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diff --git a/old/69360-0.txt b/old/69360-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 114e744..0000000 --- a/old/69360-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1582 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The steeple-jack's instructor, by -Clarence James Murray - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The steeple-jack's instructor - -Author: Clarence James Murray - -Release Date: November 15, 2022 [eBook #69360] - -Language: English - -Produced by: deaurider and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STEEPLE-JACK'S -INSTRUCTOR *** - - - - - - -[Illustration: - - The - Steeple-Jack’s - Instructor - - The S. J. Lee Publishing Co. - Chicago, U. S. A.] - - - - - THE - STEEPLE-JACK’S - INSTRUCTOR - - [Illustration] - - Showing the Modern Methods Used - by Successful Steeple-Jacks - - Price $2.00 - - By CLARENCE JAMES MURRAY - - Published by - THE S. J. LEE PUBLISHING CO. - 160 NORTH WELLS STREET - CHICAGO, U. S. A. - - Copyrighted 1921 - by - The S. J. Lee Publishing Co. - Chicago, U. S. A. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - Page - - Introduction 9 - - How to Become a Steeple-Jack 9 - - The Smokestack 16 - - To Rig a Stack Without a Gimblet Wire 31 - - How to Change the Riggings 39 - - Steel Stacks with Brick Lining 40 - - Smokestacks with Ladders 42 - - Steel Stacks Decay at Band 43 - - Reguying 44 - - Tripping the Riggings 50 - - Self-supporters 55 - - Knots 58 - - Square Knot 60 - - Bow-line Knot 62 - - Half-hitches 64 - - The Black Wall 66 - - Tanks, Towers and Standpipes 67 - - Standpipes 69 - - Water Towers 71 - - Church Spires 74 - - The Flagstaff 78 - - Tops of Poles 85 - - Names of Knots, Bends, Bights and Hitches 93 - - - - -How to Become a Steeple-Jack - - -In this book I am placing before you the secrets of a trade I have -followed for fourteen years. I have made as high as $170 a day. It is a -poor Steeple-Jack who cannot make at least $25 a day. If you have the -ability, the appearance, and can approach a business man, you need not -worry about getting his work. - -He is aware of the chances you are taking. He has work that must be done, -and has an admiration for the man with nerve enough to accomplish what he -would not undertake himself. - -Steeple-Jacks are always in demand. When I speak of Steeple-Jacks, I -refer to men who comprehend that a certain thing up in the air needs -attention, whether it is the reaving of halyards on a flagpole, the -adjustment of a cross on a steeple, the replacing of a guy wire on a -stack, the repairing of the hands of a clock on a tower, or the mere -painting of any of these lofty objects which ordinary workmen are not -courageous enough to attempt. - -I know a great deal of this fascinating game, but I do not want to convey -to you the thought that I know it ALL, for that is not the truth. Bear in -mind the old adage: “We are never too old to learn.” - -I call this work a game, because it appeals to me as a great game, -although it is difficult work. People will gather in crowds on the street -to watch a Steeple-Jack at his perilous duty. I use the word “perilous” -because that is what it would look like to the man on the sidewalk, but -to one in the air it is just a trick to the trade, and he would not -exchange places with the man who is so eagerly watching every move he -makes for fear that he may make a wrong move. - -While he is thus busily engaged watching you, the following questions run -thru his mind: “How in the world did he ever get up there?” “How can he -stay up there so long?” His thoughts finally run something like this: -“My, but he certainly is brave.” - -From my experience with Steeple-Jacks I am convinced that they never like -to be called “brave,” because stunts that are pulled are all in the game, -and it is no more dangerous for a Steeple-Jack to climb to the top of a -flagpole or smokestack than for the individual to ride in an elevator, -a motor car or train, for when we consider the number of people who -are trusting to the safety of the above mentioned conveyances, and the -proportion of accidents in comparison to the number of Steeple-Jacks and -the accidents in connection with this trade, the Steeple-Jacks are not at -a disadvantage in respect to casualties. - -It is to the credit of the Steeple-Jack, however, that he is less -careless regarding the dangers of his profession than the thoughtless -traveling public. - -The Steeple-Jack considers it no more irksome to go out on a job than the -book-keeper to go to his desk or a bank teller to enter his cage. The -only difference between the Steeple-Jack and the book-keeper or bank -teller is in regard to working hours. The Steeple-Jack’s hours range from -two to four a day, while those of the tradesman are from six to ten hours -a day. The Steeple-Jack, whose day comprises about four hours (often less -and seldom more) makes =more= money in his =day= than the average man -makes in a =week=. - -As before stated, I have had considerable experience in the line about -which I write, and I therefore feel safe in saying that no man is worthy -of the title of Steeple-Jack unless he can make at least $20 a day in -days when he chooses to work less than the customary two to four hours. - -From my past experiences I have come to the conclusion that “time is -money,” and therefore my advice to any man who entertains the idea of -going into the great game of a Steeple-Jack is to always bear that slogan -in mind and never perform for the audience which you will undoubtedly -have watching you from the street. Remember it is =your= time that is -being taken up by the performance of whatever daring stunts you may be -able to “show off,” and no matter how large an audience you may have, -there are no benefits derived therefrom. - -The work of a Steeple-Jack has a great many assets besides that of -being able to earn a great amount of money. With the exception of the -money question, here are two that will appeal to every man: First, it -is healthful work, because you are always in the open air. Second, you -have no boss. You are your own boss and may come and go when you please. -However, I would not advise any man who is following this work to assume -too great an air of independence. We all concede that it helps to be a -=little= independent at times, but always bear in mind that it is the -privilege of the “other fellow” to assume an air of independence also, -and, after all, YOU are dependent upon his work. By that I do not mean -just one individual, but I am taking your trade as a whole. In business -we must give and take. Remember that. - -The Steeple-Jack’s work is ordinarily performed on smokestacks, flagpoles -and church spires. You will agree with me that there are very few who -follow this line of work. Just to prove this to you, allow me to ask you -a question: “How many Steeple-Jacks do you know?” Perhaps the answer will -be “One,” “Two,” or “Three,” and, again, it may be “Not any.” I have -worked in this business in every large city in the United States and I -can candidly say that I have had very little competition and, in a great -many cities, not any. - -Another important factor of this work is always to endeavor to please the -man whose work you are doing and never to do cheap or skimpy work, for I -have been convinced that cheap and skimpy workmanship gains nothing for -you. However, on the other hand, if you put forth your best and succeed -in pleasing the man who is to be considered, you can always count on a -renewed order the following year. REMEMBER: Satisfy the other fellow -first and you cannot help but satisfy yourself. - - - - -THE SMOKESTACK - - -To a Steeple-Jack any stack, regardless of whether it is composed of -brick, steel or concrete, is a smokestack. Undoubtedly you have heard -these stacks referred to as chimneys; nevertheless, from now on we will -call them smokestacks. - -Steel smokestacks are supported by guy wires. As a general rule two sets -of guy wires support a steel stack, but I have often found a smokestack -supported by three sets of guy wires. These guy wires consist of four -wires to a set. - -There is supposed to be a wire which runs through a sheave from the top -of the stock to enable the stack man to rig up. This wire is flexible -and is called a gimblet wire. Above all things, do not use this gimblet -wire for ascending purposes; by that I mean in such a manner as to cause -the weight of your body to rest upon this wire, as there is often great -danger in an act of this kind. - -Read carefully the following few lines and you will be convinced of the -risk you are taking by endeavoring to ascend on the gimblet wire. - -If the gimblet wire in question has been in that position for a year, in -all probability it is rotten at the point where it runs through the hook -at the top of the stack, and it would not take much weight to loosen it. -So bear in mind, no matter how light or heavy in weight you may be, do -not climb up on the gimblet wire. - -The following is a more simple and far more safe way of getting to the -top: - -First of all, get a board from six to nine feet in length and two to -three inches in depth. Take one end of the gimblet wire and tie it to -the end of your board, and fasten the other end of the wire to the board -about three feet from the end. Take your stack hook—a hook of good ⅝-inch -steel. This hook should be about fourteen inches long, the hook being six -inches long; a five-inch opening with an eye opening of about two inches, -so that you can hook your block and tackle to it. Attach your stack hook -to the board on the side opposite to where your gimblet wire is fastened. -Be sure the hook is turned towards the stack. - -[Illustration: Ready to Pull the Rigging Up] - -[Illustration: The Boatswain Chair] - -When this is done, pull on the wire; that will draw up your riggings, -reaving your block and falls out to the size of the stack, so as to -enable you to keep them from twisting with the gimblet wire. Now, then, -should this board be weak and break while you have your riggings near -the top, to prevent them from falling down and one end of the gimblet -wire from running to the top, tie a heavy piece of cord to the end of the -gimblet wire, running it to the other end of the wire, then fasten to -your blocks. - -This will prevent a hard day’s work untangling your riggings from the guy -wires, should the board break. - -[Illustration: Tripping Riggings on Top of Stack] - -After drawing your rigging to the top, the board drawn tight up to the -block on top of the stack, pull on the gimblet wire that is attached -to the end of the board. This motion brings the end of your board -bearing the hook and rigging up. In some cases, the stack being small in -diameter and the board being too long, the hook will stick far out from -the stack, and with all hard efforts will not lodge it over the top. When -you have this proposition to contend with, leave the stack about three or -four inches on the gimblet wire that holds the board tight to the block -on the stack. In some cases you have to drop the board as far as from two -to three feet below the block, in order to get your hook in a position -where it will settle over the top of the stack with the hooked part -inside of the stack. - -This is very important. Be sure that the hook is not only setting on -top. This can be determined by twisting all four lines, making them one -bundle; then by giving the lines a few switchings back and forth in all -directions. When this is done and you have fully convinced yourself that -the hook is properly over the top, then your next move is to start for -the top. - -If it is your first time in a boatswain chair, I would suggest that you -sound yourself first as to dizziness. This can very easily be done by -the following method: - -Stand along the side of the stack, throwing your head to one side and -looking up, allowing your eyes to follow the stack and the clouds, -shaking the head at different times. This brings on dizziness. Then stand -erect, so as to clear your head. After getting into the boatswain chair, -you place the fall line of your riggings—that is, the line with which you -draw yourself up—between your legs. This enables you and your helper to -pull more steadily together, and you get to the top much quicker. - -I have noticed that the majority of stack men regard this as the most -difficult part of the job—drawing to the top. Once up, the job is half -done. - -After you reach the top of the stack, the first thing to be done is to -cut away the string that holds the stack hook to the board. You then -lower the board to the ground. Still tied by the wire to the board -for further use in case you want to trip off with it when the job is -finished. - -There is still an easier way, which I will explain later. Now we will say -the work you are to do is paint. For your information I will say that oil -paint is preferred by Steeple-Jacks for several reasons, some of which -are: It is easy to apply in all kinds of weather; you are bound to get -plenty of it in the face, and it is easier to wash off than tar. From my -personal experience I have found that graphite and oil preserve a steel -smokestack better than any other. You will come in contact with people -who will differ with you as to this point; however, when you meet with -a difficulty of this nature, give the man what he asks for. If he wants -water, give him water; if he desires to have tar, give it to him, but if -he wants something good, then suggest an oil paint. Graphite and oil—the -preservable. - -A great number of men with whom you deal will say: “I want tar on my -stack.” I have learned from my own personal experience that the answer -which will in nine cases out of ten take with the man with whom you are -dealing is something on this order: “If you want tar, all right, but -it will cost you =more= money.” He will immediately confront you with -a question similar to this: “Why is that?” Your reply should be: “If I -put tar on your smokestack and come back next year for your work, you -will refuse me, because tar blisters in places and rust forms under the -blisters, which prevent the rust from being seen, and in a few years -there are holes in the stack, whereas an oil paint wears off, showing the -rust spots.” - -[Illustration: Changing Positions on Top of Stack] - -However, I am running away from my story. We will go back to the top -of the stack. You look down, getting straight above a guy wire, reach -over as far as you can and paint, leaving the space directly in front -clear; drop down about ten feet, painting as you go; draw up to the top -again, switching the stack hook over and directly above the next nearest -guy wire. In order to accomplish this, take an extra hook similar to -your stack hook and about seven feet of ½-inch line. Place the extra -hook over the top; tie the other end of the sling to the rope of your -boatswain chair, making it good and secure. Then lower your weight from -your rigging until it rests on the extra hook and sling. You then draw -your regular stack hook up to the extra hook. When this is done you -pull your weight again to your riggings and push the extra hook around. -Do this until you get to the position you want, just above the next -nearest guy wire, repeating the same as you did above the other guy wire, -painting about ten feet down. When this is done, draw back to the top, -using the same method to get over to the middle of the two spaces you -have painted. - -Then start to paint between the two spaces already completed. By so doing -you are able to make a larger sweep on your way down. In order to make -time on a stack it pays to have a helper on the ground, so as to take the -end of the fall line or handy line and pull you around and by doing this -also help to keep you in to the stack, which enables one to work to a -better advantage and much quicker. Remember, “Time is money,” and there -is lots of it to be made. - -The opportunity is there. Tradesmen of all walks of life say: “Gee, -business is dull in my trade. If I only had the opportunity that some -people have.” A Steeple-Jack should never say that, because there is -always work to be done on a smokestack the year ’round. Don’t be afraid -to ask for it, and also a price. Yours is not a common trade. It takes -brains, brawn and nerve, so don’t permit your nerve to fail you when you -are asking a price. - -Another thing to be careful of is not to allow your rope to get caught -and tangled in the end of a guy wire attached to the stack at the band. -Should this happen, it may put you in a very hazardous position. Give -this a glance now and then and, should such a thing happen, do not get -excited and start tugging. The more you tug, the tighter it gets. Have -someone to switch it out from the ground. It is possible to do this from -the air. - -[Illustration: Showing Falls Caught in Guy Wire] - -High wind is the Steeple-Jack’s greatest enemy. It is only a fool who -would attempt to rig a smokestack when the wind is blowing a gale; in -fact, it is almost impossible to work in a high wind. More work can be -accomplished in one-fifth of the time on a calm day. “Time is money,” -but always take time when your life is at stake. Always keep in mind the -motto: “Safety First.” - -When tying up your riggings for the night, and it might be calm at the -close of the day. Weather changes in a very few minutes at times. To -safeguard against the rope from wearing against the stack and guy wires, -walk out about fifteen feet from the stack, taking a piece of extra -sling. Tie the sling to some object that is solid, throw two half-hitches -with your fall line around the riggings just above the single block. When -this is done, pass the sling which you have tied to some object through -the hook of the block, making it fastened to the block. Then pull the -slack out of your riggings with the fall line, at the same time keeping -the two half-hitches just above the block. Do not take up all the slack; -leave some play in your lines, using your own judgment as to whether the -lines will come in contact with the guy wires. The weather will shrink -the line more or less. - - - - -TO RIG A STACK WITHOUT A GIMBLET WIRE - - -When this proposition confronts you it may look to you like a job not -worth fooling with. It can be done and, on some stacks, almost as quickly -as with a gimblet wire. - -There are a number of ways to rig without the aid of a gimblet, of which -I will show you two of the quickest and most simple. - -Look over your guy wires and pick out the most solid of the lot running -to the top band. Make sure of its anchorage. There are supposed to be two -clips at each end of a guy wire where it is connected to the turn-buckle, -and at the band place the double block without the stack hook on the guy -wire. - -Tie a long and heavy line to the block. Take this line, passing it around -all the guy wires with the exception of the one the block and falls are -attached to. Then reave out your line to what you would figure the length -of the stack to be. You then take hold of the line that is around the -guys, pulling on it and at the same time switching on your rigging. -Unless the guy wire is slanting at about 45 degrees down, your rigging -will slide up very easily. - -With this system it is possible to get your rigging to within a very few -feet of the top band, then tie off your tug line, be sure to some object -that is good and solid. Remember your weight will be on that, and also -your life. - -SAFETY FIRST always. You only fall once. Use every safety device -available. Remember this book only tells you how to rig, but it takes -common sense while following these methods, and that is, take no chances -where you =think= a thing will hold. Be =sure= it holds. - -The first thing to do when getting into the boatswain chair is to see -that your lines are not twisted. Have your helper walk out some fifteen -or twenty feet from the stack. Take the fall line with you on your way -up. The stack hook, extra hook, sling string, small stick, hang line, -and you are ready. - -Quite a load going up! After placing the line between your legs and -your helper stands away out, this helps to avoid the twisting of your -line. While going up remember this: A very steady pull, the two pulling -together. Long grabs and jerks are liable to prove disastrous, as it may -cause the line to snap. Half-inch line has tremendous straining power; -nevertheless, there are flaws in rope and rope also rots. - -My first experience on a stack I remember I wanted to buy 1½-inch line. -Now wouldn’t I have had a wonderful time trying to get that ton of rope -to the top of a smokestack! Since then I have used ¼-inch rope, but that -is too small. At any rate I had the correct idea of “Safety First” at -the beginning. However, ½-inch is the proper size for a job not over two -hundred (200) feet high. - -Now, when nearing the top guy wire, have your helper slack up, allowing -you to continue the pull alone. When the two blocks are together tie a -safety line to the wire. Tie the extra hook to the stick and the end of -the sling to your chair, then in the hook, passing the hook over and in -the eye of the band. Pull the stick away from the hook. You then tie the -stick to the block attached to the guy wire. After this is done, lower -yourself until your weight rests on the line hooked in at the band. - -Make sure when lifting the riggings away from the wire that they don’t -fall, leaving you up there in a great predicament. If this should happen, -you will agree with me on that point. - -Experience is a great teacher. I have had this experience: On lifting -the block away from the wire, place it in the eye of the band; also draw -yourself up close to the band. Untie the sling, tying it closer to the -hook, then draw up a long pole—the size you figure you will need to reach -the top with. Tie the stack hook to the pole; put the block and falls in -the hook; push it to the top. - -[Illustration: Poling to the Top of a Smokestack] - -Now, not in all cases is this as easy to do as to say. If the top is only -fifteen or twenty feet from the band, it can be done without much effort, -but should it be a reach of thirty or thirty-five feet, I would suggest -the following method: - -Tie a hook to the pole just so it will stay on. A light hook is required -for this. Place your handy line through the eye of the hook. Tie the -handy line end down about eight feet from the top of the pole, then lash -yourself to the band, pull yourself up and stand in the chair, throwing -one leg over the guy wire. Make yourself good and solid, spread your feet -out in the chair. Do not have them together. This sometimes prevents the -chair from sliding to one side. Above all remember never to let your -riggings get away from you. You are in a mighty tiresome position. Always -be sure to have a handy line with you in making a reach of thirty or -thirty-five feet. Figure your pole, which is only two by two or so, is -easily broken in a little wind. I have had poles break eight or ten times -before reaching the top of a stack. - -Now, in pushing the pole up with a handy line, always wait until the wind -ceases for a second, then up with it. This has to be done quickly. With -the pole leaning against the stack once over the top, pull the pole away -from the light hook, lower the pole until the top end is at the band. -Tie on the hook and block, then, with the handy line now over the top, -pull on it and at the same time push on the pole with a steady push and -pull. The rest is very simple. After this is accomplished, undo yourself -from the band, lowering yourself into the boatswain chair. Hook up the -riggings to the chair, start for the top, cut away the pole, lower it -down and start your work. - -[Illustration: Climbing Guy Wire with Slings and Chair] - - - - -HOW TO CHANGE THE RIGGINGS - - -When completing one side of a stack and in order to get the tackle to -another position on the stack, twist the rope, making it all in one; then -leave a little slack to make a snake whip movement towards the top, and -you will have the satisfaction of seeing your rigging move around on the -top. If the wind is blowing hard, perhaps you will have to do several of -the switching movements before getting the hook to start to move. Then -take the line around the guy wire and you are ready for the next set. - - - - -STEEL STACKS WITH BRICK LINING - - -You will encounter a little difficulty in the shifting of your riggings -from the ground when you are working on steel stacks with brick linings. -In fact, you will save time by not trying to shift from the ground. If -the brick extends all the way to the top, you will have to have a hook -large enough to spread over the steel and brick. - -It is wise to go to the top, whether you have to tow it over fresh paint -or not. In doing this you have your helper walk out some fifteen or -twenty feet. You then place your legs around the fall line; after this is -done both you and your helper pull together. - -In this movement you are going up backwards with your back towards the -stack, until about half way up; then turn with your face towards the -stack. Daub the tips of your shoes with paint; this helps to cover up -the prints of your shoes on the fresh paint. If you do not comply with -this rule, the print of your shoes on the fresh paint will look from the -ground as if those spots had never been painted, and would tend to leave -a bad impression as to your workmanship with the man for whom you are -doing this work. Neat and impressive work draws more returns. On reaching -the top an equal size hook is required, as aforesaid, with the sling, -afterward having your helper take the fall line over the guy wires and -you are ready to do another set. - - - - -SMOKESTACKS WITH LADDERS - - -There is no use of going into detail about rigging a stack that has a -ladder on it. This can be answered in a very few words: Walk up the -ladder and hook the rigging over the top. But there is this much about -it—Watch your step! These ladders after a few years become very rusty and -the bolts where connected from the inside are sometimes eaten away by -the gas from the coal, and just a little weight on them might cause the -handles to give way. So always remember to be very careful when climbing -a smokestack that has a ladder connected to it. - - - - -STEEL STACKS DECAY AT BAND - - -You will notice that as a general rule steel stacks commence to weaken at -the first half-dozen sections from the top downward, or at the band. The -rain hitting the in- and outside from the top, and lying around the band, -is causing the rust to form more quickly than on any other part of the -stack. This accounts for the aforesaid parts weakening the quickest. - -It is always wise to sound a stack at the top and band so as to determine -whether it will stand much tugging or bouncing upon. If it looks weak and -you make up your mind that you will go through with what you are doing, -I would suggest that you do all the pulling and take just what tools you -can possibly get along with. - - - - -REGUYING - - -To reguy a smokestack it is necessary to have these parts before the job -is really called complete: Turn-buckles for the bottom ends of the guys -and clips for both ends. Although you can guy a smokestack without these -articles, it is best to have them. Without the aid of the turn-buckle to -draw the slack out of the guy wires, a device like this can be used: Lash -the guy wire with a sling, using two half-hitches so as to grip the wire. -Tie a bow-line knot at the opposite end so as to enable you to attach the -block and fall, placing the opposite block in the eye of the guy wire -anchor, then by pulling on the fall line, this takes the slack from the -wire, even with the turn-buckles. Sometime you will have to resort to -this method in order to take up the loose slack. - -[Illustration: Drawing Guy Wire Tight with Block and Falls] - -When guying a stack the first thing to do is to place the spool that -holds the wire between two boxes of equal size. Take your handy line and -a small single block when going up to attach the guys; hook this single -block to the eye of the band at the position where you are to work; have -your helper tie the handy line about three feet down from the end of the -guy wire, and then bend the wire double. You then have your helper do -the pulling up of the guy wire. Should you do the pulling while sitting -in the chair, you would soon notice the strain from it in the stomach. -As you have nothing under the feet to press the strain there, it really -falls to the stomach to receive all the hard work. Always leave some -slack to the guy wire. - -A stack must vibrate to a certain extent, therefore if the guy wires are -drawn as tight as they possibly can be, the chances are the result would -be a broken wire or an anchor giving way. - -[Illustration: Helper Pulling Guy Wire Up to Stack Band] - -In using clips to fasten the wire at both ends, they should be a size -larger than the guy wire, and when clips are not available, allow about -two feet over. After passing guy wires through the eye of the band or the -eye of the anchor, take a piece of gas pipe of a size that will slip -down over the guy wire some foot or a foot and a half, then twist the -end of the guy wire with the gas pipe around the other part of wire that -extends down. This is a wonderful way to fasten the wire to the stack, -and will last as long as the stack will. - -[Illustration: Turning Guy Wire with Steel Pipe] - - - - -TRIPPING THE RIGGINGS - - -Tripping the riggings off the stack after the job is completed takes -only the work of a few minutes. See to it before making the last trip -up that you have that necessary appliance with which to save you a few -unnecessary trips up and down. - -Take a small steel bar about ¼-inch in size and bend it into the shape of -the letter S. Judge the diameter of the band on top of the stack; make -the hook so it will fit snugly on top. This hook should not be over five -inches long. After placing the trip hook on the stack, take your handy -line, lay it on the hook, tie the end of your line in the eye of your -stack hook, then tie up about two inches above the eye in several places. -The last two tie-offs will prevent the stack hook from falling to one -side. - -[Illustration: Handy Line Attached from S Hook to Stack Hook] - -[Illustration: Results of Turning Hook in Wrong Direction] - -[Illustration: Hook Turned in Proper Direction for Tripping] - -After leaving the stack, have your helper tie the handy line away from -the stack. This flopping back and forth will annoy you while at work. -After you have finished and are ready to trip, twist the rigging until -it is twisted all the way to the top. In doing this twist the rope so -that the stack hook will turn out and away from the trip hook. This is -important. Leave slack on the riggings at the same time. Do not let it -untwist. Then take the trip line, pull steady on it, until you see the -stack hook raise up and over the stack. Then lower on the trip line until -you see the stack hook is off and below the top of the stack. Then let go -of the riggings so they will untwist; lower away; untie the handy line -from the block hook; then pull one end of the handy line to the top. It -will go through the small S up there and fall to the ground, leaving the -small S hook on top of the stack. - - - - -SELF-SUPPORTERS - - -Steel smokestacks are generally supported by guy wires, although there -are some steel stacks without guy wires, which are called self-supporters. - -Self-supporters taper at the base and have an extra heavy foundation and -a ladder to enable you to climb to the top, although in my travels I -have come in contact with one self-supporter that had neither ladder nor -gimblet wire. Fortunately this self-supporter was very small in diameter. - -In order to make the top of this particular stack I had to rely on an -extension ladder, working my way up by degrees; first lashing the ladder -to the stack, extending it as far as safety would permit, then lashing -the stack again with an extra large sling about ¾-inch, making a bow-line -knot and with a sling to both sides of the ladder I used the block and -fall, pulling the bottom part of the ladder up as far as possible, -lashing off again, then pushing the top part up. - -[Illustration: Ladder Lashed to Self-Supporting Stack] - -After making the lower half of the extension ladder solid at the top and -bottom so as not to permit it to sway to either side, climb the top half -of the ladder, lashing the stack again, and repeat as before. Guy wires -have to be replaced from time to time, as these wires rust and fall down, -leaving the stack to the mercy of the winds, if not attended to before -they become so badly decayed. - -As stated before, stacks that are supported by guy wires have from one to -three sets, and generally four wires to a set. A ½-inch galvanized wire -is sufficient for any stack, although some people prefer a larger size -wire for double safety. - - - - -KNOTS - - -Knots are a very important factor in the Steeple-Jack’s life. Only knots -that have been properly tested should be used. Many a terrible disaster -has been caused by the use of a knot which was quickly invented by a man -and never tested. Avoid such accidents by learning to tie knots in the -proper fashion. - -Slip knots are bothersome as well as dangerous to both the person -working in the air and the people walking underneath. There are very few -knots that are useful to the Steeple-Jack, and it is well for every man -following this trade to learn to make these few knots well and thereby -avoid delay when in need. - -For instance, if you were on the top of a stack and saw a part of your -rigging that did not look any too safe, or you were near a band and -saw your hook was only sitting on top of the stack and not inside, as -it should be. A sling and the knowledge of tying knots properly is -required. Practice until you are thoroughly familiar with this important -part of your trade. - - - - -SQUARE KNOT - - -As I said before, slippery knots are bothersome in many cases. When you -use the slip knot the only way to get it out is to cut the line; then you -are disfiguring the line or shortening it. - -The square knot and the bow-line knot are the ones most commonly used. - -In tying a square knot take the ends of the rope, passing the left end -over and under the right, and then take the right end and pass it over -and under the left. - -In trying to make the square knot there often forms what is known to line -men as “the granny,” which is useless for any hazardous purpose. Follow -the instructions of right over and left over and you can’t go wrong in -making the best-liked knot of all—the SQUARE KNOT. - -In using the square knot while working in the chair, make two half -hitches in each end of the line. This is used to insure double safety. - -When using the square knot for the purpose of adding more line to the -riggings, tie both ends of the lines (as illustrated on page 61). - -[Illustration: Square Knot] - -[Illustration: Granny Knot] - -[Illustration: Square Knot Sized at Both Ends] - - - - -BOW-LINE - - -A more efficient knot than the bow-line knot was never known. This knot -is used more than any five knots put together in the Steeple Jack’s work. - -The bow-line knot is mostly favored in climbing a flagstaff, when making -the stirrup to climb, and in many ways for the smokestack. - -In making the bow-line knot follow the illustrations according to -numbers. In No. 1 the rope is formed in a bight; pass No. 1 through the -bight under then over and then under, as illustrated in No. 2; then over -and down through the bight as illustrated in Nos. 3 and 4. Draw tight as -illustrated on page 63. - -As I said before, the bow-line knot is a very useful knot on the -flagpole. By placing the sling around the pole, passing the end through -the eye, then make your bow-line knot, leaving the loop for the size of -your foot so as to slip your foot in. - -[Illustration: How to Tie the Bow-line Knot] - - - - -HALF HITCHES - - -The half hitch is used very frequently by the Steeple Jack, especially in -tying off the riggings for the night or pulling up a pole or paint. In -making the half hitches, pass the end around the object you are tying, -then over and around, standing part between the object and itself; then -under and around the standing parts and between own loop and the one -first formed. It is no more difficult and takes no longer to make this -knot than it does for you to count three. Illustrations on page 65. - -[Illustration: Half Hitch] - - - - -THE BLACK WALL - - -The Black Wall, known by many as the chair hitch, is used by the Steeple -Jack while working in the chair up or down; stopping to rest or work, -reach through the rope of your chair, grab the fall line by the right -hand, pulling it through between yourself and the rope of your chair. At -the same movement turning the rope from left to right making a loop in -this movement, reach up and set it on the hook of the block at the chair; -while doing this reach with the left hand and hold your four lines tight -together. This prevents you from going down while making the Black Wall -or chair hitch, as it is commonly known. - -[Illustration: Black Wall Knot] - - - - -TANKS, TOWERS AND STANDPIPES - - -Water tanks, water towers or water standpipes are an easy matter to work -on as far as the rigging is concerned, but not as much money is to be -made as on smokestacks, church steeples and flagpoles. Nevertheless, they -are worth soliciting. - -Take, for instance, a water tank. A water tank consists of only the tank -itself sitting on a flat roof or ground. Water tanks vary in size. - -We will say a tank twelve (12) feet in diameter, fifteen (15) feet in -height, with very little rust scales. This tank can be painted in about -three hours and requires no more than three and one-half gallons of oil -paint. I have received as high as Sixty ($60.00) Dollars for a few hours’ -work on tanks of this kind. - -[Illustration: Painting Water Tank] - -Standpipes are more on the order of smokestacks. Some have brick -foundations running up a third of the way and again others have brick -half of the way up and the other half steel, while you find some that are -all steel from the bottom to the top. - -All standpipes have ladders going to the top, therefore it is an easy -matter to rig such standpipes with a set of falls and work in a boatswain -chair. - -For an example we will take a standpipe that is made of steel and that -is one hundred and twenty-five (125) feet in height, twelve (12) feet -in diameter. A standpipe of this kind would require about eighteen (18) -gallons of oil paint. It would take one man working in a boatswain chair -about three and one-half (3½) days. It is always safe to ask about -$250.00 for a job of this nature. - -[Illustration: Painting Standpipe] - - - - -WATER TOWERS - - -A chair man considers a water tower more difficult to work on than the -two mentioned previously. - -The majority of water towers are supported by four stiff legs. Some have -more and very few less. You will find very few water towers that stand -less than one hundred and fifty (150) feet high. - -To paint a water tower it is best to start on the tank proper, tying -a rope over the ball or pole that extends from the top of the tank, -allowing enough rope so that it will extend to the edge of the roof of -the tank, then attach the block and falls to same. Take the other end of -the rope, which is attached to the top of the tank, running it down on -the opposite side from where you are going to work, and there fasten it -securely to the beam under the platform to the other side. - -[Illustration: WATER TOWER] - -Attach the riggings at the top of each stiff leg to the platform while -working down the leg supports. - -It takes considerable time and plenty of patience when working on a water -tower. - -A water tower one hundred and fifty (150) feet high with four stiff legs -and the tank proper about twelve (12) feet in diameter by twenty (20) -feet in height will require in the neighborhood of twenty-five (25) -gallons of oil paint. It will take one man approximately four days and -a half (4½). It should not be difficult for you to secure about Three -Hundred and Fifty ($350.00) Dollars for a job of this kind. - - - - -CHURCH SPIRES - - -A tapering construction and not a hard job to rig after once tried. If -you are capable of rigging a church spire, then it is an easy matter for -you to rig a church dome or any other structure of that nature. - -For the majority of church jobs an extension ladder is the handiest -article. After drawing the extension ladder up to what is known to the -Jack as the pigeon hole window in the church spire, build your platform -from the window with 3×4 lumber, extending it out some six feet; lower -a line down on both sides of the window, having your helper tie the two -ends together around the lower section of the spire. Then by drawing it -to the window you will have your first loop around the steeple. Place -the extension ladder on the platform; nail two boards to the inside of -the window, then attach other ends of boards to the ladder. Use all the -safety devices available when going out on the ladder. Lash the ladder -wherever it is possible and also yourself by placing a line under the -arms and tying the line that you have around the spire, working it up as -far as you can go, then lash this to the ladder so as to keep the ladder -from swaying to the left or right. - -[Illustration: Showing Ladder Position from Pigeon-hole on Spire] - -An extension ladder will bring you within a distance from which you can -easily lasso the spire. Then by using the system already mentioned in -the self-supporting stacks without ladders you will be in a position to -accomplish any work you are on the spire for. - -[Illustration: Showing Where Riggings Should Be Lashed at Top of Spire] - - - - -THE FLAGSTAFF - - -Although the flagstaff is the most simple part of the Steeple Jack’s -work, at the same time it is the most dangerous. Before climbing a wooden -pole look all around it first to see if any cracks are visible. In all -probability there are, as most wooden poles are cracked. If the crack -runs up and down then the pole is safe, unless it is dry rot, but if the -crack runs crosswise on the pole watch your step. Chances are it will -hold, but again it might not. Watch your step, because no one will watch -it for you. Remember, a man can only fall once. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE STAFF - - -The flagpole is composed of the following parts: The pole ball, spindle, -truck, sheave, cleat, brace and halyard. - -The halyard is the rope with which the flag is drawn up to the top, and -it is never used for climbing purposes. The art of climbing a flagpole -with ease and performing that which is to be done upon the pole will be -explained in detail later on. - -The ball on the top of the staff plays no important part. It is used more -for ornamental purposes than anything else. - -The spindle is the rod that runs from the ball through the truck into the -pole. - -The truck holds the sheave. - -The sheave holds the halyard. - -The cleat is for the purpose of tying the halyard to a few feet from the -base of the pole. The majority of poles have iron braces for support -connected about six (6) feet up from the base of the pole. - -From experience I find the steel pole the most dangerous. In my opinion -it is more dangerous than the wooden pole for the reason that rust forms -inside of the steel pole and around the bands where it is connected, and -in the winter time it is easily broken by the cold weather if any weight -is put on it, whereas the wooden pole can be tested by sounding it as to -its condition. - -If the wooden pole has the dead sound it is in all probability dry rot, -and with a pole of this kind I would advise you to be extremely careful. -Never sway such a pole any more than you absolutely must, and take plenty -of time in climbing it. A pole in this condition gives no warning before -it breaks, but a pole with plenty of sap gives a cracking sound before it -gives way, which gives the man working on it a chance to slide to a more -secure position. - -[Illustration: Climbing Flagstaff With Slings] - -A boatswain chair and two slings are the only tools necessary to work -on a flagpole. Take two slings made of at least ½-inch line, splice an -eye in the end of each sling—the eye being about two inches in diameter; -place the sling around the pole, drawing the end opposite from the eye -through the eye; do likewise with the other sling; tie the boatswain -chair to the top sling, allowing five inches from the rope of the -boatswain chair to the eye of the sling; tie a loop in the end of the -lower sling—tying a bow-line knot. This is called a stirrup. Leave the -same distance from eye to knot as from the chair to the knot. Get into -the boatswain chair. - -The first thing to do is to see that the loop around the pole is as tight -as it will go. Then place your foot in the stirrup, take hold of the pole -to steady yourself, raise up in the stirrup, and with the right hand push -the sling holding the chair up, again making the sling tight to the pole. -Sit down in the chair, reach down and pull the stirrup sling up until you -can get your foot in. Repeat these movements and you will see how simple -it is to climb without exerting yourself. - -At every movement going up and coming down make sure that the sling that -holds the chair is secure and thereby prevent it from slipping down. -Should it be loose and slip down and your foot in the stirrup, the result -would undoubtedly be that you would be dangling in the air head down. -Avoid all of this by taking every precaution. - - - - -TOP OF POLES - - -At any time you are working on a flagpole and the work consists of -replacing a truck, ball or spindle, the only thing to do is to make sure -of the pole being solid enough for a little swaying. If so, take a sling, -lash yourself to the pole under the arms as a back brace, then reach up -and pull yourself up and stand in the chair. Avoid shaking the pole as -much as you possibly can. Then draw up the saw. - -Saw off about one foot of the top, take a brace and bit, drill the holes, -chip off around the edges and set your new truck on. The spindle should -be set about from 8 to 10 inches down in the pole, then wedge in with -small sticks to make it solid. - -In painting a flagpole use the halyard to hold your paint. Twist the rope -several times to keep it at the same distance as yourself. In painting a -pole work down as you work up. - -[Illustration: Working the Top of a Flagstaff] - -[Illustration: S Hook Used for Tripping Purpose] - -[Illustration: Swivel Snap] - -[Illustration: Cleat] - -[Illustration: Top of Flagstaff] - -[Illustration: Five-inch Brush Is Mostly Used by Steeple-Jacks] - -[Illustration: Come-along Used for Tightening Guy Wire] - -[Illustration: Double Steel Ball-bearing Block Is Preferred by the Stack -Man] - -[Illustration: Single Steel Block] - -[Illustration: Clip] - -[Illustration: Guy Wire with Clips] - -[Illustration: Turn-buckle] - -[Illustration: Gimblet Block] - -[Illustration: Extension Ladder] - - - - -PRICES TO CHARGE FOR WORK - - -Prices vary in the different parts of the country, so it is really -difficult for me to give you exact pointers on that, but we will take for -an example a smokestack one hundred and fifty feet (150) feet high, six -(6) feet in diameter, in six sections of the United States. These prices -are figured on the basis as follows (the firm or individual for whom you -are doing the job is to furnish the paint under these prices): - - New York, N. Y. $130.00 - Chicago, Ill. 170.00 - Denver, Colo. 170.00 - San Antonio, Tex. 140.00 - New Orleans, La. 135.00 - San Francisco, Cal. 130.00 - -The following prices are used as to flagstaffs sixty (60) feet high: - - New York, N. Y. $35.00 - Chicago, Ill. 40.00 - Denver, Colo. 40.00 - San Antonio, Tex. 35.00 - New Orleans, La. 35.00 - San Francisco, Cal. 35.00 - -With reference to forty (40) foot staffs, use the following schedule: - - New York, N. Y. $25.00 - Chicago, Ill. 30.00 - Denver, Colo. 30.00 - San Antonio, Tex. 25.00 - New Orleans, La. 25.00 - San Francisco, Cal. 25.00 - -As above stated, these are not standard prices, but it is safe for you to -quote your prices along these lines. - - - - -NAMES OF KNOTS, BENDS, BIGHTS AND HITCHES - - - Black Wall Hitch - Bow Knots - Bow-line - Bow-line on bight - Bow shortening - Builders’ hitch - Builders’ knot - Butchers’ knots - Catspaws - Chain hitch - Chain knots - Clinches - Close band - Clove hitch - Crown knots - Cuckolds’ necks - Deadeyes - Dogshanks - Double chain - Double crown - Double figure-eight - Double knots - Double wall - Double wall and crown - Eye splice - Figure-eight knot - Fisherman’s hitch - Fisherman’s knot - Fivefold knot - Flemish eye - Fourfold knot - French shroud knot - Gaff-topsail halyard bend - Garrick bend - Gordian knot - Granny knot - Gunner’s knot - Half-hitch - Half-hitch and seizing - Half-hitch - Hawser hitch - Hawsers - Hitches - Larks’ heads - Magnus hitch - Manrope knot - Matthew Walker knot - Midshipmen’s hitch - Mooring knots - Open-hand knot - Ordinary knot - Overhand knot - Pier bend - Reef knot - Reefing knots - Roband hitch - Rolling hitch - Running bow-line - Running knot - Sailors’ knots - Sheepshanks - Short splice - Shroud knots - Simple hitch - Simple knots - Sixfold knot - Slip knots - Slippery hitch - Square knots - Stopper knot - Threefold knot - Throat seizing - Timber hitch - Tomfool knot - Treble knot - Turks’ caps - Turks’ heads - Twist knot - Wall knots - Waterman’s knot - Weavers’ knot - Wedding knot - Whipping - Wind knots - - -THE END - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STEEPLE-JACK'S -INSTRUCTOR *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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