, pale, -and interesting cast, not to render her appearance insipid by the -overpowering hues of robes, mantles, pelisses, &c. of amber, orange, -grass-green, crimson, or rose-color. This soft style of beauty makes -its appeal to our most delicate perceptions; all grossness of color -displeases them, and therefore should not be admitted in the articles -of her dress.</p> - -<p>“Grass-green, though a color exceedingly pleasing and refreshing in -itself, jaundices the complexion of the pale woman to such a degree, -as to excite little other sensations in the beholder than compassion -for the poor invalid. Such females should, in general, choose their -robes of an <em>entire color</em>; and when they wear white garments, -they should animate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> them with draperies, mantles, scarfs, ribbons, &c. -of pale pink, blossom-color, celestial blue, lilac, dove-color, and -primrose; leaving full green, deep blue, and purple, to the florid; and -amber, scarlet, orange, flame-color, and deep rose, to the brunette.</p> - -<p>“Thus much we offer in the suitable appropriations of colors. We -shall now proceed to say something on the prevailing fashions of the -day; and though we may fairly congratulate our countrywomen on their -taste and improvement in this particular, yet here also the regulating -hand of judgment, the nice and discriminating effects of genius, and -the directing influence of a delicate and just taste, become most -importantly necessary.</p> - -<p>“The mantle, or cottage-cloak, should never be worn by females -exceeding a moderate <em>embonpoint</em>; and we should recommend their -winter garbs, such as Russian pelisses and Turkish wraps, to be formed -of double sarsnet, or fine Merino cloth, rather than velvets, which -(except black) give an appearance of increased size to the wearer. In -the adoption of furs, flat-ermine or fringe fur is better suited to -the full-formed woman that swan’s-down, fox, chinchilla, or sable; -these are graceful for the more slender. Women of a spare habit, and -of a tall and elegant height, will derive considerable advantage from -the full-flowing robe, mantle, and Roman tunic. The fur-trimming, too, -gives to them an appearance of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> roundness which nature has denied; and -to this description of person we can scarcely recommend an evening -dress more chaste, elegant, and advantageous, than robes of white -satin, trimmed with swan’s-down, with draperies of silver or gossamer -net. The antique head-dress, or queen Mary <em>coif</em>, is best adapted -to the Roman and Grecian line of feature. The Chinese hat and Highland -helmet are becoming to countenances of a rounder and more playful -contour.</p> - -<p>“We have frequently, in our observations, found occasion to lament, -in the present style of female dress, a want of that proper -distinction which should ever be attended to in the several degrees -of <em>costume</em>. For instance, the short gown, so appropriate and -convenient for walking, and pursuing morning avocations or exercises, -intrudes beyond its sphere when seen in the evening or full dress. It -is in the splendid drawing-room that the train robe appears with all -that superiority which gives pre-eminence to grace, and dignity to -beauty.</p> - -<p>“Why should these pleasingly-varying distinctions be neglected? The -long sleeve, too, (now so universal in almost every order of dress,) -belongs with strict propriety only to the domestic habit. These are -inattentions or faults which a correct taste will quickly discover, and -easily rectify. It is dangerous to level distinctions in one case, and -disadvantageous in the other. There should be a just<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> and reasonable -discipline in trifles, as well as in matters of higher import. There is -a vast deal more in things of seeming insignificance than is commonly -imagined. Subjects of importance, high achievements, and glorious -examples, strike every beholder; but there are few who reflect that -it is by perseverance, and attention to comparative trifles, that -mighty deeds are performed, and that great consequences are ultimately -produced.</p> - -<p>“A correct taste is ever the concomitant of a chaste mind; for, -as a celebrated author has justly observed, <em>our taste commonly -declines with our merit</em>. A correct taste is the offspring of all -that is delicate in sentiment and just in conception; it softens -the inflexibility of truth, and decks reason in the most persuasive -garments.</p> - -<p>“A walking-dress cannot be constructed too simply. All attractive and -fancy articles should be confined to the carriage-dress, or dinner -and evening apparel. We shall here particularly address the order of -females who may not have the luxury of a carriage, and yet be within -the rank of gentlewomen. This class composes treble the number of those -to whom fortune has bestowed the appendages of equipages and retinue. -We shall, in our observations, particularly aim at increasing their -respectability, by leading them to adopt a style of adornment, which, -while it combines fashion and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> elegance, shall be remarkable only for -its neatness and simplicity.</p> - -<p>“It has been said that the love of dress is natural to the sex; and we -see no reason why any female should be offended with the assertion. -‘Dress,’ says an author on the subject, ‘is the natural finish of -beauty. Without dress a handsome person is a gem, but a gem that is not -set.’ Dress, however, must be subject to certain rules; be consistent -with the graces, and with nature. By attention to these particulars, is -produced that agreeable exterior which pleases, we know not why,—which -charms, even without that first and powerful attraction, beauty.</p> - -<p>“Fashion, in her various flights, frequently soars beyond the reach of -propriety. Good sense, taste, and delicacy, then make their appeal in -vain. Her despotic and arbitrary sway levels and confounds. Where is -delicacy? where is policy? we mentally exclaim, when we see the fair -inconsiderate votary of fashion exposing, unseemly, that bosom which -good men delight to imagine the abode of innocence and truth. Can the -gaze of the voluptuous, the unlicensed admiration of the profligate, -compensate to the woman of sentiment and purity for what she loses in -the estimation of the moral and the just?</p> - -<p>“But, delicacy apart, what shall we say to the blind conceit of the -robust, the coarse, the waning fair one, who thus obtrude the ravages -of time upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> the public eye? Let us not offend. We wish to lead -to conviction, not to awaken resentment.—Fashion must, in these -instances, have borrowed the bondage of fortune, and so blinded her -votaries against the sober dictates of reason, the mild dignity of -self-respect.</p> - -<p>“There is a mediocrity which bounds all things, and even fixes the -standard which divides virtue from bombast. Let us, therefore, in -every concern, endeavor to observe this happy temperature. Let the -youthful female exhibit, without shade, as much of her bust as shall -come within the limits of fashion, without infringing on the borders -of immodesty. Let the fair of riper years appear less exposed. To -sensible and tasteful women a hint is merely required. They need -not very close instructions; for at once they perceive, combine, -and adopt, with judgment and delicacy. The rules of propriety are -followed, as it were, instinctively by them; and their example is -so impressed on the generality of our lovely countrywomen, (who, -too often and inconsiderately, follow the vagaries of fashion with, -perhaps, ridiculous avidity,) that we must take upon us to correct -the irregularities of the many, in hopes that the judicious few will -embrace grace, and make it universal.</p> - -<p>“Far be it from us to lead the female mind from its solemn engagements -to the pursuit of comparative nothings. But there is a time and place -for all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span> things, and for every innocent purpose under heaven; and on -these grounds we do not see why a female should not blend the agreeable -with the estimable.</p> - -<p>“There are persons who neglect their dress from pride, and a desire -to attract by a careless singularity; but wherever this is the case, -depend on it something is wrong in the mind. Lavater has observed, -that persons habitually attentive to their attire display the same -regularity in their domestic affairs. ‘Young women,’ he continues, ‘who -neglect their toilet, and manifest little concern about dress, indicate -a general disregard of order; a mind but ill adapted to the detail of -house-keeping; a deficiency of taste, and of the qualities that inspire -love:—they will be careless in everything. The girl of eighteen who -desires not to please, will be a slut, or a shrew, at twentyfive. Pay -attention, young men, to this sign; it never yet was known to deceive.’</p> - -<p>“Hence we see that the desire of exhibiting an amiable exterior is -essentially requisite in woman. It is to be received as an unequivocal -symbol of those qualities which we seek in a wife; it indicates -cleanliness, sweetness, a love of order, and of universal propriety. -What, then, is there to censure in a moderate consideration of -dress?—Nothing. We may blame when we find extravagance, profusion, -misappropriation; the tyranny of fashion; slavery to vanity; in short, -bad taste!</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span></p> - -<p>“Let us then urge the British fair to that elegant simplicity, that -discriminating selection, which combines fashion, utility, and grace. -Thus shall the inventive faculty of genius be honored and encouraged, -and industry receive the reward of its ingenuity and labors.</p> - -<p>“We shall now proceed to notice the present articles which claim -fashionable pre-eminence, and give some useful hints on their -application.</p> - -<p>“As a walking habit, we know of none in summer which is more graceful -than the lightly flowing shade of lace or finest muslin. And in winter -no invention can exceed the Trans-Baltic coat or Lapland-wrap. These -comfortable shields from the cold are usually formed of cloth or -velvet, with deep collars and cuffs of sable, or other well-contrasted -fur. Ladies of the first nobility usually have them lined throughout -with the same costly skins. These garments wrap over the figure in -front; sometimes they have them without other ornament than their -bordering furs; and at others, fasten them with magnificent clasps and -buckles. We have seen one of these coats (or, as northern travellers -denominate them, <em>shoubs</em>,) on a female of high rank, composed of -crimson-velvet, with deep cuffs, cape and collar of spotted ermine, and -a deep border of the same down the sides. It had a superb effect; and, -with the imperial helmet-hat of the same material, exhibited one of the -most sumptuous carriage costumes that can be imagined.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span></p> - -<p>“When this dress is adopted by the pedestrian fair, we recommend it to -be of a more sober hue, and that the bonnet should be of the provincial -poke or cottage form.</p> - -<p>“Short women destroy the symmetry of their forms, and encumber their -charms, with redundancy of ornament, either in their morning or evening -attires. A little woman, befeathered and furbelowed, looks like a queen -of the Bantam tribe; and we dare not approach her for fear of ruffling -her plumes. Feathers are much in vogue; and though formerly a symbol of -full dress, are now often a mark of graceful negligence, and are seen -falling carelessly, and floating with ease; they kiss the rosy cheek -of youth and health; or, less courteous, steal the vermilion from the -painted face of fading maturity, as, fanned by the spiteful breeze, -they wave from her bonneted head in the gay promenade.</p> - -<p>“We love to see our countrywomen remarkable for elegance and modesty, -as well as beauty. Englishmen, accustomed to objects of undisputed -loveliness, aim at something beyond the surface of external charms; -they require that all should be fair within.</p> - -<p>“Hear what a male writer has observed on the fashion of exposing -the bosom! ‘A woman, proud of her beauty,’ says he, ‘may possibly -be nothing but a coquette; one who makes a public display of her -<em>bosom</em>, is something worse.’ This writer insinuates<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> too much; -for we believe that so far from our females being actuated in this -case by any unbecoming motive, they too commonly act from no motive -at all, save that blind and mistaken one which we have so much -condemned—<em>the heedless adoption of an absurdity because it is the -fashion</em>! But let the inconsiderate beauty remember, that where two -motives can be assigned to an action, the world will generally adopt -that which is least favorable!”</p> - -<p>Though I have made this extract, which enters so intimately into the -secrets of the toilet, and descants so engagingly on its attractive -subject, I must desire that it may not be supposed I would seek -to create an inordinate degree of care respecting that which is -comparatively of no account, when placed in competition with the -indispensable qualities and acquirements which ought to adorn the -Christian maid. I would have my fair friends be fully impressed with -the truth, that it is not she who spends the most time at her toilet -that is usually the best dressed; a too zealous care generally subverts -the effect it was meant to produce. It is very easy to “varnish till -the painting disappears.” A multiplicity of ornaments ever distracts -the attention, and detracts from feminine loveliness. They are regarded -as a sort of <em>make weights</em> in a scale, where nature must have -been a niggard to render them necessary.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span></p> - -<p>In the like manner, a diversity of colors bespeaks vulgarity of -taste, and a mind without innate elegance or acquired culture. Where -doubt may be about this or that hue being becoming or genteel (as it -is very possible it may neither be the one nor the other,) let the -puzzled beauty leave both, and securely array herself in simple white, -“pure as her mind.” That primeval hue never offends, and frequently -is the most graceful robe that youth and loveliness can wear. “It is -inconceivable,” says a writer on the subject, “how much the color of -a gown or a shawl may heighten or destroy the beauty of a complexion; -and how much the sex in general neglect these (to them) important -particulars.” Every consideration must yield to the prevailing mode; -and to this tyrant all advantages are sacrificed. Women no longer -consult their figures, but the whim of the moment; and it is sufficient -for them that the Duchess of D——, or the Marchioness of E——, -appeared in <em>murry</em> color or <em>coquelicot</em>, to make all the -<em>belles</em> in England, black, brown, or fair, array themselves in -the same livery.</p> - -<p>Nothing contributes more to the setting forth of the beauties of a -complexion than the choice of the colors opposed to it. Women should -not only be nice in this adaptation, but they must be careful that -the different shades or hues they admit in the various parts of their -garments should accord with each other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></p> - -<p>Here it is that we distinguish the woman of taste from the hoyden, -ready to employ a pedlar’s pack upon her shoulders. To attempt to -contrast two shades of the same color, has in general a very harsh -effect; indeed I never saw it harmonize in the least, except in the -case of two greens as a trimming; or in the beautiful blending of -nature in the form and hues of flowers.</p> - -<p>It is also not unworthy of remark, that colors which are to make a -part of evening apparel ought to be chosen by candle-light; for if -in the morning, forgetful of the influence of different lights on -these things, you purchase a robe of pale yellow, purple, lilac, or -rose-color, you will be greatly disappointed when at night it is -observed to you that your dress is either dingy, foxy, or black.</p> - -<p>The harmonious assortment of well-chosen colors was once quite a -science amongst women; and even now it may not only be considered as -a specimen of delicate taste, but a proof of that genius which, if -cultivated, might distil the hues of Iris over the animated canvass -fraught with beauty and life.</p> - -<p>This union of a thousand dyes, “by nature’s pure and cunning hand laid -on,” cannot be found in greater perfection than in the resplendent lap -of summer; then the earth teems with gay enchantment, and presents to -the fair wanderers through her fragrant bowers the loveliest raiment -for their beauties.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> This animating and native ornament, so interesting -and charming in itself, should ever find a place on the toilet of -youth. How can a beauteous young woman (the fairest production of -creation) be more suitably adorned than with this sweet apparel of the -fairest season? It is uniting “sweets to the sweet.” Flowers recall so -many pleasing images to the mind, that when a beholder sees them, he is -ever put in a temper to admire; and, when they are found blended with -the beauties of a lovely girl, the effect is irresistible.</p> - -<p>The simple wreath of roses, the jessamine, the lily of the valley, -the snow-drop, the brilliant ranunculus, and a long train of rival -sweets, offer themselves at the shrine of female taste. From this rich -assemblage are selected and formed those delicious garlands which deck -the snowy brows of Celia, which twine with Chloe’s golden hair. From -this fair parterre we collect the variegated <em>bouquet</em>, which, -reposing on the bosom of beauty, mingles its fragrant breath with hers.</p> - -<p>This tender, this exquisite sweetness, which we inhale from the lily, -the rose, or the violet, is far preferable to all the extracted -perfumes that ever were wafted “from Indus to the pole.” They are not -only purer and more balmy; but, when, on approaching a lovely woman, -we find, not only our eye delighted with the sight of beauty, but our -senses “wrapped in the sweet embrace of soft perfumes;”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> when it is not -the preconcerted fragrancy of essences drawn from east to west, and -poured upon the fair with the design to <em>affect our senses</em>; then -we yield ourselves to the lovely breathing of nature. We see her in the -charming creature before us, blooming in youth and freshness; we feel -her in the thousand odors of Paradise emanating from the newly-plucked -flowers, which seem to share her being, imbibing and partaking -sweetness.</p> - -<p>Amidst the variety of materials with which women decorate their -persons, there is not one that requires greater discrimination in the -use than those articles of jewelry which we denominate trinkets. Here -good taste, the general regulatrix, now resumes her sway. The blind -directress of the luxuriant imagination gives grace to solidity, and -consequence to trifles. Her magic spirit breathes in the laurels of -the hero, dwells on the lip of oratory, and sparkles in the gem that -decorates the fair!</p> - -<p>To women of the most exalted as well as of the more humble ranks, we -recommend a moderate, rather than a profuse, display of conspicuous -and showy ornaments. A well-educated taste ought to open the eyes -of a woman to be a tolerably correct judge of the perfections or -imperfections of her own person; and by that judgment she ought to -regulate the adoption or rejection of striking decoration.</p> - -<p>It is well to remind my youthful reader that she can never learn these -truths (when they are on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> defective side) but from the decisions -of her own impartial mind. Few women, much less men, would venture to -say to an improperly dressed young lady,—“Madam, your fingers are two -clumsy to wear with advantage that brilliant ring;—your neck and arms -are two meagre, discolored, or coarse, to adopt the pearl bracelet -or necklace; unless, indeed, you soften the contrast by putting a -lace shirt and long sleeves between your skin and the pearls.” These -observations would place the too frank adviser in a similar situation -with that of Gil Blas when correcting the manuscripts of the conceited -<em>Prelate of Granada</em>;—and, therefore, we cannot expect that any -friend should run the risk of incurring our resentment, when they might -retain our favor by only permitting us to make ourselves as ridiculous -as we please.</p> - -<p>Let me then, in the light of an <em>author</em>, who cannot be supposed, -in a general address, to mean any individual personal reflections, -admonish my readers, one and all, not to neglect composing their -complexions with the hues and brilliancy of the gems offered to them to -wear. Clear brunettes shine with the greatest lustre when they adopt -pearls, diamonds, topazes, and bright amber. The fair beauty may also -wear all these with advantage, while she exclusively claims as her -own, emeralds, garnets, amethysts, rubies, onyxes, &c. &c. Cornelian, -coral, and jet, may be worn by either; but certainly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span> produce the most -pleasing effect on the rose and lily complexion.</p> - -<p>Ornaments and trimmings of silver are to be preferred to gold, when -intended for the fair beauty. The white lustre of the first of these -costly metals harmonizes better with delicacy of skin than the glaring -effulgence of the gold. By a parity of reasoning, gold agrees better -with the brunette, as its yellow and flaming hue lights up the fire of -her eyes, and exhibits her complexion in the brightest contrast.</p> - -<p>If the <em>clavicle</em>, or collar-bone, be too apparent, either from -accidental thinness or original shape, remedy the defect by letting -the necklace fall immediately into the cavity which the ungraceful -projection occasions. But should this bone protrude itself to an -absolutely ugly extent, I would recommend the neck to be completely -covered by a lace handkerchief and frill; for its exposure would only -give a bad specimen of a figure which may be, in every other part, of a -just and fine proportion.</p> - -<p>If the prevailing fashion be to reject the long sleeve, and to -partially display the arm, let the glove advance considerably above the -elbow, and there be fastened with a drawing-string, or armlet. But this -should only be the case when the arm is muscular, coarse, or scraggy. -When it is fair, smooth, and round, it will admit of the glove being -pushed down to a little above the wrists.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span></p> - -<p>There is perhaps no single beauty of the female form which obtains so -much admiration as a well-proportioned foot and ankle. Possibly the -liveliness of this sentiment may be increased in this instance by the -rarity of the perfection being found amongst the British fair.</p> - -<p>There is a <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">je ne sais quoi</i> in a fine ankle, which seems to -assure the gazer that the whole of the form, of which it is a sample, -is shaped with the same exquisite grace. A heavy leg and foot seems -to hint that the whole of the limbs which the drapery conceals are -in a gravitating proportion with their clumsy foundations; and where -we see ponderosity of body, we are apt to conclude that there is -equal heaviness in mind and feelings. This may be an unjust mode of -reasoning, but it is a very common one; and so I account for the -general prejudice against any unusual weight in the lower extremities.</p> - -<p>When we consider that it required the famous sculptor of Greece to -collect the most beautiful virgins from every part of his country -before he could find a living model for every part of his projected -statue of perfect beauty; when we consider this, that the very native -land of female charms could not produce one woman completely faultless -in her form—how can we be so unreasonable as to demand such perfection -in a daughter of Britain?</p> - -<p>Let not the other sex scrutinize too closely, nor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> demand that -universal and correct symmetry in their wives and daughters, which -was never yet found but in the elaborately chiseled models of the -sculptor’s study.</p> - -<p>It must not, however, be presumed from what I have said, that the -generality of other countries are happier in the beautiful formation -of their women’s forms than England, or that the British fair are at -all more notorious than many other nations for heavy feet and legs. So -far from it, there are ladies in England with feet and ankles of so -delicate a symmetry, that there is nothing in modelling or in marble -to excel their perfection. But to make a display of them—to exhibit -them by unusually short petticoats, and draw attention by extraordinary -gay attire, is an instance of immodesty and ill-taste, which attracts -contempt instead of admiration. Men despise her for her impropriety, -and envious women have a fair subject on which to ground their -detractions.</p> - -<p>In short, it can never be sufficiently inculcated, that modesty is the -most graceful ornament of beauty.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“She that has that, is clad in complete steel.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Be the foot eminently handsome, or the reverse, it alike requires to be -arrayed soberly. Except on certain brilliant occasions, its shoe should -be confined to grave and clean-looking colors; of the first,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> black, -grays, and browns; of the last, white, nankeen, pale-blue, green, &c., -according to the color of the dress, and the time of day. I should -suppose it almost useless to say, that (except in a carriage) the dark -colors ought to be preferred in a morning. To be sure, there is nothing -out of character in wearing nankeen shoes or half-boots in the early -part of the day, even in walking, provided the other parts of your -dress be spotless white, or of the same buff hue. The other delicate -colors I have mentioned above (I repeat, except in a carriage) are -confined to evening dresses. Red morocco, scarlet, and those very vivid -hues, cannot be worn with any propriety until winter, when the color of -the mantle or pelisse may sanction its fulness. On brilliant assembly -nights, or court drawing-rooms, the spangled or diamond-decorated -slipper has a magnificent and appropriate effect. But for the raiment -of the leg, we totally disapprove, at all times, of the much ornamented -stocking.</p> - -<p>The open-wove clock and instep, instead of displaying fine proportion, -confuse the contour; and may produce an impression of gaiety, but -exclude that of beauty, whose rays always strike singly. But if the -cloak be a colored or a gold one, as I have sometimes seen, how -glaring is the exhibition! how coarse the association of ideas it -produces in the fancy! Instead of a woman of refined manners and -polished habits, your imagination reverts<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> to the gross and revolting -females of Portsmouth-point, or Plymouth-dock; or at least to the -hired opera-dancer, whose business it is to make her foot and ankle -the principal object which characterizes her charms, and attracts the -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">coup d’œil</i> of the whole assembly.</p> - -<p>If I may give my fair friends a hint on this delicate subject, it -would be that the finest rounded ankles are most effectually shown by -wearing a silk stocking <em>without any clock</em>. The eye then slides -easily over the unbroken line, and takes in all its beauties. But when -the ankle is rather large, or square, then a pretty unobtrusive net -clock, of the same color as the stocking, will be a useful division, -and induce the beholder to believe the perfect symmetry of the parts. -A very thick leg cannot be disguised or amended; and in this case I -can only recommend absolute neatness in the dressing of the limb, and -petticoats so long that there is hardly a chance of its ever being seen.</p> - -<p>One cause of <em>thick ankles</em> in young women is want of exercise, -and abiding much in overheated rooms. Standing too long has often -the same effect, by subjecting the limb to an unnatural load, and -therefore to swelling. The only preventive, or cure, for this malady, -is a strict attention to health. You might as well expect to see a -rose-bush spring, bud, and bloom, in a closely-pent oven, as anticipate -fine proportions and complexion from a long continuance of the exotic -fashions of modern days.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span></p> - -<p>If a girl wishes to be well-shaped and well-complexioned, she must use -due exercise <em>on foot</em>. Horseback is an excellent auxiliary, as -it gives much the same degree of motion, with double the animation, -in consequence of the change of air, and variation of objects; but -carriage exercise is so little, that we cannot recommend it to any case -that is short of an absolute invalid. A woman in respectable health -must <em>walk</em>, to maintain her happy temperament. By this she will -still more consolidate her solids, and preserve the shape with which -nature has kindly endowed her. If it was originally fine, it will -remain; and if it was but ordinary, it will at least save itself from -growing deformed.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="ON_DEPORTMENT">ON DEPORTMENT.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Grace was in all her steps, heaven in her eye,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In every gesture dignity and love.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Milton.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>Having discoursed so largely on form and apparel, I shall now throw -together a few hints on that indispensable assistant-grace of beauty, -an elegant and appropriate air.</p> - -<p>This subject should be particularly considered; and the arguments from -such reflections strongly enforced on the attention of young women. -There is scarcely an observer of manners and their effects, who will -not maintain that the most beautiful and well-dressed woman will soon -cease to please, unless her charms are accompanied with the ineffable -enchantment of a graceful demeanor. A pretty face may be seen every -day, but grace and elegance, being generally the offspring of a -polished mind, are more distinguished.</p> - -<p>While we exult in the pre-eminent beauty of our fair countrywomen; -while we talk of their lilies and roses, and downy skins; we cannot but -shrink from comparison when we bring their manners in parallel with the -females of other nations, who have not half their corporeal advantages.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span></p> - -<p>I am not going to deny, that in this land of beauty, (a land to which -a certain cardinal, many centuries ago, gave the appellation of <em>the -native paradise of angels</em>!) we shall find the fair</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Fitted to shine in courts, or walk the shade,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With innocence and contemplation join’d.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>There are many lovely women of all ranks in England who merit this -encomium: but I am not writing an eulogium on these happy exceptions; -I feel it my duty to admonish the general race of my female -contemporaries. To the rising generation I especially address myself; -and when the young belle in her teens listens to the suggestions of -experience, perhaps the advice may not be quite so unpalatable, when -she understands that it comes from one who has studied the graces -at more than one of the courts of the Bourbons; and, since their -dispersion, has followed the flight of elegance wherever it was to be -found.</p> - -<p>The <em>awkward, reserved</em> air of the early part of the last -century has given way, not to <em>grace</em> and <em>frankness</em>, -but to an <em>unblushing impudence</em>, which is the very assassin -of female virtue and connubial honor. Think not I am too severe, ye -indulgent mothers! regard me not as a cynic, ye thoughtless daughters -of imitation! I mean not to arraign your hearts, but your manners; -I seek to pluck the garb of Phryné from your chaste and Christian<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span> -shoulders. Who, that is an actress, when called upon to perform the -part of spotless <em>Virginia</em>, would rush upon the stage half -naked, dancing, rolling her eyes as if intoxicated, and flirting with -every officer of the <em>pretorian guard</em> who crossed her path? In -such a case should we not call the actress mad? or say, “If such were -Virginia, he performed a rash and unnecessary act, who avenged the -insulted person of such a wanton on the first magistrate of Rome!”</p> - -<p>Yet such Virginias are our Virginias! and to see a modest, abashed, -retiring, blushing girl enter one of our assemblies, is as uncommon a -sight as now and then an embassy from a foreign land. The modern taste -for exhibitions of all kinds is the chief source of this depravity; -a girl is no longer taught to dance that she may move easily in the -occasional festivities of her neighborhood, and enjoy the graceful -exercise of a birth-day or a race ball, without annoying the movements -of her companions. No! these are not sufficient: she takes her lessons -of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">corps de ballet</i>, that she may present herself in the -ball-room or on a stage; and while the motions of her limbs, and the -exposure of her person, scandalize every discreet matron present, she -believes herself the object of general admiration, the very <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ne -plus ultra</i> of the art. In like manner, her musical talents are -cultivated. She does not learn to compose, with her sweet lullaby, the -unquiet hours of old age or of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span> sickness, to rest and sleep: enough for -her relations, father, brothers, husband, that she practises all day -the crude and disagreeable parts of her lessons. It is for the guest, -the gay assembly, the concert of <em>amateurs</em>, that she reserves -her harmonies; and to them she sings and plays till she believes -<em>herself</em> the tenth muse, and <em>them</em> her adorers.</p> - -<p>Can we be surprised that from such an education should be produced the -vain, the conceited, the presumptuous, the impudent?</p> - -<p>To check this growing evil, by showing the young candidate for -admiration what is “woman’s best knowledge and her praise;” to show her -what is indeed the proper, the graceful, the winning deportment, is the -design of these few following pages; and I trust that my young reader -will receive them as the admonition of a tender and experienced parent, -and not allow “a mother’s precepts to be vain!”</p> - -<p>Having laid it down as a first principle, that no demeanor, whether in -a princess or a country girl, can be becoming that is not grounded in -<em>feminine delicacy</em>, I shall proceed to show, that a different -deportment is expected from different persons. Certain characteristics -of persons are suited to certain styles of manner; and also the same -demeanor does not agree as well with the steward’s daughter as the -squire’s bride.</p> - -<p>As in a former chapter I have particularized the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span> dresses which are -adapted to the gay and the grave, so in the next I propose pointing out -the appropriate miens which belong to the various degrees of beauty and -classes of society.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="PECULIARITIES_IN_CARRIAGE_AND_DEMEANOR">PECULIARITIES IN CARRIAGE AND DEMEANOR.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“By her graceful walk, the Queen of Love is known.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Virgil.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>As order is the beautiful harmonizer of the universe, so consistency is -the graceful combiner of all that is in woman to perfection.</p> - -<p>In reference to this sentiment, her manners must bear due affinity -with her figure, and her deportment with her rank. The youthful and -delicate-shaped girl is allowed a gaiety of air which would ill become -a women of maturer years and larger proportions; but at all times of -life, when the figure is slender, a swan-like neck, and the motions -are naturally swaying, for that girl, or that woman, to affect what -is called a majestic air, would be as unavailing as absurd. It is not -in the power of a figure so constructed ever to look majestic. By -stiffening her joints, walking with an erect mien, and drawing up her -neck, she would certainly be upright; she would seem to have had a -determined dancing-master, who, in spite of nature and grace, had made -her <em>hold up her head</em>; but she would never look like anything -but a stiff, inelegant creature. The character of these slight forms -corresponds with their resemblances<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span> in the vegetable world: the -aspen, the willow, bend their gentle heads at every passing breeze, -and their flexible and tender arms toss in the wind with grace and -beauty: such is the woman of delicate proportions. She must enter a -room either with the buoyant step of a young nymph, if youth is her -passport to sportiveness; or, if she is advanced nearer the meridian -of life, she then may glide in, with that ease of manner which gives -play to all the graceful motions of her elegantly undulating form. For -her to crane up her neck, would be to change its fine swan-like bend -into the scraggy throat of the ostrich: all her movements should be of -a flexible character. Her mode of salutation should be rather a bow -than a courtesy; and when she sits, she should model her easy attitude -rather by the ideas of the painter, when he would pourtray a reclining -nymph, than according to the lessons of the grace-destroying governess, -who would marshal her pupils on their chairs like a rank of drilled -recruits. In short, for a slender or thin woman, to be stiff at any -time, is, in the first case, to render of no effect the advantages of -nature; and, in the next, to increase and aggravate her defects, by -making it more conspicuous by a constrained and ridiculous carriage.</p> - -<p>Though we cannot unite the majestic air which declares command with -this easy, nymph-like deportment, the dignity of modesty may be its -inseparable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> companion. The timid, the retreating step; the downcast -eye; the varying complexion, “blushing at the deep regard she draws!” -all these belong to this class of females; and they are charms so -truly feminine, so exquisitely lovely, that I cannot but place them -with their counterpart, the ethereal form, as the perfection of female -beauty.</p> - -<p>The woman whose figure bears nature’s own stamp of majesty, is -generally of a stately make; her person is squarer, and has more of -<em>embonpoint</em> than the foregoing. The very muscles of her neck are -so formed as to show their adaptation to an erect posture. There is -a sort of loftiness in the natural movement of her head, in the high -swell of her expansive bosom. The step of this woman should be grave -and firm: her motions few and commanding; and the carriage of her -head and person erect and steady. An excess in stateliness could not -have any worse effect on her, than perverting the majesty of nature -into the haughtiness of art. We might admire or revere the first; the -last we would probably resent and detest. The dignified beauty must -therefore beware of overstraining the natural bent of her character: it -is like the bombast of exalted language which never fails to lose its -aim, and engender disgust. We might laugh at a delicate girl, so far -exaggerating the pliancy of her form and ease of manners, as to twist -herself into the thousand antics of a Columbine: she aims at pleasing -us,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span> and though she chooses the wrong method, we will not frown, but -only smile at the ridiculous exhibition. But when a majestic fair one -presumes to arrogate an undue consequence in her air, it is not to -gratify our senses that she assumes the extraordinary diadem: and, -irritated at the contempt her greatness would wish to throw upon us -inferior personages, we treat her like an usurper; and, armed with a -sense of injustice, we determine to pull her at once from her throne.</p> - -<p>The easy, graceful air, we see, belongs exclusively to the slender -beauty, and the moderated majestic mien to a greater <em>embonpoint</em>.</p> - -<p>There is a race of women whose persons have no determined character. -These must regulate and adopt their demeanors according to the degrees -in which they approach the two before-mentioned classes. But in all -cases, let it never be forgotten, that a too faint copy of a model is -better than an overcharged one. Excess is always bad. Moderation never -offends. By falling easily into the degree of undulating grace, or the -dignified demeanor which suits your character, you merely put on the -robe which nature designed, and the habit will be fit and becoming.</p> - -<p>But when the nymph-like form assumes a regal port, or a commanding -dame pretends to “skip and play,” the affectation on both sides is -equally absurd: discords of this kind are ever ridiculous and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span> odious. -Besides these, there are affectations of other descriptions, of equal -folly and bad effect. Some ladies, to whom nature has given a good -sight, and lovely orbs to look through, must needs pretend a kind -of half-blindness, and they go peeping about through an eye-glass, -dangling at the end of a long gold chain, hanging at their necks. Not -content with this affectation of one defect, they assume another, and -lisp so inarticulately, that hardly three words in a sentence are -intelligible. All such follies as these are not more a death-blow to -all respect for the novice that plays them off, than they are sure -antidotes to any charms she may possess. Simplicity is the perfection -of form; simplicity is the perfection of fine dressing; simplicity is -the perfection of air and manners.</p> - -<p>In the details of carriage, we must not omit a due attention to gait, -and its accompanying air. We find that it was “by her <em>graceful -walk</em> the Queen of Love was known!” In this particular, the French -women far exceed us. Pope observes, that “they move easiest who have -learnt to <em>dance</em>.” And it is the step of the highly-accomplished -dancer that we see in the generality of well-bred Frenchwomen; not -the march of the military sergeant, which is the usual study with our -pedestrian Graces. There is a buoyant lightness, a dignified ease in -the walk of a lady, who has been taught the use of her limbs by a -fine dancer, which is never<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> seen in her who has been drilled by the -halbert, and told to <em>stand at ease</em> with her hands resting on -her stomach, as if reposing on the trigger of her fire-lock. Such a -way as we have fallen upon to teach our daughters the <em>graceful step -of the Queen of Love</em>, is, indeed, so singular, that until another -race of Amazons arise, to whom military tactics may be useful, we have -no chance of any imitators. Indeed, the marching walk of Englishwomen -is so ridiculous, even in the eyes of their own countrymen, that I -remember of being one day in St. James’s Park, with one of these female -recruits, when a sentinel, with a humorous gravity, struck his musket -to her as she passed.</p> - -<p>Both in the case of air and gait, it is necessary to begin early -to train the person and the limbs to the ease and grace you wish. -It is difficult to straighten the stem long left to diverge into -irregular wildness; but the tender tree, pliant in youth, needs only -the directing hand of a careful gardener to train it to symmetry and -luxuriance.</p> - -<p>Many of the naturally most pleasing parts of the female shape have -I seen assume an appearance absolutely disgusting; and all form an -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">outre</i> air, vulgar manners, or hoydening postures. The bosom, -which should be prominent, by a lounging attitude, sinks into slovenly -flatness, rounding the back, and projecting the shoulders! On the one -side, I have seen a finely-proportioned figure transform herself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> -into a perfect fright by this awkward neglect of all propriety and -grace; and, on the other, I am acquainted with a lady, whose beauty, -taken in the common acceptation of the word, would not obtain her a -second look, but in the elegance of her manners, in the dignity of -her carriage, in the taste and disposition of her attire, and in the -thousand inexpressible charms which distinguish the gentlewoman, she is -so powerful that none can behold her without captivation.</p> - -<p>A late author, in a work entitled, “Remarks on the English and French -Ladies,” very ably points out the superior attention which the women -of France pay to the cultivation of their air and manners; and he -proceeds, with no inconsiderable degree of eloquence, to exhort the -British fair not to lose, by a careless neglect, the advantages which -nature has given them over the <em>belles</em> of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">la grande nation</i>.</p> - -<p>“It must not be dissembled,” says this writer, “that our much fairer -countrywomen (the English) are too often apt to forget that native -charms may receive considerable improvement by attending to the -regulation of carriage and motion. They ought to be reminded, that -it is chiefly by an attention of this kind, that the Frenchwomen, -though unable to rival them in such exterior perfections as are the -gift of nature, attain, however, to a degree of eminence in other -accomplishments, that effaces the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span> recollection of their inferiority -in personal charms.” He proceeds to observe, that “the gracefulness of -a French lady’s step is always a subject of high commendation in the -mouth even of Frenchmen;” and again he says, “conscious where their -advantage lies, they spare no pains to improve that grace of manner, -that fund of vivacity, which are in their nature so agreeable, and -which they know so well how to manage to the best effect.”</p> - -<p>My intimacy with the French manners makes me quote these short extracts -with greater pleasure; and as I bear witness to the truth of their -evidence, I hope that an amiable ambition will unite in the breasts -of the British fair, to rise as much superior to their French rivals -in all feminine graces, as our British heroes are to the French on -the seas! We shall then see cultivated understandings, unaffected -cheerfulness, and manners of an enchantment not to be exceeded by the -fairest sorceresses in beauty and grace.</p> - -<p><em>Sorceresses</em> I would make you, my gentle friends; but your -spells should be those of nature and of virtue. While I exhort you to -preserve your persons in comeliness, to array yourselves in elegance -and sweet attractive grace, I would not lead you to believe, that these -are all your charms; that these are sufficient “to take the captive -soul of love, and lap it in Elysium!” No; woman was created for higher -attainments; many a heart<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span> was formed to pant for dearer joys than -these can produce. Woman must, in every respect, and at all times, -regard her form as a secondary object; her mind is the point of her -first attention; it is the strength of her power; the part that links -her with angels; and, as such, she must respect, cultivate, and exalt -it.</p> - -<p>But as these familiar pages are expressly intended as a little treatise -on <em>the dress</em> of these admirable qualities, I do not suppose it -demanded of me to enter so minutely into the subject of mind, as I -otherwise should have esteemed it my duty. We have before admitted, -that while on this earth wandering amongst the erring and voluptuous -sons of men, virtue must be clad in an attractive garb, else few -will love her for herself. To this end, then, like Solon of Athens, -I give the best directions the inmates of this gay world are capable -of receiving—though, perhaps, not the best I could lay down. I would -win the too earth-clinging soul by his senses, to give up his sensual -enjoyments, and, caught by earthly charms, see and feel his connexion, -and leaving the grosser part, aspire to mingle being with those alone -which partake of immortality.</p> - -<p>It is not by the showy attire of meretricious splendor, by the -seductive air of Sybaritical refinement, that I would effect this. “It -is good that virtue keep ever with its like!” my means<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span> should ever be -consistent with their object. So, with me, beauty, elegance, and grace, -should be the only pleaders for the empire of morals and religion. On -these principles, as I am aware that the most estimable and amiable -qualities adorn the wives and daughters of our isle, I cannot but be -the more solicitous that their outward deportment and appearance should -exhibit a fair specimen of their inward worth.</p> - -<p>“An upright heart, and sensibility of soul, are doubtlessly the most -noble qualifications of the fair sex. These, Englishwomen possess in -an eminent degree. But there are lighter, and perhaps more catching -attractions, which, though they will not bear a competition, are -nevertheless great smoothers of the rough passages of life, and very -necessary conducives to social happiness.”</p> - -<p>It is the opinion of wiser heads than mine, that no circumstance, -however trifling in itself, should be neglected, which strengthens -the bonds of an honorable and mutual attachment; and so great is the -privilege allowed for this purpose, that it is deemed laudable in woman -to collect into herself all the innocent advantages, mentally and -corporeally, which may render her most admirable and precious in the -eyes of him who may be, or is, her husband.</p> - -<p>This latter sentiment reminds me to impress upon my young friend, that -there are shades of demeanor which must be varied according to the -sex,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span> degree, and affinity of the persons with whom she converses. To -men of all ranks and relations, she must ever hold a reserve on certain -subjects, and indeed on almost every occasion, that she does not deem -necessary to observe with regard to her own sex. To inferiors of both -sexes she must ever preserve a gracious condescension; but to the men a -certain air of majesty must be mixed with it, that she need not assume -to the women. To her equals, particularly of the male sex, her manners -must never lose sight of a dignity sufficient to remind them that she -expects respect will be joined with probable intimacy. In short, no -intimacy should ever be so familiar as to allow of any infringement -on the decent reserves which are the only preservers of refinement in -friendship and love. What are called <em>cronies</em> amongst girls, are -among the worst of connexions, as they generally are the very hotbeds -of fancified love-fits, secrecies, and really vulgar tale-bearing.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Celestial friendship!</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whene’er she stoops to visit earth, one shrine</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The goddess finds, and one alone,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To make her sweet amends for absent Heaven,—</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The bosom of a friend, where heart meets heart,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reciprocally soft—</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Each other’s pillow to repose divine!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>This friendship is indeed the gift of Heaven—a boon more precious -than much fine gold; but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span> it is not usually to be found in school -<em>cronies</em>, or in the confidence of misses, whose unbosomings -usually consist of flirtations, complaints against parents and -guardians, and schemes for future parties of pleasure. Friendship is -too sacred for these pretenders; under her influence, “heart meets -heart,” and acknowledges her as the pledge of Heaven to man, of -immortality, and endless joys. To such an intimate your whole soul -may be laid open. But such an intimate is rare. You may meet her once -in the shape of a female friend, and in that of a tender husband! But -believe not that her appearance will be more frequent. Hers are “like -angels’ visits, few and far between!” Earth would be too much like -heaven were it otherwise.</p> - -<p>To the generality, then, of your equals, while you are affable and -amiable with them all, you must be intimate with few, and preserve an -ingenuous reserve with most. Show them your sense of propriety demands -a certain distance, and with redoubled respect they will yield what you -require. With men of your acquaintance, you ought to be more reserved -than with women. But while I counsel such dignity of manners, you -must not suppose that I mean starchness, stiffness, prudery; I only -recommend the modesty of the virgin—the sober dignity of matron years.</p> - -<p>The present familiarity between the sexes is both shocking to -delicacy, and to the interests of women.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span> Woman is now treated by the -generality of men with a freedom that levels her with the commonest -and most vulgar objects of their amusements. She is addressed as -unceremoniously, treated as cavalierly, and left as abruptly, as the -veriest puppet they could pick up at a Bartholomew Fair.</p> - -<p>We no longer see the respectful bow, the look of polite attention, when -a gentleman approaches a lady. He runs up to her; he seizes her by the -hand, shakes it roughly, asks a few questions, and, to show that he has -no interest in her answers, flies off again before she can make a reply.</p> - -<p>To cure our coxcombs of this conceited impertinence, I would strongly -exhort my young and lovely readers. When any man, who is not privileged -by the right of friendship or of kindred, to address her with an air of -affection, attempts to take her hand, let her withdraw it immediately, -with an air so declarative of displeasure, that he shall not presume -to repeat the offence. At no time ought she to volunteer shaking hands -with a male acquaintance, who holds not any particular bond of esteem -with regard to herself or family. A touch, a pressure of the hands, are -the only external signs a woman can give of entertaining a particular -regard for certain individuals; and to lavish this valuable power of -expression upon all comers, upon the impudent and contemptible, is an -indelicate extravagance which, I hope, needs only to be exposed to be -put forever out of countenance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span></p> - -<p>As to the salute, the pressure of the lips—that is an interchange -of affectionate greeting, or tender farewell, sacred to the dearest -connexions alone. Our parents—our brothers—our near kindred—our -husband—our lover, ready to become our husband,—our bosom’s inmate, -the friend of <em>our heart’s core</em>—to them are exclusively -consecrated the lips of delicacy, and wo be to her who yields them to -the stain of profanation!</p> - -<p>By the last word, I do not mean the embrace of vice, but merely that -indiscriminate facility which some young women have in permitting what -they call a <em>good-natured kiss</em>. These <em>good-natured kisses</em> -have often very bad effects, and can never be permitted without -injuring the fine gloss of that exquisite modesty, which is the fairest -garb of virgin beauty.</p> - -<p>I remember the Count M——, one of the most accomplished and handsomest -young men in Vienna. When I was there, he was passionately in love with -a girl of almost peerless beauty. She was the daughter of a man of -great rank and influence at court; and on these considerations, as well -as in regard to her charms, she was followed by a multitude of suitors. -She was lively and amiable, and treated them all with an affability -which still kept them in her train, although it was generally known -that she had avowed a predilection for Count M. and that preparations -were making for their nuptials. The Count was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span> of a refined mind and -delicate sensibility. He loved her for herself alone—for the virtues -which he believed dwelt in a beautiful form; and, like a lover of such -perfections, he never approached her without timidity, and when he -touched her, a fire shot through his veins that warned him never to -invade the vermilion sanctuary of her lips. Such were the feelings, -when one night at his intended father-in-law’s, a party of young people -were met to celebrate a certain festival. Several of the young lady’s -rejected suitors were present. Forfeits were one of the pastimes, and -all went on with the greatest merriment, till the Count was commanded -by some witty mademoiselle to redeem his glove by saluting the cheek -of his intended bride. The Count blushed, trembled, advanced to his -mistress, retreated, advanced again—and at last, with a tremor that -shook every fibre in his frame, with a modest grace he put the soft -ringlet which played upon her cheek to his lips, and retired to demand -his redeemed pledge in evident confusion. His mistress gaily smiled, -and the game went on. One of her rejected suitors, but who was of a -merry unthinking disposition, was adjudged, by the same indiscreet -crier of the forfeits,—“as his last treat before he hanged himself,” -she said,—to snatch a kiss from the lips of the object of his recent -vows—</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Lips whose broken sighs such fragrance fling,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As Love had fanned them freshly with his wing!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span></p> - -<p>A lively contest between the lady and the gentleman lasted for a -minute; but the lady yielded, though in the midst of a convulsive -laugh. And the Count had the mortification, the agony, to see the lips, -which his passionate and delicate love would not allow him to touch, -kissed with roughness and repetition by another man, and one whom he -despised. Without a word, he rose from his chair, left the room—and -the house; and, by that <em>good-natured kiss</em>, the fair boast of -Vienna lost her husband and her lover. The Count never saw her more.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span></p> - - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="Management">ON THE MANAGEMENT OF THE PERSON IN DANCING, AND IN THE EXERCISE OF -OTHER FEMALE ACCOMPLISHMENTS.</h3> - - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On with the dance! let joy be unconfined.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 13em;"><i>Childe Harold.</i></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>It is vain to expend large sums of money and large portions of time in -the acquirement of accomplishments, unless some attention be also paid -to the attainment of a certain grace in their exercise, which though a -circumstance distinct from themselves, is the secret of their charms -and pleasure-exciting quality.</p> - -<p>As dancing is the accomplishment most calculated to display a fine -form, elegant taste, and graceful carriage, to advantage; so towards -it, our regards must be particularly turned; and we shall find that -when Beauty, in all her power, is to be set forth, she cannot choose a -more effective exhibition.</p> - -<p>By the <em>exhibition</em>, it must not be understood that I mean to -insinuate anything like that scenic exhibition which we may expect -from professors of the art, who often, regardless of modesty, not only -display the symmetry of their persons, but indelicately expose them, -by most improper dresses and attitudes, on the public stage. What I -propose by calling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span> dancing an elegant mode of showing a fine form to -advantage, has nothing more in it, than to teach the lovely young woman -to move unembarrassed and with peculiar grace through the mazes of a -dance, performed either in a private circle, or public ball.</p> - -<p>It must always be remembered, and it cannot be too often repeated, -“That whatever it is worth while to do, it is worth while to do -<em>well</em>.” Therefore, as all times and nations have deemed dancing a -salubrious, decorous, and beautiful exercise, or rather happy pastime -and celebration of festivity, I cannot but regard it with particular -complacency. Dancing carries with it a banquet, alike for taste and -feeling. The spectator of a well-ordered English ball sees, at one -view, in a number of elegant young women, every species of female -loveliness. He beholds the perfection of personal proportion. They -are attired with all the gay habiliments of fashion and of fancy; and -their harmonious and agile movements unfold to him, at every turn, the -ever-varying, ever-charming grace of motion.</p> - -<p>Thus far his senses only are gratified. But the pleasure stops not -there. His best feelings receive their share also. He looks on each -gay countenance, he sees hilarity in every step; he listens to their -delightful converse, communicated by snatches; and, with a pleasure -sympathizing with theirs, he cannot but acknowledge that dancing is -one of the most innocent and rational, as well as the most elegant, -amusements of youth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span></p> - -<p>It is indeed the favorite pastime of nature. We find it in courts, we -meet it on the village green. Here the rustic swain whispers his ardent -suit to his blushing maid, while his beating heart bounds against hers -in the swift wheel of the rapid dance. There the polished courtier -breathes a soft sigh into the ear of the lady of his vows, as he and -she timidly entwine their arms in the graceful <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">allemande</i>. But -dancing has been appropriated to higher purposes than these; it formed -a part of the religious ceremonies of the Jews.</p> - -<p>In every age of fashion but the present, dancing was as much expected -from young persons of both sexes, as that they should join in smiles -when mutually pleased. In days of yore, in the most polite eras of -Greece and Rome, and of the chivalrous ages, we find that dancing was -a favorite amusement with the first ranks of men. Kings, heroes, and -unbearded youth, alike mingled in the graceful exercise. Even in our -own island, we read of the splendid balls given by our Plantagenets and -Tudors; and that every prince and nobleman contended in happy rivalry -who should best acquit themselves in the dance. Here it was that the -royal Harry lost his heart to the lovely Anna Bullen, and in such -scenes did the gallant lords of his virgin daughter’s court breathe out -their souls at the feet of British beauty.</p> - -<p>Such <em>was</em> the court of England! but now, where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> is “the merry -dance, the mirth-awakening viol?” In vain our princes led forth their -royal sisters and the fairest ladies in the land to celebrate, with -festive steps, the birth-day; our noble youth, smit with a love of -grave folly, abandon the ball for the gaming-table. The elegant society -of the fair is disregarded and exchanged for fellowship with grooms and -masters of the whip. Shame on them! I cannot descant farther on such -vulgar desertion of all that is lovely and decorous.</p> - -<p>Besides the royal brothers, a few yet remain amongst the young men of -our higher ranks, who, in this respect, set a worthy example to the -youth of inferior stations; and them we still meet at the assemblies of -taste, moving with propriety and elegance in the social dance. To make -acceptable partners in the minuet, cotillon, &c. with these yet loyal -votaries of Terpsichore, I beg leave to offer a few hints to my gentle -readers.</p> - -<p>Extraordinary as it may seem, at a period when dancing is so entirely -neglected by men in general, women appear to be taking the most pains -to acquire the art. Our female youth are now not satisfied with what -used to be considered <em>a good dancing-master</em>; that is, one who -made teaching his sole profession; but now our girls must be taught by -the leading dancers at the opera-house.</p> - -<p>The consequence is, when a young lady rises to dance, we no longer -see the graceful, easy step of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span> the gentlewoman, but the labored, -and often indelicate exhibition of the posture-mistress.—Dances -from <em>ballets</em> are introduced; and instead of the jocund and -beautifully-organized movements of hilarity in concord, we are shocked -by the most extravagant theatrical imitations. The chaste minuet -is banished; and, in place of dignity and grace, we behold strange -wheelings on one leg, stretching out the other till our eye meets the -garter; and a variety of endless contortions, fitter for the zenana of -an Eastern satrap, or the gardens of Mahomet, than the ball-room of an -Englishwoman of quality and virtue.</p> - -<p>These <em>ballet</em> dances are, we now see, generally attempted. I may -say <em>attempted</em>, for not one young woman in five hundred, can, -from the very nature of the thing, after all her study, perform them -better than could be done any day by the commonest <em>figurante</em> -on the stage. We all know, that to be a fine opera-dancer, requires -unremitting practice, and a certain disciplining of the limbs, which -hardly any private gentlewoman would consent to undergo. Hence, ladies -can never hope to arrive at any comparison with even the poorest public -professor of the art; and therefore, to attempt the extravagancies of -it, is as absurd as it is indelicate.</p> - -<p>The utmost in dancing to which a gentlewoman ought to aspire, is an -agile and graceful movement of her feet, an harmonious motion with her -arms,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> and a corresponding easy carriage of her whole body. But, when -she has gained this proficiency, should she find herself so unusually -mistress of the art as to be able, in any way, to rival the professors -by whom she has been taught, she must ever hold in mind, that <em>the -same style of dancing is not equally proper for all kinds of dances</em>.</p> - -<p>For instance, the English country-dance and the French cotillon require -totally different movements. I know that it is a common thing to -introduce all the varieties of opera-steps into the simple figure of -the former. This ill-judged fashion is inconsistent with the character -of the dance, and consequently so destroys the effect, that no pleasure -is produced to the eye of the judicious spectator by so discordant an -exhibition. The characteristic of an English country-dance is that -of <em>gay simplicity</em>. The steps should be few and easy, and the -corresponding motion of the arms and body unaffected, modest, and -graceful.</p> - -<p>Before I go further on the subject, I cannot but stop a little to dwell -more particularly on the necessity there is for more attention than we -usually find paid to the management of the arms, and general person, in -dancing.</p> - -<p>In looking on at a ball, perhaps you will see that every woman, in a -dance of twenty couple, moves her feet with sufficient attention to -beauty and elegance; but, with regard to the deportment,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span> of the rest -of the person, most likely you will not discover one in a hundred who -seems to know more about it than the most uncultivated damsel that ever -jogged at a village wake.</p> - -<p>I cannot exactly describe what it is that we see in the carriage of -our young ladies in the dance; for it is difficult to point out a want -by any other expression than a negative. But it is only requisite for -my readers to recall to memory the many inanimate, ungraceful forms, -from the waist upwards, that they nightly see at balls, and I need not -describe more circumstantially.</p> - -<p>For these ladies to suppose that they are fine dancers because they -execute a variety of difficult steps with ease and precision, is a -great mistake. The motion of the feet is but half the art of dancing; -the other, and indeed the most conspicuous part, lies in the movement -of the body, arms, and head. Here elegance must be conspicuous.</p> - -<p>The body should always be poised with such ease as to command a power -of graceful undulation, in harmony with the motion of the limbs in the -dance. Nothing is more ugly than a stiff body and neck during this -lively exercise. The general carriage should be elevated and light; -the chest thrown out, the head easily erect, but flexible to move -with every turn of the figure; and the limbs should be all braced and -animated with the spirit of motion, which seems ready to bound through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span> -the very air. By this elasticity pervading the whole person when the -dancer moves off, her flexible shape will gracefully sway with the -varied steps of her feet; and her arms, instead of hanging loosely by -her side, or rising abruptly and squarely up to take hands with her -partner, will be raised in beautiful and harmonious unison and time -with the music and the figure; and her whole person will thus exhibit -to the delighted eye perfection in beauty, grace, and motion.</p> - -<p>This attention to the movement of the general figure, and particularly -to that of the arms (for with them is the charm of elegant action,) -though, in a moderated degree, is equally applicable to the English -country dance and the Scotch reel, as to the minuet, the cotillon, and -other French dances.</p> - -<p>A general idea of natural grace, in all dances, being laid down as a -first principle in this elegant art, I shall suggest a few remarks on -the leading characters of each style; and from them, I hope, my fair -friends will be able to gather some rules which may serve them as -useful auxiliaries to the lessons of their dancing-master.</p> - -<p>The English country-dance, as its very name implies, consists of -simplicity and cheerfulness; hence the female who engages in it, must -aim at nothing more, in treading its easy mazes, than executing a few -simple steps with unaffected elegance. Her body, her arms, the turn of -her head, the expression<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> of her countenance, all must bear the same -character of negligent grace, of elegant activity, of decorous gaiety.</p> - -<p>The Scotch reel has steps appropriated to itself, and in the dance -can never be displaced for those of France, without an absurdity too -ridiculous even to imagine without laughing. There are no dancers -in the world more expressive of inward hilarity and happiness than -the Scotch are, when performing in their own reels. The music is -sufficient—so jocund are its sounds—to set a whole company on their -feet in a moment, and to dance with all their might, till it ceases, -like people bit by the tarantula. Hence, as the character of reels is -merriment, they must be performed with much more <em>joyance</em> of -manner than even the country-dance; and, therefore, they are better -adapted, as society is now constituted, to the social private circle, -than to the public ball. They demand a frankness of deportment, an -undisguised jocularity, which few large parties will properly admit; -therefore, they are more at home in the baronial and kindred-filled -hall of the thane of the Highland clan, than in the splendid and mixed -ball-room of the now modish Anglo-Scottish earl.</p> - -<p>French dances, which includes minuets, cotillons, and all the round -of <em>ballet</em> figures, admit of every new refinement and dexterity -in the agile art; and, while exhibiting in them, there is no step, -no turn,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span> no attitude, within the verge of maiden delicacy, that the -dancer may not adopt and practise.</p> - -<p>I must acknowledge that there is something in the harmonious and -undulating movements of the minuet, particularly pleasing to my idea -of female grace and dignity; and I remember seeing her Highness the -Princess de P——, at the court of Naples, go through the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">minuet de -la Cour</i> with so eminent a degree of enchanting elegance, that there -was not a person present who was not in raptures with her deportment.</p> - -<p>The young Archduke, C——, of A——, was then a youth, and an incognito -visitant with the Prince de V—— F——, and he was so charmed with -the dancing of her highness, whose partner was the renowned General -Marchese di M——, that, in his own heroic manner, he exclaimed to me, -who then sat by his side,—“Ah! madam, that is more interesting than -even the Pyrrhic dance! It reminds me of the beautiful movement of the -sun and moon in the heavens!”</p> - -<p>The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">minuet</i> is now almost out of fashion, but we yet have its -serious movements in many of the dances adopted from the French -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ballet</i>; and in these every gradation of grace, and, if I may say -it, sentiment in action, may be discovered. The rapid changes of the -cotillon are admirably calculated for the display of elegant gaiety; -and I hope that their animated evolvements will long continue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span> a -favorite accomplishment and amusement with our youthful fair.</p> - -<p>Though much of graceful display is made in these dances, yet there are -many rivals in the cotillon contending for the palm of superiority; -and the contest, throughout, if maintained with the original elegant -decorum of the design, may be continued with undeviating modesty and -discretion.</p> - -<p>But with regard to the lately introduced German waltz, I cannot speak -so favorably; I must agree with Goethé, when writing of the national -dance of his country, “that none but husbands and wives can with any -propriety be partners in the waltz.”</p> - -<p>There is something in the close approximation of persons, in the -attitudes, and in the motion, which ill agrees with the delicacy of -woman, should she be placed in such a situation with any other man than -the most intimate connexion she can have in life. Indeed, I have often -heard men, of no very over-strained feeling, say, “that there are very -few women in the world with whom they could bear to dance the German -waltz.”</p> - -<p>The fandango, though graceful in its own country—because danced, -from custom, with as reserved a mind as our maidens would make -a courtsy,—is, nevertheless, when attempted here, too great a -display of the person for any modest Englishwoman to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span> venture. It -is a solo! Imagine what must be the assurance of the young woman, -who, unaccustomed by the habits of her country to such singular -exhibitions of herself, could get up in a room full of company, and, -with an unblushing face, go through all the evolutions, postures, and -vaultings, of the Spanish fandango? Certainly, there are few discreet -men in England who would say, “such a woman I should like for my wife!”</p> - -<p>The castanets, which are used in this dance, by attracting -extraordinary attention, afford another argument against its being -adopted anywhere but on the stage. The tambourin, the cymbals, and all -other noisy accompaniments, in the hands of a lady-dancer, are equally -blameable; and though a woman may, by their means, exhibit her agility -and person to advantage, she may depend on it, that while the artist -only is admired, the woman will sink into contempt; and that, though -she may possibly meet with lovers to throw a score of embroidered -handkerchiefs at her feet, she will hardly encounter one of a thousand -who will venture to trust himself to the offering her the bond of a -single gold ring.</p> - -<p>The bullero, another of our Spanish importations, is a dance of so -questionable a description, that I cannot but proscribe it also. It may -be performed with perfect modesty; but the sentiment of it depends so -entirely on the disposition of the dancer,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span> that Delicacy dare hardly -venture to enrol herself in its lists, lest the partner chosen for her -might be of a temper to turn its gaiety into licentiousness; to produce -blushes of shame where she promised herself the glow of pleasure, and -send her away from what ought to have been an innocent amusement, -filled with the bitterness of insulted delicacy.</p> - -<p>In short, in addressing my fair countrywomen on this subject, I would -sum up my advice, in regard to the choice of dances, by warning -them against the introduction of new-fangled fashions of this sort. -Let them leave the languishing and meretricious attitudes of modern -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ballet</i>-teachers to the dancing-girls of India, or to the -Circassian slaves of Turkey, whose disgraceful business is to please a -tyrant for whom they can feel no love.</p> - -<p>Let our British fair also turn away from the almost equally unchaste -dances of the southern kingdoms of the continent, and, content with -the gay step of France, and the active merriment of Scotland, with -their own festive movements, continue their native country balls to -their blameless delight, and to the gratification of every tasteful and -benevolent observer.</p> - -<p>While thus remarking on the manner of dancing, it may not be -unacceptable to add a few words on the dress most appropriate to its -light and unembarrassed motions.</p> - -<p>Long trains are, of course, too cumbrous an appendage<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span> to be -intentionally assumed when proposing to dance; but it must also be -remarked, that very short petticoats are as inelegant as the others -are inconvenient. Scanty circumscribed habiliments impede the action -of the limbs, and, besides their indelicacy, show the leg in the least -graceful of all possible points of view. The most elegant attire for -a ball is, that the under garments should be absolutely short, but -the upper one, which should be of light material, should reach at -least to the top of the instep. It should also be sufficiently full -to fall easily in folds from the waist downwards to the foot. By this -arrangement, when the dancer begins her graceful exercise, the drapery -will elegantly adapt itself to the motion and contour of her limbs; and -falling accidentally on her foot, or as accidentally when she bounds -along, discovering, under its flying folds, her beautifully-turned -ankle. Symmetry and grace will be occasionally displayed, almost -unconsciously, and thus Modesty, taken unawares, will adorn, with -blushes, the perfect lineaments of female beauty.</p> - -<p>What has been said in behalf of simple and appropriate dancing, may -also be whispered in the ear of the fair practitioner in music; and, by -analogy she may, not unbeneficially, apply the suggestions to her own -case.</p> - -<p>There are many young women, who, when they sit down to the piano or -the harp, or to sing, twist<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span> themselves into so many contortions, and -writhe their bodies and faces about into such actions and grimaces, -as would almost incline one to believe that they are suffering under -the torture of the toothach, or the gout. Their bosoms heave, their -shoulders shrug, their heads swing to the right and left, their lips -quiver, their eyes roll; they sigh, they pant, they seem ready to -expire! And what is all this about? They are merely playing a favorite -concerto, or singing a new Italian song.</p> - -<p>If it were possible for these conceit-intoxicated warblers, these -languishing dolls, to guess what rational spectators say of their -follies, they would be ready to break their instruments and be dumb -forever. What they call <em>expression in singing</em>, at the rate they -would show it, is only fit to be exhibited on the stage, when the -character of the song intends to portray the utmost ecstasy of passion -to a sighing swain. In short, such an echo to the words and music of a -love ditty, is very improper in any young woman who would wish to be -thought as pure in heart as in person. If amatory addresses are to be -sung, let the expression be in the voice and the composition of the -air, not in the looks and gestures of the lady-singing. The utmost that -she ought to allow herself to do, when thus breathing out the accents -of love, is to wear a serious, tender countenance. More than this is -bad, and may produce reflections in the minds of the hearers very -inimical to the reputation of the fair warbler.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span></p> - -<p>While touching on song, it may not be unwelcome to my truly virgin -readers to have their own delicate rejections sanctioned by a matron’s -judgment against a horde of amorous legends, now chanted forth in -almost every assembly, where they put their heads. Pretty music, and -elegant poetry, seem sufficient excuses to obtain, in these days, not -only pardon, but approbation, for the most exceptionable verses that -can fall from the pen of man. Such madrigals are now sung with equal -applause by mother and daughter, chaste and unchaste; all unite in -shamelessly breathing forth words, (and with appropriate languishments -too,) which hardly would become the lips of a Thais! Libertines may -feel pleasure in such exhibitions—men of principle must turn away -disgusted.</p> - -<p>Set then this music of Paphos far aside; instead of songs of wantons, -if we are to have amatory odes, let us listen to the chaste pleadings -of a Petrarch, to the mutual vows of virtuous attachment. My young -friend may then sing with downcast eyes and timid voice, but no blush -needs to stain her cheek—no thrill of shame shake her bosom. She -merely chants of nature’s feelings; and Modesty veiling the sensibility -she describes, angels might “lean from heaven to hear.”</p> - -<p>By this slight sketch, my dear readers will perceive that I mean -<em>simplicity</em> to be the principle and the decoration of all their -actions; as it should pervade<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> them in the dance, so it should imbue -their voice and action in playing and in singing.</p> - -<p>Let their attitude at the piano or the harp be easy and graceful. I -strongly exhort them to avoid a stiff, awkward, elbowing position at -either; they must observe an elegant flow of figure at both. The latter -certainly admits of most grace, as the shape of the instrument is -calculated, in every respect, to show a fine figure to advantage. The -contour of the whole form, the turn and polish of a beautiful hand and -arm, the richly-slippered and well-made foot on the pedal stops, the -gentle motion of a lovely neck, and, above all, the sweetly-tempered -expression of an intelligent countenance; these are shown at one glance -when the fair performer is seated unaffectedly, yet gracefully, at the -harp.</p> - -<p>Similar beauty of position may be seen in a lady’s management of a -lute, a guitar, a mandolin, or a lyre. The attitude at a pianoforte, -or at a harpsichord, is not so happily adapted to grace. From the -shape of the instrument, the performer must sit directly in front of -a straight line of keys; and her own posture being correspondingly -erect and square, it is hardly possible that it should not appear -rather inelegant. But if it attain not the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ne plus ultra</i> of -grace, at least she may prevent an air of stiffness; she may move -her hands easily on the keys, and bear her head with that elegance -of carriage which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span> cannot fail to impart its own character to the -whole of her figure. One of the most graceful forms that I ever saw -sit at an instrument, is that of St. Cecilia, painted by Sir Joshua -Reynolds, playing on the organ. It is the portrait of the late Mrs. -R. B. Sheridan; and, from the simplicity of the attitude, and the -graceful elevation of the head, it is, without exception, one of the -most interesting pictures I ever beheld. A living instance of what -beauty and grace, elegance and propriety combined, can do, has always -been admired in the Marchioness of D—— by all those who ever had -the felicity to see and hear her at the piano; an engraving of her -portrait, in that attitude, would teach every female lover of the art -unaffected elegance, much more effectually than all that the advices -and ability of masters can ever be able to perform.</p> - -<p>If ladies, in meditating on grace of deportment, would rather consult -the statues of fine sculptors, and the figures of excellent painters, -than the lessons of their dancing-masters, or the dictates of their -looking-glasses, we should, doubtless, see simplicity where we now -find affectation, and a thousand ineffable graces taking place of the -present <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">régime</i> of absurdity and conceit.</p> - -<p>It was by studying the perfect sculpture of Greece and Rome, that a -certain lady of rank, eminent for her peculiarly beautiful attitudes, -acquired so great a superiority in mien above her fair contemporaries<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span> -of every court in which she became an inmate. It was by meditating on -the classic pictures of Poussin, that one of the first tragic actresses -on the French stage learnt to move and look like the <em>daughter of -the sun</em>. And by a similar study, has our own Melpomene caught -inspiration from the pencil of Corregio and Rubens.</p> - -<p>Glancing at the graphic art, reminds me that some degree of proficiency -in this interesting accomplishment is also an object of study with my -fair young countrywomen. I shall not make any observation on their -progress in the art itself, but only with regard to their manner of -practising it.</p> - -<p>Both for health and beauty’s sake, they should be careful not to stoop -too much, or to sit too long in the exercise of the pencil. A bending -position of the chest and head, when frequently assumed, is apt to -contract the lungs, round the back, redden the face, and give painful -digestions and headach. An awkward posture in writing, reading, or -sewing, is productive of the same bad effects; and, what may seem -almost incredible, (but many who have witnessed the same, can, I am -sure, give their evidence in support of my representation,) there are -young persons, who, when writing, drawing, reading, or working, keep a -sort of ludicrous time with their occupations, by making a succession -of unmeaning and hideous grimaces. I have seen a pretty young woman, -while writing a letter to her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span> lover, draw up her lips, and twist the -muscles of her face in every direction that her pen moved; and so ugly -did she look during this sympathetic performance, that I could not -forbear thinking that, could her swain see the object then dictating -her vows, he would take fright at the metamorphosis, and never be made -to believe it could be the same person.</p> - -<p>Mumbling to yourself, while reading, is also another very inelegant -habit. A person should either read determinately so much aloud as to -be heard distinctly by the company present, or peruse her book without -even moving her lips. An inward muttering, or a silent motion of the -mouth, while reading, is equally unpleasant to the observer, and -disfiguring to the observed.</p> - -<p>In short, there is nothing, however minute in manners, however -insignificant in appearance, that does not demand some portion of -attention from a well-bred and highly-polished young woman. An author -of no small literary renown, has observed, that several of the minutest -habits or acts of some individuals, may give sufficient reasons to -guess at their temper. The choice of a gown, or even the folding -and sealing of a letter, will bespeak the shrew and the scold, the -careless and the negligent. This observation I have made myself, not -only in this, but in several other countries. The Marchioness of B—— -addressed me, a few years ago,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span> in a letter so cleanly folded, so -carefully sealed, that I was really prejudiced in her favor, ere I saw -that my surmises were right; and the flame-color ribbon, fluttering -about the Hon. Mrs. D.’s head, had given me a foreboding of her -acrimonious and fiery disposition. These fine and almost imperceptible -objects are the touches which bring the whole to its utmost perfection. -They are the varnish to the picture, the polish to the gem, the points -to the diamond.</p> - -<p>I will go further upon this subject. The very voice of an individual, -the tone she assumes in speaking to strangers, or even familiarly to -her friends, will lead a keen observer to discover what elements her -temper is made of. The low key belongs to the sullen, sulky, obstinate, -the shrill note to the petulant, the pert, the impatient; some will -pronounce the common and trite question “how <em>do</em> you <em>do</em>?” -with such harshness and raucity, that they seem positively angry with -you that you should ever <em>do</em> at all. Some effect a lispingness, -which at once betrays childishness and downright nonsense; others will -bid their words to gallop so swiftly, that the ablest ear is unable to -follow the rapid race, and gathers nothing but confused and unmeaning -sounds. All these extremes are to be avoided; and, although nature has -differently formed the organs of speech for different individuals, yet -there is a mode to correct nature’s own aberrations. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span> have heard of -sensible men, who, merely for the tone of voice which did not quite -harmonize with their ears, have dropped their connexion with women, -who, in all other points were unexceptionable.</p> - -<p>Admit this, and another salutary truth will be made manifest. If -good-breeding and graceful refinement are ever <em>most proper</em>, -they are always so. It is not sufficient that Amaryllis is amiable and -elegant in her whole deportment to strangers and to her acquaintance; -she must be undeviatingly so to her most intimate friends, to nearest -relations, to father, mother, brothers, sisters, husband. She must have -no <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">dishabille</i> for them, either of mind or person.</p> - -<p>This last word inclines me to pursue the hint further; to exhort my -fair readers, while I plead for consistency in manners, also to carry -the analogy to dress. If they would always appear amiable, elegant, -and endearing to the beings with whom they are to spend their lives, -let them always make those beings the first objects for whose pleasure -their accomplishments, their manners, and their dress are to be -cultivated. Let them never appear before these tender relatives in the -disgusting negligence of disordered and soiled clothes. By this has -many a lovely girl lost her lover; and by this has many an amiable wife -alienated the affections of her husband.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span></p> - -<p>Let me, then, in concluding this chapter, again repeat, that -consistency is the soul of female power, the charm of her fascination, -the bond of her social happiness.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CONTINUATION_OF_THE_SAME_SUBJECT">CONTINUATION OF THE SAME SUBJECT.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Observe the just gradation of degree.”</span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>The carriage of a woman to her equals being founded on a just -appreciation of their merits, and a proper respect to herself, the same -sentiment will be found to pervade her conduct to her superiors in rank.</p> - -<p>With regard to men, when they occupy a higher station than herself, she -must proportion reverential courtesy to them, according to the rules of -court ceremony. If she knows them merely as officers high in authority -under the king, or as nobles distinguished by their honors, her manner -must then be of calm, dignified respect. But when she finds that merit -is yet higher in any of these men than his titles, then, let her show -the homage of the soul, as well as that of the body; for real greatness -ennobles the head which bows.</p> - -<p>With regard to her own sex, the same rule must be observed. There are -certain regulations in society which are called Laws of Precedence. -They are of as much use in maintaining a due and harmonious order -amongst civilized men and women, as the law of attraction is to -preserve the heavenly bodies in their proper orbits. As one star -differs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span> from another in magnitude and splendor, in proportion to the -destiny it hath to fulfil; so do the talents and degrees of men vary -according to the allotted duties they have to perform. Hence, as in -astronomy, we think not of despising Mercury, because he is not as -large as Saturn, nor of speaking of our own Earth as a planet of no -account, because she has not four moons like Jupiter; so, by parity of -reasoning, we do not esteem our inferiors or equals the less, because -they do not fill the first orders in society. All ranks have their -proper place, the station in which they can be the most useful; and it -is in proportion as they perform their respective duties, that we must -respect the individuals.</p> - -<p>We, therefore, regard society as a grand machine, in which each member -has the place best fitted for him; or, to make use of a more common -illustration, as a vast drama, in which every person has the part -allotted to him most appropriate to his abilities. One enacts the -King, others the Lords, others the Commons; but all obey the Great -Director, who best knows what is in man. Regarding things in this -light, all arrogance, all pride, all envyings and contempt of others, -from their relative degrees, disappear, as emotions to which we have no -pretensions. We neither endowed ourselves with high birth or eminent -talents. We are altogether beings of a creation independent of our own<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span> -will; and, therefore, bearing our own honors as a gift, not as a right, -we should condescend to our inferiors, (whose place it might have been -our lot to fill,) and regard with deference our superiors, whom Heaven, -by so elevating, has intended that we should respect.</p> - -<p>This sentiment of order in the mind, this conviction of the beautiful -harmony in a well-organized civil society, gives us dignity with our -inferiors, without alloying it with the smallest particle of pride; -by keeping them at a due distance, we merely maintain ourselves and -them in the rank in which a higher Power has placed us; and the -condescension of our general manners to them, and our kindness in their -exigencies, and generous approbation of their worth, are sufficient -acknowledgments of sympathy, to show that we avow the same nature with -themselves, the same origin, the same probation, the same end.</p> - -<p>Our demeanor with our equals is more a matter of policy. To be -indiscreetly familiar, to allow of liberties being taken with your -good-nature; all this is likely to happen with people of the same -rank with ourselves, unless we hold our mere acquaintance at a proper -distance, by a certain reserve. A woman may be gay, ingenuous, -perfectly amiable to her associates, and yet reserved. Avoid all -sudden intimacies, all needless secret-telling, all closeting about -nonsense, caballing, taking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span> mutual liberties with each other in regard -to domestic arrangements; in short, beware of familiarity! The kind -of familiarity which is common in families, and amongst women of the -same classes in society, is that of an indiscriminate gossiping; an -interchange of thoughts without any effusion of the heart. Then an -unceremonious way of reproaching each other, for a real or supposed -neglect; a coarse manner of declaring your faults; a habit of jangling -on trifles; a habit of preferring your own whims or ease before that of -the persons about you; an indelicate way of breaking into each other’s -privacy. In short, doing everything that declares the total oblivion of -all politeness and decent manners.</p> - -<p>This series of errors happens every day amongst brothers and sisters, -husbands and wives, and female acquaintances: and what are the -consequences? Distaste, disgust, everlasting quarrels, and perhaps -total rupture in the end!</p> - -<p>I have seen many families bound together by the tenderest affection; I -have seen many hearts wrought into each other by the sweet amalgamation -of friendship; but with none did I ever find this delicious foretaste -of the society in Elysium, where a never-failing politeness was not -mingled in all their thoughts, words, and actions, to each other.</p> - -<p>Deportment to superiors must ever carry with it that peculiar degree -of ceremony which their rank<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span> demands. No intimacy of intercourse with -them, no friendship and affection from them, ought ever to make us -forget the certain respect which their stations require. Thus, for a -mere gentlewoman to think of arrogating to herself the same homage of -courtesy that is paid to a lady of quality, or to deny the just tribute -of precedence, in every respect, to that lady, would be as absurd as -presumptuous. Yet we see it; and ridicule, from the higher circles, -is all she derives from her vain pretensions. By the same rule, every -woman of rank must yield due courtesy to those above her, in the just -gradation, according to their elevation in the scale of nobility. The -law of courts on this subject is soon understood, and, as a guide to -my young readers, who may not yet have been sufficiently informed, I -shall, beneath, give them a list of female titles, according to their -precedence in the march of hereditary and other honors. I shall begin -with the highest rank, as it is that which, in all public processions, -or in private parties, has the right of standing or moving first.</p> - -<p>As the crown of the whole, I set down a Queen. Then Princesses. Then -follow, in regular order, Duchesses, Marchionesses, Countesses. The -Wives of the eldest sons of Marquisses. The Wives of the younger sons -of Dukes. Daughters of Dukes. Daughters of Marquisses. Viscountesses. -Wives of the Eldest sons of Earls. Daughters of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span> Earls. Wives of the -younger sons of Marquisses. Baronesses. Wives of the eldest sons of -Viscounts. Daughters of Viscounts. Wives of the younger sons of Earls. -Wives of the eldest sons of Barons. Daughters of Barons. Wives of the -younger sons of Viscounts. Wives of the younger sons of Barons. Wives -of Baronets. Wives of Privy Counsellors. Commoners. Wives of Judges. -Wives of Knights of the Garter. Wives of Knights of the Bath. Wives of -Knights of the Thistle. Wives of Knights Bachelors. Wives of Generals. -Wives of Admirals. Wives of the eldest sons of Baronets. Daughters of -Knights, according to their fathers’ precedence. Wives of the younger -sons of Baronets. Wives of Esquires and Gentlemen. Daughters of -Esquires and Gentlemen. Wives of Citizens and Burgesses. The Wives of -Military and Naval Officers of course take precedence of each other in -correspondence with the rank of their husbands.</p> - -<p>This scale, if every young lady would bear in mind and conform to it, -is a sufficient guide to the mere ceremony of precedence; and would -effectually prevent those dangerous disputes in ball-rooms about -places, and those rude jostlings in going in and out of assemblies, -which are not more disagreeable than ill-bred. It is the perfection -of fine breeding to know your place, to be acquainted with that of -others; and to fall gracefully into your station accordingly. While -the gentlewoman is content to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span> move in the train of female honors, -the dignified decorum of step forms one graceful link in the chain -of society; but if she struggles to get before, strikes one to her -right, and the other to her left; treads down alike her equals and her -superiors, in her eagerness for pre-eminence; we fly from the shrew, -and declare her unworthy of fellowship with any class of well-ordered -females.</p> - -<p>The deference we pay to superiors, our inferiors will refund to -us; and therefore, if we wish to maintain “that proud submission, -that dignified obedience,” which binds the subject, through various -gradations, to the sovereign, we must teach our untractable spirits to -bend to the cogent reasons and salutary ordinances of high authority.</p> - -<p>Women in every country have a greater influence than men choose to -confess.</p> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Men’s earliest words are taught them from her lips.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Though haughtiness of mind will not allow them always to acknowledge -the truth, yet we see the proof in its effects; and, in consequence, -must exhort women, by yielding their deference to the laws of honorary -precedence, to teach men to obey them; and rather to emulate such -distinctions, than seek to pull down the possessors to the level of the -common herd.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CONCLUSION">CONCLUSION.</h3> -</div> - -<p class="poetry p0"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Can comeliness of form, or shape, or air,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With comeliness of words or deeds compare?</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">No! those at first th’ unwary heart may gain,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But these, these only, can the heart retain.”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><span class="smcap">Gay.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>When so much has been said of the body and its accoutrements, I cannot -but subjoin a few words on the intelligence which animates the frame, -and of the organ which imparts its meaning.</p> - -<p>Connected speech is granted to mankind alone. Parrots may prate, and -monkeys chatter; but it is only to the reasonable being that power of -combining ideas, expressing their import, and uttering, in audible -sounds, in all its various gradations, the language of sense and -judgment, of love and resentment, is awarded as a gift, that gives us a -proud and undeniable superiority to all the rest of the creation.</p> - -<p>To employ this faculty well and gracefully, is one grand object of -education. The mere organ itself, as to sound, is like a musical -instrument, to be modulated with elegance, or struck with the -disorderly nerve of coarseness and vulgarity.</p> - -<p>I must add to what has been said before on the subject, that excessive -rapidity of speaking is, in general, even with a clear enunciation, -very disagreeable;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span> but, when it is accompanied with a shrill voice, -the effect is inexpressibly discordant and hideous. The first orator -the heathen world ever knew, so far remedied the natural defects of -his speech, (and they were most embarrassing,) as to become the most -easy and persuasive of speakers. In like manner, when a young woman -finds any difficulty or inelegance in her organs, she ought to pay the -strictest attention to rectify the fault.</p> - -<p>Should she have too quick or encumbered an articulation, she ought -to read with extreme slowness for several hours in the day, and even -pay attention, in speaking, to check the rapidity or confusion of her -utterance. By similar antidotal means, she must attack a propensity -of talking in a high key. Better err in the opposite extreme, -while she is prosecuting her cure, as the voice will gradually and -imperceptibly attain its most harmonious pitch, than, by at first -attempting the medium, most likely retain too much of the screaming -key. A clear articulation, a tempered intonation, and in a moderate -key, are essentials in the voice of an accomplished female. Her -graceful peculiarities must be the gift of nature, or the effect of -cultivated taste. Fine judgment and delicate sensibility are the best -schoolmistresses on this subject. Indeed, where, in relation to man or -woman, shall we find that an improved understanding, and enlightened -mind, and a refined taste, are not the best polishers of manners, and -in all respects the most efficient handmaids of the Muses?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span></p> - -<p>Let me, then, in one short sentence, in one tender adieu, my fair -readers and endeared friends! enforce upon your minds, that if Beauty -be woman’s weapon, it must be feathered by the Graces, pointed by the -eye of Discretion, and shot by the hand of Virtue!</p> - -<p>Look, then, my sweet pupils, not merely to your mirrors, when you would -decorate yourselves for conquest, but consult the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">speculum</i>, -which will reflect your hearts and minds. Remember that it is the -affections of a sensible and reasonable soul you hope to subdue, and -seek for arms likely to carry the fortress.</p> - -<p>He that is worthy, must love corresponding excellence. Which of you -all would wish to marry a man merely for the color of his eye, or -the shape of his leg? Think not then worse of him than you would do -of yourselves; and hope not to satisfy his better wishes with the -possession of a merely handsome wife.</p> - -<p>Beauty of person will ever be found a dead letter, unless it be -animated with beauty of mind. “For ’tis the mind that makes the body -rich.” We must, then, not only cultivate the shape, the complexion, the -air, the attire, the manners, but most assiduously must our attention -be devoted to teach “the young idea how to shoot,” and to fashion the -unfolding mind to judgment and virtue. By such culture, it will not be -merely the charming girl, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span> captivating woman we shall present to -the world, but the dutiful daughter, affectionate sister, tender wife, -judicious mother, faithful friend, and amiable acquaintance.</p> - -<p>Let these, then, be fair images which will form themselves on the -models drawn by my not inexperienced pen! Let me see Beauty, whose soul -is virtue, approach me with the chastened step of Modesty; and, ere -she advances from behind the heavenly cloud that envelops her, I shall -behold Love, and all the graces, hovering in air to adorn and attend -her charms.</p> - -<p>This may be thy picture, lovely daughter of Albion! Make thyself, then -worthy of the likeness, and thou wilt fulfil the fondest wish of thine -unknown friend.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</h2> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="ON_THE_USE_OF_CORSETS">ON THE USE OF CORSETS.</h3> -</div> - - -<p>The following pages are abridged by an eminent English physician from -an Essay on the Use of Corsets, by Soemmerring, the German physiologist:</p> - -<p>Fashion lives on novelty, and we have on this account much charity for -its wanderings and eccentricities. Bonnets, with a snout as long as an -elephant’s proboscis, or a margin as broad as a Winchester bushel, are -merely ridiculous. Shoulders that look like wings, and sleeves as wide -as a petticoat, we think are not particularly graceful; but they have -at least the merit of being airy, and we take no offence. We cannot, -however, extend our indulgence to the compressed waist, which is the -rage at present. We know that as often as the waist is lengthened to -its natural limits, this tendency to abridge its diameter appears; and -we confess we are puzzled to account for the fact; for surely it is -strange, that a permanent prepossession should exist in favor of a mode -of dress which is at once ugly, unnatural, and pernicious. Were fashion -under the guidance of taste, the principles of drapery in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</span> painting -and sculpture would never be lost sight of in its changes. The clothes -that cover us may be disposed in an infinite variety of forms, without -violating those rules which the artist is careful to observe. The true -form of the body ought to be disclosed to the eye, without the shape -being exhibited in all its minutiæ, as in the dress of a harlequin; -but in no case should the natural proportions (supposing the figure to -be good) be changed. Ask the sculptor what he thinks of a fashionable -waist, pinched till it rivals the lady’s neck in tenuity, and he will -tell you it is monstrous. Consult the physician, and you will learn -that this is one of those follies in which no female can long indulge -with impunity; for health, and even life, are often sacrificed to it.</p> - -<p>Corsets are used partly as a warm covering to the chest, and partly to -furnish a convenient attachment to other parts of the female dress. -This is all proper and correct; but to these uses fashion superadds -others, originating in fantastical notions of beauty. Corsets are -employed to modify the shape, to render the chest as small below, and -as broad above, as possible, and to increase the elevation, fulness, -and prominence of the bosom. To show how this affects the condition of -the body, we must begin by giving a short description of the thorax or -chest, which is the subject of this artificial compression.</p> - -<p>Every one who has seen a skeleton, knows that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</span> the chest consists of -a cavity protected by a curious frame-work of bones. These are, 1st, -the back-bone, (consisting of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">vertebræ</i>, or short bones jointed -into one another,) which sustains the whole upper part of the trunk; -2d, the breast-bone, about seven or eight inches long, and composed -of three pieces; and 3dly, the ribs, of which there are generally -twentyfour. The twelve ribs on each side are all fixed to the back-bone -behind; seven of these, the seven uppermost, are also attached to the -breast-bone before, and are, therefore, called <em>true ribs</em>. The -eighth rib has its end turned up, and rests on the seventh; the ninth -rests in the same way on the eighth; but the tenth, eleventh, and -twelfth are not connected with one another in front at all. The fore -extremity of each rib consists not of bone, but of an elastic substance -called cartilage. The elasticity of this substance, combined with the -oblique position of the ribs, constitutes a beautiful provision, in -consequence of which the chest enlarges and contracts its volume, to -afford free play to the lungs.</p> - -<p>We now wish to call attention to the form of this cavity, which, as -we have seen, is surrounded and protected by the back-bone, ribs, and -breast-bone, and is called the <em>thorax</em>, or chest. The uppermost -pair of ribs, which lie just at the bottom of the neck, are very short; -the next pair is rather longer; the third longer still; and thus they -go on increasing in length to the seventh pair, or last <em>true</em> -ribs, after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</span> which the length diminishes, but without materially -contracting the size of the cavity, because the false ribs only go -round a part of the body. Hence the chest has a sort of conical shape, -or it may be compared to the bee-hives used in this country, the narrow -or pointed end being next the neck, and the broad end undermost. The -natural form of the thorax, in short, is just the reverse of the -fashionable shape of the waist. The latter is narrow below, and wide -above; the former is narrow above, and wide below.</p> - -<p>The lower part of the thorax is also much more compressible, and of -course more easily injured by ligatures than the upper. In the upper -part, the bones form a complete circle; and, from the small obliquity -of the ribs, this circle presents a great power of resistance to -external pressure. But the last five ribs, called the false ribs, -besides being placed more obliquely, become weaker as they decrease -in length, and having no support in front, their power of resisting -external pressure is probably six times less than that of the true -ribs. Hence ligatures applied to this part of the body may contract the -natural size of the cavity perhaps one half. Nature, in this instance, -has entrusted the belle with a discretionary power, guarding against -its abuse, however, by severe penalties. If she chooses to <em>brave -the consequences</em>, she may always, with the help of lace and cord, -produce a great change on this part of her person.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</span></p> - -<p>From the great care nature has bestowed to strengthen the outer shell -of the thorax, and to combine mobility with strength, we may judge of -the importance of the organs within, and of the value of free motion -to their healthy action. It is a further proof of this, as Soemmerring -observes, that the ribs are the first part of the bony frame-work which -nature forms; for, in the unborn child, no other bones except those of -the ear are so perfect. The <em>contents</em> of the thorax are,—first, -the heart, which is the centre of the circulating system, and which, -for the sake of its metaphorical offices, every lady must be anxious -to keep from injury;—next, the lungs, which occupy by far the largest -space, and of the delicacy of whose operations every one may judge. -There are, besides, either within the thorax, or in juxtaposition with -it, the stomach, liver, and kidneys, with the œsophagus, the trachea, -or windpipe, part of the intestines, and many nerves, all intimately -connected with the vital powers. Most of these organs are not only of -primary importance in themselves, but, through the nerves, arteries, -&c., their influence extends to the head, and the remotest parts of -the limbs, so that when they are injured, <em>health is poisoned at -its source</em>, and the mischief always travels to other parts of the -system.</p> - -<p>Imagine, now, what is the consequence of applying compression, by -corsets of some unyielding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</span> material, to a cavity enclosing so many -delicate organs, whose free action is essential to health. First, the -lowest part of the shell of the thorax yields most; the false ribs, and -the lower true ribs, are pressed inwards; the whole viscera in this -part of the body, including part of the intestines, are squeezed close -together and forced upwards; and, as the pressure is continued above, -they are forced higher still. If the lacing is carried further, the -breast-bone is raised, and sometimes bent; the collar-bone protrudes -its inner extremity; and the shoulder-blades are forced backwards. -The under part of the lungs is pressed together, and the entrance -of the blood into it hindered; the abdominal viscera, being least -protected, suffer severely; the stomach is compressed, its distention -prevented, and its situation and form changed, giving rise to imperfect -digestion; the blood is forced up to the head, where it generates -various complaints; the liver has its shape altered, and its functions -obstructed; the bones having their natural motions constrained, -distortion ensues, and the high shoulder, the twisted spine, or -breast-bone, begins at last to manifest itself through the integuments -and the clothes.</p> - -<p>Another effect of tight corsets, says the essayist, is, that those -who have been long so closely laced, become at last unable to hold -themselves erect, or move with comfort without them, but, as is very -justly said, <em>fall together</em>, in consequence of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</span> natural -form and position of the ribs being altered. The muscles of the back -are weakened and crippled, and cannot maintain themselves in their -natural position for any length of time. The spine, too, no longer -accustomed to bear the destined weight of the body, bends and sinks -down. Where tight lacing is practised, young women, from fifteen to -twenty years of age, are found so dependent upon their corsets, that -they faint whenever they lay them aside, and therefore are obliged to -have themselves laced before going to sleep. For as soon as the thorax -and abdomen are relaxed, by being deprived of their usual support, the -blood rushing downwards, in consequence of the diminished resistance -to its motion, empties the vessels of the head, and thus occasions -fainting.</p> - -<p>“From 1760 to about 1770,” says Soemmerring, “it was the fashion in -Berlin and other parts of Germany, and also in Holland a few years -ago, to apply corsets to children. This practice fell into disuse, -in consequence of its being observed, that children who did not wear -corsets grew up straight, while those who were treated with this -extraordinary care, got by it a high shoulder or a hunch. Many families -might be named, in which parental fondness selected the handsomest of -several boys to put in corsets, and the result was, that these alone -were hunched. The deformity was attributed at first to the improper -mode of applying the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</span> corsets, till it was discovered that no child -thus invested, grew up straight, not to mention the risk of consumption -and rupture which were likewise incurred by using them. I, for my part, -affirm, that I do not know any woman who, by tight lacing, (that is, -by artificial means,) has obtained ‘a fine figure,’ in whom I could -not, by accurate examination, point out either a high shoulder, oblique -compressed ribs, a lateral incurvation of the spine in the form of an -italic <i>S</i>, or some other distortion. I have had opportunities of -verifying this opinion among ladies of high condition, who, as models -of fine form, were brought forward for the purpose of putting me to -silence.”</p> - -<p>Young ladies in course of time hope to become wives, and wives to -become mothers. Even in this last stage, few females have the courage -to resist a practice which is in general use, though to them it is -trebly injurious. But it is sufficient to glance at this branch of -the subject, on which, for obvious reasons, we cannot follow our -medical instructer. It is lamentable, however, that mothers who have -themselves experienced the bitter fruits of tight lacing, still permit -their daughters to indulge in it. There is, in truth, no tyranny like -the tyranny of fashion. “I have found mothers of discernment and -experience,” says Soemmerring, “who predicted that in their 25th year, -a hunch would inevitably be the lot of their daughters, whom they -nevertheless<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</span> allowed to wear corsets, because they were afraid to make -their children singular.”</p> - -<p>But it is time to speak of the diseases produced by the passion for -<em>slender waists</em>. “One is astonished,” says Soemmerring, “at the -number of diseases which corsets occasion. Those I have subjoined rest -on the authority of the most eminent physicians. Tight lacing produces—</p> - -<p>“Headach, giddiness, tendency to fainting, pain in the eyes, pain -and ringing in the ears, bleeding at the nose, shortness of breath, -spitting of blood, consumption, derangement of the circulation, -palpitation of the heart, water in the chest, loss of appetite, -squeamishness, eructations, vomiting of blood, depraved digestion, -flatulence, diarrhœa, colic pains, induration of the liver, dropsy, and -rupture. It is also followed by melancholy, hysteria, and many diseases -peculiar to the female constitution, which it is not necessary to -enumerate in detail.”</p> - -<p>But the injury does not fall merely on the inward structure of the -body, but also on its outward beauty, and on the temper and feelings -with which that beauty is associated. Beauty is in reality but another -name for that expression of countenance which is the index of sound -health, intelligence, good feelings, and peace of mind. All are aware, -that uneasy feelings, existing habitually in the breast, speedily -exhibit their signature on the countenance; and that bitter thoughts, -or a bad temper, spoil the human<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</span> face divine of its grace. But it -is not so generally known that irksome or painful sensations, though -merely of a physical nature, by a law equally certain, rob the temper -of its sweetness, and, as a consequence, the countenance of the more -ethereal and better part of its beauty. Pope attributes the rudeness -of a person usually bland and polished, to the circumstance, that “he -had not dined;” in other words, his stomach was in bad order. But there -are many other physical pains besides hunger that sour the temper; and, -for our part, if we found ourselves sitting at dinner with a man whose -body was girt on all sides by board and bone, like the north pole by -thick-ribbed ice, we should no more expect to find grace, politeness, -amenity, vivacity, and good-humor, in such a companion, than in -Prometheus with a vulture battening on his vitals, or in Cerberus, -whose task is to growl all day long in his chains.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="ON_THE_LADIES_PASSION_FOR_LEVELLING_ALL_DISTINCTION_OF_DRESS">ON THE LADIES’ PASSION FOR LEVELLING ALL DISTINCTION OF DRESS.</h3> -</div> - - -<p>Foreigners observe that there are no ladies in the world more -beautiful, or more ill-dressed, than those of England. Our countrywomen -have been compared to those pictures, where the face is the work of -a Raphael, but the draperies thrown out by some empty pretender, -destitute of taste, and entirely unacquainted with design.</p> - -<p>If I were a poet, I might observe on this occasion, that so much -beauty, set off with all the advantages of dress, would be too powerful -an antagonist for the opposite sex; and therefore it was wisely ordered -that our ladies should want taste, lest their admirers should entirely -want reason.</p> - -<p>But, to confess the truth, I do not find they have greater aversion to -fine clothes than the women of any other country whatsoever. I cannot -fancy that a shopkeeper’s wife in Cheapside has a greater tenderness -for the fortune of her husband, than a citizen’s wife in Paris; or -that miss in a boarding-school is more an economist in dress than -mademoiselle in a nunnery.</p> - -<p>Although Paris may be accounted the soil in which almost every fashion -takes its rise, its influence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</span> is never so general there as with us. -They study there the happy method of uniting grace and fashion, and -never excuse a woman for being awkwardly dressed, by saying her clothes -are in the mode. A Frenchwoman is a perfect architect in dress; she -never, with Gothic ignorance, mixes the orders; she never tricks out -a squabby Doric shape with Corinthian finery; or, to speak without -metaphor, she conforms to general fashion only when it happens not to -be repugnant to private beauty.</p> - -<p>The English ladies, on the contrary, seem to have no other standard -of grace but the run of the town. If fashion gives the word, every -distinction of beauty, complexion, of stature, ceases. Sweeping trains, -Prussian bonnets, and trollopees, as like each other as if cut from -the same piece, level all to one standard. The Mall, the gardens, -and playhouses, are filled with ladies in uniform; and their whole -appearance shows as little variety of taste as if their clothes were -bespoke by the colonel of a marching regiment, or fancied by the artist -who dresses the three battalions of guards.</p> - -<p>But not only the ladies of every shape and complexion, but of every -age too, are possessed of this unaccountable passion for levelling -all distinction in dress. The lady of no quality travels first behind -the lady of some quality; and a woman of sixty is as gaudy as her -grand-daughter. A friend of mine, a good-natured old man, amused me -the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</span> other day with an account of his journey to the Mall. It seems, -in his walk thither, he, for some time, followed a lady, who, as he -thought, by her dress, was a girl of fifteen. It was airy, elegant, and -youthful. My old friend had called up all his poetry on this occasion, -and fancied twenty Cupids prepared for execution in every folding of -her white negligee. He had prepared his imagination for an angel’s -face;—but what was his mortification to find that the imaginary -goddess was no other than his cousin Hannah, some years older than -himself!</p> - -<p>But to give it in his own words: “After the transports of our first -salute,” said he, “were over, I could not avoid running my eye over -her whole appearance. Her gown was of cambric, cut short before, in -order to discover a high-heeled shoe, which was buckled almost at the -toe. Her cap consisted of a few bits of cambric, and flowers of painted -paper stuck on one side of her head. Her bosom, that had felt no hand -but the hand of time these twenty years, rose, suing to be pressed. I -could, indeed, have wished her more than a handkerchief of Paris net, -to shade her beauties; for, as Tasso says of the rose-bud, ‘<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Quanto -si nostra men, tanto e pin bella</i>.’ A female breast is generally -thought most beautiful as it is more sparingly discovered.</p> - -<p>“As my cousin had not put on all this finery for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</span> nothing, she was -at that time sallying out to the Park, where I had overtaken her. -Perceiving, however, that I had on my best wig, she offered, if I would -squire her there, to send home the footman. Though I trembled for our -reception in public, yet I could not, with any civility, refuse; so, -to be as gallant as possible, I took her hand in my arm, and thus we -marched on together.</p> - -<p>“When we made our entry at the Park, two antiquated figures, so polite -and so tender, soon attracted the eyes of the company. As we made our -way among the crowds, who were out to show their finery as well as we, -wherever we came, I perceived we brought good humor with us. The polite -could not forbear smiling, and the vulgar burst out into a horse-laugh -at our grotesque figures. Cousin Hannah, who was perfectly conscious of -the rectitude of her own appearance, attributed all this mirth to the -oddity of mine; while I as cordially placed the whole to her account. -Thus, from being two of the best-natured creatures alive, before we -got half way up the Mall, we both began to grow peevish, and like two -mice on a string, endeavored to revenge the impertinence of others -upon ourselves. ‘I am amazed, cousin Jeffery,’ says Miss, ‘that I can -never get you to dress like a Christian. I knew we should have the -eyes of the Park upon us, with your great wig, so frizzled, and yet so -beggarly, and your monstrous muff. I hate those odious<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</span> muffs.’ I could -have patiently borne a criticism on all the rest of my equipage; but -as I had always a peculiar veneration for my muff, I could not forbear -being piqued a little; and throwing my eyes with a spiteful air on her -bosom, ‘I could heartily wish, madam,’ replied I, ‘that, for your sake, -my muff was cut into a tippet.’</p> - -<p>“As my cousin, by this time, was grown heartily ashamed of her -gentleman usher, and as I was never very fond of any kind of exhibition -myself, it was mutually agreed to retire for a while to one of the -seats, and, from that retreat, remark on others as freely as they had -remarked on us.</p> - -<p>“When seated, we continued silent for some time, employed in very -different speculations. I regarded the whole company, now passing -in review before me, as drawn out merely for my amusement. For my -entertainment, the beauty had, all that morning, been improving her -charms: the beau had put on lace, and the young doctor a big wig, -merely to please me. But quite different were the sentiments of -cousin Hannah: she regarded every well-dressed woman as a victorious -rival; hated every face that seemed dressed in good humor, or wore -the appearance of greater happiness than her own. I perceived her -uneasiness, and attempted to lessen it, by observing that there was no -company in the Park to-day. To this she readily assented; ‘and yet,’ -says she, ‘it is full enough<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</span> of scrubs of one kind or another.’ My -smiling at this observation gave her spirits to pursue the bent of -her inclination, and now she began to exhibit her skill in secret -history, as she found me disposed to listen. ‘Observe,’ says she to me, -‘that old woman in tawdry silk, and dressed out beyond the fashion. -That is Miss Biddy Evergreen. Miss Biddy, it seems, has money; and as -she considers that money was never so scarce as it is now, she seems -resolved to keep what she has to herself. She is ugly enough, you see; -yet, I assure you, she has refused several offers, to my knowledge, -within this twelvemonth. Let me see;—three gentlemen from Ireland, who -study the law, two waiting captains, her doctor, and a Scotch preacher, -who had liked to have carried her off. All her time is passed between -sickness and finery. Thus she spends the whole week in a close chamber, -with no other company but her monkey, her apothecary, and cat; and -comes dressed out to Park every Sunday, to show her airs, to get new -lovers, to catch a new cold, and to make new work for the doctor.</p> - -<p>“‘There goes Mrs. Roundabout, I mean the fat lady in the lustring -trollopee. Between you and I, she is but a cutler’s wife. See how -she’s dressed, as fine as hands and pins can make her, while her two -marriageable daughters, like bunters in stuff gowns, are now taking -six-penny-worth of tea at the White-conduit house. Odious puss, how -she<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</span> waddles along, with her train two yards behind her! She puts me -in mind of my Lord Bantam’s Indian sheep, which are obliged to have -their monstrous tails trundled along in a go-cart. For all her airs, it -goes to her husband’s heart to see four yards of good lustring wearing -against the ground, like one of his knives on a grindstone. To speak -my mind, cousin Jeffery, I never liked those tails: for suppose a -young fellow should be rude, and the lady should offer to step back in -the fright, instead of retiring, she treads upon her train, and falls -fairly on her back; and then you know, cousin,—her clothes may be -spoiled.</p> - -<p>“‘Ah! Miss Mazzard! I knew we should not miss her in the Park; she in -the monstrous Prussian bonnet. Miss, though so very fine, was bred -a milliner; and might have had some custom, if she had minded her -business; but the girl was fond of finery, and, instead of dressing her -customers, laid out all her goods in adorning herself. Every new gown -she put on impaired her credit; she still, however, went on, improving -her appearance, and lessening her little fortune, and is now, you see, -become a belle and a bankrupt.’</p> - -<p>“My cousin was proceeding in her remarks, which were interrupted by -the approach of the very lady she had been so freely describing. Miss -had perceived her at a distance, and approached to salute her. I found -by the warmth of the two ladies’ protestations,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</span> that they had been -long intimate, esteemed friends and acquaintance. Both were so pleased -at this happy rencounter, that they were resolved not to part for -the day. So we all crossed the Park together, and I saw them into a -hackney-coach at St. James’s.”</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Oliver Goldsmith.</span></span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</span></p> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="RECIPES">RECIPES.</h3> -</div> - -<h4><i>Paste of Palermo.</i></h4> - -<p>This paste for the hands, to use instead of soap, preserves them from -chapping, smooths their surface, and renders them soft.</p> - -<p>Taken, pound of soft soap, half a pint of salad oil, the same quantity -of spirits of wine, the juice of three lemons, a little silver sand, -and a sufficient quantity of what perfume pleases the sense. The oil -and soap must be first boiled together in an earthen pipkin. The other -ingredients to be added after boiling; and, when cool, amalgamate into -a paste with the hands.</p> - - -<h4><i>Fard.</i></h4> - -<p>This useful paste is good for taking off sunburnings, effects of -weather on the face, and accidental cutaneous eruptions. It must be -applied at going to bed. First wash the face with its usual ablution, -and when dry, rub this fard all over it, and go to rest with it on the -skin. This is excellent for almost<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</span> constant use. Take two ounces of -oil of sweet almonds, ditto of spermaceti; melt them in a pipkin over a -slow fire. When they are dissolved and mixed, take it off the fire, and -stir into it one tablespoonful of fine honey. Continue stirring it till -it is cold, and then it is fit for use.</p> - - -<h4><i>Lip Salve.</i></h4> - -<p>A quarter of a pound of hard marrow from the marrow-bone. Melt it over -a slow fire, as it dissolves gradually, pour the liquid marrow into an -earthen pipkin; then add to it an ounce of spermaceti, twenty raisins -of the sun, stoned, and a small portion of alcanna root, sufficient to -color it a bright vermilion. Simmer these ingredients over a slow fire -for ten minutes, then strain the whole through muslin; and, while hot, -stir into it one teaspoonful of the balsam of Peru. Pour it into the -boxes in which it is to remain; it will there stiffen, and become fit -for use.</p> - - -<h4><i>Lavender Water.</i></h4> - -<p>Take of rectified spirits of wine half a pint, essential oil of -lavender two drachms, otto of roses five drops. Mix all together in a -bottle, and cork it for use.</p> - - -<h4><i>Unction de Maintenon.</i></h4> - -<p>The use of this is to remove freckles. The mode<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</span> of application is -this:—Wash the face at night with elder-flower water, then anoint -it with the unction. In the morning cleanse your skin from its oily -adhesion, by washing it copiously in rose-water.</p> - -<p>Take of Venice soap an ounce, dissolve it in half an ounce of -lemon-juice, to which add of oil of bitter-almonds and deliquidated oil -of tartar, each a quarter of an ounce. Let the mixture be placed in the -sun till it acquires the consistence of ointment. When in this state, -add three drops of the oil of rhodium, and keep it for use.</p> - - -<h4><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Creme de l’Enclos.</i></h4> - -<p>This is an excellent wash, to be used night and morning, for the -removal of tan.</p> - -<p>Take half a pint of milk, with the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of -white brandy, boil the whole, and skim it clear from all scum. When -cool, it is ready for use.</p> - - -<h4><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Pommade de Seville.</i></h4> - -<p>This simple application is much in request with the Spanish ladies, -for taking off the effects of the sun, and to render the complexion -brilliant.</p> - -<p>Take equal parts of lemon-juice and white of eggs. Beat the whole -together in a varnished earthen pipkin, and set on a slow fire. Stir -the fluid with a wooden spoon till it has acquired the consistence of -soft pomatum. Perfume it with some sweet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</span> essence, and before you apply -it, carefully wash the face with rice water.</p> - - -<h4><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Beaume à l’Antique.</i></h4> - -<p>This is a very fine cure for chapped lips. Take four ounces of the oil -of roses, half an ounce of white wax, and half an ounce of spermaceti; -melt them in a glass vessel, and stir them with a wooden spoon; pour it -out into glass cups for use.</p> - - -<h4><i>Wash for the Hair.</i></h4> - -<p>This is a cleanser and brightener of the head and hair, and should be -applied in the morning.</p> - -<p>Beat up the whites of six eggs into a froth, and with that anoint the -head close to the roots of the hair. Leave it to dry on; then wash the -head and hair thoroughly with a mixture of rum and rose-water in equal -quantities.</p> - - -<h4><i>Aura and Cephalus.</i></h4> - -<p>This curious recipe is of Grecian origin, as its name plainly -indicates, and it is said to have been very efficacious in preventing, -or even removing, premature wrinkles from the face of the Athenian fair.</p> - -<p>Put some powder of the best myrrh upon an iron plate, sufficiently -heated to melt the gum gently, and when it liquifies, hold your -face over it, at a proper distance to receive the fumes without -inconvenience;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</span> and that you may reap the whole benefit of the -fumigation, cover your head with a napkin. It must be observed, -however, that if the applicant feels any headache, she must desist, as -the remedy will not suit her constitution, and ill consequences might -possibly ensue.</p> - - -<h4><i>Madame Recamier’s Pommade.</i></h4> - -<p>This was communicated by this lady as being used in France and Italy, -by those who professionally, or by choice, are engaged in exercises -which require long and great exertions of the limbs, as dancing, -playing on instruments, &c.</p> - -<p>Take any suitable quantity of <i>Axungia Cervi</i>, i. e. the fat of a -red stag or hart; add to it the same quantity of olive oil, (Florence -oil is preferable to any of the kind,) and half the quantity of virgin -wax; melt the whole in an earthen vessel, well glazed, over a slow -fire, and, when properly mixed, leave it to cool. This ointment has -been applied also with considerable efficacy in cases of rheumatism.</p> - - -<h4><i>A Wash for the Face.</i></h4> - -<p>This recipe is well known in France, and much extolled by the ladies of -that country as efficacious and harmless.</p> - -<p>Take equal parts of the seeds of the melon, pompion, gourd, and -cucumber, pounded and reduced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</span> to powder or meal; add to it fresh -cream, sufficient to dilute the flour; beat all up together, adding -a sufficient quantity of milk, as it may be required, to make an -ointment, and then apply it to the face; leave it there for half an -hour, and then wash it off with warm soft water.</p> - - -<h4><i>A Paste for the Skin.</i></h4> - -<p>This may be recommended in cases when the skin seems to get too loosely -attached to the muscles.</p> - -<p>Boil the whites of four eggs in rose-water, add to it a sufficient -quantity of alum; beat the whole together till it takes the consistence -of a paste. This will give, when applied, great firmness to the skin.</p> - - -<h4><i>A Wash to give Lustre to the Face.</i></h4> - -<p>Infuse wheat-bran well sifted, for three or four hours in white wine -vinegar; add to it five yolks of eggs and a grain or two of ambergris, -and distil the whole. When the bottle is carefully corked, keep it for -twelve or fifteen days before you make use of it.</p> - - -<h4><i>Pimpernel Water.</i></h4> - -<p>Pimpernel is a most wholesome plant, and often used on the continent -for the purpose of whitening the complexion; it is there in so high -reputation,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</span> that it is said generally, that it ought to be continually -on the toilet of every lady who cares for the brightness of her skin.</p> - - -<h4><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Eau de Veau.</i></h4> - -<p>Boil a calf’s foot in four quarts of river water till it is reduced to -half the quantity. Add half a pound of rice, and boil it with crumb of -white bread steeped in milk, a pound of fresh butter, and the whites of -five fresh eggs; mix with them a small quantity of camphor and alum, -and distil the whole. This recipe may be strongly recommended; it is -most beneficial to the skin, which it lubricates and softens to a very -comfortable degree. The best manner of distilling these ingredients is -in the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">balneum mariæ</i>; that is, in a bottle placed in boiling -water.</p> - - -<h4><i>Rose Water.</i></h4> - -<p>Put some roses into water, add to them a few drops of acid; the -vitriolic acid seems to be preferable to any—soon the water will -assume both the color and perfume of the roses.</p> - - -<h4><i>Another.</i></h4> - -<p>Take two pounds of rose-leaves, place them on a napkin tied round the -edges of a basin filled with hot water, and put a dish of cold water -upon the leaves; keep the bottom water hot, and change the water at top -as soon as it begins to grow warm; by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</span> this kind of distillation you -will extract a great quantity of the essential oil of the roses by a -process which cannot be expensive, and will prove very beneficial.</p> - - -<h4><i>Virgin Milk.</i></h4> - -<p>A publication of this kind would certainly be looked upon as an -imperfect performance, if we omitted to say a few words upon this -famous cosmetic. It consists of a tincture of benjoin, precipitated by -water. The tincture of benjoin is obtained by taking a certain quantity -of that gum, pouring spirits of wine upon it, and boiling it till it -becomes a rich tincture. If you pour a few drops of this tincture into -a glass of water, it will produce a mixture which will assume all the -appearance of milk, and retain a very agreeable perfume. If the face is -washed with this mixture, it will, by calling the purple stream of the -blood to the external fibres of the epidermis, produce on the cheeks a -beautiful rosy color; and, if left on the face to dry, it will render -it clear and brilliant. It also removes spots, freckles, pimples, -erysipelatous eruptions, &c. &c. if they have not been of long standing -on the skin.</p> - - -<h4><i>Lavender Water.</i></h4> - -<p>Take four handfuls of dried lavender flowers, and sprinkle on them -one quart of brandy, the same quantity of white wine and rose-water;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</span> -leave them to remain six days in a large bottle well-corked up; let the -liquor be distilled and poured off.</p> - - -<h4><i>Sweet-scented Water.</i></h4> - -<p>This agreeably-scented water is not only a pleasant cosmetic, but also -of great use in nervous disorders.</p> - -<p>Put one quart of rose-water, and the same quantity of orange-water, -into a large and wide-mouthed glass; strew upon it two handfuls of -jessamine flowers, put the glass in the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">balneum mariæ</i>, or on a -slow fire, and when it is distilled, add to it a scruple of musk and -the same quantity of ambergris.</p> - - -<h4><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Eau d’Ange.</i></h4> - -<p>Pound in a mortar fifteen cloves and one pound of cinnamon, and put the -whole into a quart of water, with four grains of anniseed; let it stand -over a charcoal fire twentyfour hours, then strain off the liquor, and -put it up for use. This perfume is most excellent, and will do well for -the hands, face, and hair, to which it communicates a very agreeable -scent.</p> - - -<h4><i>Remedy for the Toothache.</i></h4> - -<p>In two drachms of rectified spirits of wine dissolve one drachm of -camphire, five grains of prepared opium, and ten drops of oil of box; -mix them well,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</span> and keep it well corked for use. If the pain arise from -a hollow tooth, four or five drops on cotton to be put into the tooth; -or six or seven drops to be put on cotton into the ear on the side -where the pain is felt. Should the patient not feel easier in a quarter -of an hour, the same may be repeated. It has never failed on the second -application.</p> - - -<h4><i>An excellent Eye-Water.</i></h4> - -<p>Take six ounces of rectified spirits of wine, dissolve in it one drachm -of camphire, and half a pint of elder-flower water. Wash the eyes night -and morning with this liquid; it clears the vision, and strengthens the -sight.</p> - - -<h4><i>Dentifrice.</i></h4> - -<p>The following is one of the best recipes for tooth-powder:—</p> - -<p>Take of prepared chalk six ounces, cassia powder, half an ounce, -orris-root, an ounce. These are to be well mixed, and may be colored -with red lake, or any other innocent substance, according to the fancy -of the user. This dentifrice is to be used with a firm brush every -morning; the teeth should also be brushed before going to bed, but it -is seldom necessary to use the powder more than once a day.</p> - - -<p class="center p4">THE END.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - - -<p>Minor errors in punctuation and spelling have been corrected.</p> -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE GRACES ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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