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font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The automobile owner's guide, by Frank B. Scholl</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The automobile owner's guide</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Frank B. Scholl</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 18, 2022 [eBook #69375]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AUTOMOBILE OWNER'S GUIDE ***</div> - -<div class="tnbox"> -<p class="center">Please see the <a href="#TN">Transcriber’s Notes</a> at the end of this text.</p> -</div> - -<div class="x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="container w35em"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover image" class="bordered"> -</div> - -<hr class="chap"> - -</div><!--no epub--> - -<h1>THE AUTOMOBILE<br> -<span class="gesp1">OWNER’S GUIDE</span></h1> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<p class="center highline15 fsize250"><span class="gesp2">THE AUTOMOBILE</span><br> -<span class="gesp3">OWNER’S GUIDE</span></p> - -<p class="center blankbefore4 blankafter4">BY<br> -<span class="fsize150">FRANK B. SCHOLL</span></p> - -<div class="container w05em"> -<img src="images/illo003.png" alt="Inter folia fructus logo"> -</div> - -<p class="center blankbefore4"><span class="fsize150 gesp1">D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</span><br> -<span class="fsize125"><span class="padr10">NEW YORK</span><span class="padl10">LONDON</span><br> -1920</span></p> - -<hr class="chap"> - -<p class="center blankbefore4 blankafter4"><span class="fsize80">COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY</span><br> -D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</p> - -<p class="center blankbefore4 fsize70">PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagev">[v]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">PREFACE</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - - -<p>The automobile has taken its place as one of the most successful -and useful inventions of the day. It is equaled only -by the internal combustion gas engine, which is a factor in -making it practical and efficient.</p> - -<p>Gasoline-propelled vehicles have become one of man’s greatest -aids in business efficiency, but nevertheless it is very important -that we consider the facts, that the adoption of the -automobile by man for business, commerce and pleasure is -on a very large scale, and that the production by manufacturers -is so great that very little thought is given to proper -care, which is an ever-present factor in economical operation -and a fair return for the investment.</p> - -<p>The purpose of this book is to serve as a practical guide for -those who own, operate, or contemplate purchasing an automobile.</p> - -<p>The contents of this book cover the entire field that would -be of value to the owner or chauffeur in making his own repairs. -The parts and expressions are given in their simplest -form; technical terms, tables and scales have been entirely -eliminated, as they mean little or nothing to the average -owner, and are of value only to the mechanical engineer and -draftsman.</p> - -<p>The illustrations, drawings and diagrams are intended only -for the purpose of bringing out points that are more readily -understood and explained in this manner. No attempt has -been made to conform to proportionate exactness or scale accurateness.</p> - -<p>Since there are many different makes of cars, motors, and -equipment, the functional action of all is practically the same, -therefore we use for illustration only those which are used by -the majority of manufacturers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagevi">[vi]</span></p> - -<p>While, as a general rule, you will find all automobiles efficient -and reliable, troubles and conditions are bound to arise -that are somewhat puzzling; therefore, to assist the owner, -we have written a <a href="#Page264">chapter</a> on trouble hints conveniently arranged -in three columns, headed troubles, cause, and remedy.</p> - -<p>The entire book is worked out along such lines, and so -arranged, that a man or a boy with a common school education -can easily master it and become an efficient mechanic.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagevii">[vii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INTRODUCTION</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>After twelve years’ experience with the automobile, I find -that only one-third of the present-day owners understand the -mechanical operation, care and proper upkeep of their cars; -the other two-thirds know little or nothing of their cars, and -are unable to locate or detect trouble, or make the slightest -adjustment necessary to remedy it. This fact remains as the -chief cause of the present high depreciation in cars, and the -loss of millions of dollars annually to automobile owners.</p> - -<p>After two years of observation and close investigation, I -find the vast majority of the present owners are eager to acquire -mechanical knowledge, but they have not accomplished -their aim, chiefly because the available books to attain that -end are too technical, dry, and overdescriptive for the average -owner and beginner in mechanics.</p> - -<p>The automobile is not an individually constructed piece of -machinery, but a combination of individual inventions, each -adapted to a functional purpose, which is necessary to the -harmony of successful operation. A great many of these -mechanical achievements are of delicate construction, and very -apt to get out of adjustment. This, however, is not always -the case, as grease, dirt and foreign matter with which the -various parts come in contact often prevent them from operating -properly.</p> - -<p>Therefore a little common knowledge of operation and a -little care will enable an owner to operate his car successfully, -thereby avoiding unnecessary trouble, damage and expense.</p> - -<p>One of the chief aims of the writer is to make this book -interesting and thorough, in order to hold the reader until -he understands the entire contents, after which he should be -able to make any necessary repairs and adjustments, or to -hold a position as automobile mechanic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageviii">[viii]</span></p> - -<p>In order to accomplish the foregoing and prevent a student -from becoming discouraged we use functional principle -as the base for explanation whenever possible.</p> - -<p>The instructions set forth in this book are not taken merely -from theory, but have been put into successful operation by -the writer, who for several years sold cars in outlying districts -where garage facilities were limited, and where it was -necessary to make a mechanic of every purchaser in order -to sustain the high reputation of the car sold. Later on his -plan of instructions was used in an automobile school where -he was chief instructor, and still later they were developed -into a note system which he used in establishing an automobile -school in the city of Toledo, Ohio.</p> - -<p>The students turned out by this school were very efficient -and successful, and finished the course in less than one-half -the time usually required for the average automobile course.</p> - -<p>This book was written during the twenty months that the -writer spent in the U. S. Army, from the note system used -in his automobile school.</p> - -<p class="right padr2 blankbefore15">F. B. S.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageix">[ix]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="toc"> - -<tr> -<th colspan="2"> </th> -<th class="right fsize70">PAGE</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Preface</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagev">v</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagevii">vii</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">History of the Gasoline Engine and Early Automobile -construction</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page1">1</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Purchasing a new car</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page3">3</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Purchasing a used car</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page4">4</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Selecting and testing a used car</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page5">5</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Driving instructions</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page6">6</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Road rules for city and country</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page9">9</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">What to do in case of accident</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page10">10</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER I.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Gasoline Engine Construction, and Parts</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page12">12</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">The engine block castings, cylinders, pistons, connecting rods, bearings, crank shaft, -cam shaft and fly-wheel.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER II.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Valve Construction and Operation</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page21">21</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Valve construction. Types and operation of the valves in an 8-cylinder V-type engine. Valve -locations and valve grinding. Valve care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER III.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">The Operation of a 4-Cycle 4-Cylindered Gasoline Engine</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page29">29</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Explaining the cycle. The 4-, 6-, 8-, 12-cylindered engine—The Knight sleeve valve engine—S. A. E. -Horse Power scale—Displacement-Engine charts—Lubrication oils and greases—Lubrication systems—Care—Cleaning—and adjusting -of lubrication systems.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER IV.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagex">[x]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Brief Treatise on Carburetion</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page45">45</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">The Stromberg plain tube Model M carburetor. Principle of action—Installation—Adjustment and -maintenance—Stromberg Model L adjustment.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER V.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Nitro Sunderman Carburetor</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page60">60</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Principle of action, action of venturi, adjustment and general care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">The Schebler Model R carburetor, action and adjustment points.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER VI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Stewart Carburetor</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page65">65</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Principle of operation—Adjustment and maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER VII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Carter Carburetor</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page70">70</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operating principle—Adjustment and care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER VIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Schebler Plain Tube Carburetor</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page72">72</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operation—Instructions for installing, adjustment and maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER IX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Kerosene Carburetors</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page76">76</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operating principle—Installation and adjustment.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER X.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Heated Manifolds and Hot Spots</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page79">79</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Action—Advantage and design.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Cooling Systems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page82">82</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Purpose of cooling system—Circulating systems—The force pump circulating system—Overheating—Radiator -cleaning—Freezing—Freezing solutions—Radiator repairing—The air cooling system.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XII.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexi">[xi]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Muffler Construction</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page86">86</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Purpose—Advantage—Type—Assembly and Maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Vacuum Systems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page89">89</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operating principle—Purpose of the air vent—Failure to feed gasoline to carburetor—Removing -top—Cleaning gasoline strainer screen—Operating principle and general maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XIV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Electrical Dictionary of Parts, Units and Terms</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page95">95</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Voltage—Amperage—Ohms—Current—Circuit—Low tension Current—High Tension Current—Induction -coil—Commutator—Insulation—Shunt or choking coil—Fuse—Condenser—Dynamo—Voltaic cell—Accumulator—Storage -battery—Electrolyte—Hydrometer—Ammeter—Circuit breaker—Switch—Generator—Regulator—Contact-breaker—Non-vibrating -coil—Distributors.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">The Magneto</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page101">101</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Parts—Assemblage—Operating principle.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XVI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Bosch High Tension Magneto, Type ZR</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page105">105</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operating principle—Primary or low tension circuit—Secondary or high tension circuit—Timing -magneto gears—Timing magneto with engine—The condenser—Safety spark gap—Interrupter timing range—Cutting out -ignition—Caution—Care—Maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XVII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Magneto Washing, Repairing and Timing</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page111">111</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Magneto cleaning—Magneto repairing—Magneto assembling—Magneto timing to engine.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XVIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">North East Ignition System</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page114">114</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Wiring ignition distributor—Ignition coil—Breaker box and distributor head assembly—Condenser—Breaker -contacts—Breaker cam—Distributor head—Automatic spark advance mechanism—Manual spark control—Timing the distributor—General -care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XIX.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexii">[xii]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Atwater Kent Ignition Systems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page126">126</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Type CC system—Operating principle—Setting or timing—Adjustment—Oiling—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Atwater Kent Battery Ignition System</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page132">132</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Type K-2-Operating principle—Operation of contact maker—Contactless distributor—Wiring diagram of -current flowage—Setting and timing the unisparker—Timing with engine—Automatic spark advance—Contact point adjustment—Oiling -diagram—Condenser—Testing for ignition trouble.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Philbrin Single Spark, and High Frequency Duplex Ignitioystems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page141">141</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operation of contact maker—Current induction—Duplex system—Duplex switch—Duplex switch -action—Wiring diagram—Adjustment of contact points—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Electrical Starting and Lighting Systems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page147">147</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">The generator—The regulator—The automatic cut-out—One unit system—Two unit system—Three unit -system—The starting motor—Lubrication—Maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Electric Lighting and Starting Systems</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page154">154</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Wiring diagram Bijur system—Operation of Bijur system—Starting motor—Operation of starting -motor—Wiring circuits—Fuse—Ground fuse—Lamp controller—Oiling—Battery testing—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXIV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">North East Starter Used on Dodge Brothers’ Cars</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page161">161</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Model G starter-generator operation—Wiring diagram—Starter-generator action—Mounting—Drive—Charging -rate adjustment—Fuse—Locating trouble—Starting switch and reverse current cut-out—Running with battery disconnected.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXV.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexiii">[xiii]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">The Delco Electrical System</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page167">167</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Motoring the generator—Cranking the engine—Generating electrical energy—Diagram of motor generator -operation—Lubrication—Ignition switch—Circuit breaker—Ignition coil—Distributor—Contact breaker and timer—Care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXVI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Storage Battery</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page180">180</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Construction—Chemical action—Cells—Electrolyte solution—Battery charging—Care and -maintenance—Hydrometer testing—Battery idle—Battery freezing—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXVII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Spark Plugs and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page186">186</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Type—Construction—Connections—Assembling—Repairing—Cleaning—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXVIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Clutch Construction, Type and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page189">189</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Clutch operation—Gear shifting—Change speeds—Cone clutch—Cone clutch care—Cone clutch -adjustment—Multiple disc clutch—Borg and Beck clutch—Borg and Beck clutch adjustment—Disc clutch cleaning, wet plate, -dry plate—Cone clutch leather—Cone clutch leather patterns—Cutting—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXIX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Transmissions, Types, Operation and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page198">198</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operation of—Planetary type—Progressive type—Selective type—Gear shifts—Unit-power-plant—Transmission -cleaning—Lubrication—Care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Universal Joints</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page204">204</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Universal joints—Slip joints—Operation—Construction diagram—Tightening—Lubrication—Care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Differential Gears</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page207">207</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Bevel gear action—Construction—Adjusting—Gearless differential—Action—Adjustment—Advantage—Worm -gear drive differential—Operation—Adjustment—Lubrication—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXII.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexiv">[xiv]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Axle Types, Operation and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page212">212</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Dead axles—The semi-floating axle—Adjustment—Lubrication—The full-floating -axle—Construction—Adjustment—Lubrication—The I-beam front axle—The spindle—Steering knuckle—Care of all types.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Brake Types, Operation and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page218">218</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Brake adjustment—Brake re-lining—Brake care—Brake cleaning.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXIV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Springs and Spring Care Tests</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page223">223</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Spring types—Spring lubrication—Weekly spring care—Bi-monthly spring care—Spring wrapping.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Alignment</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page229">229</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Wheel alignment—Lengthwise—Crosswise—Axle alignment—Lengthwise—Alignment tests—Mechanical -alignment—Lengthening wheelbase.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXVI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Steering Gears, Type and Construction</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page232">232</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Operation of worm and sector type—Adjustment of worm and sector type—Worm and nut type—Adjustment -of worm and nut type—Rack and pinion type—Connections—Drag link—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXVII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Bearing Types, Use and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page236">236</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Plain bearings—Bushings—Roller bearings—Flexible roller bearings—Radial ball bearings—Thrust ball -bearings—End thrust—Double thrust—Cleaning—Care—Maintenance.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXVIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Car Arrangement</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page243">243</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Showing location and names of parts—Adjustment—General care.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XXXIX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Overhauling the Car</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page247">247</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Instructions showing how to go about it—And how to give the car a thorough overhauling.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XL.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexv">[xv]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Repair Equipment</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page251">251</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Road repair necessities—Shop repair necessities.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XLI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Car Cleaning, Washing and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page253">253</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Body construction—Body washing—Running gear washing—Engine cleaning—Cleaning upholstering—Rug -cleaning—Windshield cleaning—Sedan or closed body cleaning—Tire cleaning—Rim cleaning—Light lens cleaning—Caution.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XLII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Tires, Build, Quality and Care</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page256">256</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">Tire care—Tire chains—Cross chains—Tube care—Tube repairing—Tire and tube storage.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XLIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Electrical System</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page259">259</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="contents">General overhauling and tuning hints.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XLIV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Automobile Painting</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page262">262</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">CHAPTER XLV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Carbon Removing</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page263">263</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Trouble Hints</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page264">264</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chapno">FORD SUPPLEMENT.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">I</td> -<td class="contents">The car—its operation and care</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page269">269</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">II</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Engine</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page277">277</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">III</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Cooling System</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page287">287</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">IV</td> -<td class="contents">The Gasoline System</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page290">290</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">V</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Ignition System</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page295">295</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">VI</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Transmission</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page301">301</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">VII</td> -<td class="contents">The Rear Axle Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page307">307</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">VIII</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Muffler</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page310">310</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">IX</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Running Gear</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page311">311</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">X</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford Lubrication System</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page316">316</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">XI</td> -<td class="contents">Care of Tires</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page320">320</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">XII</td> -<td class="contents">Points of Maintenance</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page323">323</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">XIII</td> -<td class="contents">The Ford One Ton Truck</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page325">325</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="fordno">XIV</td> -<td class="contents">The F. A. Starting and Lighting System Installed on Sedans and Coupés</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page328">328</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chapname"><span class="smcap">Index</span></td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Page335">335</a></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagexvii">[xvi-<br>xvii]</span> -<a id="Pagexvi"></a></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="loi"> - -<tr> -<th colspan="2" class="left fsize70">FIGURE</th> -<th class="right fsize70">PAGE</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig1">1</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Typical Four-Cylinder Block</td> -<td class="pagno">13</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig2">2</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cylinder Block with Head Removed</td> -<td class="pagno">13</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig3">3</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Removable Cylinder Head (Reversed)</td> -<td class="pagno">14</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig4">4</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Typical Cylinder Piston</td> -<td class="pagno">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig5">5</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Typical Piston Ring</td> -<td class="pagno">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig6">6</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Typical Connecting Rod</td> -<td class="pagno">16</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig7">7</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Counter-Balanced Crank Shaft</td> -<td class="pagno">17</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig8">8</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">5-M-B Crank Shaft</td> -<td class="pagno">17</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig9">9</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cam Shaft</td> -<td class="pagno">18</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig10">10</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Flywheel</td> -<td class="pagno">19</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig11">11</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">8-Cylinder Valve Arrangement</td> -<td class="pagno">22</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig12">12</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Poppet Valve</td> -<td class="pagno">23</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig13">13</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Valve Types, Location and Operation</td> -<td class="pagno">24</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig14">14</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Valve Timing Marks</td> -<td class="pagno">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig15">15</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Knight Valve-Timing Marks—4-Cylinder</td> -<td class="pagno">27</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig16">16</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Knight Valve-Timing Marks—8-Cylinder</td> -<td class="pagno">28</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig17">17</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">4-Stroke Cycle</td> -<td class="pagno">29</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig18">18</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Diagram of Action, 4-Cylinder 4-Cycle Engine</td> -<td class="pagno">31</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig19">19</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Power Stroke Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">32</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig20">20</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Buick Engine—Parts Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno">36</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig21">21</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Buick Engine—Location Inside Parts Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno">37</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig22">22</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Buick Motor—End View</td> -<td class="pagno">38</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig23">23</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Liberty U. S. A. Engine</td> -<td class="pagno">39</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig24">24</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Splash Oiling</td> -<td class="pagno">41</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig25">25</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Plunger Pump Oiling System</td> -<td class="pagno">42</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig26">26</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Model M Carburetor—Sectional View</td> -<td class="pagno">46</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig27">27</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Air Bleeder Action</td> -<td class="pagno">47</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig28">28</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Accelerating Well</td> -<td class="pagno">49</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig29">29</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Idling Operation</td> -<td class="pagno">51</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig30">30</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub> Open</td> -<td class="pagno">52</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig31">31</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle Wide Open</td> -<td class="pagno">53</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig32">32</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Model M—Adjustment Points</td> -<td class="pagno">55</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig33">33</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stromberg Model “L”—Adjustment Points<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexviii">[xviii]</span></td> -<td class="pagno">58</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig34">34</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Sunderman Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">60</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig35">35</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Sunderman Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">61</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig36">36</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Sunderman Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">62</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig37">37</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Sunderman Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">63</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig38">38</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Schebler Model R Carburetor Assembled</td> -<td class="pagno">64</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig39">39</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Stewart Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">66</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig40">40</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Carter Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">70</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig41">41</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Sectional View</td> -<td class="pagno">72</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig42">42</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Adjustment Points</td> -<td class="pagno">73</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig43">43</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Holley Kerosene Carburetor</td> -<td class="pagno">76</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig44">44</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Holley Kerosene Carburetor Installment</td> -<td class="pagno">77</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig45">45</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Hot Spot Manifold</td> -<td class="pagno">79</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig46">46</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Holley Vapor Manifold—Ford Cars</td> -<td class="pagno">80</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig47">47</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Thermo-Syphon Cooling System</td> -<td class="pagno">82</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig48">48</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Muffler—Three Compartment</td> -<td class="pagno">86</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig49">49</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Muffler</td> -<td class="pagno">87</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig50">50</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Vacuum System—Top Arrangement</td> -<td class="pagno">89</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig51">51</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Vacuum System Installation</td> -<td class="pagno">90</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig52">52</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Vacuum System Diagram—Stewart Warner</td> -<td class="pagno">91</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig53">53</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Vacuum System—Inside View of Parts</td> -<td class="pagno">94</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig54">54</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Coil Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">96</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig55">55</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Dynamo—Diagram of Action</td> -<td class="pagno">98</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig56">56</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Magnets—Pole Blocks</td> -<td class="pagno">101</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig57">57</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Armature Core—Wound Armature</td> -<td class="pagno">102</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig58">58</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Primary and Secondary Winding and Current Direction</td> -<td class="pagno">102</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig59">59</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Breaker—Slip Ring—Distributor</td> -<td class="pagno">103</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig60">60</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Bosch M Distributor and Interruptor—Housing Removed</td> -<td class="pagno">106</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig61">61</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wiring Diagram Bosch Magneto, Type ZR-4</td> -<td class="pagno">107</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig62">62</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wiring Diagram, North-East System—on Dodge Car</td> -<td class="pagno">115</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig63">63</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">North-East Distributor—Model O—Ignition</td> -<td class="pagno">116</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig64">64</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">North East Breaker-Box</td> -<td class="pagno">118</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig65">65</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—North East</td> -<td class="pagno">121</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig66">66</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Circuit Diagram—Type C. C.</td> -<td class="pagno">127</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig67">67</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Type C. C.</td> -<td class="pagno">128</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig68">68</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block</td> -<td class="pagno">128</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig69">69</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Distributor Wire Connections to Distributor<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexix">[xix]</span></td> -<td class="pagno">129</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig70">70</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Type C. C. Wiring Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">130</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig71">71</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System</td> -<td class="pagno">133</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig72">72</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System</td> -<td class="pagno">133</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig73">73</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System</td> -<td class="pagno">134</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig74">74</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System</td> -<td class="pagno">134</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig75">75</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block</td> -<td class="pagno">135</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig76">76</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Wiring Diagram Type K-2</td> -<td class="pagno">136</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig77">77</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent K-2 Wiring</td> -<td class="pagno">137</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig78">78</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—A-K Type K-2</td> -<td class="pagno">138</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig79">79</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Oiling Diagram—A-K Type K-2</td> -<td class="pagno">139</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig80">80</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Philbrin Contact Maker—Point Adjustment</td> -<td class="pagno">141</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig81">81</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Philbrin Contact Maker and Distributor Blade</td> -<td class="pagno">142</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig82">82</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Switch Case</td> -<td class="pagno">143</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig83">83</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Duplex High Frequency Switch</td> -<td class="pagno">144</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig84">84</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Philbrin Wiring Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">145</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig85">85</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Bijur 2-V System Mounted on Hupmobile Engine</td> -<td class="pagno">149</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig86">86</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action</td> -<td class="pagno">151</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig87">87</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action</td> -<td class="pagno">152</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig88">88</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wiring Diagram Model N—Hupmobile</td> -<td class="pagno">153</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig89">89</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey-Chesterfield Six</td> -<td class="pagno">155</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig90">90</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey Four</td> -<td class="pagno">158</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig91">91</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Hydrometer Syringe</td> -<td class="pagno">159</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno special"><a href="#Fig91A">91<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub></a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Dodge Wiring Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">162</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig92">92</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">North East Model G Starter Generator</td> -<td class="pagno">164</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig93">93</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Motor Generator—Showing Parts</td> -<td class="pagno">168</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig94">94</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Motor Generator—Diagram of Operation</td> -<td class="pagno">170</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig95">95</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Ignition Switch Plate</td> -<td class="pagno">173</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig96">96</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Ignition Switch Circuit Breaker—Mounted</td> -<td class="pagno">173</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig97">97</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Ignition Coil</td> -<td class="pagno">175</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig98">98</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Wiring Diagram—Buick Cars</td> -<td class="pagno">176</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig99">99</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Ignition Distributor</td> -<td class="pagno">177</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig100">100</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Delco Ignition Contact Breaker and Timer</td> -<td class="pagno">178</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig101">101</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Storage Battery, Sectional View</td> -<td class="pagno">180</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig102">102</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Storage Battery, Sectional View<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexx">[xx]</span></td> -<td class="pagno">182</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig103">103</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Hydrometer Syringe</td> -<td class="pagno">183</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig104">104</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Spark Plug</td> -<td class="pagno">187</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig105">105</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cone Clutch and Brake</td> -<td class="pagno">190</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig106">106</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Multi-Disc Unit Power Plant, Clutch and Transmission</td> -<td class="pagno">192</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig107">107</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Borg and Beck Clutch</td> -<td class="pagno">193</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig108">108</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cone Clutch Leathers—Pattern—Cutting</td> -<td class="pagno">196</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig109">109</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Friction Transmission</td> -<td class="pagno">199</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig110">110</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Selective Type of Gear Shifts</td> -<td class="pagno">200</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig111">111</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Sliding Gear Transmission—Sectional View</td> -<td class="pagno">201</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig112">112</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Clutch and Transmission Assembly—Unit Power Plant</td> -<td class="pagno">203</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig113">113</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Slip Joint and Universal</td> -<td class="pagno">204</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig114">114</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Universal Joint Construction Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">205</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig115">115</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Differential Action Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">207</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig116">116</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Differential Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno">208</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig117">117</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Differential Adjusting Points</td> -<td class="pagno">209</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig118">118</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Allen Gearless Differential</td> -<td class="pagno">210</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig119">119</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Semi-Floating Rear Axle</td> -<td class="pagno">213</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig120">120</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Full-Floating Axle—Wheel-End Arrangement</td> -<td class="pagno">214</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig121">121</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Full-Floating Axle</td> -<td class="pagno">214</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig122">122</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Steering Knuckle and Front Axle Parts</td> -<td class="pagno">215</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig123">123</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">I-Beam Front Axle</td> -<td class="pagno">216</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig124">124</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Brake—Types and Adjustment</td> -<td class="pagno">219</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig125">125</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Brake—Showing Toggle Arrangement</td> -<td class="pagno">220</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig126">126</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Transmission Brake—Equalizer</td> -<td class="pagno">220</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig127">127</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Brake—Arrangement and Adjustment—“Buick”</td> -<td class="pagno">221</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig128">128</a>.</td> -<td class="figname"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>-Elliptical Front Spring</td> -<td class="pagno">226</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig129">129</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Full-Elliptic Spring</td> -<td class="pagno">226</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig130">130</a>.</td> -<td class="figname"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>-Elliptical Rear Spring</td> -<td class="pagno">227</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig131">131</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Platform Spring</td> -<td class="pagno">227</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig132">132</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cantilever Spring, Front</td> -<td class="pagno">228</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig133">133</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Cantilever Spring, Rear</td> -<td class="pagno">228</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig134">134</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Wheel Alignment Diagram</td> -<td class="pagno">230</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig135">135</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Worm and Sector Steering Gear</td> -<td class="pagno">233</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig136">136</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Worm and Nut Steering Gear</td> -<td class="pagno">234</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig137">137</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Rack and Pinion Type Steering Gear</td> -<td class="pagno">234</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig138">138</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Steering Wheel</td> -<td class="pagno">235</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig139">139</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Plain Bearings or Bushings</td> -<td class="pagno">236<span class="pagenum" id="Pagexxi">[xxi]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig140">140</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Shims</td> -<td class="pagno">237</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig141">141</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Bock Roller Bearing</td> -<td class="pagno">237</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig142">142</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Hyatt Roller Bearing</td> -<td class="pagno">238</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig143">143</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Double Row Radial Ball Bearing</td> -<td class="pagno">239</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig144">144</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Double Row Thrust Bearing</td> -<td class="pagno">241</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig145">145</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">End Thrust Bearing</td> -<td class="pagno">241</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig146">146</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Car Arrangement</td> -<td class="pagno">245</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig147">147</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Motor—Sectional View</td> -<td class="pagno">278</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig148">148</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Motor—Valve and Cylinder Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno">279</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig149">149</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Fuel System</td> -<td class="pagno">290</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig150">150</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Transmission Assembly</td> -<td class="pagno">303</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig151">151</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Rear Axle System</td> -<td class="pagno">308</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig152">152</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Brake</td> -<td class="pagno">309</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig153">153</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Spindle</td> -<td class="pagno">311</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="figno"><a href="#Fig154">154</a>.</td> -<td class="figname">Ford Chassis Oiling Chart</td> -<td class="pagno">317</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page1">[1]</span></p> - -<p class="fauxh1">THE AUTOMOBILE OWNER’S -GUIDE</p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">HISTORY OF THE GAS ENGINE AND EARLY -AUTOMOBILE CONSTRUCTION</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>A great many experiments were conducted with the explosive -type of motor between 1840 and 1860. These motors -were very heavy and crude affairs and furnished little or no -power. They were either abandoned or given up by those -conducting the experiments, and had all but disappeared in -the later 50’s. The chief difficulties that they could not overcome -were, the finding of a suitable and combustible fuel, -a way to distribute it to the explosion chambers in proper -proportion, and a device to ignite it at the proper time. -Many of these early inventions used coal tar gases and gunpowder -as fuel.</p> - -<p>The first designs for an internal combustion engine of the -four stroke cycle type were devised in 1862 by M. Beau de -Rochas. These designs were taken in hand by a German by -the name of Otto, and many experiments were conducted by -him and two other Germans, Daimler and Benz, which resulted -in a fairly successful engine. The Otto Gas Engine -Co., of Deutz, Germany, was then formed with Daimler as -general manager. Experiments were carried on which resulted -in many improvements, such as valve adjusting and -electrical spark ignition. Many other smaller improvements -were worked out which overcame many of the difficulties of -the former and cruder devices.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page2">[2]</span></p> - -<p>The first gas engines were all of the single cylinder type, -very heavily constructed and produced from three to five -horse power. In 1886, Daimler conceived the idea of constructing -the multiple type of engine with water-jacketed -cylinders. Benz also completed a very successful motor in -the late fall of 1886, which embodied the water cooling idea. -The practical beginning of the gas engine as a factor in -vehicle propulsion began in the fall of 1886, when Daimler -applied his motor to a two-wheeled contrivance, which greatly -resembled our present-day motorcycle. While this machine -ran, it was not considered a very great success. Benz in the -early part of 1887, connected his motor to a three-wheeled -vehicle with which he was able to travel at the rate of three -miles per hour.</p> - -<p>The real beginning of the present-day automobile took place -in Paris, France, in 1890, when M. Panhard secured the -patent rights from Daimler to use his engine. He then built -a four-wheeled vehicle, which carried some of the ideas of -present-day construction, such as a steering device and brakes. -To this he applied his engine and was able to travel at the rate -of six miles per hour. In 1891 Peugeot Frères completed -their vehicle and installed a Benz engine. This vehicle or -car, as it was then called by the French government on account -of its being mechanically driven, was able to make from -seven to eight miles per hour.</p> - -<p>The perfecting of the automobile was hampered very much -between the years 1891 and 1898 by stringent laws that had -been enacted by the French government, which all but prohibited -the driving of a car on the public thoroughfare.</p> - -<p>The first American-made automobile of the gas propelled -type was completed in the year 1892 by Charles Duryea. -This car embodied many of our present-day ideas but was -very lightly constructed and under-powered.</p> - -<p>In 1893 another car made its appearance in America. This -car was built by Edward T. Haynes and was the beginning -of the present-day Haynes’ line of famous cars.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page3">[3]</span></p> - -<p>The first automobile club was organized in Paris, France, -in the year 1894 with the Marquis de Dion as president. -The purpose of this club was to secure a reformation of the -laws that had been enacted when the automobile made its first -appearance on the public thorough-fare, and to make laws -and rules to govern automobile racing.</p> - -<p>At that time it was necessary when driving on a public -highway to have some one run seventy-five feet in advance -of a car waving a red flag, and to shout a warning at street -intersections. These stringent laws, however, were repealed by -the government through influential aid brought to bear on it -by the automobile club assisted by the rapid progress of the -automobile industry.</p> - -<h3>PURCHASING A NEW CAR<br> -<span class="smcap">Things to be Considered to Make the Investment Safe</span></h3> - -<p>When you are going to buy a new car go about it in this -manner and protect your investment.</p> - -<p>First.—Choose the car that suits you best in regard to -cost, operation, and appearance.</p> - -<p>Second.—Inquire as to the financial status of the manufacturer. -If there is anything wrong with the car, or the -management of the company, it will show up here.</p> - -<p>Third.—Orphaned cars may run as well and give as good -service as anybody could ask for, but when a company fails -or discontinues to manufacture a model, the car immediately -loses from one-third to one-half of its actual value. That is, -providing you wish to trade it in or sell it as a used car.</p> - -<p>Fourth.—What kind of service does the agency in your -vicinity give? Do they take any interest in the cars they sell -after they are in the hands of the purchaser?</p> - -<p>Fifth.—The amount of interest taken in your purchase by -the agent or service station usually determines the amount of -depreciation at the end of the season.</p> - -<p>Sixth.—If you are purchasing your first car some little adjustments -will be required, and conditions will arise that require<span class="pagenum" id="Page4">[4]</span> -understanding and attention. You, therefore, must acquire -either a functional and mechanical knowledge of the -operation, or depend on the agent or service station for help.</p> - -<p>Seventh.—You will probably say that you can get along -without such help. You probably can, but what will be the -results? Will you be required to stand a loss in the long run -resulting from excessive repair bills and depreciation which -could have been prevented to a great extent?</p> - -<p>Eighth.—Remember that an agent can fool you when you -are buying, but that you cannot fool him if you wish to sell -or trade in.</p> - -<p>Ninth.—Remember that this book, <i>The Automobile Owners’ -Guide</i>, was written to assist you in just such cases as we have -presented, and that by spending a little time in study you -can acquire a working knowledge of your car, and become -independent of the service station and the agent, which will -result in a big saving in both repair bills and depreciation.</p> - -<h3>PURCHASING A USED CAR<br> -<span class="smcap">How to Estimate Its Value</span></h3> - -<p>The question is often asked, Does it pay to invest money -in a second-hand car? The answer may be either yes or no, -and depends entirely upon the condition of the car.</p> - -<p>For example, A and B purchase a new car at the same -time. A is rather conservative. He is also a careful driver -and gives his car the best of attention. B is a careless driver -and pays little or no attention to adjustments and lubrication.</p> - -<p>A has seen to proper lubrication and has kept the parts -properly adjusted and tightened up, and his careful driving -has kept the alignment in perfect condition. His car at the -end of the first season requires a little overhauling which will -put it in as good condition as it was when it was new as far -as service is concerned, and it is worth 85 to 90 per cent of -its original value.</p> - -<p>B has not seen to proper lubrication and has allowed his<span class="pagenum" id="Page5">[5]</span> -motor to overheat. The cylinders and pistons are scored and -worn, and the valves are warped and do not seat properly. -He drove into deep ruts and chuck-holes, and bumped into -curbs and posts while turning around. His axles and wheels -are out of line; the frame and all the running parts which -it supports are out of alignment. Overhauling will not put -this car in A-1 condition, and it is not worth more than 30 -per cent. of the original cost price. It would be a poor investment -at any price to an owner who is buying it for his -own use.</p> - -<p><b>Selecting and Testing a Used Car.</b>—First.—If you are buying -from a dealer who trades in cars, judge his statement of -the condition of a car according to his ability as a mechanic -and according to his reputation for accuracy. If you are -buying from a reputable used car dealer his word can usually -be taken as a correct statement of conditions as his business -depends upon the accuracy of his statements and he knows -the condition of a car before he buys it.</p> - -<p>Second.—See the former owner. Get his statement of the -condition of the car and the care it has had, and judge it -by his appearance, and the general appearance of his home -and property.</p> - -<p>Third.—If the car is listed as <i>Rebuilt</i> or <i>Overhauled</i>, see -if the oil-pan, differential, and transmission covers have been -removed. If this has been done the old grease will either -have been cleaned off or show marks of the removal. If these -marks are found the proper adjustments and replacements -have probably been made.</p> - -<p>Fourth.—Don’t judge the mechanical condition of a car by -its outward appearance.</p> - -<p>Fifth.—Examine the tires and figure the cost of replacement -if any are found in poor condition.</p> - -<p>Sixth.—Jack up the front axle and test the wheels for -loose or worn bearings.</p> - -<p>Seventh.—Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and -wiggle it to determine whether the spindle bolts or steering -device connections are worn.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page6">[6]</span></p> - -<p>Eighth.—Jack up the rear axle, set the gear shift-lever -into high-speed, move the wheel in and out from the bottom -to discover worn bearings, and move the wheel, forward and -backward, to determine the amount of back-lash in the differential -and universal joints.</p> - -<p>Ninth.—Test the compression of the cylinders while the engine -is cold using the hand crank. If one cylinder is found -weak, a leak exists and the escaping compression can be -heard.</p> - -<p>Tenth.—Run the motor until it is warm. If any weakness -in compression is noticeable the cylinders are probably scored, -or the rings may be worn. The valves may also be warped, -thereby preventing them from seating properly.</p> - -<p>Eleventh.—Examine the shoulders of the cross-members -supporting the engine, radiator, or transmission to see if -they are cracked or broken.</p> - -<p>Twelfth.—The battery may have deteriorated through improper -attention. Test the solution with a hydrometer. If -it is found well up, it can be passed as O. K.</p> - -<p>Thirteenth.—Don’t judge the condition of the car by the -model, as a two or three-year-old model may be in better -mechanical condition than a six-month or year-old model.</p> - -<h3>DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS</h3> - -<p>A new driver should remain cool and take things in a -natural way as a matter of course. There is nothing to get -nervous or excited about when learning to drive a car. Any -one can master the art of driving quickly by remaining cool -and optimistic.</p> - -<p>First.—Acquire some definite knowledge of the operation of -the engine and its accompanying devices.</p> - -<p>Second.—Have some one explain the operation of the -accelerator, spark, and throttle levers.</p> - -<p>Third.—Study the relative action of the clutch and gear-shifting -pedal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page7">[7]</span></p> - -<p>Fourth.—The new driver takes the wheel and assumes a -natural and calm position with the muscles relaxed.</p> - -<p>Fifth.—He adjusts the motor control levers. The throttle -lever is advanced one-fourth its sliding distance on the quadrant. -The spark lever is set to one-half the sliding distance -on the quadrant.</p> - -<p>Sixth.—Push the ignition-switch button, IN, or ON, and -press the starter button, letting it up as soon as the engine -begins to fire.</p> - -<p>Seventh.—Not all gear-shifts are marked, consequently it -is a good idea to let the new driver feel out the different -speed changes. This is accomplished by pushing out the -clutch and placing the shift-lever into one of the four slots. -Now let up the clutch pedal until it starts to move the car, -continue the feeling-out process until the reverse speed gear -is located, and at this point impress on him that first and -reverse speeds, are always opposite each other, lengthwise -either on the right or left side of neutral, while second speed -is always crosswise opposite reverse, and high-speed is opposite -first on the other side of neutral.</p> - -<p>Eighth.—Starting the car with engine running, advance the -spark-lever three-fourths the distance on the quadrant, advance -the throttle until the engine is turning over nicely -(not racing). Place one hand on the steering-wheel and with -the other grasp the gear-shift-lever, push in the clutch pedal, -hold it for five seconds, in order that the clutch brake may -stop rotation. Place the shift-lever into the first-speed slot -and let up on the clutch pedal. The car should be driven -four or five hundred feet on this speed until the driver acquires -the “nack” of steering.</p> - -<p>Ninth.—To shift to second speed advance the gas throttle -until the car gathers a smooth rolling motion, press in the -clutch pedal and allow three to five seconds for the brake to -retard the speed of the clutch, then shift the lever to second -speed and release the clutch pedal easily.</p> - -<p>Tenth.—To shift into high-speed retard the throttle lever -a trifle (to prevent the engine from racing), throw out the<span class="pagenum" id="Page8">[8]</span> -clutch and shift the lever into the high-speed slot. Perform -these operations slowly but without hesitation.</p> - -<p>Eleventh.—To shift to reverse speed go through the same -operation that you followed when first was used, except that -the shift-lever is placed in the reverse slot.</p> - -<p>Twelfth.—The reverse speed-gear is never engaged unless -the car is at a “stand-still,” as this gear turns in an opposite -direction.</p> - -<p>Thirteenth.—Always test the emergency brake lever and the -speed shift-lever, to be sure that they are in a neutral position -before starting the engine.</p> - -<p>Fourteenth.—Remember that in case of emergency the car -can be stopped quickly by pushing in both foot-pedals. Pressure -on the clutch pedal disconnects the engine from the car, -while pressure on the “foot” or service brake pedal, slows up -the motion of the car and will bring it quickly to a stand-still.</p> - -<p>Fifteenth.—Always push the clutch out when using the -service brake to check the rolling motion of the car.</p> - -<p>Sixteenth.—When you wish to stop the car and motor kick -out the clutch and hold it in this position while you stop the -rolling motion of the car with the service brake and shift -the gears to neutral. Then set the emergency brake and turn -off the switch to stop the motor.</p> - -<p>If the engine cannot take the car up a steep grade in low -speed (due to defective motor or gravity fuel feed) stop, engage -reverse speed, turn off the ignition switch, and let the -car back down to level or a place where you can turn around, -and back up the hill. The reverse speed is geared from one -and a half to two times lower than first speed.</p> - -<p>Nineteen.—To stop the back wheels from skidding turn the -front wheels in the direction which the back wheels are sliding -and release the brakes. Turning away or applying the -brakes adds momentum to the sliding motion.</p> - -<p>Twenty.—If for any reason you must or cannot avoid driving -into the ditch unless the ditch is very shallow, turn the -car directly toward the opposite bank. The front or rear<span class="pagenum" id="Page9">[9]</span> -springs will lodge in the bank and prevent the car from -rolling over and crushing the occupants, and the car can be -drawn out more easily from this position.</p> - -<h3>ROAD RULES FOR CITY AND COUNTRY</h3> - -<p> 1.—Be courteous to all whom you meet and give your assistance -if necessary.</p> - -<p> 2.—When encountering a bad stretch of road, with the -track on your side, don’t drive in and force another machine -coming towards you to get out of the track. WAIT.</p> - -<p> 3.—Never block a track. In case you wish to stop and -talk to some one, drive to one side.</p> - -<p> 4.—Keep on the right hand side of the road at all times, -whether moving or standing, except as prescribed in Paragraph -5.</p> - -<p> 5.—In passing vehicles traveling in the same direction, -always pass on the left and blow the horn.</p> - -<p> 6.—In passing a vehicle that has just stopped, slow down -and sound the horn.</p> - -<p> 7.—In changing your direction, or stopping, always give the -appropriate hand signal.</p> - -<p> 8.—Hand signals, straight up or up on 45° angle, STOP. -Straight out or horizontal, TURNING TO THE LEFT. -Down at an angle of 45°, TURNING TO THE RIGHT.</p> - -<p> 9.—The distance between vehicles outside of towns and -cities, 20 yards; between vehicles passing through towns and -cities, 5 yards; between vehicles halted at the curb, 2 yards.</p> - -<p>10.—Bring all vehicles under easy control at street and road -intersections.</p> - -<p>11.—A maximum driving speed should not exceed 7 miles -in business sections of cities, 15 miles in residential sections, -25 miles on country roads.</p> - -<p>12.—Form the habit of slowing down and looking both ways -before crossing tracks.</p> - -<p>13.—Always pass a street car on the right side.</p> - -<p>14.—Always stop 8 feet from a street car when passengers<span class="pagenum" id="Page10">[10]</span> -are getting off, unless there is a safety zone, then -drive slowly.</p> - -<p>15.—Never drive over the side-walk line while waiting for -signal of traffic officer.</p> - -<p>16.—Notify traffic officer which way you wish to turn -with hand signal.</p> - -<p>17.—Always stop and wait for an opening when driving -from a side street or road into a main thoroughfare.</p> - -<p>18.—Make square turns at all street corners unless otherwise -directed by traffic officer.</p> - -<p>19.—If you wish to turn from one street into another wait -until the traffic officer gives the straight ahead signal, then -give the appropriate signal to those in the rear.</p> - -<p>20.—Always drive near the curb when you wish to turn to -the right, and to the right of the center line of the street -when you wish to turn to the left.</p> - -<p>21.—Drive straight ahead at 42nd St. and 5th Ave., N. Y., -and at Market and Broad St., Newark, N. J. These corners -handle more traffic than any two corners in the United States. -No turns are made at either corner.</p> - -<p>22.—Exercise care not to injure road ways.</p> - -<p>23.—Do not damage improved roads by the use of chains -when unnecessary.</p> - -<p>24.—In case the car is not provided with chains, rope -wrapped around the tires will make a good substitute.</p> - -<p>25.—In case of fire, do not try to put it out with water as -the gasoline will only float and spread the fire. Use a fire -extinguisher or smother with sand or with a blanket.</p> - -<h3>WHAT TO DO IN CASE OF ACCIDENT</h3> - -<p>1.—In case of injury to person or property stop car and -render such assistance as may be needed.</p> - -<p>2.—Secure the name of person injured or of owners of -said property.</p> - -<p>3.—Secure names and addresses of witnesses to the accident.</p> - -<p>4.—Draw diagram of streets as shown in <a href="#FigA">Fig. A</a>. Show<span class="pagenum" id="Page11">[11]</span> -relative positions of the colliding vehicles and the object of -pedestrian just before the accident.</p> - -<div class="container w30emmax" id="FigA"> - -<img src="images/illo033.png" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. A. Street Intersection</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>5.—Label streets and every object depicted and add measurements -and line showing course followed by vehicles, etc., -and any explanatory statements which would aid an understanding -of the occurrence.</p> - -<p>6.—File this report at police headquarters.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page12">[12]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER I</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, AND PARTS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>We will use for purposes of illustration the common four-cylinder, -four cycle, cast en bloc, “L”-head type of motor, as -this type is used probably by 90% of the automobile manufacturers. -The block of this type of motor is cast with an -overlapping shoulder at the upper left hand side which contains -a compartment adjoining the combustion chamber in -which the intake and exhaust valves seat, and the casting is -made, in the shape of the Capital letter L turned upside down. -This arrangement allows both valves to seat in one chamber -and to operate from one cam shaft.</p> - -<p>The operation of each cylinder is identically the same -whether you have a one or a many cylindered motor, consequently -when you have gained a working knowledge of one -cylinder, others are a mere addition. This may sound confusing -when the eight or twelve cylindered motor is mentioned, -but is more readily understood when we consider the -fact that an eight or twelve cylindered motor is nothing more -than two fours or two sixes, set to a single crank-case or base -in V-shape to allow the connecting rods of each motor to -operate on a single crank shaft. This arrangement also allows -all the valves to operate from a single cam shaft, thereby -making the motor very rigid and compact, which is an absolute -necessity considering the small space that is allowed for -the motor in our present-day designs.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig1">Fig. 1</a>. The casting or block, which is the foundation of the -whole motor or engine, usually has a removable head which -allows for easy access to the pistons and valves. The block -is cast with a passage or compartment through the head<span class="pagenum" id="Page13">[13]</span> -and around the cylinders through which water circulates for -cooling the adjoining surfaces of the cylinders. This alleviates -the danger from expansion and contraction caused by -the tremendous heat generated in and about the combustion -chambers. This block also contains the cylinders and valve -seats. The pistons and valves are fitted to their respective -positions as construction progresses.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig1"> - -<img src="images/illo035a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">Det. Head</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Exhaust Pt.<br> -Intake Pt.<br> -Re. Plate</td> -<td class="right">Cyl. Block</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">Upper Crankcase</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">Lower Crankcase</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 1. Typical Four-cylinder Block</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig2">Fig. 2</a>. The block with head removed shows the smooth -flush surface of the block face and the location of the cylinders -in which the pistons operate or slide, with each power -impulse or explosion. When the piston is at its upper extreme -it comes within a sixteenth of an inch of being flush -with the top of the block, while the valves (also shown in -Fig. 2) rest on ground-in seats, in their respective chambers, -and are operated by a stem which extends downward from -the head through a guide bushing in the block to the cam -shaft.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig2"> - -<img src="images/illo035b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w08emmax"> - -<p class="right">Pistons<br> -Water Vents<br> -Intake Valve<br> -Exhaust Valve</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 2. Cylinder Block With Head Removed</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page14">[14]</span></p> - -<p>The location of the water vents is also shown, through -which water is circulated to prevent the cylinders from overheating -which would cause the pistons to “stick” from expansion.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig3">Fig. 3</a>. The top or head of the motor is removed, exposing -the combustion chambers. These chambers must be absolutely -air-tight as the charge of gas drawn in through the -inlet valve is compressed here before the explosion takes place, -and low compression means a weak explosion, which causes -the motor to run with an uneven-jumpy motion, and with -an apparent great loss of power. A copper fiber insert gasket -is placed between the top of the block and the head before it -is bolted down. This gasket prevents any of the compression -from escaping through unevenness of the contact surfaces, as -metal surfaces are prone to warp when exposed to intense heat. -It is necessary to turn the bolts in the head down occasionally, -as the heat causes expansion. The following contraction, -which loosens them, results in a loss of compression and a -faulty operation of the motor.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig3"> - -<img src="images/illo036.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w12emmax"> - -<p class="right">Combustion Chamber<br> -Spark Plug Vent<br> -Water Circulating Vent<br> -Bolt Holes</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 3. Removable Cylinder Head (Reversed)</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The spark-plug vents through the head are usually located -directly over the piston although in some cases they are over -the valve head and in some motors which are cast without a -removable head they may be at one side of the combustion -chamber. The location of the spark-plug does not materially -affect the force of the explosion, although when it is located -directly over the piston a longer plug may be used, as the -pistons do not come up flush with the top of the block, -and a spark-plug extended well into the combustion chamber -will not become corroded with carbon or burnt oil as is usually<span class="pagenum" id="Page15">[15]</span> -the case with a plug which does not extend beyond the upper -wall surface of the combustion chamber.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig4">Fig. 4</a>. The plunger or piston is turned down to fit snugly -within the cylinder and is cast hollow, with two shoulders extending -from the inside wall.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig4"> - -<img src="images/illo037a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" style="width: 33.3%;"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left top">Head<br> -Ring<br> -Wrist Pin<br> -Oil Ring</td> -<td class="left top">Ring Groove<br> -Bushing<br> -Wrist Pin<br> -Set Screw<br> -Ring Groove</td> -<td class="left top">Set Screw<br> -Bushing<br> -Wrist Pin</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 4. Typical Cylinder Piston</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig4">Fig. 4A</a> shows a split piston. Three grooves are cut into it -near the head to receive the piston rings. The width and -depth of these grooves vary according to the size of the piston. -A hole is bored through the piston and shoulders about half -way from each end. The bushing or plain bearing shown in -<a href="#Fig4">Fig. 4B</a> is pressed into this hole and forms a bearing for the -wrist pin also shown in <a href="#Fig4">Fig. 4B</a>. Wrist pins are usually made -of a much softer metal than the bearing, and are subjected to -severe duty, which often causes them to wear and produce a -sharp knock; this may be remedied by pressing out the pin, -giving it a quarter turn, and replacing it in that position.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig5"> - -<img src="images/illo037b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 5. Typical Piston Ring</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig5">Fig. 5</a> shows a split joint piston ring. Piston rings are -usually made from a high grade gray iron, which fits into -the grooves in the piston and springs out against the cylinder -walls, thereby preventing the compressed charge of gas from -escaping down the cylinder, between the wall and the piston.<span class="pagenum" id="Page16">[16]</span> -<a href="#Fig5">Fig. 5A</a> shows a piston equipped with leak-proof rings; this -type of piston ring has overlapping joints, and gives excellent -service, especially when used on a motor which has seen -considerable service. <a href="#Fig5">Fig. 5B</a> illustrates how piston rings -may line up, or become worn from long use, or from faulty -lubrication. This trouble may be easily detected by turning -the motor over slowly. The escaping charge can usually be -heard and the strength required to turn the motor will be -found much less uniform on the defective cylinder.</p> - -<p>The motor should be overhauled at least once every year, -and by applying new rings to the pistons at this time new -life and snappiness may be perceived at once.</p> - -<p>The connecting rod shown in <a href="#Fig6">Fig. 6</a> has a detachable or split -bearing on the large end, and takes its bearing on the crank -pin of the crank shaft. The small or upper end may have -either a hinge joint or press fit to the wrist pin. This rod -serves as a connection and delivers the power stroke from the -piston to the crank shaft. These rods are required to stand -very hard jars caused by the explosion taking place over the -piston head. The bearings are provided with shims between -the upper and lower half for adjusting. Piston or connecting -rod bearings must be kept perfectly adjusted to prevent -the bearings from cracking or splitting which will cause the -rod to break and which may cause considerable damage to the -crank case.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig6"> - -<img src="images/illo038.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w35emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" style="width: 33.3%;"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left bot">Wrist Pin Bearing</td> -<td class="center">Upper Half<br>Crank Pin Bearing</td> -<td class="center">Lower Half<br>Bearing End Overlaps</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Shims</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Bolts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center"><span class="padr4">Bushing</span>Rod</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Shims</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 6. Typical Connecting Rod</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig7">Fig. 7</a> shows a counter balanced crank shaft. This type<span class="pagenum" id="Page17">[17]</span> -of crank-shaft is provided with weights which balance the -shaft and carry the momentum gathered in the revolution.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig7"> - -<img src="images/illo039a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w40emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w25pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left top">Rear Main Bearing</td> -<td class="center bot">Weight</td> -<td class="center">Center<br>Main Bearing</td> -<td class="center bot">Front Main Bearing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Fly Wheel<br>Attached to<br>this Ring</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Timing Gear<br>Attached<br>Here</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Crank Pin</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">Crank Pins</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 7. Counter-Balanced Crank Shaft</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w55emmax" id="Fig8"> - -<img src="images/illo039b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w08emmax"> -<p class="noindent">Main Bearings</p> -</div> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 8. 5-M-B Crank Shaft</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig8">Fig. 8</a> shows the plain type of crank shaft with the timing -gear attached to the front end and the fly-wheel attached to -the rear end. The crank shaft shown is carried or held by five -main bearings, which is an exception, as the majority of motor -manufacturers use only three main bearings to support the -crank shaft, while in some of the smaller motors only two are<span class="pagenum" id="Page18">[18]</span> -used. These bearings are always of the split type, the seat -for the upper half is cast into the upper part of the crank-case, -and the lower half is usually attached to the upper half -by four bolts which pass through the flange at each side of -the bearing. Small shims of different sizes are employed between -the flanges of each half of the bearing in order to secure -a perfect adjustment which is very essential, as these -bearings are subjected to heavy strains and severe duty. A -shim may be removed occasionally as the bearing begins to -show wear. A worn main bearing can be detected by placing -the metal end of a screw-driver or hammer on the crank-case -opposite the bearing and the other end to the ear. If the -bearing is loose or worn a dull bump or thud will be heard. -This looseness should be taken up by removing a shim of the -proper thickness.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig9"> - -<img src="images/illo040.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Cam Gear</td> -<td>Bearings</td> -<td>Cams</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Cams</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 9. Cam Shaft</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Main bearings run loose for any length of time will be -found very hard to adjust as the jar which they are subjected -to invariably pounds them off center which makes readjustment -a very difficult task to accomplish with lasting effect. -New main bearings in a motor should always be scraped to -secure a perfect fit. A loose piston or connecting rod bearing -will produce a sharp knock which can easily be determined -from the dull thud produced by a loose main bearing. (<a href="#Fig9">Fig. -9</a>.) The cam shaft revolves on bearings and is usually located -at the base of the cylinders on the left hand side looking toward -the radiator and carries a set of cams for each cylinder. -The cam pushes the valve open, and holds it in this position,<span class="pagenum" id="Page19">[19]</span> -while the piston travels the required number of degrees of the -cycle or stroke.</p> - -<p>The cam shaft is driven from the crank shaft usually -through a set of timing gears, and operated at one-half the -speed of the crank shaft in a four cycle motor, as a valve is -only lifted once, while the crank shaft makes two revolutions -or four strokes. The cam-shaft bearings, and the timing gears -are usually self-lubricating and require very little attention. -Timing of the cam shaft is a rather difficult matter and will -be treated in a following <a href="#Page21">chapter</a> under the head of valve -timing.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig10"> - -<img src="images/illo041.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w40pc"> -<col class="w60pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Start Gear</td> -<td class="center">Key-Seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">Shaft-Seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center bot">Cone Clutch<br>Seat</td> -<td class="right top">Disc Clutch<br>Small Disc<br>Bolt on Here</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 10. Flywheel</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The oil pan or reservoir forms the lower half or base of the -crank case. The lubricating oil is carried here at a level which -will allow the piston rods to dip into it at each revolution of -the crank shaft. The timing gears receive their lubrication -from the supply carried in the reservoir by means of a plunger -or piston pump which is operated from the cam shaft. The -balance of the motor is usually lubricated by a splash system -taken up in a later <a href="#Ref01">chapter</a> on lubrication. The oil is carried -at a level between two points marked, high and low, on a glass -or float gauge which is located on the crank case. A gasket -made of paper or fiber is used between the union or connection -of the oil reservoir and the upper half of the crank<span class="pagenum" id="Page20">[20]</span> -case to prevent the oil from working out through the connection.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig10">Fig. 10</a> represents the flywheel. The flywheel is usually -keyed to the crank shaft directly behind the rear main bearing. -This wheel is proportionate in weight to the revolving speed -of the motor, which it keeps in balance by gathering the force -of the power stroke. The momentum gathered by it in this -stroke carries the pistons through the three succeeding strokes -called the exhaust, intake, and compression strokes. The flywheel -also serves as a connection between the power-plant and -the running gear of the car, as a part of the clutch is located -on it, and the connection takes place either in the rim or on -the flange.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page21">[21]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER II</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">VALVE CONSTRUCTION, TYPES, AND OPERATION</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The proper and accurate functional operation of the valves -is as necessary to successful motor operation as the proper -adjustment of a hairspring is to a watch, for if a hairspring -becomes impaired in any way, a watch will not keep -correct time. This is the case in a motor when a valve becomes -impaired. The valves in a motor, therefore, must be -considered the most vital part conducive to successful and -economical operation of the motor.</p> - -<p>The valves are manufactured from a high grade tungsten -or carbon steel, and are designed to withstand the intense -heat which the heads located in the combustion chambers -are subjected to, without warping. A perfect seat is required -to prevent leaking, which will cause low compression and a -weak power impulse, thus reducing the power and harmony -of successful operation.</p> - -<p>The poppet valve is used by about ninety-five per cent. of -motor manufacturers. This type of valve is mechanically -operated from the cam shaft at one-half the crank shaft -speed, as a valve is lifted only once in every four strokes, -or two revolutions of the crank shaft. The reduction in -speed is accomplished by using a gear on the cam shaft, -twice the size of that on the crank shaft.</p> - -<p>The heads and chambers must be kept free from carbon -which forms and bakes into a shale and has a tendency to -crack and chip as the temperature changes in the combustion -chambers. These chips are blown about in the -cylinders until they lodge or are trapped by the descending -valves. It then forms a pit on the seat and prevents the<span class="pagenum" id="Page22">[22]</span> -valves from seating properly. This leaves an open space -which attracts more carbon, and the entire functional action -of the valve is soon impaired, necessitating regrinding in order -that it may properly seat again.</p> - -<p>Carbon is generated from a poor gas mixture or from -excessive use of lubricating oil and may be considered the -chief cause of improper functional action of the valves.</p> - -<h3>VALVE CONSTRUCTION, TYPES, AND OPERATION -8-CYLINDERED V-TYPE ENGINE</h3> - -<div class="container w50emmax" id="Fig11"> - -<img src="images/illo044.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30em"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w15pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left top">Valve Head</td> -<td class="right"> <br>Removable Plates</td> -<td class="left top">Cam Shaft</td> -<td class="right top">Valve Head</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Valve Seat</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Valve Seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Tappet for<br>Adjusting Valves</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Tappet for<br>Adjusting Valves</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 11. 8-Cylinder Valve Arrangement</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig11">Fig. 11</a> shows the location of the cam shaft, valves, and -tappet adjustment, on a V-shaped engine. The cylinders -of this type of engine are arranged in two blocks, consisting -of four cylinders in each, set directly opposite each other -on an angle of 90°. The connecting rods from opposite<span class="pagenum" id="Page23">[23]</span> -cylinders are yoked and take their bearing on the same crank -pin. This arrangement allows the intake and exhaust valves -of each opposite cylinder to operate from a single cam shaft, -or in other words the entire sixteen valves are operated by -a single cam shaft carrying eight cams. Consequently an -eight or twelve cylindered engine is identical in regard to -valve timing to either a four or six cylindered engine.</p> - -<div class="container w30emmax" id="Fig12"> - -<img src="images/illo045.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w08emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">Valve Head</p> - -<p class="noindent">Valve Seat</p> - -<p class="noindent">Valve Guide</p> - -<p class="noindent">Valve Stem</p> - -<p class="noindent">Valve Spring</p> - -<p class="noindent">Sp. Seat</p> - -<p class="noindent">Cap Screw</p> - -<p class="noindent">Tappet</p> - -<p class="noindent">Lock Nut</p> - -<p class="noindent">Guide Bushing</p> - -<p class="noindent">Push Block</p> - -<p class="noindent">Roller</p> - -<p class="noindent">Cam</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 12. Poppet Valve</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig12">Fig. 12</a> shows a poppet valve. This type of valve has -only one adjustment, called the tappet. The adjustment is -made by turning the cap-screw out of the push block until -the head comes into contact with the valve stem. The lock -nut on the cap screw is then turned down tightly to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page24">[24]</span> -push block to hold the adjustment. A strong spring is placed -on the valve stem which causes it to close quickly and remain -closed until it comes into contact with the cam.</p> - -<p>Valves are set and operate in three different positions as -shown in <a href="#Fig13">Fig. 13</a>. The exhaust valve in this case seats on -the floor of the combustion chamber and is operated by the -stem which extends through the casting to the tappet, while -the intake valve seats on the upper wall of the combustion -chamber and is operated from over head by a push-rod extending -from the tappet to a rocker-arm. When both valves -are operated from above and seat on the upper wall of the -combustion chamber the motor is referred to as the overhead -valve type of motor. In the majority of motors both -valves seat on the floor of the valve chamber.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig13"> - -<img src="images/illo046.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Rocker Arm</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Valve Stem</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Valve Open</td> -<td class="left">Valve Seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Combustion<br>Chamber</td> -<td class="left bot">Tappets</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Cam</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Cam Shaft</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Overhead<br>Type Valve</td> -<td class="left bot">Push Rod</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Poppet-Type<br>Valve</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 13. Valve Types, Location and Operation</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Valve Timing.</b>—Valve timing is usually accomplished by -setting the first, or exhaust valve cam, to correspond with a -mark on the flywheel and cylinder (shown in <a href="#Fig14">Fig. 14</a>).</p> - -<p>This is accomplished by lining up the <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>, or <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>6</sub> D-C mark on -the flywheel rim with the center mark on the cylinder block, -and means that <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>, or <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>6</sub>, pistons are on upper dead center of -the compression stroke, the flywheel is then turned a trifle -until the marks E-C, or Ex-C, is at upper dead center and in<span class="pagenum" id="Page25">[25]</span> -line with the mark on the cylinder block. This means that -the exhaust valve closes at this point. The cam shaft is then -turned in the running direction and the cam shaft gear meshed -at the valve closing or seating point. This is all that is necessary -as the other cams take up correct operation when any -one cam is set properly.</p> - -<p>Another method of valve timing used by some motor manufacturers -is shown in <a href="#Fig14">Fig. 14</a>. It is simply necessary in -this case to line up the prick punch marks on the timing gears—after -getting the first position on upper D-C of the compression -stroke—to acquire correct valve time. No definite or -average scale can be given for valve timing, as all different -types of motors are timed differently. These instructions must -be secured from the manufacturer when the motor is not -marked.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig14"> - -<img src="images/illo047.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w35emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w25pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="center bot">Cylinder Marks</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center top">Camshaft<br>Gear</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">1-4 Pistons<br>on Upper<br>Dead Center</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">FLY-WHEEL MARKS</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Running Direction of<br>Fly Wheel</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center top">MARKS LINED UP<br>Timing Gear<br>Punch Marks</td> -<td class="center bot">Crankshaft<br>Gear</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 14. Valve Timing Marks</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p id="Ref05"><b>Valve Grinding.</b>—A valve-grinding compound can be purchased -at any garage or service station or one may be compounded -by mixing emery dust with a heavy lubricating oil -until a thin paste is formed. The valve spring is released -next by forcing up the tension with a screw driver or valve -lifter. A small H-shaped washer is drawn from a groove -near the end of the stem, which frees the valve; it can then -be pushed up and raised through the guide. A small spring<span class="pagenum" id="Page26">[26]</span> -is placed over the valve stem. This spring should be strong -enough to raise the valve one-half inch above the seat. A -thin film of the grinding compound is evenly applied to the -seating face of the valve head, a screw driver or ratchet fork -is set in the groove on the head of the valve, and the handle -rolled between the palms of the hands, covering about one-third -of the distance around the valve seat; the valve is let up -after the motion has been repeated four or five times, and repeated -at another angle until the entire surface of the valve -is smoothly ground and allows the valve to seat perfectly.</p> - -<p><b>Valves.</b>—The sleeve valve type of motor was invented -several years ago by Charles A. Knight. He met with some -difficulty in having it manufactured in this country because -the lubrication system was thought to be inadequate and the -poppet valve was then at the height of its popularity with -the manufacturer of engines.</p> - -<p>Knight took his engine to Europe and made some slight -improvements on it. It was then taken over and manufactured -by one of the large automobile manufacturing companies -of that continent and is now being used by many of -the celebrated automobile manufacturers of every country.</p> - -<p>The principle of operation does not differ in any respect -from the ordinary type of four cycle motor, except, that instead -of having the poppet type of valves it has a set of -sleeves which slide up and down on the piston. The sleeves -are operated from an eccentric shaft by a short connecting -rod and carry ports which are timed to line up with the -ports of the intake and exhaust manifold ports at the proper -time in the cycle of operation.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig15">Fig. 15</a> shows the method of timing the sleeves on the -four cylinder engine. First, turn the motor over in the running -direction until the marks (I-4-T-C) on the flywheel are -in alignment with the marks on the cylinder casting. Turn -the eccentric shaft in the running direction until the marks -A, B, C, shown in <a href="#Fig15">Fig. 15</a> are lined up, and then apply -the chain.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page27">[27]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40emmax" id="Fig15"> - -<img src="images/illo049.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20em"> - -<p class="noindent padl2">Timer<br>Shaft<br>Sprocket</p> - -<p class="center">Crank Shaft Sprocket</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 15. Knight Valve-Timing Marks—4-Cylinder</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>To check up on the timing, back the flywheel up an inch -or two and insert a thin piece of tissue paper into the exhaust -port and turn the engine in the running direction until the -paper is pinched, which signifies that the valve is closed. -The marks on the flywheel, timing gears, and the crank case -should be in alignment. <a href="#Fig16">Fig. 16</a> shows a diagram of the -timing marks on the eight cylinder Knight engine. The -method of timing this engine is as follows: (1) Turn the -engine over until the marks I-4-R-H—D-C align with the -marks on the crank case. (2) Turn the eccentric shaft and<span class="pagenum" id="Page28">[28]</span> -sprocket until the arrows shown in <a href="#Fig16">Fig. 16</a> are in line with -the guide marks on the front end of the chain housing. Then -put on the chain and check up the timing, using the thin -piece of tissue paper.</p> - -<div class="container w40emmax" id="Fig16"> - -<img src="images/illo050.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w08em"> - -<p class="noindent">Eccentric Shaft<br> -Sprocket Hub</p> - -<p class="noindent">Mark on<br> -Eccentric Shaft<br> -Sprocket</p> - -<p class="noindent">Guide Mark on<br> -Crank Case</p> - -<p class="noindent">Crank Shaft<br> -Sprocket</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 16. Knight Valve-Timing Marks—8-Cylinder</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h3>VALVE CONSTRUCTION</h3> - -<p>If the sleeve rods are removed for some reason, the bearings -should be fitted very loosely to the eccentric shaft when -they are put back. A looseness of about .008 of an inch is -permissible.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page29">[29]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER III</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE OPERATION OF A 4-CYCLE, 4-CYLINDERED ENGINE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The four-cycle or Otto stroke type of gasoline engine should -rightly be called the four-stroke-cycle engine, as it requires -four strokes and two revolutions of the crank shaft to complete -one cycle of operation.</p> - -<p>This type of motor is used almost universally by the manufacturers -of pleasure cars due to its reliability, and to the -ability it has to furnish continuous power at all speeds with -the minimum amount of vibration.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig17"> - -<img src="images/illo051.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="center w25pc">Firing<br>Stroke</td> -<td class="center w25pc">Exhaust<br>Stroke</td> -<td class="center w25pc">Intake<br>Stroke</td> -<td class="center">Compression<br>Stroke</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">1</td> -<td class="center">2</td> -<td class="center">3</td> -<td class="center">4</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 17. 4-Stroke Cycle. 1—Cylinder in Action</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig17">Fig. 17</a> shows a diagram of one cylinder in the four strokes -of the cycle, and the distance traveled by the crank shaft during -each stroke. No. 1 begins with a charge of compressed -vapor gas in the cylinder and is called the firing or power<span class="pagenum" id="Page30">[30]</span> -stroke. The ignition system (explained in a later chapter) -furnishes a spark at from five to fifteen degrees early or before -the piston reaches top dead center. Although the stroke -theoretically starts before the piston reaches its highest point -of ascent, the actual pressure or force of the explosion is not -exerted until the piston has crossed dead center. This is due -to the fact that the piston travels very rapidly, and that it -requires a small fraction of a second for spark to ignite the -compressed charge of gas. It may, therefore, be easily seen -that, if the spark did not occur until the piston is on or has -crossed dead center, the piston would have traveled part of the -distance of the stroke, and as it is moving away from the highest -point of compression the pressure is reduced by allowing -more volume space which causes a weak explosion and a short -power stroke. The intake and exhaust valves are closed -through the duration of the power stroke.</p> - -<p>No. 2. The exhaust stroke begins from fifteen to thirty degrees -early, or before the piston reaches lower dead center on -the firing stroke. The exhaust valve opens at the start of this -stroke allowing the pressure of the burnt or inert gas to escape -before the piston begins to ascend on the upward part of the -stroke, and closes seven to ten degrees late to allow the combustion -chamber to clear out before the next stroke begins.</p> - -<p>No. 3. The intake or suction stroke begins with the piston -descending from its highest level to its lowest level. The intake -valve opens ten or twenty degrees late, and as the piston -is traveling on its descent, considerable vacuum pressure has -formed which draws suddenly when the valve opens and starts -the gas from the carburetor in full volume. The entire length -of this stroke creates a vacuum which draws a full charge of -vaporized gas into the cylinder through the open intake valve. -The intake valve closes from ten to twenty degrees late in -order that the full drawing force of the vacuum may be -utilized while the piston is crossing lower center.</p> - -<p>No. 4. The compression stroke begins at the end of the intake -stroke with both valves closed. The piston ascends -from its lowest extreme to its highest level, compressing the<span class="pagenum" id="Page31">[31]</span> -charge of gas which was drawn into the cylinder on the -intake or suction stroke; and at the completion of this stroke -the cylinder is again in position to start No. 1, the firing -stroke, and begin a new cycle of operation. The cam shaft -is driven from the crank shaft through a set of gears or a -silent chain, and operates at one-half the speed of the crank -shaft as a valve is lifted once through the cycle of operation, -or two revolutions of the crankshaft.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig18"> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="center w25pc">1</td> -<td class="center w25pc">2</td> -<td class="center w25pc">3</td> -<td class="center">4</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<img src="images/illo053.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="center w25pc">Firing<br>Val. Closed</td> -<td class="center w25pc">Compressing<br>Val. Closed</td> -<td class="center w25pc">Exhausting<br>Ex. Val. Open</td> -<td class="center w25pc">Intake<br>In. Val. Open</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 18. Diagram of Action, 4-Cylinder 4-Cycle Engine</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig18">Fig. 18</a> shows the operation of a four-cylindered motor as -it would appear if the cylinder block were removed. The -timing or firing order of the motor shown in this diagram -is 1-2-4-3. No. 1 cylinder is always nearest the radiator and -on the left in this diagram. No. 1 cylinder is firing. The intake -and exhaust valve remain closed while this stroke is taking -place. This causes the entire force of the explosion to be exerted -on the head of the receding piston. The cylinders, as -may be seen in the diagram, are timed to fire in succession, -one stroke behind each other. While No. 1 cylinder is on the -firing stroke, No. 2 cylinder is compressing with both valves -closed and will fire and deliver another power impulse as soon -as No. 1 cylinder completes and reaches the lowest extreme -of its firing stroke. No. 3 cylinder, being fourth in the firing -order, has just completed the firing stroke and is starting the -exhaust stroke which forces the burnt and inert gases out of<span class="pagenum" id="Page32">[32]</span> -the cylinder through the open exhaust valve. No. 4 cylinder -which is third in the firing order has just completed the exhaust -stroke and is about to start the intake or suction stroke -with the exhaust valve open. This diagram should be studied -and memorized as it is often necessary to remove the wires -which may easily be replaced if the firing order is known, or -found by watching the action of the exhaust valves and made -to conform with the distributor of the ignition system. (Note -the running direction of the distributor brush and connect the -wires up in that direction.) For the firing order given above -connect No. 4 wire to No. 3 distributor post, and No. 3 wire to -No. 4 post, as this cylinder fires last.</p> - -<div class="container w40emmax" id="Fig19"> - -<img src="images/illo054a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="w30pc">1-CYL.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="w30pc">2-CYL.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<img src="images/illo054b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<tr> -<td class="w30pc">4-CYL.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="w30pc">8-CYL.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 19 Power Stroke Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig19">Fig. 19</a> shows a diagram of the power stroke impulse delivered -to the cycle in a one, two, four, and eight cylindered -motor. A complete cycle consists of 360 degrees, and -as there are four strokes to the cycle an even division would -give a stroke of ninety degrees, which is not the case, however, -owing to the fact that the valves do not open and close -at the theoretical beginning and ending point of each stroke<span class="pagenum" id="Page33">[33]</span> -which is upper dead center and lower dead center. The firing -or power impulse stroke begins at approximately five to seven -degrees before the piston reaches upper dead center on the -compression stroke and ends from fifteen to thirty degrees -before the piston or cycle of rotation of the crankshaft reaches -lower dead center. This results in a power impulse of less -than ninety degrees, which varies accordingly with valve timing -in the different makes of motors. Consequently we have -a power stroke of a little less than ninety degrees in a one-cylinder -motor; two power strokes of a little less than 180 -degrees in a two cylinder motor, while the power impulse of -the four-cylinder motor very nearly completes the cycle. In -the six, eight, and twelve cylinder motor the power strokes -overlap, thereby delivering continuous power of very nearly -equal strength.</p> - -<p><b>Twin, Four, and Six Cylindered Motors.</b>—The operation of -the twin cylindered motor varies very little from the single -four or six. It is simply a case where two, four, or two six -cylindered motors are set to a single crank case at an angle -which will allow the piston or connecting rods from the opposite -cylinders to operate on a single crank shaft. When the -cylinders are set directly opposite each other the connecting -rods are yoked and take their bearing on a single crank pin -of the crank shaft. This, however, is not always the case, for -in some motors the connecting rods take their bearing side -by side on the crank pin. The cylinders in this case are set -to the crank case in a staggered position to allow the connecting -rods from each cylinder to operate in line with the crank -shaft.</p> - -<p>The cylinder blocks are usually set to the crank case at an -angle of ninety degrees and are timed to furnish the power impulse -or stroke opposite each other in the cycle of operation. -The advantage of this formation is that two power strokes are -delivered in one cycle of operation, which increases the power -momentum and reduces the jar or shock of the explosion -causing a sweet running vibrationless motor.</p> - -<p>The valves are usually operated by a single cam shaft located<span class="pagenum" id="Page34">[34]</span> -on the upper inside wall of the crank case. Valve timing -is accomplished by following the marks on the flywheel or -lining up the prick punch marks on the gears, as shown in -<a href="#Page21">Chapter II</a> on valves.</p> - -<p>When a magneto is used to furnish the current for ignition -on an eight cylinder motor it has to be operated at the same -speed as the crank shaft, as a cylinder is fired at each revolution -of the crank shaft and an interruption of the current is -required at the breaker points to produce the secondary or -high tension current at the spark plug gaps.</p> - -<p>Twelve cylindered motors are usually equipped with two -distributors or a dual system, or two magnetos driven separately -through a set of timing gears.</p> - -<p><b>Knight or Sleeve Valve Motor.</b>—The Knight or sleeve valve -motor operates on the same plan as the ordinary type of motor -except that the valves form a sleeve and slide over the piston. -The sleeves are operated by an eccentric shaft and are provided -with ports which are timed to conform with the ports -of the intake and exhaust manifolds at the proper time.</p> - -<p class="tabhead">MOTOR HORSEPOWER<br> -<span class="smcap">S. A. E. Scale</span><br> -<span class="smcapall">FOUR-CYCLE HORSEPOWER RATING</span></p> - -<table class="power"> - -<tr class="bt"> -<th colspan="2" class="br">Bore</th> -<th class="br">1 cyl.</th> -<th class="br">2 cyl.</th> -<th class="br">4 cyl.</th> -<th>6 cyl.</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">2</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 3.00</td> -<td class="center br"> 6.00</td> -<td class="center br">12.00</td> -<td class="center">18.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">2</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 3.00</td> -<td class="center br"> 6.50</td> -<td class="center br">13.00</td> -<td class="center">20.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">3</td> -<td class="frac br">.00</td> -<td class="center br"> 3.50</td> -<td class="center br"> 7.00</td> -<td class="center br">14.50</td> -<td class="center">21.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">3</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 4.00</td> -<td class="center br"> 8.50</td> -<td class="center br">17.00</td> -<td class="center">25.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">3</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 5.00</td> -<td class="center br">10.00</td> -<td class="center br">20.00</td> -<td class="center">29.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">3</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 5.50</td> -<td class="center br">11.00</td> -<td class="center br">22.50</td> -<td class="center">34.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">4</td> -<td class="frac br">.00</td> -<td class="center br"> 6.50</td> -<td class="center br">13.00</td> -<td class="center br">25.50</td> -<td class="center">38.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">4</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 7.00</td> -<td class="center br">14.50</td> -<td class="center br">29.00</td> -<td class="center">43.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">4</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 8.00</td> -<td class="center br">16.00</td> -<td class="center br">32.50</td> -<td class="center">48.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">4</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br"> 9.00</td> -<td class="center br">18.00</td> -<td class="center br">36.00</td> -<td class="center">54.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">5</td> -<td class="frac br">.00</td> -<td class="center br">10.00</td> -<td class="center br">20.00</td> -<td class="center br">40.00</td> -<td class="center">60.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">5</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br">11.00</td> -<td class="center br">22.00</td> -<td class="center br">44.00</td> -<td class="center">66.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">5</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub></td> -<td class="center br">12.00</td> -<td class="center br">24.00</td> -<td class="center br">48.00</td> -<td class="center">73.00</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="int">5</td> -<td class="frac br"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></td> -<td class="center br">13.00</td> -<td class="center br">26.50</td> -<td class="center br">53.00</td> -<td class="center">79.50</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td class="int">6</td> -<td class="frac br">.00</td> -<td class="center br">14.50</td> -<td class="center br">29.00</td> -<td class="center br">57.50</td> -<td class="center">86.50</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<div class="centerblock w20emmax"> - -<p class="fsize90">This scale gives the nearest equivalent to the whole or half -horsepower, as is required by State where licenses are paid at -so much per horsepower.</p> - -</div><!--centerblock--> - -<p class="formula fsize90">Formula—S. A. E. <span class="horsplit"><span class="top">D<sup>2</sup> times N</span> -<span class="bot">2.5</span></span> equals horsepower.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page35">[35]</span></p> - -<p>For sleeve valve timing see <a href="#Page21">Chapter II</a> on Valves.</p> - -<h3>DISPLACEMENT</h3> - -<p>There are probably few men operating cars to-day who fully -understand what is meant by the term displacement, often -used in referring to automobile races. It is one of the main -factors or points in determining the class in which a car is -qualified to enter under the laws that govern races. In looking -over a race program, you will note that there are usually -two or more classes, one of which is open, and another with a -limited piston displacement, which gives the smaller cars a -competing chance in their class.</p> - -<p>Consequently piston displacement is merely the volume displaced -by all the piston in moving the full length of the -stroke. The volume of a single cylinder is equal to the area -of the bore multiplied by the length of the stroke, and the -total displacement of a four cylinder motor will be four times -this and that of a six cylinder motor, six times this.</p> - -<p>Piston displacement:</p> - -<p class="formula"><span class="horsplit"><span class="top">D<sup>2</sup> times S times N times 3.14</span> -<span class="bot">4</span></span></p> - -<table class="floattext"> - -<tr> -<td>Where</td> -<td>D equals bore in inches</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td>S equals stroke in inches</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>Where N equals number of cylinders</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<table class="floattext"> - -<tr> -<td>Example:</td> -<td>Required to find the piston displacement of a -3<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> × 5 inch four-cylindered motor. D equals 3.5 -S equals 5. and N equals 4.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p class="noindent">Piston Displacement</p> - -<p class="padl8 blankbefore05"><span class="horsplit"><span class="top">3.5<sup>2</sup> -times 5 times 4 times 3.14</span> -<span class="bot">4</span></span></p> - -<p class="padl8 blankbefore05"><span class="horsplit"><span class="top">3.5 times -3.5 times 5 times 4 times 3.14</span> -<span class="bot">4</span></span></p> - -<p class="noindent blankbefore05">equals 173.58 cubic inches.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page36">[36]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig20"> - -<img src="images/illo058.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">IGNITION COIL</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">DELCO GENERATOR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">DISTRIBUTOR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CONTROL<br>LEVER</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">PEDALS</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">FAN</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">BRAKE LEVER</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">FAN BELT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">STARTER SLIDING<br>GEAR CASE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">UNIVERSAL<br>HOUSING</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">STARTING<br>CRANK SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">TRANSMISSION<br>END PLATE</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">TIMING GEAR<br>CASE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">TRANSMISSION</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">TIMING GEAR<br>HOUSING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING<br>RETAINER GREASE CUP</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">WATER PUMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">MOTOR ARM</td> -<td class="center">FLY WHEEL<br>HOUSING</td> -<td class="center">LOWER<br>CRANK CASE</td> -<td class="right">DRAIN COCK</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 20. Buick Engine—Parts Assembly</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page37">[37]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig21"> - -<img src="images/illo059.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE KEY</td> -<td class="center">VALVE ROCKER ARM PIN</td> -<td class="center">OIL FILLER<br>WING PLUG</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">VALVE ROCKER ARM</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE SPRING CAP</td> -<td class="center">VALVE ROCKER ARM WICK</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">WATER OUTLET</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE SPRING</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">SPARK PLUG</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="w20pc"> </td> -<td class="center">FAN</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE GAGE</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">VALVE PUSH ROD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">WATER JACKET</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">COMBUSTION SPACE</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">WATER INLET</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">VALVE LIFTER GUIDE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">PISTON PIN</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">PISTON</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">VALVE LIFTER CLAMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">OIL PUMP<br>DRIVING GEAR</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">FAN BRACKET STUD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">FAN BELT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CONNECTING ROD</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CRANK SHAFT</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">TIMING GEARS</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">CONNECTING<br>ROD BEARING</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">FAN PULLEY</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">CAM SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CRANK SHAFT<br>BEARING</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">CAM SHAFT BEARING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">STARTING NUT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">OIL PUMP</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">GEAR COVER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">UPPER CRANK CASE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">FLY WHEEL</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">TIMING GEAR HOUSING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">FLY WHEEL HOUSING</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">CHECK VALVE</td> -<td class="right">WATER PUMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">DRAIN PLUG</td> -<td class="center">OIL DIPPER</td> -<td class="center">SPLASH OIL TROUGH</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">VALVE ROLLER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">LOWER CRANK CASE</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">CRANK CASE OIL PIPE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 21. Buick Engine—Location Inside Parts Assembly</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page38">[38]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40emmax" id="Fig22"> - -<img src="images/illo060.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w25pc"> -<col class="w40pc"> -<col class="w35pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">ROCKER ARM</td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">OIL WICK</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">WING PLUG</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">VALVE STEM</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">ROCKER ARM COVER</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">VALVE SPRING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">ADJUSTING BALL</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="center">VALVE CAGE<br>NUT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">LOCK NUT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">VALVE CAGE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">WATER JACKET</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">VALVE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">SPARK PLUG COVER</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">EXHAUST<br>MANIFOLD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">COMBUSTION<br>SPACE</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">INTAKE<br>MANIFOLD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">PUSH ROD</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">HOT AIR<br>CHAMBER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE PUSH<br>ROD COVER</td> -<td class="right">WRIST PIN</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">CYLINDER</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER CAP</td> -<td class="right">PISTON</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER<br>GUIDE CLAMP</td> -<td rowspan="5" colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER SPRING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER GUIDE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LIFTER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CAM ROLLER PIN</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CAM ROLLER</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" class="center">CONNECTING ROD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CAM SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">CRANK CASE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">CRANK SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 22. Buick Motor—End View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page39">[39]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig23"> - -<img src="images/illo061.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<p class="right">Fan Belt<br> -Adjustment</p> - -<p class="right">Split Collar<br> -with Locking Cup</p> - -<p class="right">Valve Tappet<br> -Adjustment</p> - -<p class="right">Cam Shaft End<br> -Thrust Adjustment</p> - -<p class="noindent">Shims for<br> -Adjustment of<br> -Connecting Rods</p> - -<p class="right">Oil Passage to<br> -Connecting Rod</p> - -<p class="right">Oil Pipe to<br> -Piston Ring</p> - -<p class="noindent">Oil Pump<br> -Filter Screen</p> - -<p class="right">Oil Sump<br> -Filter Screen</p> - -<p class="noindent">Oil Pump</p> - -<p class="right">Felt Gasket</p> - -<p class="noindent">Oil Drain Plugs</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 23. Liberty U. S. A. Engine</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h3 id="Ref01">LUBRICATION SYSTEMS, OILS, AND GREASES</h3> - -<p>Special attention should be given to regular lubrication, as -this, more than any one thing, not only determines the life but -also the economic up-keep of the car.</p> - -<p>Whenever you hear an owner say that his car is a gas eater, -or that it uses twice or three times as much oil as his neighbor’s, -which is the same model and make, you know at once -that he, or some one who has used the car before him, either -did not give sufficient attention to lubrication, or used a poor -grade of oil. It is almost impossible to impress the importance -of the foregoing facts upon the minds of the average -motorist, and we have, as a direct result, a loss of millions of -dollars annually through depreciation.</p> - -<p>The manufacturers of automobiles and gasoline engines -have earnestly striven to overcome this negligence by providing<span class="pagenum" id="Page40">[40]</span> -their products with automatically fed oiling systems -which alleviate some of the former troubles. These systems, -however, also require some attention to function -properly.</p> - -<p><b>Grease.</b>—A medium grade of light hard oil grease is best -adapted for use in grease cups, universal joints, and for -packing wheel bearings and steering gear housings. The -transmission and differential operate more successfully when a -lighter grade of grease is used, such as a graphite compound, -or a heavy oil known as 600 W.</p> - -<p><b>Oils.</b>—Great care should always be exercised in purchasing -lubricants. None but the best grades should be considered under -any circumstances. The cheaper grades of oil will always -prove to be the most expensive in the end. The ordinary farm -machinery oils should never be used in any case as an engine -lubricant, for in most cases they contain acids, alkalies, and -foreign matter which will deteriorate and destroy the bearings -of the motor.</p> - -<p>An oil to give the best satisfaction must be a purely mineral -or vegetable composition which will flow freely at a temperature -of 33° Fahrenheit and also stand a temperature of 400° -Fahrenheit without burning. Always choose an oil which is -light in color as the darker oil usually contains much carbon.</p> - -<p><b>Lubrication</b> (Lat. <i>Lubricus</i>, meaning slippery).—-Lubrication -is provided on all types of automobile engines, and at -various other places where moving parts come in contact or -operate upon each other.</p> - -<p>Three different types of lubricating systems are found in -common use.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig24">Fig. 24</a> shows the splash system. The oil is placed into -the crank case and maintained at a level between two points, -marked high and low, on a float or glass gauge at the lower -left-hand side of the crank case. The oil is usually poured directly -into the crank case through a breather pipe provided -to prevent excessive vacuum pressure.</p> - -<p>The lower end of the connecting rod carries a spoon or -paddle which dips into the oil at each revolution and splashes<span class="pagenum" id="Page41">[41]</span> -it to the cylinder walls and various bearing surfaces within the -motor.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig24"> - -<img src="images/illo063.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 24. Splash Oiling</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Care of the Splash System.</b>—This type of oiling system does -not require any adjustments, or special care, except that the -oil level be constantly kept between the high and low level -marked on the gauge.</p> - -<p><b>Cleaning the Splash System.</b>—Lubricating oils lose their -effectiveness and become thin and watery after a certain period -of use due to a fluid deposit called residue which remains in -the combustion chambers after the charge of gas has been -fired. This fluid generally works its way into the crank case, -thinning the oil.</p> - -<p>The crank case should, therefore, be drained, cleaned, and -refilled with fresh oil every fifth week or thousand miles that -the car is driven. This will prevent much wear and give a -quiet and satisfactory running motor. Draining and washing -out the crank case is accomplished by removing a drain plug -at the bottom of the crank case. The old oil is drained off and -thrown away. Kerosene is then poured into the crank case -through the breather pipe until it flows out of the drain clear -in color. The plug is then replaced and the crank case replenished -with fresh oil until the three-quarter from low level<span class="pagenum" id="Page42">[42]</span> -is reached on the gauge. The oil level should be carried as -near this point as possible to obtain the most satisfactory -result.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig25">Fig. 25</a> shows the plunger or piston pump pressure system -usually used in conjunction with the splash system. The -oil is carried in a reservoir at the bottom of the crank case -and is drawn through a fine meshed screen by the oil pump, -which is of the plunger type operated off the cam shaft. It -forces the oil through copper tubes in the three main bearings. -The front and center bearings have an outlet which -furnishes the oil to the gears in front and to the troughs in -which the connecting rods dip. The troughs have holes -drilled to keep the level of the oil, the surplus being returned -to the reservoir.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig25"> - -<img src="images/illo064.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w50emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center top">PLUNGER PUMP AND STRAINER</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">OIL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT</td> -<td class="center">FRONT<br>BEARING<br>LINE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center top">REAR<br>BEARING<br>LINE</td> -<td class="center bot">CENTER BEARING<br>LINE</td> -<td class="left bot">OIL FLOAT LEVEL</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 25. Plunger Pump Oiling System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>There is a pipe line running from the pump to the gear -case with a screw adjustment to regulate the oil pressure by -turning either in or out. There is a pipe line running to a -gauge on the dash which gives the pressure at all times. The -cam shaft and cylinder walls get the oil by the splash from the -connecting rods. The bottom rings of the pistons wash the -oil back into the crank case. The overflow from the front<span class="pagenum" id="Page43">[43]</span> -bearings falls into a small compartment immediately under -the crank shaft gear where it is picked up by this gear and -carried to the other gears and the bearings of the water pump -shaft. A small oil throw washer on the pump shaft prevents -any surplus oil from being carried out on the shaft or the -hub of the fan drive pulley. Any overflow from the gear -compartment is carried immediately to the splash pan where -it provides for the splash lubrication of the connecting rod -bearings and the cylinder walls. The dippers on the connecting -rod bearings should go <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> in. beneath the surface of -the oil. The upward stroke of the oil pump plunger draws -the oil through the lower ball check into the pump body and -the downward stroke discharges it through the upper ball -check into the body of the plunger which is hollow and has -outlets on either side. This allows the oil to flow from the -plunger into the by-pass in the oil pump body and then into -the lines running to the main crank shaft bearings. The next -upward stroke forces the oil through the lines to the main -bearings.</p> - -<p>The oil pressure regulator is located on the body of the -pump and connects to the by-pass. It consists of a hollow -sleeve screwed into the body of the pump which has a small -ball check held by a short coiled spring the tension of which -determines the oil pressure. The tension and the pressure -may be increased by turning the nut to the right. The nut -should not be given more than one turn at a time in either -direction as it is very sensitive. A loose main bearing will -allow more oil to pass through it. Consequently the pressure -registered on the oil gauge will be reduced. This will come -about gradually. It is not advisable to attempt to adjust the -oil pressure without first noting the condition of the main -crank shaft bearings.</p> - -<p>The most common cause of failure to operate is the collection -of dust and dirt on the sleeve at the lower end of the -pump or from an accumulation of sediment back of the ball -check. This needs to be cleaned from time to time.</p> - -<p><b>Force and Gravity Oiling System.</b>—The force and gravity<span class="pagenum" id="Page44">[44]</span> -oiling system operates in much the same manner as the plunger -pump system, except that the oil is pumped into an elevated -tank from which it flows through lines by gravity to the various -bearings. Oil pumps, however, differ in construction and -some manufacturers use eccentric, centrifugal, and gear -pumps. Oil pumps are very simple in construction and action -and can be readily understood by recalling their functional -action.</p> - -<p>Oil pumps rarely give any trouble, and if they fail to function -properly, dirt should be immediately suspected, and the -ball valves and pipes inspected and cleaned.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page45">[45]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER IV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">BRIEF TREATISE ON CARBURETION</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>A carburetor is a metering device whose function is to mechanically -blend liquid fuel with a certain amount of air to -produce as nearly a homogeneous mixture as possible, and -in such proportions as will result in as perfect an explosive -mixture as can be obtained.</p> - -<p>If a gas is used as a fuel it is of course not so difficult to -obtain a homogeneous mixture due to the intimacy with which -a gas will mechanically mix with air. This intimacy is a -result of the minuteness of the molecules of both the gas and -the air. With a liquid fuel, such as gasoline, however, it is -quite different, especially with low test gasoline. If it were -possible to completely transfer the liquid fuel into its vapor -the latter would act as a gas and would, therefore, mix with -the air to form a homogeneous mixture. It should be, and is, -therefore, the aim of the carburetor designer to produce an instrument -which will atomize the fuel and break it up into -small particles so that every minute particle of the fuel will -be surrounded by a correct proportion of air when it is -discharged into the intake manifold of the motor. To facilitate -the vaporization of these minute particles of fuel it is -advisable to preheat the air taken into the carburetor, thereby -furnishing the necessary heat units required to vaporize the -fuel by virtue of its physical property known as its latent -heat of evaporation.</p> - -<p>There is a range of proportions of air to vapor, for a -given fuel, between which combustion will obtain. This range -extends from that proportion known as the upper limit of -combustion to that known as the lower limit of combustion. -The upper limit is reached when the ratio of air to vapor is<span class="pagenum" id="Page46">[46]</span> -a maximum at which combustion will take place; that is to -say, any addition of air in excess of this maximum will render -the mixture non-combustible. The lower limit is reached when -the ratio of air to vapor is a minimum at which combustion -will take place, any decrease of air below this minimum producing -a non-combustible mixture. It should be remembered -that the limits of combustion of any fuel with air are dependent -upon the temperature and pressure.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig26"> - -<img src="images/illo068.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="6" class="w16pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Carburetor Flange</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Throttle Valve</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">Throttle Stem<br>or Shaft</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Large Venturi</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Idle Discharge Jet</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Idle Adjustment Needle</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">High Speed Adjustment Needle</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Small Venturi</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">Float Needle</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">Air<br>Bleeder</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Mixture Control<br>Valve or Choker</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="center">Float</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">Accelerating Well</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">Idling Tube</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">Strainer</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" class="right">Float<br>Needle<br>Seat</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">High Speead<br>Needle Seat</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="right">Strainer Body</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Gasoline<br>Connection</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">Drain Plug</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 26. Stromberg Model M Carburetor—Sectional View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Under given temperature and pressure the rate at which the -combustible mixture will burn depends upon the ratio of air -to vapor. This rate of burning is known as the rate of -propagation, and it is apparent that it is desirable to obtain a -mixture whose rate of propagation is a maximum, because the -force of the explosion will depend upon the rapidity with -which the entire mixture is completely ignited.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page47">[47]</span></p> - -<p>The limits of combustion of gasoline (.70 sp. gr.) can be -taken approximately as follows: lower limit, 7 parts air (by -weight) to 1 part gasoline, upper limit, 20 parts air to 1 part -gasoline.</p> - -<p><b>The Stromberg Plain Tube Model M Carburetor.</b>—A plain -tube carburetor is one in which both the air and the gasoline -openings are fixed in size, and in which the gasoline is metered -automatically, without the aid of moving parts by the suction -of air velocity past the jets.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig26">Fig. 26</a> shows a longitudinal section of a type M plain tube -carburetor, and shows the location of the gasoline when -the motor is at rest. The various parts are indicated by -names and arrows. An elementary requirement of a carburetor -is that as a metering device it shall properly proportion -the gasoline and air throughout the entire operating -range.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig27"> - -<img src="images/illo069.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 27. Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Air Bleeder Action</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>In the carburetor under discussion this mixture proportioning -is properly maintained by the use of what is termed the -air bleed jet. <a href="#Fig27">Fig. 27</a> shows the principle of the action of the -air bleeder. The gasoline leaves the float chamber, passes the -point of the high speed adjusting needle, and rises through a -vertical channel “B.” Air is taken in through the air bleeder -“C,” and discharged into the gasoline channel before the<span class="pagenum" id="Page48">[48]</span> -latter reaches the jet holes in the small venturi tube “E.” -The result is that the air thus taken in breaks up the flow of -gasoline and produces a finely divided emulsion. Upon reaching -the jet holes of the small venturi tube this emulsion is -discharged into the high velocity air stream in the form of a -finely divided mist. If the reader will recall how thoroughly -a soap bubble divides itself when it bursts, he will readily -appreciate how completely the air bleed jet will atomize the -fuel.</p> - -<p>Before explaining the operation of the accelerating well it -is advisable to know the reason for its existence. Suppose -we had a large tube such as the intake manifold of a motor -through which air and particles of gasoline were flowing due -to a certain suction at one end. What would be the result if -we suddenly increased the suction? It would be this: Due to -the fact that air is so much lighter than gasoline, the air would -respond almost instantly to the increased suction and its flow -would be accelerated very suddenly, whereas the particles of -gasoline, owing to that characteristic known as inertia, would -not respond so rapidly, and due to its heavier weight its flow -would not accelerate as much as the air. This would mean -that the air would rush ahead of the gasoline particles, and the -proportion of air to gasoline would be greater until the inertia -forces had been overcome and the gasoline particles responded -completely to the increased suction. This very thing will take -place in a carburetor unless provision is made for it. That is -to say a sudden opening of the throttle will tend toward -producing a very lean mixture at the motor due to the lagging -of the gasoline explained above. A lean mixture at this -time, when acceleration is desired, would obviously be detrimental -to the result wanted. It is at this particular time that -additional gasoline is most desirable in order to compensate -for the lagging gasoline and maintain the proper mixture at -the motor. In the Stromberg carburetor this is accomplished -by means of the accelerating well shown in <a href="#Fig28">Fig. 28</a>. The -operation is as follows: The action is based upon the principle -of the ordinary U tube. If a U tube contains a liquid,<span class="pagenum" id="Page49">[49]</span> -and if pressure is applied to one arm of the tube, or what is -the same, if suction is applied to the other arm, it is self-evident -that the level of the liquid will rise in the arm on -which the suction is applied and will drop in the other arm. -So it is in the construction of the accelerating well. Referring -to the illustration, <a href="#Fig28">Fig. 28</a>, the space “F” forms the -one arm of the U tube, and the space “B” the other arm. -These spaces communicate with each other through the holes -“G” thus forming a modified form of U tube.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig28"> - -<img src="images/illo071.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 28. Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Accelerating Well</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>When the motor is idling or retarding in speed, the accelerating -well or space “F” fills with gasoline. Now when -the throttle is opened, thereby increasing the suction in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page50">[50]</span> -venturi tube, the following takes place: atmospheric pressure -at the bleeder “C” exerts itself on the gasoline in the space -“F” forcing the liquid down to join the regular flow from -“H” and passing up the space “B” and out into the high -velocity air stream through the small venturi tube. While the -well acts the flow of gasoline is more than double the normal -rate of flow, thereby compensating for the lagging of the -gasoline referred to previously.</p> - -<p>Upon close observation it will be noticed that there is a -series of small holes down the wall of the well. Referring -to the analogy of the U tube, these holes directly connect the -two arms of the U tube. It is obvious that the smaller and -fewer these holes, the faster will the well empty, due to the -U tube suction, and the larger and more these holes, the slower -will the well empty. It is therefore apparent that the rate of -discharge of the well can be regulated as required by different -motors, different grades of gasoline, different altitudes, etc., -by inserting wells of different drillings. The action of the -well is also dependent upon the size of the hole in the bleeder -“C” because it is the relative area of this hole in the bleeder -as compared to the area of the holes in the well which determine -the rate at which the well will empty.</p> - -<p>The foregoing characteristics of the model M carburetor -have dealt more with the open throttle or high speed operation. -We shall now consider the operation when the motor -is idling. Earlier types of carburetors, when high test and -very volatile gasoline was employed, were designed with a -mixing chamber in which the gasoline, after being discharged -from the nozzle, would mix with the air and evaporate very -freely. Present day gasoline, however, is considerably heavier -and very much less volatile, and we therefore cannot depend -upon its volatility to accomplish its vaporization.</p> - -<div class="container w25em" id="Fig29"> - -<img src="images/illo073.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 29. Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Idling Operation</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig29">Fig. 29</a> shows the arrangement and idling operation of the -model M Stromberg carburetor. Concentric and inside of the -passage “B” is located the idling tube “J.” When the motor -is idling, that is, when the throttle is practically closed, the -action which takes place is as follows: the gasoline leaves the<span class="pagenum" id="Page51">[51]</span> -float chamber, passes through the passage “H” into the idling -tube through the hole “I,” thence up through the idling tube -“J” to the idling jet “L.” Air is drawn through the hole -“K” and mixes with the gasoline to form a finely divided<span class="pagenum" id="Page52">[52]</span> -emulsion which passes on to the jet “L.” It will be noted -that this jet directs the gasoline-air emulsion into the manifold -just above the lip of the throttle valve. Inasmuch as this -throttle valve is practically closed the vacuum created at -the entrance of the jet “L” is very high and exceeds 8 pounds -per square inch. It is obvious, therefore, with this condition -existing, that the gasoline will be drawn into the manifold in a -highly atomized condition. It is well to call attention here to -the fact that the low speed adjusting screw “F” operates a -needle valve which controls the amount of air which passes -through the hole “K,” and it is the position of this needle -valve which determines the idling mixture.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig30"> - -<img src="images/illo074.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 30. Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub> Open</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>As the throttle is slightly opened from the idling position -a suction is created in the throat of the small venturi tube as -well as at the idling jet. When idling the suction is greater -at the idling jet, and when the throttle is open the suction is -greater at the small venturi tube. At some intermediate position<span class="pagenum" id="Page53">[53]</span> -of the throttle there is a time when the suction at the -idling jet is equal to that at the small venturi, and, therefore, -at this particular time the gasoline will follow both channels -to the manifold. This condition which is illustrated in <a href="#Fig30">Fig. -30</a> lasts but a very short while, because as the throttle is -opened wider the suction at the small venturi tube rapidly -becomes greater than that at the idling jet. The result is -that the idling tube and idling jet are thrown entirely out of -action, the level of the gasoline in the idling tube dropping -as illustrated in <a href="#Fig31">Fig. 31</a>, where the throttle is shown to be -wide open, in which case all of the gasoline enters the manifold -by way of the holes in the small venturi tube.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig31"> - -<img src="images/illo075.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 31. Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle Wide Open</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>It will be remembered that at this position of the throttle -the accelerating well has emptied, and therefore there is a -direct passage for air from the bleeder to the gasoline in the -main passage giving the air bleed jet feature explained before. -This is being mentioned again in order to call attention<span class="pagenum" id="Page54">[54]</span> -to the fact that care should be taken not to use too large a -bleeder, because the air which enters through the bleeder -partly determines the mixture, and if the bleeder hole is too -large the mixture is very apt to be too lean at high speeds.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig32">Fig. 32</a> shows an exterior photograph of one of the type -M Stromberg carburetor. Before discussing the installation -and adjusting of this carburetor it will be well to say a few -words concerning the use of the venturi tube and its construction.</p> - -<p>The object in using the venturi tube in carburetor design -is to produce a maximum air velocity at the jet and at the -same time not cause undue restriction. This high air velocity -creates the suction necessary to properly atomize the gasoline. -The use of the double venturi tube construction has developed -the best possible results. In this construction the mouth of -the smaller venturi tube is located at the throat of the larger -one, and with this arrangement the highest degree of atomization -is attainable, and at the same time the air restriction is -held down to a minimum.</p> - -<p>In order that any carburetor may do justice to what is -claimed for it, it is absolutely essential that the motor on -which it is installed is in good condition in other respects -because, besides poor carburetion, there are numerous things -about an internal combustion engine which will cause its poor -operation. Therefore, assuming that the following conditions -exist, we can proceed with the installation of the carburetor -and after adjusting it we can expect very good results as to -the operation of the motor.</p> - -<p>1. The ignition should be properly timed so that with a -retarded spark the explosion takes place when the piston of -the cylinder in which the explosion occurs is at its upper dead -center.</p> - -<p>2. The inlet and exhaust valves should be so timed that they -open and close at the proper time during the cycle. In this -respect a motor is usually timed when it comes from the -manufacturer.</p> - -<p>3. The valves should be ground in so that they form a perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page55">[55]</span> -seal with the valve seat. Any accumulation of carbon on -the upper part of the exhaust should be removed so as to prevent -the valve stem from sticking in the guide and thereby not -permitting the valve to close upon its seat.</p> - -<p>4. Any undue wear of the valve stem guides should be corrected -because the clearance between the stem and the walls -of the guide will permit air to be drawn up into the motor -thus ruining the mixture from the carburetor. Similarly any -leaky flange at any joint along the intake system will produce -the same detrimental result.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig32"> - -<img src="images/illo077.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 32. Stromberg Model M—Adjustment Points</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>5. All piston rings should be tight and leak proof in order -to insure good and even compression in all the cylinders. -Without good and even compression in all the cylinders it is -impossible to obtain the maximum power from the motor, and -it is also impossible to obtain good idling of the motor.</p> - -<p>6. It should be seen that the ignition system is delivering a -spark to each spark plug without missing.</p> - -<p>7. The spark plugs should be clean, and the accumulation -of carbon on the inside of the plug should not be sufficient to -cause fouling or short-circuiting of the plug. In the case of<span class="pagenum" id="Page56">[56]</span> -a short circuited plug it is impossible to obtain a spark at -the end of the high tension cable, but this does not indicate -that the plug is firing. For best results the gap of the spark -plug should never be less than .020″ nor more than .032″. -A good setting is at about .025″.</p> - -<p>The foregoing constitute some of the more important -troubles to look for when the motor is not performing satisfactorily.</p> - -<p><b>Installation and Adjusting.</b>—We are finally ready to proceed -with instructions for installing and adjusting Model M -carburetors.</p> - -<p>1. Try the throttle lever and the air horn lever by moving -same with the hand before the carburetor is installed, and be -sure that the butterfly valves are open to the limit when the -respective levers come in contact with their stops. Also be -sure that when the throttle valve is closed, the lower side of the -butterfly is adjacent to the hole through which the idling jet -projects.</p> - -<p>2. Prepare a paper gasket about .020″ thick to fit the flange -of the carburetor. Shellac same and then attach the carburetor -to the flange of the intake manifold very securely by -means of proper cap screws.</p> - -<p>The attaching of the gasoline line, hot-air stove, hot air -flexible tubing, and choke control need not be discussed in detail -as these installations are very simple.</p> - -<p>After having properly installed the carburetor on the motor, -turn both the high and low speed adjusting screws, A and -B, completely down clockwise so that the needle valves just -touch their respective seats. Then unscrew (anti-clockwise) -the high speed adjusting screw A about three turns off the -seat, and turn the low speed adjusting screw B anti-clockwise -about one and one-half turns off the seat. These settings -are not to be considered as final adjustments of the carburetor. -They are merely to be taken as starting points because the -motor will run freely with these settings.</p> - -<p>After the motor has been started, permit it to run long -enough to become thoroughly warm then make the high speed<span class="pagenum" id="Page57">[57]</span> -adjustment. Advance the spark to the position for normal -running. Advance the gas throttle until the motor is running -at approximately 750 r. p. m. Then turn down on the high -speed screw A gradually notch by notch until a slowing down -of the motor is observed. Then turn up or open the screw -anti-clockwise until the motor runs at the highest rate of -speed for that particular setting of the throttle.</p> - -<p>To make the low speed adjustment B proceed as follows: -Retard the spark fully and close the throttle as far as possible -without causing the motor to come to a stop. If upon -idling the motor tends to roll or load it is an indication that -the mixture is too rich and therefore the low speed screw B -should be turned away from the seat anti-clockwise, thereby -permitting more air to enter into the idling mixture. It is -safe to say that the best idling results will be obtained when the -screw B is not much more or less than one and one-half turns -off the seat.</p> - -<p>After satisfactory adjustments have been made with the -motor vehicle stationary, it is most important and advisable -to take the vehicle out on the road for further observation and -finer adjustments. If upon rather sudden opening of the -throttle the motor backfires, it is an indication that the high -speed mixture is too lean, and in this case the high speed screw -A should be opened one notch at a time until the tendency to -backfire ceases. On the other hand if when running along with -throttle open, the motor rolls or loads, it is an indication that -the mixture is too rich, and this condition is overcome by turning -the high speed screw A down (clockwise) until this loading -is eliminated.</p> - -<h3>STROMBERG MODEL L CARBURETOR</h3> - -<p>There are three adjustments; the high speed, the extremely -low speed or idle, and the “economizer.”</p> - -<p>The high speed is controlled by the knurled nut “A” which -locates the position of the needle “E” past whose point is -taken all the gasoline at all speeds. Turning nut “A” to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page58">[58]</span> -right (clockwise) raises the needle “E” and gives more gasoline, -to the left, or anticlockwise, less.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig33"> - -<img src="images/illo080.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 33. Stromberg Model “L”—Adjustment Points</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>If an entirely new adjustment is necessary, use the following -practice. Put economizer “L” in the 5th notch (or farthest -from float chamber) as an indicator, turn nut “A” to the left, -anticlockwise, until needle “E” reaches its seat, as shown by -nut “A” not moving when throttle is opened and closed. -When needle “E” is in its seat it can be felt to stick slightly -when nut “A” is lifted with the fingers. Find adjustment of -“A” where it just begins to move with the throttle opening, -then give 24 notches to the right or clockwise (the notches can -be felt). Then move the economizer pointer “L” back to the -0 notch (toward float chamber). This will give a rich adjustment. -After starting and warming up the motor, thin -out the mixture by turning “A” anticlockwise, and find the<span class="pagenum" id="Page59">[59]</span> -point where the motor responds best to quick opening of the -throttle, and shows the best power.</p> - -<p>The gasoline for low speed is taken in above the throttle -through a jet at “K” and is regulated by dilution with air as -controlled by the low speed adjusting screw “B.” Screwing -“B” in clockwise gives more gasoline; outward, less. The -best adjustment is usually <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> to 3 turns outward from a -seating position. Note that this is only an idling adjustment -and does not effect the mixture above 8 miles per hour. When -motor is idling properly there should be a steady hiss in the -carburetor; if there is a weak cylinder or manifold leak, or -if the idle adjustment is very much too rich, the hiss will be -unsteady.</p> - -<p>The economizer device operates to lean out the mixture by -lowering the high speed needle “E” and nut “A” a slight but -definitely regulated amount at throttle positions corresponding -to speeds from 5 to 40 miles per hour. The amount of drop -and consequent leaning is regulated by the pointer “L.”</p> - -<p>After making the high speed adjustment for best power, -with pointer “L” in 0 notch, as above described, place throttle -lever on steering wheel to a position giving about 20 miles -per hour road speed. Then move pointer “L” clockwise (away -from float chamber), one notch at a time, till motor begins to -slow down. Then come back one notch.</p> - -<p>The amount of economizer action needed depends upon the -grade of gasoline and upon the temperature.</p> - -<p>In the mid-west the best economizer adjustment will usually -be the third or fourth notch. With Pennsylvania gasoline and -in the South, the 2nd notch; while on the Pacific coast no -economizer is necessary unless distillate (which should not -be below 59 degrees Baume) is used. Also fewer notches -economizer action will be necessary in summer than in winter.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page60">[60]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER V</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">“NITRO”-SUNDERMAN CARBURETOR</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig34"> - -<img src="images/illo082.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 34. Sunderman Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig34">Fig. 34</a> shows a through section of the new “Nitro”-Sunderman -carburetor. This is practically a new model presented -to the automobile industry for 1919 and 1920. It is claimed -that it is an exact fulfillment of the long sought method of -accurate compensation. It is of the single plain tube design -with a single gasoline nozzle in the shape of a mushroom -placed in the center of the air passage. Around this nozzle, -however, rests the floating venturi which is a large end and<span class="pagenum" id="Page61">[61]</span> -small center floating air tube seen in <a href="#Fig35">Fig. 35</a> which hurries -the air at low speeds and checks the rush at high velocities. -<a href="#Fig35">Fig. 35</a> shows the commencement of action at idling speeds, -and as the gasoline for idling comes from the same nozzle -which furnishes the maximum power, an air by-pass is provided -to reduce the suction on the nozzle at low speeds. The -one single adjustment on this type of carburetor is shown -at (X) in <a href="#Fig36">Fig. 36</a>, and is used only to control the passage -of air through the by-pass at idling or low speeds. In <a href="#Fig34">Fig. -34</a> the engine’s demand has increased to a point where the -suction is greater than the weight of the venturi, which -causes it to rise on the air stream, and open up the air passage -around the head of the nozzle. This allows the compensation -for the correct ratios of the air and gasoline mixtures.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig35"> - -<img src="images/illo083.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 35. Sunderman Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>In <a href="#Fig37">Fig. 37</a> the venturi closes the air by-pass and under full -suction, gives the maximum area around the nozzle for leaner -mixtures and full volumetric. The unrestricted air passage<span class="pagenum" id="Page62">[62]</span> -in the plain tube type of carburetor is here worked out to its -fullest development.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig36"> - -<img src="images/illo084.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 36. Sunderman Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>The Venturi.</b>—This is a stream line air passage tapered -to a narrow throat near the center which increases the velocities -without offering a restriction to the free air passage, -and being of a very loose fit in the carburetor, is allowed to -float up and down on the air stream around the nozzle over -which it automatically centers at all times. The venturi goes -into action slowly as it is retarded by the action of the air by-pass, -but rises fast when the latter is cut off. It rides on the -air stream at a perfect balance and offers no resistance to -the air passage because of its stream line taper, and as the -venturi float is sensitive to a fine degree, it is ready for any -change in the motor suction and compensates accordingly. -The jet tube running up into the mushroom head contains -a jet which is drilled for the particular requirements of the -motor on which the carburetor is installed. This jet feeds -into the mushroom head which is drilled with four small -holes which spread the gasoline by capillary action in a fine -fan film to all sides of the under surfaces of the slot. Here<span class="pagenum" id="Page63">[63]</span> -the ascending air picks it off at right angles to its path in -a very fine vapor. This vapor is carried up the stream line -venturi without cross currents and is in a finely mixed state -of flame-propagation. The heavier fuels are readily broken -up with this nozzle and straight kerosene has been used with -success. This carburetor does not require any other care -than a thorough cleaning out once or twice in a season.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig37"> - -<img src="images/illo085.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 37. Sunderman Carburetor</p> - -</div> - -<h3>THE SCHEBLER MODEL “R” CARBURETOR</h3> - -<p><a href="#Fig38">Fig. 38</a> shows a section view of operation and adjustment -on the model “R” Schebler carburetor. This carburetor is -designed for use on both four and six cylindered motors. -It is of the single jet raised needle type, automatic in action, -the air valve controlling the needle valve through a leverage -arrangement. This leverage attachment automatically -proportions the amount of gasoline and air mixture at all -speeds. This type of carburetor has but two adjustments. -The low speed adjustment which is made by turning the air -valve cap and an adjustment on the air valve spring for<span class="pagenum" id="Page64">[64]</span> -changing its tension. (A) shows the air valve adjusting cap. -(B) is the dash control leverage attachment. (C) is the air -valve and jet valve connection. (D) is the boss that raises -the jet valve needle and lowers the spring tension on the air -valve giving a rich mixture in starting. The needle valve -seats in E and controls the nozzle spray. (F) is the air -valve spring tension adjusting screw.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig38"> - -<img src="images/illo086.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 38. Schebler Model R Carburetor Assembled</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Model R Adjustment.</b>—To adjust this carburetor turn the -air valve cap to the right until it stops, then to the left one -complete turn, start the motor with the throttle <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> open; after -it is warmed up turn the air valve cap to the left until the -motor hits perfectly. Advance throttle <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> on quadrant. If -the engine backfires turn screw (F) up, increasing the tension -on the air spring until acceleration is satisfactory.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page65">[65]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER VI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE STEWART CARBURETOR</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><a href="#Fig39">Fig. 39</a> shows the Stewart carburetor used on Dodge -Brothers cars, which is of the float feed type in which a -fine spray of gasoline is drawn from an aspirating tube by -a current of air induced by the engine pistons. The supply -of gasoline being regulated by a float which actuates a needle -valve controlling the outlet of the feed pipe. This tube is -also called the spray nozzle. This type of carburetor is commonly -used on automobile engines.</p> - -<p>It consists of a float chamber containing a float, functions -of which are described below, a mixing chamber in which the -gasoline spray is reduced to vapor and mixed with air (i. e., -“carbureted” in proper proportion).</p> - -<p>The float and valve maintain a constant or even supply -of gasoline for the carburetor.</p> - -<p>The gasoline flows from the filter Z into the float chamber -C through the inlet valve G, which is directly actuated by the -float F, so that it closes or opens as the float rises or falls. -As the float rises the valve is closed until the float reaches -a certain predetermined level, at which the valve is entirely -closed. If the float falls below this level because of a diminishing -supply of gasoline in the float chamber, the valve is -automatically opened and sufficient fresh gasoline is admitted -to bring the level up to the proper point. From the foregoing -it will be seen that the float chamber in reality serves as -a reservoir of constant supply, in which any pressure to which -the gasoline has been subjected in order to force it from the -tank is eliminated. When the engine is running gasoline is, -of course, being constantly drawn off from the float chamber -through the aspirating tube L, as will be described later, to<span class="pagenum" id="Page66">[66]</span> -meet the requirements of the motor, but in practice the resulting -movement of the inlet valve is very slight and hence -the flow of gasoline into the float chamber is nearly constant.</p> - -<p>The gasoline inlet valve is also called the “needle valve.”</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig39"> - -<img src="images/illo088.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 39. Stewart Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Between the float chamber C and the engine connection of -the carburetor is an enclosed space called the mixing chamber -O. This compartment is provided with a valve for the ingress -of free air.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page67">[67]</span></p> - -<p>Extending into the mixing chamber from a point below -the surface of the gasoline in the float chamber is a passage, -L for gasoline, ending with a nozzle, so constructed that gasoline -drawn through it will come forth in a very fine spray. -This is called the aspirating tube, atomizer, or more commonly, -the spray nozzle.</p> - -<p>The air inlet AA to the mixing chamber on the carburetor -used on the Dodge is in the shape of a large tube extending -from the carburetor to a box on the exhaust manifold. -Air supplied from this source is heated in order that vaporization -of gasoline may be more readily accomplished.</p> - -<p>A cold air regulator is interposed between this tube and the -carburetor proper so that in hot weather cool air may be admitted. -This should always be closed when the temperature -of the atmosphere is below 60 F.</p> - -<p>The action of the carburetor is as follows: The suction -created by the downward stroke of the pistons draws air into -the mixing chamber through the air ducts (drilled holes HH). -The same suction draws a fine spray of gasoline through the -aspirating tube L (spray nozzle) into the same compartment, -and the air, becoming impregnated with the gasoline -vapor thus produced, becomes a highly explosive gas. In -order that the proportion of air and gasoline vapor may be -correct for all motor speeds, provision is made by means of -a valve A for the automatic admission of larger quantities -of both at high motor speeds. The ducts are open at all -times, but the valve is held to its seat by its weight until the -suction, increasing as the motor speed increases, is sufficient -to lift it and admit a greater volume of air. The valve A -is joined to the tube L, hence the latter is raised when the -valve is lifted and the ingress of proportionately larger quantities -of gasoline is made possible. This is accomplished by -means of a metering pin P normally stationary, projecting -upward into the tube L. The higher the tube rises the smaller -is the section of the metering pin even with its opening, and -hence the greater is the quantity of gasoline which may be -taken into the tube. The carburetor thus automatically produces<span class="pagenum" id="Page68">[68]</span> -the correct mixture and quantity for all motor speeds.</p> - -<p>The metering pin is subject to control from the dash, as -will be explained later, by means of a rack N, and pinion M. -To change the fixed running position of the pin, turn the stop -screw to the right or left. Turning this screw to the right -lowers the position of the metering pin and turning it to -the left raises it. As the pin is lowered more gasoline is -admitted to the aspirating tube at a given motor speed, thus -enriching the mixture.</p> - -<p>A wider range of adjustment of the position of the metering -pin may be had by releasing the clamp of the pinion -shaft lever and changing its position with relation to the -shaft. This should never be attempted by any save experts -in this class of work.</p> - -<p>The carburetor used on the Dodge Brothers car is so nearly -automatic in its action that it is not effected by climatic conditions, -or changes in altitude or temperature. It automatically -adjusts itself to all variations of atmosphere. It is, -therefore, wise to see if the causes of any troubles which -may develop are not due to derangements elsewhere than at -the carburetor before attempting any changes of its adjustment.</p> - -<p>Make all adjustments with dash adjustment all the way in.</p> - -<p>The metering pin should not be tampered with unless absolutely -necessary.</p> - -<p>If replacement of this pin should become necessary, it may -be accomplished as follows: First, remove the cap nut at -the bottom of the rack and pinion housing. Next, turn pinion -shaft slowly from right to left (facing toward the carburetor) -until the bottom of the metering pin appears at the bottom -of the pinion shaft housing. Continue to turn the shaft -slowly in the same direction, releasing the connection to the -dash control if necessary, until the rack to which the pin is -fastened drops out. The palm of the hand should be held -to receive this as the parts are very loosely assembled. The -pinion shaft should be retained at the exact position at which -the rack is released. Install a new metering pin, the way to<span class="pagenum" id="Page69">[69]</span> -do this will be obvious, and return the rack to its proper -mesh with the pinion. Replace dash attachment (if detached), -replace cap, adjust per instructions given on previous page.</p> - -<p>The loose assembling of the metering pin in the rack is -for the purpose of providing for freedom of movement of the -metering pin and in order that binding in the aspirating -tube may be avoided.</p> - -<p>The gasoline filter is installed on the carburetor at a -point where the fuel pipe is connected.</p> - -<p>The pressure within the gasoline tank forces the fuel -through the pipe, through the filter screen (ZO in the filter) -and thence out through the opening to the carburetor.</p> - -<p>The filter cap CC may be removed by turning the flanged -nut on the bottom of carburetor to the left, thus releasing the -inlet fitting.</p> - -<p>The filter screen or strainer should occasionally be cleaned. -This may be readily accomplished by removing the filter cap -to which the screen is attached.</p> - -<p>The filter should be screwed up tight when replaced.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page70">[70]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER VII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE CARTER CARBURETOR</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig40"> - -<img src="images/illo092.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 40—Carter Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig40">Fig. 40</a> shows the Carter carburetor which embodies a -radically new principle. It belongs to the multiple-jet type, -but possesses this striking difference, variations in fuel level -are utilized to determine the number of jets in action at any -time. The variations in fuel level occur in a vertical tube -known as the “stand pipe.” They take place in instant response -to the slightest change in the suction exerted by the -engine. As this suction depends directly on the engine’s -speed, it can clearly be seen that this provides a marvelously<span class="pagenum" id="Page71">[71]</span> -sensitive means of automatic control. A large number of exceedingly -small jets are bored spirally around the upper portion -of this tube. As a result, the level at which the fuel -stands within it, determines the number of jets from which -delivery is being made at any instant and the gasoline supply -is always directly proportioned to the engine speed, however -suddenly changes in speed take place. Owing to the comparatively -large number of these jets, their exceedingly small -size, and their correspondingly short range of action, the -flow of fuel is absolutely uninterrupted.</p> - -<p>The instrument is permanently adjusted for low and intermediate -speeds at the time of installation. An auxiliary air -valve controlled from dash or steering post forms the high -speed adjustment as well as affording a means of securing -absolute uniformity of mixture under widely varying conditions -of weather, temperature, or altitude, directly from the -driver’s seat. A simple method of enabling each cylinder -to such a rich priming charge direct from the float chamber -is another valuable feature that obviates all need of priming -and insures easy starting in the coldest winter weather.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page72">[72]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER VIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE SCHEBLER PLAIN TUBE CARBURETOR MODEL -“FORD A”</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig41"> - -<img src="images/illo094.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 41. Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Sectional View</p> - -<table class="schebler"> - -<tr> -<td>D</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">CHOKER OR SHUTTER IN AIR BEND.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>BE</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">LEVERS CLOSING CHOKER, OPERATED FROM STEERING COLUMN AND FRONT OF RADIATOR.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>H</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">LOW SPEED GASOLINE ADJUSTING NEEDLE.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>I</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">HIGH SPEED GASOLINE ADJUSTING NEEDLE.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>K</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">IDLE AND LOW SPEED BYPASS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>M</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">ACCELERATION WELL.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>P</td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="descr">PILOT OPENING.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The Pilot tube principle is introduced for the first time in -the carburetor and this Pilot tube or improved type of gasoline -nozzle is so designed or built that it automatically -furnishes a rich mixture for acceleration and thins out this<span class="pagenum" id="Page73">[73]</span> -mixture after the normal motor speed has been reached. -This furnishes a very economical running mixture at all motor -speeds, together with a smooth and positive acceleration.</p> - -<p>The importance of this Pilot tube or nozzle principle cannot -be over emphasized, as it furnishes a flexible, powerful -and economical mixture, without the addition of any complicated -parts. The Ford “A” carburetor has no parts to -wear or get out of adjustment.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig42"> - -<img src="images/illo095.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 42. Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Adjustment Points</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Two gasoline needle adjustments are furnished. One for -low speed and idling and one for high speed. These adjustments -have been found advisable and necessary to properly -handle the present heavy grades of fuel and the variations in -the motor due to wear, etc. Those adjustments also insure -the attaining of the widest range of motor speed.</p> - -<p>A double choker is furnished, and with these controls the -Ford can be easily started under the most severe weather -conditions and the mixture controlled from the driver’s seat.</p> - -<p>With the Ford “A” carburetor a low speed of four to five<span class="pagenum" id="Page74">[74]</span> -miles an hour can be secured without any loading or missing. -Also, with this carburetor the maximum speed and power of -the motor are obtained.</p> - -<h3>INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING THE SCHEBLER FORD -“A” CARBURETOR</h3> - -<p>First, remove the Ford carburetor from the manifold, also -the dash board control, the hot air drum, and tubing, and the -radiator choke wire. Be sure to save the cotter pin used in -the throttle control.</p> - -<p>Install the Schebler carburetor, using gasket and cap screws -which are furnished with the equipment. The gasoline connection -is the same as regularly furnished on the Ford equipment -and no other connections are necessary. Screw the connections -on the Ford gasoline line onto the connection furnished -on the carburetor. Attach the hot air drum and the -tubing to the exhaust manifold and run the choke wire through -the radiator.</p> - -<p>Before adjusting carburetor, see that the spark plugs are -clean and set about .035, or nearly the thickness of a new -dime. See that the compression is good and equal on all -four cylinders. See that the timer is clean and in good shape, -as an occasional miss is due to the roller in the timer becoming -worn. Also, be sure that there is no leak in the intake -manifold.</p> - -<p>The steering post control must be set so that the tubing is -fastened into set screw (A) and the control wire is fastened -through the binding post in lever (B) with steering post -control or plunger pushed clear in and the butterfly shutter -(D) in the hot air horn or bend open, so that when the -plunger control is pulled out the wire (C) in the binding -post (B) on lever closes the shutter (D) almost completely. -This will furnish a rich mixture for starting and warming -up the motor under normal weather conditions.</p> - -<p>The wire running to the front of the radiator must be attached -to lever (E) so that when the motor is cold, the -shutter (D) can be closed tight, thus insuring positive starting.<span class="pagenum" id="Page75">[75]</span> -However, this wire must be released immediately upon -starting the motor or the motor will be choked by excess of -gasoline.</p> - -<p>To start the motor, open low speed needle (H) and high -speed needle (I) about four or five complete turns. You -will note that the needles have dials which indicate turning -needle to the right cuts down the gasoline supply.</p> - -<p>Pull out steering post control, open throttle about one-quarter -way, retard the spark, pull out radiator choke wire -which will close shutter and crank the motor. After motor -is started, immediately release radiator choke wire and gradually -push in the steering post control or plunger and let the -motor run until it is warmed up. Then first adjust the high -speed needle (I) until the motor runs smoothly and evenly -with retarded spark. Close throttle part way and adjust idle -needle until motor runs smoothly at low speed.</p> - -<p>In order to get the desired low throttle running, use the -throttle stop screw (L) which will control the throttle opening -and give you the desired low speed running.</p> - -<p>A strainer is furnished on the carburetor which prevents -dirt or sediment getting into the bowl of the carburetor and -choking up the gasoline nozzle or causing flooding.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page76">[76]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER IX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">KEROSENE CARBURETORS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Experiments have been carried on for quite some time -pertaining to the development of a more successful carburetor -which will burn the heavier fuels. The chief difficulty encountered -is to find a more suitable way to vaporize these low -grade fuels.</p> - -<p>Kerosene can be used, only with an application of heat -to the manifold to aid in the evaporation of the heavier parts -of this fuel. The exhaust pipes are available for this source -of heat, but as there is no heat from this source until the -engine is running, it is necessary to start the engine on gasoline -and switch over to the heavier fuels after the warming-up -process.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig43"> - -<img src="images/illo098.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 43. Holley Kerosene Carburetor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig43">Fig. 43</a> shows the Holley kerosene carburetor which is -adaptable to any type of engine by making simple changes in<span class="pagenum" id="Page77">[77]</span> -the exhaust manifold to include the heating coil tube. This -carburetor will operate successfully on any hydro-carbon fuel -with a boiling point below 600° F. Two float chambers are -provided to take care of the starting and running fuels. The -engine is started on the gasoline part of the carburetor and -after a short warming-up period the feed is switched to the -kerosene part of the device.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig44"> - -<img src="images/illo099.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 44. Holley Kerosene Carburetor Installment</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The principle upon which this device operates is to provide -a primary mixture by means of a needle valve and -a very small aspirating jet which gives a mixture that is -too rich for combustion. This rich mixture of atomized fuel -is carried through a coil tube of very thin wall thickness, -which is exposed to the exhaust gases, directly in the exhaust -manifold.</p> - -<p>The temperature in this coil tube reaches as high as 500 -degrees F. The globules of the over rich mixture are broken -up here and flow directly into the mixing chamber, where additional -air enters, diluting the mixture to make it combustible. -The opening of the air valve is controlled by the suction<span class="pagenum" id="Page78">[78]</span> -of the engine and by the throttle valve. The shifter valve for -changing the operation from gasoline to kerosene is conveniently -arranged for dash control, when the engine becomes -warm. A primer is arranged in the manifold just above the -carburetor and aids in cold weather starting.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig44">Fig. 44</a> shows the installation of the Holley kerosene -carburetor. In this case it was necessary to add a compartment -on the exhaust manifold to contain and heat the coil -tube. There are some details that must be taken care of on -installation. A small auxiliary tank must be provided to -hold the gasoline for starting, while a larger tank must be -provided to carry the main supply of kerosene.</p> - -<p>The adjustments of this type of carburetor is through a -needle valve located in each fuel chamber, and as it is impossible -to give any set adjustment that would apply to the -many different types of motors, the proper adjustment must -be worked out. This is done by shifting to the gasoline and -turning the needle valve to the right and left and noting the -point at which the engine runs the smoothest. The needle -valve is then set at this point. The fuel shifter valve is -turned to feed the kerosene, and this adjustment is made in -the same manner.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page79">[79]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER X</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">HEATED MANIFOLDS AND HOT SPOTS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Heat added to the manifold is the probable solution -of the present low-test fuel supplied to the motorist. -In the first place you may be satisfied if your motor -runs and does not give any noticeable loss of power. But -the question is, are you getting full power out of your motor -in accordance with the amount of fuel consumed? And are -you getting the proper amount of mileage out of each gallon? -The answer to both questions would probably be in the -negative, if both questions were taken up individually by -owners.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig45"> - -<img src="images/illo101.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">EXHAUST</td> -<td class="right">INTAKE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">EXHAUST</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">GOVERNOR</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">GOVERNOR</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">CARBURETOR</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 45. Hot Spot Manifold</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>One of the best solutions, if not the best, is the new hot-spot -manifold used on the Liberty engine, which was designed -for Army use. <a href="#Fig45">Fig. 45</a> shows the hot-spot Liberty engine -manifold. The intake manifold is external but short, therefore -does not offer much opportunity for the liquid to condense. -From the carburetor it rises up straight to a point -well above the valve ports and the cylinder blocks, and at -the top of the rise it touches the exhaust pipe and divides,<span class="pagenum" id="Page80">[80]</span> -the two branches sweeping downward quite clear of the exhaust -manifold to each block of cylinders. About three inches -of the intake passage is exposed to the exhaust manifold top.</p> - -<p>The advantage of this design is that the heating element -affects practically only the liquid fuel and does not have -much effect on the fuel already vaporized. Naturally the -liquid fuel is heavier than the vapor, and as the mixture -rushes up the manifold at a high rate of speed and turns to -the right or left, the heavier liquid particles are thrown -straight against the hot-spot, where they are boiled off in -vapor.</p> - -<p>Thus, although the total amount of heat supplied to the -incoming charge is small, vaporization is good, since pains -have been taken to supply the heat where it is needed.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig46"> - -<img src="images/illo102.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 46. Holley Vapor Manifold—Ford Cars</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig46">Fig. 46</a> shows the Holley vapor manifold for Ford cars<span class="pagenum" id="Page81">[81]</span> -which is intended to completely vaporize gasoline by applying -heat at the proper point. As will be noted by the arrows, -the exhaust gases pass down, striking a hot-spot at the top -of the internal intake passage. The exhaust gases flow along -this passage and finally pass out at the bottom. The heavier -particles of fuel, after leaving the carburetor, strike against -the wall at point (A) and there are broken up by the exhaust -gases. Should any of the globules not be broken up at this -point, they will be vaporized when they strike the hot-spot -at (B) as this is directly in contact with the exhaust gases. -It will be noted that the heavier globules are subjected to a -rising temperature. Starting at (A) and finishing at (B) a -control valve regulates the amount of heat supplied to the -intake manifold.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page82">[82]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">COOLING SYSTEMS</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Type, Operation and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Cooling systems are provided on all types of gasoline engines. -As the heat generated by the constant explosions in -the cylinders would soon overheat and ruin the engine were -it not cooled by some artificial means.</p> - -<p><b>Circulation Systems.</b>—There are two types of water circulating -systems. The Thermo Syphon, and the Force Pump -circulating systems.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig47"> - -<img src="images/illo104.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 47. Thermo-Syphon Cooling System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig47">Fig. 47</a> shows how the water circulates in the Thermo-Syphon -system. It acts on the principle that hot water seeks -a higher level than cold water, consequently when the water -reaches a certain temperature, approximately 180° F., circulation -commences and the water flows from the lowest radiator<span class="pagenum" id="Page83">[83]</span> -outlet pipe up through the water jackets into the upper -radiator water tank, and down through the thin tubes to the -lower tank to repeat the process.</p> - -<p>The heat is extracted from the water by its passage through -the thin metal tubing of the radiator to which are attached -scientifically worked out fins which assist in the rapid radiation -of the heat. The fan just back of the radiator sucks -the air through the small tubes which connect the upper and -lower radiator tanks. The air is also driven through between -these tubes by the forward movement of the car.</p> - -<p><b>The Force Pump Circulation System.</b>—The Force Pump -circulating system is constructed in the same manner as the -Thermo Syphon Cooling System. The only difference in the -two systems is that a small pump is attached to the lower -radiator pipe to force the circulation of the water.</p> - -<p>The pump is usually of the centrifugal type and consists -of a fan-shaped wheel operated in a snugly fitted housing. -The water enters at the hub and is thrown out against the -housing and is forced on by the rapid action of the fan -blades. Another type of pump is used by some manufacturers -which consist of two meshed gears of the same size, -which operate in a snugly fitted housing. These gears operate -in a direction toward each other, the water is carried forward -or upward in the space between the teeth, and is forced -on when the teeth mesh and fill the space.</p> - -<p><b>Overheating.</b>—Overheating may be caused by carbonized -cylinders, too much driving on low speed, not enough or a -poor grade of lubricating oil, spark retarded too far, racing -the engine, clogged muffler, poor carburetor adjustment, a -broken or slipping fan belt, jammed radiator tube, leaky connection, -or low water.</p> - -<p><b>Radiator Cleaning.</b>—The entire circulation system should -be thoroughly cleaned occasionally. A good cleaning solution -is made by dissolving one-half pound of baking soda in -three and one-half to four gallons of soft water. The -radiator is filled with the solution and left to stand for twenty -to thirty minutes. The hose is then removed from the lower<span class="pagenum" id="Page84">[84]</span> -pipe, water is then turned into the radiator through the filler -spout until the system is thoroughly flushed out.</p> - -<p><b>Freezing.</b>—Unless an anti-freezing solution is used through -the cold months you are bound to experience trouble. The -circulation does not commence properly until the water becomes -heated. It is apt to freeze at low temperatures before -circulation commences. In case any of the small tubes are -plugged or jammed they are bound to freeze and burst open -if the driver attempts to get along without a non-freezing -solution.</p> - -<p><b>Freezing Solution.</b>—Wood or denatured alcohol can be used -to a good advantage. The following table gives the freezing -point of solutions containing different percentages of alcohol.</p> - -<div class="centerblock fsize90"> - -<p class="blankbefore75">20% solution freezes at 15° above zero.<br> -30% solution freezes at  8° below zero.<br> -50% solution freezes at 34° below zero.</p> - -</div><!--centerblock--> - -<p class="blankbefore75">A solution composed of 60% of water, 10% of glycerine, and -30% of alcohol is commonly used, its freezing point being -8° below zero.</p> - -<p><b>Evaporation.</b>—On account of evaporation, fresh alcohol -must be added frequently in order to maintain the proper solution.</p> - -<p><b>Radiator Repairs.</b>—A small leak may be temporarily repaired -by applying brown soap, or white lead, but the repair -should be made permanent with solder as soon as possible. A -jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair. While the -stopping up of one tube does not seriously interfere with circulation, -it is bound to cause trouble sooner or later, and the -tube will freeze in cold weather. Cut the tube an inch above -and below the jam and insert a new piece soldering the connection. -If the entire radiator is badly jammed or broken, it -will probably be advisable to install a new one.</p> - -<p><b>Air Cooling System.</b>—Air cooling has been developed to -a point where fairly good results are attained. This system -has an advantage over the circulating systems, in that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page85">[85]</span> -weight of the radiator and water is done away with, and no -trouble is experienced with stoppage of circulation and leaky -connection. This system, however, has its drawbacks, in that -it cannot be used successfully on the larger and more compact -engines. In order to allow the necessary large space for -radiation, the cylinders are heavily flanged and set separately. -The fan is placed in a much higher position than usual, in order -that the air current may strike the heads of the cylinders -and circulate downward. Compression is also lowered considerably -to prevent heat generation and pre-ignition. On account -of the small size of the cylinders and low compression, -it is necessary to operate an air cooled engine at a very high -rate of speed to produce sufficient power for automobile locomotion.</p> - -<p>The fan must be kept in good working condition, and care -should be exercised in not allowing the engine to run idle for -any length of time.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page86">[86]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">MUFFLER CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The muffler was designed to silence the otherwise loud report -of the exploding charge of gas, which is released from -the cylinders by the sudden opening of the exhaust valves.</p> - -<p>While these devices are differently shaped and formed, -the functional purpose and action is practically the same in all -designs.</p> - -<p>The burnt or inert gases are forced from the cylinders on -the exhaust stroke. It passes into the exhaust manifold which -absorbs some of the heat before it reaches the muffler.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig48"> - -<img src="images/illo108.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w25pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Hanger</td> -<td class="center">Tie Rod</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Split Clamp Nut</td> -<td class="center">Muffler<br>Shell</td> -<td class="left bot">Spacer<br><span class="padl4">Spacer</span></td> -<td class="center top">Nozzle</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Center Pipe</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 48. Muffler—Three Compartment</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig48">Fig. 48</a> shows a three compartment muffler. The burnt -gases enter compartment No. 1 from the exhaust pipe. This -compartment is sufficiently large to spread the volume which -lessens the pressure and force. It then enters the rear compartment -No. 3, through the center pipe; it expands again and -passes through the perforated spacer plate, enters compartment -No. 2, and escapes through the nozzle in an even silent -flow.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page87">[87]</span></p> - -<p>The muffler at all times produces a certain amount of back-pressure -on the engine which results in a slight loss of power. -The back pressure exerted by the majority of mufflers, however, -is very slight and has a tendency to counter balance -or equalize the sudden shock delivered to the bearings by the -explosion over the piston head.</p> - -<p>The muffler may also become fouled by the use of too much -or too heavy a grade of lubricating oil, which will cause the -expansion space and the small holes in the spacer plates to -become clogged with carbon and soot. This carbon and soot -soon bakes into a hard crust causing much back pressure -which results in a considerable loss of power. This condition -will become noticeable first by a loss of considerable power -caused by an overheated motor. If this condition is not remedied, -the exhaust manifold and pipe leading to the muffler -will soon become red-hot, causing much danger of a serious -damage loss to the car from fire.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig49"> - -<img src="images/illo109.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 49. Muffler</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Muffler.</b>—To eliminate or remedy this condition, disconnect -manifold pipe from the muffler, remove the muffler from -hangers, and disassemble it by removing the nuts from the -tie rods which release the end plates. This will allow the -compartment walls and spacer plates to be drawn from the -sleeve. Each compartment and spacer plate should be removed -sectionally, and its position carefully noted, in order -that it may be replaced correctly in re-assembling. The walls -of the sleeve, and the compartment end plates are scraped -and rubbed with a piece of sandpaper. A small round file -may be used in cleaning the center pipe. The spacer plates -are scraped and sandpapered. The small holes in the spacer<span class="pagenum" id="Page88">[88]</span> -plates may be opened by using the tapered end of a small file. -<a href="#Fig49">Fig. 49</a> shows a muffler of another design. The burnt gas -enters a compartment containing three saucer shaped spacers -which retard and break up the volume. It then passes through -an open compartment and enters reversed spacers through -small holes near the sleeve wall. It centers or forms slightly -in volume and escapes to the next compartment through a -small hole in the center of the second spacer. This action of -forming and breaking is kept up until the outlet is reached.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page89">[89]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">VACUUM SYSTEMS</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Construction, Operation and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The vacuum systems have proved to be one of the important -inventions pertaining to successful motor operation. They -are self contained, simple in construction and automatic in -operation. They do away with the troublesome power and -hand pressure pumps and their connections.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig50"> - -<img src="images/illo111.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w25pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">AIR VENT</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left">FROM<br>INTAKE MANIFOLD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">FROM<br>GASOLINE<br>SUPPLY TANK</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 50. Vacuum System—Top Arrangement</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig50">Fig. 50</a> shows the top arrangement and connections. R is -the air vent over the atmospheric valve. The effect of this -is the same as if the whole tank were elevated, and is for the -purpose of preventing an overflow of gasoline, should the position -of the car ever be such as to raise the fuel supply tank -higher than the vacuum tank. D shows the pipe connection -from the fuel supply tank. C shows the pipe connection to<span class="pagenum" id="Page90">[90]</span> -the intake manifold. W shows a tap or vent through which -gasoline may be fed into the upper chamber, in case the -fuel supply tank is damaged or put out of commission. R -shows the air vent connection from the lower tank.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig51">Fig. 51</a> shows a general diagram of vacuum system installation. -One of the chief advantages is that it allows the carburetor -to be placed near the head of the motor and does -away with the long manifold connections required with the -gravity feed systems. This also reduces the frictional resistance, -gives a richer mixture and greater volume of flow.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig51"> - -<img src="images/illo112.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" class="w33pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">AIRVENT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">A—CONNECTION<br>BETWEEN INTAKE<br>MANIFOLD AND<br>VACUUM TANK</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">C—CONNECTION<br>FROM VACUUM<br>TANK TO CARBURETOR</td> -<td class="left">B—<br>CONNECTION<br>BETWEEN<br>MAIN GASOLINE<br>SUPPLY TANK AND<br>VACUUM TANK</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 51. Vacuum System Installation</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig52">Fig. 52</a> shows a sectional view of the Stewart Vacuum System -and explains the operative value of each part. A is the -suction valve for opening and closing the connection to the -manifold through which a vacuum is extended from the engine -manifold to the gasoline tank. B is the atmospheric -valve, and permits or prevents an atmospheric condition in -the upper chamber. When the suction valve A is open and -the suction is drawing gasoline from the main supply tank, -the atmospheric valve B is closed. When the suction valve -A is closed, the atmospheric valve B must be open, as an atmospheric -condition is necessary in the upper tank in order<span class="pagenum" id="Page91">[91]</span> -to allow the gasoline to flow through the flapper valve H into -the lower chamber. C is a pipe connecting the tank to the -intake manifold of the engine. D is a pipe connecting the -tank to the main fuel supply tank. E is the valve control -lever and has two coil tension springs S attached to operate -the short valve lever F. G is the metallic air-containing float, -which controls the action of the valves through the spring and -lever arrangement. H is the flapper valve at the outlet of T, -and it closes by suction when the vacuum valve A is open.<span class="pagenum" id="Page92">[92]</span> -When the vacuum valve A closes, the atmospheric valve B -opens and relieves the suction in the upper tank, the flapper -valve H opens and allows the fuel to flow from the upper -tank into the lower chamber.</p> - -<div class="container w25em" id="Fig52"> - -<img src="images/illo113.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w25pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">AIR VENT</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">TO INTAKE<br>PASSAGE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">FROM<br>GASOLINE<br>TANK</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">FLOAT VALVE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">UPPER<br>CHAMBER</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">LOWER<br>CHAMBER</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">TO CARBURETOR</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 52. Vacuum System Diagram—Stewart Warner</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>J is a plug in the bottom of the tank which can be removed -to clean or drain the tank. This plug can be removed and -replaced with a pet-cock for drawing off gasoline for priming -or cleaning purposes. K is the line to the carburetor. -It is extended on the inside of the tank to form a pocket for -trapping water and sediment. L is a channel space between -the inner and outer shells and connects with the air vent R, -thus admitting an atmospheric condition to exist in the lower -chamber at all times, and thereby permitting an uninterrupted -flow of gasoline to the carburetor. R is an air vent over the -atmospheric valve; the effect of this valve is the same as if -the whole tank was elevated. It is also for the purpose of -preventing an overflow of gasoline should the position of the -car ever be such as would raise the fuel supply tank higher -than the vacuum tank. Through this tube the lower or reservoir -chamber is continually open to atmospheric pressure. -T is the outlet at the bottom of the float chamber in which -the flapper valve H is located. U is the float stem guide. V -is a strainer which prevents foreign matter from passing into -the vacuum chamber. W is a tap or vent through which gasoline -may be fed into the upper chamber if the fuel tank is -damaged or put out of commission.</p> - -<p>The simple and durable construction of this system makes it -unlikely that the car owner will ever need to make internal -repairs. Before attempting to repair this tank make sure -that the trouble is not due to some other cause.</p> - -<p><b>Air Vent.</b>—A small amount of gasoline may escape through -the air vent occasionally. This will do no harm and no adjustment -is needed. However, if the vent tube continues to -overflow, one of the following conditions will be responsible: -1. The air hole in the main supply tank is stopped up, or -the hole is too small. Enlarge the hole or clean it out. 2. -If gasoline leaks from the system except from the vent tube,<span class="pagenum" id="Page93">[93]</span> -it can only do so from one of the following causes: a. A -leak may exist in the outer wall of the tank. If so soldering -it up will eliminate the trouble. b. The carburetor connection -on the bottom of the tank may be loose. c. There may be -a leak in the tubing at the head of the tank. d. The cover -of the tank may be loose.</p> - -<p><b>Failure to Feed Gasoline to the Carburetor.</b>—This condition -may be due to other causes than the vacuum system. Do -not tinker with it until you are sure that the trouble is not -elsewhere. Flood the carburetor. If gasoline runs out of the -float chamber you may be sure that the vacuum system is performing -its work properly.</p> - -<p><b>To Remove Cover.</b>—To remove the cover for inspection, -take out the screws and run a knife blade carefully around the -top to separate the gasket without damaging it. Shellac the -gasket before you replace it to make the tank air-tight.</p> - -<p><b>Faulty Feed.</b>—If faulty feed is traced to the vacuum tank, -one of the following conditions may be the cause. The float -valve G may have developed a leak. To repair, remove the -top of the tank to which it is attached. Dip the float into a -pan of hot water. Bubbles will show the leak. Punch two -small holes, one at the top, and one at the bottom, and blow -the gasoline out. Then solder up the holes and the leak. -Use solder carefully in order not to add too much weight to -the float. A small particle of dirt may be lodged under the -flapper valve. This trouble can usually be remedied by tapping -the side of the tank. In order to determine whether or -not the flapper valve is working properly, plug up the air -vent tube and remove the pipe extending from the bottom of -the tank to the carburetor. Start the engine and place a -finger over the opening (from which you removed the tube). -If continual suction is felt, it is evident that the flapper valve -is being held off its seat. If tapping the side of the tank will -not remedy this condition, remove the cover and withdraw the -upper chamber. The valve is attached to the pipe projecting -from the bottom.</p> - -<p><b>Strainer.</b>—Remove and clean the strainer screen located at<span class="pagenum" id="Page94">[94]</span> -V, <a href="#Fig52">Fig. 52</a>, every five or six weeks. This screen collects all -the dirt and foreign matter in the gasoline, and often becomes -stopped up.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig53"> - -<img src="images/illo116.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="1" class="w67pc"> -<col span="1" class="w33pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CONNECTION TO<br>GASOLINE TANK</td> -<td class="center">SUCTION TUBE<br>CONNECTION TO INTAKE<br>MANIFOLD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left bot">STRAINER</td> -<td class="center">VENT TUBE<br>CONNECTION</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">COVER</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">ATMOSPHERIC<br>VALVE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">SUCTION VALVE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">VALVE LEVER</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">INNER TANK</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">SPRINGS</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">OUTER TANK</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">FLOAT LEVER</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">FLOAT</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">GUIDE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">FLAPPER VALVE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">DRAIN PLUG</td> -<td class="center">CONNECTION TO<br>CARBURETOR</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 53. Vacuum System—Inside View of Parts—Stewart Warner</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Filling the Vacuum Tank.</b>—To fill the tank after it has -been cleaned or repaired, leave the spark off, close the gas -throttle, and crank the engine over a few times with the -starter or by hand. It takes less than ten seconds to create -sufficient vacuum to fill the tank.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page95">[95]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XIV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY OF PARTS, UNITS AND TERMS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Before taking up the study of automobile ignition systems -and electrical appliances, we will first devote a little time to -study, in order to become familiar with the different electrical -parts, functions, terms and names applied to the various units, -and machines.</p> - -<p>In the first place electricity is not a juice or fluid that flows -through a wire, but is a generated electro-motive force that -may be held in storage or conducted from one place to -another. It will not flow without a round circuit and seeks -ground return at the slightest opportunity. It is designated -in terms which express quality, quantity, force and action.</p> - -<p><b>Voltage.</b>—A volt is an electrical unit, expressing the force -or pressure of the current. The voltage of a system simply -means the difference of pressure exerted on the system measured -in volts.</p> - -<p><b>Ampere.</b>—An ampere is an electrical unit expressing the -quality or intensity of the current.</p> - -<p><b>Ohm.</b>—An ohm is an electrical unit expressing resistance; -or the resistance of conductors to the flow of current.</p> - -<p><b>Current.</b>—The current is the generated electro-motive force.</p> - -<p><b>Circuit.</b>—Electricity will not flow unless there is a circuit -or ground return to its original source.</p> - -<p><b>Low Tension Current.</b>—Low tension current is generated in -the primary winding or coil by placing it in a magnetic field. -It will flow from one point to another but has very little -strength and will not jump the gap at the spark plug. It is -used for lighting purposes, or conducted to an induction coil -which transforms it into a high tension alternating current.</p> - -<p><b>High Tension Current.</b>—High tension current is generated<span class="pagenum" id="Page96">[96]</span> -in the secondary coil by interruption of the primary current -or by the rapid magnetization and demagnetization of the -core and primary coil.</p> - -<p><b>Direct Current.</b>—Direct current is produced by placing a -coil or wire in a magnetic field. It is usually conducted to an -induction coil where it is transformed into a high tension alternating -current.</p> - -<p><b>Alternating Currents.</b>—Alternating currents are produced -by the rapid breaking down and building up of the primary -current. An alternating current flows forward from zero to -its highest point of strength and back again to zero. The -alternating action takes place so rapidly that a light can be -connected in this circuit and it will burn steadily without any -noticeable fluctuation.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig54"> - -<img src="images/illo118.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 54. Coil Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Induction Coil.</b>—An induction coil consists of a soft iron -core; a primary and secondary winding, and a set of platinum -points. The primary winding is wound directly over the core -and consists of a few turns of thick wire. The secondary -wire is wound over the primary and consists of a great many -turns of thin wire. <a href="#Fig54">Fig. 54</a> shows the functional action of -an induction coil. Both of the coils are wound on the soft -iron core A-B. The primary current which is supplied in this -case by a cell or number of cells, C and D, is broken at frequent -intervals of time. The method of doing this is as follows: -One terminal of the primary coil is connected to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page97">[97]</span> -fixed platinum stud D, the other terminal to a spring which -carries a piece of soft iron, E. When the spring is unbent it -touches the stud D, and a current passes in the primary. The -core of soft iron becomes magnetized and attracts the soft iron -disc, E, thus breaking contact at D. The current is stopped -and the core immediately becomes unmagnetized, the spring -flies back and the contact is again made. The process is then -repeated. When the contact in the primary is broken the -current flows in one direction in the secondary coil, when it is -made the current flows in the opposite direction in the secondary. -Thus an alternating current is set up in the secondary -current of great frequency.</p> - -<p><b>Commutator.</b>—The commutator or timer as it is commonly -called is used only in connection with the induction coil to -complete the circuit when a spark is required at the plug in -the cylinder.</p> - -<p><b>Insulation.</b>—Insulating is the act of covering a conductor -with a non-conducting substance to prevent the spark from -jumping or seeking ground.</p> - -<p><b>Choking Coil.</b>—A choking coil in simple form consists of a -coil and iron core to increase self-induction. It is used to -reduce currents of high pressure and is commonly called a -bucking coil.</p> - -<p><b>Fuse.</b>—A fuse is used to prevent conductors or coils from -being damaged by heat generated from high pressure currents. -It consists of a metal and glass tube which contains a -fine wire. This wire being much thinner than the wire of the -cable, the heat naturally develops faster at this point, and is -soon high enough to melt the wire and break or open the circuit, -and thus any further damage to the insulation is prevented.</p> - -<p><b>Condenser.</b>—A condenser usually consists of a few strips -of folded tin foil insulated from each other with paraffined or -oiled paper. It absorbs, restricts and distributes high pressure -currents and also prevents excessive sparking at the -contact points.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig55"> - -<img src="images/illo120.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 55. Dynamo—Diagram of Action</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Dynamo.</b>—A dynamo is a machine which converts mechanical<span class="pagenum" id="Page98">[98]</span> -energy into electric energy, and must consist of at least -two separate parts; the field magnets to create the magnetic -field, and the armature or conductor in which the current is -generated. One or the other of these must be in motion in -order to cut the lines of magnetic force crossing the field. -<a href="#Fig55">Fig. 55</a> shows the operation of the most common or simplest -type of alternating current producing machine, which is similar -and conforms in action to the high tension magneto and -generator. Field pieces magnetize the pole pieces N and S. -A wire coil is placed in the field at right angles to the magnetic -lines of force turned to the right. It takes up the position -of the dotted lines and no lines of force are cut, -whereas in its original position, as many lines of force as -possible are cut. Turning the coil on its axles, a-b, causes -the lines of force cut by c-d, and e-f to vary from the highest -number of lines that it is possible to cut to zero and back -again, thus constantly changing the flowing direction of the -current. The reversal of the current takes place at the instant -that the coil passes the point where it cuts the greatest number -of lines of force. The ends of the coil are connected to a -commutator on the shaft a, b. Steel insulated brushes pick -the current from the commutator ring and conduct it to the -brush post; an insulated wire conductor is attached to this -post and conducts the current to the place of use or storage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page99">[99]</span></p> - -<p><b>Voltaic Cell.</b>—The source of energy of a voltaic cell is the -chemical action. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Ref02">accumulator</a>).</p> - -<p id="Ref02"><b>Accumulator.</b>—The standard accumulator or storage battery -is composed of three cells or hard rubber jars in which -a number of lead plates are immersed in a solution of sulphuric -acid and water known as electrolyte. The plates are -stiff lead grids which hold a paste made of various oxides of -lead. Six plates in each cell are joined to the positive terminal, -and seven plates in each cell are joined to the negative -terminal. Thin wooden separators are inserted between the -plates to prevent them from touching one another. In the -forming process the material on the positive plates becomes -converted into brown peroxide of lead; the negative plates -assume the form of gray metallic lead. The material on -both plates is known as active material. When current is -taken from the cells the sulphuric acid in the electrolyte combines -with the active material of the plates to form sulphate -of lead, and when the battery is recharged the lead sulphate -is again converted into the original active material and the -acid set free in the solution.</p> - -<p><b>Storage Battery.</b>—For construction and action see <a href="#Ref02">Accumulator</a>. -For care see chapter on <a href="#Page180">storage batteries</a>.</p> - -<p><b>Electrolyte.</b>—A chemical solution used in voltaic cells consisting -of two parts sulphuric acid added to five to seven parts -of water by volume.</p> - -<p><b>Hydrometer.</b>—A hydrometer is used to test the electrolyte -solution in the cells of storage batteries. It consists of a -weighted float and a graduated stem, and as sulphuric acid is -heavier than water, the specific gravity reading will be proportional -to the amount of acid. The hydrometer thus measures -the relative amount of acid in the electrolyte and consequently -reveals the condition of the battery.</p> - -<p><b>Ammeter.</b>—An ammeter is an electrical instrument which -indicates the amount of current that the generator is supplying -to the storage battery, or the amount of current that the -storage battery is supplying for ignition, lights and horn.</p> - -<p><b>Circuit Breaker.</b>—The circuit breaker is a device which prevents<span class="pagenum" id="Page100">[100]</span> -excessive discharging of the storage battery. All the -current for lights is conducted through the circuit breaker -(Delco system). Whenever an excessive current flows through -the circuit breaker it intermittently opens the circuit causing -a clicking sound. This will continue until the ground is removed -or the switch is operated to open the circuit on the -grounded wire. When the ground is removed the circuit is automatically -restored, there being nothing to replace as is the -case with fuses.</p> - -<p><b>Switch.</b>—A switch opens and closes the various circuits and -is for the purpose of controlling the light, ignition, generator -and storage battery circuits.</p> - -<p><b>Generator.</b>—See chapter on <a href="#Page147">electrical starting systems</a>.</p> - -<p><b>Regulation.</b>—(Delco). On account of the various speeds -at which the generator must operate it is necessary that the -output be regulated so that sufficient current is obtained at -the low engine speeds without excessive current at the higher -speeds. The regulation in this case is what is known as the -third brush excitation in which the current for magnetizing -the frame is conducted through the auxiliary or third brush -on the generator commutator. With this arrangement the -natural function of the generator itself causes less current -to flow through the shunt field winding at the higher engine -speeds. This weakens the magnetic field in which the armature -is rotating and decreases the output of the generator.</p> - -<p><b>Contact-breaker.</b>—See chapter on <a href="#Page126">Atwater Kent ignition -systems</a>.</p> - -<p><b>Coil, nonvibrating.</b>—See chapters on <a href="#Page126">Atwater Kent ignition -systems</a> and <a href="#Page141">Philbrin electrical systems</a>.</p> - -<p><b>Distributors.</b>—See chapters on <a href="#Page101">Magnetos</a> and <a href="#Page126">Atwater Kent -ignition systems</a>.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page101">[101]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">MAGNETO PARTS AND OPERATION</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig56"> - -<img src="images/illo123.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 56. Magnets—Pole Blocks</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The purpose of the magneto is to furnish electrical current -at regular intervals, to jump the spark plug gaps and to -ignite the gas which has been compressed in the combustion -chambers. The discovery was made years ago that, by placing -a coil of wire between two magnetic poles, current would -be present at once. But it is only while the wire coil is in -motion that the current will flow or circulate, and while there -are many theories why this takes place only while the coil is -in motion, none seem to explain the fact satisfactorily. The -strength of the current depends on the size of the magnetic -field, and the number of wraps of wire in the coil. Consequently -the larger the coil the more intense the current. <a href="#Fig56">Fig. -56</a> represents the magnets, of which there are from three to -six. The U-shaped pieces are made of steel which has been -case hardened and charged with electricity which causes them -to become magnetized. Magnets have two poles or axes, one -of which is positive from which the current flows, and one of -which is negative to which the current flows or passes.<span class="pagenum" id="Page102">[102]</span> -<a href="#Fig56">Fig. 56A</a> shows the pole pieces which are located on the inside of the -lower or open end of the magnets. The pole pieces are channel -ground, leaving a round space or tunnel in which the armature -revolves.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig57">Fig. 57</a> shows the soft iron core which is shaped like the -block letter H, and wound with fine wire, making up the coil -shown in <a href="#Fig57">Fig. 57A</a> of the wound armature.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig57"> - -<img src="images/illo124a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 57. Armature Core—Wound Armature</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig58"> - -<img src="images/illo124b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 58. Primary and Secondary Winding and Current Direction</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig58">Fig. 58</a> shows the primary and secondary winding. The -primary or heavy wire is wound on the core lengthwise, each -strand being separated from the other with rubber or tin foil -insulation. The current passes from the top of the left pole -piece to the top of the core until it passed out of range, -crossing the upper gap between the two pole pieces. As the -top of the core leaves or breaks the contact flow of current, -the bottom of the core comes in contact range, leaving an -open space which breaks the current and changes the direction -of flowage as shown in <a href="#Fig58">Fig. 58A and 58B</a>. This current is -of a low tension nature, and will not jump the gap at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page103">[103]</span> -spark plugs when the engine is running slow. The secondary -winding, shown in <a href="#Fig58">Fig. 58</a>, is made up of many more windings -of a finer wire. The low tension or primary current is -led through the armature shaft to a contact breaker at the -rear of the magneto.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig59">Fig. 59</a> shows the contact breaker, which consists of a housing -in which two platinum points are arranged, one point stationary, -the other attached to an arm on a pivot. The points -are held together by spring tension.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig59"> - -<img src="images/illo125.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 59. Breaker—Slip Ring—Distributor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>A cam on the armature shaft comes into contact with the -arm on which the second point is located, forcing it from -the stationary point, thus breaking the low tension current -which returns to the secondary coil, the magnetizing and demagnetizing -caused by the break in the low tension current, -and sets up a rapid alternating current. One end of the secondary -is led to a collector ring on the front of the magneto. -<a href="#Fig59">Fig. 59A</a> shows the collector ring. A carbon brush collects the -current from the ring and conducts it to the distributor’s centrally -located arm. <a href="#Fig59">Fig. 59B</a> shows the distributor. The centrally -located arm is timed to deliver the current, or comes -into contact with one of the segments or brushes and allows -the current to flow from the segment to the gap at the spark -plug, where it jumps the gaps and ignites the gas in the cylinders -at the proper time. Then it returns through the -ground (the engine and the frame) to the magneto, where it -passes back into the secondary coil, passing through an insulated -condenser consisting of small plates of steel insulated -from one another. This regulates the flowage of the returning<span class="pagenum" id="Page104">[104]</span> -current, by reducing it through resistance, and prevents -the armature from heating.</p> - -<p>A safety spark gap is provided on some magnetos which -causes the spark to jump and lose some of its force through -resistance when the plugs become shorted. This also restricts -the current and greatly aids the condenser in performing its -purpose.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page105">[105]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XVI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">BOSCH HIGH TENSION MAGNETO</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Operation, Adjustment and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Like all other types of high tension magnetos, the Bosch -Type ZR. Ed. 16 explained in this chapter, generates its own -current and is usually employed as sole ignition on an engine.</p> - -<p>The timer and distributor are integral; and the rotation of -the armature, between the poles of strong permanent field -magnets, sets up or induces a current in the armature primary -circuit, which is farther augmented at every one hundred and -eighty degrees of revolution of the armature shaft, by the -abrupt interruption of the primary circuit by means of the -magneto interruptor. At the opening of the primary circuit -the resulting discharge of current from this circuit induces a -current of high voltage in the armature secondary circuit. -The high tension current thus created is collected by a slip -ring on the armature and passes to the slip ring brush then -to the various magneto distributor terminals each of which -is connected to a spark plug in its respective cylinder.</p> - -<p>The operation of the instrument will be more clearly understood -from a study of the complete circuits, primary and -secondary, which follows.</p> - -<p><b>The Primary or Low Tension Circuit.</b>—The beginning of -the armature primary circuit is in metallic contact with the -armature core, and the end of the primary circuit is connected -by means of the interruptor fastening screw to the insulated -contact block supporting the long platinum contact -on the magneto interruptor. The interruptor lever carrying -a short platinum contact, shown in <a href="#Fig60">Fig. 60</a> at C is mounted on -the interruptor disc, which in turn, is connected to the armature<span class="pagenum" id="Page106">[106]</span> -core. The primary circuit is completed whenever the -two platinum contacts of the interruptor are brought together, -and separated whenever these contacts are separated.</p> - -<p>From the latter point the high tension current passes to the -distributor brush (<a href="#Fig60">shown</a> at D) which is held in a brush holder -on the distributor gear, and consequently rotates with the -distributor gear. Metal segments are imbedded in the distributor -plate and as the distributor brush rotates it makes -successive contacts with the segments, passing the current -onto the spark plug gaps through the high tension cables -which are attached to the segment terminal posts.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig60"> - -<img src="images/illo128.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 60. Bosch M Distributor and Interruptor—Housing Removed</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig61">Fig. 61</a> shows a circuit diagram of the Type ZR. Ed. 16. -Bosch Magneto. Note that the spark plugs must be connected -up in accordance with the firing order of the engine. -The metal segments imbedded in the distributor plate are -connected with the terminal studs on the face of the plate, -and the latter are connected by cable to the spark plugs in -the various cylinders. In the cylinders the high tension current -produces a spark which produces ignition, and then returns -through the ground and the engine to the magneto armature, -thus completing the circuit.</p> - -<p><b>Timing the Magneto.</b>—With the average four cycle engine -the proper operating results are obtained by timing the magneto<span class="pagenum" id="Page107">[107]</span> -as follows: The crank shaft is rotated to bring the piston -in No. 1 cylinder (in automobile practice this is the cylinder -nearest the radiator) exactly on top dead center of the compression -stroke. The timing control lever on the housing is -then placed in the fully retarded position. With this done, -the magneto distributor plate should be removed by withdrawing -the two holding screws, or by releasing the two -holding springs as the case may be.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig61"> - -<img src="images/illo129.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w45emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left">DISTRIBUTOR</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">BRUSH<br>HOLDER</td> -<td class="center">SAFETY<br>SPARK GAP</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">SLIPRING</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">CONDENSER</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">ARMATURE</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">INTERRUPTER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">GROUND</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">GROUND</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 61. Wiring Diagram Bosch Magneto, Type ZR-4</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The operation of the platinum contact points is controlled -by the action of the interruptor lever as it bears against -the two steel segments secured to the inner surface of the -interruptor housing.</p> - -<p>In <a href="#Fig60">Fig. 60</a>, A shows the distributor with the face plate -removed to show the position of the distributor segments -which are connected to the terminal posts on the back of the -plate. B shows the interruptor housing and cover removed -from its position on the magneto. C shows the complete assembly -of the distributor and interruptor. Note that the face -plate of the distributor is fastened on with a set of screws -while the interruptor cover is held in position with a latch.</p> - -<p><b>The Secondary or High Tension Current.</b>—The high tension<span class="pagenum" id="Page108">[108]</span> -current is generated in the secondary circuit only when -there is an interruption of the primary circuit, the spark being -produced at the instant the platinum interruptor contact -points separate. The armature secondary circuit is a continuation -of the armature primary circuit, the beginning of -the secondary circuit being connected to the primary, while -the end of the secondary is connected to the insulated current -collector ring mounted on the armature just inside the driving -shaft end plate of the magneto. The slip ring brush is held -in contact with the slip ring by a brush holder at the shaft -end of the magneto which receives the high tension current -collected by the slip ring by means of a connecting bar which -passes under the arch of the magnets, and passes the current -to the center of the distributor plate, thus exposing the distributor -brush and gear. The cover of the interruptor housing -is also to be removed to permit observation of the interruptor -points.</p> - -<p>The armature should then be rotated by means of the exposed -distributor gear in the direction in which it is driven -until the platinum contact points are about to separate, which -occurs when the interruptor lever begins to bear against one -of the steel segments of the interruptor housing. Timing or -installation is completed by replacing the interruptor housing -cover and distributor plate, and connecting the cables between -the magneto and the spark plugs.</p> - -<p><b>Exact Magneto Timing.</b>—The foregoing will establish the -desired relationship between the magneto armature shaft and -the engine crank shaft. It should be noted, however, that -while these instructions cover the average engine, the exact -magneto timing for individual engines is best determined by -trial.</p> - -<p>When specific instructions for magneto timing are given by -the engine manufacturer, it is recommended that such instructions -be followed in preference to those herein given.</p> - -<p>It must always be borne in mind that while making connections -the distributor brush travels in the opposite direction -to the rotation of the armature shaft.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page109">[109]</span></p> - -<p><b>The Condenser.</b>—The condenser consists of a set of metal -discs, insulated from one another with tin foil. It is carried -at the interruptor end of the magneto. It is connected in the -primary current and forms a shunt connection with the interruptor -contact points, and through resistance to the returning -ground current prevents excessive sparking at the interruptor -contact points which would soon burn the points -and ruin the coils.</p> - -<p><b>The Safety Spark Cap.</b>—A safety spark cap is provided to -protect the armature and other current carrying parts. Under -normal conditions the current will follow its path to the spark -plug, but if for any reason the resistance in the secondary -wire is increased to a high point, as when a cable becomes disconnected, -or a spark gap too wide, the high tension current -will discharge across the safety spark gap.</p> - -<p><b>Caution.</b>—The current should never be allowed to pass over -the safety spark gap for any length of time, and if the engine -is operated on a second or auxiliary ignition system, the -magneto must be grounded in order to prevent the production -of high tension current. The snapping sound by which the -passage of current across the safety spark gap may be noted -should always lead to an immediate search for the cause of the -difficulty.</p> - -<p><b>The Safety Spark Gap.</b>—The safety spark gap consists of -a pointed metal electrode projecting from the mounting flange -of the slip ring holder, inside the shaft end hood. The tip -of the electrode extends to within a short distance of the connecting -bar, extending from the brush holder to a magneto -distributor plate center post.</p> - -<p><b>Timing Range.</b>—The magneto interruptor housing is arranged -so that it may be rotated through an angle of thirty-four -to thirty-seven degrees with respect to the armature shaft. -The movement of this housing in one direction or another -causes the interruptor lever to strike the steel segments earlier -or later in the revolution of the armature, the spark occurring -correspondingly earlier or later in the cylinder. The spark -can be advanced by means of moving the interruptor housing<span class="pagenum" id="Page110">[110]</span> -which is connected to the spark lever on the steering gear, in -the direction opposite the rotation of the armature. The armature -rotation is usually indicated by an arrow on the cover -at the driving end of the magneto.</p> - -<p><b>Cutting Out Ignition.</b>—Since a high tension current is -generated only on the interruption of the primary circuit, it -is evident that in order to cut out the ignition, it is merely -necessary to divert the primary current to a path that is not -affected by the action of the magneto interruptor. This is -accomplished as follows: An insulated grounding terminal is -provided on the cover of the magneto interruptor housing with -its inner end consisting of a spring with carbon contact pressing -against the head of an interruptor fastening screw. The -outer end of the grounding screw is connected by low tension -cable to one side of the switch, and the other side of the -switch is grounded by connecting a cable between it and the -engine or frame. When the switch is open the primary current -follows its normal path across the interruptor points, -and is interrupted at each separation of these contact points. -However, when the switch is closed, the primary current -passes from the head of the interruptor fastening screw to the -carbon contacts of the grounding terminal, thence through the -switch to the engine and back to the magneto, and as the primary -current remains uninterrupted when following this path, -no ignition current is produced.</p> - -<p><b>Care and Maintenance.</b>—Aside from keeping the magneto -clean externally, practically the only care required is the oiling -of the bearings. Of these there are two sets supporting -the armature, and a single plain bearing supporting the shaft -of the distributor gear. Any good light oil may be used for -this purpose (never cylinder oil), and each of the bearings -should receive not more than two or three drops about every -thousand miles. Apply the oil through the oil ducts at each -end of the armature shaft. The interruptor is intended to -operate without oil, as oil on the interruptor platinum points -prevents good contact, and causes sparking, burning, and misfiring. -Care should be taken to prevent oil entering these parts.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page111">[111]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XVII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">MAGNETO WASHING, REPAIRING AND TIMING</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>One point that cannot be over sufficiently emphasized is -the warning that only those who are thoroughly familiar with -the magneto should attempt to disassemble it. Therefore every -part should be studied, and its functional action fully -understood before any repairs or adjustments are undertaken.</p> - -<p>The manufacturers of magnetos have developed their product -to a point of high efficiency and dependability, and if -they are properly lubricated and washed occasionally to prevent -gumming up, very little trouble may be expected from -this type of ignition system.</p> - -<p><b>Magneto Cleaning.</b>—Magneto parts should be washed with -gasoline as it has the ability to remove grease and dirt and -evaporates rapidly leaving a perfectly dry surface. Care -should be exercised to prevent fire, for the present grade of -gasoline does not evaporate as readily as it did some time ago -when refiners furnished a high test grade of fuel and the surface -of the armature and indentures of the magneto may retain -a pool or film which may be ignited by a short circuit, or from -the breaker box, and cause a fire which would ruin the magneto. -There is, however, little danger from fire if the gasoline is -used sparingly, and each part wiped dry before reassembling -the magneto.</p> - -<p>It is considered a good point when the magneto has been -taken apart to be cleaned to go over every part with a cloth -dampened in kerosene, because gasoline leaves a very dry surface -which is liable to rust. The bearings especially are most -easily affected in this way.</p> - -<p>The armature may be washed with a brush which has been<span class="pagenum" id="Page112">[112]</span> -dipped into gasoline, but should not be immersed as that -would soften the insulation and cause it to rot.</p> - -<p>The way in which the parts come off should be carefully -noted in order to avoid trouble in reassembling, and the gears -operating the distributor should be carefully marked to assure -correct timing, which will result in a saving of time and -trouble.</p> - -<p>When the magnets are removed, close the ends with a file -or piece of steel to prevent them from becoming demagnetized.</p> - -<p><b>Magneto Repairing.</b>—As previously stated, it is not likely -that a magneto will require any further attention than the -regular monthly oiling. Two or three drops of light sewing -machine oil should be dropped into the oil wells which supply -the bearings at each end of the armature shaft.</p> - -<p>If any trouble arises that can be traced directly to the -magneto, examine the breaker box mechanism first; the locknut -at the point adjustment may have worked loose, and the -points may be closed, or some abnormal condition may exist -that has caused the points to pit and stick.</p> - -<p>Breaker point adjustment varies from the thickness of a -sheet of writing paper to one sixty-fourth of an inch; an adjustment -anywhere between these two points usually results -in satisfactory operation.</p> - -<p>If the magneto does not function properly after the breaker -box and external wire connections have been examined, the -trouble is probably due to an internal short circuit, and repairs -of this nature should only be undertaken by an expert -magneto mechanic.</p> - -<p>To remove the magneto, disconnect the high tension wires -leading to the spark plugs from the distributor terminal posts, -tag and number each wire to correspond with the number -stamped below the post. If the engine fires 1-2-4-3, number -three wire will be attached to number four terminal post. -Then remove the ground wire and disconnect the universal -joint and remove the metal strap, or the set screws, from the -base.</p> - -<p><b>To Time the Magneto.</b>—Place the timing control lever in<span class="pagenum" id="Page113">[113]</span> -a fully retarded position; remove the plates from the distributor -housing to expose the distributor brush and gear, -then remove the cover from the interruptor housing to permit -observation of the points, and rotate the armature in the direction -which it is driven until the point begins to open. At -this point mesh the distributor gear so that the distributor -lever will just be touching one of the segments which connect -to the distributor terminal posts.</p> - -<p><b>Timing the Magneto with the Engine.</b>—Rotate the crank -shaft until No. 1 cylinder is up on dead center on the compression -stroke; rotate the armature, with the spark lever in -full retard until the distributor arm begins to make contact -with No. 1 segment, and mesh the timing gear at this point.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page114">[114]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XVIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">NORTH EAST IGNITION SYSTEM</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The N.-E. Model O Distributor Ignition System is used on -Dodge Brothers cars. This system provides high tension ignition -for the engine by transforming the low voltage of the -starter generator or the battery into a high voltage capable of -jumping freely between the spark plug electrodes. This is -accomplished through the agency of an induction coil, the -primary winding of which, in series with an interruptor or -contact breaker, receives current under normal running conditions -from the starter generator. The starting and lighting -battery, however, supplies this current instead of the -generator whenever the engine is starting or running very -slowly.</p> - -<p>At each interruption of the primary current there is set up -in the secondary winding of the coil a high tension current, -and this current flows from the coil through a high tension -cable to the distributor rotor from which point it is selectively -conducted to the proper spark plug. Upon reaching the spark -gap in the plug, it jumps from the inner electrode to the outer -one, which is grounded, and then returns through the engine -frame to the grounded end of the secondary winding on the -ignition coil. The high tension spark thus produced in the -cylinder ignites the gas and so brings about the necessary combustion.</p> - -<p><b>Wiring</b> (<a href="#Fig62">Fig. 62</a>).—As will be evident upon reference to -the accompanying wiring diagram, the primary circuit of the -ignition system leads from the positive terminal of the battery -through the charging indicator to the ignition switch -binding post marked “Bat.,” thence, when the switch is turned -on, through the switch to one of its binding posts marked “Ign. -Coil.” Continuing on from this point through the ignition -coil and the breaker contacts, it returns to the second switch -binding post marked “Ign. Coil,” where it passes through the -switch again. It then finally reaches the grounded negative -terminal of the battery through the grounded terminal of the -switch and the car frame.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page115">[115]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig62"> - -<img src="images/illo137.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w65emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="1" class="w16pc"> -<col span="1" class="w05pc"> -<col span="1" class="w16pc"> -<col span="1" class="w14pc"> -<col span="1" class="w07pc"> -<col span="1" class="w16pc"> -<col span="1" class="w05pc"> -<col span="1" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="center">CHARGING<br>INDICATOR</td> -<td class="left">IGNITION AND<br>LIGHTING SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">SPARK PLUGS</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right">GROUNDED<br>THROUGH CASE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">CONTACT-STUD LOCK NUT</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">STATIONARY CONTACT-STUD</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">MANUAL CONTROL LEVER</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="right">BREAKER-ARM</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">GROUND<br>CONNECTION</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">BREAKER-CAM</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">STARTING SWITCH AND<br>REVERSE CURRENT<br>CUT-OUT</td> -<td colspan="3" class="right top">BREAKER-CAM NUT</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="center">CONDENSER</td> -<td class="center">BREAKER-<br>CONTACTS</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">IGNITION<br>COIL</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">BREAKER BOX</td> -<td class="center">DISTRIBUTOR<br>HEAD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">BATTERY</td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">SECONDARY COIL</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">PRIMARY COIL</td> -<td colspan="4" class="center">SAFETY SPARK GAP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">GROUND CONNECTION</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">GROUNDED<br>THROUGH CASE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illobox--> - -<p class="caption"><b>Circuit Diagram of the Model O Ignition System on the Dodge Brothers Motor Car</b></p> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 62. Wiring Diagram, North-East System—on Dodge Car</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page116">[116]</span></p> - -<p>The ignition switch is so constructed that it produces a reversal -of polarity in the distributor circuit each time the -switch is turned off and then on again. For this reason there -is no necessity of making a distinction between the two wires -leading from the distributor to the two switch binding posts -marked “Ign. Coil,” because the operation of the system cannot -be affected by the transposition of these wires. With -this one exception, however, the ignition circuit connections -must always be made exactly as indicated in the diagrams, if -satisfactory operation of the system is to be maintained.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig63"> - -<img src="images/illo138.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w65emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w15pc"> -<col span="3" class="w10pc"> -<col class="w05pc"> -<col span="2" class="w10pc"> -<col span="2" class="w15pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">HIGH TENSION<br>DISTRIBUTOR TERMINALS</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">DISTRIBUTOR-BRUSH</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">DISTRIBUTOR-HEAD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">DISTRIBUTOR-ROTOR</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">BREAKER-CAM NUT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">BREAKER-ARM</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">LOCK WASHERS</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">VERTICAL SHAFT</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">BREAKER-CAM</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">VERTICAL SHAFT<br>BEARING SLEEVE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">STATIONARY CONTACT-STUD<br>SUPPORT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">PRIMARY COIL<br>TERMINALS</td> -<td colspan="8"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">GREASE CUP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">COUPLING YOKE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">HIGH TENSION<br>COIL TERMINAL</td> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td class="right">HORIZONTAL SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">ADVANCE PLATE</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">COIL HOUSING</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">VERTICAL SPIRAL GEAR</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">ADVANCE WEIGHTS</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">IGNITION COIL</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="center">HORIZONTAL SPIRAL GEAR</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 63. North-East Distributor—Model O—Ignition</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Ignition Distributor.</b> (<a href="#Fig63">Fig. 63</a>).—The model O ignition -distributor is mounted on the right-hand side of the Dodge -Brothers engine where it is held rigidly in position by means -of four bolts. The horizontal shaft of the distributor is connected<span class="pagenum" id="Page117">[117]</span> -directly to the engine pump shaft through a flexible -coupling, and runs, therefore, at engine speed. The vertical -distributor shaft is driven from the horizontal shaft by means -of spiral gears which reduce its speed to one-half that of the -engine.</p> - -<p>The complete distributor unit consists essentially of three -self-contained assemblies: The ignition coil, the breaker box -and distributor base assembly which include the automatic -spark advancing mechanism. Each one of these three elements -is so constructed as to be readily detachable from the distributor -unit independently of the others.</p> - -<p><b>Ignition Coil.</b>—The ignition coil, which is contained in a -separate housing, forming part of the distributor unit, is constructed -for 12 volt service and operates directly on the -starting and lighting circuit. The coil housing is attached to -the distributor base by means of four screws and serves also -as a cover for the automatic advance compartment. The -high tension terminal located on the coil housing is designed -to provide a safety spark gap, as well as to act as a binding -post for the high tension cable which connects the coil to the -distributor head.</p> - -<p><b>Breaker Box and Distributor Head Assembly.</b> (<a href="#Fig64">Fig. 64</a>).—The -breaker box and distributor head assembly is mounted -in an upright position near the center of the distributor base -and is secured in place by a large-headed screw in the vertical -portion of the base. This screw projects into the annular -groove in the vertical shaft bearing sleeve, thereby preventing -the breaker box assembly from becoming detached from the -distributor base and yet at the same time permitting it to turn -freely from side to side. The short lug projecting downward -from the manual control lever on the breaker box extends -into the round hole near the middle of the distributor -base and acts as a stop to limit the travel of the breaker box.</p> - -<p>In case it should become necessary to remove the breaker -box and distributor head assembly, the distributor head should -first be detached from the breaker box and then, with the -breaker box in the position of full retard, the exact location<span class="pagenum" id="Page118">[118]</span> -of the distributor rotor should be marked accurately on the -edge of the box. This mark should be made with special -care, because it has to serve as the sole guide for the correct -position of the vertical shaft when the assembly is put back -in place again on the distributor base. Moreover, while the -breaker box assembly is separated from the base, the horizontal -shaft in the base must not be turned from the position it -occupied at the time when the location of the rotor was marked. -If either of these precautions is neglected, the correct relationship -between the several moving parts of the system will -be likely to be disturbed to such an extent that the complete -retiming of the distributor will become necessary.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig64"> - -<img src="images/illo140.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 64. North-East Breaker-Box</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Condenser.</b>—The condenser, shunted across the breaker contacts -to absorb the inductive surges that occur in the primary -circuit at each interruption, serves to intensify the effect produced -in the secondary circuit by these interruptions, and also -to protect the breaker contacts from injurious arcing. It is -contained in a sealed case which protects it against possible -external injury, and is located in the breaker box close to -the breaker contacts where its maximum effectiveness is obtained.</p> - -<p>Being very substantially constructed, the condenser ordinarily<span class="pagenum" id="Page119">[119]</span> -requires no attention. If for any reason it should become -inoperative, the best course is always to replace it with -a new one, because condenser repairs are not economically -practicable. The entire condenser unit can be easily removed, -whenever desired, by disconnecting the two condenser -leads from the breaker box binding posts, and then unscrewing -the two nuts on the under side of the breaker box that -hold the condenser case in place.</p> - -<p><b>Breaker Contacts.</b>—The breaker arm, which carries one of -the two breaker contacts, is mounted on a pivot post from -which it is thoroughly insulated by a fiber bushing. The helical -spring, which is attached to the lug at the pivot end of -the arm, holds it normally in such a position that the breaker -contacts are kept closed. But the fiber block near the middle -of the breaker arm lies in the path of the breaker cam and -is consequently struck by each lobe of the cam as the vertical -shaft revolves. Each of these blows from the cam cause the -breaker contacts to be forced apart, and thereby produce the -necessary interruptions in the primary circuit. The second -contact is carried by the stationary contact stud, which is adjustably -mounted in an arched support. With this stud properly -adjusted the difference between the contact points when -they are fully separated by the cam, is twenty thousandths of -an inch (.020″).</p> - -<p>If it should ever become necessary to renew the breaker -contacts, a complete replacement of the entire breaker arm -and the contact stud assemblies will in general be found to be -the most effectual method of handling the work. The breaker -arm can be removed by simply lifting it off its pivot bearing -after its pigtail has been disconnected from the breaker box -binding post. The spring attached to the breaker arm lug will -slip off of its own accord as soon as the arm is raised sufficiently -from its normal position. After the breaker arm has -been taken off, the stationary contact stud can be removed by -releasing its lock nut and unscrewing it from its support. To -replace the breaker arm it is merely necessary to insert the -lug in the spring, and then, with the spring held taut, to push<span class="pagenum" id="Page120">[120]</span> -the arm firmly down upon its pivot post until it snaps into -position.</p> - -<p><b>Breaker Cam.</b>—The breaker cam, by which the interruptions -in the primary circuit are produced has four projections on -its working surface, so spaced that one of them strikes the -breaker arm and causes the breaker contacts to be abruptly -separated each time a spark is required. The cam is held in -place on the upper end of the vertical shaft by means of a -slotted nut and set of special lock washers. It should never -be disturbed if avoidable, because its accurate setting is absolutely -essential to the correct operation of the entire system. -If, at any time, however, its position should become -altered accidentally, it must be carefully reset at once in accordance -with the timing directions given later on.</p> - -<p>The breaker cam and the distributor rotor are both mounted -on the vertical shaft and are rotated at exactly one-half engine -speed. Accordingly, since the engine is of the usual four-cycle -type requiring two revolutions of the crank shaft for one -complete cycle of operation, the distributor rotor and breaker -can make one revolution during the completion of each full -cycle of the engine.</p> - -<p><b>Distributor Head.</b>—The distributor head contains five high -tension terminals. The central terminal receives the current -from the secondary winding of the ignition coil and transmits -it to the rotor arm by which it is distributed to the four outer -terminals. These outer terminals are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 -respectively, corresponding to the firing order of the engine, -and are connected to the four spark plugs in accordance with -their markings. The distributor rotor in completing one full -revolution establishes contact successively between the rotor -brush and each one of these four outer distributor terminals, -each contact being made at the same moment that the primary -circuit is interrupted by the action of the breaker cam. Thus -when the spark plug leads are properly connected, the high -tension current, as soon as produced in the secondary circuit, -is conducted to the spark plug of the proper cylinder just at -the moment when the gas in that particular cylinder is ready<span class="pagenum" id="Page121">[121]</span> -for firing. If, therefore, the spark plug leads ever have to -be removed from the distributor head, they must always be attached -again carefully in the correct order.</p> - -<p><b>Automatic Advance Mechanism.</b> (<a href="#Fig65">Fig. 65</a>).—Combustion -does not follow instantaneously upon the occurrence of the -spark, however, because a small time interval is always needed -for the gas in the cylinder to ignite. Consequently, unless -some means are provided for offsetting the lag between spark -and combustion, the explosion of the gas could not always be -made to take place at exactly the correct moment under varying -conditions of engine speed.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig65"> - -<div class="container w20em"> -<img src="images/illo143.jpg" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 65. Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—North East</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>To compensate for this lag, therefore, there is incorporated -in the distributor a centrifugally actuated mechanism, which -is capable of automatically advancing or retarding the time -of the spark in exact accordance with the rate of speed at -which the engine is running.</p> - -<p>The operating characteristics of the automatic advance are -accurately proportioned to conform throughout the entire -speed range with the requirements of the engine; and in order -to insure the permanence of this relationship the device is -so constructed as to be practically nonadjustable.</p> - -<p><b>Manual Spark Control.</b>—Besides this automatic advance -there is also the usual manual control mechanism for changing -the time of the spark independently of the centrifugal device.<span class="pagenum" id="Page122">[122]</span> -This manual control is for use principally for retarding the -spark when starting or idling the engine or for facilitating -carburetor adjustments. During normal operation of the -engine, the spark lever on the steering wheel quadrant should -be advanced as far as permissible without causing the engine -to knock, and the actual regulation of the spark position -be left entirely to the automatic advance mechanism. The -arrangement of the manual control is such, provided the -breaker cam is properly set, that when the spark lever is in -the position of full retard, and the engine is running very -slowly, the spark will occur in each cylinder at 5 engine degrees -after the piston has passed the upper dead center of -its compression stroke. With the spark lever advanced to the -limit of its travel on the quadrant, the spark will occur 15 -degrees before the upper dead center position has been reached -by the piston on its compression stroke.</p> - -<p><b>Timing the Distributor.</b>—Whenever it becomes necessary to -disconnect the distributor shaft from the engine pump shaft -the exact relative positions of the two halves of the coupling -joining these two shafts, as well as the location of the distributor -rotor, should be carefully noted and marked. This is -necessary in order to make possible the reëstablishment of -the correct relations between the distributor shaft and the -pump shaft when original conditions are being restored. -Moreover, care must be taken to avoid turning the engine -while the distributor is disconnected, because the proper timing -relations can only be retained by keeping the position of -the pump shaft unchanged during this time.</p> - -<p>Should it ever happen, however, that the distributor has -been taken off without the proper precautions having been -observed, or that the timing arrangement has been disturbed -in any other fashion, it will thereupon become necessary to -make a complete readjustment of the timing relations of the -distributor and the engine. This is to be done always after -the distributor has been reconnected to the engine, the first -step being to ascertain definitely the relative position of the -engine pistons and valves. With this done, the positions of<span class="pagenum" id="Page123">[123]</span> -the breaker cam and the distributor rotor are then to be reset -as directed below.</p> - -<p>Since all the parts of the engine follow a regular sequence -of operation, only the position of the piston and valves in the -No. 1 cylinder need be considered in this process, and the -three remaining cylinders may be practically disregarded. -There are numerous methods, varying in their degree of accuracy, -for locating the position of the engine pistons, but the -most dependable one is that of removing the cylinder head so -as to expose the pistons and valves to full view. With the -head thus removed, the engine should be cranked slowly by -hand until the No. 1 piston has risen to the top of its compression -stroke and has just started to descend on its combustion -stroke. At this moment the spark, when fully retarded, -should normally occur in No. 1 cylinder.</p> - -<p>Under circumstances where it is not convenient or desirable -to remove the cylinder head the following approximate method -for determining the location of No. 1 piston may be employed -with a fair degree of success. Open the cocks of the priming -cups on all the cylinders, and crank the engine slowly by -hand until the No. 1 piston has just reached the top of its -compression stroke. This can be ascertained by holding the -thumb over the No. 1 priming cup and noting carefully the -moment when the compression ceases to increase. After locating -the dead center position of No. 1 piston in this way, -turn the crank shaft a very slight distance further until the -No. 4 exhaust valve is just at the point of closing. Under -these conditions, provided the No. 4 exhaust valve lifter is in -correct adjustment, the No. 1 piston should be approximately -in the desired position of 5 engine degrees beyond dead center.</p> - -<p>With the No. 1 piston thus carefully set in accordance with -one of the above methods, preferably the former, bring the -distributor into the position of full retard. To do this, disconnect -the manual control attachment and turn the break-box -as far as it will go in the direction in which the vertical -shaft rotates. Then after making sure that the ignition -switch is turned off, remove the distributor-head and the distributor<span class="pagenum" id="Page124">[124]</span> -rotor and the breaker box, and with a broad bladed -screw driver back off the breaker cam nut until the cam is -free to turn on its shaft. Next, replace the rotor temporarily, -and turn the cam slowly until the breaker contacts just -begin to open when the rotor occupies the position where -it normally makes contact with the No. 1 distributor terminal. -This adjustment can be made to the best advantage by turning -the cam forward to separate the contacts then back again -slowly until the contacts just come together, at which point -the cam should be allowed to remain.</p> - -<p>After the proper setting has thus been obtained, remove -the rotor again and lock the cam securely in position by -tightening the slotted nut that holds it. Finally, replacing -the rotor, rock the vertical shaft backward and forward as -far as the slack in the gears will permit, and note carefully -the action of the break contacts. The setting of the cam -must be so accurate that when the gears are rocked forward -to take up the slack, the contacts will be just held apart and -yet when the gears are rocked backward as far as the slack -permits, the contacts will be actually closed.</p> - -<p>A convenient method of verifying this adjustment is to turn -on the ignition current and connect an ordinary 14 or 16 volt -2. c. p. lamp across the two binding posts of the breaker -box. The lamp thus attached, will serve as a sensitive indicator -for representing the action of the contact-points when -the vertical shaft is rocked forward and backward to take -up the slack in the gears. The moment the contacts begin to -be separated, the lamp will light; but as soon as they are -allowed to come together the lamp will at once go out again.</p> - -<p>Should the test prove the first setting to be inaccurate, the -cam must be readjusted, and the test repeated several times -if necessary until the correct setting is finally obtained. Too -much care cannot be employed in making this adjustment, -because even a very slight inaccuracy in the setting of the -cam will produce a considerably magnified effect upon the -operation of the engine. This is due to the fact that the -engine speed is twice as great as that of the vertical shaft.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page125">[125]</span></p> - -<p><b>General Care.</b>—Under normal operating conditions the ignition -system requires very little care aside from the usual -precautions against moisture and dirt. There are, in fact, but -three points of importance that need attention during service:</p> - -<p class="blankbefore75">1. Lubrication.</p> - -<p>2. Cleaning and adjustment of the breaker contacts.</p> - -<p>3. Inspection of the wiring and the spark plugs.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page126">[126]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XIX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ATWATER KENT IGNITION SYSTEMS</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Construction, Operation and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Atwater Kent ignition systems have been adopted of late -by many prominent automobile manufacturers as a means of -distributing or conveying electrical spark to the cylinders at -the proper firing time.</p> - -<p>This type of quick break distributing system has proved -very efficient and dependable, and will usually outlast the -life of the motor as there are very few moving parts, which -eliminates troubles caused by worn parts getting out of adjustment.</p> - -<p>This type of ignition system operates in much the same -manner as the high tension magneto, and differs only in -that the parts have been taken from the compact magneto -case and distributed in other locations in separate units. As -this type takes its current from the lighting and starting battery, -it does not contain an armature or field magnets to manufacture -the electrical force.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig66">Fig. 66</a> illustrates the principles of operation of the type -CC Atwater Kent closed circuit system, which consists of the -unisparker containing the contact maker and distributor. The -only moving parts are located in this unit. The coil consists -of a soft iron core, with a primary and secondary winding -sealed in an insulated tube or container. A resistance unit -is located in the top and regulates the current automatically. -The system is controlled by a switch located on the dash. -The contact breaker shown in <a href="#Fig67">Fig. 67</a> consists of an exceedingly -light steel contact arm. One end rests on a hardened -steel cam which rotates one-half as fast as the crank shaft.<span class="pagenum" id="Page127">[127]</span> -This cam has as many sides as the engine has cylinders. -When the contact points are opened by the movement of the -cam the primary circuit is broken and produces a discharge of -secondary high tension current at one of the spark plug -gaps.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig66"> - -<img src="images/illo148.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w25emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="center">CONTACT<br>MAKER</td> -<td class="left top">TO PLUG <span class="righttext">TO PLUG</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">DISTRIBUTOR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">CONDENSER</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">TO PLUG</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">CONTACT MAKER<br>GROUNDED</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">SPARK PLUG</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">BATTERY<br>GROUND</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">PRIMARY</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">BATTERY</td> -<td class="right">GROUND</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">SECONDARY</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">GROUND</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">REGULATING<br>RESISTANCE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 66. Atwater Kent Circuit Diagram—Type CC</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig68">Fig. 68</a> shows the simple Atwater Kent contactless distributor. -The high tension distributor of the Atwater-Kent -system forms the top of the contact maker. Each spark plug -wire terminates in an electrode, which passes through the -distributor cap. A rotating distributor block takes the high<span class="pagenum" id="Page128">[128]</span> -tension current from the central terminal and distributes it -to the spark plugs in proper firing order. The distributor -block or arm does not make direct contact with the distributor -posts. The current jumps the small gap between the distributor -block and the terminal electrodes and does away with -frictional wear resulting from actual contact.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig67"> - -<img src="images/illo150a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 67. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Type CC</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig68"> - -<img src="images/illo150b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 68. Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page129">[129]</span></p> - -<p><a href="#Fig69">Fig. 69</a> shows the method of connecting the high tension -wires to the distributor; the insulation is removed, or the -wire bared in a space 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>″ long. The removable terminal -cover is pushed up on the wire as shown at A, the bared end -of the wire is then passed through the hole in the secondary -terminal as shown at B. The end of this wire is then twisted -back on itself, for two complete turns as shown at C, so -that the end will not project beyond the diameter of the insulation. -The wire will then be tightly held when the terminal -covers are screwed down as shown in Fig. D. Never use -pliers to tighten these covers and do not solder the wires to -the terminal posts.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig69"> - -<img src="images/illo151.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 69. Distributor Wire Connections to Distributor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Adjustment.</b>—The only parts of this system that are adjustable -are the contact points. These need to be adjusted -only for natural wear. Do not adjust the points unless you -are convinced, by trying everything else, that it is the points -that need attention.</p> - -<p>In making adjustments, note the following directions. The -normal gap between the points should not be less than .005″, -or more than .008″, the standard setting is .006″, which is<span class="pagenum" id="Page130">[130]</span> -about the thickness of two ordinary sheets of writing paper.</p> - -<div class="container w20em" id="Fig70"> - -<img src="images/illo152.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<p class="right">TO UNGROUNDED<br> -TERMINAL OF BATTERY</p> - -<p class="noindent">SWITCH</p> - -<p class="center">COIL</p> - -<p class="right">DISTRIBUTOR</p> - -<p class="center">GROUND</p> - -<p class="right">CONTACT<br> -MAKER</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 70. Atwater Kent Type CC Wiring Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The contact points are made of tungsten steel, the hardest -known metal. When contact points are working properly -small particles of tungsten steel will be carried from one -point to the other, which sometimes causes a roughness and -a dark gray coloring of the surfaces. This roughness does -not in any way effect the proper working of the points, owing -to the fact that the rough surfaces fit into each other perfectly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page131">[131]</span></p> - -<p>It should not be necessary to file or redress the points unless -they become burned, due to some abnormal condition or -accident. The dark gray appearance is the natural color of -the tungsten steel.</p> - -<p><b>Oilings.</b>—A very small amount of ordinary vaseline or -grease applied to the cam and a drop or two of oil applied -to the cups every few weeks, is all the lubrication necessary. -Do not get oil on the contact points, and wipe off any free -oil or grease on the contact maker.</p> - -<p>The springs in this system are set at exactly the right tension. -Do not try to bend or tamper with them.</p> - -<p>The wiring of the type CC ignition system is very simple, -as shown in <a href="#Fig70">Fig. 70</a>, and is known as the one wire with ground -return method. Well insulated primary wire is used for the -primary circuit between the coil and the ignition switch. The -best quality of five-sixteenth inch secondary wire is used to -conduct the high tension current from the coil to the distributor, -and from the distributor to the spark plug.</p> - -<p><b>Setting or Timing the Type CC System.</b>—The piston in -number one cylinder should be raised to high dead center, -between the compression and firing strokes, the clamp which -holds the unisparker should be loosened and the unisparker -turned backward, or opposite the rotating direction of the -timer shaft until the contact points commence to open. The -spark occurs at the exact instant of the opening of the point.</p> - -<p>After completing the electrical connection the current can -be turned on, and the unisparker timed exactly from the -spark at the plugs. For this purpose the plugs should be -removed from the engine and laid on top of the cylinders.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page132">[132]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ATWATER KENT IGNITION SYSTEM, TYPE K-2</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The operating principle of the Atwater Kent ignition -system type K-2, differs from type CC system in that it -operates on the open circuit plan, whereas the type CC -system explained in the preceding chapter, operates on the -closed circuit plan.</p> - -<p>A-K ignition system type K-2 consists of three parts:</p> - -<p>No. 1. The unisparker combining the special contact maker, -a condenser, and a high tension distributor.</p> - -<p>No. 2. The coil, consisting of a simple primary and secondary -winding, and a condenser. These parts are all imbedded -in a special insulating compound. The coil has no vibrator -or other moving parts.</p> - -<p>No. 3. The ignition switch. This switch controls the system -by opening and closing the primary current.</p> - -<p><b>The Principle of the Atwater Kent System.</b>—The function -of this system is to produce a single hot spark for each -power impulse of the motor. It differs from other types of -battery ignition systems in that the contact points do not -touch except during the brief instant of the spark. The -ignition circuit is, therefore, normally open, whence the name -“open circuit” results. The contact maker consists of a pair -of contact points, normally open, which are connected in -series with a battery, and the primary circuit of the non-vibrating -induction coil. The mechanism for operating the -contacts consists of a notched shaft having one notch for -each cylinder, rotating at one-half the engine speed, a lifter -which is pulled forward by the rotation of the shaft, and a -coil spring which pulls the lifter back to its original position -after it has been drawn forward and released by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page133">[133]</span> -notched shaft; hardened steel latch, against which the lifter -strikes on its recoil and which in turn operates the contact -points.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig71"> - -<img src="images/illo155a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" class="w33pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">LATCH</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CONTACT<br>SCREW</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">NOTCHED<br>SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">LIFTER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">CONTACT<br>SPRING</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">LIFTER<br>SPRING</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 71. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type -K-2 System.</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w20em" id="Fig72"> - -<img src="images/illo155b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 72. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 -System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w20em" id="Fig73"> - -<img src="images/illo156a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 73. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 -System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w20em" id="Fig74"> - -<img src="images/illo156b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 74. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 -System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Operation of the Contact Maker.</b>—It will be noted in <a href="#Fig71">Fig. -71</a> that the lifter is being pulled forward by the notched -shaft. When pulled forward as far as the shaft will carry it -(<a href="#Fig72">Fig. 72</a>), the lifter is suddenly pulled back by the lifter -spring. In returning, it strikes against the latch, throwing -this against the contact spring and closes the contact for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page134">[134]</span> -brief instant. This movement is far too quick for the naked -eye to follow (<a href="#Fig73">Fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig74">Fig. 74</a> shows the lifter ready to be pulled forward by the -next notch.</p> - -<p>Note that the circuit is closed only during the brief instant -of the spark. No current can flow at any other time, not -even if the switch is left on when the motor is not running. -No matter how slow or how fast the notched shaft is turning, -the lifter spring will always pull the lifter back at exactly -the same speed, so that the operation of the contact, and therefore<span class="pagenum" id="Page135">[135]</span> -the spark, will always be the same no matter how fast -or how slow the engine is running. The brief instant that -the contact points touch, results in very little current consumption. -The high tension current from the coil is conveyed -to the rotating distributor block, which seats on the end of the -unisparker shaft to each of the spark plug terminals in the -order of firing.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig75"> - -<img src="images/illo157.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 75. Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The important advantage which the distributor possesses is -the fact that there are no sliding contacts or carbon brushes. -The distributor blade is so arranged that it passes close to -the spark plug terminals without quite touching (as shown in -<a href="#Fig75">Fig. 75</a>), thus permitting the spark to jump the slight gap -without any loss of current pressure. This also eliminates all -wear and trouble caused by sliding or rubbing contacts.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig76">Fig. 76</a> shows the wire connections and direction of current -flowage. The distributor blade is about to make contact -with the terminal leading to the spark plug in No. 2 -cylinder. At the instant that contact is made the breaker -points in the contact maker shown in the lower part of the -diagram close, thus allowing a primary or low tension current -to flow between the contact maker, coil, and battery. The -sudden breaking of this current occurs when the points open -again, thereby creating a current of high tension voltage in -the secondary coil which is conducted to the center terminal -of the distributor where it is distributed to the spark plug<span class="pagenum" id="Page136">[136]</span> -terminals through the rotation of the distributor blade. The -high tension cables leading from the distributor are heavily -insulated, thus the current in seeking ground return chooses -the easiest path, by jumping the slight gap at the spark -plugs.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig76"> - -<img src="images/illo158.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">DISTRIBUTOR</p> - -<p class="right">GROUND</p> - -<p class="center">COIL</p> - -<p class="right">BATTERY</p> - -<p class="noindent">CONTACT MAKER</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 76. Atwater Kent Wiring Diagram Type K-2</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Setting and Timing the Unisparker.</b>—The type K-2 unisparker -is installed, so as to allow a small amount of angular -movement or, in other words, the socket into which the unisparker -fits is provided with a clamp which will permit it to -be turned or locked in any given position.</p> - -<p><b>Timing.</b>—The piston in No. 1 cylinder is raised to high dead -center between the compression and power stroke. Then -loosen the clamp which holds the unisparker and turn the unisparker -backward, or contrary to the direction of rotation -until a click is heard. This click happens at the exact instant -of the spark. Clamp the unisparker tight at this point -being careful not to change its position. Note that current -for this system is usually supplied by the starting and lighting -battery. When changing batteries be sure that the voltage -of the battery is the same as that marked on the coil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page137">[137]</span></p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig77"> - -<img src="images/illo159.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center"><span class="smcap">To Plugs</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center"><span class="smcap">To Plugs</span></td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center"><span class="smcap">Contact-<br>maker</span></td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Switch</span></td> -<td class="center"><span class="smcap">Contact Maker</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">BAT.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center bot">S & INT. INT. S.</td> -<td class="center bot">INT. INT.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">COIL</td> -<td class="center">SEC</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right"><span class="smcap">Ground To Motor</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right"><span class="smcap">Ground to Motor</span></td> -<td class="center">POS NEG</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">BATTERY</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 77. Atwater Kent K-2 Wiring—Cut 1, Under Hood Coil; Cut 2, -Kick Switch Coil</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The external wiring of the A-K type K-2 is very simple, -as shown in the diagrams, <a href="#Fig77">Figs. 77 and 77A</a>. Fig. 77 shows -the wire connections, when the reversing switch and under-hood -coil is used. Fig. 77A shows the connections, when using -plate or kick switch coil. A well insulated braided primary -wire is used for the primary or battery circuit. See that this -wire is well protected against rubbing or abrasion wherever it<span class="pagenum" id="Page138">[138]</span> -comes into contact with metal parts of the car. When the -starting and lighting battery is used to furnish the ignition -current, two wires should run directly to the battery terminals.</p> - -<p>The two types of Atwater Kent systems described are provided -with automatic spark advance mechanism. Provisions -are also made for manual lever control, by simply connecting -the unisparker to the throttle lever at the base of the -steering gear.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig78"> - -<img src="images/illo160.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 78. Atwater Kent Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—A K -Type K-2</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig78">Fig. 78</a> shows the automatic spark advance mechanism. It -is located on the underside of the contact maker base plate, -and consists of a set of weights which swing out from the -center against spring tension, and advances the unisparker on -the shaft, according to the amount of centrifugal action or -speed of the shaft. When the shaft is not in motion the -springs draw the weights toward center, which automatically -shifts the unisparker on the shaft until the spark is in a fully -retarded position.</p> - -<p><b>Contact Point Adjustment.</b>—The only adjustment aside -from the initial timing is in the contact points. They are adjustable -only for natural wear, and one adjustment should -last at least six months. The contact screw is provided with -a number of shim washers against which it is set up tight. -When the points eventually become worn, they should be -dressed flat and smooth. A sufficient number of the washers<span class="pagenum" id="Page139">[139]</span> -should be removed so that when the contact screw is set up -tightly it will maintain the proper gap between the points. -The distance between the contact points should be about the -distance of a thin visiting card. They should never touch -when at rest.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig79"> - -<img src="images/illo161.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w08emmax"> - -<p class="center">Oil lightly every<br> -1000 miles</p> - -<p class="noindent">Oil</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 79. Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Oiling Diagram—A-K Type K-2</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig79">Fig. 79</a> shows an oiling diagram of the contact maker. -The latch, lifter, and lifter spring are not adjustable or subject -to wear. They should be well cleaned and oiled every -five hundred miles. Use a light oil and avoid getting it on -the contact points.</p> - -<p><b>The Condenser.</b>—The condenser of this system acts somewhat -like a shock absorber to the contact points. It absorbs -the spark or arc and makes the break in the primary current, -clean and abrupt. The condenser is very accessible, but -should never be tampered with, as it does not require any -attention.</p> - -<p><b>Testing for Ignition Trouble.</b>—If the engine misses without -regard to speed, test each cylinder separately by short -circuiting the plug with a screw driver, allowing a spark to -jump. If all cylinders produce a good regular spark the -trouble is not with the ignition system.</p> - -<p>If any cylinder sparks regularly this will indicate that the -ignition system is in working order so far as the unisparker -and coil are concerned. The trouble is probably in the high -tension wiring between the distributor and plug, or in the -plugs themselves. Examine the plugs and wiring carefully.<span class="pagenum" id="Page140">[140]</span> -Leaky secondary wiring is frequently the cause of missing and -backfiring.</p> - -<p>Frequently, when high tension wires are run from the distributor -to the spark plugs through a metal tube, trouble is -experienced with missing and backfiring, which is due to induction -between the various wires in the tube. This is -especially likely to happen if the main secondary wire from -the distributor to the coil runs through this tube with the -spark plug wires.</p> - -<p>Whenever possible the distributor wires should be separated -by at least one-half inch of space. They should be supported -by bracket insulators, rather than run through a tube. -In no case should the main distributor wire run through a -conduit with other wires.</p> - -<p>If irregular sparking is noted at the spark plugs, examine -the battery and connections.</p> - -<p>If the trouble commences suddenly, it is probably due to a -loose connection in the wiring, if gradually, the battery may -be weakening or the contact points may require attention.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page141">[141]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">PHILBRIN SINGLE SPARK IGNITION SYSTEM</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Operation, Adjustment and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The Philbrin ignition system consists of a specially designed -contact maker and interrupter, a distributor mounted on the -same shaft, a nonvibrating heat and moisture proof coil, an -armored heat, moisture, and puncture proof condenser, and a -special Duplex switch.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig80"> - -<img src="images/illo163.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 80. Philbrin Contact Maker—Point Adjustment</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig80">Fig. 80</a> shows an illustration of the Philbrin contact maker -which operates in this manner. The cam A strikes against the -end of the plunger B and forces the points together at C, -and holds the contact for approximately three and one-half -degrees of the revolution of the cam. The spark occurs -simultaneously with the separation of the contact points. -The contact maker has but one adjustment; that of the adjustable -contact screw, which is in direct line with the contact<span class="pagenum" id="Page142">[142]</span> -plunger. The contact points are brought together gradually -by the surface formation of the cam. When the point of -ample saturation of the coil is reached, the breaking of the -contacts is instantaneous. The duration of the spark is in -proportion to the speed of the engine, but breaking of the -points is always instantaneous and entirely independent of -the engine’s speed thereby producing the required spark at all -speeds without any spark lag.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig81"> - -<img src="images/illo164.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 81. Philbrin Contact Maker and Distributor Blade</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig81">Fig. 81</a> shows the distributor blade mounted over the contact -maker. The distributor blade is so arranged that it -clears the spark plug lead terminals in the cover by a slight -margin, and does not make actual contact, thereby eliminating -all friction due to such contacts.</p> - -<p><b>Operation.</b>—Turning on the switch sets up a low tension -current in the coil and primary wire coil when the contact -points close. The sudden breaking of this current -causes demagnetism of the core and the primary coil to set -up a high tension current in the secondary coil. This current -is led to the distributor blade and passes to the spark -plug terminals as the blade comes in contact range.</p> - -<p>The Philbrin high frequency system uses the same coil and -distributor as the single spark system. But as the circuits<span class="pagenum" id="Page143">[143]</span> -of the two systems are entirely distinct and separate, they -do not conflict with each other. The high frequency system -has its own condenser and interrupter located in the switch -case, and supplies a continuous flow of sparks.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig82"> - -<img src="images/illo165.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 82. Switch Case</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig82">Fig. 82</a> shows the interior of the switch case. This part of -the mechanism controls the interruption of the battery current. -The current is supplied to the interruptor through a -polarity reverser, which reverses the direction of the current -each time the switch button is turned. This equalizes the -wear on the contact points.</p> - -<p>Attention is again called to the distributor blade shown in -<a href="#Fig82">Fig. 82</a>, which is used for both systems. Because of the shape -of this blade, there is a continuous flow of sparks after the -explosive spark has been delivered to one cylinder until the -forward edge of the distributor blade is within range of the -distributing point of the next terminal. By this action the -first spark delivered to the cylinder is an efficient one, and -the follow up continues at intervals of approximately one-thousandth -of a second. These sparks are all perfectly -synchronous.</p> - -<p>The operation of the high frequency system does not differ<span class="pagenum" id="Page144">[144]</span> -in function action from the single spark system explained on -the foregoing page. Either system may be had singly, or -in duplex formation. Consequently either the single or the -double system may be encountered. When the duplex system -is used the driver has his choice and can use either the high -frequency or single spark system, by turning the rubber -roll switch on the distributor to the system indicated.</p> - -<p>This follow-up feature has been found particularly advantageous -for starting in cold weather, or where a poor grade -of gasoline is encountered, and in case of a poor carburetor -adjustment or foul spark plugs. The high frequency system -also has the unique feature of keeping the spark plugs clean -without disintegrating the electroids, as is often the case with -the high tension magneto.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig83"> - -<img src="images/illo166.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 83. Duplex High Frequency Switch</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig83">Fig. 83</a> shows the Duplex switch. Ordinarily a storage -battery is used for one source of current, and a set of dry -cells for the other. This is so arranged that either source -of current can be used with either the single spark system -or the high frequency system at will. One source of current -only can be used if so desired, that is, the storage battery -only or the dry cells alone. Where the source of current is<span class="pagenum" id="Page145">[145]</span> -dry cells only, the single spark system is used as it is more -economical in current consumption. All of the switch contacts -are of the pressure plunger type, thereby eliminating the -uncertainty of brush contacts. Each switch is provided with -a lock operating through the hub of the lever. When the -switch is locked in the off position it is impossible to remove -the cover without breaking it as the cover of the switch locks -to the back.</p> - -<p>Ratchet buttons select which one of the systems is to be -used, by a movement of 45°. This button operates only in -a clock-wise direction.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig84"> - -<img src="images/illo167.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w45emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="4" class="w10pc"> -<col span="3" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6" class="highline3"> </td> -<td rowspan="6" class="left top">C-2 Circuit 2<br> -C-1 Circuit 1<br> -Bat.-1 Battery 1<br> -Bat-2 Battery 2<br> -Sec-Secondary<br> -C-Circuit<br> -Sec. Gr. Secondary<br>Ground</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="right top">To<br>Spark<br>Plugs</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center top">BAT. <span class="fsize150">(</span><span class="horsplit"><span class="top noline">SEC.</span> -<span class="bot">GR.</span></span><span class="fsize150">)</span> C</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">BAT.-2</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">BAT.-1</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">Coil</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">C.R.</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">Distributor</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 84. Philbrin Wiring Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig84">Fig. 84</a> shows a wiring diagram of the Philbrin system. -The wire connections come to the contact maker directly from -the switch, instead of from the coil. This provides for control -of the current to the contact maker in such a manner -that if a short circuit occurs in either of the systems, by -turning a button it is entirely cut off and the other system -put into operation.</p> - -<p>Tungsten contact points are used on the single spark system -as they are not effected by the use of light oil. The contact -points for the high frequency system are platinum-iridium. -They are mounted inside of the switch case and -need little or no attention. The contacts, due to the reversed<span class="pagenum" id="Page146">[146]</span> -polarity, have an extremely long life and can be used without -attention until they are worn down to the base metal. -The duel type of system, however, may be purchased in separate -units, and an owner may choose either the high frequency -system or the single spark system separately if so desired.</p> - -<p>This type of ignition system is manufactured for four, six, -eight, and twelve cylindered cars.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page147">[147]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ELECTRICAL STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEMS</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Construction, Operation and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>A great many different types of mechanical, and compressed -air starters were devised and tried out as equipment -by the manufacturers of automobiles a few years ago. -These devices were either mechanically imperfect, or required -considerable attention from the owner to keep them in -working order and have all but disappeared from the market, -being supplanted by the electrical starter, which has been -perfected to a high state of efficiency and dependability.</p> - -<p>The general principle of all electrical starters is much -alike and they usually operate in much the same manner. -The electrical force or current is produced by a generator -driven from the engine. This current is collected, or held -in storage by chemical reproduction plates in a storage battery. -The battery, in turn, is connected to a small electric -motor carried at the side of the engine.</p> - -<p><b>The Generator.</b>—The operating principle of current production -of the generator is practically the same as explained -in the magneto, which may also be termed a generator or -dynamo.</p> - -<p>A generator consists of an iron frame, a set of magnetic -field windings, a wound armature with a commutator on the -end, and a brush which collects the current from the commutator.</p> - -<p>The current is induced in the armature by rotating it in a -magnetic field. The amount of voltage induced in the armature-coil -depends on its rotating speed, as the faster the armature<span class="pagenum" id="Page148">[148]</span> -turns, the greater the number of magnetic field lines cut, -and the greater the amount of voltage induced in the armature -coil.</p> - -<p><b>The Regulator.</b>—The generator is provided with a regulator -to control the output rate of voltage when the engine is -running at excess speeds. This is necessary to prevent the -higher charging rate from overcoming the capacity of the -storage battery. The regulating of the voltage output may -be accomplished by mechanical or electrical means. The -mechanical regulator usually consists of a governor which -is timed to release the armature from the drive shaft when -the engine reaches a certain rate of speed. The electrical -regulator usually consists of a reversed series of field winding -which acts against the force of the magnetic field, or of -a bucking coil.</p> - -<p><b>The Automatic Cut-out.</b>—All types of generators which -supply current to a storage battery are equipped with an -automatic cut-out arrangement which is entirely automatic in -action and requires no attention.</p> - -<p>The function of the automatic cut-out is to prevent the -current from flowing back to the generator when the current -production of the generator is less than the charged strength -of the storage battery. The cut-out may be located anywhere -on the conductor, between the storage battery and the -generator, and consists of a simple electro-magnet, which is -operated by the direction of current flowage.</p> - -<p><b>One Unit System.</b>—The generator furnishes the current -for ignition and starting, and is also reversible to act as a -starting motor. The system is referred to as a one unit system.</p> - -<p><b>Two Unit System.</b>—When the starting motor and the generator -act singly, and are contained in a separate casting, the -system is referred to as a two unit system.</p> - -<p><b>Three Unit System.</b>—When the generator and starting -motor are located as a separate unit, and when the ignition -current is supplied by a magneto, this system is referred to -as a three unit system.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page149">[149]</span></p> - -<p><b>The Starting Motor.</b>—The starting motor is constructed in -the same manner as the generator, and is simply a reversal -of action. When cranking, the current from the storage battery -flows through the motor winding and magnetizes the -armature core. This acting upon the magnetism of the frame -causes the turning effort.</p> - -<p><b>Lubrication.</b>—Regularly every two weeks, or every five hundred -miles, two or three drops of thin neutral oil should be -dropped into the oil wells supplying the armature bearings -and usually located at each end of the armature shaft.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig85"> - -<img src="images/illo171.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 85. Bijur 2-V System Mounted on Hupmobile Engine</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Care.</b>—Regularly every two weeks, inspect all connections -as a full volume of current will not flow over a loose or corroded -connection. Never allow any oil or dirt to collect on -the motor or generator, as it interferes with the terminal -connection and misdirects the current, and the instrument soon -becomes inoperative.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig85">Fig. 85</a> shows the location of the two unit Bijur electrical -starting and generating system mounted on an engine. The -starting motor is bolted to the flywheel housing, and is provided -with a square armature shaft which carries a pinion<span class="pagenum" id="Page150">[150]</span> -which can be moved horizontally on the shaft. This pinion -meshes directly with teeth cut in the steel flywheel ring. No -intermediate gears or roller clutches are used. The control -lever connects through linkage to the shifting fork which -shifts the pinion on the square shaft of the motor. The -same foot pedal linkage operates the starting switch. Normally -a spring holds the motor pinion out of mesh with the -flywheel teeth and also holds the starting switch in the “off” -position.</p> - -<p><b>The Generator.</b>—The generator is bolted to an extension on -the crank case at the front side of the gas motor, and is -driven by a silent chain from the crank shaft. After the -gas motor attains a speed equivalent to a car speed of ten -miles per hour on high speed, the generator begins to generate, -and will generate a current which is highest at low -speeds, and diminishes somewhat at higher speeds.</p> - -<p>The machines are both self-contained as there are no regulators -or automatic switches which require separate mounting.</p> - -<p>The automatic switch for opening and closing the circuit -between the generator and storage battery is mounted inside -the generator. This switch is properly adjusted before the -generator leaves the factory, and no further adjustments are -necessary.</p> - -<p>Two wires lead from the generator. One of these is connected -at the starting motor to one of the heavy cables coming -from the storage battery, while the other generator wire -is grounded on the chassis, the chassis forming a part of the -circuit. The generator polarity is reversible and the connections -at the machine may be made haphazard and without -regard to polarity. If connections are reversed at the generator, -no damage will result, as the machine will automatically -assume the correct polarity to charge the battery.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig86">Fig. 86</a> shows the position of the Bijur starting system, and -the relative neutral positions of starting pedal, motor pinion, -and starting switch, when the starting equipment is not in -action.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page151">[151]</span></p> - -<p><a href="#Fig86A">Fig. 86A</a> shows the normal position of the various parts -after the starting pedal has been depressed and just before -the starting motor begins to operate. The pinion is now in -full mesh with the flywheel ring and further depressing the -starter pedal will close the switch.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig86"> - -<img src="images/illo173a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w50emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col class="w15pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col span="7" class="w05pc"> -<col span="2" class="w15pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">FOOT PEDAL</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">POSITION 1--OUT OF ACTION. STARTING<br> -SWITCH OFF. PINION UP AGAINST MOTOR<br> -HEAD.</td> -<td colspan="5" class="left">FLYWHEEL</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right">SHIFTING FORK</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="6" class="left">STARTING SWITCH<br> -MOTOR SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">OIL HERE</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">MOTOR</td> -<td colspan="8"> </td> -<td class="left">OIL HERE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="11"> </td> -<td class="left">COLLAR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="11"> </td> -<td class="center">CLEVIS PIN</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="center">SHIFTING ROD</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="center">STOP</td> -<td colspan="6" class="right">SHIFTER SPRING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="10"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">RELEASE SPRING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">OIL DRAIN<br> -KEEP THIS HOLE CLEAR</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">PINION</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">OIL HERE</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="12" class="center">CRANK CASE</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig86A"> - -<img src="images/illo173b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<div class="centerblock"> - -<p class="noindent">POSITION 2--ABOUT TO CRANK.<br> -GEARS HAVE MESHED BUT<br> -SWITCH HAS NOT YET MADE CONTACT.</p> - -</div><!--centerblock--> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 86. Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig87">Fig. 87</a> shows all the parts in their positions for cranking. -The small gap between the collar on the shifting rod and<span class="pagenum" id="Page152">[152]</span> -clevis pin permits the switch rod to move and thus open -the starting switch without moving the motor pinion when -the starting pedal is released.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig87"> - -<img src="images/illo174b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<div class="centerblock"> - -<p class="noindent">POSITION 2A—ABOUT TO CRANK.<br> -GEARS NOT YET MESHED, TEETH<br> -ARE BUTTING, BUT SWITCH HAS<br> -MADE CONTACT. SHIFTER SPRING<br> -STRONGLY COMPRESSED READY<br> -TO DRAW PINION INTO MESH.</p> - -</div><!--centerblock--> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig87A"> - -<img src="images/illo174a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<div class="centerblock"> - -<p class="noindent">POSITION 3—CRANKING, NOTE<br> -GAP BETWEEN COLLAR ON<br> -SHIFTING ROD AND CLEVIS PIN.<br> -SHIFTING FORK IS UP AGAINST<br> -STOP AND SHIFTER SPRING IS<br> -SLIGHTLY COMPRESSED.</p> - -</div><!--centerblock--> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 87. Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig87A">Fig. 87A</a> shows the condition when on depressing the foot -pedal, and sliding the pinion on the motor shaft towards the -flywheel the pinion does not mesh with the flywheel, and the -teeth butt. Depressing the foot pedal will close the starting -switch strongly compressing the shifter spring. After the<span class="pagenum" id="Page153">[153]</span> -switch is closed the motor will begin to rotate and allow -the pinion to slip into mesh with the flywheel. The motor -will then crank in the normal way.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig88"> - -<img src="images/illo175.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w50emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="5" class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">HEAD LAMP</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">MOTOR</td> -<td class="left">SWITCH TERMINAL<br> -GROUNDED</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">GENERATOR</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">STARTING<br> -SWITCH</td> -<td class="center">BATTERY</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">IGNITION SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">INTERRUPTOR<br> -AND<br> -DISTRIBUTOR</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">SPARK PLUGS</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">REAR LAMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">HORN</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">COIL</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">INSTRUMENT LAMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">HEAD LAMP</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">HORN BUTTON</td> -<td class="right">LIGHTING SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 88. Wiring Diagram Model N—Hupmobile</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig88">Fig. 88</a> shows a complete diagram of the Model N Hupmobile -wiring system.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page154">[154]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ELECTRIC STARTING AND LIGHTING EQUIPMENT</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><a href="#Fig89">Fig. 89</a> shows a diagram of the Bijur lighting and starting -system on the Jeffrey “Chesterfield-six.” The generator -supplies current for the lights and charges a storage battery -when the gas motor is running at speeds equivalent to -ten or more miles per hour on high gear.</p> - -<p>When the gas motor is running at speeds corresponding -to less than ten miles per hour, all currents for lamps are -drawn from the storage battery.</p> - -<p>The starting motor is in operation only during the period -of starting, and remains idle at all other times. The appliances -shown in the <a href="#Fig89">diagram</a> constituting the equipment are -a six volt constant voltage generator, a six volt starting motor, -starting switch, six volt hundred ampere hour battery, lamp -controller, and a high tension magneto. Due to the reversible -characteristics of the generator, no attention need be -paid to the polarity of the wiring when it is removed and -again replaced.</p> - -<p>The starting motor pinion meshes with teeth on the flywheel -when the starting switch mounted on the housing covering -the motor pinion is compressed.</p> - -<p><b>Operation of System Shown in Diagram.</b>—After the gas -motor reaches a speed equivalent to a car speed of approximately -ten miles per hour on the third speed gear, the generator -will generate and maintain a constant voltage, or electrical -pressure at higher speeds and will also maintain this -pressure constant at all loads.</p> - -<p>The current output from the generator at any time will depend -upon the condition of the storage battery. If a car has -been left standing for some time with the lights burning, the -storage battery will become more or less discharged and its -voltage lowered. Under these conditions the generator voltage -or pressure will be higher than that of the battery, forcing -a comparatively high charging current into the battery. -This current may be from 5 to 20 amperes, and the battery -will rapidly approach the fully charged condition.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page155">[155]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig89"> - -<img src="images/illo177.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w60emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w15pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col span="2" class="w15pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col class="w17pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="right"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> LOOM</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">N<sup>o</sup>. 14 -<span class="righttext">N<sup>o</sup>. 10</span></td> -<td class="center"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> LOOM</td> -<td class="center"><span class="padr2">N<sup>o</sup>. 14</span> -N<sup>o</sup>. 10</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> LOOM</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">N<sup>o</sup>. 14</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">RIGHT HEAD LIGHT</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">TERMINAL POSTS</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">FUSES 10 AMPERES</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="right">NEGATIVE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">STORAGE<br> -BATTERY</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">GENERATOR</td> -<td class="center">MAGNETO</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">POSITIVE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">SWITCH</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">CYLINDERS</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">BATT - -<span class="righttext">LIGHTING<br> -SWITCH</span></td> -<td class="right">N<sup>o</sup>. 14</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">N<sup>o</sup>. 14 -<span class="padl8">BATT +</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">TONNEAU LIGHT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">GROUND</td> -<td class="center">N<sup>o</sup>. 10</td> -<td class="center">GROUND FUSE</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">MAGNETO SWITCH</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">N<sup>o</sup>. 18 DUPLEX</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">N<sup>o</sup>. 14</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">DASH & EXTENSION<br> -LIGHT</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">N<sup>o</sup>. 10</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">AMMETER</td> -<td class="right">N<sup>o</sup>. 0</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="right">HORN BUTTON</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">REAR LIGHT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">HEAD LIGHT</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">MOTOR</td> -<td class="right">STARTING SWITCH</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">HORN</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">2<sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> LOOM</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 89. Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey-Chesterfield Six</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page156">[156]</span></p> - -<p>As a battery becomes charged its voltage increases reducing -the difference in pressure between the generator and battery -and decreasing the charging current to the battery.</p> - -<h3>ELECTRIC STARTING AND LIGHTING OPERATION</h3> - -<p>Current from the generator passes through an ammeter -and this meter shows the current being supplied to the battery -and the lights, or to the battery only when no lights are -in operation.</p> - -<p><b>Starting Motor.</b>—The starting motor is provided with a -square shaft and carries a pinion which can be moved horizontally -on this shaft. This pinion meshes directly with teeth -cut on the flywheel.</p> - -<p>The starting pedal located at the driver’s seat connects -through linkage to fork which shifts the link on the square -shaft of the motor. The same foot pedal linkage operates -the starting switch. Normally a spring holds the motor -pinion out of mesh with the flywheel teeth, and also holds the -starting switch in an “off” position.</p> - -<p><b>Operation of the Starter.</b>—Depressing the starter, one -pedal operates the starting switch and makes a preliminary -contact which connects the starting motor to the storage battery -through a resistance located inside of the starting switch. -This resistance permits a small amount of current to pass -through the starting motor, causing its armatures to rotate -at relatively slow speed. This slow rotation insures proper -meshing of the pinion and flywheel teeth when they are -brought into engagement. Depressing the foot pedal also -shifts the pinion on the square shaft of the motor so as -to bring it into contact with the teeth on the flywheel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page157">[157]</span></p> - -<p>When the pinion is in full mesh with the teeth on the fly, -the moving contact in the starting switch has traveled to a -position where the resistance is cut out of the circuit, connecting -the storage battery directly to the starting motor. The -starting motor will then spin the gas motor.</p> - -<p><b>Starting.</b>—First see that the necessary adjustments have -been made, then depress the starting foot pedal as far as it -will go and hold it firmly in place until the gas motor starts. -The instant the gas motor begins firing the foot pedal should -be released. The starting pedal should be pressed as far as -it will go without any pausing on the downward stroke.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig90">Fig. 90</a> shows diagram of operation and wiring of the -Bijur electrical system used on Jeffery 4-cylinder car.</p> - -<p>If the pinion and flywheel teeth do not mesh properly -do not hold the starting pedal down, release it and after a -few seconds pause, depress the pedal again.</p> - -<p>If the gas motor does not start firing promptly after spinning -it with the electric motor, do not continue to spin it, -but see that the proper adjustments for starting have been -made and that there is gasoline in the carburetor, and that the -ignition is in working order.</p> - -<p>Continued spinning of the gas motor by the electric motor -will not damage the electrical equipment but constitutes a useless -drain on the storage battery and should be avoided.</p> - -<p><b>Wiring.</b>—<a href="#Fig90">Fig. 90</a> shows the circuits for all electric appliances -on the Jeffrey-4 car. The various units are wired on -the two-wire system. The “out of focus” filaments in the head -lamp bulbs are wired on the three-wire system, the chassis -acting as a neutral wire, one side of the “out of focus” filament -being grounded in the head lamps. The “in focus” -filaments are on the two-wire system.</p> - -<p>The dash lamp is on the tail lamp circuit and is so arranged -that these two lamps are always in operation when -any combination of head lamp filaments are in use.</p> - -<p><b>Fuse Circuits.</b>—Each head lamp is separately fused, the -current for both filaments in each head lamp bulb passing -through one fuse.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page158">[158]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig90"> - -<img src="images/illo180.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w70emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w16pc"> -<col span="3" class="w10pc"> -<col class="w16pc"> -<col class="w22pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="center">GROUND TO OIL PIPE</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">GROUNDED TO INSTRUMENT<br> -ASSEMBLY</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">RIGHT HEAD LIGHT</td> -<td class="left">GENERATOR</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="left">DASH LAMP</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">INDICATOR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">CYLINDERS<br> -1 2 3 4</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">CONNECTIONS THROUGH SWITCH -IN “DIM” POSITION</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">FUSE AND<br> -JUNCTION BLOCK</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left bot">HORN</td> -<td class="left">CONNECTIONS THROUGH SWITCH -IN “ON” POSITION</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">MAGNETO</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">HORN BUTTON</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center bot">MOTOR</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center bot">STARTING SWITCH</td> -<td class="left bot">BATTERY</td> -<td class="left">WIRING FOR 6-CYLINDER MODEL -661 IS THE SAME AS FOR 4-CYLINDER -MODEL 462, EXCEPT FOR HIGH TENSION -LEADS BETWEEN MAGNETO -AND SPARK PLUGS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">LEFT HEAD LIGHT</td> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">NOTE:—DOTTED LINES INDICATE PERMANENT -CONNECTIONS BETWEEN FUSE -CABINET, DASH LAMP, CURRENT INDICATOR -AND SWITCH. CONNECTIONS AS SHOWN -FACING FUSE CABINET.</td> -<td colspan="3" class="center bot">SWITCH GROUNDED</td> -<td class="right top">REAR</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 90. Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey-Four</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page159">[159]</span></p> - -<p>Separate fuses are provided for the electric horn circuit and -for the rear lamp circuit. The push button for operating the -electric horn is mounted on the center of the steering post.</p> - -<p><b>Ground Fuse.</b>—A fuse is located in the ground circuit -between the lamp controller and the magneto top to ground.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig91"> - -<img src="images/illo181.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 91. Hydrometer Syringe</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Lamp Controller.</b>—A pair of wires from the terminals of -the storage battery connect to the five position lamp controller. -All lighting circuits connected to this controller -which may be locked in any of the five positions.</p> - -<p>Oiling should be practiced regularly every two weeks or -every five hundred miles. Two or three drops of thin neutral -oil should be put in each of the two oilers of the motor and -in each of the two oilers of the generator. Do not flood the -bearings with oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page160">[160]</span></p> - -<p>At the same time the starting motor shaft should be oiled. -An oil hole is provided in the top of the starting motor gear -case and about ten drops of cylinder oil should be used.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig91">Fig. 91</a> shows a hydrometer syringe used for determining -the specific gravity or density of the solutions in the battery -cells.</p> - -<p>To take specific gravity readings unscrew the filler or vent -plug and insert the tube into the cell and release bulb slowly -to draw the acid solution into the chamber until the hydrometer -floats. The enlarged graduated stem shows a reading -of 1.280 at the point where it emerges from the solution. -After testing, the solution must be returned to the cell from -which it was taken. Specific readings above 1200 show the -battery more than half charged.</p> - -<p>Gravity below 1.150 indicates battery completely discharged -or run down.</p> - -<p>Should the gravity fall below 1.150 the gas motor should be -given a long run to restore the battery.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page161">[161]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXIV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">NORTH EAST STARTER SYSTEM USED ON DODGE -BROTHERS’ CARS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The North East starter system shown in <a href="#Fig91A">Fig. 91<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub></a> comprises -the North East Model G starter-generator and the combined -starting switch and reverse current cut-out. This equipment -serves to start the engine and provide current for the lamps -and other electrical accessories as well as for the ignition -system. The battery as the source of current while the engine -is not in operation or is running slowly; but at all -engine speeds above 350 R. P. M. the starter-generator supplies -current for the entire electrical system.</p> - -<p><b>Wiring.</b>—In the accompanying wiring diagrams the starting -circuit is represented by the very heavy cables; the -charging circuit, where it does not coincide with the starting -circuit, by the cables of medium weight, and the lighting and -the ignition circuits by the light cables. As will be seen from -the diagrams, the starting circuit extends from the positive -terminal of the battery to the starting switch, and thence, -when the switch is closed, through the starter-generator armature -and field coils back to the negative terminal of the battery -by way of the grounded negative starter-generator terminal, -the car frame, and the battery ground connections. -The charging circuit is identical with the starting circuit except -at the starting switch, where instead of passing from -one switch terminal to the other through the switch contactor -it extends through a parallel path which includes the -reverse current cut-out and the charging indicator. The cable -leading to the lighting and ignition switch is attached to the -positive terminal of the indicator. From this switch the lighting -and the ignition circuits become distinct, and each, after -passing through its proper course, reaches the car frame and -returns through it to the source of supply.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page162">[162]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig91A"> - -<img src="images/illo184.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w65emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w33pc"> -<col span="2" class="w05pc"> -<col span="2" class="w08pc"> -<col class="w05pc"> -<col class="w07pc"> -<col class="w05pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">Charging<br> -Indicator</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Lighting & Ignition<br> -Switch</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Dash<br> -Lamp</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Horn</td> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left top">Head Lamp</td> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left top">Ground -<span class="righttext">Tail<br> -Lamp</span></td> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left top">Ground</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left bot">Horn Button</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Starting Switch<br> -and<br> -Reverse Current<br> -Cut-out</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center bot">Ground</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Ground<br> -Connection</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left top">Ground</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="10" class="left">Head Lamp</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="right">Battery</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Ground</td> -<td class="right">Starter-Generator</td> -<td colspan="8" class="right">Ground Connection</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 91<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>. Dodge Wiring Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page163">[163]</span></p> - -<p>Without exception all the connections of the starting and -lighting system must be made as indicated in this diagram if -entirely satisfactory results are to be obtained from the equipment.</p> - -<p><b>Starter-Generator</b> (<a href="#Fig92">Fig. 92</a>).—The starter-generator is -mounted on the left side of the engine by means of an adjustable -support and a clamping strap. It runs at three times -engine speed, operating directly from the crank shaft through -a silent chain drive. Being a single unit machine, it employs -but one armature with only one commutator, one set of field -windings and one set of brushes for the performance of all of -its functions both as a starter and as a generator.</p> - -<p>While starting the engine it acts as a cumulatively compounded -motor; but while serving as a generator it operates -as a differentially compounded machine with its output positively -controlled through the agency of a Third Brush Regulating -system, supplemented by the differential influence of the -series field upon the shunt field.</p> - -<p>The machine is designed for 12 volt service and, when driven -by the engine, normally begins to deliver current to the battery -as soon as the car speed is brought up to approximately -10 miles per hour. From this point on, the charging rate -rises rapidly with increasing speed until the standard maximum -rate of 6 amperes is reached at a car speed of 16 or 17 -miles per hour. From this speed to 20 or 21 miles per hour -it remains practically constant, but above 21 miles per hour -it decreases gradually until at the upper speed limit of the -engine it may become as low as 3 amperes.</p> - -<p>This charging rate conforms throughout with the standard -recommendations of the battery manufacturers. The early -maximum reached by the starter-generator output provides -amply for the demands of current at ordinary driving speeds; -while the tapering characteristic, which comes into effect at -high speeds, serves to protect the battery from superfluous -charging in instances where cars may be subjected to continuous -high speed service.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page164">[164]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig92"> - -<img src="images/illo186.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w70emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w30pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col span="2" class="w10pc"> -<col class="w16pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w14pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">FIELD COIL</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">TIE ROD</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">ARMATURE</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">FIELD RING</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">FUSE</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">RETAINING PLATE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">CORK PACKING WASHER</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">COMMUTATOR</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">ARMATURE SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">BALL BEARING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6" class="left">SPROCKET</td> -<td class="left">COMMUTATOR-END<br> -HOUSING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">3<sup>RD</sup> BRUSH PLATE<br> -ADJUSTING-STUD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">SPRING END-PLAY<br> -WASHER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">BALL BEARING<br> -LOCKING SLEEVE</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">BEARING-CAP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">FELT<br> -OILING-WASHERS</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">BALL BEARING</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6" class="left">OIL SLINGER.</td> -<td class="center">CLAMP-SCREW</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">3<sup>RD</sup> BRUSH PLATE<br> -CLAMP</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">CRIMPED SPACER</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">COVER-BAND</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">SPROCKET-END HOUSING</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">BRUSH-HOLDER STUD</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">BRUSH</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">BRUSH HOLDER</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 92. North East Model G Starter-Generator</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page165">[165]</span></p> - -<p><b>Adjustment of Charging Rate.</b>—The third brush system is -so constructed as to permit the charging rate to be changed -when desired to a higher or to a lower value than that for -which it is normally adjusted. Such adjustments should not -be attempted by the car owner himself, and should never be -made except in cases of actual necessity where the normal -charging rate does not meet the special service conditions -under which the equipment may be required to operate permanently. -In every instance where there is any reason to believe -that a modification of the rate would be beneficial, the -car owner should refer the equipment to the North East Electric -Company or its nearest branch or service station.</p> - -<p><b>Fuse.</b>—The fuse is located on the commutator end of the -starter-generator. Its purpose is to protect the electrical system -if possible by rendering the starter-generator inoperative -whenever abnormal operating conditions may occur. Due to -its protective function the fuse is always the first point in the -system to be inspected in case the starter-generator ever failed -to produce current. If the fuse is found to be “blown” or -missing, a new one should be applied and the machine given -a preliminary test before further search for trouble is made. -Should the generator fail to deliver current even after a new -fuse has been installed or should the new fuse “blow” when -the machine is in operation, the entire electrical system should -then be inspected thoroughly for possible faults such as open -circuits, improper connections or abnormal grounds. Under -such circumstances the difficulty should always be corrected -before any further attempt is made to operate the equipment.</p> - -<p><b>Precautions Necessary for the Operation Without Battery -in Circuit.</b>—The third brush regulating system requires a -closed charging circuit for the successful performance of its -duties. The battery, therefore, forms an indispensable link -in the system and its presence in circuit is always essential to -the proper operation of the starter-generator. Should the -machine ever have to be operated with the battery disconnected<span class="pagenum" id="Page166">[166]</span> -or with the charging circuit otherwise incomplete, the electrical -system must be protected by rendering the machine inoperative. -This is to be done by removing the fuse from its -clips.</p> - -<p>When the starter-generator thus rendered incapable of producing -current, no ignition current will be available from the -usual sources. Under such circumstances, therefore, the engine -cannot be operated without some provisional source of -ignition current. A battery of nine or ten dry cells will serve -satisfactorily as a temporary substitute provided they are -used for ignition only.</p> - -<p><b>Starting Switch and Reverse Current Cut-out.</b>—The reverse -current cut-out is located in the same case with the -starting switch. This combined switch and cut-out is mounted -near the center of the toe-board where the switch push-rod -button is within convenient reach from the driver’s seat.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page167">[167]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE DELCO ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—BUICK CARS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The motor generator which is located on the right side of -the engine is the principal part of the Delco System. This -consists essentially of a dynamo with two field windings, and -two windings on the armature with two commutators and corresponding -sets of brushes, in order that the machine may -work both as a starting motor, and as a generator for charging -the battery and supplying the lights, horn and ignition. -The ignition apparatus is incorporated in the forward end of -the motor generator. This in no way affects the working of -the generator, it being mounted in this manner simply as a -convenient and accessible mounting. The motor generator has -three distinct functions to perform which are as follows:</p> - -<div class="itemlist"> - -<p>1.—Motoring the generator.</p> - -<p>2.—Cranking the engine.</p> - -<p>3.—Generating electrical energy.</p> - -</div><!--functions--> - -<p id="Ref04">Motoring the generator is accomplished when the ignition -button on the switch is pulled out. This allows current to -come from the storage battery through the ammeter on the -combination switch, causing it to show a discharge. The first -reading of the meter will be much more than the reading after -the armature is turning freely. The current discharging -through the ammeter during this operation is the current required -to slowly revolve the armature and what is used for -the ignition. The ignition current flows only when the contacts -are closed, it being an intermittent current. The maximum -ignition current is obtained when the circuit is first -closed and the resistance unit on the front end of the coil is -cold. The current at this time is approximately 6 amperes, -but soon decreases to approximately 3<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> amperes. Then as -the engine is running it further decreases until at 1000 revolutions -of the engine it is approximately 1 ampere.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page168">[168]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig93"> - -<img src="images/illo190.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w70emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w25pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col class="w45pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="right">LEAD TO SWITCH.</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">TO SHUNT FIELD.</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" class="center">IGNITION COIL.</td> -<td class="right">RESISTANCE UNIT.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">TO THIRD BRUSH.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">TO POS. BATTERY.</td> -<td colspan="3" class="right">DIS. HEAD LOCATING TONGUE.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">TO NO 1 TERMINAL.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">TO NO 2 TERMINAL.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="left">BRUSH OPERATING ROD. -<td class="right">OILER A.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">TO STARTING PEDAL.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">STARTING GEARS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">A</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">FIELD COIL.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="left">OILER B.</td> -<td class="right">DISTRIBUTOR<br> -SHAFT GEAR.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="left">FLY WHEEL.</td> -<td class="right">PUMP SHAFT.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">ARMATURE.</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="right">LUBRICATOR C.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="right">GENERATOR<br> -CLUTCH.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">ROLLER BEARING.</td> -<td colspan="2" class="right">BALL BEARING.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="right">OIL DRAIN.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">ONE WAY CLUTCH BUILT IN<br> -THIS GEAR.</td> -<td class="right">MOTOR COMMUTATOR.</td> -<td class="right">GENERATOR COMMUTATOR.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 93. Delco Motor Generator—Showing Parts</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page169">[169]</span></p> - -<p>This motoring of the generator is necessary in order that -the starting gears may be brought into mesh, and should -trouble be experienced in meshing these gears, do not try to -force them, simply allow the starting pedal to come back -giving the gears time to change their relative positions.</p> - -<p>A clicking sound will be heard during the motoring of the -generator. This is caused by the overrunning of the clutch -in the forward end of the generator which is shown in -<a href="#Fig93">Fig. 93</a>.</p> - -<p>The purpose of the generator clutch is to allow the armature -to revolve at a higher speed than the pump shaft during -the cranking operation and permitting the pump shaft to -drive the armature when the engine is running on its own -power. A spiral gear is cut on the outer face of this clutch -for driving the distributor. This portion of the clutch is -connected by an Oldham coupling to the pump shaft. Therefore -its relation to the pump shaft is always the same and -does not throw the ignition out of time during the cranking -operation.</p> - -<p>The cranking operation takes place when the starting pedal -is fully depressed. This causes the top motor brush to come -in contact with the motor commutator. As this brush arm -lowers, it comes in contact with the gear in the generator -brush arm raising the generator brush from its commutator. -At the same time the current from the storage battery flows -through the heavy series field winding, motor brushes and -motor winding on the armature. The switching in this circuit -is accomplished by means of the top motor brush which is -operated from the starting pedal. (Shown in <a href="#Fig94">Fig. 94</a>).</p> - -<p>This cranking operation requires a heavy current from the -storage battery, and if the lights are on during the cranking -operation, the heavy discharge from the battery causes the -voltage of the battery to decrease enough to cause the lights<span class="pagenum" id="Page170">[170]</span> -to grow dim. This is noticed especially when the battery is -nearly discharged; it also will be more apparent with a stiff -motor or with a loose or poor connection in the battery circuit. -It is on account of this heavy discharge current that the -cranking should not be continued any longer than is necessary, -although a fully charged battery will crank the engine for -several minutes.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig94"> - -<img src="images/illo192.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w12emmax"> - -<p class="center">Brush Operating Rod</p> - -<p class="center">Motor Brush</p> - -<p class="center">Generator Brush</p> - -<p class="center">Generator<br> -Commutator</p> - -<p class="center">Motor Commutator</p> - -<p class="center">Third Brush</p> - -<p class="center">Plate Slotted To Permit<br> -Third Brush Adjustment</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 94. Delco Motor Generator—Diagram of Operation</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>During the cranking operation the ammeter will show a -discharge. This is the current that is used both in the shunt -field winding and the ignition current; the ignition current, -being an intermittent current of comparatively low frequency, -will cause the ammeter to vibrate during the cranking operation.<span class="pagenum" id="Page171">[171]</span> -If the lights are on the meter will show a heavier discharge.</p> - -<p>The main cranking current is not conducted through the -ammeter, as this is a very heavy current and it would be impossible -to conduct this heavy current through the ammeter -and still have an ammeter that is sensitive enough to indicate -accurately the charging current and the current for lights and -ignition.</p> - -<p>As soon as the engine fires the starting pedal should be -released immediately, as the overrunning motor clutch is -operating from the time the engine fires until the starting gears -are out of mesh. Since they operate at a very high speed, if -they are held in mesh for any length of time, there is enough -friction in this clutch to cause it to heat and burn out the -lubricant. There is no necessity for holding the gears in -mesh.</p> - -<p>The motor clutch operates between the flywheel and the -armature pinion for the purpose of getting a suitable gear -reduction between the motor generator and the flywheel. It -also prevents the armature from being driven at an excessively -high speed during the short time the gears are -meshed after the engine is running on its own power.</p> - -<p>This clutch is lubricated by the grease cup A, shown in -<a href="#Fig93">Fig. 93</a>. This forces grease through the hollow shaft to the -inside of the clutch. This cup should be given a turn or two -every week.</p> - -<p>When the cranking operation is finished the top brush is -raised off the commutator when the starting pedal is released. -This throws the starting motor out of action (<a href="#Fig94">Fig. 94</a>). -The top brush comes in contact with the generator commutator, -and the armature is driven by the extension of the -pump shaft.</p> - -<p>At speeds above approximately 7 miles per hour the generator -voltage is higher than the voltage of the storage battery -which causes current to flow from the generator winding -through the ammeter in the charge direction to the storage -battery. As the speed increases up to approximately 20 miles<span class="pagenum" id="Page172">[172]</span> -per hour this charging current increases, but at the higher -speeds the charging current decreases.</p> - -<p id="Ref03"><b>Lubrication.</b>—There are five places to lubricate the Delco -System:</p> - -<div class="itemlist"> - -<p>1. The grease clutch for lubricating the motor clutch.</p> - -<p>2. Hole at B (<a href="#Fig93">Fig. 93</a>) for supplying cup grease for -lubricating the generator clutch and forward armature -bearing.</p> - -<p>3. The oiler C in the rear end cover for lubricating the -bearing on the armature shaft. This should receive -a few drops of oil once a week.</p> - -<p>4. The oil hole in the distributor at A (<a href="#Fig93">Fig. 93</a>) for -lubricating the top bearing of the distributor shaft. -This should receive oil once a week</p> - -<p>5. This is the inside of the distributor head. This should -be lubricated with a small amount of vaseline, carefully -applied two or three times during the first 2000 -miles running of the car, after which it will require -no attention. This is to secure a burnished track for -the rotor brush on the distributor head. This grease -should be sparingly applied and the head wiped clean -from dust and dirt.</p> - -</div><!--itemlist--> - -<p>The combination switch (<a href="#Fig95">Figs. 95</a> and <a href="#Fig96">96</a>) is for the purpose -of controlling the lights, ignition, and the circuit between -the generator and the storage battery. The button next to -the ammeter controls both the ignition and the circuit between -the generator and the storage battery, the latter circuit being -shown in the heavier line as shown on the circuit diagram -(<a href="#Fig98">Fig. 98</a>). The button next to this controls the head lights. -The next button controls the auxiliary lamps in the head -lights. The button on the left controls the cowl and tail -lights.</p> - -<p>The circuit breaker is mounted on the combination switch as -shown in <a href="#Fig96">Fig. 96</a>. This is a protective device, which takes -the place of a fuse block and fuses. It prevents the discharging<span class="pagenum" id="Page173">[173]</span> -of the battery or damage to the switch or wiring to -the lamps, in the event of any of the wires leading to these -becoming grounded. As long as the lamps are using the normal -amount of current the circuit breaker is not affected. -But in the event of any of the wires becoming grounded an -abnormally heavy current is conducted through the circuit -breaker, thus producing a strong magnetism which attracts -the pole piece and opens the contacts. This cuts off the flow -of current which allows the contacts to close again and the -operation is repeated, causing the circuit breaker to pass an -intermittent current and give forth a vibrating sound.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig95"> - -<img src="images/illo195a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 95. Delco Ignition Switch Plate</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig96"> - -<img src="images/illo195b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<p class="left">Circuit Breaker</p> - -<p class="right">Numbers of Lower Terminals</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 96. Delco Ignition Switch Circuit Breaker—Mounted</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>It requires 25 amperes to start the circuit breaker vibrating,<span class="pagenum" id="Page174">[174]</span> -but once vibrating a current of three to five amperes will -cause it to continue to operate.</p> - -<p>In case the circuit breaker vibrates repeatedly, do not attempt -to increase the tension of the spring, as the vibration -is an indication of a ground in the system. Remove the -ground and the vibration will stop.</p> - -<p>The ammeter on the right side of the combination switch is -to indicate the current that is going to or coming from the -storage battery with the exception of the cranking current. -When the engine is not running and current is being used for -lights, the ammeter shows the amount of current being used -and the ammeter hand points to the discharge side, as the -current is being discharged from the battery.</p> - -<p>When the engine is running above generating speeds and no -current is being used for lights or horn, the ammeter will -show charge. This is the amount of current that is being -charged into the battery. If current is being used for lights, -ignition and horn, in excess of the amount that is being generated, -the ammeter will show a discharge as the excess current -must be discharged from the battery, but at all ordinary -speeds the ammeter will read charge.</p> - -<p>The ignition coil is mounted on top of the motor generator -as shown in <a href="#Fig94">Fig. 94</a> and is what is generally known as the -ignition transformer coil. In addition to being a plain transformer -coil it has incorporated in it a condenser (which is -necessary for all high tension ignition systems) and has included -on the front end an ignition resistance unit.</p> - -<p>The coil proper consists of a round core of a number of -small iron wires. Wound around this and insulated from it is -the primary winding. The circuit and arrangement of the different -parts are shown in <a href="#Fig97">Fig. 97</a>. The primary current is -supplied through the combination switch through the primary -winding and resistance through the coil, to the distributor contacts. -This is very plainly shown in <a href="#Fig98">Fig. 98</a>. It is the interrupting -of this primary current by the timer contacts together -with the action of the condenser which causes a rapid -demagnetization of the iron core of the coil that induces the<span class="pagenum" id="Page175">[175]</span> -high tension current in the secondary winding. This secondary -winding consists of several thousand turns of very fine copper -wire, the different layers of which are well insulated from -each other and from the primary winding. One end of the -secondary winding is grounded and the other end terminates -at the high tension terminal about midway on top of the coil. -It is from this terminal that the high tension current is conducted -to the distributor where it is distributed to the proper -cylinders by the rotor shown in <a href="#Fig98">Fig. 98</a>.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig97"> - -<img src="images/illo197.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w20pc"> -<col class="w60pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Connects<br> -To Switch</td> -<td class="center">High Tension Wire<br> -To Center Of Distributor</td> -<td class="right">Connects To<br> -Distributor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Primary<br> -Winding</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">Resistance<br> -Unit</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Secondary<br> -Winding</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="right bot">Iron Core</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Condenser</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="center">Coil Bracket Must Be Grounded</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 97. Delco Ignition Coil</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The distributor and timer, together with the ignition coil, -spark plugs, and wiring, constitute the ignition system.</p> - -<p>The proper ignition of an internal combustion engine consists -of igniting the mixture in each cylinder at such a time -that it will be completely burned at the time the piston reaches -dead center on the compression stroke. A definite period of -time is required from the time the spark occurs at the spark -plug until the mixture is completely expanded. It is therefore -apparent, that, as the speed of the engine increases, the -time the spark occurs must be advanced with respect to the -crank shaft, and it is for this reason that the Delco ignition -systems are fitted with an automatic spark control.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page176">[176]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig98"> - -<img src="images/illo198.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w60emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w16pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col span="2" class="w12pc"> -<col class="w05pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col class="w17pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">CIRCUIT BREAKER</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">AMMETER</td> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td class="left">COWL LIGHT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">RESISTANCE UNIT</td> -<td class="center">SWITCH</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="right">BRUSH SWITCHES<br> -OPERATED BY<br> -STARTING PEDAL</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="4" class="left top">CONDENSER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">IGNITION COIL</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">TONNEAU<br> -LIGHT</td> -<td class="right">HEAD<br> -LIGHTS</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right bot">SERIES FIELD</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="center">ROTOR FOR DISTRIBUTING<br> -HIGH TENSION CURRENT</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">MOTOR</td> -<td class="left">GENERATOR</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="left">TAIL LIGHT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center top">STORAGE<br> -BATTERY</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center top">SHUNT<br> -FIELD</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center top">TO SPARK PLUGS<br> -<span class="righttext padr1">DISTRIBUTOR</span></td> -<td class="left">ADVANCE<br> -TUNGSTEN<br> -TIMING<br> -CONTACTS</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center top">AUX<br> -LIGHT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="center">HORN BUTTON<br> -IN WHEEL</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 98. Delco Wiring Diagram—Buick Cars</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page177">[177]</span></p> - -<p>The quality of the mixture and the amount of compression -are also factors in the time required for the burning to be -complete. Thus a rich mixture burns quicker than a lean -one. For this reason the engine will stand more advance with -a half open throttle than with a wide open throttle, and in -order to secure the proper timing of the ignition due to these -variations and to retard the spark for starting, idling and carburetor -adjusting, the Delco distributor also has a manual -control.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig99"> - -<img src="images/illo199.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<p class="right">Rotor Button<br> -Rotor<br> -Breaker Cam<br> -Timing Adjustment<br> -Automatic Weights</p> - -<p class="noindent">Advance Lever</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 99. Delco Ignition Distributor</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The automatic feature of this distributor is shown in <a href="#Fig99">Figs. -99</a> and <a href="#Fig100">100</a>. With the spark lever set at the running position -on the steering wheel (which is nearly all the way down -on the quadrant), the automatic feature gives the proper spark -for all speeds excepting a wide open throttle at low speeds, -at which time the spark lever should be slightly retarded. -When the ignition is too far advanced it causes loss of power -and a knocking sound within the engine. With too late a -spark there is a loss of power which is usually not noticed -except by an experienced driver or one very familiar with -the car and heating of the engine and excessive consumption -of fuel is the result.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page178">[178]</span></p> - -<p>The timer contacts shown at D and C (<a href="#Fig100">Fig. 100</a>) are two -of the most important points of an automobile. Very little -attention will keep these in perfect condition. These are -tungsten metal, which is extremely hard and requires a very -high temperature to melt. Under normal conditions they wear -or burn very slightly and will very seldom require attention; -but in the event of abnormal voltage, such as would be obtained -by running with the battery removed, or with the -ignition resistance unit shorted out, or with a defective condenser, -these contacts burn very rapidly and in a short time -will cause serious ignition trouble. <i>The car should never be -operated with the battery removed.</i></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig100"> - -<img src="images/illo200.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w12emmax"> - -<p class="center">3 AUTOMATIC<br> -WEIGHTS</p> - -<p class="noindent">DISTRIBUTOR<br> -CONTACT BREAKER<br> -CAM</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 100. Delco Ignition Contact Breaker and Timer</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>It is a very easy matter to check the resistance unit by observing -its heating when the ignition button is out and the -contacts in the distributor are closed. If it is shorted out it -will not heat up, and will cause missing at low speeds.</p> - -<p>A defective condenser such as will cause contact trouble -will cause serious missing of the ignition. Therefore, any of -these troubles are comparatively easy to locate and should be -immediately remedied.</p> - -<p>These contacts should be so adjusted that when the fiber -block B is on top of one of the lobes of the cam, the contacts -are opened the thickness of the gauge on the distributor -wrench. Adjust contacts by turning contact screw C, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page179">[179]</span> -lock nut N. The contacts should be dressed with fine emery -cloth so that they meet squarely across the entire face.</p> - -<p>The rotor distributes the high tension current from the -center of the distributor to the proper cylinder. Care must be -taken to see that the distributor head is properly located, -otherwise the rotor brush will not be in contact with the terminal -at the time the spark occurs.</p> - -<p>The distributor head and rotor should be lubricated as described -under the heading “<a href="#Ref03">Lubrication</a>.” The amount of -ignition current required for different speeds is described -under the heading “<a href="#Ref04">Motoring the Generator</a>.”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page180">[180]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXVI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">STORAGE BATTERY</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Construction, Operation and Care</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The modern storage battery does not produce or generate -electrical force. It was designed to carry an extra supply of -current in storage to operate lighting and starting systems, -and in most cases the current required for ignition is drawn -from this supply.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig101"> - -<img src="images/illo202.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w10emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">Terminal Post<br> -Cell Retainer Case<br> -Cell Jar<br> -Negative Plate<br> -Separator<br> -Positive Plate</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 101. Storage Battery, Sectional View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>A storage battery is also called an accumulator, as it accumulates -and retains a charge of electrical current for future -use.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig101">Fig. 101</a> illustrates a storage battery -with a section of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page181">[181]</span> -cell retainer case removed to show the location of the cells, -their respective order, terminal posts and connections. A section -of the cell jar, has also been removed to show the core, -which consists of a set of positive and negative plates. The -positive plates are inserted between the negative plates and -are held in this position through their respective connections -to the positive and negative terminal posts. The cell retainer-jars -are made of zinc or rubber, and contain an acid -and water solution called electrolyte into which the core is -entirely immersed.</p> - -<p><b>The Positive and Negative Plates.</b>—The plates are held -from direct contact with each other by a wood or rubber separator. -These plates are formed with small sectional compartments -called grids, into which a lead compound in paste form -is pressed. The positive plates are made of lead oxide (zinc), -and are dark gray in color, while the negative plates are -made of pure lead, and are light gray in color.</p> - -<p><b>Cells.</b>—The cells are connected up in series, that is, the positive -terminal post of one cell is connected to the negative terminal -post of the next cell, forming a direct path through the -cell arrangement. Each cell will retain a two-volt pressure -until fully discharged. The voltage of a battery is determined -by adding the number of two-volt cells that it contains.</p> - -<p><b>Amperage.</b>—The standard type of storage battery shown in -<a href="#Fig102">Fig. 102</a> is composed of three two-volt cells which form a six-volt -unit of sixty ampere hours, which means that a fully -charged battery will deliver one ampere per hour for sixty -hours. This, also, is about the rate of amperage consumed by -the modern battery ignition system.</p> - -<p><b>Electrolyte Solution.</b>—The electrolyte solution is composed -of a mixture of one part of sulphuric acid added to four to -six parts of water. This solution is poured into the cell -through the filler cap, until the plates are covered from one-fourth -to one-half inch in depth as shown in <a href="#Fig102">Fig. 102</a>.</p> - -<p>Care should always be exercised to keep the air vent in the -filler cap free from grease and dirt in order that the gases -formed through evaporation may escape.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page182">[182]</span></p> - -<p><b>Battery Charging.</b>—The cells are charged by passing a direct -current through them, which causes a chemical action to -take place as the current flows in, changing the nature of the -positive and negative plates, thereby retaining a current force -equal to the difference of the changed nature of the plates. -The battery is entirely discharged when the plates become -alike in nature.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig102"> - -<img src="images/illo204.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w25emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w25pc"> -<col class="w30pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Unscrew<br> -this Cap</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Fill up to<br> -this Point</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center bot">SOLUTION</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Don’t fill<br> -above<br> -this Point</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">PLATE</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 102. Storage Battery, Sectional View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Storage Battery Care and Maintenance.</b>—Regularly once -every week during the summer, and every two weeks during -the winter, add water to each of the three cells of the battery, -until the tops of the plates are covered. Use water only; -never add acid of any kind. Water for battery purposes -should be distilled fresh rain or melted ice, and must be free -from alkali, iron, or other impurities. The battery should be -kept clean and free from dirt. Use only clean non-metallic -vessels for handling and storing water for battery purposes.</p> - -<p>The state of charge of a battery is indicated by the specific<span class="pagenum" id="Page183">[183]</span> -gravity or density of the solution. <a href="#Fig103">Fig. 103</a> shows a hydrometer -syringe used for taking specific gravity readings. The -filler or vent plug in the top of the cell is removed and the -rubber tube of the hydrometer syringe inserted into the cell -so that the end of the tube is below the solution. Then -squeeze the rubber bulb slowly, drawing the solution into the -acid chamber until the hydrometer floats.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig103"> - -<img src="images/illo205.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 103. Hydrometer Syringe</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The reading on the graduator stem at the point where it -emerges from the solution is the specific gravity or density of -the solution.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig103">Fig. 103</a> shows an enlarged section of the hydrometer floating -so that the reading of the graduated scale is 1.280 at the -point where it emerges from the solution. This is the specific -gravity or density of the solution.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page184">[184]</span></p> - -<p>After testing, the solution must be returned to the cell from -which it was taken.</p> - -<p>Never take specific gravity readings immediately after -adding water to the cells.</p> - -<p>The specific gravity readings are expressed in “points,” -thus the difference between 1.275 and 1.300 is 25 points.</p> - -<p>When all the cells are in good condition the specific gravity -will be approximately the same in all cells and the difference -should not be greater than 25 to 30 points.</p> - -<p>With a fully charged battery the specific gravity of the solution -will be from 1.280 to 1.300.</p> - -<p>Specific gravity readings above 1.200 indicates that the battery -is more than half charged.</p> - -<p>Specific gravity readings below 1.200, but above 1.150 indicates -battery less than half charged.</p> - -<p>Gravity below 1.150 indicates battery discharged or run -down.</p> - -<p>Should the gravity fall below 1.150 the gas motor should -be given a long run with all lights turned off, to restore the -battery.</p> - -<p>This condition may result from leaving a car standing for -prolonged periods with all lights in use and insufficient running -of the gas motor in between these periods to replace the -current taken to supply the lights.</p> - -<p>When the specific gravity shows the battery to be half discharged, -the lights should be used sparingly until the gravity -rises to approximately 1.275.</p> - -<p>If the specific gravity in one cell is much lower than that -of the others, and if successive readings show the difference -to be increasing, this indicates that the cell is not in good -order.</p> - -<p>If one cell regularly requires more water than the others -(continually lowering the specific gravity), a leaky jar is indicated. -Leaky jars should be replaced immediately.</p> - -<p>If there is no leak and the specific gravity falls 50 to 75 -points below that of the other cells in the battery, an internal -short circuit is indicated and should be remedied.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page185">[185]</span></p> - -<p><b>Battery to Remain Idle.</b>—Where a battery is to remain out -of active service for a long period, it may be kept in good -condition by giving it a freshening charge at least once a -month, by running the gas motor idle.</p> - -<p>When a battery has been out of service for some time it -should be given a thorough charge before it is placed in -service again.</p> - -<p>If the gas motor cannot be run to give a freshening charge, -the battery should be taken from the car and placed at a -garage, which makes a business of charging storage batteries. -It can be charged at least once a month. This charge should -be 4 and <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> to 5 amperes for twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p><b>Battery Freezing.</b>—In order to avoid freezing, a battery -should be kept in a fully charged condition, as a fully charged -battery will not freeze except at extreme temperatures. As a -battery discharges the specific gravity of the solution decreases, -and the specific gravity of a fully discharged battery -will be approximately 1.120. Batteries of this low gravity -will freeze at 20° F. above zero, whereas, the density of the -solution in a battery approximately three-quarters charged will -be 1.260, and a solution of this density will not freeze until -60° F. below zero.</p> - -<p><i>See</i> <a href="#Ref02">Accumulator</a>. Chapter 14, Electrical Dictionary—Function -and Chemical Action.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page186">[186]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXVII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">SPARK PLUGS AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Some definite knowledge of spark plug construction quality, -and care, will be found very useful to the average motorist -in purchasing new plugs, and keeping those in present use, -in good condition. A good plug properly constructed should -outlast the life of the motor. When purchasing new plugs, -first examine the old plug and get one of the same length. -This is very important as spark plugs are made in as many -different lengths as required by high and low compression -motors. High compression motors have a small low walled -combustion chamber, while low compression motors usually -have a spacious high wall chamber and require a longer plug, -whereas if the long plug is used in the high compression -motor it may be put out of commission by the ascending -piston. Next determine the size of the plug and the gauge of -the thread. The majority of motors use the <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> inch plug, -with the S. A. E. thread, while a few still use the A. L. A. M. -thread which is much finer gauged. Another point to be remembered -is that it is an unwise expenditure to purchase -cheap plugs because the intense heat and pressure that they -are subjected to and required to stand, demands that they be -made of the highest quality of material and workmanship.</p> - -<div class="container w15em" id="Fig104"> - -<img src="images/illo209.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 104. Spark Plug</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig104">Fig. 104</a> shows the sectional construction of a spark plug -costing from one dollar to one dollar and fifty cents. No. 1, -the terminal, is designed to fit all connections. No. 2 nut -which holds electroids firmly in place. No. 3 represents -round edged shoulders which prevent the plug from short -circuiting on the outside. No. 4 is a heavy electroid which -will not break or burn. No. 5 is an extra heavy insulator -which insures a good spark in case the outer porcelain insulator<span class="pagenum" id="Page187">[187]</span> -becomes broken or cracked. No. 6 is a bushing which -holds the insulator firmly in place from the top. No. 7 is a -high compression washer which allows for upward expansion -and makes an even seat for the bushing which holds the insulator -in position. No. 8 is a massive porcelain insulator -designed to withstand a high temperature without cracking. -No. 9 is a copper asbestos washer that allows for the downward -expansion of the insulator. No. 10 is the shell casting -which holds and protects the insulator. No. 11 are rounded -corners which will allow the plug to be screwed down flush -without coming into contact with the curved walls of the cup -containers. No. 12 is a high compression washer which prevents -all leakage. No. 13 shows elastic cement which -strengthens the lower construction of the insulator and prevents -the compression from escaping through the center of the -insulator. No. 14 is a hardened polished steel tipped electroid. -No. 15 is a bent polished steel electroid dipped on -each side of the spark in order to prevent oil from running -down from the shell casting and closing the spark gap. No.<span class="pagenum" id="Page188">[188]</span> -16 represents an extended center electroid which prevents any -oil that may have lodged on it from stopping at the spark gap.</p> - -<p><b>Spark Plug Cleaning.</b>—To insure a smooth running motor -and a good spark, the spark plugs should be cleaned at thirty -day intervals. It is not always necessary to disassemble them -at this time as the carbon usually collects and bakes on the -metal casting shell and can be removed by running a thin -knife blade or finger nail file around the inner surface. However, -when the insulator becomes pitted or carbon burnt the -plug should be disassembled and the insulator wiped clean -with a cloth dampened in kerosene. Never immerse the insulator -in kerosene, as this will loosen the cement around the -center electroid and cause the plug to leak compression. The -shell may be immersed. It is then wiped dry and the inside -surfaces scraped or rubbed with a piece of sand or emery -paper to dislodge the carbon pits. After all parts have been -thoroughly dried the plug is reassembled, using new washers.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page189">[189]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXVIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">CLUTCH CONSTRUCTION, TYPE AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The clutch used in automobile construction of the present -day becomes a necessary part of the equipment upon the -adoption by manufacturers of the progressive and selective -types of sliding gear transmissions.</p> - -<p>When the engine is started the clutch is “in,” that is, in contact -with the flywheel, and all parts of the clutch revolve with -it at the same speed. The shaft on which the clutch is -mounted extends into the transmission gear case, but as the -transmission gears are in a neutral position, the movement -of the car is not affected.</p> - -<p>When the car is to be started the clutch foot pedal (usually -on the left side of the steering column) is pressed down. -This throws the part attached to the drive shaft out of contact -with the part attached to the flywheel, and in its backward -movement it comes into contact with the clutch brake, as -shown in <a href="#Fig105">Fig. 105</a>, which stops it from revolving. The hand -gear control lever is shifted into the first speed slot or position. -The pressure on the foot pedal is then gradually released -and the clutch is carried in by spring tension, and the car -moves off at first speed.</p> - -<p><b>Second Speed.</b>—The clutch is thrown “out” after a brief -lapse of three to five seconds has been allowed for the -brake to slow up rotation in order that the gears to be meshed -will be rotating at the same speed. The hand control lever is -now shifted into the second speed slot, and the clutch pedals -released.</p> - -<p><b>High Speed or Direct Drive.</b>—The clutch is thrown out and -a few seconds allowed for it to slow up. The hand control -lever is shifted into the high speed slot, which connects the<span class="pagenum" id="Page190">[190]</span> -drive or propeller shaft directly to the clutch shaft and the -car is driven at crank shaft speed when the clutch is let in.</p> - -<p><b>Reverse.</b>—The clutch is employed in the same manner. -However, the motion of the car, the clutch and all gears must -be at a stand still before the gear control lever is shifted to -the reverse speed slot, as the gears in the transmission operate -in the opposite direction.</p> - -<div class="container w20em" id="Fig105"> - -<img src="images/illo212.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 105. Cone Clutch and Brake</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h3>OPERATION</h3> - -<p>A clutch always consists of two parts, one part which is -attached to the flywheel, and another part which operates on -or against the part formed by the flywheel.</p> - -<p>While there are five to seven different types of clutches, but -two types are used by the majority of automobile manufacturers. -The single or multiple disc clutch is used almost exclusively<span class="pagenum" id="Page191">[191]</span> -in unit power plant construction, while the cone -type is used when the transmission is carried in a separate -unit.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig105">Fig. 105</a> shows the cone clutch with its three adjusting -springs and clutch brake. The cone is shown in a lighter color -than the flywheel. It has a funnel-shaped surface with a slant -or angle of from thirty to thirty-eight degrees. The slanted -surface is faced with leather and fits into the rim of the flywheel -which has been ground to the same slant. The cone -clutch is not attached to the flywheel but forms a part and -revolves with it when the faces are in contact. The cone is -carried on a separate short shaft which extends into the transmission -case. This shaft carries a steel plate or disc at the -front end to which the cone which slides on the shaft is anchored -by studs extending from the plate through the cone. -The studs usually number three or four and carry a two to -three inch spring on the outer end back of the cone. The -cone is backed out of contact with the flywheel face, against -the tension of these springs, in a toggle leverage connected to -the foot pedal. The clutch brake shown in <a href="#Fig105">Fig. 105</a> is adjustable -and makes contact with the rim of the cone retarding -the rotation when the cone is drawn out of contact with the -flywheel.</p> - -<p><b>Cone Clutch Care.</b>—The leather face of the cone should -receive 5 to 7 drops of Neat’s foot oil every thirty days. A -grease cup will be found on the cone which provides lubrication -for the shaft on which the cone slides. This should be -given a half turn every second day.</p> - -<p><b>Cone Clutch Adjustment.</b>—The three studs extending -through the cone, have a lock nut adjustment on the outer -end, and the cone may be adjusted up to make a stronger face -contact by loosening the lock nut and turning the inner nut -to the right. This strengthens the spring tension and causes -the contact faces to set more firmly. This adjustment, however, -should take place only when clutch slipping is noted. -Only a little movement of the nuts is necessary, and all three -or four nuts should be taken up a like amount in order to<span class="pagenum" id="Page192">[192]</span> -prevent the cone from running out of line or making uneven -contact.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig106">Fig. 106</a> shows the multiple disc clutch used almost exclusively -in connection with the unit power plant. This type -of clutch consists of a set of plates attached and driven by -the flywheel, and another set of plates or thin discs attached -to the drive shaft. The drive shaft plates operate between the -flywheel plates. The contact is frictional and the plates are -held together by spring tension.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig106"> - -<img src="images/illo214.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 106. Multi-Disc Unit Power Plant, Clutch and Transmission</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h3>BORG AND BECK CLUTCH</h3> - -<p>The new Borg and Beck Clutch is provided with a thrust -bearing at the inner end of the clutch sleeve, which does -away with the friction between the parts, and eliminates the -need of a clutch brake.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page193">[193]</span></p> - -<p>The clutch is mounted in the customary way in a housing -which contains both the flywheel and the clutch.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig107"> - -<img src="images/illo215.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 107. Borg and Beck Clutch</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Referring to the sectional view, <a href="#Fig107">Fig. 107</a>, the action of the -clutch is clear if it is kept in mind that among the rotatable -parts only the driven group, comprising of the disk A and -the shaft B, can stand still when the flywheel is running. All -the other rotatable parts are anchored to the flywheel, and -must revolve and drive with the latter. The clutch brake was -formerly mounted at the inner end of the clutch shaft, and -has been replaced by the thrust bearing shown at C.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page194">[194]</span></p> - -<p>When the clutch is disengaged there is no friction between -the shaft B, and the throw out sleeve D. The thrust bearing -takes the rotating drag of the clutch shaft, thereby eliminating -the necessity for a brake to check the spinning action. The -friction and power action is readily understood as, when the -clutch is thrown in, all the rotating parts are friction locked -into a single combination and revolve as one with the flywheel.</p> - -<p>The power of the release clutch spring E, acting through -the throwout-collar F, and the bell crank pivot G, drives -the thrust shoes outwardly with a lever wedge toggle combination -of powers against the overhanging, inward beveled -face to the thrust ring H, since the parts on which they are -mounted are backed against the cover wall or rigid end of the -clutch casing. It therefore follows that the full part shafting -effect of the thrust is communicated to the thrust ring H, -and the latter, in being driven hard toward the flywheel, sets -up between itself and the inner casing wall a friction grip -sufficiently powerful to stop the slippage of the asbestos rings -upon the polished faces of the discs, thus giving the drive to -the car.</p> - -<p>When the pedal is depressed to release the clutch, the retracing -parts telescope the coil of the spring E, until it -occupies nearly a single plane. The withdrawing parts also -release the clutch shoes a sufficient distance from the face of -the thrust ring H to permit the latter, together with its companion -friction ring, to back away from the disc, thus breaking -the friction grip and permitting it to come to a stop, -while the flywheel and the parts of the clutch anchored to it -are left free to revolve idly.</p> - -<p>The release disc A is so light that its spinning does not continue -except for a very short time and does not offer any -clashing action on the gears. The full thrust of the spring -transmitted through the powerful lever toggle action to the -friction grip parts is always sufficient to lock the driving flywheel -parts, and the driven disc, into a fixed nonslipping relation -for a full driving action; but it is still always within -control of the driver, through the foot lever, to let the clutch<span class="pagenum" id="Page195">[195]</span> -into engagement by degrees, and thus by a gradual increase of -the friction grip, gradually overcome the starting slippage.</p> - -<p><b>Adjustments.</b>—Taking up adjustments are provided by -means of bolts acting through adjustment slots in the cover. -When the bolts are loosened and shifted in their cover slots, -they control and shift with them an adjustment ring which -brings all the shoes to new seats against the nonslipping -thrust ring and these seats being farther up the inclines of the -tapered ring, the ring is necessarily thrust much farther toward -the other friction parts, thus compensating the wear.</p> - -<p>The adjustment for throw-out can be controlled by taking -up the friction grip adjustment, the latter being identical with -the take up adjustment just described, as these too are taken -care of by the same mechanical means to make the adjustment -on the clutch.</p> - -<p><b>Disc Clutch Cleaning; Dry Plate.</b>—Dry plate clutches do -not require any oil, except that the grease cups (which provide -lubrication for the sleeve shaft and bearings) be filled -weekly and given a half turn every second day. The housing -and plates should be cleaned whenever slipping becomes -noticeable. To do this remove the cover from the housing, -and the drain plug from the bottom, hold the clutch out, and -squirt kerosene over the plates with a dope gun. This will remove -the grease from the plates, and also any dirt or grit that -may have lodged in the bottom of the housing.</p> - -<p><b>Disc Clutch Cleaning; Wet Plate.</b>—The wet plate clutch is -cleaned in the same manner as the dry plate, except that the -plug is first removed from the bottom of the housing and the -oil drained off before using the kerosene. After the plates -and housing have been cleaned, replace the drain plug and -fill the housing up to the clutch shaft with a heavy cylinder oil.</p> - -<h3>CONE CLUTCH CLEANING</h3> - -<p>Cone clutches are always in perfect condition when leaving -the factory and should not require any further attention -during the first season or for eight to ten thousand miles of -service.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page196">[196]</span></p> - -<p>After that it is usually necessary to replace the leather, or -reline the cone, which makes it as good and as serviceable as -when it was new.</p> - -<p><b>New Clutch Leathers.</b>—New clutch leathers may be obtained -from the manufacturer, or from the service station, by -giving the number and model of the car. New clutch leathers -obtained in this way are cut, shaped, and have the ends cemented, -and are ready to be slipped on or off, over the cone -and riveted into place. However, the leather must first be -soaked in water or Neat’s foot oil to make it soft and pliable. -This allows it to be driven or stretched over the cone. The -rivets must be counter-sunk to prevent the heads from extending -above the top surface of the leather, which would cause the -clutch to “grab” or jerk upon being engaged.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig108"> - -<img src="images/illo218.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 108. Cone Clutch Leathers—Pattern—Cutting</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Measuring and Cutting Clutch Leathers.</b>—Whenever possible -it is advisable to purchase clutch leathers cut and cemented, -ready to put on. But in case of emergency or when -the proper size cannot be obtained, a new leather may be cut -from a piece of leather three-sixteenth of an inch in thickness -using the old leather as a pattern. But in case the old -leather is not available to serve as a pattern, proceed in the -following manner which is illustrated in <a href="#Fig108">Fig. 108</a>, which shows -how to make an exact pattern out of paper without going -into technicalities. Take a piece of heavy wrapping paper, -forty or fifty inches long and twenty inches wide, lay the cone -on the left hand edge about one inch from the bottom of the -sheet, roll the cone keeping the paper flat on the face until<span class="pagenum" id="Page197">[197]</span> -the starting edge meets the sheet, hold the wrapped cone and -draw a line around the inside of the paper, letting the pencil -rest against the edge of the large diameter of the cone; repeat -at the small end of the cone, then draw a line parallel -to the starting edge where it meets the sheet. This will give -you a pattern similar to that shown with the dotted lines in -<a href="#Fig108">Fig. 108</a>.</p> - -<p>Now secure a piece of unstretchable leather (belting is -preferable). This belting or leather should be slightly longer -than the pattern you have just completed and sufficiently -wide to embrace the curve; about twelve to fifteen inches -wide for the average clutch will be sufficient, and about three-sixteenths -of an inch thick.</p> - -<p>Cut out the paper pattern and lay it on the leather belting -as shown in <a href="#Fig108">Fig. 108</a>, and cut out with a sharp knife, leaving -one-half inch over at each end as a safety measure and for -mitering the joints. Fit this leather to the cone and cut the -ends the exact size, miter the ends and cement with a good -leather cement. Be sure that you have the rough or flesh side -of the new facing on the outside; rivet it firmly in place and -smooth down the rough spots with a piece of coarse sand -paper, clean off all dirt, grease, and grit, especially the grit -from the sand paper, as this will grind and score the smooth -surface of the flywheel and cause clutch slipping. Paint the -leather with Neat’s foot oil and the clutch is ready to be assembled -and adjusted.</p> - -<p><b>Cone Clutch Cleaning.</b>—Cone clutches usually do not require -any special care or cleaning unless oil or grease, other -than (Neat’s foot or castor) are applied accidentally or by mistake -to the leather face. If this happens the grease must be -thoroughly cleaned off of the leather face with kerosene or -gasoline otherwise the clutch will not hold. After the clutch -leather has been washed allow it to dry for twenty minutes -and apply a thin coat of Neat’s foot oil evenly on the leather -face before reassembling the clutch.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page198">[198]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXIX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">TRANSMISSIONS, TYPES, OPERATION AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Transmission came into use with the application or adoption -of the internal combustion engine as a factor in motor car -propulsion.</p> - -<p>As this type of engine develops its power by a rapid succession -of explosions in the combustion chambers, each explosion -delivers an impulse or power stroke to the piston, -which in turn sets the crank shaft and flywheel to revolving. -The momentum gathered by the crank shaft and flywheel may -therefore be termed the power for duty, or in other words, -unless there is momentum or carrying motion at this point, -there will be little or no power for duty.</p> - -<p>This brings us up to a point where it is easy to see that a -rapid series of explosions are necessary to gain carrying momentum -or power to move a dead weight load. As this motional -power could not be applied to the load without serious -damage to the gears and bearings, it was necessary to invent -a device to gradually transmit or apply the power to the -movable load by graduating the leverage. This resulted in -the development of the automobile transmission. The natural -way of doing this at first seemed to be by applying the power -to the load by frictional slippage. Many ingenious devices -of this sort were tried out without much success until the -driving and driven disc type made its appearance.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig109">Fig. 109</a> shows the driving and driven disc type of friction -transmission. This type of transmission is not being used -by any of the present day manufacturers of automobiles, but -may still be found on some of the three and four-year-old -models still in operation.</p> - -<p>A, the drive shaft, is squared and slides backward a distance<span class="pagenum" id="Page199">[199]</span> -of three inches through a squared sleeve extending from -the hub of the flywheel. The action of this shaft is controlled -by a leverage arrangement to a foot pedal. B, the -steel plate driving disc, is attached to the end of shaft A, and -drives C, when held back against it by pressure on the foot -pedal. Disc C can be slid in any position on the jack or -cross shaft D, and is controlled by a leverage arrangement -connected to a hand lever. The various speeds are obtained -by sliding disc C into different positions and contacts on the -left side of disc B. Reverse speeds are obtained by sliding -disc C over center where it forms contact on the right side of -B and is driven in an opposite direction.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig109"> - -<img src="images/illo221.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 109. Friction Transmission</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>The Planetary Type of Transmission.</b>—The planetary type -of transmission made its appearance along about the same time -as the friction type. The power is transmitted to the load -through a set of reduction gears arranged in a drum. A king -gear on the engine shaft operates a set of small gears in the -drum. These small gears reduce the leverage speed and transmit -the power to the drive shaft, a band similar to that used -on brakes is fitted to the face of the drum. When this drum -containing the reduction gears is not in use it turns at crank -shaft speed. The speed is used by pressing a foot pedal -which tightens the brake band and holds the drum stationary, -thereby forcing the smaller gears into action.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page200">[200]</span></p> - -<p>Planetary transmissions are shown and fully explained in -a later chapter. (See <a href="#Page269">Model T Ford Supplement</a>.)</p> - -<p><b>The Sliding Gear Transmission.</b>—This type of transmission -has proved very successful, and is used by 98 per cent of the -present day automobile manufacturers. This type of transmission -made its first appearance with a progressive gear -shift, that is, it was necessary to proceed through one speed -or set of gears to engage the next. This arrangement caused -considerable confusion at times, as it was necessary to reshift -the gears back through these speeds to attain neutral, when -the car was brought to a stand still.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig110"> - -<img src="images/illo222.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w30emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w40pc"> -<col class="w16pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">Neutral</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">2nd.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">Rev.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">Rev.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="center">2nd.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Neut.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">1st.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">3rd.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">3rd.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="center">1st.</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="center">Ball-and-Socket<br> -Shift</td> -<td class="center">H or Gate Type<br> -Gear Shift</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 110. Selective Type of Gear Shifts</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig111"> - -<img src="images/illo223.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 111. Sliding Gear Transmission—Sectional View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The control lever operated on a straight forward and backward -direction on a quadrant, having a notch for each speed -change. This gear shifting arrangement has also been abandoned -by manufacturers in favor of the selective gear shift -which is arranged so that the driver may choose any speed at -will. <a href="#Fig110">Fig. 110</a> shows the control lever which operates in a -frame resembling the block letter H and the ball and socket -shift which operates in the same manner. <a href="#Fig111">Fig. 111</a> shows the -complete assembly of the selective sliding gear transmission. -The sliding gears are arranged on a separate core and are -operated by an individual throw fork, which seats in a groove -on the shoulder of the gear. Low and reverse are always opposite -each other on the same core. High and intermediate -are located on another core, and are controlled by another individual<span class="pagenum" id="Page201">[201]</span> -shifting fork. The gear box arrangement (<a href="#Fig111">Fig. A</a>) -shows the cast gear box which contains the gears, shafts, and -bearings, and a roomy compartment below the gears in which -grease is carried, as the gears in this type of transmission always -operate in an oil bath which prevents excessive wear and -causes them to operate noiselessly. <a href="#Fig111">Fig. B</a>, the gear case -cover, contains the slotted sliding shafts, to which the gear -in shifting forks are attached. <a href="#Fig111">Fig. C</a> shows the arrangement -of the gears in the case and explains their operation. Gear -No. 1 is attached to the extreme end of the engine shaft, and -is continually engaged with gear No. 4, which causes the<span class="pagenum" id="Page202">[202]</span> -counter shaft No. 11, containing the stationery gears, to revolve -whenever the engine shaft No. 9 is in operation. The -drive shaft No. 8 does not run straight through and connect -with No. 9, the engine shaft, but ends and takes its bearing -in the core of gear No. 1. Consequently, when the gears on -the drive shaft are slid into mesh with the gears on the counter -shaft, variable speeds are attained. Low speed is obtained by -sliding gear No. 3 into mesh with gear No. 6; second or intermediate -is obtained by meshing gears No. 2 and gear No. 5.</p> - -<p>High, or engine speed, is obtained by sliding gear No. 2 -which is cored and shouldered over the end of gear No. 1, -making a direct connection of the drive shaft No. 8, and the -engine shaft No. 9, at this point. Reverse is obtained by meshing -gear No. 3 on the drive shaft with gear No. 10, which is -an extra or idle gear mounted on a stub shaft on the rear of -the gear case. Idle gear No. 10 is always in mesh with gear -No. 7, on the counter shaft.</p> - -<p>Functional operation engine shafts always turn to the -right or clockwise, which causes the counter shaft to turn to -the left or anti-clockwise. This causes the drive shaft to turn -to the right when low or intermediate speed gears are engaged, -driving the car forward. Reverse, is obtained by the -use of an extra gear in this way. Counter shaft turning to -the left turns idle gear to the right, and this gear turning to -the right, turns gear on the drive shaft to the left, and causes -the car to be driven in a backward direction. In the unit -power plant shown in <a href="#Fig112">Fig. 112</a>, the operation and gear shifting -are identical with that of the separate gear case. The -crank case of the motor is either extended or another case attached -to the motor which has a compartment arranged to -contain the clutch and transmission gears. This arrangement -results in compactness, and does away with the supports -required to carry the transmission separately.</p> - -<p><b>Transmission Care.</b>—The transmission should be thoroughly -cleaned and refilled with fresh grease or heavy oil once in every -thousand miles that the car is driven to prevent excessive -wear and much noise. To clean, remove the plug at the bottom<span class="pagenum" id="Page203">[203]</span> -of the case, and the cover from the top. After the old -oil has drained out, replace the plug, fill the case half full of -kerosene, replace the cover, and let the motor run for a few -minutes with the gears in neutral. Drain the kerosene off, -and wash the case and gears off with a paint brush which has -been dipped into fresh kerosene. Then examine the gears for -blunt burrs and the bearings for looseness. If the gears are -burred or chipped, file, or grind them down to level. If the -bearings are loose they will have to be replaced, as the bearings -used to carry both the counter and drive shaft are seldom -provided with means of adjusting. These bearings, however, -will not show wear for years if properly cared for. Next, -see that the gear case is free from grit and filings, replace the -drain plug, and fill the gear case to within one half inch from -the drive or propeller shaft with a light graphite grease or -heavy oil, and replace the cover using a new gasket.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig112"> - -<img src="images/illo225.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 112. Clutch and Transmission Assembly—Unit Power Plant</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page204">[204]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">UNIVERSAL JOINTS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig113"> - -<img src="images/illo226a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w10emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">Oil Plugs<br> -Slip Joint<br> -Oil-tight Washer</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<img src="images/illo226b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w10emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">Oil Plugs<br> -Slip Joint<br> -Oil-tight Washer</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 113. Slip Joint and Universal</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Universal joints were designed to transmit power from one -shaft to another at constantly changing angles. An automobile -engine cannot be hung at the low level required to allow -straight line drive, as it would have to be carried from six to -eight inches lower than it is in present construction, and this -would allow very little road clearance if any. And as the -rear axle receives the power transmitted to it at a constantly -changing level due to torque and spring action, it is necessary<span class="pagenum" id="Page205">[205]</span> -to have a flexible coupling on the propeller shaft between the -engine and the rear axle to prevent the gears and bearings -from being damaged from distortion.</p> - -<p>Universal joints are made of the best steel or bronze, do not -require any adjusting, and will outlast the life of a car, providing -they are not driven at too great an angle, and are kept -well lubricated. A metal shell or leather boot is fitted to the -joint to carry and provide constant lubrication. This boot -or container should be kept well-packed with a heavy oil, -(600-W steam oil, Whitemore’s compound or a light graphite -grease).</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig114"> - -<img src="images/illo227.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w05emmax"> - -<p class="noindent">No 3001<br> -No 3004<br> -No 3003<br> -No 3002<br> -No 3006<br> -No 3007<br> -No 3008<br> -No 3005<br> -No 3009<br> -No 3010<br> -No 3011</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 114. Universal-Joint Construction Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Remove the oil plug every thirty days and pack the housing. -Use a dope or oil gun to force in the lubricant. The housing -should be subjected to regular inspections quite frequently as -the lubricant often escapes from the end boot due to distortion -and wear.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page206">[206]</span></p> - -<p><a href="#Fig113">Fig. 113</a> shows the rigid construction of a heavy duty universal -joint and slip joint. The ends of the shafts are yoked -and fitted to a swivel cross block; the leather boot follows the -angle of the shaft and makes the housing oil tight.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig114">Fig. 114</a> shows a sectional view of the “Standard” universal -joint, manufactured by the Universal Machine Co., of Bowling -Green, Ohio. The left-hand cut shows the forward section -and tapered shaft seat. This joint gives a combined universal -action and slip on a two inch square. All points are -concentric and always in balance. The bearings are provided -with grooves and holes for lubrication. A metal and leather -boot is also provided for protection, and as a grease retainer. -And owing to the flange type there are but four bolts -to remove in order to disassemble this joint.</p> - -<p>The names of the various parts are given according to corresponding -numbers.</p> - -<ul class="parts"> - -<li>3001—Flange</li> - -<li>3003—Adapter for same</li> - -<li>3002—Socket</li> - -<li>3006—Bronze caps</li> - -<li>3007—Trunion head</li> - -<li>3008—Metal boot</li> - -<li>3009—Leather boot</li> - -<li>3010-11—Boot clamps</li> - -<li>3004—Oil plug</li> - -<li>3005—Bolts</li> - -</ul> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page207">[207]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">THE DIFFERENTIAL GEAR</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Differential gears were designed to allow for equalization -of the power strain transmitted to the rear axles.</p> - -<p>The rotary movement is transmitted to the axles joining the -wheels by a bevel gear, which if simple would drive both wheels -at the same speed. This is satisfactory on the “straight -ahead” drive, but it is clear that in turning a corner the car -is describing a portion of a circle, and the inner wheel having -a smaller circumference to traverse, must go at less speed than -the outer. The differential gear was devised to allow for this -difference in power stresses.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig115"> - -<img src="images/illo229.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 115. Differential Action Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>It is perhaps the functional action more than the simple -mechanism that one finds the most confusion about. The diagram -given in <a href="#Fig115">Fig. 115</a> shows how the functional action is -mechanically carried out.</p> - -<p>In the first place, each wheel, W, is fixed firmly to an independent -axle turned by pinions, D and E. These pinions<span class="pagenum" id="Page208">[208]</span> -are connected by another, C. Now if D turns, E will rotate -in the opposite direction due to the action of C. If D and E -are rotating in the same direction at the same speed, C will -merely lock with them and not rotate. If now, D accelerates -slightly, C will turn, slowly retarding E, while if E accelerates, -C will turn slowly in the opposite direction retarding D. -This is precisely what is required in turning a corner. Now -fix these in a box, driven as a whole by the bevel or ring -gear B driven by the driving pinion gear A. When the car -is on the straight ahead drive D, C, E are locked. C does not -rotate and the three act as a single axle. As the car turns, -C turns slowly, acted upon by the outer wheel, and gives the -differential action.</p> - -<p><b>The Worm Gear Drive.</b>—The worm gear drive differential -action is practically the same as the bevel gear action, the -only difference being that there is a worm gear on the end of<span class="pagenum" id="Page209">[209]</span> -the drive shaft which engages with a helical toothed gear, -which takes the place of the bevel gear B.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig116"> - -<img src="images/illo230.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 116. Differential Assembly</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig116">Fig. 116</a> shows the differential gear assembly which is carried -by a set of bearings. These bearings are held in place -by a set of shoulders, or retainers which are built into the -housing on each side of the differential assembly. These -bearings may be of either the radial, roller, or ball type. -However, when the ball or roller bearing is used for carrying -the differential, an end thrust bearing must be used in conjunction -to take the end thrust and for adjusting purposes. -The differential assembly shown is known as the bevel gear -and pinion drive. The pinion gear is keyed to the tapered -end of the drive shaft and usually does not carry an adjustment. -The bevel gear mesh adjustment is made by setting -the bearing supporting the differential assembly backward or -forward. This adjustment, however, applies mostly to the -full floating axle, as the axle shaft in this case usually has a -square end which slides into the small bevel gear of the differential. -The shaft used in this type of axle may be drawn out -through the wheel and replaced without disassembling the -axle or removing the weight from the wheels.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig117"> - -<img src="images/illo231.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig 117. Differential Adjusting Points</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>When the Hotchkiss drive is employed in combination with -the semi-floating or three-quarters floating axle, three adjusting<span class="pagenum" id="Page210">[210]</span> -points will be found. <a href="#Fig117">Fig. 117</a> shows the three points -at which adjustments are made. The short drive shaft carries -the pinion gear at the rear end, and a universal joint at -the front end is supported by a set of radial bearings inside -of the front and rear ends of the housing.</p> - -<p>The adjustment on this shaft is made by turning the notched -cone A1 to the right, which pushes the bearings farther upon -the bearing cones and reduces the looseness. After the short -shaft has been properly adjusted, remove the lugs B, which -fit into the notches of the adjustment nuts, A2 and A3, and -turn A2 to the left to loosen, now turn A3 to the right until -the bevel gear is meshing properly with pinion gear, then replace -the lugs, B, to hold the adjustment. It is only necessary -to make this adjustment when play occurs from natural wear, -which will happen probably once in every five to seven thousand -miles.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig118"> - -<img src="images/illo232.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w12emmax"> - -<p class="center">CASE</p> - -<p class="center">CAM</p> - -<p class="center">CAM FULCRUM PIN</p> - -<p class="center">PAWL</p> - -<p class="center">PAWL BLOCK</p> - -<p class="right">LUG</p> - -<p class="center">RETAINING PLATE</p> - -<p class="center">RATCHET RING</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 118. Allen Gearless Differential</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig118">Fig. 118</a> shows a cross-section of the Allen gearless differential. -The main gearing is bolted to the casing. The wheel -shafts are splined to ratchet rings. The two lugs of the pawl -block are secured in slots in the casing so that the block turns -with it. Eight pawls on the pawl block drive, the ratchet rings -two on each side operate for forward, and two on each side -for reverse. The pawls permit either ratchet ring to overrun<span class="pagenum" id="Page211">[211]</span> -them and move freely in the direction of motion, so long -as it is moving faster than the pawl block. The lugs of the -pawl block have a little motion, about <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″, in the slots, so -that the casing moves this distance before engaging them for -forward or reverse motion. This operates the rocking cams -by their heads inserted in slots in right angles to the lugs, -having the effect of pressing on and disengaging the forward -or reverse pawls according to the direction of the motion.</p> - -<p>When the car is running by its momentum with the clutch -out, the action is reversed and the ratchet rings drive the -casing and driving gear through the pawl block.</p> - -<p>The adjustment given above also applies to the setting of the -Allen differential.</p> - -<p><b>Lubrication.</b>—<i>See</i> Chapter on <a href="#Page212">Axles</a>.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page212">[212]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">AXLE TYPES, OPERATION AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Two types of rear axles are being used by the manufacturers -of automobiles—the live axle, and the dead axle. The -live axle which carries the weight of the load and transmits -the power of rotation to the wheels, is built in two distinct -designs called the semi-floating axle, and the full-floating -axle. The semi-floating design is used extensively in -manufacturing cars of light weight, while the full-floating -design is favored more by the manufacturers of cars of medium -and heavy weight. Both designs give equally satisfactory -results.</p> - -<p>The dead axle carries the weight of the car and load in -much the same manner as a horse drawn vehicle. The power -is conveyed to the loose wheels on the axle, by means of a -chain which operates on a sprocket attached to the hub of the -wheel, or by an internal gear drive arranged and housed in the -brake drums.</p> - -<p><b>The Semi-floating Axle.</b>—In the semi-floating design of -axle, the axle shaft carries the weight and transmits the rotation -power to the wheel, which is keyed and locked to the -outer end. The axle shaft is provided with a bearing at each -end which operates on the inside of a closely fitted housing. -The inside end of each axle shaft is bolted directly to the differential. -The housing is split or divided into two halves, and -bolts together in the center over the differential. This design -of axle gives excellent service, but has one disadvantage in -that it is somewhat difficult to disassemble, as the rear system -must be disconnected from the car to take the housing apart. -<a href="#Fig119">Fig. 119</a> shows a part sectional view of a semi-floating axle -used by the Detroit Taxicab Co. The wide series of S. K. F.<span class="pagenum" id="Page213">[213]</span> -ball bearings used on this axle are self aligning, which prevents -any binding action from shaft deflection.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig119"> - -<img src="images/illo235.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 119. Semi-Floating Rear Axle</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>The Full-floating Axle.</b>—The full-floating design of axle -serves the same functional purpose as the semi-floating design, -but is constructed differently and operates on a widely different -plan. In the full-floating design of axle, the axle shaft -does not support any of the weight of the car or load, but -serves simply as a member to transmit the power rotation to -the wheels. The wheels are mounted on separate bearings, -which operate on the outside of the outer end of the housing. -The inner ends of the axle shafts are squared, or splined and -slide into slots or seats in the differential gears. The differential -assembly is in a separate unit, and is floated on bearings -held by retainers extending from the forward end of the -large ball-shaped center of the housing. The outer end of the -axle shaft extends through the hub of the wheel, and has -an umbrella-shaped plate on the end which bolts to the outside -face of the wheel, as shown in <a href="#Fig120">Fig. 120</a>, thus transmitting the -power directly to the outside of the wheel, without the axle -shaft taking any bearing. The axle shaft may be drawn out -through the wheel, by removing the nuts which secure the umbrella -plate, without removing the weight of the car from the -wheels. The differential unit can also be removed without disassembling -the housing, by removing a large cover plate from -the center of the housing. <a href="#Fig121">Fig. 121</a> shows a typical full-floating -axle, with a spiral bevel gear drive. The wheels in -this case are mounted on a set of double series radial and<span class="pagenum" id="Page214">[214]</span> -thrust ball-bearings. The Hotchkiss type of short shaft final -drive is carried in the forward extended part of the housing.</p> - -<div class="container w25em" id="Fig120"> - -<img src="images/illo236a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 120. Full-Floating Axle—Wheel-End Arrangement</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig121"> - -<img src="images/illo236b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 121. Full-Floating Axle</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>Two types of front axles are used by the manufacturers of -automobiles. The I-beam type, which is a one piece drop -forging, and the tubular or hollow type, which is round and -has the yoke fitted into the ends. Both types operate on the -same principle and plan, the only distinction between the types -is that one type has the I-beam cross member and the other -type has a pipe or tubular cross member.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig122"> - -<img src="images/illo237.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 122. Steering Knuckle and Front Axle Parts</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>The front axle consists of an I-beam or tubular cross member, -which is yoked at each end as shown at A, in <a href="#Fig122">Fig. -122</a>. A<span class="pagenum" id="Page215">[215]</span> -steering knuckle B is held between the ends of the yoke by C, a -king pin, which allows the knuckle to swing in a half circle. -D, the spindle or short axle, is provided with a set of radial -thrust bearings. The wheel is adjusted snugly to the bearings -E by a castillated nut F. The adjustment is held by a cotter -pin which extends through the spindle and head of the nut F. -A short arm extends backward from each steering knuckle, -shown at G, in <a href="#Fig122">Fig. 122</a>, and are connected together by an adjustable -tie or spread rod shown at H. A half circle ball arm -extends from the knuckle and circles over the axle. A rod or -drag link forms the connection between the ball arm and the -steering arm of the steering gear. <a href="#Fig123">Fig. 123</a> shows the location -of the parts assembled on a typical drop forged I-beam -front axle. A section of the hub has been removed to show -the location of the double row radial end thrust ball bearings.<span class="pagenum" id="Page216">[216]</span> -This type of bearing is becoming very popular for automobile -uses.</p> - -<p><b>Adjustments of the Semi-floating Type of Axle.</b>—The short -shaft carried in the forward part of the housing has a center -nut adjustment between the universal joint and the pinion -gear; moving this notched nut to the right facing the rear -axle draws the shaft backward and meshes the teeth of the -pinion gear deeper with the teeth of the ring gear. After -this adjustment is made, examine the teeth for even mesh; it -may be necessary to shift the differential unit to secure an even -bearing. (<i>See</i> chapter on <a href="#Page207">differential gears</a> for detailed instructions -in regard to differential adjusting.)</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig123"> - -<img src="images/illo238.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 123. I-Beam Front Axle</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Adjustments on the Full-floating Axle.</b>—The adjustments -on the full-floating axle are usually made by shifting the differential -unit, although a pinion gear adjustment is usually -provided as described above.</p> - -<p><b>Care.</b>—The housing of both the semi-floating and the full-floating -axle should receive a fresh supply of medium fiber or -graphite grease every thousand miles. To grease, remove the -plug on the large part of the housing and force in grease with -a dope gun until it begins to bulge out of the hole.</p> - -<p>Wash out the housing every five thousand miles, and replace -the lubricant, as small metallic particles are worn off the gear -teeth and this grit, which is destructive to the gears and bearings, -mixes with the grease making it necessary to remove it -that often.</p> - -<p>A grease cup will be found located at the outer end of each -half of the axle housing, which supplies the lubricant for the -outer bearing. This grease cup should be filled weekly with a -medium cup grease and given a half turn each day.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page217">[217]</span></p> - -<p><b>Care of Front Axle.</b>—Pack the space between the bearings -in the hub of the wheel every thousand miles. Use a heavy -cup grease. The king bolts which hold the steering knuckles -between the ends of the yokes are hollow and carry a grease -cup on the head, which forces the grease out through finely -perforated holes, and lubricates the bushings on which the -pins take their bearing. This cup should be filled weekly and -given a half turn each day.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page218">[218]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">BRAKE TYPES, OPERATION AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>An automobile is always equipped with two sets of brakes, -as they are required by law. The functional action of the -brakes is to check the motion of the car when the driver wishes -to stop or reduce the rolling speed. The service brake usually -operates on the external surface, or on the outside of the drum -flange, and is connected to the right foot pedal through a set -of linkage. The emergency brake operates on the internal -surface of the drum, and connects through linkage to a hand -lever operating on a notched quadrant. The service brake is -used in ordinary driving to check the rolling motion and to -stop the car. The emergency brake is used to assist the -service brake and to hold the car, in case the driver wishes to -allow it to stand on a grade.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig124">Fig. 124</a> shows a set of brakes assembled on the axle ready -to receive the horizontal flange of the brake drum. The brake -drum is attached to the wheel; consequently when a wheel has -been removed and is about to be replaced, the first operation -consists of starting the drum flange into the space between the -lining of the external and internal bands; care should always -be exercised in making this adjustment, in order not to burr -the outer edge of the lining, as a brake with an uneven frictional -contact surface is of little value in checking the motion -of the car.</p> - -<p>In <a href="#Fig124">Fig. 124</a>, A shows the position of the band on the inside -of the drum; B shows the contracting tension coil spring which -holds the bearing surfaces of the band in contact with the -flat surface of the cam when the brake is not in use; C shows -the cam shaft, and the flat surfaces of the double action cam, -which expands the band and brings it into even contact with<span class="pagenum" id="Page219">[219]</span> -the inner horizontal surface of drum flange, thereby checking -the motion of the wheel by frictionally grasping the drum.</p> - -<p>The service brake shown in <a href="#Fig124">Fig. 124</a> is of the external contracting -type, which operates on, or frictionally grasps the -outside horizontal surface of the drum. D shows the lined -band, which is held in a stationary position from the rear; E -shows the leverage arrangement with its expanding coil spring, -which holds the band free from the drum, when the brake is -not in use; F is the lever to which the pull rod is connected; -G is the lever on the internal brake cam shaft to which the -hand lever is connected by the pull rod.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig124"> - -<img src="images/illo241.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 124. Brake—Types and Adjustment</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig125">Fig. 125</a> shows a new type of internal expanding brake, -which is being used on many of the late models. The brake -band in this case is supported at three points and has an adjustment -at the rear main point of support. The cam has -been done away with, and the band is expanded by a leverage -toggle arrangement which operates through a much larger area, -and is more dependable as there is no danger of its “sticking” -or turning over, as was often the case with the cam.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig126">Fig. 126</a> shows another type of service brake which may be -encountered on a few of the former models. This type of<span class="pagenum" id="Page220">[220]</span> -brake is usually located on the propeller shaft at the rear end -of the transmission case. This type of brake operates in the -same manner as the service brake at the end of the axle.</p> - -<div class="container w35em" id="Fig125"> - -<img src="images/illo242a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 125. Brake—Showing Toggle Arrangement</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig126">Fig. 126</a> shows an equalizer which allows for any difference -that may occur in making adjustments.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig126"> - -<img src="images/illo242b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 126. Transmission Brake—Equalizer</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig127">Fig. 127</a> shows the complete brake assembly, and the points -of adjustment on late Buick cars.</p> - -<p><b>Brake Adjustment.</b>—All types of brakes are adjustable.<span class="pagenum" id="Page221">[221]</span> -The service brake usually has two adjusting points, one at the -drum, which is made by turning the nut on the leverage pull -pin, and another on the pull rods. A long neck clevis, or a -long butted turn buckle will always be found on the pull rods, -or on the rod leading to the equalizer. The adjustment is -made by turning either to the right to shorten, or take up, and -to the left to lengthen. The clevis is always threaded to the -right, while the turn buckle has a right and left thread which -carries each end of the rod into the butt when it is turned -to the right. The lock nuts must always be turned up tight -to the butts after the adjustment is made in order to hold it.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig127"> - -<img src="images/illo243.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w45emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" class="w33pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="6"> </td> -<td class="left">BRAKE SHAFT</td> -<td class="left">SERVICE BRAKE PEDAL</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">PULL RODS</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">ADJUSTING TURNBUCKLE</td> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">EMERGENCY BRAKE<br> -LEVER</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">INTERNAL BRAKE SHAFT</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">EXTERNAL BRAKE SHAFT</td> -<td rowspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">ADJUSTING THUMB SCREW</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">ADJUSTMENT</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">INTERNAL BRAKE BAND</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">EXTERNAL BRAKE BAND</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 127. Brake—Arrangement and Adjustment—“Buick”</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Brake Care.</b>—A great deal depends upon the proper operation -of the brakes. They should be regularly inspected at -least once a month for loose adjustments and uncleanliness. -The need of adjustment usually occurs from natural wear, -while an unclean frictional surface is usually the result of oil -or grease seepage through the outer axle bearing. A felt -washer is provided to prevent this from taking place, but as -these washers are subjected to considerable pressure, they often -become caked and hardened and lose their absorbing effectiveness. -These washers can be purchased at any accessory store -for a few cents apiece, and applied with very little trouble.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page222">[222]</span></p> - -<p><b>Cleaning the Surface of the Brake Bands.</b>—This is accomplished -by removing the wheel and washing the friction contact -surface with gasoline, after the surfaces have become thoroughly -dry. Drop three or four drops of castor or Neat’s foot -oil on the contact surfaces of the drum, and replace the wheel -and spin it a few times before releasing the jack.</p> - -<p><b>Caution.</b>—After you have set the gears for starting, and -before you release the clutch pedal, always reach and make -sure that the emergency brake lever is in the neutral position. -New drivers invariably forget to do this, which results in severe -strain on the bearings, and causes them to get loose; the -average brake band will not stand more than fifteen to twenty -minutes of continuous contact before it burns or wears beyond -the point of usefulness.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page223">[223]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXIV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">SPRING CARE TESTS</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Information recently gathered from observation and interviews -shows that the average owner who operates and cares for -his car, invariably overlooks the springs and their connections -while giving the car the bi-monthly or monthly tightening-up -and greasing, while the balance of the car usually receives -the required attention.</p> - -<p>This fact seems to be due mostly to an oversight, for the -springs are usually inspected while the car is motionless and -at this time they do not show defects readily, and have -the appearance of being rigid, inactive, and compact.</p> - -<p><b>Weekly Spring Care.</b>—Weekly spring care should consist -of filling the grease cups (with a medium hard oil cup grease) -and turning them down until the grease makes its appearance -at the outer edge of the spring eye. This, under ordinary -driving conditions, will be sufficient lubrication for one week. -But in cases where the car receives more than ordinary use -the grease cups should be given one-half turn every second -day. The shackle connections should then be wiped dry to -prevent dust and grit clinging and working into the bearing, -which causes much wear on even a sufficiently lubricated bearing -surface.</p> - -<p><b>Bi-monthly Spring Care.</b>—Special attention should be given -at this time to the U-shaped clips which connect the spring -to the axle. A loose clip means a broken spring at the first -severe jolt, caused by the rebound taking place between the -clips. Therefore, tightly adjusted clips will prevent action -from taking place at the point between the clips where the -leaves are bolted together and will entirely eliminate spring<span class="pagenum" id="Page224">[224]</span> -breakage. Tighten up the nut on the leave guide clip bolt to -prevent rattling. The shackles should be inspected for side -play. To determine whether there is side play, jack up the -frame until the weight is off the spring, then grasp it near the -shackle and shake with an in and out motion. If there is -play a rattle thump will be heard. To take out play, remove -cotter pin and turn up castillated nut snugly on the shackle -pin. If the nut cannot be turned up a full notch, place a thin -washer over the end of the pin. The nut, however, should -not be turned up too tight as a certain amount of action is -necessary.</p> - -<p><b>Lubrication of the Spring Leaves.</b>—Lubrication of the -spring leaves should take place once every month. This -point must be kept in mind and adhered to, as a spring cannot -produce the marked degree of action necessary for smooth -and easy riding, when the sliding surface is dry and rusty. -The leaves slide on each other when the spring opens and -closes, and if the sliding surface is not well lubricated the -movement will be greatly checked by the dry friction; these -dry surfaces also gather dampness which soon forms into -dry-rust, which, in time entirely retards action and results -in a very hard riding car.</p> - -<p>It is not necessary to disassemble the spring at the monthly -greasing period, unless the spring has been neglected and -rust has formed on the sliding surfaces. In this case the -sliding surface of each blade must be cleaned with a piece of -sand or emery paper.</p> - -<p>When the springs receive regular attention, it is only necessary -to jack up the frame until the wheels and axles are -suspended, the weight of which will usually open the leaves -sufficiently to insert a film of graphite grease with a thin case -knife. In some cases where the leaves are highly curved, it -may be found necessary to drive a small screwdriver in between -them. However, great care should be exercised in doing -this, as the blades are highly tempered and spring out of -position very easily.</p> - -<p><b>Wrapping Springs.</b>—Car owners in some parts of the country<span class="pagenum" id="Page225">[225]</span> -grease their springs and wrap them with heavy cord or adhesive -tape. While this serves to keep the grease in and the -dust and dirt out, it also binds the leaves and prevents free -action. If the car is to be driven for any length of time on -sandy or muddy roads, wrapping may be found very beneficial. -But use only a water-proof material (heavy oil paper -or canvas) to wrap with. Cut the material into one and one-fourth -inch strips, and wrap from the center toward the outer -end to prevent binding.</p> - -<p>The following shows the results of a spring care test conducted -by the writer. The cars were chosen at random and -only those accepted which had seen six months or more -service.</p> - -<p>Eighteen owners were interviewed. Six of this number gave -their springs a thorough greasing and tightening up every -two weeks, and not one of this group made a complaint of -any nature regarding breakage, stiffness, or noise.</p> - -<p>Five of the remaining twelve, gave their springs occasional -attention. Their reports were not entirely unsatisfactory, but -had a tendency toward such troubles as rattles, squeaks, and -stiffness in action.</p> - -<p>The remaining seven did not give their springs any attention -whatever, and all made unsatisfactory reports ranging -from broken leaves, to side play, jingles, squeaks and hard -riding.</p> - -<p>Therefore the results of careful and regular attention may -readily be seen by the reports of the first six owners. All -nuts and connections were tightened, and the sliding surfaces -of the leaves greased on an average of once every two weeks. -The springs gave satisfactory results, and the cars retained -that easy, soft, springy action, so noticeable in a new car.</p> - -<p>The reports of the five who gave their springs occasional -attention would probably have been the same as the first six, -had they given the proper attention more frequently. But -they usually waited until the trouble became annoying, which -caused wear on the spring eye, shackle strap, and pin, on -each occurrence making a good adjustment impossible. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page226">[226]</span> -stiffness in action and squeaks were caused by dry fractional -surfaces between the leaves which prevented free action.</p> - -<p><b>Types.</b>—There are five standard types of springs, and two -or three types of special design. The riding qualities of -all types of springs depend on their length and resiliency, -which is taken into consideration by the engineer and designer. -Consequently there is not much choice between the -different types.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig128"> - -<img src="images/illo248a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 128. <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>-Elliptical Front Spring</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig128">Fig. 128</a> shows the semi-elliptical type of spring used principally -for front suspension. The front end of this spring -is bolted rigidly to the downward end slope of the frame while -the rear end carries a movable shackle arrangement.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig129"> - -<img src="images/illo248b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 129. Full-Elliptic Spring</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig129">Fig. 129</a> shows the full elliptical type of spring which may -be used for either front or rear suspension. The ends may -be fastened together solidly with a yoke and eye arrangement, -or shackled as shown in the above cut.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page227">[227]</span></p> - -<p><a href="#Fig130">Fig. 130</a> shows a spring of the three-quarters elliptical -type used in rear suspension only. This type of spring carries -a shackle arrangement at the front and rear end which -allows backward and forward motion to take place very freely, -consequently it is very necessary to use a very substantial set -of torque rods to keep the proper alignment.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig130"> - -<img src="images/illo249a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 130. <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>-Elliptical Rear Spring</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig131">Fig. 131</a> shows the three link or commonly termed platform -type of spring used only in rear suspension on the heavier -models.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig131"> - -<img src="images/illo249b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 131. Platform Spring</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig132">Fig. 132</a> shows the front type of cantilever spring. The -front end of this type of spring is bolted to a seat on the -front axle, while the rear end may be fastened directly to -the under side of the frame or attached to a specially arranged<span class="pagenum" id="Page228">[228]</span> -casting seat at the side of the frame. This type of -spring is sometimes employed in multiple formation.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig132"> - -<img src="images/illo250a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 132. Cantilever Spring, Front</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig133"> - -<img src="images/illo250b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 133. Cantilever Spring, Rear</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig133">Fig. 133</a> shows the rear type of cantilever spring, which -may employ a shackle arrangement on one or both sides, while -a hinged seat is usually employed near the center or slightly -over-center toward the front end.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page229">[229]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ALIGNMENT</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Attention should be given quite frequently to wheel alignment, -as the life and service of tires depends almost entirely -upon wheel alignment.</p> - -<p>When either of the front wheels become out of line, through -a bent spindle, worn spindle pin, loose or worn bearing the -tire on this wheel is subject to cross traction. That is, when -the car moves forward, the tire on the out of line wheel is -forced to move forward by the other three points of traction, -and as it is not in line with the forward movement the tire -must push or drag crosswise at the traction point. This results -in the tread being worn or filed off in a very short time, -exposing the layers of fabric to dampness and wear which -results in a “blow-out” and ruined tire, which would probably -have given several thousand miles of service had proper attention -been given to wheel alignment.</p> - -<p><b>Alignment Test.</b>—To test the alignment, first look at the -lower side of the springs where they rest on the axle seats. -If one of the springs has slipped on the seat through a loose -clamp, the direction and distance of the slip may be noted -by the rust mark left by the movement. Drive the axle back, -leave the clamp loose, measure the distance between the centers -of the front and rear hub caps on the unaffected side -with a tape or string, move the tape to the affected side and -make the center distances the same, tighten the nuts on all -clamps using new spring or lock washers.</p> - -<p><b>Lengthwise Wheel Alignment.</b>—Before lining up the wheels -lengthwise, jack each wheel separately and shake it to detect a -loose bearing or worn spindle pin which is usually the seat of -the trouble. After the defective part has been readjusted or<span class="pagenum" id="Page230">[230]</span> -replaced, test the alignment as follows: Using a string or -straight edge, which should be placed or drawn across the -front and rear tire, making four contacts as near center as -possible without interference from the hubs. The string or -straight edge is then moved to the other side of the car and -three contacts are made, one on the rear center of the front -tire, and two across the center of the rear tire. The spread -rod should then be adjusted to allow the front contact point -to converge or lean from the line toward the other front -wheel.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig134"> - -<img src="images/illo252.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 134. Wheel-Alignment Diagram</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Mechanical Alignment.</b>—When a motor vehicle turns the -inside wheel has to describe a curve of smaller radius than -the outside wheel. A line drawn lengthwise through the -steering arms, extending from the spindles or knuckles, should -meet at a point in the center of the rear axle to determine the -correct wheel base, otherwise the car will turn in two angles, -which causes the tire on the outside to slide crosswise at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page231">[231]</span> -traction point. <a href="#Fig134">Fig. 134</a> shows the position of the wheels and -the direction they travel in describing two distinct curves in -turning to the left. The correct mechanical alignment and -wheel base will be seen in the diagram, A B. The front -wheels have been turned to a 45 per cent angle, e-e1 lines -drawn through the spindles will meet at E, a line drawn -through the rear axle. E1 in this diagram shows the effect -on the steering of lengthening the wheel base of the car. In -this case the wheel base has been lengthened 10″ and the -lines e and e1 meet at different angles at a point on E1. -The car tries to turn about two distinct centers, as this is an -impossibility, sliding of the tire occurs.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page232">[232]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXVI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">STEERING GEARS, TYPE, CONSTRUCTION</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><span class="smcap">Operation and Care</span></p> - -<p>The steering mechanism used in automobile construction is -arranged to operate independent of the axle, or in other -words the wheels turn on a pivot, or knuckle, held between -the yoked ends of the axle. A spindle or axle extends outward -from each steering knuckle to accommodate the wheels. -A set of short arms extend to rear of the steering knuckles; an -adjustable spacer bar, commonly called a tie or spread rod, -serves as the connection between the arms. The arms incline -slightly toward each other; which causes the inside -wheel to turn on a shorter angle than the outside wheel when -turning a corner. Another steering arm carrying a ball at the -outer end, describes a half circle over the axle, and is attached -to either the spread rod arm or the steering knuckle. -An adjustable rod, or drag-link, carrying a ball socket at -each end serves as the connection between the steering arm -extending from steering gear and the half circle arm of the -knuckle. To adjust wheels see chapter on “<a href="#Page229">Wheels and Axle -Alignment</a>.”</p> - -<p><b>Steering Gear Types.</b>—Three types of steering gears are -commonly used by automobile manufacturers. They are -namely, the worm and sector, worm and nut, and rack and -pinion types.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig135">Fig. 135</a> shows the construction and operation of the worm -and sector type. The lower end of the steering shaft carries a -worm gear which meshes with the sector gear supported by a -separate shaft. The sector has a ball arm extending downward,<span class="pagenum" id="Page233">[233]</span> -which moves in a forward and backward direction when -the steering shaft is turned.</p> - -<div class="container w45em" id="Fig135"> - -<img src="images/illo255.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w12emmax"> - -<p>Steering Wheel</p> - -<p class="noindent">St. Column -<span class="righttext">Worm</span></p> - -<p class="right">Sector</p> - -<p class="right">Spark</p> - -<p class="right">Throttle</p> - -<p class="right">Frame</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 135. Worm and Sector Steering Gear</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><b>Adjusting the Worm and Sector Type of Steering Gear.</b>—An -eccentric bushing is provided to take up play between the -worm and sector. This adjustment is made by driving the -notched cone to the right to take out play, and to the left to -slack up or take out stiffness.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig136">Fig. 136</a> shows the worm and nut type of steering gear. -This type of steering gear as well as the worm and sector, is -called the irreversible steering gear, which means that no -reverse action takes place, or is present at the steering -wheel, should one of the front wheels encounter a stone in -the road, or drop into a deep rut. The worm and nut type -consists of a double armed and pivoted steering arm. Each -arm carries a ball. The drag link socket is attached to the -ball on the lower arm while the ball on the upper and shorter -arm fits in a socket in the nut through which the worm on the -steering shaft passes. This nut is threaded to fit the worm -which passes through it and moves up and down on the worm -according to the direction which the steering wheel is turned.<span class="pagenum" id="Page234">[234]</span> -The housing of this type of steering must be well packed with -a light cup or graphic grease to prevent the screw or worm -from binding, which will make steering difficult and tiresome.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig136"> - -<img src="images/illo256a.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="3"> </td> -<td class="center">Steering Column</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Worm Screw</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Nut</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Pivot</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="center">Frame</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Drag Link</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">St. Arm</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 136. Worm and Nut Type Steering Gear</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig137"> - -<img src="images/illo256b.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w15emmax"> - -<p>Steering Shaft</p> - -<p>Ball</p> - -<p class="right">Gear</p> - -<p class="right">Housing</p> - -<p class="noindent">Sliding tooth Shaft</p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 137. Rack and Pinion Type Steering Gear</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig137">Fig. 137</a> shows the rack and pinion type of steering gear. -This type of steering gear is used on a few of the lighter -weight cars and is not as dependable owing to a reverse action -through the steering mechanism when an obstruction is encountered -by one of the front wheels. This type of steering -device consists of a solid shaft with the steering wheel keyed -to the upper end.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page235">[235]</span></p> - -<p>A small spur gear is keyed and locked to the lower end, -and meshes with a horizontal toothed shaft which slides inside -of a housing. The connection between the steering gear and -the steering knuckles is made by a short rod or drag link -carrying a split ball seat on each end. One end of -the drag link socket is fitted to a ball on the end of the horizontal -toothed shaft, while the socket on the other end is -fitted to a ball on the upper end of the bolt which connects -the tie rod and knuckle.</p> - -<p><b>Steering Gear Care.</b>—Steering gears should be closely adjusted. -The housing should be packed with a medium hard -oil or graphite grease at least once in every thousand miles -that the car is driven. All bolts and nuts connecting the -different parts of the steering gear should be regularly inspected -and kept in a perfectly tight condition.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig138"> - -<img src="images/illo257.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 138. Steering Wheel</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig138">Fig. 138</a> shows the location of the spark and gas control -levers which usually operate on a quadrant on the upper side -of the steering wheel. The short lever always controls the -spark, which may be advanced or retarded by moving it. The -long lever is attached to the carburetor, and controls the speed -of the motor by regulating the volume of gas vapor supplied -to the motor.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page236">[236]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXVII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">BEARING TYPES, USE AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Three types of bearings are being used by the manufacturers -of automobiles and gasoline engines. They are, namely, the -plain bearing or bushing, the solid and flexible roller-bearing, -and the double and single row of self-aligning ball bearings.</p> - -<p>Bearings were designed to prevent wear and friction between -parts, which operate on, or against each other.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig139">Fig. 139</a> shows three types of plain bearings. A, the split -type of plain bearing, is used widely by the manufacturers -of engines as main bearings to support the crank shaft and -at the large end of the connecting rod. B is a cylindrical -type of plain end bushing, used to support light shafts in end -walls. C is a center or sleeve type of plain bushing.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig139"> - -<img src="images/illo258.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 139. Plain Bearings or Bushings</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p>All three types of plain bearings described above will stand -unusually hard use, but must be kept well lubricated or run -in an oil bath to prevent frictional heating and excessive -wear. <a href="#Fig140">Fig. 140</a> shows two types of shims used between the -retainer jaw of a split bearing, which allows the wear to be -taken up when the bearing gets loose and begins to pound. -The shims may be either solid or loose leafed, and are of -different thickness. The loose leafed shim has an outer casing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page237">[237]</span> -which contains seven to ten metal sheets of paper-like thinness, -which may be removed to the exact thickness required for -an accurately fitted bearing.</p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig140"> - -<img src="images/illo259a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 140. Shims</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig141"> - -<img src="images/illo259b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 141. Bock Roller Bearing</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig141">Fig. 141</a> shows the Bock type of radial and end thrust -roller bearing. The end of each roller is provided with a section -of a perfect sphere which rolls in unison with the tapered -rollers and makes the end contact practically frictionless. The -advantage claimed for this type of bearing is that it embodies -both the ball and roller bearing strength and reduces the -friction on the roller and thrust end to a minimum. This type -of bearing is used in the hub of the wheel, which must be -cleaned and well packed with a medium grease every thousand<span class="pagenum" id="Page238">[238]</span> -miles. The bearing is best cleaned by dropping it into a -container of kerosene and scrubbing it with a stiff paint brush. -Do not run the car with the hub cap off.</p> - -<div class="container w50em" id="Fig142"> - -<img src="images/illo260.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 142. Hyatt Roller Bearing</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig142">Fig. 142</a> shows the Hyatt flexible type of roller bearing. -This type consists of an inner and outer race and a cage -which holds the flexible rolls. The flexible rolls are spirally -wound from a high grade sheet alloy steel. The rolls are -placed in the cage in alternative positions. This arrangement -of rollers has a tendency to work the grease back and -forth on the surfaces of the races. Another advantage claimed -for this type of bearing, is that the weight is more evenly distributed -at the point of contact, due to the fact that the -wound rolls allow a certain amount of resiliency, and accepts -road shocks easily, which reduces the amount of frictional -wear to a minimum. This type of bearing requires the same -attention as the Bock, described above.</p> - -<div class="container w15em" id="Fig143"> - -<img src="images/illo261.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 143. Double Row Radial Ball Bearing</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig143">Fig. 143</a> shows a type of double row ball bearings. Ball -bearings are being used more extensively each year by the -manufacturers of light and heavy duty motor vehicles. The -efficient reliability and ease of action has proven to be the -main factor in the development of this type of bearing. One -of the big features in considering ball bearings is that a ball -rolls equally well in any direction, and the slightest effort<span class="pagenum" id="Page239">[239]</span> -will start it to rolling. It is a proven fact, that a ball is -started more easily than any other type of supportive element. -This explains why ball bearings of all types come -nearest to being frictionless. Once upon a time people believed -that the ball in ball bearings carried the load by point -of contact, which is not true, as ball bearings carry the load -on a definite area. And in bearing construction, such as shown -in <a href="#Fig143">Fig. 143</a>, where the inner and outer -race curves around the<span class="pagenum" id="Page240">[240]</span> -balls and increases the contact area, the contact capacity is -greatly increased. Thus a one-fourth inch S. K. F. ball showed -a crushing resistance of nine thousand and seven hundred -pounds, while the one-half inch ball showed a crushing strength -of twenty-five thousand pounds. The sectional view of a -radial bearing, shown in <a href="#Fig142">Fig. 142</a>, consists essentially of four -elements, which are the following: (a) The outer ball race, -(b) the two rows of balls, (c) the ball retainer, and (d) the -inner ball race.</p> - -<p>The inner surface of the outer race is spherically ground -in the form of a section of a sphere whose center is the center -of the axis of rotation. This provides that both rows of balls -shall carry the load at all times. This reduces the load carried -by each ball to the least amount.</p> - -<p>The ball retainer is made of a single piece, which provides -for proper spacing of the balls, and positively circulates the -lubricant. The retainer is open at the sides, which permits -free access of lubricant, and makes inspection easy.</p> - -<p>The inner ball race contains two grooves to accommodate -the two rows of balls, and the curvature of the outer race -is slightly larger than that of the balls. The fact that both -inner and outer races are curved gives an ample surface contact -between the balls and the races.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig144">Fig. 144</a> shows a double thrust bearing. This type of bearing -was designed to take end thrust in both directions. It is -used to stabilize the shaft against lateral motion and to -accept reversing thrust loads. It is also automatically self-aligning.</p> - -<p>The assembly of balls and races forms a section of a -sphere within a steel casing. The inside of this casing is -ground spherically to the same radius as the spherical seats, -thus permitting the assembled bearing parts to adjust themselves -to any shaft deflection.</p> - -<p>This type of double thrust bearing is so designed that the -central rotating disc, two rows of balls, and the aligning seats -are combined in a single unit within the casting.</p> - -<p>The unit construction of this type of bearing insures ease<span class="pagenum" id="Page241">[241]</span> -in mounting, and eliminates much costly machine work usually -encountered in setting double thrust bearings, and renders the -bearing practically dirt, dust and fool-proof. If it becomes -necessary to disassemble the machine upon which these bearings -are mounted, the user has every assurance that the shafts -can be relocated precisely in its original position, with the -minimum of time, labor and expense. This type of bearing is -also entirely free from adjustment, loose parts, costly machine -work, and the possible abuse at the hands of inexperienced -workman are entirely done away with.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Fig144"> - -<img src="images/illo263a.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 144. Double Row Thrust Bearing</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="container" id="Fig145"> - -<img src="images/illo263b.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 145. End Thrust Bearing</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><a href="#Fig145">Fig. 145</a> shows a thrust bearing designed to carry the load -in one direction, along the shaft, and consists of two hardened -steel discs provided with grooved ball-races, and a single row -of balls held in position between the races by means of a -suitable retainer.</p> - -<p><b>Cleaning Bearings.</b>—To clean bearings, use gasoline, kerosene,<span class="pagenum" id="Page242">[242]</span> -or a weak solution of baking soda and soft water. Place -the cleaning fluid in a shallow receptacle, take a piece of wire -and bend a hook on the end, place the hook through the center -of the bearing and rinse up and down in the fluid, spinning it -with the hand occasionally. If some of the grease has dried -or baked on the roll or roller guide or retainer and refuses to -be dislodged by this method, lay the bearing flat and scrub -with a brush which has been dipped into the cleaning fluid.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page243">[243]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXVIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">CAR ARRANGEMENT, PARTS, ADJUSTMENT, CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">1</a>. Oil cup on shackle bolt or loop pin. Fill every week -with medium cup grease giving one half turn every second day.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">2</a>. Right front spring. Loosen the small clips <a href="#Fig146">No. 47</a>, clean -off all dirt and grease with a brush dipped in kerosene, and -jack up the frame, which will open the leaves. Force graphite -between the leaves, let the frame down and wipe off all the -grease that is forced out, in order to avoid the gathering of -dust and grit (see chapter on <a href="#Page223">Spring Care</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">3</a>. Front lamp. Keep brackets and vibration rod well -tightened. Wipe lens with a damp cloth (inside and outside), -and polish with tissue paper. Adjust or focus both lamps so -that the center rays will strike side by side 45 feet ahead of -the car. Push the light bulbs well into the sockets, otherwise -a dark spot will appear in the center. Test the wire connection -plugs occasionally for weak springs or sticking contact -pins.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">4</a>. Radiator (see chapter on <a href="#Page82">Cooling Systems</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">5</a>. Radiator Cap. Grease or oil thread occasionally.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">6</a>. Radiator connecting hose (see chapter on <a href="#Page82">Cooling Systems</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">7</a>. The fan. It usually operates on a ball and cone bearing, -which must be kept well adjusted and greased to prevent -a clattering or rumbling noise.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">8</a>. The fan belt. This should be well tightened to prevent -slipping, which will cause over-heating. Apply belt dressing -occasionally to prevent dry-rot and cracking.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">9</a>. Adjust the starter chain from time to time by setting -down the idler gear.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">10</a>. Metal tube for carrying the high tension leads to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page244">[244]</span> -spark plugs. Remove the wires from the tube when overhauling -and tape worn insulation.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">11</a>. Spark plugs (see chapter on <a href="#Page186">Spark Plug Care</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">12</a>. The horn. Keep connection tight, clean gum and old -grease off the armature and adjust the brushes when it fails to -work.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">13</a>. Priming cups. Cover the threads with graphite or white -lead and screw them into the cylinder head tightly to prevent -compression leaks.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">14</a>. Horn bracket. Keep well tightened, to prevent vibration.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">15</a>. Clutch pedal. It can usually be lengthened or shortened -to accommodate leg stretch, oil and grease bearings, and -connecting joint each week.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">16</a>. Primer or choker, which operates the air valve on the -carburetor.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">17</a>. Steering column.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">18</a>. Steering wheel (see chapter on <a href="#Page232">Steering Gears</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">19</a>. Horn shorting push button.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">20</a>. Spark control lever.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">21</a>. Gas throttle control.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">22</a>. Transmission (see chapter on <a href="#Page198">Transmission</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">23</a>. Brake rods (see chapter on <a href="#Page218">Brakes</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">24</a>. Universal joint (see chapter on <a href="#Page204">Universal Joints</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">25</a>. The frame.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">26</a>. Emergency brake leverage connection.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">27</a>. Service brake leverage connection.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">28</a>. Threaded clevis for lengthening or shortening brake -rods.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">29</a>. Crown fender.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">30</a>. India rubber bumper.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">31</a>. Brake band guide.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">32</a>. Gasoline or fuel tank.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">33</a>. Filler spout and cap.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">34</a>. Spring shackle hinge.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">35</a>. Tire carrier.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">36</a>. Spare tire and demountable rim.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page245">[245]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig146"> - -<img src="images/illo267.jpg" alt=""> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 146. Car Arrangement</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page246">[246]</span></p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">37</a>. Radiator fastening stud.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">38</a>. Starting crank ratchet.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">39</a>. Spread rod with left and right threaded clevis at each -end.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">40</a>. The crank case.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">41</a>. Crank case drainage plug.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">42</a>. The flywheel and clutch.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">43</a>. Box for carrying storage battery.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">44</a>. Transmission drain plug.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">45</a>. The muffler (see chapter on <a href="#Page86">Muffler Care</a>).</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">46</a>. Main drive shaft.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">47</a>. Spring blade alignment clamp.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">48</a>. Rear universal joint.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">49</a>. Service brake lever.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">50</a>. Demountable rim clamp bolt.</p> - -<p><a href="#Fig146">51</a>. Differential housing on rear axle.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page247">[247]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XXXIX</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">OVERHAULING THE CAR</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Before starting to dismantle the car for overhauling, see -that all the necessary tools are at hand and in good condition. -Place them out separately on a bench or board near -the car. Then secure a number of boxes to hold the parts of -each unit in order that they may not become intermixed.</p> - -<p>When overhauling is to take place, start at the front of the -car and work back. First, disconnect and remove the radiator -and inspect the tubes for dents or jams. If any of any consequence -are found, pry the fins up and down on the tubes -clearing the affected part, which is removed and replaced with -a new piece of tubing and soldered in place. Then turn a -stream of water into the radiator and let it run for fully an -hour, or until it is fully flushed out. Next, inspect the hose -connections, as the rubber lining often becomes cracked and -breaks away from the fabric which retards the circulation, by -filling the passage with hanging shreds of rubber. Then plug -up the lower entrance to the water jackets and fill the jackets -with a solution of 2 gal. of water to <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> lb. of washing soda. -Let this solution stand in the jackets for one-half hour; then -flush out with clean water. The carburetor and manifolds -should be removed and cleaned. The float, if cork, should be -allowed to dry. It is then given a coat of shellac and allowed -to dry before reassembling the carburetor.</p> - -<p>The engine should then be turned over slowly to test the -compression on each cylinder. If it is found to be strong on -each cylinder, the piston rings and cylinder wall may be -passed as being in good condition. In case you find one cylinder -is not as strong as the others, the trouble may be ascertained -by inspection. It may be caused by a scored cylinder<span class="pagenum" id="Page248">[248]</span> -wall, worn piston rings, leaky gasket, or pitted valve seats. -Next remove the head of the motor and remove the carbon with -a scraper and wash with kerosene. If the motor is not of the -detachable head type, remove the valve cup and use a round -wire brush to loosen the carbon. It is best in this case to burn -out the carbon with oxyacetylene flame.</p> - -<p>Next remove the valves and test the springs for shrinkage -or weakness. If any are found that do not conform in length, -replace them with new springs. Grind the valves (see previous -Chapter on <a href="#Ref05">Valve Grinding</a>).</p> - -<p>Next examine the water pump and pack the boxing with a -wick or hemp cylinder packing.</p> - -<p><b>Cleaning the Lubricating System.</b>—Remove the plug in the -bottom of the crank case and drain out the oil. Replace the -plug and pour 1 gal. of kerosene into the crank case through -the breather pipe and spin the motor. Then remove the drain -plug and allow the kerosene to drain out. After it has quit -running, turn the motor over a few times and allow it to -drain one-half hour. Replace the plug and fill the crank case -to the required level with fresh cylinder oil. Next, remove -the plate from the timing gear case and inspect the gears for -wear and play. If they are packed in grease, remove the old -grease and wash out the case with kerosene. If they receive -their oil supply from the crank case it will only be necessary -to inspect them for wear. Then replace the motor head, -timing gear case plate and manifolds, using new gaskets and -new lock washers. Next clean the spark plugs and ignition -systems (see chapter on <a href="#Page186">Spark Plugs</a> and <a href="#Page114">Ignition System</a>).</p> - -<p>Then we proceed to the different types of clutches. The -cone clutch usually does not require cleaning, but in cases -where it has been exposed to grease or lubricating oil the -leather face may be cleaned with a cloth dampened in kerosene, -after which a thin coating of Neat’s foot oil is applied to the -leather facing. The cone is then replaced and the springs adjusted -until it runs true. This is determined by holding it -out and spinning it.</p> - -<p>The wet and dry plate clutches are treated in much the same<span class="pagenum" id="Page249">[249]</span> -manner. First drain out all the oil or grease and wash out -the housing with kerosene. Examine all parts for wear and -adjust or replace loose parts. Fill the housing up to the -slip shaft with fresh oil or grease, that is, providing it is a -wet plate clutch. The dry plate clutch need only be washed -with kerosene to remove any grease or dirt that has lodged on -the plates.</p> - -<p><b>Cleaning the Transmission.</b>—First drain off the oil and -wash the gear with a brush dipped in kerosene. Then inspect -the bearings for looseness. If you find one badly worn, replace -the bearing at each end of the shaft. Next, examine the -gears. If they are blunt, burred or chipped, smooth them off -on an emery wheel or with a coarse file. Wash out the case -with kerosene and fill with a thick transmission oil or grease -until the fartherest up meshing point is covered to the -depth of from 1 to 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> inches. Examine the slots or notches -on the horizontal sliding shafts in the cover of the case which -holds the gears in or out of mesh. If the slots are badly worn -it will be necessary to replace sliding shafts or it may be necessary -to replace the springs which hold the ball or pin to the -shaft and slots.</p> - -<p>The universal joints are cleaned and freed of all grease and -dirt. The bushings and trunion head are inspected for looseness. -If any exists a new set of bushings will usually remedy -the trouble. The housing should then be packed with a -medium or fairly heavy cup grease.</p> - -<p>Next we come to the differential which is treated in the -same manner as the transmission, except that the housing is -packed with a much heavier grease, and new felt washers are -placed at the outer end of the housing where the axle extends -to the wheels.</p> - -<p>The rear system is then jacked up until both wheels clear -the ground. The brakes are then tested and adjusted (see -chapter on <a href="#Page218">Brakes</a>), and the rear wheels tested for looseness. -If the axle is of the full floating type looseness may be -taken up by withdrawing the axle and loosening the lock nut -back of the cone and driving the notched cone ring to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page250">[250]</span> -right (facing it) until the play is taken up. When looseness -is found in the semi-floating or three quarters floating axle it -is necessary to replace the outer bearing which is located -inside of the outer end of the housing tube.</p> - -<p>Next examine the springs (see chapter on <a href="#Page223">Springs and -Spring Tests</a>).</p> - -<p>This brings us to the steering gear, which should be inspected, -tightened up, and freed from all play at the various -joints and connections, after which it should be well packed -with grease.</p> - -<p>The front wheels should be jacked up and tested for loose -or worn bearings and spindle pins. The bearings can usually -be adjusted while the loose spindle pin or bushing should be -replaced. After the bearings have been adjusted or replaced, -pack the space in the hubs between the bearings with a medium -hard oil or cup grease, which will sufficiently lubricate the -bearings for 2000 miles of service.</p> - -<p>The wheels and axles are then lined up (See chapter on -<a href="#Page229">Alignment</a>).</p> - -<p>Next, take a piece of sharp wire and remove all the dirt, -gum, and hard grease from oil holes supplying clevis joints -and plain bearings. Take up all play which is liable to produce -noise and rattles with new bolts, pins and washers. -Clean and fill all grease cups boring out the stem heads with -a piece of wire.</p> - -<p>(See chapter on <a href="#Page253">Washing</a>, <a href="#Page262">Painting</a>, -and <a href="#Page263">Top and Body Care</a>.)</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page251">[251]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XL</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">REPAIR EQUIPMENT</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The necessary repair equipment should be divided into two -sets, one to be carried with the car, which we will call road -repair necessities, such as 25 ft. of <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″ manilla hemp rope, -which will probably come in very handy and save the original -cost many times in one year. Even with good roads and the -general tendency toward improvements, there still remains a -great many miles of bad road that becomes very troublesome -with their customary chuck holes and slippery brims, which -often lead a motorist to bring up in a ditch after a short rain -storm. The advantages of this rope are explained in this way; -should you slide into the ditch or get into a deep rut, the -wheels will usually spin and you are helplessly stuck. A pull -from a passing motorist, or farmer, will help you out of your -difficulty. Should any part of your car break, or give out, -any passing motorist or farmer will give you a tow to the -nearest garage and thereby avoid delays.</p> - -<p>Therefore, we will head our list of road repairs with: 25 -ft. of <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″ manilla hemp rope, 2 inner tubes, 1 blowout patch, -1 outer shoe, 1 set of chains, 1 jack, 1 pump, 1 tire gauge, 1 -tube repair outfit and patches, an extra spark plug, several -cores and terminals, a few feet of primary and secondary wire, -1 box of assorted bolts, nuts, washers and cotter pins, 1 qt. -can of lubricating oil, 1 complete set of good tools neatly -packed in a small box and secured to the floor of the car under -the rear seat by fastening both ends of a strap to the floor -and placing a buckle in the center which will hold the box -securely and avoid all noise.</p> - -<p>Garage repair equipment should consist of the following: -1 set of tire jacks, 1 small vulcanizing set and supplies, 1 can<span class="pagenum" id="Page252">[252]</span> -of medium cup grease, 1 can or tank of lubricating oil, 1 small -vise, 1 box of felt washers, 1 box of assorted cotter pins, 1 -box of assorted nuts, 1 box of assorted lock washers, 1 box -assorted cap screws and bolts, 1 set of assorted files, 1 hack -saw, 1 Stilson wrench, 1 dope gun, 1 air pressure oil can, 1 -valve lifter, several valve and assorted springs, 1 box of auto -soap, 1 sponge and a good chamois skin.</p> - -<p>This outfit should all be purchased at the same time and -each supply and tool packed or placed in respective places, -so that it will not be necessary to look far and wide when -you wish to use some particular tool. With this equipment, -and some knowledge and patience, the average man should -be able to keep his car in excellent condition by doing his -own adjusting and repairing.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page253">[253]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XLI</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">CAR CLEANING, WASHING AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><b>Body.</b>—The body is the carrying part of the car and usually -consists of an oak or ash frame covered with a thin sheet -steel. It is bolted to the frame of the car, and aside from -washing and cleaning and keeping the bolts tight to prevent -squeaks, it requires no further care.</p> - -<p><b>Body Washing.</b>—When about to wash the body, soak the -dirt off with a gentle open stream of cold water. That is, -remove the nozzle from the hose, and do not rub. Remove -mud before it gets dry and hard whenever possible. Grease -can be removed with soap suds and a soft sponge. Use a -neutral auto soap, and rub as little as possible. Rinse thoroughly -with a gentle stream of cold water, and dry and polish -with a clean piece of chamois skin. If the body has a -dull appearance after washing, due to sun exposure or too -frequent washing, apply a good body polish lightly and polish -until thoroughly dry with a clean piece of gauze or cheese -cloth.</p> - -<p><b>Running Gear Washing.</b>—Scrape the caked grease and dirt -off from the brake drums and axles, and scrub lightly with a -soft brush dipped in soap suds. Rinse thoroughly with a -gentle stream of cold water. Dry with a piece of cloth or a -chamois. Old pieces of chamois skin which are too dirty to -use on the body can be used to dry the running gear. If the -running gear takes on a dirty appearance after becoming dry, -go over it with a cloth dampened with body polish. Tighten -up all bolts and make all adjustments while the car is clean.</p> - -<p><b>Engine Cleaning.</b>—Clean the engine with a paint brush -dipped in kerosene. Then go over it with a cloth dampened -with kerosene.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page254">[254]</span></p> - -<p><b>Top Cleaning.</b>—The top should never be folded until it is -thoroughly cleaned and dried. Dust on the outside can be removed -by washing it with clear cold water and castile soap. -Be sure to rinse it thoroughly with clear water. The inside -should be dusted out with a whisk broom. Be careful when -folding it and see that the cloth is not pinched between the -sockets and bows, and always put on the slip cover when it is -folded to keep out the dust and dirt.</p> - -<p><b>Curtain Cleaning.</b>—Wash the curtains with castile soap. -After they are dry go over them with a cloth dampened in -body polish. Always roll the curtains; never fold them.</p> - -<p><b>Cleaning Upholstering.</b>—If the car is upholstered with -leather or imitation leather, it should be washed with warm -water and castile soap, then wiped off thoroughly with a clean -cloth dampened in clear warm water. If the upholstering is -with cloth it should be brushed thoroughly with a stiff whisk -broom, then gone over lightly with a cloth dampened in water -to which a few drops of washing ammonia has been added.</p> - -<p><b>Rug Cleaning.</b>—Clean the rugs with a vacuum cleaner, or -stiff whisk broom.</p> - -<p><b>Windshield Cleaning.</b>—Add a few drops of ammonia or -kerosene to a pint of warm water; and wash the wind shield -with this solution and polish with a soft cloth or tissue paper.</p> - -<p><b>Sedan or Closed Body Cleaning.</b>—Follow directions given -for cleaning upholstering and windshields.</p> - -<p><b>Tire Rim Cleaning.</b>—Remove the tires twice each season. -Drive the dents out of the rims, rub off all rust with sand -paper, and file off all sharp edges and paint the rims with -a metal filler. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before replacing -the tire. Rust on the rims causes rapid tire and tube -deterioration.</p> - -<p><b>Tire Cleaning.</b>—Rinse the mud and dirt off the tires, and -wash them with soap suds and a coarse sponge. Rinse with -clear water.</p> - -<p><b>Lens Cleaning.</b>—To clean the light lens follow the instructions -given above for cleaning windshields.</p> - -<p>Cover the car at night to prevent garage dust from settling<span class="pagenum" id="Page255">[255]</span> -into the pores of the paint. This type of dust causes the -varnish to check and take on a dull dirty appearance, and is -very hard to remove without the use of soap. Use a neutral -soap and rinse thoroughly with clear cold water.</p> - -<p>A good serviceable throw-cover can be made from any kind -of cheap light goods, or by sewing several old sheets together.</p> - -<p><b>Caution.</b>—Do not dust the car immediately after driving it -in the sun and never use a feather duster as this only pads -the dust into the varnish, and scratches it.</p> - -<p>A good dusting cloth is made by dampening a soft cloth -with an oil polish. The cloth should be left to dry in the sun -for several hours after being dampened with oil.</p> - -<p>Rinsing the body off with clear cold water and drying it -with a chamois skin is always preferable as it produces a -clean appearance and freshens the paint.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page256">[256]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XLII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">TIRES, BUILD, QUALITY, AND CARE</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Building a tire is like building a house or laying a cement -sidewalk; the foundation must be right or the job will not -stand up.</p> - -<p>The foundation of a tire as every motorist knows consists -of alternative layers of rubber, fabric, or cord, covered with -a tread and breaker strip of rubber. The tread and breaker -strip, however, are not worth the space they occupy if they -are placed over a poorly constructed foundation of cheaply -made fabric. Therefore, great care should be exercised in -choosing a tire of standard make which has been tested, inspected, -and guaranteed to be in perfect condition, and gives -a mileage guarantee.</p> - -<p>The cheaper grades of tires may be very deceiving in looks, -but the point remains, that beneath the tread and breaker -strip there must be something that is cheaper in quality than -the material used in building a standard tire or it could -not be sold for less, as tire building material sells at a market -price obtainable to all; and the standard tire is usually produced -in large quantities at a small profit, which may be seen -by comparing the production records and the dividends paid -on capitalization.</p> - -<p>This point alone shows the wise economy in purchasing tires -of standard build and avoiding all so-called low priced tires -as they usually cost the motorist considerable more before the -average mileage of a good tire is obtained.</p> - -<p>Tires given close attention will usually give from one to two -thousand more miles of service than those that do not receive -prompt attention. Therefore, close inspection should be -made frequently for cuts, rents, stone bruises, or a break in<span class="pagenum" id="Page257">[257]</span> -the tread which exposes the underlying fabric to wear and -dampness.</p> - -<p>When a break is discovered in either the tread or breaker -strip, it should be slightly enlarged and well cleaned. A coat -of raw rubber cement is applied and allowed to dry. Another -coat of cement is applied, and when this coat is fairly -dry, fill the indenture with raw rubber gum and cook for -thirty minutes with a small vulcanizer. The cement, rubber, -and vulcanizer may be purchased at any accessory store for -a couple of dollars.</p> - -<p><b>Tire Care.</b>—Always keep the garage floor clean and free -from oil, grease and gasoline, in order that the tires may not -come in contact with it or stand in it. All three are deadly -enemies to rubber. This is easily accomplished by spreading a -thin layer of sawdust or bran on the floor and dampening it. -This not only makes floor cleaning easy but also keeps the air -moist and causes the dust to settle quickly.</p> - -<p>When a tire comes in contact with either grease, oil, or -gasoline, it should immediately be washed with warm water -and castile soap.</p> - -<p>Mud must not be allowed to dry and bake on the tires as it -causes the rubber to loose its springy elastic qualities, and -dry-rot or rubber scurvy takes place immediately, and the -tread begins to crack and crumble.</p> - -<p><b>Tire Chains.</b>—Use tire chains only when they are absolutely -necessary to overcome road conditions, as the use of chains -under the most ideal conditions results in a certain amount -of damage to the tires, and also causes destruction to improved -roads. Chains are easily put on by stretching them out at -the rear of the car and rolling the car on them. The clamps -should be placed forward in order that the contact with the -road may serve to keep them closed.</p> - -<p>Adjust the chains to the tire loosely in order that the cross -chains may work around and distribute the wear evenly.</p> - -<p><b>Cross Chains.</b>—Inspect the cross chains occasionally for -wear and sharp edges.</p> - -<p>Do not use springs across the front of the wheel to hold<span class="pagenum" id="Page258">[258]</span> -the chains, as they prevent the cross chains from working -around on the tire and the opposite side chain is often drawn -onto the tread, and as these chains are not continuous, the -link connections wear and cut the tread exposing the underlying -layers of fabric to dampness and wear.</p> - -<p><b>Tube Care.</b>—When an extra tube is carried with the car -shake some tire talc or soap stone on it and wrap with tissue -paper. It can then be carried in a small box with the tools -without being damaged from vibration.</p> - -<p><b>Tube Repairing.</b>—A tube should always be vulcanized to -make the repair permanent; but in case you must make a -road repair and have not a vulcanizer with you, an emergency -repair can be made by sticking on a patch. The surface -of the tube and the patch is cleaned and roughened with a -fine file or piece of emery paper. A coat of cement is applied -next and allowed to dry. Another coat of cement is applied -and allowed to dry until it becomes tacky. The patch is then -pressed on the tube and held under pressure fifteen or twenty -minutes until the cement is dry. This repair will serve for -a short time but should be made permanent at the first opportunity.</p> - -<p><b>Tire Storage.</b>—When the car is to be stored for the winter, -the tires should be left on the wheels and deflated to thirty -pounds pressure (that is, after they have been relieved of the -weight of the car), except in cases where the garage is cold -and very damp and subjected to weather changes. In this -case remove the tires and hang them up in a cool dry place -(store room or cellar).</p> - -<p>Always remove the old valve cores from the valve stems -and replace them with new ones before putting the tires back -into service, as the rubber plungers deteriorate very rapidly -when inactive. Valve cores can be purchased at any service -station in a small tin container for thirty-five to fifty cents -per dozen.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page259">[259]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XLIII</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">ELECTRICAL SYSTEM</span><br> -<span class="thirdline smcap">Tuning Hints</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>The average car owner usually fights shy of the electrical -system. This deserves attention when overhauling the car, -as well as any other part of the car, and a few simple precautions -will go a long way toward eliminating electrical -troubles.</p> - -<p>The entire electrical system should be gone over. One of -the most important things demanding inspection is the wiring. -It often happens that the insulation becomes chafed or worn, -through contact with other parts of the car. It is, therefore, -important to look over the wiring very carefully. Where -there is any doubt as to the insulation being insufficient, new -wires should be used. This eliminates the possibility of there -being an accidental ground, or short circuit, rendering a part -or the entire system inoperative.</p> - -<p>All terminals should be gone over to determine whether -they are clean and tight. This is especially true of the terminals -on the storage battery, and at the point where the -battery is grounded to the frame of the car if it is a single -wire system.</p> - -<p>The connections between the storage battery and the starting -motor should be clean and free from corrosion. If these -connections are not tight and clean, improper performance -of the starting motor is the result.</p> - -<p>Apply a small amount of vaseline to the battery terminals -for protection of the metal from the action of the acid fumes -and prevention of corrosion. It is well to have the battery -inspected by a battery specialist and any necessary repairs -taken care of.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page260">[260]</span></p> - -<p>Distributor and relay points should be examined to see if -they are pitted or burned. If they are, they should be -smoothed down with a fine platinum file and adjusted to the -proper gap. It is essential that the contact points meet -squarely. If this is not done burning and pitting will result.</p> - -<p>The generator and starting motor commutator should be examined -for undue wear and high mica. It may be necessary -in order to insure good performance that the commutator -be turned down in a lathe and the mica undercut.</p> - -<p>The brushes should be properly seated by careful sanding. -This is especially necessary when the commutator is turned -down. It is desirable to have three-quarters of the brush -face bearing on the commutator. This can be determined by -examination of the glazed area on the brush after running -a short time.</p> - -<p>Should the starter drive be of the bendix type, the threaded -shaft and pinion should be cleaned, and any grease which has -hardened should be removed.</p> - -<p>Lamps should be examined. Dim and burned out lamps -should be replaced.</p> - -<p>All connections of the lighting and ignition switch should -be inspected. It should be noted whether the terminals are -touching, or nearly touching. If any wires are rubbing thus, -entailing the possibility of a short circuit or ground, they -should be fixed.</p> - -<p>Electric cables that rub on sharp edges of the battery box -will soon wear through the insulation from vibration of the -car and a short circuit will occur that may be hard to find. -Such parts of the wire should be well protected with adhesive -tape and should be also frequently inspected.</p> - -<p>High tension currents are very hard to control, and a short -or leakage often occurs where the wire is cramped. The -center wire works or wears through the rubber insulation -causing the current to jump to the nearest metal part. This -kind of trouble is especially hard to locate as the outer surface -of the braided insulation does not show the break.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page261">[261]</span></p> - -<p>It is a good plan to examine the wiring for short circuits -occasionally in this manner. When putting the car in at -night, close the garage door and turn out the lights, running -the motor at various speeds and gently moving each wire. -If there are any short or grounded circuits a brilliant spark -will jump at the defective point.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page262">[262]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XLIV</span><br> -<span class="chaptitle">AUTOMOBILE PAINTING</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>Painting a car requires a great amount of patience. But -a fairly good job may be done by the average amateur -painter, providing the work is done carefully and exactly. -However, this work should be undertaken only in a warm, -dry room where it is possible to keep an even temperature.</p> - -<p>The old paint is first removed with a paint remover, or -solution which is applied to the surface and allowed to penetrate -into the pores. Another coat is then applied. The surface -is then scraped with a putty knife until it is smooth -and free from the old paint. In some cases it may be found -necessary to use a blow torch to soften the old paint.</p> - -<p>After the old paint has been thoroughly removed, the rough -spots should be smoothed over with a piece of sand or emery -paper, and all counter sunk screw heads, joinings, and -scratches filled with putty, to make an even surface. The -metal primer is applied and allowed to dry. A second coat -consisting of equal parts of white lead, turpentine and boiled -oil is next applied and allowed to dry. Three or four coats -of color are applied next and allowed to dry. Colors come -in a paste form, and may be turned into a paste by adding -a little turpentine. Two coats of color and an equal amount -of rubbing varnish are next applied in turn and rubbed -with powdered pumice stone and water. The car is then -stripped and allowed to dry, and the job finished by applying -a coat of finishing varnish.</p> - -<p>All the foreign matter and grease is removed from the running -gear. The rough places are scraped and rubbed with a -piece of emery paper. Two coats of metal primer are applied -and allowed to dry. A coat of color varnish is applied which -completes the job.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page263">[263]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapnumber">CHAPTER XLV</span></h2> - -<h3>CARBON REMOVING</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p>It is necessary to remove the carbon deposits from the -combustion chambers and piston heads at frequent intervals -in order to maintain an economical and efficient motor.</p> - -<p>There are various methods and ways of doing this without -removing the casting or cylinder head; that is, providing -regular attention is given to prevent the deposit from baking -and forming in a shale which can be removed only by burning -or scraping.</p> - -<p>There are a number of carbon removing compounds on the -market which give excellent satisfaction, although some of -these compounds may prove very harmful unless the directions -are followed very carefully.</p> - -<p>A great many owners use kerosene once or twice a month. -An ounce or two may be poured into each cylinder while they -are quite warm and allowed to stand for several hours. The -motor is then turned over a few times which allows the kerosene -to escape through the valves. The particles of carbon -are blown out through the muffler when the motor is started. -Others prefer to feed it into the motor through the carburetor. -This is done by speeding up the motor and feeding -a little at a time into the float chamber or air valve. Others -use chloroform, turpentine, and alcohol in the same way.</p> - -<p>The latest method is to take the car to a garage and have -the carbon burnt out occasionally with a carbon dioxide flame. -This vaporizes and consumes the carbon and blows it out in -the form of soot. The flame of an acetylene welding outfit -may be used successfully. Great care must be taken to prevent -fire. The carburetor is removed and the fuel line drained -and tied out of range of the flame.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page264">[264]</span></p> - -<h3>TROUBLES</h3> - -<table class="troubles"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="3" class="w33pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<th class="br">TROUBLE</th> -<th class="br">CAUSE</th> -<th>REMEDY</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Worn piston rings</td> -<td>New oversize rings</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Pitted valve seats</td> -<td>Grind in valve seats</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Loose locknut, tappets</td> -<td>Adjust tappets</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Gas. mixture too heavy</td> -<td>Adjust carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Gas. mixture too thin</td> -<td>Adjust carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Contact points worn</td> -<td>Adjust points</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Loose cable connections</td> -<td>Connect to terminal posts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Cracked piston head</td> -<td>Replace piston</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Cracked water jacket</td> -<td>Weld, rebore cylinder</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Poor circulation</td> -<td>Flush out radiator</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Insufficient lubrication</td> -<td>Clean oiling system</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Excessive carbon deposit</td> -<td><i>See</i> chapter on <a href="#Page263">Carbon Removing</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Cracked piston ring</td> -<td>Replace rings</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Scored cylinder wall</td> -<td>Rebore cylinder</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Tight main bearings</td> -<td>Lubricate plentifully</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Heavy gas mixture</td> -<td>Adjust carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Cylinders missing</td> -<td><i>See</i> <a href="#Ref06">Motor Misses</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor heats</td> -<td class="br">Worn distributor contact spring</td> -<td>Replace spring on block</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor back-fires</td> -<td class="br">Lean mixture</td> -<td>Adjust carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor back-fires</td> -<td class="br">Valve open</td> -<td>Reseat valve, adj. tappet</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor back-fires</td> -<td class="br">Ignition off time</td> -<td><i>See</i> <a href="#Page114">ignition systems</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Lack of gasoline</td> -<td>Fill tank</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Vacuum in fuel tank</td> -<td>Open air hole in cap</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Lack of current</td> -<td>Close circuit</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Short circuit</td> -<td>Tape conductor at point</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Discharged battery</td> -<td>Test with hydrometer; have recharged</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Lack of fuel</td> -<td>Clean carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Lack of fuel</td> -<td>Clean screen at fuel entrance to vacuum system</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Lack of fuel</td> -<td>Clean pipe from vacuum system to carburetor</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Ignition fouled</td> -<td>Clean corrosion from terminals</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Breaker points stuck</td> -<td>Redress lightly with finger nail file</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Plugs improperly set</td> -<td>Close points to thickness of a dime</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Oil on points</td> -<td>Clean plugs and screw down tightly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Cracked porcelain</td> -<td>New plug</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Open valves</td> -<td>Grind or reset valves</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Valves stuck</td> -<td>Polish stems</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Weak valve springs</td> -<td>Replace springs</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor fails to start</td> -<td class="br">Open circuit</td> -<td>Close switch</td> -</tr> - -<tr id="Ref06"> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Defective spark plug</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Disconnected wires</td> -<td>Connect up tightly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td class="br">Dirty plugs</td> -<td>Clean</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="br">Motor misses</td> -<td rowspan="2" class="br">Poor compression</td> -<td>Replace gasket</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>New piston rings</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor vibrates</td> -<td class="br">Loose frame connection</td> -<td>Draw bolts down</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor vibrates<span class="pagenum" id="Page265">[265]</span></td> -<td class="br">Pistons sticking</td> -<td>Increase lubrication</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor vibrates</td> -<td class="br">Pistons weight uneven</td> -<td>Balance evenly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor vibrates</td> -<td class="br">Defective spark plug</td> -<td>Clean, replace plug</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor kicks</td> -<td class="br">Preignition</td> -<td>Time ignition system</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor kicks</td> -<td class="br">Carbon, combustion chamber</td> -<td>Scrape out, burn out</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor knock head</td> -<td class="br">Wrist pin bearing loose</td> -<td>Give pin <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> turn</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor knock head</td> -<td class="br">Loose connecting rod</td> -<td>Tighten upper bearing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor knock head</td> -<td class="br">Valve slap</td> -<td>Adjust tappet</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor knock base</td> -<td class="br">Connecting rod loose</td> -<td>Adjust remove shim</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor knock base</td> -<td class="br">Main bearing loose</td> -<td>Adjust remove shim</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor rumble</td> -<td class="br">Flywheel loose</td> -<td>Adjust reseat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor rumble</td> -<td class="br">Fan bearing loose</td> -<td>Adjust grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor tipping</td> -<td class="br">Fan blade strikes radiator</td> -<td>Adjust bend blade</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor tapping</td> -<td class="br">Tappet worn</td> -<td>Adjust tighten lock nut</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Thread stretch</td> -<td>Tighten head bolts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Gasket burned or blown</td> -<td>Replace, new gasket</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Valve seat pitted</td> -<td>Grind, reset valve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Valve guide worn</td> -<td>Replace bushing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Valve stem warped</td> -<td>New valve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Piston rings lined up</td> -<td>Distribute openings</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Motor compression poor</td> -<td class="br">Cylinder wall scored</td> -<td>Oversize rings; rebore</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Universal joint noise</td> -<td class="br">Loose sleeve connection</td> -<td>Tighten flange bolts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Universal joint noise</td> -<td class="br">Insufficient lubrication</td> -<td>Remove boot and pack with grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Universal joint slap</td> -<td class="br">Worn bushings</td> -<td>Turn bushings end for end</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Universal joint slap</td> -<td class="br">Worn trunion</td> -<td>New bushings</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential noise</td> -<td class="br">Dry</td> -<td>Fill with graphite grease or 600 W</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential click</td> -<td class="br">Chipped gear</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential knock</td> -<td class="br">Broken out tooth</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential growl (steady)</td> -<td class="br">Ring gear mesh too deep</td> -<td>Back up trifle on adjustment</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential growl (uneven)</td> -<td class="br">Ring gear mesh too loosely</td> -<td>Set up adjustment</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential growl (uneven)</td> -<td class="br">Axle shaft sprung</td> -<td>Retrue, replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Differential growl (uneven)</td> -<td class="br">Loose bearing retainer</td> -<td>Tighten nuts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to release</td> -<td class="br">Rusted clevis joints</td> -<td>Lubricate with heavy grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to release</td> -<td class="br">Broken coil spring</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to release</td> -<td class="br">Stretched coil spring</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake clatter</td> -<td class="br">Loose adjustment</td> -<td>Adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake clatter</td> -<td class="br">Worn lining</td> -<td>Reline the outer band</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake clatter</td> -<td class="br">Loose release spring</td> -<td>Adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake squeak</td> -<td class="br">Dry lining</td> -<td>Four or five drops of oil</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake squeak</td> -<td class="br">Burned lining</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to grip</td> -<td class="br">Lining worn down to rivet heads</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to grip</td> -<td class="br">Overly lubricated</td> -<td>Wash with kerosene</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to grip</td> -<td class="br">Lining worn slick</td> -<td>Wash with kerosene and roughen with file</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to grip<span class="pagenum" id="Page266">[266]</span></td> -<td class="br">Lining burned hard</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brakes fail to grip</td> -<td class="br">Stretched rivets</td> -<td>Draw down</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn clevis pin</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Spread clevis yoke</td> -<td>Drive ends together</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Loose lock-nut behind clevis</td> -<td>Tighten down</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Brake rods strike each other</td> -<td>Tape one rod at contact point</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Brake rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Dry connections</td> -<td>Lubricate with small lump of grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Torque rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Loose connections</td> -<td>Adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Torque rod rattle</td> -<td class="br">Loose coil spring</td> -<td>Adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Emergency brake lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Loose joint bearing</td> -<td>Replace bushing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Emergency brake lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn plunger spring</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Gear shift lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn ball socket</td> -<td>Lubricate with heavy grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Gear shift lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn ball</td> -<td>Dent in socket with punch</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Gear shift lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn alignment spring blades</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Gear shift lever rattle</td> -<td class="br">Worn bearing</td> -<td>Place thin washer at end of joint</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Steering wheel play</td> -<td class="br">Open mesh</td> -<td>Set up sector</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Steering wheel play</td> -<td class="br">Loose bearing</td> -<td>Turn down cone</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Steering wheel play</td> -<td class="br">Worn gear tooth</td> -<td>Take up on eccentric bushing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Steering wheel play</td> -<td class="br">Loose drag link sockets</td> -<td>Turn in end plug</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Steering wheel stiffness</td> -<td class="br">Dry</td> -<td>Pack with grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator heats</td> -<td class="br">Poor circulation</td> -<td>Flush radiator</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator heats</td> -<td class="br">Jammed tubes</td> -<td>Remove jam and solder in new piece tube</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator heats</td> -<td class="br">Sediment in bottom tank</td> -<td>Flush out with soda solution</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator heats</td> -<td class="br">Stopped up overflow</td> -<td>Run wire through</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator freezes</td> -<td class="br">Too much radiation</td> -<td>Cover bottom half of radiator with cardboard</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator freezes</td> -<td class="br">Jammed tubes</td> -<td>Cut out section; solder in new piece</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Radiator freezes</td> -<td class="br">Sediment in bottom tank</td> -<td>Flush out with soda solution</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank spouts gas</td> -<td class="br">Dirt on vacuum valve seat</td> -<td>Clean valve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank overflows</td> -<td class="br">Dirt on vacuum valve seat</td> -<td>Clean valve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank fails</td> -<td class="br">Suction pipe from manifold stopped up</td> -<td>Clean pipe</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank fails</td> -<td class="br">Vacuum valve stuck</td> -<td>Clean valve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank fails</td> -<td class="br">Entrance screen stopped up</td> -<td>Remove fuel line and clean screen</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank fails</td> -<td class="br">Loose connection at manifold</td> -<td>Tighten joint</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Vacuum tank fails</td> -<td class="br">Plugged fuel line</td> -<td>Run wire through</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor wheeze</td> -<td class="br">Choke valve out too far on dash</td> -<td>Push in after starting</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor wheeze</td> -<td class="br">Choke valve wire too short</td> -<td>Lengthen and adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor wheeze<span class="pagenum" id="Page267">[267]</span></td> -<td class="br">Butterfly loose on air valve pivot</td> -<td>Adjust and tighten</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor chokes</td> -<td class="br">Dirty valve</td> -<td>Grind needle valves</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor chokes</td> -<td class="br">Sediment in bowl</td> -<td>Clean out bowl</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor chokes</td> -<td class="br">Heavy mixture</td> -<td>Open air valve slightly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor chokes</td> -<td class="br">Water in gas</td> -<td>Clean out bowl</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor snaps</td> -<td class="br">Thin mixture</td> -<td>Cut down air</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor snaps</td> -<td class="br">Water in gas</td> -<td>Strain gas through chamois</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor snaps</td> -<td class="br">Dirt in fuel line</td> -<td>Run wire through</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor snaps</td> -<td class="br">Dirt under needle valve</td> -<td>Remove; clean seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor overflows</td> -<td class="br">Dirt on needle valve seat</td> -<td>Remove; clean seat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor overflows</td> -<td class="br">Cork float (water-logged)</td> -<td>Dry in sun and shellac</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor overflows</td> -<td class="br">Metal float punctured</td> -<td>Punch hole opposite leak, blow out, solder both</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor backfires</td> -<td class="br">Worn intake valve bushing</td> -<td>Replace bushing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor backfires</td> -<td class="br">Defective spark plug</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Carburetor backfires</td> -<td class="br">Pitted valve seat</td> -<td>Reseat</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto roar</td> -<td class="br">Armature shaft bearings dry</td> -<td>Two drops of light oil in bearing well</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto click</td> -<td class="br">Dry bearing</td> -<td>Two drops of light oil in bearing well</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Breaker points out of adjustment</td> -<td>Adjust points</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Open safety spark gap</td> -<td>Adjust gap to <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Condensor short circuited</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Distributor segments worn</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Distributor brush worn</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Distributor insulation cracked</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Magneto fires uneven</td> -<td class="br">Coil short circuited</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor arm wabbles</td> -<td class="br">Worn center bushing</td> -<td>Replace bushing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Spring blade broken in head</td> -<td>Replace blade</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Worn contact point in head</td> -<td>Cut down insulation</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Oil on contact block blade</td> -<td>Clean with kerosene</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Contact points welded</td> -<td>File smooth, adjust</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Loose on shaft</td> -<td>Reset and retime</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Coil shorted from dampness</td> -<td>Dry out thoroughly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Punctured condensor</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Secondary wire short circuited</td> -<td>Replace or tape</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Distributor fails</td> -<td class="br">Secondary wire disconnected in switch</td> -<td>Connect to proper terminal</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Corroded terminals</td> -<td>Clean and grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Brush loose</td> -<td>Tighten and adjust to even contact</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Terminal from battery short circuited to frame</td> -<td>Clean and tape</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Starting switch short circuited</td> -<td>Cut off end of wire, make new connection</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Bennidict spring broken</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Starting motor fails</td> -<td class="br">Battery discharged</td> -<td>Recharge battery</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Generator fails to charge</td> -<td class="br">Disconnected</td> -<td>Replace heavy wire<span class="pagenum" id="Page268">[268]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Generator fails to charge</td> -<td class="br">Short circuit in cut-out switch</td> -<td>Make new connection</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Generator fails to charge</td> -<td class="br">Brush out of contact</td> -<td>Adjust contact</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Generator noise</td> -<td class="br">Dry bearings</td> -<td>Lubricate with light oil</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery discharges too quickly</td> -<td class="br">Plate short circuited</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery discharges too quickly</td> -<td class="br">Leaky cell</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery discharges too quickly</td> -<td class="br">Weak solution</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery discharges too quickly</td> -<td class="br">Deteriorated plates</td> -<td>Take to service station</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery discharges too quickly</td> -<td class="br">Dry plates</td> -<td>Cover plates with distilled water</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery overcharges</td> -<td class="br">Insufficient use of current</td> -<td>Burn lights and use starter frequently</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Battery heats</td> -<td class="br">Overcharging</td> -<td>Burn lights and use starter frequently</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Horn fails</td> -<td class="br">Wire short circuited</td> -<td>Replace or tape</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Horn fails</td> -<td class="br">Brush making poor contact</td> -<td>Adjust brush evenly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Horn fails</td> -<td class="br">Brush making heavy contact</td> -<td>Adjust brush lightly</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Horn fails</td> -<td class="br">Drum too tightly adjusted</td> -<td>Adjust through funnel</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Body loose on frame</td> -<td>Tighten four retainer bolts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Dry springs</td> -<td>Lubricate with graphite grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Fuel tank loose</td> -<td>Tighten bands</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Radiator loose</td> -<td>Tighten studs</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Drip pan loose</td> -<td>Compress coil springs</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Fender irons loose</td> -<td>Tighten bolts</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Squeaks</td> -<td class="br">Upper steering shaft bearing dry</td> -<td>Pack with heavy grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Rattles</td> -<td class="br">Loose spring alignment clamp</td> -<td>Bush and tighten</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Rattles</td> -<td class="br">Spread rod clevis open</td> -<td>Draw up ends and grease</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Rattles</td> -<td class="br">Demountable rim lugs loose</td> -<td>Draw up or replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Rattles</td> -<td class="br">Door hinge screws loose</td> -<td>Draw up</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Rattles</td> -<td class="br">Door lock worn</td> -<td>Bush slot</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Lights jar out</td> -<td class="br">Wires short circuited</td> -<td>Tape worn insulation</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Lights jar out</td> -<td class="br">Weak plunger spring in contact plug</td> -<td>Stretch spring</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Lights fail</td> -<td class="br">Poor contact</td> -<td>Remove wire and tape insulation</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Lights fail</td> -<td class="br">Poor contact</td> -<td>Remove plugs and adjust firmly in sockets</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="br">Lights dim</td> -<td class="br">Globes carboned</td> -<td>Replace</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td class="br">Lights burn with black spot in center</td> -<td class="br">Globe out of adjustment</td> -<td>Turn back into socket firmly</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page269">[269]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">APPENDIX</h2> - -</div> - - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h3 class="nobreak">I<br> -FORD—MODEL-T<br> -THE CAR, ITS OPERATION, AND CARE</h3> - -<p class="center fsize90">Given in Questions and Answers—This Supplement also -Covers the 1-Ton Truck</p> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="blankbefore75"><i>Q.</i> What should be done before starting the car?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Before trying to start the car fill the radiator (by removing -the cap at the top) with clean fresh water. If perfectly -clean water cannot be obtained, it is advisable to -strain it through muslin or other similar material to prevent -foreign matter from getting in and obstructing the small -tubes of the radiator. The system will hold approximately -three gallons of water. It is important that the car should -not be run under its own power unless the water circulating -system has been filled. Pour in the water until you are sure -that both radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. The -water will run out of the overflow pipe onto the ground -when the entire water system has been properly filled. During -the first few days that a new car is being driven it is a -good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see that it -is kept well filled. The water supply should be replenished -as often as it is found necessary to do so. Soft rain water, -when it is to be had in a clean state, is superior to hard -water, which may contain alkalies and other salts which tend -to deposit sediment and clog the radiator.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about gasoline?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The ten gallon gasoline tank should be filled nearly -full and the supply should never be allowed to get low. -Strain the gas through chamois skin to prevent water and<span class="pagenum" id="Page270">[270]</span> -other foreign matter from getting into the tank. Dirt or -water in the gasoline is sure to cause trouble. When filling -the tank be sure that there are no naked flames within several -feet, as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels -rapidly. Always be careful about lighting matches near where -gasoline has been spilled, as the air within a radius of several -feet is permeated with the highly explosive vapor. The -small vent hole in the gasoline tank cap should not be allowed -to get plugged up, as this would prevent proper flow of -gasoline to the carburetor. The gasoline tank may be -drained by opening the pet cock in the sediment bulb at the -bottom of the tank.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How about the oiling system?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium -light high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case -through the breather pipe at the front of the engine (a metal -cap covers it). Down under the car in the flywheel casing -(the reservoir which holds the oil) you will find two pet -cocks. Pour oil in slowly until it runs out of the upper -cock. Leave the cock open until it stops running, then close -it. After the engine has become thoroughly warmed up, the -best results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level -midway between the two cocks, but under no circumstances -should it be allowed to get below the lower cock. All other -parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves the factory. -However, it will be well to see that all grease cups are filled -and that oil is supplied to the necessary parts. (See chapter -on <a href="#Page316">Lubrication</a>.)</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are spark and throttle levers used?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The -right hand (throttle) lever controls the amount of mixture -(gasoline and air) which goes into the engine. When the -engine is in operation, the farther the lever is moved downward -toward the driver (referred to as “opening the -throttle”) the faster the engine runs and the greater the -power furnished. The left hand lever controls the spark -which ignites the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page271">[271]</span> -advancing of this lever “advances the spark,” and it should -be moved down notch by notch until the motor seems to reach -its maximum speed. If the lever is advanced beyond this -point a dull knock will be heard in the engine. (See chapter -on <a href="#Page295">Ignition</a>.)</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Where should these levers be when the engine is ready -to crank?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The spark lever should usually be put in about the -third or fourth notch of the quadrant (the notched half -circle on which the levers operate). The throttle should -usually be opened five or six notches. A little experience -will soon teach you where these levers should be placed for -proper starting. Care should be taken not to advance the -spark lever too far as the engine may “back-kick.”</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What else is necessary before cranking the engine?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> First, see that the hand lever that comes up through -the floor of the car at the left of the driver, is pulled back -as far as it will go. The lever in this position holds the -clutch in neutral and engages the hub brake, thus preventing -the car from moving forward when the engine is started. -Second, after inserting the switch key in the switch on the -coil box, throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will -go, to the point marked “magneto.” This switch connects the -magneto to the engine. The engine cannot be started until -it is on; and the throwing off of the switch stops the engine. -The next step is to crank the engine.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the engine cranked?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> By the lifting of the starting crank at the front of -the car. Take hold of the handle and push it toward the -car until you feel the crank ratchets engage, then lift upward -with a quick swing. With a little experience this operation -will become an easy matter. Do not as a usual thing crank -downward against the compression, for then an early explosion -may drive the handle vigorously backward. This does -not mean, however, that it is advisable, when the car is hard -to start, to occasionally “spin” the engine with the starting -handle but be sure that the spark is retarded when spinning<span class="pagenum" id="Page272">[272]</span> -or cranking the engine against compression, otherwise -a sudden back-fire may injure the arm of the operator. When -the engine is cool it is advisable to prime the carburetor by -pulling on the small wire at the lower left-hand side of the -radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns -with the starting handle.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the engine best started in cold weather?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> As gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather, -it is naturally more difficult to start the motor under such -conditions. The usual method of starting the engine when -cold is to turn the carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter -turn to the left in order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline -to be drawn into the cylinders. Then hold out the -priming rod which projects through the radiator while you -turn the crank from six to eight quarter turns in quick succession. -Another method of starting a cold troublesome motor -is as follows: Before you throw on the magneto switch, (1) -close throttle lever. (2) Hold out the priming rod while -you crank several quick turns, then let go of the priming -rod, being careful that it goes back all the way. (3) Place -spark lever in about the third notch and advance throttle -lever several notches. (4) Throw on switch being sure to get -it on the side marked “magneto.” (5) Give crank one or -two turns and the motor should start. After starting the -motor it is advisable to advance the spark eight or ten notches -on the quadrant and let the motor run until it is thoroughly -warmed up.</p> - -<p>If you start out with a cold motor you will not have much -power and are liable to “stall.” The advantage of turning -on the switch last, or after priming, is that when you throw -on the switch and give the crank one-quarter turn you have -plenty of gas in the cylinders to keep the motor running, -thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting and -stopping. After motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment -back one-quarter turn.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i> Many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine -by walking around in front of the car and pulling out<span class="pagenum" id="Page273">[273]</span> -on the priming rod which has the effect of shutting off the -air suction and filling the cylinders full of a very rich gasoline -vapor. This should not be done unless the car is going -to stand over night or long enough to cool off. If the motor -is stopped in this way and then started when hot, starting is -apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the -carburetor.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How do the foot pedals operate?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The first one toward the left operates the clutch, and -by it the car is started and its operations largely controlled. -When pressed forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed -gear. When halfway forward the gears are in neutral (i. e., -disconnected from the driving mechanism of the rear wheels), -and, with the hand lever thrown forward the releasing of the -pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The right hand pedal -operates the transmission brake.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What function does the hand lever perform?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. -If it were not for this lever the driver would have to -stop the engine whenever he left the driver’s seat. He would -also be unable to crank the engine without the car starting -forward with the first explosion. When pulled back as far -as it will go, the hand lever acts as an emergency lever on the -rear wheels, by expanding the brake shoes in the rear wheel -drums. Therefore the hand lever should be back as far as -it will go when cranking the engine or when the car is at -rest. It should be only in a vertical position, and not far -enough backward to act as a brake on the rear wheels when -the car is to be reversed. When the car is operating in -high or low speed the hand lever should be all the way forward.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the car started?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. -Place the foot on the clutch pedal, and thereby hold the -gears in a neutral position while throwing the hand lever -forward. Then to start the car in motion, press the pedal -forward into low speed and when under sufficient headway<span class="pagenum" id="Page274">[274]</span> -(20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop back slowly into high -speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle which -will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a little -practice the change of speeds will be easily accomplished, and -without any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the -machine.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the car stopped?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Partially close the throttle. Release the high speed by -pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral. Apply the -foot brake slowly but firmly until the car comes to a dead -stop. Do not remove the foot from the clutch pedal without -first pulling the hand lever back to neutral position, or -the engine will stall. To stop the motor, open the throttle -a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the switch. -The engine will then stop with the cylinders full of gas, which -will naturally facilitate starting.</p> - -<p>Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of -the car that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes -practically automatic, the natural thing to do in case of -emergency.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the car reversed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine -running, disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press -the reverse pedal forward with the left foot, the right foot -being free to use on the brake pedal if needed. Do not bring -the hand lever back too far or you will set the brakes on the -rear wheels. Experienced drivers ordinarily reverse the car -by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the left -foot, and operating the reverse pedal with the right.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the spark controlled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> By the left hand lever under the steering wheel. Good -operators drive with the spark lever advanced just as far -as the engine will permit. But if the spark is advanced too -far a dull knock will be heard in the motor, due to the fact -that the explosion occurs before the piston in the engine has -completed its compression stroke. The best results are obtained -when the spark occurs just at the time that piston<span class="pagenum" id="Page275">[275]</span> -reaches its highest point of travel, the gas being then at its -highest point of compression. The spark should only be retarded -when the engine slows down on a heavy road or steep -grade, but care should be exercised not to retard the spark too -far, for when the spark is “late” instead of getting a powerful -explosion, a slow burning of gas with excessive heat will -result. Learn to operate the spark as the occasion demands. -The greatest economy in gasoline consumption is obtained by -driving with the spark advanced sufficiently to obtain the -maximum speed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is speed of car controlled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The different speeds required to meet road conditions -are obtained by opening or closing the throttle. Practically -all the running speeds needed for ordinary travel are -obtained on high gear, and it is seldom necessary to use the -low gear except to give the car momentum in starting. The -speed of the car may be temporarily slackened in driving -through crowded traffic, turning corners, etc., by “slipping -the clutch,” i. e., pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Is it advisable for owners to make their own adjustments?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the -ordinary adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for -himself. But we must strongly recommend that when it becomes -necessary to employ the services of a mechanic, the -car be taken to a Ford mechanic—one of our own representatives -who thoroughly understands the car—and who will -have no motive for running up useless repair bills. The entire -Ford organization is interested in keeping every individual -Ford car in constant operation, at the lowest possible -cost. We have known of much damage done to many cars by -unskilled repair men.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What attention does the car need?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention -during the first few days it is being driven than after -the parts have become thoroughly “worked in.” The car<span class="pagenum" id="Page276">[276]</span> -which is driven slowly and carefully when new usually gives -the most satisfactory service in the end. Never start out with -your car until you are sure that it has plenty of oil and -water. Frequently inspect the running gear. See that no unnecessary -play exists in either front or rear wheels, and that -all bolts and nuts are tight. Make a practice of taking care -of every repair or adjustment as soon as its necessity is discovered. -This attention requires but little time and may -avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We aim to deliver -the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards -it is plainly the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page277">[277]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">II<br> -THE FORD ENGINE</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q</i>. What is the principle of the gasoline driven engine?</p> - -<p><i>A</i>. Gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly -explosive. An explosion is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous -combustion of confined gases. In the gasoline -engine the mixture is drawn into the cylinder, where it is compressed -by an advancing piston and then exploded by an -electric spark, which sends the piston violently downward, -and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary motion to the -crank shaft. (See <a href="#Fig147">cut No. 147</a>.)</p> - -<p><i>Q</i>. What are functions of the pistons?</p> - -<p><i>A</i>. On the downward stroke the suction of the piston -draws the fresh gas from the carburetor, through the inlet -pipe and valve, into the cylinder. The upward movement of -the piston compresses the gas into a very small space, between -the top of the piston and the depression in the cylinder -head, known as the “combustion chamber.” (The compressed -gases inert a pressure of approximately 60 pounds to the -square inch.) At this point the electric spark, generated by -the magneto, explodes the gas-driving piston downward, thus -producing the power which turns the crank shaft. On the -next stroke upward the piston drives the exploded gas out -through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler. The accompanying -cut shows clearly the relative positions of the -pistons and valves during the different strokes.</p> - -<p><i>Q</i>. How is the connecting rod removed?</p> - -<p><i>A</i>. It is a vanadium steel rod connecting piston and crank -shaft. Should the babbitt bearing become worn, or burned -out through lack of oil, a knocking in the engine will result, -in which case the entire connecting rod should be replaced. -To make this replacement, (1) drain oil from crank case; (2) -take off cylinder head; (3) remove detachable plate on bottom -of crank case; (4) disconnect connecting rod from crank -shaft; (5) take piston and rod out through top of cylinder.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page278">[278]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig147"> - -<img src="images/illo300.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w14pc"> -<col class="w16pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w14pc"> -<col class="w16pc"> -<col class="w04pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col class="w14pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left bot">Exhaust Valve</td> -<td class="right bot">Spark Plug</td> -<td class="center">Exhaust and Intake<br> -Pipe Clamp</td> -<td class="center">Cylinder<br> -Head Bolt</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left bot">Top Water Connection</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Intake Valve</span></td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="6"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Water Chamber</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Comp. Chamber</span></td> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left bot"><span class="padl2">Reverse Pedal</span></td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Piston Ring</span></td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="right">Cylinder<br> -Head</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left bot">Fan</td> -<td class="left bot">Crank Handle</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Clutch Pedal</span></td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Piston</span></td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" class="right">Exhaust<br> -Manifold</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Grease Cup</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Brake Pedal</span></td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Magneto Contact</span></td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Fan Bracket</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" class="left"><span class="padl2">Transmission Cover</span></td> -<td rowspan="2" class="left"><span class="padl6">Magneto</span><br> -<span class="padl4">Contact Point</span></td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" class="right top">Intake Pipe</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Fan Bracket Bolt</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Bracket Pipe</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Triple Gear</span></td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Fan Belt</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Adjusting Nut</span></td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Large Time Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Reverse Band</span></td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Commutator</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl1">Slow Speed Band</span></td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Com. Wire Terminal</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl1">Brake Band</span></td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Starting Pin</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Driving Plate</td> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Drive Pulley</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td class="left">Starting Crank</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7"> </td> -<td class="left">Starting Crank Spring</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="5"> </td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="left">Cam Shaft<br> -Front Bearing</td> -<td class="left">Starting Crank Sleeve</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Starting Crank Ratchet</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl1">Clutch Spring</span></td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl1">Push Rod</span></td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Small Time Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Clutch Release Fork</td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Cam Shaft Rear Bearing</td> -<td class="left">Crank Case Oil Tube</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Crank Shaft Front Bearing</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Clutch Release Ring</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Magneto</td> -<td class="left">Crank Shaft Rear Bearing</td> -<td class="left">Crank Shaft Center Bearing</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Valve Spring</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Clutch Shift</span></td> -<td class="left">Magneto Support</td> -<td class="left">Magneto Coil Support</td> -<td class="left">Crank Shaft</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Cam Shaft</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Clutch Finger</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Magneto Clamp</td> -<td class="left">Magneto Coil</td> -<td class="left">Connecting Rod</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Oil Level</td> -<td rowspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Flywheel</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right">Oil Cocks</td> -<td class="left">Oil Drain Plug</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 147. Ford Motor—Sectional View</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page279">[279]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the valve arrangement?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> One intake and one exhaust valve are located in each -cylinder. The former admits the fresh gas drawn from the -carburetor through the inlet pipe, the latter permits the exploded -gas to be driven out through the exhaust pipe. The -valves are alternately opened and closed (see <a href="#Fig148">Fig. 148</a>) by -the cams on the cam shaft striking against push rods which in -turn lift the valves from their seats.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig148"> - -<img src="images/illo301.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w60emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col class="w24pc"> -<col class="w30pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col class="w10pc"> -<col class="w20pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Intake Stroke<br> -Exhaust Valve Closed<br> -Intake Valve Open</td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Exhaust Valve Closed<br> -Intake Valve Closed<br> -Explosion Stroke</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">Compression Stroke<br> -Intake Valve Closed<br> -Exhaust Valve Closed</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Intake Valve Closed<br> -Exhaust Valve Open<br> -Exhaust Stroke</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="5" colspan="5"> </td> -<td class="left">Push Rod</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Large Time Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Comm. Brush Assb.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Zero Marks on Time Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Small Time Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="right">Crank Shaft</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Cam Shaft</span></td> -<td colspan="3" class="left"><span class="padl4">Exhaust Cam</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Connecting Rod</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left"><span class="padl4">Intake Cam</span></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 148. Ford Motor—Valve and Cylinder Assembly</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about valve timing?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> In timing the engine the points of opening and closing -of the valves are, of course, what should be considered. As -the valves are properly timed at the factory when the engine -is built, the necessity for retiming would occur only when -such parts as the cam shaft, time gears, or valves were removed -in overhauling the engine. In fitting the large time -gear to the cam shaft it is important to see that the first -cam points in a direction opposite to the zero mark (see <span class="pagenum" id="Page280">[280]</span> -<a href="#Fig148">Fig. 148</a>). The time gears must also mesh so that the tooth marked -(0) on the small time gear will come between the two teeth -on the large gear at the zero point. The time gears now being -properly set, the exhaust valve on No. 1 cylinder is open -and the intake valve closed, the other valves being in the -position indicated in <a href="#Fig148">cut No. 148</a>. The opening and closing of -the valves are as follows: The exhaust valve opens when the -piston reaches <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ of bottom center, the distance from the -top of the piston head to the top of the cylinder casting -measuring 3<sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″. The exhaust valve will close on top center, -the piston being <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ above the cylinder casting. The intake -valve opens <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ after the top center and closes <sup>9</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ after -bottom center, the distance from the top of the piston to the -top of the cylinder casting measuring 3<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>″ The clearance between -the push rod and the valve stem should never be greater -than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub>″ nor less than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>64</sub>″. The correct clearance is -naturally halfway between these two measurements. The gap -should be measured when the push rod is on the heel of the -cam.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about the care of the valves?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> They seldom get out of order, but they do get dirty as -a result of carbon collecting on the valve seats. These carbon -deposits, by preventing proper closing of the valves, permit -the gases under compression to escape, resulting in loss of -power and uneven running of the motor. If, when turning -the engine over slowly, there is lack of resistance in one or -more cylinders, it is probable that the valves need regrinding. -As the “life” of the engine depends largely upon the proper -seating of the valves, it is necessary that they be ground occasionally.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are valves removed for grinding?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> (1) Draining radiator; (2) remove cylinder head; (3) -remove the two valve covers on the right side of the engine; -(4) raise the valve spring with lifting tool and pull out the -little pin under the valve seat. The valve may then be lifted -out by the head, preparatory to grinding.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are valves ground?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page281">[281]</span></p> - -<p><i>A.</i> For this work use a good grinding paste of ground -glass and oil procurable from auto supply houses. A convenient -way is to put a small amount in a suitable dish, adding -a spoonful or two of kerosene and a few drops of lubricating -oil to make a thin paste. Place the mixture sparingly -on the bevel face of the valve. Put the valve in position -on the valve seat, and rotate it back and forth (about a -quarter turn) a few times with a Ford grinding tool. Then -lift slightly from the seat, change the position and continue -the rotation, and keep on repeating this operation until the -bearing surface is bright and smooth. The valve should not -be turned through a complete rotation, as this is apt to cause -scratches running around the entire circumference of the -valve and seat. When the grinding is completed the valve -should be removed from the cylinder, thoroughly washed with -kerosene, and the valve seat wiped out thoroughly. Extreme -care should be taken that no abrasive substance gets into the -cylinders or valve guides. This can be avoided if the grinding -paste is applied sparingly on the bevel face of the valve. -If the valve seat is worn badly or smeared, it is best to have it -reseated with a valve seating tool. This operation requires -considerable skill, and perhaps had better be done by an expert -mechanic. Care should be exercised against making too -deep a cut, necessitating the retiming of the valve.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What should be done when the valves and push rods -are worn?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> When the valves and push rods become worn so as to -leave too much play between them, thus reducing the lift of -the valves and diminishing the power of the motor, it is best -to replace the push rods with new ones. The clearance between -the push rod and the valve stem should never be greater -than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub>″ nor less than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>64</sub>″. If the clearance is greater, -the valve will open late and close early, resulting in uneven -running of the motor. If the clearance is less than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>64</sub>″ -there is danger of the valve remaining partially open all the -time. If replacing the push rod does not give the proper -clearance, the valve should also be replaced. We do not<span class="pagenum" id="Page282">[282]</span> -recommend drawing out the valve stem, as the operation required, -and the price of a new part does not warrant the time -and expense necessary to properly do the work.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about valve springs?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> When the valves fail to seat themselves properly, there -is a possibility that the springs may be weak or broken. A -weak inlet spring would probably not affect the running of the -engine, but weakness in the exhaust valve spring causes a -very uneven action, which is difficult to locate. The symptoms -are a lag in the engine due to the exhaust valve not closing -instantaneously, and as a result a certain per cent. of the -charge under compression escapes, greatly diminishing the -force of the explosion. Weakness in a valve spring can -usually be detected by the following method: Remove the -plate which encloses them at the side of the cylinder and -insert a screw driver between the coils of the spring while -the engine is running. If the extra tension thus produced -causes the engine to pick up speed, the spring is obviously -weak and should be replaced by a new one.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What causes “knocking” in the engine?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> There are several causes which may be enumerated as -follows: (1) carbon knock, which is by far the most common, -resulting from carbonizing of cylinders; (2) knock caused by -a too advanced spark; (3) connecting rod knock; (4) crank -shaft main bearing knock; (5) knock due to loose fitting piston -or broken ring; (6) knock caused by piston striking the -cylinder head gasket. When the engine knocks from any -cause whatsoever, the matter should be promptly investigated -by an experienced mechanic and the difficulty corrected.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How may the different knocks be distinguished?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> (1) The carbon knock is a clear hollow sound most -noticeable in climbing sharp grades, particularly when the engine -is heated. It is also indicated by a sharp rap immediately -on advancing the throttle. (2) Too advanced spark will be indicated -by a dull knock in the motor. (3) The connecting -rod knock sound is like the distant tapping of steel with a -small hammer, and is readily distinguished when the car is<span class="pagenum" id="Page283">[283]</span> -allowed to run idly down grade or upon speeding the car -to twenty-five miles an hour, then suddenly closing the throttle, -the tapping will be very distinct. (4) The crank shaft main -bearing knock can be distinguished as a dull thud when the -car is going up hill. (5) The loose piston knock is heard -only upon suddenly opening the throttle, when the sound -produced might be likened to a rattle. The remedies for these -knocks are treated under their proper divisions.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is carbon removed from the combustion chamber?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> First, drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the -bottom of the radiator; then disconnect the wires at the top -of the motor and also the radiator connection attached to the -radiator. Remove the 15 cap screws which hold the cylinder -head in place. Take off the cylinder head and, with a putty -knife or screw driver, scrape from the cylinder and piston -heads the carbonized matter, being careful to prevent the -specks of carbon from getting into the cylinders or bolt -holes. In replacing the cylinder head gasket turn the motor -over so that No. 1 and No. 4 pistons are at top center; place -the gasket in position over the pistons and then put the cylinder -head in place. Be sure and draw the cylinder head -bolts down evenly (i. e., give each bolt a few turns at a time). -Do not tighten them on one end before drawing them up at the -other.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are spark plugs cleaned?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> After removing the plug from the engine the points -may be cleaned with an old tooth brush dipped in gasoline. -However, to do the work thoroughly, the plug should be taken -apart by securing the large hexagon steel shell in a vise and -loosening the pack nut which holds the porcelain in place. -The carbon deposits can then be easily removed from the -porcelain and shell with a small knife. Care should be exercised -not to scrape off the glazed surface of the porcelain, -otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly. The porcelain -and other parts should be finally washed in gasoline and -wiped dry with a cloth.</p> - -<p>In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page284">[284]</span> -pack nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain, -and the distance between the sparking points should be -<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub>″, about the thickness of a smooth dime. Dirty plugs -usually result from an excess of oil being carried in the -crank case, or from using oil of poor quality.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the power plant removed from the car?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> (1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect -the radiator hose. (2) Disconnect the radiator stay rod which -holds it to the dash. (3) Take out the two bolts which fasten -the radiator to the frame and take radiator off. (4) Disconnect -the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the -frame. (5) Loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the -frame, when the dash and steering gear may be removed as -one assembly, the wires first having been disconnected. (6) -Take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket -underneath the crank case. (7) Remove the four bolts at -the universal joint. (8) Remove pans on either side of cylinder -casting and turn off gasoline; disconnect feed pipe from -carburetor. (9) Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust -pipe by uncovering large brass pack nut. (10) Take out the -two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame. -(11) Remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the -frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening -between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. -Through the rope pass a “2 by 4,” or stout iron pipe about -ten feet long, and let a man hold each end; let a third man -take hold of the starting crank handle, when the whole power -plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the connecting rod bearings adjusted?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking -out the engine, by the following method: (1) Drain off -the oil; (2) Remove plate on bottom of crank case, exposing -connecting rods; (3) Take off the first connecting rod cap, -and drawfile the ends a very little at a time; (4) Replace cap, -being careful to see that punch marks correspond, and tighten -bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) Test tightness of bearing<span class="pagenum" id="Page285">[285]</span> -by turning engine over with the starting handle. Experienced -mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly -fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a -hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the -other bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing -has been properly fitted and tested, then tighten the cap bolts -and the work is finished.</p> - -<p>Remember that there is a possibility of getting the bearings -too tight, and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to -cut out quickly, unless precaution is taken to run the motor -slowly at the start. It is a good plan after adjusting the -bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run -slowly for about two hours (keeping it well supplied with -water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever -possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford -mechanic.</p> - -<p>Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the -nearest agent or branch house for exchange at a price of 75 -cents each to cover the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable -for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting -of connecting rods or main bearings, for without a special -jig in which to form the bearings, satisfactory results will not -be obtained. The constant tapping of a loose connecting rod -on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of -the steel, resulting in broken crank shaft and possibly other -parts of the engine damaged.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the crank shaft main bearings adjusted?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft -revolves become worn (evidenced by a pounding in the motor) -and need replacing or adjustment, proceed as follows: (1) -After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank -case, transmission cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting -rods, transmission and magnetic coils. Take off the three babbitted -caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline. -Apply Persian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, -which will enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine -whether a perfect bearing surface is obtained.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page286">[286]</span></p> - -<p>(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much -as possible without stripping the bolt threads. When the -bearing has been properly fitted, the crank will permit moving -with one hand. If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one -hand, the contact between the bearing surface is evidently too -close, and the cap requires ohming up, one or two brass lines -usually being sufficient. In case the crank shaft moves too -easily with one hand, the shims should be removed and the -steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.</p> - -<p>(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or -red “spottings” indicate a full bearing the length of the cap. -If “spottings” do not show a true bearing, the babbitt should -be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained.</p> - -<p>(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the -center bearing in the same manner. Repeat the operation with -the front bearing, with the other two bearings laid aside.</p> - -<p>(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been -obtained, clean the babbitt surface carefully and place a -little lubricating oil on the bearings, also on the crank shaft; -then draw the caps up as closely as possible, the necessary -shims, of course, being in place. Do not be afraid of getting -the cap bolts too tight, as the shim under the cap and the oil -between the bearing surfaces will prevent the metal being -drawn into the close contact. If oil is not put on the bearing -surfaces, the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is -started up before the oil in the crank case can get into the -bearing. In replacing the crank case and transmission cover -on the motor, it is advisable to use a new set of felt gaskets -to prevent oil leaks.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page287">[287]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">III<br> -THE FORD COOLING SYSTEM</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the engine cooled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The heat generated by the constant explosions in the -engine would soon overheat and ruin the engine were it not -cooled by some artificial means. The Ford engine is cooled -by the circulation of water in jackets around the cylinders. -The heat is extracted from the water by its passage through -the thin metal tubing of the radiator, to which are attached -scientifically worked out fins, which assist in the rapid radiation -of the heat. The fan, just back of the radiator, sucks -the air around the tubing through which the air is also driven -by the forward movement of the car. The belt should be inspected -frequently and tightened by means of the adjusting -screw in the fan bracket when necessary. It should not be too -tight, however. Take up the slack till the fan starts to bind -when turned by hand.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the water circulate?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the -thermo-syphon system. It acts on the principle that hot -water seeks a higher level than cold water. Consequently -when the water reaches a certain heat, approximately 180 -degrees Fahrenheit, circulation commences and the water flows -from the lower radiator outlet pipe up through the water -jackets, into the upper radiator water tank, and down through -the tubes to the lower tank, to repeat the process.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What are the causes of overheating?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> (1) Carbonized cylinders; (2) too much driving on low -speed; (3) spark retarded too far; (4) poor ignition; (5) -not enough or poor grade oil; (6) racing motor; (7) clogged -muffler; (8) improper carburetor adjustment; (9) fan not<span class="pagenum" id="Page288">[288]</span> -working properly on account of broken or slipping belt; (10) -improper circulation of water due to clogged or jammed -radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What should be done when the radiator overheats?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Keep the radiator full. Do not get alarmed if it boils -occasionally, especially in driving through mud and deep sand -or up long hills in extremely warm weather. Remember -that the engine develops the greatest efficiency when the -water is heated nearly to the boiling point. But if there is -persistent overheating when the motor is working under ordinary -conditions, find the cause of the trouble and remedy -it. The chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving -or carbonized cylinders. Perhaps twisting the fan blades -at a greater angle to produce more suction may bring desired -results. By reference to the proper division of this book each -of the causes which contribute to an overheated radiator is -treated and remedies suggested. No trouble can result from -the filling of an overheated radiator with cold water, providing -the water system is not entirely empty, in which case the -motor should be allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How about cleaning the radiator?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The entire circulation system should be flushed out -occasionally. To do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet -hose should be disconnected, and the radiator flushed out -by allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary pressure, -from whence it will flow down through the tubes and -out at the drain cock and hose. The water jackets can be -flushed out in the same manner. Simply allow the water to -enter into the cylinder head connections and to flow through -the water jackets and out at the side inlet connection.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Will the radiator freeze in winter?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Yes; unless an anti-freezing solution is used in the -circulating system you are bound to experience trouble. As -the circulation does not commence until the water becomes -heated, it is apt to freeze at low temperature before it commences -to circulate. In case any of the radiator tubes happen<span class="pagenum" id="Page289">[289]</span> -to be plugged or jammed they are bound to freeze and -burst open if the driver undertakes to get along without using -a non-freezing solution. Wood or denatured alcohol can be -used to good advantage. The following table gives the freezing -points of solutions containing different percentages of -alcohol: 20% solution freezes at 15 degrees above zero. 30% -solution freezes at 8 degrees below zero. 50% solution freezes -at 34 degrees below zero. A solution composed of 60% -water, 10% glycerine and 30% alcohol is commonly used, its -freezing point being about 8 degrees below zero. On account -of evaporation fresh alcohol must be added frequently in order -to maintain the proper solution.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are leaks and jams in the radiator repaired?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> A small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying -brown soap or white lead, but the repair should be made permanent -with solder as soon as possible. A jammed radiator -tube is a more serious affair. While the stopping of one -tube does not seriously interfere with the circulation, it is -bound to cause trouble sooner or later, and the tube will freeze -in cold weather. Cut the tube an inch above and below the -jam and insert a new piece, soldering the connections. If the -entire radiator is badly jammed or broken it would probably -be advisable to install a new one.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page290">[290]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">IV<br> -THE GASOLINE SYSTEM</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the carburetor work?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The carburetor is of the automatic float feed type, having -but one adjustment, the gasoline needle valve. The cross-section -diagram of carburetor (<a href="#Fig149">Fig. 149</a>) shows how the -gasoline enters the carburetor, is vaporized by a current of -air and passes through the inlet pipe to the engine in the -form of an explosive mixture. The gasoline, entering the -bowl of the carburetor, gradually raises the float to a point -where the inlet needle is forced upwards into its seat, thus -cutting off the flow of gasoline. As the gasoline in the bowl -recedes, the float lowers, allowing the needle to drop from its -seat and the flow of gasoline is resumed. It is plain to see -that a constant level of gasoline is maintained in the carburetor -by the automatic action of float and needle. The -quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture is governed by -the needle valve (<i>see</i> <a href="#Ref07">following page</a>). The volume of gas -mixture entering the inlet pipe is controlled by opening and<span class="pagenum" id="Page291">[291]</span> -closing the throttle, according to the speed desired by the -driver.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig149"> - -<img src="images/illo312.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w60emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w30pc"> -<col class="w15pc"> -<col class="w40pc"> -<col class="w15pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl4">Gasoline Tank</span></td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left">Inlet Pipe</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Needle Valve</td> -<td class="left">Needle Valve<br> -Lock Screw</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Air Gate Lever</td> -<td class="left">Throttle Lever</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left">Clamp Screw</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Screen<br> -(Gasoline Strainer)</td> -<td class="left top">Air Current</td> -<td class="left">Throttle<br> -Stop Screw</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Air Intake Gate</td> -<td class="left">Throttle Gate</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Stop Cock</td> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="left">Cork Float</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left"><span class="padl4">Gasoline Inlet Needle</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Sediment Bulb</td> -<td class="left"><span class="padl2">Feed Pipe</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Carburetor<br> -Drain Cock</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="left">Sediment Bulb<br> -Drain Cock</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 149. Ford Fuel System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Why is carburetor adjustment placed on dash?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> For the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor. -After the new car has become thoroughly worked in, -the driver should observe the angle of the carburetor adjustment -rod at which the engine runs most satisfactorily. In cold -weather it will probably be found necessary to turn the dash adjustment -one-quarter turn to the left, particularly in starting -a cold engine. As gasoline vaporizes readily in warm weather, -the driver will find it economical to reduce the quantity of -gasoline in the mixture by turning the carburetor adjustment -to the right as far as possible without reducing the speed. -This is particularly true when taking long drives where conditions -permit a fair rate of speed to be maintained, and accounts -for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good -drivers.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is meant by a “lean” and a “rich” mixture?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> A lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline. -A rich mixture has too much gasoline and not enough -air. A rich mixture will not only quickly cover the cylinders, -pistons and valves with soot, but will tend to overheat the -cylinders, and is likewise wasteful of the fuel. It will often -choke the engine and cause misfiring at slow speeds, although -at high speeds the engine will run perfectly. The mixture -should be kept as lean as possible without the sacrifice of any -of the power of the motor. A lean mixture will often result -in backfiring through the carburetor, for the reason that the -gas burns slowly in the cylinder, and is still burning when the -inlet valve opens again, which causes the gas in the intake to -ignite. A rich mixture is shown by heavy, black exhaust -smoke with a disagreeable smell. Proper mixture will cause -very little smoke or odor.</p> - -<p id="Ref07"><i>Q.</i> How is the carburetor adjusted?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The usual method of regulating the carburetor is to -start the motor, advancing the throttle lever to about the sixth -notch, with the spark retarded to about the fourth notch. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page292">[292]</span> -flow of gasoline should now be cut off by screwing the needle -valve down to the right until the engine begins to misfire. -Then gradually increase the gasoline feed by opening the -needle valve until the motor picks up and reaches its highest -speed and no trace of black smoke comes from the exhaust. -Whenever it is necessary to turn the adjusting needle down -more than a quarter turn below its normal position, the lock -nut on the top of the carburetor at the point through which -the needle passes should first be loosened, as otherwise it is -impossible to tell when the needle is turned down in its seat -too far. Turning the needle down too tightly will result in -its becoming grooved and the seat enlarged. When those parts -are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of -the carburetor. Having determined the point where the motor -runs at its maximum speed, the needle valve lock nut should -be tightened to prevent the adjustment being disturbed. For -average running a lean mixture will give better results than a -rich one.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Why does water clog the carburetor?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline -tank, even in small amounts, will prevent easy starting and -the motor will misfire and stop. As water is heavier than -gasoline it settles to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment -bulb along with other foreign matters. As it is difficult -nowadays to get gasoline absolutely free from impurities, -especially water, it is advisable to frequently drain the sediment -bulb under the gasoline tank. During cold weather the -water which accumulates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze -and prevent the flow of gas through the pipe leading to the -carburetor. Should anything of this kind happen it is possible -to open the gasoline line by wrapping a cloth around the sediment -bulb and keeping it saturated with hot water for a short -time. Then the water should be drained off. In event of the -water getting down into the carburetor and freezing, the same -treatment may be applied.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What makes the carburetor leak?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through<span class="pagenum" id="Page293">[293]</span> -the feed pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle -raising and lowering in its seat. Should any particle of dirt -become lodged in the seat, which prevents the needle from -closing, the gasoline will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor -and leak out upon the ground.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What should be done when there is dirt in the carburetor?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very -small opening, a minute particle of dirt or other foreign matter -will clog up the orifice. The result is that the motor will -begin to misfire and slow down as soon as it has attained any -considerable speed. This is accounted for by the fact that -at high speeds the increased suction will draw the particles of -dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening the valve needle half -a turn and giving the throttle lever two or three quick pulls -the dirt or sediment will often be drawn through, when the -needle may be turned back to its original place. If this does -not accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be drained.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> If the engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded, -what is to be done?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded, -unscrew the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until -the engine idles at suitable speed. If the motor chokes or -stops when throttle is fully retarded, the adjusting screw -should be screwed until it strikes the boss, preventing the -throttle from closing too far. When proper adjustment has -been made, tighten lock screw so that adjustment will not be -disturbed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the purpose of the hot air pipe?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and -conducts it to the carburetor where the heat facilitates the -vaporizing of the gasoline. It is usually advisable to remove -this pipe in the hot season, but it is an absolutely necessary -feature during cold weather.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the purpose of the cork float?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It automatically controls the flow of gasoline into the -carburetor. If it floats too low, starting will be difficult; if<span class="pagenum" id="Page294">[294]</span> -too high, the carburetor will flood and leak. A cork float -which has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced -by a new one or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of -coats of shellac varnish to make it waterproof.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Should priming rod be used in cranking when motor is -warm?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> No. The carburetor does not ordinarily require priming -when the motor is warm, and cranking with the rod pulled -out is apt to “flood” the engine with an over rich mixture of -gas, which does not readily explode. This naturally causes -difficulty in starting. If you should accidentally flood the -engine, turn the carburetor adjusting needle down (to the -right) until it seats; then turn the engine over a few times -with the starting crank in order to exhaust the rich gas. As -soon as the motor starts, turn back the needle to the left and -readjust the carburetor.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page295">[295]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">V<br> -THE FORD IGNITION SYSTEM</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the purpose of the ignition system?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the -charge in the combustion chamber, thus producing the power -which runs the engine. It is important that the charge be -correctly ignited at the proper time, in order to obtain satisfactory -results in running the car. In the Ford car the -ignition system is as simple as it is possible for human invention -to make it.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the magneto generate the current?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, -the magnets on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools -create an alternating low tension electric current in coils of -wire which are wound around spools fastened to the stationary -part of the magneto, and is carried from these coils to the -magneto connection (wire) leading to the coil box on the -dash.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Should the coil vibrator adjustment be disturbed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when -it leaves the factory and this adjustment should not be disturbed -unless to install new points or to reduce the gap between -the points which may have increased from wear. When -adjustments are necessary they should, whenever possible, be -made by one of the Ford service stations who have special -equipment for testing and adjusting units and will gladly -furnish expert service. If the points are pitted they should be -filed flat with a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb -nut turned down so that with the spring held down the gap between -the points will be a trifle less than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub> of an inch. -Then set the lock nut so that the adjustment cannot be disturbed.<span class="pagenum" id="Page296">[296]</span> -Do not bend or hammer on the vibrators, as this -would affect the operation of the cushion spring of the vibrator -bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is a weak unit detected?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular -cylinder fails or seems to develop only a weak action, change -the position of the unit to determine if the fault is actually -in the unit. The first symptom of a defective unit is the -buzzing of the vibrator with no spark at the plug. Remember -that a loose wire connection, faulty spark plug, or worn commutator -may cause irregularity in the running of the motor. -These are points to be considered before laying the blame on -the coil.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How may short circuit in commutator wiring be detected?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Should the insulation of the primary wires (running -from coil to commutator) become worn to such an extent that -the copper wire is exposed, the current will leak out (i. e., -short circuit) whenever contact with the engine pan or other -metal parts is made. A steady buzzing of one of the coil -units will indicate a “short” in the wiring. When driving the -car the engine will suddenly lag and pound on account of -the premature explosion. Be careful not to crank the engine -downward against compression when the car is in this condition, -as the “short” is apt to cause a vigorous kick back.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Does coil adjustment affect starting?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted -more current is required to make and break the contact between -the points, and, as a result, at cranking speeds you -would not get a spark between the spark plug points. Do -not allow the contact points to become “ragged,” otherwise they -are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in starting, -and when running they are apt to produce an occasional -“miss” in the engine.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the purpose of the commutator?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at -which the spark plugs must fire. It affects the “make and<span class="pagenum" id="Page297">[297]</span> -break” in the primary circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto -allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the -metal roller in the commutator. Therefore, when the commutator -roller in revolving, touches the four commutator contact -points, to each of which is attached a wire connected with -the coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through the entire -system of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary, -however, as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly -and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches -the contact point connected with that unit. The commutator -should be kept clean and well oiled at all times.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about the spark plug?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> One is located at the top of each cylinder and can be -taken out easily with the spark plug wrench included with -every car, after the wire connection is removed. The high -voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil -box and on reaching the contact points on each spark plug it -is forced to jump <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub>″ gap, thereby forming a spark which -ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.</p> - -<p>The spark plug should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) -and should be replaced if they persist in not working -properly. There is nothing to be gained by experimenting -with different makes of plugs. The make of plug with which -Ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are -best adapted to the requirements of our motor, notwithstanding -the opinion of various garage men to the contrary. All -wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator -should, of course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What are the indications of ignition trouble?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that -one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, -and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. -Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure -the engine and the entire mechanism. If you would be known -as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft, steady -purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and fix -it if possible. Do not wait until you get home.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page298">[298]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How can one tell which cylinder is missing?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark -coils. Open the throttle until the engine is running at a -good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators, -No. 1 and No. 4, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This -cuts out the two corresponding cylinders, No. 1 and No. 4, -leaving only No. 2 and No. 3 running. If they explode regularly -it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or No. 4. -Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No. 3 and also No. 1; -if No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is -in No. 1. In this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be -tested until the trouble is located. Examine both the spark -plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> If the coil and plug are right, what?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated -valve, worn commutator, or short circuit in the commutator -wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily determined by -lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of -each cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any -particular valve being easily detected. It sometimes happens -that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky permitting -the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can -be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge -of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Does a worn commutator ever cause misfiring?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, -inspect the commutator. The surface of the circle around -which the roller travels should be clean and smooth, so that -the roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller -fails to make a good contact on any of the four points, its -corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces if -dirty. In case the fiber, contact points, and roller of the commutator -are badly worn, the most satisfactory remedy is to -replace them with new parts. The trouble is probably caused -by short circuited commutator wires. The spring should be -strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points -if they are worn or dirty.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page299">[299]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the commutator removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter -from commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through -breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will release the -spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part -can be readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel -brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The brush can -then be removed from the cam shaft.</p> - -<p>In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that -it is reinstated so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder -is closed when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained -by removing the valve door and observing the operation -of No. 1 valve.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Does cold weather affect the commutator?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is a well known fact that in cold weather the best -grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. -If this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the -roller from making perfect contact with the contact points -imbedded in the fiber. This, of course, makes difficult starting, -as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush -away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact -points. To overcome this, as well as any liability to the contact -points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene -with the commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently -to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly -called. You have probably noticed in starting your car in -cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire -for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is in -the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect -contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the magneto removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car -in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and -transmission cover. Take out the four cap screws that hold -the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access -to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking -out these parts, or any parts of the car, the utmost care should<span class="pagenum" id="Page300">[300]</span> -be taken to make sure that the parts are marked in order that -they may be replaced properly.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is to be done when the magneto gets out of order?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> A Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and -there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength -unless acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the -attachments of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will -demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is -not advisable to try to recharge them, but rather install a -complete set of new magnets. The new magnets will be sent -from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed on -a board in identically the same manner as they should be -when installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken -in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that -the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of -the coil spool just <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>32</sub> of an inch. To take out the old -magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw -which hold each in place. The magneto is often blamed when -the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign -matter accumulating under the contact spring cover. -Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in -place; remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign -substance has been removed.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page301">[301]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">VI<br> -THE FORD TRANSMISSION</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the function of the transmission?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile -which lies between the engine shaft and the propeller shaft -and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from -the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car -forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is meant by the term “planetary transmission”?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> One in which the groups of gears always remain in -mesh and revolve around a main axis. The different sets of -gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of -the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar -to brake bands) the rotation of the different parts is -stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most -direct means of speed control and is a distinct advantage to -the Ford car.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the purpose of the clutch?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break -straight through to the differential and through it applied its -power direct to the rear wheels, the car would start forward -immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible -to get it started under such conditions). To overcome this -difficulty the shaft is divided by means of the clutch. -The part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering -its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part -gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward -part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the -rear part as the drive shaft.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the clutch controlled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> By the left pedal at the driver’s feet. If the clutch<span class="pagenum" id="Page302">[302]</span> -pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency -to stick and not to come back readily into high, tighten up -the slow speed band. Should the machine have an inclination -to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that the clutch -lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and -requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. -When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever -the pedal should move forward the distance of 1<sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>″ in passing -from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe -and connections are in proper order so that the brake will -act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. -Also be sure that the slow speed band does not bind on account -of being adjusted too tight. Do not use too heavy a -grade of oil in cold weather, as it will have a tendency to -congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of -the clutch.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the clutch adjusted?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the -floor boards at the driver’s seat. Take out the cotter key on -the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one -complete turn to the right with a screw driver. Do the same -to the other finger set screw. But be sure to give each the -same number of turns and do not forget to replace the cotter -key. And after a considerable period of service the wear in -the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of -clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screw in -too far.</p> - -<p><b>Caution.</b> Let us warn you against placing any small tools -or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire -or cord attached to them. It is almost impossible to recover -them without taking off the transmission cover.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the bands adjusted?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The slow speed bands may be tightened by loosening -the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover, and -turning up the adjusting screw to the right. To tighten the -brake and reverse bands, remove the transmission case cover -door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shaft to the right. -See that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, -as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. -However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden -pressure will stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels -in case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent -that they will not take hold properly, should be relined, -so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky -movement of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be -had at any of the eight thousand Ford service stations at small -cost.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page303">[303]</span></p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig150"> - -<img src="images/illo325.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w80emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w27pc"> -<col span="2" class="w15pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col class="w08pc"> -<col class="w15pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">Slow Speed Drum and Gear</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Triple Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left top">Brake Drum</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Reverse Drum<br> -and Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">Clutch Disks</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Driven Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">Disk Drum</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Triple Gear Pin</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">Clutch Push Ring</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Trans. Shaft</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="left">Driving Plate</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">Flywheel</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="left">Group 1</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">Clutch Push Ring</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">Clutch Finger</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="left">Driving Plate</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="left">Triple Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Reverse Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Slow Speed Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Driven Gear</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="6" class="left">Clutch Shift</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6" class="left">Clutch Spring</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6" class="left">Clutch Spring Support</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center">Group 5</td> -<td class="left">Clutch Spring Support Pin</td> -<td class="left">Group 4</td> -<td class="left">Group 3</td> -<td colspan="3" class="left">Group 2</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 150. Ford Transmission Assembly</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page304">[304]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the bands removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn -the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to -the extreme ends of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow -speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission -cover to the crank case and lift off the cover assembly. -Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of -the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening -is downward. The band may now be removed by lifting -upward. The operation is more easily accomplished if the -three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about -ten degrees to the right of center at top. Each band is removed -by the same operation. It is necessary to shove each -band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is -there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears -of the transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing -this operation the bands may be installed. After being -placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord -around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center -so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble -will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the -notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be -placed in the rear groove of the clutch shaft. With the -cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place -while the cover was being installed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is transmission assembled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> <a href="#Fig150">Cut No. 150</a> shows the transmission -parts in their relative<span class="pagenum" id="Page305">[305]</span> -assembling positions and grouped in their different operations -of assembling.</p> - -<p>The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which -is as follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub -in a vertical position. Place the slow speed plate over the -hub with the gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over -the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the -slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the hub just above the -slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position with the -teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed -gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the -driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth, the -reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being -downward. After making sure that the triple gears are properly -meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the -outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it -on the table with the face downward and the transmission -shaft in vertical position. Then invert the group which you -have assembled over the transmission shaft, setting it in position -so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass -through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on -top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next -step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft. -Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set -screw in place to hold the drum. Put the large disc over the -clutch drum, then the small disc, alternating with large and -small discs until the entire set of discs are in position, ending -up with a large disc on top. If a small disc is on top it is -liable to fall over the clutch in changing the speed from -high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the -speed back into high. Next put the clutch push rings over -the clutch drum, and on top of the discs, with the three pins -projecting upward (<i>see</i> group No. 4, <a href="#Fig149">cut No. 149</a>). You will -note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. -Next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting -screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push -ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a good<span class="pagenum" id="Page306">[306]</span> -plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the -hands. If the transmission is properly assembled the flywheel -will revolve freely while holding any of the drums stationary. -The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub -as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the -small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put -on the clutch spring, placing the clutch supports inside so that -the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press -into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through -the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the -clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the -bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing -the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension -of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When -tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed -to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to -insure against the clutch spring slipping. Care should be -exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so -the spring is compressed evenly all around.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page307">[307]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">VII<br> -THE REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the rear axle removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed below. -Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball -cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake -rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing -flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can -be easily withdrawn.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive -shaft?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting -and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin -and joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and -out of the housing.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in -front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive -shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the -two halves of differential together. If necessary to disassemble -differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will -permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is -exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin, -bolt and key lock back in its correct position when reassembling.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the drive shaft pinion removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, -is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which -is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter pinned -“castle” nut. Remove the castle nut, and drive the pinion -off.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page308">[308]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the differential gears removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The compensating gears are attached to the inner ends -of the rear axle shaft. They work upon the spider gears when -turning a corner, so that the axle shaft revolves independently, -but when the car is moving in a straight line the spider gears -and compensating gears and axle shaft move as an integral -part. If you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice -that the gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring -which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. -To remove the compensating gears, force them down on the -shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, -drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with -screw driver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the -shafts.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig151"> - -<img src="images/illo330.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col class="w28pc"> -<col class="w14pc"> -<col span="2" class="w05pc"> -<col class="w12pc"> -<col span="2" class="w18pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="4" class="left">Universal Joint Knuckle (Male)<br> -Joint Housing<br> -Joint Coupling Ring<br> -Universal Joint Knuckle (Female)</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="6"> </td> -<td class="left">Radius Rod Castle Nut<br> -Radius Rod Lock Nut<br> -Drive Shaft Front Bushing<br> -Rear Radius Rod<br> -Drive Shaft Tube<br> -Drive Shaft</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left top">Ball Race<br> -Ball Thrust Collar<br> -Drive Shaft Pinion<br> -Driving Gear<br> -Drive Gear Screws</td> -<td rowspan="2" class="left">Drive Shaft<br> -Drive Shaft Tube<br> -Ball Bearing<br> -Ball Bearing Housing<br> -Roller Bearing<br> -Roller Bearing Sleeve<br> -Castle Nut<br> -Differential Pinion<br> -Differential Spider<br> -Differential Gear<br> -Rear Axle Housing (Right)<br> -Thrust Washers</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td colspan="3" class="left top">Rear Radius Rod<br> -Rear Axle Brake Drum<br> -Hub Brake Cam Shaft<br> -Hub Brake Cam Shaft Lever<br> -Radius Rod Bolt and Nut</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left top">Lock Wire<br> -Thrust Washer (Steel)<br> -Thrust Washer (Babbitt)<br> -Thrust Washer (Steel)<br> -Gear Case (Left)</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Mud Cap<br> -Cotter Pin<br> -Castle Nut<br> -Hub Key<br> -Hub<br> -Hub Flange</td> -<td colspan="2" class="left bot">Roller Bearing Sleeve<br> -Roller Bearing<br> -Axle Housing Cap<br> -Axle Roller Bearing Steel Washer<br> -Brake Shoe Support Bolt and Nut</td> -<td colspan="2" class="center">Rear Axle Shaft<br> -Rear Axle Roller Bearing Sleeve<br> -Rear Axle Roller Bearing<br> -<span class="padl6">Rear Axle Housing (Left)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Gear Case (Right)<br> -Differential Case Stud<br> -Grease Plug</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 151. Ford Rear Axle System</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the rear axle shaft removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Disconnect rear axle as directed above, then unbolt the -drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at -the differential. Disconnect the two radius rods at the outer -end of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two<span class="pagenum" id="Page309">[309]</span> -halves of the rear axle housing together at the center. Take -the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft -through the housing at the center. After replacing the axle -shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at -the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. -When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make -it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to -overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely -important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise -the constant rocking back and forth against the key may -in time cause serious trouble. If the rear axle or wheel is -sprung by skidding against the curb, or other accident, it is -false economy to drive the car, as tires, gears and all other -parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper -facilities, be straightened, but it is best to replace it.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig152"> - -<img src="images/illo331.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w20emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="left">Axle Housing Cap<br> -Hub Key<br> -Lock Nut<br> -Hub Brake Drum</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Coil Spring<br> -Hub Brake Cam<br> -Axle Shaft<br> -Hub Brake Shoe</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 152. Ford Brake</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page310">[310]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">VIII<br> -THE FORD MUFFLER</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Why is the muffler necessary?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the -exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise -were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively small -pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the -muffler, where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion -and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise. -The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very little -back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there is -nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out on the exhaust pipe -between the engine and the muffler.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the muffler kept in order?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It should be cleaned occasionally. Remove it and take -off nuts on ends of rods which hold it together, and disassemble.</p> - -<p>In reassembling muffler, be careful not to get the holes in -the inner shells on the same side or end.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the muffler disconnected?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> To disconnect the muffler it is not necessary to disconnect -the exhaust pipe from the motor (although it is a good -plan and a simple matter, necessitating only unscrewing the -union). To disconnect muffler from frame, unscrew union at -formed end of pipe, drop it down so it will clear the frame and -slip it back off the tube. If the muffler from any cause becomes -materially damaged it will probably be cheaper to replace -it with a new one than to attempt to repair it.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page311">[311]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">IX<br> -THE RUNNING GEAR</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What care should the running gear have?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication -(<i>see</i> chapter on <a href="#Page316">Lubrication</a>). Once in every thirty -days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over -to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring -connections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, -are thoroughly lubricated, and that all nuts and connections -are secured with center pins in place. The spring -clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be -inspected frequently to see that every thing is in perfect order.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Fig153"> - -<img src="images/illo333.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w25emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left top">Spindle oiler<br> -Spindle Bolt<br> -Spindle Body Bushing<br> -Spindle Con. Rod Bolt<br> -Spindle Con. Rod Yoke<br> -Spindle Arm</td> -<td class="left">Spoke<br> -Felt Washer<br> -Hub Bolt<br> -Large Ball Race<br> -Hub Flange<br> -Hub<br> -Spindle<br> -Grease Chamber<br> -Ball Bearings<br> -Adjusting Cone<br> -Lock Nut<br> -Hub Cap<br> -Washer<br> -Ball Retainer<br> -Small Ball Race</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">Clamp Bolt<br> -Spindle Arm Nut<br> -Spindle Body Bushing<br> -Spidle Bolt Nut</td> -<td class="left bot">Stationary Cone<br> -Ball Retainer<br> -Dust Ring</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 153. Ford Spindle</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the front axle removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed. Disconnect -steering gear arm from the spindle connecting rod,<span class="pagenum" id="Page312">[312]</span> -disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin -bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front -spring.</p> - -<p>To disconnect radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of -the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> In case of accident, how is the front axle straightened?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Should the axle or spindle become bent, extreme care -must be used to straighten the parts accurately. Do not -heat the forgings, as this will distemper the steel, but -straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return -such parts to the factory, where they may be properly -straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It is very -essential that the wheels line up properly. The eye is not -sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been -properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires -will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about the wheels?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, -not only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. -If in spinning a front wheel a sharp click is heard, now and -then, and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that -there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be -removed, otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire -bearing. A wheel in perfect adjustment should after spinning, -come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub. -Undue wear of the hub bearings, such as cones, balls and races, -is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction, -due to the adjusting cone being drawn up too tight. It is a -good plan to clean the bearing frequently and keep the hub -well filled with grease.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the wheels removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> <i>Front wheels.</i> Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin -and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable -bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. -Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are -replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, -otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are<span class="pagenum" id="Page313">[313]</span> -left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand -facing the car. <i>Back wheels.</i> They should not be removed -unless absolutely necessary, in which case proceed as above. -Then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered -shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear -wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible -and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels -should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold -the hub in place tightened. If these nuts are allowed to work -loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist -off the axle shaft.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the setting of the front wheels differ from -that of the rear wheels?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It will be observed that the front wheels are “dished”; -that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable -them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance, while -the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels -are also placed at an angle, that is to say, the distance between -the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater -than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering -qualities and to save wear on tires when turning corners. The -front wheels should not, however, “toe-in” at the front, at -least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along -the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a -forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always -be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be -difficult and tire wear will be greatly increased. Adjustment -can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle -connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What care do the springs need?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or -graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and -insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a -general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and -the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them -with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented -from accumulating on the springs by painting them when<span class="pagenum" id="Page314">[314]</span> -necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that -these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the -riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts -as well.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Should spring clips be kept tight?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the -entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the -center of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared -off and allow the frame and body to shift to one side. It is -a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the -springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about the steering apparatus?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is exceedingly simple and will need little care except, -of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged -in the “sun and planet” form are located at the top of -the post just below the hub of the wheel. By loosening the -set screw and unscrewing the cap after having removed the -steering wheel they may readily be inspected and replenished -with grease. To remove the steering wheel unscrew the nut on -top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block -of wood and hammer.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the steering gear tightened?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that -a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate -results, it may be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect -the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the -ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the -surface until they fit snugly around the ball. If the ball is -badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one. Also -tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear -connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering -spindle arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should -be replaced with new ones. Excessive play in the front axle -may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the -spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the -car has been in service two or three years excessive play in -the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little<span class="pagenum" id="Page315">[315]</span> -pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the -steering wheel spider.</p> - -<p>It is also advisable to inspect the front spring hangers occasionally -to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary -to overcome any excessive vibration.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page316">[316]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">X<br> -THE FORD LUBRICATING SYSTEM</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the Ford lubricating system differ from others?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is simplified,—and there are fewer places to oil. -Practically all of the parts of the engine and transmission are -oiled by the Ford splash system, from the one big oil reservoir -in the crank case. <a href="#Fig154">Fig. 154</a> shows the principal points -of lubrication, and specifies when replenishment should be -made, according to mileage. This chart should be studied carefully -and often. It is a good plan to frequently supply all oil -cups with the same oil used in the engine (any good light -grade lubricating oil will answer) and the dope cups with good -grease. Be sure to see that the commutator is kept freely -supplied with oil at all times.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Which is the best way to fill the dope cups?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> When it is advisable to fill the dope cup covers screw -them down, refill with grease and repeat the operation two -or three times. Always open oil cups by turning to the right, -as this keeps tightening them rather than loosening them. -Occasionally remove front wheels and supply dope to wearing -surface. A drop of oil now and then in crank handle bearing -is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and shaft. The axles, -drive shaft, and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant -when the car leaves the factory, but it is well to examine -and oil them frequently.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page317">[317]</span></p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Fig154"> - -<img src="images/illo339.jpg" alt=""> - -<div class="illotext w25emmax"> - -<table class="legend"> - -<colgroup> -<col span="2" class="w50pc"> -</colgroup> - -<tr> -<td class="left">A—Oil Every 200 Miles. -<td class="left">C—Grease Every 200 Miles. -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left">B—Oil Every 500 Miles.<br> -<td class="left">D—Grease Every 500 Miles.<br> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">E—Grease Every 1000 Miles.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">F—Oil Motor Daily. Keep oil level between<br> -crank case pet cocks.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="center">G—Grease Every 5000 Miles.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="caption">Fig. 154. Ford Chassis Oiling Chart</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page318">[318]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What kind of oil should be used?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> We recommend only light high grade gas engine oil for -use in the model T motor. A light grade of oil is preferred -as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and -consequently less heat will develop on account of friction. The -oil should, however, have sufficient body so that the pressure -between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out -and allow the metal to come in actual contact. Heavy and -inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also “gum -up” the piston rings, valve stems and bearing. In cold -weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely -essential for the proper lubrication of the car. The nearest -Ford branch will advise you concerning the lubricating oil -this company has found best suited for its cars, both for summer -and winter weather. Graphite should not be used as a -lubricant in the engine or transmission as it will have a tendency -to short circuit the magneto.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How often should the oil be drained from crank cases?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining -out the dirty oil when the new car has been driven four or -five hundred miles; thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat -this operation about every thousand miles. Remove plug -underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil. Replace -the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the -breather pipe. Turn the engine over by hand fifteen or twenty -times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly -clean the engine. Remove crank case plug and drain off -kerosene oil. In order to get all of the kerosene out of the -depressions in the crank case the car should be run up a little -incline, about the height of the ordinary street curbing. Refill -with fresh oil.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How often should the commutator be oiled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far -greater importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary -in order to have a smooth operating engine. Do not be -afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day—at -least every two hundred miles. Remember that the commutator -roller revolves very rapidly, and without sufficient oil -the parts soon become badly worn. When in this condition -perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points -is impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running -at a good rate of speed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page319">[319]</span></p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about lubricating the differentials?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in -the differential housing. The housing should not be more than -one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required -amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil -plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more -grease added if necessary. If a fluid is used the level should -be approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page320">[320]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">XI<br> -CARE OF TIRES</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are Ford tires removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve -cap should be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve -stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. -This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of -the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert -one of the tire irons or levers under the beads. The -tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good -hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to pinch -the inner tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron -should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight -inches from the first, and a third tool the same distance -from the second. As a cylinder tire must be pried over the -clinch, three or four levers will come in handy in a case -of a “one man job,” and the knee of the driver can be used -to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other -two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the -rim. After freeing a length of the bead from the clinch, the -entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with -the hand, and the damaged inner tube removed and “patched” -or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone in -replacing an inner tube.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are casings repaired?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner -tube being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made -by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before -applying the patch the part of the casing affected should -be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied<span class="pagenum" id="Page321">[321]</span> -to both casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency -repair, but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.</p> - -<p>To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the -tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially -prepared “plastic” sold by tire companies.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How may tire expense be reduced?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items -in the running expenses of an automobile. To get the most -service at the least expense, the tire should be inspected frequently -and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired,—thus -preventing dirt and water working in between -the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or sand boils.</p> - -<p>Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side -walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stress, -which is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a -puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly -inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to -the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects -that would penetrate a soft tire.</p> - -<p>Running a flat tire, even for a short distance, is sure to be -costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, -rather than on a flat tire.</p> - -<p>Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of -the tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes,—no tire -will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement -in this fashion.</p> - -<p>Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the -side of the tire against the curbing.</p> - -<p>The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept -free from rust.</p> - -<p>When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it -should be jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the -car is laid up for many months, it is best to remove the tires, -and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, -and store them in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperature. -Remove oil or grease from the tires with gasoline.<span class="pagenum" id="Page322">[322]</span> -Remember that heat, light and oil are three natural enemies -to rubber.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is a puncture in the inner tube repaired?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber -around the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then rough the -surface with sand paper from your tire repair kit to give -a hold for the cement. Apply the cement to both patch and -tube, allowing it to dry for about five minutes, repeating -the application twice with like intervals between for drying. -When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against -the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles -beneath it and insure proper adherence to the surface. Then -spread some soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as -to prevent the tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube -is put back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be -sprinkled into the latter. A cement patch is not usually permanent -and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as possible. -In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to -pinch the tube.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page323">[323]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">XII<br> -POINTS ON MAINTENANCE</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What is the proper way to wash the car?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Always use cold or lukewarm water,—never hot water. -If a hose is used, do not turn on the water at full force, as -this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. -After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off, take -a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid -solution of water and ivory or linseed oil soap. Then rinse -off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with -a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality -may be used to add luster to the car. Grease on the running -gear may be removed with a gasoline soaked sponge or rag. -The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal -polish.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What care does the top need?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> When putting the top down be careful in folding to -see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, -as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Always -slip the hood over the top when folded to keep out dust -and dirt. Applying a good top dressing will greatly improve -the appearance of an old top.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What should be done when the car is stored?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in -about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of -any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head -and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. -Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank -case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed above. -Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine -enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the<span class="pagenum" id="Page324">[324]</span> -tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible -cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What attention do the electric headlights require?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Very little. When the cars leave our factory the -lamps are properly focussed and unless the bulb burns out -there should be no occasion for removing the door, as there -is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed -for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the -silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft, -clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the -adjusting screw in the back of the lamp in either direction -until the desired focus is attained. The bulbs we are furnishing -in electric head lamps are 8 volts, 2 amperes, and best -results will be obtained by securing lamps of this voltage and -amperage when replacement is necessary.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page325">[325]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">XIII<br> -THE FORD MODEL T ONE TON TRUCK</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Do the instructions relative to the car apply to the -truck?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the -truck.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the rear axle removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Jack up the truck, place supports under rear axle -housings, and remove the rear wheels. Take out the four -bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case -and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding -spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame by -placing a long iron bar or gas pipe under the frame just -in front of rear spring, one end resting on a substantial support -of the proper height. Two workmen at the other end -of the bar can raise the frame and place the end of the bar -on another support. The rear axle assembly can then be -easily removed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive -shaft?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting -and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out -pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the -shaft and out of the housing.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt -in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the -drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the -rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two -halves of the differential housing together. With the differential -exposed to view, the manner of disassembling it will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page326">[326]</span> -apparent. Care must be exercised to get every part back -in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use -new paper liners.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the worm removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the -coupling to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt -washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping -them over the coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive -shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing -the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining -washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling -be sure that the pin which holds the retaining -washer stationary is in place.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the rear axle shaft removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Remove the rear axle assembly as directed above. Disconnect -brake rods and radius rods at rear axle housing -flange; also remove nuts holding spring perches to flanges. -Take out the cap screws holding the drive shaft tube to the -rear axle housing and remove the rear axle housing cap and -the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing -together, then pull or force the housing from the shafts -and disassemble differential. After replacing the axle shaft -be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the -outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. -When the truck has been driven thirty days or so make it -a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome -any play that might have developed. It is extremely -important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the -constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in -time cause serious trouble.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the differential gear removed from the shaft?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of -the rear axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position -by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove -in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on -the shaft, that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, -drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with<span class="pagenum" id="Page327">[327]</span> -screw driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of the -shaft.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about lubricating the rear axle?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. -An A-1 heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil -C or Whittemore’s Worm Gear Protective, should be used -and cared at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential -is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when -the car leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained -by replenishments as required. After running the -truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing -the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh -lubricant. This operation should be repeated at approximately -1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The -rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of -dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good -grade of grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before -putting the truck back into service after the rear axle -has been taken out fill the differential with oil, jack up the -axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubricant -of all bearings.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page328">[328]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak">XIV<br> -THE F. A. STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM INSTALLED -ON SEDANS AND COUPÉS</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Of what does the starting and lighting system consist?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type -and consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, -charging indicator, and lights, together with the necessary -wiring and connections.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Where is the starter located?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The starting motor is mounted on the left hand side of -the engine and bolted to the transmission cover. When in -operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft engages with -the teeth on the flywheel.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What must be done before starting the engine?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The spark and the throttle levers should be placed in -the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, -and the ignition switch turned on. Current from either battery -or magneto may be used for ignition. When starting, -especially when the engine is cold the ignition switch should -be turned to battery. As soon as the engine is warmed up, -turn switch back to magneto. The magneto was designed to -furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better results will -be obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must -be paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced -spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn will bend -or break the shaft in the starter. The starting motor is -operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor -of the car at the driver’s feet. With the spark and throttle -levers in the proper position, and the ignition switch turned -on, press on the push button with the foot. This closes<span class="pagenum" id="Page329">[329]</span> -the circuit between the battery and the starting motor, causing -the pinion of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the -teeth on the flywheel, thus turning over the crank shaft. -When the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it by -pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is located on -the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the engine -with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should -only be held out for a few seconds at a time.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What if the engine fails to start?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over -and the engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting -system. In this event, release the button at once so as not -to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor -and ignition system to determine the trouble.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What if the starting motor fails to act?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the -button, first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the -two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting -switch, making sure all the connections are tight; then -examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would -cause a short circuit. If the wiring and connections are -O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the battery -with the hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than -1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged -battery.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the generator operated?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The generator is mounted on the right hand side of the -engine and bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is -operated by the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with -the large time gear. The charging rate of the generator is -set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding to ten -miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging -rate at twenty miles per hour. At higher speeds the charge -will taper off, which is a settled characteristic of battery -charging. This operation of cutting in and cutting out at -suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out, which is -mounted on the dash. This cut-out is set properly at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page330">[330]</span> -factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered -with.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about oiling?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash -system, the same as the engine and the transmission. The -generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the time gears. -In addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator -housing and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What should be done when repairing the ignition?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The introduction of a battery current into the magneto -will discharge the magnets and whenever repairing the ignition -system or tampering with the wiring in any way, do not -fail to disconnect the positive wire from the battery. The end -of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent its coming -in contact with the ignition system or metal parts of the car.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How does the charging indicator work?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The charging indicator is located on the instrument -board. This indicator registers “charge” when the generator -is charging the battery and “discharge” when the lights are -burning and the engine not running above ten miles per hour. -At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour or more the indicator -should show a reading of from 10 to 12 even with the lights -burning. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour -and the indicator does not show “charge,” first inspect the -terminal posts on the indicator, making sure that the connections -are tight, then disconnect the wire from the terminal -on generator, and with the engine running at a moderate -speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw driver and short circuit -the terminal stud on the generator to the generator housing. -If the generator is O.K., a good live spark will be noted. -(Do not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the -terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from -the generator through the charging indicator to the battery -for a break in the insulation that would result in a short -circuit.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How are the lights operated?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The lighting system consists of two 2-bulb headlights<span class="pagenum" id="Page331">[331]</span> -and a tail light operated by a combination lighting and ignition -switch located on the instrument board. The large bulbs -are of 6-8 candle-power type. The small bulbs of 6-8 -volt two candle-power type. The small bulb is also used in -the tail light. All of the lamps are connected in parallel so -that the burning out or removal of any one of them will -not effect the other. Current for the lamps is supplied by -the battery. Do not connect the lights with the magneto as -it will result in burning out the bulbs and might discharge -the magnets.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about repairing starter and generator?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If either the starter or generator fails to give proper -service, the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford -dealer. If the trouble is not found in the wiring, connections, -etc., as outlined, the dealer will remove the starter -or generator, or both if necessary, and return them intact -to the nearest branch for repair or replacement. Dealers or -owners should not attempt to repair or tamper in any way -with the mechanism of the starter and generator.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the starter removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> When removing the starter to replace transmission -bands, or for any other reason, first remove the engine pan -and the left hand side of the engine and with a screw driver -remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the -transmission cover. Upon removing cover and gasket, turn -the Bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw on the -end of the shaft is in the upward position. Immediately -under the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with -lips or extensions opposite each other on the outside diameter. -One of these is turned against the collar and the other is -turned up against the side of the screw head. Bend back -the lip which has been forced against the screw and remove -the set screw. As the lock washer will no doubt be broken -or weakened in removing the starter, a new one must be -used in replacing it. These washers may be obtained from -the nearest branch. Next, pull the Bendix assembly out of -the housing, being careful that the small key is not misplaced<span class="pagenum" id="Page332">[332]</span> -or lost. Remove the four screws which hold the starter -housing to the transmission cover and pull out the starter, -taking same down through the chassis,—this is why it was -necessary to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should -be used in removing the Bendix drive and other parts that -none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced in their -former positions. In replacing the starter, be sure that the -terminal connection is placed at the top. If the car is to -be operated with the starter removed, be sure to put the -transmission cover plates in position. These plates may also -be obtained from the nearest branch.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> How is the generator removed?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first -take out the three cap screws holding it to the front end -cover and by placing the point of a screw driver between -the generator and front end cover; the generator may be -forced off the engine assembly. Always start at the top -of the generator and force it backward and downward at the -same time. Plates may be obtained from the nearest branch -to place over the time gear if the car is to be operated -with the generator removed.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> Can the engine be run with the generator disconnected -from the battery?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> If for any reason it is run with the generator disconnected -from the battery, as on a block test, or when battery -has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that the -generator is grounded to the engine by running a wire -from the terminal on generator to one of the valve cover -stud nuts. A piece of wire <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>″ or more in diameter may -be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections -at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do this -when running the engine with the generator disconnected -from the battery will result in serious injury to the generator.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about the care of the battery, repairing of recharging?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The Ford Starting System uses a 6-volt 13-plate<span class="pagenum" id="Page333">[333]</span> -“Exide” battery, type 3-XC-13-1. The care of the battery -in service is summed up in the following rules:</p> - -<p>1. Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often -enough to keep the plates covered at all times. Distilled -water, melted artificial ice or rain water collected in clean -receptacles is recommended. In cold weather add water only -just before running the engine so that the charging may mix -the water and the electrolyte and freezing of the water be -avoided.</p> - -<p>2. Take frequent hydrometer readings to make sure that the -generator is keeping the battery charged. To take reading -remove filler cap of cell, insert end of hydrometer syringe in -filler opening, squeeze bulb, and release, drawing up enough -liquid to float hydrometer bulb free in the liquid. The reading -of the scale at the surface of the liquid when hydrometer -is floating in the specific gravity (density) of the electrolyte. -A fully charged battery will show a reading of 1.275 to 1.300. -A battery half charged will show a reading of 1.225 to 1.250. -A completely discharged battery will show a reading of 1.200 -or less. When taking hydrometer readings remove the filler -cap from only one cell at a time and be sure to return -electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Then replace -and tighten the filler cap. Hydrometer tests taken immediately -after filling with water and before water has become -thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show -the true condition of the battery.</p> - -<p>3. If hydrometer reading shows battery less than half -charged it should be taken to the nearest Exide Battery Service -Station for recharging. Continued operation in a less -than half charged condition is injurious to the battery, just -as running in a soft or deflated condition is injurious to the -tires.</p> - -<p>4. Keep the filler caps in place and screwed tight,—a half -turn tightens them. Keep battery connections tight and -clean. A coating of heavy oil or vaseline will protect the -connectors from corrosion. Keep battery firmly secured in -place. If hold-downs are loose battery will shift about in<span class="pagenum" id="Page334">[334]</span> -compartment and result in loose connections, broken cells or -other trouble.</p> - -<p>5. Exide Battery Stations are maintained in principal cities -and towns throughout the country to assist you to obtain good -service from your battery. Do not entrust your battery to -the care of a novice.</p> - -<p><i>Q.</i> What about battery guarantee?</p> - -<p><i>A.</i> The Exide batteries are guaranteed by the manufacturers -(The Electric Storage Battery Company, Philadelphia, -Pa.) to be free from defects in material and workmanship.</p> - -<p>At any time within three months from date of delivery to -the purchaser any battery which may prove to be defective or -incapable, when fully charged, of giving its rated capacity, -will be repaired or replaced free of expense upon receipt, -transportation charges prepaid, at any Exide Battery Depot -or authorized Exide Battery Service Station. This guarantee -does not cover the free charging of batteries nor the making -good of damage resulting from continued lack of filling the -cells from time to time with pure water. No claims on account -of alleged defects can be allowed unless made within -three months of date of delivery of battery to purchaser, and -the right is reserved to refuse to consider claims in the case -of batteries opened by other than authorized Exide Battery -Service Stations.</p> - -<p>Purchasers of cars equipped with the “Exide” batteries -are earnestly urged to coöperate with the battery manufacturers -to taking their cars, as promptly as possible after receipt, -by the nearest Exide Battery Service Station in order -that the battery may be tested and its condition and installation -checked. No charge is made for this inspection.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page335">[335]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INDEX</h2> - -</div> - -<ul class="index"> - -<li><span class="righttext fsize70">PAGE</span></li> - -<li>Accumulator <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li>Alignment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page229">229</a></span></li> - -<li>Alternating current <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page96">96</a></span></li> - -<li>Ammeter <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li>Ampere <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page95">95</a></span></li> - -<li>Atwater Kent ignition systems <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page126">126</a></span></li> - -<li>Automobile arrangement of parts <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page245">245</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">painting <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page262">262</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">troubles <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page264">264</a></span></li> - -<li>Axles <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page212">212</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">dead, type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page212">212</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">front <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page214">214</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">full-floating <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page213">213</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">live, type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page212">212</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">semi-floating <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page212">212</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Battery, storage <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li>Bearings, types of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page236">236</a></span></li> - -<li>Bijur starter mechanism <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page151">151</a></span></li> - -<li>Body, care and washing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page253">253</a></span></li> - -<li>Borg and Beck clutch <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page192">192</a></span></li> - -<li>Bosch Magneto, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page105">105</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cutting out ignition <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page110">110</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">safety spark gap <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page109">109</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">timing of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page106">106</a></span></li> - -<li>Brakes, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page218">218</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page221">221</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">equalizer <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page220">220</a></span></li> - -<li>Breaker box and distributor head assembly, N.E. <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page117">117</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Cam shaft <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page18">18</a></span></li> - -<li>Cam shaft drive <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page19">19</a></span></li> - -<li>Car, arrangement and parts, cleaning <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page243">243</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care, cleaning and washing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page253">253</a></span></li> - -<li>Carburetion <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page46">46</a></span></li> - -<li>Carburetor, types, operation <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page46">46</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">adjustments of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page56">56</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">kerosene, principle of operation <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page76">76</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">adjustment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page78">78</a></span></li> - -<li>Charging rate, adjustment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page165">165</a></span></li> - -<li>Choking coil <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page97">97</a></span></li> - -<li>Circuit breaker <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li>Clutch, construction of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page189">189</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cone type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page191">191</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">multiple disc type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page192">192</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">leathers and patterns <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page196">196</a></span></li> - -<li>Coil, non-vibrating <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li>Commutator <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page97">97</a></span></li> - -<li>Condenser <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page97">97</a></span></li> - -<li>Contact breaker <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li>Cooling system, necessity, types and care <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page82">82</a></span></li> - -<li>Crank shaft, counterbalanced <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page17">17</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">four-throw plain <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page17">17</a></span></li> - -<li>Current, high tension, low tension <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page95">95</a></span></li> - -<li>Cylinder head <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page14">14</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Delco, electrical system<span class="pagenum" id="Page336">[336]</span>, -<span class="righttext"><a href="#Page96">96</a></span></li> - -<li>Differential gears <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page207">207</a></span></li> - -<li>Direct current <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page96">96</a></span></li> - -<li>Disc clutch, cleaning <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page195">195</a></span></li> - -<li>Distributor <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Electric starter and light equipment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page147">147</a></span></li> - -<li>Electrical, equipment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page154">154</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">systems <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page153">153</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">tuning hints <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page259">259</a></span></li> - -<li>Electrolyte <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li>Engine, 4-cycle type, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page29">29</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">assembly of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page36">36</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care and cleaning of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page253">253</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">construction and parts <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page12">12</a></span></li> - -<li>Evaporation <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page84">84</a></span></li> - -<li>Exact magneto timing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page108">108</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Filling vacuum tank <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page94">94</a></span></li> - -<li>Flywheel, types, care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page20">20</a></span></li> - -<li>Ford car, operation and care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page269">269</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cooling system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page287">287</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">engine, operation and care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page277">277</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">maintenance <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page280">280</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">valve arrangement <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page279">279</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">valve grinding <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page280">280</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">valve timing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page279">279</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">gasoline system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page290">290</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">ignition system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page295">295</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">lubrication system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page316">316</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">maintenance points <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page323">323</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">muffler <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page310">310</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">one-ton truck <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page325">325</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">rear axle assembly <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page307">307</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">running gear <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page311">311</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">starting and lighting system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page328">328</a></span></li> - -<li>Ford car, tire care <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page320">320</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">transmission system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page301">301</a></span></li> - -<li>Fuse, construction, use of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page97">97</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Gasoline engine construction <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page12">12</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">parts assembly <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page36">36</a></span></li> - -<li>Gear, shifts <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page200">200</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">box arrangement <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page201">201</a></span></li> - -<li>Generator <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page147">147</a></span></li> - -<li>Greases <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page40">40</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Heated manifolds <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page79">79</a></span></li> - -<li>High speed <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page189">189</a></span></li> - -<li>High tension current <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page95">95</a></span></li> - -<li>Hydrometer syringe <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Induction coil <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page96">96</a></span></li> - -<li>Ignition coil, N.E. type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page117">117</a></span></li> - -<li>Ignition distributor, N.E. type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page116">116</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Kick switch arrangement <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page137">137</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">coil <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page137">137</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Lamp controllers <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page159">159</a></span></li> - -<li>Lens, cleaning of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page254">254</a></span></li> - -<li>Lubrication, of spring leaves <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page224">224</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">systems <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page39">39</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Magneto, parts, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page101">101</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">timing of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page113">113</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">washing, repair <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page111">111</a></span></li> - -<li>Main bearings <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page17">17</a></span></li> - -<li>Manifold, action of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page80">80</a></span></li> - -<li>Mechanical alignment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page230">230</a></span></li> - -<li>Mufflers, design, care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page86">86</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cleaning <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page87">87</a></span></li> - -<li>Multiple cylinders<span class="pagenum" id="Page337">[337]</span>, -<span class="righttext"><a href="#Page12">12</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">North East Automatic spark advance <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page121">121</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">breaker cam <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page120">120</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">breaker contacts <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page119">119</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">ignition system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page114">114</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">starter system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page161">161</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Ohm <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page95">95</a></span></li> - -<li>Oils, quality, grade of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page40">40</a></span></li> - -<li>Oil reservoir <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page19">19</a></span></li> - -<li>One unit, electrical system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page148">148</a></span></li> - -<li>Overhauling car <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page247">247</a></span></li> - -<li>Overheating <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page83">83</a></span></li> - -<li>Operation of starter <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page156">156</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Philbrin ignition system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page141">141</a></span></li> - -<li>Pistons <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page15">15</a></span></li> - -<li>Piston rings <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page15">15</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">rod bearings <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page16">16</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">rods <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page16">16</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">wrist pins <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page15">15</a></span></li> - -<li>Plunger pump oiling system, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page42">42</a></span></li> - -<li>Power stroke <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page31">31</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">lapping <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page32">32</a></span></li> - -<li>Poppet valve, construction <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page23">23</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">adjustment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page23">23</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">operation <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page23">23</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Radiator, cleaning <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page83">83</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">freezing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page84">84</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">solutions <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page84">84</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">repairs <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page84">84</a></span></li> - -<li>Regulation of generator <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li>Repair equipment <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page25">25</a></span></li> - -<li>Rug cleaning <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page254">254</a></span></li> - -<li>Running gear, washing of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page253">253</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Schebler-carburetor, model R, adjustment of, -<span class="righttext"><a href="#Page63">63</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">Ford “A,” adjustment of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page74">74</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">Ford “A,” operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page73">73</a></span></li> - -<li>Semi-floating axle, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page212">212</a></span></li> - -<li>Spark plugs, construction of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page186">186</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page186">186</a></span></li> - -<li>Splash oiling system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page40">40</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page41">41</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cleaning of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page41">41</a></span></li> - -<li>Spring, care, tests <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page225">225</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">types, care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page226">226</a></span></li> - -<li>Starter-Generator, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page163">163</a></span></li> - -<li>Starting motor, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page149">149</a></span></li> - -<li>Steering gear, types <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page232">232</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">adjustment of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page233">233</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page235">235</a></span></li> - -<li>Stewart carburetor, operation, care of and maintenance <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page65">65</a></span></li> - -<li>Storage battery, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page180">180</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">charging <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page182">182</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">freezing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page185">185</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">maintenance <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page182">182</a></span></li> - -<li>Strainer for gasoline <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page93">93</a></span></li> - -<li>Stroke <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page31">31</a></span></li> - -<li>Stromberg carburetor, model M <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page47">47</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">model L <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page58">58</a></span></li> - -<li>Sunderman carburetor, action of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page60">60</a></span></li> - -<li>Switches<span class="pagenum" id="Page338">[338]</span> <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page100">100</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Three unit, electrical system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page148">148</a></span></li> - -<li>Tire, build, quality <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page256">256</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">chains <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page257">257</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">rim care <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page254">254</a></span></li> - -<li>Top, care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page254">254</a></span></li> - -<li>Transmissions <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page198">198</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">gear shifts <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page200">200</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">box arrangement <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page201">201</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">care of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page202">202</a></span></li> - -<li>Tube, care <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page258">258</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">repairing <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page258">258</a></span></li> - -<li>Two unit, electrical system <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page148">148</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Universal joints <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page204">204</a></span></li> - -<li>Upholstering <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page254">254</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Vacuum systems <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page89">89</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">cleaning strainer <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page93">93</a></span></li> - -<li>Vacuum systems, operation of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page90">90</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">troubles <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page93">93</a></span></li> - -<li>Valve, types, arrangement of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page21">21</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">grinding <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page25">25</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">setting <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page24">24</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">sleeve type <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page26">26</a></span></li> -<li class="level2">setting of <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page27">27</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">timing marks <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page25">25</a></span></li> - -<li>Voltage <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page95">95</a></span></li> - -<li>Voltaic cells <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li class="newletter">Water cooling <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page82">82</a></span></li> - -<li>Water vents <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page16">16</a></span></li> - -<li>Wheels, lining up <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page229">229</a></span></li> - -<li>Windshield, cleaning and care <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page99">99</a></span></li> - -<li>Wiring <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page114">114</a></span></li> - -<li>Wrapping springs <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page224">224</a></span></li> - -<li>Wrist pins <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page15">15</a></span></li> -<li class="level1">bushings <span class="righttext"><a href="#Page15">15</a></span></li> - -</ul> - -<hr class="full"> - -<div class="tnbot" id="TN"> - -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>The text of this e-text is that as printed in the source document. Unless listed under Changes -below, factual errors, inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, the inconsistent use of quote marks surrounding -reference letters or model and type letters, the inconsistent use of per cent with and without full stop, etc. have not been -corrected or standardised. The automobile brand consistently called Jeffrey in the text was actually called Jeffery. The -(minor) differences in wording and structure between the table of contents and the text have not been standardised.</p> - -<p>Hyperlinks have been provided only where the target is clear and unambiguous.</p> - -<p>Depending on the hard- and software used to read this text and their settings, not all elements may display -as intended.</p> - -<p>Page 8: there are no seventeenth and eighteenth items listed; items nineteen and twenty are cardinal rather than -ordinal numbers in the source document.</p> - -<p>Page 14, Fig. 3: the oddly shaped cylinder head is as printed in the source document.</p> - -<p>Page 33, ... Twin, Four, and Six Cylindered Motors ... and ... a case where two, four, or two six cylindered motors -are set ...: as printed in the source document; the commas between Twin and Four and between two and four are possibly -erroneous.</p> - -<p>Page 35, calculation of piston displacement: the calculation results in 192.42 cubic inches.</p> - -<p>Page 54: Fig. 32 shows an exterior photograph ...: as printed in the source document; Fig. 32 is obviously a drawing.</p> - -<p>Page 128 and 135: Fig. 68 and Fig. 75 and their captions are identical in the source document.</p> - -<p>Page 159 and 183: Fig. 91 and Fig. 103 and their captions are identical in the source document.</p> - -<p>Page 205 Whitemore and page 327 Whittemore: possibly misspellings of Whitmore.</p> - -<p class="blankbefore75">Changes made</p> - -<p>Most tables and illustrations have been moved out of text paragraphs. In some tables and lists the ditto character -has been replaced with the dittoed text.</p> - -<p>Some minor obvious typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently.</p> - -<p>Above or underneath some illustrations <span class="illotext">dashed boxes</span> provide -transcriptions (and an indication of their relative positions) of the explanatory and descriptive texts inside the -accompanying illustration. These transcriptions do not occur as such in the source document but have been provided for -the sake of legibility and searchability.</p> - -<p>Page xii: page number 126 inserted.</p> - -<p>Page 1-2: Daimler was consistently spelled Diamler; this has been corrected.</p> - -<p>Page 3: Marquis de Doin changed to Marquis de Dion.</p> - -<p>Page 33: ... a staggard position ... changed to ... a staggered position ....</p> - -<p>Page 47: ... through a verticle channel ... changed to ... through a vertical channel ....</p> - -<p>Page 47, 48: ... air bled jet ... changed to ... air bleed jet ... (2 ×).</p> - -<p>Page 70: ... which embodies a radically new principal ... changed to ... which embodies a radically new principle ....</p> - -<p>Page 82: It acts on the principal that ... changed to It acts on the principle that ....</p> - -<p>Page 84: ... its freezing point being 8% below zero ... changed to ... its freezing point being 8° below zero ....</p> - -<p>Page 87: ... are scrapped and rubbed ... changed to ... are scraped and rubbed ....</p> - -<p>Page 98: reference letters A-F in paragraph Dynamo changed to lower case as in illustration.</p> - -<p>Page 117: ... the verticle shaft bearing sleeve ... changed to ... the vertical shaft bearing sleeve ....</p> - -<p>Page 126: ... which eliminate troubles ... changed to ... which eliminates troubles ....</p> - -<p>Page 152: Figs. 87 (Position 2A) and 87A (Position 3) have been placed in the right order.</p> - -<p>Page 169: ... in contact with the ear ... changed to ... in contact with the gear ....</p> - -<p>Page 178: ... shown at D and C (Fig. 99) ... changed to ... shown at D and C (Fig. 100) ....</p> - -<p>Page 231: ... E-EL lines drawn through the spindles will meet at F ... changed to ... e-e1 lines drawn through the -spindles will meet at E ...; ... the lines E and E1 meet at different angles ... changed to ... the lines e and e1 meet -at different angles ....</p> - -<p>Page 260: ... the nearest mettle part. changed to ... the nearest metal part.</p> - -<p>Page 333: ... show a reading of 1,200 or less. changed to ... show a reading of 1.200 or less.</p> - -</div><!--tnbot--> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AUTOMOBILE OWNER'S GUIDE ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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